When do you replace cutter wheel bearings,(rayco 1665)

[MOE]

My Rayco 1665AC has some slop in the cutter wheel bearings,(when I wiggle the wheel side to side). It runs quite, has,I cant feel any roughness when turning by hand. How much is norma with the large pillow block bearings? Should I run them a while or replace?

 

[Bigstumps]

You don't want to run them that way for too long - the cutterwheel shaft will start moving inside the inner race and you will ruin the shaft - then you either need to build it back up by welding and then turn it down in a lathe or replace the shaft.

The play in the bearings can also ruin other things like the drive chain or belt driving the cutterwheel.

If they are link belt tapered roller bearings you can tighten them up by turning the ring which squeezes the races together. Each bearing has one ring in the housing which is adjustable with a spanner wrench, 1st loosen a small set screw which holds this ring in place then spin the ring clockwise. I am talking about the ring in the housing - not the locking collar on the bearing that locks the inner race to the shaft. You don't need to turn it much.

I have done this for years and consistantly get 1000 hours out of cutterwheel bearings.

If you have ball bearings there is nothing you can do. I don't know what the Rayco 1665 uses.

 

[Oly's Stump]

I have been averaging about 500 hours on Rayco bearings. Usually I end up replacing the shaft also because its worn some. I cannot see putting those expensive bearings on the old shaft.

 

[MOE]

I took the wheel and shaft off today. It fought me the whole time. I the cutter wheel pulley was on the expanding collar so tight that I cracked it,(the collar) getting the pulley off. The bearings are stuck on the shaft. I couldn't budge them with my puller,(very large good quality puller). I did get the bearing number and called a local bearing supplier. They have them in stock for $32 each. I will get a set thursday and cut the old ones off the shaft.

 

[Oly's Stump]

I never could get the bearings off the shaft with my pullers either. I use a local auto machine shop with a press.

 

[Bigstumps]

$32! What are they?? This is on a 65 horsepower machine?? Something doesn't make sense. Those bearings should be at least 2".

I've had bearings where I just whack the housing with a giant hammer, shattering the case housing, then I can pull everything off and get the inner races off the shaft.

Good Luck!!

 

[MOE]

$32! What are they?? This is on a 65 horsepower machine?? Something doesn't make sense. Those bearings should be at least 2".

I've had bearings where I just whack the housing with a giant hammer, shattering the case housing, then I can pull everything off and get the inner races off the shaft.

Good Luck!!

They are 2" I'm going to pick them up tomorow, I'll find out if they are quoting me the right price for the right bearing. If it's correct, I'll post their info here for you. I'm going to make a shield for the wheel and torch the old one off the shaft. I gave it a good effort with the puller; I even tried swearing.

 

[MOE]

Here is an update on the bearing prices. They quoted me for a lighter dutyh ball bearing. What is on the machine is a linkbelt nonadjustable roller pillow block bearing. They are meant for hard use and vibration. The correct price is $208 each. I guess my new dolmar 5100 is going to have to wait a while.

 

[Bigstumps]

Here is an update on the bearing prices. They quoted me for a lighter dutyh ball bearing. What is on the machine is a linkbelt nonadjustable roller pillow block bearing. They are meant for hard use and vibration. The correct price is $208 each. I guess my new dolmar 5100 is going to have to wait a while.

That sounds more like it!!! I think they are right in the ballpark of what I've always paid.

 

[Oly's Stump]

Same Here!