Which two stroke oil?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Mixing is messy and complicated. I just spray some WD-40 in the plug hole before each use and run straight pump gas. I bought bel ray, swore I would never buy it again, but once it killed my sense of smell it seems to work fine

Yeah that stuff is good oil but it will tear my sinuses up. I'll be sneezing after about 10 minutes of run time.
 
Can someone splain to me what Caster oil does to a saw? I am fully aware what it is capable of doing to ones digestive track. Ken
The 2 main problems with castor bean base oil are 1, It can be in certain conditions VERY hydroscopic [ absorbing up to 6 times its own wieght of water] 2, it`s corrosive in undiluted form [not mixed with gas or if the gas evaporates] if left standing for a period of say 3 months or longer it will eat it`s way through magnisium at any point that`s not completly covered. years ago I bought a Manx Norton m/cycle that had stood for 9 months without the oil being drained the check avalve leaked letting the oil in the tank drain into the crankcase On stripping the motor I found the crankcase almost eaten throughat the high tide mark requiring replacement of both halfs. certain saw parts ie older mag models seem to suffer a similar fate. Excellent lube properties if care is taken over it`s known pitfalls, have read/seen somewhere that excessive inhalation of smoke/fumes can cause the formation of carcegenic symptoms[ I`d guess that apply`s to an excess of any oil based product
 
I like to keep things simple. I use the formula (CC/Pie X 2 ) + (saw operational temp - ambient temp) : 1

Works pretty good but I have to carry around a lot of gas cans in order to be able to operate the different size saws all day.
 
I have been runnin opti2 for 10yrs or so .no oil related problems.I use there rate ,like it so far,not gonna change unless a problem!
 
It is always amazing to me how people bash Amsoil. Anybody that cares about engine longevity will not bad mouth it if they have given it an honest appraisal. And yes, it does work well at 100:1. I use it at 50:1, but I put lots of miles on saws and other stuff at 100:1. Use what you want, but don't bash a good product when you obviously don't know about it.

Eh, it's a waste of money.
 
I've been running Redline Racing Synthetic in my motorcycles, quads, and saws since 1986 or so. Before that I ran BelRay MC1. Messed around with different mix ratios off and on over the years. Settled on 32/1 with non-eth 92 octane unleaded gas.

In the 1990's I used Amsoil Race Synthetic (before they sold Saber and Intercepter) as I was able to get it for 1/2 the price of Redline. Had no issues with it at 32/1.

Tried some Woodland Pro (Baileys) synthetic at 32/1. Was happy with the performance, and it turns the mix a DEEP blue which I like for easy identification. I've also used Stihl Ultra at 40/1 and 32/1 when a bud was hooking me up with it. Wasn't impressed. The Stihl oil didn't leave the 'oil film' on the internals that Redline, Woodland Pro Synthetic, and Amsoil do. Everything was dry at teardown. Smelled terrible when burned and turned the mix a light, sickly green too.
 
This is what I will be burning in the near future. The 1 gallon packs were $4 each, the 2.5 gallon packs were $6 each and the 5 gallon packs were $8 each.

Stihloil_zps8553d3c1.jpg
 
Just bought some of the above, but believe it cost me a little more than that! :)

Have been using moto-mix in the saws, along with some tru-fuel, but plan on changing to Stihl Ultra mix in my air cooled Clinton outboard, at 40:1.

Still debating on what to use with the newly acquired Gale outboard. Know that it will be a synthetic TCW-3 of some sorts, as it calls for 24:1, so will desire something that will be more environmentally friendly.

Speaking of, it came with a 6 gal tank half or three quarters full of outboard mix (I'd assume at 24:1) that really needs used up, been thinking of trying a tank in the Quake to see if it'll run.
 
Klotz Super Techniplate racing synthetic with castor oil, and ethanol free 93 octane.

Love the smell, and everything runs great with it. Stuff looks outstanding on teardown. Got it last year for 11 per quart, so bought a case. All at 45:1
 
So guido,
Did you buy 7 new saws and get double your 7 years good luck?
 
For my ported saws I use SAE 30 mixed at 16:1

I agree, plenty of people were willing to bash the porting work I do. But how many people have run one of my saws?

Don't be a hater till you try it. And if 100:1 doesn't work at least you saved 75 cents on oil.

If you are Tyrel, you need to be making good on paying me and a few other folks some money.....if not, you need to be banned just for acting like that SOB.
 
If you are Tyrel, you need to be making good on paying me and a few other folks some money.....if not, you need to be banned just for acting like that SOB.


Ah.............."Blue Goo". Makes sense now. He must get his blue RTV in gallon tubs. EVERYBODY BE CARERFUL OF MR BLUE GOO. DON'T have do deals with him or have him 'modify' your saws.
 
Steve tells me that the IP addy of the above poster doesn't match Tyrel. I still think that those posts are in extremely bad taste considering the amount of work I've had to do to rebuild what Tyrel destroyed.
 
Well if he's NOT Tyrel (and he still could be, as there's ways around the IP address issue), then you're right about his posts being in extremely bad taste. If he IS Tyrel, then he can take a flying............at a rolling doughnut.
 
A couple of random thoughts from Blue Goo:


Lighten up a little Mastermind (regarding your PM) Right back at you, but with love.

Ever since mastermind got a hold of a blue goo special his saws seems to have gotten a little faster. Maybe he was able to reverse engineer some things???

I don't know who you are, but you should walk away.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top