White pine crack

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LTREES

ArboristSite Operative
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PA
Today I looked at a job that is questionable. I only had my cell phone for a pic. (sorry) This is a 90' white pine. The trunk branches out to 2 leads at 18'. There is a 6'-7' crack in the crotch. It has a gap of over 2" in the top of the crack. The HO wants to try to save it, the tree is in a mature hedge row at the back yard. (no access ) The base is almost 40", and a little wider at the crotch. I suggested a cable at the top and 2 threaded rods in the bottom. I have not done this in about 15 yrs. I did NOT promise that it would hold together and he has to buy me a new gas drill w/ the 3' bit. Any suggestions? There is good wind blockage inside the hedge row, but I'm concerned the rods won't hold. Should I hook it up and see what happens? It could save the tree for a long time, there is no sign of stress in the tree. HELP!?!?:confused:

LT...

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106137&stc=1&d=1250028286
 
I guess my question would be what can potentially be hit if and when it fails? If nothing, I'd cable and bolt it, if it can harm a structure, I'd bring 'er down.
 
The only structure is his house, 2 story with a car port. The other is the neighbor's yard, swing set and mature larch (ugly things). It is no doubt a residential area. Should I not give him a choice. I told him off the cuff that it would take 3k to dispose of it.

LT...
 
The only structure is his house, 2 story with a car port. The other is the neighbor's yard, swing set and mature larch (ugly things). It is no doubt a residential area. Should I not give him a choice. I told him off the cuff that it would take 3k to dispose of it.

LT...

Yikes! I'd err on the side of caution on this one for sure. If he insists on keeping it, fine, but make sure your removal recommendation is in writing and make sure he understands that if he calls you next year after the crack is wider that you'll need more money for removal. I don't have the knowledge a lot of guys do on this site when it comes to cabling and bracing but no way, no how would I take that risk.
 
If it's a 90' Whitepine and the leads are only 18', why not then just remove everything above the crotch?

Just curious. Also, seems if the leads are only 18', it wouldn't take much to brace them since they are so short.

Thanks,

StihlRockin'
 
no thank you to having that tree anywhere near anything. hopefully you can bomb it out because i dont think i would want to rig off that mofo. you climbing it? rachet strap that puppie up.

edit: i am not really a fan of white pines being within falling distance of a house personally.
 
If it's a 90' Whitepine and the leads are only 18', why not then just remove everything above the crotch?

Just curious. Also, seems if the leads are only 18', it wouldn't take much to brace them since they are so short.

Thanks,

StihlRockin'

18' from the bottom, there is 72' above that crack.

LT...
 
no thank you to having that tree anywhere near anything. hopefully you can bomb it out because i dont think i would want to rig off that mofo. you climbing it? rachet strap that puppie up.

edit: i am not really a fan of white pines being within falling distance of a house personally.

no bombing on this one, 2 fences and next to the car port. Can't speed line it over the car port cause the other pines are in the way, No doubt I'll have a ratchet strap on it. I will have to lower on the beast, I think I'll be ok once I get the tops out (3). HO just complained about spending 5k on something, big landscape proj. He can send a little my way to save his house and neighbor's kids. I'll have to get some pics if I get the job.

LT...
 
the ISA Support BMP's cost $8. There is NO credible way to reject the option of support without first understanding it; that's just sawdust lust talking. :chainsaw:

Your idea of 2 rods and a cable may be close to a solution.
 
if that was here in New Zealand id be pushing him to remove it, no way would i want that hanging over my head. the tree has the death cert written out, just needs a signature
 
If that is the only problem, then I would consider bolting and cabling. However, it would require a more thorough assessment.

:agree2:

http://secure.isa-arbor.com/webstor...Series-BMP-Tree-Support-Systems--P156C59.aspx

BMP's call for 4 ea 3/4" rods, installed parallel, and one above recommended. The owner buys the bit and accepts responsibility, you do the work and disclaim your limitations, the tree stays put for a while.

Competent arborists can tolerate more risk--see attached for one view--after they learn about different services, and nowhere better than the BMP's to start.
 
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There was a huge White Pine in the little Downtown where I live that looked just like the picture you have. I called the city about it because I had been watching the crack grow over the last couple years and it was now the size of the one in your picture. They said it wasn't on thier right a way but would notify the hazard to the Bank that owned the property. The bank did nothing, then no more then six months later the right side of it broke out. I guess the Bank hired someone after that to take out the other side. I'm no expert on cabling but as other mentioned if structures are below it, I wouldn't want to be held liable. Those pines can catch a lot of wind and if it twist, I'm not sure what would happen.
 
How does the rest of the tree look? If that is the only problem, then I would consider bolting and cabling. However, it would require a more thorough assessment.

Tree looks good, alot of green. The crack seems older, not fresh. There is no sign of it healing over yet. I'd estamate early spring for the damage.

LT...
 
We do quite a few of those here in the north east. We usually put a chain and binder on it to hold it together instead of a ratchet strap. I would recommend removal BTW.

If it were mine I think I would take it down. I just wonder the servival rating on the white pines that are that damaged. Do you think I should give the HO a choice or tell him I will only TD the beast?
 

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