Who Grinds their own chains?

[tree md]

Anyone grinding their own chains?

I have been toying with my chain grinder since I got it last Spring. Admittedly, I haven't used it much because I shattered the wheel that came with it and was a little leery of the thing after that. I got a couple of new wheels from a friend a month or so back and finally got around to grinding some chains today.

I am a total newb at grinding chains. I've always just paid someone to do it before but they went up on the price at the shop I go to and the new guy they have grinding them just isn't worth a darn at it. I decided to buy my own grinder after he wrecked two $30 chains on me.

The Northern Tool Grinder is an Oregon knockoff but does a pretty decent job. Not as well made as a Oregon and not as solid but well worth the $100 I paid for it. If I worked on saws for a living and had to grind chains all day I would probably go for the better made Oregon model. It's hard to lock this one down and have it stay on the correct degree of angle when you unlock the chain holding mechanism but it's no big deal to just glance at it and make sure your where you need to be after you lock it down again. Takes just a second to bump it back to where it needs to be. Works great if all you do is 6 or 7 chains a month.

I'm still trying to figure out which wheel to use for which chain. I've got tons of old chains but don't know the specs on them. The 3/8 is easy enough but I was a little confused on which wheel to use for my picco chain. I guess I got the right one though because I tried it out on an old chain that I had in my saw box and it smokes! I just can't seem to get it tightened up enough on my bar though. Not sure what the deal is. I mean it is picco chain off of a 14 inch bar, that's what I run on both my 200 and 192. I extended the bar as far as I could and there is still too much slop. It's a bummer because the chain is eating wood! I just don't care to work aloft with a chain that freewheels. Don't know what could be the problem, maybe it just got hot and stretched?

Anyway, I'm pleased as punch with the other 6 chains I sharpened today. Not really rocket science to figure out how to do it and it's nice to not have the teeth burnt blue like they usually do where I used to take them. I figure the grinder has already paid for itself with the money I have saved already. If I sharpen 6 or 7 chains a month that saves me around $60-$70 bucks. Every little bit helps in these tough times...

 

[rob b]

I use my grinder only when a chain hits something or it gets a little out of wack. I still perfer to do it by hand.

 

[tree md]

I use my grinder only when a chain hits something or it gets a little out of wack. I still perfer to do it by hand.

Absolutely! I touch mine up several times a day with a hand file. Keeps them cutting well.

However, I am not the only one to use all of my saws. No one touches my 200 but me. I have relinquished on the 192 a little bit. I will let them use it on the ground every now and then (usually when I put a new chain on the 260 and don't want them F-ing it up). I have harped and cussed about keeping the chains out of the dirt but some of the guys just can't break the code. Hit the dirt with your chain and it makes for a long day of work! I have one guy who is an excellent saw hand. The others are so so. I do all the filing and sharpening so I know who knows how to use a saw and who don't on my crew. I mean crap happens, everyone hits the dirt every now and then and theres nothing you can do about hitting a nail or something that is hidden in the wood. I understand that. It just seems that I am forever filing and sharpening saws. How nice it would be if I could clone myself and be the only one to run my saws...

 

[talltreeclimber]

i dont really like the way the chains are when they have been through the grinder i end up touching them up with a file. We just file them manually but i guess if you have alot of chains to do and alot of teeth like a long chain, a grinder might be a good idea then a few swipes with the file. my nieghbor bought one and id give him firewood to sharpen my chains ill bring em over if they are real bad (hit a rock or barbed wire ect.)

 

[tree md]

i dont really like the way the chains are when they have been through the grinder i end up touching them up with a file. We just file them manually but i guess if you have alot of chains to do and alot of teeth like a long chain, a grinder might be a good idea then a few swipes with the file. my nieghbor bought one and id give him firewood to sharpen my chains ill bring em over if they are real bad (hit a rock or barbed wire ect.)

Depends on who's grinding the chains. Some can make them like new without burning them up. Someone who doesn't know how and burns the teeth blue then yes, I would rather hand file them. Once the teeth are burnt blue you can pretty much forget about being able to put a good hand sharpening on them again.

I'm all for hand sharpening. I do it on a regular basis. But after awhile I find there is no substitute for grinding the chain. Especially once one has been rocked. Ever try to straighten out a rocked chain with a hand file? It sucks! Give me the grinder any day! Plus, it's so easy to keep everything in spec and uniform with the grinder. I like to spend my time cutting not filing.

 

[talltreeclimber]

Depends on who's grinding the chains. Some can make them like new without burning them up. Someone who doesn't know how and burns the teeth blue then yes, I would rather hand file them. Once the teeth are burnt blue you can pretty much forget about being able to put a good hand sharpening on them again.

I'm all for hand sharpening. I do it on a regular basis. But after awhile I find there is no substitute for grinding the chain. Especially once one has been rocked. Ever try to straighten out a rocked chain with a hand file? It sucks! Give me the grinder any day! Plus, it's so easy to keep everything in spec and uniform with the grinder. I like to spend my time cutting not filing.

i guess that is true the STIHL dealer i have brought them to in the past grind them right down blue and needed to be hit with a file. but ill use a grinder to uniform tooth leanth on both sides. The other guy i was bringing them to did not hit the tooth correctly and seemed to be riding high and i needed to do a ton of filing. I have been contemplating getting one. i have a 36" full comp chain that sucks to file... i hit a rock that was placed in the crotch of a tree 50+ years ago along with some wire, gotta love those old trees near houses.

 

[flushcut]

I hand file all the time when out in the field. I usually go a week or two before putting them through the grinder if I have been in clean wood, but I won't hesitate to grind them if I hit something or the FNG goes trenching with a saw. I use the ABN wheels that baileys carries yes they are spendy as hell but are consistent in the result and are less prone to burn a chain if you have a lot to grind off. They also last forever 6yrs and counting.

 

[pdqdl]

Buy a "CBN" wheel for your grinder. [Cubic Boron Nitride? I'm running on memory here] They are about $200 for just the wheel!!! I have bought 4 (two different thicknesses) since 1987, and that was doing commercial sharpening for a while.

The Silvey grinders use an 8" wheel, they cost more.

1. They cut MUCH cooler than an abrasive wheel: no tempering or hardening of the chains.
2. Their shape is perfectly formed, and does not wear out, so you are always grinding the right profile.
3. They are MUCH faster than a conventional wheel. Particularly if you rock a chain badly.
4. The grindings are steel filings, and can be mostly captured with a magnet.
5. They are essentially a steel wheel, so they never get out of balance and they never shatter dangerously.
6. A careful operator can sharpen a chain BETTER than anyone can with a file. Perfect edges, every chain ground to the same exact size. It does take more time to do an exceptional job, but "damn good" is real easy and fast.

You should expect several years of use out of one wheel. The slotted ones run cooler and last longer.

 

[tree md]

Buy a "CBN" wheel for your grinder. [Cubic Boron Nitride? I'm running on memory here] They are about $200 for just the wheel!!! I have bought 4 (two different thicknesses) since 1987, and that was doing commercial sharpening for a while.

The Silvey grinders use an 8" wheel, they cost more.

1. They cut MUCH cooler than an abrasive wheel: no tempering or hardening of the chains.
2. Their shape is perfectly formed, and does not wear out, so you are always grinding the right profile.
3. They are MUCH faster than a conventional wheel. Particularly if you rock a chain badly.
4. The grindings are steel filings, and can be mostly captured with a magnet.
5. They are essentially a steel wheel, so they never get out of balance and they never shatter dangerously.
6. A careful operator can sharpen a chain BETTER than anyone can with a file. Perfect edges, every chain ground to the same exact size. It does take more time to do an exceptional job, but "damn good" is real easy and fast.

You should expect several years of use out of one wheel. The slotted ones run cooler and last longer.

I might have to look into those wheels if I ever start making money again. For now it's just keeping my head above water. Hopefully business is good this year. Already picking up a little around here.

I'd be all for the steel wheels. I'm telling you, that stone wheel shattering in my face was an unnerving experience. TG I was wearing my wrap around safety glasses! I was starting to get the hang of it and started speeding things up a little. Instead of locking down the chain in the rail I was just snugging it up to the little backstop, hitting it and pulling the chain through. It must have snagged the chain and pulled it up into the wheel on the last tooth because it just exploded in my face. This was like back in Oct. I believe. It took me this long to work up the nerve to give it another try.

Anyway, I can see what your saying about getting a perfect grind. Dam good is pretty easy and I'll take it over the saw shops grind any day but it would take some practice to get every tooth perfect. As long as I get a few grindings out of a chain and don't have to deal with burnt up chains that can no longer be filed I'll save money and be happy!

 

[M.D. Vaden]

Took reading the OP to get your meaning.

When I read the title first time, I thought "man, I've ground a few chains", thinking of occassional nails and concrete.

I take mine in, because the time is so valuable to me to do pruning instead. For my needs.

Only been to one bad shop so far. Chain was not the same color anymore. Looked like the one shop tried to temper the thing. Good thing it was only one.

 

[tree md]

Took reading the OP to get your meaning.

When I read the title first time, I thought "man, I've ground a few chains", thinking of occassional nails and concrete.

I take mine in, because the time is so valuable to me to do pruning instead. For my needs.

Only been to one bad shop so far. Chain was not the same color anymore. Looked like the one shop tried to temper the thing. Good thing it was only one.

Yeah, I would have never have bought a grinder and started doing my own if it hadn't been for that kid torching my large chains and pissing me off. Kind of glad I did buy one now. I don't have to wait on my chains to be sharpened anymore!

My next goal is to get some spools and start making my own chains. That's a little bit down the road though. I'd like to get to the point where I don't have to go to a saw shop at all... Except to buy a new saw.

Nice avatar BTW.

 

[sgreanbeans]

This is how we do it, I have at least 10 chains for each saw, I have 2 chain boxes, one is at the sharpeners at all times, they charge 3 bucks a chain no matter the length, debur it, clean it, depth gauges and sharpen it better than any chain I have ever used! Plus they are sparkling when i get them! They are very quick and will do it on the spot if needed, I tried doing it my self, sucked! Plus the time thing is huge.

 

[rob b]

Old ceramic fence insulators are the worst to hit. Lots of grinding for that.

 

[tree md]

Thought I would resurrect this old thread

Thought I would resurrect this old thread.

It still tickles me to death to be able to maintain my own chains. I rocked two chains on my last large job and was able to get them back to razor sharp with my own grinder. Beats the heck out of having to wait on the saw shop to do it and paying ten dollars a pop.

That $100 Northern Tool grinder has paid for itself tenfold by now. I keep at least two back up chains for every saw now. Makes for much more efficient work and I am never having to bite the bullet and buy a new chain because the shop can't grind a rocked one right away.

If you're thinking about buying your own grinder, I highly recommend it.

 

[mrwoody]

Got one of these puppies and use diamond grinding bits. Works great.......

http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Shaft-Grinder-Chuck-Switch/dp/B000NW4YRK

 

[pdqdl]

Depends on who's grinding the chains. Some can make them like new without burning them up. Someone who doesn't know how and burns the teeth blue then yes, I would rather hand file them. Once the teeth are burnt blue you can pretty much forget about being able to put a good hand sharpening on them again.

I'm all for hand sharpening. I do it on a regular basis. But after awhile I find there is no substitute for grinding the chain. Especially once one has been rocked. Ever try to straighten out a rocked chain with a hand file? It sucks! Give me the grinder any day! Plus, it's so easy to keep everything in spec and uniform with the grinder. I like to spend my time cutting not filing.

I have nothing to add, because this post says it all.



[except that the Oregon sharpener with the automatic hydraulic clamp is about the best possible sharpener for the small amount of investment that it takes.]

 

[jefflovstrom]

I'm all for hand sharpening. I do it on a regular basis. But after awhile I find there is no substitute for grinding the chain. Especially once one has been rocked. Ever try to straighten out a rocked chain with a hand file? It sucks!
Oh really, MD?

Real tree guys hand sharpen, too bad if it is tough sometimes. Don't they sell chain in your neck of the woods? Never have and never will use a grinder unless I hire a woman to sharpen the lazy man's saw! I am still looking for the red shorts with a bull's eye!
Jeff

 

[tree md]

But Jeffy, I got to keep my hands soft for the ladies... :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[jefflovstrom]

But Jeffy, I got to keep my hands soft for the ladies... :hmm3grin2orange:

You are quite the Bastard Playboy!!!!!
Jeff, EFGH

 

[tree md]

OK, OK, I at least need to keep them soft enough for my own pleasure...

I'm no rough rider... :hmm3grin2orange: