Who sharpens there chains with a file still?

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I have a fancy grinder that I don't use.I use the Husqvarna roller guide and I finally feel confident that I have a sharp, even chain.I found a set for Stihl chains years ago, but haven't found any since.The old ones don't have a raker guide but the new ones do.Very slick.
 
I had a nice grinder and sold it. Takes too much time to take the chains off, gather them up, sharpen, put back on or switch them out. Also because I would rather my employees learn to hand sharpen too. I'm not the best but this little tool is the best thing I've seen(recommended from here), you still have to keep the angle right but the depth you are filing is one of the hardest things to get right and this puts it perfect.
 
I had a nice grinder and sold it. Takes too much time to take the chains off, gather them up, sharpen, put back on or switch them out. Also because I would rather my employees learn to hand sharpen too. I'm not the best but this little tool is the best thing I've seen(recommended from here), you still have to keep the angle right but the depth you are filing is one of the hardest things to get right and this puts it perfect.


So that there thingy just sits on top of the chain and guides the file at the exact depth needed? Where do I get one of these contraptions?
 
A tip for you serious hand filers.

If your hands get cramped filing, throw your file handle in the bushes!
Find a blue beech and cut a branch 2-3" in diameter and 6-8" long, drill a hole slightly smaller than your file in one end then tap your file into the hole. A free file handle and bigger than the ones you buy which keeps my hands from cramping. More surface area to grip so your not hanging on for dear life. I prefer blue beech because the bark is smooth and stays on a long time after it dries.My current handle has a swell in the wood in front of where I grip which helps even more.

Try it . It's FREE!
 
Once you learn it, you will never go back! Hand filling is so much better than a ground chain!

+1. I guess though if you have a grinder and know how to use it it's alright. But the last time I took 3 chains in to get sharpened at 8.00 a pop they came back in worst shape than I took them.:dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy: Burned blue and not near as sharp as my hand filing. So nothing but hand filing for me . Anyway it gives me a break when I have to sharpen.:givebeer: :givebeer: :givebeer:
 
I use a little file guide that was bought about 3 years ago. The simpler the better. All my chains are hand filed and work great. On the field you have a sense for where the file should go and in a couple of minutes your ready to go. I'd recommend anyone to learn to do it by feel. I'ts amazing how fast and it easy it becomes with a little practice.
 
I only grind when I have to, and on the long chains that take forever to file. A 20" is all anybody really wants to file on a reg. basis. If I rock one out or get it really dull its nice to grind them. I dont like grinding chains smaller than 3/8 because it takes so much metal off the tooth and shortens chain life.
 
I started to hand file because I couldn't afford a grinder. I now have no need for a grinder. Hand filing isn't that hard to do. I probably don't as good a job as the rest of you, but the chains seem to work nice enough for me!
 
hand filing

I use a Homelite file handle/guide. Baileys got one similar for about $7, number 15220. Been hand filing forever with one, Homelite even made one for 5/32 file for 3/8 low profile. The body of it rides on top of the top plate for depth, everything else (angles etc) is up to you Real trick is file often so you only need a stroke or two per tooth And don't do like I do and use a file way past its useful life. My 2 cents worth
 
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I start out with a 7/32 file and then when i get towards the end of the cutter i switch to 13/64 for my 3/8 pitch chains. I don't use a file guide but I do use one for the rakers. I'm no pro by any means, but I can usually keep the chains throwing pretty good chips. It does take some time to figure out the angles and stuff, but after that it's not too bad. Good luck!!
 
I've always hand filed and always will. once you learn how to do itright it's easy to do and chains last longer than grinding off 1/3 of the tooth like the local dealer does each time he sharpens:cry:
 
i hand round file all my saws and my boss's saws and friends saws, they all prefer to pay 7 bucks to grind but its only a few minutes a saw when they are only 20 inch or less bars. i have one of those dremel doodads but its only good if you ain't worth a lick with a file.
my boss winds up filing his saw when im cutting bc he thinks he does a better job, because he has been doing it longer than i have been alive. but i do a fine job and keep the chips flying. but i don't stop him from filing for me bc it gives me a break, which i enjoy bc i cut 6 cord a day for him.
 
whats a file ??

I bought a grinder from ebay a max works just fine for me could never get a file to do the job


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I file my chains.

I see no reason to pay someone 1/3 to 1/2 the price of the chain for a job that only takes a few minutes. Unless it is new, I am competent enough that it cuts better after I finish than when I started.
 
Best of both worlds!

I grind at the shop, and file in the woods.

My 511 does a excellent job, but it takes time to get it really, really sharp.

In the woods I can get it cutting again, sometimes it actually cuts pretty well.

One must bear in mind that the chain was sharpened with a 1.2 megga-buck grinder at the factory. Most *new* chain cuts pretty decent with the factory edge (Oregon, Stihl, etc).

-Pat
 
I hand file in the field and use a grinder in the shop. 5 hand files to 1 grinder.
 
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