Who sharpens there chains with a file still?

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Being a home owner, I don't run the saw much. I've had pretty good results with hand filing using no guide. I give each cutter a couple passes every time I refill the fuel and oil tanks. I just do my best to keep the same edge that was there when new. I find that my chain stays pretty sharp, cuts straight and throws nice big chunks. After about 7 years of doing this, I had one chain sharpened by a shop. With my hand touch ups it still cuts nicely. I just set the saw on the tailgate or workbench if I'm home, and do one side at a time. I've watched a couple pros do about what I do. If I was cutting all day every day, this might not be the best way to go.
 
Funny you should ask..

Just finished Game of Logging I & II this past weekend. They spent TONS of time explaining hand sharpening and had us all sharpen our chains.

Ken, the instructor, said that it doesn't hurt to take a round file and touch up even a new-out-of-the-box chain.

I'm a true newbie so with my new (used) saw and worn Vanguard chain, I had to sit on a stump and file for about an hour to get all the cutters straightened out - and then I had to figure out how to file down the huge rakers on that oddball chain.

Anybody have a cutter/raker guide for a vanguard chain? How can I get one? I think I may just go get a new one and keep this in reserve.
 
Just finished Game of Logging I & II this past weekend. They spent TONS of time explaining hand sharpening and had us all sharpen our chains.

Ken, the instructor, said that it doesn't hurt to take a round file and touch up even a new-out-of-the-box chain.

I'm a true newbie so with my new (used) saw and worn Vanguard chain, I had to sit on a stump and file for about an hour to get all the cutters straightened out - and then I had to figure out how to file down the huge rakers on that oddball chain.

Anybody have a cutter/raker guide for a vanguard chain? How can I get one? I think I may just go get a new one and keep this in reserve.

That Vanguard chain will last forever....after you hang it on a nail and replace it with a non-safety chain.
 
For those of you who hand file only, and 'accumulate' dull chains, how do you sharpen them while they're off the saw? I would think just clamping a spare bar in a vise and sharpening would work, but the chain tends to move on me and I like both hands on the file. Maybe a spring clamp?

Put the chain in the vise....its very stable, a little tedious since you have to move it more often, but when doing a rocked chain, its much easier, and you can sharpen both sets of cutters while its in there, along with the raker.


logbutcher, that sounds like an efficient setup, will have to check it out.
 
I hand file when needed and give each tooth two swipes when refueling regardless. I use the grinder if the cutters are damaged. I also run all my chains through the grinder at the end of the cutting season just to even them up.
:popcorn:
Dok
 
I've been using a fill since day 1.. I had the dealer show the proper way.I bought a MS 180 for my 1st saw we won't get into that. Anyway the dealer sold me one of the guides and showed me how to use it. I've tried different ways since when my confidence goes up,but still ended up going back to the guide.

I bought a new saw with a larger chain how do I tell waht size fill I need? it's a Oregon chain, I see the #25 on it. I think it's a 3/8" chain. It's a MS310 with a Sthil 16" bar..
 
I bought a new saw with a larger chain how do I tell waht size fill I need? it's a Oregon chain, I see the #25 on it. I think it's a 3/8" chain. It's a MS310 with a Sthil 16" bar..

The box the chain came in should have the size file to use - but I seem to recall that 3/8" requires 7/32. Baileys said 7/32 for 3/8" pitch.
 
The box the chain came in should have the size file to use - but I seem to recall that 3/8" requires 7/32. Baileys said 7/32 for 3/8" pitch.

Yup! I use 7/32" file for 3/8 chain and 3/16" file for .325. I'm sure there are execptions (aren't there always?) but these are close enough. The odd-ball pico chain on my MS170 I think takes a 5/32".
Brad
 
I recently bought a Northern round grinder and a Silvey square grinder. I'm still using the round file because I haven't had a chance to set up the grinders yet, but I'm really looking forward to converting over the majority of my chains to square... at that point I probably won't be using my files too much. :)
 
Hah!!! :clap:

Gotta give you props for that. I've been thinking I'd either get a new chain immediately or run this one a few more times until its dull and recycle it.

Once they get dull those Vanguards make more dust than any other chain that I've seen. I don't know who came up with that :censored: idea for rakers, but someone should castrate 'em with a dull Vanguard chain!
 
Once they get dull those Vanguards make more dust than any other chain that I've seen. I don't know who came up with that :censored: idea for rakers, but someone should castrate 'em with a dull Vanguard chain!

At least it would be done safely.

Who ever heard of semi-skip safety chain for an 18" bar ? :crazy: I keep old loops of it around for cutting stumps or if I think I will be cutting in wire. I get all the goodie out of them this way. No real point in ruining a good chain. For no more than they get used there isnt much point in keeping them in perfect shape.
 
filen is easy

i hand file all chains. when i grind a chain it is only to correct :censored: chains and to bring a chain back into spec. after i grind the chain i use two or three files and hand sharpen the chain. i have several local firewood hackerz the bring me their sawz and extra chains. i sharpen and clean and inspect the saw for $10 bucks. most of the se hacks love my sharpening job because the saw cuts better also they work quicker. one hacker had me sharpen one chain and came back after 3 cords of pecker poles and ask me to sharpen the chain was almost sharp in two minutes with a file iretouched the chain and he has never been back. if you let a chain get reallyyyyyyy dull then it is polecat to get back in to shape. if the chain is start to give some resistance then stop and sharpen or change the chain.
:givebeer:
 
I use a granberg file and joint that was my dads, he sharpened for 30 years as a hobby/income. Mostly I think that the key to it is get good angles, and learn the feel. I use save edge files and I think that they are really good files.
I use a caliper to make sure that the sides a close to even and keep the rakers tuned up, I check them with a straight edge and feeler gauges. I would go broke sharpening like this, but when I go cutting, my saws always are throwing the best chips and I am not working nearly as hard as the other guys! Besides, I can only think of one thing that feels better that a very sharp chain plowing through wood....
 

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