Whoopie sling use

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stihlgotwood

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I'm just getting into using loop runners and slings and wow what a difference it makes on a job. I should add that it is all from learning from this site.
I've got myself a loopie sling and a port-a-wrap recently and was wondering if you guys use the loopie or whoopie slings with a block when lowering large wood onto itself. It seems that everything i read or see when blocking large wood on to itself, everyone is using an eye sling and block(tied with cow hitch or something) So maybee someone can help me to understand.

Thanks for the help
 
My typical scenario: Portawrap on a eye sling w/ timber hitch at trunk. Whoopee and block go aloft. But, I should try the eye sling aloft just for the sake of experimentation. Bull rope goes through block to a half hitch then a bowline on a bight. I too would benefit by researching and experimenting in this area.

Many others here know loads more than I, but did you try a search first?
Safe cutting.
 
I use both loopie and whoopie slings. For removals, I often place a loopie and block at a very high point above my landing zone, and add another block/loopie or two onto stronger wood below it on the bull rope. I don't quite know how to explain it, but if you run your bull rope up one side of the tree from your grcs or portawrap, and cross over to the other in an arc, using two or three block & loopies, the amount of pull on a single limb is greatly reduced and back-up blocks are in place just in case we blow the top out, like when a heavy piece doesn't run due to a rope wrap. It has saved me major problems.
 
Thanks for the replies. Like i said earlier-it seemed like everyone was using the eye slings and to me seemed like it would take alot of time to retie that timber hitch each time a chunk of wood was knocked down. Well i will give it a go next time i need it.

thanks
 
Eye sling

Not everyone uses a eye sling. A lot of guys use whoopies as well. BUT before you blow the top out, it is impossible to continually slide the sling down as you rig wood. You can girth hitch a larger whoopie (if you have enough sling) around the tree for the top and then slide it down as you take off chunks, but the situation really depicts everything. Sometimes sliding it down is no easy task, depending on tree species, size of branch collar etc..Personally I use a medium size whoopie, and hope that I dont have to rig anything gigantic, or else I have to tie the eye sling with a cow hitch on. Then comes the big saw (I HATE IT in the tree). Baiscally I avoid at all costs having to tie an eye sling and a block onto the butt. I dont do that many removals, so usualy it can be avoided.
 
We run a porta wrap and eye sling on the trunk. For the small stuff/tops, we'll just run a 1/2" tag line with a daisy chain and pulley, once it comes to chunking down the spar in big pieces, we use another eye sling and block with bull rope for that. Using a timber hitch up in the tree as well as on the ground.
 
I'm always poor ,but always a 1st. Class rigger & old time crane operator. Old School tree guy & still climbing, just slower & safer. Port-A-Wrap, 4" wide Nylon strap ( 13,800 lb. rating ) & Certified 1" shackle . Cinch around the tree, shackle ( pin on eye ) hook up the porty. Good, solid, non- breakable set-up. Works well for blocking down ( without the porty )or creating a false crotch.Don't think much about pulleys, but mine is personal choice. I keep about 10-15 newer nylon straps ( single & double) both 2" & 4" wide of different lengths (3ft.- 13ft.).Also have a bag with 50 1" Nylon straps,from 3ft-6ft.long( double strength & certified). I use these for speed lining, also keep 50 stainless quick-snaps for hook-ups( all weight certified ). They will cover most jobs & all situations. Also some certified 3/4" & 1"shackles on hand. Some open-face snatch blocks 6 ton & a couple 3/8" 20ft.& 35ft. log chains. All the above, purchased , made & certified by Port City Rigging & Supply. Just some views from the old school ! Good luck.
 

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