Why not multiple bars?

[KarlP]

I see lots of threads asking which length bar they should get with their new saw. I haven't seen too many people suggest multiple bars as a solution for those of us who don't need (can't justify) a dozen saws.

Why not a well balanced bar that won't bog down plus a longer bar for felling big trees with a single back cut, cutting monster logs, or making flat stump cuts.

I personally find bars cheap compared to the price of the saw and PPE. I've got a 16" laminated and 20" solid bar for my 353 and a 24" and 32" for my 385xp. IMHO, both saws are extremely well balanced and well powered with the short bars. Both saws are nose heavy and need light pressure in hardwood with the longer bars. I _could_ run an 18" on the 353 and a 28" on the 385 all the time but then the saw wouldn't be as well balanced for 85% of the cutting and would be a bit short for the other 15%.

Not that I've done it (yet), but the inboard clutch on the larger Husky saws should make switching to another bar if the first gets pinched in a cut fairly trivial.

So why not two bars for each saw?

 

[Billy_Bob]

That is something I take into consideration. I may mostly cut a certain size, but rarely need to cut something larger.

So I might buy a saw which has the option of using a longer bar, but might be a little under-powered for that longer bar.

Stihl has a good guide for max bar length and different models here...
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/comparison.html

 

[pyromaniac guy]

why do i get the feeling from that chart that stihl doesn't think anyone needs a bar longer than 25"? not picking here, but it recommends a 21" bar on an 880 magnum with 121.6 cc....

anyway, i have a 16" for my ms260pro, and am hoping santa brings me a 20"

 

[Lawn Masters]

I do run different bar lengths on one saw. my 670 has a 16" on it most of the time, but if I need to, I can stick a 20" on it and go. my 10-10, has a 16" and a bow bar for varying degrees of cutting/limbing.

 

[skwerl]

Bar preferences will vary by region. What I've found here in the Southeast to be the most productive (and most common) is this-
Climbing saw- 14" (except for the 200T, everyone but me runs 16")
MS260, 346XP- 18" .325" pitch
MS360, MS361, 357XP- 20" (very few pros run this size saw)
MS440, 372XP- 24" and sometimes 28"
MS460, Dolmar 7900- 28"
MS660- 36"
MS880, 3120XP- 48" (only gets pulled out for big stump cuts)

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Yeah, I don't really see it as one bar per saw. I've got a bunch of bars, different chains and so on. I think many of us don't talk about different bars because we just take it for granted that you'll be switching out bars and chain depending on what and where you're cutting.

Jeff

 

[Bob Wright]

I always have 3 different bars to fit my saws...Bob

 

[Lakeside53]

Same as Bob...


I run the shortest bar for a saw "most" of the time, and just put the long bars on when needed.

 

[keith c raymond]

I find 20''bars work for me as most of my cutting lately is horizontal log length laid out on poles,I dont bend as much.My 346xp is set up with a 18'' and I am liking the shorter bars more and more,I agree with Lakeside about this ,for sure.

 

[TRUSSMAN]

I also have different length bars for my bigger saw, use the smaller one most of the time, but when I need the longer bar I have it.
Jeff

 

[smokechase II]

One thing to not forget.
Different bar length can get one into trouble with kickback.
I've certainly noticed it myself cutting and locally everybody I know will give you a line similar to, "if you move up 4" in bar length, watch that tip."
This is most likely to be a concern when limbing, thinning or cutting brush.
If you're only doing a couple tanks a day and you take your time. Perhaps not a big deal.