Why spurless utility Sucks

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What does being spikeless have to do with anything? I'm confused.

"If Jim had climbed higher and crotched his rope at a better angle relative to his work position, when the limb snapped Jim would have fallen down into the saddle rather than back into the electric line"

If Jimbo had set a proper high point to work from, his weight wouldnt have been 100% on the limb and it most likely wouldnt have broken.

How would spikes benefit this situation?
 
Treeco, you can go sit in the truck. Mr. R., if the man had spurs he wouldn't have had to to stand on any branch at all, and with his flipline would have been anchored to the tree, not dependent on a rope and its placement for safety.
 
Isn`t Bartlet owned by Asplundh? If so Asplundh has a policy that states a climber must be tied in above and away from all conductor`s.
 
clearance said:
Treeco, you can go sit in the truck. Mr. R., if the man had spurs he wouldn't have had to to stand on any branch at all, and with his flipline would have been anchored to the tree, not dependent on a rope and its placement for safety.

I thought that that was what climbing arborists did? Depend on ropes I mean. I must have my job description confused.

Any hack can spike a prune and take the limb at the trunk, that level of skill hardly lets you call yourself a climber, let alone an arborist.
 
You mutts would be electrocuted doing utility, its about safety and keeping the power on, the trees come third, where they belong. Guy was almost killed climbing the "proper way", great, bet he wishes he had been a "hack".
 
I think that accident could have happened spurless or with hooks on.
The real danger spurless utility climbing would be setting the climbing line around wires
 
That article brings up a question we used to argue about when I did row. When you are climbing, do you climb all the way to the top of the tree even if it is 50 feet above the lines or do you just climb as high as you need to to get the job done. The tree top climbers would always argue that the higher you are the more maneuverability you have while in the tree (which is true.) But the other guys would always argue that all that extra climbing is just a waste of energy and time-climbing an extra 30-40 feet every tree all day adds up fast. The point is now moot for me since I haven't trimmed in over 7 years, but I am interested in the opinions of some other line clearance trimmers.
 
You should tie in a good amount above your work, but you don't need to go all the way to the top. This climbers problem was he didn't go quite high enough, he tried to climb the absolute minimum, to reach his work. It had nothing to do with spike or spikeless.
 
Mike Maas said:
I feel dumber for having read this thread.
When you climb with spurs you only have to climb as high as you need to do your work, then you can tie your rope to a good point and come down. There is no need to ever have your rope higher than you are to hold you while you are working, you climb up, cut off branches to get clearance, tie in and come down, simple, safe. What cannot you spurless do gooders understand, even you Mike, even because you are dumber now ?
 
clearance said:
When you climb with spurs you only have to climb as high as you need to do your work, then you can tie your rope to a good point and come down. There is no need to ever have your rope higher than you are to hold you while you are working, you climb up, cut off branches to get clearance, tie in and come down, simple, safe. What cannot you spurless do gooders understand, even you Mike, even because you are dumber now ?
Before I read this post, I might have been able to answer that question.

I climb with spikes, about 30 or 40% of the time, I'll still get up a bit above my work, even if it's just tossing the end of my line up a bit.

Clearance, you say, "When you climb with spurs you only have to climb as high as you need to do your work."
It didn't prove to be true in this case, did it?:buttkick:
 
clearance said:
When you climb with spurs you only have to climb as high as you need to do your work, then you can tie your rope to a good point and come down. There is no need to ever have your rope higher than you are to hold you while you are working, you climb up, cut off branches to get clearance, tie in and come down, simple, safe. What cannot you spurless do gooders understand, even you Mike, even because you are dumber now ?

So what do you do when you need to reduce the limb by 20% ?? Cut it off at the trunk then do your reduction on the ground?

Are you even a climber or do you just have a ladder?
 
missing the point

what we are forgetting is that Jim is screwed for life. You ALWAYS climb to a point well above your work thats tree climbing 101, unless you work for a utility and production is #1 priority. Tree's are not priority #3, if all the trees are hacked up and gone, where you gonna work? I like spikes too, but they would not have helped Jim, Start tying in above your work so you can go home every nite. :deadhorse:
 
but you still have to work the bottom before you drop the top, or do you just go up and crash the top thru the tree and plow it into your customers lawn? I know sometimes you/we take shortcuts, but when your going to be in a tree for a given period of time, tie in high and you will allways be on safteys side.

Why chance getting hurt??
 
jonseredbred said:
but you still have to work the bottom before you drop the top, or do you just go up and crash the top thru the tree and plow it into your customers lawn? I know sometimes you/we take shortcuts, but when your going to be in a tree for a given period of time, tie in high and you will allways be on safteys side.

Why chance getting hurt??
You know, I was making a joke, but if you want to get serious, fine.
I spend probably a couple hours every day working above where i'm tied in-it's called removals. Sure, when you start, you can tie in high and drop the low stuff, but sooner or later you are going to reach the point where you're cutting above your lanyard, rope, etc. If you're careful and always tie in twice, you can work like this without a problem-i've done it this way for years and haven't fallen out of a tree yet.
As to crashing the top, there are such things as ropes, false crotches, etc. that will allow you to drop the top without crashing it through the tree or plowing up the lawn-you just have to know how to use them. Also, not every tree has branches growing all the way up from bottom to top-sometimes you can just run up, drop the top, and start chunking down without having to cut any low branches (and all this cutting is done above your tie-in.)
If you just trim trees, your point is a good one and I follow it myself. But if you've never done a removal, than please don't try to tell me to ALWAYS tie in above my work-you obviously don't know what you're talking about or you are a newbie. And if that is the case, why are you posting a know-it-all statement like that on the commercial thread?
 
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