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Camp wood score.

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I need some input on a truck I'm going to look at next week. It's a new body style 2007/08 Chev 2500 ext cab 4x4 with 127K km's on it and the guy is only asking $14,000 for it. It the plow brackets on it and the indash controls. I'm not really sure what to look for on a "well used plow truck". The ad says the truck is not mint, I coul dcare less about body damage or cosmetic things I just want a good workign truck, but the fact that it had a plow on it bugs me. If I am serious about it I'll be taking it to a shop to have them check it out, but I figured you guys might have some input.

Thanks

Bill
 
I've got 2 of those Chevy's that have been plowed with but I'm sure not anywhere near as much as up there. Mine have been holding up really good. No front end problems suprisingly. Brakes have been done a couple times at least and transmission on mine went out this spring. After warming it up real good put it in reverse up a hill and see if it slips. The clutch drum cracked on mine and burned up the clutches, I remember when it happened and thought I blew a hub out but it kept going. Drove it for another few months afterwards a until it got too bad. I also tow alot though. Besides that look for rust inside the door panels, frame etc. Shocks might be a little worked over too.
 
I need some input on a truck I'm going to look at next week. It's a new body style 2007/08 Chev 2500 ext cab 4x4 with 127K km's on it and the guy is only asking $14,000 for it. It the plow brackets on it and the indash controls. I'm not really sure what to look for on a "well used plow truck". The ad says the truck is not mint, I coul dcare less about body damage or cosmetic things I just want a good workign truck, but the fact that it had a plow on it bugs me. If I am serious about it I'll be taking it to a shop to have them check it out, but I figured you guys might have some input.

Thanks

Bill

A well known mechanic near me told me that trucks that have plows on them long term and are driven on the highways with calcium chloride used on them are generally a mess with rust underneath. He claimed that the plow hanging in front of the vehicle created a vortex that drove the calcium mist right up under the vehicle and into the engine compartment.....rusting everything it landed on. My preference is to buy a truck without a plow and add one if you need it.
 
I agree your better off looking elsewhere for a truck that never had a plow....between the corrosion and additional wear, the truck will not last as long as one that didn't plow.
 
I went and looked at the truck this AM.. I can see why it's cheap. It was a definite work truck, the bed was filled with paint, plaster, concrete stains. The inside is dirty holes in the dash for the wiring and controls for the plow, and the front Diff is leaking. My last truck came from a large heavy metal fabrication company and it looked like crap but it worked and never let me down. I might go see this guy next week and then take the truck to my mechanic to check it out. If the truck is in good working order then I could care less of the appearance of it.

I'm not really worried about the rust factor I'm more worried about the engine, tranny, and diffs. everything ruts here it's a part of life, that's why we have yearly vehicle inspections!:bang:
 
The studebaker truck is it a diesel.... or what does the d stand for???

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While Studebaker did start offering diesels mid way through the 1962 model year in trucks as small as 1 ton, this one has a 289 gas engine. I am not aware of any diesels in a Studebaker 4 wheel drive, the D was the designation for the 4 wheel drive series.

I also had this 1970 Dodge W-200 Power Wagon with a 413 and 4 barrel.

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I am currently using this 1989 Dodge W-250 with a 360 and automatic. I do not have a picture with a load on it, but perhaps next week.

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My 1970 W300. I have a '68 to do the heavy lifting.

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30 years ago I had a 1972 W-300 with a 9's pickup bed and a 12,000 Tulsa winch on the front. After i bought the truck it failed a state safety inspection because it had no shocks on the rear. Hell, it didn't even have any shock mounts. Got a half gallon of bourbon and made some up in an afternoon.

The truck was hard on tires, it ate up a pair of Coop Grip Spurs on the front in less than 6,000 miles.
 
This one doesn't have them, either. I'm working on a back bumper, as it is now illegal.

My 1970 W-300 was bought new by a gas pipeline company and used to haul a trailer with a tractor and bushhog to clear ROWs. The bumpers on it were fashioned out of channel iron (either 8" or 10", I don't remember).

I also had this 1959 IH B-120 that I sold to the guy who had the 1970 Dodge on consignment at his used car lot.

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You could probably do a bumper like this one.

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