Wood splitter questions

[cabinman]

K,j

if weight isn't an issue, I'd go the 4x4. roughly 2x the strength in bending from the force on the wedge being above the beam, but also much stronger in torsion, the twisting action tending to wind the tube along its long axis. Actually that 4x4 is probably stiffer in torsion than the open 6 or 8 inch WF beam most people use because the Wf beams are not a closed tube shape. and they work fine

and, you will probably finish splitter number one with a list of what do different on number two... just like street rods.


hey CM I must be getting better, that mean I get two beers? : )

kcj

I wish we wood have met on the street instead of buckin threads, I like the way you think, in your redneck clothes, LOLOL Sorry, seriousley The 4x4 beam is sum pretty tough stuff,..people some times forget that there are (2) verticles in the square beam, and that log splitters twist the H--l out of the beam when they encounter a knot,.,The Square beam shines there 2, T,C E,J,

 

[Kydan]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=55258

For the money, this one seems hard to beat. Many people like them. Maybe its more splitter then you are lookin for.

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That's probably the best deal I have seen in a long time .I don't think anyone could beat that for a small splitter. Especially if your trying to build a small one. hmmm. I don't no how I missed that at Harbofright.

 

[joecool85]

True true Kevinj, but what about mounting the ram to the tube? On the I beam it is simple to build a very solid guide for the ram that will also resist the potential twisting force some logs produce. I just don't see how you can install a durable ram guide on a square/rectanguler tube splitter, Especially if you want to install a hydraulic log lift. Not trying to be a smart@$$, I 'm just not familiar with them.

Not planning on doing a log lift, I don't cut enough big wood and I'm a young fella. I can always build a bigger splitter with all the gizmos and gadgets if I need to later, not too big of a deal.

As far as mounting the ram guide, I plan on having two 1" pipes (one on each side of the tube) mounted about an inch or two taller than the top of the square tube, about 3" away from it (to the side) and then have the pusher run on sliders down the pipes. Also these pipes would help keep the logs from rolling off the splitter.

 

[kevin j]

58: Mounting stuff to a square tube is harder. The larger ones I have seen had a 1/2 x 6 flat welded to top to stiffen and provide the flanges to 'grip' onto. Small ones have a 'tube in tube', or boxed plate thing around the entire box beam, as the slider. That is cheap and easy, pretty sturdy, but I have only seen it on the light cheap machines where there is not a lot of force. Does wipe out the entire beam as you noted. Can't add brackets for shelves or anything to sides as the slider moves along there. Log lift doesn't matter as these are only small machines, capable of smaller logs.
I've also only seen the small ones with fixed wedge, moving plate, so there isn't much twist put into the moving part. To do a moving wedge would be harder and need to grip onto the beam pretty firmly.

joecool:; If you are going with fixed wedge, moving plate, the guide tubes might be strong enough, but I would be nervous. If moving wedge, I don't think the pipes woud resist the twisting of bad wood. Seems like the wood should only cause bending i the beam, but if you get a hard knot the things tends to wind up like crazy from forces uneven on one side of the wedge or the other.

fun project, hope you enjoy the process and get it done.
off to work
kcj

 

[joecool85]

58: Mounting stuff to a square tube is harder. The larger ones I have seen had a 1/2 x 6 flat welded to top to stiffen and provide the flanges to 'grip' onto. Small ones have a 'tube in tube', or boxed plate thing around the entire box beam, as the slider. That is cheap and easy, pretty sturdy, but I have only seen it on the light cheap machines where there is not a lot of force. Does wipe out the entire beam as you noted. Can't add brackets for shelves or anything to sides as the slider moves along there. Log lift doesn't matter as these are only small machines, capable of smaller logs.
I've also only seen the small ones with fixed wedge, moving plate, so there isn't much twist put into the moving part. To do a moving wedge would be harder and need to grip onto the beam pretty firmly.

joecool:; If you are going with fixed wedge, moving plate, the guide tubes might be strong enough, but I would be nervous. If moving wedge, I don't think the pipes woud resist the twisting of bad wood. Seems like the wood should only cause bending i the beam, but if you get a hard knot the things tends to wind up like crazy from forces uneven on one side of the wedge or the other.

fun project, hope you enjoy the process and get it done.
off to work
kcj

Fixed wedge, moving a pusher. I don't see the 1" pipes being uses as guides being a problem. The cylinder will be held onto the square tube with U-bolts and of course fixed at the end like normal with a bolt going through a plate of steel. Should be solid as heck.

 

[mga]

Fixed wedge, moving a pusher. I don't see the 1" pipes being uses as guides being a problem. The cylinder will be held onto the square tube with U-bolts and of course fixed at the end like normal with a bolt going through a plate of steel. Should be solid as heck.

i think he's right.

you better think this thru because there are alot of forces working when splitting wood. a poorly designed slide can and will bend the ram bar. even small pieces of wood can have knarly knots in them that will definately test the durability of your splitter.

just my humble opinion.

 

[joecool85]

i think he's right.

you better think this thru because there are alot of forces working when splitting wood. a poorly designed slide can and will bend the ram bar. even small pieces of wood can have knarly knots in them that will definately test the durability of your splitter.

just my humble opinion.

I really like my idea of using pipe to guide the pusher as well as keep the log on the splitter. Keep in mind this "pipe" I'm talking about using is structural carbon steel pipe. I was planning on something like 3/4" schedule 80 (1.05 OD X .154 wall), but I could step it up a notch and do 1" schedule 80 (1.315 OD X .179 wall). I can't imagine that two of those pipes wouldn't be strong enough to hold it from going left/right or up.

 

[cabinman]

Keeping posted

I really like my idea of using pipe to guide the pusher as well as keep the log on the splitter. Keep in mind this "pipe" I'm talking about using is structural carbon steel pipe. I was planning on something like 3/4" schedule 80 (1.05 OD X .154 wall), but I could step it up a notch and do 1" schedule 80 (1.315 OD X .179 wall). I can't imagine that two of those pipes wouldn't be strong enough to hold it from going left/right or up.

I can Imagine lotsa things happening using two pieces of pipe 2 guide your pusher shoe, especially splitting the stuff I split,.Apperently you are splitting the real easy stuff,... Intresting concept,. Keep us posted with results, and Pics,. Thats what keeps this site intresting,. T,C, E,J,

 

[hanko]

Joecool85,
I,ve got a 20year old splitter that mw grandpa and I built. It originally had a VERY OLD 5hp briggs and a single stage pump. once that wore out and my grandpa passed on I replaced it with a 5hp Honda and 11gpm 2 stage pump. (he'd be rolling over in his grave! he was a pacific front WWII vet.) The beam on this is 8"x7.5"x 3/8 with 4"cylinder. with this size hp gpm setup I have split some gnarly maple that has twisted that beam to the point that I could see the sweat dripping off of it. the cycle time is not the fastest but not overly slow. besides that I do get a lot of large rounds where I need the extra power. Although I have had some smaller rounds that will test the tensile strength of the beam as well. With This same set up I am considering going to a 16 gpm pump and larger hp simply for quicker splitting times. Although your wood may be smaller you may still get into some tough wood that might be a little tough to get through. I can post some pics if you'd like but i'm still trying to figure out how to resize them to post on AS. As far as the tecumseh is concerned I believe you said that it was a new engine. I have had a few tecumsehs in my lifetime and I never had one that startes easily,Particularly in the dead of winter. In fact We built another logsplitter after the first one and grandpa bought a brand new Tecumseh 8 hp from (back then ) northern hydraulics. It started ok for the first few months and then had nothing but trouble with it afterward.(There is nothing more frustrating then wanting to split wood and wearing yourself out trying to get the splitter started!!) we pulled that tecumseh and replaced it with a used 8hp kohler and it ran fine. I am not knocking Tecumsehs, but this has been my experience. every tecumseh I've had i have tried to repair without much success. (I have an associates degree in automotive technology from Ferris State, so i'm not a COMPLETE idiot when it comes to internal combustion engines!) That being said, You may think that this size splitter will suit your needs now but once you build it, and get the bug, you may very well be looking and making it faster and more powerful ARGH, ARGH, ARGHHH! Sorry for the long winded post, Just my .02 cents. ( Don't even get me started on the saws to get those rounds to the splitter!)
Mike

58 Hydraglide? should be 58 duoglide. get your harleys straight

 

[kevin j]

jc just noticed avatar, what is the old sled?

hydoglides, old sleds, what were we orignally talking about.....

kcj

 

[cmetalbend]

Looks like it'll be 4x4 then probably. Has anyone ever used a cut up frame from a pickup truck or something? I'm a car nut and know a ton of mechanics with junk cars/trucks laying around. I bet I could get a piece for cheap/free.

I would pass on the truck frame, for one major reason. Vechicle frame's
twist, easily. I don't think they are rigid enough. And most are leightweight material. Now if you had one out of an old semi or somthing similiar you might give that a go. Just my opnion , considering I use a 5 inch ram on a H-beam that's about 8x5. I've bent and twisted the flighting more than once. I realize you not building that much pressure, but from my experence I would still pass.

 

[cabinman]

Shoe guide

I would pass on the truck frame, for one major reason. Vechicle frame's
twist, easily. I don't think they are rigid enough. And most are leightweight material. Now if you had one out of an old semi or somthing similiar you might give that a go. Just my opnion , considering I use a 5 inch ram on a H-beam that's about 8x5. I've bent and twisted the flighting more than once. I realize you not building that much pressure, but from my experence I would still pass.

Hey CMB, wha da ya think about usin two pieces of 1 in pipe to guide the shoe on a splitter, Intresting concept, dont ya think,? E,J,

 

[58hydraglide]

58 Hydraglide? should be 58 duoglide. get your harleys straight

Guess You've never installed a '58 Pan boiler in a '49 chassis. What would YOU call it? BTW that scooter ended up with a '74 FL front end. If you would like a little more info I can give you the interchangability options on FL,FX Harleys from '36-'84. I've forgotten more about Pans and shovels than most boys ever knew. Haven't messed much with knuckles, but thats just a different top end.any other questions???

 

[58hydraglide]

Hey CMB, wha da ya think about usin two pieces of 1 in pipe to guide the shoe on a splitter, Intresting concept, dont ya think,? E,J,

IMO, 1" pipe wouldn't be strong enough (depending on the wood) unless it was welded every few inches along the stroke to the tube/beam, which means your guides couldn't fully wrap around the tube.(maybe worse). Sorry about the last post, some things just rub you the wrong way.
Mike

 

[58hydraglide]

IMO, 1" pipe wouldn't be strong enough (depending on the wood) unless it was welded every few inches along the stroke to the tube/beam, which means your guides couldn't fully wrap around the tube.(maybe worse). Sorry about the last post, some things just rub you the wrong way.
Mike[/QUOTE Dont forget, WE are talkin about the good stuff,...HIGH carbon,....Not your every day plastic straw,..T,C, E,J,

Would that be strong enough? I'm asking, I'm not familiar with it. What about cost? Im still waitin to hear about the angle iron.

 

[cabinman]

I sent you a pm

Would that be strong enough? I'm asking, I'm not familiar with it. What about cost? Im still waitin to hear about the angle iron.

check your pm

 

[joecool85]

jc just noticed avatar, what is the old sled?

hydoglides, old sleds, what were we orignally talking about.....

kcj

That's my brother's 1974 Polaris Colt 244. It now looks like an "S" model because the windshield got so beat up we cut it so it's 6" tall or so. He got it from my uncle 5 years ago, it had been sitting for 7-8 years and needed some TLC (namely new points, condensor, gas tank and we cleaned up the magneto and the carburetor - choke was stuck/gunk in the bowl as well). Now it gets ridden, and hard. That poor thing doesn't see more than 10-15 minutes of run time without at least one jump. Most of the time it's only 2-3 feet off the ground though.

I ride a 1987 Skidoo Citation LS (248cc rotax). I sold my 1989 Skidoo Mach 1 583 liquid last year and my 1974 Arctic Cat Cheetah 340 the year before that. I'd like to get another Cheetah, they're pretty cool. But my next sled will probably be something newer like an Arctic Cat F5, I love those things.

More on our 250's here: http://ride250.thatraymond.com

**edit**
Looks like I need to update the "updates" section of ride250, we've ridden a handful of times since the last update.

 

[joecool85]

IMO, 1" pipe wouldn't be strong enough (depending on the wood) unless it was welded every few inches along the stroke to the tube/beam, which means your guides couldn't fully wrap around the tube.(maybe worse). Sorry about the last post, some things just rub you the wrong way.
Mike

Did you read about what pipe I want to use?

I was planning on something like 3/4" schedule 80 (1.05 OD X .154 wall), but I could step it up a notch and do 1" schedule 80 (1.315 OD X .179 wall). I can't imagine that two of those pipes wouldn't be strong enough to hold it from going left/right or up.

It would only be 2 ft of pipe on each side (a little longer than the full stroke of the cylinder). I can't imagine that 2 ft of schedule 80 1" structural carbon steel pipe on each side would be a problem welded only on the ends. Especially since, as I posted before, the cylinder will be U-bolted down (along with the bolt at the end to push off), to keep it from moving.

Stuff like this: http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/hrsteel2.phtml?page=pipe&LimAcc=$LimAcc&aident=