Wood storage

[sloth9669]

Quick question...what is the best way to stop wood rot from wood cut now for next season....there is large amounts so price will affect the choice. Its off the ground on pallets and in rows. I was thinking clear or black plastic on the top hanging over the sides a few inches.....any thoughts or ideas for me out there ?

 

[ciscoguy01]

Good good

If you do that and keep it semi dry, it's very unlikely wood will rot in just a single year. Long as you keep it in a sunny place you'll have no worries. If it's in the shade it doesn't truly get a chance to dry out, dampness and all. Good luck eh?

 

[curdy]

Full sun would be best...a word of advice, make sure you take into consideration the fact that the trees aren't making the level of shade they will in the summer. So stack the wood where it will get the most sun regardless of the season.

 

[laynes69]

Full sun is the best option, By keeping the wood off the ground you are doing the right thing. Just be careful not to wrap it too tight, for this could hold in the moisture. If it rains, cover it and if its nice out, just open it up. It will be fine im sure for next year.

 

[turnkey4099]

Drying wood is the primary concern in stacking. Stack it so it gets plenty of air movement through the ricks. Shade or sun doesn't matter near as much as air movement.

Wood absorbs moisture through the end grain, very little through the sides. thus a rick of wood standing out in the rain is not getting 'wet' except for the top layer or two and that is surface moisture. It will absorb some from water running down the faces though although surprisingly little.

Wood stacked off the ground (on pallets) will not rot in one year, probably not in 5 years. Stacked directly on the ground it will show a bit of very shallow deterioration on the bottom of those splits in direct ground contact.

If you cover, cover only the top. Cover on the sides will restrict air movement and thus drying. I don't cover mine and have 30+ cord (result of a salvage cut), about 5-6 years supply and am not concerned about it rotting except for that in direct ground contact.

Harry K

 

[ciscoguy01]

Scape timbers

I used some old landscape timbers to keep mine up off the ground. You could do the same thing with a few smaller logs like cedar maybe or something. Run 2 side by side and criss cross your ends, leave about 10-12inches between your ranks for air circulation. Sunny, up off the ground, tarp it, you'll be all set for next year eh? Wot!!! (that's canadian for cya later)

 

[logbutcher]

Do It Right--Wood Shed Time

Drying wood is the primary concern in stacking. Stack it so it gets plenty of air movement through the ricks. Shade or sun doesn't matter near as much as air movement.

Wood absorbs moisture through the end grain, very little through the sides. thus a rick of wood standing out in the rain is not getting 'wet' except for the top layer or two and that is surface moisture. It will absorb some from water running down the faces though although surprisingly little.

Wood stacked off the ground (on pallets) will not rot in one year, probably not in 5 years. Stacked directly on the ground it will show a bit of very shallow deterioration on the bottom of those splits in direct ground contact.

If you cover, cover only the top. Cover on the sides will restrict air movement and thus drying. I don't cover mine and have 30+ cord (result of a salvage cut), about 5-6 years supply and am not concerned about it rotting except for that in direct ground contact.

Harry K

Wood shed time. :rockn: If you're doing 24/7 wood heat--stoves, furnace, OWB--make a real storage shed for your fuel. No silly you plastic stuff that condensates and pees on the wood--constantly. opcorn:

Figure out how many cords (real measures, not "face" or "rick" or ????).
Measure the ft² area needed. Cut enough posts from junk softwoods 8"-10" DBH to support a shallow pitched roof, about a 5 pitch. Notch the poles to fit onto cement pads. Hold poles together w 2x8's. Pallets for the 'floor'. Open front, scrap sheathing or other wood spaced for air on the rear and sides. Roof material can be anything cheap: corregated metal, fibreglass 2'x14' strips, etc... Ours went up in a long day when we were building our place. It's 16'x8', for near 4 cords ( 4'X4'x8' ) of split wood. The rest of the wood is stored in a small shed attached to the house, and in small "storm" stacks next to the back door.
There you go. Forget plastic covered piles. They're a PITA :censored:
Sorry guys, no digital camera these parts. I'm luddite.
VOTE EARLY, VOTE OFTEN.

 

[turnkey4099]

Wood shed time. :rockn: If you're doing 24/7 wood heat--stoves, furnace, OWB--make a real storage shed for your fuel. No silly you plastic stuff that condensates and pees on the wood--constantly. opcorn:

Figure out how many cords (real measures, not "face" or "rick" or ????).
Measure the ft² area needed. Cut enough posts from junk softwoods 8"-10" DBH to support a shallow pitched roof, about a 5 pitch. Notch the poles to fit onto cement pads. Hold poles together w 2x8's. Pallets for the 'floor'. Open front, scrap sheathing or other wood spaced for air on the rear and sides. Roof material can be anything cheap: corregated metal, fibreglass 2'x14' strips, etc... Ours went up in a long day when we were building our place. It's 16'x8', for near 4 cords ( 4'X4'x8' ) of split wood. The rest of the wood is stored in a small shed attached to the house, and in small "storm" stacks next to the back door.
There you go. Forget plastic covered piles. They're a PITA :censored:
Sorry guys, no digital camera these parts. I'm luddite.
VOTE EARLY, VOTE OFTEN.

Yeah. I have a shed holding 3 cord, then put another 2 1/2 cord in the back porch at beginning of the heating season. If all of that runs out (rare), it is well into spring and I can haul in from my outside stacks.

Outside stacks are for drying and accumulation (30+ cord now) for future use. Anyting in the shed or porch has been drying minimum of a full year, usually more like 2 years.

Harry K