sesmith
ArboristSite Operative
Big drill bit on a half inch drill. I had a step drill that I used, but I remember having to round up a larger drill to finish it off to size. Luckily I found the right size at work and borrowed it for the job.
Wood stove hack-secondary burn tubes added
- Thread starter sesmith
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tex
ArboristSite Operative
Same in OWB?
I've only skimmed through this thread, so maybe this has been covered. I'll bring it up anyway. Could this same theory be used to increase the efficiency of an OWB? Not the ones with the draft built into the door, but if the blower was in the body of the boiler. I'm thinking a couple of pipes with holes drilled that run under the coal bed for combustion air that then loop back up to the top with more holes drilled for secondary combustion. The theory should work the same, but I'm wondering if the forced draft would mess it up. Any thoughts?:dont-know:
I've only skimmed through this thread, so maybe this has been covered. I'll bring it up anyway. Could this same theory be used to increase the efficiency of an OWB? Not the ones with the draft built into the door, but if the blower was in the body of the boiler. I'm thinking a couple of pipes with holes drilled that run under the coal bed for combustion air that then loop back up to the top with more holes drilled for secondary combustion. The theory should work the same, but I'm wondering if the forced draft would mess it up. Any thoughts?:dont-know:
It's not correct. The secondary air needs to be preheated so the mix of that air and the flammable gases is a bit above 1000 F (per Jay Shelton's testing) for there to be secondary combustion. OP's black iron pipe may be short-lived; also his gate valves could be replaced for much less $$ by reducing couplings. (Just a suggestion.)
E.g. my little stove has two preheaters- one is the cast-iron back wall and the other is stainless sheet that forms a chamber with the cast-iron baffle. (Works great.)
sesmith
ArboristSite Operative
You may be right, though the black pipe has been in for 3 seasons, so far with no sign of deterioration or warping. I originally thought I'd be using the gate valves to meter the secondary air, but just leave them open all the way. They are nice to have as a way to be able to shut off the air flow in case there were ever a chimney fire.
As far as the question in the previous post...I know this same thing has been tried on some OWB's. Do a search of the archives here.
kees53
ArboristSite Lurker
nice stiove new idea,
here the link to a stover who works like a tornado so to speak, it turns around the flames to mix air.
but is it true?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5cr4R700WI
I have tryed with holes drilled in the sides of the floor and not from unther the floor,
so the firebed gets air from the sidewalls. well it works very nicely.
here the stove inside picture.
http://www.burley.co.uk/pdf/Woodburner 2010 brochure.pdf
here the link to a stover who works like a tornado so to speak, it turns around the flames to mix air.
but is it true?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5cr4R700WI
I have tryed with holes drilled in the sides of the floor and not from unther the floor,
so the firebed gets air from the sidewalls. well it works very nicely.
here the stove inside picture.
http://www.burley.co.uk/pdf/Woodburner 2010 brochure.pdf
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kees53
ArboristSite Lurker
I don,t mean to watch the fire, I have glass, but the floor where the firebed lays on normally it gets primairy air form beneeth I have change it to from the edges it indeed geives fire a twist like a tornado and so more time to burn before go to the chimney..
"extended flame path" from tornado sounds good. My son spent years in Utricht & speaks Dutch.
kees53
ArboristSite Lurker
That is nice, een goedeavond dan voor je zoon.
to be honest I am more for a way to get a spinning fire in a horizontal way and not vertikal like the burley.
I have in my stove holes just below the shimey exit, and just above the glass window and down in the firebed (not below like the most have and for shure the classic ones) so I have a way found to get a spinning fire who will terminate the shimney way of suck it to fast whaa is the biggest problem. Al the air is preheated.
here the fore in the stove, watch how clean is the glass and the superhot firebed..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUeGsfb7LL0
here a ather way, a twisting fire on a horizontal way, better than vertical, watch the sparks what it does, you see the direction
of the flames twisting and the smoke back to the firebed..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTWnavBsNDU
and it is hot very hot last day 220 0C degree in the shimney 20 cm above the stove. .
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Wife'nHubby
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TheLazyBFarm
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I thought he got banned. Why is he back with bad advice?
CrappieKeith
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You have got to be kidding...drill a hole.
He was banned and for some reason he's back.....:msp_blink::msp_blink:
To quote the owner of arborist.com:
"TO ALL: After reading much of the information provided by Pook above, it seems to be misinformed and even dangerous in some cases. Please disregard any posts made by him before this post. I have informed him and will inform you all, if you are giving out bad information knowingly you will be banned from this site and if somebody gets hurt by your poor information, you could be personally liable. This could include jail time or be at the very least financially liable. You are personally liable for anything you say on here or any other website!!! Since there seems to be so many posts with poor/dangerous information, I feel it has to be on purpose as nobody can believe many of the things that have been said, which includes the poster.
Thanks!!! Have a Happy, warm Holiday to everyone!! Also, Thanks to all that try to help others on here and have a genuine interest in making this a site full of good/useful information.
__________________
Darin Johnson
www.arboristsite.com
Our business is growing"
Note that the assertion is followed by a ? which means its a question, in hopes that the issue might be furthered & directly addressed instead of "shooting the messenger". Observing the fire is critical 2me & I have drilled many holes without consequence. With an alteration which has already involved drilling for the pipes??????????:biggrinbounce2:
You have got to be kidding...drill a hole.
He was banned and for some reason he's back.....:msp_blink::msp_blink:
To quote the owner of arborist.com:
"TO ALL: After reading much of the information provided by Pook above, it seems to be misinformed and even dangerous in some cases. Please disregard any posts made by him before this post. I have informed him and will inform you all, if you are giving out bad information knowingly you will be banned from this site and if somebody gets hurt by your poor information, you could be personally liable. This could include jail time or be at the very least financially liable. You are personally liable for anything you say on here or any other website!!! Since there seems to be so many posts with poor/dangerous information, I feel it has to be on purpose as nobody can believe many of the things that have been said, which includes the poster.
Thanks!!! Have a Happy, warm Holiday to everyone!! Also, Thanks to all that try to help others on here and have a genuine interest in making this a site full of good/useful information.
__________________
Darin Johnson
www.arboristsite.com
Our business is growing"
CrappieKeith
Addicted to ArboristSite
C'mon everybody...Pook just jumped off of a bridge...everyone follow...:bang::bang::bang::bang:
To quote the owner of arborist.com:
"TO ALL: After reading much of the information provided by Pook above, it seems to be misinformed and even dangerous in some cases. Please disregard any posts made by him before this post. I have informed him and will inform you all, if you are giving out bad information knowingly you will be banned from this site and if somebody gets hurt by your poor information, you could be personally liable. This could include jail time or be at the very least financially liable. You are personally liable for anything you say on here or any other website!!! Since there seems to be so many posts with poor/dangerous information, I feel it has to be on purpose as nobody can believe many of the things that have been said, which includes the poster.
Thanks!!! Have a Happy, warm Holiday to everyone!! Also, Thanks to all that try to help others on here and have a genuine interest in making this a site full of good/useful information.
__________________
Darin Johnson
www.arboristsite.com
Our business is growing"
Nothing like deferring from the issue? Yucons have no visible access to the fire so seeing the fire is insignificant?
loganj01
ArboristSite Operative
I've drilled lots of holes too...but never in the door of my stove
All joking aside, I have to pull the Craft stove out this spring for an overhaul because many years of hot fires have finally warped the damper to the point that it really doesn't work anymore. I'm thinking about adding some secondary tubes to it when it goes back together. I have some 1" schedule 10 stainless pipe. One of the contractors at the plant hooked me up with a piece of 1/4" stainless tread plate that I'm going to hang in the top of the stove as a heat shield between the fire and the damper. Then I'll run the secondary tubes along the bottom, up the back, and attach them to the tread plate. If I leave a couple of inches clearance all the way around the tread plate, that should be enough to keep up my draft (40' masonry chimney) while protecting the damper plate from excess heat?In order for the 2ndary flame to appear & maintain the temp of the gas mix has to be~1200*f? If the flame disappears, the 2ndary air still goes to the hottest area of the stove. Some steel baffle epa stoves have insulated baffleplates with kawool or similar i think.I've drilled lots of holes too...but never in the door of my stove
The magic of the 2ndary flame is that it esatblishes a hot zone above the woodload so to cook the wood from the top down & burn the gas more evenly than when burning load from the coals up? Read my "nature of fire" blog in my signature?
These guys build an interesting product line..I have one and its perfect for our situation. ( Model "Thermo-Control 500") Something you folks might want to look into. They use stainless for all the water lines internal to the Stove. These aren't boilers so it matters. Especially if the power goes out and the circulators stop for a while..boils out the water..things get hot.
http://nationalstoveworks1.clickforward.com/index.html
http://nationalstoveworks1.clickforward.com/index.html
kees53
ArboristSite Lurker
afterburn now succes
Hi All
I have put in a insert, I have preheated air from under the firebed, and with two pipes of 5 x 5 cm to the pipe above the fire, now it wil burn, like hell.
firestones get redhot.
here movie.
YouTube - Video-0004.mp4‏
Hi All
I have put in a insert, I have preheated air from under the firebed, and with two pipes of 5 x 5 cm to the pipe above the fire, now it wil burn, like hell.
firestones get redhot.
here movie.
YouTube - Video-0004.mp4‏
This guy built an affordable and efficient barrel stove with secondary burn. May be good for brainstorming if someone is venturing into stove building or modification.
Barrel stoves, if done right, are a great bang for the buck if you are building from scratch.
Here is a site with instructions for building a good, high-thermal-mass barrel stove.
He uses a 35 gallon barrel within a 55 gallon barrel, but you may also simply use one barrel and line the lower half with firebrick.
Place a 1/4" steel plate across the top of the firebrick with a 6" V-notch, and then insulate the top of the steel with more firebrick or rockwool. This way, the barrel will last for many years and the stove will fire like a furnace.
Barrel stoves, if done right, are a great bang for the buck if you are building from scratch.
Here is a site with instructions for building a good, high-thermal-mass barrel stove.
He uses a 35 gallon barrel within a 55 gallon barrel, but you may also simply use one barrel and line the lower half with firebrick.
Place a 1/4" steel plate across the top of the firebrick with a 6" V-notch, and then insulate the top of the steel with more firebrick or rockwool. This way, the barrel will last for many years and the stove will fire like a furnace.
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