'Wooding' truck died

[WoodTick007]

I am afraid that your parts are going to be relatively inexpensive but your labors going to be in the 7-10 hours. If your going to replace the bearing you might as well replace everything inside the bellhousing along with the pilot bearing engine rear main seal and front seal on transmission.

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[turnkey4099]

The fat lady has sung. Came back from a shopping trip to Wal Mart and stopped at the shop to check on it. They were jusst coming out of the shop with it.

$660, better than I expected by a couple bills. Totally new clutch parts and had to machine the flywheel. That bearing had disintegrated and chewed the hell out of everything it could find. Took me an hour to put all the 'wooding' stuff back in it, all loaded and ready to go in the morning to start picking up the stuff waiting. Probably pull a couple dead logs since I'll have a load for traction.

 

[benp]

You're back in bidness!!!

 

[turnkey4099]

You're back in bidness!!!

Feels good...as long as I don't look at all the scratches and dings I put on the car. Truck drives like a new one and I don't have to shove the clutch through the firewall to allow the starter to run...I hate that "safety" switch.

 

[chucker]

!! "GOOD WOODEN " !! to you from here on ..... stay safe now with all that fresh pulling power!

 

[turnkey4099]

So much for planning to pull logs. Out, loaded up most of what I had cut, looked for something more to do and decided to start cutting the brush around another good tree...totally forgot about those dead logs that need pulling and cut up enough to get on a fire pile!! Truck overheating a bit on the way home with a definite overload, probably needs more coolant. I got carried away loading 'just one more piece' and it was telling me that I was way over reasonable.

 

[lefturnfreek]

You can just reach up to the clutch peddle mount and unplug the wires to the safety switch, jump them together and tape them off, GTG... IMO the idea of the safety switch is to save dummies who just reach in an open window to start a standard, the other half is you are forcing an un oil pressure supported crank forwards against the thrust bearing, then cranking, which beats the piss out of it.

 

[WoodTick007]

That seems very reasonable. . .do you know what brand clutch and slave cylinder they installed?

 

[turnkey4099]

You can just reach up to the clutch peddle mount and unplug the wires to the safety switch, jump them together and tape them off, GTG... IMO the idea of the safety switch is to save dummies who just reach in an open window to start a standard, the other half is you are forcing an un oil pressure supported crank forwards against the thrust bearing, then cranking, which beats the piss out of it.

Things one discovers...been at least 20 years since I bought the truck (used), cussed it eveer since for having to mash hard on the clutch to start. Today I discovered it wasn't that safety switch at all, it is the ignition switch that has to be forced. I hate to replace it as the tumblers are all jammed in the open position so no key is needed (other than to unlock the doors).

That seems very reasonable. . .do you know what brand clutch and slave cylinder they installed?

No I don't, They would have gotten them from what used to be NAPA - the only parts house in town. I see in the phone book they are now "Colfax Auto Parts" so they must not be NAPA assiciated anymore.

 

[JeffHK454]

That seems very reasonable. . .do you know what brand clutch and slave cylinder they installed?

That's what I was thinking..very reasonable price for complete clutch job. I might have missed this but was the truck 4x4?

 

[lefturnfreek]

Things one discovers...been at least 20 years since I bought the truck (used), cussed it eveer since for having to mash hard on the clutch to start. Today I discovered it wasn't that safety switch at all, it is the ignition switch that has to be forced. I hate to replace it as the tumblers are all jammed in the open position so no key is needed (other than to unlock the doors).


No I don't, They would have gotten them from what used to be NAPA - the only parts house in town. I see in the phone book they are now "Colfax Auto Parts" so they must not be NAPA assiciated anymore.

You may not have to replace everything as this is a common issue.

Try lubing the transfer rod that runs down the top of the column down to the actual ignition switch. There is a plastic cover right by the dash, push down on it towards the dash to disengage it, spray lube it and key cycle 1/2 doz times. If it's still stiff then you may have to remove the steering wheel then spray lube down the top section of the rack and transfer rod.

To remove the steering wheel, undo the nut a few turns, don't completely remove it, now pull on one side then the other in a rocking motion, once it pops remove the nut and the wheel. Take note of wheel position as I can't remember if there is a master spline on those shafts and if it does it will only go one one way.

Hope that helps.

 

[turnkey4099]

That's what I was thinking..very reasonable price for complete clutch job. I might have missed this but was the truck 4x4?

Nope, 2x 4spd and I was also surprised, when handed the bill I said "Is that all?!". He offered to raise it

 

[turnkey4099]

Got stranded today. Ran out to clean up a blowdown Pulled up did a 90 degree turn hit reverse and killed the engine when let up on the clutch (needs a bit of gas or it balks). Hit ignition and go nothing, not even a click. Tried it several times with same result. Decided do some of the clearance work. 2 1/2 hours later I tried it again a couple times. Still nothing. Bit the bullet and walked about 1/2 mile to Von, the farmers, house. He ran up with his truck. I figured a pull start should work, we hooked up the chain, I crawled in, hit switch for giggles and it started!!

One of those intermittent things I guess. Fun trying to sort it out.

Thanks for the suggestions Leftturn. The switch operates freely so I don't think that is the problem. Just got to arrange a ride to get the truck to town. Hope I don't have to call a tow again. I

 

[turnkey4099]

You may not have to replace everything as this is a common issue.

Try lubing the transfer rod that runs down the top of the column down to the actual ignition switch. There is a plastic cover right by the dash, push down on it towards the dash to disengage it, spray lube it and key cycle 1/2 doz times. If it's still stiff then you may have to remove the steering wheel then spray lube down the top section of the rack and transfer rod.

To remove the steering wheel, undo the nut a few turns, don't completely remove it, now pull on one side then the other in a rocking motion, once it pops remove the nut and the wheel. Take note of wheel position as I can't remember if there is a master spline on those shafts and if it does it will only go one one way.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for that. It sounds like that is the problem. I just tried but wasn't able to get that plastic cover to release. Anymore at my age 'wrenching' is something I don't engage in any more. Off to 'Master's Touch' shop tomorrow, probably by tow truck again.

 

[lefturnfreek]

You need to find the starter solenoid by the battery and try to jump the next time it balks.




Key on and jump the S connector to the large battery connectors to the one that goes to the battery, a small piece of wire or a screw driver will do the job as it is the low current side. If it just clicks and does nothing then jump the large terminals together with something you don't mind arc marks on as that is the high current side.

If it just clicks and does nothing, replace the solenoid, if jumping the large terminals does nothing also it's time to replace the starter or go over your battery connections.

 

[WoodTick007]

It appears that the people who did the work must charge a low hourly labor rate. Very hard to find these days.

 

[turnkey4099]

It appears that the people who did the work must charge a low hourly labor rate. Very hard to find these days.

Unfortunately I didn't really look at the bill and it is now buried in the recycle bin. I'll check the next one, hopefully get it running tomorrow. Glad I thought to back it into the parking spot when I came home today, make it easy for the tow truck.

 

[turnkey4099]

You need to find the starter solenoid by the battery and try to jump the next time it balks.

View attachment 526245


Key on and jump the S connector to the large battery connectors to the one that goes to the battery, a small piece of wire or a screw driver will do the job as it is the low current side. If it just clicks and does nothing then jump the large terminals together with something you don't mind arc marks on as that is the high current side.

If it just clicks and does nothing, replace the solenoid, if jumping the large terminals does nothing also it's time to replace the starter or go over your battery connections.

Thanks, I'll try that in the morning before calling a tow.

 

[lefturnfreek]

No problem.

I will clarify one thing, if the solenoid clicks and does nothing when jumped, and the starter does run when you jump the large terminals, then check your battery connections or replace the solenoid, if jumping either part does nothing then look at the battery connections and if they are good replace the starter.

 

[turnkey4099]

Managed to get it going this morning. First try ...nothing. Pulled steering wheel back and forth a couple times and it worked. Truck is back at the fix-it shop, I came by at noon and it was in the shop then. He agrees that it is probably the rod but probably won't be able to get to it today.

Put in a good 3 hours clearing brush, bucking limb wood, Mike has most of another load waiting for him.