I have a nice PP woods 044 for sale, has low hours and a lot of mods, e-mail for details. thanks.
Woods 044 for sale
- Thread starter Jacob J.
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Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
its a modified saw, built for work, not racing, but still more powerful than a stock saw.
Yes, it is a power ported saw, it has an 046 Magnum cylinder and piston, the piston was machined to be a "pop-up" piston, which raises the compression, it also has the 1128 400 1218 'lightweight' flywheel and 1203 self-advancing ignition.
Hunter-
I did the porting work, Ajax Machine works in Eugene, Ore., did the pop-up piston, and shaved the base of the cylinder. I would put this saw up against any woods 044, 046, 272, 371/2, or a PS-7300. The only saw I wouldn't put this one up against is an EHP 7900.
I did the porting work, Ajax Machine works in Eugene, Ore., did the pop-up piston, and shaved the base of the cylinder. I would put this saw up against any woods 044, 046, 272, 371/2, or a PS-7300. The only saw I wouldn't put this one up against is an EHP 7900.
MacDaddy
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a 372
Does that mean you're looking to trade for a Stihl?
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Hi Jacob, I'll trade for an Emac 980, but you ship first ok?
So PP stands for Pop Piston as opposed to Power Ported in this case?
Does this mean the saw was Pop Ported as well, and if so, who is Pop?
John
So PP stands for Pop Piston as opposed to Power Ported in this case?
Does this mean the saw was Pop Ported as well, and if so, who is Pop?
John
Pop was Noah Beery Jr. when he was on the "Rockford Files". Gypo I'll trade a pop-ported 044 for an Efco, I'll even give your ports an extra tickle while I'm in there.
Hacksaw Hank
Hacksaw Hank
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Bob- Here's some pop-up pistons as they appear from the machine shop. On the far left is a Jonsered 2186 piston from crash/banger's 2186. In the middle is a Stihl 066 piston from a work saw I am putting together. These both have a 1mm riser machined down from the stock crown. When you do this you have machine the base of your cylinder also to compensate, and then advance your timing because after lowering the cylinder you've moved the entire sequence of the engine ahead some.
I've tried TIG-ing up modern pistons for the dome, it doesn't work in a woods saw, the extra weight creates too much vibration. In the older saws, like a Stihl 056 or a Homelite 2100 Super, you could do that because they have HUGE cranks and throws, with a lot of intertia, so a little extra weight isn't an issue on the reciprocating assembly. These modern saws are so tuned up however, it's better to make the piston lighter, for a smoother running saw ( in the right builder's hands ).
I've tried TIG-ing up modern pistons for the dome, it doesn't work in a woods saw, the extra weight creates too much vibration. In the older saws, like a Stihl 056 or a Homelite 2100 Super, you could do that because they have HUGE cranks and throws, with a lot of intertia, so a little extra weight isn't an issue on the reciprocating assembly. These modern saws are so tuned up however, it's better to make the piston lighter, for a smoother running saw ( in the right builder's hands ).
Also, you can't make the crown over the first ring land too thin, it has to be at least 2mm tall over the pin to take the pressure of combustion, especially in a higher compression saw. No change to the octane rating of your gas, although I'd recommend a high quality oil, maybe even one with some Castor in it. I currently run Spectro SX ( 16 oz. ) with 4 oz. of Castor and 6 oz. of TVT metal conditioner. Very good set-up.
A new and combustion chamber here at the machine costs a lot more than having the piston work done and base of the cylinder shave. Also, making a new head with a smaller CC is a big no-no for a woods saw, creates too much heat and is too unreliable and a magnet for air leaks. They're great for race saws that only run a few seconds at a time. With a pop-up piston you can run a woods saw for hundreds of hours.
MacDaddy
Addicted to ArboristSite
raising compresion by a dome or a smaller combustion chamber is the same in the long run and build the same heat Compressed air builds heat on the amount of preasure put on it, more preasure = more heat As far as a removable head leaking depends on the quality of work you have done all you have to do is add a thin copper gasket made out of shim material it cuts with a razor blade, real easy to do
An aftermarket removable head of any ilk isn't going to last as long on a modern saw run in the woods as one that retains a one-piece cylinder, I'll lay good money on it. There's a reason manufacturers make the one-piece cylinder design, and a pop-up piston isn't going to raise the compression as much as a remanufactured CC that is much smaller, although I agree the quality of the builder plays a role, but I've never met a builder who'd recommend a removable head saw for the woods. Even the Mac kart saws didn't last that long.
LJS
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Heads
Your 101 Mac's were great saw motors with removable heads. They had power and were used to cut big timber. As far as lasting, try running your saw today, in the timber the mac's were used in, and see how long it would last. Oh, stick a 42" bar on it too.
The removable head can be made any shape or size, and you can adjust the squish, combustion chamber, and compression. There is a reason for a one piece cylinder design, it's much cheaper to manufacture, and this is what your doing. Making compression the cheap way. Nothing wrong with it, but not the best, or cheapest way to go about it.
Your 101 Mac's were great saw motors with removable heads. They had power and were used to cut big timber. As far as lasting, try running your saw today, in the timber the mac's were used in, and see how long it would last. Oh, stick a 42" bar on it too.
The removable head can be made any shape or size, and you can adjust the squish, combustion chamber, and compression. There is a reason for a one piece cylinder design, it's much cheaper to manufacture, and this is what your doing. Making compression the cheap way. Nothing wrong with it, but not the best, or cheapest way to go about it.
The Sand Man
ArboristSite Lurker
Sounds like the is a good saw.
Do you have any video of the saw?
Please give me a little feedback about your porting background and some of the saws you have done.
How many saws do you have out there?
Thanks
TSM
Do you have any video of the saw?
Please give me a little feedback about your porting background and some of the saws you have done.
How many saws do you have out there?
Thanks
TSM
LJS- I ran the Macs in the woods when I was a young guy like you, I ran both the karts and integral one piece motors. The karts come with a removable head from the factory, and still wouldn't last as long as a one-piece cylinder, this is due to the use and abuse a saw gets from being pushed hard for hours on end, day in and day out. But Dennis C. was right, they EAT wood.
Times have changed as far the wood being cut. In the days of the Macs, the wood was big and a long bar was standard. These days, the wood is small and short bars are the norm. This is a reason why saws have evolved the way they have. If you want to take a big Mac or Homelite and put a 28" on it and go work over a commercial thin or a straight fall tree-length job, be my guest.
Even go-karters run the 125 saw motors for karts at times because they last longer than the two-piece kart motors.
Times have changed as far the wood being cut. In the days of the Macs, the wood was big and a long bar was standard. These days, the wood is small and short bars are the norm. This is a reason why saws have evolved the way they have. If you want to take a big Mac or Homelite and put a 28" on it and go work over a commercial thin or a straight fall tree-length job, be my guest.
Even go-karters run the 125 saw motors for karts at times because they last longer than the two-piece kart motors.
