Would like a parts list for Aux oiler.....

[casey v]

I have made up a couple of bolts but haven't installed one yet. I drilled a brass bollt lengthwise and the cross drilled it to where it will fit in the bar groove. Once installed, I plan to make it fit in the groove so that the drivers don't hang up on it with a fine hachsaw blade.

Mike

 

[CaseyForrest]

You want a bigger hole drilled through the bolt lengthwise, the 3/32 holes are cross drilled near the head of the bolt, one bar rail height above the head. Run a nut onto the bolt, then grind off some of the threads on the end so the tube can seal without leaking.

That way the hole drilled in the bar is just behind the bottom of the rail. On one bar I got it a bit too far into the bar and had to drill a hole through the bottom of the bar groove to allow oil to pass. Only missed by about 1/32". The 3/32" holes will feed the inside of the groove.

Make more sense. You can even buy the bolt, and nut from Granberg for a few bucks. That's what I did for my second bar.

Mark

Ok, I may be lost, but Ill give it a go.

Drill a hole in the bar, just under the bottom of the bar groove. Now, take the 3/32 bit, and drill down between the rails, towards the center of the bar, and intersect the hole you drilled for the bolt. Insert the modified bolt, and the hole that is drilled along the width of the bolt will oil the bar groove. Correct?

Does someone have a picture?!?!? LOL

After re-reading, I think I asnwered my own question. If you drill the hole, so you are getting into the bar groove with the bolt, dont you run the risk of the drivers catching the bolt?

 

[oldsaw]

I use the cheapest 5w-20 motor oil I can find in the auxiliary oiler. I've tried bar oil and various weights of motor oil and this one works the best for me. IMO the tacking agent really isn't necessary in this setup because you are supplying oil on both sides of the chain. Plus, the thinner oil seem to work it's way into the chain better when enough is present. I still use regular bar oil in the saw.

If you want thinner oil, the Poulan stuff at Walmart in the short gallon bottle is a lot thinner than most. Thinner than I like in the saw for summer use.

Mark

 

[flht01]

Ok, I may be lost, but Ill give it a go.

Drill a hole in the bar, just under the bottom of the bar groove. Now, take the 3/32 bit, and drill down between the rails, towards the center of the bar, and intersect the hole you drilled for the bolt. Insert the modified bolt, and the hole that is drilled along the width of the bolt will oil the bar groove. Correct?

Does someone have a picture?!?!? LOL

After re-reading, I think I asnwered my own question. If you drill the hole, so you are getting into the bar groove with the bolt, dont you run the risk of the drivers catching the bolt?

Granberg recommends drilling the hole so aprox 1/8 of the top of the hole is protruding into the bar groove. They recommend a 5/16" hole for their bolt (mpn#967).
If you drill a hole in the bar and a hole in the bar groove intersecting the hole in the bar you'll get the same effect. Sounds like your on the right track. Drill slow, less than 80 rpm and use lots of drill/tap oil.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Granberg recommends drilling the hole so aprox 1/8 of the top of the hole is protruding into the bar groove. They recommend a 5/16" hole for their bolt (mpn#967).
If you drill a hole in the bar and a hole in the bar groove intersecting the hole in the bar you'll get the same effect. Sounds like your on the right track. Drill slow, less than 80 rpm and use lots of drill/tap oil.

It started to make sense after I stopped thinking about it.

It didnt occur to me that the aux oiler bolt went all the way through the bar. I thought it was just a hole on one side, in only the rail.

Im also leaning towards using PVC. Im going to attempt to attach it so it will swivel. I believe it would make it allot easier to remove the saw, and set the entire rig down without needing to leave it on its side.

 

[flht01]

It started to make sense after I stopped thinking about it.

It didnt occur to me that the aux oiler bolt went all the way through the bar. I thought it was just a hole on one side, in only the rail.

Im also leaning towards using PVC. Im going to attempt to attach it so it will swivel. I believe it would make it allot easier to remove the saw, and set the entire rig down without needing to leave it on its side.

Granberg's bolt has a little machine work done creating two shoulders and a recessed grove for a tighter fit in the bar but a plain bolt with a hole drilled lenghtways and one drill crossways is all that's needed. It won't matter if you leak a little around the bar or where the hose slips on as long as most ends up in the bar groove. One other thing, I'd mark the bolt head so you'll know the direction of the cross drilled hole, it'll make it a lot easier to line it up with the bar groove hole.

I usually fill my tank about half full so I can set it down standing up. That keeps the oil from spilling out of the vent hole in the cap. I usually top off the aux oiler about every second or third tank.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Granberg's bolt has a little machine work done creating two shoulders and a recessed grove for a tighter fit in the bar but a plain bolt with a hole drilled lenghtways and one drill crossways is all that's needed. It won't matter if you leak a little around the bar or where the hose slips on as long as most ends up in the bar groove. One other thing, I'd mark the bolt head so you'll know the direction of the cross drilled hole, it'll make it a lot easier to line it up with the bar groove hole.

I usually fill my tank about half full so I can set it down standing up. That keeps the oil from spilling out of the vent hole in the cap. I usually top off the aux oiler about every second or third tank.

I can put a copper or rubber washer between the bolt head and the bar.

Im thinking about making a PVC tube, probably out of 2" or 2.5", glue a cap on the bottom, and glue a slip to thread fitting on the top. Thay way I can have a threaded cap, and seal it if I need to.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Here's the pics Casey.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Hey thanks Aggie. I used those plastic fittings when I built my pressure pump/gauge.

I think I may copy your design, almost to the tee!!!

 

[CaseyForrest]

Here she is. The zip ties are temporary. I dont have clamps big enough to go around the pipe. I also still need to attach it to the mill. I had an epiphany in the shower. I think I may construct it so the oiler slides onto permanent rails attached to the mill. That way its easily removeable.

I started out with a plastic valve like Aggie had. Ended up putting a little to much tourqe to it, and it broke. I did, however, get to use my easy outs to remove what was left from the PVC cap!!!

Just another shot.

And a couple of the bolt I drilled. Keep in mind I dont have a bench vise, channel locks and a cordless drill.

 

[oldsaw]

Good job Casey. I like ingenuity. I keep teasing Dad that I grew up on "Improvise Acres", since we were 25 miles from the nearest parts store, creativity was a good trait.

Mark

 

[CaseyForrest]

I cant take the credit for it, I copied Aggies design.

 

[oldsaw]

I know that, but you figured all the stuff out and built it.

Mark

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Good job.

 

[CaseyForrest]

OK, I believe Ive got all the bits and pieces I need to make the Oiler fully removeable. I should be able to get it drilled and mounted tomorrow, with pics.

I got my bar drilled tonite. Wasnt to bad, other then the first hole I drilled was to high into the rail!!! A little grinding action with the trusty dremel, and its fine. I did take the Diamond wheel for the Dremel, and slide it between the rails and opened up the hole where the oil will flow into the rail.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I'd like to see how you make it removeable. Right now mine just stays on but it gets in the way when I'm transporting it sometimes.

 

[CaseyForrest]

OK, here she is.....

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Purdy kool!

Now...

How does it work?opcorn:

 

[CaseyForrest]

Purdy kool!

Now...

How does it work?opcorn:

Well, it slides on and off that round stock pretty well!!!!

 

[woodshop]

Well, it slides on and off that round stock pretty well!!!!

Pretty nifty way to solve that problem casey... I might have to copycat that one if and when I put a aux oiler on my mill. Thanks for sharing it with us.