Want to Buy WTB MS290 Crank Seals

[AlotL1keVegas]

Looking for 2 new "hard" crank seals.
#9630-003-1743
Wasn't paying attention. I figured while I had the saw apart for cleaning, I might as well pull the engine, not thinking. I forgot this is a clam shell, unlike my ms193t. So I unsealed the crank case. Now I have no choice but to tear it down and re seal it. Could I re use my crank seals? I know I should technically replace them while its apart. I just don't feel like waiting 2 weeks for the dealership to get them.
Or does anyone have any of the OEM Hard crank seals?
Part Number is #9639-003-1743
PayPal ready, thanks

Side note, the dealer has 2 of the "soft seals" in stock. Could I use them, even though the engine is apart? Will they last as long as the hard seals?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Looking for 2 new "hard" crank seals.
#9630-003-1743
Wasn't paying attention. I figured while I had the saw apart for cleaning, I might as well pull the engine, not thinking. I forgot this is a clam shell, unlike my ms193t. So I unsealed the crank case. Now I have no choice but to tear it down and re seal it. Could I re use my crank seals? I know I should technically replace them while its apart. I just don't feel like waiting 2 weeks for the dealership to get them.
Or does anyone have any of the OEM Hard crank seals?
Part Number is #9639-003-1743
PayPal ready, thanks

Side note, the dealer has 2 of the "soft seals" in stock. Could I use them, even though the engine is apart? Will they last as long as the hard seals?

Personally, I hate the hard plastic seals from Stihl. Pita to work with and seal changes damn near require case disassembly.
use what you’ve found, imo.

 

[AlotL1keVegas]

Personally, I hate the hard plastic seals from Stihl. Pita to work with and seal changes damn near require case disassembly.
use what you’ve found, imo.

I already have the cases apart lol

 

[cookies]

The hard seals are rubber coated, get the hard seals and be done with it.. Look on ebay and see if you can find a seller that offers expedited shipping. I've built a few using the sawzilla seals that are still going strong years later...just closely inspect the seal lips before installing.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I already have the cases apart lol

As suggested…, then, go ahead and get the hard seals. Just don’t screw up the install, lol…DAMHIKT….

 

[sean donato]

You can get the "hard" seals about anywhere. Just did a ms390 with a set from dukes saw shop. Shipping was fast and they were dirt cheap.

 

[AlotL1keVegas]

As suggested…, then, go ahead and get the hard seals. Just don’t screw up the install, lol…DAMHIKT….

Don't screw up the install? Were just talking about a couple of seals

 

[AlotL1keVegas]

You can get the "hard" seals about anywhere. Just did a ms390 with a set from dukes saw shop. Shipping was fast and they were dirt cheap.

Are these the seals you used? I'm just a little hesitant they're not oem.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285040207301

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Don't screw up the install? Were just talking about a couple of seals

Well, the first time I installed that type was on a 200t, put one in backwards as I was used to a regular oil seal…oops. Tried to pull it…can’t be done so had to disassemble the case…again…to get the damn thing out.
the next 3 builds I was more careful

 

[sean donato]

Are these the seals you used? I'm just a little hesitant they're not oem.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285040207301

Yep. Those are it.
Also, stihl doesn't make seals. Unless it's a stupid size, I rarely get seals and bearings from oem. Neither are parts they manufacture and typically get bid to the cheapest person that makes them.

 

[AlotL1keVegas]

What do you guys think about this? The saw had a 140psi average on compression. Personally I don't see anything that's a major concern. To me it's just average wear and tear. The piston had slight wear on the exhaust side, but I can still see the machining grooves. The intake side of the piston looks the "worst". There is some wear. I can see some machining grooves towards the top, and sides of the piston. The cylinder looks decent. There is a little wear, almost like a circle, about half way down the cylinder. Just above the intake port, and just below the exhaust port. To me it almost looks the maybe the saw sat for an extended period of time with the piston in that position? There was slight blow by from the piston rings as evident from the carbon on the piston.
So what are your guys thoughts on this? Would love to hear your opinions.
I was thinking of just tossing a new set of oem rings in it, along with a new set of crank seals and calling it a day.
What do you think?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

New rings and run it, my .02

 

[Captain Bruce]

Don't screw up the install? Were just talking about a couple of seals

and than it comes back apart...

 

[stihltech]

When doing a tear down, use the "hard" seals (still have rubber of some kind on the outside). When replacing seal only, use the soft seal.
From experience, I find many times after installing the soft seal, the case sealant is leaking right by the seal. The you must tear down.
You are best off doing the tear down and assessing the mechanical condition of rotating parts. Replace what is needed.
Unless you like doing it multiple times.

 

[AlotL1keVegas]

When doing a tear down, use the "hard" seals (still have rubber of some kind on the outside). When replacing seal only, use the soft seal.
From experience, I find many times after installing the soft seal, the case sealant is leaking right by the seal. The you must tear down.
You are best off doing the tear down and assessing the mechanical condition of rotating parts. Replace what is needed.
Unless you like doing it multiple times.

Already tore down. Everything looks ok. I was just going to do the seals and rings as preventative maintenance. I just didn't want to have to wait for the hard crank seals to get here. But I'll have to wait anyways for the rings.