Yet another chain question

[precaud]

Two chains, same type. The bottom one is almost new, maybe 3-4 hours of use. The top one has many hours on it. There's still plenty of tooth left, but the drive links are pretty worn and rounded.
Would you chuck this chain?
What does the rounding do to sprocket wear?

 

[scottr]

Drive links

precaud , don't chuck that chain , that rounded tip does not run on the sprocket under normal conditions . If you are seeing three grooves in your sprocket then it has worn due to excessive slack .

 

[precaud]

Wow, scottr, you nailed it. There are three grooves on the sprocket - two on the top of each gear, and one on the sides. So this is a tensioning issue... my technique has been to tighten the adjustment until the bottom of the middle of the chain just contacts the bar. How much more do you suggest?

 

[scottr]

Wow, scottr, you nailed it. There are three grooves on the sprocket - two on the top of each gear, and one on the sides. So this is a tensioning issue... my technique has been to tighten the adjustment until the bottom of the middle of the chain just contacts the bar. How much more do you suggest?

Don't tension it any more . No sag no drag is what works for me . If the grooves on your sprocket are .020" deep then my owners manual recommends to replace the sprocket .

 

[precaud]

If the grooves on your sprocket are .020" deep then my owners manual recommends to replace the sprocket .

Yeah, I read that too, so I showed it to the dealer last summer, asked what he thought, he said "I've seen worse - just run it."

So, how many grooves are normal wear? Just the two on top?

 

[SawTroll]

I would in fact chuck both those chains, or relegate them to bruchcutting.

They look like RM2........

 

[precaud]

I would in fact chuck both those chains, or relegate them to bruchcutting.
They look like RM2........

Yes, but that wasn't the question, was it?
I just bought some 63PM to replace it, but these might be good for backup, hence the question. I'm also just trying to learn something here

 

[B_Turner]

My first thought like some of the others was wanting to see your sprocket. once your sprocket is worn, it is tough on all chains, like a motorcycle.

I am from the school that says run about 3 rotating them on a sprocket and bar, wearing them all evenly. About the time the chains are all shot, replace all and the sprocket.

I run so many chains that I can't do this, but I do ditch the chain and sprocket when they show any considerable wear. I prefer Oregon replacement sprockets to the other cheaper aftermarket ones that Baileys often has on sale. A sprocket only costs 5 bucks or less, so don't be afraid to throw some out now and again.

 

[precaud]

I am from the school that says run about 3 rotating them on a sprocket and bar, wearing them all evenly. About the time the chains are all shot, replace all and the sprocket.

This sounds like a good idea, thanks. I'll definitely do it on my new 5100S...

 

[precaud]

Don't tension it any more . No sag no drag is what works for me .

OK, since this issue originates from a tension issue, consider this. Is it possible to over-tighten the bar clamp nut? The saw is a Stihl 011AVT.

The reason I ask is, to adjust the chain, I loosen the bar clamp nut (there's only one), then finger-tighten it. Hold the bar nose up, then adjust the slack out as I described above. At this point the chain rolls snugly but freely around the bar. Then I tighten the nut pretty tight, and the chain either won't roll at all or is very choppy. Am I overtightening it? I then have to put a little slack in the chain and retighten to get it to roll. Any ideas?

 

[scottr]

OK, since this issue originates from a tension issue, consider this. Is it possible to over-tighten the bar clamp nut? The saw is a Stihl 011AVT.

The reason I ask is, to adjust the chain, I loosen the bar clamp nut (there's only one), then finger-tighten it. Hold the bar nose up, then adjust the slack out as I described above. At this point the chain rolls snugly but freely around the bar. Then I tighten the nut pretty tight, and the chain either won't roll at all or is very choppy. Am I overtightening it? I then have to put a little slack in the chain and retighten to get it to roll. Any ideas?

precaud , I've been down this same road with my Poulan 2000 that has a single bar nut . The worn sprocket is causing the problem . If you could mount the bar without the cover and watch the chain as you slowly rotate the chain you'll see that every time a sprocket tooth rotates to the back the chain will tighten .

 

[RaisedByWolves]

my technique has been to tighten the adjustment until the bottom of the middle of the chain just contacts the bar. How much more do you suggest?

That + 1/4 turn is what oregon recommends.



With new bar/chain/sprocket this works good for me. I change the routine when setting up Old, long or problem bars and chains.

 

[windthrown]

Sprocket/chain wear

precaud , I've been down this same road with my Poulan 2000 that has a single bar nut . The worn sprocket is causing the problem . If you could mount the bar without the cover and watch the chain as you slowly rotate the chain you'll see that every time a sprocket tooth rotates to the back the chain will tighten .

Yep. That's usually the reason for the tight, then not-so-tight. Uneven sprocket wear. Chains can also wear out of round though, like motorcycle chains do. So check that the sprocket is really what is wearing and not the chain, by rotating the sprocket as scottr recommends.

 

[precaud]

OK, I guess it's new sprocket time, then. I'll see if the old ones ride any different then. Thanks for your input.