happens a lot with me, lol. get a saw…runs like crap…clean everything and all good
carbs are the worst culprits on old saws that have sat around for years. Sonic tank is a must.
"You Suck" Thread 2023"--Pics required!
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carbs are the worst culprits on old saws that have sat around for years. Sonic tank is a must.
It's a bit old school, but for £26 ($33) I think I did OK?
A very oily Snap-On CTU4850HO 1/2" impact driver with battery and charger. In good working order. The battery even holds charge.
A very oily Snap-On CTU4850HO 1/2" impact driver with battery and charger. In good working order. The battery even holds charge.
Gratewhitehuntr
Wood and Steel. Yep.
FNG don't know if this thread has a price limit but I made a 250 mile trip on the Goldwing today to get this.
It might have 5 hours, dude's dad was a Stihl dealer, he left this on a shelf when he passed.
Even cleaner than it looks, made in West Germany.
Should I run it? Was considering a ported 72cc Chy-na P&C, and set the factory P&C on the shelf for later
It might have 5 hours, dude's dad was a Stihl dealer, he left this on a shelf when he passed.
Even cleaner than it looks, made in West Germany.
Should I run it? Was considering a ported 72cc Chy-na P&C, and set the factory P&C on the shelf for later
supers are pretty healthy as is
20" wont be workin it much
had 2
20" wont be workin it much
had 2
Score!
My FIL gave me three nice ones, MS241C, MS261C, and I believe a MS361 (badge is missing).
My FIL gave me three nice ones, MS241C, MS261C, and I believe a MS361 (badge is missing).
MS362 I believe, definitely not an MS361.
All three are Mtronic saws, I took the top cover off this afternoon and it’s a 362C.
I’m the most excited about the 241C, they are supposed to rip.
I was able to mess with them some this morning. I don’t know the last time any of them were run any. All 3 started with 3-6 pulls. The 362 choked when I touched the throttle but after restart it ran fine.
I let them idle about 15 seconds before shutting down.
The 362 has the most evidence of being used but isn’t ragged. All 3 need a good cleaning, fresh fuel and filters. I can’t wait to test them out for real.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
FB purchase....
Skil 1661 w/ 30" bar. Bar is original and doesn't look super worn... but very rusty. Seller said saw was put away running several years back.
Popped the muffler off when I got home and looked inside. Piston is pretty scored... hopefully it runs ok... some googling and it is looking even harder to replace than the old homelite 775d piston was.
Homelite Ez (Original 82cc 1956 version) 24" bar similarly good shape but rusty. Saw pretty clean. Seller said this was put away running too. He loved this saw, was clearly excited showing me how clean the decals/paint still were and how old the saw was.
Piston is in good shape on this one.
Homelite 17 22" bar. Recoil broken... saw pretty dirty/rough looking. Seller said it probably wasn't far off being a runner.
Some piston scoring, but not quite as bad as the skil.
Skil 1661 w/ 30" bar. Bar is original and doesn't look super worn... but very rusty. Seller said saw was put away running several years back.
Popped the muffler off when I got home and looked inside. Piston is pretty scored... hopefully it runs ok... some googling and it is looking even harder to replace than the old homelite 775d piston was.
Homelite Ez (Original 82cc 1956 version) 24" bar similarly good shape but rusty. Saw pretty clean. Seller said this was put away running too. He loved this saw, was clearly excited showing me how clean the decals/paint still were and how old the saw was.
Piston is in good shape on this one.
Homelite 17 22" bar. Recoil broken... saw pretty dirty/rough looking. Seller said it probably wasn't far off being a runner.
Some piston scoring, but not quite as bad as the skil.
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sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
So took a better look at the skil 1661...
Tank was clean and emptied... making me think this guy properly put it away, and probably didn't straight gas it or think it was dead when he put it away... so most likely the piston scoring predates him... and that makes me hopeful it actually does run well despite it.
I'll check out the carb and try and start it if I have a chance tomorrow.
Trying to clean up the bar now...
As for the rusty chain... any hope to clean and salvage it or just toss it?
Tank was clean and emptied... making me think this guy properly put it away, and probably didn't straight gas it or think it was dead when he put it away... so most likely the piston scoring predates him... and that makes me hopeful it actually does run well despite it.
I'll check out the carb and try and start it if I have a chance tomorrow.
Trying to clean up the bar now...
As for the rusty chain... any hope to clean and salvage it or just toss it?
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Got the skil 1661 / PM 177 gassed up and no luck starting... literally nothing; even with mix in the throat.
Plug looks fine.
My HOPE is this means he put heavy oil in the carb before putting it up... He did drain the tank really well; so definitely a good chance of that.
So I pulled the carb... good lord this is a bad design carb attachment. You basically have to remove the top end to get the carb off... They run bolts OUT through the carb that mount it to the insulator block... then run bolts IN through the insulator block to mount it; but the heads of these bolts are blocked by the carb body so they can't be undone easily. And because the bolts go OUT instead of IN on the bolts that mount the carb to the insulator block... you CANT remove it from the block the way it pretty clearly was intended to be done... I assume the "correct" way is to remove the trigger grip assembly, disconnect both fuel and primer lines (REALLY hard to do with the carb mounted)... and slide it off the insulator block/carb bolts backwards... but that is a mess. Horrible design.
I managed to wiggle the bolts mounting the insulator to the cylinder out eventually; but the insulator block cracked... so hopefully some high temp adhesive will survive there if I glue it back up.
Intake side of the piston looks fine.
So now my plan is cleaning the carb (and the rest of the saw) and debating if I want to just go ahead and try to pull the piston and use some 600 grit to knock down the high points on the scoring on the exhaust side while I've got the whole thing pulled apart.
Also... the throttle is odd... There's no choke; so the throttle valve is where the choke valve typically is.
Parts of this saw feel really well made; but that Carb mount is a nightmare. And the bar mount bolts are floating, and also hold the dogs on... with one trapped in place by the auto oiler cover so I can't remove the dogs without taking that apart... I can see why this saw was only produced for like 1 yr.
On the other hand... a 95CC saw that weighs more than 3 lbs less than my 900EVL? Would be nice.
In general; I think I'll be able to get it running well; but it's gonna be more work than I thought; and as such I'm really leaning towards taking my time and trying to clean up the piston a bit; do a pressure/vacuum test, etc... really make this the first saw I "fix up" properly and check all the boxes.
edit: Opened up the carb on my lunch. Wasn't too bad inside; but there was definitely some gummy oil/gas residue. Epoxied the insulator back together... hopefully it holds.
Hit the carb with carb cleaner; the rebuild kit should be here in a couple days.
Checked that the primer pump worked... it does.
Checked that the plug gets spark when cord is pulled... it does.
Next steps are cleaning the saw, confirming the fuel line/filter aren't clogged, rebuilding the carb, pulling the top off and polishing off high points on the piston, performing a pressure/vacuum test, then reassembling it... and hopefully it'll run.
Plug looks fine.
My HOPE is this means he put heavy oil in the carb before putting it up... He did drain the tank really well; so definitely a good chance of that.
So I pulled the carb... good lord this is a bad design carb attachment. You basically have to remove the top end to get the carb off... They run bolts OUT through the carb that mount it to the insulator block... then run bolts IN through the insulator block to mount it; but the heads of these bolts are blocked by the carb body so they can't be undone easily. And because the bolts go OUT instead of IN on the bolts that mount the carb to the insulator block... you CANT remove it from the block the way it pretty clearly was intended to be done... I assume the "correct" way is to remove the trigger grip assembly, disconnect both fuel and primer lines (REALLY hard to do with the carb mounted)... and slide it off the insulator block/carb bolts backwards... but that is a mess. Horrible design.
I managed to wiggle the bolts mounting the insulator to the cylinder out eventually; but the insulator block cracked... so hopefully some high temp adhesive will survive there if I glue it back up.
Intake side of the piston looks fine.
So now my plan is cleaning the carb (and the rest of the saw) and debating if I want to just go ahead and try to pull the piston and use some 600 grit to knock down the high points on the scoring on the exhaust side while I've got the whole thing pulled apart.
Also... the throttle is odd... There's no choke; so the throttle valve is where the choke valve typically is.
Parts of this saw feel really well made; but that Carb mount is a nightmare. And the bar mount bolts are floating, and also hold the dogs on... with one trapped in place by the auto oiler cover so I can't remove the dogs without taking that apart... I can see why this saw was only produced for like 1 yr.
On the other hand... a 95CC saw that weighs more than 3 lbs less than my 900EVL? Would be nice.
In general; I think I'll be able to get it running well; but it's gonna be more work than I thought; and as such I'm really leaning towards taking my time and trying to clean up the piston a bit; do a pressure/vacuum test, etc... really make this the first saw I "fix up" properly and check all the boxes.
edit: Opened up the carb on my lunch. Wasn't too bad inside; but there was definitely some gummy oil/gas residue. Epoxied the insulator back together... hopefully it holds.
Hit the carb with carb cleaner; the rebuild kit should be here in a couple days.
Checked that the primer pump worked... it does.
Checked that the plug gets spark when cord is pulled... it does.
Next steps are cleaning the saw, confirming the fuel line/filter aren't clogged, rebuilding the carb, pulling the top off and polishing off high points on the piston, performing a pressure/vacuum test, then reassembling it... and hopefully it'll run.
Recent garage sale treasures:
I'm told the Wright is a runner, but the Remington is a parts saw. I haven't had a chance to investigate them yet. I got both saws and a very rusty double bit axe head for $20. Hope I got my money's worth! O
I'm told the Wright is a runner, but the Remington is a parts saw. I haven't had a chance to investigate them yet. I got both saws and a very rusty double bit axe head for $20. Hope I got my money's worth! O
I had a few saws up for sale. Guy calls and wants to trade a couple of non runners for my 170 Stihl. Uh, ok
He shows up with a 034 super and a 036 pro. Shot 20" bar on one near new 24" Stihl bar on the other...and a new 24" Husky bar.
I figured that was a good trade. Then he offers me $50 as well.
A good day
Both are blown but it looks like it will clean up. The 036 took a hard hit and is a bit wonky
He shows up with a 034 super and a 036 pro. Shot 20" bar on one near new 24" Stihl bar on the other...and a new 24" Husky bar.
I figured that was a good trade. Then he offers me $50 as well.A good day
Both are blown but it looks like it will clean up. The 036 took a hard hit and is a bit wonky
Snojetter
ArboristSite Member
I had a few saws up for sale. Guy calls and wants to trade a couple of non runners for my 170 Stihl. Uh, ok
I'd have made that trade! Good call.
Not sure that this qualifies as a "you suck" given the low quality of the saw. But I snagged it for 99 British pence, that's one US dollar and 13 cents.
It's a clone of a Zenoah G3800. Should make a good beater or loaner saw.
Looks like it was used once or twice and then left out in the sun.
It's complete with an integrated scrench:
It's a clone of a Zenoah G3800. Should make a good beater or loaner saw.
Looks like it was used once or twice and then left out in the sun.
It's complete with an integrated scrench:
Will you repair with Stihl parts? I've had good luck with Meteor parts; Italian...think Ferrari! Half the price of Stihl. OI had a few saws up for sale. Guy calls and wants to trade a couple of non runners for my 170 Stihl. Uh, ok
He shows up with a 034 super and a 036 pro. Shot 20" bar on one near new 24" Stihl bar on the other...and a new 24" Husky bar.
View attachment 1114422View attachment 1114423I figured that was a good trade. Then he offers me $50 as well.
A good day
Both are blown but it looks like it will clean up. The 036 took a hard hit and is a bit wonky
View attachment 1114421
I sold the pair to another old fart saw guy near me. He needed some saws to work on...I didn't
He kinda specializes on that series Stihl and has boxes of oe parts.
He sends me huskys as he only does Stihls. And, he gives me parts he no longer needs. Cool guy...ex F4 Fantom pilot from Vietnam days.
Didn't want to start a thread just for this so I figured I'd ask all you wheelers and dealers in the You Suck thread. What's a rough condition 562xp go for? Top cover busted, recoil cover cracked, looks like it definitely sat in the elements a bit, the top cover is sun faded and looks to have been around moisture judging by the mildew on the top cover. I was offered it by a co worker who claims it runs strong and idles fine. I figured at worst case scenario its a junk pile saw I could try my hand at rebuilding. I was thinking of offering him $150. It looks pretty rough but its not too old it has the 2016 top cover with the cut out.
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just example, recently sold online for 500 bucks, revamped and runs excellent 
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