YouTube live video now, tuning help needed.

[trains]

I just had a thought, maybe it’s the carb?! It was an aftermarket (probs farmer-tech) carb.
Are these Chinese’s carbs known to be temperamental?

I’m going to put the stihl one in and try again and see if it runs again since stripping the saw again. Last time I tried this, I didn’t have the plastic cover on etc.Why I didn’t think about that before I don’t know, I thought it was just my inability to tune or that it was the piston... It could be the carb all along. If it runs fine with the other (stihl) carb, then surly it’s the aftermarket carb that’s the problem... it wouldn’t surprise me that it’s total junk come to think of it...

I’m going to check the height of the metering lever too on the Chinese’s carb while I have it off the saw too as I haven’t checked that.

I have had varying degrees of success with china carbs.
Yes, you need to take it all apart, and go over it with a fine tooth comb, no telling what was done during assembly, assume nothing was done right as a starting point.

You do have the impulse hole in the center of carb mount that usually comes with the brass plug that you have to remove, and to blank off the impulse line to the side with some gorilla snot?

out this morning mate, but will forward my phno to you, and we can go over some things quickly.

T

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

This is what happens when you take a pasty complexion Brit and reinstall them under the hole in the ozone layer............ take them away from their constant overcast natural environment, expose them to some sunlight and they burn like a crisp.

Hahaha!!!! couldn’t agree more, on hot days when I’m out for the day I run from one shade spot to another when I need to get somewhere! (This is no joke I sometimes do this)

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I have had varying degrees of success with china carbs.
Yes, you need to take it all apart, and go over it with a fine tooth comb, no telling what was done during assembly, assume nothing was done right as a starting point.

You do have the impulse hole in the center of carb mount that usually comes with the brass plug that you have to remove, and to blank off the impulse line to the side with some gorilla snot?

out this morning mate, but will forward my phno to you, and we can go over some things quickly.

T

Thanks mate, going live again today so if you are free jump in!!

Yep I removed plug and blocked the other hole!
Tell you what if the stihl carb runs i’ll Send you this one to see if you can figure it out! I’ve taken it apart 3-4 times and not seen anything wrong. I will check the metering lever height though!

All the best mate!

 

[trains]

Metering lever height, condition of diaphragm etc, all come into play, put metering diaphragm from working stihl carb into chonga one.
is the inlet boot, and its corresponding impulse hole sealing at both cyld and carb ?

Could also just be poor manufacture, and debrits from manufacturing/ assembly in where it shouldnt be.

cant comment on facetweet stuff etc will pm

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Metering lever height, condition of diaphragm etc, all come into play, put metering diaphragm from working stihl carb into chonga one.
is the inlet boot, and its corresponding impulse hole sealing at both cyld and carb ?

Could also just be poor manufacture, and debrits from manufacturing/ assembly in where it shouldnt be.

cant comment on facetweet stuff etc will pm

Thanks mate! Diaphragm is all good and the carb holds pressure and vacuum too. It could be a poorly drilled set of jets... Will pm later mate warmest regards, Tom

 

[trains]

anyone who is currently watching his live vid, please tell him to check his private messages, I cant youtube comment,
tearing hair out at the moment

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

New video with stihl non adjustable!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

anyone who is currently watching his live vid, please tell him to check his private messages, I cant youtube comment,
tearing hair out at the moment

Pm replied to mate

Sooooooooo...

Do you guys think it could just be the lack of compression which thus wouldn’t create enough of a vacuum to suck fuel efficiently? When the engine warmed up the compression increased, pulled in more fuel and would run (kinda / poorly though..?)

 

[trains]

Ah my mistake, I now see that the last vid was of you with the working carb off the good 180 you have, I thought you were trying to run the walbro copy carb on it.
Crossed my wires on that one, sorry my bad.

Still I would just drop some fuel down its throat and see if it runs strongly for a second or two, then goes back to not running, that will give you a direction of if you have issues with fuel delivery, ie impulse, or fuel pickup etc, I remember you mentioning it has new filter and fuel pick up hose.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Ah my mistake, I now see that the last vid was of you with the working carb off the good 180 you have, I thought you were trying to run the walbro copy carb on it.
Crossed my wires on that one, sorry my bad.

Still I would just drop some fuel down its throat and see if it runs strongly for a second or two, then goes back to not running, that will give you a direction of if you have issues with fuel delivery, ie impulse, or fuel pickup etc, I remember you mentioning it has new filter and fuel pick up hose.

All good!! Ok mate I won’t take it off just yet and tomorrow will try drop some fuel down the carb I have a small syringe without the needle, that should work perfectly!

 

[trains]

All good!! Ok mate I won’t take it off just yet and tomorrow will try drop some fuel down the carb I have a small syringe without the needle, that should work perfectly!

yep, quick easy way to determine if its fuel or spark etc.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Metering lever height in the Walbro copy adjustable carb is set perfectly, but I will clean it out again as I have it apart, maybe tonight after work.

 

[trains]

squirt of fuel down the carb thats on it, see what it does, and go from there.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

squirt of fuel down the carb thats on it, see what it does, and go from there.

Also going to put the Chinese’s carb into my new 180, if I start with 1 turn out on everything, but that’s not enough, should I turn everything out two turns including the idle? If the H and L get opened / turned to the left, that lets more fuel in, but if I turn the idle left, that closes the butterfly and reduces the air intake at idle, is that correct? I’m guessing that if everything gets turned out one turn and it’s not enough, I should turn everything including the idle two turns? Or just the low and high screw and leave the idle at just one? This is where the confusion starts

 

[trains]

keep it simple.
one to 1.5 on both high and low.
the la or the throttle stop, just enough to move the butterfly off from fully seated.
that should see you close.
get it idling correct first, just mess with the L screw, leave the high alone for now.
once its idling, and crisp off idle,ie no bog, then get out your tach and adjust the high side for 13000/13500.
recheck low and leave it at that.

but first, just hit the troubled one with a bit of fuel and see what happens, dont want to mess up your new saw whilst learing how to dial in a clone walbro carb

lets just do one thing at a time, and dont over think the problem.
and leave your good saw out of the way for now

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

keep it simple.
one to 1.5 on both high and low.
the la or the throttle stop, just enough to move the butterfly off from fully seated.
that should see you close.
get it idling correct first, just mess with the L screw, leave the high alone for now.
once its idling, and crisp off idle,ie no bog, then get out your tach and adjust the high side for 13000/13500.
recheck low and leave it at that.

but first, just hit the troubled one with a bit of fuel and see what happens, dont want to mess up your new saw whilst learing how to dial in a clone walbro carb

lets just do one thing at a time, and dont over think the problem.
and leave your good saw out of the way for now

keep it simple.
one to 1.5 on both high and low.
the la or the throttle stop, just enough to move the butterfly off from fully seated.
that should see you close.
get it idling correct first, just mess with the L screw, leave the high alone for now.
once its idling, and crisp off idle,ie no bog, then get out your tach and adjust the high side for 13000/13500.
recheck low and leave it at that.

but first, just hit the troubled one with a bit of fuel and see what happens, dont want to mess up your new saw whilst learing how to dial in a clone walbro carb

lets just do one thing at a time, and dont over think the problem.
and leave your good saw out of the way for now

Ok mate i’ll do just that! I have ages until the new top end from Farmer Tech arrives so I’m in no rush ha

 

[frank_]

Pm replied to mate

Sooooooooo...

Do you guys think it could just be the lack of compression which thus wouldn’t create enough of a vacuum to suck fuel efficiently? When the engine warmed up the compression increased, pulled in more fuel and would run (kinda / poorly though..?)

the lower piston skirt and bottom half of the bore creates most of the vacuum tom, so you can have ok compression but poor vacuum (and vice versa )

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

the lower piston skirt and bottom half of the bore creates most of the vacuum tom, so you can have ok compression but poor vacuum (and vice versa )

Ahhh thanks for explaining that that makes sense! What are your thoughts? Sorry the videos are quite long!

 

[frank_]

Ahhh thanks for explaining that that makes sense! What are your thoughts? Sorry the videos are quite long!

yes i only skim viewed it tbh
i often wet the air filter with fuel, or remove the fuel pipe to diagnose a fuel issue, bypassing the adjusters and metering so to speak,
and i often drop some oil into the sparkplug hole to diagnose compression/vacuum issues

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

yes i only skim viewed it tbh
i often wet the air filter with fuel, or remove the fuel pipe to diagnose a fuel issue, bypassing the adjusters and metering so to speak,
and i often drop some oil into the sparkplug hole to diagnose compression/vacuum issues

Yes will be trying trains advice with a drop of fuel down the carb!

Now I just have to wait for the new top end from China.. gunna get comfortable on this one, it could take a while...