# FYI - Northern Chainsaw Sharpener



## computeruser

On super sale. Look Here! Looks like it might be the Tecomec 136/Oregon 511A unit, in which case $100 is a freakin' steal.


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## B_Turner

computeruser said:


> On super sale. Look Here! Looks like it might be the Tecomec 136/Oregon 511A unit, in which case $100 is a freakin' steal.



Or maybe a chinese knockoff? Price seems too amazing.


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## computeruser

PEST said:


> Go to the site and download the owners manual and see the one actually on sale.
> 
> Of course it is just an oversight I am certain



Interesting...


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## PES+

computeruser said:


> On super sale. Look Here! Looks like it might be the Tecomec 136/Oregon 511A unit, in which case $100 is a freakin' steal.



Go to the site and download the owners manual and see the one actually on sale.

Of course it is just an oversight I am certain 

Actual unit pictured here
http://www.northerntool.com/download...als/193020.pdf


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## ericjeeper

*It does not say it comes with any cutting disc*

Then they hit you up for 28 bucks.. That seems high..But I am considering ordering one.. and getting disk elsewhere. what are your feelings?


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## PES+

The one in the manual pic is the smaller motor Italian job I had one and was not impressed with it and I don't think it does back angle so only really good for semi chisel


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## PES+

*On further reading*

It does have back angle so it is a different model than the one I had 

thinking about one meself


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## ericjeeper

*you go first..*

let me know.. order it tonight.. pay for the next day air.. so I will know sooner if it is a POS or not.. LOL


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## drogueman

Yea , the real pisser is that I ordered this unit last week at the $229 price and now they knock off $100. I think I will send them a nasty email, i have bought a lot of s#@t off these people ,you would think they would cut me a break.


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## PES+

drogueman said:


> Yea , the real pisser is that I ordered this unit last week at the $229 price and now they knock off $100. I think I will send them a nasty email, i have bought a lot of s#@t off these people ,you would think they would cut me a break.



So how is it?
 
Does the motor stall easily? I am pretty sure that is the smaller motor


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## drogueman

Sorry guys , still waiting for it and it is a Xmas gift from wifey so even if I did get it she wouldn't let me use it, pure torture I tell yea.


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## PES+

ericjeeper said:


> let me know.. order it tonight.. pay for the next day air.. so I will know sooner if it is a POS or not.. LOL



I'm not gonna try it......you try it


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## drogueman

Well i just sent Northern an email begging for the sale price but I am sure they will come up some lame excuse not to give me a $100 credit. I have bought a lot of tools from them so lets just see how they will handle this.


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## RaisedByWolves

Drouge, call them and talk to a person.


I find you can usually talk them into more this way.


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## drogueman

Ok guys here is the skinny on the Northern Tools deal, remember I told you guys I ordered the sharpener last tuesday for the full price of $229. Well yesterday I sent an email to Northern explaining the tool and paying the full price and begged them to give me the sale price, well I got impatiant after getting another sale on my email this morning saying they are giving out gift cards for any purchace over $100 so I called them this morning. After giving them some custermer numbers and catolog numbers they came back on the phone and gave me back $129 credit on my card, wahooo !!! Have a good day !


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## PES+

*Good for you.....and them*

Now both parties are happy. I had hoped Northern would make good as I have had good service from them in the past.


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## tawilson

But we still don't know if it's only worth $80, right?


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## tawilson

drogueman said:


> Sorry guys , still waiting for it and it is a Xmas gift from wifey so even if I did get it she wouldn't let me use it, pure torture I tell yea.


Would she let you open it up and take a picture of it for us?


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## PES+

*Even the smaller motor isn't bad per se*

The less powerful motor actually lessens the chance of burning up the cutters grinding too much too fast. The problem with the one I had the most was no back angle for full chisel. This one has the tilt bed so it looks like it may be a goodun if you don't need to hog out rolled and peened cutters and have a little more time


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## tawilson

Rocked out chains is the main reason I want one. And to occasionally even up the cutters. Other than that I'll stick to hand filing. The picture in the owners manual looks pretty chintsy. That's what backed me off.


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## PES+

*That is what I thought*

But looking closer the main pic and the manual pic may be more paint in difference. If the bed is solid and it holds an angle it might be pretty OK


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## tawilson

Yeah, maybe it's just a lousy pic. I sent an email to Northern asking who makes the grinder and asked about the difference in pics between the manual and their add. Oh, according to what's included, it comes with a disc.


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## tawilson

The response from Northern:
''The vendor is T-Max Industrial Co. and is manufactured in China.''
She also said it is the same picture, and after looking it over closer, I agree. I've ordered from them a half-dozen times or so, and am always satisfied, but I think I'll pass on this. I will send her a thank you for her prompt and curteous reply. I will catch the Oregon one on sale sometime.


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## PES+

*Great research!*

I am sure your research has proven valuable to others as it was quite vauable to me

Thank you!


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## drogueman

I will try to get it open and take a few good pics of this thing so you guys can make a better decision. This will be my first of this type sharpener so I am not sure what you guys are looking for except for a good tight fit and precision in movement. I have always used a file or Dremel tool and i am pretty good at it but just wanted to give this tool a shot, it should be much better than the Harbor freight tool, lol. I should get this thing by tomorrow so keep a look out for some pics.


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## drogueman

Ok guys I got the Northern chain sharpener today with one minor draw-back, one of three of the stones was broken as you will see in the pics if I get them loaded. The tool looks very stout and is all metal body. I needs to be assembled but that will have to wait.I hope the pics will help you guys make up your mind on a purchase. I will deal with the costumer service about the broken stone.


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## drogueman

just a few more pics


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## Kenskip1

*Sharpener Harbor Freight*

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93213


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## DOLMARatOs

THe harbor freight sharpeners are pretty much crap as I have seen. The construction doesn't hold an angle well if you lean too hard or not hard enough.

Check out eBay for deals on OREGON grinders. I ordered (4) of the Northern Tool grinders. I plan to keep 1 for doing depth guages and offer the others to my logger buddies for x-mas presents. A cheap grinder might not be worth buying, but it is definately worth using if it's a gift.

I'll keep ya posted on how well they work. I just happen to have some of the OREGON grinders in my shop. I'll do a side-by-side comparison right down to the thickness of hardware.


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## stihl025

Now you went and did it... After seeing the pics from the Northern Tool grinder, I want one just because of the metal construction. 

I have a Harbor Freight grinder and as DOLMARatOs stated, they are cheaply made. BUT, if you have a little patience and some imagination, the Harbor Freight grinder can become something useful. 

I found the hinge to be sloppy and would not keep a precise angle on the cutters. The clamp was too wide (for most of my applications) and failed to hold the chain securely in the vise. And the wheel arbor is made of plastic and only pressure fitted onto the motor arbor (which resulted in the wheel sliding away from and off of the motor arbor). 

I made some improvements to mine. I tapped the motor arbor and the plastic wheel arbor is now held in place by a washer and bolt. The plastic hinge holes were drilled out and fitted with brass bushings, and the hingle bolt was replaced by a longer 3/8" hex bolt that now is very precise. And lastly, the chain clamp was fitted with thinner washers to make a tighter fit on the chain (that I mostly use). 

These improvements are not much, but they have created a totally different breed of machine. The grinder works so much better than when first tested on an old chain. The angles are near perfect and provide an even grind every time now. 

Just some food for thought for those with tight budgets. If I had a picture account thingy, I could post some pics. Anyway, I figured if I sharpened 9 chains with it, I got my money back out of it.


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## DOLMARatOs

Yup. With a little thought and some elbow grease, any piece of junk can be a jewel. I have modified many of HB tools to fit my needs. 

I will keep y'all posted on the Northern grinders. The power difference in the motor was less than 5o or 60 watts to the OREGON 511A. I'll take some side by sides. If all the parts interchange I think I'll sell my older 511A and use the Northern unit for small chain and depth guages.

I can always dump them on ebay if they don't live up to my expectations, but I haven't seen anything that bad from NT or HF. Just have to wait till the sale is over to drop them on the bay.


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## ericjeeper

*Looked over an Oregon grinder today*

I was installing windows in a fellows Garage today and noticed he had an oregon grinder hanging from the wall.I noticed it was made of a plastic framework., and it looks a lot like the one I am fixing to order from Northern.
Its only money.. can't take it with us.. andI have found that, I do get to keep it longer if I do not answer the phone when the bill collectors calls. LOL


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## drogueman

I have an update on the broken grinding disk I got with my new chain sharpener.I called costumer service and they said because it was made in Japan it would take 3 to 4 months to get a new disk. So now the whole thing will be mailed back to Northern and a new one will be sent as I speak. They will have UPS stop by and pick up my first one. It is just plain bad luck that the disk was broken, by the way the box looked like UPS was a little ruff with the shipping. So far Northern has done good with my sale credit and return.


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## RaisedByWolves

UPS rough with a package? C'Mon theyd never.



On a related note, I wonder if Northern has a scratch and dent department?


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## tawilson

What size disks were they?


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## drogueman

Sorry Tom I don't remember the sizes but I did write the broken one down, I just have to find the paper I wrote it on, It was very thin. I already boxed up the sharpener for UPS to pick up tomorrow.


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## tawilson

That's alright. I've waffled and almost ordered this a couple of times. If it came with the 3/16" disks I'd go for it. Doesn't sound like it. Maybe I'll email Northern again.


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## ericjeeper

*Mine should be here Monday*

Hopefully not damaged in shipping. It is to muddy here to even get to a treetop to cut wood. and all my chains are sharp from filing.. Might just tune up my 20 inch chain a bit and go grab a few of dads


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## SmokinDodge

You guys have to quit doing this! It starts with saws, I had three when I joined and now have ten. Then a peavey, now a mill and bigger saw have caught my eye. The list goes on but I digress....................


Ok I feel better, thanks for listening.



Now where is that order form.................................


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## SmokinDodge

Merry Christmas to me, Merry Christmas to me in 5 -7 days!


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## DOLMARatOs

Got the northern grinder today. Exact Chinese duplicate of a 511a. Right down to the size of the hardware. Exact. Sounds nice, comes with 1/8. 3/16, 1/4 wheels. Work light is good. Whole unit seems to be worth the 229.00 they sell them for. For $100.00 it's a steal. FYI.


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## SmokinDodge

DOLMARatOs said:


> Got the northern grinder today. Exact Chinese duplicate of a 511a. Right down to the size of the hardware. Exact. Sounds nice, comes with 1/8. 3/16, 1/4 wheels. Work light is good. Whole unit seems to be worth the 229.00 they sell them for. For $100.00 it's a steal. FYI.




Thank you for the report. I can stop being nervous now. I can start being excited.

What is the best tool to use to profile the wheel?


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## tawilson

Alright, I ordered one too. I wonder why their grinding wheels are so expensive? Maybe it's a 3-pack.


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## DOLMARatOs

Just oreder the OREGON wheels. They are higher quality. Use a dressing block to shape the wheels. THese are available from any oregon dealer but there are very few that will stock them. Takes a couple days to get.


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## tawilson

I was talking about the Oregon wheels that Northern sells. $27.99 and weighs 4 lbs. which is why I was thinking it was a three pack. They call it a stone instead of a wheel or disk. Maybe I'll email them again. They do get back to me fast.


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## DOLMARatOs

IF they aren't selling more than 1 wheel, then that price is not a very good one at all.


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## RaisedByWolves

SmokinDodge said:


> I had three when I joined and now have ten.......





You only have ten saws 




I may just order one of these, is it reversable?


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## 314epw

*wheels*

Becareful when ordering wheels from a different manufacture.Check the diameter!Some wheels are 1/8" larger.Won't fit in wheel housing on some models.
Ed


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## Freakingstang

RaisedByWolves said:


> is it reversable?




Well...The suspense is killing me...IS IT?

I have waited to order one. I would like a reversible one. I realize they don't come with the reverse switch, but being an electrician, I think I can figure it out...lol


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## drogueman

I justed wanted to let you guys know I got my second Chain saw sharpener today and everything seems to be fine except for a few scratches here and there. They sure didn't pack this thing very well from the factory, everything was rubbing together causing abasions and scratches which I can live with. The box with the three disk in it was at the bottom with everything on top of it, I thought they were broken again because the box was beat up and smashed down on the coners, The disk were ok. The whole box the sharpener came in was also beat up and had to be taped up, man , UPS is ruff. I plan on putting it together in just a few minutes, hope there is nothing missing. 
Hay FreakingStang, I hope you come up with a mode to run that sharpener in reverse and post it step-by-step, I am sure there were a lot of us that bought this thing. Have a good one.


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## ericjeeper

*Mine will be here tomorrow.*

I was really hoping it would show up today. I had a free day today. Tomorrow I have to put in some windows to pay for my toys..
There was already a wiring diagram somewhere here lately about a 4 position switch. Maybe it will apply to this grinder too?


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## woodchux

Has anybody sharpened a chain with one of these yet ? How did the sharpener perform? 
Is the hinge on it tight? or sloppy like the harborfreight junk?
I'm thinkin about ordering one myself, but wanted to hear a review first.


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## SmokinDodge

RaisedByWolves said:


> You only have ten saws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may just order one of these, is it reversable?



RBW I fixed my problem, I bought 12 homelite's one mac and one to be determined the other day. Now to get them all in to shape......................

I plan on it being able to reverse. Some one said it is an exact duplicate of the 511, which with the addition of a DPPT switch is revesible. 

If it doesn't work out no sweat, just hit the one side with a file and be done. At least this way I'm just like everybody else


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## ericjeeper

*well My grinder arrived today*

And just as my luck goes.. The guard casting was broken. I will call em tomorrow and tell em to send someone to pick it up. Poor packing job on all accounts.I could Jb weld it together.. But I bought a new product not a Broken one....


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## drogueman

Eric, sorry you have to send it back, as you know I had to send my sharpener back also because it had a broken disk. I agree it is poor packing on the manufacture and Northern and UPS needs to lighten up on the ruff house stuff. My second sharpener came the other day and as I said the box was so beat up I was totaly surprised the disk or something else wasn't broken. Now all I have to do is figure out how to use it, never had one of these things before and there are lots of ajustments. I hope you get your second one real soon, my tool didn't take long at all. Good luck !!!


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## ericjeeper

*Northern should inspect these before they ship*

Then they would know whether it is UPS or the ship from China.
Maybe they should double box them? seems a few bucks spent on packaging would beat paying ups twice.


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## stckciv

I wouldnt worry about the wheel being broke, I would put a diamond or borzon wheel on for sharpening anyway. I only use the other wheel to take the guides down.


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## olyman

stckiv--where to get the diamond wheels??? and freaking--please post a diag off how to rewire for reverse--we shall see---


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## tawilson

*Got mine today*

Put on a chain I'd stuck in the dirt or cut some dead oak with or did something to scorch it. I've never seen a grinder before except for pics so feel free to critique. I'm satisfied with the results, but I'll know more after putting the metal to the wood.


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## drogueman

Excelent, glad to here someone used the machine and is satisfied with it so far. I still have to wait until Xmas to use mine. I may need some help setting up all those little nobby gagets. I guess all we need now is someone to get it to run in reverse.


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## jensen 32000

UPS = Uniteded Parcel Smashers


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## p38lightning

drogueman said:


> Excelent, glad to here someone used the machine and is satisfied with it so far. I still have to wait until Xmas to use mine. I may need some help setting up all those little nobby gagets. I guess all we need now is someone to get it to run in reverse.



Mine is sitting in a box under the tree. This waiting is killing me!


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## Haywire Haywood

I held off and held off for 5 pages of you guys talking about this... and yet the sale goes on. I kept telling myself that the HF grinder was fine. Well, I broke down and ordered one this morning. It's got to hold an angle better than the plastic framed HF.

Ian


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## tawilson

Seeing as it's identical to the Oregon grinder, I downloaded their owners manual, it is more detailed and has more pictures.


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## drogueman

Tom,
Can you please send me the link to the manual so I can download it and start reading how to run this contraption, lol. Looks like a few of us have to suffer and wait until after Xmas,it is killing me.


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## danl

Just ordered one of em. Went back and added 1.99 bicycle hooks to order to get 10.00 gift card. 
I have a Nick the Grinder, but all the plastic made it not be consistent, so we will see how this does.
Arboristsite has caused me to spend a lot of money
Dan


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## olyman

tom--61 pages of that pdf manual---holy smolely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## MS-310

I want one but I never used an grinder.... What is the reverse for? Umm is it hard? can I use full chisle chain and its 3/8 pitch... Im scared to buy one with out know what to do. But I guess that is what your guys are here for!
Help thanks


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## gatkeper1

The Oregon 511 manual is on the accessories page.
http://www.oregonchain.com/accessories.htm

use "save target as" to download it


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## gatkeper1

MS-310 said:


> I want one but I never used an grinder.... What is the reverse for? Umm is it hard? can I use full chisle chain and its 3/8 pitch... Im scared to buy one with out know what to do. But I guess that is what your guys are here for!
> Help thanks


All of life is a learning experience. We all had to learn to walk. when we fell we got up.
If you grind a tooth or two wrong you will do it over.
I never had a grinder before, I never even sharpend my own chains. My brother worked in a repair shop and always did them.
My Northern Grinder came yesterday, as soon as I get it set up I will be ruining a few chains I'm sure.
Full chisel chain , Yes, but round ground not the square grind chain


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## Butch(OH)

computeruser said:


> On super sale. Look Here! Looks like it might be the Tecomec 136/Oregon 511A unit, in which case $100 is a freakin' steal.



Thanks one heck of a lot for posting this and you others for going on about it. I just placed and order. $108 to my door, guess I better go burry some chains in the dirt in prepperation for its arrival, LOL


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## tawilson

olyman said:


> tom--61 pages of that pdf manual---holy smolely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Yeah, but half are French. Here's a link to a free pdf file reader that is a lot less of a resource hog than Adobe Acrobat reader.
http://www.foxitsoftware.com/
The reverse is so you can grind into the cutter and not leave a burr on the outside of it. I figure that burr will be gone after a couple trips through the log. We'll see.
Also a thank you to computeruser and everybody else's feedback. I've been waffling on this grinder deal for a couple of years, this gave me an opportunity to check it out without spending $300. I was afraid any less, and I'd be getting a piece of junk.


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## RaisedByWolves

MS-310 said:


> I want one but I never used an grinder.... What is the reverse for? Umm is it hard? can I use full chisle chain and its 3/8 pitch... Im scared to buy one with out know what to do. But I guess that is what your guys are here for!
> Help thanks





You could close your eyes and do a better job than my local shop.


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## ericjeeper

*well Northern finally packed one right*

This time Northern put the factory box in another box and packed it like it was fragile.
I got it all set up and ground three chains..I like grinding skip tooth chains.. what?about 1/3 as many teeth.
The finish is decent on the machine.The hinge is tight, but you can flex it if you try.Just pull down square with the hinge and it works without a hitch.
I bought a husky square filed factory chain today for 13 bucks.I am going to sit and study sometime to see if that cut can be replicated, by dressing a wheel to an angle rather than to round. I figure buy a spare wheel to just use on flat.
worth a shot for the few bucks a wheel cost.


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## tawilson

I just sharpened a couple more chains. Definitely better this time, didn't waste so much chain. The chain kept snagging, and I noticed the back of the vise was spreading letting the chain slide in, so I found a machine screw and locknut and used a hole which was already there. Worked fine then. It's real hard to turn the vise from one side to the other. Might have to find a spot to squirt some lube in.
For all you guys that haven't got it yet, or have to wait for Xmas, I'm just showing off now.:rockn:


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## ericjeeper

*Tom*

Mine came with a screw and two jambing nuts in that hole.. simply ran it up against the back of the vise and jammed the nut.
My dad is going to bring me ahnadful of chains to play with. I will probably grab up a bigger handful of chains from the loggers tomorrow or Monday.They handfile in the woods. so I am sure their chains could use a tuning. I probably should read the instructions before I do to many. I am grinding at 35 degrees, with a 50 degree down swing.. 
Is that anywhere close on the downswing part?It quite nicely resembled the factory grinds on my new chains.


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## tawilson

There's a chart in the manual which gives you the settings for different types of chains. My vise has(had) two empty holes to the left of the left jambing nut. Thats where it spread and let the chain slip down. I see there are two holes to the left of the right jambing nut also. Must be so you can move the vise to the right if you want.


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## danl

tawilson said:


> Yeah, but half are French. Here's a link to a free pdf file reader that is a lot less of a resource hog than Adobe Acrobat reader.
> http://www.foxitsoftware.com/
> The reverse is so you can grind into the cutter and not leave a burr on the outside of it. I figure that burr will be gone after a couple trips through the log. We'll see.
> Also a thank you to computeruser and everybody else's feedback. I've been waffling on this grinder deal for a couple of years, this gave me an opportunity to check it out without spending $300. I was afraid any less, and I'd be getting a piece of junk.



Tom I just installed Foxit and it is unbelievably faster than adobe. THANKS
Can I have my computer automatically download to Foxit without removing Adobe? My POS (point of sale- not the other meaning -although it does sometimes apply) system at work uses Adobe for many reports so I don't think I can remove it.
Also exactly what does dressing the wheel do for you ?
Thanks
Dan


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## tawilson

Yes you can. Right click on a file you want it to open, choose "open with", then click "choose program, then choose Foxit and check the box to use it to always open this type of file. Maybe you knew all that, but what the heck.
I found this morning that after a few chains the wheel looses its shape, just use the block to round the edge of it again. There's a gauge included for that. Also, according to the directions, the wheel you use for your depth gauges needs to be made flat and parallel with the vice. Also use the block. Maybe others here that have used a grinder more than the 5 chains I've done so far have different experiences.


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## ericjeeper

*Did seven chains for the logger.*

some were pretty well used up. They take longer as you have to watch the paw and not grind into it.
He just left here with them in hand to see if they will cut anything..I think he was suprised that they were not blue..LOL
I have spent my entire adult life as a carpenter, I have sharpened many saws.chisels, and god knows how many knives.So I do understand the sharpenning process.
Everyone has made such an issue about reversing the motor.I am going to leave mine throwing the chips away from me as I have it mounted very high,shoulder height.
I took the thick disc and made it flat. figure I can change the setup to file the rakers.after I have ground a few chains for sharp.
Overall feel is I done good.For 108 bucks 
If I was to have charged him I would have had a third of the cost paid for..


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## danl

*It sounds like so far they are working out fine.
Kind of anxious to get mine. Hope it is in one piece, maybe by buying something else they will put both items in one safer box.
I keep expecting someone to tell us they are a total piece of doggy doo!!!!

Dan*


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## RaisedByWolves

OK, Im oficially on the band wagon now, havent discussed wether I have to wait till crimmas to open it or not.


Probably wont take me long to figure out how to get it reversable.


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## tawilson

And you'll be getting a $10 gift certificate in the mail in a few days. I got one even tho my total was a penny short of $100. But my wife tossed it out in a cleaning frenzy.:bang: I was thinking about using it to buy another one, to leave set up for rakers, and get a spare wheel in the process.


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## p38lightning

I have to sit and stare at mine under the Christmas tree. I may order a few more myself. I wonder how long they will be available at this price?


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## DOLMARatOs

I've got mine set up to do depth guages. Works excellent but i'm using 511A wheels.

I bought 4 total for christmas presents, although I have no friends that have saws. HAHAHA.

BUY AT LEAST 10 OF THEM IF YOU CAN!

They are a really good copy and work great if you are careful. Just like any grinder, technique and patience is required. 

My $0.02


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## RaisedByWolves

tawilson said:


> And you'll be getting a $10 gift certificate in the mail in a few days. I got one even tho my total was a penny short of $100. But my wife tossed it out in a cleaning frenzy.:bang: I was thinking about using it to buy another one, to leave set up for rakers, and get a spare wheel in the process.





Tom, I could have sworn you looked like Brad Pitt earlier?





But yeah, the coupon thing is cool! Like I need another reason to peruse the catalog.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Freakingstang

DOLMARatOs said:


> I've got mine set up to do depth guages. Works excellent but i'm using 511A wheels.
> 
> I bought 4 total for christmas presents, although I have no friends that have saws. HAHAHA.
> 
> BUY AT LEAST 10 OF THEM IF YOU CAN!
> 
> They are a really good copy and work great if you are careful. Just like any grinder, technique and patience is required.
> 
> My $0.02




Got to be better than the HF cheapo I have now...I need something to square up chains and set the depth gauges. This should work a tad better than what I currently have. Should be here at the end of the week... :biggrinbounce2: 

how much do the 511A wheels Run normally? i'll check bailey's when I have more time.


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## tawilson

RaisedByWolves said:


> Tom, I could have sworn you looked like Brad Pitt earlier?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, the coupon thing is cool! Like I need another reason to peruse the catalog.:hmm3grin2orange:


Yeah, I didn't have my glasses on in the other pic. Amazing how it changes my looks, ain't it.


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## Haywire Haywood

I had thought about buying a few and then ebaying them after the sale goes off.

Ian


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## drmiller100

today is last day of hte sale......


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## woodchux

I ordered mine today.

Is the 10* offset necessary if you're not using full chisel chain? 

Should it be used on semi chisel chain?


----------



## MS-310

I could try to find out but do they do paypal...???? I mite be dumb so be nice


----------



## DOLMARatOs

Haywire Haywood said:


> I had thought about buying a few and then ebaying them after the sale goes off.
> 
> Ian



I had the same thought. I bought a few extra for sale in my shop but I plan to drop them on eBay. Nothing wrong with a free enterprise system.

How did you find out it was the last day of the sale?


----------



## drmiller100

oops!!!
today is the last day for the gift certificate.

sorry bout that!


----------



## tawilson

Wonder what the difference between this sharpening stone:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...tomer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Product Page
and this sharpening wheel:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...tomer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Product Page
are, besides ten bucks.


----------



## spacemule

tawilson said:


> Wonder what the difference between this sharpening stone:
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...tomer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Product Page
> and this sharpening wheel:
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...tomer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Product Page
> are, besides ten bucks.


The $27 is listed as 4 lbs., the other one 1 lb. I'll bet the expensive one is a 3 pack.


----------



## gatkeper1

tawilson said:


> Wonder what the difference between this sharpening stone:
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...tomer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Product Page
> and this sharpening wheel:
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...tomer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Product Page
> are, besides ten bucks.



If you look at the description of the item it tells you what grinders the less expensive wheel is for.
They fit the bar mounted and mini grinders that use the 4 1/8" wheels.
I guess the idea of listing the diameter of the wheels eluded them at Northern.


----------



## MS-310

I wounder how long it will be on sale for... Im hoping till thursday so my e-bay money gets in my checking.


----------



## woodchux

Cutters choice has sharpening wheels for $10.95
I think they fit?
http://www.cutterschoice.com/cgi-bin/store/cutters.cgi?cur=usd&s=&s_man_oem=&s_keywords=47133


----------



## Lakeside53

woodchux said:


> I ordered mine today.
> 
> Is the 10* offset necessary if you're not using full chisel chain?
> 
> Should it be used on semi chisel chain?




Stilh USG grinders use a 15 degree back/front offset for all their current chains, Semi chisel or Full chisel. Not sure if the geometry is the same as the tec/oregon, but..


----------



## Rspike

*Fyi:*

Called Northern Tools and they said the sale runs from Wednesday midnight to Wednesday midnight ( 1 week ) so the sale will end Wednesday midnight or if still on sale after said time then it will be on for another week .
They didnt know for how many total weeks it would run.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

woodchux said:


> Cutters choice has sharpening wheels for $10.95
> I think they fit?





Cutter's Choice said:


> Fits Laser "Jolly", "Super Jolly", Bellsaw 8800, Windsor 880, *Oregon 511A*, Oregon 109179




Since the Northern Tool grinder is a copy of the 511, they should fit fine.

Ian


----------



## Uwharrie

Just in case you are looking for the best wheels available, the Oregon ones are the only ones our shop uses. We have tried many different ones over the years and there's a lot of guys selling some but to date I have not found any that sharpen as good as the Oregon ones. They are not the least expensive but I feel they are the best. We sell the same ones as northern but our price is less. The $27 one
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_53987_53987?cm_sp=Customer%20driven-_-Recently%20Viewed-_-Product%20Page 
from Northern is the one you will need for these grinders. It is one wheel. If you check our price we sell the exact same one for $19.95. http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Oregon_3_16_Stone_p/oregon%20or534-316a.htm
Of course I'm only giving this as reference because you guys buy what you want.


----------



## Big Woody

Thats pretty high for a single wheel


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Dont be fooled by price.



I work with grinding wheels every day and theres wheels that work well and theres wheels that last long.



What you want in a grinding wheel is a combination of both qualitys erring on the side of duribility.


Heres the issue.


Wheels tend to "Pack up" with metal as you use them, this is why they need to be dressed occasionally providing a new, clean surface to grind with.


The harder the wheel is, the longer it will last. Also The harder it is the faster it will "Pack up" due to the fact that it is not breaking down as a softer wheel will. A 'Packed" wheel causes heat due to the material its packed with (metal) rubbing on the material your trying to cut,(metal).

This means you need to dress it to prevent it from burning your cutters.


But you might think, why not just buy the softer wheel and let it break down and not have to worry about dressing it? (afterall, your loosing wheel for nothing by dressing it, right?)


Well, OK, this makes sense until you have an understanding of what happens when a wheel bearks down. (Wait here, I need a beer for this.)











OK....

When the wheel is freshly dressed its fairly "True", meaning round and with a proper radius/angle/square face. And it will stay this way for a while, but eventuially it will become distorted somewhat. this can be caused by bumping the work a lil too hard or a tooth shifting upon contact or whatever.



When this happens the wheel starts to look like a slightly flat tire, ie its not round anymore. This out of round condition causes the wheel to loose contact with the work on every rotation, remember how this whole thing got started? 

_The wheel bumped the work._


Well the wheel is now bumping into the work with every revolution, and every time it bumps the work it gets a lil more damaged. This process creaps its way around the wheel until it gets to where it started and simply continues to chip away at the wheel in tiny increments.


This happens much faster with a soft wheel than it does with a hard wheel.



Youll actually loose 2-3 times as much wheel through it breaking down on the work than if you dressed it for every chain you sharpened.





Better wheels are just better.


----------



## SmokinDodge

Rspike said:


> Called Northern Tools and they said the sale runs from Wednesday midnight to Wednesday midnight ( 1 week ) so the sale will end Wednesday midnight or if still on sale after said time then it will be on for another week .
> They didnt know for how many total weeks it would run.



That's clear as mud. The sale will run until the third Tuesday of next week. But the day after that there will be a special from Noon to 12.

I called them last week and they couldn't tell me how long it would last. I asked if it would run through Christmas and he said "Oh no not near that long." I then said "I thought you didn't know long long it would last?"

I hate talking to people on the phone. I ordered three tonight as gifts and the sale continues.


----------



## Kenskip1

Sharpener, I called the number and spoke to the person on the other end. She told me that they have 331 of them left and they will be the same price until february. Then the new shipment will be in and they will be even cheaper, Ken


----------



## Haywire Haywood

and then in March, HF will start carrying them for $29.99.  

Ian


----------



## danl

RaisedByWolves said:


> Dont be fooled by price.
> 
> 
> This means you need to dress it to prevent it from burning your cutters.
> 
> 
> RaisedByWolves said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thats just great, according to my wife, I can't dress myself right, now I have to dress a grinder
> 
> If UPS tracking is right, mine should be on my doorstep shortly.
> It will just have to sit there till after 4:00 though.
> 
> Dan
Click to expand...


----------



## Butch(OH)

Boys, 
When all you'ens get to grinding up your chains with all these new chain grinders all the chain factorys is going to need a third shift pronto.

I bought me some Oregon stock, Carton stock and Stihl stock this morning and I am go'en to cash inopcorn:


----------



## Oregon Engineer

After you all open your Christmas presents and start sharping chain with the Northern Tool grinder, I like to hear:
1) how consistant the angles are in the same chain. Especially right to left hand.
2) if the motor keeps speed during normal grinding without slowing or stalling.
3) how easy is it to use and set the chain sharpening angles.
4) any comments you have to add, both the good and the bad - Give it a fair "first use" evaluation.

Later (6-8 months) I'll post a thread to see how the grinders hold up in the short term. 

There is a "Northern Tool 511A knock off" in the test lab for evaluation and I'd like to compare your comments and observations to our lab findings.


----------



## spacemule

Oregon Engineer said:


> After you all open your Christmas presents and start sharping chain with the Northern Tool grinder, I like to hear:
> 1) how consistant the angles are in the same chain. Especially right to left hand.
> 2) if the motor keeps speed during normal grinding without slowing or stalling.
> 3) how easy is it to use and set the chain sharpening angles.
> 4) any comments you have to add, both the good and the bad - Give it a fair "first use" evaluation.
> 
> Later (6-8 months) I'll post a thread to see how the grinders hold up in the short term.
> 
> There is a "Northern Tool 511A knock off" in the test lab for evaluation and I'd like to compare your comments and observations to our lab findings.


Is the 511a copy legal?


----------



## Haywire Haywood

spacemule said:


> Is the 511a copy legal?



You can bet if it weren't, Oregon would have Northern Tool's guts for garters on very short notice.

Ian


----------



## tawilson

I picked up my new 441 today, so took it and my husky 61 with a newly ground chain to see how well I did. I'm happy, seemed to cut well, straight and with good size chips. I didn't have a depth gauge so I had just eyeballed the rakers. For a hoot, I stuck a new chain in the grinder and set the angles per the chart, and the wheel seemed to fit in nice and snug. I didn't try the other side, but will when I have a magnifying glass.
It does seem hard to rotate and angle the vise. I shot some lube on it, but didn't seem to help much.
The wheels seem pretty soft to me. Keep in mind this is my first experience with a grinder. I will be replacing it with Oregon wheels when necessary.


----------



## ericjeeper

*Just need to wear the paint off*

Mine was stiff at first but after about 20 chains it moves fine.. Just had to get the paint wore off the top of the casting.


----------



## Oregon Engineer

The Northern Tool version of the grinder was not approved by OREGON. The company making the grinder for Northern Tool has reverse engineered it (Chinese design philosophy of measuring and copying). 

The appearance looks good, but the difference in quality is judged by the materials and tolerances.

Tawilson - We had the same issue with the vise rubbing against the plate marking the angle.


----------



## SmokinDodge

[email protected] said:


> Sharpener, I called the number and spoke to the person on the other end. She told me that they have 331 of them left and they will be the same price until february. Then the new shipment will be in and they will be even cheaper, Ken



Well, someone must have bought 329 of them today. I ordered three last night as gifts and got an e-mail today saying they were on back order.

What number did you call?


----------



## DOLMARatOs

That was me....sorry. LOL J/k

Nothing wrong with a cheapo knock off, but i still have 2 of the real deals in my shop just in case.


----------



## danl

*Angle*

I can't figure out how to set the 10 deg. angle.
It also says to dress the wheel to the desired shape. I don't know what shape I desire. 
I didn't have much time to mess with it last night, UPS was running kind of late.
I guess I could look at the Oregon manual for more instructions, but I would feel sort of guilty using their instructions. But I guess I shouldn't. I have lots of Oregon chains, files, sprockets, bars, weed eater string etc.

Dan


----------



## Butch(OH)

danl said:


> I can't figure out how to set the 10 deg. angle.
> It also says to dress the wheel to the desired shape. I don't know what shape I desire.
> I didn't have much time to mess with it last night, UPS was running kind of late.
> I guess I could look at the Oregon manual for more instructions, but I would feel sort of guilty using their instructions. But I guess I shouldn't. I have lots of Oregon chains, files, sprockets, bars, weed eater string etc.
> 
> Dan



My vise wouldn't tilt (the 10 angle) or swivel due to rough surfaces. Take a look at the thread I started about fixing the grinder. http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40844
The balls center it and 10 is the mark either side. When tilting always tilt the pointed side of the cutter down. This replicates the angle you get by holding your file handle down 10 when hand filing.


Oops forgot, the various desired stone contours are on a template shipped with the grinder, at least was with mine along with a carbide stick to dress the wheel. From my other post, a picture. Look at the top of this picture and in the baggie you will see the bottom edge of the profile gauge and the dressing stic.
<IMG SRC=http://tinypic.com/2ltke8p.jpg>


----------



## danl

Thanks Butch
A picture really is worth a thousand words. A digital one must be worth 10 thousand.
Dan


----------



## Sparky_NY

Even though out of stock, I order one today. I have the HF cheapie but this appears to be far superior and although it may take a while to get, at least its still at the $99 sale price.


----------



## DOLMARatOs

Luckily, I managed to get 4 of them with my first plowing paycheck when the thread first started. I am impressed but have yet to put one into permanent service. I'm more than happy with my current grinder situation so these will be "extras". Or I might wait till the NH sale is over and they are back to their normal price and make a few bucks to have on of the PRO's fully mod a 7900 or 5100S for my shop Demo unit HaHaHa. Now all of us AS guys have depleted the stock.

Then again, I sold 60 of the 511A grinders on eBay. Right now the best going price of OREGON 511A grinders is $289.00 with free shipping. A long ways from $100.00 for the NH unit. I like both units. I prefer the 511a over the knock-off but the NH grinder is easy to love at the price. It's like buying a Pull-On to use and abuse because 100 bux is a days pay.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

I put mine to use today and screwed up one chain to the point that it would only produce dust. This thing has more adjustments than the HF :help: I failed to adjust vise tilt angle to the 10deg angle on a chain that needed it. I thought the grind looked odd, but what the heck, let's go cut wood. All I made was powder and heat. Lucky for me I only sharpened one of my chains and had others to use. When I got back I read the destructions and tried it again. Looks like it should and works great now. Nice chips.

Ian


----------



## Sparky_NY

Haywire Haywood said:


> I put mine to use today and screwed up one chain to the point that it would only produce dust. This thing has more adjustments than the HF :help: I failed to adjust vise tilt angle to the 10deg angle on a chain that needed it. I thought the grind looked odd, but what the heck, let's go cut wood. All I made was powder and heat. Lucky for me I only sharpened one of my chains and had others to use. When I got back I read the destructions and tried it again. Looks like it should and works great now. Nice chips.
> 
> Ian



Yep, not going to work for you.... you should sell it to me. LOL


----------



## Freakingstang

Well mine came in yesterday while I was gone....It is missing a couple pieces..

Actually it is missing alot. The base and top piece are there, but there are no gaurds, hardware or grinding wheels with it. How many wheels came with your guy's grinders? I'll have to call them on monday. The box was a little beat up and the mounting holes look like they've had bolts in them once before... I wonder If I got a returned, used grinder???

Anywho, it looks like a nicely made unit, well at least what is there.

So has anyone found out if the motor is reversible yet?


----------



## tawilson

Three wheels, 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4. Thats too bad. My shipping box was beat, but everything was there. Sounds like they've had enough returned that they could make up a whole kit for you. Or just send you an Oregon to make up for it.


----------



## ericjeeper

*They will second day air you one*

Give them a call as soon as possible Monday. Ask them to open the next unit inspect it and double box it..They did that on my second grinder. My third came just single boxxed but unharmed.
I am going to go use mine..Just to dress up the chain is was trenching with yesterday.. I mean cutting with. LOL

I am amazed at how well these dudes sharpen up a chain. I always said I would rather file one for touch up. But I have found I can just barely skim the tooth with the wheel and put an excellent edge back on it.


----------



## p38lightning

Mine came double boxed. It seems they have had alot of shipping problems with these which I think is just being lazy or cheap. By the time they have to pay UPS twice, one would think they have lost anything they have saved.
I guess I got lucky, nothing is broken or missing though I haven't got to use it yet.


----------



## olyman

freaking--asking us if its reversible--and your the resident electrician???? help man---


----------



## 04ultra

What a bargain there on ebay marked up..  


http://cgi.ebay.com/CHAINSAW-SHARPE...8QQihZ020QQcategoryZ85915QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



.


----------



## ericjeeper

*my setup*

Here is my setup. The grinder is removable by simply pulling the 2x6 out of the slotfor storage..in the off season.. (whenever that is)The grinder is at shoulder height.. I see no reason to bend over to see what I am doing. We have over 600 treetops laying on the ground from recent logging activity..Anyone from Indiana needing some free firewood.. You cut of course.....


----------



## CaseyForrest

04ultra said:


> What a bargain there on ebay marked up..
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/CHAINSAW-SHARPE...8QQihZ020QQcategoryZ85915QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> 
> 
> .



I just shot the seller a question.


----------



## ericjeeper

*no wonder NT is out of them aye?*

Ok fess up who from AS is selling theirs to make 81 bucks?


----------



## Butch(OH)

ericjeeper said:


> Ok fess up who from AS is selling theirs to make 81 bucks?



Not I says I. As any prim and proper AS site member would do mine has allready been modded anyway I think woods ported/


----------



## Haywire Haywood

CaseyForrest said:


> I just shot the seller a question.




Me too... ROFL.. I suggested that he wait till the sale is over before he starts selling them.:hmm3grin2orange: 

Ian


----------



## hillcrest

*Thanks for a lot of good info*

I had been listening to you guys ideas on the Northern chain sharpener and I ordered one. It came while we were in Duluth Ga last week. (by the way I went to thier store and this model was not in the store). Mine came all ok with nothing broke so I put it together and sharpened a chain with it today. I put the chain on and it cut just fine. I agree with one of the other posts that some of the adjustment surfaces need cleaned up but it does a great job for $100. And this is from a guy that uses about all Snap On tools. Thanks for all of the good input.


----------



## DOLMARatOs

He might not be too far off selling one. NT says they are backordered for more than 30 days.

Could possibly get it out by Christmas.


----------



## Freakingstang

olyman said:


> freaking--asking us if its reversible--and your the resident electrician???? help man---




I can make it run backwards, that is not the problem. Making the motor last is. If it isn't designed to run backwards, it will be short lived. I took it apart and seems to be fairly easy with the correct base switch, but like I said, I don't want to burn it up running it backwards....

I know three phase motors won't last running backwards. That is where my "expertise" comes in. I know very little about single phase motors. Most DC motors can spin either way based on polarity without negative effects. Not sure on single phase A/C motors....I guess I could try it if they decide to send me another one.... There isn't any kind of diamgram or spec sheet on the motor casing. Makes me wonder. I'm off to do a little searching now......


----------



## DOLMARatOs

I have an older 511A / EFCO grinder that runs both forward and backward. I'll pull it apart and see if there is a difference.


----------



## 04ultra

DOLMARatOs said:


> I have an older 511A / EFCO grinder that runs both forward and backward. I'll pull it apart and see if there is a difference.



could you post a wiring diagram when you do and also see if there is a number on the switch..


THX


----------



## Freakingstang

04ultra said:


> could you post a wiring diagram when you do and also see if there is a number on the switch..
> 
> 
> THX




Steve, I'm going to go to Grainger tomorrow and match up a DPDT switch that will fit in the existing hole. Wiring will be easy, but i want to have the switch in had before offering advice on the wiring part....lol


----------



## 2manytoys4me

got mine today, everything was there and i dont see how it could work any better, get one if you can. did anyone install plastic shields?


----------



## ericjeeper

*I have mine so close to my face*

I installed all the shields. They do not block anything from view when you have it mounted high like I do mine. Photos in this thread a page or so back.


----------



## olyman

dolmar--well be waiting--thanks--hope to be able to reverse it----thats how the new maxx grinder on ebay being sold works---for-------300.00-------!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!----oooo--i like mine --has the 10 degree angle base for crlton chisel--woohooo--didnt know if it would---ahhhhhhhhhh


----------



## Urbicide

olyman said:


> dolmar--well be waiting--thanks--hope to be able to reverse it----thats how the new maxx grinder on ebay being sold works---for-------300.00-------!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!----oooo--i like mine --has the 10 degree angle base for crlton chisel--woohooo--didnt know if it would---ahhhhhhhhhh


Olyman,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, perhaps you are related to`````````` Talon ???????????:yoyo: :biggrinbounce2: opcorn:


----------



## Jim Shockey

How does this grinder shape up to the Maxx grinder. Anyone have experience with both of them, or with the Maxx. I,ve thought a lot about the Maxx but that is a lot of money. Jim


----------



## RoyR(MI)

*The next boat from China has arrived!*

I waited around and ordered one after they were out of stock. The website gave a notice that it would be 30 days before they would get more in. Then today, I got an e-mail that it had been shipped.  Here I was kind of bummed that it was going to be a month, and I might get it before Christmas. Thanks for all the feedback on this grinder. I had looked at it in the catalog, but would not have paid $229. With all the positive comments, it sounds like it will be well worth $99, though. Now I can't wait to tear into it with Butch's suggestions to improve the fit and finish.


----------



## olyman

urbicide--dont frequent enough to know talon---but--this grinder will do what ever you want it toooo--used to sell chainsaws--and know of grind angles--and this has them--hopefully dolmar and freaking can get the switch figured out---ya--lot of money for the maxx---and steve--if the motor is brushless--should be able to be run clock or counter clock--no brushes to grind off----


----------



## litefoot

Freakingstang said:


> Steve, I'm going to go to Grainger tomorrow and match up a DPDT switch that will fit in the existing hole. Wiring will be easy, but i want to have the switch in had before offering advice on the wiring part....lol



I'm certainly not the expert here, but aren't you going to need more than a simple DPDT switch? The direction of the rotation will be determined by the phase angle of incoming AC. Once the motor starts running in the desired direction, I don't think polarity will matter, but wouldn't you need a clipping capacitor or two to get your initial phase angle for each direction?


----------



## RaisedByWolves

olyman said:


> and steve--if the motor is brushless--should be able to be run clock or counter clock--no brushes to grind off----





Agreed, many motors will run fine in either direction with a simple polarity change.


The test will be wether it draws a different amperage/wattage when running backwards/forwards.


If there is a difference and its not too great I think were talking about the motor lasting 10yrs vs 12yrs, as the motor seems very stout with little rpm loss when in use.


----------



## Freakingstang

I called them monday morning to tell them about the thing missing wheels and the gaurds and some mounting hardware. They told me they were back ordered until feburary 20 something....I expressed my concern and was frankly, pizzed off. So they sent me a parts list, and going to get me the parts I need...


In the meantime, I took the switch to Grainger to match up a DPDT switch to fit the frame size.....

Could not find one, so i bought a regular toggle switch (DPDT), but am kinda hesitant to try it backwards, at least until they have more instock....


There are three leads going to the motor, It appears to be a brushless motor, but I don't know if it can be ran backwards or not. One of the wires is a nuetral, and the two blacks come off of the switch, with the one going through the condensor. By swapping them, there will be a ton of current on the nuetral in the reverse direction. 

The diagram of the tecomec grinder show 4 leads going to the motor on the one direction model.

This grinder might be able to run backwards, but like I said, I am not going to burn it up trying until they at least have some in stock.

I got a wheel for a 511A and put on it. It seems to be a great grinder. I will only use it on rocked out chains. It will be more used for race chains, cutting the teeth back to the front of the rivet, cutting the back of the teeth, thinning the rakers, and grinding the top of the drive links.

I touched up a 28" chain that had hit some metal. It seemed fine to me, and doesn't leave a big burr like I thought it would. What I'm saying is, it is decent the way it is.

BTW, what angles do you guys find to work the best? The wheel I had was 3/16" and I found 65 degrees worked fairly well on the Stihl RS chain.


----------



## tawilson

The web site is showing them as in stock again.


----------



## jstarnes

drogueman said:


> Well i just sent Northern an email begging for the sale price but I am sure they will come up some lame excuse not to give me a $100 credit. I have bought a lot of tools from them so lets just see how they will handle this.



They should give you a refund on the difference, if not you might ask what the return policy is. I think they have a 30 day return policy. 

If not sorry


----------



## jhellwig

Reversing of the motor is very simple from the way everyone has described the motor. Although, there needs to be 4 leads coming from the motor to do so. 3 will not work. As far as life of the motor being shortened, there will be no difference. _Most_ motors do not care what direction they are run.  If anyone does happen to have one with 4 leads coming directly from the motor I can give directions on how to wire in a switch. I need to use the vast knowledge that college crammed into my head for something....


----------



## woodchux

I sharpened up an old chain that had already been sharpened with the old grinder a couple of times. I used a setting of 60* x 30* and tilted the cutter point downward 10* I did not bother to do the rakers. This chain cut like Hot Butter! Wow... My harbor freight grinder never got one that sharp! I was throwin some big chips today! VERY HAPPY HERE... MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!


----------



## tawilson

Screw it, I just ordered another one.


----------



## thenline

Did anyone notice that the free gift certificate on NT's website isn't being shown? I thought I remember seeing it there yesterday ($10 free with $100 purchase, $20 free with $200 purchase, etc.). Anybody who orders one today, let us know if that deal is still on. Thanks!


----------



## Scooterbum

*Hotline*

Has anybody joined Northerns Hotline?
Savings on purchases real?
I think free shipping alone would be worth it.


----------



## jstarnes

tawilson said:


> Screw it, I just ordered another one.



Has anyone ever checked out this grinder? 
Who makes it???

http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-ELECT...552429QQihZ014QQcategoryZ139887QQcmdZViewItem
Or eBay item # 330063552429


----------



## Scooterbum

*Did it*

I was hoping this thread would go away before my will power gave up.
No such luck,the grinder is on it's way............................


----------



## stihl025

Scooterbum,

Same here, mine arrived yesterday....


----------



## Steve128

*ditto*

after reading this thread http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40844 , how could I not order?

The addiction grows.............


----------



## tawilson

stihl025 said:


> Scooterbum,
> 
> Same here, mine arrived yesterday....


How the package look and was everything there?


----------



## RoyR(MI)

I got mine today. The box was pretty beat up, but everything was there. The only bad thing was the knob that tightens the vise is cracked. It will probably work as is, but I am going to send an email and see if they will replace it. I used the suggestions from Butch in the other post and sanded all the rough surfaces on the vise. I still could barely turn it until I sprayed some graphite on it. That made all the difference. It turns easily now. The spray I used was mold release from Midway that I use in my bullet molds. Grease probably would have helped, but I was concerned about the grinder dust mixing with the grease.


----------



## jab6

ericjeeper said:


> Here is my setup. The grinder is removable by simply pulling the 2x6 out of the slotfor storage..in the off season.. (whenever that is)The grinder is at shoulder height.. I see no reason to bend over to see what I am doing. We have over 600 treetops laying on the ground from recent logging activity..Anyone from Indiana needing some free firewood.. You cut of course.....


what part of indiana????close to bluffton ??


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Scooterbum said:


> Has anybody joined Northerns Hotline?
> Savings on purchases real?
> I think free shipping alone would be worth it.





Im a hotline member.


I saved all but $10 with just the shipping on my first order and would have saved much more if I had bought all the goodies I want from the hotline catalogs.







RoyR(MI) said:


> I still could barely turn it until I sprayed some graphite on it. The spray I used was mold release from Midway





Graphite is a good idea, but you want the powedered stuff used for locks and air tools.


This will provide good lubrication without attracting grit.


Im using this and a rubber skirt for mine and maintainence should be nil.


----------



## bytehoven

How many times can a chain be sharpened with a grinder -vs- hand filing?

Let's assume were talking a light touch and not over heating the chain with the grinder. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## olyman

depends--as you partially lent to--as in--how much you take off the teeth each time--with a file--your taking very little off--reason i bought it--after down half on the teeth--from hand filing--am going to use the sharpener to get the length of teeth the same--and true everything back up!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: and man--this grinder rocks--for far less than the others--


----------



## olyman

computeruser--thanks for listing this grinder--always wanted one--but refused to pay the outragious prices----it rocks


----------



## beelsr

Scooterbum said:


> Has anybody joined Northerns Hotline?
> Savings on purchases real?
> I think free shipping alone would be worth it.



It is. I joined a few years ago when I needed to restock some stuff in the garage (brother-in-law, don't ask...) and I looked at it the same way - pay for the shipping up front and get a few "sale catalogs". I joined again a few months ago when buying some stuff where it offset the shipping charge. Just bought some stuff last night (Merry Christmas to me  and so, I'm on the good side for this time.

The regular free shipping is up to 50 pounds. and if it's from a "hotline catalog", then everything is free, regardless of weight. 

An added bonus I discovered last night is that there seems to be two logins on their site. The first is click "My Account" and login and the second is when you're checking out and enter in the catalog keycode (above the name on the shipping label area). The keycode controls the shipping costs AND pricing on some items. After I entered in the keycode, the prices on a couple things changed. So, double hotline bonus...


----------



## olyman

beesler--how to join the hotline??? need to know---oly


----------



## beelsr

olyman said:


> beesler--how to join the hotline??? need to know---oly



You add it to your order when you place one. When I joined years ago I just added it to my online order. I let it lapse since I didn't really need anything from them. When I just joined, I did it over the phone. The operators are trained to ask you if you want to add it to your order (would you like fries with that...). 

I called to get a live person so I could haggle a little and so... I hemmed and hawed a little; asked her to go over the details of the plan a few times, etc... After a couple minutes she caved and gave me an extra discount on something to sweeten the deal and so I agreed.


----------



## olyman

cool--i joined--saved on this second order--another grinder!!!!! and already have a use for some of the other coupons coming-- thanks,,,


----------



## drogueman

I got mine up and running after two days of partying, it took a little practice and a few adjustments but after that I was going along like a pro, man that thing sure puts an edge on them chains. I haven't put the saw into some wood yet but I am sure it will make a big difference. Good luck to all you guys who bought them.:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## olyman

after sharpening three chains--one off the saw--and back on--whooooeeeeee--that chain rocks----chips out the wazooooo


----------



## CaseyForrest

Well, broke down and ordered one......Still backordered.


----------



## tawilson

CaseyForrest said:


> Well, broke down and ordered one......Still backordered.


Go figure. I've got one inroute right now. I wonder if they get the one's back that are missing parts and make complete kits out of them for resale? The first one I got looked like it had been opened, and just had some plastic banding around it. It was all there in one piece, though.


----------



## bytehoven

I have a unit headed my way as well, with a handfull of chains ready to sharpen.

I figure I will start with a 14" loop for my 192T, one that hit some dirt when finishing up a stump for a neighbor. He bought me a new chain, so restoring the dulled chain will be a bonus and my 1st dividend toward the grinder purchase. 

I'll report the condition of the grinder when it arrives as others have done. I'm hoping it will be good to go, without anything broken or missing.


----------



## stihlatit

tawilson said:


> Put on a chain I'd stuck in the dirt or cut some dead oak with or did something to scorch it. I've never seen a grinder before except for pics so feel free to critique. I'm satisfied with the results, but I'll know more after putting the metal to the wood.



Hey ta am I not seeing right. In the last picture it looks like the cutters on the far side of the chain are a lot shorter then the ones on the near side of the chain?


----------



## CaseyForrest

Im a die hard filer....So believe me I will critique this thing like no tomorrow.


----------



## tawilson

Arnie, I don't know. It looks to me like the one I just finished grinding is much shorter the the far one which hadn't been. I definitely took a lot of metal off on the first chain. A little less on the next, and so on. These were all chains which had been messed up so much that I didn't want to hand file back in shape, so good to tune up on.


----------



## rmihalek

Well, I just ordered one since I need a round grinder and it turns out they're still backordered. This thread'll be a good primer for how to tune it up once it arrives in February or March!


----------



## grandpatractor

I was telling the missus about the deal and lo and behold she ordered me one for christmas They told her mid january.


----------



## RaisedByWolves

tawilson said:


> I wonder if they get the one's back that are missing parts and make complete kits out of them for resale? The first one I got looked like it had been opened, and just had some plastic banding around it. It was all there in one piece, though.




Yep the plastic bands are the key.




Mine also had a sticker that said "Re packaged" on it and everything was intact and in good order.





In regards to stihlatits concern about the differing tooth length Ive got a fix for that, but I had a big day today, Ill post it later on, its a fairly simple fix. 



My local shops oregon has the same problem, but an operator that is skilled can lessen the effect.


Im not allways that skilled......


----------



## olyman

were waiting one the cure for the diff tooth length RBW--as now the base is fixed--and the tooth length is only bug left!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it rocks


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Sorry bout the wait, I only have three hands!



OK, contrary to popular belief, your not quite done with the base yet.



Ok, go over and grab your grinder by the motor (or handle) and see if you can rock the head left-right in reference to the base.


You need to look where the rear of the head portion (below the hinge) mates to the base when doing this. (right above the * scale) If you can rock this by pushing left-right on the head and open up a slight gap where these two parts come together you will need to grind the lil casting tab down as I have in this pic.










The tab was situated right above the bolt hole and was keeping the two surfaces from mating flush with each other. Notice where the paint is partially scuffed where I ran a flat file across the entire surfact to insure flatness.



That took care of the majority of the inacuracys that could be caused by the force of your hand bringing the head down to the tooth due to it traveling through an angle and the tendency of wanting to pull straight down sometimes and to the side (with the angle) at other times.





But there was still some slop in the base that needed to be eliminated.




I found when the base was loosened to swivel the vise to do left or right hand cutters that there was some side to side movement in the two castings. If the vise wasnt consistantly pushed to the same side you would get noticably differing length cutters.





All thats needed here is a thin shim mounted in the base pivot ring that takes up the excess play. I used .010 stainless shim stock due to knowing it would not only act as a shim but also would act as a spring to help center the vise flange in the base ring. You can use Brass shim from a local hobby shop if you cant get stainless. With either you may need slightly thicker or thinner shim but I think .010 will give you good results.



This pic is looking straight down at the base ring. you can see the faint thin shine of the shim inside the pivot ring. It simply rests inside the eight lil bumpers that are in there.












Heres a shot of the same shim and how I anchored it. At first I had problems with it wanting to rotate when the vise was rotated and jaming up and not wanting to turn. Then I tried cutting the shim about 1/2" shorter and turning the ends out so they locked on on of the bumpers and Viola, it works perfectly!













Ok you didnt think I was done did you?








I had one last idea for making this lil grinder easier to use, I kind of expanded Butch(oh)'s idea, so Ill give him credit for inspiring this one.


I made a bearing of sorts for the base that lets the vise pivot easier when being turned. The entire unit is made from aluminum, whenever you have Alu rubbing Alu you will have problems with the two surfaces "Galling". That is they will pick up particles of Alu from each other and this will build up causing a gritty, stiff feeling when you try and rotate it.


I solved this by cutting a washer out of SS and fitting it to the base ring as shown.













The washer had to be slipped off the base for the pic otherwise it could not be seen. this washer needs to be free of burrs and sharp edges asthey will dig in and defeat the purpose. With this in place the two halves of the base each have a nice smooth surface to glide on and it will also reject grinding dust where the it would imbed in the Alu.




Now I have a chain grinder that is nicer to use than my local shops oregon unit. You actually have to try and make the cutters turn out different by more than .010-.015.



Thats plenty close enough for our purposes.


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Heres the last two lil things I did, these are minor additions but they make it easier to use the unit and give it a smother feel.





First is the cupped washer that goes undre the handle that secures the vise in position. This washer has a slight burr (raised edge) from the stamping process. I simply rubbed this on a sheet of sand paper placed on a flat surface. You can see the shine of the edge where it was sanded down in this pic.
















Second was the addition of a small spring to the tooth stop to make to act as a ratchet when advancing the chain. I had to drill my own hole due to the spring that I made, but if you find the right spring (pen spring?) you may be able to use the holes that are there. You dont want too much spring, just enough to overcome the force fo the adjusting springs tendency to keep the stop elevated when the tooth has advanced. 


Too much spring and the chain will grab the stop.












I should have mentioned that it took me as long to make that post as it did to make these changes.



It seems like a lot or like it may be difficult but its not too bad.


----------



## beelsr

RaisedByWolves said:


> I had one last idea for making this lil grinder easier to use, I kind of expanded Butch(oh)'s idea, so Ill give him credit for inspiring this one.
> 
> 
> I made a bearing of sorts for the base that lets the vise pivot easier when being turned. The entire unit is made from aluminum, whenever you have Alu rubbing Alu you will have problems with the two surfaces "Galling". That is they will pick up particles of Alu from each other and this will build up causing a gritty, stiff feeling when you try and rotate it.
> 
> 
> I solved this by cutting a washer out of SS and fitting it to the base ring as shown.



Cut it how?


----------



## Freakingstang

Can I be the first one to ask for a SS washer, since you have the blueprint and resources...lol


thanks for the tips. I know mine has a little side to side play that needs to be taken care of


----------



## tawilson

beelsr said:


> Cut it how?



I was wondering that too. Maybe if I had a couple of holesaws the right size?


----------



## PA Plumber

I ordered a grinder last week, but will probably be ages before it shows up. I would also be interested in the SS washer. Cost? Very likely that will definitely be needed. Otherwise, the rest looks like an if needed basis.


----------



## RaisedByWolves

*Oh, Ive created a monster!*

The SS is fairly easy to cut as its very thin, you would loose a finger with a hole saw.



As far as how I did it, I used a industrial hole punch (Rotodex) and knocked out and nibbled away the inner portion and then ground it to fit.


I guess since I got this ball rolling Ill make up a small crowd of them as it will be just as easy to make 10 as it was to make one.



Easier actually.




I wont be back to work untill next wed though.






Someone throw a rock at me if you dont hear from me on this in a week. 




.


----------



## beelsr

RaisedByWolves said:


> I guess since I got this ball rolling Ill make up a small crowd of them as it will be just as easy to make 10 as it was to make one.
> 
> 
> 
> Easier actually.



So, the couple hundred you just got yourself in for should be a piece of cake, right????


----------



## drogueman

Excelent post on the sharpener mods, the pics were great. I just finished doing up a few chains and I wish I had read this post before I did them, kinda got caught up in all the glory of using the sharpener. Me and my buddy
(woodward15) had a little saw race today using 4 different saws and the northern sharpener plays a part in this. Woody put a new set of rings on a little Homelite 33cc and wanted to run it up against 2 of 7 of my saws and another one of his. He fired up the little homelite and slammed it into a 12 inch pine and it wouldn't cut s%$t so we took the chain off and put a professional edge on it with the Nothern sharpener. Then with a stop watch timed it cutting through the pine. I then ran my Husky 44 up against it and the Homelite beat it by 4 seconds. It also beat my Shindaiwa 377 and his Husky 61. The bragging rights were flying and we just couldn't under stand how this little homelite pulled this off,lol. Theory is my husky 44 had a new 18 inch bar and chain instead of a 16 and dragging the power down. The Shindaiwa had a worn chain with 20 different degree angles on it from free hand sharpening. The husky 61 also had a much larger bar and chain and also pulling the RPMs down. This is all theory and I think the edge the northern sharpener put on the Homelite made a big difference. All in all it was a fun day and very interesting, just thought I would share that with you guys.:bang:


----------



## RaisedByWolves

beelsr said:


> So, the couple hundred you just got yourself in for should be a piece of cake, right????




Hell yeah, any amount over 100 and it happens automatically.




Im going to try and get one of my CowIrkers to make me a cad program and have them cut on the EDM.



This way they can be made by the dozen and the only costs will be for the material. 




The lil spring strips will have to be made by hand though.:help:


----------



## Freakingstang

Just want to say thanks RBW, I leave you a pos, but well, that isn't going so well right now. lol.

I was just kidding about having you make them, but if you are serious, I'll take one as long as it isn't too expensive. You know the price of metals hs gone up lately....


----------



## CaseyForrest

Freakingstang said:


> Just want to say thanks RBW, I leave you a pos, but well, that isn't going so well right now. lol.
> 
> I was just kidding about having you make them, but if you are serious, I'll take one as long as it isn't too expensive. You know the price of metals hs gone up lately....



RBW, I sent you a PM, but Im interested too, just let us know how much.


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Freakingstang said:


> Just want to say thanks RBW, I leave you a pos, but well, that isn't going so well right now. lol.
> 
> I was just kidding about having you make them, but if you are serious, I'll take one as long as it isn't too expensive. You know the price of metals hs gone up lately....






Dont sweat the rep.




And I think your going to find the cost werry agreeable.


----------



## beelsr

RaisedByWolves said:


> Hell yeah, any amount over 100 and it happens automatically.




I'm going to have to take a drive down the extension and visit you one of these days... :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Dude, C'Mon down!




Im about 1.5 hrs from old exit 36 (I hate the new system so Im still using the old exit #'s) About 2hrs total from Dallas/West Wyoming area.






I got wood, saws and pops ready anytime.


----------



## PA Plumber

RBW,
What town are you near? I may be able to help out with something on this. I live near Harrisburg and about 20 minutes from the turnpike.


----------



## RaisedByWolves

South central, gotcha, I was thinking NE extention for some reason.




Im outside of phily near Washingtons crossing.





I think were about 2hrs from H'Burgh.


----------



## PA Plumber

Mapquest says 136 miles. Guess I won't be much help. Sorry.


----------



## CaseyForrest

I drive right by some of you guys on my way to MD, I get off at Breezewood, onto 70 into Frederick.


----------



## PA Plumber

Breezewood is an hour and a half to the west. Fredrick, MD is approx 1 hr 45 min. to the south.


----------



## beelsr

RaisedByWolves said:


> Dude, C'Mon down!
> 
> Im about 1.5 hrs from old exit 36 (I hate the new system so Im still using the old exit #'s) About 2hrs total from Dallas/West Wyoming area.
> 
> I got wood, saws and pops ready anytime.



I hate the old exit #s. I'm from Michigan and grew up using mile markers. My fave: Big Beaver Road, exit 69. no lie....  

did you mean 1.5 miles from exit #36? I was going to guess that was willow grove-ish. I say I'm in the North Poconos - sounds more impressive than 20 minutes SE of Scranton  - a little under 2 hours to both mid-county and harrisburg.

pops = ????


----------



## beelsr

RaisedByWolves said:


> Dude, C'Mon down!



Oh, I will. It just won't be for a while. Family emergency and have to leave town for a week or two. 

Maybe by then Northern will have the grinders back in stock and I'll have it...


----------



## Stihl 041S

*SS washer*

I'm new here.
Somebody give me an ID &OD, thickness, maybe a tolerance, 410 or 316, but 410 would be nicer, and I'll make some. The info on this forum has been worth a lot, and I'd like to say thanks to all. Rob


----------



## stihl025

*SS washer*

RBW or Stihl041s,

If you guys make them, put me in for one. Just let me know the co$t.


----------



## grandpatractor

*ss washer*

look like I'll be needing one of them there worshers too. I don't have access to that kind of tooling


----------



## drogueman

It looks like somebody will have to make a s%$t load of those washers and shims. I just wonder if we can get a count on how many will be needed. You can count me in on a set !!


----------



## Scooterbum

I'd like one myself.Just got mine in yesterday.
*If you need anything drawn up in a cad file just let me know.*
Just need dimensions.


----------



## woodchux

I am in need of a washer also. Please make one for me too. I will happily pay you for your troubles.


----------



## bytehoven

I would also be interested in a set of washers for the NT grinder.



BTW... does AS ever organize group buys? I have searched and the closest thing to a group buy seems to be many of us buying an item at the same time, like this grinder.

I was thinking more along the lines of getting a discount on something because we have a bunch of folks interested.

For instance, a group buy on a Stihl Tachometer.


----------



## stihl025

I would be interested in the total number of grinders that NT sold during that sale period. Kinda makes you wonder how many grinders sold were to AS members.


----------



## grandpatractor

Ok I'll start-1


----------



## Stihl 041S

*Id & Od*

I need the ID & OD and thickness, a tolerence or three, and someone to keep track of the folks who need them. Any takers. Rob


----------



## woodchux

bytehoven said:


> I was thinking more along the lines of getting a discount on something because we have a bunch of folks interested.
> 
> For instance, a group buy on a Stihl Tachometer.



Great thinking, as i am in need of a tach. Count me in.


----------



## CaseyForrest

Dont think youd be getting a Stihl tach unless you go into the dealer and get it yourself!!!

Maybe one of the fast tachs though....


----------



## woodchux

I saw the oregon grinder last night for $408! hehe


----------



## PA Plumber

CaseyForrest said:


> Dont think youd be getting a Stihl tach unless you go into the dealer and get it yourself!!!
> 
> Maybe one of the fast tachs though....



What is the suggested retail on a couple of different models?Preferably the new one that is supposed to do it all.


----------



## CaseyForrest

PA Plumber said:


> What is the suggested retail on a couple of different models?Preferably the new one that is supposed to do it all.



I just got the EDT 8 off ebay for $90 to my door. 

I believe my dealer said list is $99. 

I used mine today, works real nice. It read a little slow today, but its been sitting in my unheated shed, so the display was a little cold.


----------



## olyman

i could use two of the washers--have two grinders------wonder how many have been bought by as members?????:biggrinbounce2: thanks to computeruser--ill bet its a bunch--as some that buy--dont post--


----------



## beelsr

CaseyForrest said:


> I just got the EDT 8 off ebay for $90 to my door.
> 
> I believe my dealer said list is $99.
> 
> I used mine today, works real nice. It read a little slow today, but its been sitting in my unheated shed, so the display was a little cold.



hmmm, couldn't find any on ebay. not even with a completed search. 

stihl, tach, edt, "edt 8"... the last one just fond tons of cologne... :bang:


----------



## olyman

well--youll smell nice:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## CaseyForrest

beelsr said:


> hmmm, couldn't find any on ebay. not even with a completed search.
> 
> stihl, tach, edt, "edt 8"... the last one just fond tons of cologne... :bang:




http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320060760290


----------



## Stihl 041S

*Id & Od*

Somebody, anybody, ID & OD!!!!!

Somebody to count, 

Heck, I'll keep count and then mail them to a dispersal site. Don't know how it works on this site, I'll star making them tomorrow, if I knew the SS washer ID & OD.
Rob


----------



## deadtrees

I also have the ability and the tools to make the washers and maybe the
strips at work if I have the dimensions and tolerances. I do not need a cad file. I would have to get material but that can be done.


----------



## CaseyForrest

The guy that knows will be out for awhile..not sure when he will get back.


----------



## bytehoven

beelsr said:


> hmmm, couldn't find any on ebay. not even with a completed search.
> 
> stihl, tach, edt, "edt 8"... the last one just fond tons of cologne... :bang:



Thet Ebay link provided is from Ebay member Partman. He lists the EDT 8 tach every once in awhile. Just keep an eye on what he has listed.

However, for an extra $9, it's probably a good idea to buy from your Stihl dealer so you have a better chance of getting a better deal on the big stuff.


----------



## ericjeeper

*ID/OD measurements*

inside with a bit of play 3.140 tight was 3.132 outside needs to be around 3.535
and for thickness. I would say anywhere between 15-30thousandths , basically whatever is handy, cheap or free


----------



## beelsr

CaseyForrest said:


> I just got the EDT 8 off ebay for $90 to my door.
> 
> I believe my dealer said list is $99.
> 
> I used mine today, works real nice. It read a little slow today, but its been sitting in my unheated shed, so the display was a little cold.



And this is the one that "does it all"? Looks identical to the SenDEC that Bailey's sells - except for the nameplace sticker color.

I was looking at the Fast-Tech from DTI since it has a replaceable battery, is wireless and supports multiple firing modes. I wonder if the "4 magnet" thing Andy was talking about would be supported by a different firing mode. Heck - even if it only read half the true RPMs, I think we all could figure out that 7000 was the magic number to stop at.

I wish Andy would post more info on the "4 magnet" thing.


----------



## Stihl 041S

ericjeeper;
Thank you. Yipee!


----------



## Stihl 041S

*who needs SS washers*

S E N D M E A N E M A I L I F Ya W A N T O N E ! ! ! ! ! ! !


----------



## Lakeside53

beelsr said:


> And this is the one that "does it all"? Looks identical to the SenDEC that Bailey's sells - except for the nameplace sticker color.
> 
> I was looking at the Fast-Tech from DTI since it has a replaceable battery, is wireless and supports multiple firing modes. I wonder if the "4 magnet" thing Andy was talking about would be supported by a different firing mode. Heck - even if it only read half the true RPMs, I think we all could figure out that 7000 was the magic number to stop at.
> 
> I wish Andy would post more info on the "4 magnet" thing.





It's not the same as the Sendec. It's also not a matter of just selecting a different mode - if not we'd all do this on the EDT5 etc. The 4 magnet system make the reading unreliable.

The magnets - Two are for a generator to power the microprocessor and metering solenoid for the carb system coming out right now on selected saws. The other two are just standard magneto magnets. The problem is that the low magnitude pulses from the the generator magnets create a field that is picked up by conventional tach and misinterpreted. The EDT7 and 8 have logic to reject the spurious pluses and lock onto the main signal only. 


Don't sweat the new ignition system yet - its only one saw initially, (MS280) and it will be a while before the main-stream pro saws are affected.


----------



## beelsr

Lakeside53 said:


> It's not the same as the Sendec. It's also not a matter of just selecting a different mode - if not we'd all do this on the EDT5 etc. The 4 magnet system make the reading unreliable.



Thanks.



Lakeside53 said:


> Don't sweat the new ignition system yet - its only one saw initially, (MS280) and it will be a while before the main-stream pro saws are affected.



I take it that the EDT7 is the "deluxe" and the EDT8 is the "pocket". Either have a replaceable battery?


----------



## CaseyForrest

I dont believe I can get to the battery in my 8, Unless I want to glue it back together. I may find a way though.


----------



## Greg Harrison

*Shims made by Raised by Wolves*

I just ordered one of the grinders and would be willing to pay you for a set of the shims. I doubt I could find the stuff where I live and perhaps could not make them to the correct dimension. You might get enough business from here on this site to make it well worth your while.
Thanks for the info at the very least!!
Greg Harrison


----------



## hillcrest

*To Stihl 041*

I would like to buy a set of the washers too.
[email protected]


----------



## woodchux

Stihl 041S said:


> S E N D M E A N E M A I L I F Ya W A N T O N E ! ! ! ! ! ! !



You dont have any contact info. Whats the email? I need a washer!


----------



## Stihl 041S

*ss washer*

Oh wood chux, click on Stihl 041S and it says;email, click on it and send me an address.

Is $2.00 plus postage okay with everyone? 

Rob


----------



## tawilson

My 2nd one showed up today, all there and in one piece. I set this up just for rakers. Even when hand filing, I'll still do the rakers with the grinder when needed. I like hand filing, but I never really liked doing the depth guages, I dunno why.


----------



## CaseyForrest

Well, got tired of waiting, and several unanswered emails about when it will be in stock....just cancelled my order and bought the MAXX grinder.


----------



## bytehoven

My NT grinder arrived today safe and sound.

I already did the couple of upgrades to the base plate section.

I'm among those interested in the washer/shim upgrade, although I must say the wet sanding of the base plate surfaces and a little dab of grease in the contact area, made for a very smooth moving joint. 

With the washer upgrade in place, would any kind of lub on the contact area still be advised for best movement?

If yes, is a dry graphite really needed over a nice grease? I ask because it doesn't look like metal dust coule easily work into the contact space, since the only way in would be from the sides.

I have to back and re-read all of the comments on the grinder to make sure I did not miss any tweaks for best tolerances.


----------



## ericjeeper

*grease bad choice*

I took mine apart last night to measure for the specs. and I was actually suprised how much grinding dust had migrated the the surface where the two pieces rotates. I would think some silicone spray would be a better choice..
I have probably sharpened 40 plus chains on mine.


----------



## bytehoven

Thanks Eric...

After going back and reading both this thread and the upgrade thread, I cleaned out all of the grease and will do either spray graphite or silcone.

I cleaned out the bearing springs and spring pits as well, which made it a little tricky getting the beast back together. 


Stihl 041S... regarding the shims/washers... are you doing the inside shims as well as the large washer? Just wondering.


----------



## SmokinDodge

Update: Finally got time to play with the Northern grinder I received weeks ago. Thanks to the info gleaned from countless AS members my first chain sharpening was a success! My brother in law (who works at a saw shop) was at the house over the weekend and I had him give it a try. He said it ran/worked just as good as their 511a Oregon except for the stiff adjustments, which we now know how to address. I'm always leary of the cheap tools believing you get what you pay for but this time I think I got a little more.

Verdict: Well worth the 100 clams for any wood tick


----------



## PA Plumber

*Northern Tool Grinder*

I just spoke with customer service. 

There is a 750 item backorder on the grinder. 250 grinders are to be in on Jan. 17. Another 500 grinders are to arrive on February 4th. 

The backorder started 1 week before X-mas.

So... if you have one ordered, it could be awhile. At this point, I'm waiting it out.


----------



## tawilson

tawilson said:


> Screw it, I just ordered another one.



That was on the 20th. I don't know how I managed to get one. They showed out of stock for a week or so, then they showed back in stock for a day, and that's when I ordered. Lucky. I'm surprised they haven't raised the price by now.


----------



## bytehoven

Tom...

I think I ended up in the same boat as you. I placed my order on the 23rd and it arrived yesterday.

My box was also marker "re-packaged" as has been noted by some other folks.


----------



## CaseyForrest

tawilson said:


> That was on the 20th. I don't know how I managed to get one. They showed out of stock for a week or so, then they showed back in stock for a day, and that's when I ordered. Lucky. I'm surprised they haven't raised the price by now.



Just got my Northern winter catalog and the price is $189 now.


----------



## Stihl 041S

*SS Washers*

Sorry I havent emailed people that I got their email but I crank handles better than I type. I' m Mailing out samples to eric and raised by wolves today if the address' came in, so they can point and laugh and tell my my screwups, as I hand file now . As soon as they say fine, they will be mailed out in e mail order, then you can send me money. 

I said $2 plud ship, how does $3 mailed back when you get it sound? 

Rob


----------



## Stihl 041S

*SS Washer*

Sorry, forgot, just email the address you want the washer sent to.
Rob


----------



## bytehoven

Sounds good to me.

Thanks


----------



## dtw902

I posted this in another thread. Thought I would put it here 
with all the grinders that have been bought lately.
Click the link and scroll down towards the bottom of the page.
Borazon wheels for standard chain, and Diamond for carbide chains.
I have used the borazon wheels from them for years. They last a 
long time, no dressing always the same run cooler. Here's the link.
http://www.saw-toolsharpening.com/Saw Chain Sharpener.html
__________________
I also dug out the owners manuel for one of the grinders I have
and copied the grinding instructions and Grinder picture with 
the numbers on it that the instructions reference to.

You adjust number 3 screw (reference drawing and #11 in the instructions).
to make your right and left cutters match.


----------



## dtw902

One more thing my book shows 4 wires from the motor. 
I would like to reverse the motor for the back cutters. 
I could post a picture of the schematic if it would help.


----------



## Urbicide

dtw902 said:


> One more thing my book shows 4 wires from the motor.
> I would like to reverse the motor for the back cutters.
> I could post a picture of the schematic if it would help.



Go ahead and post the schematic. Non-reversible universal motors will have only 3 leads: 2 for power and one for ground. The reversible universal motors will have either 4 or 5 leads with one of these being a ground. The type of switch required to reverse direction depends on the number of wires present. opcorn:


----------



## dtw902

Ok here they are. There was 2 pic's in the book.


----------



## Freakingstang

dtw902 said:


> Ok here they are. There was 2 pic's in the book.



Those are for the oregon 511 or tecomec grinders. One print is for the new one direction motor and the older reversible one.

the NT grinder only has three leads...Been there tried that...lol.

thanks for the print though, it took me a while to find them.


----------



## Ggg

I have been reading this thread about these grinders and came across another grinder at a good price. I am looking for any input on it. Tecomec 185 guy is asking $50, w/ two wheels and it works. The motor pivot angle is not adj. but the vise is.
Thanks


----------



## olyman

dtw902--thats a fine price on the borazon wheels--i called my supplier--they said the wheels would only last for 400 chains????? seems strange--as hard as they are!!!! foley posts some good prices--i just bought the blade balancer for mowers from them---was on sale--


----------



## CaseyForrest

I just ordered one of those Borazon wheels.


----------



## Urbicide

dtw902 said:


> Ok here they are. There was 2 pic's in the book.



I started looking at your diagrams last night when my computer decided to lock up on me. The diagrams are not very detailed as to what the motor leads hook up to internally. They are more for reconnecting the leads to the switch if the switch goes bad.The color coding on the wires is definitely not anything standard in the US or Canada. Example: the color green is exclusively reserved for use as identifying the grounding conductor by the National Electric Code. The green wire coming off of the motor is hooked to the hot side of the line cord along with the blue wire through the switch. The red and the black wires are hooked to the neutral side. I am not 100% sure if the small box on the left hand side of the diagram is a capacitor or a thermal limiting switch. This box ultimately connects the blue with the green wire at the switch. It obviously would be easier for me to have the unit in my hands but... Do you have a multimeter that you can use and some electrical knowledge? The first determination would be to figure out if the small box with 2 wires is indeed a thermal limiter (circuit breaker) or if it a capacitor (used to help start the motor). PM me if you are interested in exploring this further. We also have to take into consideration the potential for burning the unit up, electrical shock, and in an extreme case but always a possibility, of electrocution. 

Take care.

Vince


----------



## olyman

well,Steve--what say you to urbicides post?? is it possible?????? (hoping)


----------



## olyman

aannnndddddddddd--for the rest of you--id be getting those borazon wheels--thats a screaching price!!!!!!!! ive checked----


----------



## dtw902

If I get some spare time I will take a look at the grinder.
I will see about getting a picture of the wiring.


----------



## Sparky_NY

*Motor reversing*

I checked out the wiring in my grinder while I was assembling it. I have seen a lot of posts questioning if there are 3, 4 or whatever wires. Its not just a matter of how many wires there are BUT their functions that matter.

In the case of this grinder.... it is a capacitor start type motor. The capacitor is NOT mounted in or on the motor but remotely in the handle assembly right next to the starting switch. There are 4 wires coming from the motor (not counting ground), 2 of the wires go to the remote starting capacitor, the other 2 are AC hot and neutral. 

So.... if you are going to reverse this motor, it is NOT going to happen by just applying some switching to the wires coming out of the motor. I have not dissassembled the motor to inspect inside and determine IF the required wires are accessable and feasable for purposes of reversing. IF there are points that can be accessed, it would require cutting some connections, adding a couple more wires to make the coils independent, THEN adding a reversing switch.

Personally, I decided it isn't worth the effort. Yes it does leave a slight burr on the cutters on one side BUT that burr is so tiny and fine it flakes right off if you just touch it, its gone instantly when the chain touches the wood. Granted for the purist it would be preferrable to reverse the grinding wheel and eliminate the burr BUT in my opinion we are talking the difference in a chain that performs at 95% or 100%, either is a great cutting chain! 

I cut some 18" hard maple yesterday with my 044 , using woodsman pro chain that I sharpened. I was VERY impressed !!!!! I'd venture to say that chain cuts AT LEAST as good as a brand new one out of the box. That is good enough for me!


----------



## olyman

well--i guess you answered that question sparky---i had the same thoughts--the burr comes off as soon as you hit the wood--will leave well enough alone-----!!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## Greg Harrison

*My grinder is on the way*

I ordered a grinder last week and it wasBO's until the 19th but got a message saying it had shipped yesterday. Yahoo. Time to sharpen chains.
Greg Harrison


----------



## olyman

Greg Harrison said:


> I ordered a grinder last week and it wasBO's until the 19th but got a message saying it had shipped yesterday. Yahoo. Time to sharpen chains.
> Greg Harrison


 naw--time to go cut wood--as we still have had no snow---44 degrees today---


----------



## olyman

well--today i recieved the second chain saw grinder--nothing broken or hurt---but no sawing--20 below today--dang---at least can assemble the second grinder:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## PA Plumber

The grinder came with a depth gauge. Do you set this on a tooth and file the raker down to the appropriate "nibbon" on the depth gauge?


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Depth guage?





I didnt get no depth guage?


----------



## tawilson

The little plastic thingy you use to shape the stone has some depth gauge settings in the corners.


----------



## olyman

hmmm-never noticed that plastic thingy--was too interested in getting the first grinder together--will go look now-----


----------



## GAPULPER

Well, you guys made another sale for Northern. Just placed my order after finding this thread. Had considered buying a grinder but didn't want to spend $250+ for something decent. Look forward to checking it out. 

Anyone ever purchase reject wood from a sawmill for conversion to firewood? I don't know of a much better way to get a workout sharpening chains. We cut up a little over 25 tons of the metal impregnated oak and hickory. 

After hand sharpening about 30 chains over the past few weeks with some severely damaged I'm ready to try something new. Thanks!


----------



## PA Plumber

tawilson said:


> The little plastic thingy you use to shape the stone has some depth gauge settings in the corners.




So the brown plastic thing is for stone shaping? I have never used a chain grinder before. Does the new sharpening disk need dressed?

The plastic thingy I have doesn't look like the corners show and different depth. I see the thickness measurements, but it all looks to be the same to me.


----------



## PA Plumber

Okay, I think I understand the "disk shaping" now. I guess you use the stone to make the disk fit into the appropriate slot?


----------



## tawilson

PA Plumber said:


> So the brown plastic thing is for stone shaping? I have never used a chain grinder before. Does the new sharpening disk need dressed?
> 
> The plastic thingy I have doesn't look like the corners show and different depth. I see the thickness measurements, but it all looks to be the same to me.


You might be right. I've got a couple of real depth gauges so never used it.


----------



## tbst

I think that I am going to have to break down and buy one.


----------



## PA Plumber

tbst said:


> I think that I am going to have to break down and buy one.




Hopefully they are still on sale. I had heard the price was going up. I received mine recently. It took a little over an hour of reading the manual, assembling the grinder and looking things over before I tried my first two chains. 

I have never used a grinder before and this seemed fairly straightforward. Took about 30 minutes for my first two chains. They were a friends safety chains and I had to grind down the rakers and safety ties. PITB (Pain in the Backside). Next chains should be a lot faster.

The chains look good. It will be a while before he tries them out though. 

Oh, I do like the grinder.


----------



## tbst

PA Plumber said:


> Hopefully they are still on sale. I had heard the price was going up. I received mine recently. It took a little over an hour of reading the manual, assembling the grinder and looking things over before I tried my first two chains.
> 
> I have never used a grinder before and this seemed fairly straightforward. Took about 30 minutes for my first two chains. They were a friends safety chains and I had to grind down the rakers and safety ties. PITB (Pain in the Backside). Next chains should be a lot faster.
> 
> The chains look good. It will be a while before he tries them out though.
> 
> Oh, I do like the grinder.



These grinders is all we use at work, so learning to use and assemble shouldnt be the problem. It is a matter of do I want to shell out a hundred bucks.


----------



## PA Plumber

My local Stihl guy raised his rates to $5.00/chain (Rocked chain is $7.00). The last time I dropped of chains to be sharpened he lost one. I had to dig through a whole bunch of orders to find my missing chain. 

$100.00 for me was an easy decision.


----------



## woodchux

tbst said:


> These grinders is all we use at work, so learning to use and assemble shouldnt be the problem. It is a matter of do I want to shell out a hundred bucks.



Do it! The grinder is well worth the money. I'm gonna get a second one just to use on my smaller chains. That way i wont have to switch out the grinder wheels for different size chains.


----------



## tawilson

Yep, still on sale. I'm surprised too. Seems as popular as it is and the way they keep selling out they would have jacked the price up by now.


----------



## drogueman

Just wondering who is making the washers so I can send them an address, I sent an address to 041 but haven't seen anything in the mail. No big hurry ,just want to be on the list . How many have been requested so far ???


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Weve had a slight slowdown in this effort due to my having to ship the spring/shims off to 041.



He should have them soon if not now.










tawilson said:


> Yep, still on sale. I'm surprised too. Seems as popular as it is and the way they keep selling out they would have jacked the price up by now.






Usually, for whatever reason Northern doesent go this route. I think they prefer volume sales rather than winfalls to keep their people imployed during slack times.


----------



## drogueman

*Washer*

OK, thanks for the update from RBW and 041S on the washers for the Northern sharpener. Take your time and do um up good, I am sure they will make a big difference in the operation of the sharpener and the precision of the edge it puts on the chain,thanks guys.


----------



## bytehoven

Drogueman: 

I am looking forward to the washer/shims helping the grinder be even a little more precise as well as further freeing up the movement of the chain vise base.

However, making the other modifications mentioned, also help the grinder alot.


----------



## drogueman

*Washers*

Bytehoven,
I agree 100% , and I have done all the other modes, with all the pics posted it was a piece of cake. We have a great group of guys and gals in here and they all have a special talent in doing one thing or another and with all our brains working together we can get the job done better than NASA, lol. Thanks for the post, have a good one.


----------



## olyman

tom w--one thing id like to know--since computer posted this--wonder how many have been bought from northern???:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## ericjeeper

*I started a pol several weeks back.. but it fell behind.*

search for Northern grinder poll


----------



## olyman

eric----------:greenchainsaw:


----------



## PA Plumber

I can't vote again. My first was that I would likely purchase one. Then, after severe arm twisting, have one.


----------



## olyman

her arm---or yours???!!!!!!:greenchainsaw:


----------



## PA Plumber

Good Point!! First the twist came from the site. Now the grief from home! 

Actually my wife is okay with most of my purchases. The snowmobile one has been used as ammo against me a few times. The Chainsaw one has been used a couple of times. The truck one has found its way in to "conversation" a few times. The fishing & hunting one has a lot of mileage on it. 

You know, I think my wife might have a point. Naaaahhhh.


----------



## Greg Harrison

Just recieved my Northern grinder and the 1/8 wheel was broken. Called Northern and they are going to ship out the new wheel. Glad I did not have to wait for a new machine.
I sharpened 1 chains for my 026 , it is so worn I think the 1/8 wheel would be better for it. It does not sharpen both sides equally but there is also an adjustment to center the chain in the vise. That will make a big difference. Thanks for all the info on this unit guys.
THis site is great beause of you members!
Greg Harrison


----------



## olyman

greg--done all the mods spoken of earlier in this thread???


----------



## Greg Harrison

olyman said:


> greg--done all the mods spoken of earlier in this thread???



Have not had time. but I will get them done. I think I am on the list for the washer also.
Thanks 
Greg Harrison


----------



## zemmo

GAPULPER said:


> Well, you guys made another sale for Northern. Just placed my order after finding this thread. Had considered buying a grinder but didn't want to spend $250+ for something decent. Look forward to checking it out.
> 
> Anyone ever purchase reject wood from a sawmill for conversion to firewood? I don't know of a much better way to get a workout sharpening chains. We cut up a little over 25 tons of the metal impregnated oak and hickory.
> 
> After hand sharpening about 30 chains over the past few weeks with some severely damaged I'm ready to try something new. Thanks!



Where'd the metal that impregnated the wood come from? Are you cutting logs or planks? The local mill here sells log ends and other rejects for $10/load. I've been thinking about getting a load, but hate to get something that dulls chains like crazy. Anyone else have any experience with this?


----------



## JohnCusickjr

I come up with nothing when I do a search for Northern Tool looking for the grinder. Can someone post or email me a link?
Thanks
John


----------



## Greg Harrison

JohnCusickjr said:


> I come up with nothing when I do a search for Northern Tool looking for the grinder. Can someone post or email me a link?
> Thanks
> John




At the main page, go to the search and type in "saw chain sharpener". that should take you to the correct page>
Greg Harrison


----------



## JohnCusickjr

thanks.


----------



## tawilson

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200327449_200327449


----------



## olyman

or go to first post of this thread---


----------



## JohnCusickjr

Got it.
Appreciate it.
John


----------



## olyman

john--you looked--did you buy???


----------



## JohnCusickjr

NO, not yet. (Waiting for the account to recover from the MS460 setup I just invested in...HA)
I'm still gathering input on them, grinders that is... From what I've seen thus far the Maxx looks to be a good compromise of $ and quality. I tend to spend for the best, carefully used if possible, and then care for tools and hold on to them for a LONG time. I can't tolerate lousy castings, bottom dollar knockoffs.
Must be that father the toolmaker in me...
So I oftren wait and see...


----------



## olyman

this will do everythign the maxx will do--for much less dinero--and your chances of finding a used maxx--since they aint been out that long--are slim and none--me thinks need to talk to accountant--and purchase---!!!!!:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## RaisedByWolves

John, take it from a toolmaker (though not your dad), this grinder is a steal at $100, you wont be disappointed.


----------



## GAPULPER

zemmo said:


> Where'd the metal that impregnated the wood come from? Are you cutting logs or planks? The local mill here sells log ends and other rejects for $10/load. I've been thinking about getting a load, but hate to get something that dulls chains like crazy. Anyone else have any experience with this?



We're cutting saw logs ranging in diameter from 14" to 24". Metal comes mostly from farmers fences or hunters deer stands. We paid $7 per ton or $35 for a dump truck load for wood that has been there several months and is dry enough to burn well this season.


----------



## olyman

galpuper--metal sucks--but insulators are worse---like others--been there---carbide might cut thru the steel--but not the insulator---dang---


----------



## Greg Harrison

Finally had time to make a good try at sharpening a chain witht the new NT grinder.
It did a great job. I have cleaned up the vise and sanded as the tips advised.
Only problem is there is a lot of play in the vise. When resetting it for grinding the opposing cutter, I carefully tried to center it on the base. Seems to work great. I will measure the cutter length tonight to see just how well it did do in that regard. I am sure the washers will help in makeing it easier to turn and longer lasting.
Greg Harrison


----------



## olyman

john cusick--you order it yet??? quit procrastinating----


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Greg Harrison said:


> Only problem is there is a lot of play in the vise.
> Greg Harrison





Greg, the spring shim that you will be getting as shown in post #187 will eliminate most of the side to side play in the vise base.


The rest of the play is nessary for the vise to rotate freely and will be cancelled fairly well by the springs.... Umm..... Springyness.



Has anyone recieved their kit yet? Have it installed?


----------



## zemmo

RaisedByWolves said:


> Greg, the spring shim that you will be getting as shown in post #187 will eliminate most of the side to side play in the vise base.
> 
> 
> The rest of the play is nessary for the vise to rotate freely and will be cancelled fairly well by the springs.... Umm..... Springyness.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone recieved their kit yet? Have it installed?



I haven't got my kit yet, but then I haven't received the grinder either, so they're in a race. I just want to say that your guys rock the casbah for specing and making these parts. Thanks.


----------



## stihl025

zemmo said:


> I just want to say that your guys rock the casbah



I thought that phrase was "stop the cat box"? 

???

LOL, Sorry...


----------



## Greg Harrison

RBW,
Thanks for the reply. You seem to have anticipated all the problems! You guys were right this is one heck of a little machine for 99.00 dollars. Thanks again in advance for going to this trouble. Not many groups on the net seem as tight as this group does.
Thanks again
Greg Harrison


----------



## drogueman

I have not recieved my kit yet, sure hope they didn't forget me.


----------



## Deoje

Me too... Not fussing just hope I made it one the list.


----------



## SuperDave

*am I too late?*

Stihl 041S,

It looks like I'm pretty late to this party, can I still get on the list to get a gasket?

Thanks,
Dave


----------



## olyman

gasket???? you mean the base shim--and the internal base shim----


----------



## woodchux

Over 13,000 views on this thread..... must be one popular grinder


----------



## olyman

it is--own one yet???? computer user really set the sales of these on end!!!!!


----------



## tawilson

Yeah he did. I can't remember, did he get one?


----------



## dimanager

WOW, what a thread. Glad to hear every one is happy with their grinder. Just a couple of tips I was told when I got mine.
1. Use a tire marking pencil on the wheel every so often when grinding. It is supposed to help cool the wheel down.
2. I'm sure this is in the manual but no one has mentioned it yet. I flip the wheel over every other chain to keep the wheel from loosing its shape to quickly.

Hope these help.
Sam


----------



## olyman

woodchux--get one yet--or is sale now over????


----------



## bytehoven

Price is still $99.99 and it reads (in stock).


----------



## woodchux

olyman said:


> woodchux--get one yet--or is sale now over????


I got one when this thread first came out. It's sharpened around 20 chains already. I am about to order a second grinder to leave set up for smaller chains. That way i wont have to change out the disks for different size chains. And i can use up my $10 gift certificate.


----------



## MS-310

Had them ship the grinder to my shop and just got it today....cant wait to get home and read this thread again...How do you read the depth gages
(rakers) I havent really tryed but I dont know how to set them up right. I use an full comp stihl 3/8 chain..Thanks alot guys


----------



## Greg Harrison

MS-310 said:


> Had them ship the grinder to my shop and just got it today....cant wait to get home and read this thread again...How do you read the depth gages
> (rakers) I havent really tryed but I dont know how to set them up right. I use an full comp stihl 3/8 chain..Thanks alot guys




Glad to hear you got one too. Easiest way to take care of the depth gauges is to buy a tool that just fits on the blade and gives you a visual if the gauge is too high or low. Oregon and Stihl makes them, they are inexpensive.
Greg Harrison


----------



## stihl025

Got my shims on Saturday. They work great. Fit right in with no problems. How much do I owe again? I think it was like 3 bucks, but doesn't seem enough for the workmanship.


----------



## Stihl 041S

*3 Bucks*

3 dollars in unmarked bills in a plain brown wrapper.


----------



## stihl025

Stihl 041S said:


> 3 dollars in unmarked bills in a plain brown wrapper.



Consecutive or non-consecutive serial numbers?


----------



## Deoje

Got mine today. They look great.

3 unmarked nonconsecutive bills will be mailed out tomorrow. 

Thanks


----------



## SuperDave

stihl025 said:


> Consecutive or non-consecutive serial numbers?



How do you do that? Mine all have the same serial number :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## LarryTheCableGuy

*I'm in...*

Dang you guys!!

I just ordered mine - still $99.99!

:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## PA Plumber

LarryTheCableGuy said:


> Dang you guys!!
> 
> I just ordered mine - still $99.99!
> 
> :hmm3grin2orange:




Good for you!
The first chain I shapened for myself cuts very well and I haven't done the mods yet.


----------



## zemmo

Just to let everyone know, I got my grinder and my shim/washer kit, put 'em all together and sharpened chains. I've never had a grinder before, always hand-filed, so this is new for me, but I think the grinder is a freakin' steal at $100. I've only done .325 so far, but it does a great job, although I do still find that I have to adjust the stop very slightly when I go from left to right cutters. Not a big deal, only takes a few seconds. I don't have a micrometer or anything precise enough to measure the relevant pieces, most of my tools are in AK. 

Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this little project.


----------



## Dok

I returned the Harbor Freight grinder today and ordered the Northern Tool grinder. What was I thinking? The :censored: HF grinder is junk, never lined up the same twice. Go ahead and  me!
Brad


----------



## olyman

dok---nope--no one rail on ya--the way we all learn--but i knew off these years ago--used to sell chainsaws--just never bought one till computeruser started this thread---woooowza----and the mods--guys on this board always thinking---


----------



## Dok

I'm wondering two things- how many of these Northern has sold the past month and how many sales has HF lost? I bet this one forum has been responsible for a a lot of grinders being sold at Northern. Someone there is probably scratching their noggins!

Are the washers/spacers still available? I need to catch up with this thread today.
Brad


----------



## olyman

Dok said:


> I'm wondering two things- how many of these Northern has sold the past month and how many sales has HF lost? I bet this one forum has been responsible for a a lot of grinders being sold at Northern. Someone there is probably scratching their noggins!
> 
> thanks to computeruser----- A LOT---never could get a complete count on the one thread someone posted--but im very glad comp posted this---


----------



## chuckiehow

Any rule against ordering the SS washers first and then the grinder at a later date? I know they might discontinue the sale, but I guess I better get on the bandwagon. Can I get my order in?

Not a late bloomer here, just took this long to save my quarters.


----------



## MS-310

My sharpener didnt come with any papers....witch that suck. I guess I dont know what angles to go with, 3/8 STIHL chain full chisel (I CANT REMEMBER IF ITS RM OR RS) its not the rounded edge chain. I used the wheel at 60 and the chain bed at 35 and 0 deg bed tillt. IT cuts very well is that close???

Thanks again.

Jack


----------



## tawilson

Go to the Oregon site and download the manual for the 511. It's all there. And when you need parts or new wheels, get them from Oregon. It's the only polite thing to do.


----------



## tawilson

chuckiehow said:


> Any rule against ordering the SS washers first and then the grinder at a later date? I know they might discontinue the sale, but I guess I better get on the bandwagon. Can I get my order in?
> 
> Not a late bloomer here, just took this long to save my quarters.


Definitely not allowed. No, wait, I just remembered, there ain't no stinkin' rules around here.


----------



## Stihl 041S

I beleive the only rule is:there are no rules!!!!!

(Butch Cassidy)


----------



## rmihalek

I sharpened a few chains prior to installing the shim and spring and I've done a couple more chains since the installation. There is a noticeable difference in how easily the base rotates and there is less play in the base. I think this was a great example of collaboration (and mechanical insight) here on AS!

I've been mic'ing some of the teeth after grinding, and there seems to be about 0.010" variation in length. I'll try to get some data up on here with more precise numbers: mean and standard deviation.


----------



## deerlakejens

UPS just brought mine and it arrived in good shape, no broken wheels or missing parts. As soon as the shim and springs get here, I'm in business!


----------



## dieseldodge

Well Im a little late to the party on this on biu I ordered My grinder tonight. Hope its not back ordered. Who Do I contact to get the shims for the grinder.
jason


----------



## PA Plumber

dieseldodge said:


> Well Im a little late to the party on this on biu I ordered My grinder tonight. Hope its not back ordered. Who Do I contact to get the shims for the grinder.
> jason



Give Stihl 041S a shout. The price is about $20.00, give or take a few bucks.

Hey Rob, I don't need a cut off of this!


----------



## tawilson

deerlakejens said:


> UPS just brought mine and it arrived in good shape, no broken wheels or missing parts. As soon as the shim and springs get here, I'm in business!


I wouldn't wait for them. It works just fine without. Just do the little tuneup cleanup tips posted.


----------



## PA Plumber

tawilson said:


> I wouldn't wait for them. It works just fine without. Just do the little tuneup cleanup tips posted.



Good post. I used mine before the shim & washer were installed. Take a little care when switching from one side to the other. You may have to adjust the depth screw for the back of the cutter a little to keep the teeth even.


----------



## Dok

MS-310 said:


> My sharpener didnt come with any papers....witch that suck. I guess I dont know what angles to go with, 3/8 STIHL chain full chisel (I CANT REMEMBER IF ITS RM OR RS) its not the rounded edge chain. I used the wheel at 60 and the chain bed at 35 and 0 deg bed tillt. IT cuts very well is that close???
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Jack



You can get the Northern Tool manual here:
http://www.northerntool.com/downloads/manuals/193020.pdf

TAWilson is right, the Oregon manual has a lot more info in it. Thanks for the heads-up on that!

Brad


----------



## RaisedByWolves

PA Plumber said:


> Give Stihl 041S a shout. The price is about $20.00, give or take a few bucks.
> 
> Hey Rob, I don't need a cut off of this!




$20?:jawdrop:


----------



## olyman

rbw--paplumber said something about a cut of this amount !!!!???:greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw:


----------



## Urbicide

PA Plumber said:


> Give Stihl 041S a shout. The price is about $20.00, give or take a few bucks.
> 
> Hey Rob, I don't need a cut off of this!



If the washer and shim came packaged in a Stihl bag that would probably be cheap.


----------



## olyman

Urbicide said:


> If the washer and shim came packaged in a Stihl bag that would probably be cheap.


 muwahahahaha--aint that the truth------


----------



## PA Plumber

SORRY. The $20.00 was in fun. So to clear this up...

If there are any available the going rate was $3.00 to cover material and cost of shipping. (It's beyond reasonable by the way.) 

Again, no drama was intended here, please accept my apology.:blush:


----------



## tawilson

Oh yeah, olyman just jogged my memory on something. On this page is a link to download the manual for the Northern grinder.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200327449_200327449
Crap, that link goes to the main grinder page. Then go to the included tab, there will be the link to download the manual. It won't go directly there for some obscene reason.
Double crap. Dok already posted a link to it. I thought he put up a link to the Oregon manual. Hey, it's not my fault I'm burnt.


----------



## LarryTheCableGuy

My grinder arrived this afternoon. Looks like everything is there. Box was marked "Re-Package".

Wheeeee!

.


----------



## kevinj

Just got mine this afternoon.
No damage. Looks good.
Thanks for all the tech. support from all you guys.
I'm assembling mine tonight.
Do ya wonder if computeruser might have stock in this product ?
hhhmmmmm ??


----------



## livewire

kevinj said:


> Just got mine this afternoon.
> No damage. Looks good.
> Thanks for all the tech. support from all you guys.
> I'm assembling mine tonight.
> Do ya wonder if computeruser might have stock in this product ?
> hhhmmmmm ??



Don't forget to order the SS washers, kevinj!!! 

Congrats on the grinder. You got yours fast!


----------



## olyman

i was a dedicated hand filer--till this--no more--


----------



## Dok

I wish mine would show up, it's lost in ups-land. It shipped on monday, didn't start tracking until Thursday and says I can expect it on Valentines Day of all days. Valentines Day isn't exactly the best day for a box from Northern to show up :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: 
Brad


----------



## PA Plumber

Dok said:


> I wish mine would show up, it's lost in ups-land. It shipped on monday, didn't start tracking until Thursday and says I can expect it on Valentines Day of all days. Valentines Day isn't exactly the best day for a box from Northern to show up :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:
> Brad




The grinder is red. Maybe that will help.


----------



## kevinj

Hey I'm just wondering,
What I've done is mount the grinder onto a small 12 x 30 x 1.125
piece of laminated osb. this way,
it can be moved from the garage
to the basement or wherever.
And then clamped into place.
Any opinions ?? 

WhatamI Goofy??


----------



## livewire

kevinj said:


> Hey I'm just wondering,
> What I've done is mount the grinder onto a small 12 x 30 x 1.125
> piece of laminated osb. this way,
> it can be moved from the garage
> to the basement or wherever.
> And then clamped into place.
> Any opinions ??
> 
> WhatamI Goofy??



I'd say as long as your clamps are tight enough it's okay! It gets old using a wobbly grinder.

*"WhatamI Goofy??"* Do you have to ask??? JK


----------



## LarryTheCableGuy

kevinj said:


> Hey I'm just wondering,
> What I've done is mount the grinder onto a small 12 x 30 x 1.125
> piece of laminated osb. this way,
> it can be moved from the garage
> to the basement or wherever.
> And then clamped into place.
> Any opinions ??
> 
> WhatamI Goofy??



That is similar to how mine is mounted.

.


----------



## kevinj

livewire said:


> I'd say as long as your clamps are tight enough it's okay! It gets old using a wobbly grinder.
> 
> *"WhatamI Goofy??"* Do you have to ask??? JK



Well Yeah DUH>>>>>>>

Whatarya, Goofy ??


----------



## olyman

whatever works--just so the osb doesnt break--i dont like the stuff myself---


----------



## kevinj

livewire said:


> I'd say as long as your clamps are tight enough it's okay! It gets old using a wobbly grinder.
> 
> *"WhatamI Goofy??"* Do you have to ask??? JK




Hey live,
JUst goofin withya.


----------



## livewire

kevinj said:


> Hey live,
> JUst goofin withya.



...but I am truly goofy! been hit in the head too much!

I don't talk too good kneether...


----------



## rmihalek

*welders?*

Anyone here willing to weld up a tubular steel stand for these Northern Tool grinders? I'd like one about eye level....

Tell me how much you think it would cost.


----------



## ericjeeper

*I have mine mounted under my cabinets*

Basically right at eye level. computeruser posted a photo of it in the Indiana GTG post, I have it mounted to a 2x6 that will slide in and out to store it away when not in use. Do you have any Upper cabinets in your garage?


----------



## tawilson

Ok, here's the page with the link to the Oregon grinder manual. It wasn't so hard to find aferall.
http://www.oregonchain.com/accessories.htm


----------



## tawilson

Seeing as I just posted a link to a pretty good sized pdf. file, I'll post this link again to a nice, light, quicker than Acrobat program for viewing them:
http://www.foxitsoftware.com/


----------



## charlesfarm

*Ordered it yesterday...*

After reading all the rave reviews of the Northern grinder, I ordered up one yesterday afternoon! You guys are really costing me a lot of money.

Just in the last two weeks:

MS361, MS250, Chaps, Bar Oil, Chains, Mix, Files, and carrying cases -- $1142
Steel toe leather Carhartt boots -- $79
Northern Tool Grinder -- $116.26
The look on my wife's face when she goes to balance the checkbook -- PRICELESS

Thanks all, you're a great bunch!

God bless,
Chris


----------



## parrisw

Where is the link for the post on the mods to do to this grinder, I remember looking through the post, had a bunch of pics, but cant find it now. I just got my grinder today and want to do the things mentioned.

Thanks

Will


----------



## livewire

parrisw said:


> Where is the link for the post on the mods to do to this grinder, I remember looking through the post, had a bunch of pics, but cant find it now. I just got my grinder today and want to do the things mentioned.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Will



You could start here #187 ish


http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39995&page=13

Lotsa reading after that.


----------



## parrisw

Hey thanks allot man. I put the grinder together today, with no shims, have not gotten them yet, but I did sand down the 2 spots, and I sharpened 4 chains tonight, it works really well. I LOVE it.


----------



## bytehoven

Wait until you put the washer and shims in...  The grinder becomes very solid and smooth.

I can say thanks enough to the folks behind the washer upgrade.


----------



## parrisw

ya I figured it would be better with the shims, however I was too excited to not try it out, and it did a good job, just had to take your time.

Thanks

Will


----------



## bytehoven

I did the pre-washer upgrade as well.

Infact, the washer will perform better WITH the sanding away of the paint where the two surfaces meet the washer.

So anyone buying the grinder and waiting on the washer/shim upgrade, should perform the other tweaks discovered for the grinder.


----------



## zemmo

*Grinding depth gauges*

I'm finally getting around to reading the Oregon manual, and see that the instructions for taking down the depth gauges involve using the 1/4" wheel at a 60 degree angle, then shaping said wheel with dressing brick. Why set the head at a 60 degree angle instead of just setting at 0 degrees and lowering the arm straight down? TIA


----------



## PA Plumber

zemmo said:


> I'm finally getting around to reading the Oregon manual, and see that the instructions for taking down the depth gauges involve using the 1/4" wheel at a 60 degree angle, then shaping said wheel with dressing brick. Why set the head at a 60 degree angle instead of just setting at 0 degrees and lowering the arm straight down? TIA



I didn't read the oregon manual before I did a few chains. I didn't use any angle and lowered straight down onto the raker using the largest of the wheels. My chains have been cutting great. Maybe the would be even better if I would leave the "ramp" on the raker.

Also, Another thank you for all the information and infomercials on this unit. It is a very nice grinder and excellent when all the mods are done.


----------



## vegaome

Howdy All,

I broke down and ordered one today. I couldn't keep off the threads and they still had it at $99. If they would of raised the price I could of made it. I'm hoping I will spend less time sharpening and more time cutting. Great threads by the way. Thanks to all.

v/r

Mike


----------



## parrisw

Got to try out the saws today after sharpening with the grinder. And wow, its great like cutting through butter, I can get them sharp with a file, but not this good. I am very happy.


----------



## LarryTheCableGuy

When my grinder arrived the other day my wife saw the word "chainsaw" on the box and asked (in a pleasant tone) "is that a new saw?"

Sounded like permission to me!!


----------



## PA Plumber

parrisw said:


> Got to try out the saws today after sharpening with the grinder. And wow, its great like cutting through butter, I can get them sharp with a file, but not this good. I am very happy.



Hey, nothing like good ole USA marketing on a product made in China to make a Canadian Happy. Now that's good stuff there.


----------



## parrisw

> Sounded like permission to me!!



Sometimes it's better to beg for forgiveness then ask for permission!!


> Hey, nothing like good ole USA marketing on a product made in China to make a Canadian Happy. Now that's good stuff there.



HE HE HE, made me chuckle!! Thats right though! And we do have are share of chinese made goods here in Canada.


----------



## deerlakejens

Just finished testing my first sharpened chain and have to say it threw some nice sized chips! The only problem I had was on the depth guages. I think I dressed the wheel correctly but I end up with a flat depth guage. Shouldn't the leading edge be a bit lower?


----------



## parrisw

Yes I think it will make the top a bit flat, but your could round the front edge a bit with a file.


----------



## tawilson

parrisw said:


> Yes I think it will make the top a bit flat, but your could round the front edge a bit with a file.



That's how I do it.


----------



## parrisw

Two other things about this grinder that could use attention. 

1: the clamp for the chain, I find I really have to push hard on it to hold the chain tight, so the cutter doesn't move when the grinding wheel hits it, anybody else notice this.

2:The chain stop, it has a little play, if it could be tightened up a bit, possible would cut down on the different tooth length's.

Anybody address these issues yet? If not I may have to think of something.

Thanks


----------



## deerlakejens

1: the clamp for the chain, I find I really have to push hard on it to hold the chain tight, so the cutter doesn't move when the grinding wheel hits it, anybody else notice this.

Be sure to center the chain in the rail with the allen wrench before you tighten the cam, this allows you to narrow the gap in the rail so very little effort is needed to lock the chain in position. The Oregon 511A manual explains how to do this properly.

As for the chain stop, mine seems like the spring holding it in place could be stiffer.


----------



## LarryTheCableGuy

deerlakejens said:


> As for the chain stop, mine seems like the spring holding it in place could be stiffer.



I agree. That would (hopefully) compensate for the slightly sloppy fit of the chain stop on it's shaft. I haven't found a suitable spring yet.

.


----------



## parrisw

yes I am using the allen bolt to fit the gauge of chain, then tighten with cam bolt. I will take another look though to make sure I am doing it right.

Thanks


----------



## dingo

charlesfarm said:


> After reading all the rave reviews of the Northern grinder, I ordered up one yesterday afternoon! You guys are really costing me a lot of money.
> 
> Just in the last two weeks:
> 
> MS361, MS250, Chaps, Bar Oil, Chains, Mix, Files, and carrying cases -- $1142
> Steel toe leather Carhartt boots -- $79
> Northern Tool Grinder -- $116.26
> The look on my wife's face when she goes to balance the checkbook -- PRICELESS
> 
> Thanks all, you're a great bunch!
> 
> God bless,
> Chris




Same here, just ordered one you guys sold me, Northern ought to be paying this site royaltys:deadhorse:


----------



## RaisedByWolves

LarryTheCableGuy said:


> I agree. That would (hopefully) compensate for the slightly sloppy fit of the chain stop on it's shaft. I haven't found a suitable spring yet.
> 
> .





I pondered this for a while, adjusted the nut that holds the shaft on the brace (it was loose from the factory).


I dont think this will influence cutter length much as long as you you pull back on the chain to seat it against the stop with relativly the same force for each cutter.



The slop sure isint too sexy, but as long as the cutter winds up in the same place every time it should do.


----------



## olyman

rbw--while there is some slop--it sure beats a 300 dollar grinder!!:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## PA Plumber

I think the grinder is great.  Didn't even think the "slop" was a big deal. 

I do try to be consistent when I pull the chain back against the stop. (Not a machinist here, just a plumber) 

I visually can't tell the teeth length are different when using as rule. A mic (don't have one) would surely show it. :Eye: :Eye:


----------



## rmihalek

Try pulling the chain back against the stop and then pushing down on the top of the cutter with your index finger. While holding the cutter down in the groove, tighten the cam.

Also, I took out the factory spacers that separate the bar rails and made up some thinner ones. I think the factory spacers were 0.085" and the thinner ones around 0.060". There's less play all around and less work for the cam to do when tightened.


----------



## kevinj

I know everybody hates stupid questions,
so here goes.
When grinding the depth guages,on the chain,
shouldn't you use a flat grinding wheel ?
I cant download the PDF format,for the instructions. (sucks) 
And it probably states that in there.

There should be an icon for stupid questions.


----------



## Urbicide

See post#387. opcorn:


----------



## kevinj

Urbicide said:


> See post#387. opcorn:



Thanks urbicide, 
that makes sense,
more surface area.


----------



## kevinj

So, now, to do that,
Is it safe to put the dressing block against the back of the chain clamping unit
at 0 degrees ? And then slowly cut the grinding wheel ?


----------



## charlesfarm

*I Got It ... It Got Mine Today!!!*

Now I feel like Ralphie in A Christmas Story when his "Little Orphan Annie Secret Decoder Pin" shows up in the mail. However, I don't think the wife would appreciate me sharpening chains while sitting on the toilet! :biggrinbounce2: 

Gonna try it out on my 3/8 chain that had a nice encounter with a nail in a log last week. Lots to grind on that one to get past the damage and set the length of all the cutters.

God bless,
Chris


----------



## tawilson

Just don't put your eye out with that thing. Oh wait, that was the BB gun.


----------



## 88gmc1

*N/T Grinder shipped to Canada?*

just curious as to the shipping cost of this grinder to Canada with UPS and border brokerage fees etc.? Anyone know if N/T.ca out of Cambridge Ont. carry the same grinder for the Sale price? 
Thanks for your patience.


----------



## olyman

Gonna try it out on my 3/8 chain that had a nice encounter with a nail in a log last week. Lots to grind on that one to get past the damage and set the length of all the cutters.

God bless,
Chris[/QUOTE] ummmm--dont grind the snot out of the chain--just sharpen like regular--take just off what you need on the non-damaged cutters---and touch the bad one the same---ive done this before---it wont cut quite as fast--but--all the cutters will be the same length---youll eventually get the bad spot out---


----------



## charlesfarm

Olyman,

Thanks for the advice on grinding the chain. I thought I'd have to grind past all the tooth damage and then grind the other cutters the same length.

By the way, where in Iowa do you live? I live just outside of Murray (10 miles west of Osceola).

God bless,
Chris


----------



## olyman

30 miles west of waterloo----aplington


----------



## olyman

and heres another question--how many of you that bought these grinders--got the $10 gift money back on them????


----------



## PA Plumber

olyman said:


> and heres another question--how many of you that bought these grinders--got the $10 gift money back on them????



Not me. 

Wish I would have though. My purchase was only $99.99 before shipping. Maybe that's why. I think the order had to total $100.00before shipping.


----------



## tawilson

olyman said:


> and heres another question--how many of you that bought these grinders--got the $10 gift money back on them????



Nope, I knew I wouldn't be using it, so didn't keep track of it and lost it. Then a week later decided to order another grinder. Hey, where'd beating your head against the wall smiley go.


----------



## kevinj

tawilson said:


> Nope, I knew I wouldn't be using it, so didn't keep track of it and lost it. Then a week later decided to order another grinder. Hey, where'd beating your head against the wall smiley go.



Here ya go.:bang:


----------



## precaud

If you're letting a gift cert decide whether to buy this thing or not, methinks you're missing the boat. Here's a very real angle:
If you think our trade policies with China are going to remain unchanged and as unbalanced as they currently are (no tarrifs on imports, but tarrifs on our stuff into China), which makes their stuff really cheap here, then you should NOT buy this grinder.
My hunch is, in not too long a time, you'll look back and wish you'd done it. Get 'em while they're still cheap.


----------



## olyman

precaud--if you ordered them before dec 25--you got a $10 gift card--i ordered another one the day after christmas--said no dice---chumps---oh well---it didnt make my decision-----wonder if a certain store is selling any oregons?????:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## precaud

olyman, my remark wasn't directed at you. It was really just putting matter this into a different perspective.


----------



## hokiebob1

You know, I started out cruising Baileys for some new chains and when I started researching their chains, I happened across this thread--so now, you guessed it, I ordered the NT grinder. I've been hand filing for a while and wanted a grinder.....you know the story, didn't want to shell out $300. Thanks to all for the free advice. When it shows up, I'll make the mods and have some fun. If any of the washers/shims are still available, I'd certainly be up for purchasing some.

thanks
bob


----------



## tawilson

hokiebob1 said:


> You know, I started out cruising Baileys for some new chains and when I started researching their chains, I happened across this thread--so now, you guessed it, I ordered the NT grinder. I've been hand filing for a while and wanted a grinder.....you know the story, didn't want to shell out $300. Thanks to all for the free advice. When it shows up, I'll make the mods and have some fun. If any of the washers/shims are still available, I'd certainly be up for purchasing some.
> 
> thanks
> bob



Get two, they're small.


----------



## olyman

tom--get two---sharpeners???---or shim sets????????????????   --or both!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## tawilson

Course I'm just being a hog about the whole thing.


----------



## 88gmc1

*grinders on e-bay*

seems these grinders are being sold on e-bay between 99.00 - 155.00


----------



## Dok

tawilson said:


> Get two, they're small.



That's what I did, figured the second would make a great Christmas or birthday present. Or one for 3/8, one for 325, oh, the 170 runs pico, the rakers....
Brad


----------



## snapper

*so whats the verdict on these*

noticed northern has them for 99 dollars. What is the verdict on these? do they work all right? I dont sharpen alot but i hate to pay some one to sharpen them. So do you all reccomend them??

later chris


----------



## Sawin

Stihl 041S, Is the shim/washer set still available? Sent you a couple of PMs. Just wondering if you rec'd them?


----------



## grandpatractor

Sawin said:


> Stihl 041S, Is the shim/washer set still available? Sent you a couple of PMs. Just wondering if you rec'd them?



Don't worry sawin, he's a busy guy. 

I finally got my grinder delivered today. Everything arrived safe and sound. just have to mod it and put it together, after I finish 3 other projects.:bang: :bang:


----------



## Sawin

I'm sure he is busy, and I don't mind waiting. Just want to make sure I'm on his list is all.


----------



## olyman

sawin--stihl 041 is dependable--hes busy----


----------



## olyman

snapper--you read the whole thread??? if so--i lot have bought them--just read all the way thru the thread for the enhancement mods----:rockn:


----------



## kevinj

*Grinding safety chain on grinder...*

I've got a couple loops of safety chain.
What do ya guys think of using the Northern 
chain sharpener to grind down the bumpers ?
Good idea or probably not ? 
Is it even possible or worthwhile ?


----------



## PA Plumber

kevinj said:


> I've got a couple loops of safety chain.
> What do ya guys think of using the Northern
> chain sharpener to grind down the bumpers ?
> Good idea or probably not ?
> Is it even possible or worthwhile ?



I adjust the guide rails so they are fairly close together. 90 and 0 degrees, lower my wheel and very slowly pull the chain through to knock down the safety links. Works like a charm. I use the largest of the grinding wheels to do this.


----------



## hokiebob1

*just in.....*

Ordered the grinder on Monday, showed up today (Thursday). Apparently many before me were delivered pretty banged up but mine looked like a brand new box-not even a dinged corner. All pieces seemed to be there. I haven't put it together yet, but did spend 10 minutes cleaning up the turntable and it made a huge difference. My guess is that it will work fine w/o the shim/washer kits, but there is a small bit of slop in the tolerance. I would still try the shim set--may look at work tomorrow for some .010 shimstock to run around the outside. Looks to be well made and pretty sturdy. Thanks again to all that reviewed this item-lots of tree work this weekend for sure.


----------



## PA Plumber

hb1, 
The two mods regarding the shim and washer do change the dynamics of the grinder. Those two mods make it sweeeeeet. By installing the shim, I don't have to measure the teeth length anymore when changing sides on the chain. The washer definitely improves rotation friction.


----------



## precaud

Last night I spent a couple hours with dremel and files grinding down the bumpers on a 16" stihl safety chain. Last time I'll ever do that. Pain in the bu++. I say keep it for a backup and buy a new one.


----------



## hokiebob1

Thanks PA. I suspected as much. I'm new to grinding but am an engineer by trade. For $100, this seems to be a good deal. Anyone have an idea how long the wheels will last? I should have some shim stock to help w/lateral movement but am not sure I can make the washer.


----------



## hokiebob1

*Update on NT grinder*

started to dress the 1/4" to do the rakers and the wheel shattered as soon as it hit the stone. I visually inspected it for cracks and didn't see any, but clearly it was cracked. Also picked up the 1/8" and it broke in my hand. I suppose it how they are packaged--1/8" and 1/4" on outside and 3/16" in middle.

I'll say this--I added some .010" shimstock to the table circumference and a little synthetic lube (kinda like WD40 but tons better) and you guys are right--that table is perfect.

One other thing I noticed--most fasterners on the unit are loose--the locking cam post was loose alone with the other adjusters. Minor details for such a good deal.

Hopefully NT will send two replacement stones--anyone w/experience w/this?

b


----------



## RaisedByWolves

That is a good example of why you should allways "Ring" the wheel before each use.


This was with the 1/4" wheel? Your lucky to have your fingers intact as there are great forces at work when these come apart.

A general feeling in the trades is what a grinder takes, you dont get back. Slice your finger off with a saw, they can clean up the ragged ends and sew it back.


Grind it off with a grinder and not only does the portion that is cut away turn to meat-dust, the ends of the cut on each side are usually cauterized and they have to cut away so much extra that its allmost impossable to sew your digit back.


Contact Northern and tell them what happened, they may just send you out some new wheels.




Be carefull.


----------



## hokiebob1

Yes, it was w/the 1/4" wheel. Actually the guard contained all of the wheel pieces, although they all got jammed up in there and stalled the motor--the dressing stone is another story-shot in many pieces across the garage--safety glasses are always a must when grinding--no ifs ands or buts about it. Gloves too.


----------



## olyman

we all--anyone that runs any type of a grinder--needs to wear glasses--and stay out of the direction of force when grinding--so if the wheel blows--your not in the line of fire---as rbw says--grinder doesnt give back!!!! im wondering if you have some sort of burr--that when you tighten the wheel--its cracking them?????


----------



## Stihl 041S

Are you using a paper/cardboard washer on each side?


----------



## hokiebob1

Stihl, I'm not using cardboard washers on the wheel. The cracks don't appear to originate in the center--the 1/8" simply broke in my hand, the 1/4" broke into several large pieces then got jammed into the guard, but the center was still intact. That said, some sort of crushable washer on either side of the wheel makes good sense to ensure it doesn't get overtightened, but it needs to be tight enough to not slip on the arbor.

I don't understand the failure other than the wheels must have been cracked. Someone above mentioned "ringing" in new wheels---I'm curious what exactly is meant by that--it this simply tapping on it to see if it falls apart?

I called NT today and they are shipping out all three replacement stones--based on the p/n they quoted, I think they are shipping original Oregon stones rather than the aftermarket ones that came with the grinder--you know, those ones that are ~$27 a piece on their website.


----------



## Stihl 041S

*ringing*

Yup, you hold the center and tap the wheel, it will ring or go thunk. You will know. It seems like you have a bad batch of wheels.

An old tool and cutter grinder,Rob.


----------



## bigair

Add me to the list. I just purchased the grinder. At seven bucks a pop to sharpen a chain this thing should pay for itself in no time.


----------



## olyman

well bigair--you fired it and sharpened a chain yet??????????


----------



## Evin

I got my sharpener last week, but I was away until yesterday. Pulled it out and assembled it using the tricks here to clean up the burrs. I attempted my first sharpening and will try the chain this weekend I hope. I did try to use the brick to create a 60 degree surface for the grinding the rackers down. I was not very successful in using the brick though. How long should I expect to grind at the brick to get a flat surface on the grinding wheel? Also I would like to see if someone could create a video on setting up the grinder to sharpen a chain and grind down the rakers????


----------



## jhellwig

Heh, you can buy these things from Amazon now. :monkey:


----------



## olyman

say what??--from amazon??? strange---


----------



## bigair

olyman said:


> well bigair--you fired it and sharpened a chain yet??????????



Not yet, It is still in transit. I should have it tommorow. I'll probably try it out Friday after work. Saturdays are my cutting day, so I need some sharpened chains to try out.


----------



## RaisedByWolves

Evin said:


> I got my sharpener last week, but I was away until yesterday. Pulled it out and assembled it using the tricks here to clean up the burrs. I attempted my first sharpening and will try the chain this weekend I hope. I did try to use the brick to create a 60 degree surface for the grinding the rackers down. I was not very successful in using the brick though. How long should I expect to grind at the brick to get a flat surface on the grinding wheel? Also I would like to see if someone could create a video on setting up the grinder to sharpen a chain and grind down the rakers????






The dressing stick they give you is junk, that is to say, it works but isint near as good as the ones Im used to.


It will take time, and a LOT of the dressing sticks life to constantly dress the wheel to different angles/shapes.


You may do well to get a 4th wheel and leave it perminantly angled.


.


----------



## precaud

RaisedByWolves said:


> The dressing stick they give you is junk, that is to say, it works but isint near as good as the ones Im used to.



Recommendations on a good one? And a place that sells them that also sells file cards?  Paying shipping individually on each of these small items adds up quick...


----------



## Stihl 041S

*dressing sticks,kool tool, file card*

Go to ENCO, they carry all that stuff and shipping can be free with the right code, i posted a thread on it once but not a person looked so I let it drop, I'll get it for you and post it.

Rob

free code for March :WBNRM7


----------



## precaud

Perfect - thanks Rob!


----------



## MS-310

I need to find the right angles to stihl chain.
thanks


----------



## hokiebob1

Rob, thanks for the shipping code and ENCO heads up. I checked it out and the code works if you purchase >$50 in merchandise.

I'm still not sure why Oregon suggests grinding the 1/4" wheel to a 60deg angle for rakers. I thought about doing it, but left the wheel "square" and tilted the head angle to 75-80 degrees to allow the raker to have a bit of an angle and keep the leading edge lower than the trailing one. Worked good for me and saved a lot of wheel dressing.

I'll also agree-the dressing stone provided will get you by, but it seems like it won't last too long.


----------



## Stihl 041S

*enco free shipping*

I never get away for under 50, thanks.

I'll try to post each month

Rob


----------



## charlesfarm

I agree that dressing brick is not good at all. It's even worse on the Oregon wheels -- they must be quite a bit harder than the wheels that come with the unit.

Has anybody used the Oregon dressing brick on their wheels yet? Is it better?

God bless,
Chris


----------



## 00juice

*NT grinder arrives today*

The new grinder arrived today. I'll try to take a look at it today, but probably won't get to doing anything with it for a week or two. Stihl 041, I sent the money for the shim a few days ago. If you don't get it, please let me know.
Thanks for all who made these shims possible.


----------



## 24d

*re*



MS-310 said:


> I need to find the right angles to stihl chain.
> thanks


http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice110606.pdf


----------



## precaud

I don't see any wheels suitable for the NT grinder there, am I missing them?


----------



## RaisedByWolves

charlesfarm said:


> I agree that dressing brick is not good at all. It's even worse on the Oregon wheels -- they must be quite a bit harder than the wheels that come with the unit.
> 
> Has anybody used the Oregon dressing brick on their wheels yet? Is it better?
> 
> God bless,
> Chris





I was thinking this over and decided to just drop the bomb on the dressing stick issue.



The ultimate in wheel dressing sticks is the Norton _Norbide_ Stick!


3rd one down.
http://www.woodtechtooling.com/Cleaning_Sticks/cleaning_sticks.html


If you think this is expensive, they used to be well over $100. Their fragile, (like glass) and spendy but they will last longer than you or I if used properly. Given the price and fragility their not for everyone, But well worth the money if you need one.


The sticks above this on that page are better than the stick that comes with the grinder, but the Norbide is nearly as hard as Diamond.


You could probably find them cheaper than this and easily cheaper for a used or broken one on Ebay.


----------



## Stihl 041S

*norbide*

get one and break it in two, I defy you to wear it out. sell half


----------



## Stihl 041S

Hey RBW, this is what CBN wheels are made of right?


----------



## beelsr

RaisedByWolves said:


> The sticks above this on that page are better than the stick that comes with the grinder, but the Norbide is nearly as hard as Diamond.




Even the sanding belt cleaner? :jester: :jester: :jester:


----------



## beelsr

Stihl 041S said:


> Hey RBW, this is what CBN wheels are made of right?



yep.

CBN = "cubic" boron nitride

Norbide = Norton's name for boron carbide


----------



## Stihl 041S

Boron, what makes the Hope Diamond blue and Stainless Steel harder than the hubs of H*ll!!

Rob


----------



## olyman

RaisedByWolves said:


> I was thinking this over and decided to just drop the bomb on the dressing stick issue.
> 
> 
> 
> The ultimate in wheel dressing sticks is the Norton _Norbide_ Stick!
> 
> 
> If you think this is expensive, they used to be well over $100. Their fragile, (like glass) and spendy but they will last longer than you or I if used properly. Given the price and fragility their not for everyone, But well worth the money if you need one.
> 
> 
> probably find them cheaper than this and easily cheaper for a used or broken one on Ebay.


 kooll--only thing--the site has a 2000??????????? date on it--they dont even look at their own site--sheesh--


----------



## olyman

annnndddddddddddddd tried to buy a borite---right--they went just above what id pay---dang!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Stihl 041S

List most places is about $30


----------



## Dok

Stihl_041S- got the washer and spacer and the grinder works much better. I can flip it for opposite teeth and the cutters come out within a few thous of identical. Payment is in the mail, let me know when you get it.
Thanks again!
Brad


----------



## woodchux

I finally got around to installing the washer kit on my grinder. Man what a difference it made. That was basically the only mod that i did to it, and it works great. Thanks guys!


----------



## olyman

woodchux--and----between the price of the grinder--and the wonderful shim kit--makes the oregons look bad expensive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## bigair

I actually felt bad about buying this grinder and undercutting our American workers,for about five minutes. It does a great job, better than the saw shop around here. They burn your cutters, making them not fileable. Took my time on the first chain and only ruined one cutter. It was a chain I rarely used anyhow. I never liked it. Oregon vanguard safety chain. After sharpening the thing was actually a pretty good chain. I used it for a good two hours before I swapped to a Stihl RS. The cutting speed was pretty close between the two. The oregon was alot smoother.


----------



## precaud

bigair said:


> I actually felt bad about buying this grinder and undercutting our American workers,for about five minutes.


I wouldn't give it that long - it's my understanding the "other" one is made in Italy...


----------



## olyman

yup--italy--tecomec--part of same company that makes olympyk??????--now esco saws--not efco??? cause the distributor that sold olys--sold the tecomec sharpeners also---hmmmmmmm-------


----------



## lesorubcheek

*Chain Stop Play*



parrisw said:


> Two other things about this grinder that could use attention.
> 
> 1: the clamp for the chain, I find I really have to push hard on it to hold the chain tight, so the cutter doesn't move when the grinding wheel hits it, anybody else notice this.
> 
> 2:The chain stop, it has a little play, if it could be tightened up a bit, possible would cut down on the different tooth length's.
> 
> Anybody address these issues yet? If not I may have to think of something.
> 
> Thanks



After playing with the grinder for a bit, I too felt the play in the chain stop was just a bit too much. I decided to replace the original 8mm bolt with a shoulder bolt. Its a perfect fit in the existing sleeve and makes a noticeable difference. Here's a pic showing the original bolt next to the new shoulder bolt. 






Here's a pic showing the chain stop assembly installed. There's an arrow pointing to the new shoulder bolt.





The only downside is the threads on the shoulder bolt are only 6 mm. A 6mm nut and washer will tighten up fine, but its a bit tricky holding the nut to tighten it. Here's one more pic showing the nut.





Dan


----------



## parrisw

"lesorubcheek " Good Idea thanks.


----------



## bigair

Good idea. I think all the adjustment stop screws are in need of replacement. Mine go from being too tight to too loose on the same thread.


----------



## Stihl 041S

*Shoulder bolt substitute*

A bolt inside of a tube filed to length would work if a shoulder bolt isn't handy. Drill or ream the holes so the tube just fits should take up most of the slack.


----------



## Stihl 041S

*Shoulder bolts*

Would people want me to look into a bunch of shoulder bolts at lot prices?

I just got a price on Norbide sticks for wheel dressing, might start a thread.


----------



## precaud

Stihl 041S said:


> Would people want me to look into a bunch of shoulder bolts at lot prices?


Why yes, I believe people would...


----------



## Stihl 041S

Precaud; And the adjustment screws?


----------



## precaud

Dunno on those, I haven't had an issue with them.


----------



## tawilson

I guess I'm gonna hafta jump on this whole upgrade bandwagon. I forgot, how do I go about ordering some washers, if it isn't too late? I looked around and couldn't remember where the whole thing started.


----------



## lesorubcheek

*Shoulder bolt may be a BAD idea!*

Uh oh...  
Hold all thoughts about the shoulder bolt idea. I think I just haven't caught up on sleep over the weekend and the brain is playing tricks or something. Even though the shoulder bolt is a very snug fit inside the bushing, as it turns out the bolt is actually drawing the bushing tight against the casting and rotation is occuring on the outside of the bushing, not on the inside where the new bolt is! I feel like an idiot. To really work properly, the shoulder bolt will need to be the exact length of the bushing (lus a bit for some play) and the casting will need to be threaded so when tightened the bolt won't draw tight against the bushing and the rotation would be on the inside. The thing I haven't quite figured out yet is that it does seem like there's less play now than before with the original bolt. My apologies, but it looks like it'll be a bit more involved to really work as I had envisioned.

Dan


----------



## hokiebob1

Lesorub...

the pics you posted--are they the Norther Grinder? If so, the adjuster nuts looks different from mine--mine are plastic but yours appear to be knurled metal (I'm looking at the chain stop adjustment screw and the one on the side/side stop). They look nicer than mine.


----------



## Stihl 041S

Heck, I've never even seen one.


----------



## Stihl 041S

lesorub....Bolt thru length of tube, filed to length or a spacer on the s-bolt to make it the right length?


----------



## Stihl 041S

*SS Washer*

tawlison;Email Stihl 041S with an address for the washers, He is waiting for shims so he can sent them out, payment after you get them.


----------



## hokiebob1

Stihl--am I on your list--I haven't seen it posted but I thought I was--man, what a task you got yourself into!

you da man!


----------



## Stihl 041S

People have been great, many sending $5 which means I have to send 2/3 of a shim to each. What a pain!!

The $10, the shot glasses, the$20 I don't even want to think about it!!


----------



## Stihl 041S

hokiebob; yes


----------



## lesorubcheek

Stihl 041S said:


> lesorub....Bolt thru length of tube, filed to length or a spacer on the s-bolt to make it the right length?



Yea, the shoulder bolt will need the shoulder just a fraction longer than the length of the tube or bushing it goes through. Then a washer could be added between the tube and housing that would be flush against the shoulder bolt. That would work I think. The problem I have is the shoulder bolt has a shoulder that's about 10mm too long or so and it will need to be filed down.

As for the adjusting screws, yea I replaced them. I found some on McMaster Carr and decided what the heck. They were a few dollars each, so not too much extra spent.

Dan


----------



## kevinj

Stihl 041S said:


> People have been great, many sending $5 which means I have to send 2/3 of a shim to each. What a pain!!
> 
> The $10, the shot glasses, the$20 I don't even want to think about it!!




Keep Thinking !
EARLY RETIREMENT !

But Most of All,
People should be more thankfull that,
there are more like you around !!
Thanks 041S !!


----------



## Stihl 041S

Lets see, selling for $3 with shipping and handling included. Actual cost with time and materials included would be$10-$12.

You are right EARLY RETIREMENT!! the only way I'm gonna get out alive.


----------



## PA Plumber

kevinj said:


> Keep Thinking !
> EARLY RETIREMENT !
> 
> But Most of All,
> People should be more thankfull that,
> there are more like you around !!
> Thanks 041S !!



Well Said.

+ 1


----------



## LarryTheCableGuy

kevinj said:


> Keep Thinking !
> EARLY RETIREMENT !



Cool! Early retirement with shot glasses? 

Who woulda thunk!


----------



## olyman

and a nooobie replys in the milling thread that he just bought a sharpener--kids!!!!!!!!


----------



## precaud

hokiebob1 said:


> Rob, thanks for the shipping code and ENCO heads up. I checked it out and the code works if you purchase >$50 in merchandise.



Just a word of warning about Enco... their shipping charges are outrageous if you don't qualify for the free shipping. I just bought six items, $35, shipped in a 4x6x8 box weighing less than 4 lbs and got charged 15 bucks for shipping. That's ridiculous. Worse than some of the charletains on eBay. I would have been better off buying the stuff locally.


----------



## beelsr

precaud said:


> Just a word of warning about Enco... their shipping charges are outrageous if you don't qualify for the free shipping. I just bought six items, $35, shipped in a 4x6x8 box weighing less than 4 lbs and got charged 15 bucks for shipping. That's ridiculous. Worse than some of the charletains on eBay. I would have been better off buying the stuff locally.



so, you ended up spending $50 anyway. :bang: :bang: :bang: 

if you did this online, bummer. if you did this on the phone and the rep didn't coach you into spending the $15 on merchandise, I'd call and b!tch...


----------



## olyman

i made the call about getting money back on the sharpener--they did!!!!!


----------



## RaisedByWolves

olyman said:


> i made the call about getting money back on the sharpener--they did!!!!!





Told Ya So!



Btw, Your in the wrong thread, but I told ya anyhoo......


----------



## olyman

Btw, Your in the wrong thread, but I told ya anyhoo......[/QUOTE]
hot dog!!!!:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## tawilson

I know I'm getting senile, but didn't this sharpener sell for $99 originally?
It's $89 now.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200327449_200327449


----------



## beelsr

tawilson said:


> I know I'm getting senile, but didn't this sharpener sell for $99 originally?
> It's $89 now.
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200327449_200327449




Yep. Makes the $85 hotline buy seem a little less sweet, but still sweet enough....


----------



## precaud

yup - amazing, eh?


----------



## Evin

What happened to the SS shim and washer for the Northern? Has production stopped? Just curious as I had tried to get one sometime ago.


----------



## olyman

evin--if you emailed stihl041s---just hang on--hes in between runs--and takes awhile to get to ya--patience--


----------



## TooTall999

Northern has marked the grinder down to $89.95....time to buy up a bunch...:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## precaud

every household in America should have one opcorn:


----------



## 24d

I think we need to get them to make a copy of a silvey pro sharp-its the most over priced grinder on the market but is the ultimate for grinding sq chisel-you think if 800,000 people called and asked we could get them to do it ???


----------



## tawilson

precaud said:


> every household in America should have one opcorn:


Or two.


http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45707&d=1172094579


----------



## Goicoechea

A stupid question but I have to ask: Will this thing do square ground chain?


----------



## olyman

would think so--but--going to try an do it on my chainsaw mill chain--


----------



## 24d

Goicoechea said:


> A stupid question but I have to ask: Will this thing do square ground chain?



yes it will - but then it will be round ground semi chisel - we need to get northern to make a copy of a square chisel chain grinder like the silvey pro sharp to grind our sq chains-


----------



## beelsr

Goicoechea said:


> A stupid question but I have to ask: Will this thing do square ground chain?



Sure, if you have square grinding wheels... :jester:


----------



## olyman

Evin said:


> What happened to the SS shim and washer for the Northern? Has production stopped? Just curious as I had tried to get one sometime ago.


 now myself beginning to wonder----


----------



## ericjeeper

*Even if production has stopped.*

he made a great number of them for little cost.. Thanks


----------



## 16:1mix

precaud said:


> every household in America should have one opcorn:



Heck yes! 
I gotta chainsaw in the dining room, whats wrong with a chain grinder in the kitchen?


----------



## jrclen

drmiller100 said:


> today is last day of hte sale......



$89.99 as of today.


----------



## rreidnauer

jrclen said:


> $89.99 as of today.



But it looks like you only get one grinding wheel with it now.


----------



## jrclen

rreidnauer said:


> But it looks like you only get one grinding wheel with it now.



It came with three wheels. Different thicknesses. Looks in good shape. My step son picked it up at the Northern Tool store in Milwaukee. But he paid 99.99.


----------



## sdnomad

*Northern Tools 511 sharpener clone now $79.99*

Northern Tolls has the Northern Industrial Bench or Wall-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener for $79.99. I just placed my order. Now its time to junk the Harbor Freight Sharpener I bought. Does anyone know if there are any of the mod washer shim kits still available? I think AS member Stihl 041S had made some up last year, if I'm reading the postings correctly.


----------



## jrclen

sdnomad said:


> Northern Tolls has the Northern Industrial Bench or Wall-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener for $79.99. I just placed my order. Now its time to junk the Harbor Freight Sharpener I bought. Does anyone know if there are any of the mod washer shim kits still available? I think AS member Stihl 041S had made some up last year, if I'm reading the postings correctly.



I sent him an email but haven't heard anything. Give it a try though, don't hurt. Mine works good. I think it does need the washer and especially the shim. Do the other mods, they help a lot. Don't loose the springs or balls under the vise.


----------



## woodchux

Baileys has jumped on the bandwagon and started selling the grinder for $99


----------



## Four Paws

Down to $80 at Northern for their summer sale! $20 pays the shipping and buys you a 12-pack to drink while you grind your chains.


----------



## ktm250rider

Just ordered mine after waiting too long. I paid just under 200 bucks though.:censored: 
Somehow, my computer locked up on my first order and didnt show that it was completed. Went back to finalize it. Got the confirmation, went to check shipping status, saw two grinders on the way.:censored:


----------



## PA Plumber

Seeing this thread back at the top helped me reflect...

Yep, I would buy the NT grinder all over again. Works great for the few chains a year I do.


----------



## ericjeeper

*without a doubt a bargain*

Mine has paid for itself over and over already


----------



## tawilson

ktm250rider said:


> Just ordered mine after waiting too long. I paid just under 200 bucks though.:censored:
> Somehow, my computer locked up on my first order and didnt show that it was completed. Went back to finalize it. Got the confirmation, went to check shipping status, saw two grinders on the way.:censored:


I got two and I did it on purpose. Saves changing wheels.


----------



## Haywire Haywood

I think all said and done, I would rather have the Maxx. I think eventually I may buy one and set the NT up for dedicated raker service.

Ian


----------



## Dok

I have had mine for a year and my chains come out better than the saw shop @ $7 per. I would buy it again. I do the rakers with a hand file and guage. I have four chains per saw X four saws so it paid for itself.
Brad


----------



## Stihl 041S

cef and KTM250rider;

You are on the list

Rob


----------



## OLY-JIM

Well, I just bought two of these grinders from NT for $85 each. It sounds as though most are generally pleased with them. I hope that I have the same good experience. Just curious, but did any of you guys purchase the extended warranty with this grinder and if so have you had to use it? What was your experience in dealing with NT on warranty issues? If you didn't buy the extended warranty...do you wish you would have? I'm kinda wishing that I did.

Thanks!


----------



## Ole Farmerbuck

Stihl 041S said:


> cef and KTM250rider;
> 
> You are on the list
> 
> Rob[/QUOTE
> 
> I sent you a PM Rob.


----------



## Stihl 041S

Van;
And I got it. and you'll get it.

Rob


----------



## parrisw

Hey, where was the post about installing the shims. I got my shim set and cant remember where excatly they go. 

And I am very pleased with my grinder, I can do a better job then I used to pay for at the saw shop. I did some friends chains and they were very impressed.


----------



## PA Plumber

parrisw said:


> Hey, where was the post about installing the shims. I got my shim set and cant remember where excatly they go.
> 
> And I am very pleased with my grinder, I can do a better job then I used to pay for at the saw shop. I did some friends chains and they were very impressed.



There is a some info before this page. Here is the beginning of the "shims" part.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39995&page=19


----------



## Ole Farmerbuck

OLY-JIM said:


> Well, I just bought two of these grinders from NT for $85 each. It sounds as though most are generally pleased with them. I hope that I have the same good experience. Just curious, but did any of you guys purchase the extended warranty with this grinder and if so have you had to use it? What was your experience in dealing with NT on warranty issues? If you didn't buy the extended warranty...do you wish you would have? I'm kinda wishing that I did.
> 
> Thanks!



I didnt buy the extended warranty but i did send 2 or 3 back till i got one that i'm happy with. Northern didnt ask any questions they just said send the one back and they would send me a new one. Gonna order another one soon so i dont have to change wheels. I also got the cbn wheels for it. Nice.


----------



## sarge14

I couldn't be any happier with mine. After looking at an Oregon 511A and a Tecomec (In person and up close) I couldn't justify paying an additional 200+dollars, when I could have the Northern for $85.00. 

It has worked perfect for me and sharpens a chain as good as any grinder out there. Wish I had the money for another one...maybe next year.


----------



## OLY-JIM

It's good to hear that you all still seem to be satisfied with your purchase...I did a little searching for an Oregon 511A today; all were priced right around $300 or little less...I wonder if they're worth the extra money? I'll wait and see how these NT grinders look and in what condition they arrive and make a final decision on the Oregon grinder then. Based on this thread, it sounds as though it's hit and miss in regards to how UPS treats your parcel.


----------



## roy clarke

You guys should try living in the UK, http://www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?partno=19306E LOOK AT THE PRICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

If I could get the Portamill for what you have to pay, I'd have one, only £600


----------



## OLY-JIM

*Oregon 511a*

Well, I'm still waiting on my NT grinders...no surprise at all...because I just ordered them a day or so ago. Except, while waiting in anticipation of their arrival; I got a little impatient and went ahead and bought an Oregon 511A. No big deal...it just means that I'm now going to have to give one of these of NT grinders away as a present...since it's the Holiday Season and all....anyone here interested in a free Christmas present NT grinder? 


That's not to say that I'm going to give it to one of you fine chainsaw people...I just want to know if you're interested? :hmm3grin2orange: 


Best Regards,
OLY-JIM


----------



## precaud

What a tease!


----------



## PA Plumber

OLY-JIM said:


> Well, I'm still waiting on my NT grinders...no surprise at all...because I just ordered them a day or so ago. Except, while waiting in anticipation of their arrival; I got a little impatient and went ahead and bought an Oregon 511A. No big deal...it just means that I'm now going to have to give one of these of NT grinders away as a present...since it's the Holiday Season and all....anyone here interested in a free Christmas present NT grinder?
> 
> 
> That's not to say that I'm going to give it to one of you fine chainsaw people...I just want to know if you're interested? :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> OLY-JIM



Yep, I'm interested. I would be glad to work out a trade for some plumbing parts!:greenchainsaw:


----------



## OLY-JIM

PA Plumber said:


> Yep, I'm interested. I would be glad to work out a trade for some plumbing parts!:greenchainsaw:



Plumbing parts, did you say plumbing parts...why didn't you say that earlier! I been dying to get my hands on some nice, pristine plumbing parts! How much HP do they have?


----------



## ktm250rider

Got my grinder(s) yesterday and finished putting it together this morning. I dont have the shim kit yet, but I did touch up all the moving surfaces as suggested. 
Tackled my first chain this morning. Looks like it does a great job. Went out to my nearest log and let loose on it. Proceeded to go absolutely no where. Initial thought was boy do I suc at this. Then when the chain stopped, I realized I put the stupid thing on backwards.
Once I turned it around, it cut like the ones Ive been getting done at the shop. Now I just need to permentaly mount it so I can get rid of the C-clamps holding it to my bench.


----------



## PA Plumber

OLY-JIM said:


> Plumbing parts, did you say plumbing parts...why didn't you say that earlier! I been dying to get my hands on some nice, pristine plumbing parts! How much HP do they have?



 

Not much, I'm afraid.

Let's see...

I've got part of a couple tub/waste and overflow kits, Two new Delta tub diverter spouts in Antiqe brass, lots of ball valves in 1/2" & 3/4", a couple of pvc dwv fittings and a partially empty mapp gass cylinder from my light service set up.

I guess there are a few other items also, but with what I have already listed, that would make about anyone looking for "plumbing parts" happy!:monkey: 













Okay, maybe not!


----------



## woodchux

OLY-JIM said:


> Well, I'm still waiting on my NT grinders...no surprise at all...because I just ordered them a day or so ago. Except, while waiting in anticipation of their arrival; I got a little impatient and went ahead and bought an Oregon 511A. No big deal...it just means that I'm now going to have to give one of these of NT grinders away as a present...since it's the Holiday Season and all....anyone here interested in a free Christmas present NT grinder?
> 
> 
> That's not to say that I'm going to give it to one of you fine chainsaw people...I just want to know if you're interested? :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> OLY-JIM



I'd be perfectly willing to trade you for as many cords of firewood as you want... Of course i'd have to ship it to ya from the east coast postage due.:greenchainsaw:


----------



## OLY-JIM

*Postage Due....hmmm?*



woodchux said:


> I'd be perfectly willing to trade you for as many cords of firewood as you want... Of course i'd have to ship it to ya from the east coast postage due.:greenchainsaw:




:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: I'll pass on that one!


----------



## OLY-JIM

*Update:*

Received my NT Chain Sharpeners a week ago and they arrived in perfect condition, no thanks to UPS, who engaged in their usual rough treatment of boxes...and the boxes showed it. Luckily, the sharpeners were packed well enough that no damage occured to them whatsoever. Big thanks to Northern Tool on this purchase.  

On a another note, I just received my Oregon 511A tonight, box was in pristine condition, UPS appeared to have handled this shipment with kid gloves. I opened the box...motor housing cracked! Evidently, I can't win for losing? I'll be sending it back of course. :bang:


----------



## Oly's Stump

Ordered mine today! Need to get the mods done. Anyone got the shims for sale?


----------



## Nikko

Curious if any Canadians have ordered one and if so, did UPS send the infamous $30 "brokerage fee" (on top of the $34 shipping charge itself) in the mail after you'd signed for the shipping?

Nikko


----------



## cjk

Ordered mine today, 105.00 delivered. 
Should I wait to see if it needs the mods/ washers or just order some?
Are they still available?
Have they all needed this done?

So far this year,
Stihl 048
2 new chains
NT sharpener/grinder
And now Im looking at a Mini mill. 

You guys are rubbing off on me I think.


----------



## parrisw

I am Canadian, and got one off ebay, but I had it shipped USPS, so the fees arn't as high. Its still a good deal regardless. And make sure to get the shim kit for it too. See if they will ship USPS for you.


----------



## Nikko

I ordered on Dec 20th and apparently it shipped day before yesterday (Jan 8th). Maybe it's me, but that seems like a LONG time. 

Regardless, I'm looking forward to getting it - and to "fixing" it per this thread 

Oh - and for the record, they shipped from a CDN warehouse so there were no (extra) brokerage charges.

and I've "ordered" the shim kit 

Nikko


----------



## OLY-JIM

Nikko said:


> I ordered on Dec 20th and apparently it shipped day before yesterday (Jan 8th). Maybe it's me, but that seems like a LONG time.
> 
> Regardless, I'm looking forward to getting it - and to "fixing" it per this thread
> 
> Oh - and for the record, they shipped from a CDN warehouse so there were no (extra) brokerage charges.
> 
> and I've "ordered" the shim kit
> 
> Nikko




That is a long time...guess that what happens over the holidays. I ordered two of them and they arrived in no time and at the same time.


----------



## bookerdog

I ordered one about the first and got it yesterday. I have a oregon and a tefcom just going to use it to file rakers down. It looks pretty nice.


----------



## chub

*sharpener*

I was reading in the manual and it looked like it should be a 60deg angle to do the rakers is that correct? I thought it would just come straight down. Chub


----------



## Poley4

I got mine on 01/02/07 and I made my washer a day or so later at work, it sure makes the vise rotate much easier. My only complaint so far is the grinding wheels aren't much or at least the 1/8" wheel isn't. It was really out of round which made it vibrate terribly. I dressed it with the supplied dressing stone, but the bond is so hard, it didn't help much. Also the thickness of the wheel varied, which also causes it to vibrate. I guess I will order some good wheels from Bailey's, then it will be a really nice grinder. Now if I can just figure out all of the settings..................


----------



## Oly's Stump

Anyone that is having trouble operating this grinder can get a DVD off of Ebay which may help you out!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110213114149&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=001


----------



## Poley4

Oly's Stump said:


> Anyone that is having trouble operating this grinder can get a DVD off of Ebay which may help you out!
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110213114149&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=001



Thanks Oly,
Got mine ordered!


----------



## jrclen

Oly's Stump said:


> Anyone that is having trouble operating this grinder can get a DVD off of Ebay which may help you out!
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110213114149&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=001



Thanks, I just ordered one.


----------



## jrclen

I've been using mine and I'm happy with it. I did mess up one chain so it would cut around in circles in a log big enough. I tired grinding it again and made it worse. So I took that chain down to the saw shop and they straightened it right out. But all the rest of the chain loops I've done have turned out sharp and true. I'm looking forward to the shims and washer. I did the other mods when I set it up.


----------



## mattfr12

i just found this post and am considering ordering one whats the word is it a good grinder or should i get an oregon. i need something reliable since im sharpening atleast 4-5 chains a day.


----------



## stihl025

Oly's Stump said:


> Anyone that is having trouble operating this grinder can get a DVD off of Ebay which may help you out!
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110213114149&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=001



Has anyone bought one of these DVD's? Just curoius how helpful it is.


----------



## Poley4

stihl025 said:


> Has anyone bought one of these DVD's? Just curoius how helpful it is.



Hopefully we will know this week, if it shows up in time.


----------



## bookerdog

stihl025 said:


> Has anyone bought one of these DVD's? Just curoius how helpful it is.



Ive seen the video and its pretty basic. It will help to get you going though.


----------



## stihl025

bookerdog said:


> Ive seen the video and its pretty basic. It will help to get you going though.



I bought one for the heck of it. I have used my sharpener with little problem. I guess maybe I am looking for some advanced instruction or the "tips and tricks" section on using the grinder. Not sure if there is such a thing. I seem to have more problems when using the 10 degrees tilt angle. I can't seem to get the same grind on my Stihl chains (.325 RS) that the dealer can produce.


----------



## jrclen

stihl025 said:


> I bought one for the heck of it. I have used my sharpener with little problem. I guess maybe I am looking for some advanced instruction or the "tips and tricks" section on using the grinder. Not sure if there is such a thing. I seem to have more problems when using the 10 degrees tilt angle. I can't seem to get the same grind on my Stihl chains (.325 RS) that the dealer can produce.



I asked my dealer about the tilt angle and he claims they don't use that on any chains. I wish he would let me watch him grind a few loops, but it seems to be a big secret with a special handshake or something. I'm still learning. I hope to pick up some tips from the DVD.


----------



## Stihl 041S

Beware of Special or Secret Handshakes!!!!


----------



## parrisw

> I seem to have more problems when using the 10 degrees tilt angle.



Not to sound stupid, but are you tilting it in the correct direction?


----------



## stihl025

parrisw said:


> Not to sound stupid, but are you tilting it in the correct direction?



No, I have the correct tilt angle. Downloaded the Oregon 511A manual to make sure (much more explanation). It just seems that the dealer's grind is more pronounced than mine (even to say there seems to be more than 10 degrees). Not sure if he uses a different angle than me or what. But there is definitely tilt to his grind and it just seems that he can get more of the tooth than I can. Heck, for all I know, it could be an incorrect radius of my stone vs his CBN or diamond wheel. I am going to purchase a CBN wheel, just can't right now.


----------



## parrisw

I have had very good luck with this grinder, with stock wheel's. I use the 10deg tilt when its called for, are all your other angles correct? Do you have the angle specs for the chain?


----------



## stihl025

parrisw said:


> I have had very good luck with this grinder, with stock wheel's. I use the 10deg tilt when its called for, are all your other angles correct? Do you have the angle specs for the chain?



Yep. I have all of the specs for the Stihl, Oregon and the Woodsman Pro chains. It's not that I am not getting good results from my NT grinder, I am just saying that the dealer's grind job seems much better. And, I am not sure why or how it is different from mine. Like the secret handshake thing, my dealer won't give up the trade secret. Although, if I woo him with another Norfolk Southern Train Calendar.... I may get somewhere....


----------



## parrisw

I am the opposite, the place I was taking my chains to, wasn't doing very good jobs, they were taking allot of material off the chains, and I think they were just doing it as fast as possible. I can now do a much better job then they did.


----------



## Ole Farmerbuck

parrisw said:


> I am the opposite, the place I was taking my chains to, wasn't doing very good jobs, they were taking allot of material off the chains, and I think they were just doing it as fast as possible. I can now do a much better job then they did.


+1


----------



## stihl025

parrisw said:


> I am the opposite, the place I was taking my chains to, wasn't doing very good jobs, they were taking allot of material off the chains, and I think they were just doing it as fast as possible. I can now do a much better job then they did.



The Stihl dealer that I go to is an old fashioned Mom and Pop type shop. There is only one guy behind the counter, the owner. There is only one guy who services the saws, sharpens the chains, looks up parts, demonstrates and explains the features... and thats him. He does a great job, and he has a good business. When he is busy and there is a line forming, we all stand around patiently waiting because we know it's worth the wait. He has bar stools all around his counter, and most of us pull up a chair and hang out like it was a pub. He is definitely not like some others who I have had sharpen my chains before (ie: taking off almost half of the tooth on each pass). I almost feel bad having my own grinder now, for that portion of my business he will lose. But I refer everyone to him trying to make up for that. He is the the type of guy who will probably show me that secret handshake, but the reality is, I am too embarrassed to ask.


----------



## Nikko

Mine came yesterday and I've put it together but not mounted it. Anyone got any ideas for the best way to mount these things? I'd love a dedicated spot in the shop but that's not possible, so however I end up doing it, it'll have to be put away at the end of the session.

Also curious if anyone's run one of these off a 12 inverter?

Nikko


----------



## woodchux

Nikko said:


> Mine came yesterday and I've put it together but not mounted it. Anyone got any ideas for the best way to mount these things? I'd love a dedicated spot in the shop but that's not possible, so however I end up doing it, it'll have to be put away at the end of the session.
> 
> Also curious if anyone's run one of these off a 12 inverter?
> 
> Nikko



I just use a C clamp on mine


----------



## PA Plumber

Nikko said:


> Mine came yesterday and I've put it together but not mounted it. Anyone got any ideas for the best way to mount these things? I'd love a dedicated spot in the shop but that's not possible, so however I end up doing it, it'll have to be put away at the end of the session.
> 
> Also curious if anyone's run one of these off a 12 inverter?
> 
> Nikko



I made a quick stand one day out of 2 x 4's. It was just to get by for a couple of sharpenings, but I've started to like it. Easy to move and just the right heighth when I am sitting on an old wire spool. I'll post a pic in a few minutes.


----------



## PA Plumber

Here's a couple of pics...

The little extra piece of 2 x 4 sticking out to
the left is nice for hanging chains.


----------



## parrisw

I mounted mine on a little shelf I made, on the wall in the shop, hardly takes up any room. I mounted it at a good height while standing.


----------



## charlesfarm

*Oregon Dressing Brick DB-2*

I got pretty tired of the dressing brick that comes with the unit, especially since I'm using the Oregon wheels -- they're much harder and had left me with what looks like a little knarled up piece of pumice. So, I ordered the Oregon DB-2 brick. What a difference. I shaped a new wheel this morning and it didn't wear the brick at all -- I'm a happy camper now.

I wanted to get the Norbide Stick for shaping the wheels, but just couldn't justify the cost for the amount of sharpening I do ... oh wait ... I guess I was able to justify it to myself, but not to my wife!

God bless,
Chris


----------



## Stihl 041S

Charlesfarm, what are they getting for Norbide sticks these days?


----------



## charlesfarm

041,

I admit I didn't look really hard for one, but the cheapest I could find was $50 new.

eBay has a used one in an auction right now that's at $9.99, with almost 3 days to go. Looks in very good condition.

I paid $4.72 for the Oregon DB-2.

By the way, can you tell me if I am still on the shim/washer list?

God bless,
Chris


----------



## Stihl 041S

Charlesfarm,
sorry thought I pm'd back. Dont buy a norbide, wait for a package.
Rob


----------



## charlesfarm

Thanks Rob -- I appreciate it very much!!

Thought I'd share a pic my grinder setup. Used to have it out in the garage, got tired of freezing my tail off out there -- Iowa winters can be pretty brutal. So, I moved it down to my basement to my workbench there. It's kind of drafty down there (100 year old house), but I just fire up my el cheapo harbor freight ceramic propane heater. My body stays pretty warm, but my legs get fried. 

I've got to cut the legs shorter on my stool -- I sit up way too high and my back isn't the greatest, so leaning that far over isn't fun when I have quite a few chains to sharpen. Plus, I figure my cutter angles will be better if I can actually see what I'm doing from a better angle.






God bless,
Chris


----------



## Stihl 041S

As with most things, position is everything in life!


----------



## PA Plumber

Charles, 
I think something is wrong with your work bench...



It's CLEAN!!:jawdrop: :jawdrop:


----------



## Stihl 041S

Dont worry, that is the "before" picture.


----------



## charlesfarm

Ha!!! Here's the workbench in the garage where I use to have the grinder mounted. 

Just give it a couple weeks, and the next pic I post of that bench in the basement will look the same!!






God bless,
Chris


----------



## Stihl 041S

Okay then, you can stay in the club.


----------



## Kansas

Hi guys first time poster here! Trying not to bash this but I had an Oregon once and sold it to a friend (bad move) and bought this to replace it. After quite a bit of faniggling I have it close to working as good as the Oregon but I would advise unless you just love tinkering on things this sharpener isnt for everyone. The real deal is expensive no doubt but it works very good and the angle scales are correct and repeatable. My NH sharpener scales are way off I had to re-mark all of them. I may have gotten the biggest pos they had on hand but I made it work.  Good luck


----------



## Stihl 041S

Kansas, you have 40 pages of this thread to read by tomorrow.


----------



## parrisw

> Hi guys first time poster here! Trying not to bash this but I had an Oregon once and sold it to a friend (bad move) and bought this to replace it. After quite a bit of faniggling I have it close to working as good as the Oregon but I would advise unless you just love tinkering on things this sharpener isnt for everyone. The real deal is expensive no doubt but it works very good and the angle scales are correct and repeatable. My NH sharpener scales are way off I had to re-mark all of them. I may have gotten the biggest pos they had on hand but I made it work. Good luck



Maybe your right. But I always say the prof is in the pudding. I just use the scales it came with. I'm not putting a degree wheel on this thing. My test is looking how the chips fly. My saws are throwing good chips, better then when I hand filed. That's good enough for me.


----------



## PA Plumber

Stihl 041S said:


> Kansas, you have 40 pages of this thread to read by tomorrow.



You got it Rob!!! This whole thread is "faniggling."

I have discovered, for me, the 27 degree angle with no tilt does just fine on my small saws. I keep tinkering, but that seems to do it.


----------



## Kansas

parrisw said:


> Maybe your right. But I always say the prof is in the pudding. I just use the scales it came with. I'm not putting a degree wheel on this thing. My test is looking how the chips fly. My saws are throwing good chips, better then when I hand filed. That's good enough for me.



Hand filed? You are a serious wood cutter! (I am lazy)

I should have guessed I would get crap over talking about China tools in a off calibrated way.  

Actually what I did was set a new chain on it read the recomended cutting angles on the box the chain came in and marked the scales to it, I didnt put a gage on or anything complicated like that. One of the 2 was way off on mine I think I trust the new chain. HTH


----------



## Kansas

Stihl 041S said:


> Kansas, you have 40 pages of this thread to read by tomorrow.




Why? j/c


----------



## Ole Farmerbuck

I got tired of reaching way up for the handle so i put a 'stop' on the back side so the grinder doesnt go all the way up. About 1/2 way.


----------



## tawilson

Stihl 041S said:


> Kansas, you have 40 pages of this thread to read by tomorrow.


And there will be a test.


----------



## Kansas

Oh by the way guys the best mod I did was added a motor arm up stop. The Oregon had it and it saves a lot of time IMO reaching up and dragging that arm down and up each cut but that is just my fellings on it may not help any of you though thought I would mention it?


----------



## Kansas

Ole Farmerbuck said:


> I got tired of reaching way up for the handle so i put a 'stop' on the back side so the grinder doesnt go all the way up. About 1/2 way.



Dang it you beat me to it I was just writing when you were!
That is a good mod I agree 100%


----------



## Kansas

tawilson said:


> And there will be a test.



Alright open book tests are easy bring it on test away!


----------



## PA Plumber

Kansas said:


> Alright open book tests are easy bring it on test away!




Yuck. That post gave me a flashback to my senior year of college; open book business law final exam. 16 hand written pages of answers in the space of about 2 hours.


----------



## stihl025

Kansas said:


> Oh by the way guys the best mod I did was added a motor arm up stop. The Oregon had it and it saves a lot of time IMO reaching up and dragging that arm down and up each cut but that is just my fellings on it may not help any of you though thought I would mention it?



I used a zip tie looped around the bottom stop and the handle. Works good enough.

Just for S&G's, what would be the best way to measure the angles of the grinder? I am just curuious as to how far off they really are, and possibly in the market to re-mark the most used ones.


----------



## Stihl 041S

Kansas, there are several things that
improve the way it works. Maybe some one could narrow it down for him.


----------



## PA Plumber

Stihl 041S said:


> Kansas, there are several things that
> improve the way it works. Maybe some one could narrow it down for him.



For starters, I found plugging in the unit didn't help one bit. Even with it plugged in, I still had to spin the wheel by hand and, let me tell you, it took a long time to sharpen a chain.

Then I tried hitting the power button with it plugged in and that did help a great deal in throwing sparks. Those nice pretty blue cutters didn't cut worth anything. Still, the sparks were a pretty deep orange color.

I'm still working out the little details, as you can see.


----------



## charlesfarm

Plumber,

Thanks for the post, I just found the switch after your post. What a difference. My fingers shouldn't get so sore now.

I just learned from reading some of the older posts that the top piece is spring loaded, and is supposed to bolt to the base and works kinda like a hinge. Keeps everything in line. Here's a photo of me early on trying to steady the grinder on my knee while grinding a chain -- you should see some of those early chains, they wouldn't cut whipped cream.


----------



## PA Plumber

Charlesfarm,

Now that's funny!!! 

I'm sitting here laughing away, and the hole family thinks I lost my last marble.

Good pic.


----------



## Kansas

stihl025 said:


> I used a zip tie looped around the bottom stop and the handle. Works good enough.
> 
> Just for S&G's, what would be the best way to measure the angles of the grinder? I am just curuious as to how far off they really are, and possibly in the market to re-mark the most used ones.




Well Ed since I already had an Oregon I was fortunate to know what was missing and where. The up stop on the arm was IMO a time waster so I put a bolt in where the Oregon had one and set the maks on the scales with a new chain like I mentioned and used a permanant fine point marker I took pics and if I can post them I will. 

How about starting a junky work bench contest? Mine is pretty bad right now I included a pic. Too many irons in the fire as usual.


----------



## Kansas

Charlesfarm thanks for the laugh! That made my morning I almost spilled coffee I laughed so hard!


----------



## jrclen

Now I have a guilty conscience for having such a neat and orderly work bench. And for hollering at my grandson for messing it up every chance he gets. All this time I thought I was right and he was wrong. Now you guys have me wondering.


----------



## Stihl 041S

If he is messing it up, at least he is around the workbench, and if Grandpa is there, that ain't so bad, is it?


----------



## jrclen

Stihl 041S said:


> If he is messing it up, at least he is around the workbench, and if Grandpa is there, that ain't so bad, is it?



Not bad at all. We've raised him since he was born and he has always liked tools and mechanical things. Since he was small. I've always encouraged him. He uses up all my nails, bolts, nuts, and other parts and makes a big mess, but like you say, is isn't a bad thing. He's become a pretty good mechanic now at 17. And he is my wood cutting partner too. And hunting partner, ice fishing partner, and lots of other stuff. Like the kids before him were. 7 kids and 10 grand kids.


----------



## Stihl 041S

You've done well pilgrim.


----------



## Nikko

Spent some time getting the new sharpener all set up today and wanted to give a huge thank you to all those that figured out how to make this thing better. I spent a bit of time taking the unit apart, cleaning castings and flattening mating surfaces. Once done I played a bit with a .325 chain and it went fast. Then I moved on to a 119DL milling chain and it too was done on no time.

So thanks HUGE to those that took the time to make a good unit even better. there's no way I would have known about this unit, let alone bought it without this thread and all your hard work.

Nikko


----------



## JeffandJess4806

I think i may have to buy one after reading all this info, What about this one >> http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=78004&catID=


----------



## woodchux

JeffandJess4806 said:


> I think i may have to buy one after reading all this info, What about this one >> http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=78004&catID=



That looks like the same unit painted blue


----------



## OLY-JIM

charlesfarm said:


> Plumber,
> 
> Thanks for the post, I just found the switch after your post. What a difference. My fingers shouldn't get so sore now.
> 
> I just learned from reading some of the older posts that the top piece is spring loaded, and is supposed to bolt to the base and works kinda like a hinge. Keeps everything in line. Here's a photo of me early on trying to steady the grinder on my knee while grinding a chain -- you should see some of those early chains, they wouldn't cut whipped cream.



I think I would have paid money to see this in person!  

Glad you got it worked out! :rockn:


----------



## Wet1

I see Northern has this chain grinder on sale for $85 so I ordered one based on the all the good reviews. If I'm not happy with it, I'll try to do the mods listed in post 187.

Are the washer kits still available???


----------



## Stihl 041S

*Yes they are*

Can't get shims. So........I"ll get them made too. But......
I owe a grinding project to an AS member first.
My mom had a stroke and posting is from a Blackberry from theur house or hospital.Recovery is not quick, and my dad needs helpat the house. At 92 and 86 years, nothing is fast.
Been a long 6 or 10 weeks but she is getting better.


----------



## WildnCrazyGuy

Got mine on Friday. I have a Northern Tool store right across the intersection where I work. Get this... I find they have a few on the shelf, some back stocked, so I found the price tag and it was like 99 dollars and change, probably 99.99. I had seen it on sale online, so when I get to the register, I said, I see they are on sale online, but I bet they are not on sale in the store... The guy at the register says, let's see. It rang up for 119.99 or something similar... I was like, maybe I got the wrong one, the sign said 99 somethin'. He says "it's supposed to be on sale for 99?" I go, no, it's on sale online for like 85. He sends someone to check it online and he comes back with a piece of paper that says 84.99, so I got rang up for 84.99... 

Then like a dummy, I decided to add the 10.99 for the 2 year replacement plan after the manufacturer's 12 month warranty, so I walked out of there after 101.72 tax included and have a grinder that I can replace once if necessary after the manufacurer's warranty for 2 more years. Probably won't need it and I usually just say no to all that junk, but figured for 10.99, and he just gave me the online price which I don't think they are supposed to do. I gave him a bone for giving me one... It would have probably been 10.00 to ship it online anyway...

I also figured it would be best since the store is right around the corner rather than online and having to deal with that mess if I were to have a problem. It's easier to take the product back to the store and deal with someone face to face. You usually get what you want if it's not out of line.

I've been working on my hand filing skills, but recently got a saw from a guy with a really rocked out chain. I filed and filed and thought I had it pretty sharp and within a cut or two, it was smoking... So decided to see if I could get a grinder which is why I was looking. I ground that chain a little on Friday night and cut all day with it Saturday and some on Sunday. Still cuts like butter.


----------



## Wet1

Stihl 041S said:


> Can't get shims. So........I"ll get them made too. But......
> I owe a grinding project to an AS member first.
> My mom had a stroke and posting is from a Blackberry from theur house or hospital.Recovery is not quick, and my dad needs helpat the house. At 92 and 86 years, nothing is fast.
> Been a long 6 or 10 weeks but she is getting better.



Sorry to hear the bad news, hopefully she'll have a complete and speedy recovery...


----------



## Stihl 041S

Thank you


----------



## parrisw

Very sorry to hear about your mom Rob. Hope she gets well soon. I'm still enjoying the shim kit you sent me, thanks again. 

One problem I've run into lately with the grinder, the knob that tightens the chain vise down, will no longer tighten enough, the table is too loose, so I've had to put two washers inbetween the big cupped washer underneath, and the knob, I can't figure out what moved??? Unless the stud is pulling out from the bed?? Anybody else have this problem?


----------



## Ole Farmerbuck

Stihl 041S said:


> Can't get shims. So........I"ll get them made too. But......
> I owe a grinding project to an AS member first.
> My mom had a stroke and posting is from a Blackberry from theur house or hospital.Recovery is not quick, and my dad needs helpat the house. At 92 and 86 years, nothing is fast.
> Been a long 6 or 10 weeks but she is getting better.


I'm sorry to hear that Rob. Send her my best and i can wait for the shim kit.


----------



## turfguy

Went into Northern today to see if they had any grinders, and low and behold they did. I already had one, but it fell off the table a few months back, and shattered into many pieces. Listed at 119.99 in the store, ask the gal at the counter if they honor online price, she says yes, just need to go check the price. Comes back, says yep, 84.99 online, so types it in the computer, and low and behold, it is onsale for 79.99. Thinking if they had another, I would have bought it at that price.

Any more news on shim kits?


----------



## Stihl 041S

*shim kits*

I make the washers, but can no longer get the shims. After I get a filing project done for a very patient AS member, I'll buy the tools and shim stock to finish the kits.
Rob


----------



## jrclen

Stihl 041S said:


> I make the washers, but can no longer get the shims. After I get a filing project done for a very patient AS member, I'll buy the tools and shim stock to finish the kits.
> Rob



Sounds great. We all appreciate your time and effort.


----------



## [email protected]

*How do I know what settings to use?*

I would like to order the Northern Tools Sharpener, but, I would not know what to set the various settings to.

I have 2 chainsaws.
Sears Craftsman (Poulan) 18" uses chain H72 (33SL).
Echo 12" uses chain S45.

They both say to use a 5/32" file.


----------



## jrclen

[email protected] said:


> I would like to order the Northern Tools Sharpener, but, I would not know what to set the various settings to.



You can align the settings to the chain if you look carefully. Just put the chain in and match the angles.


----------



## idiyaught

*Stihl grinding angles*

I copied this from a box with the chain in it
hope you find it useful 
Sorry, the doc is blank,having problems saving it
if you want the angles for a chain I will post it for you


----------



## jrclen

I should have mentioned, the grinder comes with a table giving the settings for most common chains.


----------



## [email protected]

idiyaught said:


> I copied this from a box with the chain in it
> hope you find it useful
> Sorry, the doc is blank,having problems saving it
> if you want the angles for a chain I will post it for you



I was able to get all of the settings from OregonChain.com.
Thanks anyway!


----------



## Moss Man

I am seeing this priced at Northern right now for $89.95

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...omer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Category Page

I am just about to pull the trigger and order that bad boy.

I wonder if I get free shipping from being a member?


----------



## Bass

great thread - just ordered the unit 

looking forward to the mods 


Stihl 041S - if you are still making the washers and shims, could you please PM me the info on how to order from you and do you take paypal 

Thanks 
Bass


----------



## ericjeeper

*Mail him cash*



Bass said:


> great thread - just ordered the unit
> 
> looking forward to the mods
> 
> 
> Stihl 041S - if you are still making the washers and shims, could you please PM me the info on how to order from you and do you take paypal
> 
> Thanks
> Bass



Providing he is still making the shims almost 2 years later. LOL Just stick the cash in an envelope and put a stamp on it..


----------



## Moss Man

I ordered the dag burn thing. $104. delivered to my Maine doorstep.

If the washer and shim are still available, I will be needing them.


----------



## Bass

ericjeeper said:


> Providing he is still making the shims almost 2 years later. LOL Just stick the cash in an envelope and put a stamp on it..



 will do!!


----------



## Moss Man

Got the grinder via UPS today, the box was a little roughed up, but nothing seemed broken inside and the wheels were intact. If anyone has the dimensions of the spacer and washer, I have a machinist friend who could make them for me.


----------



## Bass

of topic - Moss i too use the 272xp  great saw!!


----------



## Urbicide

Stihl 041S said:


> I make the washers, but can no longer get the shims. After I get a filing project done for a very patient AS member, I'll buy the tools and shim stock to finish the kits.
> Rob





Moss Man said:


> If anyone has the dimensions of the spacer and washer, I have a machinist friend who could make them for me.



Seems to me, Moss Man, that if you could supply the shims, then Stihl 041S can continue wth production of the washers. Ta da! Everybody's happy and Rob might get some peace.:greenchainsaw:


----------



## Bass

put mine together this weekend and did two chains - once i figured out how to do the 10 degrees it worked great and it was tossing some very nice chips 

the question is how am i suppose to use the dressing stone? never really had any type of grinder before 

oh and should i grind down the rakers too?

Thxs


----------



## John Henry

I'm in the process of calling Northern to complain and get some relief. I love the sharpener, except they have issues with shipping (as described here) and damage, and my motor quit (actually, started running backwards, so shorting electrical connections somewhere) after two chains.

I also didn't seem to be able to tilt 10 degrees both ways on the bottom curved part. It says you should be able to slide that piece 5-10 degrees, but I can only go 10 degrees one direction, and about 3 in the other. (note, this is not the 0-30 degree adjustment that in the plane of your benchtop, but the swivel toward or away from you; it uses the same adjustment knob though). Anyone else experience that?


----------



## Stihl088stock

Yes JH mine tilts well only in one direction too.


----------



## ODS9091

Bass said:


> the question is how am i suppose to use the dressing stone? never really had any type of grinder before
> 
> oh and should i grind down the rakers too?
> Thxs



http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/accessories/511AManual_3Lang.pdf

It's a big file, but it's because it is multilanguage??? I had the same problem with my NT grinder, until i downloaded the 511A manual, it is basically the same, but it has a whole lot more better instruction booklet


----------



## Kansas

Bass said:


> put mine together this weekend and did two chains - once i figured out how to do the 10 degrees it worked great and it was tossing some very nice chips
> 
> the question is how am i suppose to use the dressing stone? never really had any type of grinder before
> 
> oh and should i grind down the rakers too?
> 
> Thxs




With the grinder running use the stone to shape the disc to what fits the plastic gage they (or should have) gave you. (shut the grinder off btw  )hth

I dont grind my rakers fwtiw but other people may so maybe they will say yes but chains dont last long enough to go to the extra work so for me anyway it doesnt pay.

Kansas


----------



## Kansas

John Henry said:


> I'm in the process of calling Northern to complain and get some relief. I love the sharpener, except they have issues with shipping (as described here) and damage, and my motor quit (actually, started running backwards, so shorting electrical connections somewhere) after two chains.
> 
> I also didn't seem to be able to tilt 10 degrees both ways on the bottom curved part. It says you should be able to slide that piece 5-10 degrees, but I can only go 10 degrees one direction, and about 3 in the other. (note, this is not the 0-30 degree adjustment that in the plane of your benchtop, but the swivel toward or away from you; it uses the same adjustment knob though). Anyone else experience that?




These things are Chinese junk (pardon my French) we have all had issues of one kind or other. They need a lot of attention down to the smallest detail, just study the form and function of it there is casting flash everywhere and incomplete castings etc you will basically need to re manufacture the unit to get it to work decent but it will with minimum fuss don't worry. 

As for the table angle problem -look at the detents in the table one may be full of casting you may have to drill it out or something just an idea since I cant see it from here?

Once you tweak it out they are well worth the spare change they cost!

Don't get me wrong I fix cars for a living this grinder was a piece of cake to get it darn near as good as the Oregon I used to have it just takes imagination!

Steve


----------



## PA Plumber

Bass said:


> put mine together this weekend and did two chains - once i figured out how to do the 10 degrees it worked great and it was tossing some very nice chips
> 
> the question is how am i suppose to use the dressing stone? never really had any type of grinder before
> 
> oh and should i grind down the rakers too?
> 
> Thxs



The grinder I have came with a burgundy colored plastic reference gage. Just touch the wheel with the stone just enough to reshape it to the reference guide. You are probably aware, make sure the grinding wheel is completely stopped before using the reference guide. 

Concerning rakers/depth gages; yes, I grind them. I have a metal Stihl raker depth guide. I don't even change the angle of the grinding wheel. I just use a light hand and it only takes a minute or two to touch up the rakers. If you get the rakers too low, the saw will get real jumpy. Great for Eastern Hemlock, a real pain in some of the hard woods.


----------



## masiman

John Henry said:


> ...I also didn't seem to be able to tilt 10 degrees both ways on the bottom curved part. It says you should be able to slide that piece 5-10 degrees, but I can only go 10 degrees one direction, and about 3 in the other. (note, this is not the 0-30 degree adjustment that in the plane of your benchtop, but the swivel toward or away from you; it uses the same adjustment knob though). Anyone else experience that?



Kansas may have fixed your problem, but in case that did not do it try this.

On my grinder there were some castings on the underside of the table that prevented the table from being able to tilt in one direction. I took a grinder to and fixed it in less than 30secs.

A nice grinder after you finish tweaking it!


----------



## Bass

Thanks for the tips guys!! plan to r-sharpen my chains this weekend so i'll dress the wheels


----------



## Dok

The detents that set the + or - 10deg hook on mine weren't cast very well. I cleaned them out with a drill bit ever so carefully. Installing the shim, washer and cleaning up all the mating surfaces has the grinder working great, even a year later.
Dok


----------



## chugbug

Hey guys I just jumped in on this thread !! Wow 44 pages !! Anyway I went to northern and I want to make sure I'm looking at the right one , pretty sure its the only one thats not oregon , there number is 193020 and its on sale for 89.99 , everybody still happy with them ??


----------



## PA Plumber

chugbug said:


> Hey guys I just jumped in on this thread !! Wow 44 pages !! Anyway I went to northern and I want to make sure I'm looking at the right one , pretty sure its the only one thats not oregon , there number is 193020 and its on sale for 89.99 , everybody still happy with them ??



That sure looks like the one I have. 

From the way this thread has gone, it sounds like the quality has been suffering as of late.

The one I received had rattled around a good bit during shipping, but has worked very well with the shim/washer mods. Likely, I was lucky and got a good one.

Still happy? Yes, worth every penny. I have probably used the sharpener at least 100 times, so far. I have also done chains for a few of my neighbors at anywhere from the price of "neighborly" to $5.00/chain.

From the get go, I did put alignment marks on the arbor and the wheels so they are put on the same every time. I also check the wheels fairly often and dress as needed.


----------



## John Henry

Dok said:


> The detents that set the + or - 10deg hook on mine weren't cast very well. I cleaned them out with a drill bit ever so carefully. Installing the shim, washer and cleaning up all the mating surfaces has the grinder working great, even a year later.
> Dok



Good advice. I will pull mine apart when I get the new one and clean it up.

When my motor quit working, I called. The Northern Tool lady was extremely nice, and shipped a new one the same day! I am returning the other via UPS. The quality on this tool may be a little suspect, but +1 for NT's customer service.


----------



## chugbug

Thanks for the positive reply pa plumber , I'll probably get one ordered but was wondering if the shims were still available ??


----------



## PA Plumber

chugbug said:


> Thanks for the positive reply pa plumber , I'll probably get one ordered but was wondering if the shims were still available ??



You're welcome.

There is a "hitch in the giddy-up" on the shims. I did use my for a few chains before installing the shim/washer. It did a great job, just required more due diligence in lining up the wheel when switching sides.


----------



## chugbug

Well I got one of the grinders on the way , if you guys have any of the washer/ shim kits avail please let me know how much and I will get it out to you . Thanks for all the help and info on this , Bruce


----------



## ButcherGY54

Well you guys did it again!!! Just got my Grinder. Did a couple chains. Now I'll do some mods to it.

Thanks.
David


----------



## woodchux

Laissez les bon temps roulet !


----------



## arlen

Stihl 041S said:


> I make the washers, but can no longer get the shims. After I get a filing project done for a very patient AS member, I'll buy the tools and shim stock to finish the kits.
> Rob





Hi are you still making the shims and washers ? If so I would like a kit. I tried to send you a PM but your mail box is Full.

thanks David


----------



## Moss Man

I believe 041 had said something about caring for his parents and not having time for extra activities? I pm'd him with no response.


----------



## danl

Does any one know the size of the two ball bearings for the detent settings?

I lost both of mine and right now just have bbs in there, they are a little small.

Thanks
Dan


----------



## mrimpacto

Hi, just wondering what the status / price on the kits are? I'm ready to pull the pin on one and want to make it right. Just let me know when you're back in business. Thanks


----------



## chugbug

*better wheel for northern sharpener*

I know it was probably mentioned in the northern thread but its 45 pages long now , I noticed the wheels that came with my the grinder don't fit the arbour very well , there is quite a bit of slop and when turning the grinder on you can see the wheel is spinning out of round , who makes a reasonable replacement wheel for it .


----------



## Moss Man

chugbug said:


> I know it was probably mentioned in the northern thread but its 45 pages long now , I noticed the wheels that came with my the grinder don't fit the arbour very well , there is quite a bit of slop and when turning the grinder on you can see the wheel is spinning out of round , who makes a reasonable replacement wheel for it .



I believe people here have mentioned using Oregon wheels, apparently the 511a wheels fit the Northern.


----------



## chugbug

Thanks moss man , I should have thought of that .


----------



## Moss Man

chugbug said:


> Thanks moss man , I should have thought of that .



No problem, I believe the wheel quality is much improved over the Northern.
Good luck and post up how you make out, I just bought the Northern grinder and haven't had the time to set it up yet.


----------



## chugbug

Moss man , maybe you have seen my comments , but I did get mine up and going the other day and my first chain turned out really good . Mounted it to a piece of 1'' thick wood with a piece of 2x2 angle underneath that I can put in the vise on my workbench . The only fault so far is the slop in the vise hub , it could use a .010-.012 thick shim to tighten it up,and the grinding wheel has to big of hole in it and I get some out round when it spins other than that - so far so good , have fun!!! 

Just double check your depth setting when switching from right to left on the cutters.


----------



## Kansas

Hey guys I thought I would reiterate one mod I made at the get go that is a time saver and simple to do and thats an arm stop that the Oregon has and this doesnt.

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63100&d=1200668379

If this doesnt work the post is #615 on this thread. I wanted to just re-post the pic but dont know how sorry. hth someone 

Kansas


----------



## parrisw

Kansas said:


> Hey guys I thought I would reiterate one mod I made at the get go that is a time saver and simple to do and thats an arm stop that the Oregon has and this doesnt.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63100&d=1200668379
> 
> If this doesnt work the post is #615 on this thread. I wanted to just re-post the pic but dont know how sorry. hth someone
> 
> Kansas



What does this do?


----------



## Kansas

parrisw said:


> What does this do?



It stops the arm from going all the way up is all it lets the arm stay at a reasonable level while setting the chain to the next tooth so you arnt reaching so far to pull the arm down for me it saves effort. hth

Kansas


----------



## parrisw

Kansas said:


> It stops the arm from going all the way up is all it lets the arm stay at a reasonable level while setting the chain to the next tooth so you arnt reaching so far to pull the arm down for me it saves effort. hth
> 
> Kansas



How does it stop it, hard to tell by that pic on exactly what its doing.


----------



## Kansas

parrisw said:


> How does it stop it, hard to tell by that pic on exactly what its doing.



Yeah the arm is held down in that pic isnt it, well look at the bolt with the 2 flat washers there on the right side at the hinge on the back of the arm and look at the bottom half of the grinder where the bolt would hit if the arm was up. 

The washers are the adjustment add or remove to suit you.

Actually the dirt is cleaned a bit where the bolt contacts the bottom half you can just see that. 

A 511a Oregon has the same type of stop if you look at one of those. If you have any more questions I can post a pic for you let me know. Believe me it works good  hth

Kansas


----------



## parrisw

Kansas said:


> Yeah the arm is held down in that pic isnt it, well look at the bolt with the 2 flat washers there on the right side at the hinge on the back of the arm and look at the bottom half of the grinder where the bolt would hit if the arm was up.
> 
> The washers are the adjustment add or remove to suit you.
> 
> Actually the dirt is cleaned a bit where the bolt contacts the bottom half you can just see that.
> 
> A 511a Oregon has the same type of stop if you look at one of those. If you have any more questions I can post a pic for you let me know. Believe me it works good  hth
> 
> Kansas



Ok, I gotcha now. 

Thanks


----------



## Urbicide

Kansas said:


> A 511a Oregon has the same type of stop if you look at one of those. If you have any more questions I can post a pic for you let me know. Believe me it works good  hth
> 
> Kansas



I am surprised that the Chinese did not copy that feature off of the Oregon grinder when they reverse engineered it. Someone should send them a note about that. Perhaps they could also manufacture their own shim & washer kits. Then Rob could have some peace & quiet. Heck, let's just send them a link to this thread.


----------



## Kansas

Urbicide said:


> I am surprised that the Chinese did not copy that feature off of the Oregon grinder when they reverse engineered it. Someone should send them a note about that. Perhaps they could also manufacture their own shim & washer kits. Then Rob could have some peace & quiet. Heck, let's just send them a link to this thread.



Yeah isnt that the truth! Now if the japs had built it would be very high quality with no feature left out fact they would have made a good product even better probably. 

Strange looking at prioritys put into certain products how cultures differ on engineering and design when they are in primary control of the product as to what they feel is necessary to operate properly when they are not bound by ISO. 

Kansas


----------



## Merlin636

I have read all 46 pages, and was wondering if the gentleman is still doing the shim kits and washers. If he is, please pm me. If not, does anyone have the dimensions of all the pieces. I have a machinist friend who could probably make them for me. 
BTW great site as I just joined.


----------



## Philbert

Kansas said:


> A 511a Oregon has the same type of stop if you look at one of those.



My 511A doesn't have that stop - must have changed over the years. Chinese must have copied my model year.

Philbert


----------



## William Balaska

511A's have been coming down in price, almost no reason to buy one of these.


----------



## whitedogone

parrisw said:


> What does this do?




Isn't that the flux capacitor? WDO


----------



## Philbert

Merlin636 said:


> BTW great site as I just joined


Welcome to A.S.!

Philbert


----------



## Kemper

computeruser said:


> On super sale. Look Here! Looks like it might be the Tecomec 136/Oregon 511A unit, in which case $100 is a freakin' steal.



Thats the one i have,i bought it a year ago and it works great! it will adjust to any angle you would need and comes with 3 grinding wheels, you won't be disapointed.


----------



## tawilson

William Balaska said:


> 511A's have been coming down in price, almost no reason to buy one of these.


If they were only twice as much, I'd have bought one instead of the Northern. But they still are more than triple the price.


----------



## William Balaska

If you look hard enough you'l find one for about $260 to your door, the Northern is now around $119 plus another fifteen to ship. You get what you pay for. I like deals to however I have no interest in supporting the number one exporter in the world.


----------



## Moss Man

William Balaska said:


> If you look hard enough you'l find one for about $260 to your door, the Northern is now around $119 plus another fifteen to ship. You get what you pay for. I like deals to however I have no interest in supporting the number one exporter in the world.




Buying only consumer goods that are made on American soil has become a challange indeed. Start looking at labels every time you buy and see what you find. I have a Northern Sharpener.


----------



## Only2cylinders

*My $.02 on the NH grinder*

Just found this site and it is great. Purchased my NH grinder about 2 months ago. I hade made some modifications before finding this site. The ring and spacer were the first mod. Made mine from plastic (milk jug). Easy to cut using scissors. One thing I noticed about the metal shim on post 187 is that the ends fall on each side of the casting boss. I think this may allow all clearance to toward this boss and not exactly center on all the bosses. I too had the problem of the shim spinning. But a dab from the old hot glue gun stopped that, allowing me to put the ends of the shim between the bosses. I think the hot glue would work for the steel shim also. One thing I did notice that my plastic shim did shows signs of wear after two months of use. (I just made a couple the last time the milk got all) Maybe I should try the steel one. 
I also filed the top of the guide rails. As for the rail spacers, I made some of different thickness. They are "hooked" kind of like a candy cane so I can change them without disassembly of the rails. I put a dab of the old hot glue on the rail mounting nuts (just so they would not fall out when loosing the mounting screws. I can now quickly change the rail gap to fit the chain I am working on.

One more modification I made was to the chain stop. When adjusting the chain stop left and right (so I would not grind the stop) the outer mounting hole fell onto the threaded part of the stud. (the stud is what I call the part the chain finger is mounted on) This allowed the chain finger to cock. Also, the stud was only fixed on one side of the bracket (using two nuts and a lock washer)
I used a 1/4 diameter bolt and threaded one end, careful not to thread too far allowing the chain finger to have full diameter when adjusted to the outside. The other end I tightened a nut against the first side of the bracket and the other side used two nuts as the original. This help take up the clearance the stud passed through the hole. (hey, every little bit helps)
Depending on the spring you use (I put a bit heaver spring on) you may need a small spacer sleeve on the outside of the stud. I had to use a wing nut to replace the plastic knob on the stud, as it was metric and I did not have a metric die to cut the treads.
As for centering after all the modifications, I can hold about .015 in max difference from left to right cutter length. 
Thanks for a great site


----------



## parrisw

Only2cylinders said:


> Just found this site and it is great. Purchased my NH grinder about 2 months ago. I hade made some modifications before finding this site. The ring and spacer were the first mod. Made mine from plastic (milk jug). Easy to cut using scissors. One thing I noticed about the metal shim on post 187 is that the ends fall on each side of the casting boss. I think this may allow all clearance to toward this boss and not exactly center on all the bosses. I too had the problem of the shim spinning. But a dab from the old hot glue gun stopped that, allowing me to put the ends of the shim between the bosses. I think the hot glue would work for the steel shim also. One thing I did notice that my plastic shim did shows signs of wear after two months of use. (I just made a couple the last time the milk got all) Maybe I should try the steel one.
> I also filed the top of the guide rails. As for the rail spacers, I made some of different thickness. They are "hooked" kind of like a candy cane so I can change them without disassembly of the rails. I put a dab of the old hot glue on the rail mounting nuts (just so they would not fall out when loosing the mounting screws. I can now quickly change the rail gap to fit the chain I am working on.
> 
> One more modification I made was to the chain stop. When adjusting the chain stop left and right (so I would not grind the stop) the outer mounting hole fell onto the threaded part of the stud. (the stud is what I call the part the chain finger is mounted on) This allowed the chain finger to cock. Also, the stud was only fixed on one side of the bracket (using two nuts and a lock washer)
> I used a 1/4 diameter bolt and threaded one end, careful not to thread too far allowing the chain finger to have full diameter when adjusted to the outside. The other end I tightened a nut against the first side of the bracket and the other side used two nuts as the original. This help take up the clearance the stud passed through the hole. (hey, every little bit helps)
> Depending on the spring you use (I put a bit heaver spring on) you may need a small spacer sleeve on the outside of the stud. I had to use a wing nut to replace the plastic knob on the stud, as it was metric and I did not have a metric die to cut the treads.
> As for centering after all the modifications, I can hold about .015 in max difference from left to right cutter length.
> Thanks for a great site



Could you post some pics of your mods? 

Thanks


----------



## micoyote1

Are there any of the shim and washer kit still available....if so how do it get them?

Thanks:greenchainsaw:


----------



## 7oaks

parrisw said:


> Could you post some pics of your mods?
> 
> Thanks



:agree2:


----------



## Moss Man

:agree2:


----------



## Moss Man

I finally got to sharpen a few chains with mine the other day and even though the chains were acceptable, things just didn't seem right with the sharpener. I commenced to sit down and read through the pages in this thread to capture the secrets of others. I had already done a couple of the "sanding" mods, but haven't got the washer and shim kit yet.

The 10 degree tilt on mine was nothing short of a nightmare and this is what I found when I dug in:





I ground that casting hump down and sanded the whole area. It now tilts smoothly in both directions.

The second issue was that the vice just wouldn't tighten down well, I added a flat washer over the cupped one that came with it and that didn't allow it to tighten either. I ended up adding 3 flat washers and it tightens nicely now, I have to assume that a spacer was missing when I got the sharpener?
The spring is in there:





Another sore spot was the play in the mount for the motor where it attached to the base. I had already filed the back like recommended, but didn't take off the 4 small posts shown in this photo:










What a difference that made, the mount now tightens down much more securely with the added surface against the base plate. Those 4 posts must have been put there to make the motor mount swivel easier? I see no need for them, the things swivels better without them.

The last item was to perform what another person here recommended, put a bolt in the chain rails out on the long end where the gap was too wide and the chain would bind:





The chain glides smoothly now that the gap is uniform all the way across.

The next chains should come out better and the whole operation should be a little quicker.

The rig is a cheaper knock off, but I am on a budget at the moment and look forward to this speeding up the sharpening process. The firewood processor dulls a chain at least every cord and a half and sometimes alot quicker than that, so this is a big time saver for me! 

Thanx to all the others who have taken the time to post their fixes. I hope these help someone else. Pay it forward.


----------



## tree md

*These grinders are back on sale for $90*

These grinders are back on sale for $90. I am ordering one. I bought one back when they were on sale for $100 and gave it to one of the guys who worked for me at the time as a gift. He couldn't leave the bottle alone after work long enough to ever put the thing together. We are no longer on good terms so I decided to buy one for myself. Cost to send them out and have them ground has gone up here and they burn them up and take too much off anyway. I decided to just bite the bullet and grind my own. Reading though this entire thread for the second time to see what mods I need to do. Great thread!


----------



## Kansas

I have been real happy with my grinder its still working great no complaints and worth every penny.

Kansas


----------



## Moss Man

tree md said:


> These grinders are back on sale for $90. I am ordering one. I bought one back when they were on sale for $100 and gave it to one of the guys who worked for me at the time as a gift. He couldn't leave the bottle alone after work long enough to ever put the thing together. We are no longer on good terms so I decided to buy one for myself. Cost to send them out and have them ground has gone up here and they burn them up and take too much off anyway. I decided to just bite the bullet and grind my own. Reading though this entire thread for the second time to see what mods I need to do. Great thread!



Once you tinker on it for a couple hours, you'll love it! You can still burn teeth even taking the smallest amount off, you just have to be patient and have a light touch bringing the wheel down ever so slowly. After a few chains you'll be singing right along, good luck with it! $90. is a steal really, what other tool like it can you buy for that price?


----------



## tree md

Here's the deal clincher for me: I had two 25 inch, Stihl RCS chains for my 044. an older one that was rocked and a newer one that I used twice before I hit a piece of metal in a tree. Both rocked out chains. I hand sharpened both of these chains and fixed the rocked teeth with a hand file. Both chains had a lot of meat left to them. Had to take both chains in yesterday because I have some big stuff to buck and a large stump to noodle and hand filing just wasn't cutting it anymore.I hate taking them in because they usually take the teeth down way to far and burn them up. Well the guy sharpened one of the rocked chains that I had reshaped hand filing but said he couldn't do the other one because of the messed up tooth. I had reshaped the teeth on both chains and they were nearly identical. He said I would have to hand file the other chain because of the rocked tooth. Oh well, at least he didn't burn the chain he did grind up this time and I would rather him not sharpen the other one if he is going to take every cutter down to the size of the rocked tooth. Anyway, It was the deal sealer on buying my own grinder. That and the fact that they went from $5 to $8 to grind a chain.

$104.51 with shipping.


----------



## masiman

tree md said:


> Here's the deal clincher for me: I had two 25 inch, Stihl RCS chains for my 044. an older one that was rocked and a newer one that I used twice before I hit a piece of metal in a tree. Both rocked out chains. I hand sharpened both of these chains and fixed the rocked teeth with a hand file. Both chains had a lot of meat left to them. Had to take both chains in yesterday because I have some big stuff to buck and a large stump to noodle and hand filing just wasn't cutting it anymore.I hate taking them in because they usually take the teeth down way to far and burn them up. Well the guy sharpened one of the rocked chains that I had reshaped hand filing but said he couldn't do the other one because of the messed up tooth. I had reshaped the teeth on both chains and they were nearly identical. He said I would have to hand file the other chain because of the rocked tooth. Oh well, at least he didn't burn the chain he did grind up this time and I would rather him not sharpen the other one if he is going to take every cutter down to the size of the rocked tooth. Anyway, It was the deal sealer on buying my own grinder. That and the fact that they went from $5 to $8 to grind a chain.
> 
> $104.51 with shipping.



Do pick up some better wheels. The ones that come with it were not worth anything. Mine had all sorts of runout on them. Someone else had theirs explode IIRC.

Baileys and probably other sponsors carry the Oregon and Molemab wheels. Get a dressing stone if you go that route. I ended up buying a set of CBN wheels (non-segmented, ~$130/per). What a difference! No runout, seems to not burn the cutters as easily. I am not sure how the Oregon and Molemab wheels do compared to the CBN's. The segmented CBN's are the real quality units but I couldn't justify that cost (~$250/per).


----------



## Moss Man

masiman said:


> Do pick up some better wheels. The ones that come with it were not worth anything. Mine had all sorts of runout on them. Someone else had theirs explode IIRC.
> 
> Baileys and probably other sponsors carry the Oregon and Molemab wheels. Get a dressing stone if you go that route. I ended up buying a set of CBN wheels (non-segmented, ~$130/per). What a difference! No runout, seems to not burn the cutters as easily. I am not sure how the Oregon and Molemab wheels do compared to the CBN's. The segmented CBN's are the real quality units but I couldn't justify that cost (~$250/per).



$130. per wheel or set of wheels? Without getting to detailed, perhaps you can clue us in on where to buy these. Then again, it would be hard to justify spending that much on a set of wheels for a grinder that only cost $90. to begin with......most of us got them because we can't afford the top of the line.


----------



## tree md

I have a friend who's got a line on some Oregon wheels. I bought a set of Oregon wheels back when I bought the first grinder for the former employee. Never got a chance to use that one though. I'll look into a better dressing block as well. I'm kind of looking forward to setting this one up and tinkering with it. I figured if I grind every chain I currently have it would more than pay for the grinder. I think I've got 14 chains. If I just grind them all one cycle the savings would add up to $112 that I would have to pay to have them ground. Not to mention the money I will save by not grinding the teeth to nubs or bluing them and having to buy new chains much more frequently.


----------



## masiman

Moss Man said:


> $130. per wheel or set of wheels? Without getting to detailed, perhaps you can clue us in on where to buy these. Then again, it would be hard to justify spending that much on a set of wheels for a grinder that only cost $90. to begin with......most of us got them because we can't afford the top of the line.



Ya, they are currently about $130/per wheel. I happened to buy mine on sale from Foley for ~$75 each. Much more affordable, I don't think I would have bitten at the current price. I figured even if I did not like or wore out the NT grinder, the wheels can move onto whatever grinder I move onto next.

If you were coming to the VA/WV/PA/MD GTG on Saturday, you could try it out .

Glad that you have wheels ready to go tree md. Try out the ones they ship with it, but I don't recall anyone saying theirs were good to work with.


----------



## tree md

$130 per wheel, Yikes!

I don't think I can afford the clams for that right now. $75 sounds steep but if it lasted for the life of the grinder it prolly wouldn't be a bad deal. I have been advised to use other wheels than what comes with it. I will check out the Oregon wheels and see how they do. If I have a problem with them I'll upgrade to whatever I need to. I am a total novice at this and have never even ground one chain before. Only hand filed before. I am looking forward to learning how to do it.

EDIT: Wish I could come to the GTG and learn some pointers on how to use the thing.


----------



## masiman

I don't know if I am using mine correctly either but I am happy with the results . The Bailey's wheel will be fine, Oregon and Molemab are what they sell.

People have been writing in another thread about running at 60/30/10. If you secure a chain in the vise and match the wheel to the current profile, you'll quickly figure out what those angles refer too. I don't necessarily trust the pop riveted angle guides they use, so I pretty much match the wheel to what exists. I haven't checked the results against my file-o-plate but I should. It should be pretty obvious which way you should tilt the chain table, if tilting is required for your chain.

Download the instructions for the Oregon 511. The NT grinder is a complete knockoff of the Oregon and the instructions are near identical. The supplied instructions are good if your kids need drawing paper.


----------



## tree md

I have downloaded the 511A manual and have been reading it. Trying to get a head start before the grinder gets here. Like I said, the closest I have ever gotten to grinding a chain is watching someone do it at the shop. Hopefully it won't be too steep of a learning curve. I am pretty mechanically inclined so hopefully I can figure out how to set it up and sharpen a chain. If I can get some of these old chains throwing big chips I'll be a happy camper.


----------



## Moss Man

The 511A manual really really helps clear any issues you might have for set up and if you post a question here it usually will be answered shortly.


----------



## Kansas

tree md said:


> I have downloaded the 511A manual and have been reading it. Trying to get a head start before the grinder gets here. Like I said, the closest I have ever gotten to grinding a chain is watching someone do it at the shop. Hopefully it won't be too steep of a learning curve. I am pretty mechanically inclined so hopefully I can figure out how to set it up and sharpen a chain. If I can get some of these old chains throwing big chips I'll be a happy camper.



Tree MD, here is what I did to correct a defect in my grinder the scales were way off, this may help you get pretty repeatable cuts right off its not scientific or particularly accurate but it worked fine and still is.

I took a brand new properly ground chain (some chains are not so good brand new get a good one for this) and set the scales to *it* as far as 30 degree table angle 60 degree arm etc and I marked the scales accordingly, pull the arm down with the motor off and move chain into the wheel with the thumb screw and adjust as necessary and mark, then turn the table and check the opposite tooth and see how close your centerline is. 

Not much you can do about the centerline its part of the whole housing how it was cast and drilled its just so you know if you have to make a slight adjustment when changing to the other side of the chain with the chain advance thumbwheel. 

(I went and ground my chains anyway now I dont have to make any adjustments one side teeth are a tiny bit shorter maybe .005-.010" but no probs)

I suppose a person could pull the rivits and just move the scales but I could live with it like that marking was easy also I use the specs on a new chain box as far as table tilt 10 degrees etc for that particular chain.

hth

Kansas


----------



## tree md

Well it came today. 

The box was beat to hell and the smallest wheel was broken but everything else seems to be in good shape. I got half way through the parts list and decided to wait until the sun goes down to finish. It's still a hundred degrees here and I've been out in it all day. No AC in the shop and the high was 102 today. I'll go out when it's a little cooler and assemble it after I sand the contact points and maybe try to make a shim for it. If everything looks OK I'll just keep it and write the smaller wheel off. I plan on buying other wheels for it anyway. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions to follow. Glad I have this thread to refer to.


----------



## Urbicide

Bailey's has got their Molemab brand wheels on sale. I recently was at my Stihl / *** dealer when I had him order me an 1/8" Oregon wheel without me first asking how much. Thought the wheel must have been made in Germany or Sweden, for when I went back to pay for it, $35 appeared on the cash register screen. (It was made in Mexico.) Glad I didn't order the 3/16".

http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=molemab 5-3/4&catID=10000


----------



## tree md

Thanks for the tip!


----------



## tree md

Well, Looks like I'll have to be sending this one back. I finally got the lag bolts I needed to mount it and finally got the time to mount it this evening. Way too much vibration when I mounted the wheel. I shut it down and hand spun the wheel. It's got a side to side wobble. Took the wheel off and mounted the washers and screw and free wheeled it. The mountings are wobbling. Looks like it was dropped and damaged in transit...


----------



## jra1100

I think that somewhere in transit there is someone hired to beat the Schmitt out of these grinders. I got mine on an ebay auction from a place that specializes in damaged freight. I got it for 19 bucks plus shipping. It had a broken wheel and the place where the handle went was broken. A call to Bailyes and a bit of JB weld and she was fine. Check ebay for one. JR


----------



## MontanaMan

Ok ... I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this one. I read the entire thread, every post. Just ordered it tonight. $89.99.

What's funny is this: If this thing had been perfect out of the box, I probably could have resisted it. But the idea of buying it and modifying it to make it better was just way too much fun to pass up. I love to use (and drive) stuff that I've worked on.

Anyway, I called a local hobby shop and they have stainless steel shim stock in various sizes, including .010 and .012 for only $0.55 each, so it should be very easy to make a just-right sized shim. I haven't figured out how to make the special washer yet, but I'll be sure to post when i do. I'm going to do all the mods on this forum, and maybe a few extras I've been kicking around in my head from reading this post. I'll try to be good about pics and a writeup.

Anybody figure out how to run it in reverse?

Thanks for all the good info.


----------



## Moss Man

MontanaMan said:


> Ok ... I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this one. I read the entire thread, every post. Just ordered it tonight. $89.99.
> 
> What's funny is this: If this thing had been perfect out of the box, I probably could have resisted it. But the idea of buying it and modifying it to make it better was just way too much fun to pass up. I love to use (and drive) stuff that I've worked on.
> 
> Anyway, I called a local hobby shop and they have stainless steel shim stock in various sizes, including .010 and .012 for only $0.55 each, so it should be very easy to make a just-right sized shim. I haven't figured out how to make the special washer yet, but I'll be sure to post when i do. I'm going to do all the mods on this forum, and maybe a few extras I've been kicking around in my head from reading this post. I'll try to be good about pics and a writeup.
> 
> Anybody figure out how to run it in reverse?
> 
> Thanks for all the good info.



If memory serves correctly, the experts here came to the conclusion that it can't be run backwards. I have done quite a few chains without the backwards feature and it hasn't been an issue.


----------



## matt9923

I just finished reading all 48 pages. 
Iv had my grinder since 2006 still works great. 
Never did any mods to it. Definitely could use them. 

I doubt any kits are left but if their are ill buy one. 

With the 10 degree thing, witch way do i tilt it? Iv been using it in the middle for a while and that seems to work but if 10 degrees works better i'm all for it. 
I read everything and the manual, and i have to move the plate 10 degrees front or back when I'm grinding left or right hand cutters? 

When mine is runnign and i let go of the handle it vibrates like a mf when its straight up so i want to add a bolt to stop it from going up. 

I know I'm only a few yeas late on this topic but...
Thanks Matt


----------



## Moss Man

matt9923 said:


> I just finished reading all 48 pages.
> Iv had my grinder since 2006 still works great.
> Never did any mods to it. Definitely could use them.
> 
> I doubt any kits are left but if their are ill buy one.
> 
> With the 10 degree thing, witch way do i tilt it? Iv been using it in the middle for a while and that seems to work but if 10 degrees works better i'm all for it.
> I read everything and the manual, and i have to move the plate 10 degrees front or back when I'm grinding left or right hand cutters?
> 
> When mine is runnign and i let go of the handle it vibrates like a mf when its straight up so i want to add a bolt to stop it from going up.
> 
> I know I'm only a few yeas late on this topic but...
> Thanks Matt



You want the tip of the tooth that you are sharpening pointing downward.


----------



## matt9923

Moss Man said:


> You want tip of the tooth that you are sharpening pointing downward.



Thank you!!


----------



## beanz4brainz

*Shim and Washer Kit.*

Hi all,

Just wondering if anybody is supplying the shim and washer kits. I'll ask on here to avoid bothering anyone by PM'ing

Just got my grinder via UPS football flatening service and only suffered a few scuffs and a broken 1/8" wheel. Not to foul for 8500 miles of football mayhem.

So far, the head is good and the wheels run fairly true, but the vyce is unusable without the mould flash and other extraenous appendages, ground, sanded and generally re-manufactured.

For $219.50 Australian, delivered, this is a steal!! 


b4b.


----------



## bozzchem

I just purchased mine for $90 and mounted it. I'm very new to this so just figured I'd wallow my way through...after reading the first 20 pages of this thread.

The posts on this thread are EXCELLENT and will help me get this to the point it should be. I know the local guy charges $7 per chain and is using the Oregon. I'm guessing the NT will pay for itself quickly once I get it set up properly.

My question is regarding the slag I had to get rid of to allow for tilting inwards to the 10 degree mark. I had it mounted, none of the wheels were damaged and the wheels ran true. No matter what I tried, it wouldn't move to the 10 degree inside mark.

I pulled off the spacer and felt under there only to find a large piece of slag that had nothing to do with the construction of the unit. I pulled out the dremel and ground it down to the point where the unit slides easily between both outer and inner marks for the 10 degree.

Has anyone else run into this?

See pics.

Also, is anyone still selling the kits to tighten this unit up? Looks like this thread was started a few years back so am just curious. I looked for a vid on youtube to see how to get it all set up but didn't see one that fit the bill. Pictures are worth 1000 words. Videos are worth books!

Thanks for putting up with me!

Respond directly or via PM. I'd like to get this set up and good to go. I noticed it was grinding the teeth to different lengths as is so would like to get her set up for the long haul.

You guys rock!


----------



## matt9923

bozzchem said:


> I just purchased mine for $90 and mounted it. I'm very new to this so just figured I'd wallow my way through...after reading the first 20 pages of this thread.
> 
> The posts on this thread are EXCELLENT and will help me get this to the point it should be. I know the local guy charges $7 per chain and is using the Oregon. I'm guessing the NT will pay for itself quickly once I get it set up properly.
> 
> My question is regarding the slag I had to get rid of to allow for tilting inwards to the 10 degree mark. I had it mounted, none of the wheels were damaged and the wheels ran true. No matter what I tried, it wouldn't move to the 10 degree inside mark.
> 
> I pulled off the spacer and felt under there only to find a large piece of slag that had nothing to do with the construction of the unit. I pulled out the dremel and ground it down to the point where the unit slides easily between both outer and inner marks for the 10 degree.
> 
> Has anyone else run into this?
> 
> See pics.
> 
> Also, is anyone still selling the kits to tighten this unit up? Looks like this thread was started a few years back so am just curious. I looked for a vid on youtube to see how to get it all set up but didn't see one that fit the bill. Pictures are worth 1000 words. Videos are worth books!
> 
> Thanks for putting up with me!
> 
> Respond directly or via PM. I'd like to get this set up and good to go. I noticed it was grinding the teeth to different lengths as is so would like to get her set up for the long haul.
> 
> You guys rock!



Looks good to me! I did the same thing. Lats I knew the kits were long gone.


----------



## bigredd

Looks like you got the major burr ground sufficient. Look on the inside of the bowl and sand down any molding irregularities. Also sand off any paint at friction points on rotating surfaces. 

I bought some $10 molemab grinding wheels (Italian made) at Baileysonline which are much better quality.


----------



## bozzchem

Just figuring out and learning. The chains get damn sharp but they end up different sizes on the teeth.

I'd love to plink down the coin to make this thing work like those who talked about it long ago.

I'm not unhappy since it's sharpening quickly. I'd just like to get the spacers/etc to bring it up to full snuff.

Thanks all!


----------



## madhatte

Just got one of these grinders after reading this thread, did all mods accordingly. Best $100 I ever made work spend! Nice machine for the money. Gonna get a lot of mileage out of this thing.


----------



## bozzchem

Man, I'm making mincemeat out of the chain I'm using as a test. Granted it's been to the shop twice for sharpening but it seems like the teeth are all ending up different sizes.

I've noticed when I tighten the chain using the tension bar, it seems to make the chain move to a slightly different angle than it was before adding tension. Is that normal?

I don't plan on putting the current chain back on a saw. I'm going to use it to get past my learning curve. How do you know when a tooth is too short and it's over with? 

Thanks!


----------



## deezlfan

Figure I'll add my contribution to this thread. My sharpener is a Timber Tuff from Tractor Supply. It appears to be identical to the Northern Tool grinder except the Poulan green color. Mine was a Christmas gift and was $129 at the time of purchase. Yes, more than the mail order grinder but no shipping and Tractor Supply doesn't question things too much when you claim a farm tax exemption. [Local laws may vary.] 












First thing was the clean up of the base casting both top and bottom. I also lightly cleaned up the bottom of the swivel casting and the cupped area that allows the 10 degree tilt. [No pictures there because it was just a fine touch and almost invisible.]











The top of this casting was leveled by draw filing it with a fine bastard/mill file. Draw filing is using the file in a left to right rather than a front to back motion. It is perfect for leveling the top and leaves a perfectly smooth surface. 






That accomplished, I started to search for a suitable shim to center the swivel casting. After searching the shop and finding nothing that would fill the bill, I stopped at the Home Depot and found these:











With a final bit of smoothing with the Dremel tool these fit perfectly. I cut mine to 9 5/8" long and using the locating method I saw earlier in this thread [Sorry the flash washed this photo out.] fitted the ends like this:






Next, I tackled the washer. Simply using a compass I scribed one out of the side of a milk jug. This worked well, but I feel it lifts the swivel casting up too high and makes the casting looser than I liked. At this point I decided to simply toss the washer and grease the contact surfaces with di-electric grease. It has been mentioned that there could be some contamination of the grease over time but the balls and springs in the 10 degree angle tilt assembly are treated with this grease from the factory. If occasional cleaning is required, so be it. I like the tight fit without the washer and will deal with the maintenance as needed.

Next up will be the modifications to the chain stop and guide rails. I will post them as they come together.


----------



## 7oaks

opcorn:


----------



## bozzchem

deezlfan said:


> Next up will be the modifications to the chain stop and guide rails. I will post them as they come together.



Looking forward to them! Your grinder looks identical so I'm sure any mods you make will be equivalent. 

I definitely see issues with the guide rails surrounding the chain so am anxiously awaiting your discoveries. Your pointer to the Home Depot fix was awesome. I'll be picking those up tomorrow night if my local HD carries them and will get them installed.

I posted earlier that it seems tightening the chain on the guide rails puts the chain off center. The chain seems centered, then you tighten it and the chain looks skewed. Keep in mind that I know little to nothing so am just along for the ride and trying to learn. I grew tired of dropping $7 per chain for sharpening so bought this grinder. I figure I'll kill a chain or two but will eventually have it doing what it's meant to do.

I'd still love someone to post a pic of a tooth that says "I'm done" and it's time to put the chain to rest. I don't want to crank my saws up with unsafe chains.


----------



## parrisw

bozzchem said:


> Looking forward to them! Your grinder looks identical so I'm sure any mods you make will be equivalent.
> 
> I definitely see issues with the guide rails surrounding the chain so am anxiously awaiting your discoveries. Your pointer to the Home Depot fix was awesome. I'll be picking those up tomorrow night if my local HD carries them and will get them installed.
> 
> I posted earlier that it seems tightening the chain on the guide rails puts the chain off center. The chain seems centered, then you tighten it and the chain looks skewed. Keep in mind that I know little to nothing so am just along for the ride and trying to learn. I grew tired of dropping $7 per chain for sharpening so bought this grinder. I figure I'll kill a chain or two but will eventually have it doing what it's meant to do.
> 
> I'd still love someone to post a pic of a tooth that says "I'm done" and it's time to put the chain to rest. I don't want to crank my saws up with unsafe chains.



When you get it you'll know what a good chain looks like. Do you have any new ones you can look at?

One mod I did was to take the chain vise apart and make it narrower, there was a couple of humps on the inside and a couple of spacers I filed everything down a bit, if you narrower it some it will center the chain better.


----------



## bozzchem

parrisw said:


> When you get it you'll know what a good chain looks like. Do you have any new ones you can look at?
> 
> One mod I did was to take the chain vise apart and make it narrower, there was a couple of humps on the inside and a couple of spacers I filed everything down a bit, if you narrower it some it will center the chain better.



Yes, I have a new chain to use as a guide. Since the teeth are new, I don't really see how they will guide me other than with angles. 

I want to know what an overground, unsafe chain looks like so I don't end up using one. 

I'll definitely look at the chain vise and see if there are problems I can fix with a little grinding work. Lord knows it wouldn't even work for left handed teeth until it met my dremel. I guess that's what happens when you pick up the knockoff rather than the real deal?


----------



## parrisw

bozzchem said:


> Yes, I have a new chain to use as a guide. Since the teeth are new, I don't really see how they will guide me other than with angles.
> 
> I want to know what an overground, unsafe chain looks like so I don't end up using one.
> 
> I'll definitely look at the chain vise and see if there are problems I can fix with a little grinding work. Lord knows it wouldn't even work for left handed teeth until it met my dremel. I guess that's what happens when you pick up the knockoff rather than the real deal?



You can get good chains without touching a thing on the grinder, you just have to pay attention to it and adjust as you go from right to left. I don't think you can make a chain unsafe, unless you take down the rakers too much.


----------



## bozzchem

parrisw said:


> You can get good chains without touching a thing on the grinder, you just have to pay attention to it and adjust as you go from right to left. I don't think you can make a chain unsafe, unless you take down the rakers too much.



With over 5000 posts, you da man!

I haven't even measured the rakers yet so maybe my chain isn't completely dead? I figure better safe than sorry. I'll let the current chain be my huckleberry and will make the next one be one I have confidence in. 

A $25 chain wasted for the learning curve beats a visit to Urgent Care. 

I sure do appreciate all of the information you guys are willing to share!


----------



## parrisw

bozzchem said:


> With over 5000 posts, you da man!
> 
> I haven't even measured the rakers yet so maybe my chain isn't completely dead? I figure better safe than sorry. I'll let the current chain be my huckleberry and will make the next one be one I have confidence in.
> 
> A $25 chain wasted for the learning curve beats a visit to Urgent Care.
> 
> I sure do appreciate all of the information you guys are willing to share!



See if you can find someone with some old wore out chains you can try on.


----------



## matt9923

I might have some chains to test if you want.


----------



## OhioGregg

deezlfan, I love the color on that TSC grinder !! LOL, I'm an old Poulan nut. That would match most of my saws pretty well. I just got one of the Northern Tool purple ones at Christmas time. I been playing with it some, seems to do a good job. Havn't done any cutting with chains I have ground yet. I don't forsee a problem though, they look good to me. Time will tell.


Gregg,


----------



## Moss Man

I just tried to go to the old link we were using to view the Oregon 511A user manual and it doesn't work anymore. I anyone has a working link I would appreciate it..............the Northern paper version isn't helpful at all.


----------



## parrisw

Moss Man said:


> I just tried to go to the old link we were using to view the Oregon 511A user manual and it doesn't work anymore. I anyone has a working link I would appreciate it..............the Northern paper version isn't helpful at all.



I think I may have it in PDF, I can email it to you if ya want. Let me c if I can find it.


----------



## Stihl088stock

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/accessories/511AManual_3Lang.pdf

works from my end


----------



## deezlfan

*Sorry, broken link.*

Here is the image that was deleted in my earlier post.


----------



## jczv

*Quick note*

If anybodies looking at these the northern web site has them listed on sale for $101. They had them in stock at the local store but the price still said $119 - when I got to the checkout they guy said they really were on sale for $82 (and you can get a 2 year replacement warranty for another $10).


----------



## Coyote150

Hello all, I'm new to the site. Have a very general question on this grinder. Been reading this thread for a while now. I've never had one of these things. Always did mine by hand. Took them to someone else once in a while to be ground. I'm not a professional but do my own firewood cutting and some tree work on the side. Also get some requests to sharpen chains for others. Would one of these NT Grinders be a good starter for me?


----------



## danrclem

It would all depend on how many times you sharpen your chains, how well you can sharpen your chains and how much wood you cut. I love my NT sharpener so I'm going to say yes, by all means get one. Just be prepared to take a little time setting it up right and learning how to use it.


edit; Oh yeah, welcome to the site.


----------



## tree md

I am a total rookie at sharpening chains but mine is working nicely for me. It is the only one I have every owned or used so I don't have anything to compare by but it does a fine job of sharpening my chains and I use my saws commercially.


----------



## Hddnis

jczv said:


> If anybodies looking at these the northern web site has them listed on sale for $101. They had them in stock at the local store but the price still said $119 - when I got to the checkout they guy said they really were on sale for $82 (and you can get a 2 year replacement warranty for another $10).





Edit: Never mind, I found it. They don't call it a chain grinder, but rather a sharpener. 

Do you have a link by any chance? I've been searching their site and can't seem to find this grinder. Thanks



Mr. HE


----------



## Coyote150

Thanks for the input guys. Think I'm gonna go ahead and order one. 

One more thing, I saw on here somewhere that there was an "upgrade kit". Something like a shim and a washer or something? Anyone know anything about it? Is it needed? Have they corrected the current ones from the factory?


Hddnis, did you find what you were looking for?


----------



## OhioGregg

Coyote150 said:


> Thanks for the input guys. Think I'm gonna go ahead and order one.
> 
> One more thing, I saw on here somewhere that there was an "upgrade kit". Something like a shim and a washer or something? Anyone know anything about it? Is it needed? Have they corrected the current ones from the factory?
> 
> 
> Hddnis, did you find what you were looking for?



I think the "kit" you speak of was something a member here had made to fine tune it, but that has been quite a while ago. I think if you make sure the paint & casting excess on the mating surfaces are cleaned up, you'll be fine.
Particularly where the vise mount rotates, to make it smooth.
Thats all I did to mine, and bought a couple "better" wheels from Bailey's.


Gregg,


----------



## Coyote150

Thanks OG and all for your info.

I've found some of these sites to be somewhat "cliquey". Apparently not this one. I appreciate the replies being a newcomer. Thanks again!


----------



## Hddnis

Coyote150 said:


> Thanks OG and all for your info.
> 
> I've found some of these sites to be somewhat "cliquey". Apparently not this one. I appreciate the replies being a newcomer. Thanks again!




Just wait till you really get to know us.:greenchainsaw:

And yes, I did find it finally. I guess it was a symantics problem on my end.



Mr. HE


----------



## Streblerm

*Northern customer service?*

Well, I finally bit the bullet and ordered one of these machines. After reading about this thing for over a year, learning of its shortcomings and fixes, I pulled the trigger during the last sale. I have to say I am starting to regret my decision. Time will tell...

I spent some time cleaning the castings and shimming the unit. I had it all put together and started sharpening a chain. The first thing I noticed was the slop in the "hinge." I have been using the Harbor Freight unit for rocked out chains and the NT unit seemed just about as sloppy. This just didn't seem right, Why bother shimming the vice if the hinge is sloppy? but I started sharpening a chain that contacted a vein of concrete in a yard tree i was bucking.

After the first sharpening, I noticed that I had wildly different cutter sizes, so I started using it like the HF unit, that is, holding it to one side. I made it about halfway around the chain again and the pin in the hinge moved enough that the hinge separated. This caused The spring to push the hinge apart and broke the casting that the pivot pin goes through on the upper part of the grinder

Analysis of the failure revealed several problems. First, the pivot pin was not knurled correctly allowing it to move out of place as the grinder was lowered and raised. This also caused it to pivot on the casting, not the bushing which accounts for the slop. The second flaw was a bubble in the casting of the arm where the pin goes through. Had this casting flaw not existed, it probably wouldn't have disintegrated when the pin came out. I probably would've been able to reassemble and re-knurl the pin, but here I am with a junk grinder several hours of playing around.

Now to the customer service. I called immediately, last Saturday, and talked to a very friendly CSR who gave me a return authorization. She explained that it would be until Monday before someone would e-mail a prepaid shipping label, and it would take about two weeks to turn everything around, and would that be OK? Well, I was leaving for work on Sunday night so I had my wife watch my e-mail for the return label. It never showed.

When I got home on Friday, I called customer service again. This time I got a slightly less friendly CSR who informed me that it was my responsibility to mail the broken item back. I argued that it was a poorly made unit that caused the failure, it didn't even perform its intended function once, and that I did not feel that I was responsible for return shipping. We volleyed back and forth a few times on the issue and she finally agreed to send me a return label "within 24hrs"

Well, here I am, 24hrs later, with a broken grinder and no return label. I guess another call is in order on Monday as the weekend call did not prove to work out so well. I am of the mind at this point to just return the POS. I would too, had I not ordered replacement grinding wheels from Bailey's already.

My local Stihl dealer had one of the Italian jobbies on sale in the low $300 range. After seeing the quality of this unit, I think maybe I should just cut my losses and buy a decent one. I was fully prepared to do some "fine tuning", but I have to say that the $29 HF grinder has proven itself to be a better buy than the NT unit so far. At least the HF completely sharpened some chains.

Stay tuned, I'll let you know how it turns out.


----------



## justlearning

*Washer/Shim Kit Availability?*

I just wanted to revive the question of availability of washers/ shims for the NT Grinder. Many years have passed since the original kits were on offer, and I can't find any recent discussion of a way to order them. I tried PMing, but (understandably) mailboxes were full. 

As someone with the grinder and an interest in making it perform better, but without a machine shop, I'd be willing to pay well over the $3 to anyone who can set me up with the supplies!

Thanks!


----------



## EXFFPM

*My Northern Sharpener #193020 arrived today....*

....and as seemed to be the case in many of the posts, the box was in pretty bad shape! Holding my breath, I cut the nylon straps and opened it and everything was in good shape, even though everything was all just packed loose in the box. $104 plus some change total and included three intact wheels. Started making the tuning tips listed on the number of posts on this site and am just curious, as a considerable number of other posters, if the washer and shim Stihl 041 was making is still available? Only things I found wrong so far is the rivet holding one end of the top plate angle gauge doesn't stay in place and the threads for the top screw that holds the shield guard/arbor shield aren't tapped clean so can't attach the top of the clear plastic blade guard t'ill I get a metric tap to clean them up. One suggestion I would make if I ordered one today is to call Northen Tool as I did and ask the sales person to double box the unit as you have had problems with damaged units in the past....it might be worth a try? Has anyone identified a specific spring for the chain stop? And I am still unclear regarding "centering the cutter under the grinding wheel"?

Thanks to all for taking the time to post all the tips to fine tune the function of this grinder.

EXFFPM


----------



## EXFFPM

*More tuning tips for Northern sharpener....*

After reading the earlier post re: the use of an 11" stainless wire tie for the base shim, I picked one up at Lowes and cut/bent it to fit and it made a huge difference in the excessive play of the chainvise mount. I also found that tightening the bolt holding the arm which holds the chainstop to eliminate the wobble wasn't possible until I shortened the bushing on the large bolt at the bottom which allowed the support arm for the tooth stop to fit flush against the cast bracket....no play now. If the bolt holding the toothstop itself was the exact size to eliminate the wobble in that part, I would expect the tooth lengths to be the same on every cut?


----------



## 3fordasho

*Picked up a Timber-tuff version*

Just picked up the TSC/fleet farm version of this grinder with the "Timber Tuff" branding. Seems to work just fine after a bit of cleaning up of casting flashing (wouldn't let me get the 10 deg angle on the chain holder). About the second time I used it the motor would not start with out giving the wheel a slight spin. This can't be normal but it will allow me to reverse the wheel depending on which way I spin it on start up. Anyone else experience this issue?


----------



## tawilson

Sounds like a nice option. Some people have to rewire them to do that.


----------



## Urbicide

3fordasho said:


> About the second time I used it the motor would not start with out giving the wheel a slight spin. This can't be normal but it will allow me to reverse the wheel depending on which way I spin it on start up. Anyone else experience this issue?



Well, that sure is interesting. I doubt that it is an OSHA approved method of motor reversing. I would not leave that grinder plugged in while it is not being used.


----------



## Streblerm

I forgot to update that NT made good on the replacement, although it took a few weeks. The second one was much better and the mods didn't take as long the second time around.

I still prefer sharpening with the granberg and a file. However the NT grinder has been helpful with some of the more messed up chains that I have. I still haven't gotten it down 100%. It seems like depth and wheel profile are really the keys to good sharpening. I'm getting better with it.


----------



## gemniii

Streblerm said:


> I forgot to update that NT made good on the replacement, although it took a few weeks. The second one was much better and the mods didn't take as long the second time around.


repped, followups are IMPORTANT. Lot's of peeps here look at HF, NT, TSC and automatically diss it as cheap chinese crap with poor support.

I view it as selecting the better ones. 
And while I'm posting I'd advise getting some type of clip on magnifying light.


----------



## zxcvbob

I just bought one of the Northern grinders -- $129 at the store, minus a $20 coupon makes it $110 plus tax. I opened it up at the checkout to make sure the wheels were not broken. (they were fine).

Are there any gotcha's that I need to watch for when setting the thing up? Mounting it on my reloading bench is probably a bad idea... 

I can't tell it will sharpen square-cut chains (not sure if that's the right terminology. 72CK). If not, do I just pretend it's a 72LP chisel chain? I only have one 72CK chain that I bought just to try it. The rest are normal chisel and semichisel chains.

I have some chains that I know the pitch and gauge but have no idea what cutters they have. Are the angles pretty standard and I can just pick something close from the Oregon chart?


----------



## tree md

You won't be able to grind square chain with the NT grinder. They make specific grinders for square chain. Silvey makes a popular one.


----------



## gtsawyer

After a few months of use, I can say the NT grinder is a whole lot better than the Harbor Freight crapola. I wish it had reverse, and that the tolerances were better, but for the price it's worth it (at least for me). Some day I'll upgrade to a higher quality unit (right after I buy a UTV). Maybe.

What I like:
* Price
* Tolerable build quality
* Nice sharp cutters

What I don't like:
* The casting flashings made a nice deep cut on my finger - NT owes me about 2oz of blood
* The chain stop/measuring thingy barely reaches the back of the cutter when sharpening in one direction - it needs to be wider
* I have to keep a veneer caliper handy when changing sides - otherwise the cutter length will differ by a couple of hundredths of an inch 
* I really want reverse, and hate the burr created when the wheel is running in the wrong direction

My 2xbit's worth


----------



## parrisw

gtsawyer said:


> After a few months of use, I can say the NT grinder is a whole lot better than the Harbor Freight crapola. I wish it had reverse, and that the tolerances were better, but for the price it's worth it (at least for me). Some day I'll upgrade to a higher quality unit (right after I buy a UTV). Maybe.
> 
> What I like:
> * Price
> * Tolerable build quality
> * Nice sharp cutters
> 
> What I don't like:
> * The casting flashings made a nice deep cut on my finger - NT owes me about 2oz of blood
> * The chain stop/measuring thingy barely reaches the back of the cutter when sharpening in one direction - it needs to be wider
> * I have to keep a veneer caliper handy when changing sides - otherwise the cutter length will differ by a couple of hundredths of an inch
> * I really want reverse, and hate the burr created when the wheel is running in the wrong direction
> 
> My 2xbit's worth


 
I agree with most of what you said. The burr thing although annoying to look at poses no problem, you can brush it off with your finger, and the cutter is nice and sharp. When changing sides yes the cutters can differ, the shim kit that one member was making works very well, and helps address the uneven cutters, you can make the shims yourself if you want to.


----------



## NuggyBuggy

Does NT still sell this, and if so, does anyone have a link ? Making a trip across the border and thinking about having one sent there. I searched their website but could onlynfind the portable grinder and the Oregon models.

Thanks !


----------



## Ductape

NuggyBuggy said:


> Does NT still sell this, and if so, does anyone have a link ? Making a trip across the border and thinking about having one sent there. I searched their website but could onlynfind the portable grinder and the Oregon models.
> 
> Thanks !






Northern Industrial Bench- or Wall-Mount Chain Saw Chain Sharpener | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance + Repair | Northern Tool + Equipment


----------



## NuggyBuggy

Ductape said:


> Northern Industrial Bench- or Wall-Mount Chain Saw Chain Sharpener | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance + Repair | Northern Tool + Equipment



Thanks Ductape. Unfortunately I have to pay for upgraded shipping to get the package by Thursday when I will probably be across the border, and I am a cheapskate. Regular UPS ground says 5-7 days which will be too slow.

Dang.


----------



## asdf4240

ericjeeper said:


> inside with a bit of play 3.140 tight was 3.132 outside needs to be around 3.535
> and for thickness. I would say anywhere between 15-30thousandths , basically whatever is handy, cheap or free



I know I'm digging up an old discussing but it there anyone who sells this washer?

Thanks


----------



## coloradotrout

Is there a summary of the mods? page 13 seemed to have:
- arm/base casting file
- vice shim
- vice washer


I read about 40 of the pages here and gave up -- sorry.


----------



## coloradotrout

The vise shim mod is worth it's weight in gold. I tried a coke can, than a soup can, and finally used some galvanized hvac pipe. Just tin snipped a thin strip and got it to fit snug. I won't be using this more than a few times a month, so did not worry about the gasket/washer mod in the same area. 

The biggest issue I have now is side to side play at the motor pivot. Upright, you can tip nearly 1/8". Some of that comes out as you lower the motor. I'll try to post a pic. 

But the vise shim made a huge difference in the cutter length consistency. I was about to permanently rearrange the molecules of this item last night. Now I can get most cutters to within .015 of each other.


----------



## Disaster

*Grinder Pictures*

I bought one of the Northern Grinders last November when NT had them on sale. I received a $20 off coupon in the mail glued inside of a sale flyer they mailed to me. Total cost was $89.00. When you get the grinder it is unassembled and in a cardboard box. 

The directions that come with the unit are worthless, so don't depend on them for anything. Simply schedule a couple of hours time to assemble, to clean up the castings with a grinder and to build a good mount. I took one of the AS members advice and picked up a pack of the aluminum zip ties and used one to shim the pivoting chain guide base. The zip ties are sold at Lowes in the electrical section. 

The NT sharpener comes with three different thicknesses of sharpening stones and one almost worthless dressing stone. If you are planning on using the machine to dress your rakes you will need to change the wheel out to the largest wheel after you grind your cutters. This only takes a minute or two. to the thicker Most posters here recommend to simply thrown the included grinder wheels away and replace them with Oregon which are the same size. You can get them from most sponsor vendors on this site or Amazon.

I have a friend who purchased 3 or these units and has them set up side by side. One for left, one for right and one rakes. This eliminates the need to spend the extra few minutes to recalibrate the pawl when switching between right and left cutters. Not to saw anything about changing the grinder wheel to dress the drags.

Check out the links to a couple of pictures on mine. I copied the design of one of the AS members. The oak mount allows me to secure in in a bench vise in my shop, or in a vise I have mounted in my enclosed trailer (I have a generator), or ratchet strapped to a tree or a post while in the field. This may seem odd but I am a disaster responder and many times I am deployed for weeks or months at a time. Chain loops are nearly impossible to get after a storm in an affected area and many times we use these grinders to sharpen 20 or 30 loops each evening.

This is not the best grinder on the market by any stretch, but for less than $100 you can't go wrong.

View attachment 225998


View attachment 225999


----------



## jus2fat

You get what you pay for when buying a chain grinder..!!

Even on sale (at times) for $89...I just can't make myself pull the trigger...
knowing I've got to fix it as soon as I would get it...

Just like the Poulan 'Wildthing' at TSC for $99..and have to add $50 to make it to suit me..!!

Maybe I'm just too old and weak ...and hate aggravating cheap-ass problems...

Or I've become all Wise and Knowing in my golden years..??...

Your call..!!..:msp_wink:

J2F


----------



## coloradotrout

I wish I had paid 89 -- it was 134 w/ shipping and tax even after being "on sale" for 109 now. But it was either spend money and hassle with having someone sharpen the chain or see about doing it myself. If there's a better deal in the next 60 days or so, I might hit them up about it.

Now that I have the vise shim -- it's much much improved. Again, I just used some 6" hvac pipe and tin snipped a 1/4" strip and fitted it in. That seems to be about the right size. The cutter lengths are nearly the same which was not the case before the shim. It's a very simple fix. I like the idea of the oak mount -- I was thinking of something similar. The aluminum casting is a bit weak, so adding the L-shaped frame and bolting both bottom and back will add some additional stability. 

I'd like to get some of the play out of the pivot pin -- we'll see. For now it's doing a decent job , much better than I can do with a file, especially on very worn cutters. 

I did get/read the Oregon manuals - a couple different ones, as they talk about setup a bit more clearly. The NT manual, though, does have a decent reference for the chain specs.


----------



## tree md

Disaster said:


> I bought one of the Northern Grinders last November when NT had them on sale. I received a $20 off coupon in the mail glued inside of a sale flyer they mailed to me. Total cost was $89.00. When you get the grinder it is unassembled and in a cardboard box.
> 
> The directions that come with the unit are worthless, so don't depend on them for anything. Simply schedule a couple of hours time to assemble, to clean up the castings with a grinder and to build a good mount. I took one of the AS members advice and picked up a pack of the aluminum zip ties and used one to shim the pivoting chain guide base. The zip ties are sold at Lowes in the electrical section.
> 
> The NT sharpener comes with three different thicknesses of sharpening stones and one almost worthless dressing stone. If you are planning on using the machine to dress your rakes you will need to change the wheel out to the largest wheel after you grind your cutters. This only takes a minute or two. to the thicker Most posters here recommend to simply thrown the included grinder wheels away and replace them with Oregon which are the same size. You can get them from most sponsor vendors on this site or Amazon.
> 
> I have a friend who purchased 3 or these units and has them set up side by side. One for left, one for right and one rakes. This eliminates the need to spend the extra few minutes to recalibrate the pawl when switching between right and left cutters. Not to saw anything about changing the grinder wheel to dress the drags.
> 
> Check out the links to a couple of pictures on mine. I copied the design of one of the AS members. The oak mount allows me to secure in in a bench vise in my shop, or in a vise I have mounted in my enclosed trailer (I have a generator), or ratchet strapped to a tree or a post while in the field. This may seem odd but I am a disaster responder and many times I am deployed for weeks or months at a time. Chain loops are nearly impossible to get after a storm in an affected area and many times we use these grinders to sharpen 20 or 30 loops each evening.
> 
> This is not the best grinder on the market by any stretch, but for less than $100 you can't go wrong.
> 
> View attachment 225998
> 
> 
> View attachment 225999



I had thought earlier about posting on this thread again and forgot about it. I had to buy another wheel for mine tonight and did so at the new NT that has just been built in my town in the past year. 4th wheel I have had to buy (I have used this grinder a lot). I have done absolutely nothing to this grinder and it has been a dandy one for me. I do disaster relief too and carried this grinder with me to Alabama to work there after the storms came through last Spring. Mine saw daily use because as you have stated, it's nearly impossible to buy parts, chains or saws in a storm devastated area. 

We spent the first month camped out as the hotels were full of locals who had either lost homes or had no power. I have mine mounted on a 2x10 and would often clamp it to a saw horse, truck tool box or whatever with two C clamps to secure it and grind. And many times on the job at the customer's home when I could find power. I eventually set up a little shop in a decent sized storage unit where I could set it up semi permanently and grind/work on saws and store gear. 

This little unit was a life saver for me in the field where I was having to manage a huge work load. I worked the first 21 days straight through without a break, grinding chains on a daily basis. Cutting in storm effected areas is really tough on your chains because you are often cutting trees out of structures where there is lots of debris, metal, nails. One of my first jobs was removing a couple of trees from a house and metal out building with a crane where 2 trees had gone through both. I had to cut right into the metal building to saw the 30" logs small enough to get them out of there, being as careful as I could but you are always going to hit something in circumstances like that. 

This little grinder has been worth it's weight in gold to me. I just tighten everything up on it periodically and grind away. I'm sure the mods would make it so much better but this thing will work with loose tolerances like an AK 47. I had no problems learning how to use it and keeping tight specs on my chains. Tight enough for me anyway. I am not trying to shape a chain like a jeweler, I'm just trying to make it cut. I have learned to get my chains dam near perfect with this grinder without having to do any mods to it and no previous grinding experience. If I had worked with a better grinder previously, I might know what i am missing but for me this grinder has worked flawlessly and has been every bit as important to my money making operation as my saws.


----------



## coloradotrout

Tree MD - I cannot hold a candle to what you do, but in my case adding the vice shim was a major improvement. I could not get equal grinds on both sides unless I fiddled with the stop when I switched. It's an easy fix, about 30 mins if you have a tin snips, some shim material of choice (I found 6" snap together hvac pipe was about the right thickness -- it was also sitting over in the corner of the shop). Cut a strip about 3/16" to 1/4" wide and long enough to make it around the vice where the vice swivels in the base. Unscrew the bottom knob, let the spring and washer fall off, and then remove the top 2 parts of he vice. Keep track of those 2 small ball bearings between the swivel part and the left to right part. You'll see that the vice has some side to side play in the base - unless maybe you got lucky. I could slide the vice side to side close to 1/16", which translates into that much cutter length difference if you don't manually compensate. Back on page 13 of this thread are photos. Again, I'm just a homeowner with cedars, hedge, etc growing in places I don't want and a bit of limbing and felling. I probably should just spend $7 on shop sharpening -- it's going to take me awhile to recoup my 135 cost, but the hassle of remembering to take the chain with me or making a special trip helps to offset. I've only put about 3 gallons of gas through my saw, and after a few more fence clearing projects, the effort is really going to drop off.


----------



## tree md

Yes, I have to fiddle with the stop to get it to grind equally on both sides as well. I am all about spending a little time to save a lot when I can. I am sure the mod will help tremendously and plan to do so when I get around to it. But first there is stump grinder teeth to be replaced, welding to do on my stumper and log trailer, I need to adjust the idle on my 260, estimates to run this morning and afternoon... You get what I mean. My only reason for posting what I did was to tell what I have been able to do with this grinder.

I will get around to doing the mods as I am certain the guys on this thread know what they are talking about. I bought this grinder because the shop I was taking my chains to went up to $10 a chain to sharpen and the kid they had sharpening burned up a 60 dollar chain the last time I took it there.. I have 8 chainsaws and at least three spare chains for each. I made my money back on this grinder the first time I ground chains.

I know guys who grind perfect chains and a couple who even use a loupe when grinding like a jeweler. Very nice chains and perfect specs. I know guys who can tear down a saw and rebuild it in no time and answer any question or do anything you need to have done to a saw. I am not that guy. I'm just the guy who makes the chips. 

Thanks for the info.


----------



## randyize

*ok grinder*



computeruser said:


> On super sale. Look Here! Looks like it might be the Tecomec 136/Oregon 511A unit, in which case $100 is a freakin' steal.



I purchased one of these grinders a almost a year ago. I got it home and tried it out and, after a couple of modifications, I find that it does a nice job. For mods, I reworked the spring so that the grinder head doesn't have to travel as far between it's resting/grinding positions, I made a new pawl for indexing the chain which is about a half inch longer than the one that comes with the grinder, and I rewelded the handle onto the other side of the cam lobe because I found rotating something counterclockwise to tighten to be ass backwards and with the new setup, it just seems a lot more ergonomical for me. One of my wheels was also broke when I unpacked it from the box and the store was nice enough to replace it. I have sharpened a couple hundred chains with it so far and don't have any complaints given the cost of the unit.


----------



## coloradotrout

treemd - I hear ya. I was just not satisfied, mostly given the rave reviews on the NT site.


----------



## Philbert

coloradotrout said:


> I found 6" snap together hvac pipe was about the right thickness -- it's going to take me awhile to recoup my 135 cost, but the hassle of remembering to take the chain with me or making a special trip helps to offset.





tree md said:


> I made my money back on this grinder the first time I ground chains.



From what I hear, the quality of the 'knock-off' grinders varies quite a bit. So the size and amount of shimming, grinding/smoothing, etc. will vary. Some guys apparently got bent shafts, which no amount of shimming will fix. Other guys found them to work right out of the box.

I still had to do some smoothing of the vise castings on my Oregon 511A to get it to work as smoothly as I wanted, and the degree indicators are never perfect (even after I shifted the moveable ones). So each grinder needs to be 'calibrated'; mounting a new chain and matching the factory angles helps to check the markings on your grinder after centering the vise.

Recouping the cost is not just from the $7 or so that you save with each sharpening, it is also from your ability to 'kiss' the cutters, removing as little metal as necessary each time, and getting a lot more life out of the chain, compared to the amount some shops remove. It is also from your ability to turn a chain around in a short time, and save a couple of trips to the hardware store or saw shop. 

You gain the ability to scrounge and salvage old chains, custom grind your chains to specific angles if you are picky, and to collect favors from friends who don't have a grinder. After all that, you still have the resale value for it on CraigsList as 'equity'.

Philbert


----------



## coloradotrout

Philbert said:


> Recouping the cost is not just from the $7 or so that you save with each sharpening, it is also from your ability to 'kiss' the cutters, removing as little metal as necessary each time, and getting a lot more life out of the chain, compared to the amount some shops remove. It is also from your ability to turn a chain around in a short time, and save a couple of trips to the hardware store or saw shop.
> 
> You gain the ability to scrounge and salvage old chains, custom grind your chains to specific angles if you are picky, and to collect favors from friends who don't have a grinder. After all that, you still have the resale value for it on CraigsList as 'equity'.
> Philbert



Exactly.


----------



## coloradotrout

*NT Grinder Mods Summary*

View attachment 226404


----------



## 7oaks

coloradotrout said:


> View attachment 226404



Nice


----------



## coloradotrout

7oaks said:


> Nice



If someone knows how to make this show w/o clicking the attachment, let me know. Others get pictures to show inline, but I have not figured that out yet.


----------



## 7oaks

coloradotrout said:


> If someone knows how to make this show w/o clicking the attachment, let me know. Others get pictures to show inline, but I have not figured that out yet.



Here it is. You are more than half way there once you've gotten this far. Click on the link then copy the ip address then paste it into your message using the screen looking icon at the top of the message bar. 

You will get a screen that prompts you to make a choice. Click on "from URL". Then paste the copied URL into the space. Next MAKE sure you DESELECT (uncheck) the option to "retrieve remote file and referendce locally"








VOILA!

You can also do a search on how to insert pics and several members have given detailed insturtions.


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## coloradotrout

Has anyone come up with a mod to take out the play in the motor arm pivot? At the tip of the wheel there is close to 1/16" of play.


----------



## parrisw

coloradotrout said:


> Has anyone come up with a mod to take out the play in the motor arm pivot? At the tip of the wheel there is close to 1/16" of play.



Easy, bore it out machine some brass bushings and put back together.


----------



## coloradotrout

No metalworking experience here -- but willing to get some.

Ok -- bore it out. I have a drill press - will that work?

"machine brass bushings" -- Ok, that sounds a bit more challenging. Tips?


----------



## parrisw

coloradotrout said:


> No metalworking experience here -- but willing to get some.
> 
> Ok -- bore it out. I have a drill press - will that work?
> 
> "machine brass bushings" -- Ok, that sounds a bit more challenging. Tips?



Well, I haven't done anything to the pivot on my machine. But if its worn, you'd have to bore out where the pivot pin is to accept a bushing to fit the pivot pin. I would bore it out with a Ream, then machine bushings on my lathe. Yes you could use a drill press to bore it out with a ream or just a drill.


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## racer1970

add on mod.... to keep the filing metal dust too a min I put an old speaker magnet behind the chain area to catch all the dust works well for keeping everything clean, sure it should work for other grinders as well.


----------



## coloradotrout

parrisw said:


> .. if its worn, you'd have to bore out where the pivot pin is to accept a bushing to fit the pivot pin. I would bore it out with a Ream, then machine bushings on my lathe. Yes you could use a drill press to bore it out with a ream or just a drill.



Without the right tools it seems like I could make the problem worse. Because that pin is friction fit, not sure there is even a way to build up the pin to fit a bit more snug through the motor assembly.


----------



## Philbert

racer1970 said:


> add on mod.... to keep the filing metal dust too a min I put an old speaker magnet behind the chain area to catch all the dust works well for keeping everything clean, sure it should work for other grinders as well.



Something like this?

(Photo from treemonkey's shop in Wisconsin)

Philbert


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## racer1970

Philbert said:


> Something like this?
> 
> (Photo from treemonkey's shop in Wisconsin)
> 
> Philbert




Yes it does work great, and WoW that thing has more hair than I do...lol


----------



## Philbert

racer1970 said:


> Yes it does work great, and WoW that thing has more hair than I do...lol



Yeah, just because it *collects* the filings, it doesn't mean that you can't* empty* it now and then!

Philbert


----------



## racer1970

Philbert said:


> Yeah, just because it *collects* the filings, it doesn't mean that you can't* empty* it now and then!
> 
> Philbert



it is kinda fun to watch it grow... kinda like a gray chia pet... lol


----------



## beelsr

Pulling the grinder out from under the workbench after a couple years hiatus and a quick check of the thread to see what's new.

Using page #s for references is not the best way to do it; this is because you can have different numbers of posts per page. For example, the default is 15 posts per page but I use 100. If you have a fast internet connection and a hatred of clicking the mouse, you might want to bump up the posts per page. It's in the settings (top-right of every page when you're logged in; then, near the bottom; don't forget to click save if you change it). Anyways...

I added post #s to the excellent summary of mods table. Plus added some mods that aren't in the table. A couple mods have multiple posts discussing them, as noted.

- Post 615 also talks about sharpie marking your own angles (or the correct angles) on the scale. Obvious, but worth pointing out because on mine, the scale was (way) off as well.
- Post 697 also talks about adding flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.
- Post 692 talks about using hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).
- Posts 728 and 741 are another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version. :msp_tongue: I can say that Harbor Freight cable ties work just as well.
- Post 790 shows using a magnet to catch grinding dust. Useful.
- Also, post #1 in the Northern Hyd Grinder, making it work (pics) thread is another good overview of the swivel base and chain stop mods.

Another mod seen in other threads is using a small bungee to limit the motor arm's upward travel. This might be better than the bolt stop method since it will put less stress on the motor arm pivot because it's a softer stop method. I also experimented with pieces of foam and rubber in the hinge but never came up with anything satisfactory.


----------



## gemniii

Good timing with this thread, by coincidence I just fired mine up for "spring sharpening". I've got about 20 chains and as I've wrote my routine is sharpen (touch up) several times by hand, then use my Granberg File-N-Joint, repeat three hand filings, Granberg File-N-Joint, then again, then take them to the grinder.

Seems every year less is getting ground on the grinder, my hand filing is improving.

Thanks for the matrix on tips!


----------



## Sagetown

I need to add some more note to the notes I've already got. Great bunch of INFO here.


----------



## [email protected]

*My problem is getting it to hold the 10 degree tilt.*



justlearning said:


> I just wanted to revive the question of availability of washers/ shims for the NT Grinder.
> Thanks!



My problem is getting it to hold the 10 degree tilt. Would the shim kit help? Were you able to find the shim kit?


----------



## coloradotrout

Please scroll down.. 
Summary of Mods provided by AS Members. The "Link" in the far right hand column will take you to the post.
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
<tr><td>vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>vice washer - maybe if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>put a light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this??</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>

</table>


----------



## Philbert

coloradotrout said:


> If there is a way to link to a particular post, I can make another update.



This is _EXTREMELY_ helpful! Thank you on behalf of all the AS members and browsers who will benefit.

As far as links, if you navigate to the correct page, copy the http:// . . . . stuff at the top of the page, and paste it after or below your 'description', it will post as a link to that specific page, although, not that specific post.

Philbert


----------



## coloradotrout

Philbert said:


> This is _EXTREMELY_ helpful! Thank you on behalf of all the AS members and browsers who will benefit.
> 
> As far as links, if you navigate to the correct page, copy the http:// . . . . stuff at the top of the page, and paste it after or below your 'description', it will post as a link to that specific page, although, not that specific post.
> 
> Philbert



Thank you -- I found the info so valuable, I had to do what little I could. I was using the grinder yesterday -- and still fiddling with getting the chain in the center, etc. There is still a learning curve once all the "tweaks" are done, but it's vastly improved vs what I got out of the box. I need to add the spring to take the play out of the chain stop -- and I need to adjust the vise to center the chain more accurately. The motor-to-house pivot has some slop, and so in my experience I just need to ease down on the motor when grinding and not apply excessive force, or it's going to move the wheel quite a bit. You can see that if you just watch a still wheel and push left or right a bit. It moves at least 1/16" or more.


----------



## beelsr

coloradotrout said:


> I hope the links work correctly, but they seem to use the page numbers and as someone else noted, members can set the number of posts per page in their profile. If the profile is default -- it should take you right to the page in a new window. If you have increased or decreased the number of posts you see - my link may be off.



Great job!

The easiest way to get the url for the post is to right-click | copy on the post # in the top right of the header of the post (date's on the left, post # all the way over on the right). that will load the thread at the specific post. For example, post #187 is http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-2.htm#post555793

the post #is not specific to the thread so there's no easy way to "just add x to get to the #+x post".


----------



## coloradotrout

Done.. enjoy.. 



beelsr said:


> Great job!
> 
> The easiest way to get the url for the post is to right-click | copy on the post # in the top right of the header of the post (date's on the left, post # all the way over on the right). that will load the thread at the specific post. For example, post #187 is http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-2.htm#post555793
> 
> the post #is not specific to the thread so there's no easy way to "just add x to get to the #+x post".


----------



## 7oaks

Great job. Tried to rep ya but told I need to spread it around. I'm sure a lot of our buddies will give some. Thanks!


----------



## coloradotrout

Summary of Modifications by AS Members
<table>
<tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
<tr><td>vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>vice washer - maybe if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>put a light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this??</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>My 2 cents on firming up the chain stop</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844-post4236301.htm#post4236301" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
</table>


----------



## coloradotrout

Hmm.. sometimes the links work, sometimes not.
If not -- try just hitting 'enter' or reload the web page on the new tab/window.


----------



## Philbert

coloradotrout said:


> Hmm.. sometimes the links work, sometimes not. If not -- try just hitting 'enter' or reload the web page on the new tab/window.



??? So, ya sayin' that even the _LINKS_ need a little shimming to work right???

Philbert


----------



## deezlfan

Here's an update regarding my grinder. When I first got my grinder, I found these nubs inside each rail. They touch each other and I assume the idea is that the rails pivot on the nubs and this will allow the rails to close on all thickness' of chain. Really inconsistant and very hard to get the rails to close properly and hold each tooth in the same position. As you can see, I tried filing them flat, but did not see any improvement. Instead I turned one rail around, filed down the nub slightly and used the through bolts each hold a thin washer. I only grind .050 gage chain so I tightened the gap so it is very snug on the drive links.












Next, a Harbor Freight spring was installed on the chain stop, The bottom hooked over the pivot spring leg on the bottom and the top installed in the existing hole in the stop. The circular spring was also changed with a spring from the same assortment box. 






I found I needed to slightly widen the end of the rails to make it easier to slide the chain. This was done by adding a slightly thicker washer on the last bolt.






Next came the rail tightener pivot. This thing flopped around until I removed the snap ring and handle, followed by the pivot itself. Then locktite was added to the threads and the stud tightened with a deep well socket. then I reinstalled the handle and snap ring. 






I am also considering drilling holes in the swivel plate and base at 30 degrees. The marking on my grinder are fairly accurate but my eyesight challanges me every time I have to switch sides. A set of holes I could drop a pin in would make that much quicker and easier. I have to look and see if I can find a good location for that.


----------



## coloradotrout

Modifications Summary -- Links take you to posts.

(If the link does not take you right to the post, trying pressing enter or reloading the page that is in the new tab/window).

<table borders="1"><tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
<tr><td>Vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Vice washer - if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Take some play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin, some suggest to just use a bungee type cord.</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this?</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>My experience firming up the chain stop</td><td></td><td>810</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-21.htm#post4242422" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Guide rail mods</td><td></td><td>807</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-21.htm#post4241125" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
</table>


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## deezlfan

Ideally, I would make a narrower chain stop so it did not have to be moved at all when changing sides. 

What usually happens is that I think up a modification to make after I finish a batch of chains, then forget about it 'til I need the grinder again. By then I don't have time to mess with it......


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## coloradotrout

I swiped these photos from other posts to show what I did. The mods have not been done in these photos. This is the "before" picture.

1) I moved the chainstop assembly just a bit to the right so that the "small flipper" would ride on the shaft and not the threads. The thumbscrew can still adjust it side to side to that it backs up the tooth, but now the flipper stays on the solid shaft.
View attachment 287227


2) I filed down the bushing (not shown -- it's behind that bolt -- the "larger flipper" rides on it ) flush with the flipper, and then put on a larger washer to give more side support to the "large flipper". This is not a fix, but more of a hack work-around. If you file down the bushing too much, you may bind the flipper, so go easy. Mine is snug -- which is ok with me, as I would typically "sneak up" on the amount of grind I want on the tooth. So I'm using the take-off thumbscrew to push that stop closer to the tooth. 
View attachment 287231


My apologies for my lousy mechanical terminology. How do I make these images larger?


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## 7oaks

coloradotrout said:


> Now I've not only borrowed your pic, I have edited it!
> 
> Like this photo shows, my small "flipper" (that the tooth rests on) was pivoting half on the shaft (left side) and half on the threads (right side). I loosened the nut on the far left, moved the entire assembly a bit to the right, and now the flipped only pivots on the shaft. There is enough thumbscrew threads to move it in/out as needed, but still keep it off the threads.
> 
> View attachment 287227



Great use of photography to explain what is meant. Thanks.


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## coloradotrout

7oaks said:


> Great use of photography to explain what is meant. Thanks.



Thanks, but I did clip the photos from some other -- and mark them up. Too lazy to get my own camera.


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## deezlfan

It's all good. It's obvious where the photo is from and you used it to bring more to the thread. Not like you stole it for profit or tried to hide it's origin.


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## mirekb

Am I the only 1 who can't view the pictures in #187- what am I doing everything wrong?


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## w8ye

RaisedByWolves said:


> Yep the plastic bands are the key.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine also had a sticker that said "Re packaged" on it and everything was intact and in good order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In regards to stihlatits concern about the differing tooth length Ive got a fix for that, but I had a big day today, Ill post it later on, its a fairly simple fix.
> 
> 
> 
> My local shops oregon has the same problem, but an operator that is skilled can lessen the effect.
> 
> 
> Im not allways that skilled......



There are no pictures in post #185


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## mirekb

w8ye said:


> There are no pictures in post #185



You're right I meant post 187 or any post for what matters -I'm new here is there something that I have to turn on to see pictures ?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free


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## w8ye

Sometime since 2006, the picture database has been moved and the pointers in post 187 no longer point to the correct place.


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## w8ye

If you are truly interested changing your NT grinder, these descriptions can easily be found on your personal grinder.

As far as changing the direction (which I feel is unnecessary) there are several articles on reversing the Oregon grinder - the technique is the same

EXCEPT

The NT grinder only has three wires coming out of the motor. Two of the wires are fastened together inside the grinder motor housing. You have to find this junction and bring the two wires out separately. The two different windings can be determined with a ohm meter.

Unless you are a industrial motor electrician, this task is not for you.

Reversing these motors entails reversing the neutral and hot wires on the start circuit while keeping the run winding the same.


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## w8ye

On the Oregon motor, the green and black wires go to the run winding while the red and blue wires go to the start winding.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/181620.htm


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## mirekb

w8ye said:


> If you are truly interested changing your NT grinder, these descriptions can easily be found on your personal grinder.
> 
> As far as changing the direction (which I feel is unnecessary) there are several articles on reversing the Oregon grinder - the technique is the same



where is the personal grinder? is it a separate thread or website - i googled "personal grinder" and no luck 
please help with re-direction (if there is a different spot i should be looking at) 
thanks in advance
as per changing a spin direction - that is an icing on the cake 
i'm looking for some pictures and/or videos in addition to description of mods.


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## w8ye

"Personal Grinder" was referring to the grinder that you own.

Here is a parts breakdown of a Tecomec FL-136 Italian grinder that is similar to the Northern Tools grinder from which the NT grinder is a Chinese copy.

http://sharpchain.com/shop/manuals/parts_FL136.pdf

Here is the owner's manual for the Tecomec FL136 (Jolly) grinder that is much like the Northern Tools grinder

http://sharpchain.com/shop/manuals/operator_FL136jolly.pdf

The Northern Tools grinder is a reasonable grinder for the home owner that has some mechanical machinery experience. It is just rough around the edges.


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## whitedogone

Here's my contribution:


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## jar944

More to come, but here is a teaser.


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## Philbert

Took out the 'squish' or just the base gasket . . .?

Philbert


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## jar944

Philbert said:


> Took out the 'squish' or just the base gasket . . .?
> 
> Philbert



The pic was from cleaning up the casting for the chain vise swivel. I still need to bore the base plate and turn a bushing for them. 

I forgot to take any pics but I also machined new and have since installed bushings for the head pivot. There was some sloppy machining in the casting. The ID of bored holes for the bushings were .010" different. 

I'm going to replace the clamping rails as well with some hardened steel the original are slightly bent and have way to much flex (IMHO)

The other thing i noticed was that there is a surprising amount of flex in the castings themselves, or at least more than I expected.


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## coloradotrout

coloradotrout said:


> Modifications Summary -- Links take you to posts.
> 
> (If the link does not take you right to the post, trying pressing enter or reloading the page that is in the new tab/window).
> 
> <table borders="1"><tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
> <tr><td>Vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Vice washer - if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>File down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>File down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Take some play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>File down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin, some suggest to just use a bungee type cord.</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>File down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this?</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>My experience firming up the chain stop</td><td></td><td>810</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-21.htm#post4242422" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> <tr><td>Guide rail mods</td><td></td><td>807</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-21.htm#post4241125" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
> </table>




Anyone know how I clean this up? HTML does not seem to display any more? Been years since I posted this.


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## coloradotrout

I guess it's been 2 years since I was here. My old HTML table is not displaying anymore :-( I ran across a video that has made a huge improvement. Here is one video.
 

This works brilliant on my Northern Tool grinder. I had to use a corded electric drill to spin the grinder up fast enough to get it to spin in the opposite direction when I pressed the power ON button. 

So 3 mods or usage procedures:

Use a dial caliper to get the cutter on both sides nearly equal size. When you rotate the chain around from 30 degrees right to 30 degrees left that cutter stop "flipper" just is not exact. Reset that flipper with a dial caliper to get you closer so the cutters are nearly equal in length. I shoot for .010 or so. I have some play in my grinder arm pivot so that's about as good as I can get.

Spin the grinder with a corded drill to spin the wheel in the opposite direction such that you are cutting into the cutting edge of the tooth (see video). The counter clockwise direction of the grinder is fine for the cutter when you have the chain rotated 30 degrees counter clockwise (2 o'clock and 8 o'clock position) But when you rotate the chain 30 degrees clockwise (4 o'clock and 10 o'clock), now the grinder will cut away from the edge of the tooth. That leaves a burr. Spin the grinder up with an electric drill and you now are cutting both cutters in the same way. 

File off the burr on the top of the cutter. I just use a file and make 1-2 light passes. I see in this person's video he commented he has changed to 55 degrees on the motor tilt from 60 degrees also.


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## Philbert

Got this one off of local Craig'sList today, pretty cheap, so now I am '_in the club_'. It's a clone, made in China, but I don't see any brand on the machine or in the owner's manual. I assume that there are differences between the different manufacturers of these, and that changes have been made over time. This one reportedly sat for many years.




Partially disassembled it, cleaned it, made a few minor repairs. Have to make a base for it and try it out!




Philbert


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## Philbert

Disassembled my new-to-me grinder; cleaned and inspected it; replaced a bent bolt; repaired a damaged knob; added some washers; replaced the hex screw that holds the center guard in place with a wing nut (so that I will actually use it); added paper wheel blotters (things on the sides) to the grinding wheels; added some foil tape to reduce grinding dust build up; joined the 2 hex keys so that they are less likely to lose them; made a wood block to reinforce the base (had a small crack); made a wood base for mounting; . . . Such a deal! In fairness, I would futz with a new grinder as well.




Quality differences between this on and my Oregon models becomes more apparent as I work on it. Also, don't know where I would go for parts, aside from hardware store bolts, or things that are identical to the Oregon / Tecomec models.

Noticed a few interesting design differences - not sure if a lot of these clone grinders have them, or how much they vary. First is a clip on the back (blue arrow) that keeps the grinder head from fully raising. In the 511A thread, there were a lot of comments on ways to limit this movement for efficiency.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/




The vise on this model only rotated to approximately 30° Left and Right. My other grinders allow the vise to rotate 360°. Some people might want to grind at 35. Full rotation is nice for storage (moves locking handle out of the way). Noticed these 2 , raised posts under the vise base, and 5 detent positions (ball bearing and spring) that I do not recall seeing on other grinders. Anyone else? Thinking of cutting these posts off with a Dremel wheel to get the full rotation. Hope that the vise is held secure with the hand wheel!



Philbert


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## old guy

I like that clip on the back of my yellow one to keep it from raising so high.


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## Philbert

old guy said:


> I like that clip on the back of my yellow one to keep it from raising so high.


I have boot lace and a cord lock on my Oregon grinder to keep the head from rising too far!

Philbert


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## old guy

Philbert said:


> I have boot lace and a cord lock on my Oregon grinder to keep the head from rising too far!
> 
> Philbert


Yeah, I put cables on both of mine


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## Philbert

Introduced those little tabs (yellow arrows) to Mr. Dremel (and removed the ball bearing and spring); now the vise rotates freely 360°. The chain positioning dog is pretty bent up; will probably try to straighten it or make a new one, along with a better spring.

Philbert


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## heimannm

Does anyone have a "no longer working" grinder with a good spring in it? The spring in my no-name unit broke this week.




Mark


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## Philbert

Pics of the broken spring? Width, diameter (I.D., O.D., etc. )?
They might not all be the same!

Philbert


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## heimannm

.1562" wire diameter, 6.2 coils, .870" O.D. .540" I.D., RH wound







Mark


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## Urbicide

heimannm said:


> Does anyone have a "no longer working" grinder with a good spring in it? The spring in my no-name unit broke this week.
> 
> View attachment 935220
> 
> 
> Mark


Mark, if you can 't locate a suitable donor, you might check out Oregon's bench grinder replacement parts listings. They have several different part #'s showing for their various models. Hard to tell by looking at the tiny line drawings for sure, but the replacement spring for the 511A grinder looks promising. Part #35589 Spring, Arm Return. My grinders are all several states away from me in storage. Northern Tool may have a replacement spring for the generic grinder that this thread started over a hundred years ago, but that is just a wag on my part.


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## heimannm

Thanks for the reply.

I posted a similar message in a couple of Philbert's grinder threads and someone already pointed me at a suitable replacement. I have a spring on order now. 


Mark


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