# Carbide teeth grinding questions



## AAASTUMPSERVICE

Can anyone tell me what setup works for you when it comes to sharpening carbide stump grinder teeth? I don't mind spending a few extra $$$ to get setup to sharpen my own teeth, I think it will save money down the road. 

What type grinder to use? 

What diamond wheel works best?


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## Eq Broker

*Carbide Re-sharpening*

What type of teeth do you have?

Eq Broker


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## AAASTUMPSERVICE

I have carlton (diamond style) teeth.


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## Eq Broker

*Carbide Re-sharpening*

I'm confused. Do you have Sandvik or a 1/2" x 1/2" square shanked tooth?


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## Eq Broker

*Carbide Re-sharpening*

Wether it's Sandvik or square shanked tooth you'll need a hand grinder with about a 3 1/2" wheel. I prefer the diamond wheel rather than a green wheel. The diamond wheel will last a lot longer than a green wheel. It will most probably be easier to re-sharpen them while they're on the grinder.


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## ShermanC

*Precautions to take to sharpen tungsten carbide teeth*



Eq Broker said:


> Wether it's Sandvik or square shanked tooth you'll need a hand grinder with about a 3 1/2" wheel. I prefer the diamond wheel rather than a green wheel. The diamond wheel will last a lot longer than a green wheel. It will most probably be easier to re-sharpen them while they're on the grinder.


With 300 hours of stump grinding experience since 2003 and currently owning two walk-behind stump grinders, I decided not to try to sharpen teeth. My in-depth study Tok several months and showed that the cutting angle of worn teeth resharpened has less cutting effect. I also learned that the risk of exposure to carcinogens from the fine dust are not worth the cost saved and the equipment cost. One of my stump grinders uses green teeth in the #500 size and the teeth get three rotations, so the use cost is spread thin by making full utilization of the cutting surfaces. I am interested to learn how other folks like the Sanvik teeth and the Vermeer Super teeth. The web site for Leonardi Manufacturing shows some interesting designs in cutter effectiveness. That's my two cents worth.


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## BigWill1985

I just picked up a set of Greenteeth LoPros for our stump grinder... Got the entire set from Bailey's for under $400 shipped. Already have a fairly large job (for us) that we are finishing up, with 6 stumps to grind out (1-40" Oak, 1-30" Pecan, 1-24" Pecan, 1-18" Hickory, and 1- 18" Cedar). It's just my partner and I running our grinder, so I will let you guys know how well they perform. 

~Will Courtier~


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## gotstumps

I put green teeth on my rayco 
1625super jr. Work great like the fact that they have three cutting surfaces and easy to change in the field


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## a_lopa

A good diamond coated bench grinder wheel for the carbide,gets them better than new.

need a decent benchgrinder and steel grinding wheel to get the holder in right shape BEFORE grinding the carbide.


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## AAASTUMPSERVICE

a_lopa said:


> A good diamond coated bench grinder wheel for the carbide,gets them better than new.
> 
> need a decent benchgrinder and steel grinding wheel to get the holder in right shape BEFORE grinding the carbide.



Where did you buy a diamond wheel for your bench grinder? How much was it?


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## ShermanC

AAASTUMPSERVICE said:


> Where did you buy a diamond wheel for your bench grinder? How much was it?


Your question came to me but I am not the poster about a bench grinder. sorry. Try the other writer. Good luck!


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## lawmart

I am with the same thought as "treetopguy" i have been grinding stumps with my own grinder for 12 years now and never sharpened teeth. i allways found it easyer just to put on new teeth. Is the cost difference worth the time saved by just putting on new teeth. I have had veermer 206 and rayco 1625 with greenteeth, and carlton 4012 with a sandvick wheel, and now vermeer 652 with asandvick wheel. my experence by the time i notice that the tooth is damaged or dull there is not much left or worth sharpeing. Can someone post me a pic of what there dull teeth look like and what they look like when there done sharpeng it or a vid of them sharp would be even better. I just got 50 or so new teeth for my stumper wheel wich i will be putting on this weekend. May be i can save myself some time next time.

- i grind about 28 000 to 20 000 inches a year and replace my front lead teeth 3-4 times a season we only have a 9 month season with 490hrs on my machine that is 1.5 yrs old.
- just repacing my side teeth for the frist time i think there is about 25 of them.

any help or questions would be great

lawmart (sorry for spelling spell check is disabled on this computer)


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## AAASTUMPSERVICE

lawmart said:


> I am with the same thought as "treetopguy" i have been grinding stumps with my own grinder for 12 years now and never sharpened teeth. i allways found it easyer just to put on new teeth. Is the cost difference worth the time saved by just putting on new teeth. I have had veermer 206 and rayco 1625 with greenteeth, and carlton 4012 with a sandvick wheel, and now vermeer 652 with asandvick wheel. my experence by the time i notice that the tooth is damaged or dull there is not much left or worth sharpeing. Can someone post me a pic of what there dull teeth look like and what they look like when there done sharpeng it or a vid of them sharp would be even better. I just got 50 or so new teeth for my stumper wheel wich i will be putting on this weekend. May be i can save myself some time next time.
> 
> - i grind about 28 000 to 20 000 inches a year and replace my front lead teeth 3-4 times a season we only have a 9 month season with 490hrs on my machine that is 1.5 yrs old.
> - just repacing my side teeth for the frist time i think there is about 25 of them.
> 
> any help or questions would be great
> 
> lawmart (sorry for spelling spell check is disabled on this computer)





Ya I now know its not even worth sharpening teeth or retipping, its easiest and faster to have new teeth to put in. I just sent out a flat rate box full of teeth (30-40) to get retipped. The post office lost my package!!! I guess all those teeth are junk but I was hoping to have them retipped for half the cost of new but since they are Mia I'll just buy new from here on out.


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## lawmart

what is the cost for retipping stump teeth ???

lawmart


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## AAASTUMPSERVICE

lawmart said:


> what is the cost for retipping stump teeth ???
> 
> lawmart



Sandvik teeth are roughly $6-$7 a tooth


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## ENGELSEN

*teeth*

I use a green grinding wheel. And a 4 1/2 inch diamond angle grinder. I have a can-du machine, and those teeth will not go on any other machine. If I didn't sharpen my own it would not be very cost effective. I use a cup maske and face shield for protection .


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## bombdude

I run a 352 with greenteeth, and sharpen my own. Bought the diamond wheel from green mtg. $175.

I run 3 sets, and after turning & rotating, I resharpen. Works great for me, & I always keep sharp teeth on the machine. I've even taught my daughter how to do the sharpening & I pay her $1 per tooth. I set up a shop vac to catch the grindings as they leave the wheel. I've been doing it this way for about a year now, & I find that I'm buying way fewer teeth. So far I'm happy with it.


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## fubar2

bombdude said:


> I run a 352 with greenteeth, and sharpen my own. Bought the diamond wheel from green mtg. $175.
> 
> I run 3 sets, and after turning & rotating, I resharpen. Works great for me, & I always keep sharp teeth on the machine. I've even taught my daughter how to do the sharpening & I pay her $1 per tooth. I set up a shop vac to catch the grindings as they leave the wheel. I've been doing it this way for about a year now, & I find that I'm buying way fewer teeth. So far I'm happy with it.



Save them grindings and mix them in with the concrete the next time you pour steps, they will wear forever. I worked in a factory that mixed carbide chips with theirs and they looked like new after my tired arse and everybody else walked up and down them for years. Sparkled also when the light caught them, kinda pretty.


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## bombdude

Cool idea, thanks fubar. Just so happens I have a brick patio project in the near future. I'll def put the carbide to use.


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## fubar2

bombdude said:


> Cool idea, thanks fubar. Just so happens I have a brick patio project in the near future. I'll def put the carbide to use.



Yer welcome. I don't know how well it will work with grinding dust, sure won't hurt though. Amish braze chips to the front of buggy horses shoes and wear out fewer shoes. Thats why in Amish country the right lane in the road has a big dip in the middle of it going up hills.


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## 2treeornot2tree

This is the sharpening setup i have for sharpening my greenteeth.


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## Btatar

*Send them out*

I ship my used teeth to Jeffs sharpening. Three bucks for my 900 series and I don't have to deal with them. The used ones don't last as long but for a dollar per cutting surface I don't mind.


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## Topbuilder

lawmart said:


> I am with the same thought as "treetopguy" i have been grinding stumps with my own grinder for 12 years now and never sharpened teeth. i allways found it easyer just to put on new teeth. Is the cost difference worth the time saved by just putting on new teeth. I have had veermer 206 and rayco 1625 with greenteeth, and carlton 4012 with a sandvick wheel, and now vermeer 652 with asandvick wheel. my experence by the time i notice that the tooth is damaged or dull there is not much left or worth sharpeing. Can someone post me a pic of what there dull teeth look like and what they look like when there done sharpeng it or a vid of them sharp would be even better. I just got 50 or so new teeth for my stumper wheel wich i will be putting on this weekend. May be i can save myself some time next time.
> 
> - i grind about 28 000 to 20 000 inches a year and replace my front lead teeth 3-4 times a season we only have a 9 month season with 490hrs on my machine that is 1.5 yrs old.
> - just repacing my side teeth for the frist time i think there is about 25 of them.
> 
> any help or questions would be great
> 
> lawmart (sorry for spelling spell check is disabled on this computer)



Hi Y'all. My first post. I have been a "lurker" for several months. All my searches keep leading me here so I figured maybe this was the place to be! 
That is alot of cutting per sharpening. I do not do nearly as good. I am turning my Greenteeth 1100 reds at about 20 hours and I only get two uses, not the three as advertized. I'm running a RG50 and a Rg1642 every once in a while. I do get longer use out of the side teeth than the fronts but that still makes your tooth life 10 times mine... I do alot of pine, I just find it easier to do them with good edges. Less dusty. I did a job last week that had 75 stumps with an average of 40 inches. I did not finish that job without turning to a virgin edge. 
I sent off my first batch to Jeff's to be sharpened. Hope that works out. Might still have to make my own sparpening rig but would rather spend the time grinding stumps. I am in the process of changing my setup to Low-Pro 900s. I have the old bulkier pockets, they seem to be doing alot of rubbing. I am afraid I'm not going to like the 900s after so many hours behind the 1100s. We will see. Anyhow, Glad to be here, see y'all around!


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## 2treeornot2tree

Topbuilder said:


> Hi Y'all. My first post. I have been a "lurker" for several months. All my searches keep leading me here so I figured maybe this was the place to be!
> That is alot of cutting per sharpening. I do not do nearly as good. I am turning my Greenteeth 1100 reds at about 20 hours and I only get two uses, not the three as advertized. I'm running a RG50 and a Rg1642 every once in a while. I do get longer use out of the side teeth than the fronts but that still makes your tooth life 10 times mine... I do alot of pine, I just find it easier to do them with good edges. Less dusty. I did a job last week that had 75 stumps with an average of 40 inches. I did not finish that job without turning to a virgin edge.
> I sent off my first batch to Jeff's to be sharpened. Hope that works out. Might still have to make my own sparpening rig but would rather spend the time grinding stumps. I am in the process of changing my setup to Low-Pro 900s. I have the old bulkier pockets, they seem to be doing alot of rubbing. I am afraid I'm not going to like the 900s after so many hours behind the 1100s. We will see. Anyhow, Glad to be here, see y'all around!



I run 900 series on my 1625 a sjr grinder. I think your gonna be very disappointed in switching to them. I still have the old pockets, and they are wore pretty good, but still hold the teeth so when they dont, i am gonna get new pockets.


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## Topbuilder

2treeornot2tree said:


> I run 900 series on my 1625 a sjr grinder. I think your gonna be very disappointed in switching to them. I still have the old pockets, and they are wore pretty good, but still hold the teeth so when they dont, i am gonna get new pockets.




I am afraid I will not like it. Every once in a while I trust the "experts" and go against my gut feeling. The outfit where I bought the parts recommended the switch based on customer feedback and factory specs. Less rotating weight... I'm running a 1 1/2" solid wheel, I really don't think a couple pounds will make too much difference. In my mind, if I can wear out cutting surfaces in 20-30 hours w/1100s then what can I expect with 13 to 15% less cutting area? If I hate the set up I will either put it on my RG1642 or sell it on ebay. I have been thinking about changing to the Revolution wheel, just not ready to spend the cash. Next week I have to change out the main pillow block bearings, both sprockets and the poly chain. Fun, Fun.


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## 2treeornot2tree

I would return them before you use them. Nctree put 700 series on his 44hp diesel carton grinder and is braking off the carbides.


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## elmostump

*900's on 1625?*

2treeornot2tree you are running 900's on your 25 hp rayco? I run the 700's on my 1635jr. I would ahve thought the 900's would be to much for mine, but I guess not.........

Thanks


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## 2treeornot2tree

elmostump said:


> 2treeornot2tree you are running 900's on your 25 hp rayco? I run the 700's on my 1635jr. I would ahve thought the 900's would be to much for mine, but I guess not.........
> 
> Thanks



I bought it that way, but i have heard quite a few people running the 900s on there 1625.


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## lawmart

after one week this is why my teeth look like,

View attachment 257255


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## a_lopa

AAASTUMPSERVICE said:


> Where did you buy a diamond wheel for your bench grinder? How much was it?




Heres a pic in Down Under so where i buy i irrelevent,You should bne able to source a diamond wheel easy,I have had this wheen 6 years and paid $300 and had it resurfaced once for $120.View attachment 258329


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## ShermanC

*Grinder teeth pic after one week of use*



lawmart said:


> after one week this is why my teeth look like,
> 
> View attachment 257255


Thanks for your input. It would mean more to most of us following this thread if you stated the use time in hours of use instead of saying "one week" which has 168 hours of time. Other helpful infor for comparison would be specie of tree stumps and the amount of rock content in the soil. 

In the state of Arkansas we have 214 species of trees mostly hardwoods and the soil seems to have rock content of 2:1 in cu. ft., ton or acres...just doggone rocky. It wears teeth down quickly and that explains why many guys have tried to stump for a living here but found the equipment maintenance expense is high. I have offered stump grinding since 2008, have two walk behind grinders and estimate every job before booking it.


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## stump bandit

*looking for diamond wheel for hand held grinder*

Can anyone tell me where to buy a diamond wheel for a hand held grinder? I am grinding sandvik teeth. Thanks


treetopguy2028 said:


> Thanks for your input. It would mean more to most of us following this thread if you stated the use time in hours of use instead of saying "one week" which has 168 hours of time. Other helpful infor for comparison would be specie of tree stumps and the amount of rock content in the soil.
> 
> In the state of Arkansas we have 214 species of trees mostly hardwoods and the soil seems to have rock content of 2:1 in cu. ft., ton or acres...just doggone rocky. It wears teeth down quickly and that explains why many guys have tried to stump for a living here but found the equipment maintenance expense is high. I have offered stump grinding since 2008, have two walk behind grinders and estimate every job before booking it.


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## lawmart

*hrs plz*

well i cant give you the rock content of our soil, never thaught of it that way. The problem i have is thaT one of my contract requries me too grind 24 inches below grade grinding 12-15 inches is now problem at that depth it is mostly sand or clay depending how for you are away from the lake. When you get in that 20-24" area you start to hit Rocks that are 12" plus in diameter and also old stone walls, steel from really old farms etc.. But i would estimate hrs on my machine a week would be 16-20hrs. See i dont operate in hrs it means nothing to me but i operate in inches per week since that is how i get paid. When my guys go out i ask them how many inches the have done and what i expect they have to do in a 10 hr day.You can put on 5 hrs on a machime and just sit in a truck, but if you measure the actual production of the machine then that is where your you will make money. Hrs are just for sale and resale and oil changes. As for treee species these are all municpal trees 95% are hardwoods all though there are quite a varity of tree spp. naturally all the same that you would find in the northern to mid eastern to central US.i think iam in zone 5-6 and you are in zones 7-8 (plant hardiness) as per an exact number thats a bit anal.

Lawmart


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## ironstumper

lawmart said:


> well i cant give you the rock content of our soil, never thaught of it that way. The problem i have is thaT one of my contract requries me too grind 24 inches below grade grinding 12-15 inches is now problem at that depth it is mostly sand or clay depending how for you are away from the lake. When you get in that 20-24" area you start to hit Rocks that are 12" plus in diameter and also old stone walls, steel from really old farms etc.. But i would estimate hrs on my machine a week would be 16-20hrs. See i dont operate in hrs it means nothing to me but i operate in inches per week since that is how i get paid. When my guys go out i ask them how many inches the have done and what i expect they have to do in a 10 hr day.You can put on 5 hrs on a machime and just sit in a truck, but if you measure the actual production of the machine then that is where your you will make money. Hrs are just for sale and resale and oil changes. As for treee species these are all municpal trees 95% are hardwoods all though there are quite a varity of tree spp. naturally all the same that you would find in the northern to mid eastern to central US.i think iam in zone 5-6 and you are in zones 7-8 (plant hardiness) as per an exact number thats a bit anal.
> 
> Lawmart




Now you guys are getting me worried. Just decided last week to switch to green teeth and ordered a bunch of 700 series. Ya'all sound like 900 is the better option...


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## stump bandit

*green teeth*



ironstumper said:


> Now you guys are getting me worried. Just decided last week to switch to green teeth and ordered a bunch of 700 series. Ya'all sound like 900 is the better option...



You may not want to here this but I will tell you anyway. When Green Teeth hit the market, I thought they were a good choice but the science of grinding wheels has left them in the dust. It took me four tries before I found a cutter wheel that is really good. One of the systems I tried was Green Teeth. I tried to tell folks on this sight a few months ago about this wheel that I am using and I got accused of being a sales person for them. That's OK. If I am able to help someone and make it so they don't have to spend the kind of money that I have had to spend to find the right cutter wheel then I will be happy. Try The Revolution by New River Equipment. Since I first spoke about how great this wheel is, Brush Bandit has started putting it on all of there machines. I have ground just under 600 stumps since putting this wheel on. I have only sharpened the teeth two times and I still have half of the tooth life left. I have not lost any carbide tips in all this time. I have a new Revolution wheel on the way for my small machine as well. Will let you all know how it does.


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## stump bandit

They are Sandvik teeth


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## OLD MAN GRINDER

stump bandit said:


> You may not want to here this but I will tell you anyway. When Green Teeth hit the market, I thought they were a good choice but the science of grinding wheels has left them in the dust. It took me four tries before I found a cutter wheel that is really good. One of the systems I tried was Green Teeth. I tried to tell folks on this sight a few months ago about this wheel that I am using and I got accused of being a sales person for them. That's OK. If I am able to help someone and make it so they don't have to spend the kind of money that I have had to spend to find the right cutter wheel then I will be happy. Try The Revolution by New River Equipment. Since I first spoke about how great this wheel is, Brush Bandit has started putting it on all of there machines. I have ground just under 600 stumps since putting this wheel on. I have only sharpened the teeth two times and I still have half of the tooth life left. I have not lost any carbide tips in all this time. I have a new Revolution wheel on the way for my small machine as well. Will let you all know how it does.



Thx for the info, i have thought about the revolution wheel but a little out of my price range right now, but when wheel i have now shows enough wear i will probably switch, my bandit came with 900 series green teeth which are much better than the 700 series on my other machines, the only complaint i have is they really throw the chips, but that could also be because of the increased wheel speed of my all hydraulic machine, i have thought about resharpening teeth but at 10.00 each i don't think it is worth it at this time, at 50 hrs i replaced straights, turned long angles once and short angles are still sharp, not bad compared to other teeth i have used..

Bob...


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## ironstumper

Green Teeth have introduced their own Green Wheel. I think I will give that a try. Only 6 teeth on the whole wheel. Video looks impressive...


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## OLD MAN GRINDER

ironstumper said:


> Green Teeth have introduced their own Green Wheel. I think I will give that a try. Only 6 teeth on the whole wheel. Video looks impressive...



Thx for the info, i'll chk it out...

Bob...


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## stump bandit

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> Thx for the info, i have thought about the revolution wheel but a little out of my price range right now, but when wheel i have now shows enough wear i will probably switch, my bandit came with 900 series green teeth which are much better than the 700 series on my other machines, the only complaint i have is they really throw the chips, but that could also be because of the increased wheel speed of my all hydraulic machine, i have thought about resharpening teeth but at 10.00 each i don't think it is worth it at this time, at 50 hrs i replaced straights, turned long angles once and short angles are still sharp, not bad compared to other teeth i have used..
> 
> Bob...



Thanks for the feedback Bob. You are rite about cost. It cost me around 2000 for the wheel for my big machine and the wheel I have on order now for my smaller machine will be about 1000. The up side is that I have not spent anything on teeth in about 80 hrs. I have sharpened them twice and have at least 3 more sharpening s before these teeth are done. You need to sharpen your own teeth. It cost me about 1.00 per tooth. I bought a variable speed 5 inch grinder for 150.00 and the diamond disc was 100.00 with shipping. I can get about 100 teeth sharpened with one wheel. The really nice thing is that I don't have to take the teeth off to sharpen them. I think there are better diamond grinding wheels but I have not found them yet


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## OLD MAN GRINDER

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> Thx for the info, i'll chk it out...
> 
> Bob...



Looked at the video's, would have to try it out myself on a real stump, not the rotted ones they use in the stump grinding video's, i really can't see how 6 teeth can cut as good as 18, looks like u would be constantly changing teeth, but back to sharpening, i have a green wheel and going to give it a go since things slow down during the winter and i have more time on my hands..

Bob....


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## ironstumper

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> Looked at the video's, would have to try it out myself on a real stump, not the rotted ones they use in the stump grinding video's, i really can't see how 6 teeth can cut as good as 18, looks like u would be constantly changing teeth, but back to sharpening, i have a green wheel and going to give it a go since things slow down during the winter and i have more time on my hands..
> 
> Bob....



Bob,

I'm going to give the "Green Wheel" a shot in the spring. I'll let you know what I find out.

Stump Bandit,

If you're reading this, I found a diamond wheel at lowes for $65 and sharpened some of my Vermeer Pro Teeth on the grinder. I was very disappointed in the speed. It sharpened; but slowly. I have done many sharpening's before with a green wheel. I wanted to get away from that cuz the dust is very bad to breath. Even wearing a respirator I found that I would be blowing black crud out my nose afterward. ( Might be my full beard not allowing a decent seal)

Doug


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## ironstumper

Stump Bandit,

That diamond wheel is called a segmented diamond wheel.


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## OLD MAN GRINDER

ironstumper said:


> Bob,
> 
> I'm going to give the "Green Wheel" a shot in the spring. I'll let you know what I find out.
> 
> Stump Bandit,
> 
> Thx, looking fwd to your report in the spring....
> 
> Bob....


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## NCgrinder

*Sharpening teeth*

Here's my $0.02 worth : I have a Vermeer 252 ( 2500+hrs) . I've used it for the last 12 yrs and it still has the original cutter wheel !! When I first started ,I used the premium Vermeer cutter teeth. With only 25 HP, when any tooth wears a bit ,production slows down. So ,long ago ,I switched to the old 1/2" x 1/2" square-shank tooth & pocket. For the last 9-10 yrs ,I have bought them fro SDM tools in Calif. Their current price is in the $2.65 range and the flat-rate ship them to me for around $13.00. I usually order in lots of 100,so I have around $2.85 tooth cost each
Around this part of NC, there's a lot of granite,flint , & quartz not counting the abrasive red clay..As soon as I feel I'm wasting time,I'll slap on a few new teeth and get back to making the chips fly
Looking at the cost of grinding wheels,removal & replacement, pairing & grinding worn teeth,etc it just doesn't make sense to me to resharpen..besides , most of the time the shank is worn also.. 
I pitch my worn teeth in a barrel and once a year ,I haul it to the recycler...If I really wanted to recoup more of my expense, I could melt the brazing and seperate the carbide from the shank.. but I figure the time spent plus oxy/acetelyne cost kinda makes it a wash.
Just my thoughts on the matter

Stan NCGrinder


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## stump bandit

ironstumper said:


> Stump Bandit,
> 
> That diamond wheel is called a segmented diamond wheel.



Thanks for the feedback on the wheel and I will check it out. In the mean time, I did find one for 100.00 with shipping. It seems to be working ok. My new Revolution wheel will be here tomorrow for my Kan-Du. I will let you all know next week how it does. I thought I saw a post from someone else that is running a Kan-Du but now I can't find the post. If any of you are running one, I would love to compare notes. Thanks, Wes


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## stump bandit

*New Revolution wheel for Kan Du*

This was my first week using the new wheel on my small machine. It did not disappoint. My first job was 10 Loblolly Pine stumps that averaged 24 inch dia. This wood is not real hard but it is very fiberis. It took me 1hr 35min. to grind them. 30-40% faster than with the old wheel and almost no visible wear on the teeth. I also ground a 26 inch Oak stump that took about 15 minutes. The cost for the wheel was about $650. The Kan-du has the shaft welded to the wheel, so by the time they welded the shaft on and dressed it with teeth and sent some extra teeth, The total with shipping was $950. This is less than half what the wheel cost for my Carlton 8018TRX so I was happy with that.


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## OLD MAN GRINDER

stump bandit said:


> This was my first week using the new wheel on my small machine. It did not disappoint. My first job was 10 Loblolly Pine stumps that averaged 24 inch dia. This wood is not real hard but it is very fiberis. It took me 1hr 35min. to grind them. 30-40% faster than with the old wheel and almost no visible wear on the teeth. I also ground a 26 inch Oak stump that took about 15 minutes. The cost for the wheel was about $650. The Kan-du has the shaft welded to the wheel, so by the time they welded the shaft on and dressed it with teeth and sent some extra teeth, The total with shipping was $950. This is less than half what the wheel cost for my Carlton 8018TRX so I was happy with that.



You ground 10 pine stumps in 1hr and 35min, that is absolutely amazing, i have a 38 hp
bandit 2550 that could not even approach that, i have had 4 grinders and none of them 
could have done that, even my pto grinder, if the revolution wheel can do that then i need to order it immediately....

Bob....


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## stump bandit

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> You ground 10 pine stumps in 1hr and 35min, that is absolutely amazing, i have a 38 hp
> bandit 2550 that could not even approach that, i have had 4 grinders and none of them
> could have done that, even my pto grinder, if the revolution wheel can do that then i need to order it immediately....
> 
> Bob....



Hi Bob and Stan, Keep in mind that this is just grinding time. I spent another 30 minutes raking mulch into the holes but I still think that is great time. I agree with Stan. If you are going to use the half inch shank tooth, it does not make since to sharpen your teeth. When I used them, I just pitched them when they got dull. The problem I have, is that in some areas where I work, because of rock, they may get dull in 30 minutes or even lose a tip or at times just break the shank completaly. With the new wheels, the carbide is much harder. It takes much longer to dull and I have never lost a tip. I feel like the grinding time on the small grinder has increased by 30% at least and 50% on my big grinder. The other benefit that is hard to measure is how smooth the cut is. That translates to taking better care of the machine. I am still experimenting with the sharpening thing but it takes me about 3-4 minutes to sharpen a tooth on the machine so because each tooth is 13.00 I think it pays off. The tooth that is on the Revolution is Sandvik and I think it may be the same tooth that is on the Razer. They just sent me another tooth to try that has a bit different design. Thanks, Wes


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## stump bandit

stump bandit said:


> Hi Bob and Stan, Keep in mind that this is just grinding time. I spent another 30 minutes raking mulch into the holes but I still think that is great time. I agree with Stan. If you are going to use the half inch shank tooth, it does not make since to sharpen your teeth. When I used them, I just pitched them when they got dull. The problem I have, is that in some areas where I work, because of rock, they may get dull in 30 minutes or even lose a tip or at times just break the shank completaly. With the new wheels, the carbide is much harder. It takes much longer to dull and I have never lost a tip. I feel like the grinding time on the small grinder has increased by 30% at least and 50% on my big grinder. The other benefit that is hard to measure is how smooth the cut is. That translates to taking better care of the machine. I am still experimenting with the sharpening thing but it takes me about 3-4 minutes to sharpen a tooth on the machine so because each tooth is 13.00 I think it pays off. The tooth that is on the Revolution is Sandvik and I think it may be the same tooth that is on the Razer. They just sent me another tooth to try that has a bit different design. Thanks, Wes



As far as taking a video of grinding the teeth. I don't know how to post it but I will get some help with that. I still don't feel like I have the grinding thing down but getting closer. Wes


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## OLD MAN GRINDER

U did 10 pine stumps avg 24" in 1 hr 35 min or 95 min or 9.5 min per stump, i don't know
how old they were or how deep u went but if they were flush cut to the ground and u only
went down 4" that would still be awsome, if they avg 24", that means some were 30" or more, i would love more info as i have never been able to do fresh cut pine that quick with any of the grinders i have owned, unless they were 3-4 yrs old, u would have taken a minute or so to reposition grinder on the next stump so u are probably looking at 8 min per stump, the pine i do is usually 6" above ground and has side roots just below the ground and a deep tap root, i usually grind 8-10" down at least, if the revolution wheel is really that great i need to get one asap as pine is my worst grind, maybe there is a secret to grinding pine that i don't know about but i have ground thousands of them, i would love to see a video of your grinder with that wheel doing a fresh cut pine 6" above ground and 8" deep in 8 minutes, any help u can give would really be appreciated, if u can do that with a 27hp grinder just think what i could do with a38hp bandit,,,,,any help would be appreciated...

Bob.....


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## stump bandit

OLD MAN GRINDER said:


> U did 10 pine stumps avg 24" in 1 hr 35 min or 95 min or 9.5 min per stump, i don't know
> how old they were or how deep u went but if they were flush cut to the ground and u only
> went down 4" that would still be awsome, if they avg 24", that means some were 30" or more, i would love more info as i have never been able to do fresh cut pine that quick with any of the grinders i have owned, unless they were 3-4 yrs old, u would have taken a minute or so to reposition grinder on the next stump so u are probably looking at 8 min per stump, the pine i do is usually 6" above ground and has side roots just below the ground and a deep tap root, i usually grind 8-10" down at least, if the revolution wheel is really that great i need to get one asap as pine is my worst grind, maybe there is a secret to grinding pine that i don't know about but i have ground thousands of them, i would love to see a video of your grinder with that wheel doing a fresh cut pine 6" above ground and 8" deep in 8 minutes, any help u can give would really be appreciated, if u can do that with a 27hp grinder just think what i could do with a38hp bandit,,,,,any help would be appreciated...
> 
> Bob.....


Hi Bob, The area where I was working was a natural area and I only had to go down 4 inches and the stumps were cut very close. 3-4 inches above ground so I was able to do them in one pass and the teeth were new. I am not sure if you have seen a Kan-Du work but it is probably the fastest moving from stump to stump that I have ever seen. Maybe 15 to 20 seconds spaced at 10 to 15 ft. I just went from a 24 hp Onan to a 35 hp Briggs Vangaurd so that is a big improvement as well. We are just rapping up putting together a website and I need to get a video done of both machines. I will be glad to share when that is done. Needless to say, I am really happy with the production. Wes


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## Topbuilder

Updating a year old thread...
I never did install the 900 series teeth on my RG50. Now a year and 100s of hours later I feel confident I will not like them better than running 1100s. I now have over a 100 1100s I run on both machines... (RG1642, rg50) it just makes sense to run the same teeth.
so... If there is anyone running 900s that is looking for a deal on two sets of teeth and One set of 18 (6 straight, 12 angled) pockets/bolts ...
The bolts are for the 1 1/2" wheel. I have $650 tied up in it, make me an offer if interested.
If there is anyone out there running 900s on a 50 I would like to know what you think about them.


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