# chipper infeed wheels wont go in reverse



## outdoorsman0490 (May 15, 2011)

Howdy All,

The chipper in question is a 1994 Bandit 90, the chipper has only 345 hours on it. While I was chipping some brush yesterday, when I tried to put the feed wheels into reverse, they wouldn't go. Currently, the safety bar still has a full range of motion from forward to reverse, and works fine pulling the brush in. However, when you push the bar away from you, the wheels only go to the stopped position, not into reverse. Occasionally the wheels do go into reverse, but very infrequently. Also, when they do go into reverse, you can feel a slight difference in how the bar engages/disengages the pump. The other thing I have noticed is that if you push away on the bar very hard continually, you can get the wheels to go in reverse very slowly sometimes.
It seems to me the problem could be the "rod" which connects the safety bar to the hydraulics. Possibly the rod isn't going in far enough for the gear to switch to reverse, maybe something is misaligned in there most of the time but lines up occasionally.

Anyone out there have any issue like this on any chipper? I would appreciate the help. Thanks guys


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## Steve-Maine (May 16, 2011)

*Chipper infeed wheels won't go in reverse*

Just need to adjust the rod. To make sure, discount the rod and work valve by hand. If it stills doesn't work the valve is defective. Any hydrauhic dealer like Motion Industries have them. A lot cheaper than a dealer. I have had chippers for years and usually buy my parts locally for atleast one half what a dealer wants. Good Luck


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## ArborquipSP (May 16, 2011)

On the back of the feed control valve is a detent with a cap over it.
If the part either loosens it self out of the spool it is screwed into it will cause the spool not to travel far enough (because the detent is hitting the cap it is under) making it not go into reverse. Or the detent is so rusty it will not go into reverse the detent comes in a kit and will need a drag-link socket to remove it from the spool.
Here is a link to the one I use.
A26A, Socket, Drag Link, 3/4" Blade Width

Scott


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## outdoorsman0490 (May 16, 2011)

thanks guys, just got home from work, hopefully this rain holds off so I can give this a try


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## outdoorsman0490 (May 17, 2011)

I went out yesterday and detached the safety bar in order to see if the valve was bad. I worked the lever by hand, but it still did not go into reverse. I took the cap off the opposite side and I did not find any rust under it. I did however find a ball bearing amongst the grease. While the cap was off, I noticed the rod pushed in further, I figured the ball bearing was limiting the movement, so I took it out. I put everything back together and it works fine now. I talked to someone else last night and they said that the ball bearing is supposed to be there, but it is supposed to be recessed in the end of the rod, it must have popped out and needs to be put back in, is what he said. 

I will give that a try, although it does seem to work fine without the ball bearing. Which leads me to wonder what is the purpose of that ball bearing in the first place. 

Thanks again guys.


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## ArborquipSP (May 17, 2011)

It will work some what with the ball out of it. The detent feature will not really be there to keep it in fwd/rev though. You will have to take it apart to see how it works the center ball ( the big one) has a small spring behind it pushing on it. There are also 4 small balls between the big ball and the outside collar. That collar has groves in it 
For those small balls to drop into to keep it in the direction you put it in. I would replace the detent because that big ball should not fall out of the center if it does it usually means the small balls or the groves in the collar are worn out from years of use. 

Scott


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VA-Sawyer (May 17, 2011)

The ball bearing is part of the detent. That is where the valve feels like it pops into position and it takes a little pressure to move from that position and then it pops into another one.

The ball bearing should be spring loaded so it can pop part way out in a groove. This is what gives the valve that feel of shifting from one position to another.
Rick


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## outdoorsman0490 (May 18, 2011)

yes, i did feel the spring behind the big ball bearing. Tomorrow after work I am going to take that cap off and take a look in there again, see if I can get the bearing to sit back in that recess it is supposed to be in. Hopefully it stays put, but if it keeps popping back out, i know I need to replace that part. 

Thanks again guys


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## outdoorsman0490 (May 23, 2011)

I didn't put the ball bearing back in yet, but I used it the other day for a couple of trees w/o the bearing and it worked like a dream.


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