# Rifle Scopes



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 4, 2012)

I want to put a better scope on my .22 rim fire. I have trouble seeing at 50 yards with a 3-9*32. What do you guys think I should do. Don't have a big budget to spend just want something a little easier and more accurate then what I got now. I do plan on putting a target barrel on the rifle for better accuracy also. Thanks for any help guys.:msp_thumbup:


----------



## 2treeornot2tree (Mar 4, 2012)

a leapould 3x9x40 var 3. there about $300 good glass for the price


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 4, 2012)

What ever you get, make sure it has an AO, or is at least paralex free at 50 yards, for a 22 RF.

I don't try to save money on scopes, i buy GOOD scopes and then keep them. If i sell the rifle it's on, i take the scope off and put it on the next rifle!

I'm about to buy a Leupod 3x9-33 EFR for a new 22 i have on order. I will keep the scope the rest of my life, so why put up with poor optics on a rifle??

Rob


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 4, 2012)

*scopes*

You told us the power but not the brand of scope you have now. On a .22lr for field use and plinking you really don't need much. I have a Leupold FX-I Rimfire 4X28mm and it does all I need it to do and well. 

You could go FX-II 6X36mm with Duplex recticle @ about $300 out the door. If you can't get the accuracy your looking for with that, it isn't the scope that is the problem.

Next I would do a trigger job before a rebarrel.


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 4, 2012)

*Variable scopes*

By the way its not 3X9X40, It would be 3-9X40mm. The 3-9X is the power, the 40mm is the Objective. The dash denotes that it is a variable.


----------



## 2treeornot2tree (Mar 4, 2012)

Yeah I know, I was typing one handed while holding the daughter


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 4, 2012)

Mueller scopes are a nice value for something more powerful than a 3-9X. 

Mueller APV 4.5-14x40
Mueller Eraticator 8.5-25×50 (don't know if you want 50mm)

The folks at RimfireCentral.com are a great resource. Here's their scopes forum: Scopes, Rings, Mounts and Other Gun Mounted Optics - RimfireCentral.com Forums


----------



## Farm Boy (Mar 4, 2012)

I'd get what ever your budget will allow in a 40mm objective and get a good mounting base and rings. I'm partial to Leupold dove tail mounts and rings. I've bought Leopold from Optics Planet dot com. Competitive in price, first run quality, and excellent customer service. I wouldn't rule out Redfield, Nikon, or even Tasco if you're budget is tight.


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 4, 2012)

TreePointer said:


> Mueller scopes are a nice value for something more powerful than a 3-9X.
> 
> Mueller APV 4.5-14x40
> Mueller Eraticator 8.5-25×50 (don't know if you want 50mm)
> ...



We're talking a .22lr here, 14X40mm and 25X50mm really? I would love to hear the reasoning here, never mind clearly no reasoning was used. Besides the fact that it would be overkill it will be way to heavy and bulky. Make the rifle look like a science project gone wrong!


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 4, 2012)

Huskytree said:


> We're talking a .22lr here, 14X40mm and 25X50mm really? I would love to hear the reasoning here, never mind clearly no reasoning was used. Besides the fact that it would be overkill it will be way to heavy and bulky. Make the rifle look like a science project gone wrong!



Okay, here's my reasoning...

Original Post:



Sheldon Cooper said:


> I want to put a better scope on my .22 rim fire. *I have trouble seeing at 50 yards with a 3-9*32.* What do you guys think I should do. Don't have a big budget to spend just want something a little easier and more accurate then what I got now. I* do plan on putting a target barrel on the rifle for better accuracy also.* Thanks for any help guys.:msp_thumbup:



It depends on what you OP wants to do with his rifle.

OP stated that he has trouble seeing at 50 yards with a 3-9X. I took the easy assumption that 9x is not enough power; therefore, more power is needed. That's why I jumped to 14X on the APV and also a higher model. Now I do understand that "trouble seeing" could be less light from the smaller 32mm objective or smallish tube, or it also could be just be a low quality scope with a not so good higher magnification (For instance: 3-6x may be very clear, but not so much around 8-9x). Maybe it's a scope that is near its max elevation/wind adjustment and OP is not getting the most out of the optic. One thing we don't know is the make & model of the current scope and its condition.

Sure, a nice Leupold 4x is enough for me to hunt with, but if you're punching paper, many shooters certainly desire and use more magnification than 9X, more light, and other features. The APV may be too big for a Marlin 60, but not for other rimfires, and especially during benchrest shooting/competition.

BTW, I have both Mueller models mentioned and have shot paper and hunted with the APV on a .22LR and 17HMR.


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 4, 2012)

*check out my first post*

I said the OP didn't tell us what scope. And there in most likely lies the problem. 

9X @ 50yards isn't enough? Then clearly the scope isn't the problem provided we are talking even a mediocer scope is being used.

Yup I like more power and Turrets target shooting, centerfire longrange! 3.5-10X40mm Leupold Mark 4 on top of a 6.5X.284 shooting hand loads of Lapua brass, CCI Primers, 55.5gr of N165 powder, pushing a 140gr VLD a touch over 2800fps out of a 24" barrel. But in fairness only out to 1200 yards.


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 4, 2012)

Sounds like fun, but I was addressing your contention that 14X or 25X is overkill on a .22LR. IMO, scope power depends on what OP is shooting (squirrels/rabbits, steel cans, paper in competition) and at what distance.

Just hitting a pie plate diameter @1200 yards is an accomplishment with some centerfire setups. Competitive *rimfire* target is another beast. It's not uncommon to see a Weaver T-36 or better on some* rimfires*. 10X won't do it when you're measuring winner groups (sometimes cloverleafs) with calipers @ 50 and 100 yards.


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 4, 2012)

*yup*

I use to shoot those pesty little .22lr off hand with sights. I know what you need to win. I highly doubt the OP competes and plans to. I could be wrong!

If he were shooting something like an Anschutz or custom BR then I doubt he would be posting the question. 

If I weren't so attached to my Model 64 I would sell it. To me that is about as boring of shooting one can do. But it is a solid rifle and I will shoot it at the range for fun and cheap trigger time.


----------



## Eecho (Mar 4, 2012)

*Unreal lol*

The fact that you want to put a .22 out past 50 for hunting is pretty much absurd but a 100 yd shot isnt out of the question . Its not like a 22 should even be shot that far , I know already the competition guys are gonna start . But look its this simple your not shooting a deer rifle for petes sake and secondly the average .22 isnt more then 200 $ nowadays unless your paying 2 grand for a volzquartezen then your pretty much going way over kill . If your scope is blurring at higher power then by all means buy a decent enough scope . Good brands come with big cost . Personally I have a reworked voltsquartzen trigger pack in my 10/22 with a redot that I can spin bottle caps off at 50 yds . I also have a browning that I can take the eyes out of small game at 75 but its only sporting a tasco 4x scope from the 80s thats still as crystal clear as the day I bought it. I cant see putting a huge bugdet scope on a gun thats 200$ but to each his own. Possibly the problem your facing is that when you dial in a scope are you looking at the crosshairs at 9 x they should be as crisp as 3 x go buy a trijicon and youll get good optics for 900$ at minimum but you can see past 100 yds but then your going to be doing nothing but compensating for drop on a 22 . I think I would save for a .204 or 17 hmr if I were going distance and quality. I shoot eley ammo in both mine and the stuff is exceptional but not a 204 . Your optics here are not the only obstacle your going to face in this dilema .


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 4, 2012)

*I disagree*

I shoot out to 100 yards all the time hunting yotes, fox, and tree rats. I know a lot of others that do too. Where legal to rifle hunt turkeys they are fun with a .22lr and those damn heads never stop moving. I haven't got one at 100yards yet but 70.

$200 rifles are well $200 rifles some like a little better quality then a 10/22. All my .22lr's are bolt action flavor. CZ, Cooper, and Anschutz. They are all tack drivers.

So you think hunting with a .17HMR is a better round out to 100 yards? I will assume because of the better BC. I'll take lower BC with heavier hitting 40gr of lead!


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 4, 2012)

I didn't think OP wanted top-of-the line, either. But he did say he had "trouble seeing" at 50 yards with a 3-9X32, and "don't have a big budget," and wants "something a little easier and more accurate," and is planning on installing a target barrel. I recommended what is likely a decent improvement in power and clarity at under $130; but as you all have stated, in order to give better advice, we need more info from OP as to what he's using now and what his goals are.

...or just post this question at RimfireCentral. I've been a regular there for 6 years, and and I don't know of a better .22 forum on the Internet. They manage to keep a polite atmosphere (for an Internet forum), too!


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 4, 2012)

Huskytree said:


> So you think hunting with a .17HMR is a better round out to 100 yards? I will assume because of the better BC. I'll take lower BC with heavier hitting 40gr of lead!



IMO, a good .22LR and shooter can match a .17HMR out to 100 yards if the conditions are right. I use my .17HMR more for "varminting." I shoot groundhogs out to 150 yards (and sometimes farther) with 17HMR (20gr HP) off a picnic table on the back porch every spring-summer. Combine that range with the groundhog's thick head and the .17HMR is much better suited.


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 4, 2012)

*Woodchuck*

I have yet to have a woodchuck like any of my .22lr's and have shot a few to 150 +/- yards and not get back up. I am not a fan of the .17HMR and would take the .22lr or even 5mm over it all day long. I am bias I do like the 5mm ALOT!


----------



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 5, 2012)

Huskytree said:


> You told us the power but not the brand of scope you have now. On a .22lr for field use and plinking you really don't need much. I have a Leupold FX-I Rimfire 4X28mm and it does all I need it to do and well.
> 
> You could go FX-II 6X36mm with Duplex recticle @ about $300 out the door. If you can't get the accuracy your looking for with that, it isn't the scope that is the problem.
> 
> Next I would do a trigger job before a rebarrel.



Already replaced my trigger ass with one that gives me about 2.5 pound pull on the rifle (Ruger 10-22). When I got it I started to look at ways to trick it out.

This is the first rifle I ever owned so I'm real green when it comes to shooting. Got a Bushnell scope on it now, I think it cost about $50. I've put about 1000 rounds through it just experimenting with stuff. The ammo that the gun likes is Remington Viper hyper velocity. I tried a couple brands of high velocity but wasn't that impressed. I learned how to fully strip the rifle down and reassemble then from there I started looking for ways to trick it out and turn it into a smoken tack driver. Any help you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated, I got lot's to learn.:msp_thumbup:


----------



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 5, 2012)

Huskytree said:


> By the way its not 3X9X40, It would be 3-9X40mm. The 3-9X is the power, the 40mm is the Objective. The dash denotes that it is a variable.



What gives you better magnification, the power or the objective?


----------



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 5, 2012)

TreePointer said:


> Sounds like fun, but I was addressing your contention that 14X or 25X is overkill on a .22LR. IMO, scope power depends on what OP is shooting (squirrels/rabbits, steel cans, paper in competition) and at what distance.
> 
> Just hitting a pie plate diameter @1200 yards is an accomplishment with some centerfire setups. Competitive *rimfire* target is another beast. It's not uncommon to see a Weaver T-36 or better on some* rimfires*. 10X won't do it when you're measuring winner groups (sometimes cloverleafs) with calipers @ 50 and 100 yards.




So far I have just been shooting paper at 50 yards from a front rest bag and me trying to hold the rear of the rifle steady. I just have trouble seeing my groupings with the current scope on the paper.


----------



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 5, 2012)

Eecho said:


> The fact that you want to put a .22 out past 50 for hunting is pretty much absurd but a 100 yd shot isnt out of the question . Its not like a 22 should even be shot that far , I know already the competition guys are gonna start . But look its this simple your not shooting a deer rifle for petes sake and secondly the average .22 isnt more then 200 $ nowadays unless your paying 2 grand for a volzquartezen then your pretty much going way over kill . If your scope is blurring at higher power then by all means buy a decent enough scope . Good brands come with big cost . Personally I have a reworked voltsquartzen trigger pack in my 10/22 with a redot that I can spin bottle caps off at 50 yds . I also have a browning that I can take the eyes out of small game at 75 but its only sporting a tasco 4x scope from the 80s thats still as crystal clear as the day I bought it. I cant see putting a huge bugdet scope on a gun thats 200$ but to each his own. Possibly the problem your facing is that when you dial in a scope are you looking at the crosshairs at 9 x they should be as crisp as 3 x go buy a trijicon and youll get good optics for 900$ at minimum but you can see past 100 yds but then your going to be doing nothing but compensating for drop on a 22 . I think I would save for a .204 or 17 hmr if I were going distance and quality. I shoot eley ammo in both mine and the stuff is exceptional but not a 204 . Your optics here are not the only obstacle your going to face in this dilema .



The next rifle I would like to get is a .223 cal. Would this be a good varmint rifle for coyotes skunks and other pests? Just figured I would get good with the .22 before I started shooting more expensive ammo in a bigger cal.


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 5, 2012)

Sheldon Cooper said:


> So far I have just been shooting paper at 50 yards from a front rest bag and me trying to hold the rear of the rifle steady. I just have trouble seeing my groupings with the current scope on the paper.



Doh! :bang: All this time I thought you had trouble seeing the bullseye/target, LOL! 

You aren't expected to see .22 or smaller holes on paper with a 9X scope at 50 yards well at all. 

Options:

1. Use Shoot-n-C target papers
2. Use a separate spotting scope for viewing holes at a distance. (I like this one.)
3. Use a higher powered scope. This could be a 16X scope or higher magnification.
4. Git off yer butt and walk down to the target! (just kidding )


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 5, 2012)

Sheldon Cooper said:


> Oh OK thanks for correcting me on that. What gives you better magnification, the power or the objective?



Everything before the "X" is magnification. Magnification = power.

Example of a fixed magnification scope:
4X32 scope = 4X 32mm = things look 4 times (4X) larger and it has a 32mm objective lense

Example of a variable magnification scope:
3-9X40 scope = 3-9X 40mm = things look 3 to 9 times larger (depending on where you set it) and it has a 40mm objective lense

Objective lense is the lense at the end of the scope. The larger the objective lense, more light enters the scope.

Helpful FAQ:
How to Choose a Rifle Scope - Riflescope Experts Guide to Firearm Optics - Rifle Scope Selection Tips


----------



## dingeryote (Mar 5, 2012)

Sheldon Cooper said:


> What gives you better magnification, the power or the objective?



The Objective is the "Front" lens. Theoreticly, the larger the objective, the more light can make it through to your eyeball(Exit pupil) on the other end. What is not constant, is lens quality and coatings, as well as lens alignment and interior finish, and is where light and image is "lost".

A superb quality 3x9x32 can easily be "Brighter" than a cheapo 3x9x50 in this regard. 

The magnification of a scope actually comes at the cost of image clarity and light transmission.
On the high end variables, the loss is negligable because the superior optics and alignment is already providing more light than your eyeball can use before the loss. On cheapos, it is obvious. 

The Euros do most of thier big game hunting from an elevated stand at night(Rich dudes game over there) and the prevalent rifle optics are larger(40mm and up) objective, 30mm tube, fixed 4x and 6X for reasons of light transmission. 

Image and brightness is a function of optical precision and quality, magnification lust is an American quirk and frankly, we gotta have too much most of the time. 

50 yards on a 10/22? a good 2-7 would be more usefull and still handy in the field, while allowing for 100yd plinking.

If you're looking to get silly plinking, the sky is the limit...I have had Weaver V-24's and Leupold 6.5-24's on mine LOL!!
Makes them absolutely useless for just about anything but range plinking though, even if it is maddening fun.

One thing you will need to look for on a .22 scope is having parallax set for 50yds, or adjustable, if you plan on wringing the last bit of accuracy out of the rifle. You can get away with having it fixed at 100 as comes on rifle scopes, but the image error is always there, and you have to remain absolutely consistent with cheek weld to get around it. On most .22's, and for most shooters using less than match quality ammo, they will never notice the error however.

Good glass cheap? 
Good luck with that one. There is good glass, but it is never cheap. The best compromise between quality and price is where things get ineteresting, and the best deals are to be had. Look for Leupold and Burris Demo units, and used. Pentax, Nikon, Weaver, Swift, and the Bushnell Elite(Used to be Bausch and Lomb line) series have mid priced units that are reliable good buys.

Keep an eyeball on the closeout page at SWFA for bargains, as sometimes they blow out thier gunshow demos for half price.

CDNN can be good as well, but you have to know what you are looking for, as they carry a LOT of "Chins house of optics" junk that can be tempting on the price, but result in regret later.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


----------



## Eecho (Mar 5, 2012)

I much prefer a faster round nowadays, I know we just started seeing coyotes here . I pick them off with a 204 but I do like the 25.06 its not quite so big as to blow the hell out of them . Both the 204 and 25 are super flat shooters the 204 definately being the best but the 25 is a older round based on a really old case . I would try looking for a scope in the 150 to 300 range for a 10/22 . They are nice guns but you cant expect too much from a gun thats only 200-400 depending in accessories . I love mine dont get me wrong ammo is cheap I put the volzquartezen recoil buffer in mine and use aquila hyper velocity which is made by eley the olympic shooters use it . It feeds sweet might not be as dirty as the remington stuff but if it doesnt feed well then its junk too lol. The main thing I look for in a good scope is first does the recticle/crosshairs stay sharp when focused out to the max power if not its cheap. Most guys here say top dollar top clarity not always the case when the guns not even suitable to shoot as far as the scope reliably. Personally im not a fan of the .223 its not a bad round I just dont think its a round I need I think from 204 to 25.06 im covered in coyote to deer . Hell I use the 30.06 with the accelerators which is just a 25.06 sabot in a 30 06 gun for deer . I think theres nice flat shooters above it such as the 6.5 creedmore that can rival it but I like beimg able to find the rounds in the gun shop too . My best advise is try some range time with some friends with different calibers, and see who has what you might like. Then start reading up on it and see if it does what you want it to do . I live on a 85 acre farm where a 600 yd shot is possible but I have yet to sling lead that far . In all reality my average shot is 200 yds realistic and last year both bucks I took were 10 feet away so you get my drift. Your abilty will improve dramtically off shooting a 22 but soon as you move up it all will change , so best advice put your,time in you may run across a guy nice enough there that ll let you check his personal arsenal out too if you find it easy to make friends . Hell if you were closer id offer up some of mine lol.


----------



## Eecho (Mar 5, 2012)

dingeryote said:


> The Objective is the "Front" lens. Theoreticly, the larger the objective, the more light can make it through to your eyeball(Exit pupil) on the other end. What is not constant, is lens quality and coatings, as well as lens alignment and interior finish, and is where light and image is "lost".
> 
> A superb quality 3x9x32 can easily be "Brighter" than a cheapo 3x9x50 in this regard.
> 
> ...





I think you forgot zeiss and swavorsky lol hell put a 4000 $ optic on that bad boy lol. Good explanation all the same I go for the short version myself.


----------



## dingeryote (Mar 5, 2012)

Eecho said:


> I think you forgot zeiss and swavorsky lol hell put a 4000 $ optic on that bad boy lol. Good explanation all the same I go for the short version myself.




Bang for the buck, both are on the outside right of the bell curve. LOL!!
He was hinting around the 3 bills mark, and ya can't touch the Zeis welfare grade stuff for that...used.

Heck I got to a point where I realized I had more into optics than rifles at one point.
It's a disease like CAD. 

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


----------



## derwoodii (Mar 5, 2012)

Plinking 9 pwr will do. If ya need be hitting bench rest target paper at 50 yards 9pwr runs outta puff I've gone 3.5 - 14 on 22lr for bunnies and even 24pwr for a bench rest target Lr set up

Leupold if you can, but Nicko Tasco will do it just as well


----------



## Swamp Yankee (Mar 5, 2012)

Sawyer Rob said:


> What ever you get, make sure it has an AO, or is at least paralex free at 50 yards, for a 22 RF.



To the OP

If you're having trouble with clarity at 50 yards, the inability of the scope to focus at close range is most likely a big part of the problem. It matters not the cost or quality of manufacture of the scope if it cannot focus parallax free down to the range that you're shooting. This is why scopes designed specifically for shotguns and rimfires are set to be parallax free at 50 yards. In short, a $1000 variable power scope set to be parallax free at 100 yards and beyond, or that doesn't have an AO that can't focus down to a distance of 50 yards isn't really going improve the situation.

My advice, call the folks at Bear Basin. Very knowledgeable and will ask questions based upon your application and budget to get you the right scope and mounts.

Binoculars, Spotting Scopes, Rifle Scopes, Rangefinders & Premium Sport Optics At Bear Basin Outfitters - Free Shipping Orders of $199 or More

Take Care


----------



## 2treeornot2tree (Mar 5, 2012)

Sheldon Cooper said:


> Already replaced my trigger ass with one that gives me about 2.5 pound pull on the rifle (Ruger 10-22). When I got it I started to look at ways to trick it out.
> 
> This is the first rifle I ever owned so I'm real green when it comes to shooting. Got a Bushnell scope on it now, I think it cost about $50. I've put about 1000 rounds through it just experimenting with stuff. The ammo that the gun likes is Remington Viper hyper velocity. I tried a couple brands of high velocity but wasn't that impressed. I learned how to fully strip the rifle down and reassemble then from there I started looking for ways to trick it out and turn it into a smoken tack driver. Any help you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated, I got lot's to learn.:msp_thumbup:



I have a ruger 10-22 usa shooting team addition. It has a stainless hammermilled bull barrel, wood thumb hole stock. I upgraded the trigger to a kidd trigger that has a nice crisp 1lb pull. They run around $300. I also upgraded to one of there bolt handles and there bolt springs. I also glass beded it too, and make sure it gets torqued back to the proper torque when i take the stock off. That torque makes a big difference in how 10-22 shoots. I got about $1100 into this 10-22. I found the RWS target ammo shoots the best threw it. I have a 3-9x40 leupold vx3 (i think). The lens in $50 scope are junk, and are cloudy, which is why you cant see a hole in paper at 50 yds. I can see my holes at 50 yds no problem with my leupold As you spend more on a scope, you get better glass for the lenses. I have a couple guns setup with tapered bases to shoot 1000 yds with. I have burris black diamond 8-32 x 50 scopes on them. I have compared my black diamond 9cost about $900) to a nightforce scope (cost about $1700), there is a noticable difference. Even the leupold mark 4 scopes are more clear. The hd are just insanly expensive and clear. some pics of my 10-22.


----------



## greendohn (Mar 5, 2012)

.22 cal makes a tiny hole. hard to see at 50 yrds. a spotting scope will help tremendously, just don't try a cheap one. i did and traded it for an old case pocket knife. i put a cheep scope on a cheap .22 years and years ago and it has served me well on squirrels. the sunshine can wreak havoc on that cheap scope. it's almost as though i gotta keep the sun to my back. i don't notice that kind of problem as much with the better scopes i have on my .243 and my 12ga. slug gun. one of these days i'll graduate to a CZ American .22 and will put a leupold or nikon scope on it, as both of those do well as for me as i mentioned above and a guy can afford 'em.

i'm also in love with the Remington pump .22 as it shoots shorts as well as l.r. but i've heard is the CZ shoots better...i guess i'll figure it out when i get the doe to buy one and walk in the gun shop...the remington is also a beautiful lil' gun, but the cz has the better accuracy...all my other guns are remington,,but the cz has the better accuracy,,,:confused2:,,,oh well, it'll be a while as the greenback can be scarce around here and i've been thinkin' more about getting my fishing gear ready for a hard summer of chasing the ever elusive fishes. peace.


----------



## CentaurG2 (Mar 5, 2012)

The 10/22 is a lot of bang for the buck. I have always found the marlin model 60 to be more accurate. You really should not need a glass for anything under a 100 yards. If you are just poking holes in paper try a Williams aperture sight. Start practicing with close targets and as you build confidence and eye strength, lengthen your target distance. It will help keep your eyes sharp. If you get tired of walking, use a reactive target. You can buy or make a spinner or use small silhouettes. Far more rewarding than holes in paper and you will know immediately if you miss. Keep practicing. It is the only way to become a good shot.


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 5, 2012)

*Scopes rifles and all things beginner shooting*

So far your doing pretty well. .22lr is the best and cheapest trigger time you can get. Don't get caught up in shooting volumn, take your time and work on the basics. Sight picture, sight alignment, natural point of aim, breathing, trigger control. Its easier to learn right from the start then to fix bad habits. 

Do your self a favor buy a Leupold FX-1 4X28mm Rimfire scope for the 10/22 cost is $200. Its a great rimfire scope and worth the money. And it won't look stupid on the rifle. Nothing worst then seeing a 10/22 with a Huble scope sitting on it.

.223 great round lots of good bullets for it. Bullets are the key, the case (headstamps) they are set in is way less important.

.25cal one of the worst selections of bullets avalible in any headstamp. I have owned a few .257Roberts, .257AI, .25-06, and .250 sav. All good cases but all feel the same effect of lack of quality bullets for the case.

.17Rem would be a great choice for Yotes and smaller out to 300 yards. The best round you can get if you are selling furs. Also very light recoil so you can see your hits thru the scope.

6mm think (.243) one of the best selections of bullets avalibe. Lots of good headstamps in this group to choose from. My two favorites in this group is the .243AI and 6XC. 

.204Ruger sweet round but the .17Rem thrumps it in my opinion. But I still own one anyways.

Keep shooting, be safe, and have fun.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 5, 2012)

Swamp Yankee said:


> To the OP
> 
> If you're having trouble with clarity at 50 yards, the inability of the scope to focus at close range is most likely a big part of the problem. It matters not the cost or quality of manufacture of the scope if it cannot focus parallax free down to the range that you're shooting. This is why scopes designed specifically for shotguns and rimfires are set to be parallax free at 50 yards. In short, a $1000 variable power scope set to be parallax free at 100 yards and beyond, or that doesn't have an AO that can't focus down to a distance of 50 yards isn't really going improve the situation.



First of all, a scope, NO MATTER what any scope cost, it can only be paralex free at ONE distance at a time.

Secondly, Paralex has NOTHING to do with focus!!!

Rob


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 5, 2012)

dingeryote said:


> Bang for the buck, both are on the outside right of the bell curve. LOL!!
> He was hinting around the 3 bills mark, and ya can't touch the Zeis welfare grade stuff for that...used.
> Dingeryote



Balony! You can buy a Zeiss Conquest 3x9-40 for $400.00 NEW!

I've had Leupolds for many years, but when i checked all the scopes i could get my hands on, the Conquest was the BEST in low light levels, so that's what i bought and have on my "go to" gun,






Fantastic scope at a VERY good price!

Rob


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 5, 2012)

*Conquest scope price*

Closer to $500 but you are correct they aren't all in the 1K+ range.


----------



## Farm Boy (Mar 5, 2012)

Holly mackeral Rob...In all my years of being around firearms, I have never seen a scope mounted like that. On a twin banger to boot...I have now seen everything!


----------



## dingeryote (Mar 6, 2012)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Balony! You can buy a Zeiss Conquest 3x9-40 for $400.00 NEW!
> 
> I've had Leupolds for many years, but when i checked all the scopes i could get my hands on, the Conquest was the BEST in low light levels, so that's what i bought and have on my "go to" gun,
> 
> ...



Best I have found was wholesale through one of the bigger Jobbers at just over 4 bills.
Nice double! Kreighoff?

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


----------



## derwoodii (Mar 6, 2012)

I've just ordered a leupold 6.5 - 20 x 40mm vx3 about $700 landed here for ma No1 223v to replace its clunky nikkon niteater 24 pwr 56mm I canna wait till its fitted up n getting it down the range.

Wow that shottie scope set up twas outta the park :msp_smile:


----------



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 6, 2012)

TreePointer said:


> Doh! :bang: All this time I thought you had trouble seeing the bullseye/target, LOL!
> 
> You aren't expected to see .22 or smaller holes on paper with a 9X scope at 50 yards well at all.
> 
> ...



That's what I do after shooting a few rounds at one of the papers is go see what the pattern looks like up close. I'm accurate enough right now that I can plink empty shotgun shells at 50 yards. You guys could probably do that with the rifle on your shoulder facing backwards at the target using a mirror. lol


----------



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 6, 2012)

dingeryote said:


> Bang for the buck, both are on the outside right of the bell curve. LOL!!
> He was hinting around the 3 bills mark, and ya can't touch the Zeis welfare grade stuff for that...used.
> 
> Heck I got to a point where I realized I had more into optics than rifles at one point.
> ...




I've seen some of the members guns here on the site and it makes me jealous. lol:msp_thumbup:


----------



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 6, 2012)

Huskytree said:


> So far your doing pretty well. .22lr is the best and cheapest trigger time you can get. Don't get caught up in shooting volumn, take your time and work on the basics. Sight picture, sight alignment, natural point of aim, breathing, trigger control. Its easier to learn right from the start then to fix bad habits.
> 
> Do your self a favor buy a Leupold FX-1 4X28mm Rimfire scope for the 10/22 cost is $200. Its a great rimfire scope and worth the money. And it won't look stupid on the rifle. Nothing worst then seeing a 10/22 with a Huble scope sitting on it.
> 
> ...



A buddy of mine has a 22-250 but I was told FPS is so fast that you can burn out a barrel real quick. Is this true?


----------



## walexa07 (Mar 6, 2012)

I haven't read everything in detail, but whatever you choose I recommend Leupold. I've got some other good scopes, Nikon, an old bushnell 4x on my first deer hunting rifle, but anymore Leupold is all I buy.

Leupold Factory Tour

Good luck!

Waylan


----------



## Sheldon Cooper (Mar 6, 2012)

You guys are a great help to me. I don't really know anybody with enough experience in doing things the right way to give me the newbie schooling. I have lots of questions for you guys if you don't mind helping out a marksman newbie.:msp_thumbup:


----------



## dingeryote (Mar 6, 2012)

Sheldon Cooper said:


> A buddy of mine has a 22-250 but I was told FPS is so fast that you can burn out a barrel real quick. Is this true?



Yep. Throat errosion is an issue with the lighter bullets and a heated up barrel. Great for chucks and walking Varminters, but you can really roach the leade on a hot Dog town if you don't mind the rate of fire. No replacing the giggle factor of 3,900fps on a cocky Crow out yonder though. 

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


----------



## D&B Mack (Mar 6, 2012)

Crosman CP394RG-Free Shipping Most Items!

I have this scope on my savage 17 hmr, and I love it. Can't beat it for $100.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 6, 2012)

Farm Boy said:


> Holly mackeral Rob...In all my years of being around firearms, I have never seen a scope mounted like that. On a twin banger to boot...I have now seen everything!









Actually, it's a 3 banger, and you still haven't seen "everything". lol

Rob


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 6, 2012)

*22-250 Barrel and throat question*

Does the 22-250 burn barrels? 

The true answer is it can along with a long list of other headstamps that will. 

Heat is what the number one cause of throat errosion is. That is something that really effects serious target shooters and P Dog shooters. It rarely effects hunters, as most hunters want to know what their rifle does repeatedly on a cold bore shot. A two or three shot string isn't going to burn up a barrel unless you are doing it repeatedly. Which mosy hunters do not do. 

Shooting up a Dog Town with one rifle will get you to throat errosion in a hurry.

If you are going on a P Dog shoot bring a few rifles. 

22-250 and Yote size and down critters is really too much rifle if you plan to sell your furs. If your just wasting the furs then sure it will do the job but still not any better then a whole list of better rounds. The 22-250 is a great all around headstamp from deer, and speed goats, all the way down to P Dogs. In a pure utility hunter it does shine well. Not as well in my eyes as the 6mm does but it ain't far off.


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 6, 2012)

In .224 Bullets I would do either a .223 or .223AI

If I feel I need more then that its time to go up the ladder in bullets

In 6mm (.243) I would run .243 or more to my liking the 6XC

If I need even more I am going to skip over the quarter bores and shop the 6.5mm bullets

In 6.5 there are a lot of really good options to choose from. 6.5X284 is my favorite but there are no real wrong answers in this class.

Need even more then I am again going to skip the .277 for the 7mm (.284) bullets

In 7mm (.284) my choice for non magnum would be the 7-08 and in magnum flavor I like the 7WSM. 

If you still need more then there are good options in the .30 Cal (.308) bullets. I am not a fan but will list a one that shine well for you.

.30 Cal (.308) 30-06 need I say more?

Above this really gets into more a specific purpose rifle so I won't go into them but will list a few that I really like and a few that you just can't go wrong with for larger size big game and DG hunting.

.338 win mag, .338Lapua, 35 Whelen, 375H&H or even better 375Ruger, 404Jeffery, 450-400NE, 45-70, and 470NE.

If you can't get it done with any of these listed it can't be done with anything short of Artilary.


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 6, 2012)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Actually, it's a 3 banger, and you still haven't seen "everything". lol
> 
> Rob



Nice looking drilling. Is it a Merkel?


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 6, 2012)

It's a Krieghoff Semper,











At 7 pounds it's light, very accurate and works perfectly for everything i hunt! It's flattend everything from moose and bear on down to all kinds of small game, and varmits like fox and coyote.

DM


----------



## Huskytree (Mar 6, 2012)

*Can't see the headstamp*

Is that a 7X57 sweet little Drilling you got.


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 6, 2012)

Huskytree said:


> Is that a 7X57 sweet little Drilling you got.








I've flattened some big boys with the nosler "one load for everything" that i use,






Rob


----------



## Farm Boy (Mar 6, 2012)

*Rob, you got me*

You're right....I have never seen a firearm like that. I only saw (2) triggers, do you have a thumb selector to determine which rifle barrell fires? Is there a 22LR barrell that slips inside the shotgun barrell? Thanks for sharing the pics....


----------



## Sawyer Rob (Mar 7, 2012)

OK, here's how it works,






The safety is the button on the right side in the above pict... (it's set up for a LH person) When you slide the safety off with your thumb, the front trigger is for the right shot bbl. (or RF bbl. if the RF bbl is in the right shot bbl.) and the back trigger is for the left shot bbl...

If at any time, you slide the "top tang button foreward", it "raises" the rear open sight and the front trigger then will fire the bottom rifle bbl.. (the rear trigger will stiff fire the left bbl.)

Both triggers work like any other triggers. BUT, for those looong shots at small animals, you can push the front trigger foreward until it "clicks" and then the front trigger becomes a 2oz. trigger! (single set trigger)

It works great for those little coyotes at 300 yards. lol

Rob


----------



## Farm Boy (Mar 7, 2012)

*Thanks clarifying!*

Rob,
Thanks again for sharing the pics and explaining the trigger set up. I've never seen a firearm that you could shoot at a deer at 200 yds (or more), turn and shoot at a squirrell, and then take a crack at a duck flying over, all with the correct ammo.


----------



## barneyrb (Mar 11, 2012)

I wanted to reply to the OP's question. I use a Sako finfire for small game with a 6x straight with a 42mm objective. I took this big game scope and sent it back to Leupold and had the paralex reset for 50 yards. They will do this free of charge and it works great. 42mm is plenty big and 6x is all I need for that range.


----------

