# Purchased a MS 261 - Bar question



## balassit (Jan 27, 2012)

I am a homeowner who always over-buys when it comes to power equipment. I look for tasks that create excuses for new "toys". Dropped the hammer today on the Stihl MS 261. My question is, I asked the dealer to put a 20" bar on the saw. When he brought it back to me, it has a 20" bar that says FARM BOSS. Is this bar the same as a standard E stihl bar or did the dealer pull one over on be. Don't like having to look at the logo when i bought a better saw than the farm boss, hope I can wear it off quick.

thanks in advance for any response.


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## ncvarmint (Jan 27, 2012)

I bought mine with a 18" rollomatic E bar, i would make them put the right bar on it. I think that farm boss bar is for the 290. You bought a pro saw and paid good money for it i am sure, so make them switch the bars out.
trevor


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## SawTroll (Jan 27, 2012)

As far as I know, it is the Rollomatic E, just marked Farm Boss for the FB saws.

A 20" is on the long side for a 50cc saw though.......


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## opinion (Jan 27, 2012)

It's the same bar and same cost, just with the wood or farm boss logo. I sometimes set up 261's with a farm boss bar just to mess with people. None have complained so far.


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## ncvarmint (Jan 27, 2012)

It may be the same bar, but i despise that FARM BOSS logo.
trevor


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## dwraisor (Jan 27, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> As far as I know, it is the Rollomatic E, just marked Farm Boss for the FB saws.
> 
> A 20" is on the long side for a 50cc saw though.......



I agree... 

and props to Troll for not telling the OP he should have bought brand X 

dw


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## saxman (Jan 27, 2012)

I think you would be happier on that saw with the 18" bar. I have that on mine it it handles it well and has good fore/aft balance. I can't speak to sideways balance. All I know is that it can sit upright by itself without falling over! You will love that saw

Steve


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## redoakneck (Jan 27, 2012)

The bars are the same, just make sure they didn't put that lame green label "safety" chain on it--it is safe because it don't cut.

The bar should be metal gray after 20 tanks or so. Turn it up-side-down if you don't like farmboss

A 20" bar should be fine as long as you don't bury it in hardwood and lean on her, let the saw pull itself through the wood.


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## JVLII (Jan 27, 2012)

Get the 18 and lose the farmboss...nice saw though


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## stihlrookie (Jan 27, 2012)

*Take it back*

Tell your dealer you want an ES super or ES light bar, for the same price. Its a pro saw and should come with a pro bar, not that green labeled kiddie bar. Good luck.


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## balassit (Jan 27, 2012)

Thanks for the responses. I think I may go back tomorrow and get the 18" bar put back on. I already own a smaller echo saw i won at a Ducks Unlimited dinner with a 14" bar and thought it would be nice to have the 20" bar on the new saw. Maybe 18" is the way to go. I want the saw to perform and don't want the bar to be a limiting factor.

PS - I made sure to get 26 RSC 81 chains thanks to reading to forums ahead of time. Can't wait to see this thing sling some wood.


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## SawTroll (Jan 27, 2012)

stihlrookie said:


> Tell your dealer you want an ES super or ES light bar, for the same price. Its a pro saw and should come with a pro bar, not that green labeled kiddie bar. Good luck.



The ES bars are too heavy on a 50cc saw, the E is a nice and light bar! :msp_smile:


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## jus2fat (Jan 27, 2012)

+1..what Sawtroll said..forget the ES bar..(too heavy)..go regular "E" bar..!!

J2F


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## stihlrookie (Jan 27, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> The ES bars are too heavy on a 50cc saw, the E is a nice and light bar! :msp_smile:





jus2fat said:


> +1..what Sawtroll said..forget the ES bar..(too heavy)..go regular "E" bar..!!
> 
> J2F



Yeah, thats what you want on a pro saw, a laminated, spot welded kiddie bar. The weight difference between the ES and the E is minimal at best, doubtful its even noticeable in 18". The durability of the ES bar more than compensates for the ounce or two difference. Cheers.


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## wolfcoln (Jan 27, 2012)

Congrads on the new saw. It is a great saw, but I would put a 18 back on it. I have an 18 on mine and it cuts great. The 20 is just a bit much for a 50 cc saw. The Farm Boss bar will fit without any problem but I would rather use something like a MS 361 to run a 20 inch Stihl suggests a 18 inch bar for the MS 261 for optimum cutting power.


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## SawTroll (Jan 27, 2012)

stihlrookie said:


> Yeah, thats what you want on a pro saw, a laminated, spot welded kiddie bar. The weight difference between the ES and the E is minimal at best, doubtful its even noticeable in 18". The durability of the ES bar more than compensates for the ounce or two difference. Cheers.



I would rather buy a new bar a little more often than carry the extra weigh at all times - the weight difference isn't that small, and the E hold up pretty well, unless you use it as a pry-bar.:msp_smile:


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## Farm Boy (Jan 27, 2012)

Unless you are a farmer, city slickers are not qualified to have a Farm Boss bar.


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## stihlrookie (Jan 27, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> I would rather buy a new bar a little more often than carry the extra weigh at all times - the weight difference isn't that small, and the E hold up pretty well, unless you use it as a pry-bar.:msp_smile:



I understand your point, however, and this is nothing against the homeowner OP, chances are the bar will get pinched and possibly even used as a lever, advantage ES. My point is, Stihl is selling a pro level saw and it should come with pro level equipment, safety chain aside. Cheers.


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## Bowtie (Jan 27, 2012)

I run a 16" Rollo ES 3/8 .063 on my 261. Love it! 16" buried in wood is plenty in hardwood. 20" for reach and softer wood may be fine.


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## indiansprings (Jan 27, 2012)

Run both mine with the 18" bar, 20" is pushing it. I'd have him put the 18" ES bar on the saw and go cut wood.


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## 2dogs (Jan 27, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> I would rather buy a new bar a little more often than carry the extra weigh at all times - the weight difference isn't that small, and the E hold up pretty well, unless you use it as a pry-bar.:msp_smile:



I agree with Troll here, the weight difference is sighificant. I like the E bar and also the Oregon ProLight for normal useage. On one 6 week, very sandy/silty job, I run a 20" hard nose bar on the MS260. (Most of the other saws run hard nose bars now too.) Talk about heavy, but it saves me from replacing the bar or nose every few days to 3 weeks. 

During the winter jobs the MS260 often has an 18" Cannon bar because I often am cutting wood on the edges of a burn pile. I run Cannon bars on my fire saws all summer.


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## deye223 (Jan 27, 2012)

stihlrookie said:


> Tell your dealer you want an ES super or ES light bar, for the same price. Its a pro saw and should come with a pro bar, not that green labeled kiddie bar. Good luck.



+1+2+3


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## 2dogs (Jan 27, 2012)

stihlrookie said:


> Tell your dealer you want an ES super or ES light bar, for the same price. Its a pro saw and should come with a pro bar, not that green labeled kiddie bar. Good luck.



How short is the ES Light made in these days?


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## deye223 (Jan 27, 2012)

2dogs said:


> How short is the ES Light made in these days?



28 (i think)


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## stihlrookie (Jan 27, 2012)

*You got me*



2dogs said:


> How short is the ES Light made in these days?



28" is the shortest, I retract my recommendation of the ES light, not suitable for the 261. Cheers.


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## ratso (Jan 27, 2012)

I have ran a 20"bar on my 260 since day one never had a problem.The 261 is supposed be a more powerful saw I see no reason not to run a 20"bar.


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## Brushwacker (Jan 27, 2012)

Way I see it, chainsaw is a tool to make my job easiar on me. If I was using an 261 for all around use, I'd go with 20" to save my back, as I have before with an 026 and 034. A few ounces to a pound or so have less of an effect on how much hurt or strain my body feels after several hours of work then an 18" bar does to my back in the same amount of time, so trying to make life easiar for the chainsaw isn't going to superceed making it easiar on me. If the 261 was being used as secondary saw using it more specifically for limbing , stump cutting or bucking elevated wood, wouldn't need to bend so much as it is cutting firewood , most which is lieing on the ground, so in that case a 16 or 18" would be desirable. 
If you only have 1 or 2 chainsaws for about another $60 you can have 2 bar set ups for the saw and switch according to conditions. Its also nice should you pinch your bar, you can remove the powerhead and put the other b&c on and cut out the pinched bar.


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## stihlrookie (Jan 28, 2012)

Brushwacker said:


> Way I see it, chainsaw is a tool to make my job easiar on me. If I was using an 261 for all around use, I'd go with 20" to save my back, as I have before with an 026 and 034. A few ounces to a pound or so have less of an effect on how much hurt or strain my body feels after several hours of work then an 18" bar does to my back in the same amount of time, so trying to make life easiar for the chainsaw isn't going to superceed making it easiar on me. If the 261 was being used as secondary saw using it more specifically for limbing , stump cutting or bucking elevated wood, wouldn't need to bend so much as it is cutting firewood , most which is lieing on the ground, so in that case a 16 or 18" would be desirable.
> *If you only have 1 or 2 chainsaws for about another $60 you can have 2 bar set ups for the saw and switch according to conditions. Its also nice should you pinch your bar, you can remove the powerhead and put the other b&c on and cut out the pinched bar*.



+1 

This would have saved me driving 40 miles last summer. I now have a spare bar and I always bring a comealong with me.


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## MCW (Jan 28, 2012)

Although I like the option of a replaceable tip the laminated, better quality bars cop a bad rap here as a rule.
Unless you somehow manage to do a nose sprocket in the E bars will last the same length of time as an ES bar. I have seen the old Farm Boss bars on Farm Boss saws cop a bigger hiding as a package than any other bar or saw combo doing the rounds 
Also the 261 may be happier with an 18" bar but they are no slouch with a 20" bar. You'll also like the fact that the 261 won't fall on it's side every time you look at it unlike a Husky 346XP  There is a reason why the clutch cover on these outboard clutched little Huskies always have the paint missing, it's called "sideways balance"!

NOTE: I sold my MS261 and kept my sideways clutched Husky 353...


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## SawTroll (Jan 28, 2012)

MCW said:


> Although I like the option of a replaceable tip the laminated, better quality bars cop a bad rap here as a rule.
> Unless you somehow manage to do a nose sprocket in the E bars will last the same length of time as an ES bar. I have seen the old Farm Boss bars on Farm Boss saws cop a bigger hiding as a package than any other bar or saw combo doing the rounds
> Also the 261 may be happier with an 18" bar but they are no slouch with a 20" bar. You'll also like the fact that the 261 won't fall on it's side every time you look at it unlike a Husky 346XP  There is a reason why the clutch cover on these outboard clutched little Huskies always have the paint missing, it's called "sideways balance"!
> 
> NOTE: I sold my MS261 and kept my sideways clutched Husky 353...



I like the outboard clutch Husky 50cc saws, as they handle a lot better than the inboard clutch Stihls and Dolmars, that also weights more. The MS261 is a lot bulkier as well. The 353 isn't bad at all, even though the NE346xp is a lot better for power. :msp_smile:


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## PEKS (Jan 28, 2012)

I run a 16" B&C on my 261, seems to be a good fit..


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## computeruser (Jan 28, 2012)

A quick bit of time with the random orbital sander and it won't say anything at all!

I agree with ST on the bar length, though we may not agree on what it ought to be instead. I think that saw would be at its peak with a 16" 3/8" setup; I find 3/8" easier to hand file without a guide than .325".


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## SawTroll (Jan 28, 2012)

dwraisor said:


> I agree...
> 
> and props to Troll for not telling the OP he should have bought brand X
> 
> dw



No reason to do that, when he already has made his choise! :msp_smile:


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## SawTroll (Jan 28, 2012)

computeruser said:


> A quick bit of time with the random orbital sander and it won't say anything at all!
> 
> I agree with ST on the bar length, though we may not agree on what it ought to be instead. I think that saw would be at its peak with a 16" 3/8" setup; I find 3/8" easier to hand file without a guide than .325".



I agree on 16", but not about 3/8" chain. I even find .325 chisel chain the easiest to file really well, and even find chisel chain much easier to really file right than semi-chisel, as it is easier to see what you actually are doing.


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## SawTroll (Jan 28, 2012)

ratso said:


> I have ran a 20"bar on my 260 since day one never had a problem.The 261 is supposed be a more powerful saw I see no reason not to run a 20"bar.



It is, specially compared to the demoted US 260, but going with the longest bar that is recommended usually means that you bought a too small saw! :msp_smile:


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## SawTroll (Jan 29, 2012)

SawTroll said:


> I agree on 16", but not about 3/8" chain. I even find .325 chisel chain the easiest to file really well, and even find chisel chain much easier to really file right than semi-chisel, as it is easier to see what you actually are doing.



Forgot to say, just "filing away" with some guide isn't the way to do it, you need to look closely at exactly what you are doing, and that surely is easiest with chisel chain - semi-chisel is a bit more tolerant about mistakes though, but I want to avoid mistakes anyway....

My wood is mostly clean and green birch, so my preferences may not fit all.


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## 2dogs (Jan 29, 2012)

Here is a picture of a pro set-up. This is me and my MS260 running a 36" bar in eucalyptus. This is a pro bar!


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## ratso (Jan 30, 2012)

*Huh*



SawTroll said:


> It is, specially compared to the demoted US 260, but going with the longest bar that is recommended usually means that you bought a too small saw! :msp_smile:



HUH

Please explain why the saw is to small for limbing pine tops


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## chopperfreak2k1 (Jan 30, 2012)

2dogs said:


> Here is a picture of a pro set-up. This is me and my MS260 running a 36" bar in eucalyptus. This is a pro bar!



thats a bad 260!


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## MCW (Jan 31, 2012)

2dogs said:


> Here is a picture of a pro set-up. This is me and my MS260 running a 36" bar in eucalyptus. This is a pro bar!



How did the oiler go? Good stuff from the little 260


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## J.W Younger (Jan 31, 2012)

balassit said:


> I am a homeowner who always over-buys when it comes to power equipment. I look for tasks that create excuses for new "toys". Dropped the hammer today on the Stihl MS 261. My question is, I asked the dealer to put a 20" bar on the saw. When he brought it back to me, it has a 20" bar that says FARM BOSS. Is this bar the same as a standard E stihl bar or did the dealer pull one over on be. Don't like having to look at the logo when i bought a better saw than the farm boss, hope I can wear it off quick.
> 
> thanks in advance for any response.


If you gave me both bars the solid es might be on it for selling purposes but the laminated would be the one I used.


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## Hitman30 (Jan 31, 2012)

My 261 wears a 20" bar and it has NO problem at all cutting with the tip burried in hardwood. In my opinion, start with the 20" bar and if feel as if you want more balance, buy a 16"er. My only problem/concern was the oil at MAX setting was a little on the lean side for that much chain and bar. I had to grind out a channel at the bar oiling port to really make me happy.


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## cuttingintime (Jan 31, 2012)

My back loves the 20 inch bar on the ms 260.


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