# Storm felling



## SWE#Kipp (Jun 22, 2006)

Here a little instruction movie on how to handle storm felled trees !
http://www.skogforsk.se/KunskapDirekt/default.aspx?p=11362&bmp=11727
Click at the link above and after that click at "Film för bredband" and "motorsågsarbete i stormskog"

It's in Swedish but i think you will get the most of it anyway ,,,

/Kristoffer


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## belgian (Jun 22, 2006)

SWE#Kipp said:


> Here a little instruction movie on how to handle storm felled trees !
> http://www.skogforsk.se/KunskapDirekt/default.aspx?p=11362&bmp=11727
> Click in the link and after that look at "Film för bredband" and "motorsågsarbete i stormskog"
> 
> ...



very instructive video. better than any manual.  
thanks
Roland


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## SpookHollow (Jun 22, 2006)

Wow, I am surprised any such instructional video exists. I have spent years of my life playing pick up sticks after monster tornados moved through Tennessee and Alabama. Probably will do it again and soon. If anyone needs to learn that stuff just come down here. Can hardly avoid it.

Y'all be safe up thar!


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## SWE#Kipp (Jun 23, 2006)

*Glad you liked it*

I'm glad if someone liked it, was reading about the tornado times in USA so I thought it could be useful for somebody with a little video 

be safe / Kristoffer


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## rmihalek (Jun 23, 2006)

Can you tell me what the guy was saying when he was drawing a circle with his wax pencil on the cut stem?


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## SWE#Kipp (Jun 23, 2006)

*Circle*

Yes, thats the part of the wood that you get payed for as a forest owner, if the wood is going for lumber and not pulp !

/Kristoffer


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## Reddog (Jun 25, 2006)

Thank you for posting this. Very well done and informative. Even though I do not understand Swedish.


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## smokechase II (Jun 27, 2006)

*updated*

SWE#Kipp:

I saw this earlier, about two months ago. (Thanks to your posting of the other video).
But this has been updated since.

I think most of those that deal with this sort of wind events fear the broken stems more than the over by the roots. The root wads are dangerous too; just that we've had more injuries and fatalities with the stems broken off from 10' to 40' up.

The video dealt with the root wad salvage more than broken stems.
Was this because that was what was most prevalent?
I've noticed some storms produce more of one or the other.

Kind of an odd little item.
The very end of the video showed an extreme leaner being cut with a v pattern, then a series of back-cuts.
It is somewhat similar to the Coos Bay cut. 
Same theory that was developed in two different worlds.


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## SWE#Kipp (Jun 27, 2006)

*Coos Bay cut ?*

Did a google search for "Coos Bay cut" but didn't find any on it ??
what does it look like ? , is like the "v-cut" or something different ?
In the film they show some cuts that release the tension in the stem away from you i think you can apply those methods in more than just lying trees, or what do you think !?!?

/Kristoffer


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## 046 (Jun 27, 2006)

very useful instructional video. 

even if it was in swedish. was able to gleem a ton of info. 
this video shows how to deal with leaners, showing proper method for a bore cut 

that strap used looked pretty useful for storm damage. where are those available?

we just had a mino tornado rip thru locally


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## SWE#Kipp (Jun 27, 2006)

*Strap*

You can use a strap with two loop in the ends of it and a timber hook, but the strap with the metal clip on is sold here buy husky and jred, but I think stihl also sells them over here, they are very useful you can twist down very large trees depending on how long stem you use for leverage !!

/Kristoffer


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## Ekka (Jun 27, 2006)

Maybe this link can help a few out?? And maybe not, just depends on your PC

http://www.skogforsk.se/info/film/kd/storm/fald-avv500.asx

Informative but I dunno, why wasn't that leaner right at the end felled using a bore and strap release cut?

That method shown with the "V" doesn't have a hinge and risks a barber chair .... this is something that is shown in the Husky manuals as well and was part of a vigourus debate amongst tree fallers.

Or is that the suggested method for the thin ones where there isn't enough meat to do a bore and strap release cut?


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## SWE#Kipp (Jun 27, 2006)

*Barber chair*

I don't think it will barber chair due to the relief cuts made, with the "v" method you get a tree that will fall to the ground slowly with good time for you to get safe, or thats the idea with it anyway, but you should not try if don't think it will work ,,,,
"You will not get the precision of a open face cut with "v-cut" , a thing to have in mind if you want to try it !!!!


/Kristoffer


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## 046 (Jun 27, 2006)

don't think that leaner used for example was large enough to do a plunge cut. 

slicing a V grove, then slowly cutting in would not be an ovious technique. 

has anyone else used this technique for smaller leaners?


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## smokechase II (Jun 27, 2006)

*coos bay cut*

Coos Bay:

Cut in at a right angle to the lean about 40-45% of the way in. (Might want to put in a wedge just snug to keep the kerf from closing.)
Do the same from the exact opposite side.
This leaves a bit of holding wood that is straight down the center that faces the lean.

The in from the back, gingerly.

Again, no face. Directional control wasn't a concern anyway.

But no hinge of any size to sponsor a barber chair split from.
I would think this feature would make a barber chair less likely than with the triangle shown in the video.

I've never even seen it done.
But it did make it into Gerry Beranek's book.

We get a few of these leaners from snow weight most years. Typically smaller diameter Lodgepole Pine that are similar to the tree shown for size. 
Guess I'm gonna have to try something new on those guys.
Just look what youy've got started.


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## RoosterBoy (Jun 27, 2006)

thanks so much for the video i loved it i watched them 4 times all ready. and went out yesterday and tried some of what i learned.

i wish someone on this site could make a nice chainsaw safety video and show some good cutting tricks. and post it online. i would love that.

thanks
Jason


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## Ekka (Jun 27, 2006)

Well I have all my chainsaw certs so I suppose I'm "authorised" to make a vid .... but it'll be boring wont it?

Like the key parts are starting, grip, stance and PPE.

What else do you want to see?


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## RoosterBoy (Jun 27, 2006)

hi Eric first i want to say thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us it's real nice of you

and a basic safety course on chain saws would be real helpful for people like me that are new to using them i bought 2 chain saws this year and went all out on safety gloves eye and hearing protection for cutting up firewood and would love to learn some nice cutting tricks for cutting logs on the ground so i don't hit the ground with my chain and wedge my saw 

after looking at your videos i tried some hinge cut that was fun.

i know your a real busy man but if you ever have the camera rolling and your cutting up logs show the Roosterboy how it's done down under ;-)

Thanks
Jason


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## SWE#Kipp (Jul 26, 2006)

**

Hehe !!
Bra att du gillade den !!!

/Kristoffer


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## computeruser (Jul 26, 2006)

Not that it hasn't been said before, but that was a good video. We do a fair bit of deadfall/storm cleanup in a nature preserve and I can think of a few guys who ought to watch that video so they'll stop getting their saws stuck or even crushed, or hurting themselves.

Thanks for sharing that!!


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## techdave (Aug 11, 2006)

*coos bay, how i used it*

Hi Eric and 'Chaser and rooster and everybody else:

I used the coos bay on a few burned leaners where I was worried about stump pull due to burned roots. 20 inch dbh, about 45 or 50 feet with rest of top broken off, most branches buned. probably Coulter Pine.I pretty much followed beranek.

Took about 1/3 off each side laving srip in middle holding tree. middle strip runs parallel to the natural lay/lean of the tree. I snugged a wedge on one side as slight breeze might make tree fall to that side. 

All set up to fall it, I then I bored from middle third back towards rear leving holding tab of about 4 inches at rear. So at his point all holding the tree up is about 7x7 piece of middle third of tree left intact at front (side towards lay) and 4 inch log piece of middle third at rear. Then I cut rear (release) tab from the backside in. 

Worked great, except did spin some due to no hinge and slight bow of tree. i was away on my safe route so i did not care about spin, burt I learned, neveer underestimate a pecker pole. 

if the tree was rotten inside it would have been scary or impossible for me but the fire got this one, not the beetles and the fire  . Next time I would leave little smaller piece at front. I snaps off up there and the sound aint pretty. Maybe that was why he veed his front in the video? 

My 56 k connection made for a small picture, I couldnt see too good.


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## techdave (Aug 11, 2006)

*Learning link for Joshua, et al, new to falling.*

Howdy all , especially joshua, here is a good interactive e-tool for safety basics. Very oversimplified but useful anyhow. HTH, Dave.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/mainpage.html


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## 65x55BPD (Aug 25, 2006)

that video was pretty informative. i think it may have been made just for me. i am in the business of storm tree cutting and my roomate is swedish so he'll be able to tell me what the hell that guy with the awesome mustache is saying


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## B-Edwards (Sep 1, 2006)

Thanks for the video. Never too old to learn new tricks (or at least perform them in a different maybe better, safer way). I did notice the orange saw the fellow was using also had some white paint . Isnt that like blasphamy to use that saw in Sweden?


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## SWE#Kipp (Sep 3, 2006)

B-Edwards said:


> I did notice the orange saw the fellow was using also had some white paint . Isnt that like blasphamy to use that saw in Sweden?



You are correct, and he did in fact got himself a nice little hanging for it


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## zzrjohn (Sep 3, 2006)

An excellent safety vid, apart from one part at 2.30 minutes in, the instructor started to bore into the trunk with the kick back area of the bar.

I admit that being unable to understand Swedish he may have made reference to this possible danger.

What do you all think?


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## smokechase II (Sep 3, 2006)

*kick back*

zzrjohn:

Yea I noticed that the first time I viewed this awhile back.
Note that he had no kickback or even the slightest indication of a kickback.

I'm pretty sure he is cutting spruce. A very very soft wood.
If the area you are cutting on a spruce is not under pressure, (compression wood), you can use the tip like he did and get away with it. *(I should have mentioned here earlier that a saw that is definitely sharp is also part of avoiding a kickback in a spruce type soft wood. But don't count on that, of course.)*

I would suggest that most cutters should stay away from this type of technique. It can get you into trouble if you stray with it to a harder wood.

One thing you can do to educate yourself a bit on kickback in different woods is to deliberately put the wrong part of the bar into a horizontal log.
1) Start with rotten wood,
2) All PPE,
3) Stand perfectly balanced,
4) Thumbs and both hands engaged, functioning chain brake.
5) Hold the saw where the bar is on a plane where it cannot come back at you,
6) Start with lower rpm's, put the tip incorrectly gingerly into the wood.
7) Up the rpm's a little and try again,
8) Go to stronger denser woods,
9) Stop before you get to dead, but still solid hardwoods. I.e. the worst case scenario.

Beginners should watch this as a demo from an experienced cutter.

If done cautiously, I think this can be a valuable learning drill for even many experienced cutters.

All the best.


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## FBX1986 (Sep 4, 2006)

*cool video*

thats one cool film wish i spoke swedish coos bay cut on page 309 of G.F. Beranek The Fundamentals of general tree work.


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