# Started my splitter build



## Eric K (Feb 11, 2014)

I have been wanting to build a splitter now for over a year now. So I started collecting pieces and parts. I have most of the components now. So here begins yet another splitter build. I will try to update this thread often with new pics as I get things machined, fabricated and welded. Suggestions welcome as I have never built a splitter before.


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## GreaseMnky85 (Feb 11, 2014)

youtube is great I have seen some really nice build on there


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## wndwlkr (Feb 12, 2014)

Looks like you've got some big iron to work with. Tell us more & don't hold back on the pics. opcorn:


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## Jakers (Feb 12, 2014)

opcorn: subscribed, i just love these builds


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## Eric K (Feb 12, 2014)

Ground out relief for welding mini wedge. My thoughts on the small wedge are it will keep log from slipping and initiate split before log hits main wedge.

Plated end of beam with a piece of 3/4". Ground in v-relief for weld penetration and ground smooth for wedge to be welded on.

Wedge welded on. Triple passed for strength. The wedge is 15" tall and the plate tacked to the back is for the sides of the wedge to weld to.

Welding plate to the back of the wedge. First of three passes per side.


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## Eric K (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for the replies and likes Jakers, wndwlkr, and greasemnky. I forgot to mention the beam I am using is a W8 40lbs a foot flanges are near 5/8" and webb is 1/2". Almost went bigger but with some gussets and plating it should do the trick. I hope.


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## wndwlkr (Feb 12, 2014)

Looks real good Eric. Are ya thinking about a log lift & work platform ? I like your wedge design.


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## nathon918 (Feb 12, 2014)

the beam is plenty heavy, i used the same beam... but i would be much more worried about ripping that wedge right off the beam! whats it about 14-16" tall? and only 6" deep? it should be atleast somewhat close to the same depth and height!! with that much height and nothing backing it you will definetly rip that wedge along with the chunk of the flange off...
if you had cut a slot in that beam and dropped the wedge "through" the beam that would have been fine , but not just welded to the flange...


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## Eric K (Feb 13, 2014)

I didn't think of slotting beam until wedge was all welded. Go figure. I will post some more pics tonight. I am pretty far into the wedge end and backing up would be pretty much a pain.


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## kyle1! (Feb 13, 2014)

What about just cutting some off the top of the wedge to not make it so tall?


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## jthornton (Feb 13, 2014)

Can't wait to see more...

JT


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## Eric K (Feb 13, 2014)

I am just going to suck it up and cut it off. That way it is more bullet proof lol.


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## nathon918 (Feb 13, 2014)

better to get it right now, then when its all done and painted...
mines 14" tall and 11" deep, i hard faced the cutting edge then ground it sharp, when i get a big knotty log on it, it will flex the beam a bit, i measured deflection and its only about .050" over 8ft and thats stalling the cylinder @ 3000psi, and it just springs back, i had a thread on here but it seems to have vanished...?
thinking you might not have that issue since you have that little starter wedge but your wedge is an inch taller than mine, so who knows?


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## Eric K (Feb 13, 2014)

Agreed it is better to back up now than later. I will post pictures of the surgery.


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## dave_dj1 (Feb 13, 2014)

Instead of cutting the wedge off you could back it up with another piece and weld that piece all the way down to the bottom of the beam.
Either way it looks like you're going to have a nice splitter.
dave


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## Eric K (Feb 13, 2014)

Thanks to all for the replies and advice.


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## Eric K (Feb 13, 2014)

Triple pass on inside of back plate to wedge.

Upright picture of back plate to wedge.

Side plates on tacked on.

Pic from the front.

Welding out the back plate to the side plates and sides to the wedge. LOL say that 3 times fast.

All welded out.

Mostly benched in. Starting to take shape.


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## Tiewire (Feb 13, 2014)

opcorn: I'm in.


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## nathon918 (Feb 13, 2014)

what are you running for shielding gas? C-25? straight CO-2?
welds look good, burned in nice...


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## Eric K (Feb 13, 2014)

Thanks Nathon I am using 75/25 argon/co2. Those welds should be burned in they were welded at 275 amps and 28-29 volts. Sizzling lol.


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## Eric K (Feb 13, 2014)

Main wedge all benched in and arm for 4 way and six way welded in place.


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## Eric K (Feb 13, 2014)

I am thinking that instead of reworking wedge that I could cut 4/6 way post and the 3/4" plate plate off. Then machine the tie plates off on the bottom of the post and then plate the post back into the web of the beam. I made 2 bosses that will be welded to the top of the wedge and post a 5/8"thick x 2 1/2" wide plate will go over these and tie them together. Do you think this would eliminate the possibility of tearing the wedge off??? The little starter wedge is centered at 7 1/2" my thinking is that by the time wood hits taller portion of wedge it will already be starting to pop open. Thanks in advance for input.

Making a rectangular tube with 3/4" plate for the 4/6 way wedge.

Tube welded and benched in.

Machining the wedges for the 4/6 way.

Wedges tacked on for fit.

View from the side.

From the front. With the 4/6 way all the way up you can split a 71/2" diameter piece in half. With it all the way down the bottom 2 are below beam and you can split 8"/10" diameter pieces 4 ways.


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## dave_dj1 (Feb 14, 2014)

Very nice. I envy you guys with those fancy grinders


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Yes they do make short work of things.


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## jthornton (Feb 14, 2014)

Very nice work!

JT


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## muddstopper (Feb 14, 2014)

I think your main wedge will be fine, but I have concerns about your adjustable 6way. It appears you just capped the hbeam and then welded the slide bar for your adjustable wedge directly to the cap. I am thinking that with some knarly wood, you might rip the adjustable wedge off. Do you have plans to add extra reinforcement in this area? Maybe tie the slide bar to the main wedge at the top.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Thanks Jt. I want this to look good and I will take the time necessary to get there. I like your splitter build as well. No bending!!!!


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## stltreedr (Feb 14, 2014)

I would be slightly concerned with the adjustable 6 way as well. The tendency, for me at least, was to put the baddest stuff on it to see what it would do. Well, an elm knot twisted my 1 1/4" solid steel wedge into an "s" shape. I'm running around 32 tons. Don't underestimate how powerful it is and how tough some wood is. 
If you can have the self-restraint to not try dumb stuff, and don't let anyone else borrow it, you may be just fine. Or, if you only split pristine white oak. 

Not a splitter expert, but did build one with help from guys on here.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Yep agreed mudstopper going to start surgery later today an fix my oversight lol. I got a little ahead of myself now I am going to back up and get it right.


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## muddstopper (Feb 14, 2014)

Redoing is a lot harder than doing it right the first time for sure. Personally I would consider adding some heavy bar stock to each side of the hbeam and then sandwiching the slide bar between the barstock. I used 3/4 plate on each side of the web, capped the upper flange with 1/2 plate, and then boxed the end of the hbeam with 6in channel.I have a 5in cyl and a adjustable 6way blade and I can tell you for a fact, you will see the beam flex under big knarly stuff. The way your current setup is, I dont think it would last me a day with the wood i usually split.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Well it has begun. The slide for the adjustable wedges is off.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

More to come stay tuned lol.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

My plasma gouging tip is getting it done.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

A little grinder work and I will be back to square one.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Going to make short work of this.


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## muddstopper (Feb 14, 2014)

Eric K said:


> A little grinder work and I will be back to square one.


 Now, add some plate to each side of the web and run it back as far as money will permit. Then sandwich your slide between that plate. I used 3/4 plate on mine and ran it about 2ft down each side of the web. While it hasnt broken or bent, I can see lots of flexing with those big 6way splits. If I had it to do over, i would have ran the plate all the way from end to end of the hbeam, or at least as far back as the pusher returns. I thought my splitter beam would have been more than adequant, and for a 4way or single split, it would be considered overbuilt. I never saw any flex until I added the 6way and I am wanting to go to an 8way, so I have located another Hbeam and will be redoing the entire machine this summer. You are starting out with a 6way so dont skip on the overbuilding now, you could pay for later if you do.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Sounds good mudstopper. Did you run your wedge thru the beam down to the bottom flange?


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Short work of that. Getting back on track in a hurry.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Other side machining complete.


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## Eric K (Feb 14, 2014)

Not to shabby for hacking it apart. Would have been better if I would have done it right 1st. Oh well log splitter lesson one.


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## nathon918 (Feb 14, 2014)

Eric K said:


> My plasma gouging tip is getting it done.


 what are ya running for a plasma? i only run Hypertherm's , they gouge damn good too, lot nicer than air arc...


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## Gavman (Feb 14, 2014)

nice work buddy, looking forward to seeing the rest of the build


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## muddstopper (Feb 15, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Sounds good mudstopper. Did you run your wedge thru the beam down to the bottom flange?


My design is a little different than yours. You have a spreader type wedge welded to you hbeam on the top flange and than another post mounted on the end of you hbeam that you wings are mounted on. My wedge is a straight piece of 3/4 flat plate that does pass thru the hbeam, but is not welded to the hbeam. My wings are welded to that same piece of plate. Where are design is similar is that I attached another piece of 3/4plate to the end of the hbeam. I used more plate that I ran down the web and on each side of the upright plate to keep it from breaking it off under pressure. My wedge is lifted up and down from the bottom using a hydraulic cylinder and the plate i welded to the end of the hbeam is the support that is pushed against. At one time I had a picture posted, but I guess it got lost with everybodies elses


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## muddstopper (Feb 15, 2014)

heres a couple of pic


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Thanks muddstopper for the pics exactly what I was thinking plating sides of wedge slide to the web of the beam then box it all in.


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Thanks Gavman I see you are out in BC. Some of the best of everything the earth has to offer Beautiful country.


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## muddstopper (Feb 15, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Thanks muddstopper for the pics exactly what I was thinking plating sides of wedge slide to the web of the beam then box it all in.


I really thought what I built was overkill, but doing 6way splits, Its barely adequant. Most splits it works fine, but get one of those large dia rounds with a couple of knots and it will make you wince watching the beam flex. It hasnt bent yet, and nothing has broke, but you know in your gut its only a matter of time.
You will noticed i also plated the top flange of the hbeam where the pusher slides. I used 1/2in plate for this. I think you might also consider this type of plateing to prevent the flanges of your hbeam bending. I have seen several splitters that use gussets between the web and flange for the same purpose and this seems to work well also. I guess since you are still in the building process, I think I would try to incorporate the extra plate as well as the gussets. You might not need it, but it easier to do now than have to do later.


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Nathon I too am a Hypertherm fan I am running the Powermax 105 480/3 phase. Sweet machine.

I think that you said you ran wedge thru beam whats your opinion on mine. I am at a point where I can plate the wedge slide post and move forward or cut wedge off machine up a new one run it thru the beam and move forward.

I am 50/50. I feel that with the two tied together at the top I should be fine.

Throw out your thoughts which ever way it is getting done today. LOL


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## muddstopper (Feb 15, 2014)

Eric, I think your main wedge will be fine, The way you mounted the center blade and then welded the spreaders, they should act as gussets. I think notching the flange and dropping the wedge into the beam would have been better, but i would only change it now if it makes you feel better. Most of the pressure on your beam is going to be in your additional 6way. If you plate the wedge slide post and run the plateing far enough up the web of the beam to distribute the load, and then tie it together at the top of the main wedge, It should do the job. While i do still see a lot of flex in my beam, My wedge is 25in tall fully extended, thats about 10inches taller than what you have planned


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## nathon918 (Feb 15, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Nathon I too am a Hypertherm fan I am running the Powermax 105 480/3 phase. Sweet machine.
> 
> I think that you said you ran wedge thru beam whats your opinion on mine. I am at a point where I can plate the wedge slide post and move forward or cut wedge off machine up a new one run it thru the beam and move forward.
> 
> ...


 i didnt run mine through the beam, i just suggested it to you since youre wedge isnt very deep, but tall enough to have enough leverage to tear the base material (beam) 
mines 11" deep x 14" tall it gives me plenty of area to weld to, heres mine...
on my cylinder mount i did run my plates through the top flange all the way to the bottom flange, because it was only 3/4 x 8 material, probably wayy overkill but its better than not being strong enough...


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## muddstopper (Feb 15, 2014)

another pic of plate before boxing the hbeam. and a pic of my pusher plate, it is 17inches tall made with 1in plate I dont have a pic of the rear cylinder mount, but if you look at the hbeam under my cylinder, you can see the end of the plateing I did to re-enforce the mount. My hbeam was actually to short to begin with so my cyl mount is added to the end of the hbeam and not to the top. It is mounted the same as my wedge backing plate, welded to the end of hbeam and sanwiched between 3/4in plate


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Thanks for the pics. Nice splitters to both of you. Because my slide post is 2" thick I'm going to plate web with 7/8"x7" and then I can use 7/8"x6" on top of that to plate the post.


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Going back together I welded 4/6 way slide post to the web of the beam. Then I am going to plate web with the piece of 3/4x7". Lastly I will plate the 3/4x5" over the sides of slide post. I think that should do.


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.


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## muddstopper (Feb 15, 2014)

That should do it.opcorn: Waiting on more pics


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Decided May as well plug weld center plate and bumped outer plate to 7/8"x6"


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Getting ready to weld it together.


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## Eric K (Feb 15, 2014)

Plugs are welded and the bottom flange to the plate. The bottom flange pulled about a 1/16" as I figured it would. Now I'm going to tack in second plate and tack in gussets to control top flange. It needs to stay put where if is. I will also clamp a heavy plate to top flange while welding out and it will stay in place till all is cooled.


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## muddstopper (Feb 15, 2014)

My flange pulled also when i was welding in the plate. I stitched welded alternating side to side and then back stepped the welds to fill them in. I also welded my top flange plateing before doing the web. This kept things reasonably straight. When ever I would notice any warping, I just flipped the beam over and would weld on the other side to pull it back in place


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## Eric K (Feb 16, 2014)

Overlayed the 3/4"x7"x17" with a piece of 7/8"x6"x16". I am feel this will give me the strength needed.


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## muddstopper (Feb 16, 2014)

Well shoot,now I ran out of things to nitpick about.

You do realize you are going to need to something similar on the cylinder mount end of the Hbeam as well.


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## Eric K (Feb 17, 2014)

Added a gusset at the end of the beam and one under front edge of main wedge. Then full welded the 3/4"x7" plate to the top flange between gussets. This kept the flange from warping. 




Then added a 3/4" plate between gussets this is where my out feed table will connect.


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## Eric K (Feb 17, 2014)

I can make the out feed table removable or fixed. What do you guys think? I have some 2 1/2" sq tube that 2" slips into real good fit. Or I can just come off those side plates with 2" welded right to them. Behind the 4/6 way cylinder I am planning on putting a stabilizer foot that will drop down and the grate will be 1/4" x 1 1/2" angle. I don't think that I would ever take that table off other than to store it but not really necessary for that either.


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## hedge hog (Feb 18, 2014)

make the table slide off because it will give you better access to your log lift or any repairs down the road.


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## Eric K (Feb 20, 2014)

Good point hedge hog.


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## hedge hog (Feb 20, 2014)

a buddy of mine has a big table on his and we had to cut part of table off to get access to add a log lift .
welded it back on ran for a month and the pump went out so we had to cut another part of the table out to get access to get another pump on.
it caused a lot more down time !


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## Eric K (Feb 20, 2014)

The out feed table is going to be removable but will be heavy. I'm thinking it will be 40" wide and be 32" long beyond the adjustable wedge post. Watched quite a few videos of splitters with 4/6 ways and all have some wood fall cause they seem narrow and short. I do realize the shortness may be because they are splitting into a conveyor but I will not be for now. Thanks for the input.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Side of push block on cylinder. 




Threaded bar 1x1 for under beam flange to hold push block down.




Sides welded to push block and hold down bars fitted.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Push block top view surface ground perfectly flat. It is 10"wide x15"long 1" thick. 




Upright portion with buttons that I turned tacked in place with the tig made the buttons out of 4140 steel they be hard after weld but not brittle. They should do a good job of keeping log from slipping.




Buttons all tig welded up. Upright will be welded to top of base it is 1 1/4" thick x 10"wide x 12" tall. When welded onto base will be 13" total height.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Upright tacked to base. 




Another view. 




1" thick gusset and mounting point for cross tube on cylinder. 




Left and right gussets with bushings welded up. 




Boring ID for pin.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Gussets tacked in place with pin for alignment. 




Side brace to make it all work together. 




Both side braces tacked in place. They are 3/4" x 2 1/2" bar. They will be welded to gussets on the angle top and bottom I thought by having them tied together it would be very strong. A lot of heavy steel here.




Another view.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Plates for rear of cylinder. They are 6"x10"x 7/8". 




Top view. 




Side view. 




V-grooved for penetration. 




Welded up. 




All cleaned up. 




Added a gusset in the center. 




All welded out triple pass on all. 




View from front. 




Good heat marks super weld penetration. 




Close area in between gussets with 1/2" plate. 




Gussets tying beam flanges together and over plated rear support to bottom flange. Being boxed in this should be very strong.


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## wndwlkr (Feb 22, 2014)

That all looks super heavy duty !! Nice work.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Thank you!! I feel a lot better about reworking the slide post.


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## hedge hog (Feb 22, 2014)

nice job, TIG is the way to go if you have the patients .
ran one for several years but can't find one I can afford other than a air cooled and I don't like them.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Water cooled only way to go. I love the Miller dynasty 350. It is a sweet machine.


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## Dan_IN_MN (Feb 22, 2014)

Eric

You're doing a very nice job on that splitter. Will this be your first splitter or have you owned others? Will this be for production or just for your own wood?

Looks like you have a well equipped shop. Is this a hobby shop or your bread and butter?

I posted this wedge design before. Thought I'd share it again. Looks simular to yours.
I might modify my wedge to this design.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

I think I have seen that on one of the commercial made splitters. Looks like it would keep splitting forces down low on a tall wedge. The splitter I am building will be for my personal use I have a huskee 22 ton??? It has been good to me but is s l o o o o w.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Oh this is my bread and butter. Can't get enough of machining and fabricating. Just love working with steel.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2014)

Bottom mount for adjustable 4/6 way cylinder. 




Just used a piece of 1/2" angle and plated sides. Quick and easy. 




Used a piece of angle plated for the top mount also.


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## colson04 (Feb 23, 2014)

What kind of tonnage are you sizing this splitter at? Looks pretty damn heavy duty and pretty good sized splitting cylinder too.

What are the specs on the motor/cylinder/tonnage for this build?


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## Eric K (Feb 23, 2014)

I am putting a 20 hp Kawasaki liquid cooled on it. Going with a Barnes 28 gpm 2 stage pump. Prince auto cycle valve for splitting cylinder and prince valves for log and wedge lift. The splitting cylinder is a welded Prince gladiator cross tube 5" bore 24" stroke and the rod is 3". This should be a true 29 tons at 3000psi. Complete cycle time full extend to complete retract should be 7.5 seconds. I am building my own hydraulic tank gross capacity is 41 gallons I will run 35 gallons. For the fuel tank I'm going to build that out of stainless I have some 11ga. plate.


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## Time's Standing Stihl (Feb 23, 2014)

Very talented work. Can't wait to see this project finished!


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## Eric K (Feb 23, 2014)

Thanks Stihl!! I am looking forward to firing it up. It will make quick work out of splitting hopefully.


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## colson04 (Feb 23, 2014)

Time's Standing Stihl said:


> Very talented work. Can't wait to see this project finished!



Same here. This thing is gonna rip right through anything thrown in front of it. Serious duty and very robust design.


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## Eric K (Feb 23, 2014)

Clamped a 1" plate to the top flange before welding to keep the flange from curling down. I Let it cool completely before removing clamps and it worked as planned. Very very minimal warping.


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## Eric K (Feb 23, 2014)

Top view of the out feed bark and junk separator grate. There will be a 1/4" x 12" x 40" plate on each side. The plates will be angled out at 30 degrees. 




Different angle




The stabilizer foot for the log lift will drop thru here.


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## Eric K (Feb 28, 2014)

Started to machine the plates that the sealed wheel bearings will bolt to. I am using a rear hub assembly for a saturn car. These will work well and if they go bad 4 bolts and put a new one on. 




Got em all done. 




The hubs fit well. These plates will be welded to a 3"axle tube. The axle with the hubs bolted on will put the tires 5'8" center to center.


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## Eric K (Feb 28, 2014)

On top of the axle I am going to weld up a 9 1/4" riser. This will give me 31" to the top of the beam.


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## Jakers (Feb 28, 2014)

beautiful work. im just sitting here and eating it all up. love to see skill turning out quality work


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## Eric K (Mar 1, 2014)

Thank you Jakers.


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## Eric K (Mar 1, 2014)

Plates welded to the axle tube. I used 3"x 3" 11ga. wall for the axle. Little overkill but have a bunch of it.




Got the riser welded to the top if the axle. I used 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" tube for the riser. Gave me a good place to lay a nice fillet weld around.




Picked up a couple used saturn rims at the salvage yard for $25. They were in good shape but I went ahead and sandblasted them and had a buddy paint them.




It is on wheels and has a tongue and coupler. 





Shot from the side. It is heavy to the wedge end right now but I calculated all the components that will be added in front of the axle and came up right about 800 lbs. that should offset the rear and give me some tongue weight so it tows nice.


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## Eric K (Mar 1, 2014)

From the coupler to the end of the out feed table it's measures 145" (12'1").


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## nathon918 (Mar 2, 2014)

hope them hub assemblies hold up, thats alot if weight for an unsprung axle... not so much as a static load but when towing it and the whole splitter bounces, causes a big shock load to those hubs, where as a springs will take that up.
wouldnt be as concerned if it had typical spindles/tapered roller bearing hubs and the spindle would just bend, unlike hub assemblies that usually just snap off.
i have 3500# spindles on mine, and watching it bounce over rough roads makes me wish i put 7000# spindles on it, it weighs somewhere around 2800-3000# i havent seen any bending yet, but ive only towed it twice...


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## ttyR2 (Mar 2, 2014)

If you have that much engine running the pump, why go with a 2 stage? Just means it will slow down even though you have enough engine to go through tough stuff. Anything over 18HP and I'd stick with a single stage. It's mechanically more simple as well.


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## nathon918 (Mar 2, 2014)

ttyR2 said:


> If you have that much engine running the pump, why go with a 2 stage? Just means it will slow down even though you have enough engine to go through tough stuff. Anything over 18HP and I'd stick with a single stage. It's mechanically more simple as well.


single stage he'd be limiting himslef to about 10 GPM now he could lower his relief pressure and gain a few more gpm but i dont see much value in that. rule of thumb is 1/2 gpm to every HP, it varies on system pressure though, typical 3000 psi system is right around that just slightly less than 1/2 gpm per hp.
now when going diesel thats a totally different story, thats when torque values need to be factored in...
id stick with the 2 stage!
they can be adjusted to your specific engine, so they kick into the high pressure side when your engine actually starts to bog down, that way you can put that 20hp to good use.


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## Eric K (Mar 2, 2014)

I almost went with a torsion axle. Did you use springs on your build? I am going to stick with the 28 gpm 2 stage. Like Nathon said I will adjust the high pressure to the engine.


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## Eric K (Mar 2, 2014)

I only need to tow this unit 10 miles round trip most of the time. If the hubs don't hold up I will put a torsion axle under it.


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## muddstopper (Mar 2, 2014)

Eric K said:


> I am putting a 20 hp Kawasaki liquid cooled on it. Going with a Barnes 28 gpm 2 stage pump. Prince auto cycle valve for splitting cylinder and prince valves for log and wedge lift. The splitting cylinder is a welded Prince gladiator cross tube 5" bore 24" stroke and the rod is 3". This should be a true 29 tons at 3000psi. Complete cycle time full extend to complete retract should be 7.5 seconds. I am building my own hydraulic tank gross capacity is 41 gallons I will run 35 gallons. For the fuel tank I'm going to build that out of stainless I have some 11ga. plate.



My splitter also has the 28gpm 2stage pump and a 25hp kholer engine and the same 5in cylinder. Actual cycle times are 12sec. With the 6way wedge, you will find the pump spends a little more time in the low flow/high pressure mode and will reduce your cycle times. Another limiting factor will be the autocycle valve itself. It is only rated for 25gpm flow. In retract mode, you pump will be in the low pressure/ high flow mode of 28gpm, but the oil returning from the cylinder to tank will be flowing much more than 28gpm going back to tank. I have to run my engine at a low rpm to prevent excessive heat build up in the oil. To get the best possible cycle times out of your setup, I might suggest you add a dump valve between cylinder and tank to divert the oil directly to tank and not have to run it thru your autocycle valve. I plan on rigging something of this nature on my machine and believe it will speed up my cycle times as well as help keep the oil cool.


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## nathon918 (Mar 2, 2014)

Eric K said:


> I almost went with a torsion axle. Did you use springs on your build? I am going to stick with the 28 gpm 2 stage. Like Nathon said I will adjust the high pressure to the engine.


 no mines solid, my axle is 4" x 1/2" wall square tube with the spindles welded to the tube.


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## Eric K (Mar 2, 2014)

I was more concerned about having a solid platform when using the log lift. Didn't want it bouncing.


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## Eric K (Mar 2, 2014)

Mudstopper I am using a dump from splitez splitters. I am up sizing all lines, suction , and return. No 90's should keep the heat down plus having 35 gallons of hydraulic will help hope I'm on the right track.


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## nathon918 (Mar 2, 2014)

Eric K said:


> I was more concerned about having a solid platform when using the log lift. Didn't want it bouncing.


 yup thats what i wanted too, i didnt want to have to deal with stablizer legs and the like... i think it would be fine as long as you dont fly down rough roads.


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## muddstopper (Mar 2, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Mudstopper I am using a dump from splitez splitters. I am up sizing all lines, suction , and return. No 90's should keep the heat down plus having 35 gallons of hydraulic will help hope I'm on the right track.



You get your pump from splitez also, It seems they have some pretty good prices. 
I used 3/4hoses all the way thru on my machine. I dont have a autocycle valve, just a regular splitter valve. My tank is on the small size, 15gal cap. Tank size will help a bunch with cooling, and the dump valve will help with speed. Yea, I think your on the right track


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## Oliver1655 (Mar 2, 2014)

Eric, I used a 7,000 lb mobile home axle, springs with 8 ply tires. There is a 5' spacing between the springs. The tongue goes under the out-feed tables. I do not have any other stabilizers & it is stable while the log lift is in use. I also use the log lift for a staging table so it has quite a bit of weight on it. This is a normal load in the photo.


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## Eric K (Mar 2, 2014)

Looks real good Oliver. Down the road if I have problems with my hubs I will change to a torsion axle. I think the hubs I used will hold up though. If you look at post #88 in the second pic the hub fits into that counter bore. It goes in there .550 and it has a two thousandths clearance. So it is supporting the weight and the bolts basically hold it in place.


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## Eric K (Mar 2, 2014)

Mudstopper picked up parts from both. Customer service is excellent from both.


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## Oliver1655 (Mar 2, 2014)

I agree you shouldn't have any problems. 

This info was to help others who are considering building a splitter. You are going to have an amazing splitter when you are done!


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## Eric K (Mar 2, 2014)

Thanks Oliver !!! There are so many ways to do things and having never built one it is easy to start thinking oh I should have I done this or that. Lol !!!!!! My one major mess up was back in post # 31 when I had do some rework. The other thing is I need to slow down a little I get to hurrying. I am at 81hours now in this build. I plan during the week and jam on Saturday and part of Sunday. Thanks to all who have commented and given advice and shared their successes and failures. Sure does help a bunch.


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## nathon918 (Mar 3, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Looks real good Oliver. Down the road if I have problems with my hubs I will change to a torsion axle. I think the hubs I used will hold up though. If you look at post #88 in the second pic the hub fits into that counter bore. It goes in there .550 and it has a two thousandths clearance. So it is supporting the weight and the bolts basically hold it in place.


 the issue with that type of hub is not the mount to the axle, its the bearings, usually if it goes bad, and you dont catch it in time, the bearings fall apart and the spindle can fall right out of the housing, and thats even more of an issue if their overloaded. those are one of the worst things to happen to cars/trucks.
they are almost always rusted to the knuckle or axle, and have to be pressed, or beaten out, if theyre loose, they need to be replaced, they cant be adjusted, i hate the damn things. tapered roller bearing spindles and hubs are soo much stronger and last alot longer, and cheap and easy to fix.
i have em on the front axle of my dodge 3500 diesel, as soon as they go, its getting free spin hubs, with manual lock in's, and ill never need to replace the bearings again...


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## jthornton (Mar 5, 2014)

I used a Dodge K car rear axle with trailer springs. I have stabilizer jacks for the rear when splitting so it doesn't wobble.






JT


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## ttyR2 (Mar 5, 2014)

Might look in to regenerative valves as well for faster cycling.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Mar 5, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Mudstopper I am using a dump from splitez splitters. I am up sizing all lines, suction , and return. No 90's should keep the heat down plus having 35 gallons of hydraulic will help hope I'm on the right track.



I have basically the exact set up you are planning on and have no heat problems. Using 3/4 lines, dump valve and long sweep 90's when it has to be done. Plan your layout to avoid as many as possible on the pressure side of things. James at Splitez is the best!


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## Eric K (Mar 5, 2014)

Jt does that K car axle have spindles or a do they use sealed wheel bearings


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## Eric K (Mar 5, 2014)

Kevin you are correct James certainly is.


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## timbrjackrussel (Mar 6, 2014)

Eric K said:


> I only need to tow this unit 10 miles round trip most of the time. If the hubs don't hold up I will put a torsion axle under it.


Just let some air out of the tires to smooth out the bumps. I have a heavy splitter with no springs and run about 10-15 PSI.


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## jthornton (Mar 7, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Jt does that K car axle have spindles or a do they use sealed wheel bearings


I'm not sure I just unbolted the spindle from the axle when I shortened it. I do remember pressing the brake drums off as I didn't need them.

JT


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## triptester (Mar 7, 2014)

The K car axles have spindles with replaceable bearings.


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## Eric K (Mar 7, 2014)

Good to know thanks


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## Eric K (Mar 9, 2014)

Side plates installed. 




View from the side. 




Log lift and cylinder mounts tacked in place. I am going to put some plate on it. Just waiting for the cylinder to make sure no changes are needed. 




Another view of the lift.


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## Eric K (Mar 9, 2014)

View from the drivers seat. The shiny spot on beam is where I had to remove a high spot from weld warp.


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## Eric K (Mar 9, 2014)

Log lift from front.


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## nathon918 (Mar 9, 2014)

just something to think about, 
the log lift mounts, having it the way it is now, can cause the holes/pins to wear rather fast.
you may want to think about adding a bushing to the lift mount, and also the "arm" (something like you added to your push plate for the pin) just gives the pin more surface area to wear on, would also be a good idea to drill em for grease fittings...
everything that moves on mine is greaseable (lift mounts/cylinder mounts, push plate, front leg, table mount and lock) the lift would be the most important to me to be greaseable since it gets used alot...


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## Eric K (Mar 14, 2014)

nathon good point. The pins that the log lift will pivot on are 3/4" and they go thru a 954 alloy bronze sleeve that is press fit. There are 2 sleeves per pivot point. The grease zirk is tapped into end of pin and cross drilled center of each sleeve. I put spiral grease grooves in each sleeve. My thoughts are the bronze is sacraficial and will need to be replaced periodically. The sleeves are common size and cheap couple bucks a piece. Better than rebuilding mounting points down the road. The cylinder mounts are done the same way except only 2 sleeves and the pins are 1". I didn't put grease fittings on my push block because I was thinking it would make a mess on me and wood. LOL You put them on you push block how is the grease situation on beam for you? I can add them easy enough. The cross pins on other 2 cylinders have grease fittings.


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## nathon918 (Mar 14, 2014)

i only grease the bottom of the slide, (under side of the beam) since the "keepers" are only 1-1/2" wide there isnt much contact area with the beam, so i just grease there to keep from wearing the ends of the flange/keepers...
nice setup for the lift mounts...
my mount bracket is a clevis type just out of A-36, the lift arms have bushings out of 4130 chromoly 3/8"wall DOM tube reamed to 1" ID, with a softer 1" 1018 pin also grooved for grease, with grease through the end of the pin. my pins are attached to the clevis bracket to keep from spinning in the bracket, so idealy only the pins should wear, then just make new ones when they get sloppy.


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## jthornton (Mar 15, 2014)

nathon918 said:


> i only grease the bottom of the slide, (under side of the beam) since the "keepers" are only 1-1/2" wide there isn't much contact area with the beam, so i just grease there to keep from wearing the ends of the flange/keepers...
> nice setup for the lift mounts...
> my mount bracket is a clevis type just out of A-36, the lift arms have bushings out of 4130 chromoly 3/8"wall DOM tube reamed to 1" ID, with a softer 1" 1018 pin also grooved for grease, with grease through the end of the pin. my pins are attached to the clevis bracket to keep from spinning in the bracket, so ideally only the pins should wear, then just make new ones when they get sloppy.



Very nice work!

JT


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## Eric K (Mar 15, 2014)

Nic job on your log lift nathon. I almost went with hard sleeve and replace pins route also. Either way works good to protect high use pivots. My pin will be held in place same as yours. Will add grease to bottom of keepers.


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## Eric K (Mar 15, 2014)

Thanks Jt


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## Eric K (Apr 26, 2014)

Going to get back to work on my splitter. Maple syrup season is over so I will have time again. I am to the point of building the hydraulic tank. What do you all think of putting the return weld bung down near the bottom of the tank. I have seen them at or near the top but then use a pipe to take it down near the bottom to prevent foaming. Is one way better than the other? Inside the tank I plan on welding in a diffuser to slow the returning fluid down and there will be a baffle between return and suction. Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## jthornton (Apr 27, 2014)

I took a bit of angle and drilled some holes near the bottom with about twice the area of the return to slow down the velocity of the fluid and put the holes near the bottom. A photo is worth a 1000 words...





I need to get back to work on my splitter and finish the lift...
JT


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## Eric K (Apr 27, 2014)

Thanks for the pic. I am making mine very similar.


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## triptester (Apr 29, 2014)

The benefit of the return at the top of the tank is that the filter can be changed with minimal fluid loss.


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## shutup-n-cut (Apr 29, 2014)

looking very nice. You have some nice fabrication skills and nice looking welds.
Uncle Mustache would be jealous , LOL


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## jthornton (Apr 29, 2014)

A couple of things I learned making the tank, make sure you remove the mill scale before welding and leave a 1/4" ledge to weld to on the tank sides as 3/16" is cutting it too close.

JT


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## Eric K (Jul 13, 2014)

Built in diffuser for return lines. 





Holes for 1 1/4" weld in bungs. 





Hole for 3" suction strainer.


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## Eric K (Jul 13, 2014)

Holes for fluid level and temp. 





Baffle down the center. Return and suction are on same end of tank with the baffle between. 





Removable inspection cover.


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## Eric K (Sep 16, 2014)

Tank is all tacked up ready to weld.


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## Eric K (Sep 16, 2014)

Bosses welded on to tie adjustable wedge post to main wedge. 





Tie plate made and installed. 





Platform for valves, return manifold, filter bracket, and hydraulic tank.


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## Eric K (Sep 16, 2014)

Trailer jack wheel installed.


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## jthornton (Sep 17, 2014)

That's looking awesome!

JT


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## jags (Sep 17, 2014)

I'm not sure the platform for the jack wheel is gonna be strong enough.
You do nice, nice.


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## Eric K (Sep 22, 2014)

Getting holes drilled to mount hydraulic tank. 





Engine mounted and pump coupled to it. 





I have a near perfect fit. Shafts are concentric within a thousandth.


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## Eric K (Sep 22, 2014)

Getting excited I want to fire this beast up.


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## iowa (Sep 22, 2014)

Dude. Very nice craftsmanship!!! REALLY nice splitter you have going there sir!


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## jthornton (Sep 23, 2014)

Looking good, I love my mini mag drill... I can't wait to see some wood chips laying about.

JT


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## Eric K (Sep 23, 2014)

Same here JT. I have Some 36 inch red Oak around to give it a test.


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## Eric K (Sep 23, 2014)

Give me some opinions on fuel tanks. I am thinking either fab one up out of stainless or buy a 6 gal polyethylene plastic one from US plastics.


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## iowa (Sep 23, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Give me some opinions on fuel tanks. I am thinking either fab one up out of stainless or buy a 6 gal polyethylene plastic one from US plastics.


Let me know what you go with. I need to figure out the same thing!


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## jags (Sep 23, 2014)

Hmmm...will the stainless have anymore problem with condensation that the poly tank? I don't really know the answer so I throw that out to the masses.


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## jthornton (Sep 23, 2014)

Some interesting reading on condensate in fuel tanks.

http://www.seasidemarinesurveyors.com/uploads/Condensation in your fuel tanks.pdf

I keep my tanks full of fuel...

JT


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## Oliver1655 (Sep 23, 2014)

I had an 11hp engine on my splitter & used maybe 3.5 - 4 gallons in a long day of splitting. That engine had a catastrophic failure & there is now a 13 hp engine on the splitter. It may use 5-6 gallons in a long day's worth of splitting. 

If the 6 gallon Poly tank will meet your needs & the space available, I would imagine it will be the most cost effective option.


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## archertwo (Sep 23, 2014)

Many tractors (not just the smaller ones) use plastic fuel tanks. I can't see any problems if it's properly attached and from what I see of your fabricating skills that would be the least of your worries. Also, it would free you up to building on the splitter instead of the tank.
By the way, great job on the build. 
I will add that when you're finished you should consider fabricating a conveyor for that machine or you'll need many hands on the end to keep the grate from constantly overflowing.


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## Eric K (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks to all for the input. I'm going with the poly tank. Going to order it in the am. Thanks to all for the compliments. I appreciate them.


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## mn woodcutter (Sep 23, 2014)

It looks a little flimsy but it will probably work for you. I want one just like it! Haha


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## Milkman31 (Sep 23, 2014)

Very nice!!!


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## Eric K (Sep 25, 2014)

Little update. The poly gas tank is out of stock. I am going with stainless steel. Got a piece of scrap from the laser burners for free plenty to make the tank and control box for ignition, etc.


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## Eric K (Oct 3, 2014)

Made my own stainless tank fittings. They were $90 to buy with shipping. So it was an easy decision. Lol.


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## Eric K (Oct 3, 2014)

Stainless fuel tank ready to weld in the morning. Bottom left fitting goes to engine. The two On the right are for a sight tube fuel gauge.


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## Eric K (Oct 4, 2014)

All welded up. Ready for leak test. 





Battery tray for battery box.


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## muddstopper (Oct 4, 2014)

How do you plan on venting the fuel tank. Vented cap?


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## Eric K (Oct 4, 2014)

Yep vented cap on fuel tank.


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## Eric K (Nov 10, 2014)

Manifold for hydraulic return lines.





Mount for filter.


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## Eric K (Nov 10, 2014)

The valve on the left is a prince auto cycle. The one on the right is for the log lift and the 4 & 6 way.


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## iowa (Nov 10, 2014)

Very nice! You ain't messin around! I got both my valves from J&P Enterprise


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## Eric K (Nov 23, 2014)

What is the best way to connect the power beyond to the valves that will operate the log lift and adjustable wedge.


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## Eric K (Nov 23, 2014)

I was thinking 3/4 npt to #12 jic female swivel on both valves then a #12 jic double male between them. Sort of a high pressure union.


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## nathon918 (Nov 23, 2014)

Eric K said:


> I was thinking 3/4 npt to #12 jic female swivel on both valves then a #12 jic double male between them. Sort of a high pressure union.


why not just a npt x female JIC to npt x male JIC, just 2 fittings instead of 3?


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## Eric K (Nov 24, 2014)

Good idea. If it gives me the space for long 90 on the return port. Am I on the right track using fittings to connect?


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## nathon918 (Nov 24, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Good idea. If it gives me the space for long 90 on the return port. Am I on the right track using fittings to connect?


 nope not enough room for a sweeping 90... maybe if you put a long male JIC adapter instead of a standard length... Parker# 12FFTX you might have enough room?
it doesn't matter how you connect them as long as its rated for the pressure... on mine the split valve is to my right at about waist level when splitting, and the lift valve is centered above/behind the push plate so I can use it from either side, but I only split from one side so I put it where it was comfortable and ran hose for power beyond to my lift valve...


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## Eric K (Dec 9, 2014)

Valves are mounted.


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## firebrick43 (Dec 9, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Manifold for hydraulic return lines.



I am baffled by this. With those valves you have a return line out of each valve tee'd together and then feed into the filter. From the filter directly into the tank. So what's the manifold for?


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## Eric K (Dec 9, 2014)

Hey firebrick

The left valve is an auto cycle with power beyond. The silver fittings between the valves are high pressure jic 12 male to female to make a union. Each valve has a return to tank that will go into the manifold. Also there will be a dump valve to the manifold. The dump will bypass about 50% of the fluid from going thru the auto cycle valve taking it directly to the manifold. This will speed up cycle time, save wear on valve, and reduce heat. From the manifold fluid will go thru filter and back into tank.


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## firebrick43 (Dec 9, 2014)

Do you have any info on the dump valve? Schematics? I am interested!


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## Kevin in Ohio (Dec 9, 2014)

You can see how it is plumbed here.






If you want more pics of it click on my splitter build link and start looking at pic 306. James at Splitez is who suggested it to me and he sells them at a reasonable price. Works really well.


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## Eric K (Dec 9, 2014)

I purchased all my hydraulic parts from James as well. He know his stuff for sure.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Dec 9, 2014)

Eric K said:


> I purchased all my hydraulic parts from James as well. He know his stuff for sure.



He's one of the nicest guys I've dealt with and truely cares that you get what you want. Several things were messed up with my order that was NO fauolt of his, it was his suppliers and he went above and beyond to see that it was resolved. That alone is why I will only buy from him as you just do NOT find that very often. Add to that he knows all the ins and outs of what he is supplying and how to build it....priceless.

Eric, your splitter is awesome. Fab is top notch and those welds, beautiful sir.


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## Eric K (Dec 9, 2014)

Thanks Kevin, I have been looking your build over and you have an impressive splitter. Your fab and welding skills are at the top as well.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Dec 10, 2014)

Eric K said:


> Thanks Kevin, I have been looking your build over and you have an impressive splitter. Your fab and welding skills are at the top as well.



"Someday" I'll get a mill as I sit here a drool over yours and what you can do. Would save a lot of time and dirty air, that's for sure! Really enjoy watching your project come together. By the way, Nothing wrong with overkill!


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## Eric K (Dec 10, 2014)

I have seen things bend or break that you would have never thought possible. If you look back towards the beginning of this build I did make a correction to the splitting end. Mudstopper on here pointed out that I needed to reinforce the post that the 6 way wedge slides on.


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## Eric K (Dec 14, 2014)

I spent some time and cleaned up the wiring harness from the lawn tractor I pulled the motor from. Removed all the safety stuff that kills motor when blades are spinning. Removed the wiring for the electric clutch. Wired in a new key switch and have the charging light, low oil shut off light, and the over temp light all ready to wire to new indicator lights.




Base for wiring harness and throttle control. 





Throttle mounted




Face plate for control machined. 





Finished!!


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## Eric K (Dec 14, 2014)

Towing it over to the hydraulic shop tomorrow to have all the hoses made. When they are done off to the sand blaster then to the paint shop.


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## Jakers (Dec 14, 2014)

i can hardly wait to see the finished product. of course we will need a good walk around video of it not running and then a few good splits and action shots ;-)


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## Eric K (Dec 15, 2014)

For sure Jakers! I am getting very excited. I have a 30 acre woods that had 40 mature oak, hickory cut this spring so there is a ton of wood in the tops that need to be cut and split. Plus there are a couple hundred dead ash that need cutting. This new splitter will help speed production up I hope.


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## Eric K (Jan 3, 2015)

Well all the hoses are done. I need to put a couple hose hangers on. I also need to put a couple mounts on for my flow control valves.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Jan 3, 2015)

Looking good bud!


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## nathon918 (Jan 4, 2015)

Eric K said:


> Well all the hoses are done. I need to put a couple hose hangers on. I also need to put a couple mounts on for my flow control valves.



are you able to take the return hose off of the auto cycle valve with out having to remove the other valve body?
when I was building mine I was going to run my two valve bodies like yours, but I use Parker hoses/fittings, and they didn't allow enough room to remove the return without having to remove the second valve body, just wondering if your fittings allow enough room?


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## Kevin in Ohio (Jan 4, 2015)

Do be aware that the one weak link I see is the hard line between the 2 valve bodies. Vibration can fatigue fittings to the point of cracking over time and you don't want a bath with that much flow and pressure. I purposely wanted a rubber line cushion between mine and although it may even be too short for some, it will help. The guys at the Parkerstore reaffirmed this to me as a good thing to do.

Are the valve bodies mounted on a 3/16 or 1/4 plate? If it's 1/8 that would allow too much flex for me. Working the valves, the snapping of the autocycle and vibration adds up. I've worked on way to many pieces with hard lines over the years that cracked.


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## Eric K (Jan 4, 2015)

Nathon,
There is an 1/8" inch clearance to take the 90 off the auto cycle. Close but it does come apart easily. 

Kevin,
The plate is 3/16". My thoughts were that the heavier plate would not let the valves move separately. I would have liked to have a cushion like yours but I didn't have enough space. 

Thanks for the replies. They are appreciated.


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## Eric K (Jan 4, 2015)

Flow control valves mounted. I like how they are down and out of the way.


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## jthornton (Jan 6, 2015)

That is some awesome workmanship.

JT


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## Eric K (Feb 8, 2015)

Thanks Jt


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## Eric K (Feb 8, 2015)

It has been a busy weekend. I blasted and painted the splitter body and all the bolt on components.







































All ready for final assembly.


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## Eric K (Feb 20, 2015)

Oil level and temp. 














Final assembly complete. Going to put hydraulic oil and fuel in tomorrow. I'm excited to go give it a try. 
















If all goes well I'll put some video up tomorrow. Thanks to all for the suggestions and help along the way. Thanks for all the compliments.


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## zogger (Feb 20, 2015)

Eric K said:


> Oil level and temp.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Man, that looks better than storebought! I bet you feel like a kid on Christmas eve now!


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## Eric K (Feb 20, 2015)

Thanks zogger! I am ready to go give it a try.


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2015)

I ran the splitter today. Everything functioned well. I have 3 fittings that are seeping hydraulic fluid. I tightened them up when I got back to the shop. Hopefully that will take care of them. The cycle time is right at 10 seconds. The auto cycle valve is great. Not sure I could go back to a regular valve. Three of us fell, cut and split 7 face cord in a little over 3 hrs. So far real happy with my new toy. Lol


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2015)

How do I post a video?


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## zogger (Feb 22, 2015)

Eric K said:


> How do I post a video?



Cool build man!

You have to upload it to any vid hosting place like youtube or photobucket, etc, then drop the link here


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## Eric K (Feb 22, 2015)

Thanks zogger I'll give it a go


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## Jakers (Feb 23, 2015)

it almost looks like a timberwolf. at first glance i thought someone had actually posted a picture of one but then i noticed the differences and looked closer. im super glad everything is working well. hows the balance on the tongue weight? balance using the lift? did you stress the lifting capabilities at all? how about the 6 way? 

dont mind me, i just love these builds. im eating it all up


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## Eric K (Mar 5, 2015)

Sorry for the late reply Jakers The tongue weight is right at 150 lbs. when I was building it I weighed everything so it would have tongue weight but near balanced. The axle is 6' wide and between the front jack wheel and the back support foot is 11' so it is very stable using the log lift. I put 600 lbs of steel on the lift and it didn't even grunt lol. I really like the 6 way a lot of the wood I am cutting is 16" diameter so it splits into 6 pieces really nicely. Having that wedge adjustable is great. I am building a straight 4 way also. The 6 way does work as a 4 way when all the way down and I can split an 8" round in 1/2 with it all the way up. The flow controls on the lift and wedge work perfect. So far I have only seen pressure to 1100 -1200 psi while splitting and only for a couple seconds. The starter wedge works better than I expected it alone usually has the round busted in half before it hits the main 15" wedge.


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## Jeepsnchainsaws (Mar 5, 2015)

Eric K said:


> Oil level and temp.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


OMG!!! Super amazing biuld! I have gone through this whole thread and looked at all your progress. Very nice!


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## USMC615 (Mar 6, 2015)

Alright Eric K...now let's see ya build a piano, LOL. Got to reading this thread from the beginning yesterday evening and couldn't stop reading till I finished it. Some of the best design, layout, fabricate and build I've seen...If I win the lottery, I know who I'm hunting down to build me a splitter, or anything else that needs to be fabricated for that matter...True craftsmanship and talent. Two thumbs up here!!


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## Jeepsnchainsaws (Mar 6, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Alright Eric K...now let's see ya build a piano, LOL. Got to reading this thread from the beginning yesterday evening and couldn't stop reading till I finished it. Some of the best design, layout, fabricate and build I've seen...If I win the lottery, I know who I'm hunting down to build me a splitter, or anything else that needs to be fabricated for that matter...True craftsmanship and talent. Two thumbs up here!!


Lol, my thoughts exactly, take it from fabricator and machinist, our big downfall is over biulding things. Eric's splitter is the most expensive, time absorbed work of art I have ever seen!


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## Eric K (Mar 6, 2015)

Thanks for the compliments. I need to add up my receipts for an exact figure of what I have into it. I also kept a log of my time I will put it on here when I get them added up. Thanks again!!!!!


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## bigblue12v (Mar 9, 2015)

Beautiful craftsmanship and machine! I'm awaiting a video or three. Very anxiously lol. Seriously that's a top notch machine and skills. You're damn good.


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## Eric K (Mar 9, 2015)

Thanks big blue


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## firediver125 (May 10, 2015)

Waiting patiently for the video, that is one hell of a machine that you should be proud of, and maybe look into producing?


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## Jeepsnchainsaws (May 11, 2015)

firediver125 said:


> Waiting patiently for the video, that is one hell of a machine that you should be proud of, and maybe look into producing?


Video would be interesting!
That thing would have to retail for $10,000 to make a dime!


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## 93green12v (Oct 25, 2015)

So any videos? Did you get around to totaling your receipts up?


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## mn woodcutter (Oct 25, 2015)

93green12v said:


> So any videos? Did you get around to totaling your receipts up?


Welcome to the site. You should post pics of your 93 cummins! Love that truck!


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## 93green12v (Oct 25, 2015)

Thanks.


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