# Liner through damper



## jasult (Aug 25, 2010)

I have been burning my Encore for many years just using a stove connector and pipe stuck up the damper and into the flue a few feet. I was never happy with this setup. Now I want to install a liner all the way up but the encore needs 8 inch liner. My problem is getting past the damper and smoke shelf with a 8 inch pipe. The damper frame is still in but i removed the damper years ago. Any one ever remove damper frame and cut a few of the yellow firebrick to allow for the liner. I don't feel like crushing a brand new liner to force it into the damper opening and then can't run brushes down to clean it. I am going to call a few liner manufactures for their take as well.
thanks
Jim

I am also thinking of just going with this 6 inch that member Coog suggested back a few months ago when I asked this same question
http://cgi.ebay.com/Chimney-Liner-6-x25-last-5-feet-oval-w-round-adapter_W0QQitemZ170404217142QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item27ace20136#ht_1117wt_911


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## JFerg65 (Aug 25, 2010)

Some companies offer ovalized liners. I needed to modify my damper frame a bit with my 6 inch liner. Nothing that a right angled grinder didn't take care of ASAP.


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## MN Ripper (Aug 25, 2010)

I had to cut out my damper frame too, I had ovalized flex pipe to begin with just to get through the original clay flue. But they way the masons orientated it my oval went through the damper the wide way. Its not that bad to cut out, I used a sawzall. The bad part is your laying on your back cutting, but it goes fast. I left some of my damper frame on each side to support some galvanized sheet metal I had bent up to block off the smoke shelf.

When I upgraded to my current stove I had to remove some firebrick and cut some of the old ones. Diamond rim blade on a old beater Skil saw worked just fine for what I did.

I've been told you can take a larger diameter PVC pipe 2-3' length and use it to smooth an oval out of a round flex liner. Never tried it but the dealer I thought about having install the stove said that's what they do when the can't get a round through.


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## jasult (Aug 25, 2010)

Did you have to get a 8 inch in there? My Encore wants 8 inch and if I cut some of the smoke shelf brick it will work but if I go that route there is no going back


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## MN Ripper (Aug 25, 2010)

No I had 6". I guess it depends on what the mason's left for your to work with. On mine from the best I can remember I still had some room going forward-they went straight vertical on few courses before staircasing the bricks back, but I needed room in the back for my stove that is where the outlet was.


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## logbutcher (Aug 26, 2010)

Fireplace dampers are real PITA's. 
The same setup as yours for our first cat Encore in the boss' Bordeaux Red installed in '89 with a "squashed" 8" SS pipe shoved into the damper into the masonry chimney. Worked OK but the 1930's chimney was shot. The VC people (the real ones from Randolph, VT then) said that the Encore would burn fine with a 6" flue as long as the flues pulled well. AND: that you don't burn with open front doors as a "fireplace". I assembled a 21' 6" rigid SS liner friction fitted into the chimney, no insulation, with a cap.
The Encore did it's job.
If you need an 8" flue, the oval to round work also. Go with rigid/solid SS pipe if you can. The flexible pipe can be a ##### to clean and is $$$.


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## jasult (Aug 26, 2010)

thanks logbutcher and Ripper
did you just add each length of rigid ass you dropped it down from top?
I still need to get some thing past the damper. 6 inch would be easier for sure and I am leaning to that


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## WetBehindtheEar (Aug 26, 2010)

When we had our SS flex liner put in, they cut out a space from the smoke shelf. I was disappointed but it's how it had to go in. 

Another thing to consider is putting a plate at the bottom of the liner - just above where the smoke shelf is/was. This way, you seal off the bottom of the flue as well as at the top when you put the chimney cap on. 

We stuffed a bunch of rockwool insulation around the base & sealed it off and it makes a HUGE difference in air leakage in the house. 

Also, depending on how your system draws, you might be ok with a 6" liner vs 8". I have a really tall stack (35') so I can go a little smaller with good stack height. 

Maybe it's worth it to pay a fireplace shop to come by and test the draft - I suppose there are do-it-yourself kits available but maybe it's worth the $$ to know what you are dealing with to make informed decisions.

Good luck!


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## laynes69 (Aug 26, 2010)

You really won't be able to determine draft until a liner is in. Depending on what your manufacturer recommends, you may be able to go 6". But even 8" you would be okay for most stoves that use a 6" flue. I just installed a 32" rigid 5.5" liner in our chimney. I built a clamp for the top at I could hold the liner in place as I riveted it then would drop it down, clamp and repeat. If you have an offset at the bottom, you can put a piece of flex liner on the end of the rigid liner and go that route. Then the last few feet can be ovalized to fit the damper. Theres a ton of options. If your flue is in good shape then you may not need insulation. If its cracked or exterior then insulation would bring it up to code and keep your gasses warmer resulting in better draft. Also by using a tee at the bottom, you can sweep the chimney, open the tee and remove what you swept.


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## logbutcher (Aug 27, 2010)

laynes69 said:


> You really won't be able to determine draft until a liner is in. Depending on what your manufacturer recommends, you may be able to go 6". But even 8" you would be okay for most stoves that use a 6" flue. I just installed a 32" rigid 5.5" liner in our chimney. I built a clamp for the top at I could hold the liner in place as I riveted it then would drop it down, clamp and repeat. If you have an offset at the bottom, you can put a piece of flex liner on the end of the rigid liner and go that route. Then the last few feet can be ovalized to fit the damper. Theres a ton of options. If your flue is in good shape then you may not need insulation. If its cracked or exterior then insulation would bring it up to code and keep your gasses warmer resulting in better draft. Also by *using a tee at the bottom, you can sweep the chimney, open the tee and remove what you swept*.



Nailed it !


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## jasult (Sep 3, 2010)

OK after much thought and speaking to several liner companies and installers I have decided on cutting the damper frame and take out a few brick to allow an 8 inch double wall liner and insulation kit. Will do this next week. This will allow for a straight pipe with clean out tee on bottom. I am going with this kit and will add insulation kit http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/966/product/Flex-King-PRO-Chimney-Liner-8X25-316ti-Tee-Kit.html


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## Wife'nHubby (Sep 3, 2010)

jasult said:


> OK after much thought and speaking to several liner companies and installers I have decided on cutting the damper frame and take out a few brick to allow an 8 inch double wall liner and insulation kit. Will do this next week. This will allow for a straight pipe with clean out tee on bottom. I am going with this kit *and will add insulation kit *http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/966/product/Flex-King-PRO-Chimney-Liner-8X25-316ti-Tee-Kit.html



Smart! We did the same here. Costs more but having piece of mind means more than $$.

Shari


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## jasult (Sep 4, 2010)

OK I have the damper cut and removed enough of smoke shelf and brick to allow a 8 inch round liner to drop straight down and will install a T at stove. Will be installing liner as soon as it arrives.


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## jasult (Sep 11, 2010)

job completed and went well. I fabbed up a block off plate for each side of liner and made brackets that set above damper frame to bolt my plates too. I stuffed high temp insulation around to get tight seal. Will light stove Sunday night for test run


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## laynes69 (Sep 11, 2010)

Awesome, I lined ours last month with a rigid liner. I have at least 3x's the draft now, even in 50 degree weather. Huge difference, other than the furnace its the best money spent.


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## jasult (Sep 12, 2010)

Here are a few pics, I used some stove board from Lowes to block off damper plate opening and high temp insulation to seal up tight.
The stove board can be cut easy and I made 2 brackets that set above damper frame with toggle bolts so I could just tighten up from bottom and hold stove boards in place.


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## DAS (Nov 10, 2019)

JFerg65 said:


> Some companies offer ovalized liners. I needed to modify my damper frame a bit with my 6 inch liner. Nothing that a right angled grinder didn't take care of ASAP.


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## DAS (Nov 10, 2019)

If U ovalize your pipe sending it down maybe a problem? I have 6” flue liner and the clearance in My chimney is about an inch! Anywho liner is in but won’t get past the opened damper!
Not sure I can ovalize it now? Not much room!
Looking at grinding it down a bit , but I may only gain a little bit space but probable not enuff? Remove the whole damper maybe not sure she will cone out? Bought 6” round connector maybe insert it into liner and ovalize that and then take another piece liner hopefully And then connect to stove?
Anywho trying to figure it out ?


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## tla100 (Nov 11, 2019)

9 year old thread...


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