# New splitter build



## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 22, 2016)

I currently have a splitter with 4 inch ram, 16gpm pump and an 8hp motor. 
I've found splitting elm and ash to be rather taxing. So I started gathering up my extra parts and buying what I lacked to build a new splitter. 
I can only fit 18 inch logs in my insert and burn 4-5 cords yearly so speed was not nearly as important as raw tonnage. Why am I using this ram you will ask. I feel that I will be able to run this system at lower pressure 90 percent of the time and rarely have to use the full power of the splitter. Lower pressure is safer and much easier on pumps. 
7 inch x 18 inches of travel cylinder 
22 gpm 2 stage pump
3/4 work ports cross control valve
3/4 work hoses
11 hp briggs
7 inch soon to be 9 inch wedge with possible 4 way

I'm open to criticism if it's constructive. I prefer a vertical splitter I know the ram is shorter than most but if I can't fit in the splitter I can't fit my stove. I still have a fair amount of work left but will be done before Christmas. I'll be into this total around $400 finished, sandblasted and painted. I had the majority of the metal and parts laying around. According to the flow chartso I should have around a 20 second time cycle time so I'm curious about turning my wedge into a four-way to help make each stroke more efficient any thoughts or opinions on that?


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 22, 2016)

Can you make the photos larger? I zoomed in, but they are very blurry.

7" cylinder with 3" rod ( guessinf) at 22gpm will be a 15 sec cycle....really slow!

Even a 40gpm pump is still 8 secs, which is "ok" but not great.

Honestly I'd put a 4" cylinder if you want some reasonable speed out of it. You'd be at about a 5 sec cycle.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 22, 2016)

Oh, you'll be at 75 tons with 3000psi... that plate you have will certainly bend.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 22, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Can you make the photos larger? I zoomed in, but they are very blurry.
> 
> 7" cylinder with 3" rod ( guessinf) at 22gpm will be a 15 sec cycle....really slow!
> 
> ...


I will have to take pics when in at home, I have a splitter with a 4 inch ram already. It won't split everything I want it to which is why I'm building this with the 7 inch


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 22, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Oh, you'll be at 75 tons with 3000psi... that plate you have will certainly bend.


I've been questioning that myself but I don't know that I will ever utilize the full tonnage, wood is only so strong. Any thoughts?


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## sam-tip (Nov 22, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Oh, you'll be at 75 tons with 3000psi... that plate you have will certainly bend.


75 tons is that correct? 7 inch bore at 3000 psi.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 22, 2016)

sam-tip said:


> 75 tons is that correct? 7 inch bore at 3000 psi.


I came up with 59.7 ton when I figured it


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 22, 2016)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> I came up with 59.7 ton when I figured it


But I also plan on running around 2500 psi max so that would keep it down in the 50 ton range


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 22, 2016)

Im lisdexic, 57 tons.


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## Big_Eddy (Nov 23, 2016)

22 GPM 2 stage pumps usually look for ~13HP
Doing the math
HP = pressure x gpm / 1714 / eff.

Assuming a typical 650 psi unloader setting and 85% efficiency.
650 x 22 / 1714/.85 = 9.8 HP
2500 x 7gpm / 1714 / .85 = 12 HP
You should be okay with the 11 HP motor you have, but you will need to drop the pressure relief setting to 2000 psi +/- (10HP)

Your reservoir looks WAY small. If your plan is to run in "high" speed most of the time, you should be planning on 20+ gals capacity.

50+ tons is a lot of force. Watch for bending and cracking welds.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 23, 2016)

Big_Eddy said:


> 22 GPM 2 stage pumps usually look for ~13HP
> Doing the math
> HP = pressure x gpm / 1714 / eff.
> 
> ...


I was planning on lower pressure anyway so thank you for the calculations to clarify where exactly. The tank is 15 gallons and that big old ram holds almost 4 so I should be pretty close when the system is completely filled. Correct me if I'm wrong but I was thinking lower pressure would create less heat, I then removed the inlet and outlet ports of the ram and up sized them to 3/4 and switched the valve pictured out with a 3/4 work ports valve to maximise efficiency and again reduce heat.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 23, 2016)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> I was planning on lower pressure anyway so thank you for the calculations to clarify where exactly. The tank is 15 gallons and that big old ram holds almost 4 so I should be pretty close when the system is completely filled. Correct me if I'm wrong but I was thinking lower pressure would create less heat, I then removed the inlet and outlet ports of the ram and up sized them to 3/4 and switched the valve pictured out with a 3/4 work ports valve to maximise efficiency and again reduce heat.


I'm thinking I'll put a pressure guage on as well so I can see what its taking to split the hard wood then figure the tonnage I'm actually running at. I am very confident in the welds but will keep an eye on it like any other piece of heavy equipment I run. Thanks for your thought and input its nice to have ideas to work out bugs before ever testing and failing


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## muddstopper (Nov 23, 2016)

witha 7in bore, you should really just go ahead and add at least a 4way because you wont have any problems splitting anything. I use a 5in bore cyl with a 6way wedge and havent stopped it yet. I would also probably splurge and see if I can round up a little bigger engine and go to the 28gpm pump. For certain if you max out the pressure, your base plate isnt going to hold up. One thing I dont like about a wedge on ram design is it would be extremely hard to put on an adjustable 4way wedge on it. You can make a slip on you can take on and off when you dont need a 4way split.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 23, 2016)

If you were having issues splitting ash I would suggest there is a problem with your current setup. May be a worn out pump, cylinder blow by or your wedge is too aggressive. Do you have access to a pressure gauge or is there one on there? Most splitters have no issue with elm as it is just stringy and makes it hard for manual wedging or doing it by hand. I'm running a 5 inch and it can split most everything you throw at it. With a 7, even at a lower idle, you are going to have to be careful. Totally agree with muddstopper, your base plate is going to bend quickly.

I have a wedge on the ram but mine is horizontal only. I never liked vertical and get around that with a lift boom for the big stuff. I made a quick release system for my wedges that requires no tool and is just a single pin and drop pin to hold it.







Lower pin is fixed and drops over. Rock back and slide pin in and a chopped bolt is dropped in from the top to lock in place.






Make sure if you make a 4 way to not have the contact surface all at once on the cross. Let the upright start to split then the secondary horizontal. have it lift up as shown above to avoid pinching. Honestly, with what you have now I wouldn't recommend doing it as it'll just bend your base faster. I was going to do a 6 inch on mine and I have the strength there to handle it. I decided not to as the speed was more important than the 2 times in 1000 I might need a 6 inch bore and I'm running a 28 gpm pump. I know you have the 7" allready but I don't think you'll be happy in the long run. Once again, if you do decide to move forward with it, be careful. A 7 inch can pop those bolts and they will fly like missiles. I split for a while with a guy how had a 8" cylinder with 12, 5/8" grade 8 bolts on his slide. He ended up putting a guard over the bolts after he got hit with one. He ran that thing off an excavator.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 23, 2016)

Consider too wedge design makes a HUGE difference in force needed. Mine is about 1/2" thick and quite sharp. It will cut wood cross gain nearly as easy as splitting it with the grain.

The couple times I've jammed it up either I had several pieces go crossways or a big knarly piece, like a really crossgrained burl.

I think a thin sharp knife works better than a dull wide wedge, at least in my experience.

Use like an AR500/T1, etc steel and the edge will hold up well.. can use a piece of grader wear edge, plow edge, bucket side plates. etc for a cheap source. I've seen pallets worth sell for pennies a lb at local auctions.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 23, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> . can use a piece of grader wear edge, plow edge, bucket side plates. etc for a cheap source. I've seen pallets worth sell for pennies a lb at local auctions.



Years ago I used a plow share thinking it would make a nice, lasting edge but it broke pretty quickly. It was hardened too much as it wasn't supported like in it's original application. Did hold an edge good though! ended up changing it out. Have you ever had one snap?


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 23, 2016)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> If you were having issues splitting ash I would suggest there is a problem with your current setup. May be a worn out pump, cylinder blow by or your wedge is too aggressive. Do you have access to a pressure gauge or is there one on there? Most splitters have no issue with elm as it is just stringy and makes it hard for manual wedging or doing it by hand. I'm running a 5 inch and it can split most everything you throw at it. With a 7, even at a lower idle, you are going to have to be careful. Totally agree with muddstopper, your base plate is going to bend quickly.
> 
> I have a wedge on the ram but mine is horizontal only. I never liked vertical and get around that with a lift boom for the big stuff. I made a quick release system for my wedges that requires no tool and is just a single pin and drop pin to hold it.
> 
> ...


It sounds like I will add another inch of plate to the bottom and 3 or 4 more slide bolts. Thanks for the info. If issues arise I can always throw a 5 inch ram on and have a way over built frame.


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## sam-tip (Nov 24, 2016)

I think plow steel is equal to about AR200 steel. Not as impact resistant as AR400 or AR500. Any idea what type of steel is used for cutting edges for loaders or skid steer buckets. Trying to dream up my next project and ways to scrounge up the special materials.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 24, 2016)

I'm going to double the bottom plate and add a total of 6 more grade 8 bolts to the slide. I built my 4 way this morning, if it doesn't work the way I like I'll take it off.


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## GM_Grimmy (Nov 25, 2016)

Is your 4 way wings double beveled? If so, you are going to have have pieces get wedged between the wing and the bottom plate or your slide plate.

Also, use soft bolts. If you put in hardened bolts, if something isn't right, you want those bolts to break, so you don't twist the beam and bend that.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 25, 2016)

Can you make the photos bigger? The ones you have are real small and go blurry when I zoom in.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 25, 2016)

GM_Grimmy said:


> Is your 4 way wings double beveled? If so, you are going to have have pieces get wedged between the wing and the bottom plate or your slide plate.
> 
> Also, use soft bolts. If you put in hardened bolts, if something isn't right, you want those bolts to break, so you don't twist the beam and bend that.


The wings are about a 2/3rds chisel cut. The bottom side has a very slight taper but I can grind them to a straight cut. I tipped the wings forward a bit to help keep it from binding back into the beam but it was a trial thought. I am hoping running the wings higher up in the wedge will help push the wood out easier without binding but I may be way off.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 25, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Can you make the photos bigger? The ones you have are real small and go blurry when I zoom in.


I'm not sure how, when I click on the pics it brings them up full screen and clear. If I click the thumbnails they are small and blurry.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 25, 2016)

Fingering on the pics doesn't do anything on my phone, I just see what's loaded on the page.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Nov 25, 2016)

This one load for you? It big enough to see for me.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 25, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> This one load for you? It big enough to see for me.View attachment 539211


Ya it loaded, he looks sound as a pound


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 28, 2016)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> If you were having issues splitting ash I would suggest there is a problem with your current setup. May be a worn out pump, cylinder blow by or your wedge is too aggressive. Do you have access to a pressure gauge or is there one on there? Most splitters have no issue with elm as it is just stringy and makes it hard for manual wedging or doing it by hand. I'm running a 5 inch and it can split most everything you throw at it. With a 7, even at a lower idle, you are going to have to be careful. Totally agree with muddstopper, your base plate is going to bend quickly.
> 
> I have a wedge on the ram but mine is horizontal only. I never liked vertical and get around that with a lift boom for the big stuff. I made a quick release system for my wedges that requires no tool and is just a single pin and drop pin to hold it.
> 
> ...


I'm ordering the steel for the bottom plate today. Would you suggest adding 2 2x2 bars the full length of the bottom or 1x3 bars the full length? The 1x3 is how I see it done on big residential splitters for sale


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## Kevin in Ohio (Nov 28, 2016)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> I'm ordering the steel for the bottom plate today. Would you suggest adding 2 2x2 bars the full length of the bottom or 1x3 bars the full length? The 1x3 is how I see it done on big residential splitters for sale


1 x 3 with the 1" thickness welded to the bottom. You have a lot of tons going there force wise. Even with that I would take it easy as I'm pretty sure you are going to see some beam flex as well.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 29, 2016)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> 1 x 3 with the 1" thickness welded to the bottom. You have a lot of tons going there force wise. Even with that I would take it easy as I'm pretty sure you are going to see some beam flex as well.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 29, 2016)

That makes a total of 14 grade 8 bolts on the slide.


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## 93green12v (Nov 30, 2016)

How many passes (weld) did you make on your wedge?

Any way to gusset or box in the end of the beam so you don't tear that plate off?


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## Charlie Pendleton (Nov 30, 2016)

93green12v said:


> How many passes (weld) did you make on your wedge?
> 
> Any way to gusset or box in the end of the beam so you don't tear that plate off?


What part of the wedge?
All the butts were beveled off, a root bead and an over pass. Some places had a triple pass. I did add 1/2 x 6 inch plate gussets from the center of the I beam down to the foot. I have added bars to the bottom plate. The plate is 1 1/4 inch I then welded 2x2 bars the full length of the foot. I'll update when I take pics. It makes the bottom plate 3 1/4 inches .
The I beam has 52 inches of double and triple pass welds around it plus 12 inches for the gussets.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 1, 2016)

Getting close I have about 30 inches of bead left to lay, pump, coupler, hoses and filters should be here Friday and Monday. Almost ready to test run.


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## 93green12v (Dec 1, 2016)

I was looking at the base plate and where the wedge where welded together. Pictures never do justice but sounds like you have everything tied together pretty well.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 1, 2016)

93green12v said:


> I was looking at the base plate and where the wedge where welded together. Pictures never do justice but sounds like you have everything tied together pretty well.


It should be rather solid. I appreciate your response. I also am curious, most the replies I've received have all stated that I will have gobs of tonnage pushing on the base plate which is obvious with a 7 inch ram but that being said. I've compared the way I'm building this and the overall size of everything I'm using from the beam, slide, to the top and bottom plates and nothing sold here locally from the 27 ton to the 37 ton splitters even compare. I know I've rented 37 ton splitters and they have split everything I've put in front of them and cut through what wouldn't split. Am I thinking correctly that if the 37 will push through everything then this splitter though has the capability of producing 59 tons, more than likely will never operate at near thathe tonnage because the wood will split long before building that tonage?


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## muddstopper (Dec 1, 2016)

Your splitter should build pressure up to whatever it takes to split the wood. Just because it is capable of building 50 or more tons, doesnt mean it will ever get there.


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## Tenderfoot (Dec 1, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> This one load for you? It big enough to see for me.View attachment 539211


Are those a pair of White's Hiding in the corner?


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## 93green12v (Dec 1, 2016)

From what everyone says the cheaply made ones aren't true of there advertised tonnage. My preference is speed, fast cycle time and enough power to run a 6 way wedge. You'll have enough power to crush engine blocks and anything else you decide to destroy.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 1, 2016)

93green12v said:


> From what everyone says the cheaply made ones aren't true of there advertised tonnage. My preference is speed, fast cycle time and enough power to run a 6 way wedge. You'll have enough power to crush engine blocks and anything else you decide to destroy.


Haha let's just keep it to engine blocks and not my leg. Definitely want to be safe with, even if I drop it down to 4o tons it won't hurt my feelings as long as it splits and the pump will be sipping Mai Tais running at 2000 PSI


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## GM_Grimmy (Dec 2, 2016)

You don't need all that tonnage with the properly designed wedge. The tonnage that's advertised on most all models is bogus tonnage. Here's a good calculator. http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htm Most 5" cylinders, running 2500 psi will be about 22.5 ton. I highly doubt they are even running 2500 psi in their system. Most aren't built to take that abuse.

You put 40T of force on your splitter, you're going to do 1 thing............bend and mess up your beam. While you can gusset beams, using a tube is much better and stronger that a beam will ever be.


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## aokpops (Dec 3, 2016)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> If you were having issues splitting ash I would suggest there is a problem with your current setup. May be a worn out pump, cylinder blow by or your wedge is too aggressive. Do you have access to a pressure gauge or is there one on there? Most splitters have no issue with elm as it is just stringy and makes it hard for manual wedging or doing it by hand. I'm running a 5 inch and it can split most everything you throw at it. With a 7, even at a lower idle, you are going to have to be careful. Totally agree with muddstopper, your base plate is going to bend quickly.
> 
> I have a wedge on the ram but mine is horizontal only. I never liked vertical and get around that with a lift boom for the big stuff. I made a quick release system for my wedges that requires no tool and is just a single pin and drop pin to hold it.
> 
> ...


You know what your doing , everything I see is right .


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## aokpops (Dec 4, 2016)

I ran a 4 inch cylinder for years , get the wedge right . Your going to break more than wood . The local welding shop would no longer weld my wedge back on ,I had the money an paid .Not going to throw them under the bus ,they do good work . The back an forth action cause mental fugitive . What I seen your going to break more than wood .


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## muddstopper (Dec 4, 2016)

Just a few observations looking at the pics and and some of the replies. The base of the wedge isnt going to have the same stress levels as a wedge on beam design simply because the wedge is being pushed by the cyl. If the wedge had been welded to the beam, I would be very suspect of breaking that wedge off. Base is pretty tall and welded flush to the end of the hbeam. The gusset from beam to base might keep it from ripping off, but the potential is still there that it might start to rip away from the beam. The height will surely allow the base to bend, even with the sqbar welded to the bottom. The 4way wedge I aint really sure how well it will function. The side wings are pretty short and positioned pretty far back from the leading edge. My thoughts are that instead of making a clean 4way split, the short wings will just force the first split wider apart and possibly just get stuck in the second split and not split those pieces cleanly. Looking at the pic's on the first page, it looks as if the cyl is just mounted to a piece of plate that is flush welded to the end of the beam, if this is the case, that will probably be the first area of failure and breakage. The cyl base will have just as much pressure applied to it as the base welded to the opposite end. If the cyl base hasnt been boxed by now, it needs to be before using the splitter. Actual tonnage, based on a 7in cyl with the suggested pressure setting of 2000psi, will make a true 33.5tons of force. More than enough power to split pretty much anything thrown at it, also enough power to find all the weak spots in the build design.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 4, 2016)

muddstopper said:


> Just a few observations looking at the pics and and some of the replies. The base of the wedge isnt going to have the same stress levels as a wedge on beam design simply because the wedge is being pushed by the cyl. If the wedge had been welded to the beam, I would be very suspect of breaking that wedge off. Base is pretty tall and welded flush to the end of the hbeam. The gusset from beam to base might keep it from ripping off, but the potential is still there that it might start to rip away from the beam. The height will surely allow the base to bend, even with the sqbar welded to the bottom. The 4way wedge I aint really sure how well it will function. The side wings are pretty short and positioned pretty far back from the leading edge. My thoughts are that instead of making a clean 4way split, the short wings will just force the first split wider apart and possibly just get stuck in the second split and not split those pieces cleanly. Looking at the pic's on the first page, it looks as if the cyl is just mounted to a piece of plate that is flush welded to the end of the beam, if this is the case, that will probably be the first area of failure and breakage. The cyl base will have just as much pressure applied to it as the base welded to the opposite end. If the cyl base hasnt been boxed by now, it needs to be before using the splitter. Actual tonnage, based on a 7in cyl with the suggested pressure setting of 2000psi, will make a true 33.5tons of force. More than enough power to split pretty much anything thrown at it, also enough power to find all the weak spots in the build design.


I'm listening and changing things quite often. Thanks for you suggestions. The bottom plate extends 9 1/2 inches above the beam. Is that to tall? The pictures make it look much taler than it is. The beam is 12 inches. I'll add some plate to box the rear beam.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 4, 2016)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> I'm listening and changing things quite often. Thanks for you suggestions. The bottom plate extends 9 1/2 inches above the beam. Is that to tall? The pictures make it look much taler than it is. The beam is 12 inches. I'll add some plate to box the rear beam.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 4, 2016)

Side view for perspective


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## muddstopper (Dec 4, 2016)

second pics do give a better view. Base plate for cyl mount looks plenty beefy. The bottom plate isnt as long as it looks in previous pics. certainly not as tall as the pusher plate on my 6way splitter, but not as beefy as mine either. The pusher on my processor is 27x27 inches.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 4, 2016)

muddstopper said:


> second pics do give a better view. Base plate for cyl mount looks plenty beefy. The bottom plate isnt as long as it looks in previous pics. certainly not as tall as the pusher plate on my 6way splitter, but not as beefy as mine either. The pusher on my processor is 27x27 inches.


That's a big pusher. I imagine it splits some wood


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## muddstopper (Dec 4, 2016)

still in the assembly mode, but hope to do 12 splits at a time.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 9, 2016)

Capping the back of the Ibeam adding oil and test running tonight. Sandblasting and painting tomorrow if all works appropriately. Wish me luck. Thanks guys for all your input.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 9, 2016)

muddstopper said:


> second pics do give a better view. Base plate for cyl mount looks plenty beefy. The bottom plate isnt as long as it looks in previous pics. certainly not as tall as the pusher plate on my 6way splitter, but not as beefy as mine either. The pusher on my processor is 27x27 inches.



Got dang. The pusher on my processor is maybe 8x10"


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## dave_dj1 (Dec 9, 2016)

Can't wait for the report! Oh and video of course.


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## muddstopper (Dec 9, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Got dang. The pusher on my processor is maybe 8x10"


Yea, but you only split pecker poles. I plan on up to 30in dia rounds.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 9, 2016)

muddstopper said:


> Yea, but you only split pecker poles. I plan on up to 30in dia rounds.



We do 30" rounds on the 18-20 it. 22-24" will fit through the saw, but it will split bigger. My 15-20 can fit 18".


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## cantoo (Dec 9, 2016)

My pusher on my 36" stroke splitter is 12x12. I'm going to weld another 4" on the top because I stack 12" rounds and split 2 at a time sometimes. I also don't have any weld beads on the pusher face. I've decided that I want the round to move instead of testing my welds or the bolts holder the pusher on. I cut my rounds pretty straight so no worries of sliding much anyway.
Paint, I never paint. Paint means it's done, I'm never done, I'm always improving things. At least that's what I keep telling my wife.


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## muddstopper (Dec 9, 2016)

ValleyFirewood said:


> We do 30" rounds on the 18-20 it. 22-24" will fit through the saw, but it will split bigger. My 15-20 can fit 18".


Just picking at you a little. I believe your processor just has the straight knife wedges with wings, so pushing with a short pusher plate will push the round all the way thru the wedge. With a box wedge, if your not pushing the entire round, it can split and not push the top of the round thru the wedge.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Dec 9, 2016)

Yeah 6 way, they make an 8 way as well.

Have watched a box wedge on a Cord King, can't say I'd choose that type, makes alot more junk.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 10, 2016)

Haha, found a nice big leak after 2nd split. To the hydraulic shop I go dee doh dee doh dee doh


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## 93green12v (Dec 10, 2016)

Best way to find them. I had my supply line fitting that was loose but wasn't spraying just a slow leak once everything was warm.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 10, 2016)

93green12v said:


> Best way to find them. I had my supply line fitting that was loose but wasn't spraying just a slow leak once everything was warm.


Ya so mine sprayed a gallon right at my kids bikes and yard toys, buying degreaser as well what a mess . Bottom cylinder o-ring blew out. Should have been replaced I guess, lol


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 10, 2016)

However I did learn something the way that sprayed out had a person been splitting wood in the vertical or horizontal position it would have pretty much been right in your face or chest so I will be building a splash ring to go around the bottom of that so if it ever came loose it would direct the flow away from you into the ground


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## 93green12v (Dec 10, 2016)

I blew a line on a skid steer the one day, it sounded like a bomb went off. I was really happy it was an enclosed cab with a glass door or I would of gotten soaked at the very best if it wasn't there.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 19, 2016)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> However I did learn something the way that sprayed out had a person been splitting wood in the vertical or horizontal position it would have pretty much been right in your face or chest so I will be building a splash ring to go around the bottom of that so if it ever came loose it would direct the flow away from you into the ground





Charlie Pendleton said:


> However I did learn something the way that sprayed out had a person been splitting wood in the vertical or horizontal position it would have pretty much been right in your face or chest so I will be building a splash ring to go around the bottom of that so if it ever came loose it would direct the flow away from you into the ground


Safety splash shield for the bottom cap seal.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 19, 2016)

muddstopper said:


> Just a few observations looking at the pics and and some of the replies. The base of the wedge isnt going to have the same stress levels as a wedge on beam design simply because the wedge is being pushed by the cyl. If the wedge had been welded to the beam, I would be very suspect of breaking that wedge off. Base is pretty tall and welded flush to the end of the hbeam. The gusset from beam to base might keep it from ripping off, but the potential is still there that it might start to rip away from the beam. The height will surely allow the base to bend, even with the sqbar welded to the bottom. The 4way wedge I aint really sure how well it will function. The side wings are pretty short and positioned pretty far back from the leading edge. My thoughts are that instead of making a clean 4way split, the short wings will just force the first split wider apart and possibly just get stuck in the second split and not split those pieces cleanly. Looking at the pic's on the first page, it looks as if the cyl is just mounted to a piece of plate that is flush welded to the end of the beam, if this is the case, that will probably be the first area of failure and breakage. The cyl base will have just as much pressure applied to it as the base welded to the opposite end. If the cyl base hasnt been boxed by now, it needs to be before using the splitter. Actual tonnage, based on a 7in cyl with the suggested pressure setting of 2000psi, will make a true 33.5tons of force. More than enough power to split pretty much anything thrown at it, also enough power to find all the weak spots in the build design.


The wedge worked great on small stuff the angle I set the blades worked well and kept wood from wedging on the Ibeam. However on big stuff it wedged. So to remedy this I built new wings, wider and with spreaders now it works great. I left them positioned the same angles. If I'm in twisted wood I can use the front half of the center blade to split 2 way then 4 way whenever the wood is nice


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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 22, 2016)




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## Charlie Pendleton (Dec 22, 2016)

Getting ready to weld the panels in to box the frame. Should help keep the Ibeam from flexing too much


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## Big_Eddy (Feb 14, 2017)

Any more action shots?


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## Charlie Pendleton (Feb 14, 2017)

Big_Eddy said:


> Any more action shots?


I split a cord right before the winter from hell showed is ugly face, had to move the splitter outside so we could keep the cars in the garage. However snow is melting fast so I will be finishing a few welds on the box frame panels, finish grinding a few things and installing a 15hp motor. The 11hp was a little light under load. However it split everything I threw at it without building over 1200psi.
Excited for the snow to leave ready to finish and paint this baby.


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## c5rulz (Feb 15, 2017)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> If you were having issues splitting ash I would suggest there is a problem with your current setup. May be a worn out pump, cylinder blow by or your wedge is too aggressive. Do you have access to a pressure gauge or is there one on there? Most splitters have no issue with elm as it is just stringy and makes it hard for manual wedging or doing it by hand. I'm running a 5 inch and it can split most everything you throw at it. With a 7, even at a lower idle, you are going to have to be careful. Totally agree with muddstopper, your base plate is going to bend quickly.
> 
> I have a wedge on the ram but mine is horizontal only. I never liked vertical and get around that with a lift boom for the big stuff. I made a quick release system for my wedges that requires no tool and is just a single pin and drop pin to hold it.
> 
> ...





Good Lord Kevin, make that out of beer cans did ya????????????


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## Kevin in Ohio (Feb 15, 2017)

c5rulz said:


> Good Lord Kevin, make that out of beer cans did ya????????????



4000 lbs worth 





















I like to weld.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Feb 18, 2017)

Was able to finish welding the panels today. Need to finish grind some edges for a few hours to clean up torch edges. I will split some wood Monday and post video. After I check for stress cracks I should be able to blast and paint. My sandblasting trailer has been buried behind a giant snow pile all winter so will be nice to get the diesel fired back up. I'm excited for spring.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Feb 20, 2017)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> View attachment 559001
> View attachment 559002
> View attachment 559003
> 
> Was able to finish welding the panels today. Need to finish grind some edges for a few hours to clean up torch edges. I will split some wood Monday and post video. After I check for stress cracks I should be able to blast and paint. My sandblasting trailer has been buried behind a giant snow pile all winter so will be nice to get the diesel fired back up. I'm excited for spring.


And a few more frame boxing pics. I had to work today so still couldn't video it splitting.


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## Charlie Pendleton (Mar 5, 2017)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> View attachment 559582
> View attachment 559587
> 
> And a few more frame boxing pics. I had to work today so still couldn't video it splitting.



And I think the bracing and boxing is done.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 1, 2017)

It's been a busy spring. This evening I was finally able to sandblast and spray epoxy primer. I have the new motor but didn't want to bolt it up till the painting was done. I'm thinking red for everything but the frame, piping, axel and cylinder.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 4, 2017)

And the red, time to swap motors and bark up the paint. Final build specs.
7 inch ram
12 inch boxed i beam
4 way wedge
600 lbs steel
14hp engine
22 gpm pump
21 gallons oil
50 gpm filter
3/4 lines
Pressure gauge
Hand crank for tilt, lol
235 radial tires
5 lug trailer axle
Internal screen filter
Blood sweat and tears
Going to paint wheels white.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 5, 2017)




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## WoodTick007 (May 9, 2017)

I hate to be honest. Looking at the pictures of your splitter I can honestly say it is one of the most poorly constructed log splitters I've ever seen on the internet. It has nothing to do with the effort you put forward, but poor quality welds with lack of penetration. Most if not all of your welds are substandard even for backyard hillbilly work.. The beam you chose is probably the worst kind of beam you could choose and that is the reason you were trying to weld in gussets down the side to try and increase the strength. It is going to twist and bend and bow. My guess is if you apply any Force during the splitting process that your end plate will either band quickly or break right off and your top plate will also begin to bend up and ripple.


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## muddstopper (May 9, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> I hate to be honest. Looking at the pictures of your splitter I can honestly say it is one of the most poorly constructed log splitters I've ever seen on the internet. It has nothing to do with the effort you put forward, but poor quality welds with lack of penetration. Most if not all of your welds are substandard even for backyard hillbilly work.. The beam you chose is probably the worst kind of beam you could choose and that is the reason you were trying to weld in gussets down the side to try and increase the strength. It is going to twist and bend and bow. My guess is if you apply any Force during the splitting process that your end plate will either band quickly or break right off and your top plate will also begin to bend up and ripple.


  Really??? Post up a pic of one of your builds.


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## GVS (May 9, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> Really??? Post up a pic of one of your builds.


Muddstopper,His "builds" pretty much amount to what you just read from him!


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## Hddnis (May 9, 2017)

There's always one that had piss in his Wheaties.


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## Jakers (May 9, 2017)

Never ever criticize a person for trying. Bullying is for grade schoolers and grown boys with small peckers who need to man up in life. That said, I've worked along side of plenty of vulgar and harsh people and there's a big difference between constructive criticism, poking fun or ribbing, and this. Assholes get put in their place eventually. Woodtick, you were a bit assholeish in your opinion giving

OP, dont listen to him. I think you did an amazing job. Keep us posted as to any changes you make along the way. Nothing more satisfying than building and tweaking something to perfectly fit your needs


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## WoodTick007 (May 9, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> Really??? Post up a pic of one of your builds.


I'm sorry if I'm not the person sitting there telling someone lies. The splitter is riddled with substandard poor quality welds hopefully no one will be hurt. I didn't say that I did make a good effort but that does not change the facts.
Here's an idea. Haul it to the scrap yard and get $0.06 a pound that way no one will get hurt when that massive cylinder just tears that piece of **** apart. Really


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## Kevin in Ohio (May 9, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> I'm sorry if I'm not the person sitting there telling someone lies. The splitter is riddled with substandard poor quality welds hopefully no one will be hurt. I didn't say that I did make a good effort but that does not change the facts.
> Here's an idea. Haul it to the scrap yard and get $0.06 a pound that way no one will get hurt when that massive cylinder just tears that piece of **** apart. Really



I would like to see your version as well.


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## muddstopper (May 10, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> I'm sorry if I'm not the person sitting there telling someone lies. The splitter is riddled with substandard poor quality welds hopefully no one will be hurt. I didn't say that I did make a good effort but that does not change the facts.
> Here's an idea. Haul it to the scrap yard and get $0.06 a pound that way no one will get hurt when that massive cylinder just tears that piece of **** apart. Really



Just to add some reasonable amount of credibility to your observation, maybe you can post some documentation as to your welding certifications. And more information as to your personal qualifications for mechanical engineering and design. Maybe you can provide some sample of your work to show how to build a wood splitter the correct way, or at least as to the way you think one should build correctly. If you cannot provide evidence that you can or have done better work, then its time for you to keep your self righteous opinions to yourself.


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## svk (May 10, 2017)

That vote of confidence was posted at 3:26 am.....normally means someone either had too much light brown liquid or not enough dark brown liquid.

Telling someone they suck helps nobody. If they are doing it wrong you are welcome to suggest how they can do it better. Nobody starts out as an expert at anything.


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## NSMaple1 (May 10, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> I'm sorry if I'm not the person sitting there telling someone lies. The splitter is riddled with substandard poor quality welds hopefully no one will be hurt. I didn't say that I did make a good effort but that does not change the facts.
> Here's an idea. Haul it to the scrap yard and get $0.06 a pound that way no one will get hurt when that massive cylinder just tears that piece of **** apart. Really



That massive cylinder needs a massive engine & massive pump hooked up to it to live up to its massive destruction potential.


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## Wood Hound (May 10, 2017)

OK,i am watching this thread-I have my own thoughts on this build,but will hold back......I want to see a video of this build, splitting real wood....Bert


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## muddstopper (May 10, 2017)

Just got a interesting Pm from Woodtic, I would repost it, but with the profanity filters, all you would see is a lot of ******************'s I guess I hurt his feelings.


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## Ryan'smilling (May 10, 2017)

NSMaple1 said:


> That massive cylinder needs a massive engine & massive pump hooked up to it to live up to its massive destruction potential.



I was thinking along the same lines. Just because the cylinder CAN create umpteen tons of force doesn't mean it will. Wouldn't a relief valve in the system be able to limit any damage?


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## muddstopper (May 10, 2017)

Ryan, you are correct. The pump will only produce pressure up to the amount of resistance it encounters. The resistance can be regulated by adjusting the relief. The Op has already done these things. At the start of the thread, the amount of force was mentioned. The Op says he is not setting the machine up for maximum force. I believe he stated he hasnt needed more than 1200-1500psi to split anything yet. Without going back and rereading the entire thread, I believe he mentioned setting the reliefs at 2000 or 2500psi. and also limiting the tonnage to around 33 tons. I havent done the math, so cant say the numbers add up or not. Some of his material choices for the build are not what I would have chosen, but I think he put a lot of thought in how it was all put together. Like myself and a lot of others doing similar builds, he used what he had on hand. I wouldnt be afraid to use his splitter. I dont think there is anything in my wood pile that his splitter wouldnt split and not break doing so. Thats not to say, that with the size cyl he is using, that you couldnt break things by maxing out the pressure and putting something in the machine that you shouldnt.


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## Kevin in Ohio (May 10, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> Just got a interesting Pm from Woodtic, I would repost it, but with the profanity filters, all you would see is a lot of ******************'s I guess I hurt his feelings.


 
That's pretty typical. People who criticize the loudest usually get offended when it goes even slightly the other way. I have always tried to take the attitude of being willing to learn and pass experiences along to try to save others the same mistakes I made. This forum has help and saved me time and money on things.


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## svk (May 10, 2017)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> That's pretty typical. People who criticize the loudest usually get offended when it goes even slightly the other way. I have always tried to take the attitude of being willing to learn and pass experiences along to try to save others the same mistakes I made. This forum has help and saved me time and money on things.


Agree completely.


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## muddstopper (May 10, 2017)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> That's pretty typical. People who criticize the loudest usually get offended when it goes even slightly the other way. I have always tried to take the attitude of being willing to learn and pass experiences along to try to save others the same mistakes I made. This forum has help and saved me time and money on things.


from the looks of your splitter, you need all the help you can get..................................................Just kidding.


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## WoodTick007 (May 11, 2017)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> That's pretty typical. People who criticize the loudest usually get offended when it goes even slightly the other way. I have always tried to take the attitude of being willing to learn and pass experiences along to try to save others the same mistakes I made. This forum has help and saved me time and money on things.


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## WoodTick007 (May 11, 2017)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> I would like to see your version as well.


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## WoodTick007 (May 11, 2017)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> I would like to see your version as well.


For starters, I don't have a version of a poorly designed and poorly built and poorly welded log splitter. But thank you for inquiring. 
Would it be possible you post some additional photos of your welds that are 100% unrelated to this person's log splitter build? Did you by any chance post those to make you feel more like a man? Do you suffer from ED or impotence? Oh boy look at me I am Mr Man. Look at my welds I can weld better than someone with almost zero welding skills on the internet.
My statement that this not a safe machine stands no matter how many of you Nancy's deny the facts two hurt someone's feeling. It's not a matter of if that machine will break it's just a matter of when. It's also a matter of weather or not someone is injured or seriously injured or God forbid killed when it happens. I guess some of you must see log splitters and high pressure Hydraulics has some sort of toy. But I can assure you they are not.


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## svk (May 11, 2017)




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## Hddnis (May 11, 2017)

I think WT is upset because he hasn't had any bread in a long time.


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## Kevin in Ohio (May 12, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> For starters, I don't have a version of a poorly designed and poorly built and poorly welded log splitter. But thank you for inquiring.
> Would it be possible you post some additional photos of your welds that are 100% unrelated to this person's log splitter build? Did you by any chance post those to make you feel more like a man? Do you suffer from ED or impotence? Oh boy look at me I am Mr Man. Look at my welds I can weld better than someone with almost zero welding skills on the internet.
> My statement that this not a safe machine stands no matter how many of you Nancy's deny the facts two hurt someone's feeling. It's not a matter of if that machine will break it's just a matter of when. It's also a matter of weather or not someone is injured or seriously injured or God forbid killed when it happens. I guess some of you must see log splitters and high pressure Hydraulics has some sort of toy. But I can assure you they are not.



First off, C5Rulz is someone who I consider a good friend whom I met on these forums and the reply was to him as we jest back and forth. It's what friends do. 

I've found over the years it is better to encourage and try to help others than to just bash and berate them. Offering suggestions or possible solution to their situation which the OP did do and I offered what I thought would help Concerns were raised and pointed out. He worked to correct/strengthen some things so I don't know where all this attitude is coming from on your part.

The OP seemed to be appreciative of the input the forum was giving him on HIS thread. Maybe I'm wrong again. 

Have you ever built a splitter then? You infer that you now the ins and outs of a good machine so I just wanted to see what you had come up with. When you refuse to show anything it a huge red flag. 

If I'm out of line here I guess the members will chime in and let us both know. If you need confirmation of who "suffer from ED or impotence" I guess a vote is in order.


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## muddstopper (May 12, 2017)

svk said:


>


Told you he couldnt resist.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 12, 2017)

Wow, I'm logged out for a few days and the thread blows up. 
Thanks to those that have given constructive input over the months. 
Mudstopper is correct in that, all the material, ram, vlaves etc used was stuff I had laying around. Which is the reason it's a $700 build. If i was wanting to spend $3000 hell yes i would have chosen different components and material. 
Up to this point I rather enjoyed posting on this thread, excuse me while I retreat back to my backwoods hillbilly ways.


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## svk (May 12, 2017)

Please don't be discouraged from posting because of one knucklehead. The rest of here are to learn and help right along with you.


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## WoodTick007 (May 13, 2017)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> First off, C5Rulz is someone who I consider a good friend whom I met on these forums and the reply was to him as we jest back and forth. It's what friends do.


Well, if he is that "good" of a friend why did you not go over and weld his splitter? There can't be more than couple hours of welding. . .


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## cantoo (May 13, 2017)

I don't know about the rest of you guys but I've never made a mistake or done anything the wrong way or the cheap way. Well not in the last 10 minutes anyway. For some of us hill billies the best way we learn is to do something and if we screw it up we just keep going until it works, or it kills or maims us. Without us there would be no need for Doctors, we're providing practice for Doctors.
A few weeks ago I saved $5 by buying cheap tie down straps, free health care over here so the stiches cost me nothing.
And I saved $2 by not greasing a bearing before I used my wood chipper. Nope I never made a mistake. I'm sure if the splitter welds crack you'll do the same thing I would and grind it out and weld it a little better.


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## muddstopper (May 13, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> Well, if he is that "good" of a friend why did you not go over and weld his splitter? There can't be more than couple hours of welding. . .


Those that can do, those that cant die of envy


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## Kevin in Ohio (May 13, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> Those that can do, those that cant die of envy



Don't worry, He can't read or follow the thread as C5rulz isn't the OP. You just can't fix it, if you catch my drift.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 14, 2017)

I'm not sure what the deal is anyway all this substandard for a hillbilly b.s..
Is everything pretty? No it's not, it was built In my garage with minimal tools in 5-10 degree temperatures. Yes I was shaking all over the place laying welds.
But what pics don't show you is that everything structural was 45 degree beveled, then filled then top passed. Pictures don't show heavy heat lines on the backside of the metal. 
here's a close up I know it's strong, pick it apart if you like make an ass of yourself some more. While your at it change your name to woodPRICK and shove it.


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## Streblerm (May 14, 2017)

Trolls are everywhere on the internet and you just met one that seems to zone in on welding. Don't let it get you down. I'm not aware of any of threads for woodprick's projects. I suspect he knows just enough about welding to be a critic but is frustrated by lack of ability which makes him a troll. 

Looks like your splitter will split some wood.


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## muddstopper (May 14, 2017)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> I'm not sure what the deal is anyway all this substandard for a hillbilly b.s..
> Is everything pretty? No it's not, it was built In my garage with minimal tools in 5-10 degree temperatures. Yes I was shaking all over the place laying welds.
> But what pics don't show you is that everything structural was 45 degree beveled, then filled then top passed. Pictures don't show heavy heat lines on the backside of the metal. View attachment 579350
> here's a close up I know it's strong, pick it apart if you like make an ass of yourself some more. While your at it change your name to woodPRICK and shove it.


 Charlie, theres a reason I dont post pics of my welds. I have been accused of doing Gorilla welds, "look like ****, hold like hell". The hold part is what I am after. I have seen a ton of pretty welds break the first tie they are put under any stress. Prep before welding is just as important as pretty.


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## CaseyForrest (May 14, 2017)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> I'm not sure what the deal is anyway all this substandard for a hillbilly b.s..
> Is everything pretty? No it's not, it was built In my garage with minimal tools in 5-10 degree temperatures. Yes I was shaking all over the place laying welds.
> But what pics don't show you is that everything structural was 45 degree beveled, then filled then top passed. Pictures don't show heavy heat lines on the backside of the metal. View attachment 579350
> here's a close up I know it's strong, pick it apart if you like make an ass of yourself some more. While your at it change your name to woodPRICK and shove it.



Its not pretty, but I don't see any undercutting or lack of penetration along the edges of the bead.... 

What were you using for a welder, what were your settings and what was the thickness of the material? My initial impression is a wirefeed using gas and perhaps wirespeed turned down a hair below optimum....


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## Tenderfoot (May 14, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Its not pretty, but I don't see any undercutting or lack of penetration along the edges of the bead....
> 
> What were you using for a welder, what were your settings and what was the thickness of the material? My initial impression is a wirefeed using gas and perhaps wirespeed turned down a hair below optimum....


Looks to me like a text book stick weld to me. That sort of stir make me think of 7018 rods for some reason.


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## CaseyForrest (May 14, 2017)

Tenderfoot said:


> Looks to me like a text book stick weld to me. That sort of stir make me think of 7018 rods for some reason.



Without knowing the width of the bead, you may be right. 7018 would also explain the lack of splatter. 


Sent from a field


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## Tenderfoot (May 14, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Without knowing the width of the bead, you may be right. 7018 would also explain the lack of splatter.
> 
> 
> Sent from a field


OP will sure weigh in. Id bet it is 7018. Its a good rod for the application and easy to use. Plus cheap.


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## Ryan'smilling (May 14, 2017)

I just have a Lincoln tombstone AC welder, and minimal welding skills, but someone recently recommended 7018AC rod to me, and it's great stuff. I was finding that with regular 7018 it was hard to strike an arc and that sometimes it'd just cut out. The 7018ac doesn't do that, and it's easy to strike an arc, more like 6011. It's a little more expensive than 6011 or 7018, but I think it's worth it.


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## Hddnis (May 14, 2017)

Lincoln makes a great 7018ac rod. Welding with those rods will spoil you, slag just peels itself off as the weld cools.


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## CaseyForrest (May 14, 2017)

Tenderfoot said:


> OP will sure weigh in. Id bet it is 7018. Its a good rod for the application and easy to use. Plus cheap.



Agreed... Id run the root with 6013 though and top it with 7018. Those are the 2 rods I keep here for routine use. 

Mind you Im just a garage welder thats probably done enough reading to be more harmful than helpful.


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## muddstopper (May 14, 2017)

Not so sure those are stick welds. Charlie, what did you use to make those welds


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## Tenderfoot (May 14, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Agreed... Id run the root with 6013 though and top it with 7018. Those are the 2 rods I keep here for routine use.
> 
> Mind you Im just a garage welder thats probably done enough reading to be more harmful than helpful.


Well, my welds look like pigeon poop or modern art, so I find it best to not be critical of others welding.


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## CaseyForrest (May 14, 2017)

Tenderfoot said:


> Well, my welds look like pigeon poop or modern art, so I find it best to not be critical of others welding.



Here is my initial reintroduction to stick. I originally learned how to weld via stick and then transitioned into MIG due to ease and speed. Burned that up and went back to a less expensive form since I just do it occasionally.

First bead using a new Hobart, 6013 rod. I didn't do any grinding, just scuffed the surface with a wire brush.


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## Tenderfoot (May 14, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Here is my initial reintroduction to stick. I originally learned how to weld via stick and then transitioned into MIG due to ease and speed. Burned that up and went back to a less expensive form since I just do it occasionally.
> 
> First bead using a new Hobart, 6013 rod. I didn't do any grinding, just scuffed the surface with a wire brush.


Mine would look about the same, except with more porosity, spatter, and grinding. A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 14, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> Not so sure those are stick welds. Charlie, what did you use to make those welds





muddstopper said:


> Not so sure those are stick welds. Charlie, what did you use to make those welds


7018 rod for the root, mig for the top passes


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## muddstopper (May 14, 2017)

thought so


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## Wood Hound (May 15, 2017)

This thread has turned into all about welding-will we be getting a update on how this machine turned out???Will it split wood???


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 15, 2017)

york said:


> This thread has turned into all about welding-will we be getting a update on how this machine turned out???Will it split wood???


Haha, yea it splits. I split a cord before Christmas with the test motor which didn't have nuts to turn the pump in knotty wood. I am building the mount for the new motor and control panel. It's an electric start motor so needs a battery tray etc. I'll update with video soon as it's done.


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## Wood Hound (May 15, 2017)

OK,that is good,will wait for your video....


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## NSMaple1 (May 15, 2017)

*Haha, yea it splits. I split a cord before Christmas with the test motor which didn't have nuts to turn the pump in knotty wood. *

And you survived to talk about it?


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 25, 2017)

So got the permanent motor installed, 17.5 HP electric start. Split wood for a few min, got into some twisted gnarly Russian olive and wedged 2 out of 3 splits between the 4 way and slide. So trial and error results in no more 4 way. I spent enough time removing the wedged blocks i could have split 3 or 4 more rounds.


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## muddstopper (May 25, 2017)

I am confused. You have a 7in cyl and it got stuck with a 4way spit.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 25, 2017)

Oh sorry, the cylinder did it's job and used the 2 stage of the pump for a few seconds. The wood wedged against the slide and the wedge. I don't know that I could stall that cylinder.


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## Jakers (May 25, 2017)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> Oh sorry, the cylinder did it's job and used the 2 stage of the pump for a few seconds. The wood wedged against the slide and the wedge. I don't know that I could stall that cylinder.


this is why most of the commercial built splitters have stripper bars of sorts to protect the cylinder and strip out stuck pieces on the return stroke. the learning curve is more like a never ending hill sometimes isnt it


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 25, 2017)

Very true. There has to be a way to use a wider spreader or angles of blades that will push the pieces against the slide out preventing them from wedging. I thought about building strippers but need to get to splitting so I'll get to working this machine and keep thinking. If anyone has thoughts about preventing this I'd love to hear them. Strippers may be the only answer?


Jakers said:


> this is why most of the commercial built splitters have stripper bars of sorts to protect the cylinder and strip out stuck pieces on the return stroke. the learning curve is more like a never ending hill sometimes isnt it


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## Sandhill Crane (May 25, 2017)

Check out the Eastonmade wood splitter design.


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## NSMaple1 (May 26, 2017)

Looking back at some of your pics, and if I understood what you said, your 4 way wing would be kind of prone to jambing with the slide and bolt heads directly below them, depending on the grain of the wood. The grain could push the wood right down against that stuff, the bolt heads would catch it. Not sure the best way to fix that for you though.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 26, 2017)

Very true. There has to be a way to use a wider spreader or angles of blades that will push the pieces against the slide out preventing them from wedging. I thought about building strippers but need to get to splitting so I'll get to working this machine and keep thinking. If anyone has thoughts about preventing this I'd love to hear them. Strippers may be the only answer


Jakers said:


> this is why most of the commercial built splitters have stripper bars of sorts to protect the cylinder and strip out stuck pieces on the return stroke. the learning curve is more like a never ending hill sometimes isnt it





NSMaple1 said:


> Looking back at some of your pics, and if I understood what you said, your 4 way wing would be kind of prone to jambing with the slide and bolt heads directly below them, depending on the grain of the wood. The grain could push the wood right down against that stuff, the bolt heads would catch it. Not sure the best way to fix that for you though.


The wood grain is for sure an issue. When I used it in December I split nice pine, moving into elm and olive with nasty grain I found the problem.


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## muddstopper (May 26, 2017)

I kind of always thought your wing wedges where a little short. Since your wedge is on the cyl and not the beam, not sure what the fix might be. With a wedge on beam, if the wood sticks, you just push it out with the next round. Strippers might be your best bet. My wedge on beam is height adjustable. It also just sets on top of the lift arm. If the wood tries to stick between the wedge and beam, the wedge simply rises up and lets the wood fall out.


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 26, 2017)

NSMaple1 said:


> Looking back at some of your pics, and if I understood what you said, your 4 way wing would be kind of prone to jambing with the slide and bolt heads directly below them, depending on the grain of the wood. The grain could push the wood right down against that stuff, the bolt heads would catch it. Not sure the best way to fix that for you though.





muddstopper said:


> I kind of always thought your wing wedges where a little short. Since your wedge is on the cyl and not the beam, not sure what the fix might be. With a wedge on beam, if the wood sticks, you just push it out with the next round. Strippers might be your best bet. My wedge on beam is height adjustable. It also just sets on top of the lift arm. If the wood tries to stick between the wedge and beam, the wedge simply rises up and lets the wood fall out.


 Well hopefully I can figure something out, I hate having so much tonnage without utilizing some of it. One cool thing i like is that this system operates at very low pressure. It's a high tonnage low pressure splitter.


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## CaseyForrest (May 26, 2017)

Is there enough room to have another round strip the stuck pieces off the wedge or is there not enough room for the wedge to retract with wood stuck on it?


Sent from a field


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 26, 2017)

I


CaseyForrest said:


> Is there enough room to have another round strip the stuck pieces off the wedge or is there not enough room for the wedge to retract with wood stuck on it?
> 
> 
> Sent from a field


I tried, it just pushes into the cylinder


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 26, 2017)

Charlie Pendleton said:


> Well hopefully I can figure something out, I hate having so much tonnage without utilizing some of it. One cool thing i like is that this system operates at very low pressure. It's a high tonnage low pressure splitter.


I'm thinking about building a plate onto the slide that flushes the bolt heads and building the wings on the slide side of the 4 way wider to spread more


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## CaseyForrest (May 26, 2017)

Ok. 

Sand hill mentioned looking at the Easton splitters. I believe it's either them or the allwood have a design the allows knife edge of the wedge to fully cut the splits. I'm not good at explanations but perhaps take a look. Seems like an easy modification that may solve the issue partly. 


Sent from a field


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## Charlie Pendleton (May 26, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Ok.
> 
> Sand hill mentioned looking at the Easton splitters. I believe it's either them or the allwood have a design the allows knife edge of the wedge to fully cut the splits. I'm not good at explanations but perhaps take a look. Seems like an easy modification that may solve the issue partly.
> 
> ...


Thanks I'll check it out


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## Sandhill Crane (May 26, 2017)

I guess my comment to look at Eastonmade is pretty much void, as your using a wedge on cylinder set up. 

PowerSplit utilizes a fourway in vertical mode. Don't know of any others off hand.


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## CaseyForrest (May 26, 2017)

Looks like it's the allwood that has an indentation on their wedge. They are a wedge on beam design, but that shouldn't matter. The end result should be the same by welding on "protrusions" that allow the wedge to push all the way through the wood. 







Sent from a field


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## GVS (May 26, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> I kind of always thought your wing wedges where a little short. Since your wedge is on the cyl and not the beam, not sure what the fix might be. With a wedge on beam, if the wood sticks, you just push it out with the next round. Strippers might be your best bet. My wedge on beam is height adjustable. It also just sets on top of the lift arm. If the wood tries to stick between the wedge and beam, the wedge simply rises up and lets the wood fall out.


Strippers will take care of the stuck pieces.On my other splitter(wedge on beam) I sometimes have to resort to a chain around the ram and around the stuck piece of elm and retract the ram to get unstuck.Either that or a sledge.With the wedge on ram and strippers the "stuck piece" problem goes away.


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## Jakers (May 27, 2017)

another option would be to thread your wedge slide plate for the bolts and run them up through the bottom so the threads are flush on the top side. less to catch on that way. or like you mentioned, put a plate inside the bolt heads so the wood doesnt wedge in there so bad. recessed bolt heads or bolts up from the bottom and threaded in would be my best ideas


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## Charlie Pendleton (Jun 1, 2017)

A little video of some splitting. Pump never uses the 2 stage. Its slower than what most of you run but for that size a cylinder, a one man show and personal use firewood it will work well for me.


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## Kevin in Ohio (Jun 1, 2017)

Looks good to me and congrats!


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## Charlie Pendleton (Jun 1, 2017)

Kevin in Ohio said:


> Looks good to me and congrats!


Thanks Kevin


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