# New to me Bobcat 763- Questions



## NWnewguy

I just got a 763 that was previously a rental, with 1500 hours on it and would like to swap most of the fluids and filters. I haven't been able to find a owners manual for the thing to figure out capacities etc. I can understand why the maintenence manual costs a boat load of cash, but the owners manual? I was really surprised that bobcat doesn't have them on their website in PDF.

It has the Kubota 2203 engine in it and I was wondering what oil some of you guys were using. Has anyone already got the cross reference for the fram oil filter? I have also read a bunch about people using 10w-30 engine oil in the hydro tank. This doens't seem like a great idea to me. I thought that the detergents in the engine oil would not be good for it, also the engine oil doesn't have anti-frothing agent added to it. 

If anyone has some lessons learned to save me some problems and not have to learn hard lessons myself, I would be greatly appreciative. If I could get the pictures down to the right size I would post them. I will keep trying. Thanks everyone.


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## gr8scott72

NWnewguy said:


> If I could get the pictures down to the right size I would post them. I will keep trying. Thanks everyone.



Congrats on the new toy.

Easy way to do pictures it to open a free photobucket.com account then upload your pictures there. It doesn't matter what size they are as they will automatically be resized. Then you just copy and paste the line for the picture you want into your thread. Simple.

Added bonus is that when you want to use that same picture somewhere else on the web, all you have to do is copy and paste that same [img] tag. No reloading pictures.


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## Mowingman

Call your nearest Bobcat dealer for the specs on the oil you should use in the hydro system. Then, call your local Kubota dealer to see what they recommend for the engine oil.
Jeff


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## HorseShoeInFork

NWnewguy said:


> If I could get the pictures down to the right size I would post them. I will keep trying. Thanks everyone.



Do what gr8scott said about the pictures. Use photobucket.

Open two browser windows. Meaning have ArboristSite open to the reply screen in one window and in the other have PhotoBucket open. This way you can click back and forth between the windows to copy / paste etc. without having to open and close each site for all of the steps. It's really easy after you do it a couple of times. I will help you until you get it! So, here we go. Get your two browser windows opened up and get started.

1) Click on the "Upload Images & Video" icon
2) Select photo you want to upload and wait for PhotoBucket to upload it
3) Click on "Save & get Links" icon 
4) Left click the "IMG Code" box (it will turn blue)
5) Right click and select "Copy"
6) Go to your reply post and right click paste
7) Preview your post and it will should show the picture, if you like it then hit submit reply


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## Mike Cantolina

*CAPACITIES:*

Cooling System................................ 13 qts.

Fuel............................................... 14 gals.

Engine Oil W/Filter............................ 7.5 qts.

Hydraulic Reservoir........................... 24.0 qts.

Hydraulic/Hydrostatic System............. 8.5 gals.

Chaincase Reservoir.......................... 9 gals.


I have the service manual so if you need anything else just ask.

The manual that I have covers:

S/N 512212001 thru 512249999
S/N 512440001 thru 512449999
S/N 512612001 thru 512619999

Mine is a 1995


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## Mike Cantolina

You should check the S/N though. I think they made a newer manual and mine is the older one.


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## Finn1

Go to www.skidsteerforum.com

Alan


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## gwiley

I bought a used 743 and picked up the service manual from ebay. The parts manual has been marginally useful - not sure I would buy it again.

Make sure you have a jack capable of lifting one end of the machine and jack stands to support all 4 corners - you will have to adjust the steering levers and it has to be off the ground to do this.

The bobcat dealer I have in Manassas, Va. is awesome - very helpful and good parts prices. Find your local dealer and build a relationship with him - older machines tend to need a regular stream of cheap parts.

Watch the wiring - the insulation on these older machines is brittle - I have been dealing with minor electrical repairs lately, the good news is that the wiring is mostly easy to get to.


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## autobaun70

congrats on the new toy. Those are good little machines. Biggest key to ongoing performance IMO is regular service a greasing, and keeping them clean, especially around the coolers/radiator. Also, resist the urge to put foam filled tires on it if it doesn't already have them, unless punctures are a big issue for your type of work. Personally I would keep a spare on the trailer with you, and run air filled just for the added traction if it is an option.


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## mdavlee

I had a 763 for a year and a half. They are good little machines. I would run a good 15w40 motor oil. I like mobil delvac.


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## NWnewguy

*Let's give this a try*

This should be a picture of the 763, hopefully. It was getting dark, so it isn't a great picture. I kind of like the sunbelt green better than the Bobcat white, not too thrilled with the stickers though.


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## NWnewguy

*More info*

I contacted Kubota today and they said that a CF rated 10w-30 is best for the engine or 10w-40. I think that most people are still using the 15w-40 though. I may try the Mobile 1 10w-30 as it is CF rated and it has always done great in all of my cars. I checked the price on the Hydro oil from Bobcat, $79 for 5 gallons! The filter is a little over $50 as well. I am glad that it is only recommended every 1000 hours. I have been tooling around in the thing this weekend and it works good for skidding small to medium size trees.


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## autobaun70

trust me when I tell you that it has had 10W-40 in it it's entire life.........I'll look tomorrow to see if I see any service entries that catch my eye. From the pic, looks like it is time for a new cutting edge on the bucket as well.


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## Finn1

If i recall, there is no commercially available 10w40 Diesel oil available. (I don't have my reference material available here, though). Diesel oils are normally 10W30, 15W40, the old straight weights, or arctic blends (0w40, etc). 10w40 is a gasoline grade exclusively (per memory)

My Deere Diesel skidsteer calls for 15W40 in the hydraulic system.

Also, Diesel oils all have had antifoaming agents in them since the introduction of the Navistar / Cat HEUI Diesel fuel system in the early 90s. That fuel system is about as high tech / high pressure / high flow as you'll find, much higher flow and pressure than a skid steer hydraulic system. The API added antiroam to the specs prior to its introduction (1994).

Alan


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## NWnewguy

Finn, I was under the impression after talking to the Kubota guy that as long as the oil was CF rated (which includes most weight of Mobil 1), it was good to go. That was why I was planning on using the 10w-30 or 10w-40. It doesn't get very hot or very cold hear so I didn't see a need to use the 15w oil. I would be glad to hear more if my assumptions are off. Thanks for all the input from everyone.


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## Torin

If you have a TSC near you, they have their own private labeled hydro oil for low $. I'm pretty sure it lists the compatibility on the label.


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## Finn1

NWnewguy said:


> Finn, I was under the impression after talking to the Kubota guy that as long as the oil was CF rated (which includes most weight of Mobil 1), it was good to go. That was why I was planning on using the 10w-30 or 10w-40. It doesn't get very hot or very cold hear so I didn't see a need to use the 15w oil. I would be glad to hear more if my assumptions are off. Thanks for all the input from everyone.



CF rated oil is pretty old, low tech stuff, probably from the 90s. The latest technology is CJ-4. It is backwards compatable & is the only oil I would use.

There is a chart on the API site with more detail.

Try www.apicj-4.org/2009-ENGINE_OIL_GUIDE.pdf.

If I messed up the link, just google API oil classification, or try an abbreviated version of the link

Alan


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## arbor pro

NWnewguy said:


> not too thrilled with the stickers though.



Use a heat gun to heat up the stickers (hair dryer might work), then peel them right off. If any glue residue, use a 'goo gone' type of adhesive remover. Easy peasy japanesey.


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## mdavlee

CI 4 oil has a little better lubricity in it than the CJ 4. The CJ 4 oil is for the new emissions rated engines. It took some of the zinc and phosphorous out of it which causes wear on camshafts and other parts quicker.


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## Finn1

CJ4 is a lower ash oil, so you'll see less hard carbon deposits on the piston, which means less bore polishing and less ring wear.

Like I said, CJ4 is newer technology and is backwards compatable.

I,ve never seen documented, hard evidence that its use leads to more wear of any components.

Alan


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## autobaun70

oh, if you want to cover up the old unit numbers or touch things up with green paint, Sherwin Williams should have the correct paint code for Sunbelt Green, as well as PAI and some of the Napa stores that carry auto finishes. There is no green paint off the shelf that will match without standing out.


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## NWnewguy

autobaun, thanks for the info on the paint, there are a few spots that could use some touch up.

Ok, looking at the Mobil 1 website, it looks like the best oil I could put in the rig is the Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40. It appears to be the highest rated oil they have and still meets Kubota's requirement that it be CF rated (understanding that the CI/J-4 rating exceeds the CF rating). Has anyone else put this oil into any off road diesels?

Secondly, does anyone here get the off road diesel for their skidsteers / tractors? I haven't looked for any around here yet, and don't know what the difference would be. I would think you wouldn't have to pay the highway tax, but is there much else different?

I used the Bobcat to push over two trees today in my woods. They were already dead, but not rotten, and one of them had hung up in another tree when the roots had given way and it leaned. Worked real well, I wouldn't have liked to have tried to cut the one stuck in the tree down. I guess I should have taken pictures, but it is hard when you're the one running the rig.

Once again guys thanks for all the help.


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## autobaun70

no real difference in on-road fuel vs off-road other than the tax, and unless you are burning a great deal of fuel it isn't worth going out of your way to find off road. In some places the off road isn't low sulfer quite yet, but in most places it is.


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## gwiley

NWnewguy said:


> Secondly, does anyone here get the off road diesel for their skidsteers / tractors? I haven't looked for any around here yet, and don't know what the difference would be. I would think you wouldn't have to pay the highway tax, but is there much else different?
> 
> I used the Bobcat to push over two trees today in my woods. They were already dead, but not rotten, and one of them had hung up in another tree when the roots had given way and it leaned. Worked real well, I wouldn't have liked to have tried to cut the one stuck in the tree down. I guess I should have taken pictures, but it is hard when you're the one running the rig.
> 
> Once again guys thanks for all the help.



I have been using nothing but off-road diesel in my 743DS since I got it, I love skipping the tax and the filling station is the closest gas station to my house anyway (15 miles). I leave empty 5gallon diesel cans in my truck so that if I happen to drive by the place I can just fill whatever I have - I hate the idea of spending $$ to make a special trip to get diesel. This will help if the off-road dealer is further away for you - just plan your trips. I use a diesel fuel additive during the winter to prevent gelling.

Using the Bobcat to push over danger tress is awesome! I have lost track of the number of safe takedowns that I would have been far more difficult/dangerous otherwise.

Take a look at the stump grubbing buckets for the bobcat - you are going to run into trees that are too big for your machine unless you break up the roots, that can be murder on your gear/bucket. I paid $400-500 for a sump bucket with teeth (no grapple) and it works magic on the tough trees.


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## Finn1

gwiley said:


> I have been using nothing but off-road diesel in my 743DS since I got it, I love skipping the tax and the filling station is the closest gas station to my house anyway (15 miles).
> Take a look at the stump grubbing buckets for the bobcat - you are going to run into trees that are too big for your machine unless you break up the roots, that can be murder on your gear/bucket. I paid $400-500 for a sump bucket with teeth (no grapple) and it works magic on the tough trees.



May as well use the off road diesel to save a few bucks. As someone else said, its mostly the same fuel as on road now, but with the red dye and no road tax. Within a year or so all diesel will be ulsd by law.

I've been using my Deere to dig up birch stumps, and you are right, it's tough on the machine (unless the tree has been cut for several years, enough time for the roots to rot). Next spring I'll be taking down 8-10 40 ft balsams, which I suspect will be tougher yet.

I'd like to pick up one of those root grubbers. What should I look for? Any outstanding design features or preferred fabricators?

alan


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## gwiley

I think these are the guys that I ordered mine from:

http://www.gatorattachments.com/attachments/grubber-bucket

It is simple and cheap. Delivery will be to a terminal because of the weight. I had the driver just push it off his truck onto the ground since I wasn't home (busted the pallet but the bucket was fine).

The teeth are important and replaceable. Serrated sides (as on some more expensive models) might be nice - I am pleased with the performance without them.

You probably already know this but it is not a super heavy attachment so you will be unstable - stick to the rules of keeping your heavy end uphill when operating in terrain.

Using it is all about technique. For small trees I just dig in under it and pop the tree out. For larger trees I finesse it a bit, work my way around 3 sides of the stump/trunk but without moving the skid steer from the same working spot, popping the larger roots one at a time and alternately pushing about 8' up on the trunk to work it over. When it finally goes I break the last side of the roots.

Another benefit is that you can double this as a trencher  I have really been pleased at home much excavation work can be done with this narrow bucket without resorting to a backhoe.


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## mdavlee

Being into diesel performance for several years now the cam manufacturers have been really pushing running an additive in the last year or so. They have had to replace more cams in this time than in the last 6-7 years since they have become popular. bobistheoilguy has done some testing showing the lower zinc and phosphorus levels in the CJ 4 oil. My new truck is an emissions equipped and I have to run it in it. If it wasn't I would be running john deere oil or whatever is available in CI 4.


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## Finn1

mdavlee said:


> Being into diesel performance for several years now the cam manufacturers have been really pushing running an additive in the last year or so. They have had to replace more cams in this time than in the last 6-7 years since they have become popular. bobistheoilguy has done some testing showing the lower zinc and phosphorus levels in the CJ 4 oil. My new truck is an emissions equipped and I have to run it in it. If it wasn't I would be running john deere oil or whatever is available in CI 4.



Not sure I agree. I've been a Diesel advanced development engineer for a major Diesel OEM for 35 years. My responsibilities have included engine oil qualification and specification development fat an oem level. Consider this: Virtually no oem uses flat tappet anymore, everyone has gone to roller followers for performance and life.

As a result, there are no more high volume flat tappets produced anymore. All the stuff you get as service parts or hotrod parts is from smaller producers with old, low tech machines (repackaged and relabeled), is made in low volumes with minimal quality systems, or is offshore sourced. In the past, aftermarket tappets were relabeled parts from high volume, high quality domestic manufacturers.

I know that the oem that I worked for (till I recently retired) hasn't't made an engine with flat tappets for probably 15 years, and the switch wasn't't because the oil has degraded in that time. I think this is true with car engines (gasoline) also.

The other thing that's happened (my observation, not confirmed with data) is that it looks like the aftermarket cam grinders are pushing the envelope re valvetrain design and are pushing tappet /lobe contact stresses beyond safe levels for satisfactory life. It's easy for them to blame failures on oil composition and sell a high profit additive, which they are buying from one of a handful of additive formulators (we called the additives mouse milk) and labeling with their own brand.

What aftermarket supplier is going to tell you that the super duper high output cam he sold you is designed beyond accepted limits, but the trade-off is 3 extra horsepower?

I'm not saying definitively that you are wrong, but I do know dozens, if not hundreds of competent engine and lubricant engineers and chemists in the industry who share my views. 

Alan


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## mdavlee

I know the oil is rated better, but it seems right after this change over lots of people were wiping lobes off their cams. Some were stock, some weren't. I am talking about the 5.9 cummins which is still a flat tappet cam as is the new 6.7. I don't know if my new 6.4 ford is or not. The 7.3 wasn't. You do have more experience than I do in all of them fields. I'm just a hillbilly that tried to make 700 hp out of a 5.9 cummins.


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## NWnewguy

Are we talking about after market cams here, or factory cams. It would be hard to believe that the factory is putting things on the engines that would affect longevity. I have been thinking that they have been trying to get too much out of the diesels for a while now. Not sure why everyone with a Cummins or Powerstroke thinks they need to drive it like a Corvette. Kind of defeats the point of getting a diesel in the first place.

Has anyone tried the new Turbo Diesel Truck oil in there rigs. I have been thinking I would use this in the Kubota. Anyone see a reason why this is a bad idea?

I pulled another couple of trees out of the woods today with the Bobcat. It really makes it easier and more fun to get firewood that way.


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## mdavlee

It was both stock cams and some aftermarket. A couple of the trucks were stock or real close. Some of the others were 600 hp and up. Mobil makes good oil. The mobil delvac is good oil for a lot less than the turbo diesel oil. I Personally have used pretty much every oil that is available in walmart, oreilly, autozone, and advance. There isn't much of a difference in them. The main thing is to maintain and change on time. The napa brand oil is refined by valvoline and is a good oil also.


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## mini14

as stated earlier, the new cj rated oil no mater what kind is junk, the older ci rated oil is better. there is still ci4 available but its hard to find, i bought 30 gallons reserve for myself.


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