# Need advice on falling hung up trees



## oleguy (Sep 16, 2013)

Ok must have done something wrong, just tried to post this but it disappeared??? so will try again.

My wood lot is so thick that when I cut down a tree it frequently gets hung up on other trees as it is falling. As said this scares the !!! out of me so am looking for advice on the least dangerous way to bring these trees to the ground.
Thanks for your help


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## Fred Wright (Sep 16, 2013)

Do it the safe way - with a pulley or block, heavy rope and a tractor that's out of the potential fall area.

Another method if the trees are slated for firewood is to cut the trunk into short logs from the base up until the top can be safely pulled free.


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## Cheesecutter (Sep 16, 2013)

The least dangerous way is to not get them hung in the first place. Get a rope or cable as high as possible and pull them into an opening. Truck, tractor, come-along or winch usually do the trick if one does get hung up.


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## CTYank (Sep 16, 2013)

Some tall snags I've dropped recently, nature/weather had left well attached at the butt and hooked-in at the top with other trees. Just no obvious way to safely & simply get them down. No heavy-equipment option. These trees were over or immediately adjacent to hiking trails, so we couldn't wait for nature to take its course. Too many headaches there. :msp_rolleyes:

What worked (nicely, I might add) was to make felling wedge cuts from two different sides, with the topmost wedge opening AWAY from the direction we wanted to move the butt. Make the two backcuts, leaving plenty of hinge.

With cable winch, pull just above the upper cuts, from a safe distance of course, and watch the tree drop.

Repeat a/r but only with the upper felling cuts until it's all on the ground. No need to add a pivot-point at the bottom since the butt's now free to pivot.

It's fun to watch all that lumber crash from 20' away, while you've ducked behind another tree. Hard-hat area.


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## nstueve (Sep 16, 2013)

I just did several of these on the new property... I had no choice on tractor or truck to help buried in the woods... 

I usually make a regular bucking cut about 20% into the log from the top, then under cut it so that it will pinch the top cut, and the undercut will widen as you get deeper. Eventually after you undercut the log enough it will snap and the newly cut trunk end will fall into the ground making a shorter and steeper leaning log. I continue the process until there are 3-6 small logs cut off the bottom of the trunk, and the tree is light and steep enough top push or winch it over into a clearing. This may not be the fastest or safest way but I always have a clear route and a spotter to signal me if trouble arises. I also only use this on trees that my large come-along won't handle... I'm sure my technique will be criticized by others but I've been doing leaners this way for many years and have yet to get a saw caught or myself hurt. and I always wear the proper PPE too (for all the PPE police out there)...


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## oleguy (Sep 16, 2013)

Thanks for the advice on cutting techniques, think I best get a decent come along to help. 
Should have mentioned that this wooded areas is on a steep hillside with wetlands at the bottom and horse paddocks right at the top so no real vehicle access. Use my gator to haul wood after cutting and even then often need to carry each piece quite a distance. Not the best but it's what I've got. Oh, also always wear full Sthil protective gear
Thanks


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## CWME (Sep 16, 2013)

When dealing with these types of trees it would be nice if we could buy a little explosive material to help clear the danger:msp_smile: Put a charge on the tree holding your snag and let it go boom. 

Ahh to dream. Anyway I do it the same way as the other guys generally. If it can be pulled or winched out I try that first. Cutting sections out is next but not always the answer. I had a big snag I dealt with this weekend. The safest way I could see was to drop both trees. I put in the face cut and hinge while standing on the "uphill" side, or the side where the forces were NOT pushing the support tree. Face cut, then bore cut to set hinge, check escape route, cut back strap and scooted. Snagged tree was 18" around, support tree maybe 20". A lot of the snag was suspended off the ground and no easy way to get most of it if I cut sections. Not cutting these for wood, just clearing a road.


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## gunnusmc03 (Sep 16, 2013)

You can, just lots of people have used black powder and fuse to bust up trees.


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## Fred Wright (Sep 17, 2013)

nstueve said:


> I just did several of these on the new property... I had no choice on tractor or truck to help buried in the woods...
> 
> I usually make a regular bucking cut about 20% into the log from the top, then under cut it so that it will pinch the top cut, and the undercut will widen as you get deeper. Eventually after you undercut the log enough it will snap and the newly cut trunk end will fall into the ground making a shorter and steeper leaning log. I continue the process until there are 3-6 small logs cut off the bottom of the trunk, and the tree is light and steep enough top push or winch it over into a clearing. This may not be the fastest or safest way but I always have a clear route and a spotter to signal me if trouble arises. I also only use this on trees that my large come-along won't handle... I'm sure my technique will be criticized by others but I've been doing leaners this way for many years and have yet to get a saw caught or myself hurt. and I always wear the proper PPE too (for all the PPE police out there)...



This is the method I had to use a couple times. We don't own a tractor so did the next best thing - cut it into logs from the base up. In both cases, a fork in the hanger top was securely wedged against the supporting tree.

You want to be careful doing this... as the stem is cut off, the top slides out and down. At the same time, you've got less weight holding the top in or against the supporting tree. In turn, the supporting tree tries to return to its original position, pushing back on the hanger top. The top can do some unexpected things so keep an eyeball on it as you work.


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## Somesawguy (Sep 17, 2013)

If the base is cut off, then a come along and some chain can pull it over. 

Otherwise, I'll cut 4ft sections, and let it drop a few times until it's free enough to pull over. 

Whatever you do, take your time, and be safe. No tree is worth getting killed over. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## woodchuck357 (Sep 17, 2013)

My approach to that type of situation is climb, top, rappel down and drop the stob. In really tight spots cut into log lengths on the way down using a jump notch(some call it a box notch) to make the cut off pop off after small lean and fall butt first, regular notches push the stem left too much sideways and can get hung up in nearby trees.


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## slowp (Sep 18, 2013)

Is there an opening to fall trees towards? If not, can you make one? 

Since the other thread has disappeared, I'll repeat a bit. You have a limb locked stand of trees. Since you don't have a faller buncher to get in, you could start falling along the edge towards an opening and work your way into the stand that way. You will need to have skill enough to do what is called directional falling, which means making trees go the way you want them to go IF they are not heavy leaners. 

If you can't do that, I'd not bother with cutting anything. The problem with the hung up in the tree slash it down method is that the tree will not come down if it is hung up big time and soon you have a straight up and down chunk of tree hanging in another tree and that means trouble. 

I'm not a faller. I've only done a few merch size trees. But, I've worked around fallers and helped them out of your scenario by marking more trees to come down so they can get them on the ground by falling towards openings. Thei fallers say that large trees are easier to get on the ground due to being taller and weighing more. Physics. Small trees are the pits. 

Here is one of the few that hit the ground that I did in a limb locked stand. Oh, you can always park a brand new pickup within striking distance and the tractor beams of the pickup will cause the tree to hit it. 

View attachment 314809


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## Dirtboy (Sep 18, 2013)

Somesawguy said:


> If the base is cut off, then a come along and some chain can pull it over.
> 
> Otherwise, I'll cut 4ft sections, and let it drop a few times until it's free enough to pull over.
> 
> Whatever you do, take your time, and be safe. No tree is worth getting killed over. :hmm3grin2orange:



I have done the "cut off in sections" thing myself a few times (PPE on & safety always in mind), makes me nervous but seems to work well. Usually I am able to then winch the top mess free after a few sections are cut off, if they are still tangled after the cut offs.


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## svk (Sep 18, 2013)

Dirtboy said:


> I have done the "cut off in sections" thing myself a few times (PPE on & safety always in mind), makes me nervous but seems to work well. Usually I am able to then winch the top mess free after a few sections are cut off, if they are still tangled after the cut offs.



+1. 

Within the first cut you can normally tell if things are going to be straightforward or potentially snakey (if the tree has any sideways or back pressure).

Lots of good YouTube videos on dealing with these. And some also of not how to do it.


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## northmanlogging (Sep 18, 2013)

without a winch or heavy equipment, the best option is to chunk the bottom until it drops free. Most of the time it will take 2-3 attempts.

Things to watch for are. 

1: getting your saw pinched, just be aware of the tension/compresion of the tree, start on the compression side (usually the top...usually) an finish on the tension side.

2: trees are heavy really really heavy, and your standing next to it, make sure you're not under it

3: once you start taking bite out of the bottom you will eventually work your way closer the the top. When not if you get one that is nearly straight up and down be very careful it don't try to swing around backwards on ya, you may laugh but I've seen and done this many times.

4: keep looking up hung up trees tend to have hung up branches that like to fall down and skewer people to the ground. If your falling trees you should be looking up anyway.

Now for winching hung up trees down... lots of people like to throw a rope up high in tree and pull on it... this works however you have to make sure to pull sideways....

The better method is to tie on low with a roll in yer rope (put your knot/choker on the off side with the standing line going over the top of the tree). Tie it as low as you can, the object here is to cause the tree to roll out of the hang up. The bonus of tying on low is you are far less likely to stand the tree up and have it come all the way back over and get you... yes it can and will happen, especially if you tie on higher up and pull away from the lean. The down side of pulling a tree out is it takes a bit of grunt, a come-a-long will do it but it takes forever...

Like SlowP said, try to build falling lanes, work from the outside in pick a path of least resistance and learn to directionally fall trees, a little hint WEDGES... its a whole lot less work when gravity does most of the heavy pulling.

Best of luck to ya


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## KodiakKen (Nov 11, 2013)

do your best to drop where you want(least hangups). let it lay over..UNDERCUT 100% to relieve pressure from ground..either winch off or hook to truck and haul azz. best if you have that size of woods is to start a cut road with some homework how you want to fall and least trouble


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## 4seasons (Nov 12, 2013)

I use several methods myself to get one down. If the tree is smaller this video shows one way. 

This will only work if the limbs that are holding it are smaller and can be rolled with a cant hook. Also be careful if you have to free it from the stump that you don't get your saw pinched like he does around 4:10.
But a bigger tree hung in the fork of another or just some big inter tangled limbs you will need more force than a cant hook can provide. I have used this method with a truck or tractor but a come-a-long will work. Rather than trying to drag the butt thru the dirt or yank it out from behind the stump you make another felling cut the same direction and pull the tree back over the stump. If the tree is still attached to the stump you can anchor the chain between the cut and the stump as pictured to pick the tree up and snap the holding wood, but if it is just dragging the dirt you need to tie it off above the cut.


Also use a felling wedge along in the back cut along with lots of tension in the winch to keep from getting the saw pinched. It is also easier to pull at an angle off to the side rather than straight against the stump as drawn. Just read how the limbs are tangled to figure the best direction to pull and make your face cut perpendicular to the direction of the pull.


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## Oliver1655 (Nov 12, 2013)

I normally will take of 32" or 48" chunks from the base as seems appropriate. Cut the top side halfway through then (THIS IS IMPORTANT!) cut up from the bottom side approximately 3" lower on the trunk than the upper cut. As the wood between the 2 cuts starts to separate, step back. This should make the separation slightly less abrupt. Also even if you do not have time to get your saw out of the cut in time, when the upper piece swings down the top edge will not grab your saw. This greatly decreases the risk of losing control of your saw.

If your hinge is still intact, be very cautious of cutting it loose if you have a hanger. There is a high risk of pinching your bar. Instead, I will normally make a cut as mentioned above expecting the lower portion with the hinge to either spring up or break off. As you make the under cut try to not stand any closer than you have to. This will provide you with little bit more of a safety margin.

This is a great time for wear a hard hat. As the branches pull/break loose, falling & whipping debris can be hazardous to you health.


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## Weesa20 (Jan 19, 2014)

Not offering advice, just describing something I did today to get down a hung tree. This method has been described using a Peavy or a tree strap and bar, but those were a little too close for comfort on this one, plus it was hung up very well. If you use the Peavy method or this method without the come-along, push the bar in the direction you want it to go, don't pull...when it the tree twists the bar may take your head off...that's why I put a lot of distance between me and the tree. No heavy equipment available.

60' ash 20 dbh that was hung by its 4" branch on the main body of another sound tree- I didn't cut it, the root mat had lifted up a little in a recent wind storm and was now leaning and hung in the other tree so it had to come down. I notched it and back cut it and used a come-along from 35' away to get it off the stump. Once I was sure it was stable, I used a battery drill to bore a 1" hole about 12" deep and maybe 4' up from the bottom at about 45 degrees from the direction I wanted the tree to twist. I then used a steel 5' long pinch bar that I rammed into the hole and the come-along and snatch-block with a chain attached to the pinch bar at about 3 feet away from the tree. Me and the come-along were about 35 feet away with the come-along anchored to another sound tree. I then used this setup to twist the tree until it snapped the branch off and down came the tree with me in relative safety 35' away with multiple trees between me and the hung tree. 

The bar has a nice bend in it now from the force...I estimate that with the 4 ton (8000 lb) come along and snatch block set to double the force 8 tons (16,000 lbs) and then multiplied by the 3' lever arm, I was potentially able to generate 48,000 ft-lbs of torque. By using a heavy chain, even if something had broken or chain had slipped off the bar, it would have dropped to the ground. Also, I stayed out of the direct line of the come-along and watched for any changes in the anchor tree.


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## esshup (Jan 20, 2014)

nstueve said:


> I just did several of these on the new property... I had no choice on tractor or truck to help buried in the woods...
> 
> I usually make a regular bucking cut about 20% into the log from the top, then under cut it so that it will pinch the top cut, and the undercut will widen as you get deeper. Eventually after you undercut the log enough it will snap and the newly cut trunk end will fall into the ground making a shorter and steeper leaning log. I continue the process until there are 3-6 small logs cut off the bottom of the trunk, and the tree is light and steep enough top push or winch it over into a clearing. This may not be the fastest or safest way but I always have a clear route and a spotter to signal me if trouble arises. I also only use this on trees that my large come-along won't handle... I'm sure my technique will be criticized by others but I've been doing leaners this way for many years and have yet to get a saw caught or myself hurt. and I always wear the proper PPE too (for all the PPE police out there)...


 I've done exactly that and it's worked most times. I've also done exactly that and had the top REALLY hang in the tree, not even sliding down to the ground..... That's where a LONG heavy duty rope comes in handy. I'm lucky enough so far that none of them have been further than 130'-140' from the tractor. I've a piece of 1/2" amsteel that is 150' long.

Just recently, I had the wind switch on me and push one the wrong way, hanging it up in the crotch of another tree. I couldn't pull the first tree out of the 2nd one, so I had to cut down the 2nd one with the first one still hung up in the top of it. Not fun at all, and the pucker factor was high. Tree #1 was about 16" DBH and #2 was about 12" DBH.


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