# Small slab project



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 4, 2007)

Just to prove I haven't totally been goofing off, here's a small project I built for the wife recently. I used it is a gunnea pig to help me decide what fillers, crack control methods, finish, etc. I like best. Not much to it but I thougt I'd share anyway.


----------



## Fudomyo (Jan 4, 2007)

Nice. The finished bottom helps the look.

My wife has the same candle holder (the red one). Vase looks familiar too. I'd be worried if you weren't in TX


----------



## 04ultra (Jan 4, 2007)

Really nice...... 


.


----------



## flht01 (Jan 4, 2007)

Fudomyo said:


> ...
> My wife has the same candle holder (the red one). Vase looks familiar too. I'd be worried if you weren't in TX


----------



## flht01 (Jan 4, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Just to prove I haven't totally been goofing off, here's a small project I built for the wife recently. I used it is a gunnea pig to help me decide what fillers, crack control methods, finish, etc. I like best. Not much to it but I thougt I'd share anyway.



Real nice. Really like the live edge. What did you finish the top with?


----------



## OZDOG (Jan 4, 2007)

love that second pic looks really nice. the wife must be pleased


----------



## dustytools (Jan 4, 2007)

Nice looking project Aggie.


----------



## woodshop (Jan 4, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Just to prove I haven't totally been goofing off, here's a small project...


And here all this time I was SURE you were just goofing off  

Nice job, I too like the live top. Did you dovetail those drawer fronts by any chance? Just personal preference, I happen to like lighter wood under a live top like that. Beautiful work though. Did you mill that top yourself by any chance?


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 5, 2007)

Fudomyo said:


> Nice. The finished bottom helps the look.
> 
> My wife has the same candle holder (the red one). Vase looks familiar too. I'd be worried if you weren't in TX



That's funny right there...


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks for the comments folks.

To answer the questions...

Woodshop- OK, I admit I did a little goofing off. Those are just cope and stick, flat panel doors. No drawers- I went simple with this one. The slab is from the logs I milled late 2005.

flht01- I first "aged" the wood with a lye solution to give it the warm brown tone, 3 coats of Waterlox, wet sanded with wipe on poly then 2 additional coats of wipe on poly.


----------



## Woodsurfer (Jan 5, 2007)

Nice job, good way to show off a pretty slab. I like the wavy ends too...


----------



## flht01 (Jan 5, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> ...
> I first "aged" the wood with a lye solution to give it the warm brown tone ...



Well, I'm the one in the corner with the dunce hat on :help: when it come to this process. Can you explain the steps you took on this?

The end results really make that pecan look good, I've got to give it a try.


----------



## Adkpk (Jan 5, 2007)

Nice top, Aggie. No proof from me, goofing off.


----------



## Andy Harden (Jan 6, 2007)

I love that natural edge look!


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 6, 2007)

:bang:  :censored: :censored: :angry2: :censored: :censored: 

I JUST SPENT 45 MINUTES WRITING A SET OF INSTURCTIONS FOR THIS FINISH BUT WHEN I HIT THE "POST" BUTTON I WAS KICKED OFF AS!!!!!

I'm too pissed to do it aging now. Sorry- I'll do it again later.


----------



## Adkpk (Jan 6, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> :bang:  :censored: :censored: :angry2: :censored: :censored:
> 
> I JUST SPENT 45 MINUTES WRITING A SET OF INSTURCTIONS FOR THIS FINISH BUT WHEN I HIT THE "POST" BUTTON I WAS KICKED OFF AS!!!!!
> 
> I'm too pissed to do it aging now. Sorry- I'll do it again later.



Whoops! Done that, been there. I can feel for ya, buddy.

The following errors occurred when this message was submitted:

1. You have included 9 images in your message. You are limited to using 8 images so please go back and correct the problem and then continue again.

Images include use of smilies, the vB code tag and HTML <img> tags. The use of these is all subject to them being enabled by the administrator.

Guess I'll have to remove my image. Hate that.


----------



## Trigger-Time (Jan 6, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> :blob2
> 
> I JUST SPENT 45 MINUTES WRITING A SET OF INSTURCTIONS FOR THIS FINISH BUT WHEN I HIT THE "POST" BUTTON I WAS KICKED OFF AS!!!!!
> 
> Sorry- I'll do it again later.



*Nice job on the slab!*

And just a tip for people that don't know. If I'm going to make a long
post, I use MS Word then copy and paste to here, if it's a shorter
post, copy your post here before you hit "Submit Reply" button.
Then if it don't work you can come back and hit paste.
I'm sorry that I can't explain it better than this


----------



## woodshop (Jan 6, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> :bang:  :censored: :censored: :angry2: :censored: :censored:
> 
> I JUST SPENT 45 MINUTES WRITING A SET OF INSTURCTIONS FOR THIS FINISH BUT WHEN I HIT THE "POST" BUTTON I WAS KICKED OFF AS!!!!!
> 
> I'm too pissed to do it aging now. Sorry- I'll do it again later.



sorry to hear that aggie... I feel your pain as I've run into the same thing and I HATE that. What I have done when writing long posts though, like an explanation or something like you were doing, was write it in WORD or another word processor, then when ready cut and paste it into the thread. That way if it's lost you still can go back and get it.


----------



## woodshop (Jan 6, 2007)

...looks like trigger and I had the same advice and posted at the same time... so it must be GOOD advice... right????:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Trigger-Time (Jan 6, 2007)

woodshop said:


> ...looks like trigger and I had the same advice and posted at the same time... so it must be GOOD advice... right????:hmm3grin2orange:




:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Adkpk (Jan 6, 2007)

That's why it's trigger time.  Get it?


----------



## flht01 (Jan 7, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> ...
> 
> I'm too pissed to do it aging now. Sorry- I'll do it again later.



Boy, when aggie gets mad it lasts awhile 

Been there done that myself. Since my typing is sooooo slow (and requires many spell check's), I usually key it in word, log in and paste it in the message box.

Still looking forward to reading about the process, when things cool down


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 8, 2007)

Trigger-Time said:


> *Nice job on the slab!*
> 
> And just a tip for people that don't know. If I'm going to make a long
> post, I use MS Word then copy and paste to here, if it's a shorter
> ...



Thanks. I usually do this too but the one time I didn't it bit me in the butt.:bang:


----------



## Adkpk (Jan 8, 2007)

"Comeback aggie", way to go!:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 8, 2007)

I'm better now.:hmm3grin2orange: 

OK here goes...

Let me start by with a warning. Lye is caustic and can cause sever chemical burns! Use your PPE (face shield, rubber gloves, long sleves, etc.) and proceed at you own risk!

With that out of the way...

You will need

-Household lye crystals- you usually can find it in the cleaning section of a grocery store
-2- 1qt. min. containers with water tight lids
(I use clean 1 liter plastic soda bottles)
-1 tbs measuring spoon, 1 qt measuring cup
-funnel
-paper towels-
-white vinegar
-stirring rod
-cloth rags

Preparation

-fill one container with 1qt _warm_ water
-carefully add 1tbs lye to water, gently stir for 1 min.
-seal container and let cool to room temp.
-If any undissolved crystals remain after the solution has cooled, filter them out using the funnel and paper towel.

-in a separate container, prepare a solution of 3 parts water to 1 part white vinegar (approx. 1qt total)

Application

-sand wood to 220 grit
-Using a cloth rag, wipe the lye solution onto the surface of the wood until it is evenly wet but not saturated. (you will see a color change almost immediately). Wipe off any excess with a dry rag.
-Let sit for approx. 10-15 minutes or until desired color is achieved
-Neutralize lye with vinegar solution by wiping the surface in the same manner as described above
-Remove vinegar by wiping with clean water until smell is mostly gone
-let wood dry completely before applying any top coat


I recommend that you test this on a piece of scrap, preferably from the same stock, to see if it gives you the results you want. If a darker color is desired, a solution of 2tbs lye per quart may achieve this. I've used this method successfully on the following.

Pecan/ Hickory- Warm brown
SYP- antique/ aged look (yellowish)- used as a pre-treatment to stain
White oak- very dark brown

Different woods react differently based on their chemical content and some hardly react at all. This method can be dangerous if the proper care isn't given, but I prefer to use it in some cases as it doesn't hide or obscure the grain as some stains will. Also, the color change penetrates deep into the wood fibers so scratches don't show as bad and are easier to repair.

Be sure to properly dispose of excess chemical, container, rags, etc.

I don't believe I missed major steps but I wrote this from memory. I'm building another buffet for my MIL similar to this one and if something comes up I'll be sure to add it.


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 8, 2007)

A bit off topic...

I just noticed the multi-quote button. Pretty darn cool!


----------



## flht01 (Jan 8, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> A bit off topic...
> 
> I just noticed the multi-quote button. Pretty darn coon!




I just noticed it too, but can't figure out how it works :bang: 

Edit:
Nevermind, found this thread that explains how:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=41725

Thanks for the write up, just printed it out for the "must keep" files.


----------



## Adkpk (Jan 8, 2007)

I have a nice birch crotch I would like to do the best thing for. You look like you did the best thing for that pecan. Do think this would apply to yellow birch and what does the lye do?


----------



## woodshop (Jan 8, 2007)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Different woods react differently based on their chemical content and some hardly react at all. This method can be dangerous if the proper care isn't given, but I prefer to use it in some cases as it doesn't hide or obscure the grain as some stains will. Also, the color change penetrates deep into the wood fibers so scratches don't show as bad and are easier to repair.



Hey aggie thanks for this... I like aniline dye for the same reasons, it soaks into the wood and its not just a surface topping like many stains out there. I am going to have to try this. I especially want to see how dark oak gets, as I think in some apps dark oak really shows off the piece much better. Picture frames come to mind. 

I printed out your recipe... THANKS


----------



## aggiewoodbutchr (Jan 8, 2007)

Adrpk said:


> I have a nice birch crotch I would like to do the best thing for. You look like you did the best thing for that pecan. Do think this would apply to yellow birch and what does the lye do?



Sorry- can't help you on that one. I don't have any yellow birch either otherwise I'd give it a shot for you.


----------



## Adkpk (Jan 8, 2007)

So the lye goes deeper than oils or stains to bring out the true color more?


----------

