# HUSKEE 22-TON Motor Replacement.......for Dummy's!



## Trout 2003 (Apr 3, 2017)

Hey all. I figured since everyone spent so much time lending me a hand that I would make a post here with some details....as well as challenges that the less than 'mechancial' guys can look at to figure out how to do this themselves. I took a little heat at times but in reality most guys never have to do this so if this post can help a few that want to take a shot at it than great. Hopefully when they do what I did and run it through a search engine this post will pop up. For more back history please refer back to my original post. Lots of little questions answered in there.

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-for-older-huskee-22-ton-log-splitter.306925/

Here is what I started with. The old original Briggs that had pretty much vibrated itself to death. It's amazing that it made it as long at it did....





Getting the motor off was easy. Just 4 bolts and it comes right off. No mess, gas, or oils to worry about. The next thing before unbolting the pump was to pull of the hydraulic hoses which was a bit of a bear. They don't wanna be removed. They're happy how they are haha. Wear padded gloves cause when they come off your hand is smashing against something probably haha! Also, expect a LOT of hydraulic fluid on come out immediately. I'd wear safety glass for everything in this post but especially this. Unless you plug it its going to drain near the filter for 24 hours so have a good pan ready before you do this. That was unexpected to me so I made a little mess. The threaded high pressure line from the pump to the cylinder was really tight so I removed the mail connection from the cylinder instead and not from the pump. This freed up the pump and I undid the 4 bolts and removed it. At that point your down to nothing more than the mount.





I took a moment there to clean everything off really good and get it back down to just paint. I'm pretty picky about things. I had a motor mount made from a local metal shop. Being that I was going from a vertical motor to a horizontal I wanted something to protect the pump and hose connections from falling logs which does happen at times so I went a little above and beyond. I'm sure, and have seen people get away with much less. I wanted it to look nice though. Initially I made the plates to drill out for the pump mount and just mount it all direct to the metal but that didn't go well so I ended up going on a wild goose chase looking for a pump bracket, which I should have done from the start. It wasn't very easy to find one that fit 'plug and play' to the Predator 6.5 and existing pump but eventually I found one through 'Rugged Log Splitters'. $34 bucks well spent, trust me, if you're not perfect with measuring holes buy the bracket! Don't be cheap!!



 

I had to grind out a hole for the pump bracket to fit through but that wasn't a big deal. There's many ways to mount the motor of course but however you do it pay close attention to several things. Know where the exhaust is gonna blow!! You don't want it blowing on you if you can avoid it. Pay attention to how the hydraulic hoses are going to get back to the filter. Those hoses are not forgiving at all. They don't bend much. Look at the pull start and swtiches. Really look at everything from a functional standpoint and make sure you'll be happy with it when it's done. Once I did all of that (and caught things) I tapped the new motor mount holes. Get a couple of drill bits cause 1 will not be enough. Here we are with the new mount on.





From here I mounted the new pump brackets and marked out the motor bolts which didn't go great. I don't have any great advice but just do better then I did haha.





I ended up missing the mark a little and had to grind some holes larger laterally and install washers for the mounting bolts. Not the end of the world but amateur-hour for sure. Once the motor was secure I fished the pump on and bolted that into place. Check the other post for trials and tribulations of the LoveJoy cupler haha. 

The Hydraulic hose is going to challenge you in several ways. First off finding it. The 2500psi 3/4" hose is tricky to find although once you find it you'll figure out they're available in several areas around you. Tractor Supply will not have it though. Call your local Farm Extension and ask them....they'll know where to go. Some auto places will have it too but more rare. Either way, you'll probably need new hose as it will be longer than the last. Once you have it the stuff is STIFF and difficult to cut. I used a grinder to cut and I had a terrible time working it onto the pump and filter but it eventually went after 5-10 minutes of pushing. After that, thread the pressure line back onto the cylinder you're all hooked up.

Note, take this chance to replace your Hydraulic fluid filter also. Those filter can be bought at Tractor supply. Just take your old one along but a quick google search will show you the number. Pick up some new fluid too as you'll need a jug and a half to replace what ran out during the motor change if you don't cap the line.

So after like 2 weeks and 10 cases of beer she was all back together! I took it outside and ran it for an hour at 50% throttle. Ran the cylinder a few times to purge any air in the line. The next day I did the same thing again. The 3rd day I was ready to go but changed the oil and I'm grad I did cause it was actually pretty dirty, most likely from whatever they put on the metal when it's new.

I was a bit nervous to go and cut figuring I had to have messed something up but it worked perfectly! Yesterday I split and stacked 2 cords to get the year moving.





Here's some more pick of the setup

















So I have around 8 hours on the engine. Its quieter and has less vibration then the Briggs did. It also uses WAAAAY less fuel. Engine ran 6 hours on 2 tanks. With the Briggs I had to fill it after each load so one more tank fill per day every 3 loads. The operation is nicer too. I always hated the prime button and the predator doesn't have it which is nice.

So, so far so great and I'm happy to be cutting for the winter of 2018-2019 finally. I'm behind schedule but I'll catch up. Thanks again for all the help and for putting up with me  I appreciate it!


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## Trout 2003 (Apr 3, 2017)

Also, I have an extra motor mount plate available. I had 2 made so that I could screw one up haha. You can see it in one of the pics above sitting by the garage door. If anyone is ever doing this project and is interested, if you send me a check for the shipping, I'll send it to you free of charge. My way of giving back a little.


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## svk (Apr 3, 2017)

Great build thread! I didn't know anyone used vertical shaft motors in splitters, looks better with your new set up though!


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## olyman (Apr 3, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> Hey all. I figured since everyone spent so much time lending me a hand that I would make a post here with some details....as well as challenges that the less than 'mechancial' guys can look at to figure out how to do this themselves. I took a little heat at times but in reality most guys never have to do this so if this post can help a few that want to take a shot at it than great. Hopefully when they do what I did and run it through a search engine this post will pop up. For more back history please refer back to my original post. Lots of little questions answered in there.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-for-older-huskee-22-ton-log-splitter.306925/
> 
> ...


only que I have is,,why did you switch from vertical to horiz??? predator makes verticals also...


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## Trout 2003 (Apr 3, 2017)

That is correct, they do, but they are lawn mower engines and you have override the tension brake and use an external trottle. I had no interest in 'rigging' up a brand new engine. To be honest, it would have probably ended up a similar amount of work and brain power for a lesser end product


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## ChoppyChoppy (Apr 3, 2017)

My little splitter uses an 11 or 12hp lawn tractor engine and belt driven pump.


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## morewood (Apr 3, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> That is correct, they do, but they are lawn mower engines and you have override the tension brake and use an external trottle. I had no interest in 'rigging' up a brand new engine. To be honest, it would have probably ended up a similar amount of work and brain power for a lesser end product



I bought a vertical shaft Honda for a pressure washer to replace the Briggs on mine. No additional linkage necessary. I like the neatness used in your modifying. The hoses are stiff.....and not cheap. I have a local auto parts store that can can cut the hose and make any fittings needed.

Shea


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## Trout 2003 (Apr 3, 2017)

I didn't wanna pay for a Honda. Cheap-skate!!


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## lindnova (Apr 4, 2017)

Do you find that the pump is in the way of your knees being closer to you?


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## sbhooper (Apr 4, 2017)

I like what you did, but that was a lot of work. I bought the vertical 173, Predator and just bolted it on. I wired the throttle open, as you do not split on half-throttle anyway. I made a cable release for the engine brake that I just hook in the bracket. It works great and was a very easy switch. I have quite a bit of time on the motor and I am impressed so far.


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## WoodTick007 (Apr 4, 2017)

You did an excellent job repowering your splitter. The cool thing about the 212 cc Predator is that if you want a little extra power you can change out the cam, valve springs, rod and carb and piston and flywheel and get up to 20hp from that engine block on pump gas. I am pretty sure you could even add a simple nitrous kit for larger wood or heavily knotted wood. The nitrous would have so used sparingly as she is a little hard on parts.
Nice job!


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## morewood (Apr 5, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> I didn't wanna pay for a Honda. Cheap-skate!!



It was used.......and a rebuild.

Shea


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## Trout 2003 (Apr 5, 2017)

lindnova said:


> Do you find that the pump is in the way of your knees being closer to you?




Nope! It doesn't extend past the Hydraulic tank to my ankle would hit that first. Anything to consider when laying it all out though.


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## Trout 2003 (Apr 5, 2017)

Nitrous lol!!!! Good lord! I think I'll be fine with the little 6.5 haha. Thanks for the help during the process though woodtick.

As for the vertical Predator. Ya I didn't wanna venture down that path with wiring things up. I'm just really particular with how things end up looking and operating. If I keel over tomorrow my wife can sell the thing like it's brand new. I didn't wanna patch a new engine together to make it serve a purpose it wasn't meant to serve but I certain respect the guys that take that route too and it's a decent enough option. End result is that wood is gettin' cut!


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## WoodTick007 (Apr 5, 2017)

Trout 2003 said:


> Nitrous lol!!!! Good lord! I think I'll be fine with the little 6.5 haha. Thanks for the help during the process though woodtick.
> 
> As for the vertical Predator. Ya I didn't wanna venture down that path with wiring things up. I'm just really particular with how things end up looking and operating. If I keel over tomorrow my wife can sell the thing like it's brand new. I didn't wanna patch a new engine together to make it serve a purpose it wasn't meant to serve but I certain respect the guys that take that route too and it's a decent enough option. End result is that wood is gettin' cut!


I'm really glad that you bought the one engine I suggested. You will be very happy especially with that model number. If for some reason you think you're not getting enough power there are some very inexpensive tweaks you can make for $20 or less to gain 1 - 2 horsepower.


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## mijdirtyjeep (Apr 6, 2017)

Nice job on the re power project!!

PS: if I'm not mistaken, you have the Hemi version. Now when anyone ask's, you can say "Yeah it's got a Hemi"


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## GVS (Apr 6, 2017)

WoodTick007 said:


> You did an excellent job repowering your splitter. The cool thing about the 212 cc Predator is that if you want a little extra power you can change out the cam, valve springs, rod and carb and piston and flywheel and get up to 20hp from that engine block on pump gas. I am pretty sure you could even add a simple nitrous kit for larger wood or heavily knotted wood. The nitrous would have so used sparingly as she is a little hard on parts.
> Nice job!


Good Lord!If the guy wanted a little more power he could have spent $75.00 more ,bought a bigger engine and saved himself the labor involved in a total tear down and rebuild and avoided the the added expense of all those "performance" parts.And why would he or anybody need 20 HP on a 22 ton splitter?


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## farmer steve (Apr 7, 2017)

nice build thread @Trout 2003.great pics!! if you need anymore testing done bring it over to york co.


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## Trout 2003 (Apr 17, 2017)

All wrapped up for the Spring splitting season. Engine ran splendid with no issues at all. Got some work done!!


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## Chris Johnson (Oct 20, 2018)

Trout: I am a little late to this discussion . You did a very nice job ! I am new to this forum and typed into my browser what you accomplished ! I didn’t want to put another B&S lawn mower engine on after it died . I followed the first thread which lead me to this one . I would be interested in your other motor mount/plate if you happen to still have it . If not , your pictures and text have helped me a lot. Hope all is still running well .


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## kevin j (Oct 20, 2018)

Very nice design and workmanship.
I am adding this note about anti vibe mount because this thread will be found by others in future searches.


This is pasted from website notes. 

ENGINE VIBRATION MOUNTS
-Just using a layer of sheet rubber under the engine does not do much. It is not soft enough to isolate well, the mounting bolts compress on the rubber and don't tighten as metal to metal, and the bolts vibrate loose,

-I have used many of these small mounts from Grainger, 2NPG8, about $6 each. I don't know the original manufacturer.

-These mounts have a metal sleeve through the center, around the bolt, so the bolts tighten metal on metal and can be torqued to stay tight. There is still positive retention of the motor in the upward direction due to the large metal washer on the bottom side.

-Engine mounts are often simple holes in the engine base to use 3/8 inch bolts onto a flat plate or angle structure. To use these mounts in an existing structure, drill a .79 inch diameter hole through the mounting surface (up to 3/8 thick). Deburr the top and bottom corners. Raise the engine about 3/8 inch, install the mount into the hole from the top. The donut washer goes on the bottom, then a flat tail washer underneath. A longer 3/8 bolt goes through engine base, through the vibration isolator and tail washer, and has a nut on the bottom. The bolt tightens metal to metal on the center steel tube, and proper tension is developed.

-The mount is a bit heavy for good isolation of a light load, The maximum axial load is 130 lbs per mount. The optimum axial load for good vibration isolation would be about 50-100 lbs on each isolator. However, this is the smallest one Grainger has in this style, and it does certainly help.

-I have used 4 under my engine package, then 3 more from the frame of engine/tank/hydraulics package to the frame of the trailer. I have also used on small hydraulic power units, and in some lawn and garden tractor applications.

-The design could be copied using a short length of steel tubing inside a rubber hose or tube. There should be rubber around the tube to prevent the steel tube contacting the inside of the hole through the frame. Metal to metal contact there would somewhat defeat the point of rubber mounting. 

-These work really well to reduce structure born vibration noise, and prevent stress cracking of the mount structure.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Oct 20, 2018)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> My little splitter uses an 11 or 12hp lawn tractor engine and belt driven pump.



Same here. Swisher I think is the brand.


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