# What Is The Best Manual Log Lifter?



## ReggieT (Nov 19, 2013)

I do quite a bit of cutting by myself...and I've been looking at various log lifters with heavy duty handles.
I've also been looking at some lightweight chain attached log skidders to pull logs out of the woods or out of the rough spots.
These would seemingly help my back & workload tremendously...here's what I'm considering: Timber Jack Log Jack Tool, Koch Log Jack, Columbus McKinnon 06238 Log Jack,
Peavey Mfg 3-1/2' Timberjack, and the Timber Tuff TMB-65 Fiberglass Handled Timberjack.

Share with me your pro's & cons on these tools...and your experience as well.

Thanks
REG


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## XSKIER (Nov 19, 2013)

Stihl sells a nice one, but it's about thrice as much as those. I've never used a log lift, but I bought one at Tsc last week to see if I like it. If I do, I'll probably grab a stihl one for next season.


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## Smulax (Nov 19, 2013)

I bought a crappy Chinese timber jack from tsc last year. I should have known better then to buy that crap. From what I've seen the timber jack makes a good one


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## srb08 (Nov 19, 2013)

I bought the Timberjack a couple of years ago. It's given me good service and I've used it pretty hard.


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## Dalmatian90 (Nov 19, 2013)

XSKIER said:


> Stihl sells a nice one, but it's about thrice as much as those. I've never used a log lift, but I bought one at Tsc last week to see if I like it. If I do, I'll probably grab a stihl one for next season.



Stihl Orange paint is quite expensive. Must come from Germany 

In it's natural Blue paint, they're not as expensive, though probably more than the tools Reggie's looking at. I have the Peavy w/log stand. They're made about 40 miles west of me and I bought mine from the owner of the company 

http://www.logrite.com/store/Category/Peaveys
(Log stand is under Other Tools)


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## ReggieT (Nov 19, 2013)

Dalmatian90 said:


> Stihl Orange paint is quite expensive. Must come from Germany
> 
> In it's natural Blue paint, they're not as expensive, though probably more than the tools Reggie's looking at. I have the Peavy w/log stand. They're made about 40 miles west of me and I bought mine from the owner of the company
> 
> ...


Here is something kinda nifty...don't know about the "practicality" part...
http://www.hiltonhandcraft.com/Articles/LogLift.asp


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## TreePointer (Nov 20, 2013)

I like a 4' handle for the big logs.


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## ReggieT (Nov 20, 2013)

TreePointer said:


> I like a 4' handle for the big logs.


Thanks...will any of the local hardware stores carry these?
I got some cutting to do this Friday...and can't wait on a online order to ship...unless I want to pay $75-140 overnight!!!


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## TreePointer (Nov 20, 2013)

Around here, national chain hardware stores don't carry them, but some local hardware stores will have them. Also, farm stores like Tractor Supply always seem have them in stock. Chainsaw dealers sell them but don't always have them in stock in my area. Bear in mind that there are a lot of wood burners in my area.

If you have any Northern Tool stores in your area, they may have their 4' fiberglass timberjack in stock. I like mine, but unfortunately they removed it from their website within the past 10 days. 

If you're in doubt, you can't go wrong with Logrite's quality (or the Stihl branded model).


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## Whiskey_Bravo (Nov 20, 2013)

The Stihl Peaveys and Hookaroons are just repainted LogRites. I have the LogRite Peavey with the optional log stand. I paid about ~$130.00ish at my local saw shop, but I needed it and he had it in stock. It has proved to be one of my best purchases yet. Absolutely bombproof construction and very easy to use. I plan on handing it down to my kids eventually. I was so impressed with the quality that I purchased a matching Hookaroon when Baileys was having a sale recently. If you prefer a wooden handle model, the Dixie Industries models look top notch as well.


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## XSKIER (Nov 20, 2013)

Hey Dalmatian,

"You know the Germans make good stuff, right?". -Vince for sham-wow.


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## artbaldoni (Nov 20, 2013)

Woodchuck Dual with foot if you want a jack. I personally don't use the foot. 
http://woodchucktool.com/dual


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## labdad (Nov 20, 2013)

I just bought a 60" logrite with the jack and love it. I'd been pulling around on logs too long. I can't say its better than the others but the quality is there. I'd say it would be hard to beat.


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## Smulax (Nov 21, 2013)

Smulax said:


> I bought a crappy Chinese timber jack from tsc last year. I should have known better then to buy that crap. From what I've seen the timber jack makes a good one


Oops typo I meant to saw woodchuck not timber jack


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## ReggieT (Nov 22, 2013)

Dalmatian90 said:


> Stihl Orange paint is quite expensive. Must come from Germany
> 
> In it's natural Blue paint, they're not as expensive, though probably more than the tools Reggie's looking at. I have the Peavy w/log stand. They're made about 40 miles west of me and I bought mine from the owner of the company
> 
> ...


Tell ya what this rascal right here looks pretty darn stout!! 
*60" Xtreme Duty Peavey*


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## woodchuck357 (Nov 22, 2013)

A 10/12 foot limb 2" or more in diameter and a 6/10 inch diameter round as a fulcrum. Use another smaller limb to push another round under the raised log while holding the end of the lever limb down with your foot. If you want it higher just take another bite with a bigger fulcrum.


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## Hinerman (Nov 22, 2013)

I have the woodchuck and logrite log jacks. I think log jacks are overrated. It seems you only get 2-3 cuts then you have to reposition the jack, 1-2 cuts, reposition jack, repeat. Just cut the log 2/3 down, roll it over, finish your cuts. For big logs I use the log rite cant hook to turn 'em.


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## Oliver1655 (Nov 22, 2013)

When cutting downward & you break through the log the saw has a natural tendency to continue downwards and alas - find the ground. To prevent this tragedy, I have found by cutting with the top of the bar I can get the tip close to the ground & as I cut away from me the tip will stay away from the ground as it arcs upward. Unless the wood has settled into the ground I can generally cut all the way through the log. If it has settled into the ground then I just cut down close to the ground & as Hinerman said, roll the uncut portion up to finish the cut. If I am not able to cut that 1/8 - 1/4" of bark by the ground when using an up cut, who cares. The round will come apart easily. On larger logs I will cut most of the way from the top then cut upwards.

If you decide to start cutting upwards, make sure you do not let the "kick back" portion of the tip be the first portion of the bar to make contact.

This said I do have a log jack available for helpers who may not be quite as skilled or confident with a saw & I also have a cant hook with a 54" handle for the times I need one. 

I am rough on AV springs because of all the up cutting I do. One of the reasons I like my Stihl 08-S - no AV springs to tear up. So far my Jonsered CS 2139T & Husqvarna 338XPT, they have held up well so far.


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## Joesell (Nov 22, 2013)

Cant hooks are on sale at Northern this weekend. I don't really need one that picks up the logs, I just need help rolling them over sometimes. The problem I'm seeing is that most of the cant hooks are rated for a 12" and 16" log. I dont need help with the baby logs, I need help with the 24" to 36" logs. Will these smaller cant hooks dig into a bigger log, or would I be wasting my money?


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## artbaldoni (Nov 22, 2013)

Hinerman said:


> I have the woodchuck and logrite log jacks. I think log jacks are overrated. It seems you only get 2-3 cuts then you have to reposition the jack, 1-2 cuts, reposition jack, repeat. Just cut the log 2/3 down, roll it over, finish your cuts. For big logs I use the log rite cant hook to turn 'em.


Agreed. I only use the can't hook on the Woodchuck.


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## TreePointer (Nov 22, 2013)

Hinerman said:


> I have the woodchuck and logrite log jacks. I think log jacks are overrated. It seems you only get 2-3 cuts then you have to reposition the jack, 1-2 cuts, reposition jack, repeat. Just cut the log 2/3 down, roll it over, finish your cuts. For big logs I use the log rite cant hook to turn 'em.



I agree, and that's why I don't use it as a lift that often. Sometimes the lift is valuable, though. I've used it to lift logs out of muck and pull it away from brush and vines in a much more effective way than just a cant hook. There is the log on which I only need to make one or two cuts to make it more manageable for moving, and the lift function shines here, too. Most of the time, however, I use it as a cant hook or peavey to roll the log.


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## TreePointer (Nov 22, 2013)

Joesell said:


> Cant hooks are on sale at Northern this weekend. I don't really need one that picks up the logs, I just need help rolling them over sometimes. The problem I'm seeing is that most of the cant hooks are rated for a 12" and 16" log. I dont need help with the baby logs, I need help with the 24" to 36" logs. Will these smaller cant hooks dig into a bigger log, or would I be wasting my money?



My experience is that most of them can roll much larger logs than their rating indicates. The key is the design of the points/teeth. If you can get it to bite into the log, you can roll some monsters.


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## ReggieT (Nov 23, 2013)

Joesell said:


> Cant hooks are on sale at Northern this weekend. I don't really need one that picks up the logs, I just need help rolling them over sometimes. The problem I'm seeing is that most of the cant hooks are rated for a 12" and 16" log. I dont need help with the baby logs, I need help with the 24" to 36" logs. Will these smaller cant hooks dig into a bigger log, or would I be wasting my money?


Ditto...Exactly!!


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## ponyexpress976 (Nov 23, 2013)

woodchuck357 said:


> A 10/12 foot limb 2" or more in diameter and a 6/10 inch diameter round as a fulcrum. Use another smaller limb to push another round under the raised log while holding the end of the lever limb down with your foot. If you want it higher just take another bite with a bigger fulcrum.



The best ones are the ones you don't have to carry in/out of the woods.


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## ReggieT (Nov 23, 2013)

ponyexpress976 said:


> The best ones are the ones you don't have to carry in/out of the woods.


Hmm...how about posting pic of that...sounds do-able though...


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## TreePointer (Nov 24, 2013)

I always a fan of finding a clever use of whatever nature gives us, but sometimes a cant hook or peavey can make a tough job very easy and especially if you're a one person operation.


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## ponyexpress976 (Nov 24, 2013)

ReggieT said:


> Hmm...how about posting pic of that...sounds do-able though...


I have the el-cheapo log roller described earlier. Most of the time it stays in the truck...especially if I can find something on the ground that is much closer. Also when felling, I try to position stuff from the woods so that the log stays up off of the mud/rocks etc.


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## fuzz1500 (Nov 24, 2013)

Ive only used a cant hook on the bigger stuff ....way back when I was younger !! Really on regular size firewood , I never saw the purpose for a jack or hook .


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## Joesell (Nov 24, 2013)

I ended up getting the 6.5' Cant hook from Northern. Don't quote me on the prices, but I think it was originally $80ish, and I got it for $44 shipped to the store. 

I don't need for the little stuff. I just have a hard time rolling some of the big stuff.


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## lapeer20m (Nov 24, 2013)

Do you guys use a pair of log jacks in tandem? Or just one at a time?

I'm still searching for the "best" way to process firewood. I moved to this 60 acre property about 1.5 years ago. I generally buck logs in the woods but occasionally skid logs to my processing area. A pair of log jacks near the center of a log may speed things up.


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## TreePointer (Nov 24, 2013)

I'm not sure how I would get the second one under a big log unless I had a helper rolling the log with a second timberjack at the same time.


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## zogger (Nov 24, 2013)

lapeer20m said:


> Do you guys use a pair of log jacks in tandem? Or just one at a time?
> 
> I'm still searching for the "best" way to process firewood. I moved to this 60 acre property about 1.5 years ago. I generally buck logs in the woods but occasionally skid logs to my processing area. A pair of log jacks near the center of a log may speed things up.



I sledge hammer in small rounds with a slanty wedge cut on one side. Takes 5 to 10 seconds tops, nice clean cut then. Log doesn't have to be up much at all to get a no pinch cut. that and a plastic wedge at the top for larger logs. Put them right where you want your bucking cut to go, or close to it on the still heavy remaining side. I like right there though, makes it easier to knock them out and move them up the log if needed.


Unless the ground is complete soup, you'll get enough lift to make bucking easy, and no need to try and roll huge logs that way. Smaller ones, sure, cut down 3/4ths, roll and finish, but larger ones, I find the small round lift wedge technique to be the easiest/cheapest/fastest..

If you are dragging, perhaps drag to a slight uphill area, then roll down over some logs laid out to act as supports.


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## XSKIER (Nov 25, 2013)

XSKIER said:


> Stihl sells a nice one, but it's about thrice as much as those. I've never used a log lift, but I bought one at Tsc last week to see if I like it. If I do, I'll probably grab a stihl one for next season.



So I got my first use in yesterday. The package says "lifts up to a 14" log". Which sounds about right. While it would get a grip, and roll, the 18" log pictured, it wouldn't lift the log. It was nice to have the extra leverage to roll the log 90° to Finnish my buck cuts. On a smaller log, the lifter lifts so easy that you don't even have to set the Motorsägen down to reposition the lifter. This Tsc model is definitely a piece of Chinese crap, but would probably last if handled lightly. Tsc is pretty good about returns as well, if truly unsatisfied.


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## zogger (Nov 25, 2013)

I have the steel handled TSC cheap version. works OK. I use it on tweener logs, not too small, not too big.


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## woodchuck357 (Nov 25, 2013)

I sometimes use a short length of small chain with loops in the ends (made with quick links) to roll logs. I cut a limb or sapling to use as a lever/handle, slip one loop on it(bout a foot from the end), the other on a stub of a limb left on the log I want to roll, snug it up so everything is tight with the chain stretched about a third of the way around the log then while pushing to keep the chain tight, lift the lever to roll the log.

If there are no limb stubs I use the tip of the saw to bore a small slot, with the grain, in the log that the bit of my ax can be pounded into and loop the chain around the ax head.


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## ReggieT (Nov 25, 2013)

woodchuck357 said:


> I sometimes use a short length of small chain with loops in the ends (made with quick links) to roll logs. I cut a limb or sapling to use as a lever/handle, slip one loop on it(bout a foot from the end), the other on a stub of a limb left on the log I want to roll, snug it up so everything is tight with the chain stretched about a third of the way around the log then while pushing to keep the chain tight, lift the lever to roll the log.
> 
> If there are no limb stubs I use the tip of the saw to bore a small slot, with the grain, in the log that the bit of my ax can be pounded into and loop the chain around the ax head.


Awesome...


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## ReggieT (Dec 4, 2013)

ReggieT said:


> I do quite a bit of cutting by myself...and I've been looking at various log lifters with heavy duty handles.
> I've also been looking at some lightweight chain attached log skidders to pull logs out of the woods or out of the rough spots.
> These would seemingly help my back & workload tremendously...here's what I'm considering: Timber Jack Log Jack Tool, Koch Log Jack, Columbus McKinnon 06238 Log Jack,
> Peavey Mfg 3-1/2' Timberjack, and the Timber Tuff TMB-65 Fiberglass Handled Timberjack.
> ...


*UPDATE JUST ORDERED THIS:* *60" Xtreme Duty Cant Hook FROM LOGRITE!!!! *


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## shutup-n-cut (Dec 4, 2013)

I am looking at the 60 inch handle logrite , never knew that they were made in my homestate of Ct. , who would have thought.
I for some reason can not log into the logrite website to see exactly what I am looking for. I do see on amazon that the 60 inch goes for around 120.00 ; does anyone know if this the same as the one by Stihl , I know that the Stihl ones are mfg by logrite but are they both considered the extreme duty version. My Stihl dealer has the 60 inch for $119.99 and I can get 10% off of that. Is there a place to get a logrite at a decent price. If pricing is about the same I might just go with the one from Stihl. I don't mind supporting my local dealer once and a while , besides I am partial to overpriced orange paint.


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## ReggieT (Dec 4, 2013)

shutup-n-cut said:


> I am looking at the 60 inch handle logrite , never knew that they were made in my homestate of Ct. , who would have thought.
> I for some reason can not log into the logrite website to see exactly what I am looking for. I do see on amazon that the 60 inch goes for around 120.00 ; does anyone know if this the same as the one by Stihl , I know that the Stihl ones are mfg by logrite but are they both considered the extreme duty version. My Stihl dealer has the 60 inch for $119.99 and I can get 10% off of that. Is there a place to get a logrite at a decent price. If pricing is about the same I might just go with the one from Stihl. I don't mind supporting my local dealer once and a while , besides I am partial to overpriced orange paint.


I shopped around all over the web & local...and that price you have is pretty competitive.


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## SierraWoodsman (Dec 4, 2013)

I like the wood chuck timberjack. Better than others I've used, and can handle bigger logs.


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## demc570 (Jan 8, 2014)

zogger said:


> I sledge hammer in small rounds with a slanty wedge cut on one side. Takes 5 to 10 seconds tops, nice clean cut then. Log doesn't have to be up much at all to get a no pinch cut. that and a plastic wedge at the top for larger logs. Put them right where you want your bucking cut to go, or close to it on the still heavy remaining side. I like right there though, makes it easier to knock them out and move them up the log if needed.
> 
> 
> Unless the ground is complete soup, you'll get enough lift to make bucking easy, and no need to try and roll huge logs that way. Smaller ones, sure, cut down 3/4ths, roll and finish, but larger ones, I find the small round lift wedge technique to be the easiest/cheapest/fastest..
> ...


still not understanding this technique? to cut big logs with the wedge method you describe? any help to help me understand what i think your saying?


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## zogger (Jan 8, 2014)

demc570 said:


> still not understanding this technique? to cut big logs with the wedge method you describe? any help to help me understand what i think your saying?



OK, say you got a big tree on the ground. Well fiorst, you can cut junk logs nearby and lay them out for the eventual big tree main stem to land on.

OK2, either way, say you have the main stem on the ground. In the smaller branch wood while bucking that, cut off with slanty cuts, like at a 45. Then go your regular cut size and do a regular 90. Now you have a round which is flat on one side to hit with the sledge, the other side is beveled at an angle to help get it started under the main log. Stick it where you want it and wail away. 

Procedure to get lift wedges two at a time:

Cut square, then one slanty cut, then cut square going down an appropriate sized branch, gives you two wedges. Repeat as necessary to get you all the wedges you want, and you can start with around a 3-4inch one, go bigger if necessary, but they get harder to hammer in. You can make the slanty cut side longer and a sharper angle if needed over a 45 of course. 

I----/----I See?


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## demc570 (Jan 8, 2014)

zogger said:


> OK, say you got a big tree on the ground. Well fiorst, you can cut junk logs nearby and lay them out for the eventual big tree main stem to land on.
> 
> OK2, either way, say you have the main stem on the ground. In the smaller branch wood while bucking that, cut off with slanty cuts, like at a 45. Then go your regular cut size and do a regular 90. Now you have a round which is flat on one side to hit with the sledge, the other side is beveled at an angle to help get it started under the main log. Stick it where you want it and wail away.
> 
> ...


lol.....i must be stupid,still not understanding it in my head sorry........thanks anyway you tried


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## zogger (Jan 8, 2014)

demc570 said:


> lol.....i must be stupid,still not understanding it in my head sorry........thanks anyway you tried



Normal small log you wouldn't split, say 3-4-5 inches diameter. One end is cut at an angle so it is wedge shaped. That end goes under the big log, the flat end you hit with the sledge hammer. As you whack it, it gradually goes under and lifts the log, giving you clearance to cut, plus relieving tension if you cut right down the middle to that lifter wedge round.


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## demc570 (Jan 8, 2014)

zogger said:


> Normal small log you wouldn't split, say 3-4-5 inches diameter. One end is cut at an angle so it is wedge shaped. That end goes under the big log, the flat end you hit with the sledge hammer. As you whack it, it gradually goes under and lifts the log, giving you clearance to cut, plus relieving tension if you cut right down the middle to that lifter wedge round.


i was thinking that but wasnt sure,i such idiot,thank you for your patients.....i got it.....cool idea!


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## zogger (Jan 8, 2014)

demc570 said:


> i was thinking that but wasnt sure,i such idiot,thank you for your patients.....i got it.....cool idea!



It works really well. About three years ago or so I had a little post with some pics showing this, but that's all gone now.


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## gunnusmc03 (Jan 9, 2014)

Dalmatian90 said:


> Stihl Orange paint is quite expensive. Must come from Germany
> 
> In it's natural Blue paint, they're not as expensive, though probably more than the tools Reggie's looking at. I have the Peavy w/log stand. They're made about 40 miles west of me and I bought mine from the owner of the company
> 
> ...


The stihl is just about the same price as the logrite. It's just a private labeled logrite.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 9, 2014)

A cant hook is so simple to make I would only buy one if the price was less than I make in a few minutes.


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## Hermio (Aug 22, 2017)

SierraWoodsman said:


> I like the wood chuck timberjack. Better than others I've used, and can handle bigger logs.


Amen to that! I know this is an old thread, but I have had my woodchuck for only a year. It is the best I have used, out of 3.


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