# Tool to raise logs off ground for sawing! (log jack)



## Billy_Bob (Oct 6, 2006)

I don't know why no one in my area uses one of these or told me about this, but I sure found a dandy tool for cutting logs for firewood. It is called a "Timberjack" or "Log Jack".

I found it by accident. I went to a local logging store to buy a peavey (to help me roll large logs around) and next to the peaveys was this log jack tool. I bought one as well as a large peavey (to move the larger logs found in my area).

Well I went out to the woods today to cut firewood. There is a large pile of logs on the ground where I went. I was able to use the log jack as a peavey to easily roll a log away from the others so I could safely cut it...

*AND* I was also able to use this tool to easily raise the log a little off the ground so I could make cuts without my chain touching the ground or needing to saw part way through, rotate, and then finish the cut.

I just zipped through my work! I would guess this cut my sawing time in half or sure seemed like it!

The only thing is that we have quite large diameter logs around here and I heard the wood handle creaking a bit while lifting a small 17" diameter log. I don't know if this would hold up for use with a large 36" diameter logs or not?

Needless to say I am quite happy with my purchase. Here is a picture of a log jack (Timberjack)...
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/561?mv_session_id=czWkaxsX&product_sku=15810

Also I found this interesting page on cant hooks and peaveys...
http://www.ruralheritage.com/logging_camp/peavey.htm


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## Ekka (Oct 6, 2006)

Good idea.

I suppose you could always swap out the handle for a steel pole, maybe longer too.


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## RoosterBoy (Oct 6, 2006)

i bought the northerntool timber jack and i broke the jack part i swear on the first log ;-) i could weld it but now i just use it as a pevey to role logs and Evan at that it sucks because it just dose not hook and stick into the log it slides on me

i may grinde down the hook so it sticks into the log better

thanks
Jason


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## Butch(OH) (Oct 6, 2006)

I purchased a similar tool last fall and found that it's practical applications are limited. When the ground is soft, leave it in the truck as it sinks instead of lifting. If the log is crooked leave it in the truck too. With straight logs and hard ground it realy saves the ole back, time and chains


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## windthrown (Oct 10, 2006)

*firewood cutting*

I still cut firewood the old fasioned way off the log pile. Or I use the tractor bucket to lift them off the ground and prop a cut long under it, then cut. Or 1/2 cut and then roll logs and cut the rest keeping the bar/chain off the ground. Some of the trees and logs that I cut are way too large to deal with by hand, or with hand tools. Have to use the tractor. :biggrinbounce2:


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## Haywire Haywood (Oct 10, 2006)

It looks like the "log rite" peaveys on Bailey's have aluminum handles and you can get a timberjack attachment for them too. You can drop a hundred $ on the combo pretty easily tho... they're pricey. I'll end up with one of the wooden handled ones because of cost and the logs I deal with max out at about 18" but the norm is around 12".

Ian


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## Patrick62 (Oct 11, 2006)

*I like them slightly modified*

The handle on mine is something like 3 1/2 ft. There is also a shorter 3 ft version out there as well. The mods are as follows:

The opening is a little small, and the effective lift is about double what is needed. Cut about half the leg part that fits the cant hook. Drill a hole and now you have about double the leverage. Use the piece you cut off to lengthen the hook end, and then make new "teeth" for it. I used some 1/8 plate and filed/shaped it to a decent angle.

Result is that I can lift a 20" log, and still have enough room to stay out of the dirt while blocking.

-Pat


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## EastwoodGang4 (Oct 14, 2006)

RoosterBoy said:


> i bought the northerntool timber jack and i broke the jack part i swear on the first log ;-) i could weld it but now i just use it as a pevey to role logs and Evan at that it sucks because it just dose not hook and stick into the log it slides on me
> 
> i may grinde down the hook so it sticks into the log better
> 
> ...



I bought the same one only I didn't break mine. But i did have the same problem with the hook not sticking very well. i was going to grind mine down a little to define the hook a little more. let me know how well yours works after your mods.


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## NORTHERN NYer (Oct 15, 2006)

I bought 2 of the timberjacks last year form Northern. I gave one to my dad for Christmas and kept one for myself. Mine bent when I tried to lift a log I didnt know was frozen to the ground. My dads also bent or broke too. I am going to slip a piece of thick wall pipe over mine and weld it on so it wont bend so easily. I ended up making my own out of some scrap hardened shafting I scavenged from work. I have yet to find a log that comes close to bending this one, 24" is usually the biggest stuff I am cutting anyhow. I had trouble with the hook grabbing on both of mine when I first started using them. All I do now is give the hook a kick with the heel of my boot or use a 3lb hammer and give it one whack at the point to get it to bite. It usually doesnt take much to get it to grab.


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## JAL (Oct 15, 2006)

RoosterBoy said:


> i bought the northerntool timber jack and i broke the jack part i swear on the first log ;-) i could weld it but now i just use it as a pevey to role logs and Evan at that it sucks because it just dose not hook and stick into the log it slides on me
> 
> i may grinde down the hook so it sticks into the log better
> 
> ...


I had the same problem with a Pevey( actually the point came out) so I modified it so that I can roll the logs. I deal with a lot of maple and ash up to 40" and just roll the log onto wedges to get it off the ground for bucking. I have broken the wooden handle two times in about 10 years.

View attachment 38927


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## ironpig70 (Oct 15, 2006)

i just cut my wood off the pile as well. i just got my baileys catalog so i may need another tool:biggrinbounce2: neighbor works for a mill and he brought over a "pickerone"(sp) and like always i was like what is that for. well that was a month ago i'm going to have to buy one of those also.


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## Finnbear (Oct 16, 2006)

I screwed up and bought one of those junk Northerntool log jacks too. The hook is cast and not forged like a good cant hook and the first big log you try to muscle over with it will break the spur off and it will be useless except as an overpriced club. Do yourself a favor and buy a good cant hook with a forged hook or a LogRite and their timber jack attachment.
Finnbear



RoosterBoy said:


> i bought the northerntool timber jack and i broke the jack part i swear on the first log ;-) i could weld it but now i just use it as a pevey to role logs and Evan at that it sucks because it just dose not hook and stick into the log it slides on me
> 
> i may grinde down the hook so it sticks into the log better
> 
> ...


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## Rleonard (Oct 19, 2006)

Sotz used to sell a "Log Lifter". Their version of a cant hook with a lifting foot. They work well. I've had mine for ~20 years.

Bob


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## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 19, 2006)

Anybody tried one of these on big rounds, say, 36" diameter? And maybe 24" long?

I've got a bunch that go from 12 inches up to that size, and most are a tad long for my stove. I need to trim a to about 18".


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## tawilson (Oct 22, 2006)

With some inch or inch and a quarter schedule 40 or thicker pipe, I bet you could make one like mine that would do the trick. Maybe a longer handle.


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## Haywire Haywood (Oct 22, 2006)

roll them up on a couple of 4x4s that are notched so they don't roll back off.

Ian


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## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 22, 2006)

tawilson said:


> With some inch or inch and a quarter schedule 40 or thicker pipe, I bet you could make one like mine that would do the trick. Maybe a longer handle.




Hmmm. I've got the pipe. Inch and a quarter AND inch and a half. Courtesy of a remodeling job in the office building where I work. I shamelessly scrounged a bunch that was tossed in the dumpster.  

Just like I shamelessly scrounged a bunch of brand new conduit (one inch and 2 inch!) that was tossed in the dumpster, and a few nice solid core doors (nice benchtops), _and_ a few hundred feet of 1/2"AC Flex Conduit, in various lengths (mostly 20' and longer), enough to wire my shed into a respectable shop. :hmm3grin2orange: 

But I have'nt been able to scrounge a welder yet!


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## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 22, 2006)

Haywire Haywood said:


> roll them up on a couple of 4x4s that are notched so they don't roll back off.




I do, but it would be easier (I think) just to jack them where they are...


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## James_Mio (Dec 7, 2010)

There's a new version over here in the UK called LogJack in case anyone's interested?

It was designed in the 1950's by our boss-man's dad, and has been tweaked and modernised a bit.


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## iowa (Dec 7, 2010)

I've built at least 5 of these for guys at work. Several of us burn wood here.


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## Marine5068 (Dec 8, 2010)

Peavys and Cant Hooks have been around for a long long time and are used professionally at log mills. Not sure how long the log jacks have been in use but I imagine quite a while.
Actually the Peavy was designed and forged in 1858 by Joseph Peavy, a blacksmith from Stillwater Maine. He made a rigid clasp to encircle the cant dog handle with the hook on one side. It moved up and down, but not sideways. All loggers have used it ever since.
Check out these puppies at the attached link. 
Very unique brand of professional logging tools with aluminum handles.
http://store.logrite.com/


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## flyfshrmn (Dec 8, 2010)

*peaveys, cant hooks and log jacks*

I have several of these and find them indispensable when handling really big rounds and working on big trees. They're also very useful when working by yourself with a splitter. I have never managed to break a handle, even handling rounds as heavy as 1500 lbs. Two people, with two peaveys, can lift a round that size from flat on the ground to vertical. The biggest problem with them is that the hook has to really be set well to move heavy stuff. I like to set the hook and lift against the point, so it pulls the point further into the piece. I sharpen the hook points with a double cut file so they bite. Don't put a needle point on them; it will just dull quickly and bend. Shaft points also have to be sharp but not thin.

One of the best uses for the peavey is to break loose rounds that have been cut almost all the way through, but are lying on the ground. Set the hook and rock at about a 30 degree angle, back and forth, and they come right off the log. Also great for moving irregular pieces onto the splitter lift. Use the peavey to break off big rounds that might roll or endanger the cutter if they release suddenly. The handle gives you a lot more distance from the round.

The log jack is great for working around stuff on hard or rocky ground where you absolutely don't want to stick your saw bar in the dirt. And it works well with jackstraw piled wood, to move a piece up and cut it to free from the pile. They're easy to fabricate from scrap pieces and pipe and if you have a welder, very easy to build and a lot cheaper than buying them retail. I've made several of them, using old car jack handles for the hook. I build them so the lift will move the log about 4 inches off the ground. If you work in soggy stuff, you can flatten out the lift bottom so they don't sink into the mud as much. Or put a flat piece of wood under the jack portion.

I have a short handled peavey that I use around the splitter. It's especially handy for rocking jammed pieces off the wedge. A lot safer than swinging a sledgehammer at your splitter.


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## Marine5068 (Dec 8, 2010)

Great stuff Flyfisher.
Awesome info and thanks for the tips and such.
I guess I should build a log jack....It's going on my welding-to-do list now.
I'll need one of each if I keep getting large log cuts from all of my friends and neighbours.
By chance do you have any pics of the log jacks you've built? Just so I have some ideas to start with.
Thanks again. Gettin' Good reps for this one.
~Stan


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## branchbuzzer (Dec 8, 2010)

I usually use a peavey rather than a jack, most of the time rolling logs over is enough to finish cuts.

Peaveys come in handy moving large sawlogs around, especially in areas where machines can't get in. They are nice for 'spinning' logs to help get them down steep hills and around obstacles by turning one end of a log while blocking the other.

A neighbor has one that's been in the family for close to 100 years with a supposedly original hickory handle.


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## Sandhill Crane (Dec 8, 2010)

I understand not wanting to spend a lot of money on a specialty tool for occasional use. Then I ask myself a couple of questions. Will the cheaper tool hurt me if it fails? Is it an occasional use or a seasonal use tool? If it is a seasonal tool, a quality tools cost can be rationalized over a number of years. In the case of a cant hook and peavey I bought Log-Rite's with 48" handles and a foot or leg stand. I enjoy using them, and therefor, use them more often, which to me means I'm working safer, cleaner (keeping the chain out of the dirt), with longer chain/bar life. More often than not I do multiple cuts and roll a log to finish it. The log stand must be repositioned often and settles in soft soil, as others have said. Many times I have wished I'd gone with a longer handle on the cant hook.


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## flyfshrmn (Dec 9, 2010)

*log jack*

Don't have pix right now. I've given away the ones I have here at the house and my others are at my other place up north. Will get pix and post next time I'm up there.

Use a pic of a wooden one for a template. For the hook, I go to the wreck yards or ask around for old jack handles with the lug wrench on one end. Cut to length and form the hook on an anvil. Grind the point to a wedge shape and temper. I also like to lightly temper the hook once it's formed so it doesn't straighten under load. Weld two flat 1/4 or 5/16 pieces to a black pipe handle of the proper length. I'm using 3/4" heavy wall black pipe. I don't go over 3 1/2 feet - longer than that and you start bending the handles or the hooks if you try to pick up something too heavy. Drill the flat pieces for the pivot pin. I usually cut them so they are elliptical with the wide part at the top for pin placement. Flatten the pin end of the hook slightly and drill for the pin. Weld the jack piece out of small sections of pipe, then weld it to the handle. This is the weakest part of the jack, at these welds, so take your time and get good penetration and good welds here. I'm still trying different methods of attaching the jack to get a strong joint. Once it's all done, I clean all the rust off and primer with a rust inhibiting primer paint. Don't cap the ends of the jack or the handle. You want them open, so they will dry and not corrode after getting wet.


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## woodbooga (Dec 9, 2010)

branchbuzzer said:


> I usually use a peavey rather than a jack, most of the time rolling logs over is enough to finish cuts.
> 
> Peaveys come in handy moving large sawlogs around, especially in areas where machines can't get in. They are nice for 'spinning' logs to help get them down steep hills and around obstacles by turning one end of a log while blocking the other.
> 
> A neighbor has one that's been in the family for close to 100 years with a supposedly original hickory handle.



I got one of them oldie peavies. Damn fine tool. I've heard tell of these logrites. Interesting concept. Prolly works good. Mine peavey costed $5. I heat with wood to save money, bottom line. I like good tools, but the $20, $40, $60 equipment purchases add up after awhile. Save circa $2000 in coin annually heating with wood. It would kind of take the edge off from that bottom line were I to go too deep into equipment that would be nice to own but not absolutely necessary.


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## branchbuzzer (Dec 9, 2010)

woodbooga said:


> I got one of them oldie peavies. Damn fine tool. I've heard tell of these logrites. Interesting concept. Prolly works good. Mine peavey costed $5. I heat with wood to save money, bottom line. I like good tools, but the $20, $40, $60 equipment purchases add up after awhile. Save circa $2000 in coin annually heating with wood. It would kind of take the edge off from that bottom line were I to go too deep into equipment that would be nice to own but not absolutely necessary.



I've been trying to find one by looking in junk stores and antique shops. Not many people know what they're used for, so I might just find one collecting dust.


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## flyfshrmn (Dec 10, 2010)

*peaveys and log jacks*

I'm always on the lookout for older ones and in fact, my big one came off of ebay as an antique tool. It was a bit rusty, but cleaned up well and I paid a premium price for the hickory handle, which is six feet long. I don't know how old it is, but it still works well. I don't mind paying extra for good tools. I've had all of my store bought peaveys and log jacks at least five years, most much longer and while initially expensive, their overall cost amortizes down to negligible amounts over a lifetime of cutting wood. They're well worth the cost for what they save in labor, wear and tear on chains and bars, and your back and legs and they make dangerous work safer. The older I get, the more I like levers and hydraulics and peaveys are very well designed levers.


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## Upidstay (Dec 13, 2010)

I was just about to post about these tools when I found this one. Been thinking about getting one of these for a while now. I'm not afraid to spend some extra dough for a good tool. Will steer clear of the Northern tool model


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## WetBehindtheEar (Dec 13, 2010)

I bought the Timber Tough steel timberjack @ TSC. It was $40-odd dollars and helped a lot with a big pile of logs recently. 
http://www.tractorsupply.com/outdoo...s/timber-tuff-steel-handle-timberjack-3990131 

It is all steel and did ok. The jaw portion didn't always 'grab' the wood so I sometimes had to give it a light 'kick' to seat the spike into the bark. 

All logs were around 15' long and at least 10" in diameter. Some were as big as 24" and I didn't try with those - I just cut 90% through and THEN grabbed with the timberjack to roll it 90degrees. I never tried to lift from the middle of the logs either - always on the end. I would get two, maybe three cuts and move the jack further down. 


Here's a thread about what I did recently - the second photo in the first post shows the timberjack leaning up against the tree to the right of my buddy who was on the pile. 
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=2555075#post2555075


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## indiansprings (Dec 13, 2010)

We've made our own log jack with inch and a half pipe, we made our foot 14" long and put a eight foot long handle on it. It will lift all that two of you on the handle can lift. It's a real time saver on the logs we just can't roll.


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## Dalmatian90 (Dec 13, 2010)

> I'm not afraid to spend some extra dough for a good tool.



Upidstay -- the LogRites are made in Vernon.

I bought mine at a local show from the owner of the company, if you live in central CT you probably could buy one right at the factory to save the UPS shipping charge.


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## Brazer (Apr 29, 2013)

*Homemade log jack*

Didn't want to spend any money, so I made my own.
I threw a couple of pieces of scrap iron together and made a nice log jack.
Handle is 1 1/4" pipe, 5' handle, double log bites in handle, and a nice big biting arm.
Tell me what you think. When you are like me 67, and a wore out body and back, you retire from
real work, and spend time putting around. I try to work smarter not harder.


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## zogger (Apr 29, 2013)

Brazer said:


> Didn't want to spend any money, so I made my own.
> I threw a couple of pieces of scrap iron together and made a nice log jack.
> Handle is 1 1/4" pipe, 5' handle, double log bites in handle, and a nice big biting arm.
> Tell me what you think. When you are like me 67, and a wore out body and back, you retire from
> real work, and spend time putting around. I try to work smarter not harder.



Looks better than my store bought one!


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## stihly dan (Apr 29, 2013)

Nice, How much is shipping?


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## Woody912 (Apr 29, 2013)

got my peavey minus handle for $12 on eBay. 6' handle came from the ash tree in my front yard (several more up there) handle has some curve it so I can go past parallel and it is about 3" in diameter so I can roll the log up on it it I need a log jack. Not the most versatile tool, this is for when I need to roll a big log or an entire tree that I am limbing


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## Brazer (Apr 29, 2013)

*Thanks guys*

Thanks guys. I was experimenting with a few ideas of how to make.
After seeing what's posted and what they sell, I figured I can make it better
I started with a little more height on the leg, and decided on about 8" high.
With the 2 sharp points on the handle bite, I can use on lighter logs, when placed on the points they don't move.
The shorter leg on foot gives me more leverage on up to 12"-16" logs, while still giving acceptable height off ground.
Never thought of shipping it anywhere.


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## stihly dan (Apr 29, 2013)

Oh, that wasn't made for me.


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## Hellbent (Apr 30, 2013)

Google "LSU log lifter plans" and there is a blueprint for one from the USDA plan service which has all sorts of plans for farmers and rural folks. It uses a 9' piece of 1" sch 40 black pipe IIRC. I have made several of these and they work really well. They will handle some pretty good size logs and can be used somewhat as a peavy. They also sit back and hold the tree up for you really well. Probably set you back 20 bucks and can be made in most any garage shop with a welder. If you need a heavy duty one just supersize it with heavier materials. 

I will tell you I think there is some proper proportion to the "hook" and "jaws" to get it to work really well.

If you have any questions feel free to ask... I'm a metal shop teacher and certified welder.

Hellbent


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## cmsmoke (Apr 30, 2013)

I have the Northern Tool one with the fiberglass handle. I thought I should have broken it long ago, but it is now about 4 years old. I don't lift anything too big, they get rolled and then cut the rest of the way. For rolling logs it works just fine and I think I have overtaxed it many times. The only thing that happened is the wedge bent slightly when I didn't have it engaged right and the foam handle cover needs to be glued on. Maybe they have changed or I have a different model than the others. I really hate when I pick it up wrong and the hook slams my fingers! (Big Dummy!) A simple stop would take care of that, but I always forget till it happens again!


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## deepsouth (Apr 30, 2013)

Here is an Australian design that looks good, and should handle weight....

Warialda Engineering :: Home of the Davis Starlifter

Don't own one and haven't used one (yet).


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## Huskyuser (Jan 23, 2019)

The "inexpensive" ones I've found don't look as if they'll take much abuse. 

The more rugged the design and the price goes way up.

Alternatively I designed and built my own.
.


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## Bobby Kirbos (Jan 23, 2019)

I've got one of these https://www.woodchucktool.com/timberjack

It works very nicely.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 24, 2019)

I bought this one:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200640336_200640336
It works and is very good at breaking logs loose from frozen ground. We have a lot of that these days. Just don't try to cut the steel components in half with a chain saw.

I had to make a few adjustments with the bolts and add some oil to the pivot, a piece of cake. That was about it. It's built like a tank.


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## trains (Jan 26, 2019)

deepsouth said:


> Here is an Australian design that looks good, and should handle weight....
> 
> Warialda Engineering :: Home of the Davis Starlifter
> 
> Don't own one and haven't used one (yet).




I bought a log peavy from Sneddens, got the 1.7mt one, and its well built out of great material, no chinese plastic steel on this.
They also make a log lifter too.
Log lifter https://ruralfencing.com/products/log-roller-lifter-firewood

Highly recommend their products, worth having a look at what they make.
T


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## Marley5 (Jan 26, 2019)

I should have looked here first, just started a new thread regarding this tool.
Sorry


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## Wowzer (Feb 1, 2019)

Huskyuser said:


> The "inexpensive" ones I've found don't look as if they'll take much abuse.
> 
> The more rugged the design and the price goes way up.
> 
> ...




Want to explain this a bit looks like some of the pieces slide for bigger and smaller stuff, looks like everything could be sourced from a scrap bin just normal pipe and angle correct or?


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## Huskyuser (Feb 2, 2019)

Wowzer said:


> Want to explain this a bit looks like some of the pieces slide for bigger and smaller stuff, looks like everything could be sourced from a scrap bin just normal pipe and angle correct or?



You my friend have a VERY keen eye!

I designed my Log Lifter so it could be disassembled for easy storage and transport. I also added some adjustability to the hook location and even added holes in case I wanted to fix its location.

Every piece you see was "rescued" from the metal scrap bin. 

The handle is 1" pipe. The leg supports are made using I believe 1 1/2 pipe, the hook is 3/4 rebar. I designed it using Solidworks and can post the drawings in PDF format if anyone would like them..


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## Wowzer (Feb 2, 2019)

Huskyuser said:


> You my friend have a VERY keen eye!
> 
> I designed my Log Lifter so it could be disassembled for easy storage and transport. I also added some adjustability to the hook location and even added holes in case I wanted to fix its location.
> 
> ...




I would be interested in that. Also interested in the fasteners you used, both sides Allen key roll pin kinda or? Almost looks like you could use some PTO style pins maybe instead of those?


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## Huskyuser (Feb 2, 2019)

Wowzer said:


> I would be interested in that. Also interested in the fasteners you used, both sides Allen key roll pin kinda or? Almost looks like you could use some PTO style pins maybe instead of those?



My first choice was those pins but had access to stainless steel hardware. All the bolts are 3/8-16 x 2 1/2 long Allen Socket Head Cap Screws. I'll get the files uploaded Monday, they're on my work computer.


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## Husky Man (Feb 2, 2019)

Huskyuser, that looks Nice, is there any reason that you can see after using it, that PTO style pins wouldn't work?

That would break down for storing and transporting very quickly with PTO pins.

That looks very well engineered


Doug


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## Huskyuser (Feb 3, 2019)

Husky Man said:


> Huskyuser, that looks Nice, is there any reason that you can see after using it, that PTO style pins wouldn't work?
> 
> That would break down for storing and transporting very quickly with PTO pins.
> 
> ...



I think the PTO pins will work nicely for that very reason. The next time I'm down to the Tractor Supply I'll pick some up..
.


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## rancher2 (Feb 4, 2019)

I have a Logrite that the wife bought me years ago for Christmas one year its a nice log jack. Haven't used it in years. Use the skid loader and grapple fork to buck wood.


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## Huskyuser (Feb 4, 2019)

Wowzer said:


> I would be interested in that. Also interested in the fasteners you used, both sides Allen key roll pin kinda or? Almost looks like you could use some PTO style pins maybe instead of those?



I created a PDF file of the lifter fully assembled. This will give you a decent idea of sizes, lengths, and general construction.

Enjoy!


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