# How & Why Do You Use Wedges?



## ePhoenix (Jan 13, 2008)

I understand the simple concept of using wedges, but I'm sure I must be missing something. About 11-12 years ago I saw another outfit taking down a tree near our job site. At first I didn't pay them any attention(as I'm not paid to stand around. LOL!), but the pounding noise caught my curiosity. I see they were pounding on the back of the tree and noticed something bright orange on the back side where the back cut is to be. I figured right off they were wedging the tree with the maul to push/lift the tree where they wanted it to go. This is the first and only time I've ever seen it done.

While watching the whole event, which seemed like forever, I wondered why didn't they just use a throwline to get a pull-rope onto the tree. I do it all the time and if/when the tree has branches too thick, I'll just have a climber go up and manually tie a rope high enough to get leverage to pull it over.

Are wedges still used today? I see they're sold in the mags, but I don't see their advantage or how/why they would be used.

Can you guys shed light on their uses so I can be enlightened as to their function?

Thanks,

ePhoenix


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## elmnut (Jan 13, 2008)

use them to keep kerf from closing and pinching your saw. for felling trees with little or no lean, prop open doors, etc


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## ePhoenix (Jan 13, 2008)

I like the idea about the saw not getting pinched.... especially when cutting a log on the ground. I often poke several sticks in the cut I'm making above my blade as I get deeper to prevent this from happening.

Thanks Elmnut for the reply.

ePhoenix


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## beastmaster (Jan 13, 2008)

Of course you should always put in a tipping line in a while felling a tree, but if there isn't any chance of doing damage to anything, you can use wedges to fell a tree in the direction you want it to go. On excurrent trees like pines and such, even with a little lean you can get it to fall in a different direction then the lean. A inch of opening in the gap from the wedge(you can stack them)will move the top of the tree several feet.


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## Mr.Roehler (Jan 13, 2008)

They're also nice when flushing stumps especially large stumps so the saw does not get pinched. This is where I use them most.


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## Bermie (Jan 13, 2008)

For preventing a saw pinch
For putting over a tree with a bit of back lean
For using in combination with a pulling line for a big tree
For holding open the cut when crosscutting large timber on the ground
For levering a top over way up in the tree when there is a bit of wind

I always have at least one in my pocket whether climbing or doing groundwork.


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## reachtreeservi (Jan 13, 2008)

ePhoenix said:


> I like the idea about the saw not getting pinched.... especially when cutting a log on the ground. I often poke several sticks in the cut I'm making above my blade as I get deeper to prevent this from happening.
> 
> Thanks Elmnut for the reply.
> 
> ePhoenix



Get rid of the sticks man, wedges are too cheap not to have a passle load of them.


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## clearance (Jan 13, 2008)

Wedges are a must in treework, especially removals. Why the rope if you can just fall it? What if the rope breaks and the tree sits back and closes your cut? My belt I use for falling has a bucking tape, an axe with a short handle and wedges, six of them. 

I use them to push trees over when falling, to keep my saw from pinching when I am bucking, all the time. Pheonix, I would suggest researching this topic a bit.


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## Canyonbc (Jan 13, 2008)

clearance said:


> Wedges are a must in treework, especially removals. Why the rope if you can just fall it? What if the rope breaks and the tree sits back and closes your cut? My belt I use for falling has a bucking tape, an axe with a short handle and wedges, six of them.
> 
> I use them to push trees over when falling, to keep my saw from pinching when I am bucking, all the time. Pheonix, I would suggest researching this topic a bit.



I think everything that i would say has been said. So, i second everything. 

Clearance where did you get your belt? Online or in the B.C?

Thanks Canyon


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## clearance (Jan 13, 2008)

Canyonbc said:


> I think everything that i would say has been said. So, i second everything.
> 
> Clearance where did you get your belt? Online or in the B.C?
> 
> Thanks Canyon



Its just an old fall restraint belt, it has a D-ring I clip my tape to, the wdges are in pouches, you can get them at most saw shops.


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## palogger (Jan 13, 2008)

*belt*

i use a padded belt that i got at lowes along with a set of suspender to distribute the weight, on it i carry a logger's tape, a wedge pouch with usually 3 wedges, an axe scabbard with a 2 1/2 lb axe for small stuff, otherwise i take the scabbard off and carry my 5lb axe.

clearance how do u carry ur axe on the belt?


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## Canyonbc (Jan 13, 2008)

palogger said:


> i use a padded belt that i got at lowes along with a set of suspender to distribute the weight, on it i carry a logger's tape, a wedge pouch with usually 3 wedges, an axe scabbard with a 2 1/2 lb axe for small stuff, otherwise i take the scabbard off and carry my 5lb axe.
> 
> clearance how do u carry ur axe on the belt?




So basically just a belt you would use for framing and carpentary, but one with suspeners...to help carry it. 

I like that idea the best.


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## palogger (Jan 13, 2008)

the belt doesn't have all the pouches, it was just a plain padded belt, if i get a chance tommorrow i will get a couple pics of it so u can see my set up, it seems to work the best for me. The guys i work with all have a little different setup, one example is i'm the only one with the axe scabbard and suspenders, and i forgot to mention i also have a file and scrench holder on the belt as well


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## clearance (Jan 13, 2008)

palogger said:


> i use a padded belt that i got at lowes along with a set of suspender to distribute the weight, on it i carry a logger's tape, a wedge pouch with usually 3 wedges, an axe scabbard with a 2 1/2 lb axe for small stuff, otherwise i take the scabbard off and carry my 5lb axe.
> 
> clearance how do u carry ur axe on the belt?



I just put it between my belt and my body,left side. I am not production falling, never that far from the truck. Often I stick it in the tree.


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## BC WetCoast (Jan 13, 2008)

clearance said:


> Wedges are a must in treework, especially removals. Why the rope if you can just fall it? What if the rope breaks and the tree sits back and closes your cut? My belt I use for falling has a bucking tape, an axe with a short handle and wedges, six of them.
> 
> I use them to push trees over when falling, to keep my saw from pinching when I am bucking, all the time. Pheonix, I would suggest researching this topic a bit.



Also Worksafe BC requires that a wedge be palmed into the backcut kerf as soon as possible when felling any tree over 8".


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## beastmaster (Jan 13, 2008)

I keep a small one on me while I work with a hole drilled thou the back(Plastic wedges)and a string. It really comes in handy chunking out big trees, and while bucking stuff up or stumping. A valuable tool.


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## Sprig (Jan 13, 2008)

Yup on all of the above +1 I don't climb, but do alot of bucking and keep at least one in my back pocket and palm it in if I have the slightest doubt of pinching my bar, so simple and easy and grief-saving.



 (and do a search there mon, been discussed before a fair bit)

Serge


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## ePhoenix (Jan 14, 2008)

clearance said:


> Why the rope if you can just fall it? What if the rope breaks and the tree sits back and closes your cut?



If I can "just" fall it, I usually just do. On windy days or when the lean is not in a favorable direction... or the tree can/may do substantial damage to adjacent property, like a $350,000 home nearby, I like the ease in which a tree comes over while manually pulling it over with a rope. Most trees I do only need a mild persuasion to get it where I want it. The rope is far better security to me than a plastic wedge sticking into the kerf. To me using rope to pull trees over is a very safe proposition. I've never used a wedge in my life to get a tree over, but since I'll be buying several sizes to use on the ground, the day may come when I'll "need" one to get a tree over. Time will tell.

As for pulling a tree and worrying about a rope breaking, I suggest to those wishing to do this to make sure they have a big bull rope, because the bull rope I use, my 2-ton truck can't get the traction enough to test the tensile strength of the rope. I pull most trees over manually using 1/2" older climbing ropes. For the big stuff, I use the big stuff.

Thanks y'all for the replies. Several of them I never considered what good a wedge is, so I appreciate the response.

Excellent! Thanks,

ePhoenix


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## BC WetCoast (Jan 14, 2008)

Sometimes a tree just needs a little persuasion, without the effort of setting a rope or you think the tree will go over so you don't set a rope and then it just sits there. Those are a couple of situations where a wedge is more convenient than a rope.

In industrial falling, ropes are never used only wedges.

Around here, $350,000 won't even buy the dirt, let alone a crack addict's shack on a lot. Average single family house is now 698K.


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## beowulf343 (Jan 16, 2008)

ePhoenix said:


> If I can "just" fall it, I usually just do. On windy days or when the lean is not in a favorable direction... or the tree can/may do substantial damage to adjacent property, like a $350,000 home nearby, I like the ease in which a tree comes over while manually pulling it over with a rope. Most trees I do only need a mild persuasion to get it where I want it. The rope is far better security to me than a plastic wedge sticking into the kerf. To me using rope to pull trees over is a very safe proposition. I've never used a wedge in my life to get a tree over, but since I'll be buying several sizes to use on the ground, the day may come when I'll "need" one to get a tree over. Time will tell.



Believe me, once you try out those wedges and see what they can do, you will start using them regularly. I grew up in a logging family so felling was always done with wedges. Didn't use ropes to pull over trees until i started residential. Still uses wedges every day though (both in the air and on the ground.) Used properly, they can be a nice compliment to a rope.


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## techdave (Jan 16, 2008)

*Why wedges?*

Hi ephoenix, I can see why roping is used when there is an obstacle like a house (our market is bout as crazy as Vancouver's) or a powerline.

Otherwise I look at it backwards compared to a residential guy since I learned in wildlands. So I see it as why waste the time to climb/throw/rig.?

For those of us used to it wedging is very fast and provides a good measure of whats up with the tree as the backcut progresses.


Perhaps the wedging they were doing with lots of pounding either meant a serious backlean, which would have taken a hell of a pull to overcome, or they did not knwo what they were doing. For trees with a heavy canopy, or over a foot or so or over say about 40 feet i just use a cut off sledge, goes easy if all the cuts are sized right AND the drivng rhytyhm MATCHES the trees natural movement!! Wedge is just a poor mans tree jack. Lots lighter and cheape, if a little less capable.

I keep two plastic wedges in a back pocket and one steel wedge in the front pocket for normal work in a residential setting with a clear landing. I just drive the plastics with the steel. Of course if there is a risk I use a throw line and tie off the top but its just insurance to keep the top from going backwards.

I saw an ekka vid where he pulled one over that was rotten, I can see why you all have to pull it sometimes. also fo ryou good climbers and throwers it probaly is fsster to just pull it.

But if you are doing big log felling and espoecially bucking around rocks on steep slopes with no equipment you pretty much going to have to wedge it to keep the tonnes of force from closing the kerf. It can get hairy during BUCKING trying to trip the last little bit of tab while staying out of harms way, the wedge makes it less likely that the bar will pich as she releases.

As for felling, like someone else said its just all wedged, no pulling. I might add that soem wedging skills are NEEDED to keep things on the lay, same for some special hinge skills.

Good question, good thread, dang now I want to go drop a big un!!


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## M.D. Vaden (Jan 16, 2008)

A good gust of wind can push a tree's weight opposite it's lean if it is leaning, too. So "lean" is not a reason to skip using them.

I'd like to see a video of these tree jacks I've read about. Never seen them used. But the specs sure show a lot of pushing power.


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## pbtree (Jan 17, 2008)

elmnut said:


> use them to keep kerf from closing and pinching your saw. for felling trees with little or no lean, prop open doors, etc



What he said!


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## ePhoenix (Jan 19, 2008)

Thanks again for the time sharing your experiences using the wedges and how they can be an adantage on my job sites. Without a doubt I'll be getting some.

As I'm sure many of you experience, sometimes you think a piece will go over easily to find out it's not agreeing either because of a sudden little wind or perhaps an imbalance in the canopy one didn't figure right... and having the wedge experience would be a big plus.

Thanks,

ePhoenix


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