# How many stump with a 120cc saw?



## Nailsbeats (Sep 24, 2011)

Been thinking, as always, about getting a 120cc saw for stumping a big wood. Was thinking about putting a 42" bar. 

I already have two 660's with 32" bars and a 394 with a 36" for this purpose, but can't help but think about setting up a monster just because I can and for sale's appeal and whatnot. That big pig is always impressive to the customer whether you use it or not.

Thoughts or experience?


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## lone wolf (Sep 24, 2011)

Nailsbeats said:


> Been thinking, as always, about getting a 120cc saw for stumping a big wood. Was thinking about putting a 42" bar.
> 
> I already have two 660's with 32" bars and a 394 with a 36" for this purpose, but can't help but think about setting up a monster just because I can and for sale's appeal and whatnot. That big pig is always impressive to the customer whether you use it or not.
> 
> Thoughts or experience?


 
I find the bigger the bar and chain the harder to sharpen what size stumps are you cutting?


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## no tree to big (Sep 24, 2011)

I'm the stump cut man on my crew I'll give my oppinon 

our saw lineup is as follows 192t/ ms260 18"/ 440 24" /660 32"/ 880 36" / and a dolmar 7900(for the cut man on the ground) 

the 660 I only use for stuff up to maybe 28" it just seems to cut way to slow and i end up using way more effort to get the saw through the cut then even the 440 in say a 40" cut plus the felling dogs on it just arn't big enough to get good leverage on it sometimes, yes chain is sharp and rakers are set properly. almost always I go straight for the 880 as long as you keep it sharp it just plows through the cut and I like to take the rakers practically off with the short bar(36"). we have a 48" bar for it that I have not used yet this season so I cant put my .02 cents on that, but from my experience being the cut man just from a production point of view and wear and tear on the body I'd say yes get a big saw with what ever size bar you want its a bit over kill in most applications but for those times where you wish you just had a bit more saw or to impress the hot chick watching in the window you have the option but I recommend if you do not normally wear ear plugs or muffs when using saws do so with the biggun because after running that baby wide open for a while your ears will ring for 2 days afterwords


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## Grace Tree (Sep 24, 2011)

3120? That's a lot of saw. My dealer had one used for cut offs at a saw mill. He knew the saw's history the price was right and it was tempting. I hefted that saw every time I went in the shop and in the end it just seemed to darn heavy and I bought a 395. A big bar sure would be impressive though.
Phil


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## lone wolf (Sep 24, 2011)

Small Wood said:


> 3120? That's a lot of saw. My dealer had one used for cut offs at a saw mill. He knew the saw's history the price was right and it was tempting. I hefted that saw every time I went in the shop and in the end it just seemed to darn heavy and I bought a 395. A big bar sure would be impressive though.
> Phil


 
I have a 3120 and it just sits there year after year.Are you trying to impress your self or the customer cant you cut stumps well with what you have what are they 6 feet wide all the time .Did you ever try to sharpen them damn chains?


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## thepheniox (Sep 24, 2011)

I'm really working on being a better person. The old me would make a comment about the size of something else. However my conselling is working wonders. It was close I really wanted to say it but I didn't.


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## lone wolf (Sep 24, 2011)

thepheniox said:


> I'm really working on being a better person. The old me would make a comment about the size of something else. However my conselling is working wonders. It was close I really wanted to say it but I didn't.


 
I just cut a 4 footer with an MS 440 no big deal


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## TimberMcPherson (Sep 24, 2011)

I climb on average once a fortnight with a 3120xp running a 28 inch bar. I have a couple 88's with bigger bars but if you want trunk blocking power, the 3120 is the step up from the 66 that the 66 is from the 44. Less likely to get jammed up with chips and get right through the block without jamming or using wedges etc.
I run up to a 50inch bar on the 88's, climbing with it isnt fun but on the big stuff its awesome, and compared to the 090 its a doddle.
I dont like heavy saws, but its all about production and ease on the climber and groundies. The saw weighs no more than any other once in the cut, and you can do smaller, ready to carry off property and easy to throw pieces fast.


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## thepheniox (Sep 24, 2011)

Lone wolf even the old me wouldn't question you. But getting a 120 cc saw to impress the customers?


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## lone wolf (Sep 24, 2011)

thepheniox said:


> Lone wolf even the old me wouldn't question you. But getting a 120 cc saw to impress the customers?


 
Not me man go back and read post 1 in total!


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## thepheniox (Sep 24, 2011)

Yes I did. That's what I was referring to. Not you.


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## troythetreeman (Sep 24, 2011)

i have a 3120xp with a 4' bar, i only use it a few times a year, but when i do i sure am glad i have it
i have also run several 88s, the 3120 cuts circles around every 88 ive ever used, it also seems to me to be balanced better, therefore easier to use on it side
it also has a hand oiler to give it extra lube in bigger cuts, something the 88 doesnt have
i got mine for basically 700$, i borrowed it from a buddy, he said sure, but it needs a tune up
i brought it into the shop, they said jug and piston are shot, 950$
i told my buddy, he said he wasnt going to fix it and i could do with it as i pleased
well by that time i was done with the job i wanted it for and so just took it home from the shop and left it set till i met a guy said hed fix it for 700$ and give me a 90day warranty
 i never _need_ it, but it does make the odd job a lot easier
and my husky dealer sharpens chains for 5$ each, any chain, lol


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## lone wolf (Sep 24, 2011)

troythetreeman said:


> i have a 3120xp with a 4' bar, i only use it a few times a year, but when i do i sure am glad i have it
> i have also run several 88s, the 3120 cuts circles around every 88 ive ever used, it also seems to me to be balanced better, therefore easier to use on it side
> it also has a hand oiler to give it extra lube in bigger cuts, something the 88 doesnt have
> i got mine for basically 700$, i borrowed it from a buddy, he said sure, but it needs a tune up
> ...


 
Love the deal on the sharpening!


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## Bigus Termitius (Sep 24, 2011)

Go for broke!


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## thepheniox (Sep 24, 2011)

I only have a 084av because I bought it from a friend for $350. I got it running real nice about 6 months ago. It looks real nice under my work bench. I use the 066 with the 32 inch bar for big stuff if I have too usually the 066 with the 24 inch bar is more than enough. Now with the cooler weather I might get the 084 on the Alaskan mill. I'm sure the deer and turkeys at the milling site are gonna be impressed.


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## lone wolf (Sep 24, 2011)

thepheniox said:


> I only have a 084av because I bought it from a friend for $350. I got it running real nice about 6 months ago. It looks real nice under my work bench. I use the 066 with the 32 inch bar for big stuff if I have too usually the 066 with the 24 inch bar is more than enough. Now with the cooler weather I might get the 084 on the Alaskan mill. I'm sure the deer and turkeys at the milling site are gonna be impressed.


 
I always had better results with 70- 90 cc saw stumps with 28 in bars


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## Pelorus (Sep 24, 2011)

I don't know if too many hot chicks are impressed with Neanderthals dragging their knuckles on the ground when they walk.
I honestly don't really mind the extra hour (or less) that it takes to finish a job using a 361 or 440 instead of a 660. My arms/body are tired enough at the end of the day. 

Longevity is the name of the game.
I help a fellow once in awhile who sells 350-400 face cord of wood/year. His biggest saw is a 361. He is currently 62 years old.
Just sayin'


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## Kottonwood (Sep 24, 2011)

I bought a 3120 as a spare head for my alpine magnum, I got a great deal on it used. Now that I have it I would never go without it. We have basically put the 660 away. We go straight from the 460 to the 3120. I love the manual oiler and having the ability to pull a big bar, though mostly the 36" stays on it. Sometimes I take that thing out even for small (30") stumps, it plows right through it no wedges needed. Also we use it for bucking anything over about 30". We usually have to cut pieces up small to get them out of backyards or fences. I can't even count the hours that saw has saved us since we got it. 

I haven't used it in the tree yet.... and probably never will. A 460 or max a 660 is just fine for me up there. On the ground the extra weight of the saw is totally offset by the amount of time you save in the cut. I would rather buck a big log with the 3120 than a smaller saw any day of the week.

Another thing is that I process all my wood for firewood, including big stumps. That saw is great for ripping big cookies and stumps in half.

....and it probably won't impress all the ladies.... but it might impress a few.


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## troythetreeman (Sep 25, 2011)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> I bought a 3120 as a spare head for my alpine magnum, I got a great deal on it used. Now that I have it I would never go without it. We have basically put the 660 away. We go straight from the 460 to the 3120. I love the manual oiler and having the ability to pull a big bar, though mostly the 36" stays on it. Sometimes I take that thing out even for small (30") stumps, it plows right through it no wedges needed. Also we use it for bucking anything over about 30". We usually have to cut pieces up small to get them out of backyards or fences. I can't even count the hours that saw has saved us since we got it.
> 
> I haven't used it in the tree yet.... and probably never will. A 460 or max a 660 is just fine for me up there. On the ground the extra weight of the saw is totally offset by the amount of time you save in the cut. I would rather buck a big log with the 3120 than a smaller saw any day of the week.
> 
> ...


 
ive had mine in the tree once for a crane job, 3 pick on some massive basewood, nice to be able to put it against the side of the tree, let it pull its way through to the other side and watch a 7600lbs log float away


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

Nailsbeats said:


> Been thinking, as always, about getting a 120cc saw for stumping a big wood. Was thinking about putting a 42" bar.
> 
> I already have two 660's with 32" bars and a 394 with a 36" for this purpose, but can't help but think about setting up a monster just because I can and for sale's appeal and whatnot. That big pig is always impressive to the customer whether you use it or not.
> 
> Thoughts or experience?


 
Title should read how often do you use 120 cc saw!


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## tree MDS (Sep 25, 2011)

My biggest saw is a 395. I mostly run a 28" bar on it (love that combo). I have a 36" and 42" for it too. it's a dog with the 42" though. I think a 3120 wouldn't get used enough to justify its purchase (for me).


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## Nailsbeats (Sep 25, 2011)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> I bought a 3120 as a spare head for my alpine magnum, I got a great deal on it used. Now that I have it I would never go without it. We have basically put the 660 away. We go straight from the 460 to the 3120. I love the manual oiler and having the ability to pull a big bar, though mostly the 36" stays on it. Sometimes I take that thing out even for small (30") stumps, it plows right through it no wedges needed. Also we use it for bucking anything over about 30". We usually have to cut pieces up small to get them out of backyards or fences. I can't even count the hours that saw has saved us since we got it.
> 
> I haven't used it in the tree yet.... and probably never will. A 460 or max a 660 is just fine for me up there. On the ground the extra weight of the saw is totally offset by the amount of time you save in the cut. I would rather buck a big log with the 3120 than a smaller saw any day of the week.
> 
> ...




This seems to follow my thinking as well. I rip a lot of rounds and the bigger the powerhead the better, same with blowing through those big stumps like you said. Any amount of time saved at the end of the job is money in your pocket.


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## Nailsbeats (Sep 25, 2011)

tree MDS said:


> My biggest saw is a 395. I mostly run a 28" bar on it (love that combo). I have a 36" and 42" for it too. it's a dog with the 42" though. I think a 3120 wouldn't get used enough to justify its purchase (for me).


 
What if you slapped a 42" on it though MDS, then it would be the 395 without the dog aftertaste, no?


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## Nailsbeats (Sep 25, 2011)

Heck, I would port a 90cc saw but I like the thought of the manual oiler. We usually pour some bar oil directly onto the bar in those big cuts, would be nice to have the manual switch.


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## stihl.logger (Sep 25, 2011)

when i run into some old growth i run my 880 with a 47" bar all day long, get kinda hard on the back and forearms but i feel like i get more accomplished at the end of the day. plus you cant feel like anymore of a man wielding that hoss around all day. power junky or ego trip, i havent figured it out yet


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

Nailsbeats said:


> Heck, I would port a 90cc saw but I like the thought of the manual oiler. We usually pour some bar oil directly onto the bar in those big cuts, would be nice to have the manual switch.


 
I think its easier to just dump oil on the bar then keep pushing the oiler


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## tree MDS (Sep 25, 2011)

Nailsbeats said:


> What if you slapped a 42" on it though MDS, then it would be the 395 without the dog aftertaste, no?



Probably would be pretty sweet. Unfortunately, there hasn't really been the need for anything that big around here lately. I would need a nice big $4500 tree (after a good year) to maybe get me thinking about a big dog. Almost bought one last year, but decided it would sit too much.


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## Nailsbeats (Sep 25, 2011)

tree MDS said:


> Probably would be pretty sweet. Unfortunately, there hasn't really been the need for anything that big around here lately. I would need a nice big $4500 tree (after a good year) to maybe get me thinking about a big dog. Almost bought one last year, but decided it would sit too much.


 
My bro has the 3120 with the 5' bar and it sits for weeks at a time, but when it's needed it is great. I just think I could get one and utilize it much more with a shorter bar, a 36" even.


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## Kottonwood (Sep 25, 2011)

Nailsbeats said:


> My bro has the 3120 with the 5' bar and it sits for weeks at a time, but when it's needed it is great. I just think I could get one and utilize it much more with a shorter bar, a 36" even.


 
that's how I roll. I like to run all my ground saws at the shorter end of their recommended bar length. If I am climbing with it I do just the opposite, I run them at the upper end of the spectrum. One of my groundies loves running the 66 with a 25inch. That thing slices through wood with a quickness.

If you are cutting things up small and have lots of cuts to make it is always nice to have a bigger saw. Not to mention when that ridiculous hundred inch stump comes around every now and a again you don't have to sweat it. 

I would never keep a saw sitting in the shop with a five foot bar on it.... I would keep the five foot bar sitting in the shop.


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## Kottonwood (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> I think its easier to just dump oil on the bar then keep pushing the oiler


 
Man, it sounds like you love doing things the hard way. Unless you have to carry that badboy through the woods all day, then I get what you are saying. For me the saw is in my truck until it gets within fifty feet of the tree I'm cutting.... so I will take the manual oiler and extra 30cc


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> Man, it sounds like you love doing things the hard way. Unless you have to carry that badboy through the woods all day, then I get what you are saying. For me the saw is in my truck until it gets within fifty feet of the tree I'm cutting.... so I will take the manual oiler and extra 30cc


 
The thing is with the crap gas now that the 3120 sits for a year at a time and that screws with the carb .I rarely use it .We do get big stumps but not every day.


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## Kottonwood (Sep 25, 2011)

Another good excuse to bust that badboy out of the garage! ...Or you could just run it dry everytime you use it.

That thing is a gas hog though.... that freaking tank takes like a half gallon.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> Another good excuse to bust that badboy out of the garage! ...Or you could just run it dry everytime you use it.
> 
> That thing is a gas hog though.... that freaking tank takes like a half gallon.


 
If you used it every day the price of all the gas would add up pretty good considering i am running Stihl HP Ultra oil too.


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

You all must have mostly small trees in your area:msp_smile:. I keep a 4' bar on my 090 av (150 cc I believe) and have a 5 and 6' for it as well. I use it all the time with the 4' bar on a weekly basis for bucking and stumping. It stumps better than the 880 (40" bar) as it has much more torque. My 660 (36" bar) like Timber said is a toy compared to these. I was lucky enough to just get in Fri. some upper AV mounts (090) I ordered and as they break periodically I ordered half a dozen of em. I bought the saw in 79. Who says Stihl makes all saw parts obsolete eventually? Hard to believe many of you run treeco's with such small saws. I could hang a 395 on the key ring to my pickup lol.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

Well they are between 2 and 3 feet on average at the very base so a 20 inch bar works most the time or a 28 when needed.It sure is easy to sharpen a 20 inch chain by hand and fast too.So what do you do when you keep hitting dirt in a stump resharpen the big gun every 5 minutes?I can sharpen a 20 inch chain in maybe 5 minutes or less depending on how hard its rocked.


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## Kottonwood (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> You all must have mostly small trees in your area:msp_smile:. I keep a 4' bar on my 090 av (150 cc I believe) and have a 5 and 6' for it as well. I use it all the time with the 4' bar on a weekly basis for bucking and stumping. It stumps better than the 880 (40" bar) as it has much more torque. My 660 (36" bar) like Timber said is a toy compared to these. I was lucky enough to just get in Fri. some upper AV mounts (090) I ordered and as they break periodically I ordered half a dozen of em. I bought the saw in 79. Who says Stihl makes all saw parts obsolete eventually? Hard to believe many of you run treeco's with such small saws. I could hang a 395 on the key ring to my pickup lol.


 

Yeah... unfortunately most trees I deal with are small, 30" or less. I definitely do the biggest trees in the area but I probably only do one a week that has a stump over 50". Usually a cottonwood, siberian elm, or maybe a silver maple. We don't have to many giants here in CO. luckily people here still plant cottonwoods.... I don't get it. I would love to get my hands on an 090 someday though... not that I need it.... I just want it


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## Kottonwood (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> Well they are between 2 and 3 feet on average at the very base so a 20 inch bar works most the time or a 28 when needed.It sure is easy to sharpen a 20 inch chain by hand and fast too.So what do you do when you keep hitting dirt in a stump resharpen the big gun every 5 minutes?I can sharpen a 20 inch chain in maybe 5 minutes or less depending on how hard its rocked.


 
I don't cut stumps low enough to hit the dirt. We are almost always grinding the stump anyways so I let the grinder do the extra work. And with this guy even the dumbest groundie can put a sick edge on a chain in no time. Bailey's - Pferd CS-X Chain Sharp Filing Guide - 7/32"


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> Well they are between 2 and 3 feet on average at the very base so a 20 inch bar works most the time or a 28 when needed.It sure is easy to sharpen a 20 inch chain by hand and fast too.So what do you do when you keep hitting dirt in a stump resharpen the big gun every 5 minutes?I can sharpen a 20 inch chain in maybe 5 minutes or less depending on how hard its rocked.


 
wasn't just referring to you lone wolf. Anyway....if you are very fussy about cleaning around the stump for dirt and rocks and stuff at grade prior to making the stump cut (I sometimes rake or blow) and then make a very accurate cut with a very sharp and straight cutting saw....no chain damage should occur. If you don't do that stuff you waste mass time and who cares how fast you can sharpen a chain by hand. 

Occassionally I have to sharpen my big saws and I have a Stihl chainsaw grinder for decades. This is a pro/experienced forum here...you gotta do stuff right and have the right tools.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> wasn't just referring to you lone wolf. Anyway....if you are very fussy about cleaning around the stump for dirt and rocks and stuff at grade prior to making the stump cut (I sometimes rake or blow) and then make a very accurate cut with a very sharp and straight cutting saw....no chain damage should occur. If you don't do that stuff you waste mass time and who cares how fast you can sharpen a chain by hand.
> 
> Occassionally I have to sharpen my big saws and I have a Stihl chainsaw grinder for decades. This is a pro/experienced forum here...you gotta do stuff right and have the right tools.


 
We seem to find dirt in the middle of stumps that are bad a lot around here.Are you cutting near towns or in the woods?We find a lot of metal and concrete too inside.


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> We seem to find dirt in the middle of stumps that are bad a lot around here.Are you cutting near towns or in the woods?We find a lot of metal and concrete too inside.


 
doesn't seem likely you would find dirt in the middle of stumps, not likely the boss would buy that one either lol.

usually you can see signs if there is concrete or metal in a stump, you just gotta look for em.

beyond that if you hit something you need to have the smarts to get off the saw immediately to minimize damage.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

Well I can tell you or your boss around here we find dirt in the base of stumps a foot off the ground anyone else see this?


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## flushcut (Sep 25, 2011)

What the hell get one.


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## Pelorus (Sep 25, 2011)

Longest bar I have is 24", and it has not been used on a saw in more than two years. Run either 18" or 20" on the 361 & 440 and 16" on the 260.
Sold my 066 and 660s to a logging buddy a few years ago with no regrets.

Have a vise mounted on fender of chipper = nice height for sharpening.
You guys cutting BIG wood with them long bars must spend a lot of time sharpening. I hate to rock even a little 20"chain, but then again, stump grinding with my tired Rayco is an inconsequential & non-advertised revenue stream for me. 
Whatever floats yer boat!


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> Well I can tell you or your boss around here we find dirt in the base of stumps a foot off the ground anyone else see this?


 
Don't have a boss. Just how do you figure this dirt gets up there? Tree does not transport dirt. Maybe you are confusing this with decay which should not dull your saw.


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## Nailsbeats (Sep 25, 2011)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> Yeah... unfortunately most trees I deal with are small, 30" or less. I definitely do the biggest trees in the area but I probably only do one a week that has a stump over 50". Usually a cottonwood, siberian elm, or maybe a silver maple. We don't have to many giants here in CO. luckily people here still plant cottonwoods.... I don't get it. I would love to get my hands on an 090 someday though... not that I need it.... I just want it


 
Yup, it's the Cottonwoods and Silver Maples that are the regular offenders here. 50" comes around on a regular basis. 

To me though it's not about the bar length, it's about the torque offered by the powerhead. Looking for that grind it out torque like Treevet has with his 090 for true stump ripping power.

I know the answer, just need to keep the eyes open.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> Don't have a boss. Just how do you figure this dirt gets up there? Tree does not transport dirt. Maybe you are confusing this with decay which should not dull your saw.


 
Bugs maybe I am not sure but I have seen it a lot.


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## Nailsbeats (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> Don't have a boss. Just how do you figure this dirt gets up there? Tree does not transport dirt. Maybe you are confusing this with decay which should not dull your saw.


 
Another one would be decayed fecal matter from animals living in the voids. That stuff can stack up, add some moisture and you'll have an ugly looking saw when you hit it. Leaves and nuts too will pack in and break down.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

Nailsbeats said:


> Another one would be decayed fecal matter from animals living in the voids. That stuff can stack up, add some moisture and you'll have an ugly looking saw when you hit it.


 
Triple trunk trees are the biggest offenders but i still see some in single trunk stumps.


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

none of that stuff nails mentioned should dull your saw except if you got kids tossing stones in crotches and cavities which happens sometimes. dirt a foot off the ground....uh uh


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> none of that stuff nails mentioned should dull your saw except if you got kids tossing stones in crotches and cavities which happens sometimes. dirt a foot off the ground....uh uh


 
Care to wager?


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## tree MDS (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> none of that stuff nails mentioned should dull your saw except if you got kids tossing stones in crotches and cavities which happens sometimes. dirt a foot off the ground....uh uh



I have heard coon poop can be a real PITA! :hmm3grin2orange:


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## troythetreeman (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> I think its easier to just dump oil on the bar then keep pushing the oiler


 
so dump oil on it, even without the hand oiler the 3120 out cuts an 88 hands down, granted ive only run the 1 3120, the one i own, but ive run 4 or 5 different 88s over the years


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

troythetreeman said:


> so dump oil on it, even without the hand oiler the 3120 out cuts an 88 hands down, granted ive only run the 1 3120, the one i own, but ive run 4 or 5 different 88s over the years


 
Depends on the wood diameter.


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## troythetreeman (Sep 25, 2011)

ive found small rocks high up in trees on numerous occasions, likely coons or squirrels
also cut hollow logs full of sand, how it got there is a mystery, possible result of the storm that brought it down. idk, but it was in the trunk which was still standing


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

troythetreeman said:


> ive found small rocks high up in trees on numerous occasions, likely coons or squirrels
> also cut hollow logs full of sand, how it got there is a mystery, possible result of the storm that brought it down. idk, but it was in the trunk which was still standing


 Thank You


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## thepheniox (Sep 25, 2011)

Nothing dulls a chain faster than an old bottle thrown in a cavity.


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## Grace Tree (Sep 25, 2011)

thepheniox said:


> Nothing dulls a chain faster than an old bottle thrown in a cavity.


 Yup, that and vitrified tile


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

Small Wood said:


> Yup, that and vitrified tile


 
A metal stake, or horse shoe, or even concrete will trash the chain beyond help.


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> A metal stake, or horse shoe, or even concrete will trash the chain beyond help.


 
still not buyin the dirt one foot up off the ground in wood. think you may be a novice. biggest thing that dulls a chain is a novice that does not properly aim the cut and does not check its progress through the stump in blind spots and just plain hits the ground. takes a little longer but worth it as does aiming the blade accurately.

that and an improperly sharpened chain that curves.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> still not buyin the dirt one foot up off the ground in wood. think you may be a novice. biggest thing that dulls a chain is a novice that does not properly aim the cut and does not check its progress through the stump in blind spots and just plain hits the ground. takes a little longer but worth it as does aiming the blade accurately.
> 
> that and an improperly sharpened chain that curves.


 
35 years my own business cut a couple hundred cords a year .You must be a novice if you never hit dirt higher than the ground and is Troy a liar or another novice?


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> 35 years my own business cut a couple hundred cords a year .You must be a novice if you never hit dirt higher than the ground and is Troy a liar or another novice?


 
Let's leave Troy out of this. You said you often hit dirt a foot above the ground while cutting a stump. Not buying it and furthermore,,,why you cutting a stump a foot above the ground?
I usually read the novice posts pretty well, guess I am wrong on that one.

Again, tree don't transport dirt....you got a multi stem co dom or a cavity you may hit decay but not dirt. We're not talking bottles, door bells, cannon balls, crete, spoons, fence, poles, water lines, etc. all of which I have hit.... but never dirt just contained in wood away from the ground a foot up.

Since you been cutting 35 years or whatever howscome you never got a big saw?:msp_confused:


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> Let's leave Troy out of this. You said you often hit dirt a foot above the ground while cutting a stump. Not buying it and furthermore,,,why you cutting a stump a foot above the ground?
> I usually read the novice posts pretty well, guess I am wrong on that one.
> 
> Again, tree don't transport dirt....you got a multi stem co dom orfot a cavity you may hit decay but not dirt. We're not talking bottles, door bells, cannon balls, crete, spoons, fence, poles, water lines, etc. all of which I have hit.... but never dirt just contained in wood away from the ground a foot up.
> ...


 
1 lets not leave Troy out for your sake he said he saw sand in a tree too
2 Why am I cutting a stump a foot above the ground a few good reasons maybe objects in the way maybe cause a smaller piece fits into the chipper the list goes on.
3Howcome you did not read the part about the 3120 or see it in my sig?
4Why do I need to answer to you?
5Why do you think you are better got a complex Napoleon?


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

*How come a know it all cant get anything to run what you need a dealer for?*

polechainsaw engines suck

Why can't someone put a great (read GREAT) engine on a polechainsaw? How about an ms200 engine or a tanaka engine or even a Husky (eeuucchhh) engine with some ass on a polechainsaw?

I have had a number of polechainsaws and all the engines have been dogs (ruff ruff). The two I have now you have to stand there and work the choke level back and forth (powerpruner/echo) mass times until it will run smoothly (with insufficient power). My employee has a new PP and his is the same.

I took it to the dealer and told my friend the mechanic I cannot set up the carb. He said they are very "touchy" to set up and after he did it it was a little better but quickly got worse.

Last time I tried a Stihl pp it was a dog and dropped a big steamer on the ground as well.
Original post by Treevet


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

where you from brother, NJ Pine Barons?

Take it easy, let's not get all exited.


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## troythetreeman (Sep 25, 2011)

heh, at a foot i would have missed it, at 8" not so sure, at 6" i know i would have got it and at the 2-3" where i cut it thinking id be safe, i found a lot of it, and it was, most definitely sand, not decayed wood and squirrel ####


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> where you from brother, NJ Pine Barons?
> 
> Take it easy, let's not get all exited.


 
Ok then show me the respect I would show you


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> where you from brother, NJ Pine Barons?
> 
> Take it easy, let's not get all exited.


 
Yes South Jersey.


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> We seem to find dirt in the middle of stumps that are bad a lot around here.Are you cutting near towns or in the woods?We find a lot of metal and concrete too inside.


 
Ok since you in the pineys I can buy a multi stem having sand blown in it but still can't buy it being inside the stump a foot up if not a multi. I used to climb for Shearer Tree out of Trenton/Princeton around 40 years ago. Ex wife has a house on Long Beach Island. All sand down there.

All little swamp oaks and pines through there


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> Ok since you in the pineys I can buy a multi stem having sand blown in it but still can't buy it being inside the stump a foot up if not a multi. I used to climb for Shearer Tree out of Trenton/Princeton around 40 years ago. Ex wife has a house on Long Beach Island. All sand down there.
> 
> All little swamp oaks and pines through there


 
Next one I will take a pic .I dont work in the pines its protected we work outside it Oaks ,Maples, Cherrys ,Walnut ,Hickory a lot of stuff.


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## Tree Pig (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> Don't have a boss. Just how do you figure this dirt gets up there? Tree does not transport dirt. Maybe you are confusing this with decay which should not dull your saw.


 
through decomposition and transference of minerals by birds and animals dirt can form in a crotch or stump that would be no different then on the ground and without doubt will dull a chain.


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## avason (Sep 25, 2011)

5Why do you think you are better got a complex Napoleon?[/QUOTE said:


> What's wrong with 5 foot 3....I'm doing ok! really i am!


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## treevet (Sep 25, 2011)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> through decomposition and transference of minerals by birds and animals dirt can form in a crotch or stump that would be no different then on the ground and without doubt will dull a chain.


 
The difference is ground dirt has pebbles and small rock in it and in his case sand that will dull the saw. Decomposed organic matter collected in the crotch would not dull a saw any more than wood would. You are patently wrong.

Still trying to get an answer as to how "dirt" is going to get in solid wood "1' above the ground". Got an answer to that?


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

avason said:


> What's wrong with 5 foot 3....I'm doing ok! really i am!


 
Noting at all till you call me a noob:msp_scared:


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## Tree Pig (Sep 25, 2011)

treevet said:


> The difference is ground dirt has pebbles and small rock in it and in his case sand that will dull the saw. Decomposed organic matter collected in the crotch would not dull a saw any more than wood would. You are patently wrong.
> 
> Still trying to get an answer as to how "dirt" is going to get in solid wood "1' above the ground". Got an answer to that?


 
the rock you talk about is MINERAL and that is what is transferred by birds and animals and the decomposing material essentially is no different then dirt. The mineral size may be smaller but it is still going to have an impact on your chain. It may not be as bad but it will impact it.


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## lone wolf (Sep 25, 2011)

Carpenter ants maybe


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## Slvrmple72 (Sep 25, 2011)

I run an 088 that I put a new piston and cylinder in about a few months after I bought it used. I run it with a 30" bar and a 48" Granberg Titanium bar. I love it and I hate it. Cutting with it I love it, sharpening it I hate it. I was taking down a 4 stem Silver near Portage Lake State Park and as I was cutting about a foot below the crotch hit a nice fist sized rock. My buddy and I looked at eachother after digging the blasted thing out and both of us just knew it had to be some kid that put it there years ago and the tree swallowed it. Like the long bar, no matching up cuts. Once and done. The noisy beast brings people out and gets me business. And yes it gets the womenfolk a little excited, go figure.


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## TimberMcPherson (Sep 26, 2011)

Lone wolf, your PM box is full!

We have a common hard wood native tree called pohutakawas (metrocidieous excelsia sp?) and if its a big stump the chances of cutting it through a foot from the ground without hitting pockets of abrasive matter are slim.

Dirt finds itself in weird places, we come across compressed dirt pockets above ground level often.


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## treevet (Sep 26, 2011)

TimberMcPherson said:


> Lone wolf, your PM box is full!
> 
> We have a common hard wood native tree called pohutakawas (metrocidieous excelsia sp?) and if its a big stump the chances of cutting it through a foot from the ground without hitting pockets of abrasive matter are slim.
> 
> Dirt finds itself in weird places, we come across compressed dirt pockets above ground level often.


 
damn those pockets of abrasives and carpenter ants at one foot above


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## lone wolf (Sep 26, 2011)

TimberMcPherson said:


> Lone wolf, your PM box is full!
> 
> We have a common hard wood native tree called pohutakawas (metrocidieous excelsia sp?) and if its a big stump the chances of cutting it through a foot from the ground without hitting pockets of abrasive matter are slim.
> 
> Dirt finds itself in weird places, we come across compressed dirt pockets above ground level often.


 
Now there is a man who cuts lots of Timber!


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## lone wolf (Sep 26, 2011)

treevet said:


> damn those pockets of abrasives and carpenter ants at one foot above


 
Maybe we should place a wager on this since you are so adamant?


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## lone wolf (Sep 26, 2011)

TimberMcPherson said:


> Lone wolf, your PM box is full!
> 
> We have a common hard wood native tree called pohutakawas (metrocidieous excelsia sp?) and if its a big stump the chances of cutting it through a foot from the ground without hitting pockets of abrasive matter are slim.
> 
> Dirt finds itself in weird places, we come across compressed dirt pockets above ground level often.


 
Try PM again should work.


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## treevet (Sep 26, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> Now there is a man who cuts lots of Timber!


 
doesn't call himself "Timber" for nuttin.:msp_smile:


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## treevet (Sep 26, 2011)

lone wolf said:


> Maybe we should place a wager on this since you are so adamant?


 
how bout you make a vid to show it.


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## lone wolf (Sep 26, 2011)

treevet said:


> damn those pockets of abrasives and carpenter ants at one foot above


 
Now you heard it from me ,Troy and Timber not good enough for you I will bet?


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## freeweight (Sep 26, 2011)

wow ,i wouldnt use a 120cc saw for anything less than a 5ft bar

we rarely need anything bigger than a 3ft on the 85

120cc saw is good for 2 things HUGE ass trees ,OR showing off

i found the 3120's dogs were just in the way ,they are huge


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## TimberMcPherson (Sep 27, 2011)

freeweight said:


> wow ,i wouldnt use a 120cc saw for anything less than a 5ft bar
> 
> we rarely need anything bigger than a 3ft on the 85
> 
> ...


 
Everyones different, but I hurt in spikes, so my rule is to get it done as fast as possible, and the 3120 blocks down faster than my 66's or 395 once the trunks over 22 inches. Its not the easiest saw to use but it gets the stick down asap and since we run small crews in bad access areas, if the blocks hit the ground in easy stair carryable sizes, it saves us a bucket of time.


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## flushcut (Sep 27, 2011)

freeweight said:


> i found the 3120's dogs were just in the way ,they are huge


 
Nah I like my dawgs wit teef


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## freeweight (Sep 29, 2011)

im sorry but i do not see a saw meant for plain torque for pulling a 6 foot bar/chain cutting fast


when we had the 3ft bar on the 3120 just did not go well

its like a guy with 7" pecker wanting 10" ..u already have enough size to get almost any "job" done (if u know what ur doin) but nooo u gotta have the biggest "####" at the urinal ....


i see this alot around here people buying stuff they dont really need ,HUUUUGE ass 4 door f750's.....just to pull a 6-10" chipper....with no more than 2 people 90% of the time in the truck ,bucket trucks with the extra 10' or so elavator with it and use more gas running around town ,and has no hope of gettinhg saw dust on it cuz its at car wash when its not being paraded around town 

yea buy a saqw that cost almost 2 grand to block trees that most likely a 372 (or anything like it) can do just as well and prolly easier


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## lone wolf (Sep 29, 2011)

freeweight said:


> im sorry but i do not see a saw meant for plain torque for pulling a 6 foot bar/chain cutting fast
> 
> 
> when we had the 3ft bar on the 3120 just did not go well
> ...


 I think you have a point I really dont use mine much .They are used rarely around here.


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## treevet (Sep 29, 2011)

freeweight said:


> im sorry but i do not see a saw meant for plain torque for pulling a 6 foot bar/chain cutting fast
> 
> 
> when we had the 3ft bar on the 3120 just did not go well
> ...



:monkey:


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## Kottonwood (Sep 29, 2011)

I can't believe you guys don't use your big saws more. I bust that bad boy out probably twice a week. Sure was glad to have it yesterday. We pulled this whole tree out through a 40" gate. That saw probably saved us over an hour vs the 660....

MOV028 3 - YouTube


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## Kottonwood (Sep 29, 2011)

freeweight said:


> im sorry but i do not see a saw meant for plain torque for pulling a 6 foot bar/chain cutting fast
> 
> 
> when we had the 3ft bar on the 3120 just did not go well
> ...


 

I totally get what you are saying with the trucks and carrying a 3120 in a tree.... but as far as cutting on the ground I'll take all the Horses I can get. I can't believe you don't like your 3120 with a 36" That chain never stops, you can just dig the dogs in and push it right through the cut..... It's like a woodcutting light saber. 


.....ok maybe not quite a light saber..... but now that I think of it I need a light saber


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## treevet (Sep 29, 2011)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> I totally get what you are saying with the trucks and carrying a 3120 in a tree.... but as far as cutting on the ground I'll take all the Horses I can get. I can't believe you don't like your 3120 with a 36" That chain never stops, you can just dig the dogs in and push it right through the cut..... It's like a woodcutting light saber.
> 
> 
> .....ok maybe not quite a light saber..... but now that I think of it I need a light saber


 
most stumps....one and done


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## freeweight (Sep 29, 2011)

yea it ate like a motha on the ground ,but the dogs for stump removal was just ALL wrong we sold the damn thing ...we used it 3 times twice with 6ft bar ,and once with the 3 ft ,i hated it with the 3ft bar ....now with the 6ft bar ...there was maybe 2 inches of the bar sticking out the other side and no the chain never stopped till throttle was let go ,i used this saw for the most part ,i DID NOT SEE any advantage over the 395 with 3ft ,actuall the 95 seemed faster and more easy to handle cutting from the side aswell (both with 3ft bars now)

i am REALLY happy i got to use a 3120 ,but anything less than a 5ft bar ,cmon stop showing off ,yea it sounds liike a dirtbike engine and u feel manly with it in your hand ,as im sure u would with thing betwen ur legs like john holmes but come on ,u can finsh the job with alot less pain with prob half the size or so....and not have the probs ...

yea i loved showing the pics off the saw to people ....but be realistic here ..its your ego thats getting the most of a HUGE saw 

keep it for large bars or just dont buy it you get to a stum with HIGH roots ,ittl just piss u off trying to use the 3120 for that


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## 2treeornot2tree (Sep 29, 2011)

I use my Stihl MS880 with a 41" bar. 404 chain reg chain. (not skip tooth). I also just bought a 30" bar for bucking logs up.


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## freeweight (Sep 29, 2011)

Facebook

yea i miss er


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## Nailsbeats (Sep 30, 2011)

treevet said:


> most stumps....one and done


 
Nice pic Vet, is that the 090? I gotta get my hands on one.:cool2:


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## treevet (Sep 30, 2011)

Nailsbeats said:


> Nice pic Vet, is that the 090? I gotta get my hands on one.:cool2:


 
yeah Nails. try to get an AV 090. non is a jackhammer.


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## Mr. Woods (Oct 3, 2011)

*pebbles in stump*

I cut a 30" poplar stump today. It had an old rotted branch 9" or so on one side. There was a pocket of dirt and pebbles the size of large peas about 12" off the ground. PITA. 
So one more vote for rocks in trees. 
For real.
Honest.


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## TimberMcPherson (Oct 4, 2011)

freeweight said:


> im sorry but i do not see a saw meant for plain torque for pulling a 6 foot bar/chain cutting fast
> 
> 
> when we had the 3ft bar on the 3120 just did not go well
> ...


 
You need to be shown how to use a 3120 efficently in a tree? No sweat, come on over. We have tested this out, had blocking races on matching trunks. 3120 wins, especially on the real knotty stuff. 

It gets chunks down faster in sizes that the guys on the ground can take straight out. Less waiting, no need to double cut or mess with a wedge or bar. Cut through, harness saw, push, downclimb, cut, harness saw, push, downclimb.
I wouldnt do it if it didnt work well.


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