# anyone built guide rails?



## oaktreeguy (Mar 17, 2017)

Looking at ladders on Craigslist, I don't see much that's also long (14'+) and cheap enough to warrant repurposing as a saw guide rail.

Anyone built one, maybe 16' 2x4s and 3 lengths of black pipe between them, etc.? 

Thanks for any ideas!


----------



## Bedford T (Mar 17, 2017)

I am at that point. I have decided to start with the end supports and decided on the g850 because of the channel construction. I am then thinking some for 2x4's. There are as many approaches as your imagination will conjure. Thinking lighter is better. Seen superstrut for the long runs, did not like for end supports.


----------



## Bedford T (Mar 17, 2017)

In fact the g850 diagram uses 2x4s


----------



## DonnerParty (Mar 17, 2017)

It's pretty tough to beat an aluminum ladder if you have any other use for it. I just take a ladder apart and put it back together after use. I have plywood cradles for the end of the log that fit the ladder perfectly and are cheap and easy to make.

Lots of other options, but the ladder is nice and light. If you use wood, it will have to be perfectly straight. Any imperfections will show up in your finished surface.


----------



## Bedford T (Mar 17, 2017)

The ladder is great. But it's harder to drag through the woods than 2 sticks. That is what I am shooting for. Easy.


----------



## BobL (Mar 17, 2017)

Using a 14"+ long ladder on a 6ft long log becomes a bit tedious. 
Using a narrow guide board for a wide log also leads to twists in the cut.
This is why I went for a two part set of log rails made from Unistrut.
I bought two 20ft lengths of Unistrut and cut these into 4 10 ft lengths and bolt these together at various widths and lengths using all thread rod.
Photos etc are in this post http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...101-hints-tips-and-tricks.93458/#post-1454512 there are also some examples of others in the Milling 101 sticky.

Yes they are heavy - I would not want to be lugging these too far though the bush.
I also use them on nearly every cut.
1) All the undersides of my mill rails are lined with HDPE so they glide easily over the log rails, much less friction than with a rough milled surface
2) The guide rails can be adjusted up and down to remove twist from a previous cut.
3) The log rails lifts the mill above the previous cut - this means I can place wedges and a hammer down on the cut surface before I start the cut - then as I go along with the nest cut I don't stop cutting to put in wedges.
4) The log rails provide a good place to perch the mill on at the start of the cut to start the saw and at the other end to allow it to cool down.


----------



## abbott295 (Mar 18, 2017)

BobL has said that, doing it again, he would make the Unistrut into 12 foot and 8 foot pieces for more flexibility in set-up with shorter logs.


----------



## Boogedy_Man (Mar 18, 2017)

I just use 2X4s. The first time I made a "ladder" out of them by putting the cross members sideways. I end up adjusting and changing stuff so much that I don't bother doing that anymore.


----------



## oaktreeguy (Mar 18, 2017)

Boogedy_Man said:


> I just use 2X4s. The first time I made a "ladder" out of them by putting the cross members sideways. I end up adjusting and changing stuff so much that I don't bother doing that anymore.


Thanks, how do you attach the 2x4s to the log?


----------



## Boogedy_Man (Mar 18, 2017)

I use a 2X4 screwed to each end of the log, and set the long 2x4s on top of that. If it's a long run and prone to sagging I put one on the middle also.


----------



## SeMoTony (Mar 21, 2017)

oaktreeguy said:


> Looking at ladders on Craigslist, I don't see much that's also long (14'+) and cheap enough to warrant repurposing as a saw guide rail.
> 
> Anyone built one, maybe 16' 2x4s and 3 lengths of black pipe between them, etc.?
> 
> Thanks for any ideas!


I started with ms170 on a beam maker kind of guide. Using straight boards for a rail convinced me to buy a rectangular AL tube. Heat and humidity don't cause it to move lighter than wood, stiffer and more stable IME
My ladder guides are from auctions. Google "auction zip"


----------



## rarefish383 (Mar 21, 2017)

I've found that the bigger,heavy ladders sell at auction cheaper than homeowner sized ladders. The only guy bidding against me on my 42 footer was trying to get it for scrap. Like Tony said, try "auctionzip" and look for an equipment auction. Estate sales with just one or two ladders aren't the best sales, you get one or two people fighting and run them up close to new price. Find a sale with 10-20 ladders and the first two or three sell individually, then they start making bundles to get rid of them. The scrap guy bidding against me wound up getting the other 4 ladders in my pile for $40. I paid $40 for just the one. A couple the scrap guy took were busted up, and they were all a bit shorter, Joe.


----------



## steve easy (Mar 22, 2017)

Used to use a pruning ladder. Now I use string line, lag bolts and a short board.


----------



## Picaso (Mar 22, 2017)

I use an aluminum ladder. Depends on the circumstances but that's still my goto. light and easy. When i use the mini mill i use a flattened 2x6 for the guide rail. 
. Never heard of anybody using fiberglass but why not if that's what you have.


----------



## htetreau (Mar 23, 2017)

I use galvanized, perforated angle and straight 2x4s for my initial cut. This affords me a wide support stance providing mill stability. First I orient the log so that my first cut is in a horizontal plane. Then I level each angle, and fasten to the log's ends with screws which enter the waste portion - no chance of hitting the screws in this orientation with the chain. Finally, the 2x4s are mounted to the tops of the angle and a final check with the spirit level guarantees no twist. It's a total of eight screws.

The first photo shows the setup on a short maple log while the second photo shows the mill ready to begin the cut.


----------



## oaktreeguy (Mar 23, 2017)

Htetreau, I love your mill. Would you mind posting some more pictures? I'm debating building vs buying and yours looks great. Thanks!


----------



## Johnnybar (Mar 24, 2017)

Make sure to build the ladder at least 1.5' - 2' longer than the longest logs you plan to mill. This might help:


----------



## Cabin by the Creek (Mar 30, 2017)

oaktreeguy said:


> Looking at ladders on Craigslist, I don't see much that's also long (14'+) and cheap enough to warrant repurposing as a saw guide rail.
> 
> Anyone built one, maybe 16' 2x4s and 3 lengths of black pipe between them, etc.?
> 
> Thanks for any ideas!


I built my own from 1-1/2" square tube 16 gauge. Cost about $50 for the steel. I didn't need so many rungs but I figured may as well get some more use out of it as a ladder. Weighs about 50 pounds. Predrilled the rungs before welding together.


----------



## Cabin by the Creek (Mar 30, 2017)

I made it 12 feet. I usually cut logs to 9 feet so they are easier to handle. That gives if plenty of space to hang the mill before and after the cut.


----------



## Johnnybar (Mar 30, 2017)

Make sure you build it long enough. I have some Oaks that will slab out bigger than this one I found online:


----------



## Johnnybar (Mar 30, 2017)

Go to auctions or estate sales and find a ladder on the cheap. They are hard to beat for ease of use with a couple of ledger boards:


----------



## jrmywstr (Jun 10, 2017)

BobL said:


> 1) All the undersides of my mill rails are lined with HDPE so they glide easily over the log rails, much less friction than with a rough milled surface


off topic... so forgive me... Bob, can you elaborate or share a link to another forum where you discuss this?


----------



## BobL (Jun 10, 2017)




----------



## jrmywstr (Jun 10, 2017)

Rad, thanks. You never cease to impress..


----------



## hseII (Jun 16, 2017)

Johnnybar said:


> Make sure you build it long enough. I have some Oaks that will slab out bigger than this one I found online:



Whoever reads this, 
Please use a strap/ choker wrapped around the frame of the forks & a shackle to connect to the chokers in the picture.

Picking up loads like that will cause the stitches to separate & ruin your chokers. 

I don't like replacing rigging before it's time, & better rigging practices help.

@Deets066. 

You know how them IronHeads are.


----------



## flying pig (Jun 29, 2017)

Here is my guide rail set up I made using overhead door channel and light angle iron.


----------

