# Carving Cants - drying issues



## FLtreeGuyVHTC (Dec 14, 2011)

So basically I'm having a hard time drying 1 ft by 1ft by 2ft tall. Started with a silver maple center from a large log. After a few days it cracked. Should I left it outside? Seems like te cold dry air would cause.it to cracked? What should I do to prevent this with my black walnut logs I plans using?


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## rb142 (Dec 14, 2011)

First thing is to get some really good grain sealer on the ends to slow down the water escaping. You will get end cracking anyway, so be sure to leave it longer than you want to end up so you have room to trim the ends later.

If the pith is left in the log, it will almost always crack anyway, unless dried very slowly -- depending on species of course. Fruitwoods are particularly prone to splitting/cracking. Walnut can develop cracks really quickly, even when sealed. If you aren't going to use the cants right away, it is best to leave the logs as long as possible, with the bark still on. Cut them down when you are ready to use them. That will keep it in better condition. Wrapping in plastic may work or may stop too much water and make them mold. Paper bags may work too. It mostly depends on your local environmental conditions.

If you carve it green, put an expansion cut in it that is deep enough to get to the pith. That will generally control the splitting. That assumes you can find a way to fit the cut into your design (like in the back).


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## FLtreeGuyVHTC (Dec 18, 2011)

So I carved a candle holder out... Got it all sand down and was going to start carving the details today... Top edges cracked... Used a kentucky coffee wood. Was a limb cut in april with bark left on it. it just started snowing here... Have trouble keeping moistor in my skin.... What should I do to keep it cracking over night? Or till im ready to finish on projects that take along time... Should I just bring them to a local mill and use theyre kiln? Seal them then sand them when im ready? Wrapping them in plastic sounds like it would work... If I could figure out how to post pics with a andriod phone I will... Using mostly small limbs for now but alot of my work has come out well... Except the cracking. Have locals asking for carvings but if of cant stop the cracking then its pointless...


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## bigjohn1895 (Dec 18, 2011)

loose fitting clear garbage bags are the best way to dry carvings if you have time dosnt let the surface dry too fast


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## discounthunter (Dec 19, 2011)

basic air drying rule of thumb; 1" of thickness per one year. kiln drying cuts that down. if im going to work on still "green" or wet chunks ,i dont get too aggresive too fast . a little every couple of days helps the wood dry slowly as its exposed lessening potential cracks.

this was a solid chunk of sweet gum


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## FLtreeGuyVHTC (Dec 22, 2011)

Making a expansion cut about half way threw uas seemed to work the best. Paper bags abosrb to much to fast. Havent tried plastic bags though it sounds like it would work with some holes and a fan on low to move the air stopping mold... still no access to a computer to post these carvings... sea turtle... Indian tracery and a tiger. Csndle yolders come out ezy and fast. Made one out of cherry. Left the bark on. Cleaner the sap off with mineral spirits then sealed it. The purple shine is beautiful. Kiln it in my oven and recut the ends... wish it smelt like cherries and not like the sealer...


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## Chainsaw Master (Dec 24, 2011)

Whack a round block in half, & carve outta that, & it won't crack. I've never seen a carving out of a round not get cracks, but I think that the cracks are part of the character of the carving......


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