# Footlocking help



## dhuffnmu (Nov 1, 2005)

Well I am trying to learn how to footlock......and lets just say it isn't going so well. I can't seem to get but about 4 ft off of the ground. The rope keeps slipping in my feet each time I try to stand up. Is there a certain kind of boot I should have. I am currently trying to use Danners that I had laying around they have a small dip in the arch. I know a flat sole is what I probably should have. Any help or suggestions is very much appreaciated.

Thanks,


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## rahtreelimbs (Nov 1, 2005)

I switched to a Pantin ( foot ascender) several months ago. But when I was doing a standard footlock I always found that pushing harder on the top foot and letting the bottom foot kinda go for the ride help to keep the rope pinched.


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## bottlefed89 (Nov 1, 2005)

I agree, I can get in a tree with traditional footlocking, but I'm not very good at it. Buy a pantin, worth the money.


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## KentuckySawyer (Nov 1, 2005)

*No pantin for me thanks.*

Anything but a logger's boot. I wear light mountaineering boots for everything and have no problems footlocking in them. Heavy duty hiking boots are good too.

It would be good to start with at least a 1/2" line. Set up a rope someplace where you can go up 15' or so, just to work on getting the technique and rhythm.

I've got a 50' footlock first thing tomorrow morning. Rise and shine.


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## Sizzle-Chest (Nov 1, 2005)

KentuckySawyer said:


> Anything but a logger's boot. I wear light mountaineering boots for everything and have no problems footlocking in them. Heavy duty hiking boots are good too.
> 
> It would be good to start with at least a 1/2" line. Set up a rope someplace where you can go up 15' or so, just to work on getting the technique and rhythm.
> 
> I've got a 50' footlock first thing tomorrow morning. Rise and shine.



i have to disagree with you, i use a loggin boot cuz its got a nice heal for the rope to rest on, and the sole is stiff as a board so your foot doesnt fold over the rope. But thats just like my opinion man  

also, footlocking is harder at first cuz the line doesnt take itself or whatever, but after 10 feet or so it will self take and be much easier.


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## Husky288XP (Nov 1, 2005)

I like my wesco's, I think they grip the rope better. My brother has the pantin' its a nice setup but I am still a traditional climber, double lines and the occasional taut-line.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 1, 2005)

I've never had a problem footlocking and I want everyone to have as easy a time as I.

I think a lot of it is the boot, but I use mountain boots that are commonly available in most sporting goods stores, so that doesn't put me anyplace that any of you can't go. I have fotlocked in tennis shoes, not as well, but more to prove it was possible (although uncomfortable).

I'd really like to help, and I will, but don't know exactly how. It's one of those things that really needs to be demonstrated. You need to see the technique done correctly, ad then practice it. DdRT, DbRT and SRT, 13 mm, 11 mm; footlocking is essentially the same for all three.


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## KentuckySawyer (Nov 1, 2005)

Did your boot get caught in a stump grinder too?


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## KentuckySawyer (Nov 1, 2005)

Sizzle-Chest said:


> i use a loggin boot cuz its got a nice heal for the rope to rest on, and the sole is stiff as a board so your foot doesnt fold over the rope. But thats just like my opinion man




What do you mean by "for the rope to rest on"? I generally (ie always) use my arch to capture the rope against the top of my other foot. I would think that you would get a better "lock" if the boot was a bit flexible. More contact with the rope.

I was unsure about my new Velocity and footlocking, but it was no problem. I don't care for how the Distel works on it though.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 1, 2005)

KaintuckyMan said:


> Did your boot get caught in a stump grinder too?


 No, but I was wearing a very thrashed-out pair when that happened. Elizabeth had made me buy a new pair of boots a few weeks earlier, so when the paramedics were cutting off my old friends with a heavy set of scissors I was so glad I wasn't wearing the new pair. I was trying to get the maximum mileage out of them, as always. 

I wear boots til they're not wearable anymore. I like how when the sole loses the tread there's just something special about that phase of the boot's life that I thoroughly enjoy. I've been collecting spent boots for a few years and only recently succumbed to my wife's pressure to put them all in a trash can, which I did, but only after I took pictures of all of them.

Boots are the most important tool in my kit. They're the only tool I use from the moment I leave until the moment I get back home. It's hard to talk about footlocking without talking about the boots.

Below is the pair I've been wearing around the house lately, breaking them in 'low and slow'.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 1, 2005)

KentuckySawyer said:


> What do you mean by "for the rope to rest on"? I generally (ie always) use my arch to capture the rope against the top of my other foot. I would think that you would get a better "lock" if the boot was a bit flexible. More contact with the rope.


I'm not sure about that either. When I footlok, my feet end up side by side, with the right toe pointing slightly down and the left pointing slightly up.

It's really very hard to describe the technique in words, but it's probably a lot easier than you're making it.

Let me see if I can find any pictures. I don't have a lot of pictures of me climbing cuz I work alone most of the time.


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## Sizzle-Chest (Nov 1, 2005)

KentuckySawyer said:


> What do you mean by "for the rope to rest on"? I generally (ie always) use my arch to capture the rope against the top of my other foot. I would think that you would get a better "lock" if the boot was a bit flexible. More contact with the rope.
> 
> I was unsure about my new Velocity and footlocking, but it was no problem. I don't care for how the Distel works on it though.




I like Wesco's too, here is a picture of what I mean . . . . . .. . . . . .. . .. you can sort of see how my heal would keep the rope from sliding under my heal, sort of?


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## Tree Machine (Nov 1, 2005)

That's not a conventional footlock. Not saying it's wrong, I've just never seen it (or done it) like that.


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## Sizzle-Chest (Nov 1, 2005)

yeah, i kinda figured someone would say that. seems i have some unconventional techniques. so, what should the foot lock look like? alls, i know is that this way works really well and it self takes. anyone else do this?


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## KentuckySawyer (Nov 2, 2005)

It looks like you've got an extra wrap around your foot.

Nice boots TreeMachine. Thats exactly the type of boot I go for.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 2, 2005)

Unconventional is good. If we all did it the same way, improvement and change would never happen.

I appreciate the opportunity to try it the way you do it, just to know what else is possible.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 2, 2005)

> Nice boots TreeMachine. Thats exactly the type of boot I go for.


 Aren't you wearing the Garmonts? Similar in a lot of aspects, but the Garmont's in my opinion, were really special, the best I've ever used. They're sporting goods boots, nothing special-order. I was wearing them beyond their useful life, but they were still climbing like big dogs, and more importantly they were exceedingly comfortable from moment one right through to the very end. I would bust really extreme moves with the Garmonts and they never let me down. Long lasting, too. They made it almost 9 months, from last Fall, through the Winter, Spring and to their forced retirement on June 16.

The current Vasques my wife found on sale at Sierra Trading Post for about half the price of what I would normally spend. Deal-finder girl got em for about $70. They're kinda stiff right now. Normally I give new boots a good hot water soaking on the outside and wear em wet on their first day. Never needed to do that with the Garmonts because they were awesome right out of the box.


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## Janner (Nov 2, 2005)

I dont know if you guys are talking about and explain totally different techniques, but when i was in the Royal Marines we were taught a few different rope climbing and descending techniques without any harnesses and such. 
To use the most common technique for rope climbing we were allways told to never rely on on your feet to grip the rope, all your power and grip should come from between your knees. 

To help find the correct position for gripping the rope between your knees you should:
1. cross your right leg over your left putting one hand between your knees 
2. then pushing your feet downwards you should feel two knobbly bits of bone this is where the rope should be gripped. Its important that your knees are level if you are too grip the rope correctly.

The first shift off the ground is normally the most important one, you get that cracked and you should be away.
We were allways taught speed is of the essence, the quicker you get the better the less tired your arms will be.

It sometimes helps to say to yourself whilst climbing feet, knees, squeeze.

Pushing the rope away from your body with your feet as you grip with your knees will also help, as you'll find yourself almost standing on it.

As i said above, i dont know if this technique is of any use to you guys but i used to use it to climb 30ft ropes with srtandard issue british boots and 22lbs of kit and a rifle on my back (and that was before the b**tards used to stick us in the estuary and make all our kit wet  )

Hope it helps
Ian


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## jamie (Nov 2, 2005)

i dont footlock at work that much, well practically never, i can though, at my local climbing wall, i find a top rope (dynamic) and can footlock easily up it in rock boots (some mad rock frenzys if you must know), i only get to about 20 foot before i feel i am drawing attention to myself and slide back down, using both feet as a friction brake. oh and im not prussicing up.

jamie


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## Rocko (Nov 2, 2005)

Buy a pantin way quicker or have a grondsman pull you up with an a.t.v. winch, truck whatever


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## Tree Machine (Nov 2, 2005)

Thanks Ian. I enjoy hearing about different techniques. I actually went outside and tried your method. It is painful on the knees, but I have bony knees. I did it as described, without ascenders or a hitch. I will say that it's possible to ascend a rope in such a manner. I'll just leave it at that.

Rocko, a Pantin will work DdRT and SRT, but not DbRT. A good footlock will work for all three techniques and minimize having to have extra devices. Having someone else on the end of your rope pulling or winching is putting your life in someone else's hands. Use caution.

I had my video guy come over today to capture the result of this stuff I invented called 'music dust'. After we finished that, I asked if he could stick around for a little rope work.

My intent was to show the footlock technique, properly done, and have you witness an ascent on 11 mm doubled rope. We only had about ten minutes and he had to split before I could do an SRT ascent, but the technique doesn't differ.

I need to go to my monthly caving meeting right now, so I may not get the video cleaned up until later tonight or tomorrow.


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## dhuffnmu (Nov 2, 2005)

Oh that would be nice to see tree machine.


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## KentuckySawyer (Nov 2, 2005)

Janner said:


> all your power ... should come from between your knees.




Well that goes without saying, right?


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## KentuckySawyer (Nov 2, 2005)

Here's the 70' footlock I got to do twice today. Morning then agian after lunch.


http://arboristsite.com/attachment_27987.php


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## Tree Machine (Nov 2, 2005)

I'm sure that was a little safer than it looks. I'd a shot a bit more inward toward the trunk. If you ascend up something that snaps off, you die.


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## KentuckySawyer (Nov 2, 2005)

Where my rope crossed the limb was 4" pin oak. At the base of the limb there was more like 6-7" of wood. It was plenty strong and was the part of the tree where I had to start the removal.

I was origionally aiming for the next fork up, but I settled for the lower spot.



Here's the tree at 5:00.
http://arboristsite.com/attachment_27992.php


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## PTS (Nov 3, 2005)

I played with the foot lock yesterday. I am used to hip thrusting but find myself tired quickly. Foot locking seems to be a flexible guy tool. I am musclebound and can only move a few inches with the foot lock which may be caused by inexperience. Anyway, I played with the idea of a homemade ascender which I made with a piece of clime line, tied a large circle using a bowline and left a tail which allowed me to tie a friction not (tautline) on my rope under my taut from my saddle. Put your foot in the circle and away you go. It worked great, really fast, but I question what problems I may run into doing it this way. Seems really simple but haven't heard anyone talking about doing it, so I figured that there might be a downfall.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

PTS, you're right on. That's a regular setup in the caving world, using a footloop, rather than a Pantin. That's similar to how I have my wife's vertical rig setup. Top ascender attaches to her harness. A lower ascender has the footloop attached to it. The two ascenders are joined by a bungee/web thing similar to my chainsaw lanyard.

You push yourself up with the footloop, advance the upper ascender (stretching the acender/ascender link), hang your weight on the upper ascender, lift leg and the lower ascender magically advances up. Repeat as necessary.

Similar in effect to the marbar system, but hers uses single ascenders and is made specifically for SRT. Also, her footloop is wide enough to insert two feet.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

I think when you see the video we shot yesterday, the whole footlock concept will come a whole lot clearer.


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## bottlefed89 (Nov 3, 2005)

When do we get to see it??


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

I got the clips edited this afternoon. I just need to compress them and assign em a format. Actually I need to break them into a couple individual smaller videos so that the file size is not overwhelming. I want to include all the dial-up guys.

I think you'll really like this if you've been having trouble with the footlock technique. I did a little something special for your entertainment to prove the point that any of you can do this.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

In Dhuffnmu's opening post, he asked about footlocking, but also about boots. Beacause of that, and the fact that my boots are virgins, I thought I'd share the opening clip with the boots.

There's a keen way of tying boots so that they won't come untied (actually there are severel ways). This is the method I've come to like (for those who haven't seen this before).


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

I'm having to play with the sizing a bit. Arboristsite doesn't allow clips bigger than 2 meg. This clip is a test to compare viewing size. Bear with me. We'll get to the footlocking part here in a minute.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

That one was noticably smaller, but still viewable. This is another test, a 20 second piece, in that smaller size. It's a closeup, so let's see how this one views. To get the file size smaller I've compromised the audio.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

That's the ticket. On this next one, I'm going to delete the audio altogether and we'll see what that does to the size.

This one, by the way, is the footlock technique. I do it deliberately slow so you can see it clearly. When playing the video clip, you can click on that little horizontal scroller pointer thing and watch it in slower motion, or frame by frame. Here we go.

This clip is crunched down to 1.07 meg. At full digital video quality it is 670 megabytes. I think that is just amazing.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

Yep, whacking the audio altogether is the way to go.

OK, I told you earlier that I would do something to convince you that ALL of you are able to do the footlocking technique. I hope to prove that point beyond a question of a doubt, but first I need to come down off my porch.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

OK, I promised that I would convince each and every one of you that YOU CAN DO THIS FOOTLOCKING THING.

This little clip is preparing you for that definitive proof.


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## Husky288XP (Nov 3, 2005)

Are you leaning back or sitting on a prusik, or are you holding your body weight and footlocking?


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

You better believe I'm gonna.......


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

Husky, I'm using a set of dual ascenders.

Let me come off the porch again and I'll have the video guy go up top and shoot from up, looking down. I have never rappelled in bedroom slippers. I'm not sure how this is gonna go.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

What a wuss! Git the heck off the porch, Tree Machine.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

*Last clip*

OK, here is the clip where the camera guy is up top, shooting from above. the view on this comes out real nice.

Now the reason I say that ANY ONE OF YOU CAN DO THIS is that I'm demonstrating this successfully, with a broken leg, wearing bedroom slippers. I am at quite a disadvantage, yet it looks rather effortless. And it is. It's all about how you clamp your feet together. Now watch closely one last time....


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 3, 2005)

I did not read all 40 posts (well only the first and then last three)...

Jim, have you looked into the RADS SRT set-up that Tom D. has been using. Dave R. took it up last year due to rotator cuff problems and it really works wekk for him.


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## Husky288XP (Nov 3, 2005)

Good source of information Tree Machine.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 3, 2005)

Thanks you guys. I hope it helps. As you witnessed, it really is a most boiled-down, straight forward method and it is truly not that difficult. It just takes some practice.

John Paul, I have not looked into Tom's SRT RADS specifically. I know what a RADS setup looks like. I use it for pulling trees over, but the only time I will use that _in_ a tree is when I drop down through a fork knowing that I will be going right back up. RADS is a 2:1 system and takes twice the motion to go the same distance as a 1:1, plus it requires a minimum of rigging.

I'm a big fan of not making tree climbing any harder than it has to be.


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## Sizzle-Chest (Nov 3, 2005)

thanks for postin that TM. I dont know why you would have, but did you try that thing i was calling footlock? I might be crazy, but it seems like it goes faster than the real footlock and its less complicated. But i should try the real way before i really say that.,


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## Tree Machine (Nov 4, 2005)

You should try as many different ways as you can, Sizzle. I haven't tried the method you described, but I will.


Sizzle said:


> I might be crazy, but it seems like it goes faster than the real footlock and its less complicated.


Whether or not you're crazy is definitely up for debate. I mean, you post a picture of your wife in your avatar and that tells me right there you're not playing with a full deck. But I like ya. 

When trying the 'real' footlock (let's call it 'conventional'), cross right foot _over top of the left_, and try to go heel-to-heel (you can do this sitting where you are) you've just created a 'V' between your feet, move your feet forward until the rope is deep in the well of the V. Move them back to the position as if you were standing on the ground, flat-footed, with your feet butted up to one another. Then tip your right toe downward. You've created a shallow X with your feet. V.....X, repeat if necessary. That's it.

Now, I'm going to share the fine detail that will crystallize this for you. I want you to sit back in your chair with your feet up off the ground. Put your feet butted up to one another as if you are standing flat-footed on the ground; left-inside heel to right-inside heel, left-inside big toe area up against right-inside to area, the bottom of your soles level with each other. Look at your feet. See that tapered gap right in the middle of your arch area? This is bad. Now tip your right foot forward. See that gap disappear? This is good. That is where you get the 'pinch' on the rope. THAT little detail is what will make or break your footlock.

When you see a good footlocker doing his thing, this is the little nuance that you don't see.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 4, 2005)

> What are you using for your tie-in. It looks like you have some sort of ascender not a friction knot. Whatever you are using seems easier than my Blakes and it appeared to have a handle.


See pictures 1, 2 and 3.


> I just learned how to climb, all hip thrust with friction knot. I get about a foot per pull in which I get about five and I want to quit. There has got to be an easier way. I watched you do the footlock and you were up in about two seconds. I also noticed that you were vertical. I feel like I am falling over backwards.


You're comparing hip thrust to footlock, cherries to watermelons. In a hip thrust you ARE somewhere between vertical and horizontal. In a footlock, you are vertical. Focus on being vertical. If you've been trained in body thrust, vertical will seem foreign to you. Purge your mind of your old climbing truths. Start with a fresh slate. There are moments where a body thrust is advantageous, but they will just be moments.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Nov 4, 2005)

Tree Machine said:


> When you see a good footlocker doing his thing, this is the little nuance that you don't see.



The actual lock is the beginnign, the second part of being a truely good foot locker is getting the momentum right. This is similar to how a B-ball player kicks up for that extra hight/hang time in a jumpshot, kinda like standing up in the air.

Thiss allows you to hold the rope, without holding all your wieght, then advance the hitchas you stand.

I know it in theory, but have not been able to get it all together and use in every day work. I still have to sit on the hitch to rest, which locks it up, wasting more energy.

Several years ago I went to the Mar-Bar(R) system for tall tree entry. Pricey in startup, but I can rest every 30 feet in the afternoon. In the AM I can usually do a 50-75 ft pitch w/o a rest 

IMO one needs to master the seperate parts of the FL before trying it for daily use, or frustration will make you give it up.

FL'ing the tail on your trad system using an "advanced hitch" or a long Blakes will make it coem together in several weeks.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 4, 2005)

Or going up with backed-up ascenders will make it come together in minutes. Ascenders can be used DdRT, DbRT or SRT. Once in the tree you can choose whatever system you wish, just flipline in and switch over. Chances are you're gonna rest once you get to your vertical destination, so flipline in, rest and switch over to your preferred system. Clip the ascender to your hip and get on to your tree care duty.

I pretty much put my full weight on the ascender between each and every lock. I stop and hang for a few moments, and then move on. With a hitch, you don't really get that liberty for the reason JP mentions.

Ascending a rope should not be 'suffering'. It should be joy. It should demonstrate to any watchers, most immediately, that you clearly know what you're doing.


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## bottlefed89 (Nov 4, 2005)

Are the Vid's post stump grinder accident?? Not to pry into your business, but if they are I'd say you're making a hell of a recovery... Thanks for the vids, you make it look easy.


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## jamie (Nov 4, 2005)

*ok*

i was taught differently, instead of having feet side by side, i wrap my left foot round the rope in the same way, but then scoop the rope up with the right and stand on the rope with my toes on top of my foot....

have to give that a try, doesnt look as painful. was also showed a way of dropping a loop down from one hand and standing in it, 

not very effective and uses one leg only
 
jamie


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## bottlefed89 (Nov 4, 2005)

Jamie, I've always done the same thing you're talking about, wrap with the left foot, then lock it with your right, but I defenitely suck at it. We'll see if this way works any better.


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## jamie (Nov 4, 2005)

i honestly havnt tried it in a tree, will get out tomorrow, and try, may have to go buy some cord.....more money

unless dhl arrive early

jamie


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## Tree Machine (Nov 4, 2005)

bottlefed89 said:


> Are the Vid's post stump grinder accident?? Not to pry into your business, but if they are I'd say you're making a hell of a recovery...


Yea. The videos were shot the day before yesterday and posted yesterday. 4-1/2 months post-accident. I am so very greatful to be able to footlock again. This has been the first time since June.


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## bottlefed89 (Nov 4, 2005)

Awesome, glad to hear you're doing so well. I looked at the pics you posted of your leg after the injury, I am impressed you're able to walk, let alone footlock...


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## Bodean (Nov 4, 2005)

Kentucky , honest question. Why footlock 50-60' for a wreck. Maybe it's faster than hiking up with the spurs? I'm not dissing just asking as I'm sure you're on it.
D


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## Tree Machine (Nov 4, 2005)

I'll answer. The shortest distance from point A to point B is a straight line. And it _can_ be faster than spurring up. That all depends on the tree and how good a footlocker you become.

Here's another encouraging point for all of you. It's not like you keep getting better at footlocking over time. There is definitely a finite end to what it takes to be an expert. I have not improved my footlocking ability in 12 years, it has remained constant. Certain boots I have found work a little better, but overall, once you 'get it', you got it.


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## bottlefed89 (Nov 4, 2005)

The tree and the climber...


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## PTS (Nov 4, 2005)

I am looking at getting a pantin which I have heard several of you talk about. I ran across this website that talks about the pantin but it isn't positive. Can someone shed a little light on the subject. I wonder if the user was lost.


http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Ascender/EccCamPages/FEC129.html


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## bottlefed89 (Nov 4, 2005)

I think JPS's comments on that site sum it up. I have also had troubles with the webbing came, but rerigging the webbing was an easy 7 second ordeal. No problems. You can figure out how to use it. I for one use it all the time, mostly because I suck at footlocking. If I were able to FL like the machine, I might not rely on the pantin, for now I use it almost daily. Try it, with a little effort you'll like it.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 4, 2005)

I used one once. I pulled it out of my caving kit and took it to a jobsite. A noob was swinging through town and we were gonna do a climb together. He was going up a doubled rope and I was going up a single. We were about a meter apart, ascending together. On the first limb I broke out the Pantin and put it on. the first thing I said was "This thing needs a fastek buckle" because it required me to take off my Uglis to put it on. Then I got about two strides up and it popped off the rope. 

Not being one to diss a piece of gear by one of my favorite manufacturers, I reapplied it and continued. I had to concentrate on how my foot was angled so the Pantin would advance rather than pull the rope up. Then, since it is attached to one foot, what do you do with the other? I put one foot on top of the other in _almost_ the same fashion as I would with a footlock!

Needless to say, I found it to be an 'extra', and rather unnecessary piece of gear. I put it back in my caving kit and there it still sits.

Some guys love em. Mebbe it's a matter of getting used to em. If you were doing SRT and there was another climber on rope beneath you, the Pantin would be keen, but we don't do that in tree care.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 5, 2005)

Here is a rig that shows how to replace your hitch with an ascender for going up. This would be an ascendered DdRT 2:1 trad more like what most of you are used to.

You would use this to get up to where you're going, flipline in, hip the ascender, biner the eye to you, and apply a friction hitch or friction device to the standing end and go to work. This would be a remarkably easier 2:1 system for footlocking as you could rest your full weight between strides without a hitch binding and creating resistance on the up-push. Plus, the biner you see holds the rope captive in the shell in the highly unlikely event that a cam would fail.

I don't think the footlocking is the hangup for you guys. I think it's the interference of the friction hitches you're using. Honestly.

Note, the lower part of the single ascender would need a loop web to attach to your saddle.


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## Sizzle-Chest (Nov 5, 2005)

hey TM, i tried my footlocking method again today and failed miserably . . . so maybe there's a reason people dont do it. On the other hand, I tried your method and it seemed to work, but I only had one line to climb on and I noticed in your video that you have two. First off, how do you have two lines? and would it work better if I had two also, or do i just need to practice??? or maybe I am asking the unanswerable???


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## Tree Machine (Nov 5, 2005)

Naw, you're OK, Sizzle. The one line you had to climb on tells me you were ascending DdRT (Like the 2:1 setup just above, only probably using a hitch), or SRT. Are you climbing on one line (SRT) or are you climbing on a doubled line while footlocking a single line (traditional DdRT)?

I was climbing a doubled line, DbRT, where both ends of the rope are on the ground and each leg does not move vertically with regards to one another. That's the magic of dual ascenders. Clip them on and go on up.

I didn't really think about that that's not how most tree climbers ascend, but then again I was there to show the footlock, not demo one technique against another.

Footlocking a doubled rope, like how I show in the video, is often easier than footlocking a single rope because you not only have the friction of rope against boots (or bedroom slippers), but the friction of the rope against the rope itself. There's more 'meat' to grab.

Do you just need to practice? Well,.... yea. Regardless of whether I climb DdRT (1% of the time) DbRT 74% of the time) or SRT (25% of the time) my footlocking technique does not differ. SO, should you be trying footlocking a doubled rope? I think you should try all kinds of things to see what works best for you. All I ask is that you climb safe.


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## Tree Machine (Nov 5, 2005)

Excuse the 'no helmet'. It's an old, old picture. I can tell because I'm climbing on 1/2" bull rope there.


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## moray (Jul 26, 2007)

*Not easy for everyone...*



Tree Machine said:


> Here is a rig that shows how to replace your hitch with an ascender for going up.



I saw this old thread the other day and was intrigued by TM's rig. I tried it a couple days later and was amazed by how eerily smooth and effortless it was. Since I had a friend coming over in a few days to try climbing for the first time, and she was worried that she was too weak to climb (I knew better), I thought THIS is the method of choice.

She is 66 and in good shape, so I expected she was going to find this method a breeze. I had rigged up a lower ascender with footloops so she didn't have to do anything but stand up. What could be simpler?

But she couldn't do it. After 45 minutes we had gained about 6 inches and the poor woman seemed absolutely bewildered. I was beginning to think I would have to get a climbing friend over to help me rig up some pulleys to hoist her up in the tree. Despairing and embarrassed, I crossed my fingers and rigged her up for hip thrusting. Amazingly, she did that just fine! In 10 minutes we were up at the TIP, about 20 feet up, and she rappelled down without a problem. Go figure.


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## TaoTreeClimber (Jul 26, 2007)

Some of the best things in life are the simple ones. What could be more simple than a doubled rope and a footlock prusik? Technique and conditionioning are paramount in footlocking. Practice your form, with each stride reach as high as you can, do a pull up as you bring your feet up as high as you can grasping another bite with your feet. As you lock and stand slide your hitch as high as you can reach. Repeat the process. Concentrate on form. Start off with only a few strides up the rope. Decend and repeat, do not worry about vertical progress. Progress will come with form. Fast is smooth, smooth is fast. In perfect form good footlocking is effortless activity. This is non-doing. This is the way of the Tao.


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## madsen (Aug 6, 2007)

Is the prussik that you advance as you footlock around both ropes (assuming you are footlocking with both ropes (double rope method??))?


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