# Milling A Big Cherry Log



## Sawyer Rob (Apr 5, 2006)

Last fall i harvested a very nice blk. cherry tree out of my woodlot, and i thought i'd post pictures of how i milled it into top quality lumber.

You can see the tree in the picture, and how i turned it into cabinet grade lumber at the link below... Click on the first pict., and use the arrows at the top of it to move to the next pict.. Also there's captions at the bottom of each picture..

Rob







http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744


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## Newfie (Apr 5, 2006)

Some sweet looking boards.


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## 046 (Apr 5, 2006)

thanks for sharing...

nice mill! that 23 hP motor looks pretty stout.


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## lookingtoplant (Apr 6, 2006)

Just make sure when your skidding a log or pulling anything, that if it doesn't get caught on anything because when's higher up, you'll flip the tractor and kill yourself.


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## coveredinsap (Apr 6, 2006)

I have a question: How did you get the big log from the tractor forks down onto the mill? Do you roll it on? ...as I don't see any mechanism for setting it down and withdrawing the forks...


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 6, 2006)

It would be VERY difficult at best, to make "that" tractor go over backwards. It has enough weight on the front to keep it down with the MFWD axle, and the loader on it. This is just common sense, and seeing as how i've been driveing tractors for nearly 50 years i'm not a newbie to them and how they react.

As for getting the log off the forks and onto the bunks. The cross bunks on the mill are "higher" than the rails of the track. I can set the forks low enough, tip them and the log will roll right onto the mill.

You can see this quite clearly in the pict. below...

Rob


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## coveredinsap (Apr 6, 2006)

> You can see this quite clearly in the pict. below...



Ummmm, OK, if you say so.



> tip them and the log will roll right onto the mill.



I thought so. OK, so the answer is...you gently roll them on by tipping the forks down. Hmmmm, can't say I like the idea of that big 'ol log accidently getting away and slamming into the back side of the mill. I wonder how hard would it be for the manufacturer of the mill to put some recesses spaced along the rails of the mill so that a log can be gently set on it and the forks withdrawn from below?


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 6, 2006)

> Ummmm, OK, if you say so.



You can't see the raised bunks in that pict?????? Maybe you need a new monitor...  

As for loading logs. I bought my first Lumbermate in 1996, and this updated model in 2004. To this day, i haven't had any problems loading logs.

This new model has raised bunks and it works very easy to "set" or "roll" a log on it. I'm not alone, Norwood has sold hundreds and hundreds of these mills, and i've yet to hear of the problem you "think" it has.

Recessing for a log is a terrible idea, and if you ever actually "own" a sawmill, and use it to saw "grade" lumber you will soon see why.

Rob

My sawmill Pictures -----> http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744


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## Reddog (Apr 6, 2006)

Nice pics Sawyer Rob. Don't you like how all us guys that use tractors get lumped into the 8n crowd. My 70 hp kubota will pull as much as the early skidders. And with the loader on the front can't even get the front tires off the ground. I use a skidding winch but have in the past pulled off the draw bar.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 6, 2006)

*Nice pics*

Rob why the anchor seal over paint? What other wood types to you mill and do you seal them all? Thanks for posting.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 6, 2006)

Red dog,

I also own an 8N Ford, so i know where they are comeing from. BUT, a bigger modern MFWD tractor set up right with an operator with a brain, just won't go over backwards like older tractors do...

BIG JAKE,

It will take anywhere's from 5 to 10 coats of paint to even come close to doing what Anchorseal does in ONE coat. The object of the coating is to seal the end of the log, and paint just has a hard time doing that. Anchorseal is so "waxey", it's very good at sealing off the open pores of the rough cut end of a log.

I've said it before, and i'll say it again. Paint "looks" as good as Anchorseal, but it doesn't "work" as good as Anchorseal.

No, i don't end coat every log, but i do try to end coat every high quality log, especially if it's going to be sawn for "grade".

BTW, i don't sell or have anything to do with the Anchorseal other than use it here on my logs!

One last thing: I see many of the viewers of my pictures, aren't looking at the "part two" of the log milling. That's too bad, because i think some of the best pictures are there....

My sawmill picts. http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744

Rob


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## lookingtoplant (Apr 6, 2006)

How much do one of those mills costs?


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 7, 2006)

The Lumbermate 2000 starts out at $4,690.00 with a Honda 13 hp motor. It will saw a 32" x 12' long log. If you want to saw longer logs, you can buy as much track as you want now or later and bolt it right on.

I had a Honda 13 on my last mill, and it sawed pretty good. For personal use it would be enough hp..

Rob

My Sawmill Pictures http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744


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## coveredinsap (Apr 7, 2006)

I kind of like the looks/features of the Lucas Portable Sawmill (circular) over the Lumbermate (bandsaw) models.

A Granberg chainsaw mill (for slabbing) and a Lucas Portable Mill and you're all set....no tractor necessary and no moving big-arse logs around. The Lucas mill sets up and breaks down easily and is set right up on the spot. Sweet. (And no huge investment for a tractor....doubly sweet.)

http://www.baileys-online.com/Mill.htm

http://www.lucasmill.com.au/sawmill.html


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## Newfie (Apr 7, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> I kind of like the looks/features of the Lucas Portable Sawmill (circular) over the Lumbermate (bandsaw) models.
> 
> A Granberg chainsaw mill (for slabbing) and a Lucas Portable Mill and you're all set....no tractor necessary and no moving big-arse logs around. The Lucas mill sets up and breaks down easily and is set right up on the spot. Sweet. (And no huge investment for a tractor....doubly sweet.)
> 
> ...




Did you check out the price tag on those Lucas Mills?


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## coveredinsap (Apr 7, 2006)

> Did you check out the price tag on those Lucas Mills?



Yeah, roughly $7k, $9k, and $12k. Actually less than the LumberMate 2000 with a big motor and all the options/packages at $16k. And about the same, $12k with the big motor and the trailer and leveling packages.

And that's leaving out entirely the need for a tractor with the Lumbermate 2000.

All things being equal the Lucas Mills start looking like a good deal...set them up over the log, mill, then break them down and haul away the lumber in a pickup truck with the mill on the lumber rack. No other accessory equipment needed. Slick.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 8, 2006)

First of all, i would own the same tractor whether i had a mill or not, as i do have a farm here. You don't have to have a big tractor just because you have a sawmill, but it's really nice to have one around. I know many guys that have a bandmill who don't have a expensive tractor around.

Norwood has a great set of ramps to roll logs up, and there winch rolls them right up the ramps no problem. It's the same winch that turns the logs once it's up there.

I like swing mills, they have there place. BUT, you are limited to narrow boards, and they are much harder to grade saw with. They also have a wider kerf than a band, so once again you are back to less lumber per log.. They are a pain with smaller logs.

"If" you have a lot of big to huge logs and you aren't sawing for grade a lot, they really shine. "If" i was buying a swinger though, it's the Peterson that would be in my barn.. BUT, i can't get by that huge price they have and also that they work best with huge logs.

I'm not sure why anyone would price a LM2000 (or any mill) with every option and then compare it to another mill that's stripped,  but coveredinsap i STILL think you need a NEW monitor.... I think most folks here are smarter than that though....





OK, i'm done answering the "wave maker"... 

Rob


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## WRW (Apr 8, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> Yeah, roughly $7k, $9k, and $12k. Actually less than the LumberMate 2000 with a big motor and all the options/packages at $16k. And about the same, $12k with the big motor and the trailer and leveling packages.
> 
> And that's leaving out entirely the need for a tractor with the Lumbermate 2000.
> 
> All things being equal the Lucas Mills start looking like a good deal...set them up over the log, mill, then break them down and haul away the lumber in a pickup truck with the mill on the lumber rack. No other accessory equipment needed. Slick.




Why are you fixated on the need for a tractor with the Norwood mill and the problems of loading with forks? One customer loads them as Sawyer Rob describes with no problems. Another uses chains hooked to a bucket with no problems. For myself, my first cutting was a couple of ramps and I use a cant hook to roll the logs up to the bed. No tractor involved.

Sawyer Rob,
Same poster on the Yahoo milling forum?


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## Newfie (Apr 8, 2006)

Most of his fixation seems to stem from lack of clue. He's milled up one tree with half a saw and half a mill and he's an expert. Sap appears to be in an expert in most other venues as well. Probably just another google baby with very little practical experience.

Time for me to go back thru all of his posts so I can take notes, cuz apparently I've doing it all wrong.:greenchainsaw:


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## WRW (Apr 8, 2006)

Newfie said:


> Most of his fixation seems to stem from lack of clue. He's milled up one tree with half a saw and half a mill and he's an expert. Sap appears to be in an expert in most other venues as well. Probably just another google baby with very little practical experience.
> 
> Time for me to go back thru all of his posts so I can take notes, cuz apparently I've doing it all wrong.:greenchainsaw:




Half a saw and half a mill...I'm rolling on the floor. :censored: off.


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## coveredinsap (Apr 8, 2006)

LOL! Yup, everyone's an expert...particularly around here.

What the heck are you meaning by 'grade' lumber? Lumber is lumber is lumber. It's all self-regulated, and outside of structural lumber, is just a bunch of wannabe marketing bs. You can get different cuts from a log, depending on how you slice it up....quarter sawn, vertical grain...whatever. The primary thing is how clear the lumber is, for cripes sake. Everything else is just variations on a theme.

For instance, I can take a piece of cherry cut with a chainsaw mill and it will be no different 'grade' then if it comes from a expensive portable mill or a commercial mill. In fact, I have some slabs of cherry in my garage right now that came from a commercial mill that _look like_ they were cut with a chainsaw mill. LOL! I didn't notice the place I bought them from offering to discount the cherry because if was 'rough sawn' or 'poor grade'. LOL! Man, you dudes take the cake!

Maybe if I call myself 'Sawyer Sap' then my opinion means more? Yeah right.


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## Freakingstang (Apr 8, 2006)

Thanks for sharing the pics. I did check out part II. I don't mill enough wood to justify that, but would like to start with a alaskan chainsaw mill one of these days.

Steve


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 8, 2006)

> What the heck are you meaning by 'grade' lumber? Lumber is lumber is lumber. It's all self-regulated, and outside of structural lumber, is just a bunch of wannabe marketing bs. You can get different cuts from a log, depending on how you slice it up....quarter sawn, vertical grain...whatever. The primary thing is how clear the lumber is, for cripes sake. Everything else is just variations on a theme.



Not to




but i'll feed the troll one more time... hahahaa

You "obviously" know nothing about grade sawing and because there may be others not fimialiar with "that" term i'll explain a bit more.

What you are MISSING, is the part that by TURNING a log you can make the lumber come out of it at a HIGHER GRADE. You know, some with knots and some without?? Starting out sawing on the RIGHT side of the log, and LEARNING when to turn the "cant", you can increase the number of CLEAR boards "dramatically".

BEFORE you think you know it all, go saw with a sawyer for a few months/years and learn about "sawing" then come back and perhaps you won't have that "tude" you have...

("These kid's now days!! You buy em books and they wipe there @$$ with the pages!!) "Ok"' i'm done...





Rob


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## coveredinsap (Apr 8, 2006)

> Not to but i'll feed the troll one more time... hahahaa
> 
> You "obviously" know nothing about grade sawing and because there may be others not fimialiar with "that" term i'll explain a bit more.
> 
> ...



Yeah, I see how that goes....everyone who dares to disagree with you is a troll. It sounds like you're a 'kid' yourself.

Dude, spare me the speech on how difficult it is to mill clear lumber. You make it sound like figuring out how to saw a log to get the clearest wood is some type of big mystery ...or difficult to fathom....like rocket science. It isn't.
It appears that the old addage is true...a little knowledge is indeed a dangerous thing. Wow, turning a log to miss the knots...who would have thought that, eh? Jesus H Christ.

Oh, did I mention that milling lumber is first year apprentice stuff for carpenters?


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## Freakingstang (Apr 8, 2006)

and you wonder why people think you are a troll. Go figure... Don't you have some more milling to do with your 455 homeonwer saw?


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## Newfie (Apr 8, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> Oh, did I mention that milling lumber is first year apprentice stuff for carpenters?




Yeah right. And concrete workers do an internship at the quarry and learn how to mine aggregate.


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## coveredinsap (Apr 9, 2006)

> Don't you have some more milling to do with your 455 homeonwer saw?



Don't you mean "homeowner saw(s)"? The Husky 137 is a 'homeowner' saw too...and a great little saw at that...despite what the naysayers claim. And that's the real rub here, that homeowner saws can do the same work as pro saws.

As I've said before, buying a pro saw doesn't make you a pro.....knowing how to use the tool correctly makes you a pro.

And you better believe that first year apprentice masons learn all about aggregate mining.


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## Newfie (Apr 9, 2006)

Who said anything about masons? I would think they would be required to work in a brick factory before laying a brick.


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## stumpguy (Apr 9, 2006)

just wanted to say, great pics and great info! we have been playing with the idea of buying a mill. we generate hundreds of nice logs each year and it seems to be a such a waste to turn the best ones into firewood.


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## Gologit (Apr 9, 2006)

Newfie said:


> Most of his fixation seems to stem from lack of clue. He's milled up one tree with half a saw and half a mill and he's an expert. Sap appears to be in an expert in most other venues as well. Probably just another google baby with very little practical experience.
> 
> Time for me to go back thru all of his posts so I can take notes, cuz apparently I've doing it all wrong.:greenchainsaw:



Maybe its time we cut 'Sap some slack. Other than the fact that he's arrogant, blindly opinionated,spiteful,vindictive,totally clueless about chainsaws and mills and milling procedures,completely lacking in any of the more important social graces, and makes himself the poster-boy for never knowing when to **** he might not be a bad guy at all. He lives up in the wine (whine?) country north of San Francisco. Too much exposure to yuppie vintners and their ilk has obviously warped the boy. Maybe if he spent as much effort in learning from this forum as he's wasted arguing on it he'd be better off. I know the rest of us would.:notrolls2:


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## coveredinsap (Apr 10, 2006)

> Maybe its time we cut 'Sap some slack. Other than the fact that he's arrogant, blindly opinionated,spiteful,vindictive,totally clueless about chainsaws and mills and milling procedures,completely lacking in any of the more important social graces, and makes himself the poster-boy for never knowing when to **** he might not be a bad guy at all. He lives up in the wine (whine?) country north of San Francisco. Too much exposure to yuppie vintners and their ilk has obviously warped the boy. Maybe if he spent as much effort in learning from this forum as he's wasted arguing on it he'd be better off. I know the rest of us would.



LOL! Thanks for the comments! (Obviously another member of my fan club weighing in on the subject.)

About the only comment I have is that...maybe if all the wannabe 'professionals' (that would be people who think that buying a 'pro' saw auto-magically makes them superior or 'professional') stopped dissing everyone who doesn't buy a 'pro' saw, I wouldn't have to waste my time butting heads with morons. "Tools with tools" would be a better named sub-forum for some around here.


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## rb_in_va (Apr 10, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> A Granberg chainsaw mill (for slabbing) and a Lucas Portable Mill and you're all set....no tractor necessary and no moving big-arse logs around. The Lucas mill sets up and breaks down easily and is set right up on the spot. Sweet. (And no huge investment for a tractor....doubly sweet.)



And you just have to move the mill every time you want to mill a log, right? And if you break a blade it's only $200-300 a pop, right? I'll take the bandmill/tractor set up. That way I'd have a way to move stacks of cut lumber (think forklift) too as well as do hundreds of other projects. Plus, tractors are just plain cool.


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## coveredinsap (Apr 10, 2006)

> Plus, tractors are just plain cool.



True. But what's a decent tractor going for these days? $25k? $50k? More?

$10k or $15k in a mill is one thing. Buying a tractor, a trailer, and a truck to haul the works around with is another thing entirely.

The more portable a setup is, the more likely you'll be able to get it to the log, as opposed to getting the log to the mill. That's why chainsaw mills are so handy....and popular 



> And if you break a blade it's only $200-300



In all my years I've never "broken" a circular saw blade. And I've used plenty of them too. Knocked a few teeth off? Sure. Then they becoming a 'thrasher' blade for cutting things you don't want to use a good blade on.


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## rb_in_va (Apr 10, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> True. But what's a decent tractor going for these days? $25k? $50k? More?
> 
> $10k or $15k in a mill is one thing. Buying a tractor, a trailer, and a truck to haul the works around with is another thing entirely.
> 
> ...



How many trees have you milled with a circular mill? I'd buy an older tractor, not a $25-50k new one. Plus I have friends and relatives that have tractors already. Maybe if you weren't such an a$$ you'd have friends too. You've got an uphill battle trying to convince anyone that an Alaskan is better than a bandmill. I do believe that the Alaskan has it's place though. It would come in handy if you have a log that is too big to fit on the bandmill to knock it down to manageable size.

With the Lucas you've still got to get the logs to one central location to mill, unless you want to set up and break down the mill for every log. The set up looks easy on the video, but I'm sure it doesn't always go so smooth.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 10, 2006)

> True. But what's a decent tractor going for these days? $25k? $50k? More?
> 
> $10k or $15k in a mill is one thing. Buying a tractor, a trailer, and a truck to haul the works around with is another thing entirely.



Here's your answer,

Decent Ford tractor? $3,000.00 WITH a loader that will easily lift 2,000 pounds. Trailor? $2,000.00, flat bed with 3 axles with NEW tires ready to go. Anyone doing this stuff pretty much already has a pick up or something to pull a trailor.

Sawmill, $4,700.00 and with it, you can saw fast enough to pay for all of the above. In fact it's NO problem to make some money with a band mill!

Another thing, everything above will last a long time and actually has a "good resale" if you ever want to sell it.

How do i know this you ask? Because i already sold one mill when i bought the new one. A guy drove here from Florida and handed me the cash, no problem and i got a good return on my dollar!

BUT, lets get something straight. You don't need a tractor or trailor to start out milling. There are many ways to get logs without hauling them your self. I can get logs delivered any time i want, and there are LOT's of ways to get logs on the mill with out a tractor....

You keep on trying to "taylor" a circumstance to fit YOUR answers, and everyone will keep on peeing in your corn flakes!

Rob


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## rb_in_va (Apr 10, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Decent Ford tractor? $3,000.00 WITH a loader that will easily lift 2,000 pounds. Trailor? $2,000.00, flat bed with 3 axles with NEW tires ready to go. Anyone doing this stuff pretty much already has a pick up or something to pull a trailor.
> 
> Sawmill, $4,700.00 and with it, you can saw fast enough to pay for all of the above. In fact it's NO problem to make some money with a band mill!



Tractor: $3000
Trailer: $2000
Sawmill: $4700
Turning logs into lumber: Priceless!


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## Newfie (Apr 10, 2006)

And to buy a brand new tractor tweeked out to "move around those pesky logs" is going to be considerably less than $25K.


All of the better bandmills have loading apparatus, manual or hydraulic, thta can be used in absence of a tractor or grapple. Logs being cylindrical, oddly enough, can easily be rolled to the mill using a peavey.


I think I'm gonna sell the backhoe for my tractor and go get a nice "pro" model shovel. It's so much more portable if not productive.


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## rb_in_va (Apr 10, 2006)

Newfie said:


> I think I'm gonna sell the backhoe for my tractor and go get a nice "pro" model shovel. It's so much more portable if not productive.


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## johncinco (Apr 10, 2006)

Looks great. I noticed in the 2nd set, that very long log, looks like it has some serious waves in it. is it just the camera or pics or did your blade start going everywhere? 



Sometimes its better to stay quiet and be thought a fool, than run your mouth over and over and prove it. 

Ben Franklin or some other smart dude.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 10, 2006)

Hi John,

A band mill many times leaves a bit of fuzz on the edge of a board or cant, and in the pict it will look like an uneven edge.

Haveing said that, it's also true that "if" you don't have the tension up high enough, or "if" you let the band go too long so it's no longer sharp, or maybe even are just traveling too fast? Those things can cause a slight dip when going through a tough knot or maybe a hard spot in the cant. I listen to the motor and ajust my speed accordantly.

As you can see in the pict below, those boards are dead flat!

Thanks to everyone for viewing my sawmill pictures, they have had over 3,000 hits from this thread alone.

Rob






My sawmill pictures http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744


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## coveredinsap (Apr 10, 2006)

> Here's your answer,
> 
> Decent Ford tractor? $3,000.00 WITH a loader that will easily lift 2,000 pounds. Trailor? $2,000.00, flat bed with 3 axles with NEW tires ready to go. Anyone doing this stuff pretty much already has a pick up or something to pull a trailor.



I don't know where you guys are from, but around here $3k won't even get you a John Deere lawn jockey tractor, let alone a real one. This isn't the midwest where all maner of tractor are just laying around for the taking....at a dime a dozen.

I don't know what you mean by 'tractor', but here's what I'm referring to:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7581086651&category=95493

and a general category:

http://business.listings.ebay.com/H...QfromZR11QQsacatZ95493QQsocmdZListingItemList


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 10, 2006)

Then come get it!! Load the tractor on the trailor, take it home and get RICH reselling it!!!!!

With the money you make, you will beable to get a bandmill, and then the next thing you know, you will have some milling EXPERENCE too...  

Rob


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## Gologit (Apr 10, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Then come get it!! Load the tractor on the trailor, take it home and get RICH reselling it!!!!!
> 
> With the money you make, you will beable to get a bandmill, and then the next thing you know, you will have some milling EXPERENCE too...
> 
> Rob


 
LOL....Sap needs to realize that theres more to the world than the Napa valley. If he gets real brave he can trundle across the hill to the Sacramento Valley and he can find good little 8ns and 2240s all day long for well under five grand. He'd be well advised to park his attitude at home,though. Otherwise some of our more rustic rural types might not be terribly impressed with his wit and wisdom and might even wind up taking advantage of the boy.If he'd quit letting his mouth lead him around so far in advance of his brains and experience I"m sure he'd do a lot better.


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## coveredinsap (Apr 10, 2006)

Ford 8NS? Is that an antique? Look, I'm talking a tractor, not a POS that needs all kinds of work. You guys advocate buying _only_ 'pro' chainsaws ....but POS antique tractors? Jesus, that's priceless.

You guys hardly have a leg to stand on talking about 'attitude'.


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## Freakingstang (Apr 10, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> Ford 8NS? Is that an antique? Look, I'm talking a tractor, not a POS that needs all kinds of work. You guys advocate buying _only_ 'pro' chainsaws ....but POS antique tractors? Jesus, that's priceless.
> 
> You guys hardly have a leg to stand on talking about 'attitude'.




Maybe you should have bought the "pro" clue. It is an upgrade from the homeowner version, and is well worth the extra money.


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## Gologit (Apr 10, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> Ford 8NS? Is that an antique? Look, I'm talking a tractor, not a POS that needs all kinds of work. You guys advocate buying _only_ 'pro' chainsaws ....but POS antique tractors? Jesus, that's priceless.
> 
> You guys hardly have a leg to stand on talking about 'attitude'.



I guess the 8N is probably old enough to qualify as an antique but does that automatically make it a POS? A lot of people still use them daily and they still earn their keep. I had one for years and it took care of everything I ever asked of it on our place. Sure it was old, the paint was faded and it had a few dings here and there but it had a reliability factor of 99%...much better than a lot of the newer fancier tractors available. The only reason I sold it was because I"ve doubled the amount of ground I"m working and I needed more muscle. Age has nothing to do with "pro" and doesn't even begin to define POS.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 11, 2006)

> I guess the 8N is probably old enough to qualify as an antique but does that automatically make it a POS?



First he proves that he (sap) knows very little about milling, and now he proves that he doesn't know jack about tractors either....

Geeeee, what could be next from this "expert"??

Rob


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## coveredinsap (Apr 11, 2006)

> First he proves that he (sap) knows very little about milling, and now he proves that he doesn't know jack about tractors either....
> 
> Geeeee, what could be next from this "expert"??



Riiiiiiiiiight. I'm guessing you park that '99% reliablility factor' antique tractor right next to your '99% reliability factor' 70's Ford Pinto daily commute vehicle too.

Jeez Louise already. Who's the sap?


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## rb_in_va (Apr 11, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> Jeez Louise already. Who's the sap?



That would be you.


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## Finnbear (Apr 12, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> LOL! Yup, everyone's an expert...particularly around here.
> 
> What the heck are you meaning by 'grade' lumber? Lumber is lumber is lumber. It's all self-regulated, and outside of structural lumber, is just a bunch of wannabe marketing bs. You can get different cuts from a log, depending on how you slice it up....quarter sawn, vertical grain...whatever. The primary thing is how clear the lumber is, for cripes sake. Everything else is just variations on a theme.
> 
> ...


Anyone can saw a log into boards. A good sawyer can saw for "grade" and produce the maximum amount of good lumber from a log. There are many methods of sawing a log which will produce different results. A log can be sawn "through and through" or "quartersawn" or "rift sawn" or "plain sawn". All these require a different plan of attack when the log is on the carriage. A good sawyer once told me "you can ruin a lot of good lumber learning how to saw it."
Finnbear
BTW - Who makes that half-mill you posted pics of a couple days ago?


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## coveredinsap (Apr 12, 2006)

> BTW - Who makes that half-mill you posted pics of a couple days ago?



LOL! You're the 'expert'. You tell me.


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## Newfie (Apr 12, 2006)

Finnbear, Granberg makes that mill. It's the "small log" version.


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## Finnbear (Apr 12, 2006)

Newfie said:


> Finnbear, Granberg makes that mill. It's the "small log" version.


Thanks Mike. I thought it looked similar in construction to a Granberg but the only one I've ever run was the longer one that attaches to the saw on both ends.
Finnbear


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## ROLLACOSTA (Apr 21, 2006)

Thank's for the pics Sawyer Rob,I really enjoyed them great work.. 

Just touhing on the subject of tractors my father had untill a few years back an 'antique' 1950's Fordson Major tractor ,old she was,reliable she was , she wasn't pretty but then she wasn't ugly,POS no way!!!!...


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## gumneck (Apr 21, 2006)

ROLLACOSTA said:


> Thank's for the pics Sawyer Rob,I really enjoyed them great work..
> 
> Just touhing on the subject of tractors my father had untill a few years back an 'antique' 1950's Fordson Major tractor ,old she was,reliable she was , she wasn't pretty but then she wasn't ugly,POS no way!!!!...



Rolla 

Ford 8n's are old,lightweight,and I love mine to death. I've got a better pic around here somewhere but heres a little piece of mine with my dad on it.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 22, 2006)

Thanks to "everyone" for viewing my milling pictures, glad your enjoying them. They have had over 4,000 hits from this thread alone.

8N's aren't to bad of a tractor. No they aren't perfect, but if they aren't abused they hold up quite well even today. You still can get any part for an 8N quite cheaply too, compare that to a 25 year old yuppie Kubota... I see guys with 25 year old Kubota's needing front end parts, just to fine out they are no longer made! How about those $1,200.00 Kubota ring and pinion gears???

It looks like i've got my Ford sold, but here's a pict. of it anyway. It's been a pretty good tractor. The loader is strong and will easily pick up more than the ones they put on a 25hp compact tractor today.

Rob


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## MotorSeven (Apr 24, 2006)

A curved arm loader on an 8N...now THAT is cool. Homemade? Whoever built it was an artist!

RD


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## Finnbear (Apr 24, 2006)

I don't think homemade. Old but not homemade. I've seen similar more than once here in NE Ohio.
Finnbear



MotorSeven said:


> A curved arm loader on an 8N...now THAT is cool. Homemade? Whoever built it was an artist!
> 
> RD


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 24, 2006)

It really is a good strong loader, and here's the tag on it,






Some of the older farm equipment is built stronger than the newer stuff of the same size!

Rob


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## MotorSeven (Apr 24, 2006)

That is still a cool loader...hope you don't regret selling it, a restoration would be a lot of fun...er a...work!

RD


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## chowdozer (Apr 30, 2006)

Sawyer Rob, I'm impressed with those pics. Very nice.

Wish I were local so I could see that mill in action and buy you a beer.


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## Sawyer Rob (Apr 30, 2006)

Thanks chowdozer,

I'm glad you enjoyed the picts... It takes some time to "take them", and get them all on line in order, so it's great that folks enjoy viewing them too.

Rob







More sawmill pictures http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744


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## olyman (Jul 29, 2006)

sawyer rob--first post--will i be crucified?????--in about post 50--you said about knowing how to cut a log properly--to get the best grade cuts--no argue---but--wife and i went to south of marshalltown,ia last year to a oldtimers convention----guy running the buzz saw--could have shot him--had a 32" fir on the mill--was cutting merrily away--and said to wife to watch closely--that idiot--turned the log 1/4 turn when shouldnt have--was a 10" knot--and that bozo with the turning--had boards with the knot going the wrong way--the knot was halfway thru the 20 foot length!!!!!!!--and every board they took off till the end broke right in half!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! on the knot--if hed left it--the knot would have only had a round portion in the center of that 24" wide board--he was cutting them for his bil--he was unhappy!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and this guy supposidly had 50 yrs experence--bet in those years he ruined a lot of lumber for people!!!!!!!!!!


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## Sawyer Rob (Jul 30, 2006)

Olyman,

Thanks for posting.... I'd also like to add to your post, that sadly there's still folks that don't believe you can "up the grade" of the lumber comeing out of a log "just by turning" at the right time....

I also see guys "wishing" for higher grade logs, and more than likely they can get excelent grade lumber right out of the logs they already have, "IF" they just took the time to learn how to open and saw a log....

Also another excelent way to get more lumber out of a log is to spend a little more than a decent CSM cost, and buy a low end band saw mill.... The pict. tells it all!!

Rob


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## oldsaw (Jul 30, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Olyman,
> 
> Thanks for posting.... I'd also like to add to your post, that sadly there's still folks that don't believe you can "up the grade" of the lumber comeing out of a log "just by turning" at the right time....
> 
> ...



Rob, makes sense, but...

I got into a chainsaw mill for about $700, don't know of a bandmill that can fit that budget. The first logs I cut were in a ravine and not accessible for a bandmill, had to cut on site. At less than $2 bd/ft investment in everything (plus gas and oil), I considered my first set-up "paid for".

Now, I don't have a place to store a bandmill, and would really still need to have one of my big saws anyway to fell and buck the logs I put on it. I can appreciate where you are coming from, but I can't justify the expense or the space needed. Everything has it's place.

Mark


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## thompson1600 (Jul 30, 2006)

I have to agree with Oldsaw on this one. Bandsaws are great for guys doing production and those who have some extra $$$$ laying around, but for most of us who mill up less than 10 trees per year; can't justify the extra expense. Also, it's so much easier to take the stuff right out in the woods and carry the lumber out. I don't need a tractor, skidder or any other large machine to move logs around. I just need my saw and my mill. It's not about making money, it's about building something out of a tree you cut into lumber. I also don't have a kiln, so any tree I cut up will be air drying at least a year. I'm not in a hurry. Yeah, I do lose a little yield, but still better than the tree being turned into firewood. I'm not saying I wouldn't love a band mill. In fact I'm still trying to figure a way to build a sawmill carriage where I could have one carriage that works with my CSM and can also have a band mill put on it.

Tom


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## olyman (Jul 31, 2006)

sawyer--thats true--also note that one they used a blade that had a narrower kerf---want to know how to make your own bandmill--no joke--contact bill reeks 7104 B us hwy 231 south cromwell,ky 42333 ph 1-270/274-3361 and im not joking---lots have built their own--and there as accurate as you build it--tell em scooter sent ya---


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## Sawyer Rob (Jul 31, 2006)

Most CSM'ers spend huge amounts of money before they are done..... Today there's really good quality starter mills that get you milling for $2,695.00, and they work very well. You also then have a 4 stroke motor that sips gas instead of gulping it. Also, NO more 2 stroke oil, NO more bar oil, and they are so much quieter and longer lasting.... I could go on and on, but you get the pict....

No, not everyone needs a bandmill, but in the end many if not most CSM'ers end up haveing a couple thou in all the things they buy, "especially" after they have to replace a worn out power head... Been there done that!

BTW, the extra speed on the band mill, easily lets you sell some lumber and pay the extra it cost to buy one...

And no you don't need a tractor and bla bla bla, we've already dispelled that myth here, long time ago....

Rob


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 31, 2006)

CONTEXT, CONTEXT, CONTEXT!!!!:bang: :deadhorse: :bang: 

 

I love the ease, efficiency and productivity of a bandmill but try to find one that's portable and can cut a 5' wide slab. Each setup has it's own niche where it will smoke all the rest. I like them all! 


P.S.

Ignore the :deadhorse: above... redundant arguments are better than none.


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