# chainsaw powered band mill?



## artie__bc (Sep 25, 2006)

I read a thread somewhere in this forum about a chainsaw powered band mill called a Ripsaw or something like that. Am I allowed to ask on this forum for details about same, and where to get one?

artie


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## Ianab (Sep 25, 2006)

More info here http://www.ripsaw.com/

Maybe some other members will have some first hand feedback on how well it actually works?

Cheers

Ian


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## t_andersen (Sep 25, 2006)

Yes, please, let's have some feedback from users


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## flht01 (Sep 25, 2006)

artie__bc said:


> I read a thread somewhere in this forum about a chainsaw powered band mill called a Ripsaw or something like that. Am I allowed to ask on this forum for details about same, and where to get one?
> 
> artie



The thread below has a lot of information about using the Ripsaw and it along with several discussions with "woodshop" convinced me to buy one. I've enjoyed it and feel like it's a great addition to a csm. I've only cut about 1000 bf +/- of hardwood and close to that in SYP so I'm still a little green laugh: no pun intended) but woodshop has a lot of experience with one and is a wealth of information.

There are several Ripsaw users on this board that can answer any questions you might have. Ask away. 

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=19709

I'm still trying to decide whether I'm going to keep mine or not after fabrication on the bandmill I've got ordered is done (several more months). After you've had time to absorb all the research let me know if you're in the market for one.


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## woodshop (Sep 25, 2006)

Here are a few pics of the Ripsaw in action... I'm slicing up a 32inch red oak that had blown down. In these pics, I'm cutting 7 inch wide boards from a 7x22 inch cant, 8 ft long.


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## woodshop (Sep 25, 2006)

Although you CAN mill a log like this 32 inch log with a Ripsaw alone, it would be tedious, because the Ripsaw will only cut 14" wide and 9 inches deep. You would be taking off a slab, turning the log, take off another, turn log etc etc. For anything over about a 20 inch dia log, the Ripsaw is not ideal by itself. I use a 36" csm to get the log into cants where the Ripsaw can then do its thing. Here are a few pics of how I got that 32 inch log down to where I can mill it with a Ripsaw.

Attach the aluminum guide bar to log with pins tapped into end of log and set the csm on it, ready to mill.




slice off first slab




I trim off sides of this slab if it has enough "meat" and use the Ripsaw to get at least one or two boards from it.




after trimming off two more slabs (I roll the 1500lb log with an auto floor jack and cant hook) I take a bigger bite, and slice off a big cant like this one




I can then mill that into boards with the Ripsaw, this is the last board, you can see the stack of milled boards in the forground.


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 25, 2006)

Great picts., thanks for posting them!

Many years ago I almost bought a Ripsaw. I still have the video they sent me, around here someplace... I already had been milling with a CSM but i didn't buy the Ripsaw because i was afraid i would outgrow it too fast. I already figured out that a bandmill would not only saw logs, it would make me money too....

Anyway, i ended up buying my first Norwood Lumbermate instead, and then sold it for $800.00 less than i paid for it, after useing it for EIGHT years!!! Man in 8 years that thing saved and made me a lot of $$!!

Anyway, the comparison i'd like to see is, the Ripsaw vs the Delta saw!!! I also almost bought one of them!! I sure like the idea of the 4 stroke motor on the Delta...

Thanks again for the picts...

Rob


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## smithie55 (Sep 25, 2006)

Excellent pic's Woodshop.
It looks like you are having to put some forward pressure on the ripsaw.
Is it just the pics or do you have to put more forward pressure then you do the CSM?
Nice setup you got there.
I'm working toward the same handy mobile setup.


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## woodshop (Sep 25, 2006)

smithie55 said:


> Excellent pic's Woodshop.
> It looks like you are having to put some forward pressure on the ripsaw.
> Is it just the pics or do you have to put more forward pressure then you do the CSM?
> Nice setup you got there.
> I'm working toward the same handy mobile setup.



Actually, when the blade is sharp and new, it takes less umph to push the Ripsaw down the log than the csm, but usually with my csm, I'm cutting much wider slice, thus need to push harder. With the Ripsaw, I tend to kinda lean into the mill as its moving down the log, adjusting leg/body pressure to keep the saw in wood, and not over revving. It just takes less energy that way than trying to push it with arms and upper body completely.


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## woodshop (Sep 25, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Great picts., thanks for posting them!
> 
> Anyway, the comparison i'd like to see is, the Ripsaw vs the Delta saw!!! I also almost bought one of them!! I sure like the idea of the 4 stroke motor on the Delta...
> 
> Thanks again for the picts... Rob



Curious, what is the "Delta saw" you refer to, is it a portable handheld mill like the Ripsaw?

If I had space, I'd own a larger semi-permanent bandmill, as well as my Ripsaw and csm. The Ripsaw was not designed to compete with larger bandmills, its claim to fame is its portability. You can easily carry the mill to the log, vs trying to get a 2000 lb log to where ever your mill is set up. Something few other mills can boast. NOT trying to knock the Logosol folks... please... but even they are not as portable. They have thier niche too... hey can't we all be friends?????


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 25, 2006)

Woodshop, if the manufacturers of the Ripsaw aren't paying you a commission on the advertising you do for them, they should. Your posts here give much more comprehensive information on the saw than their own website does. It's kinda cool they used some of your pictures, though. Keep it coming!


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Woodshop, if the manufacturers of the Ripsaw aren't paying you a commission on the advertising you do for them, they should. Your posts here give much more comprehensive information on the saw than their own website does. It's kinda cool they used some of your pictures, though. Keep it coming!



opcorn: ...nope, I have no more affiliation or business relationship with Ripsaw than you do aggie. I do know from talking with them that they are a great bunch of folks that try and keep customers happy. I do like that little mill though, and I sent them my writeup I posted here on AS as well as a disc full of pics and told them they could use anything they want. They did


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## smithie55 (Sep 26, 2006)

?Hey Woodshop,
What size power head are you using on the ripsaw?


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

smithie55 said:


> ?Hey Woodshop,
> What size power head are you using on the ripsaw?



A bandmill takes less power to slice through wood than a csm, plus it's never going to be cutting more than a 14" wide board, so a 60cc saw is plenty. I have an MS361 on it now, and I am never lacking enough power for the mill. Easy stuff like 10" softwood, with a sharp blade I run as fast as 5 seconds/foot. A larger saw I would think would only add that much more weight to the mill. Have to say I have never ran one with a larger saw on it though, so can't really say if it wouldn't be even that much better. Flht01, what powerhead do you have on yours?


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## flht01 (Sep 26, 2006)

woodshop said:


> A bandmill takes less power to slice through wood than a csm, plus it's never going to be cutting more than a 14" wide board, so a 60cc saw is plenty. I have an MS361 on it now, and I am never lacking enough power for the mill. Easy stuff like 10" softwood, with a sharp blade I run as fast as 5 seconds/foot. A larger saw I would think would only add that much more weight to the mill. Have to say I have never ran one with a larger saw on it though, so can't really say if it wouldn't be even that much better. Flht01, what powerhead do you have on yours?



I'm running a Stihl MS-361 and never feel like I'm short on power, even in the hardwood. I usually keep the throttle at less than wide open even on the wider cuts. The 361 seems to be about right as far as power vrs weight. I was also very surprised at how many cuts I can make on one tank of gas and since the bar oiler is turned all the way down, I can get two tanks of gas to every bar oil fillup. (The bar oiler only has to feed the drive/ring gears.) Just a little added bonus.

I know some of us are starting to sound like an on-line advertisement for the ripsaw but it really is a nice complement to a csm, especially if you already have a powerhead. I studied _woodshop's_ methods and also use a 36" csm to build the cants. I believe I use more fuel and make more sawdust with the three cuts needed to make a cant using the csm than I do making the rest of the cuts with the ripsaw. Like _woodshop_, I have nothing to gain by "advertising" their product. Just keep in mind, the ripsaw (like a csm) was not meant for production.

For those of you that knew I have a manual bandmill ordered and are wondering why since I like the ripsaw so much, I've still got one barn to finish tearing down and lost two more (between me and my dad) to hurricane Rita last year. We finally decided to replace them (subject to change) using rough cut lumber from a few pines off his place so I got on the phone and ordered a bandmill. The thought of cutting that much pine with a csm and ripsaw  was a little much.


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## Rodney Sinclair (Sep 26, 2006)

woodshop said:


> Curious, what is the "Delta saw" you refer to, is it a portable handheld mill like the Ripsaw?
> 
> If I had space, I'd own a larger semi-permanent bandmill, as well as my Ripsaw and csm. The Ripsaw was not designed to compete with larger bandmills, its claim to fame is its portability. You can easily carry the mill to the log, vs trying to get a 2000 lb log to where ever your mill is set up. Something few other mills can boast. NOT trying to knock the Logosol folks... please... but even they are not as portable. They have thier niche too... hey can't we all be friends?????



Just a couple of comments here, since I use the Logosol and I questioned the post about the "cheaper cost to get started." The M7 or the WoodWorkers Mill might not be quite as "portable" as the Ripsaw, but the Big Mill is. And it is made by Logosol. Cheaper also. A lot cheaper.
You know, I looked at the Ripsaw and once thought about buying one. In the end, since my brother has a 36" Alaskan (It's OK I guess) I went with the M7. The shocking thing about that is after reading on these Forums about what a mistake it is, the M7 now sits on the same spot that the Honda driven Norwood used to sit.
To me what is being said over and over again, after removing all the BS is the chainsaw is doing all the work and the band saw getting the credit.
Of course we can all be friends. It never entered my mind we wasn't.
Rodney


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## RaisedByWolves (Sep 26, 2006)

Just thought I would chime in here.....



I can vouch for the ripsaw and the praise given it by Woodshop.(Not that my .02c is needed)



Woodshop sliced up some poplar at my place and I must say that this mill was very impressive. Looked easy to use and as fast as stated if not faster.


All in all a very nice machine.


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

Rodney Sinclair said:


> To me what is being said over and over again, after removing all the BS is the chainsaw is doing all the work and the band saw getting the credit.
> Of course we can all be friends. It never entered my mind we wasn't.
> Rodney


Hey Rodney, was hoping you would chime in on this.  Please for my sake though, explain better what you mean above about the chainsaw doing the work, and bandsaw getting the credit. I'm a little slow sometimes... honestly don't get your point. I may very well agree with you if I did.

btw... how heavy is that Logosol Big Mill, and how easy is it to carry 100 yards into the woods and set up to where you're actually milling lumber? Also, after adding the cost of a relatively big saw I assume it would need as most milling does, curious how much of a cost diff there really is after taking that into consideration. Remember, you can power a Ripsaw with a $4-500 60cc saw. Most milling needs a more powerful (read more expensive) bigger saw. My 395XP with 36 inch bar/ripping chain was almost a grand. 

Again... not wanting to start a pissing match, I'm actually curious what the cost/other differences there are between these mills. I have the feeling, as I said before, that each has it's niche, and thus can't really be compared side by side as if they were both apples.


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## flht01 (Sep 26, 2006)

Rodney Sinclair said:


> ...the M7 now sits on the same spot that the Honda driven Norwood used to sit...



Hello Rodney,
Read you post 4-5 times trying to make sure I understood what you meant. Unless I'm mistaken, your saying you prefer a chainsaw mill over the bandmill (Norwood) for all your sawing? I've heard of a lot of people that went from a csm mill to a bandmill as their production needs increased but I think your post is the first I've ever read that preferred a semi-stationary type csm over a bandmill. I sure like to hear your thoughts on this.

Kevin


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## Rodney Sinclair (Sep 26, 2006)

I will try Wooshop, or Dave I think they called you. Everybody I know that has a bandmill will always go back to a chain saw when the log is too big to fit through thier mill. Even you say you use the chainsaw to remove the bark and cut the log down to fit. And to save your band blades.
As far as the size of the saw, you keep talkin' about the large (395) saw on the Alaskan. If you got to buy a large saw for the Alaskan anyway, I fell to see how you get it's cheaper. That would only be if you didn't have to have a big saw. Right?
Now about the Big Mill. It is a couple of adjustable guide rail supports that you screw into each end of the log your milling. The supports along with the guide rail (which looks a lot like the one you use with your Ripsaw), 15 maybe 20#. Cost, I'm guessin' $500 not counting the 395 which you already got. Ted does it even cheaper since he uses the TimberGig($160) and a guide rail he built that works pretty much the same way.
Like you said, no pissin' match. Just a difference of opinion. Different road to get the same place.
Rodney


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

Rodney Sinclair said:


> As far as the size of the saw, you keep talkin' about the large (395) saw on the Alaskan. If you got to buy a large saw for the Alaskan anyway, I fell to see how you get it's cheaper. That would only be if you didn't have to have a big saw. Right?
> Rodney



Correct... my point there was that you can't just compare mills, you have to look at the total package, and the Ripsaw does fine with a $4-500 powerhead, where the Logosol mills need a saw/bar closer to $1000. Add the mill and saw together, and THEN compare costs. Even then, no doubt about it, the Ripsaw is indeed about $400 more than Big Mill. Total Ripsaw mill and saw will set you back $2100 or more depending on what saw you power it with. Big Mill with 395XP and 36"bar, about $1750. I jumped on the Logosol site and watched the videos though, and I gotta say the 10ft Ripsaw/aluminum guide bar system seems like a lot less hassle than the 9ft Logosol guide when it comes to setting up and breaking down. The Ripsaw guide bars (10 ft) weighs about 22lbs, and will pop on and off log with just two pins hammered into end of log. No screwing and unscrewing jigs. 







When you're slicing slabs off the sides of a log, which requires turning that log and repositioning that guide several times, that issue would be important for me.

So what do you get for the $400 more a Ripsaw setup costs you over the Big Mill? Well, a little faster milling in hardwood, slightly smoother boards (debatable, going by my experience with my csm), and an extra board for every 6 or so milled from your log since you are using a band and not a chain. That last one, is not debatable. :biggrinbounce2: Weight... didn't find that on their website, but Ripsaw and powerhead with 10ft of guide bar is about 75lbs. It looks like the Big Mill with a 395XP/36 in bar would be in same ballpark, depends on how much their 9 ft guide system weighs. Along those lines though, another Ripsaw advantage would be the ability to mill longer than a 9ft log. As long as you keep attaching those Ripsaw 5ft guide bars end to end, you can mill that length log. Cost of operation... bar/ripping chain vs bandmill blades... again going by my own personal experience with my csm, its about even in the end, but my Ripsaw powerhead uses far less fuel/oil than my big saw. 

Again... having never used or seen one in action, really can't say. Going by the website and what I've been told though, the Ripsaw system, although a bit more expensive, looks to be a little easier to set up and use, and takes less of your log when you mill. As Rodney says though, different ways to get to the same end result. Rough lumber for the woodshop!! 

Rodney if I missed anything, let us know. I DO tend to be a bit biased towards what I have and use as we all do. That's true in my woodshop with all those toys also.


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

Just saw on the Logosol website that THEIR guide bars can also be attached and extended end to end to one another, thus allowing milling longer logs aslo, so I was incorrect when saying that the Ripsaw ability to do that would be an advantage. My goof


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## TedChristiansen (Sep 26, 2006)

This is an interesting discussion and one that will be repeated countless times over the years. The main point is that each individual situation and set of objectives, requirements and constraints direct a person toward a particular solution.

In my case the TimberJig was the lowest cost investment: $165 for the jig, $800 for Husqvarna 385XP + 24" bar/chain + 36" bar/chain. I used this for about one year.

Pushing the saw through the wood the entire time and working on the ground is very tiring. So I decided to upgrade to the Woodworkers Mill (WWM). It is still portable, but not as much as the TimberJig. Being able to stand upright and turn the crank to move the saw is just awesome and plain easy. After 5 hours I am not tired at all. Over the last couple of months since getting it, I have found it to be portable enough to get to the logs, so the extra weight and size havent been an issue.

I now use both together. I use the TimberJig for quartering and splitting large (> 24" dia) logs, and then process those pieces on the WWM. This is good combination for me.

Regards,

Ted


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## Rodney Sinclair (Sep 26, 2006)

Woodshop, I will agree that you are biased. Really biased. Now I don't know what you watched on Logosol's site, but it sure don't sound like anything I got. I said it had adjustable supports on each end. The key word being "adjustable." On top of that, each end has a scale. So I don't know how to answer your questions. The only thing I can think of is you must be watching something about what they call the Timber Gig. But it also has scales built on. Thats the way Ted does it. I think.
Rodney


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 26, 2006)

> Curious, what is the "Delta saw" you refer to, is it a portable handheld mill like the Ripsaw?



The Delta saw was/is like a Ripsaw, just a little bigger/heavier and had a small 4 stroke motor on it...



> Everybody I know that has a bandmill will always go back to a chain saw when the log is too big to fit through thier mill. Even you say you use the chainsaw to remove the bark and cut the log down to fit. And to save your band blades.



I got a chuckle out of that.... I "use to be" a CSMer myself and i'd be happy to point you to a hundred more of us that would NEVER go back to a CSM after owning a bandmill.... Don't call me a lier, just go to numerous sites on line, and ask the bandmillers "if" they moved up from a CSM, and "if" they would go back!! I'll bet you, you will get more than a hundred in short order that won't go back....

For that "once in a while" log that's bigger than 36", i just split it with my chainsaw free hand, and mill it on my bandmill, no problem at all... For the rest of the hundreds of logs, i roll them up on the deck and get after it... I can saw them FAST enough to easily pay the difference to own a bandmill... I can also saw FAST enough to easily pay for any added equipment i want too, that is, "if" i wanted to.. I saw 99% of the time for myself... I've turned down a lot of jobs in the past...

Today i sawed out enough (two logs) low grade oak to put a landing and steps to go from my house to my garage and the better grade went on stickers... It took all of one hour to saw it all out and then i got to enjoy the nice weather doing something else, like picking my apples...

No pi$$ing match here, there's a place for all kinds of mills....

Todays milling, one of the two logs i sawed.







This one is on the bunks now, and i'll "quarter saw" it when i get to it...






Happy milling with what ever you use...

Rob


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## dustytools (Sep 26, 2006)

I think that the satisfaction of milling your own lumber to use in your woodshop is shared by everyone on this site equally. I have never owned or operated a bandmill, but would love to own one sometime in the future. I guess that I might be called weird for saying this but After milling all day with my csm I feel like a million bucks. I cant really call it work regardless of how hard or not hard it is to run. Seems like the wife cant pry me out of the woods. Maybe when I get a little older my tune will change, but for now I absolutely love my CSM.


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

Rodney Sinclair said:


> Woodshop, I will agree that you are biased. Really biased.


WELL... Rodney I'm shocked, SHOCKED I tell ya, that there is actual bias towards a certain brand of saw/mix oil/chain/you name it, or towards a certain type of saw or mill by members of this forum!! Well I never...


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

dustytools said:


> I guess that I might be called weird for saying this but After milling all day with my csm I feel like a million bucks. I cant really call it work regardless of how hard or not hard it is to run.



Dusty well said... as I said several times in this forum, every time I open up a log with my csm or little bandmill, I feel like a kid in a candy store. A hard day milling, csm or bandmill or Logosol or WHATEVER... not only burns calories I need to be a burnin', but the icing on the cake is at the end of the day you have WOOD for the woodshop.


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Today i sawed out enough (two logs) low grade oak to put a landing and steps to go from my house to my garage and the better grade went on stickers... It took all of one hour to saw it all out and then i got to enjoy the nice weather doing something else, like picking my apples...
> 
> No pi$$ing match here, there's a place for all kinds of mills....
> 
> ...


If I had room enough (and some day I might have), I would have a full blown bandmill like yours Sawyer Rob... THANKS for the pics. Curious what do you use to get those logs to that nice rig. You have a tractor maybe? Also, what do you use to cover that engine to keep it out of the weather... ever think of building a shelter over the mill? I know... another project!!


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## Rodney Sinclair (Sep 26, 2006)

Rob, what I said was, everbody I know with a bandsaw will use a chainsaw to split a log to make it fit. As for as everbody selling a bandsaw and going "back" to a CSM, I don't know. I did and to tell the truth, I don't really gave a damn what everybody else does.

Rodney


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

TedChristiansen said:


> This is an interesting discussion and one that will be repeated countless times over the years. The main point is that each individual situation and set of objectives, requirements and constraints direct a person toward a particular solution...... Pushing the saw through the wood the entire time and working on the ground is very tiring. So I decided to upgrade to the Woodworkers Mill (WWM). It is still portable, but not as much as the TimberJig. Being able to stand upright and turn the crank to move the saw is just awesome and plain easy. After 5 hours I am not tired at all. Over the last couple of months since getting it, I have found it to be portable enough to get to the logs, so the extra weight and size haven't been an issue. I now use both together. I use the TimberJig for quartering and splitting large (> 24" dia) logs, and then process those pieces on the WWM. This is good combination for me.
> Ted



Thanks Ted, you're right, different perspective, different set of objectives, requirements and constraints. How do you transport that WWM, just carry it or do you use a little wagon as I do? Takes me two trips to get everything I need to the log, mill, guide bars, tool box etc. Countless trips out carrying the lumber back to the van. You are right on target about working on the ground. I'm only 53, but my knees already can't take much of that nonsense. That's why I get everything up on little horses whenever I can. As for pushing it down the log, I like Roller-matics approach with his rollers riding on the guide bar. Not enough to retrofit my mill(s) like that, but a good idea as it takes the strain off the operator a bit, just as your crank does. Of course the flip side of that is I NEED to burn calories and get a work out in the woods... so I'm not all that concerned having to work a bit when milling. 

I'd like to see that WWM in action... next time you hit the woods with it, take a camera and let us see how it works. I'm sure others would like to see your system in action too.


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## flht01 (Sep 26, 2006)

woodshop said:


> ... That's why I get everything up on little horses whenever I can. ...



Dave, Can you give me the dimensions on horses you use? Height x Width

Thanks, Kevin


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## woodshop (Sep 26, 2006)

flht01 said:


> Dave, Can you give me the dimensions on horses you use? Height x Width
> Thanks, Kevin


...sure, will get exact specs, including the indexable chocks I built into them, tomorrow after work. Speaking of work.... A BAD DAY MILLING IN THE WOODS IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAY AT WORK!!


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 26, 2006)

> Curious what do you use to get those logs to that nice rig. You have a tractor maybe? Also, what do you use to cover that engine to keep it out of the weather...



I'm sure you already know that i have a tractor, BUT, does that mean i HAVE to have a tractor???? No it doesn't!!

A friend of mine drags his logs to his mill with his car useing a chain on the trailor hitch. He then uses Norwoods log loader to roll them right on the mill. Another friend unloads his logs on a slight incline, and then rolls them down to and onto the mill with a canthook... There are many ways around all of the log issues without "haveing" to have a tractor.

My mill can easily be moved with an ATV, and it can sit right on the ground, so getting a log onto the deck isn't all that bad...

I cover the head on my mill, also i can lift it right off the track and put in in my shop if i want to.... I may build a "doghouse" over the head sometime, but i've just been too busy to get it done the last couple years, and i never feel like it in the winter!!

Rob


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## flht01 (Sep 26, 2006)

woodshop said:


> ...sure, will get exact specs, including the indexable chocks I built into them, tomorrow after work.



Thanks Dave. I'm going to get a set built to mill off of along with a set to stack the boards on.



woodshop said:


> Speaking of work.... A BAD DAY MILLING IN THE WOODS IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAY AT WORK!!



Especially with the well known superior Ripsaw, no matter what anybody thinks :hmm3grin2orange: (sorry Rodney, couldn't pass that up  )


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## artie__bc (Sep 27, 2006)

Phew, talk about opening a can of worms! All I did was ask one little question! It's great hearing averyone's (varying) viewpoints & stories on why they use what they use. I use an Alaskan because:

a) I had an 090 chainsaw that I got real cheap

b) The logs I cut are often over 36", not straight, and 
many times have rocks and nails in them

c) The volume of wood I cut (at this time anyway)
doesn't justify me buying a full blown bandmill

and d) I can't afford a real mill anyway!

So, a CSM is what works the best for me right now, although something like that Ripsaw might be the way to go, if it could do say, a 24" cut or so.

cheers, artie


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 27, 2006)

This thread has had some interesting reading for sure. Debates like this are great for anyone with a true desire to learn about mills and milling equipment as long as the participants maintain respect for the other's opinions' even if they disagree. Let's keep it going!

It's evident that an individual's choice of equipment is as much personal preference as anything else so here's my 2 cents. I usually use a CSM only for logs larger than 36" because I have a really nice Logmaster LM4 I can use. It's hard to push that CSM down a small log while thinking how much faster even a small bandmill would be. If my situation were different and I didn't have use of the LM4, I would buy a small or mid-size bandmill to partner with the CSM. The main reason for this would be the fact that most of my milling experience has been on a bandmill vice a Logosol or similar mill. Bottom line is they all can get the job done and make their owner's happy in the process. Who knows, if I could get my hands on a Logosol for a while, my preference may change. Meanwhile, the LM4 kicks A$$, takes names and gives me lots of lumber!


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 27, 2006)

artie__bc said:


> Phew, talk about opening a can of worms! All I did was ask one little question! It's great hearing averyone's (varying) viewpoints & stories on why they use what they use. I use an Alaskan because:
> 
> a) I had an 090 chainsaw that I got real cheap
> 
> ...



I heard a rumor (from Woodshop, I believe) that Ripsaw is introducing a larger model soon. Can anyone confirm this?


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## flht01 (Sep 27, 2006)

artie__bc said:


> Phew, talk about opening a can of worms! ...



You "done good" asking that question. Look at all the different milling methods being discussed here, even a little good natured ribbing here and there. The one thing that realy amazes me about milling, regardless of the method used, is how much we seem to enjoy it. _dustytools_ said it best:



dustytools said:


> I think that the satisfaction of milling your own lumber to use in your woodshop is shared by everyone on this site equally. ... After milling all day with my csm I feel like a million bucks. I cant really call it work regardless of how hard or not hard it is to run. Seems like the wife cant pry me out of the woods. Maybe when I get a little older my tune will change, but for now I absolutely love my CSM.



I'm with aggie on this one, I'd like to see it going for awhile longer. I'd really like to see another picture or two of that LM4 in action.


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## flht01 (Sep 27, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> I'm sure you already know that i have a tractor, BUT, does that mean i HAVE to have a tractor???? No it doesn't!!
> 
> A friend of mine drags his logs to his mill with his car useing a chain on the trailor hitch. He then uses Norwoods log loader to roll them right on the mill. Another friend unloads his logs on a slight incline, and then rolls them down to and onto the mill with a canthook... There are many ways around all of the log issues without "haveing" to have a tractor.
> 
> ...



Nice looking mill Rob, and thanks for the pictures. One of the things I really liked about the Norwood mill was the trailer package and being able to trailer the bed extension attached. I also like the way the torsion axles/wheels are meant to be removed letting the bed sit on the ground. I think the Timberking 1220 works the same way, but it's design (bed weight) prevents you from being able to trailer the 7 foot bed extension attached. You're only suppose to trailer the standard 12 foot (cut length) bed. Lot of choices on the manual mills, all seem to produce good results.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 27, 2006)

flht01 said:


> I'm with aggie on this one, I'd like to see it going for awhile longer. I'd really like to see another picture or two of that LM4 in action.



I see that I got 'tarded again. It's a LM3, not LM4. They are pretty much the same except for the engine (43HP vs 51HP). This particular one has rail extentions added by the factory to cut up to 30' long. Here ya' go.


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## flht01 (Sep 27, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I see that I got 'tarded again. It's a LM3, not LM4. They are pretty much the same except for the engine (43HP vs 51HP). This particular one has rail extentions added by the factory to cut up to 30' long. Here ya' go.



Are those fence post in the background of the second picture mill cut? If so, did you treat them before building the fence?

30 foot cut, I'm impressed


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## woodshop (Sep 27, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> This thread has had some interesting reading for sure. Debates like this are great for anyone with a true desire to learn about mills and milling equipment as long as the participants maintain respect for the other's opinions' even if they disagree. Let's keep it going!



Key word here is "respect". I honestly don't want to necessarily knock somebody else's product, but I would like to compare the pros and cons of each system. There are BOTH in EVERY mill made. I've said several times in different threads that I know very little of the Logosol products other than what I can see on thier website, and the few posts here. I liked TedChristiansen post on his reasons for why he likes his Logosol WWM system. What that did was fuel my interest, and as I said, I would LOVE to not only talk about it, what it can and can not do, but I'd like to see it in action. What I'd love to do is RUN one, or be there when somebody did. 

My main goal here is INFORMATION... I really do want to find out the good and bad about the different systems. In some cases, like aggies 43HP LM3, I figure in my book the only con would be I could never afford it. 

Now Sawyer Rob's Norwood... that I could maybe afford if I had the space. That looks like a mill I could really use, and maybe even make some money with. 

Well, got my Baileys package today with the breaker/spinner and 100ft of ripping chain. Time to feed my csm.


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## woodshop (Sep 27, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I heard a rumor (from Woodshop, I believe) that Ripsaw is introducing a larger model soon. Can anyone confirm this?



Are you talking about their Ripsaw XL4? It is basically a ripsaw, but yes a little bigger, and rides on tracks with a 4 cycle engine, similar to many other low end bandmills on the market now. You can get up to an 8HP engine for it, which they say will cut hardwood 10 ft/min, and softwood 15 ft/min. I say low end meaning relatively low price, and not necessarily designed for heavy duty production work. I've never seen one, nor talked to anybody that has, but my take from what is on their website, which is not necessarily as informative or as full of pics or video as I would like, is that if I was going to buy a full blown bandmill, I would want something bigger, like a Norwood or an LT-10 or 15. Of course both of those are much more money... you get the picture.


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## woodshop (Sep 27, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> A friend of mine drags his logs to his mill with his car useing a chain on the trailor hitch. He then uses Norwoods log loader to roll them right on the mill. Another friend unloads his logs on a slight incline, and then rolls them down to and onto the mill with a canthook... There are many ways around all of the log issues without "having" to have a tractor.
> 
> My mill can easily be moved with an ATV, and it can sit right on the ground, so getting a log onto the deck isn't all that bad...Rob



Thanks Rob... I've pulled logs through the woods with an ATV and chain... it didn't work all that well, but eventually I DID get the log to where I wanted it. I always figured that if I did get a place that was big enough for a mill, and then got something like your mill, I would have to invest in a tractor with a three point hitch that would turn it into a mini-skidder. But as you say, you don't HAVE to have heavy equipment. Point I guess is, there are lots of ways to get around problems. Hey... I move 2000 lb logs using an automobile floor jack... there are ways around stuff for sure.


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 27, 2006)

Am i right that an XL4 is just under $3,000.00??? Well, i've sawn with both the Mizer LT10 and 15. Personally i wouldn't even consider the 10. The 15 is a pretty nice saw, but the Norwood LM2000 is more saw for less $$$$ with many better features over the 15.

Back to the XL4. Norwood has an Lumberlite 24 that i have also sawn with. It's "also" under $3,000.00 and it blows the LT10 out of the water... I'll bet you it would blow the XL4 out of the water too...

Ever see a LL24??? They are a LOT of saw for the $$ they cost, and i know guys sawing with them nearly every day and are very happy with them.

The Norwood LM2000 IS a bigger heavier mill that will take a steady diet of big logs, but the LL24 did impress me for it's size.

Rob


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## woodshop (Sep 27, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Back to the XL4. Norwood has an Lumberlite 24 that i have also sawn with. It's "also" under $3,000.00 and it blows the LT10 out of the water... I'll bet you it would blow the XL4 out of the water too...
> 
> Ever see a LL24??? They are a LOT of saw for the $$ they cost, and i know guys sawing with them nearly every day and are very happy with them.
> 
> ...


...IF I had the space, I would opt for something with more guts than the XL4 or maybe even the LL24. I'd beg, borrow or steal till I got a bigger rig that could handle more production. I like the LM2000, I think they got more than a few things right when they designed it.


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 27, 2006)

> Thanks Rob... I've pulled logs through the woods with an ATV and chain... it didn't work all that well, but eventually I DID get the log to where I wanted it.



I have a friend who skids some really big logs with his 4 wheeler. He bought an Norwood "arch" and it lifts one end of the log when you drive ahead with it. He has no problem at all useing that arch even on some fairly big logs....

Another way he hauls big logs is with a trailor he built for that purpose. He uses it when he has to go down the road, or further away for a log. Here he is "parbuckleing" a log onto it,







I do a similar thing, only on a bigger scale as i have bigger equipment....

 Rob


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## woodshop (Sep 27, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Another way he hauls big logs is with a trailor he built for that purpose. He uses it when he has to go down the road, or further away for a log. Here he is "parbuckleing" a log onto it,



Now THAT is interesting... doesn't look all that difficult to build. For logs that size this looks OK. Much over 20" though, would have to be a pretty sturdy trailer, like those you see made from the back of a an old pickup truck. I've looked at those arches you can get for ATVs and tractors... there are several brands advertised in the Sawmill and Woodlot mag. Right now, don't have the room for one. Thanks for the pic


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## dustytools (Sep 27, 2006)

I have a pic. posted on first time milling on homemade carriage and rails which shows a log trailer that I made from a piece of guardrail a cee-channel a couple of lawn-mower wheels and tires plus a homemade axle from some one inch round stock and 2x2 angle-iron. Simply back it up to the log with the ATV, place the short section of guardrail (ramp) against the log ,then pull it up with a come-a-long and chain and off you go. Works great for me. I tried to re-post the pic. here but couldnt figure out how to do it. Sorry.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 27, 2006)

flht01 said:


> Are those fence post in the background of the second picture mill cut? If so, did you treat them before building the fence?
> 
> 30 foot cut, I'm impressed



Dunno, this mill and property belongs to a friend of ours. I'm sure they were cut on a mill somewhere.:hmm3grin2orange: Just kidding, I know what you mean.

There is a place in Houston that will accept pine lumber to be pressure treated with their regular loads. The name is Bayou City Lumber and they seem to be good people.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 27, 2006)

I just was playing with the virtual Lumbermate on Norwood's site. Pretty cool.

http://www.norwoodindustries.com/buildsawmill.aspx


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 27, 2006)

*Moving Logs*

The only way to go!






:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 27, 2006)

And here i thought THIS was the only way to go!!!


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## flht01 (Sep 27, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Dunno, this mill and property belongs to a friend of ours. I'm sure they were cut on a mill somewhere.:hmm3grin2orange: Just kidding, I know what you mean.
> 
> There is a place in Houston that will accept pine lumber to be pressure treated with their regular loads. The name is Bayou City Lumber and they seem to be good people.



There's a place about 30 miles north of here that will cresote milled lumber, recommends letting it air dry about 2 months first. I'll give Bayou City a call and get a fews prices. Thanks for the tip.


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## flht01 (Sep 27, 2006)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I just was playing with the virtual Lumbermate on Norwood's site. Pretty cool.
> 
> http://www.norwoodindustries.com/buildsawmill.aspx



That Norwood mill was tempting, I mean really tempting. The only thing that kept me from placing an order was the shipping costs, they wanted full shipping costs for every item. No discount for a package mill. I can understand that, shipping by weight that is, but just couldn't do it knowing I could drive a couple of hours and pull one home from the Logmaster builder.

Keep hanging around those websites and you'll end up with one. You knnow that LM3 needs a little company :hmm3grin2orange:


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## flht01 (Sep 27, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> I have a friend who skids some really big logs with his 4 wheeler. He bought an Norwood "arch" and it lifts one end of the log when you drive ahead with it. He has no problem at all useing that arch even on some fairly big logs....
> 
> Another way he hauls big logs is with a trailor he built for that purpose. He uses it when he has to go down the road, or further away for a log. Here he is "parbuckleing" a log onto it,
> 
> ...



The Cook's mills use a 12 volt winch to load logs on their non-hydraulic mills using a setup like that. I watched a video of them loading a 39" +/- log that looked to be about 10' long using that setup. It was too big for the mill to saw, they loaded it to prove the bed could handle it. Considering the jump in price from a completely manual mill to a hydraulic mill, I thought it was a good "poor man's" loader.


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