# Vermeer SC252 - changing teeth



## t-stumpin

I just bought a used Vermeer SC252 stump grinder and I'm new in this line of work. I don't have the manuals, but they're on order. Can anyone tell me what tool I should to buy to make life easy changing teeth? Maybe I just need a wrench, but I heard they should be torque'd.


----------



## Dadatwins

1/2" drive hex nut socket and good quality breaker bar will help out a bunch when changing teeth. I also use never seize on the cap screws when reassembling to help keep them from getting frozen. Do a search on site about stump grinders, lots of good info around. Read the manuals when you get them and be very careful, stump machine can be very dangerous.
I would also suggest reading this thread from start to finish to understand how a moment of inattention with a grinder can be life changing. Good luck and be careful.
http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23463&page=1&pp=15


----------



## Stumper

The 1/2 inch drive 1/2inch Hex socket and breaker bar OR a 1/2 inch hex wrench and a 2.5 foot length of 3/4 inch tubing. Grab the cheater bar at about 18 inch mark and tighten to the technical description-Tighter than heck then three more rounds. (In other words about as tight as you can get 'em with that length of lever. When you loosen use the full length of cheater so you don't rupture yourself. Anti seize is a very good idea. When the bolt heads start rounding replace them right away-if you keep using them when they start wearing and deforming you will wind up with some stuck and have to torch then out! (A program of replacing bolts after every seven-ten tooth changes would be prudent.)


----------



## DDM

I Bought one of these it works very well on a job site. And it will torque the bolts down. 
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=6347


----------



## t-stumpin

Thanks for the insight guys. I have no idea what the torque spec is, do I have to worry about anything breaking if I tighten too hard? Not even sure if this is possible. The cordleass Dewalt tool looks nice DDM and I'm sure the price is just as nice.


----------



## Dadatwins

Not sure about overtightening cap screws, I guess anything could break with enough leverage, but my guess is the head would strip out first. I know you can strip out the heads very easily if they are not cleaned out properly and worn down like stumper said. I use a 24" breaker bar on mine and am happy with the results. I have heard stories of folks using 6' pipes to tighten cap screws which is overkill in my opinion. 

DDM does that unit have enough torque to loosen the caps screws after use?


----------



## intheelements

I have a vermeer 222 and use a torque wrench. The service manual for the 222 states a torque of 250 to 270 foot pounds. I also use never seize on the threads and I remove the bolts with a breaker bar and a 3 foot pipe. I use a impact wrench (pneumatic) and then the torque wrench to replace the teeth. Never had a stripped bolt or a bolt loosen up


----------



## t-stumpin

OK, I think I'm ready to go to work. What method is best used to keep the wheel from turning while you arm wrestle the teeth on and off?


----------



## Dadatwins

Should be a hole on both sides of the case around the cutter wheel. Hole is used to place solid rod through and it will lock against the existing teeth. Make sure you use something solid that will not break or slip out. Also suggest changing one pocket at a time, so you have some teeth to brace against. What type teeth are you using in the unit? The older square pocket style need to be gauged properly.


----------



## t-stumpin

After 4 hours, I got the teeth off. All off the above tips helped (thanks), but 4 of the cap scews were srtipped and 2 pockets were welded on from the previous owner. For the cap screws that were stripped, I had to weld on some nuts and bolts to the stipped end and torch the threaded pockets hot. We then used a 1/2' socket, breaker and cheater bar to break them loose. What a project. Saved the pockets. I'm now going to grind down the wheel flat and buy some new cap screws from somewhere tomorrow and finish it. I also bought some anti-seal that I'll use. 

The teeth I have are Vermeer. I might have a friend who might be able to shappen the dull ones.


----------



## Dadatwins

Old stump teeth are no fun, sounds like your machine has been around the block a few times. Good idea to grind the wheel smooth, sounds like you had the 2 piece teeth on the unit and probably have some gougeing on the wheel. A company called leonardi manufacturing makes a pocket saver that can help with the 2 piece teeth. It fits in between the pocket and can help. Be careful when sharpening teeth, the tips are made of carbide and the dust is hazardous. Caps screws can be purchased at vermeer dealer or through Baileys, one of the sponsors here. Do some searching on site for different teeth options also, I have used all of them and after much testing find the Rayco one piece teeth to be the best in my opinion. They are also available from Baileys and they will fit on your machine. Good luck.


----------



## ROLLACOSTA

175 lb torque is plenty if you ask me ,i never have and never will torque my teeth to 225-250lb man you need to Arnie schwarzniger to be able to do em up that tight even with a 2'6'' torque wrench


----------



## t-stumpin

Yes, I do have the two piece teeth and there is some gouging on the wheel. I think I found the Rayco one piece teeth your referring to. They do look nice. My pockets are pretty beat up, so that will likely be my next purchase after I get going again.


----------



## Dadatwins

Worn pockets will cause quick wear to caps screws, so think about setting this machine up correctly the first time, to avoid another 4 hour marathon. Should take less than an hour with hand tools to change all the teeth on a 252 under normal circumstances. I would grind off the gouging on the wheel as smooth as I could before reassembly, Gouged wheel will not allow the teeth or pockets to sit right and you have risk of loosing a tooth while grinding. Also be careful about adding mixing new pockets with old pockets, Remember to set the wheel up balanced. New pockets on opposite sides, think like a clock 3pm - 9pm opposite. Good luck.


----------



## intheelements

ROLLACOSTA said:


> 175 lb torque is plenty if you ask me ,i never have and never will torque my teeth to 225-250lb man you need to Arnie schwarzniger to be able to do em up that tight even with a 2'6'' torque wrench




175 lbs may work, but have you had pockets loosen up or snapped a bolt off? So far I have had no problems with pockets or teeth or bolts. May have to put my back into the torque wrench-- but at 250 lbs I have no problems with anything. Just the way I do things I guess


----------



## juststumps

rolla , i don't know about you, but my vemeer sc352 manual says 250 ft/lb torque on the bolts.. i got a 30 inch torque wrench,, 250 is hard on the back,, but it's doable... changed all the teeth the other day.. bolts worn,,,,was out of gas for the torch, drilled the heads off every other bolt, to get them off..you don't need" never sieze"..once you get one bolt in the pocket out,, the other will turn out by hand...


----------



## ROLLACOSTA

I'm doing my bolts up to between 150-175 i haven't had any problems so far,the bolts do seem to wear a lot quickerthan my old 252..how many hours have you got on your machine ????


----------

