# 1988 chevy suburban...won't stay running



## kyle1! (Jun 13, 2012)

Hello, Purchased a former light blue school suburban with 79k and the motor is 350 TBI. Of course the test drive, the 90mile drive home and 3 or 4 trips to town it ran good. Idle did seem to be a bit high though.

Then it rained one night and I could not get it to start in the morning (probably needs cap/rotor). The next day it fired right up and I was almost to town when I went over some rough RR tracks. After those tracks it ran rough and only would go 25-40mph. 

Checked it over and noticed a spark plug wire loose on the cap. Changed the fuel filter for good measure and pushed back down the wire on the cap.

When trying to start the truck now it will not stay running unless you give it some gas. My attempt at going around the block was met with a dying vehicle unless I really feathered the pedal and some backfires out the carb. The EGR valve appears new so I'm thinking fuel pressure reg or maybe bad fuel pump. For me usually fuel pumps just quit working so not sure. 

Also I don't have any brake fluid to the rear drums or a trickle on the driver rear only. So what is the best way to unclog the lines? Compressed air?

Thanks for any help. Brian


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## Boomhower (Jun 13, 2012)

kyle1! said:


> Hello, Purchased a former light blue school suburban with 79k and the motor is 350 TBI. Of course the test drive, the 90mile drive home and 3 or 4 trips to town it ran good. Idle did seem to be a bit high though.
> 
> Then it rained one night and I could not get it to start in the morning (probably needs cap/rotor). The next day it fired right up and I was almost to town when I went over some rough RR tracks. After those tracks it ran rough and only would go 25-40mph.
> 
> ...



The tbi fuel pump should be around 15psi. Only way to check is with an adapter on the high side line from either the back of the t.b. or i believe I’ve seen some that go in place of the fuel filter. The backfire sounds like timing. Do a tune up with fresh (AC/Delco) plugs, cap/rotor, n wires...then check timing. Did you break the line loose from the wheel cylinder to see if it had fluid or just crack the bleeder open?


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## kyle1! (Jun 13, 2012)

On the rear drums I just cracked the bleeder...too scared to crack the line due to its age.

The thing probably needs cap/rotor, plugs/wire but it was running so good until the rain came I didn't want to mess with it.

Brian


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## fubar2 (Jun 13, 2012)

If it runs crappy on wet nights I'm betting on plug wires. After dark some night take a spray bottle filled with water, start it and just spray water around over the engine. I bet you are going to see some little blue sparkies.


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## Boomhower (Jun 13, 2012)

Sounds to me like the bleeders are plugged up. Pull them off and use compressed air and a pick to clear them. Bleed the brakes and see if this helps. Depending on how much you want to spend...I personally would replace the wheel cylinders all together and put on a new set of shoes while I was there.


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## kyle1! (Jun 13, 2012)

fubar2 said:


> If it runs crappy on wet nights I'm betting on plug wires. After dark some night take a spray bottle filled with water, start it and just spray water around over the engine. I bet you are going to see some little blue sparkies.



I have never driven the vehicle in the rain. It rained one night and the vehicle wouldn't start the next but after it sat for a couple of days it fired up. It has been very dry and the corn leaves are curling up. Me no likey blue sparkies. Thanks

I'll try throwing some air into the bleeders first then move on to cracking lines and replacing wheel cylinders if need be. Probably just replace the lines as well for cheap insurance. Brian


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## outdoorlivin247 (Jun 13, 2012)

Quit trying to sell yourself on the cap and rotor and go buy new ones...I am banking it has a cheap replacement with aluminum contacts...Sounds spot on for everyone I replaced in the 8 years I managed our local NAPA...IIRC the NAPA Echlin numbers you need are RR249/RR250, they will have COPPER contacts...

Good luck with the new ride...


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## kyle1! (Nov 30, 2012)

*update*

Replaced cap/rotor/plugs/wires/fuel filter and it was still running like crap. Took the vehicle to my mechanic and only 5psi from the fuel pump so that was replaced. It is running good now and I'm on to the next problem. 

I don't have any turn signals but have hazard flashers and an internet search says I need to replace some electrical piece in the steering column. Never messed with a steering column before so how hard of a job is it? Thanks

Brian


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## Walt41 (Nov 30, 2012)

kyle1! said:


> Replaced cap/rotor/plugs/wires/fuel filter and it was still running like crap. Took the vehicle to my mechanic and only 5psi from the fuel pump so that was replaced. It is running good now and I'm on to the next problem.
> 
> I don't have any turn signals but have hazard flashers and an internet search says I need to replace some electrical piece in the steering column. Never messed with a steering column before so how hard of a job is it? Thanks
> 
> Brian



It is a 4 inch round plastic piece that the turn signal arm connects to. Not that big of a deal but you will have to pull the steering wheel to get it out and feed the wires inside the column to the plug under the dash, disconnect the battery and mark where the wheel is at now with a sharpie so it is not crooked when you reassemble, when I do them I like to lay the parts out on my box in the order they came off, watch out for the little retaining ring that fits in the groove shaft, they like to fly off to places unknown.


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## Boomhower (Dec 11, 2012)

kyle1! said:


> Replaced cap/rotor/plugs/wires/fuel filter and it was still running like crap. Took the vehicle to my mechanic and only 5psi from the fuel pump so that was replaced. It is running good now and I'm on to the next problem.
> 
> I don't have any turn signals but have hazard flashers and an internet search says I need to replace some electrical piece in the steering column. Never messed with a steering column before so how hard of a job is it? Thanks
> 
> Brian



Been away for awhile...glad to see you got it running on all 8. Let us know how the multi function switch replacement goes.


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## chowdozer (Dec 13, 2012)

kyle1! said:


> Replaced cap/rotor/plugs/wires/fuel filter and it was still running like crap. Took the vehicle to my mechanic and only 5psi from the fuel pump so that was replaced. It is running good now and I'm on to the next problem.
> 
> I don't have any turn signals but have hazard flashers and an internet search says I need to replace some electrical piece in the steering column. Never messed with a steering column before so how hard of a job is it? Thanks
> 
> Brian



You need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate compressor.
Pull the horn button
pull the steering wheel nut
pull the steering wheel
use the lock plate compressor and pull the snap ring on the steering shaft
the turn signal switch should be there with a couple screws holding it in
unplug the harness down on the column
you need to use an o ring pick to pull the wires out of the connector take a pic of the connector and where the wires go <- very important!
fish the wires up the column and pull the switch
lather rinse and repeat, oh wait


don't try to do it without a lock plate compressor, you will just cause aggravation
I just picked one off the web SWLPC-1 Lock Plate Compressor by HPC

you can make your own. A 1/4" x 1" piece of flatbar with a hole in the middle. Bend it in a U shape. Make it short enough you can use the steering wheel nut. You need to push down on the lock plate while pulling up on the steering shaft.

If your tilt wheel is loose or you need a new ignition lock, now is the time

I could do it in an hour and a couple of beers but I have had many apart
I need to tear into mine soon, I'll take pics if you want

BTW, I can't remember if the hazards and turn signals are on different flashers. I think they might be. Check that first.


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