# Hardy Japanese Maples, I am so lost.



## VNA (Feb 4, 2012)

My father and uncle bought some Hardy Japanese Mapples (_Acer Palmatum var._ "boodgood") around October or November last year. The trees sat on our front porch to brave the rain, snow, sleet, and freezing that happened through fall and winter. I finally felt terrible for the trees leaves and sagging branches and brought them inside in early December. They have since been in our house, catching sunlight in the afternoon but probably getting no water. The trees are now growing green leaves, without the red coloring. I have never raised plants before, let alone trees, so this seems strange to me since they have been very neglected up until now. They have a terrible mixture of water-holding beads that are supposed to slowly release water into the soil and the soil that came from the nursery, months ago. I want to start caring for these trees so that they can be pretty in the fall and live through next winter. 
So here are my burning questions:

When can I plant these pretty little trees? I read after a very brief search that it would be best to plant them in the fall before the ground freezes. Will they die if I plant them in the spring and consistently care for them afterward?

What kind of fertilizer should I use, or mix in until I do plant them in the ground? What fertilizer/ soil should I use when I do plant them in the ground?
Are the trees too far-gone and these leaves are just a final farewell?


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## trimmmed (Feb 4, 2012)

Plant them in spring time, I'm tempted to tell you to find a cooler place for them than in the house but they might already have been shocked around enough. Don't let them dry out but don't overwater either. Plant as soon as last frost. They would have been fine on the porch. As for the leaves going green, that happens in fact happened to one of mine in the ground for 10 years, not sure why though.


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## trimmmed (Feb 4, 2012)

Oh, and don't fertilize them, just plant them in an amended soil in a well drained spot.


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## Bushmans (Feb 5, 2012)

Generally the leaves turn green from too much sunlight. They like a bit more shade.


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## VNA (Feb 6, 2012)

Thank you so much for all of your help. I'll be sure to plant accordingly. 
When you say in a shadier place, would it need to be nearer to my house to catch less sunlight? Should I put more soil into the pots as they are now?


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## Bushmans (Feb 7, 2012)

VNA said:


> Thank you so much for all of your help. I'll be sure to plant accordingly.
> When you say in a shadier place, would it need to be nearer to my house to catch less sunlight? Should I put more soil into the pots as they are now?



Jap Maples will do best on the North or East side of the house. Morning sun but afternoon shade. They do not like a lot of wind exposure either it will dry the tips of the leaves giving it a "dying" appearance. If you can post a picture of the pots that they are in right now I can help you out. Without looking at the trunk or collar of the tree I have no idea how to assess the situation. Sorry it took so long to get back to you.:smile2:


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## VNA (Feb 9, 2012)

These are my two little Japanese hardy maples. I just moved them into my room where these pictures were taken. Beforehand I noticed a copious amount of water in the catcher bowls that the pots are in. Could they possibly have root rot? Is there such a thing?
I can supply more images if these aren't clear, or of what you need to see the condition of these. The white beads are the water-releasing stuff that I mentioned earlier in the thread. This is also another concern of mine, since they cannot possibly have any nutrients in that soil.


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## noodle (Mar 3, 2012)

My advice would be to google Bloodgood maple and you will see you should plant in full sun to part shade. In my experience the more sun the better. That is why your leaves changed to green. It needs sun. It will survive in indirect sunlight but the result will be green leaves and slower growth. I would also plant when night time temps are 50-60s as to not shock it and use 3-4-3 starter ferilizer when planting. If you see it is rootbound when you take it out of the pot cut the roots carefully and fan out as you plant. Dig the hole 3 times larger than what you need. Amend the soil with compost. Most importantly dont plant too deep. The surface roots need to breath. Existing soil of root system should be level or slightly elevated when planting. Fertilize with holly-tone this fall and each spring and fall going foward. Watering is key especially the first few years. Slow deep waterings and alow the soil to dry before its next watering. Good Luck


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## treemandan (Mar 4, 2012)

Its common for the young leaves to be green then change to red. They started leafing out allready because of the warmth of being inside - they were triggered by the false climate. They look a little young to be planted - the summer heat will scorched them. They need bigger pots.


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