# Fiskars X27 What a Piece of Plastic



## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)




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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

Overclock said:


>



If he keeps swinging that 30 lb one he is going to have some back troubles one day.


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## KenJax Tree (Dec 28, 2014)

Why not just noodle those?


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## dancan (Dec 28, 2014)

I've ordered a truckload of wood that size , bring that 30 pounder over , beer and pizza on me LOL


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## Ironworker (Dec 28, 2014)

I have a fiskars and it does two things really well, one is it gets stuck and two is it does nothing.


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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> Why not just noodle those?


Testing the two.


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

My cousin has an X27 and I was pretty impressed considering it truly feels like a toy. What a destructive toy though. lol 

I'm tuned in for a #8 Council maul but that Fiskars was smooth if you are a stove guy.

This poor kid in the video needs some advice. His homemade wedge is impressive though.


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

I learned a bit about axe theory in Bailey's vid.


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## Jeremy102579 (Dec 28, 2014)

Id rather take alittle longer with my "light" x27 than to swing that "heavy" maul any day.........


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## pantelis (Dec 28, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> Why not just noodle those?


Because he is stupid


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## Chris-PA (Dec 28, 2014)

The definition of work harder, not smarter. Neither is appropriate for that job, but at least one of those tools is useful for some things. The other is worthless for everything. All he was doing was picking the anvil up and dropping it.

I've quartered a lot of rounds that size, many with my old Chopper1 (which is probably 5-6lbs). If that doesn't work a couple of wedges would pop it with far less time and effort (and injury) than what he was doing. And if there's a knot then it would noodle right up.


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

Maybe the kid can learn from this nut.



-edit No disrespect meant to the Clark family. Tom died in 2008. What an animal. R.I.P.


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)




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## Whitespider (Dec 28, 2014)

I've had my Fiskars for... what... must be three years now.
I use it... for the right application.
If something happened to it, I wouldn't replace it.
*


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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

pantelis said:


> Because he is stupid


But he has good wind!


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## artbaldoni (Dec 28, 2014)

Neither of those tools is correct for that job.


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## theswampthing (Dec 28, 2014)

I thought that video was a bit strange, myself.


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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

artbaldoni said:


> Neither of those tools is correct for that job.


Well if he was smart he would have used the Fiskers as a wedge and hit it with the 30 lb er. That would have got it started in about 5 hits then the big maul would have finished it in about 5 more.


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## pantelis (Dec 28, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> But he has good wind!


You know my friend some peoples are so stupid even the God have leave them


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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

pantelis said:


> You know my friend some peoples are so stupid even the God have leave them


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## cus_deluxe (Dec 28, 2014)

i have an x25, sorry not 6'2" and awesome, but if used for appropriate sized rounds it is a splitting machine!! this guy is a clown, as shown by silly giant wood hammer thing.


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## flotek (Dec 28, 2014)

I found the fiskars to be only marginally better than a 15$ tractor supply axe . A hydraulic splitter is much easier and won't wear you out . An x27 is still going to take repeated swings ( if it doesn't stick ) you will be hackin and wackin just like anything else on the market. Is it easier to swing than dad's old maul ? .. Sure but so is a golf club ,it doesn't mean it works any better


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## svk (Dec 28, 2014)

Watched the whole thing, just to see if something interesting happened. 

Splitting whole rounds that size with any splitting axe is like trying to sink a battleship with a machine gun. 

That homemade maul was interesting to watch anyhow.


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## UnforsakenGhost (Dec 28, 2014)

flotek said:


> I found the fiskars to be only marginally better than a 15$ tractor supply axe . A hydraulic splitter is much easier and won't wear you out . An x27 is still going to take repeated swings ( if it doesn't stick ) you will be hackin and wackin just like anything else on the market. Is it easier to swing than dad's old maul ? .. Sure but so is a golf club ,it doesn't mean it works any better


I've found that it flies throught the first time, more often than any other of my splitting mauls, if it doesn't, then it usually pops it pretty good so my 6lb maul finishes it off, and if you have a tire around it so it keeps it all together, you can split a whole round faster than hydro splits one


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## svk (Dec 28, 2014)

Chris-PA said:


> The definition of work harder, not smarter. Neither is appropriate for that job, but at least one of those tools is useful for some things. The other is worthless for everything. All he was doing was picking the anvil up and dropping it.
> 
> I've quartered a lot of rounds that size, many with my old Chopper1 (which is probably 5-6lbs). If that doesn't work a couple of wedges would pop it with far less time and effort (and injury) than what he was doing. And it there's a knot then it would noodle right up.


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## theswampthing (Dec 28, 2014)

All tools, including hydros, have their own place. That said, even though me old lady has accused me of being a Neanderthal more than once, even I wouldn't try to split those rounds like that.


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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

theswampthing said:


> All tools, including hydros, have their own place. That said, even though me old lady has accused me of being a Neanderthal more than once, even I wouldn't try to split those rounds like that.


Even with an audience and video being made?


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## El Quachito (Dec 28, 2014)

This thread


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## theswampthing (Dec 28, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> Even with an audience and video being made?


Especially with an audience. Last thing I need is to pinch a nerve in my back swinging that medieval battle axe and have 10,000 people on the internet see me rolling around in the leaves like a trout on the riverbank.


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## pantelis (Dec 28, 2014)

El Quachito said:


> This thread


why you laughing mister ? the kid here show to us the corect tool for the job


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

When I did a one handed wheelie on my kx500 with a beer in the clutch hand, I was called a neanderthal. Walked like one for about the next three weeks, too.



zogger said:


> Never heard of it. If it is that dense and heavy, once dried it should be some wonderful stuff though.



Thinkin' this one was aimed more at the Mountain Mahogany thread, Homie.


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## zogger (Dec 28, 2014)

Overclock said:


> When I did a one handed wheelie on my kx500 with a beer in the clutch hand, I was called a neanderthal. Walked like one for about the next three weeks, too.
> 
> 
> 
> Thinkin' this one was aimed more at the Mountain Mahogany thread, Homie.



BWAHAHAHA, ya, I deleted it here. Wondered where it went to..haha

Anyway, I couldn't watch this whole vid..I mean...that's just painful it isn't even that funny. I hope he got them busted up before his heartrate monitor flatlined...

That huge bludgeon he has, that's where you need a sideways roundhouse swing. With an edge, I bet it works, but....two monster mauls heavy, I'll pass.

About the worst fiskaring I have seen...for those whatever, hundreds of strikes, he could have had those big rounds smacked into shape.


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## Red97 (Dec 28, 2014)

I guess I missed it what was the point? 5000 strikes with the fiskars all over the round? 15 strikes with a 30lb anvil? Who in their right mind would throw a quarter round like that into a stove.

I deal with rounds like that with my fiskars, If they don't split normal, I just turn them into shingles,strike around the outside.

Very creative idea to get the heart rate up, but I would rather not.


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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

Red97 said:


> I guess I missed it what was the point? 5000 strikes with the fiskars all over the round? 15 strikes with a 30lb anvil? Who in their right mind would throw a quarter round like that into a stove.
> 
> I deal with rounds like that with my fiskars, If they don't split normal, I just turn them into shingles,strike around the outside.
> 
> Very creative idea to get the heart rate up, but I would rather not.


The dude had good wind and he will have a very bad back soon. The point i got out of it was the 30 lb split the big round better then the fisker.


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

Red97 said:


> Who in their right mind would throw a quarter round like that into a stove.



No problem with it for the OWB boys of the group. Including me. You don't want them too small for long burn times.

The kid is in his right mind just experience hasn't reared her ugly head on him yet.




dancan said:


> I've ordered a truckload of wood that size , bring that 30 pounder over , beer and pizza on me LOL




Beer and pizza _in_ me. lol

While the kid split one round, I could hammer six Rolling Rocks and a 16" thin crust with extra sauce. Extra sauce yes make that eight Rolling Rock............


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## Red97 (Dec 28, 2014)

The biggest issue I have with fiskar splitter is digging it out of the dirt after each swing

I would be more worried about wrist issues using that 30 lb thing.


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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

Red97 said:


> The biggest issue I have with fiskar splitter is digging it out of the dirt after each swing
> 
> I would be more worried about wrist issues using that 30 lb thing.


Really, what about lower back?


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## Red97 (Dec 28, 2014)

Overclock said:


> No problem with it for the OWB boys of the group. Including me. You don't want them too small for long burn times.
> 
> The kid is in his right mind just experience hasn't reared her ugly head on him yet.


 
I understand the long burn time for big pieces in OWB group I have one. But man those have to be close to 100lb quarters I don't like tossing those in at night standing on snow and ice. 

But I only have a 20x20 door so that makes the difference.


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## Red97 (Dec 28, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> Really, what about lower back?


 
Ok, lower back too.  Just can imagine the vibe's that thing produces when it dosent split. Almost like running an old homelite.


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## lone wolf (Dec 28, 2014)

Red97 said:


> Ok, lower back too.  Just can imagine the vibe's that thing produces when it dosent split. Almost like running an old homelite.


I used to be like that, now much wiser. Everyone told me that's how you wreck your back I said naw!


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

zogger said:


> About the worst fiskaring I have seen.......



haha fiskaring. Shoot.


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

If you designed a maul head the way the kid did it with the stacked and welded plates, but left some inside ones with hollowed out middles to fill with shot deadblow style, how well would it work?


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## Philbert (Dec 28, 2014)

Silly video. It's like someone saying, "_See, my Chevy Volt won't pull my 5th wheel trailer! What a piece of ____!_" No tool does everything. I would have split that first into sections with a sledge and steel wedges. But I will bet that there are guys who could still do better with their Fiskars by working around the edges, instead of looking like they are trying out for the next '_Thor_' movie.



Ironworker said:


> I have a fiskars and it does two things really well, one is it gets stuck and two is it does nothing.



Hey, post it up on CraigsList and get some of your money back!

Philbert


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## theswampthing (Dec 28, 2014)

Overclock said:


> If you designed a maul head the way the kid did it with the stacked and welded plates, but left some inside ones with hollowed out middles to fill with shot deadblow style, how well would it work?


I imagine much worse than a maul head of the same weight but of more slender design. Kind of like having a .50 caliber slug that was hollow. Fiskars is like 5.56 NATO. MEGA maul is like a 45/70.
I'm probably just talking out my arse, though. 

I missed the part where you had the hollow void filled with shot. I guess like a dead blow hammer? Hmmm.


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

I think I'll try it and find out. Top and bottom plates may be the only solid ones joined by a pipe for the handle to run through. Then a cavity inside. Shot may disintegrate from the abuse of repeated impact who knows?? swamp, how is it like a slug? I don't copy ya yet.

OK saw the edit haha. Now we're on the same page.


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## theswampthing (Dec 28, 2014)

Just real heavy, large diameter and relies on its weight, where as a 5.56 is very light and small caliber bullet and relies on its speed.

In my mind, that's how I compare light sharp axes with heavy blunt mauls. Like I said, I could be completely off here.


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## Red97 (Dec 28, 2014)

I don't believe the shot idea would work well, it would dissipate the impact more than it would help push it through.

In my opinion the best compromise would be copying the fiskars design but making it longer to add the weight you desire, but anything over 12 lb is overkill on your body. If you study the fiskar splitter you will notice all of the force is concentrated in 1 corner of the head.

It is very hard to design a manpower splitter that does everything well, too narrow it gets stuck easy, too wide it bounces off.

I do know this design is not the answer.




Standard tsc maul head with 1" solid handle 32" long, It was made by my dad because I broke too many wooden handles before we got a hyd splitter.


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

Maybe the shot needs to go inside the handle. Time for some research and development. Where is @Chris-PA when a guy actually needs him????

In the Tom Clark video the guy who invented his own axe/maul, he said he hit the round with a 30 deg turn in the head. Maybe a deadblow style maul's innards can be chambered so the shot flows to one side and is balanced when it begins to twist?? Dunno. Brainstorming out loud here.


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## theswampthing (Dec 28, 2014)

I think @Red97 has the right idea as far as the shot. Dead blow hammers are made to strike stuff, but not destroy it.


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## Jetterbug (Dec 28, 2014)

My heart rate definitely went up in the beginning of this video. But then soon went back down


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## Red97 (Dec 28, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Maybe the shot needs to go inside the handle. Time for some research and development. Where is @Chris-PA when a guy actually needs him????


 
The one I posted is weight all in the handle, It is no good. If I were to build a new maul it would be a 8lb fiskars splitter.

In my opinion the work is done by the first point of the splitter making contact, then the rest of the wedge following through.

But keep in mind some wood just doesn't want to be split


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

theswampthing said:


> I think @Red97 has the right idea as far as the shot. Dead blow hammers are made to strike stuff, but not destroy it.


It's the difference between what we call in Karate, "Fluid Shock Wave," and "Instant Shock Wave." If you kick something and leave your foot planted, you transfer more energy because you contact the target longer. If you employ instant shock, you hit it and get the striking tool (foot) off the target rapidly. Jab vs Haymaker. Just an analysis of energy transfer, though and the object here is to strike through. Time for some R&D at any rate. I like the hand tools better than hydraulics so I can hear the birds chirp that's for sure.



Red97 said:


> The one I posted is weight all in the handle, It is no good. If I were to build a new maul it would be a 8lb fiskars splitter.
> 
> In my opinion the work is done by the first point of the splitter making contact, then the rest of the wedge following through.
> 
> But keep in mind some wood just doesn't want to be split



Right, I knew what the trouble was when you said that handle was solid and heavy. What happens if the weight can shift through the 3' handle and/or in the maul head??


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## Red97 (Dec 28, 2014)

Overclock said:


> It's the difference between what we call in Karate, "Fluid Shock Wave," and "Instant Shock Wave." If you kick something and leave your foot planted, you transfer more energy because you contact the target longer. If you employ instant shock, you hit it and get the striking tool (foot) off the target rapidly. Just an analysis of energy tranfer, though and the object here is to strike through. Time for some R&D at any rate. I like the hand tools better than hydraulics so I can hear the birds chirp that's for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Right, I knew what the trouble was when you said that handle was solid and heavy. What happens if the weight can shift through the 3' handle and/or in the maul head??


 
I do not think you can create enough centrifical force to get the shot to the working end of the handle without doing some kind of full roundhouse swing.


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## zogger (Dec 28, 2014)

One idea I had but haven't tried yet, BUT, I noticed the leveraxe had it. Sharpen it so it splits to the side on purpose, flat on one side, the angle for the edge on the other. Figure out which way you like to go around a round, right turns or left turns, ha! then sharpen accordingly, angle ground side to the outside.

That forest service axe vid that was posted up the other day, they had that on those broadaxes for making beams. I believe I saw that anyway.


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## Philbert (Dec 28, 2014)

zogger said:


> That forest service axe vid that was posted up the other day, they had that on those broadaxes for making beams.


Those were offset for clearance, like a gooseneck chisel, not to twist (might twist if swung like a splitting maul).

Philbert


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## Overclock (Dec 28, 2014)

theswampthing said:


> Dead blow hammers are made to strike stuff, but not destroy it.



That's why at least a deadblow maul head will be perfect for driving steel wedges with the butt end of the head.


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## zogger (Dec 28, 2014)

Philbert said:


> Those were offset for clearance, like a gooseneck chisel, not to twist (might twist if swung like a splitting maul).
> 
> Philbert



I am thinking it can't help but want to twist to the side with that sort of angle grind.


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

*Breaking News Alert: freshp takes Fiskars hit to the mouth.*

freshp: "And so I learned a lot when I got hit in the mouth."


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

Dead Blow axe:

http://www.google.com/patents/US6640447


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## woodchuck357 (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Dead Blow axe:
> 
> http://www.google.com/patents/US6640447


Click the "View PDF" button to see drawings larger.


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## woodchuck357 (Dec 29, 2014)

I started splitting very young, using an old right hand broad hatchet re-hafted with a longer straight handle. I think the one side bevel may have helped develop the twist I use with all splitting tools.
Many years ago I cut away part of one side of the hammer end of a splitting maul, welded the cut-off to the other side, then ground the bevel on the side of the splitting end thin, on one side, leaving a ledge. I was trying to make the flip automatic for anyone, In effect making a heavy VP leveraxe.
That is what "buster" was about, a rafting pattern ax with extra metal on the poll to give the flip more power.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311229290562?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
This could become a fairly good copy of buster.


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## woodchuck357 (Dec 29, 2014)

I have an x27 and the handle viberates more than any ax or maul I have ever used.
Has any one tried filling it with expanding foam to reduce the vibes?


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## zogger (Dec 29, 2014)

woodchuck357 said:


> I have an x27 and the handle viberates more than any ax or maul I have ever used.
> Has any one tried filling it with expanding foam to reduce the vibes?



That's funny, my original fiskars has little bad vibes to it.

maybe..some sort of liquid rubber chemical instead of foam?


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## Philbert (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Dead Blow axe:


Depleted uranium. Just saying. Works in the dark too.

Philbert


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## Trx250r180 (Dec 29, 2014)

I prefer my carbon fiber handled x-29 with the titanium head


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## Ambull01 (Dec 29, 2014)

That may be the gayest video I've ever seen. Who the hell wears a heart rate monitor when you're splitting? If my heart is racing, I'm working too hard with the Fiskars. Time to set it down and noodle the piece. 



Philbert said:


> Silly video. It's like someone saying, "_See, my Chevy Volt won't pull my 5th wheel trailer! What a piece of ____!_" No tool does everything. I would have split that first into sections with a sledge and steel wedges. But I will bet that there are guys who could still do better with their Fiskars by working around the edges, instead of looking like they are trying out for the next '_Thor_' movie.
> 
> 
> Hey, post it up on CraigsList and get some of your money back!
> ...



lol. It does look like Thor's hammer doesn't it. That may be just what he was going for with his long hair. I just scrounged some pieces like that yesterday. Wet white oak. Whacked it with the Fiskars four times, all strikes bounced off. Turned the rounds sideways and noodled them into smaller chunks to load into my van. Piece of cake. 



woodchuck357 said:


> I have an x27 and the handle viberates more than any ax or maul I have ever used.
> Has any one tried filling it with expanding foam to reduce the vibes?



Only time the X27's vibrations become bothersome is when I do a @benp and try to kill the handle. Other than that I love this silly looking "axe" thing.


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> That may be the gayest video I've ever seen....... Turned the rounds sideways and noodled them into smaller chunks to load into my van. Piece of cake.




Hauling firewood in a _van_? lol


What are you some kind of hippy?


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## Chris-PA (Dec 29, 2014)

Unless your axe/maul is bouncing on impact there is no point to a dead blow. If it is bouncing your tool or technique is wrong.


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## Ambull01 (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Hauling firewood in a _van_? lol
> 
> 
> What are you some kind of hippy?



Choke yourself. 

I have five kids, a dog, and a wife. Can't fit them all in my Caddy. Have three vehicles right now. Thinking about selling the Caddy and buying a "manly" truck which I assume you drive. Until then, going to use the van that I paid $500 for and has no mechanical issues (bought it from wife's grandfather). My commute is a bit far though (even though I'll be working from home two days and work four day weeks) for a big truck. Caddy gets surprisingly decent mileage. 

Visit the Scrounging Firewood thread. Dude name Dancan rocks a van for firewood too.


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## benp (Dec 29, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> Choke yourself.
> 
> I have five kids, a dog, and a wife. Can't fit them all in my Caddy. Have three vehicles right now. Thinking about selling the Caddy and buying a "manly" truck which I assume you drive. Until then, going to use the van that I paid $500 for and has no mechanical issues (bought it from wife's grandfather). My commute is a bit far though (even though I'll be working from home two days and work four day weeks) for a big truck. Caddy gets surprisingly decent mileage.
> 
> *Visit the Scrounging Firewood thread. Dude name Dancan rocks a van for firewood too.*




I was going to say the same thing.


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

Chris-PA said:


> Unless your axe/maul is bouncing on impact there is no point to a dead blow. If it is bouncing your tool or technique is wrong.



Thanks. I'm going to get a second opinion from @CTYank.


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## svk (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Thanks. I'm going to get a second opinion from @CTYank.


LMFAO 

Ok, who really are you? Or have you just been lurking here that long to pick up on all of the little side dramas that happen in here?


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## Trx250r180 (Dec 29, 2014)

If titanium works for a framing hammer ,why would it not make a great lightweight axe head ? I have 2 of these ,and my wrists love me for getting them .


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## Chris-PA (Dec 29, 2014)

svk said:


> LMFAO
> 
> Ok, who really are you? Or have you just been lurking here that long to pick up on all of the little side dramas that happen in here?


Brush Ape


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

svk said:


> LMFAO
> 
> Ok, who really are you?




Why I'm Ted DiBiase, Mayor of New York City.


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## svk (Dec 29, 2014)

Chris-PA said:


> Brush Ape


That was my first thought.


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

Trx250r180 said:


> If titanium works for a framing hammer ,why would it not make a great lightweight axe head ? I have 2 of these ,and my wrists love me for getting them .




Lol, Brian, I have the Dalluge style. I'm not fully sold on it but it has its moments. The hatchet handle is the proper one for a California framer. It's the 16oz Ti = 24oz Steel translation that is a rough one for the old-schooler. I'm a firm believer in club speed though. And the magnet for fixing a 16d to start at arms length is something we used to have to modify our hammers for back in the day.


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

svk said:


> That was my first thought.



Always go with your gut. I don't know who _he_ is, but he must be a scorcher.

Anyway the site will dry up and die without fresh content.


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## Idahonative (Dec 29, 2014)

I love the Fiskars so much I own 7 of them. One x27 at the wood pile, one x11 for around the camp, and 5 new ones hanging in the shed. Why so many? Well it's not because they break like wood handled axes do. It is because they make good gifts and because my money is worthless sitting in the bank making .25% interest. I bought them last summer on Amazon for $48 each, no tax and free shipping. I see now they are already up to $54.99 (nearly 15% increase) which is a gain that could never be achieved in the current system of screwing hard working people out of their money.

The bottom line on the Fiskars is this: Buy it on Amazon and pay no tax or shipping. Try it and if you don't like it, send it back. Doesn't cost you a penny out of your pocket to try it. There will always be haters out there on everything including our Blaze King (aka ELITIST STOVE...hard to believe huh). The x27 is an awesome piece of equipment if you use it as it was intended. Is it all you need? I don't think so but it does 90% of my splitting and does it without wearing me out. It puts a smile on my face every time I use it. And did I mention they are tough as nails?


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## Marshy (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Always go with your gut. I don't know who _he_ is, but he must be a scorcher.
> 
> Anyway the site will dry up and die without fresh content.


 
He's a scorcher all right. Did dumb things similar to swinging that 30lb maul over and over.


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## Trx250r180 (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Lol, Brian, I have the Dalluge style. I'm not fully sold on it but it has its moments. The hatchet handle is the proper one for a California framer. It's the 16oz Ti = 24oz Steel translation that is a rough one for the old-schooler. I'm a firm believer in club speed though. And the magnet for fixing a 16d to start at arms length is something we used to have to modify our hammers for back in the day.


Yes i have the hatchet handle ,i picked up the rubber gripped one also ,has replaceable waffle head ,nice feature as long as it does not come loose ,the side nail puller is handy also ,there is something about the wood axe handled one i still like though ,nice feel to it like it belongs in your hand almost .
Rubber gripped has semi axe handle to it ,but not the same .


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

Marshy said:


> He's a scorcher all right. Did dumb things similar to swinging that 30lb maul over and over.




I see you are from Mexico. Have a 'like' and a citizenship. Welcome to America.


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## Philbert (Dec 29, 2014)

Trx250r180 said:


> If titanium works for a framing hammer ,why would it not make a great lightweight axe head ? I have 2 of these ,and my wrists love me for getting them .



Actually, they also make a line of hammers with composite handles, which would be more analogous to the Fiskars axes and mauls.

http://www.stiletto.com/p-76-16-oz-titanium-smooth-face-18-hybrid-fiberglass-handle.aspx

Philbert


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## Trx250r180 (Dec 29, 2014)

The cro-bars are not so bad either ........


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## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

"Best Refrigerated."

lol


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## Marshy (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> I see you are from Mexico. Have a 'like' and a citizenship. Welcome to America.


 
LOL One of the many problem in todays America is literacy. Im in NY.  Are there trees in Mexico?


----------



## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

Marshy said:


> LOL One of the many problem in todays America is literacy. Im in NY.  Are there trees in Mexico?




Me too Mayor Ted DiBiase.

(BTW, you need a couple apostrophe here and there, Mr. Literacy from Mexico.)


----------



## svk (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Always go with your gut. I don't know who _he_ is, but he must be a scorcher.
> 
> Anyway the site will dry up and die without fresh content.


It was my first thought but you havent caused the trouble he normally does immediately. But you do have a lot of knowledge of the personalities around here.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

Thanks Boss. Who caused trouble?


----------



## turnkey4099 (Dec 29, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> The dude had good wind and he will have a very bad back soon.
> The point i got out of it was the 30 lb split the big round better then the fisker.



And a wedge/sledge would have done it easier.

Harry K


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 29, 2014)

turnkey4099 said:


> And a wedge/sledge would have done it easier.
> 
> Harry K


True. Was the purpose to see how the Fiskers did against the 30 lb maul though? That kid was beating the **** out of himself.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 29, 2014)

Could have sworn I just saw a guy splitting a round with dynamite. Anyone else see it or am I losing my mind?


----------



## svk (Dec 29, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> Could have sworn I just saw a guy splitting a round with dynamite. Anyone else see it or am I losing my mind?


there was a video of a guy using a wedge loaded with gunpowder on here not too long ago too.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 29, 2014)

svk said:


> there was a video of a guy using a wedge loaded with gunpowder on here not too long ago too.



Yep that's the one. Good, someone else saw it lol.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 29, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> Could have sworn I just saw a guy splitting a round with dynamite. Anyone else see it or am I losing my mind?


Looked like that yup.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 29, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> True. Was the purpose to see how the Fiskers did against the 30 lb maul though? That kid was beating the **** out of himself.



I cringed every time he hoisted that thing up. Looked extremely awkward. I would have probably pulled something doing that.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 29, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> I cringed every time he hoisted that thing up. Looked extremely awkward. I would have probably pulled something doing that.


 I already have stuff pulled! that thing will injure you.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

The kid is probably trying to land a chick. Times are different today. If somebody will teach him to do it right before he gets seriously injured maybe he can get one like this:



Yummy.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 29, 2014)

She's got a better Tom Clark form--eh?

Well she's got a good form period.

Yeah there's quality wholesome youtube out there. You just have to look for it.


lol I been splitting wood longer than this chick has been alive but I won't split logs on a boulder and *not barefoot*!!!!!


----------



## svk (Dec 29, 2014)

Also notice splitting directly on rocks. And the axe doesn't even come close to hitting the rock.


----------



## Johnny Yooper (Dec 29, 2014)

yep, never hits the rocks with the axe; noticed right away she has the wrist snap down to a tee. My dad taught me that back around '75, still using the same maul. Depending on the species and how straight or twisty or knotty the wood is determines whether I use that technique. If only I had a nickel for every piece of wood split with that maul.............I could add to my saw collection


----------



## Red97 (Dec 29, 2014)

Overclock said:


> The kid is probably trying to land a chick. Times are different today. If somebody will teach him to do it right before he gets seriously injured maybe he can get one like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Yummy.




I would be on axe number 5 half way through the vid. She has some skills, that is for sure.


----------



## robespierre (Dec 29, 2014)

This guy doesn't use the fiskars correctly.he needs to start at the edge and cut it up like an onion.his swing is feeble with no follow through..I split over 25 cords this summer with the fiskars and this is embarrassing.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

You aren't going to split those rounds like an onion with a Fiskars. haha. Quartering with the saw or a hydraulic splitter is the correct way.

I won't be trading in the #8 Council maul for a Fiskars toy or a hydraulic splitter FWIW.


----------



## Marshy (Dec 30, 2014)

robespierre said:


> This guy doesn't use the fiskars correctly.he needs to start at the edge and cut it up like an onion.his swing is feeble with no follow through..I split over 25 cords this summer with the fiskars and this is embarrassing.


 I agree, his technique is poor. On a round that large, 1. I would never try splitting right down the middle, 2. Always work on the side of the round you are standing on, 3. Choose an appropriate tool, 4. Put the round on a firm flat ground. A fiskar is not an appropriate tool for this large of a round, sledge and wedge is. Once the piece is halfed then I'd give the fiskars another try to see if I could break it up more but wouldnt waste half the time he did with the two axes before I noodled the round partially or fully.


----------



## zogger (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> You aren't going to split those rounds like an onion with a Fiskars. haha. Quartering with the saw or a hydraulic splitter is the correct way.



Straight grain? Sure ya can, just work around from the outside. First pieces make thin, slab the bark off. Then some whacks aiming in, but hitting the outside edge, follow the radial cracks or where cracks could be. Now go back to busting off from the outside, going around the round, hit between your previous radial hits, that piece busts off, you have a usable split. Lather rinse repeat.

Diameter doesn't matter once it is real big, big being something you can't hit in the middle and bust it easy, but technique does matter.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Hey what kind of wood was it?


----------



## Chris-PA (Dec 30, 2014)

Johnny Yooper said:


> yep, never hits the rocks with the axe; noticed right away she has the wrist snap down to a tee.


Her technique is good - better than I am with the twist (my aim is poor when I do that, although I have been practising). 

On the other hand, whatever she is splitting is small and just about falls apart with a tap. Much of what I split requires a heck of a lot more force just to get the tool to penetrate enough to allow the edge to dig in on one side and allow a twist to be effective - she is barely swinging it, carrying no speed and the handle is short.


----------



## zogger (Dec 30, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> Hey what kind of wood was it?



I'd have to look at it again, seems it was oak, though?

Big ones. I had an oak I took down here before I was on this site. The rounds, once they got big, were large enough I could only haul three in the tractor tote box, then as I worked towards the butt end, I could only haul two. When they got that big, there was no even tipping them back up to noodle or roll and flop into the box, had to be split where they lay. I used that technique to bust them up. Used the dang dinky utility axe to do it.

Learned that years ago working up hugemongous dead elm that I bucked with a big crosscut. Yes, it was a PITA but got it done.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

zogger said:


> Straight grain? Sure ya can, .......


 
lol


I didn't say, "can't."




Overclock said:


> You aren't going to...


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

Chris-PA said:


> Her technique is good - better than I am with the twist (my aim is poor when I do that, although I have been practising).
> 
> On the other hand, whatever she is splitting is small and just about falls apart with a tap. Much of what I split requires a heck of a lot more force just to get the tool to penetrate enough to allow the edge to dig in on one side and allow a twist to be effective - she is barely swinging it, carrying no speed and the handle is short.


 

Please don't denigrate the little ladies over here. ROFL. 

She's getting some good club head speed. Control is the major factor in the first place.


----------



## Marshy (Dec 30, 2014)

Lever axe ain't got nut'in on that girl.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

And now the classic, "Locust Speed Test."


----------



## Idahonative (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> And now the classic, "Locust Speed Test."




Hahaha. That's some funny stuff right there. The biggest difference between the Fiskars and that 30 lb. maul is I can swing the Fiskars ALL day long. I could swing that maul for maybe 5 minutes (on a good day).


----------



## Trx250r180 (Dec 30, 2014)

I  Firewood


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

My opinion is neither one is good for that wood right there he needs an 8 LB maul!


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

Wood splitting with your host, unclemoustache's cousin chronic metrosexual, "Art Manly," and his rusty mushroomed out Wal-Maul.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

zogger said:


> Straight grain? Sure ya can, just work around from the outside. First pieces make thin, slab the bark off. Then some whacks aiming in, but hitting the outside edge, follow the radial cracks or where cracks could be. Now go back to busting off from the outside, going around the round, hit between your previous radial hits, that piece busts off, you have a usable split. Lather rinse repeat.
> 
> Diameter doesn't matter once it is real big, big being something you can't hit in the middle and bust it easy, but technique does matter.



Amen. I've found that is the easiest way to split large rounds with the Fiskars. You are the best at describing/giving instruction so that a 5 year old can understand. Bravo


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

Trx250r180 said:


> I  Firewood



And it loves you pumpkin.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Wood splitting with your host, unclemoustache's cousin chronic metrosexual, "Art Manly," and his rusty mushroomed out Wal-Maul.



I would put money on the Thor's hammer kid over this guy.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> And now the classic, "Locust Speed Test."




I predict a hit to his shin in the future.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> I would put money on the Thor's hammer kid over this guy.



Thor does her without his hair getting un-bunned. Freddy Mercury there don't have a chance against Thor, man.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Wood splitting with your host, unclemoustache's cousin chronic metrosexual, "Art Manly," and his rusty mushroomed out Wal-Maul.




How the hell is that guy in a video about a "manly" act? **** bird has hair gel, mustache, and rolled up jeans.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Thor does her without his hair getting un-bunned. Freddy Mercury there don't have a chance against Thor, man.


That kid is highly trainable.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> I would put money on the Thor's hammer kid over this guy.



I give you The (Future) King.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> That kid is highly trainable.



_*That's*_ my point. Just seven pages it took for it to get out on the floor. Everybody give Wolfie a, "Like."

Every body bitching about the kids these days. The kid has _*initiative*_ and _*that*_ is what it takes to learn.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> _*That's*_ my point. Just seven pages it took for it to get out on the floor. Everybody give Wolfie a, "Like."
> 
> Every body bitching about the kids these days. The kid has _*initiative*_ and _*that*_ is what it takes to learn.


I would love to have a helper that motivated.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

This cat is bad, Wolf. hehe.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> This cat is bad, Wolf. hehe.



You do know that was "overclocked"


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> _*That's*_ my point. Just seven pages it took for it to get out on the floor. Everybody give Wolfie a, "Like."
> 
> Every body bitching about the kids these days. The kid has _*initiative*_ and _*that*_ is what it takes to learn.



I don't know about that. I've met lots of dumb asses with great initiative. Takes the ability to follow directions/take advice (open mind), some intellectual ability, and the ability to swallow pride.


----------



## Trx250r180 (Dec 30, 2014)

This is the x-27 of my choice .........

http://www.neemantools.com/en/gallery/photos/finnish-splitting-axe-heavy-duty


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> I don't know about that. I've met lots of dumb asses with great initiative. Takes the ability to follow directions/take advice (open mind), some intellectual ability, and the ability to swallow pride.



All those things are rooted in desire. A dumb ass with initiative can always be trained by a competent expert.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Trx250r180 said:


> This is the x-27 of my choice .........
> 
> http://www.neemantools.com/en/gallery/photos/finnish-splitting-axe-heavy-duty


A work of art my friend


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> All those things are rooted in desire. A dumb ass with initiative can always be trained by a competent expert.


That is correct , but I know a few dumb asses with no motivation and I can attest that they cant be trained


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> All those things are rooted in desire. A dumb ass with initiative can always be trained by a competent expert.



Nah, I disagree again. Desire without initiative is wasted, I give you that. Initiative tied to insanity can not be fixed. You may need to serve in the military to understand what I'm saying. An open mind is key. I can have all the initiative in the world and amount to nothing. The guy is using a 30 lbs maul. That is insanity. Initiative coupled with insanity leads to pulled muscles or worse.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> Nah, I disagree again. Desire without initiative is wasted, I give you that. Initiative tied to insanity can not be fixed. You may need to serve in the military to understand what I'm saying. An open mind is key. I can have all the initiative in the world and amount to nothing. The guy is using a 30 lbs maul. That is insanity. Initiative coupled with insanity leads to pulled muscles or worse.


The fact that he can use it repeatedly tells me he is capable.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> The fact that he can use it repeatedly tells me he is capable.



True. I'm not saying he's not capable of using that maul though. I'm capable of continually bending at the waist to lift objects off the ground. It's not the ideal way to lift things though so I always bend my knees and do a deadlift. My wife always bends at the waist. Not that I mind her bending down like that. Her lower back hurts and I've told her how to properly lift things yet she's still doing it. She's showing signs of insanity, pride, a closed mind, laziness, and no initiative. Hope she never finds this site.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> True. I'm not saying he's not capable of using that maul though. I'm capable of continually bending at the waist to lift objects off the ground. It's not the ideal way to lift things though so I always bend my knees and do a deadlift. My wife always bends at the waist. Not that I mind her bending down like that. Her lower back hurts and I've told her how to properly lift things yet she's still doing it. She's showing signs of insanity, pride, a closed mind, laziness, and no initiative. Hope she never finds this site.


I know what you are saying hes going to get hurt with that. I used to be like that then you get wiser.


----------



## thor's hammer kid (Dec 30, 2014)

Hi folks!

One of you kindly sent me the link to this thread. Thanks!

To be totally clear, this was for fun. I respect your expertise, and yes, if I wasn't around my father would have split these with a wedge or simply sawed them in half. But I was home for a few days for Christmas and I was supposed to break up these rounds so my father (bad back) could lift them and split them himself (with the Fiskars— it's a great old man tool). I had originally intended to do a comparison of both quartering and slabbing techniques, but I didn't have enough time or enough clear rounds to do that. I included the Fiskars because it's very popular among the internet community (love or hate) and it has its place as a cheap tool, but I wanted to show that it is not as effective for splitting big rounds, especially knotty ones.

My family has heated our house with firewood all my life, and I've been splitting firewood with an 8 lb traditional maul for over a decade, which is the better part of my life. The Fiskars is useful in some cases (small diameter, straight grained stuff) where its light weight and maneuverability make it quick and the wood will break in one hit. Since I am young and broad shouldered enough to swing it, my 30 lb maul is a great tool too. I fully understand that I am blessed to have the youth and strength that I do, and I try not to abuse my body.

I made the 30 lb maul after spending a few years doing manual rock breaking for landscaping with a 20 lb hammer. It seemed like the 12 lb maul I had was pretty easy to swing, and I'd get more powerful strikes with a heavier tool. Was I right? Yes. Is this a solution for everybody, or even me in a few years? No. Of course not!

And finally, in defense of the 30 lb maul, while I totally agree that wedges would be much less troublesome, I would say from my experience that for the entire process this is faster, at least the way I use wedges. A wedge would be faster to quarter these rounds, but then I'd still spend some time pounding on the quarters with the 8 lb maul. For breaking up the quarters, I would still prefer to use a heavier tool than an 8 lb maul. I suppose this is callow impatience, but I don't like having to strike more than once for a split.

It takes about one to four minutes to break the round with the 30 lb maul, and then five to ten minutes to break up the quarters and pile them up. Using a wedge would be roughly the same amount of time to quarter, though probably a little less. Using an 8 lb maul to break up the quarters would be slower (but certainly less effort!) at least the way I swing it. Someone mentioned that I have terrible form for my swing— this is the way my father taught me to swing the tool, and it works better than any other method I've seen in person or online, but I'm totally receptive to a better way, because at the end of the day I have to split a lot of firewood every year. I know of the axe-twist method, but it tends not to work quartering big rounds. So if I'm doing something wrong with my swing, I'd love to fix it! As for the hydraulic splitter, my family has a 26 ton hydraulic splitter that would have torn these rounds apart. However, it would have required moving the splitter (which is fairly heavy by itself) from one round to another, since these rounds weighed 800 pounds or so, which is too heavy for our little tractor's bucket. And once they were split in half, it would still be necessary to wrestle a 400 pound half around to split it again. I'd say for effort hydraulics about break even with my 30 lb maul. But wedges are definitely the way to go to do this fastest with the least effort.

For general woodsplitting, I think that a 20 lb maul with the same wide-angle as this one would be a somewhat more practical tool. But again, I'm not a professional, and this was mostly for fun.

Thanks for your interest, even if you think I'm an idiot!


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> Nah, I disagree again. Desire without initiative is wasted, I give you that. Initiative tied to insanity can not be fixed. You may need to serve in the military to understand what I'm saying. An open mind is key. I can have all the initiative in the world and amount to nothing. The guy is using a 30 lbs maul. That is insanity. Initiative coupled with insanity leads to pulled muscles or worse.



No, with, "all the initiative in the world," you could literally move a mountain. The kid isn't insane. If you don't have a capable Dad, uncle, brother, older cousin, a mentor or the military to train you, you are down to learning it yourself. That takes initiative. With initiative, you'll find perseverance. With those attributes and time, you'll get experience. Then you have a vocabulary which allows you to ask the right questions and enough wisdom to sort out the value of the answers. Furthermore, try training a kid to work with his face buried in a device all day.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

thor's hammer kid said:


> Hi folks!
> 
> One of you kindly sent me the link to this thread. Thanks!
> 
> ...



It was me, Bud. Welcome to Arboristsite.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> I know what you are saying hes going to get hurt with that. I used to be like that then you get wiser.



Me too. Used to break my grandfather's maul handle all the time with overswings. He bought me this monster fire engine red monstrosity that was all metal/steel. Pulled some muscles in my back after a couple days use. Gave it some rest and went right back at it.


----------



## lone wolf (Dec 30, 2014)

thor's hammer kid said:


> Hi folks!
> 
> One of you kindly sent me the link to this thread. Thanks!
> 
> ...


Where in Jersey are you?


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

Trx250r180 said:


> This is the x-27 of my choice .........
> 
> http://www.neemantools.com/en/gallery/photos/finnish-splitting-axe-heavy-duty



Wow Wee. Bookmarked.


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> No, with, "all the initiative in the world," you could literally move a mountain. The kid isn't insane. If you don't have a capable Dad, uncle, brother, older cousin, a mentor or the military to train you, you are down to learning it yourself. That takes initiative. With initiative, you'll find perseverance. With those attributes and time, you'll get experience. Then you have a vocabulary which allows you to ask the right questions and enough wisdom to sort out the value of the answers. Furthermore, try training a kid to work with his face buried in a device all day.



Well I guess this is one of those situations where we can agree to disagree or however that saying goes. No amount of time will cure insanity. People with initiative fail all the time. There is no amount of initiative that will cure personal pride that hinders your ability to effectively adapt. Initiative, perseverance, and time will give you experience but what really matters is the quality. If you only have experience doing something that's wrong than your experience amounts to basically nothing. Pride can come in the way of asking the right questions or using the advice given to you. 

Anyway, I'm getting too deep into this lol. This thread was supposed to be another Fiskars is crap deal. Not sure how we got so sidetracked.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> Well I guess this is one of those situations where we can agree to disagree or however that saying goes.



That depends on your perspective, Ambull01. This situation might be the opportunity you needed to learn.

After the lack of ability to access a present situation accurately and to act on it, the next most terrible hindrance to progress is the lack of willingness to reflect.




Ambull01 said:


> If you only have experience doing something that's wrong than your experience amounts to basically nothing



*
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work. -Thomas Edison*




Ambull01 said:


> This thread was supposed to be another Fiskars is crap deal.



Don't underestimate me.


----------



## Philbert (Dec 30, 2014)

Trx250r180 said:


> This is the x-27 of my choice .........


($550 + international shipping, for those interested . . .)

Would love to try one!

Philbert


----------



## Philbert (Dec 30, 2014)

thor's hammer kid said:


> Hi folks!


Welcome to A.S.!

Philbert


----------



## Ambull01 (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> That depends on your perspective, Ambull01. This situation might be the opportunity you needed to learn.
> 
> After the lack of ability to access a present situation accurately, the next most terrible hindrance to progress is the lack of willingness to reflect.
> *
> ...



lol. I knew someone was going to mention Thomas Edison. That 10k quote popped into my head as I mentioned insanity. 

I know swinging a 30 lbs maul will not work for me. If it works for little Thor, great. I'll just leave it at that. 

I reflect all the time. I take advice/recommendations from anyone and research said advice to see if it passes the sniff test. I'm ALWAYS thinking of progress. Just ask @Philbert lol.


----------



## turnkey4099 (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> And now the classic, "Locust Speed Test."




Wedge and 10lb sledge would have been faster and less effort.

Harry K


----------



## zogger (Dec 30, 2014)

@thor's hammer kid

Hey man! You have strength, enthusiasm and endurance, tell ya whut! I doubt I could swing your big maul! hahaha I'd give it a try though, roundhouse to the side maybe...probably flip myself right over though... 

OK, speed and technique tip with the fiskars, you can increase the foot pounds at impact. Right at the last second, drop your butt, bend at the knees. I would say it gives another..wild guess...15% more whammo to the whamee. That extra gravity boost helps. I don't do that all the time, just whenever I need it.

And my other post up yonder ^^ someplace has how to do real large rounds.


----------



## turnkey4099 (Dec 30, 2014)

lone wolf said:


> I would put money on the Thor's hammer kid over this guy.



Yep. Looks like he is way over powering the maul and his accuracy sucks. Sure dod see a lot of little splinters coming off as he was working the little splits.


Harry K


----------



## svk (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> I give you The (Future) King.



While some of his technique needs some work, this kid has it going on. 

I've found the quickest way to make splits is to lay them all out like that and go to town with the axe. 

When I saw him carrying the double length @benp rounds out I was hoping he was going to split them full length.


----------



## Marshy (Dec 30, 2014)

The find the most power I get from a swing is when I can put the round on its side, stand on its side and swing right down between my toes like the underhand chop. Ill have to get a pic to show you. It sounds dangerous but once you see it it's really not any more dangerous and normal splitting and the extra ~90 degrees of swing really allows a lot more energy.


----------



## sunfish (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Maybe the kid can learn from this nut.
> 
> 
> 
> -edit No disrespect meant to the Clark family. Tom died in 2008. What an animal. R.I.P.






Overclock said:


>




I knew Tom Clark personally. He was a one man firewood producing machine.

As good as he was splitting by hand, he used a Super Split for production & was the largest firewood producer in the area. He is the reason I bought a Super Split.

He was also one of the country's best blacksmiths.


----------



## zogger (Dec 30, 2014)

Marshy said:


> The find the most power I get from a swing is when I can put the round on its side, stand on its side and swing right down between my toes like the underhand chop. Ill have to get a pic to show you. It sounds dangerous but once you see it it's really not any more dangerous and normal splitting and the extra ~90 degrees of swing really allows a lot more energy.



Interesting..never tried that...hmm...

Do you brace the back of the round with like another round or something?


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

sunfish said:


> I knew Tom Clark personally. He was a one man firewood producing machine.
> 
> As good as he was splitting by hand, he used a Super Split for production & was the largest firewood producer in the area. He is the reason I bought a Super Split.
> 
> He was also one of the country's best blacksmiths.




Thanks, Don. I saw the, "That's Incredible" when I was a kid that had him on it. We all loved watching him go. He influenced more people than he could possibly know. I relate to people like that and just don't really understand most people today. It's all about the trees and a self-sufficient lifestyle.


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

turnkey4099 said:


> Yep. Looks like he is way over powering the maul and his accuracy sucks. Sure dod see a lot of little splinters coming off as he was working the little splits.
> 
> 
> Harry K




Harry you are referring to "The Art of Manliness," guy with the moustache, right?


----------



## Overclock (Dec 30, 2014)

@sunfish what finally got old Tom? Sounded like he was as banged up as Evel Knievel and he still rode and hit the wood hard. When he passed at 80 what happened?


----------



## Marshy (Dec 30, 2014)

zogger said:


> Interesting..never tried that...hmm...
> 
> Do you brace the back of the round with like another round or something?


Yes, put it perpendicular to a log of similar size so you can stand on that log too, if your not comfortable with the reach slip a chunk of wood under the end furthest from your feet so the cut end is angled up. If you can get the round cocked at about a 45 degree angle or little less is a good position. play around on my wood pile to find two logs near the base that have the right spacing to set my rounds on to get the setup I described. I only use this for the stubborn rounds that don't want to split normally because it's not efficient for large volume. 
I


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## Marshy (Dec 30, 2014)

Marshy said:


> Yes, put it perpendicular to a log of similar size so you can stand on that log too, if your not comfortable with the reach slip a chunk of wood under the end furthest from your feet so the cut end is angled up. If you can get the round cocked at about a 45 degree angle or little less is a good position. play around on my wood pile to find two logs near the base that have the right spacing to set my rounds on to get the setup I described. I only use this for the stubborn rounds that don't want to split normally because it's not efficient for large volume.
> I View attachment 390745



I will add, another round is not enough support. I wouldn't try it on anything less than a full size log. I do it at the base of my log pile where the logs have no chance of moving from the impact I create.


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## lapeer20m (Dec 30, 2014)

I want to build a splitter for the end of my backhoe just for large rounds like this.


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## sunfish (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> @sunfish what finally got old Tom? Sounded like he was as banged up as Evel Knievel and he still rode and hit the wood hard. When he passed at 80 what happened?


Cancer.


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## zogger (Dec 30, 2014)

lapeer20m said:


> I want to build a splitter for the end of my backhoe just for large rounds like this.




That's pretty spiffy! There was another one here like that, but it just had a wedge and you rammed it down into the round.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 30, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Harry you are referring to "The Art of Manliness," guy with the moustache, right?



I'm not sure now. I think it was the second one. 

Harry K


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## Philbert (Dec 30, 2014)

lapeer20m said:


> I want to build a splitter for the end of my backhoe just for large rounds like this.


Seen several for skid-steer loaders. Never saw one on a backhoe like that before.

Philbert


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## tla100 (Dec 30, 2014)

I did not think Little Thors swing is straining too hard. He lifts straight up vertical, then pulls straight down. Not much twisting.


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## Overclock (Dec 31, 2014)

Well said.


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

Marshy said:


> The find the most power I get from a swing is when I can put the round on its side, stand on its side and swing right down between my toes like the underhand chop. Ill have to get a pic to show you. It sounds dangerous but once you see it it's really not any more dangerous and normal splitting and the extra ~90 degrees of swing really allows a lot more energy.



So you're talking about how the old school boxers used to train for punching, I think. I may try it.



tla100 said:


> I did not think Little Thors swing is straining too hard. He lifts straight up vertical, then pulls straight down. Not much twisting.



True. Seems to just let it drop too. Could probably make a homemade splitter with it.


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## Overclock (Dec 31, 2014)

Marshy said:


> Yes, put it perpendicular to a log of similar size so you can stand on that log too, if your not comfortable with the reach slip a chunk of wood under the end furthest from your feet so the cut end is angled up. If you can get the round cocked at about a 45 degree angle or little less is a good position. play around on my wood pile to find two logs near the base that have the right spacing to set my rounds on to get the setup I described. I only use this for the stubborn rounds that don't want to split normally because it's not efficient for large volume.
> I View attachment 390745



Luv to see that in use. Demonstration of the technique invlolved.


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## Marshy (Dec 31, 2014)

Overclock said:


> Luv to see that in use. Demonstration of the technique invlolved.


Won't be for another week or more. Just got about 18" of snow last night and being a holiday weekend I doubt I will do any firewood before a week or two. When I get a chance I will use my gopro.


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## firebrick43 (Dec 31, 2014)

God blessed me with a strong body. Spent years growing up baling straw and then five in the marine corps. Somewhere along the way I became very safety conscience. Took some college courses including some health and occupational safety courses which exposed me to the science and math of occupational injuries. With your size and strength the 30 lbs is not going to hurt you but the way your doing it and force behind it defiantly is. Don't jerk it up and let the weight do the work.

Anyway work in a machine shop with large engines. Have been making 55 lbs connecting rods for the last 5 years. I was the strongest on the line and when we started production every thing was manual load into the cnc machines. I watched everyone get shoulder injuries and I had some neck pain due to tense muscles. I was the only one without a long term injury but if they had not installed robots I am sure I would as well. Also as a lead man of the line I was responsible for taking numbers. The old guy that everyone thought was slow usually out produced the busy bodies. Slow and steady wins the race. 

When I get a young Gung-Ho kid to train one of the first things I do is take him around to meet the older guys that had to manually load machines for a decade or so before the lines were automated and point out how crippled they are from the abuse.


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

the fiskar x27 is a POS though. i knew that the first time i saw one. have never to this day used a synthetic handle axe that worked well. traditional hickory handle 4.5lb all the way for me. i hardly ever use a maul unless i got some big stubborn hemlock. burn more energy swing'n a maul and if i'm doing as much wood in a day as most guys do in a year it really counts.


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> the fiskar x27 is a POS though. i knew that the first time i saw one. have never to this day used a synthetic handle axe that worked well. traditional hickory handle 4.5lb all the way for me. i hardly ever use a maul unless i got some big stubborn hemlock. burn more energy swing'n a maul and if i'm doing as much wood in a day as most guys do in a year it really counts.



Hmm, the POS seems to be working great for me so far. Handle has survived a few massive over strikes too. Used to be known as a handle breaker. Broke about 3-4 of handles splitting for my grandfather. I don't really give a damn if the handle is wood, plastic, foam, etc as long as it gets the job done.


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> Hmm, the POS seems to be working great for me so far. Handle has survived a few massive over strikes too. Used to be known as a handle breaker. Broke about 3-4 of handles splitting for my grandfather. I don't really give a damn if the handle is wood, plastic, foam, etc as long as it gets the job done.



we'll get ya out here in some western hemlock or green doug fir. you'll be a changed man


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> we'll get ya out here in some western hemlock or green doug fir. you'll be a changed man



lol. Well I should have said the POS Fiskars works great for what I split. A sweet gum round defeated it though.


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

if you were swinging that x27 at western hemlock especially you wouldn't be able to throw it far enough to be happy it's gone LOL you'd still feel it's precense


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> if you were swinging that x27 at western hemlock especially you wouldn't be able to throw it far enough to be happy it's gone LOL you'd still feel it's precense



So if the Fiskars came with a wooden handle would you like it? Is the handle the only deal breaker? Also, how does your wooden handled 4.5 lbs splitting tool do against this stubborn hemlock?


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## Overclock (Dec 31, 2014)

I'm a wood handle guy. Lot's of hickory here. Went through four or five handles in the last two years. It's a wildcard shot to get a good one. I've had them blow out on the first hit before. And I've had them last years.


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

Overclock said:


> I'm a wood handle guy. Lot's of hickory here. Went through four or five handles in the last two years. It's a wildcard shot to get a good one. I've had them blow out on the first hit before. And I've had them last years.



So that may be my issue. I don't fondle my handles, just grip the crap out of it and try to drive the head of the X27 into the ground.


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## Overclock (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> So that may be my issue. I don't fondle my handles, just grip the crap out of it and try to drive the head of the X27 into the ground.



That's what you have to do to get them split small enough to cram in your microbus.


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

Overclock said:


> That's what you have to do to get them split small enough to cram in your microbus.



Nah. I noodle them in the woods and toss the chunks into my short bus. I split at home. I like to take my time with my plastic POS.


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## zogger (Dec 31, 2014)

I haven't actually broken a handle in years. Could be I am just too wuss to break them, but..I rarely get overstrikes, or misses. Last one I replaced, the shaft finally shrunk enough and had so many wedges put in it, it just wore out, so I replaced it.

I have a couple axes to rehang, but that's because I bought the bare heads.


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

my wood handle axes split stubborn hemlock pretty good. when i'm doing firewood for money i try to make every step/swing count so if i got some stubborn hemlock i switch to the maul just to take away the wood integrity with the first split. then pop splits off of what's left with the axe. most people want fir which is really easy to split once seasoned so it's just a plinking game. the odd few that order hemlock i should almost charge more though LOL. when i think about energy and time spent sometimes it's better to use the heavy weight then to swing the light weight over and over which is why i own both. i haven't broken a handle in years as well. i buy yellow twine at the dollar store, wrap it around the handle just below the axe head tightly then put hockey tape over that. i think i've only broken 2 or 3 handles in my life actually. my newest axe i have yet to do that to and it's still fine. i got pretty good aim though so i rarely ever wrap the handle on anything anyways. i just do what i do for security just in case.


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## Philbert (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> So if the Fiskars came with a wooden handle would you like it?


Again, a heavier handle would defeat one of the major design features of the Fiskars: concentrating the mass at the '_point of operation_'. If they like wood, they can wrap it in that vinyl wallpaper with self-stick backing: comes in a wide variety of wood grains.

Philbert


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

Philbert said:


> Again, a heavier handle would defeat one of the major design features of the Fiskars: concentrating the mass at the '_point of operation_'. If they like wood, they can wrap it in that vinyl wallpaper with self-stick backing: comes in a wide variety of wood grains.
> 
> Philbert



liking the wood handle has nothing to do with just liking the looks. synthetic handles absorb all the energy and aren't much if any lighter then wood anyways. synthetic handles are garbage. the only wood they split well is wood that you can pretty well look at with an evil eye and it splits itself.


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## Philbert (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> . . . synthetic handles absorb all the energy . . .



The energy is supposed to go into the wood, not the handle. The whole idea is to use the momentum of the head, at the end of the handle, and not to try and 'push' it through with your arms. I want a handle that will absorb any remaining shock and vibration. Had a 'Monster Maul' with a steel handle that transmitted it all to my arms - hated it.



westcoaster90 said:


> . . . synthetic handles are garbage. the only wood they split well is wood that you can pretty well look at with an evil eye and it splits itself.



Shoot! Now someone is going to have to go back and explain that to several hundred million cords of firewood that have been split over the last 20+ years around the world! We better get started! Maybe I can paint an 'evil eye' on my Fiskars and get the wood to split even before contact?

Nothing works on everything, but these work for me on the stuff I do, with a lot less effort than with a heavier tool. 

Philbert


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

You need to come split some western hemlock. You'll be a changed man


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## Philbert (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> You need to come split some western hemlock. You'll be a changed man


No. No I don't. These work for me on the stuff that I do. That does not make them 'garbage'.

Philbert


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

Philbert said:


> No. No I don't. These work for me on the stuff that I do. That does not make them 'garbage'.
> 
> Philbert



LOL your right man. I was just pushing you a bit. Maybe they're **** for everything I do but ok for the rest of the world.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> lol. Well I should have said the POS Fiskars works great for what I split. A sweet gum round defeated it though.



Just another example of "no tool is right for everything". Anyone splitting more than a few rounds should be armed with a good ax (X27 has outperformed anything else I tried), about 6 or 8lb maul and at least a 10lb sledge with 2 steel wedges.

I'd no more be without all three of them than I would with just 9/16" wrench in my tool box.

Harry K


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## Marshy (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> liking the wood handle has nothing to do with just liking the looks. synthetic handles absorb all the energy and aren't much if any lighter then wood anyways. *synthetic handles are garbage. the only wood they split well is wood that you can pretty well look at with an evil eye and it splits itself.*


All do respect, keep telling yourself that.


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

turnkey4099 said:


> Just another example of "no tool is right for everything". Anyone splitting more than a few rounds should be armed with a good ax (X27 has outperformed anything else I tried), about 6 or 8lb maul and at least a 10lb sledge with 2 steel wedges.
> 
> I'd no more be without all three of them than I would with just 9/16" wrench in my tool box.
> 
> Harry K



How big is the wood that you split? I do fine with a 4.5lb axe and a 8lb maul. I have a few synthetic handle axes but none of them even compare to the traditional wood handle ones. I bought an x27 just after a joined to see what all the hype was about and gave it to my BIL cause the only thing it worked good on for me was crispy dry 18"- Doug fir. Had to be knot free too cause the x27 didn't go through anything but straight grain.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 31, 2014)

zogger said:


> I haven't actually broken a handle in years. Could be I am just too wuss to break them, but..I rarely get overstrikes, or misses. Last one I replaced, the shaft finally shrunk enough and had so many wedges put in it, it just wore out, so I replaced it.
> 
> I have a couple axes to rehang, but that's because I bought the bare heads.



I used to go through a handle in my maul in 2 or 3 years. Last year I finally needed a new handle. The one in there had lasted through 2 resets (shortened the head end each time and shaved the handle down to fit. Couldn't shorten any more so off to the sstore to get a handle. compared cost of handle to a new plastic handle maul. Handle half the cost and I had had enough of fitting handles. Came home with the plastic. Still getting used to the different feel.

Harry K


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

Marshy said:


> All do respect, keep telling yourself that.



Come out with me for a day with your x27. I'll pay for your air fare.


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## turnkey4099 (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> How big is the wood that you split? I do fine with a 4.5lb axe and a 8lb maul. I have a few synthetic handle axes but none of them even compare to the traditional wood handle ones. I bought an x27 just after a joined to see what all the hype was about and gave it to my BIL cause the only thing it worked good on for me was crispy dry 18"- Doug fir. Had to be knot free too cause the x27 didn't go through anything but straight grain.



I have split stuff up to 4' diameter, usuallyi runs around 30" and under. I DO NOT use just one tool - that is the stupid way to split wood. Halve a big round with sledge/wedge, then downsize the halfs with either the Fiskars or the maul whichever works better on that particular piece.

I don't even try to split anything with the x27 where I have to go through a knot. I spl1it around the knot no matter which tool I am using. If the knot HAS to be split it goes to the noodle pile.

Most of the people who bad-mouth the Fiskars do it because then think one tool will do everything.

Harry K


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

how many cords do you do a year?. i have a trailer that hauls 2 cords. i've left early and got back late filling it twice in one day a few times already. i don't just use one tool either. i just choose efficient tools for the job and for what i do the fiskars is not. i have no problem with you guys loving that axe. don't bother me none. i just had really high expectations of it because of the way everybody talks it up. kinda the same as the 346. heard that they cut, split, and stack wood for you but owned a few and realize i am a 60cc+ guy. i had big expectations of the 346 and it let me down because of that. much prefer a 357/359. i still own 2 346's but they are beaters.


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## zogger (Dec 31, 2014)

turnkey4099 said:


> I used to go through a handle in my maul in 2 or 3 years. Last year I finally needed a new handle. The one in there had lasted through 2 resets (shortened the head end each time and shaved the handle down to fit. Couldn't shorten any more so off to the sstore to get a handle. compared cost of handle to a new plastic handle maul. Handle half the cost and I had had enough of fitting handles. Came home with the plastic. Still getting used to the different feel.
> 
> Harry K



My anvil on a stick maul has a wooden handle, but, it also has a rubber guard below the head. Some cheap made in mexico maul, but it still works OK. I prefer the fiskars when it is appropriate to use it.


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> my wood handle axes split stubborn hemlock pretty good. when i'm doing firewood for money i try to make every step/swing count so if i got some stubborn hemlock i switch to the maul just to take away the wood integrity with the first split. then pop splits off of what's left with the axe. most people want fir which is really easy to split once seasoned so it's just a plinking game. the odd few that order hemlock i should almost charge more though LOL. when i think about energy and time spent sometimes it's better to use the heavy weight then to swing the light weight over and over which is why i own both. i haven't broken a handle in years as well. i buy yellow twine at the dollar store, wrap it around the handle just below the axe head tightly then put hockey tape over that. i think i've only broken 2 or 3 handles in my life actually. my newest axe i have yet to do that to and it's still fine. i got pretty good aim though so i rarely ever wrap the handle on anything anyways. i just do what i do for security just in case.



So your wood handled axe splits hemlock and the Fiskars is an epic fail? Are you sure you're not letting your personal bias interfere with an honest comparison? Like subconsciously holding back on a Fiskars swing or accidentally on purpose striking a different spot. Although, if it's subconscious, guess you wouldn't really know lol. 



Philbert said:


> Again, a heavier handle would defeat one of the major design features of the Fiskars: concentrating the mass at the '_point of operation_'. If they like wood, they can wrap it in that vinyl wallpaper with self-stick backing: comes in a wide variety of wood grains.
> 
> Philbert
> View attachment 390907



lmao. That's awesome! I want to wrap carbon fiber wallpaper around the Fiskars. Give it some flair. 



turnkey4099 said:


> Just another example of "no tool is right for everything". Anyone splitting more than a few rounds should be armed with a good ax (X27 has outperformed anything else I tried), about 6 or 8lb maul and at least a 10lb sledge with 2 steel wedges.
> 
> I'd no more be without all three of them than I would with just 9/16" wrench in my tool box.
> 
> Harry K



Sledge and wedges take too long. I just cut them with the chainsaw.


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## zogger (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> Sledge and wedges take too long. I just cut them with the chainsaw.



I would like sledge and wedge action for a change of pace once in awhile if they made some BIG wedges. BIG ONES, like two feet long, fat, beefy, tapered nice sharp cutting edge. Something you could wail on with a big sledge and just go through anything. Cut a kerf with the saw deep, slip in mambo brand wedge and WHOMP IT.

Sometimes it is just fun to BFH stuff....


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> So your wood handled axe splits hemlock and the Fiskars is an epic fail? Are you sure you're not letting your personal bias interfere with an honest comparison? Like subconsciously holding back on a Fiskars swing or accidentally on purpose striking a different spot. Although, if it's subconscious, guess you wouldn't really know lol.



certainly not. if the fiskars worked better or made the job easier i would be using it. trust me on that one. i'm always looking for ways to make things easier for myself. the fiskars wasn't an epic fail. it just took more energy from me to do the deeds my wood handle axes do better. i still think the only way you guys are gonna know what i'm talking about is to come try split some western hemlock  the title of the thread is "fiskars x27 what a piece of plastic". this is a **** talking thread. if you guys have nothing bad to say about the x27 move along LOL


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## Philbert (Dec 31, 2014)

How about an electric jackhammer for you Zog? That ought to work on big rounds?

Philbert


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

zogger said:


> I would like sledge and wedge action for a change of pace once in awhile if they made some BIG wedges. BIG ONES, like two feet long, fat, beefy, tapered nice sharp cutting edge. Something you could wail on with a big sledge and just go through anything. Cut a kerf with the saw deep, slip in mambo brand wedge and WHOMP IT.
> 
> Sometimes it is just fun to BFH stuff....



Those would be some heavy ass wedges. Does sound kind of fun though. I use to hit a big ole tire with a sledge for exercise. Kind of miss that since the Fiskars is so light. 



westcoaster90 said:


> certainly not. if the fiskars worked better or made the job easier i would be using it. trust me on that one. i'm always looking for ways to make things easier for myself. the fiskars wasn't an epic fail. it just took more energy from me to do the deeds my wood handle axes do better. i still think the only way you guys are gonna know what i'm talking about is to come try split some western hemlock  the title of the thread is "fiskars x27 what a piece of plastic". this is a **** talking thread. if you guys have nothing bad to say about the x27 move along LOL



I need to try a wood handled axe then. Don't really understand how a wood handle could make so much of a difference. 

You can't have just one side of the argument! That would be too boring. Although if I must say something negative, vibrations are a ***** when I over strike. Teflon comes off quick as hell. Edge gets nicked up easily when you blow through a round and hit gravel lol.


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> I need to try a wood handled axe then. Don't really understand how a wood handle could make so much of a difference.
> 
> You can't have just one side of the argument! That would be too boring. Although if I must say something negative, vibrations are a ***** when I over strike. Teflon comes off quick as hell. Edge gets nicked up easily when you blow through a round and hit gravel lol.



you mean you haven't even tried a wood handle axe?


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## Cerran (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> we'll get ya out here in some western hemlock or green doug fir. you'll be a changed man



I split hemlock and doug fir regularly with the fiskars and have no issues. On big rounds I use a wedge and a sledge for the first split and it's 1-2 hits with the fiskars after that.

I have 2 good wood handled axes and they simply don't seem to split as well as the fiskars.


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## svk (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> you mean you haven't even tried a wood handle axe?


You say a standard 4.5# axe out splits the X27? I find that interesting but everyone has different results so I'm not about to dispute it. A good maul will shine in knotty wood over the X27.


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## zogger (Dec 31, 2014)

Philbert said:


> How about an electric jackhammer for you Zog? That ought to work on big rounds?
> 
> Philbert



Wood or synthetic handles??


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

must be a difference compared to your inland hemlock. even though people in ID would like to think they live on the west coast they actually don't. our wind stressed bent to hell ugly ass tree's are something else. lets just say this. and hour east from me is a city. it's another falling wood cutting town and if guys over there come here they need to be retrained and that's all there is to it. that's onlt an hour inland too. the wood is way different


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> you mean you haven't even tried a wood handle axe?



I've tried a regular single bit axe to split, it sucked. Haven't tried a wooden handled splitting axe. Just can't see how it makes a huge difference.


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## Big_Wood (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> I've tried a regular single bit axe to split, it sucked. Haven't tried a wooden handled splitting axe. Just can't see how it makes a huge difference.



just try it. i have synthetic axes, wood, and have had aluminum as well. i have a buddy who is making me a solid aluminum hatchet for a kindling maker. trying to get him to do a stainless full size axe for me but i to hate metal. to much vibrations and it seems to all go to your brain. LOL. he's just a metal worker who likes to make things like that. wood is what's best for me. i know how you guys are looking at it and i completely understand. it's hard to make any sense of how one could work better cause they are just handles. the head does the work. the way it feels to me when i use them is the synthetic handles absorb some of the energy that would have otherwise been absorbed by the wood.


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## Ambull01 (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> just try it. i have synthetic axes, wood, and have had aluminum as well. i have a buddy who is making me a solid aluminum hatchet for a kindling maker. trying to get him to do a stainless full size axe for me but i to hate metal. to much vibrations and it seems to all go to your brain. LOL. he's just a metal worker who likes to make things like that. wood is what's best for me. i know how you guys are looking at it and i completely understand. it's hard to make any sense of how one could work better cause they are just handles. the head does the work. the way it feels to me when i use them is the synthetic handles absorb some of the energy that would have otherwise been absorbed by the wood.



What type of head do you have on it? An aluminum hatchet sounds great. Hope you post a pic of it when its made. 

I was thinking the vibrations were just an after effect of the actual strike. Although I guess it is energy in a nutshell. How in the hell does the Fiskars somehow lose that energy vs the wooden handle using it!? That scream wasn't directed at you BTW, just venting my frustration at understanding this seemingly simple issue lol


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## svk (Dec 31, 2014)

Ambull01 said:


> How in the hell does the Fiskars somehow lose that energy vs the wooden handle using it!?


It doesn't. But you'll figure that out for yourself


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## Cerran (Dec 31, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> must be a difference compared to your inland hemlock. even though people in ID would like to think they live on the west coast they actually don't. our wind stressed bent to hell ugly ass tree's are something else. lets just say this. and hour east from me is a city. it's another falling wood cutting town and if guys over there come here they need to be retrained and that's all there is to it. that's onlt an hour inland too. the wood is way different



Yes because trees are so different in BC . I've cut and split the same species of trees on Whidbey Island and they aren't really any different.


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## aarolar (Dec 31, 2014)

He needs to flick his wrist with that fiskars and that round woulda split on the second swing...


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## Big_Wood (Jan 1, 2015)

you guys can like the fiskars and it don't bother me none. i'll like my wood handle arvika's. i can't judge the x27 for your wood but it is not adequate for alot of my wood. i bought a fiskars cause of the rave reviews on here but soon realized it was overrated like alot of things here on AS.


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## Ambull01 (Jan 1, 2015)

westcoaster90 said:


> you guys can like the fiskars and it don't bother me none. i'll like my wood handle arvika's. i can't judge the x27 for your wood but it is not adequate for alot of my wood. i bought a fiskars cause of the rave reviews on here but soon realized it was overrated like alot of things here on AS.



Awesome. Now if everyone had your attitude AS, nay, the world would be a better place. Fiskars may be over rated but I'll tell you what isn't. You really do need a 60+ cc saw to cut firewood. Plus you need a big bar on your saw, not just one saw either. Need at the very least two saws. Plus you need a bunch of fancy doodads in order to be a real saw/firewood man. 

Anyway, Happy New Year sir. Hope you have many more years swinging away at your nasty, tough to split wood.


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## Big_Wood (Jan 1, 2015)

happy new year bud!!!


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 1, 2015)

zogger said:


> My anvil on a stick maul has a wooden handle, but, it also has a rubber guard below the head. Some cheap made in mexico maul, but it still works OK. I prefer the fiskars when it is appropriate to use it.



I forgot to mention that rubber donut. That is what allowed me to reuse a handle twice when it got too loose. I also have one on the maul.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 1, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> So your wood handled axe splits hemlock and the Fiskars is an epic fail? Are you sure you're not letting your personal bias interfere with an honest comparison? Like subconsciously holding back on a Fiskars swing or accidentally on purpose striking a different spot. Although, if it's subconscious, guess you wouldn't really know lol.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



??? You can saw a 30" + round in half faster than taking 3-4 shots with a sledge? Wow!!

Harry K


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## Ambull01 (Jan 1, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> ??? You can saw a 30" + round in half faster than taking 3-4 shots with a sledge? Wow!!
> 
> Harry K



Definitely! My chainsaw will most likely be out for bucking. I'll have to take the time to get the wedges out, get them started, then hammer them in. If I use the chainsaw, it's less **** to carry into the woods.


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## Marshy (Jan 1, 2015)

westcoaster90 said:


> Come out with me for a day with your x27. I'll pay for your air fare.


I would love to come see the west coast, it's one of my dreams. I tell my wife I would be a logger if I could earn the same money I do now but that ain't going to happen and student loans are a be'otch.

Ever have the pleasure of splitting hard wood?


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 1, 2015)

Marshy said:


> I would love to come see the west coast, it's one of my dreams. I tell my wife I would be a logger if I could earn the same money I do now but that ain't going to happen and student loans are a be'otch.
> 
> Ever have the pleasure of splitting hard wood?



I have and I am near the west coast. Elm, Black Locust, willow (that stuff splits by just looking at it), one oak (unknown type) I lucked into down twon, and a few others. Bottom line is that the X27 shines on clear grain, non stringy stuff. No much good on knots and strings.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 1, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Definitely! My chainsaw will most likely be out for bucking. I'll have to take the time to get the wedges out, get them started, then hammer them in. If I use the chainsaw, it's less **** to carry into the woods.



You are really straining now. Grab wedge which will be right there, one tap and usually three shots or less. I'll beat your saw every time.

Harry K


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## Ambull01 (Jan 1, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> You are really straining now. Grab wedge which will be right there, one tap and usually three shots or less. I'll beat your saw every time.
> 
> Harry K



That's awesome. Maybe one day we can race. I have too many things to carry as it is. I may try wedge and sledge in my yard one day. Perhaps your way is faster but the saw is easier.


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## lone wolf (Jan 1, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> That's awesome. Maybe one day we can race. I have too many things to carry as it is. I may try wedge and sledge in my yard one day. Perhaps your way is faster but the saw is easier.


It depends on lots of factors. What type wood how many knots etc. He is right in certain straight grained easily split woods yes. Now if say it was 30 inch White Oak or Hickory fuggetaboutit!


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## Ambull01 (Jan 1, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> It depends on lots of factors. What type wood how many knots etc. He ids right in certain straight grained easily split woods yes. Now if say it was 30 inch White Oak or Hickory fuggetaboutit!


Yeah I can see that. My whole goal on scrounges is to use the least amount of energy as possible. That's why I like the Fishers so much. Light and easy to swing. I don't have to worry about smacking the handle either. If I had to wedge and sledge all the white oak I'm getting I would wear my ass out. Still have to hand carry everything, load, unload, then hand split 

Anyway, can I send you a pic of some rounds I found? Think I know what it is but want to verify


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## lone wolf (Jan 1, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Yeah I can see that. My whole goal on scrounges is to use the least amount of energy as possible. That's why I like the Fishers so much. Light and easy to swing. I don't have to worry about smacking the handle either. If I had to wedge and sledge all the white oak I'm getting I would wear my ass out. Still have to hand carry everything, load, unload, then hand split
> 
> Anyway, can I send you a pic of some rounds I found? Think I know what it is but want to verify


Best way to split wood is with 3 people one feeding the logsplitter, the operator then a stacker you can switch to save lower backs as needed.


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## svk (Jan 1, 2015)

There is something rewarding about popping a big round with a sledge and wedge but noodling is damn fun too.


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## lone wolf (Jan 1, 2015)

svk said:


> There is something rewarding about popping a big round with a sledge and wedge but noodling is damn fun too.


Then there is noodling half way through, one guy does this, then the other busts them.


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## svk (Jan 1, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> Then there is noodling half way through, one guy does this, then the other busts them.


Jealous of guys who split with friends. One man show here. Only when I cut small stuff or do fireplace splits I can enlist the kids.


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## Ambull01 (Jan 1, 2015)

svk said:


> There is something rewarding about popping a big round with a sledge and wedge but noodling is damn fun too.


Yep, I do love the sound of a tough round cracking. Sounds like Victory. I'm addicted to noodling though. Maybe if fuel prices go sky high I'll do more wedge and sledge


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 1, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> That's awesome. Maybe one day we can race. I have too many things to carry as it is. I may try wedge and sledge in my yard one day. Perhaps your way is faster but the saw is easier.



Easier for certain. I am coming up on 80 and no longer wedge/sledge in the boonies. Too big to load, NOODLE!

Harry K


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## Ambull01 (Jan 1, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> Easier for certain. I am coming up on 80 and no longer wedge/sledge in the boonies. Too big to load, NOODLE!
> 
> Harry K


Wait a minute, you're almost 80 and still walking in the woods to get firewood!? Damn that's impressive. I hope to be doing that when I'm your age.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 1, 2015)

Ambull went from a pos saw to his makita/dolmar, he is power drunk. I believe he noodles them just so he can see what a real saw is capable of. Who really cares, the guy is getting firewood and having fun doing it.


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## rtrsam (Jan 2, 2015)

Granted this was Doug Fir and not oak or whatever that guy was splitting. I probably swung my mauls fewer times getting a half ton truck load split than the guy in the video did getting one round quartered.

When he was banging on it with the huge maul the round was bouncing around, so he was actually transferring maybe half of the energy to splitting, and the other half into bouncing the round. You also don't get to see how accurately he was lining up his swings with each other, from the angle we saw it looked like he was pretty far off on some of his swings.

I sold wood in High School and a few times when unemployed, and heated a big house with wood only for over thirty years, all splitting with mauls, most of it with the wood handled maul in the picture (8 lb).


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## artbaldoni (Jan 2, 2015)

This, my friends, is why they make chocolate, vanilla and strawberry; something for each ones taste.


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## Ambull01 (Jan 2, 2015)

artbaldoni said:


> This, my friends, is why they make chocolate, vanilla and strawberry; something for each ones taste.



Very true! I wonder if people make threads saying strawberry icecream is a POS?


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## Big_Wood (Jan 2, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Very true! I wonder if people make threads saying strawberry icecream is a POS?



LMAO you mean POP?


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## Ambull01 (Jan 2, 2015)

westcoaster90 said:


> LMAO you mean POP?



What's the second "P" for? Poop, pop, popsicle?


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## Big_Wood (Jan 2, 2015)

POP Piece of Plastic


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## Ambull01 (Jan 2, 2015)

westcoaster90 said:


> POP Piece of Plastic



Oh right lol. Thought someone referred to it as a POS though. It totally is a POP though.


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## Big_Wood (Jan 2, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Oh right lol. Thought someone referred to it as a POS though. It totally is a POP though.



that was me and i stand by it


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## Ambull01 (Jan 2, 2015)

westcoaster90 said:


> that was me and i stand by it



Oh that's right! You and your wood axe handle fetish lol.


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## BeatCJ (Jan 2, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Wait a minute, you're almost 80 and still walking in the woods to get firewood!? Damn that's impressive. I hope to be doing that when I'm your age.


My grandfather did until he was 81. I don't think I ever saw him noodle anything, but he wore out wedges on a regular basis. The man was a BULL! He stopped cutting wood because he switched to propane heat, because the particulates in his house were damaging his lungs. He passed away at 86 as a result of pulmonary fibrosis.

So, moral of the story? If you can see into the firebox of your log burner, replace it. That thing was cracked and leaky for as long as I can remember.


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## Philbert (Jan 2, 2015)

Stopped by a crafts store today. They did not have any stick-on wood grain tape for my Fiskars handles (they did have lots of glittery stuff though!) No stick-on evil eyes for the heads either.

Bummer. Putting on that '_Silvey_' label really helped my Harbor Freight chain grinder.

Maybe just as well. If I set a wood grain handled Fiskars down in the leaves I probably would not find it again.

Philbert


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 2, 2015)

Who said "walking"?? Creeping would be a better descripton. Worst part is bending over to pick up the maul when it falls over. I stop and wonder if throwing a $20 alongside it would make it worth it 

Harry K


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## BeatCJ (Jan 2, 2015)

My dad tells me "getting old ain't for sissies". I wouldn't know, according to my kids, I've always been old. Lucky I got to skip the getting part.

He turned 80 in November, played golf last Monday. His arthritis in his hands hurts worse when it's cold, but you can't stop living. Even at my age, I'm sore every morning.


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## Overclock (Jan 2, 2015)

BeatCJ said:


> I've always been old.



Me too Brother.


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## Overclock (Jan 2, 2015)

westcoaster90 said:


> certainly not. if the fiskars worked better or made the job easier i would be using it. trust me on that one. i'm always looking for ways to make things easier for myself. the fiskars wasn't an epic fail. it just took more energy from me to do the deeds my wood handle axes do better. i still think the only way you guys are gonna know what i'm talking about is to come try split some western hemlock  the title of the thread is "fiskars x27 what a piece of plastic". this is a **** talking thread. if you guys have nothing bad to say about the x27 move along LOL



Classic westcoaster90.


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## CTYank (Jan 3, 2015)

Overclock said:


> Thanks. I'm going to get a second opinion from @CTYank.



In your dreams. You, too, Steve-o (get a life, or a distributorship for your beloved.) IOW, yank me.

Thought mods flushed you, Woodcutter tv/Brush Ape. Let's see how long it takes them this time. Maybe they're short of entertainment?


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 3, 2015)

I ordered one based on the reviews in this thread. Looking forward to putting it to work.


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## muddstopper (Jan 3, 2015)

I think once one learns to roll the axe, maul, sledge, whatever, you will find that the tip speed of the tool will increase resulting in more striking force. Rolling the hammer, all it takes is letting the hammer swing from in front of you and as it passes your legs, you flip your wrist and start the forward motion. This takes advantage of the momentium of the hammer and increases the speed as the hammer passes overhead, In other words, the hammer isnt starting from a dead stop and trying to accellerate but is instead is already moving in the proper direction. I looked for a video of track men swinging a tenspeed driving spikes, but this is the best I came up with.


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## H-Ranch (Jan 3, 2015)

CTYank said:


> In your dreams. You, too, Steve-o (get a life, or a distributorship for your beloved.) IOW, yank me.


Hey - what did I do to deserve a comment like that? And that is not PG-rated or appropriate for this kind of family forum.

If you're referring to someone else there is now a function on the forum to use the "at" sign in front of the user name so they are identified and flagged. Perhaps you could learn how to use it to prevent future misunderstandings. I didn't have to in this case since I'm replying to your post directly and it's abundantly clear.


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## svk (Jan 3, 2015)

H-Ranch said:


> Hey - what did I do to deserve a comment like that? And that is not PG-rated or appropriate for this kind of family forum.
> 
> If you're referring to someone else there is now a function on the forum to use the "at" sign in front of the user name so they are identified and flagged. Perhaps you could learn how to use it to prevent future misunderstandings. I didn't have to in this case since I'm replying to your post directly and it's abundantly clear.


I believe that one was meant for me. But you're right it's not appropriate for someone to talk like that on here. 

For some reason "John" prefers to call people by their first name rather than @ username. Go through the threads where he chastised @MechanicMatt and others for calling him by his username. 

Someone is still a little cranky that their beloved Council Tool maul got shut down by a piece of plastic in the hands of multiple AS members, hence the attacks and bad language.


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## Deleted member 116684 (Jan 3, 2015)

I like my fiskars x27, but sometimes on a big round it can be a little bit too light. That being said, it works fine on everything else. I did split a cord of sweet gum with it last year and that was kinda no fun.I keep it sharp and it is easier on my elbows than an eight pound maul.


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## zogger (Jan 3, 2015)

inmansc said:


> I like my fiskars x27, but sometimes on a big round it can be a little bit too light. That being said, it works fine on everything else. I did split a cord of sweet gum with it last year and that was kinda no fun.I keep it sharp and it is easier on my elbows than an eight pound maul.



If you did a whole cord of sweetgum with one, you get a cyber fiskars merit badge!


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## Lignator (Jan 3, 2015)

love my fiskars, but still use hydraulics. i have a sotz maul, can't image a 30lb beast.....


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## muddstopper (Jan 4, 2015)

My splitter does most of the work around here. Occasionally, I'll dig out the old go-devil. I like the 8lb better than the 6lb. Had a 10lb'er one once, dont know where it ended up. With the 6lb, it seemed like I would beat myself to death on some tuff stuff, where as the 10lb one just plain wore me out swinging it, the 8lb is in the middle and seems to fit my comfort zone. I have drove many a spike with a 10speed spike maul, When I was younger we would have friendly spike driving competitions with side bets. I won a few and lost a few, and the boss just laughed at us because he was getting the work done while we where playing. I used to try swing a hammer in both hands at the same time, could do it to some extent, but to many bruised shins to get really good at it. Dad had a 16lb sledge we used to split locust post with, that thing was a killer to swing, but my brother and I split enought post to fence in 70 acres one summer. No wonder my shoulders and elbows hurt all the time.


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## Ambull01 (Jan 4, 2015)

inmansc said:


> I like my fiskars x27, but sometimes on a big round it can be a little bit too light. That being said, it works fine on everything else. I did split a cord of sweet gum with it last year and that was kinda no fun.I keep it sharp and it is easier on my elbows than an eight pound maul.



What!? You split of cord of sweetgum!? You's a bad dude.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 4, 2015)

I could be wrong, but my feeling is the Fiskars is good only for straight grained wood. It's just too light and short handled. A 6# maul wood out split it 2-1.
Of course I've never used one and won't reduce myself to doing so.


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## Philbert (Jan 4, 2015)

Gypo Logger said:


> I could be wrong, but my feeling is the Fiskars is good only for straight grained wood. It's just too light and short handled. A 6# maul wood out split it 2-1.
> Of course I've never used one and won't reduce myself to doing so.View attachment 391942


Good to keep an open mind about it!

Philbert


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 4, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Good to keep an open mind about it!
> 
> Philbert


You're right I may be wrong, but I can't see using a splitting device wth a handle less than 36" just to dangerous and limited leverage.
Should the young guy in the vid have at least got a few pieces off that block curly or not?


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 4, 2015)

Speaking of wood you guys should see how cold it is here! Minus 39F!
Staying warm feeding two stoves to heat 300 sq.ft.


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## Philbert (Jan 4, 2015)

Gypo Logger said:


> Should the young guy in the vid have at least got a few pieces off that block curly or not?


He wasn't using it right. I have no problem with someone liking one tool more than another, and I have no stock in Fiskars. But hitting those monster rounds in the center with any splitting tool is not the right way to go. Just 'cause he got them to split eventually, does not mean that it was a good technique. Different tools for different tasks, but they still have to be used correctly to get good results.

That said, as I mentioned before, I will bet that there are guys who could reduce those rounds to stove wood using a Fiskars, even though I would not want to do it that way.

Best thing would be to try one side-by-side with what you normally use, in the type(s) of wood you normally split. Might work for you, might not. Try one at a GTG, or buy one from a store with a 'satisfaction guaranteed' return policy for low risk.

Philbert

(Weather here in Central Minnesota is only a few digits below zero, but the wind chill is pretty significant. Sun is out, so it is a cheerful cold!).


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 4, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Good to keep an open mind about it!
> 
> Philbert



Nothing like voicing an opinion on something that was never tried!! 

Harry K


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## firebrick43 (Jan 4, 2015)

Gypo Logger said:


> You're right I may be wrong, but I can't see using a splitting device wth a handle less than 36" just to dangerous and limited leverage.
> Should the young guy in the vid have at least got a few pieces off that block curly or not?




Um, an x27 has a 36" handle. I have a 8lb snow Neely maul, a 6 lb Japanese maul(brand unknown but everyone that has handled it liked it, used to be my favorite) and an x27. Unless I have to drive wedges I use the x27 now. I does pretty good in most woods. Other day when cutting up a large sugar maple I ran out of gas on the saw. A couple of the 24" branches I had cut most of the way thru but couldn't roll the over to finish until other pieces where split and out of the way. When I got down to these last few pieces the neighbor chuckled and said we would have to come back later for them(no gas for the saw). Pulled out the x27 and 2 mins later had half a dozen rounds to finish splitting. It still functions somewhat as an axe. If I had the just the maul I would of had to come back. 

Also broke one maul handle a year normally. Haven't broke the handle yet. Also hate fiberglass handles due to more shock, yet the Fiskars Handle feels just as good as a wood one.


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 4, 2015)

firebrick43 said:


> Um, an x27 has a 36" handle. I have a 8lb snow Neely maul, a 6 lb Japanese maul(brand unknown but everyone that has handled it liked it, used to be my favorite) and an x27. Unless I have to drive wedges I use the x27 now. I does pretty good in most woods. Other day when cutting up a large sugar maple I ran out of gas on the saw. A couple of the 24" branches I had cut most of the way thru but couldn't roll the over to finish until other pieces where split and out of the way. When I got down to these last few pieces the neighbor chuckled and said we would have to come back later for them(no gas for the saw). Pulled out the x27 and 2 mins later had half a dozen rounds to finish splitting. It still functions somewhat as an axe. If I had the just the maul I would of had to come back.
> 
> Also broke one maul handle a year normally. Haven't broke the handle yet. Also hate fiberglass handles due to more shock, yet the Fiskars Handle feels just as good as a wood one.


Sorry, didn't know they came with a 36"
I'll go crawl back under my rock. Lol


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## Philbert (Jan 4, 2015)

firebrick43 said:


> Pulled out the x27 and 2 mins later had half a dozen rounds to finish splitting. It still functions somewhat as an axe.



I have a couple of the Fiskars chopping axes. I use them for limbing smaller branches and driving plastic wedges. Light and easy to carry (28" handle?). I am sure that I could also split some smaller stuff with them.

Philbert


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## Chris-PA (Jan 4, 2015)

lone wolf said:


> It depends on lots of factors. What type wood how many knots etc. He is right in certain straight grained easily split woods yes. Now if say it was 30 inch White Oak or Hickory fuggetaboutit!


I was breaking up 34" white oak rounds yesterday. About half broke with a few swings of my Chopper1 axe, and the rest went with wedges and the 8lb maul. A couple got noodled as they had knots/twisted grain and would have ruined my stacks!

Noodling is fun but slower, and it was good to get out and get exercise. I don't get enough this time of year and I lose my strength so fast it seems.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 4, 2015)

Gypo, I love my fiskars, but on the other hand I've seen pics of your wood pile. What ever your doing works for you.


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## hamish (Jan 4, 2015)

Gypo Logger said:


> Speaking of wood you guys should see how cold it is here! Minus 39F!
> Staying warm feeding two stoves to heat 300 sq.ft.


Do whatever you have to, to keep your beer from freezing!


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## svk (Jan 4, 2015)

The thing I just don't understand is why a few people possess such hatred for the Fiskars. If it doesn't work as well for you or the types of wood you split, that's fine. But clearly it works really well for a lot of people.


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## mn woodcutter (Jan 4, 2015)

I think lots of the "hatred" that people show towards the fiskars is based on expectations.


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## svk (Jan 4, 2015)

mn woodcutter said:


> I think lots of the "hatred" that people show towards the fiskars is based on expectations.


Good point. 

I read all of the reviews on here and finally ordered one for myself. Was pleasantly surprised with my own results. Due to the weight and handling it made hand splitting enjoyable. 

I do think it's funny how many people get a x27 and immediately attack their "noodle pile" with mixed results. It's no secret that a *good* maul will work better than a Fiskars in tough wood. But nobody I know can swing a maul effectively for several hours. You can with a Fiskars.


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## Philbert (Jan 4, 2015)

svk said:


> I do think it's funny how many people get a x27 and immediately attack their "noodle pile" with mixed results.


My issue with that is that there is a reason why those rounds are in a 'noodle' or 'fugly' pile to begin with - they did not want to hand split them with their exiting maul! If you want to compare tools, use them in similar wood. At least 'Thor' did that in the initial video, even if neither tool was optimal for the task!

Philbert


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## svk (Jan 4, 2015)

Also worth noting that the most vocal opponent of the Fiskars on the whole site has swung one less than a dozen times.....


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## Chris-PA (Jan 4, 2015)

mn woodcutter said:


> I think lots of the "hatred" that people show towards the fiskars is based on expectations.


And I think a lot of that is from people who didn't split with a axe, but were used to a maul or somesuch. It takes a different technique. 

To me the X27 is not significantly different from the axes I usually use, and I suspect once the coating wears off it loses much of that difference. It's OK, but I like my wooded handles better.


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## Deleted member 116684 (Jan 4, 2015)

Gypo Logger said:


> Speaking of wood you guys should see how cold it is here! Minus 39F!
> Staying warm feeding two stoves to heat 300 sq.ft.


holy crap thats cold


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## svk (Jan 4, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> And I think a lot of that is from people who didn't split with a axe, but were used to a maul or somesuch. It takes a different technique.
> 
> To me the X27 is not significantly different from the axes I usually use, and I suspect once the coating wears off it loses much of that difference. It's OK, but I like my wooded handles better.


The coating is long gone on mine, never noticed a difference. If it gets into the wood deep enough to where the coating would make a difference, the piece is usually already split. 

I like the @benp theory: If it doesn't show signs of splitting in 5 hits, it gets noodled.


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## svk (Jan 4, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> It takes a different technique.


This statement gives me a laugh as this was so angrily debated a few threads back with the haters vehemently stating there was no difference in technique.


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## Freakingstang (Jan 4, 2015)

Gypo Logger said:


> Sorry, didn't know they came with a 36"
> I'll go crawl back under my rock. Lol



Hey John, the X25 is 27 or 28".. I bought that one first and about chopped my leg off a couple of times. I split like you do, chop up the tree and stand the rounds up and start cracking... the X25 is meant to be used with a splitting block I think. you know me, I'm a skinny little chit at 5'9". I prefer the X27 (same head, but 36" handle. It works extremely well if you learn to use it. If you just try to beat it like a maul, you'll likely not like it. I swung a 16lb monster maul for years and a 6lb maul that was dads. I still use the maul and edges on some of that nasty elm, but 98% of my splitting comes from the X27 nowadays. I like it so well, that I bought a spare when tractor supply clearanced them out a few years ago. Sold the X25 to my brother since he's a sawed of chit. Some love the fiskars, some hate them. I love mine, Although, I got a nice 5lb gransfor Bruk felling head from the scrap yard a few weeks back and looking forward to making it work. I want to try that husqvarna splitting axe, if they made one that wasn't for midgets.


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## gunnusmc03 (Jan 4, 2015)

When using axes with shorter handles such as the x25 (when ground splitting) you need to bend your knees as you swing down. This prevents the axe head from breaking the horizontal plane.


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## Freakingstang (Jan 4, 2015)

This guy has the best swing I've ever seen.. very effective on red oak... skip to 5:15 to see the good stuff. Although video is funny as it is worth watching.


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## Freakingstang (Jan 4, 2015)

gunnusmc03 said:


> When using axes with shorter handles such as the x25 (when ground splitting) you need to bend your knees as you swing down. This prevents the axe head from breaking the horizontal plane.



bend you knees and break your wrists, that's part of the effectiveness and the "technique" with the fiskars. breaking of the wrists right before impact increases head speed significantly and is what makes it effective in all the stringy and knotty stuff that every here claims it sucks in. That's because they are swinging it like a maul. now, break those wrists with a short handle and when it explodes through the round its headed right for your ankle/shin if if are taller than a midget. if you swing it like a home run HIYAHH swing, then it will be fine, as you aren't doing anything right with the technique that makes it work. if you are doing the HEMAN smack, again like a maul, on a splitting block, you don't have to worry about the axe head breaking the plane and coming at you, or breaking the wood for that matter. a couple light easy swings will prevail when the six or seven HIYAH's just bounce or stick.


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## Jetterbug (Jan 5, 2015)

Freakingstang said:


> This guy has the best swing I've ever seen.. very effective on red oak... skip to 5:15 to see the good stuff. Although video is funny as it is worth watching.



Nice! I do think tho, with that wind up, you either need some wood chips under foot, or please get off the ice while splitting


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 5, 2015)

mn woodcutter said:


> I think lots of the "hatred" that people show towards the fiskars is based on expectations.



Yep, they see all the good reports and somehow get the idea that it will replace all the other splitting tools (maul, wedge/sledge) In reality it is and _additional_ splitting tool although in my case it has replaced the maul in a good 60% of the instances it would have been used in the past.

Harry K


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 5, 2015)

Freakingstang said:


> This guy has the best swing I've ever seen.. very effective on red oak... skip to 5:15 to see the good stuff. Although video is funny as it is worth watching.



Lol, I watched the whole vid. Funny and entertaining. That guys a killer and sure is strong.


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## Jake Wise (Jan 5, 2015)

I just bought an x27 and I am very impressed. Over the weekend I put up a little less than a cord of white oak. Dad ran the saw while I split. I cut 30" lengths so this was a real test of the the thing and like I said I was impressed. Did it split every piece in one hit,no. But, I swung it all afternoon 2 days in a row and I can still move. Some of the wood got wedged, but for the most part if the x27 didn't get it to split then the maul wouldn't do much better and it was faster to skip the maul and go for the wedges. It will be my primary tool. 

One other thing I noticed on the fiskars was it was easy to sharpen, which I like. I have heard people on here bad mouth them because of their supposed poor metallurgy, but I don't thing those people have any idea what their talking about. Just because something is made of soft metal doesn't mean it is poor metal, it means that it is soft metal. The tool is obviously designed to be kept sharp, so would you rather have a tool you have take home to the bench grinder or one you can spend 3 minutes sharpening on a stone and then go back to work?


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## benp (Jan 5, 2015)

Freakingstang said:


> This guy has the best swing I've ever seen.. very effective on red oak... skip to 5:15 to see the good stuff. Although video is funny as it is worth watching.




I tell you what,

I applaud the enthusiasm of this guy, the Thor's Hammer guy, and the other one in a video splitting by his pickup.

These guys go after it, they don't quit.

The Zombies show up, I want to be in their group.

Well, the last guy that gingerly balanced the 200lb round on the scale, I'd want to be on his right.

Damn that's a hell of a swing with that maul.


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## zogger (Jan 5, 2015)

Freakingstang said:


> This guy has the best swing I've ever seen.. very effective on red oak... skip to 5:15 to see the good stuff. Although video is funny as it is worth watching.




If he were to put an edge on that AOS it would work better. You can see it is pretty dull. His roundhouse swing is cool. No way I could pick up a round like he did, have to bust it in quarters in the woods or noodle it.

Looks like my chev bogger. I have a block heater though, and it is the diesel.


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## lone wolf (Jan 5, 2015)

Freakingstang said:


> This guy has the best swing I've ever seen.. very effective on red oak... skip to 5:15 to see the good stuff. Although video is funny as it is worth watching.



Yup!


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## Upidstay (Jan 5, 2015)

I love my X27. Worth every nickel. Does it split as well as a 30lb maul?? How the heck would I know? I'm not dumb enough to try a 30 lb-er. I like my back.

What it DOES do is split as well as my 12lb maul, but it only weighs 6lbs. I loaned it to three friends, they all bought their own after raving about it. The only one that didn't bought an X25 instead because he's only 5'6. I know a lady who bought one too. Her husband has a bad back, so she does the splitting. She loves it. Talked to her at a local hardware store and talked her into it. Saw her a month later and she was ready to kiss me she was so happy.

Will it split 40" oak rounds? No. Duh. That's why I have a chain saw, maul, etc.


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## Idahonative (Jan 5, 2015)

svk said:


> The thing I just don't understand is why a few people possess such hatred for the Fiskars. If it doesn't work as well for you or the types of wood you split, that's fine. But clearly it works really well for a lot of people.



The "hatred" is a very small percentage and I think most of those are the traditionalists who just don't like anything that doesn't have a wood handle. They would turn their noses up at any tool that had a synthetic handle. I agree with you, "it clearly works well for a lot of people." I dug up a thread from September of last year on this subject:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-husqvarna-hand-tools.262491/page-2

Read my post (#40). At that time, the x27 had 1,602 five star reviews on Amazon. It now has 1,937. Like I said then, you have to take reviews with a grain of salt but these are overwhelming numbers....numbers that can't be ignored. Oh, and the price is going up. Costs $48 four months ago. Costs $54.99 now (15% increase).


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## svk (Jan 5, 2015)

Upidstay said:


> I love my X27. Worth every nickel.
> 
> I loaned it to three friends, they all bought their own after raving about it. The only one that didn't bought an X25 instead because he's only 5'6. I know a lady who bought one too. Her husband has a bad back, so she does the splitting. She loves it. Talked to her at a local hardware store and talked her into it. Saw her a month later and she was ready to kiss me she was so happy.



The first weekend that I had my Fiskars I split up a part of a big aspen and an entire big birch. My best friend, who is also the cheapest person I know tried it. He liked it so much he bought one two days later. This guy won't spend an extra nickel on anything yet he dropped 45 bones on one basically immediately. That's a very strong statement at least to me.


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## svk (Jan 5, 2015)

Idahonative said:


> The "hatred" is a very small percentage and I think most of those are the traditionalists who just don't like anything that doesn't have a wood handle. They would turn their noses up at any tool that had a synthetic handle. I agree with you, "it clearly works well for a lot of people." I dug up a thread from September of last year on this subject:
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-husqvarna-hand-tools.262491/page-2
> 
> Read my post (#40). At that time, the x27 had 1,602 five star reviews on Amazon. It now has 1,937. Like I said then, you have to take reviews with a grain of salt but these are overwhelming numbers....numbers that can't be ignored. Oh, and the price is going up. Costs $48 four months ago. Costs $54.99 now (15% increase).


LMAO I remember that thread well. Probably not my or Spike's finest hour on here LOL


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 5, 2015)

Jake Wise said:


> I just bought an x27 and I am very impressed. Over the weekend I put up a little less than a cord of white oak. Dad ran the saw while I split. I cut 30" lengths so this was a real test of the the thing and like I said I was impressed. Did it split every piece in one hit,no. But, I swung it all afternoon 2 days in a row and I can still move. Some of the wood got wedged, but for the most part if the x27 didn't get it to split then the maul wouldn't do much better and it was faster to skip the maul and go for the wedges. It will be my primary tool.
> 
> One other thing I noticed on the fiskars was it was easy to sharpen, which I like. I have heard people on here bad mouth them because of their supposed poor metallurgy, but I don't thing those people have any idea what their talking about. Just because something is made of soft metal doesn't mean it is poor metal, it means that it is soft metal. The tool is obviously designed to be kept sharp, so would you rather have a tool you have take home to the bench grinder or one you can spend 3 minutes sharpening on a stone and then go back to work?



Fully agree. It is designed by Swedes and tested/modified/retested, etc. over at least 50 years. Guess those guys think Swedes don't know what they are doing . Show me a knife, ax, whatever made out of really hard metal and I will show you an item that also 'really hard' to resharpen.

Harry K


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## svk (Jan 5, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> Fully agree. It is designed by Swedes and tested/modified/retested, etc. over at least 50 years. Guess those guys think Swedes don't know what they are doing . Show me a knife, ax, whatever made out of really hard metal and I will show you an item that also 'really hard' to resharpen.
> 
> Harry K


Swedes????

Finns!


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 5, 2015)

I think a lot of the negative post are reaction to the outrageous posts about how great they are.
They do work well on some wood, but are no better than most axes of the same weight.
What I don't understand is why folks don't seem to notice the terrible vibrations from the handle, and the claims of "balance". A lighter handle in relation to head weight is no advantage, except in the minds of some users.
For most of the ground work I do, I wear 5 pound weights on my wrists and 10 pound ankle weights and that includes splitting wood. Adding three to five pounds to the head of a splitting tool does not decrease the speed of my strikes. For my evaluation of any tool I don't use the wrist weights.
In fairness, most of my splitting mauls and axes have a total length of 42 inches, which adds quite a bit to the speed of my normal strikes.
I have used the spike driver swing of the young man in the video, in time he may learn a better recovery and be able to deliver strikes in quicker sucession. I have also used the up and down strike many seem to prefer, but mostly use something sorta in between.
The metal is of little importance in a splitting tool that is not also used for chopping or striking wedges.
That it is a single use tool reduces the chances of it going to the woods with me.
I almost never noodle rounds to make firewood; most fisker lovers seem to noodle often.


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## Philbert (Jan 5, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> A lighter handle in relation to head weight is no advantage, except in the minds of some users.


That's not correct at all. 

The total weight of the tool is reduced, for the same size/weight head, which means less weight lifted cumulatively.
The force of the tool is focused at the 'point of operation' - a heavier handle gets you nothing where the edge hits the wood.
Weight at the end of the handle aids in developing momentum - think about swinging a ball at the end of a rope versus swinging a stick of the same total weight: more momentum at the ball than at the end of the stick.



woodchuck357 said:


> In fairness, most of my splitting mauls and axes have a total length of 42 inches, which adds quite a bit to the speed of my normal strikes.


You need to compare mauls with the same length handles. I don't know of a 42" Fiskars, but I am sure that you can find a 36" axe with a similar weight head.

Philbert


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## mn woodcutter (Jan 5, 2015)

This is a dead horse


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## Idahonative (Jan 5, 2015)

svk said:


> LMAO I remember that thread well. Probably not my or Spike's finest hour on here LOL



Well I will agree with you that it wasn't Spike's finest hour. I never could understand how a dealer would start a thread on the new Husky splitting axe and then dig his heels in against the Fiskars. Even though there is a 99.9% chance that the Husky's head was made by Fiskars. He sold both brands but was arguing strongly against the Fiskars. Does it come down to what name is printed on the handle? Maybe more profit margin on one vs. the other? Who knows. Made no sense then...makes no sense now.


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## svk (Jan 5, 2015)

Idahonative said:


> Well I will agree with you that it wasn't Spike's finest hour. I never could understand how a dealer would start a thread on the new Husky splitting axe and then dig his heels in against the Fiskars. Even though there is a 99.9% chance that the Husky's head was made by Fiskars. He sold both brands but was arguing strongly against the Fiskars. Does it come down to what name is printed on the handle? Maybe more profit margin on one vs. the other? Who knows. Made no sense then...makes no sense now.


Well part of it was me goading him on also LOL. We've since solved our differences.


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## Jake Wise (Jan 5, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> .
> The metal is of little importance in a splitting tool that is not also used for chopping or striking wedges.



That is a ridiculous statement, of course it matters. If you hit a rock can you resharpen the tool without the use of a bench grinder. If you hit a piece of frozen wood will it fold over your edge. For people that have to split wood for more than just exercise a tool that maintains and edge through use and can be touched up quickly and easily is of great importance.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 5, 2015)

When comparing, I try to use tools as much alike as possible, ezcept for the features being evaluated.
The difference in weight of the fiskers handle and a wood haft of the same length is only 8 to 10 ounces.
I used an original 4 pound collins rafting pattern ax with an over all length of 35 1/2 inches. They split about the same but the collins was much better for limbing. 
The 4 pound double bit keen cutter chops and splits better than either of the axes, but is too different for a good comparison.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 5, 2015)

Philbert said:


> The total weight of the tool is reduced, for the same size/weight head, which means less weight lifted cumulatively.
> The force of the tool is focused at the 'point of operation' - a heavier handle gets you nothing where the edge hits the wood.
> Weight at the end of the handle aids in developing momentum - think about swinging a ball at the end of a rope versus swinging a stick of the same total weight: more momentum at the ball than at the end of the stick.


While technically true I think you overplay this argument. The difference in mass of the X27 handle vs. a slightly heavier one of my hickory handles is small, and some of it is out by the tool head anyway. The difference in energy required to lift it is insignificant. When a tool like a splitting axe hits the wood, very little of the kinetic energy stored in it came from just lifting it and letting it fall (which is what some users of very heavy mauls are doing) - most of it came from your muscles swinging it down fast.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 5, 2015)

Jake Wise said:


> That is a ridiculous statement, of course it matters. If you hit a rock can you resharpen the tool without the use of a bench grinder. If you hit a piece of frozen wood will it fold over your edge. For people that have to split wood for more than just exercise a tool that maintains and edge through use and can be touched up quickly and easily is of great importance.


I never hit rocks, so that is not a consideration. Frozen wood splits easier, but if the edge folds over you must be using a copper ax, move up to bronze if you aren't ready to get a steel one. I should have said the quality of the steel is of little importance.


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## 1 stihl nut (Jan 5, 2015)

If you don't mind, I'd like to take this conversation down to a simpler level and display my ignorance by means of a question:

I was in a store today that carries a fiskars axe. It was a splitting axe, but it didn't say x27 on it. It said the handle was 28". I was surprised the handle seemed like totally hollow plastic. It was priced at $49. Would this likely be the x27 ?

The head looked the same as the pictures of the x27 s that I've seen.
also I mean the tag/stickers on it didn't say x27.


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## svk (Jan 5, 2015)

1 stihl nut said:


> If you don't mind, I'd like to take this conversation down to a simpler level and display my ignorance by means of a question:
> 
> I was in a store today that carries a fiskars axe. It was a splitting axe, but it didn't say x27 on it. It said the handle was 28". I was surprised the handle seemed like totally hollow plastic. It was priced at $49. Would this likely be the x27 ?
> 
> The head looked the same as the pictures of the x27 s that I've seen.


X25, the little brother.


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## artbaldoni (Jan 5, 2015)




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## 1 stihl nut (Jan 5, 2015)

Thanks. What are the differences between the two?

I'm aware of the x25 but I would have figured it should have said what model it was somewhere. Maybe I didn't look close enough.


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## 1 stihl nut (Jan 5, 2015)

artbaldoni said:


> View attachment 392243


The hell you say.


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## svk (Jan 5, 2015)

1 stihl nut said:


> Thanks. What are the differences between the two?
> 
> I'm aware of the x25 but I would have figured it should have said what model it was somewhere. Maybe I didn't look close enough.


Head is smaller/lighter and as mentioned handle is shorter. For folks of smaller stature or more general purpose work rather than dedicated splitter.


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## 1 stihl nut (Jan 5, 2015)

Thanks again. That's what I thought. 

Carry on with the previously interrupted intelligent conversation.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 5, 2015)

One really good thing about the x27 is the neighbor kids left it laying out by the wood pile several days ago and the almost constant wet weather had almost no effect on it. I would have been upset if a wood hafted tool had suffered the same fate.
With the low temps of the last couple of days I'm glad it was left laying on its side. If they had left the handle sticking up it may have filled with rainwater and busted when the water froze.


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## Philbert (Jan 5, 2015)

1 stihl nut said:


> Thanks. What are the differences between the two?


Here is a comparison I did a few years back - it was actually a predecessor to the X25 - just called the splitting maul or something like that.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-28-and-36-side-by-side-comaprison.170817/

Philbert


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## Jake Wise (Jan 5, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> I never hit rocks, so that is not a consideration. Frozen wood splits easier, but if the edge folds over you must be using a copper ax, move up to bronze if you aren't ready to get a steel one. I should have said the quality of the steel is of little importance.


I split where I cut so the rock thing is a consideration for me. I don't have a copper ax I was just trying to think of an extreme. I would argue that the ability to sharpen still matters on a splitting ax because as with any bladed tool it will dull with normal use. Since the splitting ax works best sharp I want to be able to hit it with my sharpening stone every once in a while to keep it performing at its peak.


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## svk (Jan 5, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Here is a comparison I did a few years back - it was actually a predecessor to the X25 - just called the splitting maul or something like that.
> http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-28-and-36-side-by-side-comaprison.170817/
> 
> Philbert


Great thread. 

Interesting to see the different members that were active a few years back, the place sure has turned over through the years.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 5, 2015)

Just a thought, in my experience harder steel (in the range of splitting tools) is eaaiser to sharpen than the softer ones. The edge comes off clean where softer works up a wire edge that bends back and forth as you work one side then the other. The fisker sharpening tool scrapes metal off and is the best tool for their ax and cheap kitchen knives.


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## gunnusmc03 (Jan 5, 2015)

The fiskars retains it's edge and durability quite a bit better after a few sharpenings.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 6, 2015)

svk said:


> Swedes????
> 
> Finns!



They all look alike to me 

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 6, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> I think a lot of the negative post are reaction to the outrageous posts about how great they are.
> They do work well on some wood, but are no better than most axes of the same weight.
> What I don't understand is why folks don't seem to notice the terrible vibrations from the handle, and the claims of "balance". A lighter handle in relation to head weight is no advantage, except in the minds of some users.
> For most of the ground work I do, I wear 5 pound weights on my wrists and 10 pound ankle weights and that includes splitting wood. Adding three to five pounds to the head of a splitting tool does not decrease the speed of my strikes. For my evaluation of any tool I don't use the wrist weights.
> ...



I've been wondering about the reports of vibration. I have been trying to detect it. No luck, I don't feel anything more than I would with a wood handle, possibly even less.
Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 6, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> One really good thing about the x27 is the neighbor kids left it laying out by the wood pile several days ago and the almost constant wet weather had almost no effect on it. I would have been upset if a wood hafted tool had suffered the same fate.
> With the low temps of the last couple of days I'm glad it was left laying on its side. If they had left the handle sticking up it may have filled with rainwater and busted when the water froze.



I leave mine out at the wood pile rain or shine. I do hang it upside down after my first lesson when I left it standing up during a rain, picked it up to use it and got a shower.

Harry K


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## svk (Jan 6, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> They all look alike to me
> 
> Harry K


The two are about as similar as a Frenchman and a German


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## Ambull01 (Jan 6, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> I leave mine out at the wood pile rain or shine. I do hang it upside down after my first lesson when I left it standing up during a rain, picked it up to use it and got a shower.
> 
> Harry K



Left my X27 outside overnight while it was raining. There was some surface rust on the head. It doesn't rust on you? Jeez, I hope it was rust. My dog likes the challenge of crapping on upright things.


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## svk (Jan 6, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Left my X27 outside overnight while it was raining. There was some surface rust on the head. It doesn't rust on you? Jeez, I hope it was rust. My dog likes the challenge of crapping on upright things.


Lmfao. Our old dog used to do that. He'd walk up a snowbank backwards and let it rip. Of course the turds would all roll by him as he stood there. If there wasn't a snowbank he'd use whatever was available; shrubs, branches, etc. 

Rust won't hurt an axe unless its a Mueller or Wetterlings.


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## Jake Wise (Jan 6, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> Just a thought, in my experience harder steel (in the range of splitting tools) is eaaiser to sharpen than the softer ones. The edge comes off clean where softer works up a wire edge that bends back and forth as you work one side then the other. The fisker sharpening tool scrapes metal off and is the best tool for their ax and cheap kitchen knives.



I looked at their sharpener and I didn't like it. I even tried it out and did Rural King the favor of sharpening one of their X25s. I like Mora knives, and they are another fine Finnish product at a good price, because just like the fiskars they have a wide single bevel leading to the cutting edge. When you sharpen one you sharpen across that entire bevel to maintain the correct angle on the blade. The cheap sharpener that fiskars offers just does the very leading edge, where as I use a stone to do the whole thing. To be fair though if you don't hit rocks or use the same ax for the next 20 years it may not make a difference.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 6, 2015)

No rust on mine and it hasn't been shedded since new about 5 years ago.

Put in time on the woodpile and busted up a dozen big rounds - that was a bet less than I was doing last fall. Not bad so maybe I can get back at least some of the winter's loss.

Plans took a drastic change today. Wx warmed up to well over freezing, snow all gone. Figured I would go out and knock down a big brushy Willow the farmer wants disappeared. Top will land in a wheat field. I thought the field would dried out enough by then. Nope. I've been meaning to get out in the field behind my lot and try for a picture of my horde. Found out that just standing out there I was sinking into mud. Won't be much better until all the frost is gone. At least the wx is supposed to stay mostly dry for the next week so I can keep working at that wood pile.

The horde:







The pile right by the camera is about 20 cord of Black Locust, rest of the piles are also Black Locust with about 8 cord of Willow scattered aroud. Somewhere around 80-90 cord total. Wood that I won't live long enough to burn.

Harry K


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## brenndatomu (Jan 6, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> The pile right by the camera is about 20 cord of Black Locust, rest of the piles are also Black Locust with about 8 cord of Willow scattered aroud. Somewhere around 80-90 cord total. _Wood that I won't live long enough to burn._


You have any wood burning kin? Somebody is gon be a firewood baron when you gone!


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## spydahead (Jan 6, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Left my X27 outside overnight while it was raining. There was some surface rust on the head. It doesn't rust on you? Jeez, I hope it was rust. My dog likes the challenge of crapping on upright things.


Wow, I thought I had the only dog that did that.


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## Philbert (Jan 6, 2015)

*#cant'-wait-to-try-it!
*
Really stoked! Added some veneer to my Fiskars' plastic handle (beech? butternut?). _REAL_ wood. This might be bigger than the Piltz sprocket! I expect my performance to double at least.
_(But I'm 'gonna be really p.o.'d if I get splinters. . . . )





_
Philbert


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## svk (Jan 6, 2015)

Philbert said:


> *#cant'-wait-to-try-it!
> *
> Really stoked! Added some veneer to my Fiskars' plastic handle (beech? butternut?). _REAL_ wood. This might be bigger than the Piltz sprocket! I expect my performance to double at least.
> _(But I'm 'gonna be really p.o.'d if I get splinters. . . . )
> ...


Dude that is awesome. Best post of 2015.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 6, 2015)

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. You mr Philbert, you crack me up sir.


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## benp (Jan 6, 2015)

Philbert said:


> *#cant'-wait-to-try-it!
> *
> Really stoked! Added some veneer to my Fiskars' plastic handle (beech? butternut?). _REAL_ wood. This might be bigger than the Piltz sprocket! I expect my performance to double at least.
> _(But I'm 'gonna be really p.o.'d if I get splinters. . . . )
> ...








I like the cut of your jib Philbert.

Well played....well played.

I hope the grain is going north south on that.


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## Ambull01 (Jan 6, 2015)

Philbert said:


> *#cant'-wait-to-try-it!
> *
> Really stoked! Added some veneer to my Fiskars' plastic handle (beech? butternut?). _REAL_ wood. This might be bigger than the Piltz sprocket! I expect my performance to double at least.
> _(But I'm 'gonna be really p.o.'d if I get splinters. . . . )
> ...



For some reason, Clark Griswold popped into my mind looking at that hideous thing. Looks just like their station wagon.


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## Ronaldo (Jan 6, 2015)

I like it!!!!!


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 6, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> You have any wood burning kin? Somebody is gon be a firewood baron when you gone!



I screwed up, that post was meant to go in the "this doesn't bode well" thread. 

About half of that was done with the Fiskars. A bunch was already in before I bought one. People keep telling me to quit cutting but that 'horde' is what has kept me going all these long years. Gonna have to give it up one of these years. I fell today and had trouble getting back up. Old age ain't any fun.

Harry K


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## zogger (Jan 6, 2015)

That's some funny stuff Philbert!

Now...add a nitrous pulse jet to improve head swing speed, with a pushbutton

The windup, the swing...hit the button...WHAMMO, 1,000 mph...that round is gonna split!!!


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## Philbert (Jan 6, 2015)

Maybe dimples on the blade: like a golf ball?

Philbert


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 6, 2015)

Now your thinking!


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## zogger (Jan 6, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Maybe dimples on the blade: like a golf ball?
> 
> Philbert



Philbert's axe speed challenge! 

Of course now you'll need a wind tunnel, radar speed gun, etc...


----------



## Philbert (Jan 6, 2015)

I'll get a Government grant . . . .

Philbert


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## svk (Jan 6, 2015)

Philbert said:


> I'll get a Government grant . . . .
> 
> Philbert


Next I want to see a full wrapped wood grain Fiskars with faux chrome over strike guard.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 7, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> No rust on mine and it hasn't been shedded since new about 5 years ago.
> 
> Put in time on the woodpile and busted up a dozen big rounds - that was a bet less than I was doing last fall. Not bad so maybe I can get back at least some of the winter's loss.
> 
> ...


I'm running with pictures turned off, so when I clicked on "show picture" to see your hoarde, I expected to see a bunch of family working the wood pile, not your wood hoard!


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## johnnylabguy (Jan 7, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> No rust on mine and it hasn't been shedded since new about 5 years ago.
> 
> Put in time on the woodpile and busted up a dozen big rounds - that was a bet less than I was doing last fall. Not bad so maybe I can get back at least some of the winter's loss.
> 
> ...


Wow Harry! You are a wood hoarder! Not that there's anything wrong with that. It keeps you young! Do you sell any? That locust should command a premium. Nice stacks.


----------



## turnkey4099 (Jan 7, 2015)

johnnylabguy said:


> Wow Harry! You are a wood hoarder! Not that there's anything wrong with that. It keeps you young! Do you sell any? That locust should command a premium. Nice stacks.



I have a customer for 4 cord Willow every year ($120/cord). That stuff I am working on is for delivery in 2016 or 2017. I had to put up a "This Wood Not for Sale" sign to stop being bothered by people stopping to ask. I'm thinking about changing it to "for sale" to pare the piles down to a reasonable stash.

Harry K


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## svk (Jan 8, 2015)

Serious offer: If you have a Fiskars X27 and don't like it, please PM me. I'm looking to pick up one to give to a friend and if we can do a deal to put $ in your pocket and save me a little from retail, I'm all for it.


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## svk (Jan 9, 2015)

svk said:


> Serious offer: If you have a Fiskars X27 and don't like it, please PM me. I'm looking to pick up one to give to a friend and if we can do a deal to put $ in your pocket and save me a little from retail, I'm all for it.


PM box is still empty. Where are all the haters when you need them?


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## svk (Jan 9, 2015)

Hey @CTYank here's a couple of images for your computer background or screensaver slideshow. Or maybe you could just tile @Philbert 's wood grain axe 50 times across your screen.


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## Philbert (Jan 9, 2015)

Nice display. Surprised that Home Depot sells some Fiskars yard and garden tools, but not the axes/mauls. Must be some marketing reason? Menards carried them for a while many years ago, then sold them at a clearance. But HD sells some more upscale yard and garden stuff in the right neighborhoods, including the Ryobi 40 volt ***.

Philbert


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## Ambull01 (Jan 10, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> No rust on mine and it hasn't been shedded since new about 5 years ago.
> 
> Put in time on the woodpile and busted up a dozen big rounds - that was a bet less than I was doing last fall. Not bad so maybe I can get back at least some of the winter's loss.
> 
> ...



Holy hell. Remind me never to question you about splitting, cutting, or anything firewood related sir. I don't think I'll ever reach 80-90 cords of cutting and splitting.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 11, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Holy hell. Remind me never to question you about splitting, cutting, or anything firewood related sir. I don't think I'll ever reach 80-90 cords of cutting and splitting.



That "stash" got started when the locust borer killed Black Locust all over the county. Prior to that I was heating my house solely with Willow - that's the only wood that is available in any quantitiy in this area. Being retired and needing the exercise I think I got more than a little carried away.  Lucked into some scores of up to 5 acres that needed clear cutting - took a couple years on a couple of them. My 'wooding' truck is a 2x 1989 f150 6cyl and 4spd. Carries some 300 ft of cable, multiple snatch blocks and sundry rigging stuff. Got to where I was pretty good at snaking logs out of what would have been inaccessible spots.

All in all it was a fun time and only scared myself a couple times, once when I came very close to dropping one on an occupied trailer house. Did hit the truck once but only brushed the passenger side denting the door and wiping the mirror off it.

Just rambling at 12:30 am. Brewski time!

Harry K


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## Ambull01 (Jan 11, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> That "stash" got started when the locust borer killed Black Locust all over the county. Prior to that I was heating my house solely with Willow - that's the only wood that is available in any quantitiy in this area. Being retired and needing the exercise I think I got more than a little carried away.  Lucked into some scores of up to 5 acres that needed clear cutting - took a couple years on a couple of them. My 'wooding' truck is a 2x 1989 f150 6cyl and 4spd. Carries some 300 ft of cable, multiple snatch blocks and sundry rigging stuff. Got to where I was pretty good at snaking logs out of what would have been inaccessible spots.
> 
> All in all it was a fun time and only scared myself a couple times, once when I came very close to dropping one on an occupied trailer house. Did hit the truck once but only brushed the passenger side denting the door and wiping the mirror off it.
> 
> ...



Were you celebrating your Seahawks beating my Panthers? Damn it, this team is so frustrating. 

I can't wait for retirement. I'll tinker with chainsaws the whole time and spend a few hours noodling everyday. Sounds like heaven.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 11, 2015)

Harry K, your one badass ole timer! Got my respect sir. And the f150 with the 300ci six is a dynomite firewood hauler!


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 12, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Were you celebrating your Seahawks beating my Panthers? Damn it, this team is so frustrating.
> 
> I can't wait for retirement. I'll tinker with chainsaws the whole time and spend a few hours noodling everyday. Sounds like heaven.



Seahawks beat the Panthers? I must have been out on he wood pile . Actually, I don't watch sports but do sorta keep tabs on the Cougs.

Harry K


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 12, 2015)

Did he say he keeps tabs on the kegs?


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## artbaldoni (Jan 12, 2015)

MechanicMatt said:


> Did he say he keeps taps on the kegs?


Fixed that for ya...


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## square1 (Jan 12, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> For some reason, Clark Griswold popped into my mind looking at that hideous thing. Looks just like their station wagon.



Below is a pic of my firewood fetcher, and "Yes" I split with a Fiskar's X27, but only 10~11 cord a year.


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## svk (Jan 12, 2015)

square1 said:


> Below is a pic of my firewood fetcher, and "Yes" I split with a Fiskar's X27, but only 10~11 cord a year.


"Only" 

That's awesome!


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 12, 2015)

Art, you knew what I ment, hehehehe


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 12, 2015)

I was using the x27 today to see how filling the handle with foam worked, and decided it would be better if the head weighed a little more. After digging thru my scrap metal bin a came up with a piece only slightly wider than the poll of the fiskers.
A couple of holes in the block of steel, matching threaded holes in the poll of the fiskers. two 3/8 fine thread bolts with lock washers and I now have a heavier x27. The block extends over the handle an inch or so and is still slightly wider than the poll. I didn't weigh the added steel before I put it on but guess it is about a pound and a quarter.
Tomarrow I'll grind on it a little to make a smoother transition and give it a try. The extra weight above the poll should make it flip better as well as better straight spliting.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 12, 2015)

Pic?


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## zogger (Jan 12, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> I was using the x27 today to see how filling the handle with foam worked, and decided it would be better if the head weighed a little more. After digging thru my scrap metal bin a came up with a piece only slightly wider than the poll of the fiskers.
> A couple of holes in the block of steel, matching threaded holes in the poll of the fiskers. two 3/8 fine thread bolts with lock washers and I now have a heavier x27. The block extends over the handle an inch or so and is still slightly wider than the poll. I didn't weigh the added steel before I put it on but guess it is about a pound and a quarter.
> Tomarrow I'll grind on it a little to make a smoother transition and give it a try.



Whoop! You know we will need pics!!


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## svk (Jan 12, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> I was using the x27 today to see how filling the handle with foam worked, and decided it would be better if the head weighed a little more. After digging thru my scrap metal bin a came up with a piece only slightly wider than the poll of the fiskers.
> A couple of holes in the block of steel, matching threaded holes in the poll of the fiskers. two 3/8 fine thread bolts with lock washers and I now have a heavier x27. The block extends over the handle an inch or so and is still slightly wider than the poll. I didn't weigh the added steel before I put it on but guess it is about a pound and a quarter.
> Tomarrow I'll grind on it a little to make a smoother transition and give it a try. The extra weight above the poll should make it flip better as well as better straight spliting.


I've been thinking about something like this in my head for some time. Looking forward to seeing how it actually looks and works!!!!

Pics please!


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## svk (Jan 12, 2015)

Did you guys know that you can buy a Council Tool 6# maul for $25 shipped? I mean why would anyone buy a Fiskars at double the price????


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## Philbert (Jan 12, 2015)

What type of foam? Some, like the 2 part foam used for boat flotation will cure in cavities, like a Fiskars handle. 

Some, like the window/door sealant in a can, will not cure if not exposed to air. 

Some of the fiberglass, sectional poles used with pole saws are foam filled, but they are a lot longer!

Philbert


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 13, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> I was using the x27 today to see how filling the handle with foam worked, and decided it would be better if the head weighed a little more. After digging thru my scrap metal bin a came up with a piece only slightly wider than the poll of the fiskers.
> A couple of holes in the block of steel, matching threaded holes in the poll of the fiskers. two 3/8 fine thread bolts with lock washers and I now have a heavier x27. The block extends over the handle an inch or so and is still slightly wider than the poll. I didn't weigh the added steel before I put it on but guess it is about a pound and a quarter.
> Tomarrow I'll grind on it a little to make a smoother transition and give it a try. The extra weight above the poll should make it flip better as well as better straight spliting.



Has Fiskars replaced the X27? I was in Wal Mart the other day and checked the rack. There is a Fiskars Chopping Ax that looks identical to the x27 but only a skimpy head cover. No "X27" marking on it. It felt heavier than my X27 but I could be mistaken. If it is heavier, I would like one! Price was $59

Harry K


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## Philbert (Jan 13, 2015)

I checked a local Wal-Mart recently. Still had the X27, but with a black handle and without the plastic sheath. Also had the chopping axe and the small hatchet. But the display was such a mess that you could not tell which was which, or how much each one was, unless you already were quite familiar with these products.

Philbert


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 13, 2015)

Philbert said:


> What type of foam? Some, like the 2 part foam used for boat flotation will cure in cavities, like a Fiskars handle.
> 
> Some, like the window/door sealant in a can, will not cure if not exposed to air.
> 
> ...


A small local manufacturing concern that is operating with some ancient equipment occasionally has me "forge" parts for their maintance department. They use a gun that mixes the two part stuff in their packing department. I took the fiskars in last time I dropped off parts and had a little squrited into the handle. It did help dampen the vibrations that were bugging me.


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## lapeer20m (Jan 14, 2015)

I split a lot of wood by hand. Most of my life I used a standard 8 pound mall. I drank the kooliade and purchased an x27. 

At first it didn't work well. A little more research revealed that I was doing it wrong. To make up for its lack of mass, the x27 needs more speed than a traditional maul. 

Once I figured out how to swing faster, I find that the x27 almost always splits easier, better, faster than a traditional maul. 

I also find the x27 rarely gets stuck in an unsplit piece of wood. And it's much lighter to carry and work with. 

Even though I have options, I generally choose the x27 for splitting by hand.


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## Wisneaky (Jan 14, 2015)

lapeer20m said:


> I split a lot of wood by hand. Most of my life I used a standard 8 pound mall. I drank the kooliade and purchased an x27.
> 
> At first it didn't work well. A little more research revealed that I was doing it wrong. To make up for its lack of mass, the x27 needs more speed than a traditional maul.
> 
> ...


I also have the x27 and have no issues with it. I also think its all about the speed.


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## genesis5521 (Jan 14, 2015)

I love my X27. I don't use it much, but it sure does come in handy sometimes. Just this year, I cut a tree (don't know what kind it was), but my log splitter couldn't put a dent in any of the rounds. I couldn't believe it. I was about to noodle the rounds, but then decided to try the X27 on them. That X27 split every one of those rounds. Oh sure.... it took a lot of work. I just couldn't believe that little X27 split all those rounds when my log splitter couldn't put a dent any ANY of them.


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## svk (Jan 14, 2015)

lapeer20m said:


> I split a lot of wood by hand. Most of my life I used a standard 8 pound mall. I drank the kooliade and purchased an x27.
> 
> At first it didn't work well. A little more research revealed that I was doing it wrong. To make up for its lack of mass, the x27 needs more speed than a traditional maul.
> 
> ...


Pretty much sums it all up right here.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 15, 2015)

genesis5521 said:


> I love my X27. I don't use it much, but it sure does come in handy sometimes. Just this year, I cut a tree (don't know what kind it was), but my log splitter couldn't put a dent in any of the rounds. I couldn't believe it. I was about to noodle the rounds, but then decided to try the X27 on them. That X27 split every one of those rounds. Oh sure.... it took a lot of work. I just couldn't believe that little X27 split all those rounds when my log splitter couldn't put a dent any ANY of them.


Sounds like a sycamore, some of them totaly frustrate hydro splitters but are easy to bust up by hand if you work around the edges taking off tangent splits.
The fiskars has its place, for some, but lacks the weight needed for most of my splitting.
The shape of the cheeks could be improved by making them a little convex. Nothing can be easily done about that, but I have added weight to the poll of mine which improved penetration and had no noticeable effect on speed. It now splits close to as well as my old 5 pound rafting pattern ax. I had to choke up about 6 inches on the rafting ax for comparison because of its longer haft.
I think I hit more accurately with the hafts I make because they have flatter sides, more like a board than a pole, as well as faster and harder because of the length.
I felt kind of pumy today so mostly laid around, tomarrow I'll try to give it a good workout.


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## Philbert (Jan 15, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> I have added weight to the poll of mine which improved penetration and had no noticeable effect on speed.


Still waiting on photos . . .

Philbert


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## Philbert (Jan 15, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> I think I hit more accurately with the hafts I make because they have flatter sides, more like a board than a pole, . . .


Need me to mail you some strips of veneer for your Fiskars handle? PM me with an address.

Philbert


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## Cerran (Jan 15, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> I also have the x27 and have no issues with it. I also think its all about the speed.



It is about the speed:

Energy = .5 x Mass x velocity ^ 2

Assume: Mass = 2, velocity = 10 then energy out would be 100

Assume: Mass = 4, velocity = 10 then energy out would be 200

Assume: Mass = 2, velocity =14.14 then energy out would be 200

You either need to increase mass by 100% or increase velocity by 41% to get the same energy output.


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## Marshy (Jan 15, 2015)

Cerran said:


> It is about the speed:
> 
> Energy = .5 x Mass x velocity ^ 2
> 
> ...


 
@Whitespider, want some


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## Jake Wise (Jan 15, 2015)

Cerran said:


> It is about the speed:



And mass, and accuracy of the swing, and how long you can swing it if you need to go all day, and the head design, and the atmospheric pressure, and the moon phase.

Once all the variables are entered in this math becomes a headache.


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## Cerran (Jan 15, 2015)

Jake Wise said:


> And mass, and accuracy of the swing, and how long you can swing it if you need to go all day, and the head design, and the atmospheric pressure, and the moon phase.
> 
> Once all the variables are entered in this math becomes a headache.



No doubt other factors are at play, but energy is the primary factor.

I know my experience with mauls that head shape and design plays a large factor in the effectiveness of the tool. I have a couple mauls that are next to worthless without grinding down the shape of the head.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 15, 2015)

Cerran said:


> No doubt other factors are at play, but energy is the primary factor.
> 
> I know my experience with mauls that head shape and design plays a large factor in the effectiveness of the tool. I have a couple mauls that are next to worthless without grinding down the shape of the head.



Yep, I bought a new "Collins" mall, The slope from poin to main part is so steep, I can't even get it to stick in Willow.
Since I rarely use it as a maul, I haven' ground the cheeks down yet.
Harry K


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## svk (Jan 15, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> Yep, I bought a new "Collins" mall, The slope from poin to main part is so steep, I can't even get it to stick in Willow.
> Since I rarely use it as a maul, I haven' ground the cheeks down yet.
> Harry K


Collins or Council?


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## svk (Jan 15, 2015)

I'm kind of in shock that one of the haters on this site hasn't shown up for the last several pages to tell us Fiskars don't work, didn't split the wood we split, have poor metallurgy, and the handle is going to break.


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## bubmiller (Jan 15, 2015)

These Fiskars are junk! They bounce off the soft woods and break the heads off on the hard stuff. I've had to get replacements twice now and will never buy one again.


















PS. Only the part about needing replaced twice is true.


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## quotejso2 (Jan 15, 2015)

Did about 1000 swings with the fiskars today 20 with the maul over strikes with the fiskars are very painfull but it shows no damage


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 16, 2015)

Damage won't show from many over strikes then one day it breaks from almost nothing.
That's the story I have gotten about the broken ones I have seen.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 16, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Still waiting on photos . . .
> 
> Philbert


Kids coming for a visit toward end of month, might get some pics then.


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## Marshy (Jan 16, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> Damage won't show from many over strikes then one day it breaks from almost nothing.
> That's the story I have gotten about the broken ones I have seen.


So, no real first hand experience just hearsay. Good reason to trash talk a product.


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## Red97 (Jan 16, 2015)

The Fiskars is a POP

Handles do break Quite easy




about 3 cord on this one, But if I am going to over strike I make it worth it, The fiskars is good for 5 missed hits, Wood handle good for 2. WIN Fiskars

They could be a little harder metal





This is my new one about 5 cords on it

Because every split it ends up handle deep in the dirt. LOL

So to sum it up The fiskars does everything it is supposed to unless you are like me, a person that can break a bowling ball in a padded room.

Yep I like it. A lot.


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## svk (Jan 16, 2015)

Red97 said:


> The Fiskars is a POP
> 
> Handles do break Quite easy
> 
> ...


Did you send those in for warranty?


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## Marshy (Jan 16, 2015)

Man that must of stung the hands. I hardly over strike and when I do its painful with the fiskars so I try even harder to minimize that. I also lay down some rounds or split on top of my log pile so I dont run that baby into the dirt. So far I think this thing is going to last a life time.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 16, 2015)

svk said:


> Collins or Council?



"Collins", well known name is mauls, axes, etc.

Harry K


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## svk (Jan 16, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> "Collins", well known name is mauls, axes, etc.
> 
> Harry K


Just checkin'. 

I've got a 8# Collins. Nice head but it tires me out.


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## Red97 (Jan 16, 2015)

svk said:


> Did you send those in for warranty?


 
No, I never bothered registering the things, The first one broke at the end of the season last year, so I did not need it. I only broke one.



Marshy said:


> Man that must of stung the hands. I hardly over strike and when I do its painful with the fiskars so I try even harder to minimize that. I also lay down some rounds or split on top of my log pile so I dont run that baby into the dirt. So far I think this thing is going to last a life time.


 
I wear padded gloves, never notice much rattle, Plus my hands are normally numb from running my old saws. LOL 
I was cutting 30-34" rounds, so not real feasible to raise them much. I do good until I find a tough round that takes more than one hit, then the next round gets blasted the same way, and the head is in the dirt.


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## svk (Jan 16, 2015)

Red97 said:


> No, I never bothered registering the things, The first one broke at the end of the season last year, so I did not need it. I only broke one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don't think you need to register it. Send them an email.


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## svk (Jan 16, 2015)

On a whim I tried to find a Walmart that had a X25 in stock between my home and cabin but nobody has them out yet. 

@Philbert you mentioned somewhere in the metro has them out year round?


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## Marshy (Jan 16, 2015)

Red97 said:


> I wear padded gloves, never notice much rattle, Plus my hands are normally numb from running my old saws. LOL
> I was cutting 30-34" rounds, so not real feasible to raise them much. I do good until I find a tough round that takes more than one hit, then the next round gets blasted the same way, and the head is in the dirt.


 

I put 3 rounds on their side on the ground and set what Im splitting on the to furthest away from me. If I blow through it the axe ends up in the round and not the dirt. Also laying them on the side mean they or only ~8 inches off the ground and if I half a bigger'ish round (12") then they wont roll.


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## Cerran (Jan 16, 2015)

svk said:


> I don't think you need to register it. Send them an email.



+1, I have not broken one but one of my neighbors has and he sent them the old head and they sent him a new axe.

_Fiskars products are warranted to the consumer purchaser to be free of defects in material and workmanship for as long as the consumer owns the product. Warranty does not cover sharpening, normal wear and tear, environmental factors, accidental damage, misuse, industrial/commercial use.

At Fiskars Brands, Inc.'s option, defective product will be repaired, replaced or substituted with a product of equal value. For more details, call Fiskars Brands, Inc. at 1-866-348-5661. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which may vary from state to state. _


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## Philbert (Jan 16, 2015)

svk said:


> Philbert you mentioned somewhere in the metro has them out year round?


WalMart near my house has them in the garden area. It is a quiet part of the store this time of the year, but they still have some stuff there. Might depend on the size of the store.

Philbert


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## svk (Jan 16, 2015)

I checked a bunch in north metro and all the way up to Virginia. I know spring stuff comes out shortly after v day.


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 16, 2015)

When you bust the handle of your fiskars, drill a couple of holes in from the poll then cut thru the handle area, thread the holes in the blade side, enlarge the poll holes to take bolts, make a haft and reassemble like the vario. Call it Franken-ax, it lives!


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## quotejso2 (Jan 16, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> When you bust the handle of your fiskars, drill a couple of holes in from the poll then cut thru the handle area, thread the holes in the blade side, enlarge the poll holes to take bolts, make a haft and reassemble like the vario. Call it Franken-ax, it lives!


That sounds terrible


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 17, 2015)

quotejso2 said:


> That sounds terrible


Well, it should. After all it's a "monster" ax!


----------



## svk (Jan 30, 2015)

Philbert said:


> *#cant'-wait-to-try-it!
> *
> Really stoked! Added some veneer to my Fiskars' plastic handle (beech? butternut?). _REAL_ wood. This might be bigger than the Piltz sprocket! I expect my performance to double at least.
> _(But I'm 'gonna be really p.o.'d if I get splinters. . . . )
> ...


Still the best post of 15'


----------



## svk (Feb 3, 2015)

Owed a favor to a friend so as of this afternoon he's got a X27 on the way courtesy of me. $55 shipped from Amazon for the original orange grip model.


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## MechanicMatt (Feb 3, 2015)

$55 that's what makes them pound for pound champ. I'm not arguing a wetterlings isn'ta great splitting device, because it is, but for the price.......you can NOT beat a x27. Period.


----------



## svk (Feb 3, 2015)

MechanicMatt said:


> $55 that's what makes them pound for pound champ. I'm not arguing a wetterlings isn'ta great splitting device, because it is, but for the price.......you can NOT beat a x27. Period.


No you can't. 

I see the average price has gone up but there are still a few good deals. When I bought mine it was $49 shipped a couple years ago so not too bad considering the popularity of these.


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## pennsywoodburnr (Feb 4, 2015)

svk said:


> No you can't.
> 
> I see the average price has gone up but there are still a few good deals. When I bought mine it was $49 shipped a couple years ago so not too bad considering the popularity of these.



Here's a question for you svk. I've got both X27's. The orange handled Hogue-type rubber grip one, and the all black one where they tried to give the handle the carbon fiber look. When I went on amazon about a week back, I noticed most of the straight black axes (both splitting and chopping) were discontinued from fiskars. I'm trying to find out whether they were a limited production run, or if some other issues cropped up with them.....


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## svk (Feb 4, 2015)

pennsywoodburnr said:


> Here's a question for you svk. I've got both X27's. The orange handled Hogue-type rubber grip one, and the all black one where they tried to give the handle the carbon fiber look. When I went on amazon about a week back, I noticed most of the straight black axes (both splitting and chopping) were discontinued from fiskars. I'm trying to find out whether they were a limited production run, or if some other issues cropped up with them.....


Someone else chime in if I'm wrong here but I think the all black version was put out last year primarily for big boxes and they only made a limited run of them. IIRC they were a few bucks cheaper but the important part (the head) was identical.


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## Ronaldo (Feb 4, 2015)

I remember the orange handled models being replaced by the all black models in our local Wal-Marts. I assumed they were the newest and most recent models(all black)?
Thats all I know from what I saw here in our area, and yea, I noticed the head was identical.


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## jerrycmorrow (Feb 4, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> When you bust the handle of your fiskars, drill a couple of holes in from the poll then cut thru the handle area, thread the holes in the blade side, enlarge the poll holes to take bolts, make a haft and reassemble like the vario. Call it Franken-ax, it lives!


pix or it didn't happen


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## Oldman47 (Feb 4, 2015)

I bought one of those all black ones from the on-line Farm and Fleet location a couple of weeks ago. It was indeed a bit cheaper than what I found for an X27 but it seems to work just fine. The only difference I know of is that the orange crap is some kind of shock absorbing rubber. The all black one uses what looks like a carbon fiber handle with a molded grip area instead of the orange rubbery stuff.


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## Marshy (Feb 4, 2015)

I dont think they are true carbon fiber, only made to look like it... I think they are molded ABS or PC or something.


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## Oldman47 (Feb 4, 2015)

Could well be. It does make a nice working splitter though.


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## pennsywoodburnr (Feb 5, 2015)

svk said:


> Someone else chime in if I'm wrong here but I think the all black version was put out last year primarily for big boxes and they only made a limited run of them. IIRC they were a few bucks cheaper but the important part (the head) was identical.




Okay, that would make sense seeing as that I scooped it up while I was at Walmart last year.


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## MechanicMatt (Feb 5, 2015)

Been splitting wood like crazy with all black version, no complaints. And it was bought at SEARS.


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## sledge&wedge (Feb 5, 2015)

svk said:


> Someone else chime in if I'm wrong here but I think the all black version was put out last year primarily for big boxes and they only made a limited run of them. IIRC they were a few bucks cheaper but the important part (the head) was identical.



I'd say you're right... I picked up my all black version at Wal-Mart about 6 months ago for a whopping $40. First thing I did was go compare it to my cousin's orange-handled X27 and it was identical... It has split roughly 5 cords since then with no signs of slowing down.


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## jerrycmorrow (Feb 5, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> When you bust the handle of your fiskars, drill a couple of holes in from the poll then cut thru the handle area, thread the holes in the blade side, enlarge the poll holes to take bolts, make a haft and reassemble like the vario. Call it Franken-ax, it lives!


still would like to see this. sounds like a good idea, just can't visualize it.


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## BeatCJ (Feb 5, 2015)

Red97 said:


>





Red97 said:


> No, I never bothered registering the things,



Hey, ship that head to me, I'll build a FrankenSplitter. I'll even pay shipping!


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## woodchuck357 (Feb 6, 2015)

jerrycmorrow said:


> pix or it didn't happen


It didn't happen, just an idea.
I don't miss and the kids that use my fiskars aren't big enough to have that much power.


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## jerrycmorrow (Feb 6, 2015)

ah so! went and got me all excited about getting a new fiskars and restoring the broken one


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## svk (Feb 6, 2015)

I'd still like to pick up a X25 to test out. According to Walmart's website there are none in MN stores currently and they want $14 to ship (ouch). I'll probably just grab one during my next amazon order and get free shipping.


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## brenndatomu (Feb 6, 2015)

Looks to me like reds got 'im an X25...


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## Ronaldo (Feb 7, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Looks to me like reds got 'im an X25...


I think that looks more like an X17 chopping axe! Love the photo!


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## BeatCJ (Feb 7, 2015)

svk said:


> I'd still like to pick up a X25 to test out. According to Walmart's website there are none in MN stores currently and they want $14 to ship (ouch). I'll probably just grab one during my next amazon order ask get free shipping.


Doesn't Wally World Ship to the Store for free?


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## svk (Feb 7, 2015)

BeatCJ said:


> Doesn't Wally World Ship to the Store for free?


I think they do. Good idea.


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## Sawdust inspector (Feb 12, 2015)

I just got my x27 in the mail. Didn't cost me a penny. The wife seen it on the kitchen table and said this table can't end up in the wood stove like the last one. She didn't know I just got it. Gotta try that trick with a new saw.


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## mn woodcutter (Feb 12, 2015)




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## Philbert (Feb 12, 2015)

Consider the source. Consider his other reviews. 

Philbert


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## svk (Feb 12, 2015)

Saw that on FB earlier today. Haters gonna hate.


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## svk (Feb 12, 2015)

Speaking of Walmart. They started putting up their spring section of stuff in the past few days so the Fiskars display shouldn't be far behind


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## BlueLude2001 (Feb 13, 2015)

I was reading some comments on that wranglestar video and he replied to a comment saying "fiskars destroyed my hometown gerber knives" 

Not really sure what he means by that sentence...


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## svk (Feb 13, 2015)

BlueLude2001 said:


> I was reading some comments on that wranglestar video and he replied to a comment saying "fiskars destroyed my hometown gerber knives"
> 
> Not really sure what he means by that sentence...


Gerber is HQ'd in Oregon. I'm assuming they must have outsourced the factory near him hence the distaste for their products. 

I followed his page for awhile but unliked it this morning. Really nothing of value there for me.


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## Mike-M (Feb 13, 2015)

svk said:


> I'd still like to pick up a X25 to test out. According to Walmart's website there are none in MN stores currently and they want $14 to ship (ouch). I'll probably just grab one during my next amazon order ask get free shipping.


I have a 25 and a 27, bought the 25 for my son cause i got sick of him putting my 27 in the dirt. There really isnt anything that the 25 does better in my opinion.


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## mn woodcutter (Feb 14, 2015)

You guys get so defensive! Hahaha. I thought that video was hilarious! Anyone who has seen his videos knows that he is in to quality "heritage" tools so it's no surprise that he doesn't care for the cheap and mass produced fiskars.


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## Oldman47 (Feb 15, 2015)

To him heritage means at least 50 years out of date. I rather like the improvements that come from better information and materials.


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## svk (Feb 19, 2015)

I get to deflower my buddy's new X27 (the one I bought for him) on some red oak tomorrow.


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## zogger (Feb 20, 2015)

svk said:


> I get to deflower my buddy's new X27 (the one I bought for him) on some red oak tomorrow.



If I had a new one, I'd use teflon spray on it from day one, to help preserve the factory coating, plus make it work even better. 

I'm still on the first can I bought, and have used it on all the mauls and axes, plus windows in the house and like tailgate hinges and locks, door hinges, etc. Very practical 4 buck investment.


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## svk (Feb 20, 2015)

I'm going to have to give that a try during springtime splitting.


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## mn woodcutter (Feb 20, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> To him heritage means at least 50 years out of date. I rather like the improvements that come from better information and materials.


Do you mean better materials like plastic and metal made from recycled tin cans?


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## Oldman47 (Feb 20, 2015)

Better materials includes things like the Fiskars handle or even carbon fiber handles. That idiot says that only wood can make a good handle. Sorry but that is ignorant. Modern science has given us some nice materials to work with. 
As far as better information, he might like the head on a monster maul if it had a wooden handle but no way would he go for one of the more recent designs that work without you killing yourself just to wield it. Reading his blog is like reading an ad for a 1950s DeSoto.


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## svk (Feb 20, 2015)

When it comes down to it, Fiskars is a $56 tool that outperforms 99% of other splitting tools regardless of cost. If someone doesn't like it, S T F U and use something else.


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## Ambull01 (Feb 20, 2015)

This has probably been mentioned but X27 can do some bar saving/limbing duties if needed. Got my bar and chain pinched a few times today because I thought there was no need for wedges. I was wrong and the Fiskars saved my butt. Doing that with a maul would have sucked.


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## mn woodcutter (Feb 21, 2015)

svk said:


> When it comes down to it, Fiskars is a $56 tool that outperforms 99% of other splitting tools regardless of cost. If someone doesn't like it, S T F U and use something else.


I'm not sure if you are directing your comment towards me but you made my previous point. It's a $56 tool and therefore not made of quality materials. It's mass produced with cheap metal and plastic! I never said I didn't like it. I own one and I use it probably more than most guys on here along with two other "cheap" mauls. 
IMO the fiskars has a great design using cheap material so I can use and abuse it without much maintenance (other than sharpening). It's the best I've found for straight grained wood and splitting inside a tire because I don't have to worry about breaking it. Even if I did it's only a cheap $56 tool that spends it's life outside.


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## svk (Feb 21, 2015)

It was not at all directed at you at all. It was just to the people who don't have one and/or haven't used one and talk continuous smack about it. It certainly has limitations and isn't a silver bullet. But it does work damn well in many situations.


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## cus_deluxe (Feb 21, 2015)

and it certainly doesnt seem to be made of cheap materials. the head holds an edge well and they tolerate overstrikes better than anything close to the same price.


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## mn woodcutter (Feb 22, 2015)

cus_deluxe said:


> and it certainly doesnt seem to be made of cheap materials. the head holds an edge well and they tolerate overstrikes better than anything close to the same price.


It doesn't hold an edge at all! That's one of my biggest issues with it. I only use it while splitting on a block with a tire and the edge only connects with wood. I still get constant nicks and chips and a dull blade after a short time. However it does perform well overall especially considering the price. I still say the design is great but the materials are cheap.


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## cus_deluxe (Feb 22, 2015)

maybe i just got a good one


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## svk (Feb 22, 2015)

Perhaps metallurgy varies by lot. Mine has a few chips from the brittleness but holds an edge just fine until I swing it into the dirt.


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## Ronaldo (Feb 22, 2015)

Mine appears to hold an edge very well and really, I am not too careful about how I split.
Was in my local Husqvarna dealer last week and he had a Husqvarna splitting axe and the splitting maul-----$89.00 for the axe and $99.00 for the maul. He said his rep wanted to have him get a couple out there and see what people thought of them. My dealer informed him it will be tough to sell them against hardware store mauls at $30 to $40.00.
My brother and I talked about getting one to share(cost and use), but we just cant see spending double the amount of a Fiskars and no warranty. As careful as I would try to be I just know a coupl over strikes or other hits to the shank of that hickory handle and it would be replacement time. I have used that Fiskars for years and had plenty of hits to the handle with no signs of damage. I would love to try out one of these wonder tools made by Wetterling( I think) and Husqvarna has them priced considerably less than a Wetterlings, but I just cant bring myself to plunk the $$$$down, when I have a tool already that works quite well.
We plan to just keep using our X25 and X27!


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## cus_deluxe (Feb 22, 2015)

Im willing to bet that most of the people who have issues with them not holding an edge have already sharpened off the factory edge. once that happens im sure that it will not hold an edge as well. this is a case of less is more. if you put a grinding wheel to it you might as well throw it in the scrap pile. occasionally taking the burrs off with a file should be plenty. I dont split in a tire because theres a lot of metal hiding just below the surface of a tire and even if you dont see it, its likely to cause some damage.


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## Ambull01 (Feb 22, 2015)

svk said:


> Perhaps metallurgy varies by lot. Mine has a few chips from the brittleness but holds an edge just fine until I swing it into the dirt.



Since I tried to split some pine rounds on gravel the day after the Fiskars arrived I've tried to be cognizant as to what I could hit. Despite this I'm still seeing a few chips/burs here and there. I may have messed up the edge taking a flat file to it but it seems as good as new. I have no need to shave with it so don't really care how sharp it is as long as it keeps splitting rounds. 



Ronaldo said:


> Mine appears to hold an edge very well and really, I am not too careful about how I split.
> Was in my local Husqvarna dealer last week and he had a Husqvarna splitting axe and the splitting maul-----$89.00 for the axe and $99.00 for the maul. He said his rep wanted to have him get a couple out there and see what people thought of them. My dealer informed him it will be tough to sell them against hardware store mauls at $30 to $40.00.
> My brother and I talked about getting one to share(cost and use), but we just cant see spending double the amount of a Fiskars and no warranty. As careful as I would try to be I just know a coupl over strikes or other hits to the shank of that hickory handle and it would be replacement time. I have used that Fiskars for years and had plenty of hits to the handle with no signs of damage. I would love to try out one of these wonder tools made by Wetterling( I think) and Husqvarna has them priced considerably less than a Wetterlings, but I just cant bring myself to plunk the $$$$down, when I have a tool already that works quite well.
> We plan to just keep using our X25 and X27!



lol. I'm in the same predicament. Part of me wants to test other tools but the X27 is getting the job done so far. I noodle the real difficult pieces. I may never own another splitting tool again except perhaps a log splitter.


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## turnkey4099 (Feb 22, 2015)

Ambull01 said:


> Since I tried to split some pine rounds on gravel the day after the Fiskars arrived I've tried to be cognizant as to what I could hit. Despite this I'm still seeing a few chips/burs here and there. I may have messed up the edge taking a flat file to it but it seems as good as new. I have no need to shave with it so don't really care how sharp it is as long as it keeps splitting rounds.
> 
> 
> 
> lol. I'm in the same predicament. Part of me wants to test other tools but the X27 is getting the job done so far. I noodle the real difficult pieces. I may never own another splitting tool again except perhaps a log splitter.



Haven't touched the edge on mine yet and it has eaten many, many cords since new. Bought about a year after they first came out. Yep a few nicks but hasn't hurt the splitting any.

Harry K


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## Marine5068 (Feb 23, 2015)

Overclock said:


> My cousin has an X27 and I was pretty impressed considering it truly feels like a toy. What a destructive toy though. lol
> 
> I'm tuned in for a #8 Council maul but that Fiskars was smooth if you are a stove guy.
> 
> This poor kid in the video needs some advice. His homemade wedge is impressive though.



Advice,,,,ya....like wear a friggin pair of safety glasses when using striking tools.
If a shard of metal comes flying off of that wedge and into your eye, you'll be blinded.
Wood will hurt your eye balls too.


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## Sawdust inspector (Mar 2, 2015)

Broke er in tonight. Forgot how good of a stress reliever splitting is. Ran er good n hard for 30 minutes in some nice ash. Good workout to. Ran out of blocks. Nice to split at night. Radio and cows in the background. Little bit of yard light mainly moon light. Very peaseful. Thanks everyone who made me aquire 1. I'm hooked.


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## Mapcinq (Mar 3, 2015)

Almost splitting season again here... will be getting out my X27 for its third year, and my other Fiskar for its 5th or 6th season... I see nothing wrong the quality of a Fiskars.


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## Section VIII (Mar 3, 2015)

I'm another happy X27 owner/user. I haven't had any problems with the sharpener either. Well....other than me breaking the small end off while being overzealous during sharpening. Nothing a little duct tape couldn't fix....


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## tla100 (Mar 9, 2015)

Well, the $28, 6 pound maul I bought a week or 2 ago with a Hickory handle is broke. Handle was getting loose, ended up in about 4 pieces. So, by the time I get a new handle, could have had a Fiskas for about same price, or well on my way. Minus the time I got grinding on the head. New to splitting by hand, but never had any overstrikes........


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## woodchuck357 (Mar 10, 2015)

cus_deluxe said:


> Im willing to bet that most of the people who have issues with them not holding an edge have already sharpened off the factory edge. once that happens im sure that it will not hold an edge as well. this is a case of less is more. if you put a grinding wheel to it you might as well throw it in the scrap pile. occasionally taking the burrs off with a file should be plenty. I dont split in a tire because theres a lot of metal hiding just below the surface of a tire and even if you dont see it, its likely to cause some damage.


The fine wires that are used in some tires are under the tread and I don't think anyone has ever dulled an ax by hitting them!
I guess there may be some that don't cut the bead off and miss so bad that they hit the tire instead of the wood but they aren't likely to be doing much splitting anyway.


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## svk (Mar 10, 2015)

woodchuck357 said:


> The fine wires that are used in some tires are under the tread and I don't think anyone has ever dulled an ax by hitting them!
> I guess there may be some that don't cut the bead off and miss so bad that they hit the tire instead of the wood but they aren't likely to be doing much splitting anyway.


Agree!

I'll have to post a picture of my Fiskars edge sometime. It's not even straight any more yet still splits wood like crazy.


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## sledge&wedge (Mar 10, 2015)

mn woodcutter said:


> It doesn't hold an edge at all! That's one of my biggest issues with it. I only use it while splitting on a block with a tire and the edge only connects with wood. I still get constant nicks and chips and a dull blade after a short time. However it does perform well overall especially considering the price. I still say the design is great but the materials are cheap.



I respectfully disagree with pretty much every statement I've seen you make about the Fiskars. I agree with it performing very well for the price, and that the design is great. Where you're losing me is the "materials are cheap" bit. I have put my Fiskars through somewhere between 8 and 10 cords of wood since last fall, some on a splitting block, and some on the ground. I have yet to have to touch it with a file, sharpener, etc. It has a wicked sharp edge still, and splits as well, if not better, today than it did the day I started swinging it. Sure, it's no secret that the head of an X27 is softer metal than some of your typical axe- or maul-head alloys, but the tool is not designed to split rocks and crack concrete. You seem to be aware of that as you mention it "only connects with wood," but that is what makes me doubt your credibility. There's no way you are chipping your blade-edge on wood, unless maybe you are trying to chop trees down. I'm sure smacking bark and limbing trunks will have a much more detrimental impact on edge longevity, but I don't use my Fiskars for those tasks so I wouldn't know. As I said, I have sent mine through 8-10 cords of wood, some of which was set on the good ol' ground, and I still have no nicks, chips, or dulling. The only way I'm seeing "cheap" as being an accurate descriptor is if we are talking overall cost vs. overall performance. If that's the case, then by all means, this thing is as cheap as Hamm's Beer and peanuts.

Anyway that's just my two cents, which I've been told may be suffering from inflation, depending on the topic at hand. By all means, buy what you like, swing what you want, and have fun. Good day to all and good luck drying out after all this freeze and thaw nonsense we're having here lately.


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## Marshy (Mar 10, 2015)

IDK why some people seems to correlate "cheap metal" with the Fiskars wedge and I don't really agree with them. It's a different steel than the normal maul or axe and its brittle, that doesn't make it cheap, just different material properties. Run it into a rock and it wont fair as well as the normal axe/maul but that shouldn't be a measure of its quality or effectiveness. I've processed about 15 cords with mine and I sharpen it with a file to keep it sharp. I don't let it get dull and ever since I nicked a small rock with the top corner I always make sure I wont run it to ground. Not a hard change in behavior and it makes the tool last.



tla100 said:


> Well, the $28, 6 pound maul I bought a week or 2 ago with a Hickory handle is broke. Handle was getting loose, ended up in about 4 pieces. So, by the time I get a new handle, could have had a Fiskas for about same price, or well on my way. Minus the time I got grinding on the head. New to splitting by hand, but never had any overstrikes........



Wait till you break one more handle, you'd wish you bought a Fiskars sooner.


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 10, 2015)

Marshy said:


> IDK why some people seems to correlate "cheap metal" with the Fiskars wedge and I don't really agree with them. It's a different steel than the normal maul or axe and its brittle, that doesn't make it cheap, just different material properties. Run it into a rock and it wont fair as well as the normal axe/maul but that shouldn't be a measure of its quality or effectiveness. I've processed about 15 cords with mine and I sharpen it with a file to keep it sharp. I don't let it get dull and ever since I nicked a small rock with the top corner I always make sure I wont run it to ground. Not a hard change in behavior and it makes the tool last.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait till you break one more handle, you'd wish you bought a Fiskars sooner.



Agree fully. To think that the designers of this tool are using "cheap material" is laughable. They've been in busness a long, long time and the tool has a 'no questions asked' return policy. 

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 10, 2015)

I made a convert the other day. Offered a buddy a 1/2 cord of rounds I had already bucked. He came out with trailer to load, I loaned him my X27. Next day he came back for a different batch and this time he asked for it. Kept shaking his head how easy it made things. I also turned him onto my hookeroon. He'll be getting both 

Harry K


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## svk (Mar 13, 2015)

I've hand split about 5 cords with my X27 in the past two days. Still don't understand why some people hate this axe so much?


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## Greny (Mar 13, 2015)

svk said:


> I've hand split about 5 cords with my X27 in the past two days. Still don't understand why some people hate this axe so much?




Same here , love that axe.


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## Marshy (Mar 13, 2015)

Yep me too. 6-7 full cord a year with mine.


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## mn woodcutter (Mar 13, 2015)

sledge&wedge said:


> I respectfully disagree with pretty much every statement I've seen you make about the Fiskars. I agree with it performing very well for the price, and that the design is great. Where you're losing me is the "materials are cheap" bit. I have put my Fiskars through somewhere between 8 and 10 cords of wood since last fall, some on a splitting block, and some on the ground. I have yet to have to touch it with a file, sharpener, etc. It has a wicked sharp edge still, and splits as well, if not better, today than it did the day I started swinging it. Sure, it's no secret that the head of an X27 is softer metal than some of your typical axe- or maul-head alloys, but the tool is not designed to split rocks and crack concrete. You seem to be aware of that as you mention it "only connects with wood," but that is what makes me doubt your credibility. There's no way you are chipping your blade-edge on wood, unless maybe you are trying to chop trees down. I'm sure smacking bark and limbing trunks will have a much more detrimental impact on edge longevity, but I don't use my Fiskars for those tasks so I wouldn't know. As I said, I have sent mine through 8-10 cords of wood, some of which was set on the good ol' ground, and I still have no nicks, chips, or dulling. The only way I'm seeing "cheap" as being an accurate descriptor is if we are talking overall cost vs. overall performance. If that's the case, then by all means, this thing is as cheap as Hamm's Beer and peanuts.
> 
> Anyway that's just my two cents, which I've been told may be suffering from inflation, depending on the topic at hand. By all means, buy what you like, swing what you want, and have fun. Good day to all and good luck drying out after all this freeze and thaw nonsense we're having here lately.



Hahaha I'm sorry you feel you have to question my credibility. I'm not sure why my X27 gets dulled from splitting on a chopping block inside a tire. I thought it might be that I was somehow cutting through the rubber and hitting wire at times but I don't see any evidence of that. I also don't know why you guys can't accept the FACT that the X27 is made from cheap low cost materials. It's just not quality metal and there is no getting around it. Just because you split 10 cords doesn't change that fact. It's a great tool for the price and it works well (even great) in some applications. I don't hate on it, I just see reality.


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## Marshy (Mar 13, 2015)

mn woodcutter said:


> ... I also don't know why you guys can't accept the FACT that the X27 is made from cheap low cost materials. It's just not quality metal and there is no getting around it. Just because you split 10 cords doesn't change that fact. ...


 
Your entitled to your opinion but its just that, an opinion with no fact. You are making an assumption based on your observations and not facts. Just because the steel is more brittle does not mean its cheap and low cost, for all we know it might be more expensive to produce than other steels. Plain and simple, it's steel just has different material properties as compared to the other axes and mauls. I personally have no issue keeping the edge sharp when splitting. I do keep it tuned up with a flat file and its probably more sharp than some pocket knives. Also, the handle is not your average plastic. Im not quite sure that they use but it is QUALITY to be able to take the kind of beating I put it through. If you compared the cost of the Fiskars handle to the cost of a wooden handel I would be willing to bet that Fiskars is more expensive and given its durability I consider it to be better quality than wood and fiberglass.


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## zogger (Mar 13, 2015)

I have no idea how to test or determine what is what when it comes to steel. Maybe someone here knows how and has the means and skills to test a fiskars compared to some other axes and mauls.


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## Marshy (Mar 13, 2015)

zogger said:


> I have no idea how to test or determine what is what when it comes to steel. Maybe someone here knows how and has the means and skills to test a fiskars compared to some other axes and mauls.


 
It's kind of complicated and takes special equipment. Look up spectral analysis. That would give you all the properties of its elements. Combine that with hardness testing you should be able to determine what it is and heat treat. Also, electron microscope to look at grain boundary. Usually the spectra is the tell-all though.


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## zogger (Mar 13, 2015)

Marshy said:


> It's kind of complicated and takes special equipment. Look up spectral analysis. That would give you all the properties of its elements. Combine that with hardness testing you should be able to determine what it is and heat treat. Also, electron microscope to look at grain boundary. Usually the spectra is the tell-all though.




Cool vid and nice description you gave.

To my eyes, just my eyes, fiskars steel seems "closer" to like a file, that sort of steel, over my other tools like that? Does that make sense?


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## svk (Mar 13, 2015)

zogger said:


> I have no idea how to test or determine what is what when it comes to steel. Maybe someone here knows how and has the means and skills to test a fiskars compared to some other axes and mauls.


Well I'm sure there's a few folks around here who think they know....


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## Philbert (Mar 13, 2015)

Steel is complex, and also a general term, like 'food'. You can give 2 people the same ingredients (eggs, flour, sugar, milk, etc.), and depending how they mix, and handle, and bake them, one person will produce a beautiful cake or souffle', and the other will make some kind of slop that the dogs won't eat. Same thing with steel: iron, carbon, chrome, nickel, etc.

There are different, desirable attributes, such as: hardness, tensile strength, ductility, etc.; and undesirable attributes, such as brittleness, corrosion, etc. So you really need to know what design parameters the Fiskars engineers were seeking when choosing the alloy that they did, before criticizing it. I can buy a 'cheap' axe or maul for much less than a Fiskars, often at the same stores.

Folks are obsessed over the composite ('cheap plastic') handle should really freak out about materials used in $5,000 bicycles and $300 million aircraft. I like the way that the weight is optimized in the striking head of the Fiskars by using the lighter handle. If folks like lifting the heavier, conventional mauls, I promise not to make fun of them, or their 'higher quality' alloys (typically from low cost vendors in Mexico or India these days).

Philbert


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## sledge&wedge (Mar 13, 2015)

mn woodcutter said:


> Hahaha I'm sorry you feel you have to question my credibility. I'm not sure why my X27 gets dulled from splitting on a chopping block inside a tire. I thought it might be that I was somehow cutting through the rubber and hitting wire at times but I don't see any evidence of that. I also don't know why you guys can't accept the FACT that the X27 is made from cheap low cost materials. It's just not quality metal and there is no getting around it. Just because you split 10 cords doesn't change that fact. It's a great tool for the price and it works well (even great) in some applications. I don't hate on it, I just see reality.



I think you completely missed the point of my post, but that's alright. All I'm saying is that if you are going to throw out an opinion on something, tell us why. If I wanted to hear opinions with no supporting evidence, I'd visit the comment section of a YouTube video. If it is FACT that it is all cheap, provide some EVIDENCE. Anyway, like I said before... Buy what you like, swing what you want. I take no personal offense to someone not liking the same product as me, I just want to know WHY you don't like it in case it is something that might affect me.

Oh, and @zogger , a Rockwell test would give you the hardness of the steel (or whatever material you are testing), but without knowing the composition of the alloy you can't really determine whether or not something has been heat treated, or to what degree. Like @Marshy mentioned, using spectral analysis or a scanning electron microscope would be the best way to determine the alloy. However, unless one of you guys has an SEM in your garage, I doubt we will ever make it that far


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## mn woodcutter (Mar 13, 2015)

sledge&wedge said:


> I think you completely missed the point of my post, but that's alright. All I'm saying is that if you are going to throw out an opinion on something, tell us why. If I wanted to hear opinions with no supporting evidence, I'd visit the comment section of a YouTube video. If it is FACT that it is all cheap, provide some EVIDENCE. Anyway, like I said before... Buy what you like, swing what you want. I take no personal offense to someone not liking the same product as me, I just want to know WHY you don't like it in case it is something that might affect me.
> 
> Oh, and @zogger , a Rockwell test would give you the hardness of the steel (or whatever material you are testing), but without knowing the composition of the alloy you can't really determine whether or not something has been heat treated, or to what degree. Like @Marshy mentioned, using spectral analysis or a scanning electron microscope would be the best way to determine the alloy. However, unless one of you guys has an SEM in their garage, I doubt we will ever make it that far


So where is your "evidence" that it IS quality steel? I think you missed my point. All I'm saying is that the X27 is made from cheap materials (based on my experience and the retail price of around $55) and that it is the design of the tool that makes it very effective. I don't hate it or have a problem with it. I use one!


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## sledge&wedge (Mar 13, 2015)

mn woodcutter said:


> So where is your "evidence" that it IS quality steel? I think you missed my point. All I'm saying is that the X27 is made from cheap materials (based on my experience and the retail price of around $55) and that it is the design of the tool that makes it very effective. I don't hate it or have a problem with it. I use one!



I never claimed that it is quality steel, I just disagreed with you saying that it is made of cheap materials. It's made of DIFFERENT materials, but they are extremely effective when used in the design Fiskars has put out. That alone is enough evidence for me to be convinced it was made right, and it wasn't an accident. Either way, I'm not here to argue or run in circles, I just wanted to hear what your reasoning was since you seem to be very adamant about it. You got your opinion, I got mine... no big deal. Have a good one.


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 13, 2015)

zogger said:


> I have no idea how to test or determine what is what when it comes to steel. Maybe someone here knows how and has the means and skills to test a fiskars compared to some other axes and mauls.



Wouldn't matter. He would still insist it was piss poor metal. 

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 13, 2015)

mn woodcutter said:


> So where is your "evidence" that it IS quality steel? I think you missed my point. All I'm saying is that the X27 is made from cheap materials (based on my experience and the retail price of around $55) and that it is the design of the tool that makes it very effective. I don't hate it or have a problem with it. I use one!



So if they priced it at $150 your complaints would end?

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 13, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Steel is complex, and also a general term, like 'food'. You can give 2 people the same ingredients (eggs, flour, sugar, milk, etc.), and depending how they mix, and handle, and bake them, one person will produce a beautiful cake or souffle', and the other will make some kind of slop that the dogs won't eat. Same thing with steel: iron, carbon, chrome, nickel, etc.
> 
> There are different, desirable attributes, such as: hardness, tensile strength, ductility, etc.; and undesirable attributes, such as brittleness, corrosion, etc. So you really need to know what design parameters the Fiskars engineers were seeking when choosing the alloy that they did, before criticizing it. I can buy a 'cheap' axe or maul for much less than a Fiskars, often at the same stores.
> 
> ...



But those "plastic" materials used in the bicycles and planes magically change to quality when the price tag is added.

Harry K


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## svk (Mar 13, 2015)

turnkey4099 said:


> Wouldn't matter. He would still insist it was piss poor metal.
> 
> Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 13, 2015)

Saw the buddy at breakfast this morning on the way to work. He had made a special trip to wally world for a Fiskars - got the black handle "chopping ax" (f27 seems to be off the market now). Says it is identical to the x27 and had already split and stacked the cord and half of blocks I gave him. He was working on finding a source for a logrite hookeroon and found one in stock on the Oregon site.

Seems I made a convert.

No, I didnt' tell him that the metal was junk. 

Harry K


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## tla100 (Mar 13, 2015)

They only had the chopping axe at Wally world when I looked today. All the splitting axes were gone. I think the head is a lot narrower on the chopping axe and handle is shorter. not an expert by no means on this, but thats what I figured from the different boxes

I did put a new handle on my maul, and after about 15 swings I busted that handle. Returned that for cash. Going to weld a steel handle on and to hell with wood handles. So I hauled out the


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## svk (Mar 13, 2015)

I'm not going to dig back through the posts to quote them but one member said his X27 dulls right away when splitting on a block and someone also mentioned theirs wouldn't hold an edge after the factory edge was worn off. 

They either must have gotten bad ones or were hitting something in their wood as mine was still plenty sharp after 5 cords of splitting rounds on the ground over the past few days.


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## KiwiBro (Mar 20, 2015)




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## svk (Mar 20, 2015)

Awesome. Wish I knew what they were saying on those two difficult pieces.


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## benp (Mar 20, 2015)

KiwiBro said:


>




HELLS YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That guy went after it!!!!!

But...but....but......but....lol


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## svk (Mar 20, 2015)

benp said:


> But...but....but......but....lol




The haters have been pretty quiet around here since the Council maul brewha. Ha ha


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## Sawdust inspector (Mar 20, 2015)

KiwiBro said:


>




Get that guy a beer or 2. He deserves it.


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## bjorb (May 7, 2015)

Hey guys. I bought a new fiskars axe yesterday, more precisely the Fiskars x25. Was pretty exited about it, especially since it only received good reviews. But when I started using it I noticed after 5-10 hits that it started to get burred on the edge, is this normal and has this something to do with the weak steel I read more and more about? Or am I just unlucky and grabbed exactly the faulty one. I by the way didnt hit any stone and use a wooden block beneath my logs.


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## svk (May 7, 2015)

You definitely hit some type of rock or metal in the wood. Could have been something inside or there could have been rocks stuck to the outside of the rounds.


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## bjorb (May 7, 2015)

There definitely isnt any rock or metal in the logs. Ive had more regular axes and they all don't seem to have this problem. Its a solid piece of wood I use where I put my logs on, there cant be anything in it.


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## Ronaldo (May 7, 2015)

Other members have made mention of this same thing happening on their Fiskars splitters and are certain they are not striking anything hard, soooo, it could be a metal tempering that isnt quite right. I have not personally seen this with my X25 or my brothers and friends X25's and X27's.
You may have gotten a bum one?


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## zogger (May 7, 2015)

bjorb said:


> There definitely isnt any rock or metal in the logs. Ive had more regular axes and they all don't seem to have this problem. Its a solid piece of wood I use where I put my logs on, there cant be anything in it.



Seems excessive with short use. Check the top of your splitting block, it might have gotten pretty dirty from use in the past.

Fiskars has lifetime warranty, if you bought it local, maybe try a new one. Mine has never gotten that beat up before.


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## svk (May 7, 2015)

Zoom in on the pic. Those are definitely hard object contact marks. 

Fiskars will lose their edge over time but it sort of rounds off to an edge more like a butter knife.


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## svk (May 7, 2015)

Upon further thought, if the left side of the picture is the top of the axe it appears you are contacting foreign objects either on the top of the round or between the round and the splitting block. It doesn't take much of a rock to cause that. I have the same thing happen when I split on the ground.


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## Marshy (May 7, 2015)

Just some little pebbles left on your splitting block that fell off the sides of your rounds could be responsible for that. If your cut face of your blocks have dirt and small pebbles in them then it would result in the same if you split a couple of rounds with some rusty wire grown into it you would get the same. Just take your flat file an blend it back into the edge.


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## bjorb (May 7, 2015)

Thanks for the replies, really appreciate the quick responses. I will see further into this problem and probaly change the spliting block. Will the fiskars sharpener help removing the damaged/burred edge?


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## Trx250r180 (May 7, 2015)

A raker file will fix the edge of that axe,don't use a bench grinder ,the heat will de temper the edge .


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## Marshy (May 7, 2015)

Trx250r180 said:


> A raker file will fix the edge of that axe,don't use a bench grinder ,the heat will de temper the edge .


You are right but I think he was asking about the FISKARS sharpener. I wouldnt bother buying one. A good flat file tunes the edge very quickly.

You might not have to get rid of your current block just inspect it for imbedded pebbles and such...


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## tla100 (May 7, 2015)

Clowns at Wally world still have not got the x27 in. Chopping axe is still there. May have to order one online.


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## dancan (May 7, 2015)

bjorb said:


> Hey guys. I bought a new fiskars axe yesterday, more precisely the Fiskars x25. Was pretty exited about it, especially since it only received good reviews. But when I started using it I noticed after 5-10 hits that it started to get burred on the edge, is this normal and has this something to do with the weak steel I read more and more about? Or am I just unlucky and grabbed exactly the faulty one. I by the way didnt hit any stone and use a wooden block beneath my logs.



I wouldn't loose any sleep over it , I'll bet that it will split as good just like that as a sharp one does , if you're going to sharpen it , just use a file and get rid of the burr from the rolled over metal , a block of wood won't care if a splitting axe will shave or not ..... Just sayin , YMMV .


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## turnkey4099 (May 8, 2015)

tla100 said:


> Clowns at Wally world still have not got the x27 in. Chopping axe is still there. May have to order one online.



Is there any difference? I have looked at both (have an x27) and can see nothing obvious but I haven't been able to compare them at the same time.

Harry K


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## blacklocst (May 8, 2015)

IMO the x27 handle material feels of better quality than the other.


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## Marshy (May 8, 2015)

The orange grip on the X-27 is about the only difference besides colors. I think the handle is too slick without the orange grippy.


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## tla100 (May 8, 2015)

I thought the angle of the head was less aggressive, narrower at the rear. Not sure. Chopping axe seems too "slim" to pop the wood. Never had an x27 in hand or side by side.


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## tla100 (May 8, 2015)

chopping





Splitting. Wider head


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## Ronaldo (May 8, 2015)

tla100 said:


> I thought the angle of the head was less aggressive, narrower at the rear. Not sure. Chopping axe seems too "slim" to pop the wood. Never had an x27 in hand or side by side.


I think the "chopping axe" is an X17 and is definetely slimmer than the splitting axes.


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## Ronaldo (May 8, 2015)

Ronaldo said:


> I think the "chopping axe" is an X17 and is definetely slimmer than the splitting axes.


Looking at your pic, I guess its an X15, my bad!!


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## tla100 (May 8, 2015)

Well they do list a "28" chopping axe" with an all black handle also.

Not sure the difference between the "X" , the black handle line....or maybe that is it....heh


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## Marshy (May 8, 2015)

The black handle line does not carry the "X-##" designation for some reason and run about $10 cheaper. The X-1# series are for chopping and the X-2# series is splitting. I would like to get a X-15 or X-17 for limbing and driving wedges. I have the X-7 and it's just too short to do work with and it makes it somewhat dangerous IMO.


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## svk (May 8, 2015)

Are you sure on that? X17 is listed for splitting on many sites and x15 for chopping?


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## Ronaldo (May 8, 2015)

This an all black model and just says chopping axe on it. It is Very sharp and works great for chopping and reasonably well for splitting smaller easier to split species of wood.


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## Ronaldo (May 8, 2015)

Just looked things up here; X17 is a splitting axe with 23.5'' handle and has a swell on the face just like any of the fiskars (x25, x27 etc.)
The X15 is a chopping axe with 23.5" and smooth sides on the head.
Ain't the internet grand?


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## Philbert (May 8, 2015)

Fiskars has made lots of changes over the years, including names and colors, but also head shapes, etc. Hard to keep track.

As far as the slippery handle, two words: 'Hockey tape'.

Philbert


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## svk (May 8, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Fiskars has made lots of changes over the years, including names and colors, but also head shapes, etc. Hard to keep track.
> 
> As far as the slippery handle, two words: 'Hockey tape'.
> 
> Philbert


You are the king of product improvement ideas!


----------



## .404 (May 9, 2015)

epic.


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## Trx250r180 (May 9, 2015)

What ever happened to the op of this thread ? Has not checked in for a while .


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## svk (May 11, 2015)

Trx250r180 said:


> What ever happened to the op of this thread ? Has not checked in for a while .


Camping trip.


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## svk (May 14, 2015)

So here's one for you Fiskar fans to mull over...anybody have access to a new Fiskars still wearing the non slip coating on the head to test against a well worn model to see if that coating really matters? I think @zogger uses Teflon spray on his so that could be tested as well. Anyone???


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## USMC615 (May 14, 2015)

svk said:


> Camping trip.


...ya guessing or stating fact?? Lol


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## USMC615 (May 14, 2015)

Back on topic, never swung the solid black handled deal, but the two X27's I've got with orange grip handles...wouldn't trade 'em for nothing. I've got an X25 as well, he don't see near the action the 27's get. Then again at my height, don't wanna cleave me 'ol ankles either. The 27's are a damn good splittin machine. With their warranty, how can ya go wrong. Never had any over strike problems with mine one bit as far the handle goes. Win-win as far as I'm concerned.


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## USMC615 (May 14, 2015)

svk said:


> So here's one for you Fiskar fans to mull over...anybody have access to a new Fiskars still wearing the non slip coating on the head to test against a well worn model to see if that coating really matters? I think @zogger uses Teflon spray on his so that could be tested as well. Anyone???


...Just my opinion but I'd be highly skeptical, not sayin Zoggs is wrong, about any spray lube on the head lasting very long...especially in anything that doesn't cleave nice and straight. I would think friction would strip it off quick if splittin tougher woods, unless ya gotta case of spray. Just thinkin, but never tried any spray lube myself.


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## svk (May 14, 2015)

Well there's only one way to find out. 

I need to get my boys something a little smaller to get into splitting so considering a 17 or 25.


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## USMC615 (May 14, 2015)

svk said:


> Well there's only one way to find out.
> 
> I need to get my boys something a little smaller to get into splitting so considering a 17 or 25.



...Don't know how old the boys are, but I'd say the same. Probably get'em either or. If any age to them, I'd run 'em straight to the X25. Supervision on your behalf, they get the gun development and learn to swing a little heavier deal. Pay dividends in the future no doubt.


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## svk (May 14, 2015)

Older boys are 9 and 10. 9 yo is actually the larger of the two. Both are obsessed with anything sports related so a good splitting regiment will do them well. Maybe next year I can start them on a saw.


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## zogger (May 14, 2015)

svk said:


> So here's one for you Fiskar fans to mull over...anybody have access to a new Fiskars still wearing the non slip coating on the head to test against a well worn model to see if that coating really matters? I think @zogger uses Teflon spray on his so that could be tested as well. Anyone???



I now use teflon spray on all my axes and mauls, makes a huge difference, stuff cuts and splits easier, and then it doesn't get stuck as easy in a nasty one. Still on the original rattle can I bought, plus using it around the house and like on mower wheels as lube, tailgate hinges, door hinges, window regulators, sliding wood windows in the cabin..lotsa uses. When the pb blaster brand can gets empty, I'll try the DOW brand. 

Haven't done it yet, but thinking about getting some concentrated teflon designed to go in like car oil and treating my bar oil in the jug, just add some and shake it up well. That or Moly, whichever I can find cheaper for the most.


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## svk (May 14, 2015)

Do they still sell Slick 50?


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## USMC615 (May 14, 2015)

svk said:


> Older boys are 9 and 10. 9 yo is actually the larger of the two. Both are obsessed with anything sports related so a good splitting regiment will do them well. Maybe next year I can start them on a saw.


...There ya go. Let 'em have at the sports. I played baseball and football all through Little League to Senior League, then Jr High and High School baseball and football. Loved it, pitcher, first base in baseball, played defensive end in football...wish I could dial this soon to be 48 yr old body back in time. Lol. And yes, get'em to splittin with the axes in their off time. You'll teach 'em right posture, stance, strike, etc...give the real workout for the guns, not some trip to planet fitness.


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## zogger (May 14, 2015)

svk said:


> Older boys are 9 and 10. 9 yo is actually the larger of the two. Both are obsessed with anything sports related so a good splitting regiment will do them well. Maybe next year I can start them on a saw.



Old enough to be running a small one man bowsaw individually and a two man crosscut as a team. Still a sharp tool, and nice segue into motorized saws later.


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## svk (May 14, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> ...There ya go. Let 'em have at the sports. I played baseball and football all through Little League to Senior League, then Jr High and High School baseball and football. Loved it, pitcher, first base in baseball, played defensive end in football...wish I could dial this soon to be 48 yr old body back in time. Lol. And yes, get'em to splittin with the axes in their off time. You'll teach 'em right posture, stance, etc...give the real workout for the guns, not some trip to planet fitness.


They will do a lot of cutting, splitting, and hauling. Also my hunting cabin sits at the base of a very steep/high gravel hill and I intend up make a course up to the top and do a "warrior hill" race with them much like the native Americans used to do to prove who was the strongest brave in the tribe was. 

A family friend was a fantastic HS athlete. His dad used to give him a backpack full of rocks and have him run up ski hills to cross train in the summers. For a HS kid he was an absolute beast.


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## USMC615 (May 14, 2015)

svk said:


> Do they still sell Slick 50?


...I've got several spray cans, about a dozen, of Slick 50 One Lube spray, I bought several yrs ago. To be honest with ya, I really don't know if they sell it anymore, haven't had the need to hunt it. On another note...Pennzoil Z-4 was a damn good spray lubricant. I've got about 4 cans of it left over the yrs but don't know if they still offer it either.


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## Philbert (May 14, 2015)

How about wax?

Philbert


----------



## zogger (May 15, 2015)

svk said:


> Do they still sell Slick 50?



Apparently they do.


----------



## brenndatomu (May 15, 2015)

Philbert said:


> How about wax?
> 
> Philbert







???


----------



## turnkey4099 (May 15, 2015)

USMC615 said:


> Back on topic, never swung the solid black handled deal, but the two X27's I've got with orange grip handles...wouldn't trade 'em for nothing. I've got an X25 as well, he don't see near the action the 27's get. Then again at my height, don't wanna cleave me 'ol ankles either. The 27's are a damn good splittin machine. With their warranty, how can ya go wrong. Never had any over strike problems with mine one bit as far the handle goes. Win-win as far as I'm concerned.



I was working with Mike the other day. He has the black one, I have the x27. Used both in short order but only one swing with the black one. Somewhat of a different feel but I couldn't figure out just what. It was our last round and nothing was left for further tryout.

Harry K


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## svk (May 15, 2015)

Lawdy!!! There's rust on my Fiskars. Whatever shall we do?!


Split a cord up on the rock farm. No more rust.



Looks like it's time for a trip to the grinder 



Purdy again


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## tla100 (Jun 26, 2015)

Finally picked up a x27, well, it is just the black handle from Wally World, they finally got them in after a couple months or so. Seems like it "pops" better than my maul. Only tried on some very large ash rounds.


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## Relex (Jun 26, 2015)

I was out splitting and started with my Truper 8lbs maul that I got over this past winter..switched to the fiskars and shaking off the rust the first swing was an over strike. With the second swing the head snapped off which I'm surprised it didn't with the first. Sent this picture to fiskars and had a new replacement in no time.


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## USMC615 (Jun 26, 2015)

Relex said:


> I was out splitting and started with my Truper 8lbs maul that I got over this past winter..switched to the fiskars and shaking off the rust the first swing was an over strike. With the second swing the head snapped off which I'm surprised it didn't with the first. Sent this picture to fiskars and had a new replacement in no time.


...Fiskars has great customer service. No frills, no spills...they get it done. Haven't broken the handles on any of mine, but great to know if I do, it'll be taken care of with a simple pic.


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## Marshy (Jun 26, 2015)

svk said:


> Lawdy!!! There's rust on my Fiskars. Whatever shall we do?!
> View attachment 424883
> 
> Split a cord up on the rock farm. No more rust.
> ...


You know that "rock wood" isn't really a hard wood, it's stone lol.


----------



## sledge&wedge (Jun 26, 2015)

svk said:


> So here's one for you Fiskar fans to mull over...anybody have access to a new Fiskars still wearing the non slip coating on the head to test against a well worn model to see if that coating really matters? I think @zogger uses Teflon spray on his so that could be tested as well. Anyone???



It does make a difference. I tested mine out against my cousin's last fall. His has little to no coating left, and usually has a patina of rust on it as well, mine has just a tiny bit of wear at the edge but still feels smooth as butter. There was no difference in actual splitting, but the head on his definitely got stuck more often and got "more stuck," too. I guess if you're a real manly man and always bust rounds on the first hit, you wouldn't have to worry about the difference. I'm not a real manly man... all the time. Never tried teflon spray or any other lubricant on the head. Can't imagine it would hurt anything, but not sure how long your application would last before you need another squirt.


----------



## Philbert (Jun 26, 2015)

Crosscut sawyers used to carry a bottle of kerosene to lube their blades. . . .

Philbert


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## svk (Apr 27, 2016)

Man this thread was something else. 

It's hard to believe the amount of arguments we used to have around here based on Fiskars performance.


----------



## Marshy (Apr 27, 2016)

It still amazes me how much I can split with mine.


----------



## turnkey4099 (Apr 27, 2016)

Marshy said:


> It still amazes me how much I can split with mine.



I bought the first one around here, in less than two years 5 others did also based on trying mine. Just discovered another use for it. Had to dig out a broken water line. Fiskars makes an excellent tool for chopping sod into squares for easy lifting


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## Marine5068 (Apr 29, 2016)

Philbert said:


> Crosscut sawyers used to carry a bottle of kerosene to lube their blades. . . .
> 
> Philbert


That's because way back when in them there woods, that's the stuff they used to heat the tents or sod huts and to give them light too. 
Man, they probably used it as syrup on their flapjacks and beans as well...lol.
$2 a day and a place to lay my head? Sure I'll cut wood all day long and sleep in a sod hut with 20 other guys.


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## Marshy (Apr 29, 2016)

turnkey4099 said:


> I bought the first one around here, in less than two years 5 others did also based on trying mine. Just discovered another use for it. Had to dig out a broken water line. Fiskars makes an excellent tool for chopping sod into squares for easy lifting


Shovel never did me wrong for that type of job but what ever works. I know some guys here wouldn't even recommend it for splitting sod lol.


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## moondoggie (Apr 29, 2016)

Marshy said:


> Shovel never did me wrong for that type of job but what ever works. I know some guys here wouldn't even recommend it for splitting sod lol.


Machete is even better


----------



## zogger (Apr 29, 2016)

Marshy said:


> Shovel never did me wrong for that type of job but what ever works. I know some guys here wouldn't even recommend it for splitting sod lol.



AAAKK..hadn't thought about a long ago boss I absolutely hated for decades. One of the first jobs I had as a teenager, working for someone else and not just shoveling snow or raking leaves, etc. Ran a sod cutter and laid new sod. I have completely took up a lawn, after cutting it, loaded it all by hand on a flatbed, spread and raked truckloads of loam, and laid the whole thing with the old big rolls, not squares, by myself in one day, all 90 lbs of me. The whole time this big fat $%%&^&* SO %%^^&&*&*( sat in the shade shoveling fried chicken in and drinking beer. The day I found a super nice farmer to work for, man, most fun ever quitting knowing he had to work. My folks moved across state after that and to this day I wish I had moved back as soon as I had a car and went back to work for the nice farmer, he even told me I could inherit his beautiful old timey "farm everything" farm. But I didn't....

$%^&**(&^ sod.....aaaarrrrggghhhh!


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## Brushpile (Apr 29, 2016)

sledge&wedge said:


> tested mine out against my cousin's last fall. His has little to no coating left, and usually has a patina of rust on it as well,


So that's why mine started rusting after I sharpened it.
Well, that, and me leaving it in the bed of the pickup I guess. But it never even tried to rust until I put it on the belt sander.


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## sledge&wedge (May 2, 2016)

Brushpile said:


> So that's why mine started rusting after I sharpened it.
> Well, that, and me leaving it in the bed of the pickup I guess. But it never even tried to rust until I put it on the belt sander.



Even now almost a year after I made the post you replied to, my Fiskars hasn't seen a neither sharpener nor rust one time. Mine is always either in use or hanging in the barn though, so weather isn't affecting it at all. The cousin I was referring to leaves his laying in his splitting pile 24/7, and splits on gravel, so... His sees a bit more wear and tear than mine. I'm still convinced the coating matters, but I also think an X27 is still a pretty effective splitting tool with or without that pretty factory coating.


----------



## turnkey4099 (May 2, 2016)

sledge&wedge said:


> Even now almost a year after I made the post you replied to, my Fiskars hasn't seen a neither sharpener nor rust one time. Mine is always either in use or hanging in the barn though, so weather isn't affecting it at all. The cousin I was referring to leaves his laying in his splitting pile 24/7, and splits on gravel, so... His sees a bit more wear and tear than mine. I'm still convinced the coating matters, but I also think an X27 is still a pretty effective splitting tool with or without that pretty factory coating.



I bought mine very soon after the X27 came out. It has never seen even one day undercover, never sharpened and it still splits amazingly. Never any rust.


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## Brushpile (May 2, 2016)

I used mine to chop a stump out of the ground. I dug out around the stump and used it to cut the roots and it met a few rocks in the way which pitted the cutting edge. If I had known smoothing it out would make it rust, I would've let it be.


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## Marshy (May 3, 2016)

The coating is gone on mine as far as I can tell and I've sharpened the cutting edge with a file. I don't have any issues with rust because I put my axe away when I'm done using it. I did leave it outside one time for a few days/nights and it has some light surface rust but it quickly went away after using it and has yet to return. I guess what I'm saying is if you take care of it and put it away it won't rust. Leave it outside or chop tree roots and it will... How is that any different from and other steel splitting tool?


----------



## svk (May 3, 2016)

The nice thing about a Fiskars is that you don't have to worry about if it rusts, chips, etc. 

I've done about 40 cords with mine while splitting on the ground. I figured it's probably good for 80-100 cords at this rate before the head would need some major reshaping to be functional again.


----------



## Marshy (May 3, 2016)

I keep mine sharp with a flat file. It only needs a touch up once or twice a year if you split on a block and keep it out of the rocks.


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## Brushpile (May 3, 2016)

Marshy said:


> I guess what I'm saying is if you take care of it and put it away it won't rust. Leave it outside or chop tree roots and it will...


Yeah but, you talk about a bad ass root cutter though. Beats the fire out of a mattock.


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## Marshy (May 3, 2016)

Brushpile said:


> Yeah but, you talk about a bad ass root cutter though. Beats the fire out of a mattock.


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## turnkey4099 (May 3, 2016)

Brushpile said:


> Yeah but, you talk about a bad ass root cutter though. Beats the fire out of a mattock.



And last I heard tools were meant to be _used_ not babied.


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## Marshy (May 3, 2016)

I have a Fiskars Isocore maul on the way.


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## svk (Aug 29, 2018)

CTYank said:


> In your dreams. You, too, Steve-o (get a life, or a distributorship for your beloved.) IOW, yank me.
> 
> Thought mods flushed you, Woodcutter tv/Brush Ape. Let's see how long it takes them this time. Maybe they're short of entertainment?


bump for @chipper1


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## LondonNeil (Aug 29, 2018)

Next challenge Steve, say the L - axe word(or V word) and then see if you can count to 100 before he appears.


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## svk (Aug 29, 2018)

LMAO I know you guys love that guy. 

I think I will tag you over in the dedicated thread and he can provide some reading for you


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