# Homelite Super EZ Questoins



## woodword (Oct 13, 2003)

I have a Super EZ made in the sevenites I think. The UT Number is 10537 and the SN is 201290414. I took the rubber off the handle as someone had mentioned and it had three different stamps on the left inside handle 78, 79, and 80. 

I have been having problems with this saw. It did run great when you started it and for about 10 minutes until it got hot. Then it started to bog down under load and eventually quit. Pulling the choke half way out prolonged the failure. I replaced the fuel line, cleaned the air filter, precisely measured a 16:1 mix, rebuilt the carb, and it seemed to run better for a half day and then started boggin down again. I put a new spark plug in it, tightened some screws and bolts, etc. After replacing the spark plug, it wouldn't start. I checked my old one and found it to be a Champion DJ7J which I assume is hotter than the recommended DJ6J. The plug I replaced it with was an NGK BM7F. When I put the old plug back in, it tries to run more than with the NGK.

Now, I'm guessing that I have a spark problem and it's probably got to do with the ignition module? Its a 2X2X2 box that the spark plug wire comes out of. Do any of you have any ideas?

Thanks,

Wood


----------



## Jacob J. (Oct 13, 2003)

You might check the oil seals on that old Homelite.


----------



## shooter (Oct 14, 2003)

Hi Wood,

You’ve got a good start as the fuel line & carb diaphragms are always problem areas in these 20+ yr old Homelites. Let’s get you squared away on some of the other issues.

Plugs – The standard is Champion DJ6J, the higher heat range is DJ7J. NGK goes the other direction. The BM7F is the cooler range plug, a BM5F is the hotter plug.

Hi & Lo screw adjustments – The factory setting is 1 1/4 turns. As usual, turn the screw in gently until it bottoms & back out 1 1/4 turns.

Oil ratio – The Super EZ’s are all originally 32:1 saws, as spec’d by Homelite. I have my EZ’s adjusted for 32:1 using premium gas. Use a good quality air cooled engine mix, API-TC or JASO FC . Not oil injector or outboard mix.

You may wish to remove the muffler & inspect the exhaust port for carbon buildup. Buy a bottle of $2 fuel injector cleaner at Walmart & soak the muffler to remove some of the buildup.

Good Luck
Mike


----------



## pwhiteme (Sep 6, 2010)

*homelite super ez chainsaw*

Hi,

I have been trying to start my chainsaw. I put in new gas mixture, may not be exact, using new DJ8J champion plug. I have been pulling, and pulling,and pulling the cord. The machine turns easily enough but now after half a dozen turns I get a dark mixture dripping out of the exhaust?? Will not fire or even attempt to fire. Help.....

Patrick


----------



## lawnmowertech37 (Sep 6, 2010)

pwhiteme said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have been trying to start my chainsaw. I put in new gas mixture, may not be exact, using new DJ8J champion plug. I have been pulling, and pulling,and pulling the cord. The machine turns easily enough but now after half a dozen turns I get a dark mixture dripping out of the exhaust?? Will not fire or even attempt to fire. Help.....
> 
> Patrick



Patrick have you got a way to do a compression check on the engine ?


----------



## chainsawsmurf (Sep 21, 2010)

I was wondering. With this saw can you use a same mix as you would a stihl saw?


----------



## lawnmowertech37 (Sep 22, 2010)

chainsawsmurf said:


> I was wondering. With this saw can you use a same mix as you would a stihl saw?



The older homelites were not built to run on 50:1 ratio i dont care what homelite themselves say i would not use 50:1 they just want people to blow there motor so they can get a new one that is why they say use 50:1 in the older saws i know better

32:1 ratio no different ratio is recommended


----------



## Fish (Sep 22, 2010)

Look at the piston.


----------



## chainsawsmurf (Sep 23, 2010)

lawnmowertech37 said:


> The older homelites were not built to run on 50:1 ratio i dont care what homelite themselves say i would not use 50:1 they just want people to blow there motor so they can get a new one that is why they say use 50:1 in the older saws i know better
> 
> 32:1 ratio no different ratio is recommended



Thanks. I should have stated "using the stihl synthetic oil 50:1" "synthetic" being the key word. I guess some on here having old saws use that in their's with no problem.


----------



## Timberton (Sep 23, 2010)

*Top End*

Woodward: I agree with Fish... "look at the piston". You gave two key clues in your initial post that leads me to believe that the top-end is worn. You wrote that it got worse as the saw got hot and that you were able to keep it running with the choke partially on. Unfortunately, I believe that you'll find that you need new rings, and that the piston is scuffed/scored. Hopefully the cylinder is OK. It just doesn't take much excess heat and/or insufficient oil and/or too lean of a fuel mixture to damage pistons, rings and cylinders! It can happen even if you operate with the best of intentions. An accumulation of saw dust in the cylinder fins can lead to overheating and damage.


----------



## a. palmer jr. (Sep 23, 2010)

chainsawsmurf said:


> Thanks. I should have stated "using the stihl synthetic oil 50:1" "synthetic" being the key word. I guess some on here having old saws use that in their's with no problem.



I use synthetic (not Stihl) in my saws at 32:1. They seem to do just fine on that ratio. The leaner you go probably the more power but less engine life.


----------



## chainsawsmurf (Sep 23, 2010)

In all your saws or just the older ones? 32:1 newer saws should be ok with 50:1. I can see with more lubercation longer lasting saws tho. Doing this on phone so I hope this comes through! Can't see the fonts!


----------



## Gypo Logger (Sep 23, 2010)

If you need parts, I'd contact Jonathan Hobbs, he's a member here and his user name is Homedelightman. 
Jonathan I believe has the biggest homelight collection in the world.
John


----------



## chainsawsmurf (Sep 23, 2010)

Yukonsawman said:


> If you need parts, I'd contact Jonathan Hobbs, he's a member here and his user name is Homedelightman.
> Jonathan I believe has the bgiggest homelight collection in the world.
> John


Great! Thanks for the info.


----------



## HomeDelight Man (Sep 23, 2010)

Hey John,
I think you may be blowing smoke again.... What ever happpened to the SEZ you have that I named the "Husky Killer"?
On a serious note, I would also check the piston and cylinder. Is your ignition module blue? These were known to become intermittent, and are hard to find. If you have a black ignition with a lead running under the flywheel, you should remove the flywheel and check the points.

Jonathan


----------



## buzz sawyer (Sep 23, 2010)

woodword said:


> I have a Super EZ made in the sevenites I think. The UT Number is 10537 and the SN is 201290414. I took the rubber off the handle as someone had mentioned and it had three different stamps on the left inside handle 78, 79, and 80.
> 
> I have been having problems with this saw. It did run great when you started it and for about 10 minutes until it got hot. Then it started to bog down under load and eventually quit. Pulling the choke half way out prolonged the failure. I replaced the fuel line, cleaned the air filter, precisely measured a 16:1 mix, rebuilt the carb, and it seemed to run better for a half day and then started boggin down again. I put a new spark plug in it, tightened some screws and bolts, etc. After replacing the spark plug, it wouldn't start. I checked my old one and found it to be a Champion DJ7J which I assume is hotter than the recommended DJ6J. The plug I replaced it with was an NGK BM7F. When I put the old plug back in, it tries to run more than with the NGK.
> 
> ...



Never had this happen with my SEZ but maybe the fuel cap vent is plugged? Have you tried removing and replacing it, then see if it runs better for a while. Maybe some dirt got back into the carb? Had that happen on a line trimmer recently. 

Regarding mix, mine says to mix 1/2 pint sae 30 per gallon - 16:1. After 30 years of running it with that mix I changed to 50:1 synthetic. No problems so far.


----------



## a. palmer jr. (Sep 23, 2010)

chainsawsmurf said:


> In all your saws or just the older ones? 32:1 newer saws should be ok with 50:1. I can see with more lubercation longer lasting saws tho. Doing this on phone so I hope this comes through! Can't see the fonts!



I usually mix up a gallon at a time at 32:1 and use it in everything that I have that's 2 cycle. I have a couple of newer Husqvarnas and they seem to be all right with it. I put it in my Lawn Boy, the Weed eater, and my wife's leaf blower. I've been using the Lawn Boy since new in 1982 and an old Super 2 since the late 70s and they're still going.


----------



## Eccentric (Oct 2, 2010)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I usually mix up a gallon at a time at 32:1 and use it in everything that I have that's 2 cycle. I have a couple of newer Husqvarnas and they seem to be all right with it. I put it in my Lawn Boy, the Weed eater, and my wife's leaf blower. I've been using the Lawn Boy since new in 1982 and an old Super 2 since the late 70s and they're still going.



Same here. I'm too scattered to keep track of different mixes. I wanna make *sure* that I don't straight-gas my 2-stroke stuff. *Every* piece of 2-stroke ***, as well as my dirt bike *all* all get the same 32/1 synthetic mix. The only 2-stroke in my stable that gets a different mix is the 88HP Evinrude V4 on the boat (50/1 TCWIII synthetic)....................and that gas gets mixed in the tank *imediately* at fill up time. Definitely don't wanna straight-gas *that* engine...


----------



## lawnmowertech37 (Oct 2, 2010)

HomeDelight Man said:


> Hey John,
> I think you may be blowing smoke again.... What ever happpened to the SEZ you have that I named the "Husky Killer"?
> On a serious note, I would also check the piston and cylinder. Is your ignition module blue? These were known to become intermittent, and are hard to find. If you have a black ignition with a lead running under the flywheel, you should remove the flywheel and check the points.
> 
> Jonathan



Not really on them blue coils


----------



## blackrath70 (May 14, 2011)

pwhiteme said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have been trying to start my chainsaw. I put in new gas mixture, may not be exact, using new DJ8J champion plug. I have been pulling, and pulling,and pulling the cord. The machine turns easily enough but now after half a dozen turns I get a dark mixture dripping out of the exhaust?? Will not fire or even attempt to fire. Help.....


 I got an old saw out of storage from my auto teacher and it took well over an hour of pulling to get it to run more then 10 seconds. that dark mix is just the unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust port. runs decent now that i put a new plug, fresh gas and some carb cleaner through it. still a little rough, so i'm rebuilding the carb later this week and that should be it. other then that they're nice little saws.


----------



## a. palmer jr. (May 14, 2011)

chainsawsmurf said:


> In all your saws or just the older ones? 32:1 newer saws should be ok with 50:1. I can see with more lubercation longer lasting saws tho. Doing this on phone so I hope this comes through! Can't see the fonts!


 
I have a fairly new MS290 and use 32:1 with Klotz Super Techniplate. I've seen too many of the newer saws that run leaner and burn the pistons. I prefer to be safer rather than to be tearing down my saws all the time.


----------

