# Best grinder



## super rube (Jan 31, 2021)

Have several chains that need grinding (dirt,rocks etc). Been hand filing for 40plus years but want a good grinder to add to my arsenal. The semington is too $$$$. I like the look of the economec super jolley and the 510 Oregon. I would use it fairly often as I cut a lot of wood for my wood boiler as well as my dads wood for his. I’m thinking no more than 500 bucks. Any advice ?


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## Ryan'smilling (Jan 31, 2021)

The super Jolly is the same as the Oregon 620. The Jolly star is the 520. Both great grinders. 620 will save you some time by clamping for you. 

If you want the best grinder that isn't a square grinder it's probably the stihl USG, but I think they're more like $600+.


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## Skeans (Jan 31, 2021)

super rube said:


> Have several chains that need grinding (dirt,rocks etc). Been hand filing for 40plus years but want a good grinder to add to my arsenal. The semington is too $$$$. I like the look of the economec super jolley and the 510 Oregon. I would use it fairly often as I cut a lot of wood for my wood boiler as well as my dads wood for his. I’m thinking no more than 500 bucks. Any advice ?



Here’s the biggest question you need to answer first what sort of chain are you grinding? You say a Simington grinder well that does square only. Then you say a Tecomec Super Jolly/ Oregon grinder well they only do round so which are you doing?


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## super rube (Jan 31, 2021)

Full chisel chain , both full comp on my 562xp and skip on my 372xp (The legend I might add) usually RC chain from woodland pro and Oregon LGX. 7/32 file


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## Skeans (Jan 31, 2021)

super rube said:


> Full chisel chain , both full comp on my 562xp and skip on my 372xp (The legend I might add) usually RC chain from woodland pro and Oregon LGX. 7/32 file



That’s round, sometimes here on the west coast chisel only refers to square. If it was me skip the full skip chain and pickup a Tecomec Super Jolly the setup is very simple to do.


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## super rube (Jan 31, 2021)

Skeans said:


> That’s round, sometimes here on the west coast chisel only refers to square. If it was me skip the full skip chain and pickup a Tecomec Super Jolly the setup is very simple to do.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah I’m leaning toward the super jolly. So , a full skip chain can’t be sharpened on the super jolly , just full comp chain ?


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## Skeans (Jan 31, 2021)

super rube said:


> Yeah I’m leaning toward the super jolly. So , a full skip chain can’t be sharpened on the super jolly , just full comp chain ?



No it can, any combo of cutters can be but you’ll be less likely to be filing anymore there’s less call for a full skip chain. With full skip your main gain is you can sometimes use a smaller power head with a longer bar but you will sacrifice speed and smoothness.


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## Philbert (Jan 31, 2021)

Welcome to A.S.!



Ryan'smilling said:


> The Jolly star is the 520.


They are very _similar_: the Oregon 520-120 has a wheel wear adjustment feature that the Jolly Star does not.

Bear in mind that the quality of the grinding wheels matter too - avoid the cheap 'clone' grinders. 

I would choose the Oregon 520 if that fits in your budget. For a basic, economy choice I would go with this one (standard size, made in Italy, good wheels / no light, no 'down angle' option, no wheel wear feature):








Tecomec Compact Chainsaw chain grinder Bench sharpener compare to Oregon 520-120 | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tecomec Compact Chainsaw chain grinder Bench sharpener compare to Oregon 520-120 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com





More tips on use, etc. here:





511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?


I read some of the threads on tweaking the Northern Tool grinders, and thought that we ought to have one for the venerable Oregon 511A (and related Italian grinders). This model does not have the same quality issues as the knock-offs, and I know that it has been replaced by the 511AX, but there...




www.arboristsite.com





Philbert


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## AKTrailDog (Jan 31, 2021)

This is my set up and current sharpening project (~60 chains).
I've had this grinder for 13 yrs and have never had any issues, haven't even replaced anything. I have been using the CBN wheels for years and love them as well. 
I've used Oregon grinders (not a fan bc they don't clamp as well) and have also used Silveys for years (more expensive, cost benefit isn't there for me for personal use).
Not sure on cost for this grinder, got it as a parting gift but maybe 2-250? I've spent $350 on the wheels and have had them almost as long as the grinder. Got the stihl breaker and spinner for $100 5 yrs ago.


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## Philbert (Jan 31, 2021)

AKTrailDog said:


> I've had this grinder for 13 yrs . . .





AKTrailDog said:


> I've used Oregon grinders (not a fan bc they don't clamp as well) . . .


That is a Tecomec grinder. They make most of the Oregon grinders, and are often identical, aside from color, and a few features. 

That one is identical to my Oregon 511A. 

There have been some different chain clamping vises on both brands through the years. 

Philbert


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## AKTrailDog (Jan 31, 2021)

Philbert said:


> That is a Tecomec grinder. They make most of the Oregon grinders, and are often identical, aside from color, and a few features.
> 
> That one is identical to my Oregon 511A.
> 
> ...


Correct, I don't know what it is with the newer ones. I had 2 Oregon grinders, not sure of model numbers, at work in the last 2-3 yrs and there were a few of those features I wasn't a fan of. Should've clarified myself a bit more.


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## Philbert (Jan 31, 2021)

The Oregon 511A was the 'classic' - identical to your Tecomec FL136, and sold under some other brand names. It is the one that most of the 'clone' grinders are modeled after.

The Oregon 511AX had the 'self-centering' vise that some high volume users had problems with. This was also used on some Tecomec branded models.

The current, Oregon 520 uses a modified version of the 511A vise that clamps from both sides.


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## super rube (Feb 1, 2021)

That being said would you guys say the Tecomec super jolley with hydraulic clamp is a good choice ?


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## Ryan'smilling (Feb 1, 2021)

super rube said:


> That being said would you guys say the Tecomec super jolley with hydraulic clamp is a good choice ?



I sure like mine.


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## super rube (Feb 1, 2021)

Ryan'smilling said:


> I sure like mine.


Y’all just don’t know how nice it is to ask questions and chat bout chainsaws and such with other folks who know something about the subject. I started cutting timber with my gramps at the age of 14. He retired when I was 18 and wanted me to take over his logging business. I was stupid and went to work at the local sawmill as a lumber grader. Have been in metal fabrication since age 22 but still my favorite thing to do is operate a well cutting chainsaw. Having a wood boiler gives me much saw time. I also do some tree work for the free wood. Very few loggers left around upstate S.C. Anymore. The ones that are left are not that saw savvy with all the modern felling equipment they have now. It’s got so bad that around here the people who have even seen a chain saw think that the longer the bar the faster it cuts. Yes you heard me right. I just call them Yankee flat lander people. I’ve always said a man ain’t no kind of man if he ain’t got land and can run a chain saw. Y’all keep up the good conversation as I really enjoy it.


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## super rube (Feb 1, 2021)

Here’s ol’ painless. 21 years old and still has the original plug ,air filter, I cut at least 4-5 cords per year with her plus that much more for my dad. Stihl ultra oil and ethanol free gas !!! I sometimes call her “Legend”. 372XP I’d rather fight than switch


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## Philbert (Feb 1, 2021)

super rube said:


> That being said would you guys say the Tecomec super jolley with hydraulic clamp is a good choice ?


It could be. Personally, I am a believer in the ‘simpler is better’ philosophy, so I like the basic vise, unless you plan on doing a high volume of chains.

Philbert


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## sean donato (Feb 1, 2021)

I have the Oregon 511a. I had the chance to jump up to the hydro model, but declined. I've always been very happy with it, and have never seen the need for the hydro clamp personally. I'm sure Phill had a link, but about the most useful thing you can do to it is add reverse if your able. Makes life a lot easier imo. Just need to watch out for the sparks flying back at you lol


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## Philbert (Feb 1, 2021)

Philbert does not endorse the reverse switch hack/mod; 'safety guy'. But it is posted in a few of the grinder threads.

Philbert


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## capetrees (Feb 1, 2021)

Ryan'smilling said:


> The super Jolly is the same as the Oregon 620. The Jolly star is the 520. Both great grinders. 620 will save you some time by clamping for you.
> 
> If you want the best grinder that isn't a square grinder it's probably the stihl USG, but I think they're more like $600+.


I like how the Stihl locks the chain in place and the tooth doesn't tip when the grinder wheel is applied like my Oregon 511AX. The Oregon doesn't seem to keep the chain from tipping side to side slightly which of course, changes the angles and pitch.


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## sean donato (Feb 1, 2021)

Guess mine is the 511ax.


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## northmanlogging (Feb 1, 2021)

super rube said:


> Y’all just don’t know how nice it is to ask questions and chat bout chainsaws and such with other folks who know something about the subject. I started cutting timber with my gramps at the age of 14. He retired when I was 18 and wanted me to take over his logging business. I was stupid and went to work at the local sawmill as a lumber grader. Have been in metal fabrication since age 22 but still my favorite thing to do is operate a well cutting chainsaw. Having a wood boiler gives me much saw time. I also do some tree work for the free wood. Very few loggers left around upstate S.C. Anymore. The ones that are left are not that saw savvy with all the modern felling equipment they have now. It’s got so bad that around here the people who have even seen a chain saw think that the longer the bar the faster it cuts. Yes you heard me right. I just call them Yankee flat lander people. I’ve always said a man ain’t no kind of man if he ain’t got land and can run a chain saw. Y’all keep up the good conversation as I really enjoy it.


Well now, lets not get me started on long bars vs short bars....

But I will say a big power head and a long bar will save time and energy over a short bar in the same wood. 

A long bar on a small-medium power head is just a great way to ruin a clutch.


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## super rube (Feb 13, 2021)

northmanlogging said:


> Well now, lets not get me started on long bars vs short bars....
> 
> But I will say a big power head and a long bar will save time and energy over a short bar in the same wood.
> 
> A long bar on a small-medium power head is just a great way to ruin a clutch.


Anyone know who has the best price on the Tecomec superjolly sharpener ? Maverick lawnmower supply is the best price I can find.


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## Ryan'smilling (Feb 13, 2021)

super rube said:


> Anyone know who has the best price on the Tecomec superjolly sharpener ? Maverick lawnmower supply is the best price I can find.



They had the best price when I bought mine.


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## super rube (Feb 21, 2021)

Skeans said:


> No it can, any combo of cutters can be but you’ll be less likely to be filing anymore there’s less call for a full skip chain. With full skip your main gain is you can sometimes use a smaller power head with a longer bar but you will sacrifice speed and smoothness.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## super rube (Feb 21, 2021)

Skeans said:


> Here’s the biggest question you need to answer first what sort of chain are you grinding? You say a Simington grinder well that does square only. Then you say a Tecomec Super Jolly/ Oregon grinder well they only do round so which are you doing?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Got the super jolly. Love it !! Now a more important topic. I have a 562XP and a 372XP ( the legend) both with full wrap handle and nice huge double dawgs. My opinion too much saw for my son to learn saws with. I have a 350 I got from my dad that’s a terrible leaker but would be just the right size for a beginner. I want to trade it in for a good saw that’s around the 50cc class. What are yalls recommendations? I’m sure after a little while he’ll soon want to move up to the big boy saws but just needs something smaller to get his confidence and learning how to handle a saw. Mostly for firewood by the way. Thanks


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## Philbert (Feb 21, 2021)

super rube said:


> I have a 350 I got from my dad that’s a terrible leaker but would be just the right size for a beginner.


Really a topic for another thread. But can that saw be repaired? Great saws, and with the family connection, might be worth paying someone to fix it up? Keep it in the family?

Philbert


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## JD Guy (Jun 25, 2022)

super rube said:


> Got the super jolly. Love it !! Now a more important topic. I have a 562XP and a 372XP ( the legend) both with full wrap handle and nice huge double dawgs. My opinion too much saw for my son to learn saws with. I have a 350 I got from my dad that’s a terrible leaker but would be just the right size for a beginner. I want to trade it in for a good saw that’s around the 50cc class. What are yalls recommendations? I’m sure after a little while he’ll soon want to move up to the big boy saws but just needs something smaller to get his confidence and learning how to handle a saw. Mostly for firewood by the way. Thanks


super rube, how do you like your super jolly after having used it for a while?

So, I have been looking at adding a chain grinder for cleaning up rocked or metal detecting chains  Since myself and both sons cut firewood for personal use it would be a big help and time saver. Is the Oregon 520 or Tecomec still the best recommendation and price point? We run primarily.325 and 3/8 chains. Thankful for any replies and if I should post in a separate thread please let me know.


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## Philbert (Jun 25, 2022)

You have to decide on price point. But the Oregon 520-120 grinder is the one that others compare themselves to. It has a few more features, such as wheel wear compensation, than the others. And comes with high quality wheels. 

If the additional features are not important to you, I would consider one of the other Oregon or Tecomec full sized grinders of that style.

Philbert


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## JD Guy (Jun 25, 2022)

@Philbert Thanks, I think that's the direction I will go then, 520-120.


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## Stihl 041S (Jun 26, 2022)

Get a CBN wheel.......money well spent. 
And keep it clean. Should be a dull color. Shiny means it will cause heat


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## Philbert (Jun 26, 2022)

I am an outlier on CBN wheels. I have had a better experience with quality aluminum oxide grinding wheels (Oregon, Tecomec, MoleMab, Total, etc.) that are frequently dressed to expose fresh abrasive. 

Also, check out the ‘Oregon 511A’ thread for ‘tricks and tips’ that apply to all similar grinders. 






511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?


I read some of the threads on tweaking the Northern Tool grinders, and thought that we ought to have one for the venerable Oregon 511A (and related Italian grinders). This model does not have the same quality issues as the knock-offs, and I know that it has been replaced by the 511AX, but there...




www.arboristsite.com





Philbert


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## sean donato (Jun 26, 2022)

CBN wheels arnt really needed for the average guy. I've had pretty long life out of the pink Oregon wheels. I mean years worth of sharpening, for me, family, friends and the occasional neighbor. I do more sharpening by hand then anything, but it's nice to bring a chain back with the machine or a rocked chain back up with the machine.


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## Stihl 041S (Jun 26, 2022)

I like the CBN because the radius stays correct. 
And the grit sharp longer, before cleaning/dressing........
I had a dresser to dress a radius. But cost more than the grinder. 
And most folks don’t check their radius 

Single edge razor blades perpendicular to the axis works great. 

But I was a tool and cutter grinder. Lol


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## Stihl 041S (Jun 26, 2022)

sean donato said:


> CBN wheels arnt really needed for the average guy. I've had pretty long life out of the pink Oregon wheels. I mean years worth of sharpening, for me, family, friends and the occasional neighbor. I do more sharpening by hand then anything, but it's nice to bring a chain back with the machine or a rocked chain back up with the machine.


You are a Filer. I’m a grinder. 
I never file. Lol
I have a grinder for each size. 
And a CBN wheel means you can grind just enough to sharpen it. Like filing. 
Unless you go to a dealer and they put the nephew they can’t fire on the grinder, because he can’t turn a wrench.


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## JD Guy (Jun 26, 2022)

Stihl 041S said:


> You are a Filer. I’m a grinder.
> I never file. Lol
> I have a grinder for each size.
> And a CBN wheel means you can grind just enough to sharpen it. Like filing.
> Unless you go to a dealer and they put the nephew they can’t fire on the grinder, because he can’t turn a wrench.


That's one other reason that I'm going to grind my own chains. Over the years the chains have come back burned, angles incorrectly ground, some cutters not touched, and so on. At least if a chain that I grind is wrong I've got no one else to blame!


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## Philbert (Jun 26, 2022)

Stihl 041S said:


> I like the CBN because the radius stays correct.



Of course, the other side of that equation, is that I can custom grind radii (radiuses?) for different chains or cutting profiles, if I want to experiment or get creative!

Philbert


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## Stihl 041S (Jun 26, 2022)

Philbert said:


> Of course, the other side of that equation, is that I can custom grind radii (radiuses?) for different chains or cutting profiles, if I want to experiment or get creative!
> 
> Philbert


I can dress wheels to different angles..........
All diamond and CBN wheels were dressed round and concentric to the spindle. 
But I do know what you mean. 
The custom does intrigue me. And regular wheels will do it. 
I had to match radii to angles.


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## Stihl 041S (Jun 26, 2022)

JD Guy said:


> That's one other reason that I'm going to grind my own chains. Over the years the chains have come back burned, angles incorrectly ground, some cutters not touched, and so on. At least if a chain that I grind is wrong I've got no one else to blame!


When I first started doing them for a friend he said grinding takes too much. 
I changed angles and cleaned the top and bottom of the tooth and didn’t touch the center. 
Never said another word and is happy. Lol

I finally got friends to change chains as soon as they dull. 
Then there is little to clean up. 
And they cut more wood. Lol


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## Philbert (Jun 26, 2022)

There ARE people who overheat cutters with grinders. 

There ARE people who hog off more cutter material than necessary. 

But there ARE chains where removing the damaged parts requires removing a lot of metal, whether by grinder, file, etc. I see this more with full-chisel teeth, where the less supported leading point gets bent, and the sharp, outside edge, where the top and bottom plates meet, gets damaged. 

I have had to grind back almost half a cutter on some chains, to get back to clean metal. 

Philbert


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## Tulameendude (Jun 27, 2022)

JD Guy said:


> @Philbert Thanks, I think that's the direction I will go then, 520-120.


Thats the one I use...Works great and I love it!!


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## JD Guy (Jun 28, 2022)

Well, the Oregon 520-120 is on order from American Forestry and should arrive by this Thursday. Price was $370 and no sales tax and no shipping on orders over $75. I think I waited a couple of years too long to buy this as I remember it being around $329 but could be mistaken on that.

Thanks for the advice y'all. I'm sure there will be a learning curve so I will start on my worst chain


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