# No face Coos Bay



## Cfaller (Sep 8, 2013)

*For head leaner's only!!!!!*

In the "cutting oak tree" thread some of us talked about a no face coos bay cut. I don't think a lot of Faller's know about this, but is a useful tool to have stored upstairs 

View attachment 313671

A leaning lodge pole pine. It is leaning hard enough that roots are starting to pull out of the ground. I had to cut it so I wasn't standing on the root ball.

View attachment 313672

Lay out of the cuts. 

View attachment 313673

Most leaner also have some side lean also, cut that side first. Or if the wind is blowing cut the leeward side first.

View attachment 313674

All wedged up. I missed my lay out some. The hardest thing with this cut is getting the two side cuts on the same plain. If they are off, it will slow down the back cut. Put your wedges as far forward as you can or you'll be blowing colorful chips. :mad2:


View attachment 313675

The end result.


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## madhatte (Sep 9, 2013)

Had to look at all of the pics nice and slow, but I get it. Thanks! I have a leaner that needs cut that I might try that on. I especially like the tip about putting the wedges as far forward as possible. Probably wouldn't have thought of that on my own.


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## twochains (Sep 9, 2013)

I understand what you are doing and it is effective. I wish there was there was some sort of way to sit down and discuss this cut w/o worrying who is reading that might go out and try it and get hurt if they find some way to screw it up. 

I like the cut...honestly I do, and will use it some. I'm biting my tongue as to what I really want to say though. Honestly though I don't think there is anyway to discuss it w/o people arguing or saying, "well what if someone reads this"? :msp_scared:

And again I think it's a nice job and well executed.


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## imagineero (Sep 9, 2013)

might as well throw this in here too







I've used this cut a heap of times but never thought of the wedges. I've always tried to factor the side lean into the main lean and point the holding wood in that direction. Sometimes you can get the strip down to just 3 or 4 inches. I'll be definitely using the wedges in future.

Shaun


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## Cfaller (Sep 9, 2013)

twochains said:


> I understand what you are doing and it is effective. I wish there was there was some sort of way to sit down and discuss this cut w/o worrying who is reading that might go out and try it and get hurt if they find some way to screw it up.
> 
> I like the cut...honestly I do, and will use it some. I'm biting my tongue as to what I really want to say though. Honestly though I don't think there is anyway to discuss it w/o people arguing or saying, "well what if someone reads this"? :msp_scared:
> 
> And again I think it's a nice job and well executed.



Most of the cuts we talk about here are in published books. This one is. It just doesn't go into the little tricks or tips as much as we do. There are other cuts which members have posted that are in published books, that I won't post on here. Some of those will get you in a lot of trouble quickly because of what they are trying to do with the tree.




imagineero said:


> might as well throw this in here too
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks


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## rwoods (Sep 9, 2013)

twochains said:


> I understand what you are doing and it is effective. I wish there was there was some sort of way to sit down and discuss this cut w/o worrying who is reading that might go out and try it and get hurt if they find some way to screw it up.
> 
> I like the cut...honestly I do, and will use it some. I'm biting my tongue as to what I really want to say though. Honestly though I don't think there is anyway to discuss it w/o people arguing or saying, "well what if someone reads this"? :msp_scared:
> 
> And again I think it's a nice job and well executed.



TC, how about something like this stamped on every post? 

*WARNING:* _The techniques herein described and discussed can and will result in death or serious injury. These techniques should not be attempted by anyone other than a well-seasoned professional faller._ 

Nah, it would probably just tempt folks like honey to a fly. :bang: If you can't post this thread here towards the professional where else can you? Can you keep folks like me from reading and trying it? No, unless you oke:. Ron

PS I'll leave this cut to you pros. It certainly isn't a cut for this firewood hack as it appears it may operate much like a trigger (without a nice conservative hinge, I am too old for triggers) and I would probably misjudge the side load and dump the tree on me or have the tree hit me when it bounces off the ground or kicks back from the tree I laid it on.


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## treeslayer2003 (Sep 9, 2013)

Ron, I don't think it you and Jon and guys like you that worry us so bad. I have seen 12 or more guests at one time, they cannot even ask ?????. but we cannot protect everyone and this is the logging n forestry forum so..... now what happened to that white oak guy? that gets me, I guess we'll never know.


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## twochains (Sep 9, 2013)

Thing is that the cut listed above is considered "acceptable" by the Pro's on here...well I like my way...basically the same deal but yet I can't even discuss the technique I and many others in hardwood country use to handle leaners W/O starting a pissing match. All I want to know is why is the Coos Bay non face cut is acceptable but the "Kiss of Death" bore cut method is considered just one foot closer to the grave. 

IMO there is nothing "safer" about cutting the sides out narrowing your tag front then back cutting and leaving a post as it breaks over. My way...and I am saying "My" way due to the fact that the people who actually use the method won't admit it on here due to being slammed for such foolishness...

As I was saying, "my" way completely elliminates the heart leaving a front tag and rear trigger...(1) fricken cut and pop the trigger...that's it. Yet that method is considered dangerous and I will probably get my hand smacked for even discussing it. Oh well.

CFaller...dude in NO way am I dissing you for your work at all period...I would just like a clear reason as to why the Non Faced Coos Bay is acceptable and the "kiss of Death" isn't.


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## treeslayer2003 (Sep 9, 2013)

I have seen what ya talkin bout bro. IMO it best on pine and smaller sticks. I suppose there is a chance of split if one left to much "tang". and no I don't see much difference between the two. I guess the deal is the inexpierianced trying these things. ya know we all ran a guy off a while back for talkin bout something simaler, now I wish he stuck around to talk about it. we mighta tought him somthin or vice versa.


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## twochains (Sep 9, 2013)

rwoods said:


> TC, how about something like this stamped on every post?
> 
> *WARNING:* _The techniques herein described and discussed can and will result in death or serious injury. These techniques should not be attempted by anyone other than a well-seasoned professional faller._



I like it Ron! :msp_thumbup:


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## lfnh (Sep 9, 2013)

twochains said:


> I understand what you are doing and it is effective. I wish there was there was some sort of way to sit down and discuss this cut w/o worrying who is reading that might go out and try it and get hurt if they find some way to screw it up.
> 
> I like the cut...honestly I do, and will use it some. I'm biting my tongue as to what I really want to say though. Honestly though I don't think there is anyway to discuss it w/o people arguing or saying, "well what if someone reads this"? :msp_scared:
> 
> And again I think it's a nice job and well executed.



TC, See your point.
Quite a while back stuff like this could get discussed without blood letting. Partly different group of people, smaller, less bad you tube crap getting thrown up. Less of the "this is the way am taking this down, what do ya think, it'll work, seen this done on boob tube and they got away with it". No thanks, tl,dnr.
Lookup Slopping Backcut threads from HBRN. Pages of bad stuff. Before that, same topic , done in a page or two. Same with stump reading. Used to be some interesting stuff. Bet more that a few 'guests' didn't really get what Bitzer said about junky hearts and this Coos strip cut. Oops. too late didn't check. Similar trees, never the same. 
some might put a in

Group may be another way for discussing stuff. Problem is lot couldn't read/post without joining. 
1 cents worth


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## bustedup (Sep 9, 2013)

I get what ya saying Clint .......me personally I kinda like a face and hinge so less chance of lateral movement and missing the lay ......but that juss me bro


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## twochains (Sep 9, 2013)

Ifnh, I couldn't agree more! I would definitely vote for using a "Group" as a discussion area. There are ALOT of Pro's on here that are tight lipped as to there techniques...and I understand that due to region, timber species, long bar/short bar...yadda yadda...that you don't want to go throwing tips out in the wind and have someone less than capable get hurt or killed. I couldn't agree more with ya! :msp_thumbup:

I wish I could learn some stuff from the guys on here. Bitzer in my opinion is just out of this World as far as technique and being able to really use different technique to his advantage. Quite the technician right there! I can call that dude up and discuss cuts. Wouldn't it be nice to have a group where stuff like "Advanced techiques" can be discussed? 

That brings me to a thought...when I was cutting a FS blowdown unit, I had like (40) major head leaners and (5) of the leaners were so compromised on their backs due to fixing to chair on the stump. I know my vids aren't that good on the average...but I would have really liked to have videoed cutting all those leaners...but I couldn't! I was kinda upset about it to. Everything went so well it was crazy...Hell I even cut a 24" 100ft tall leaner right in front of the FS Forester...now that was a good day...no footage and no proof...all because I was afraid of being slammed and afraid of the wrong person going out and trying to emulate what I had done.

Thanks Ifnh...sorry so long winded.


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## treeslayer2003 (Sep 9, 2013)

I wanted to form a group awhile back but no one interested. thing is ya gotta get people to join in order to talk to them.


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## Gologit (Sep 9, 2013)

Use what works for you. Use what you're comfortable with and feel safe with. There are a lot of methods that seem at first glance to be a little goofy but might possibly work under certain situations. I don't use them because they don't fit the terrain, the wood I'm in, or anything else. But I remember them and file them away...just in case. 
There a lot of methods that seem to involve too much monkey-motion and too much time...but I'm not the one cutting the tree. Some of them are almost funny and don't really guarantee the results you're looking for . Too many people keep looking for that sure fire automatic "If I do this, the tree will do that" technique. If any of you find it please let me know. I'm still looking.

If some of you were working for me we might discuss a change in cutting style but only in the interests of safety and production. If you're getting enough wood on the ground, safely and efficiently, to keep the boss happy and the money coming in it doesn't matter if you drop down on all fours and gnaw the log off at the stump with your teeth. Safety counts. Production counts. The rest is just window dressing.

And for whatever it's worth...there are times when I wish I could cut smaller wood and not have to play mountain goat on cow-face ground. Some of you guys don't know how easy you have it. So there.


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## roberte (Sep 9, 2013)

twochains said:


> Ifnh, I couldn't agree more! I would definitely vote for using a "Group" as a discussion area. There are ALOT of Pro's on here that are tight lipped as to there techniques...and I understand that due to region, timber species, long bar/short bar...yadda yadda...that you don't want to go throwing tips out in the wind and have someone less than capable get hurt or killed. I couldn't agree more with ya! :msp_thumbup:
> 
> nothing wrong with sharing info or being tight lipped
> 
> ...



Interesting, CFaller, if you missed your lay it couldn't have been by much


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## twochains (Sep 9, 2013)

pftt! Sneaky Devil! ^^^ :msp_sneaky:


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## roberte (Sep 9, 2013)

treeslayer2003 said:


> I wanted to form a group awhile back but no one interested. thing is ya gotta get people to join in order to talk to them.



I want in


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## Gologit (Sep 9, 2013)

treeslayer2003 said:


> I wanted to form a group awhile back but no one interested. thing is ya gotta get people to join in order to talk to them.



Groups are good but they tend to be exclusionary. Go to the Groups page and look at how many there are. Then look at how many are inactive. Most of them die on the vine.
Part of the advantage to keeping this thread in an open forum is that newcomers can find it easily and join in. Groups often lose momentum and people drift away.

You guys are good about sharing what you know...let's keep it out front for everybody to use and benefit from.


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## roberte (Sep 9, 2013)

Gologit said:


> Use what works for you. Use what you're comfortable with and feel safe with. There are a lot of methods that seem at first glance to be a little goofy but might possibly work under certain situations. I don't use them because they don't fit the terrain, the wood I'm in, or anything else. But I remember them and file them away...just in case.
> There a lot of methods that seem to involve too much monkey-motion and too much time...but I'm not the one cutting the tree. Some of them are almost funny and don't really guarantee the results you're looking for . Too many people keep looking for that sure fire automatic "If I do this, the tree will do that" technique. If any of you find it please let me know. I'm still looking.
> 
> If some of you were working for me we might discuss a change in cutting style but only in the interests of safety and production. If you're getting enough wood on the ground, safely and efficiently, to keep the boss happy and the money coming in it doesn't matter if you drop down on all fours and gnaw the log off at the stump with your teeth. Safety counts. Production counts. The rest is just window dressing.
> ...



+1 :cool2:

Im sucking up, but this is spot on


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## rwoods (Sep 9, 2013)

twochains said:


> I like it Ron! :msp_thumbup:



I almost added "with a death wish" to the end of the warning but thought some might think it a slam on Cfaller or the method which wasn't my intent. You can't keep yahoos from trying something that a pro does but I certainly appreciate the reluctance to discuss methods publicly. I don't even know what technique is called the "Kiss of Death". It sounds way beyond my skill level which should not make any difference when it comes to pros discussing it since I'm just a nosy trespasser here. Too bad there isn't a filter that would keep non-pros (myself included) out. Nevertheless I hope you guys keep posting and discussing because I learn something constantly which will make me safer and more proficient. I'm glad you guys put up with me as these types of threads divert my attention from other stresses of life. I bet I spent a good two hours thinking about this cut alone since it was first posted in the oak tree thread. Ron


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## 1270d (Sep 9, 2013)

TC why don't you put a face in with that KOD cut? Just curious, trying to save time or what
I do the same method, using a face. Which coincidently is the gol method


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## slowp (Sep 9, 2013)

Also, please realize that some of us have common sense and can read about things, but know we don't want to push our luck but we also have run into a few instances of using something we learned on here, and it worked. If you've been on this site long enough, you learn who gives good advice and who does not.


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## bustedup (Sep 9, 2013)

This might be a get a few comments slightly off subject but does have a bearing.....I think ......


The hinge.......well it might help some to think on it like the hinge on a gate or door .....it allows forward and backward motion .......but negates lateral movement ie side to side thereby it allows the door/gate to move in the intended plane ........well imo the hinge wood does the same job ......ok ya don't want it going backward (that what wedges are for, well one of the things lol) and ya don't want it going sideways either ya want it to commit to the face thereby the intended lay.....


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## rwoods (Sep 9, 2013)

treeslayer2003 said:


> Ron, I don't think it you and Jon and guys like you that worry us so bad. I have seen 12 or more guests at one time, they cannot even ask ?????. but we cannot protect everyone and this is the logging n forestry forum so..... now what happened to that white oak guy? that gets me, I guess we'll never know.



TS, I suspect I'm not the typical trespasser; if Bob (or most any of you) told me to take a hike, I would though I would likely still read along. I now keep relatively quite in the CS forum out of a concern probably similar to yours here. Nevertheless, I agree with Bob on the open forum and would encourage you folks to continue posting and discussing. Just observing pros banter back and forth should be enough for the world to know its dangerous out there and there should be a reason behind every step you take. Your profession is not very forgiving and there is no "redo" button. I get that. Some don't. I admire the folks that venture forth here with their questions despite the beating that may ensue. 

FWIW, AS is refreshing to me compared to the only other forum (nothing to do with trees or saws) that I follow. Here most questions no matter how many times they have been asked before are answered. The typical answer on "my" other forum is "Use the search function, you idiot!" Like all forums, answers here aren't always explained or clear and get off track from time to time, but that's life.

As to the white oak guy, I suspect he got lost in the responses or intimidated by them or both.

Ron


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## Gologit (Sep 9, 2013)

Stay here Ron. You're one of us. Course, that might not always be a good thing....:msp_rolleyes:


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## mdavlee (Sep 9, 2013)

It's pretty calm over here in this section. The chainsaw section is always a pissing match going on over nothing.:beer:


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## bustedup (Sep 9, 2013)

mdavlee said:


> It's pretty calm over here in this section. The chainsaw section is always a pissing match going on over nothing.:beer:



LOL .......that putting it mildly bro


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## mdavlee (Sep 9, 2013)

bustedup said:


> LOL .......that putting it mildly bro



I do like to help stir the Stihl and husky stuff up: D


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## treeslayer2003 (Sep 9, 2013)

Bob, you hit the nail on the head as usual. i'm gonna keep posting as I hope everyone does. it is scary sometimes if you think about the expieriance level of some of the guests, but hey we all started out not knowing. and yea, Ron you are one of us, i'd wonder if I made ya mad if ya left.


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## rwoods (Sep 9, 2013)

Bob, that is an undeserved compliment but thanks. I still remember your hesitancy to answer my question long ago about why the feller in a posted video kept revving his saw. I knew you were sizing up my sincerity when you responded. I knew then that you were my kind of guy and I should listen very carefully when you speak. Ron


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## lfnh (Sep 9, 2013)

Lot of times people looking for help, overlook searching for like threads made in the past.
Some really good, to the point discussions back there. Most aren't too active now, but posts are there to read without having to join anything extra group stuff. If that had been group stuff, like Bob said, it might not have happened. 

Some of the "how should this done" stuff, people are looking for quick, single. easy answer. Not talking about home owner stuff here. Old threads from say 2009 earlier had less need it now stuff and more try this. Like the block face and snipe thread i think from Burvol. Different wood, lean, ground had adjustments. Just rambling.

Why would Loctite Blue fail on clean, dry threads, no heat, no weird solvents. 4 bolts. 1/4 20 saginaw column ?? Red stuff is out, might as well mig it.


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## treeslayer2003 (Sep 9, 2013)

lfnh said:


> Lot of times people looking for help, overlook searching for like threads made in the past.
> Some really good, to the point discussions back there. Most aren't too active now, but posts are there to read without having to join anything extra group stuff. If that had been group stuff, like Bob said, it might not have happened.
> 
> Some of the "how should this done" stuff, people are looking for quick, single. easy answer. Not talking about home owner stuff here. Old threads from say 2009 earlier had less need it now stuff and more try this. Like the block face and snipe thread i think from Burvol. Different wood, lean, ground had adjustments. Just rambling.
> ...



mebbe they not clean as ya thought? i'd use red on it. I always clean threads with carb or brake cleaner n blow out with compressed air. mebbe the tube was old? i'v had back luck with off brands.


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## 1270d (Sep 9, 2013)

treeslayer2003 said:


> mebbe they not clean as ya thought? i'd use red on it. I always clean threads with carb or brake cleaner n blow out with compressed air. mebbe the tube was old? i'v had back luck with off brands.



I always use red as well. A little heat and it loosens right up.


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## lfnh (Sep 9, 2013)

Appreciate the ideas. 
Thankfully, didn't make this problem. if it were mine i'd whack the ingrown toe.
Just some things never want to see again, but never say never. know what i mean


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## madmarksolomon (Sep 9, 2013)

I really like the coos bay it's one of the best cuts around for small leaners, I still prefer to plunge cut on larger trees though, but it is a very handy tool to have in your bag


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## Cfaller (Sep 10, 2013)

roberte said:


> Interesting, CFaller, if you missed your lay it couldn't have been by much



The way it is leaning is the way it will lay.


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## madhatte (Sep 10, 2013)

A thing that has been so-far overlooked in this discussion is that in the "no-face Coos" cut, there is still hinge wood -- it is just allowed to tear down into the stump. This is not a "spiral-cut ham" cut at all. It's designed to do one thing and one thing only -- put a hard head leaner on the ground safely without barber-chairing. This is a very specialized cut which would be out of place in any other circumstance. It is a trick for the bag. I've used the "V" Coos plenty, the "T" Coos a couple of times... but I have not used the "no-face" yet. Now I've seen pictures, and have a reasonable expectation of what happens and why. 

This is the sort of discussion I probably like best on this board. Lots of voices of experience offering solid precautions, lots of respectful back-and-forth, lots of productive discussion. I agree with the consensus: Groups are fun, if you want to be exclusive, but an open forum is more generally useful to the Greater Good.


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## Cfaller (Sep 10, 2013)

madhatte said:


> A thing that has been so-far overlooked in this discussion is that in the "no-face Coos" cut, there is still hinge wood -- it is just allowed to tear down into the stump. This is not a "spiral-cut ham" cut at all. It's designed to do one thing and one thing only -- put a hard head leaner on the ground safely without barber-chairing. This is a very specialized cut which would be out of place in any other circumstance. It is a trick for the bag. I've used the "V" Coos plenty, the "T" Coos a couple of times... but I have not used the "no-face" yet. Now I've seen pictures, and have a reasonable expectation of what happens and why.
> 
> This is the sort of discussion I probably like best on this board. Lots of voices of experience offering solid precautions, lots of respectful back-and-forth, lots of productive discussion. I agree with the consensus: Groups are fun, if you want to be exclusive, but an open forum is more generally useful to the Greater Good.



Thanks! The other thing this cut will do is eliminate two cuts of the regular coos bay, the under-cut. This will lead to less exposure time under a hazard tree. :msp_thumbup: One of the times I wouldn't us it is falling a leaner up the hill.


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## madhatte (Sep 10, 2013)

Any way to spend less time under a hazard is worth a look.


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## madmarksolomon (Sep 10, 2013)

I wouldn't us it is falling a leaner up the hill. 

Very good point Cfaller


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## woodchuck357 (Sep 11, 2013)

twochains said:


> Thing is that the cut listed above is considered "acceptable" by the Pro's on here...well I like my way...basically the same deal but yet I can't even discuss the technique I and many others in hardwood country use to handle leaners W/O starting a pissing match. All I want to know is why is the Coos Bay non face cut is acceptable but the "Kiss of Death" bore cut method is considered just one foot closer to the grave.
> 
> IMO there is nothing "safer" about cutting the sides out narrowing your tag front then back cutting and leaving a post as it breaks over. My way...and I am saying "My" way due to the fact that the people who actually use the method won't admit it on here due to being slammed for such foolishness...
> 
> ...



When describing the cut you should have stuck "coos bay" monicker on it! That may have made a world of difference in it being accepted. I caught heck a while back for suggesting a heavy leaner be taken down without a face notch, from the same folks that are praising the coos bay no face! Werid, huh?


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## bustedup (Sep 12, 2013)

Maybe it should be added that having a fast cutting saw would be a distinct advantage in any coos bay or indeed any leaner ........I can remember a while back Gologit making that comment to me and it makes a whole load of sense


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## lfnh (Sep 12, 2013)

woodchuck357 said:


> When describing the cut you should have stuck "coos bay" monicker on it! That may have made a world of difference in it being accepted. I *caught heck a while back for suggesting a heavy leaner be taken down without a face *notch, from the same folks that are praising the coos bay no face! Werid, huh?



what thread


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## HuskStihl (Sep 14, 2013)

treeslayer2003 said:


> Ron, I don't think it you and Jon and guys like you that worry us so bad. I have seen 12 or more guests at one time, they cannot even ask ?????. but we cannot protect everyone and this is the logging n forestry forum so..... now what happened to that white oak guy? that gets me, I guess we'll never know.



I cannot believe I missed this thread. I'm no faller, but for whatever reason am totally fascinated by how falling cuts work. The "no face Coos Bay" is a cool cut, but I doubt I will ever need it. This will sound flippant, and I don't intend it that way, but when I have a 12" leaner, I just face it and cut it down. I don't have any aspen or other notoriously chairy wood, and don't work in the winter, and my two "falling" saws are both fast enough to get through the back cut in a hurry when needed.
Larger leaners I will bore. I catch #### for boring, or maybe it's cause its *me* boring, but it's so easy. I can put in a face (kinda), bore behind the holding wood, and make a back cut (sorta) without having to really even move my feet.
I love learing new stuff, and the boys think I use a "technique" on every tree I see, but I promise that's just because I have yet to see a point in making a video of falling a tree with it's lean.

I hope you guys continue to tolerate me poking around and saying outlandish things, it really makes me happier than it should


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## hammerlogging (Sep 14, 2013)

gologit said:


> if some of you were working for me we might discuss a change in cutting style but only in the interests of safety and production. If you're getting enough wood on the ground, safely and efficiently, to keep the boss happy and the money coming in it doesn't matter if you drop down on all fours and gnaw the log off at the stump with your teeth. Safety counts. Production counts. The rest is just window dressing.
> 
> 
> this is so much of the truth it is worth years of value. When these 2 things are not there, neither the production nor the safety, a fellow is on his way to taking a walk.
> ...


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## hammerlogging (Sep 14, 2013)

would it be rude to say that the tree in question, while no doubt leaning, was quite unlikely to have to chair given its relative light weight (dead) and fast cutting wood (dead softwood)? I'd think it was a chance to practice, but a shallowish opened face and a fast backcut would have been fine, or at least as fine as the no face coos bay, which didn't get you out of there any sooner.


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## HuskStihl (Sep 14, 2013)

It would be an unbelievable honor to work for Bob. I've only seen one video of him just fallin a tree, and it was the *exact* opposite of the dog and pony show I'm usuly running. I shouldn't be surprised, he started with the Stihl 064S model, and the S was for steam powered:msp_biggrin:


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## bitzer (Sep 15, 2013)

Very well said Joe- about what it takes to be a good faller. Big timber is fun, but give me bar length ash or soft maple in a nice, rolling upland setting and I can really bang some wood out. The kind of timber that is all logs, no limbs, and a little top. Just fast cutting no nonsense wood. The big hard maple job I just cut was fun, but a ##### at the same time. 2.5 to 3 gallons to cut 10-11mbf in a day is a lot of fuel to burn through. And that is with my chains and saw at optimal performance.


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## knothole (Sep 21, 2013)

Mornin gents. I truly appreciate the time and effort you guys make to try and keep members like me safe and alive. I hope to be able to continue to reference this thread to answer any or most of the questions I've had or have about working in the woods. All I'll say is you all have gotten me out of some jams in the past and you will get me out of some in the future too. Thanks for the wad of awesome information. Use common sense in the woods, or don't go, simple.


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## littlejoetqt (Sep 22, 2013)

rwoods said:


> Bob, that is an undeserved compliment but thanks. I still remember your hesitancy to answer my question long ago about why the feller in a posted video kept revving his saw. I knew you were sizing up my sincerity when you responded. I knew then that you were my kind of guy and I should listen very carefully when you speak. Ron



That was probably me in the video. Looking back a few years later, I was just in too big a hurry. I should have slowed down a but and cut the brush I was cutting before I ever considered starting my notch...it was an afterthought and that is a bad thing in the tree business.

At any rate, this coos bay cut seems like a good card to hold, I can see it being useful in the right circumstance. Kinda reminds me of the suicide notch(except this is much more thought out and this seems relatively safe)...something I refuse to share a video of because I'm smart enough not to do it anymore. 

I probably could make a drawing of it, but I'd better not....


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## 056 kid (Sep 23, 2013)

So what does OSHA think about these no face deals? I like to ream through most of a heavy head leaner and let her rip with a simple back cut. No wood pull & and no busting. Though im not supposed to.... humfff...


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## littlejoetqt (Sep 23, 2013)

I'm pretty certain they would frown upon most of them...but since when have they known what works and what doesn't?

Just saying...some rules are meant to be broken


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## twochains (Sep 23, 2013)

Most OSHA people I have seen couldn't even start a chainsaw, much less would know what a "face" was or know if it was missing er not. When I was the head sawyer at the ERC mill, all they ever #####ed about was me keeping my window towards the stacker guys clean...I was like, "Why...I don't want to see them anyway! Move along with your small person in a big job ass"


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