# Climb Right wire core flipline



## MISteve (Dec 24, 2011)

Recently purchased a climbing kit for tree removals, something I have always wanted to get into. 6 removals now, added Beranek lanyard to my kit, feel lots better in the tree now. Said lanyard is a bit awkward to use. And the rope bunches up near the end making the last foot or so hard to use. Is this normal? Do I just need more time with it? Also, on Baileys site where I got this, one individual says he had 2 wire core fliplines fail, says the sheath tore loose. Is that a common to fliplines?


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## 2treeornot2tree (Dec 24, 2011)

I have 2 of them, a 8', and a 18' one. I haven't had any problems with them. I would be concerned if the rope was bunched up on the wire. *I would not even use it.* Sounds like the rope has come unattached from where it attaches to the wire core. The only thing I did to change mine, was to change the rope grabs out for ones with 90 degree twist so the carabiners dont bind up on my harness d rings. Can you post a pic of your lanyard.


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## MISteve (Dec 24, 2011)

I will try to post a pic of it. Might take all day to figure out how, but I will get it done. Also, on the wire core,the rope grab/carabiner combo sometimes feels crooked, just not right. Is there a better way to attach the rope grab to the saddle?


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## tree md (Dec 24, 2011)

I've been climbing on the climb right wire core for over 5 years now. I'm on my second one. They work fine and are bullet proof. The rope grab is great for beginners. I have a rope lanyard that I use with a prussic cord too. I would definitely go with a rope grab until you learn a little more about friction hitches.


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## tree md (Dec 24, 2011)

MISteve said:


> I will try to post a pic of it. Might take all day to figure out how, but I will get it done. Also, on the wire core,the rope grab/carabiner combo sometimes feels crooked, just not right. Is there a better way to attach the rope grab to the saddle?



It can get twisted and bind. Make sure you have it attached with the rope grab to the outside and that everything is streamlined before you enter the tree.


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## MISteve (Dec 24, 2011)

Thanks for the info, I will pay more attention to its alignment. So far it has been pretty easy to use. What type or style of rope lanyard are you using. My Beranek is 8' x 3/4. It only has snap on one end and an eye on the other, along with the Prusik. Seems a little short at times and is pretty hard to swing around the tree. Still feel much more secure than just the flipline.


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## tree md (Dec 24, 2011)

I've got a homemade rope lanyard that I made out of 1/2" safety blue and an HRC prussic cord. I put a rope snap on the end of it.


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## MISteve (Dec 24, 2011)

I see a lot of that in the forums and internet. Is it easier to use? Safe for a new climber?


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## tree md (Dec 24, 2011)

I started climbing 20 years ago and most climbers I knew back then would make their own lanyard out of a piece of climbing line. I would definitely get a little experience with knots under my belt before I tried making my own. There are plenty of good threads on how to do so. I will only use a double fisherman's knot for termination on life support systems anymore. Just remember, your life is literally "on the line" with anything you decide to use. You can't go wrong with the climb right wire core and rope grab.


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## MISteve (Dec 24, 2011)

I have been visiting this site for at least a year, mostly on saw issues, but quite a bit on climbing. I picked up a copy of the tree climbers companion mentioned on this site. Been through it 3 times now, practicing knots quite a bit. Trying to keep it as basic as possible. Here are pics of my rigs. Notice the tail end of the Beranek, near the eye. Should the rope bunch up like that? Should I expect to use the last foot of it, I have to open up the prusik to do so. Also, should the end of either rig, the eye, be attached to anything?
http://s1100.photobucket.com/albums/g404/sgilbert9226/?action=view&current=100_0337.jpg. 

http://s1100.photobucket.com/albums/g404/sgilbert9226/?action=view&current=100_0336.jpg 

http://s1100.photobucket.com/albums/g404/sgilbert9226/?action=view&current=100_0335.jpg


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## MISteve (Dec 25, 2011)

Here are pics of my rigs. I went back in this thread and tried to add pics and edit my post. Looks like all I accomplished was to wipe out the rest of the thread, because there is less there today. Anyway, notice how the Beranek bunches at the end. I have to loosen my Prusik quite a bit to use it. Should I be able to use it all the way to the eye? Should I have the eye on either rig attached, or just let it hang. 
100_0337.jpg picture by sgilbert9226 - Photobucket 

100_0336.jpg picture by sgilbert9226 - Photobucket 

100_0335.jpg picture by sgilbert9226 - Photobucket


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## MISteve (Dec 25, 2011)

Glad to hear that, so far it has been easy to use. I tried twice to put pics of my rigs on this thread, but all I have accomplished is to loose some of this thread. I was trying to show how the end of my Beranek gets all bunched up. I cannot use the last foot of it unless I open the Prusik a lot.


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## tree md (Dec 25, 2011)

Try uploading you pics to a free photo sharing website like photobucket.com then copy and paste the IMG code in this text box. Works like a charm for me.


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## MISteve (Dec 25, 2011)

Hopefully here are the pics. 



100_0337.jpg picture by sgilbert9226 - Photobucket


100_0336.jpg picture by sgilbert9226 - Photobucket

100_0335.jpg picture by sgilbert9226 - Photobucket


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## tree md (Dec 25, 2011)

I'm aware of who Jerry Beranek is but have no idea of what you are referring to him about in this thread. Sounds to me like your hip prussic is biting a little hard on your lanyard. Not sure what to tell you about that except to just break it loose when it does that. As far as your lanyards go, both look fine to me. Lots of guys like to use a VT on a rope lanyard but again, I would get a little more experience under my belt before I started working with advanced friction hitches. Especially the VT, it's real finicky.


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## MISteve (Dec 25, 2011)

I do not mean to speak of J.B., that is the name of this lanyard, according to Baileys, which is were I got it. My concern was if it was supposed to get like that near the end. Should I attach the eye to my saddle, or just let it hang? Referring to either my lanyard or flipline.


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## tree md (Dec 25, 2011)

Personally, I would feel safe enough with the spliced eye as a termination but that's a judgement call you need to make for yourself. Before I used spliced eyes I would tie a simple overhand knot or a figure 8 for a stopper knot.

EDIT: The lanyard is designed to let the slack hang free on that rope lanyard, just like the wire core. After looking at the pic again I see that there is a thimble spliced into the eye. No need for a stopper knot whatsoever with that rig. You're good to go.


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## MISteve (Dec 25, 2011)

Thanks for the input. I am thinking of getting a longer unit, the 8' one has been too short more than it has been too long. What about the 2 in 1 rigs I see? Would they be easier to use? Just want to keep it simple and stay in the tree. All the pics I have seen, and videos seem to show the end hanging. 

Little background info for you. I never intended to start climbing even though I have played with saws for 35 years. But in the last 4 or 5 years, a lot of my friends and family keep asking me to get up there and trim this, or cut that , so I would end up on a ladder 20' up and you just cannot keep the limbs from hitting the ladder. Too many close calls. Had the ladder ripped from under me a year ago. Amazing how long you can hang when you do not want to fall. I said no more till I get some gear. Now I just take my time going up and it feels a lot more controlled. I have been following this site for at least a year, mostly about saws, but also about climbing. Got Jeff Jepson's Tree Climbers Companion, advice from this site, good read, been through it 3 times.


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## minuteman tree (Dec 29, 2011)

Sounds like you and I got started the same way. We had a tornado up here in June, and I had all kinds of people asking for help. Didn't feel safe on a ladder, so I bought some gear and went to work. I take my time and if I don't like the way something looks, I don't do it.


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## MISteve (Dec 29, 2011)

I have done 7 removals since I got my gear. You would have thought any tree that is a single trunk would be easy to climb. I am finding out different in a hurry. Two things I know now: I have a lot to learn, and there sure are a lot of ways for things to go wrong. One more thing, cold trees do not want to let go of my spikes.


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## minuteman tree (Dec 29, 2011)

Trees sure look different from the giround.


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## Tree Pig (Dec 29, 2011)

MISteve said:


> I have done 7 removals since I got my gear. You would have thought any tree that is a single trunk would be easy to climb. I am finding out different in a hurry. Two things I know now: I have a lot to learn, and there sure are a lot of ways for things to go wrong. One more thing, cold trees do not want to let go of my spikes.



Start a small fire around the tree before you start... warms the tree up and gives you a real good reason to work faster. All joking aside, one mistake many new climbers make is driving the spikes in too hard. Not sure if you do this but once you get use to just letting the spikes do the work it does get easier. Of course thats easy to say for us fat guys.


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## MISteve (Dec 30, 2011)

Interesting point. I do make an effort to set my spikes firmly. There is only 150 lbs of me, so I was driving them with authority. Mine are Buckinghams at 2 3/4 inch. Will I ever need a different length? And which side of the tree is best to start the fire? Maybe the north, I can burn of the moss while I am at it. I have one or two trees to do this winter, both are Norway pines.


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