# Lanyard Preference - What do you use?



## KingArbor (Jan 19, 2010)

Im in the market for a new flip line, and im on the fence about what to purchase next. I have used both prusik adjusters (ALT), and a single wire core with Micro adjuster. I like the added peace of mind using ALT, so am considering a 2-way with the Klimar adjuster. Wondering what others experience with the latter are; likes, dis likes.. Lets hear it as my search yielded little results as far as what most are using and why.


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## sprung22 (Jan 19, 2010)

KingArbor said:


> Im in the market for a new flip line, and im on the fence about what to purchase next. I have used both prusik adjusters (ALT), and a single wire core with Micro adjuster. I like the added peace of mind using ALT, so am considering a 2-way with the Klimar adjuster. Wondering what others experience with the latter are; likes, dis likes.. Lets hear it as my search yielded little results as far as what most are using and why.



After using a couple different flipline adjusters including the new buckingham that supposedly corrects the angle of your caribiner to your belt,I use a traditional prusik setup.Heres a thread that's got good info,Type this in("BuckGrab" flipine adjuster from Buckingham).Sorry im not sure how to post a thread.


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## voxac30dude (Jan 19, 2010)

2 in 1 steel core maxi flip 5/8's with safety blue 6 coil prussik


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## outonalimbts (Jan 19, 2010)

*I use a gibs attached with a delta link on my saddle*

I like the Gibbs, as it won't slip I tie my own lanyards with 3 strand Tree Master by Samson. I attach it to a swivel snap. I cut to length approx 30' long to allow for redirects.

If you use a Gibbs, take out the quick pin and replace it with a bolt with a lock nut on the end.

Works great.

Good luck,


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## Bermie (Jan 19, 2010)

20' 1/2" XTC plus with a distel and micro pulley for the lanyard
8' 1/2" Yale wire core with distel and micro pulley for flip line

Both one hand adjustable in and out, and release under load...


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## RacerX (Jan 19, 2010)

15'-1/2" Stable braid with an A.R.T. Positioner. I've tried many different adjusters/hitches and IMO the Positioner is the best out there because it's ingenious design allows it to be released under load. Also since it very small it's much more compact than using a prusik or some other hitches. For cutting with a chainsaw aloft I use a 12' wire-core with a mechanical adjuster.


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## pdqdl (Jan 19, 2010)

Skip the expensive (and heavy) positioning devices and use a modern friction hitch and micropulley (or dog leash snap, or...whatever). Use a heat resistant cord like Beeline. I have an unused Microscender, because it doesn't work as well.

Skip the two in one lanyard. For the weight and hassle, you will do better to use two separate lanyards (Like Bermie) so that you can use both at the same time. You won't need two fancy positioning devices, because you will be only be using 30" of cordage for the friction hitch on each lanyard.

I like the VT using beeline (splice my own), and any old chunk of stable braid for the lanyard. Wire core? You should buy that one.


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## The Lawn Shark (Jan 19, 2010)

I use 2 lanyards 1 is a 10' steel core flip w/ gibbs and 2 is a 16' blue streak with snaps on each end and a 6 coil prussick...2 in 1......I use this all the time like a mini secondary climb line


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## bruce6670 (Jan 19, 2010)

pdqdl said:


> Skip the expensive (and heavy) positioning devices and use a modern friction hitch and micropulley (or dog leash snap, or...whatever). Use a heat resistant cord like Beeline. I have an unused Microscender, because it doesn't work as well.
> 
> Skip the two in one lanyard. For the weight and hassle, you will do better to use two separate lanyards (Like Bermie) so that you can use both at the same time. You won't need two fancy positioning devices, because you will be only be using 30" of cordage for the friction hitch on each lanyard.
> 
> I like the VT using beeline (splice my own), and any old chunk of stable braid for the lanyard. Wire core? You should buy that one.




:agree2:Just keep it simple.


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## Bermie (Jan 20, 2010)

bruce6670 said:


> :agree2:Just keep it simple.



Yup...:agree2:
I rarely use both on the same climb, rope lanyard for pruning, wire core for removals, in combination with my main climb line.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jan 20, 2010)

I use some old climbing line spliced to a working length of ~18ft with a vt using 3/8 inch stable braid, a newer carabiner and an old micro-pulley. I clip it into the bottom sewn loop on my master saddle and have a captive eye carabiner on one end. That clips into a Mallion-Rappide delta link on the opposite sewn loop, or the d-ring on the saddle side; whichever is easiest.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 20, 2010)

pdqdl said:


> Skip the expensive (and heavy) positioning devices and use a modern friction hitch and micropulley (or dog leash snap, or...whatever). Use a heat resistant cord like Beeline. I have an unused Microscender, because it doesn't work as well.
> 
> Skip the two in one lanyard. For the weight and hassle, you will do better to *use two separate lanyards (Like Bermie) so that you can use both at the same time. You won't need two fancy positioning devices*, because you will be only be using 30" of cordage for the friction hitch on each lanyard.
> 
> I like the VT using beeline (splice my own), and any old chunk of stable braid for the lanyard. Wire core? You should buy that one.



:agree2:

I'm essentially with the two lanyard group. However, I extended the two lanyard approach to some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. I'm using their Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) approach. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back. There's less hardware than with two lanyards. Plus, you can use virtually all the lanyard on either side. I use both sides on almost every climb - very versatile, easy to use and lighter.

*Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard*




Virtually all the lanyard length is available to either side. A more versatile alternative to two separate lanyards - uses less hardware.

*DEDA LANYARD END DETAIL*




Rope Snap
21' of 7/16" Sterling HTP
TFL's with thimbles on Snaps
Distel Friction Hitch
9mm Sterling Accessory Cord
DFL's on Distel hitches
3/8" SS Clevis safety wired
... secures & tends Distel hitch
All rope ends dipped in Plasti Dip
All loose ends whipped & frapped


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## lumberjack333 (Jan 20, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> :agree2:
> 
> I'm essentially with the two lanyard group. However, I extended the two lanyard approach to some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. I'm using their Double Ended, Double Adusting (DEDA) approach. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back. There's less hardware than with two lanyards. Plus, you can use virtually all the lanyard on either side. I use both sides on almost every climb - very versatile, easy to use and lighter.
> 
> ...



I REALLY like that setup single-jack, definitely gonna try that one out!


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## treeslayer (Jan 20, 2010)

Here's my lanyards, I wear an adjustable flip-line on my left, and I have the
6' long, 2" wide safety lanyard on my right. the safety lanyard I knot tight to keep it out of the way for most times aloft. 
2 different length (and diameter) wirecores, and a rope flipline for pruning,.


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## outofmytree (Jan 21, 2010)

treeslayer said:


> Here's my lanyards, I wear an adjustable flip-line on my left, and I have the
> 6' long, 2" wide safety lanyard on my right. the safety lanyard I knot tight to keep it out of the way for most times aloft.
> 2 different length (and diameter) wirecores, and a rope flipline for pruning,.



WTF. Gimme my missing flipline back ya varmint!

I use a variety of fliplines and in honesty I often use the remains of old climbing lines for the soft ropes. I do like wire cores for some situations and the ones I use are exactly the same as TS's one in the bottom left.

Damn SingleJack you really are thinking. Or maybe I should say, you really are good at stealing Moss's/Dunlaps good ideas! I really like the look of that rig and I am mighty tired of the one-way-only adjustment of the micro grabs I use on my fliplines atm. 

It looks like I am gonna play around with my climbing rig again. Argh. I hate coming here it makes me think. Ohhh, brain hurting!


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## outonalimbts (Jan 21, 2010)

*Have you ever used that saddle?*

That saddle looks brand new, is that your inspection saddle for when OSHA visits your site? 

My saddles don't look like that more than a day or two. They get all sweaty and broke'n lookin'---

Nice set up, though

:chainsawguy:


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## KingArbor (Jan 21, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> :agree2:
> 
> I'm essentially with the two lanyard group. However, I extended the two lanyard approach to some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. I'm using their Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) approach. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back. There's less hardware than with two lanyards. Plus, you can use virtually all the lanyard on either side. I use both sides on almost every climb - very versatile, easy to use and lighter.
> 
> ...



Wow, you guys dont disappoint! I am thoroughly impressed with the helpful responses everyone's posted. THANK YOU. SINGLE-JACKS setup I find the most intriguing. Would you mind giving a brief run down of how to configure and setup your DEDA lanyard? Im brand new to the Arborist Forums (and industry; 3 years experience) and I am not familiar with some of the abbreviations being used (TFL, DFL above for example. Are those the pink and yellow rope I see?). SJ, how are the hitches secured to the clevis? Your post is very thorough, but any additional input would be great! Sounds like I should keep a wire core with adjuster as a back up for big removals, and try something light and new for everything else. This thread is coming along nicely, thanks fellas. 

*Edit: Also I see the suspender attachments with some small cordage through them, care to explain that as well? Thank you


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## Ghillie (Jan 21, 2010)

TFL and DFL refer to the termination knots. *T*riple *F*isherman and *D*ouble *f*isherman. That is how the hitches are secured to the clevis, (Double Fisherman).

The ends of the lanyard are Triple Fisherman with a plastic thimble to allow the snap to pivot easier and to address lanyard wear.

Another thread to check out is the one on prussik for flipline.

Disclaimer: I have not used or setup the DEDA so I am just going off what I see in pictures, please step in and correct me if I am wrong.... I hate being wrong!


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## KingArbor (Jan 21, 2010)

Thanks Ghillie... Ive had more time to study Single-Jack's setup. Looks pretty simple; Run Lanyard Rope through side D's, loop through back webbing or secure with leg straps (as pictured), tie one snap to both ends (TFL). Attach clevis to side D's, secure Friction Hitch cord to clevis (DFL), and finally tie a Distel hitch to both ends ensuring proper orientation and that they grab properly.

This may be the answer I was looking for.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 21, 2010)

Ghillie said:


> TFL and DFL refer to the termination knots. *T*riple *F*isherman and *D*ouble *f*isherman. That is how the hitches are secured to the clevis, (Double Fisherman).
> 
> The ends of the lanyard are Triple Fisherman with a plastic thimble to allow the snap to pivot easier and to address lanyard wear.
> 
> ...



Ya hit the 10 ring


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 21, 2010)

outonalimbts said:


> That *saddle looks brand new*, is that your inspection saddle for when OSHA visits your site?
> 
> My saddles don't look like that more than a day or two. They get all sweaty and broke'n lookin'---
> 
> ...



Saddle is about a year old. I take really good care of it. I like it much better than the old styles and much better than the new styles. I've found most damage to a saddle happens when you're NOT wearing it. I store in a tote. When I take it out, it goes on. When it comes off, it goes in the tote. It only comes in contact with the tote, me and occasionally a tree. 

*The guy I bought it from told me:



"If you take care of it, it will last you the rest of your life. If you don't, it will last you the rest of your life."

Click to expand...

*


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 21, 2010)

KingArbor said:


> Wow, you guys dont disappoint! I am thoroughly impressed with the helpful responses everyone's posted. THANK YOU. SINGLE-JACKS setup I find the most intriguing. Would you mind giving a brief run down of how to configure and setup your DEDA lanyard? Im brand new to the Arborist Forums (and industry; 3 years experience) and I am not familiar with some of the abbreviations being used (TFL, DFL above for example. *Are those the pink and yellow rope I see?)*. SJ, how are the hitches secured to the clevis? Your post is very thorough, but any additional input would be great! Sounds like I should keep a wire core with adjuster as a back up for big removals, and try something light and new for everything else. This thread is coming along nicely, thanks fellas.
> 
> *Edit: Also I see the suspender attachments with some small cordage through them, care to explain that as well? Thank you



The _"pink and yellow"_ is the whipping and frapping I referred to - also called "seizing". Brion Toss once wrote of seizings; "... they're so strong and secure that they rival Eye Splices." *(Chapman's Nautical Guides - Knots, Brion Toss, 1990, pg161)* 

Here's close up of another example:


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 21, 2010)

KingArbor said:


> Thanks Ghillie... Ive had more time to study Single-Jack's setup. *Looks pretty simple*; Run Lanyard Rope through side D's, loop through back webbing or secure with leg straps (as pictured), tie one snap to both ends (TFL). Attach *clevis* to side D's, secure Friction Hitch cord to clevis (DFL), and finally tie a Distel hitch to both ends ensuring proper orientation and that they grab properly.
> 
> *This may be the answer I was looking for*.



It is simple ... but beware it is NOT trivial ... making a lanyard can kill you. 

You've worked all out the details pretty well. I should add that the clevis' are *safety wired*. Most people just tighten a clevis with a wrench. However, I feel safer with the safety wire. 

My lanyard is working extremely well for me but I've been refining it for months by studying the work of others, testing on the ground, low climbs ... to feel safe with it. 

My advice, you do the same ... make your lanyard(s) so you feel safe with it:
one foot up, 5 feet up, 100' ...start LOW & SLOW ... 

I'll be more than happy to help but remember ... It's your lanyard - your responsibility - your life.

Be safe,
Jack


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## Ghillie (Jan 21, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> Ya hit the 10 ring








I love it when that happens!


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## Ghillie (Jan 21, 2010)

SINGLE-JACK said:


> The _"pink and yellow"_ is the whipping and frapping I referred to - also called "seizing". Brion Toss once wrote of seizings; "... they're so strong and secure that they rival Eye Splices." (Chapman's Nautical Guides - Knots, Brion Toss, 1990, pg161)
> 
> Here's close up of another example:



OK.... Tell me how you do that. I am intrigued.


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## SINGLE-JACK (Jan 22, 2010)

Ghillie said:


> OK.... Tell me how you do that. I am intrigued.








*SEIZING - Gerald L. Findley, 1999 *






Brion Toss does seizing slightly differently:
*Chapman's Nautical Guides - Knots, Brion Toss, 1990, pg161*


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## Ghillie (Jan 22, 2010)

Excellent! Thank you very much!

That looks pretty straight forward. That should solve the mess we get on the High Ropes course when we try to secure the tails with electrical tape.


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