# Homemade felling wedge idea?



## cedarman (Mar 2, 2010)

Hey guys,

I hear alot of talk about plastic felling wedges. they seem like a good idea for you dont want to hit a steel one with your chain but...

Why not make them yourself out of wood? Ive got a couple scrap 2x4's that i could cut into several nice wedges. they would be better than a steel one (dont want to mess your chain up) and basically free!

anybody tried this?

Oh by the way, my name is Ross and this is my first official post. I recently installed a woodstove in my garage and really didnt want to depend on buying wood so I bought a husqvarna 455 and started cutting some hardwoods myself. Now I'm hooked!!! I use my atv as a skidder, my father in laws splitter and a homemade choke chain and im set!!

wierd thing is, when i was very young I used to help my stepdad cut wood and hated every minute of it. Now theres nothing else I'd rather be doing.

:newbie:


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## slowp (Mar 2, 2010)

Yes, there are some folks who have made their own. I believe they prefer to use oak. 

I use plastic. The bright colors are cheery.


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## gwiley (Mar 2, 2010)

The plastic wedges are very cheap at $4-10 depending on their length - they don't split and work well. Because they last longer you can carry fewer of them with you into the woods (I carry 4 when cutting b/c it is unacceptable to have to run back to the truck for a wedge with a try almost down).

If you really think it is worth while to make your own felling wedges I would use a hard wood - pine will probably just splinter and mushroom after one or two trees and I doubt it would work felling a large hardwood.


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## ray benson (Mar 2, 2010)

I have made a few using oak pallets.


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## Gologit (Mar 2, 2010)

I make a few wedges every winter...good rainy day project. I usually use oak or almond but any hardwood will probably be okay.

The nice thing about making your own is that you can make any size and taper that you need and they don't cost anything but your time.

I use plastic wedges, too, but the wooden ones get a lot of use.


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## cedarman (Mar 2, 2010)

Thanks guys. I have a load of oak pallets that i use for kindling. I'll take a couple of oak 2x4's from them pallets and widdle me out 4 or 5.

thanks again!


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## stihl sawing (Mar 2, 2010)

How do you guys make them so they don't bust up, The last ones i made out of oak and i busted all of them up hitting with a small hand sledge. They would take about five hits and that was it. They were fine for bucking where i just had to tap them in the log to keep the kerf from pinching the saw, But for felling where i would hit them pretty hard they would bust.


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## cedarman (Mar 2, 2010)

that was a question I had in the back of my mind? I figured a softwood like pine wouldn't be as brittle as oak. I dont know....... No need to:deadhorse:

I'll make a couple of each and find our the hardway


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## Gologit (Mar 2, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> How do you guys make them so they don't bust up, The last ones i made out of oak and i busted all of them up hitting with a small hand sledge. They would take about five hits and that was it. They were fine for bucking where i just had to tap them in the log to keep the kerf from pinching the saw, But for felling where i would hit them pretty hard they would bust.



Hmmmmm...manufacturing flaw? Application error? :greenchainsaw: LOLOL...there's a reason why they make and sell all those plastic wedges.

Try hitting them real square. It's easy to be off your mark when wedging and you're standing at kind of an awkward angle anyway. A wooden wedge won't take much side load, even oak. I've found that if they're too long and thin, with too much gradual taper, they'll bust up pretty quick. Try some stubby ones but watch out if you're using them in the back cut. On small trees they'll give you a lot of lift in a hurry...sometimes too much. On bigger stuff they're good to steer with, though.


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## southbound (Mar 2, 2010)

Make sure you have the grain going the right way too....


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## stihl sawing (Mar 2, 2010)

Gologit said:


> Hmmmmm...manufacturing flaw? Application error? :greenchainsaw: LOLOL...there's a reason why they make and sell all those plastic wedges.
> 
> Try hitting them real square. It's easy to be off your mark when wedging and you're standing at kind of an awkward angle anyway. A wooden wedge won't take much side load, even oak. I've found that if they're too long and thin, with too much gradual taper, they'll bust up pretty quick. Try some stubby ones but watch out if you're using them in the back cut. On small trees they'll give you a lot of lift in a hurry...sometimes too much. On bigger stuff they're good to steer with, though.


LOL, yeah they may not have been hit square every time. Also they may have been too thin, i thought about that when i was smackin em. I did have one pretty thick but couldn't get it started, Kept bouncing out. Not enough taper i guess. I hear ya on lifting smaller trees too quick. Some good advice i never thought of. Thanks


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## Ductape (Mar 2, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> How do you guys make them so they don't bust up,




Don't hit them?


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## stihl sawing (Mar 2, 2010)

southbound said:


> Make sure you have the grain going the right way too....


 Yeah i did that.



Ductape said:


> Don't hit them?


LOL, That would definitely work.


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## John Ellison (Mar 2, 2010)

I like the plastic ones. I've got this mental image of me hurriedly grabing a splintery wooden wedge out of my back pocket and........


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## riesenbr549 (Mar 2, 2010)

We make em outa willow wood . That stuff is tough!! made some extra planks for the outriggers on the bucket truck also . been usin em for over a year still holding up! The plastic wedges are great when you can find one they seem to walk off like the bar wrenches. i had 2 put a rope on the wrench we keep on the back of the bucket truck . so far it hasent walked off yet . lol


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## Gologit (Mar 2, 2010)

John Ellison said:


> I like the plastic ones. I've got this mental image of me hurriedly grabing a splintery wooden wedge out of my back pocket and........



That happens.  I don't worry about the splinters in my "pocket area" too much but I sure hate it when one gets rammed under my fingernail.

Like I said, there's a reason why most folks use plastic wedges. I just kinda like to mess around and make stuff like that. Keeps me in the shop and out of trouble.

One good thing about wooden wedges is that if you lose one in the woods and somebody like Slowp finds it, you don't get busted for leaving trash in your strip.


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## Jon E (Mar 2, 2010)

Elm. Cut on the bandsaw, leave 'em rough, they get a grip on the tree that way. You break, mushroom, cut, or split them - leave them in the woods. Hickory or hornbeam works well too. I save straight pieces for such a use. Plastic wedges cost money, but I have a few just in case.


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## steveb76 (Mar 2, 2010)

cedarman said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I recently installed a woodstove in my garage and really didnt want to depend on buying wood so I bought a husqvarna 455 and started cutting some hardwoods myself. Now I'm hooked!!!




Same story here, down to the same saw.......weird....lol


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## unclemoustache (Mar 3, 2010)

Why use plastic or wood? I use steel. Lasts longer than either.

(but they don't seem to work very well for some reason.)


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## Nosmo (Mar 3, 2010)

*Table Saw*

I use southern yellow pine 2 x 4 . I have a jig I use on my table saw to cut the wedges. Some of them can be used a second time. 

The good thing is they work, cost very little to make and being wooden they don't hurt the tree. hah

Nosmo


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## Rookie1 (Mar 3, 2010)

Cedarman,my name is also Ross. Here is a thread from a while ago. I was amazed at NDtreehuggers wedges. Enjoy.http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=74686


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## stihl sawing (Mar 3, 2010)

those steel ones are fine untill you hit one with the saw. Plus they won't stack with the mushroomed head to well.


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## cedarman (Mar 3, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> those steel ones are fine untill you hit one with the saw. Plus they won't stack with the mushroomed head to well.




EXACTLY! knowing my luck id hit the steel wedge with my chain, tear my chain up, cause a spark and set the woods on fire:greenchainsaw:


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## Job Corps Tree (Mar 3, 2010)

*Home made Felling Wedge Idea*

Try Dogwood , cut when green and let Dry, after some time you could split logs with them


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## slowp (Mar 3, 2010)

If you venture to our region, Madsen's usually has a big box of plastic wedges for half price in the middle of an aisle by the stove and coffee area. I think the wedges are seconds. There might be extra plastic where it didn't break off during manufacturing or something else. That's where I get mine. I just use them for bucking. Very rarely do I find pink colored ones in the box.


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## Gologit (Mar 3, 2010)

unclemoustache said:


> Why use plastic or wood? I use steel. Lasts longer than either.
> 
> (but they don't seem to work very well for some reason.)



LOL...Those are good for night falling. When you hit one with your chain the sparks light up the work area. If you're in dry pitchy wood it might even start a little fire and then you can have some light to change your chain by. When you get the new chain on you can put bandaids on all the cuts from flying chain teeth shrapnel...but change the chain first, that's the important part. Bleeding is free and shouldn't get in the way of getting the wood on the ground.


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## nhlogga (Mar 3, 2010)

Ductape said:


> Don't hit them?



My wedge of choice is made by either clark or john deere.:greenchainsaw: But seriously, if I make a wedge it is out of oak.


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## nanuk (Mar 4, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> How do you guys make them so they don't bust up, The last ones i made out of oak and i busted all of them up hitting with a small hand sledge. They would take about five hits and that was it. They were fine for bucking where i just had to tap them in the log to keep the kerf from pinching the saw, But for felling where i would hit them pretty hard they would bust.



What I've learned on an ABO site.....
*
never hit a wooden wedge with a steel maul.*

make yourself a wooden mallet from a smaller tree, using the root/stump for the head... Your wedges will last a long time. 

I've even heard of guys tempering them.


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## tawilson (Mar 5, 2010)

It's pretty easy to cut them with a chainsaw out of a stump. I've got lot's of stumps.


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## cedarman (Mar 5, 2010)

thanks for all the replys!


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## Mike Van (Mar 5, 2010)

One of those steel wedges uncle M's got pictured looks like a maul head. For anyone reading that doesn't know, don't be driving that with a hammer. The faces being the same hardness, I saw a chunk come out of one once that would have got someone as good as a bullet. Most steel wedges have too much angle, and will tend to bounce back out of a cut. Beech would be a good wood too for making your own.


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## nanuk (Mar 5, 2010)

*Great Advice.*



Mike Van said:


> One of those steel wedges uncle M's got pictured looks like a maul head. For anyone reading that doesn't know, don't be driving that with a hammer. The faces being the same hardness, I saw a chunk come out of one once that would have got someone as good as a bullet.



Safety First.

Protective eyewear is a must when hitting steel with steel


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## unclemoustache (Mar 5, 2010)

Mike Van said:


> One of those steel wedges uncle M's got pictured looks like a maul head. For anyone reading that doesn't know, don't be driving that with a hammer. The faces being the same hardness, I saw a chunk come out of one once that would have got someone as good as a bullet. Most steel wedges have too much angle, and will tend to bounce back out of a cut. Beech would be a good wood too for making your own.




Well, perhaps I'd better explain myself. I posted those as a joke - It would be foolish to use splitting wedges as felling wedges for the reasons you mentioned (and more).

Don't ever take me seriously. I'm never serious. Really, I'm not. Seriously. 


Here's a photo of a good wedgie to use:


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## stihl sawing (Mar 5, 2010)

I might use wooden ones for bucking, Just to hold the kerf open but for felling i'll just keep ordering the plastic ones. Don't need one to bust when it needs to work. The only reason they may be handy for bucking is you can leave them there and not worry about losing them. Usually when i'm bucking they tend to get covered by the rounds being rolled around and saw chips. Have left a couple in the woods before.


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## Gologit (Mar 6, 2010)

unclemoustache said:


> Well, perhaps I'd better explain myself. I posted those as a joke - It would be foolish to use splitting wedges as felling wedges for the reasons you mentioned (and more).
> 
> Don't ever take me seriously. I'm never serious. Really, I'm not. Seriously.



LOL...Most of us knew you were joking. Well, some of us, anyway. I hope they knew _I_ was joking about the sparks and night falling and all that.


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## Gologit (Mar 6, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> I might use wooden ones for bucking, Just to hold the kerf open but for felling i'll just keep ordering the plastic ones. Don't need one to bust when it needs to work. The only reason they may be handy for bucking is you can leave them there and not worry about losing them. Usually when i'm bucking they tend to get covered by the rounds being rolled around and saw chips. Have left a couple in the woods before.



You know you're in trouble when you've used all your wedges, things still aren't going right, and you have to whittle some wedges really really really fast with your axe. Looks like one of those Ginsu Knife commercials.


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## stihl sawing (Mar 6, 2010)

Gologit said:


> You know you're in trouble when you've used all your wedges, things still aren't going right, and you have to whittle some wedges really really really fast with your axe. Looks like one of those Ginsu Knife commercials.


LOL, Ain't that the truth.


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## gwiley (Mar 8, 2010)

Gologit said:


> You know you're in trouble when you've used all your wedges, things still aren't going right, and you have to whittle some wedges really really really fast with your axe. Looks like one of those Ginsu Knife commercials.



yesterday I was taking down a 24" DBH red oak that was 6' from the house with a little backlean toward the house. Got my 3 wedges in and realized that I needed another one - NOW. Reach into the pouch and nada...quick sprint to the gear bag 20' away and alls well.

That was a seriously scary experience - the guy on the pull rope 100' away says "Gee, your face looked kinda red, what was up?" It was his house so I didn't want to tell him that I was thinking about how close we were to an insurance event 

Lesson - one the larger trees where proerty is at risk keep extra wedges in every pocket you have.


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## Trapper_Pete (Mar 19, 2017)

I was thinking about this thread yesterday , and while I normally have a few of the poly wedges in my tool bag and use them I thought I would try cutting a few from some ash limb

then for the test , split a large log I had laying around my wood processing area 

I had also just cleaned out the back of my truck and found my little backup to my backup saw that lives in the back of the truck a little Poulan 210 that I was given for free because it didn't run, I cleaned it up and it runs decent now , so I gassed that up and cut some wedges from an ash limb that had fallen in my yard and went over and cut some notches in the large log
to place the wedges , then beat them in splitting the log I cut another notch and split it the other way , I was beating on the wedges and was surprised they were not coming apart 

give it a try when you taking down a tree make the shallowest angle cut you can on a limb then cut it perpendicular then another shallow angle cut then perpendicular and you have some wedges , at least for bucking if not for felling and if you loose them no big deal.


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## unclemoustache (Mar 19, 2017)

I made some felling wedges out of an oak 2x4. They do break into pieces, so I have a few 2x2 size now. I decided it wasn't worth it and bought a few more plastic ones. Maybe making them out of free wood rather than an expensive 2x4 might be a better idea since they are so brittle.


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 19, 2017)

John Ellison said:


> I like the plastic ones. I've got this mental image of me hurriedly grabing a splintery wooden wedge out of my back pocket and........



My dealer also likes them...and me. I seem to lose them regularly. Don't ask how you lose a bright yellow object as I don't know.


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## turnkey4099 (Mar 19, 2017)

gwiley said:


> yesterday I was taking down a 24" DBH red oak that was 6' from the house with a little backlean toward the house. Got my 3 wedges in and realized that I needed another one - NOW. Reach into the pouch and nada...quick sprint to the gear bag 20' away and alls well.
> 
> That was a seriously scary experience - the guy on the pull rope 100' away says "Gee, your face looked kinda red, what was up?" It was his house so I didn't want to tell him that I was thinking about how close we were to an insurance event
> 
> Lesson - one the larger trees where proerty is at risk keep extra wedges in every pocket you have.



Lesson - two Before tackling a hazard tree ask what it will cost IF and decide if you'll continue. OnN my last one I almost lost it over a mobile home. Still shaking when I got home. No more hazards for me.


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