# Auxiliary Oiler Needed?



## AaronB (Nov 14, 2009)

How can you tell when you need an Auxiliary oiler when milling? Or if you have one how can you tell when you need to turn it on?

and does it matter which side the hole is on in the bar to supply the extra oil?

Wondering what signs to look for.
Thanks
Aaron


----------



## mtngun (Nov 14, 2009)

Not sure about "signs," but if I forget to turn my aux oiler on, I usually notice that the saw is working a bit harder and not cutting quite as fast. Seems like it makes about a 5% improvement.

Really no downside to the aux oiler since it uses very little oil. It puts the oil where it is needed most so very little oil is required.

Depends on your saw's oiler, I guess. Modern Stihls are pretty stingy with bar oil unless you install the hi-output oiler. Not sure about Huskies.


----------



## oldsaw (Nov 14, 2009)

If you are running a 36" bar or bigger, you really need one. Unless you like buying bars and chain. I don't.

I have mine mounted before the nose, but I do flip it and it is after the nose then. Don't think it matters that much, just get oil on it before that final stretch around the bar.

So, you go mill some yet?


----------



## AaronB (Nov 14, 2009)

oldsaw said:


> So, you go mill some yet?



Thanksgiving weekend I will be milling, as long as the weather is a little decent, doesn't have to be great.

Trying to get my guide boards set up, true and square. 12 ft pieces of lumber don't really come that straight. BobL mentioned Unistrut to me so I am going to look for it and see what its like.


----------



## dustytools (Nov 14, 2009)

My Granberg bar is set up so that the oiler holes can be either before or after the nose sprocket. I keep my aux. oiler after the turn because I feel that the saw oiler will keep the top oiled and the aux. will keep the bottom of the bar oiled, I also feel that there is less oil to be slung off of the bar if the oil is supplied after the turn.


----------



## BobL (Nov 14, 2009)

dustytools said:


> My Granberg bar is set up so that the oiler holes can be either before or after the nose sprocket. I keep my aux. oiler after the turn because I feel that the saw oiler will keep the top oiled and the aux. will keep the bottom of the bar oiled, I also feel that there is less oil to be slung off of the bar if the oil is supplied after the turn.


+1

Short term signs (not all that easy to identify)
- chain and bar get hotter 
- chain looks dryer
- powerhead has to work harder and hotter
- reduced cutting speed 

Longer term the chain and bar wear faster.


----------



## mtngun (Nov 14, 2009)

AaronB said:


> and does it matter which side the hole is on in the bar to supply the extra oil?


Granberg recommends drilling the bar for a special oil fitting, but I'd suggest letting the oiler simply drip onto the sprocket nose instead. Saves the trouble of drilling bars, saves the trouble of unplugging the fitting which tends to plug with sawdust, frees up an inch of bar, and seems to work just as well.


----------



## AaronB (Nov 14, 2009)

mtngun said:


> Granberg recommends drilling the bar for a special oil fitting, but I'd suggest letting the oiler simply drip onto the sprocket nose instead. Saves the trouble of drilling bars, saves the trouble of unplugging the fitting which tends to plug with sawdust, frees up an inch of bar, and seems to work just as well.




Well if it works and gets oil to the bar where needed then I may just try that so I don't have to drill the bars.

Thanks for the tip.


----------



## woodsrunner (Nov 14, 2009)

dustytools said:


> My Granberg bar is set up so that the oiler holes can be either before or after the nose sprocket. I keep my aux. oiler after the turn because I feel that the saw oiler will keep the top oiled and the aux. will keep the bottom of the bar oiled, I also feel that there is less oil to be slung off of the bar if the oil is supplied after the turn.



+1

I do the same and have found it to work well this way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtngun View Post
Granberg recommends drilling the bar for a special oil fitting, but I'd suggest letting the oiler simply drip onto the sprocket nose instead. Saves the trouble of drilling bars, saves the trouble of unplugging the fitting which tends to plug with sawdust, frees up an inch of bar, and seems to work just as well.


I do the same and it works great for me.

Scott


----------



## BobL (Nov 14, 2009)

mtngun said:


> Granberg recommends drilling the bar for a special oil fitting, but I'd suggest letting the oiler simply drip onto the sprocket nose instead. Saves the trouble of drilling bars, saves the trouble of unplugging the fitting which tends to plug with sawdust, frees up an inch of bar, and seems to work just as well.


+1

Here's my aux oil drip system. I used a piece of allthread brass rod as the drip tube so I can put it very close to the chain so the oil wicks onto the moving chain rather than dropping and splashing off the chain. If the brass accidently touches the chain the brass just wears it away without damaging the chain. The drip system works on both hard and sprocket nose bars.


----------



## AaronB (Nov 24, 2009)

What type of "tip" do you use for the drip system? I have everything I need except for the tip to deliver the oil.


----------



## BobL (Nov 24, 2009)

AaronB said:


> What type of "tip" do you use for the drip system? I have everything I need except for the tip to deliver the oil.



Read my previous post.


----------



## AaronB (Nov 24, 2009)

BobL said:


> Read my previous post.



The tip of it, did you make it smooth like that?

Thanks, Aaron


----------



## BobL (Nov 24, 2009)

AaronB said:


> The tip of it, did you make it smooth like that?
> 
> Thanks, Aaron



I was going to take it into work and turn it on the lathe, but instead did it in a drill press and using a hand file.


----------



## mtngun (Nov 24, 2009)

My crude drip fitting, just a homemade metal tube welded to the granberg. 





Placement is not critical. As long as the oil lands on the nose, it will eventually find its way to the chain -- where else can it go ?


----------



## rfalk (Nov 24, 2009)

*drilling a chainsaw bar is a PITA*



mtngun said:


> Granberg recommends drilling the bar for a special oil fitting, but I'd suggest letting the oiler simply drip onto the sprocket nose instead. Saves the trouble of drilling bars, saves the trouble of unplugging the fitting which tends to plug with sawdust, frees up an inch of bar, and seems to work just as well.



+1 on the drip method....i just used a plastic tie to hold a plastic tube from the oiler to a spot just above the chain....drip,drip....works great


----------



## Andrew96 (Nov 25, 2009)

mtngun, I see from your photo that you have lots of dust stuck to the bar/mill assembly with all the oil. Is it also like that down at the saw end? I don't really seem to get any oil down at the saw flung off or anything...barely any at the tip, though my oiler is turned up full . Does that mean I don't have enough?


----------

