# 3 cut method



## WolverineMarine (Sep 9, 2008)

I was trimming some trees in my own yard this weekend (a silver maple and a black locust)and was attempting to use the 3 cut method, but I must have done something wrong, hence...why I'm asking for some guidance. I made the undercut about a foot up the branch from where I intended to make my final cut to prevent peeling, and I came back about 4-5"s from that to make my pass through cut. Now where I think I got mixed up was not making the cut farther out on the branch as opposed to closer. I still ended up peeling a little back..I feel like a bozo now knowing some of my neighbors know I trim trees on the side and my own trees look like crap.
Oh well..gotta learn the right way by doing the wrong way a few times I guess..LOL


----------



## WolverineMarine (Sep 9, 2008)

Ok..let me try and pull my foot out of my mouth a little here..the actually job overall that I did looked great..but..from a professional stand-point, a full time arborist would look at the cut sites and say.."he should have used the 3 step method", "f:censored: ing home owner screwed that up"..or something of the sort..and I don't like like image in my head in the least bit..anways..that's ma story..and I'm sticking to it..I'll take pics if someone asks for proof..LOL


----------



## Nailsbeats (Sep 9, 2008)

I don't even know what the "3 cut method" is. I usually only make 2 cuts on horizontal limbs, an undercut and meet it from the top if I want the piece to fall the same as it is sitting, or an undercut and cut a little bit back if I want it to tip down and release.


----------



## Wortown Mick (Sep 9, 2008)

Undercut, top cut, pruning cut on the branch collar to remove the stub.. make it a deliberate smooth cut for pro results.


----------



## WolverineMarine (Sep 9, 2008)

I think I know where I screwed up now..I think I made my 1st 2 cuts too far apart..they should have been a couple inches..as opposed to around a foot apart..so theres a nice little snap and release from the stub..thanks for the help guys!


----------



## lxt (Sep 9, 2008)

A good sharp saw preferably the 200t & 1 cut is all you need, peels......put some dirt/mud on it!! utility guys do...it works!


LXT..........


----------



## ATH (Sep 9, 2008)

the times I have had problems is when I get lazy and don't make the undercut deep enough. but yeah...don't make the second cut too far away.


----------



## Rftreeman (Sep 9, 2008)

lxt said:


> A good sharp saw preferably the 200t & 1 cut is all you need, peels......put some dirt/mud on it!! utility guys do...it works!
> 
> 
> LXT..........


you guys always pick on us utility guys utilty guys are some of the best trained people out there

I think you probably didn't make the under cut deep enough is the reason why it peeled..


----------



## booboo (Sep 10, 2008)

ATH said:


> the times I have had problems is when I get lazy and don't make the undercut deep enough. but yeah...don't make the second cut too far away.



+1. Make the undercut deep enough that it won't peel, not so deep that the weight starts to settle on the saw, 1/3 is a pretty good rule of thumb. Make the 2nd cut just a couple of inches away. Both cuts should be pretty close to the collar so that when you make your final cut it's a pretty small piece without a lot of weight so it won't peel. Keep in mind that different wood is more prone to peeling than others and at different times of year. On a big cut it can be worth it to make a small vertical cut on either side of the branch between where you're going to snap the piece off and the collar cut to help prevent peeling, don't know what it's called, I just call them wing cuts. Same thing as you'd do to prevent fiber pulls dropping a butt, except that it's on a branch.


----------



## Rftreeman (Sep 10, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> Sounds good.
> 
> .....and from another thread:
> 
> ...


I'm not suggesting anything other than the fact that spikes aren't good for the tree but they WILL NOT kill it, I think I along with many other people who learned that trade via the utility company got very good training, 20 years ago (when I was trained) spikes where the norm and I was trained to use them, later on I had the choice to learn to foot lock and did learn how to but I'm 285# now so there ain't a whole lot of foot locking going on here so if I need a tree trimmed then I call a guy who works for, guess who, yep, the utility company and he does the spike-less trims for me but I think if you read the question that goes with the answer that you quoted then you'd understand what I was talking about in that quote, a majority of the people here think that any person that works for or comes from the utility side of this industry is just a hack, well, that ain't so, what if I made cracks about certified arborist being total class room nerds and that they didn't know crap about what goes on in the field, you'd get tired of hearing it sooner or later just like I get tired of hearing it.


----------



## treemandan (Sep 10, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> I don't even know what the "3 cut method" is. I usually only make 2 cuts on horizontal limbs, an undercut and meet it from the top if I want the piece to fall the same as it is sitting, or an undercut and cut a little bit back if I want it to tip down and release.



Uhm, we are talking about pruning work here, Nails. This is not the " let's bring down the whole world at once forum". 
The proper 3 point cut? Well yeah, you will have some fun with that until you realize what can happen if you use it all the time. But still, Nails, the 3 cut is the finish cut on the stub. Got to keep your chops up on the finish cut.


----------



## treemandan (Sep 10, 2008)

lxt said:


> A good sharp saw preferably the 200t & 1 cut is all you need, peels......put some dirt/mud on it!! utility guys do...it works!
> 
> 
> LXT..........



Someone needs a nap.


----------



## treemandan (Sep 10, 2008)

Rftreeman said:


> you guys always pick on us utility guys utilty guys are some of the best trained people out there
> 
> I think you probably didn't make the under cut deep enough is the reason why it peeled..



Keep up the good work, F-nuts. I mean that in the best way and am behind you 100%, thanks for your hard work and dedication. Wherever there is a client complaining about clearance work The Dan steps up for the defense. He says" you should've done it yo gat dam self."


----------



## treemandan (Sep 10, 2008)

booboo said:


> +1. Make the undercut deep enough that it won't peel, not so deep that the weight starts to settle on the saw, 1/3 is a pretty good rule of thumb. Make the 2nd cut just a couple of inches away. Both cuts should be pretty close to the collar so that when you make your final cut it's a pretty small piece without a lot of weight so it won't peel. Keep in mind that different wood is more prone to peeling than others and at different times of year. On a big cut it can be worth it to make a small vertical cut on either side of the branch between where you're going to snap the piece off and the collar cut to help prevent peeling, don't know what it's called, I just call them wing cuts. Same thing as you'd do to prevent fiber pulls dropping a butt, except that it's on a branch.



That is a real good term, " wing cuts". The Dan abides.
The Dan also says that that traditonal 3 point cut they depict in many a schoolbook is best suited for handsaw work and if you keep it up running 20's through meaty stuff with that cut plan on losing the saw OR getting your money's worth out of those cute saw lanyards.
Follow this:
So you got a 6 to 9 inch horizantal branch and you want it gone. You are in the tree hopefully tied in above and are not using a rope to lower it, you have a clear shot. It sound like a typical senerio so what is a bro to do.
I am asking you, you tell me. How is it handled and what is the outcome and why?
You are right there at the butt of the branch, it might not have to be completely horizontal and tied in above hanging on the friction hitch, its just a normal live branch attach to a mature yard tree, alls it will do is go down... What is the next step? What kind of cut do you use? Anybody? Anybody?


----------



## JS Landscaping (Sep 10, 2008)

When you use the 3 cut method, your first under cut is roughly 1/3 of the branch diamiter, as stated before....make sure your next cut is farther out on the limb by about an inch...if you cut behind your undercut, (closer to the tree) it can defeat the purpose of the undercut, then finish with a nice clean final cut. Usually my 1st and 2nd cuts are only a foot out onto the branch, that way your final cut has doesnt have too much weight to it at all, thus preventing peeling...the softwoods are known to peel...the side or verticle cuts are called Kerf cuts out here in NY...As you progress with your skill level you can learn how to use notches to direct where your limb will fall to and how it will fall...Good Luck!


----------



## WolverineMarine (Sep 10, 2008)

To all the senior members, MVP's, and those with the know how beyond my skill level and understanding..I want say thank you for all of your help with this thread..and all the others I seem to come up with..you guys are a testiment to the brotherhood of the love tree work..not trying to be a brown nose..or sappy..for lack of the ability to shake hands..this is as close as I can come..


----------



## booboo (Sep 10, 2008)

"We are basically talking making horizontal 'snap cuts'."

Bingo!

Dan, the answer to your question is that this method works fine on bigger wood too. My cute little chainsaw lanyard is homemade and works just fine, thank you. Saw's been yanked out of my hands more than once, that's what the lanyard is for!

As for the kerf cuts, well, I'm in NY and I haven't heard that up here, but we're talking about the same thing, so it's all good.


----------



## JS Landscaping (Sep 10, 2008)

Thanks for the tip TreeCo. Gonna give it a shot tomorow with the way you suggested if I have any snap cuts to make...Guess Ive been lucky and havent had the saw yanked outa my hand yet from the method I was taught.


----------



## treemandan (Sep 10, 2008)

Wolf Man, about that Pm: same thing Treeco mentioned.

Boo-boo Not busting on the saw lanyard, if you want it YOU GOT IT, that's my motto when it comes to gear and such BUT you might want to get a breakaway lanyard for the times when it really gets deep Personally, after so many years, the sight of my 20 falling away below me is quite entertaining and I awlays like to watch them land. Sometimes they stick in the ground by the bar and are fine, sometimes they hit the concrete and exploded like a melon.
I only had saw yanked by the classic 3 point once, I didn't lose the saw but stopped using that cut. I usually just drop em or they pop out of my holding clip on my saddle if I jump to much.
Watch yourself with that classic 3 point cut. I am still looking for the idiot CA who told me to do it, he owes me a chain.


----------



## TreeBot (Sep 10, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> Glad to help. I've bent a few chains and bars in my time having saws get hung in a cut on some really big stuff.



I learned that lesson the hard way to. My first 020T got caught in a 10" 40' cotton wood limb. The limb was at 45 degrees. I really didn't want to let go of that saw when it stuck. I actually managed to hold on long enough to swing the limb down but when all the weight hit at the bottom the limb didn't let go of the saw and there was no way I was going to hold it. So it slammed into the turf from 40' up. For some reason that saw always ran a little funny after that lol.


----------



## TreeBot (Sep 10, 2008)

treemandan said:


> Wolf Man, about that Pm: same thing Treeco mentioned.
> 
> Boo-boo Not busting on the saw lanyard, if you want it YOU GOT IT, that's my motto when it comes to gear and such BUT you might want to get a breakaway lanyard



I know that many people operate differently, but I never use a lanyard for my saw. Being tied to a running saw while standing in a tree just doesn't seem like a good idea to me.


----------



## treeseer (Sep 10, 2008)

Branches and stubs should be roped if they are likely to wound buttress roots when they fall. That, or lay something down to protect them.

:wave:


----------



## Slvrmple72 (Sep 10, 2008)

Treeseer, what would you consider the safest maximum diameter of a living limb to remove on a tree? I will cut off up to 4" dia limbs without too much concern but I let homeowners know their options when they want a primary limb removed and the consequences ( eventual trunk cavitation/rot/failure ). I use the 3 cut method but also have learned to do the 2 cut quickie. If its a takedown... the one cut let'er rrrrrrriiiiiiiiipppp!!!!!


----------



## Nailsbeats (Sep 10, 2008)

treemandan said:


> Uhm, we are talking about pruning work here, Nails. This is not the " let's bring down the whole world at once forum".
> The proper 3 point cut? Well yeah, you will have some fun with that until you realize what can happen if you use it all the time. But still, Nails, the 3 cut is the finish cut on the stub. Got to keep your chops up on the finish cut.



Turns out, I use the 3 cut method all the time, without the gay name though. This aint the tear it up forum? Well sh1t, I am in the wrong one again. Go line clearance!!!!!!!


----------



## Nailsbeats (Sep 10, 2008)

As far as the horizontal snap cut, yeah, keep that second cut behind the undercut not further out, thats how you lose saws. 

I like to meet the undercut and top cut when I want them to land just how they sit, but I always stay even or half a kerf back. The further you go back the more the limb will tip down before it can release, go out to even and the limb drops how it's sitting. 

I have never lost a saw yet with the limb, I've had them yanked but always tied off. I have watched my brother and maybe even my dad lose a few. 

Those kerf cuts are called wings, ears, pins and many others I am sure, Oldirty got me hooked on calling them "pins", he doesn't know what it stands for but I say it stands for personal insurance. Later guys.


----------



## booboo (Sep 11, 2008)

TreeBot said:


> I know that many people operate differently, but I never use a lanyard for my saw. Being tied to a running saw while standing in a tree just doesn't seem like a good idea to me.



The guy I climb with never uses one either. Different strokes for different folks...


----------



## treemandan (Sep 11, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Turns out, I use the 3 cut method all the time, without the gay name though. This aint the tear it up forum? Well sh1t, I am in the wrong one again. Go line clearance!!!!!!!



Yup, that is how it turns out. 3 cuts, everybody is doing it... but how is very important.
I shy away from just a little underslice and try to use a small notch for an undercut. The extra few seconds allows for saw retrieval.
Also I tend to use a jump cut, when I do I use a DEEP undercut that is gauranteed to pinch the saw. I tend to " rabbit" it out a little then yank the saw out just as it closes, just rev it up and hit the top... keep your face out the way. This works good for some stuff.


----------



## treemandan (Sep 11, 2008)

treeseer said:


> Branches and stubs should be roped if they are likely to wound buttress roots when they fall. That, or lay something down to protect them.
> 
> :wave:



Vey few heed... and they regret it very soon.


----------



## lxt (Sep 14, 2008)

Rftreeman said:


> you guys always pick on us utility guys utilty guys are some of the best trained people out there
> 
> I think you probably didn't make the under cut deep enough is the reason why it peeled..





No...I was a utility guy!! & they do receive excellent training!!


LXT...........


----------



## lxt (Sep 14, 2008)

treemandan said:


> Someone needs a nap.



what are you talking about? some of your posts are just for the sake of a post count uhh? cause many make no sense at all!!

keep pulling yourself up the tree by tying onto your trucks ball hitch & your nap will be permanent!!


LXT........


----------



## md_tree_dood (Sep 22, 2008)

It's nice to hear people asking this stuff because it's important to know, there are so many different aspects of making cuts and you're learning the most basic important one right hear. An interesting topic however has been brought up with chainsaw lanyards and such. When you attatch your lanyard make sure you are clipping it to a breakaway attachment point on your saddle or have a breakaway lanyard (or both). I used a solid lanyard and hook it to breakaway sections (I have at least 3 on my saddle). If you don't have these breakaway sections then purchase a lanyard that will breakaway.


----------



## clearance (Sep 22, 2008)

Rftreeman said:


> I'm not suggesting anything other than the fact that spikes aren't good for the tree but they WILL NOT kill it, I think I along with many other people who learned that trade via the utility company got very good training, 20 years ago (when I was trained) spikes where the norm and I was trained to use them, later on I had the choice to learn to foot lock and did learn how to but I'm 285# now so there ain't a whole lot of foot locking going on here so if I need a tree trimmed then I call a guy who works for, guess who, yep, the utility company and he does the spike-less trims for me but I think if you read the question that goes with the answer that you quoted then you'd understand what I was talking about in that quote, a majority of the people here think that any person that works for or comes from the utility side of this industry is just a hack, well, that ain't so, what if I made cracks about certified arborist being total class room nerds and that they didn't know crap about what goes on in the field, you'd get tired of hearing it sooner or later just like I get tired of hearing it.



Excellent, I agree.


----------



## booboo (Sep 23, 2008)

md_tree_dood said:


> It's nice to hear people asking this stuff because it's important to know, there are so many different aspects of making cuts and you're learning the most basic important one right hear. An interesting topic however has been brought up with chainsaw lanyards and such. When you attatch your lanyard make sure you are clipping it to a breakaway attachment point on your saddle or have a breakaway lanyard (or both). I used a solid lanyard and hook it to breakaway sections (I have at least 3 on my saddle). If you don't have these breakaway sections then purchase a lanyard that will breakaway.



Since I mentioned saw lanyards, I'll add that mine is solid but attached to a breakaway clip on my saddle. Good point. I don't want to send the saw to the ground if it's simply yanked out of may hands (which has happened plenty of times) but also don't want to be pulled apart if the saw ends up bound in a big chunk (which has never happened to me but is certainly possible given that we all have the ability to screw up).


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 5, 2008)

You should use slash cut approach to limbing back trees.make a small face cut on the underside of the limb,and then make your falling cut at an angle towards your face cut.This should let limb fall without tearing or breaking.I hope I explained it clearly enough.


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 5, 2008)

Rftreeman said:


> I'm not suggesting anything other than the fact that spikes aren't good for the tree but they WILL NOT kill it, I think I along with many other people who learned that trade via the utility company got very good training, 20 years ago (when I was trained) spikes where the norm and I was trained to use them, later on I had the choice to learn to foot lock and did learn how to but I'm 285# now so there ain't a whole lot of foot locking going on here so if I need a tree trimmed then I call a guy who works for, guess who, yep, the utility company and he does the spike-less trims for me but I think if you read the question that goes with the answer that you quoted then you'd understand what I was talking about in that quote, a majority of the people here think that any person that works for or comes from the utility side of this industry is just a hack, well, that ain't so, what if I made cracks about certified arborist being total class room nerds and that they didn't know crap about what goes on in the field, you'd get tired of hearing it sooner or later just like I get tired of hearing it.


 Don't ever :censored: put spikes in trees .that the stupidest thing I ever heard


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 5, 2008)

Ivan H. said:


> Don't ever :censored: put spikes in trees .that the stupidest thing I ever heard



Not even on a removal?


----------



## Blakesmaster (Oct 5, 2008)

Ivan H. said:


> Don't ever :censored: put spikes in trees .that the stupidest thing I ever heard



Wow.


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Not even on a removal?


I tought he was talking about driveing spikes into thees not climbing grear sorry


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 6, 2008)

Ivan H. said:


> You should use slash cut approach to limbing back trees.make a small face cut on the underside of the limb,and then make your falling cut at an angle towards your face cut.This should let limb fall without tearing or breaking.I hope I explained it clearly enough.



I'm confused too. Surely you know there are many differents cuts to use depending on how the limb sits and how you want it to fall. Speaking in broad terms saying you should use a certain cut for limbing back trees isn't good practice.


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

I don't know how you guys do stuff back east


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

it depends on the weight and size of the limb


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

when I get done with them on the ground and then I take the limbs off


----------



## Blakesmaster (Oct 6, 2008)

Ivan H. said:


> when I get done with them on the ground and then I take the limbs off



Am I missing something?


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 6, 2008)

It depends on a lot more than that. Is the limb sitting at 45 degrees? is it horizontal? is it vertical? or anywhere in between? Do I want it to land tip first, butt first or flat? Am I putting a butt tie, tip tie or any other combo on it while trying to dodge other limbs during the fall. It all comes into play and calls for different cuts. Making cuts in a tree is like tracking deer, you :censored: that up and game over.


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

their limbs you can cut them into a million pieces.As long you don,t barber chair it.the angle the limbs standing does'nt mater it's going to fall towards the ground.Do you want it to roll way from other trees or property.I thought we where talking about a simple cut.


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 6, 2008)

Clearly you haven't done much arborist work. What are you just limbing up conifers in wide open spaces?


----------



## Blakesmaster (Oct 6, 2008)

Well, Nails, you gonna put 'im outta his misery or let sleeping dogs lie?


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

working on yarder ground, cutting right away you name it


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 6, 2008)

Blakesmaster said:


> Well, Nails, you gonna put 'im outta his misery or let sleeping dogs lie?



Doesn't pay Blakes, just have to smile.


----------



## Blakesmaster (Oct 6, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> Doesn't pay Blakes, just have to smile.



I dunno, boss. I was getting a kick out of it. Doesn't that mean anything to you?


----------



## oldirty (Oct 6, 2008)

im thinking this guy got lost on his way to the logging forum and ended up here.


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 6, 2008)

Blakesmaster said:


> I dunno, boss. I was getting a kick out of it. Doesn't that mean anything to you?



I couldn't do it Blakes, I can't pull the trigger anymore, I'm getting soft, sorry to disappoint.


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

I'm interested in all aspecks of cutting and milling wood including trimming . Cutting is cutting right.


----------



## Blakesmaster (Oct 6, 2008)

oldirty said:


> im thinking this guy got lost on his way to the logging forum and ended up here.



Right, cause we all know how easy felling is. All you need's the three cut method, right?


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

Is that what they call tree trimmers back east ?


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

I don't know what you mean by that?


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 6, 2008)

Ivan H. said:


> I'm interested in all aspecks of cutting and milling wood including trimming . Cutting is cutting right.



That's good. Cutting is not cutting, different techniques and methods apply depending on things like terrain, weather, species, and task at hand. The only constant in cutting is gravity. It maybe the same day in and day out with what you do, but in the big picture there are many variations.


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 6, 2008)

IT's not rocket science. Learned by experience.


----------



## motoroilmccall (Oct 6, 2008)

No... Its not Rocket Science, but you need to gain experience from someone who knows what they are doing before you just go at it. Its an art kid, and just like art, some people are good at it naturally, others will never be any good at it no matter how much experience they get.


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 7, 2008)

motoroilmccall said:


> No... Its not Rocket Science, but you need to gain experience from someone who knows what they are doing before you just go at it. Its an art kid, and just like art, some people are good at it naturally, others will never be any good at it no matter how much experience they get.




That is about it in a nutshell, perfectly stated.


----------



## Bigus Termitius (Oct 7, 2008)

If it tis art then I'm no doubt an abstract surrealist.


----------



## TheTreeSpyder (Oct 14, 2008)

Cutting on the moving side of the works maid by primary undercut can take saw. On ground bucking, that can be either side that is sprung, heavier etc., but in tree that will be green side from trunk. 

The amount of undercut that can be taken, depends on the leveraged load and wood diameter and type. The more the load, length and angle, the sooner the collapse. This kerfing is kinda a full face dutching; and ya can use that some by belling the light side a lil wider if really off balance or trying to allow some turn. This would work the compression on close harder/earlier on the heavy side. This goes to looking at both sides of the face as separate adjustmeants, not a single, generic one straight across. More able to tweak to balance of limb across itself with that imagery/model.

Deeper undercuts are better, prevent more damage (short of getting saw cut)under cut is not just the rip stop, it is also the support mechanism at close, before tearoff. The inside of cut becomes hinge pivot, the outside as it closes the support, and distance between the leveraged multiplier to the push up at close. This relieving "hinge pull" to stretch out fibres on the inside of the branch as it tears, leaves less disruption inside the cut. More leveraged support/ less leveraged load gives less internal stretch and rip of fibers stressing. Also prevents exterior ripping. You can tweak hear too, by kerfing heavy side first, light side will be the one to have more tendency to stay open anyway.. But; if i had a choice, i'd make both sides even, if any deeper the heavier side for more close force(and on back side/final cut light side cut last will give less pull to heavyside, and more sudden drop IMLHO). Remember the heavy side all ways closes harder and the far backside(lean, control side) always pulls for you; allow them to work, use them!

ANY rip of any cell vessels carrying water violates by allowing possible air embolism, collapsing cohesion. The cohesion is what allows the weak pull of transpiration to pull water up. So, any violation is immediately plugged on both sides, and water then takes a route through cell walls to another vessel and continues. The area that is routed around dies. So, if this is the parent part or worse collar, there is longer/harder sealing; which is already an 'expensive' process to tree. Even just rips in bark is a violation, because now outer layer of wood must die out to protect inner from elements, and this dead wood layer is not as breathable as bark. Same for removing leaves, the top part of soil must die out, and is more compactable/less breathable than loose leaf layer protecting soil sea. Also leaf/stick layer provides spreading out of impact/footprint as well as reducing dynamic shocks compressing soil (another fair reason for low impact limbing/roping).

Even a good final cut on the outside, might have such disruption inside to invite more chance for infection etc. A fast saw can help with cleaner cut, as well as winging to have less wood to come thru per second, to get more sudden detatch-meant. Once again the kerf wing can be deeper on the heavy side, giving more pull to light side, and more balanced and quick release sum times for better straight drop suddenly. Which of course with parachute leaves on limb is probably softest non-rigged landing

Spiking preservation/non-removals is not maximum. If you really rely your life and full time on the rope rather than the spikes; you'll Learn a LOT more about rope and it's reactions and uses innately. This can effect your rigging, climbing etc. immensely, a whole knew world. i even advocate not spiking easier removals, just for practice; and to accelerate your L-earning curves purposefully. . Of course when safety issues arise, and it is you or the tree, apologies to your friend are in order, to maintain the spirit of care. IMLHO.


Orrrrrrrrrrrr sumetin like'dat 
:angrysoapbox:


----------



## Nailsbeats (Oct 14, 2008)

TheTreeSpyder said:


> Cutting on the moving side of the works maid by primary undercut can take saw. On ground bucking, that can be either side that is sprung, heavier etc., but in tree that will be green side from trunk.
> 
> The amount of undercut that can be taken, depends on the leveraged load and wood diameter and type. The more the load, length and angle, the sooner the collapse. This kerfing is kinda a full face dutching; and ya can use that some by belling the light side a lil wider if really off balance or trying to allow some turn. This would work the compression on close harder/earlier on the heavy side. This goes to looking at both sides of the face as separate adjustmeants, not a single, generic one straight across. More able to tweak to balance of limb across itself with that imagery/model.
> 
> ...




I think what you are trying to say is, "cutting is cutting", right? lol.


----------



## Ivan H. (Oct 15, 2008)

Tree spider, where did you find that information,the encyclopedia?You forgot the part about cutting hollow limbs and trunks opcorn:


----------

