# 076 for chainsaw milling



## Aussie076 (Jun 27, 2022)

Hi all.....I'm just getting started into chainsaw milling.....and I love it.

What's everyone thoughts and tips for using a Stihl 076 Super for chainsaw milling?

Cheers 
Royden


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## BobL (Jun 27, 2022)

I milled about 50 logs with an 076.
This was the first log I milled with it, a short Liquid Amber


Pros:
loads of grunt
exhaust located away from log side - this means the exhaust gas doesn't bounce off the log and up into operators face

Cons
Chains adjustment position is awkward
Can't add fuel easily up while in cut position
Inboard sprocket - not easy to change drive sprockets quickly

I now use an 880 on my bigger mills. I've kept the 076 as a reserve saw but haven used it for about 12 years.
Cut speed is not that different in <30" diameter logs.


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## Aussie076 (Jun 28, 2022)

Thanks Bob

I think there a great saw, however you do raise great points, 

Did you use an aux oiler or was the saws output enough?

Here's some pic of my first slabs with the 076.


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## stihltech (Jun 28, 2022)

Great saw for milling. What you need is a tractor and not a hot rod. Is newer better? Sure. But in the day 051/076 were the logger saws.


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## Bostonstrongboy1965 (Jun 28, 2022)

Could not agree more with Bob L's points. It is a powerhouse, but you will need frequent re-fueling, and the fuel cap location will necessitate taking the saw out each time should you run out mid cut. That will make you pull your hair out!


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## BobL (Jun 28, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> Thanks Bob
> 
> I think there a great saw, however you do raise great points,
> 
> ...


Yes I used an aux oiler as oil output is only about 20 mL/min (the 880 is about double that). I even use an aux oiler on the 880.
This is the oil tank made by by BIL from a piece of 4" Al tubing.
The oiler tap is now connected via a cable to a bicycle gear lever located near the operator so it could be switched on/off and adjusted at the operators position.


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## Aussie076 (Jun 28, 2022)

Thanks, I really like my 076.......

Running a 42" bar with standard chain, it seems a bit slow in the cut, should I be using ripping chain. 

I have attached a pic of my saw with most recent slab.

Is there any extra maintenance I should look at with this particular saw


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## BobL (Jun 29, 2022)

RE: Maintenance
I found I hade to service the clutch drum needle bearing more often than I though would be needed. They need to be removed and cleaned and re-
greased about every dozen logs or so.
Knock out air filter every 3-4 hours.
Keep bar groove and b&C oil path clear of oily sawdust.

RE: Slow cutting
The first thing I would look at are rakers,
Do you know about progressive raker depth settings?
Post s close up side on picture of one of your cutters and I will give you a diagnosis.
Like this if you can'


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## Aussie076 (Jun 30, 2022)

Thanks Bob

Could you explain what you mean by clutch drum bearing and how to remove and clean,

In regards to the chain I'll also need help with what progressive raker depths is

Here is attached picture requested


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## Aussie076 (Jun 30, 2022)

Attached


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## BobL (Jun 30, 2022)

OK the first thing I'm seeing is a lack of consistency between these 3 cutters,



- cutter 1) looks like it has more hook than 2 and 3.
- the raker on 1) and 2) look lower than 3) which is definitely too high
It looks like you have taken some of raker 2 (its more triangular) but nothing of rakers 3 and 4 (not labelled)
The rakers actually dig a little bit into the wood which along with cutter hook determines how much depth the cutter can bite. Its pointless have rakers that re too high and razor sharp cutters, This just makes loads of fine dust.

There also looks like there is gaps under the ruler at 2) this means that cutter is shorter than teh others.
First thing I would do is get the cutters all looking a bit more alike.

RE: Progressive raker setting
Try this https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/cs-milling-101-hints-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-8#post-5712979
There's link there to the Hot saws "chain sharpening forum" - where the top sticky (Are FOP really progressive depth raker generators?) is all on progressive chain sharpening and was started by yours truly 13 years ago.

The bottom line is the rakers depts needs to change as the chain wears. The 0.025" raker gauges are basically a waste of time after the first couple of sharpens because by then the rakers should be 0,03". Anyway those links will hopefully explain but get back to me if you are unsure.


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## Aussie076 (Jul 1, 2022)

Thanks, Bob

Very interesting....my chain is only about 10 cuts old...

Would the rakers be wrong after 2 sharpens?


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## HumBurner (Jul 1, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> Thanks, Bob
> 
> Very interesting....my chain is only about 10 cuts old...
> 
> Would the rakers be wrong after 2 sharpens?




Some of us go ahead and take the depth gauges down a hair on a brand new chain. I do it if I have time. For most larger saws, stock chain is a little lackluster. Even on smaller saws I still prefer an aggressive chain.


Two to three sharpenings at the beginning would warrant a lick or three off the depths. Just dont go crazy with it. Light, short strokes are better than a long stroke with lots of pressure applied.


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## BobL (Jul 1, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> Thanks, Bob
> 
> Very interesting....my chain is only about 10 cuts old...
> 
> Would the rakers be wrong after 2 sharpens?


The first thing i do with stock chain is drop the rakers.


The KPI for rakers are the angle between the raker/cutter tip/wood (or on the picture above, the ruler. I call this the "raker angle".

On new 3/8 chain chain the raker depth is 0.025" which converts to a raker angle of 5.7º.
Another way to look at this is the "gullet width" (0.25" on a new chain) to "raker depth" (0.025") ratio, on stock new chain this is 0.25/0.025 or 10:1
As the cutters wear, to maintain the same ratios the rakers have to be dropped even further. so when the gullet reaches 0.3 teh rakers should be at a minimum dropped to 0.03"

On my 880 and 076 I like to use a raker angle of 6.5º or a ratio of 9:1, which corresponds to a raker depth of 0,28 on a new chain. but I usually set it to a bit more eg 0.03" to just get me ahead of the game. On my 041 with 25" bar and Lopro chain I use 7.5º which is a ratio of 7.5:1 on new chain this is a raker depth of 0.033"

2 sharpenings might not seem much but it depends on how much metal you removed. For low dust cutting a minimum raker depth should be 1/10 (corresponds to about of them gullet width but with a big saw like an 076 in Aussie hardwoods, 1/9 is a better ratio to work with and if teh logs are narrow I swap from a 7 pin drive sproket to an 9 pin,

If all this maths is not your bag just use the method my dad used. Drop your rakers by taking 3 swipe of each raker and try a full bar length cut. If it goes OK, swipe 3 more times of each raker and try again. and keep doing this until the the chain starts to grab and it might even stall the saw, This means you have gone too far so now take a few swipes off each cutter to get you back to optimum, Measure the raker depth with feeler gauges and that is your sweet spot BUT only for that power head that specific cutter length, that chain.bar length, in that wood etc.

Better still, measure the gullet width and raker depth and work out the ratio and that will be the ratio for ANY cutter length but once again, only for that power head, that chain.bar length, in that wood etc.

Confusing as heck.??? but cuts like a hot knife thru butter all through the life of the chain.


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## Aussie076 (Jul 3, 2022)

Wow.......now that is knowledge

Thanks, heaps for that....the maths is well above my head so will probably have to to with filing them and trying it...then adjust as needed.

Going to try do some more milling this weekend...ill let you know how I go.


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## motolife313 (Jul 4, 2022)

I used one for a little bit. It like to rattle the carb bolts loose but was a low rpm grunter. Did this 40” wide cut with ease. My new 3120 blows it out of the water tho


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## Aussie076 (Jul 12, 2022)

I now understand the pros and cons of using an 076

I love the power of this saw however parts are hard to find. 

I have recently broken my sprocket and now need to replace this.....can anyone tell me how to pull the clutch off and then replace the sprocket?


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## BobL (Jul 12, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> I now understand the pros and cons of using an 076
> 
> I love the power of this saw however parts are hard to find.
> 
> I have recently broken my sprocket and now need to replace this.....can anyone tell me how to pull the clutch off and then replace the sprocket?


What do you mean by "broke the sprocket"?

You really need to get the maintenance and repair manual, I have a paper version (and am not scanning 72 pages) but go to the beg for manuals thread and see if you can get a PDF version.

One thing you will need is a left handed torque wrench to put the clutch not back on properly.


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## Aussie076 (Jul 12, 2022)

The drive sprocket broke in half.....not sure why tho......i was just running as normal.

I have a look through the pdf


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## Aussie076 (Jul 17, 2022)

Thanks bob, do you know where I can buy one of those wrench's?


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## BobL (Jul 17, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> Thanks bob, do you know where I can buy one of those wrench's?


Which wrench?

You need a special wrench to hold the clutch while loosening and tightening it. I made my own from some bits of steel. I'll see if I can find it and post a pic, Its not pretty but it works.

The left hand tightening torque wrench I bought mine from Supercheap Autos about 20 years ago. Mine is TENG tools with a half inch drive.Not many have the left hand torque setting action so check carefully before buying .

The crankshanft also needs to be prevented from rotating while setting the clutch nut torque. You can either use a piston stop that screws into the spark plu OR feed a piece of rope with a knot in it so the piston does not go over TDC. Be careful and make sure you use a clean rope with no loosestraps that might be left inside the cylinder. 

You really need to get the PDF.


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## BobL (Jul 17, 2022)

Had a look for the special wrench - no luck - it must be under the house.

The torque wrench is sometimes called a a bidirectional torque wrench
This is mine https://www.tengtools.com/products/...hes/1-2-torque-wrench-bi-directional-40-210nm

Here is a Kincrome version. https://www.totaltools.com.au/158264-kincrome-1-2inch-40-200nm-torque-wrench-k8501

Some people don't bother with the torque wrench and just crank it on really hard (its 75Nm or 55ft lbs)
I tried that but was sick and tired of picking up the clutch, nut, bearing and sprocket amongst the milled saw dust. Eventually I lost the nut - cost a ferking arm and a leg to get a new one.


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## Aussie076 (Jul 17, 2022)

Thanks Bob......i have the pdf and I fixed the broken spoken using a tool from a local repair shop however I would like to have my own.....thanks for the links...i didn't realise they were that easy to get.


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## BobL (Jul 17, 2022)

I found a local supplier of the Teng tools bidirectional torque wrench 


https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/torque-wrenches/2222955/?relevancy-data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searchHistory=%7B%22enabled%22%3Atrue%7D



$207 - I think I paid around that or maybe a bit more ~20 years ago


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## Aussie076 (Jul 29, 2022)

So I have been using this beast over the last few weeks and I noticed that some of the bolt have vibrated out.

Does anyone know a good way to stop this.....i could use lock tight but I want to be able to take it apart again in the near future.

Cheers Royden


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## Maintenance supervisor (Jul 29, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> So I have been using this beast over the last few weeks and I noticed that some of the bolt have vibrated out.
> 
> Does anyone know a good way to stop this.....i could use lock tight but I want to be able to take it apart again in the near future.
> 
> Cheers Royden


Lock tight tight makes a "removable " thread locker, I've been using the blue with much success, the orange is very strong.


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## FabianRW (Jul 30, 2022)

Had the same issue with the 076 for milling, medium strength thread locker is the solution but also make sure it has proper length bolts in place as it's a common issue and mine were replaced with shorter random ones.

You may also find over time it vibrates and changes it's idle speed, this needs adjusting anyway usually once while milling as the filter clogs up.

If you want the saw to last then run it for a minute either side of milling and once every meter or minute cutting, it has to cool itself at idle. I use that cooling time to check it visually, if it stalls or the starter is pulled back it should be taken apart and cleaned out as the vibrating loose bolts here cause that issue and it should be cleaned out anyway every so often.

Basically all maintenance needs doing more frequently because milling is harsh on it but the 076 has been very reliable and simple to fix when there is an issue. I didn't realize how tight the chains should be in milling at first and that increased vibration, so make sure after they're bedded in that you have them properly tight.
It should cut really well with properly tightened and sharpened chain with less vibration and high accuracy.


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## Aussie076 (Aug 27, 2022)

Has anyone else had issues with the clutch unwinding while running......i had issues today while milling......any ideas to how to fix/ stop this


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## j-jock (Sep 29, 2022)

Bostonstrongboy1965 said:


> Could not agree more with Bob L's points. It is a powerhouse, but you will need frequent re-fueling, and the fuel cap location will necessitate taking the saw out each time should you run out mid cut. That will make you pull your hair out!


I like the saw for milling, but just want to agree with Aussie076. I went back to using a 2100XP, or sometimes a pair of them, simply because it was so much easier to add fuel and oil when you ran out in the middle of a cut. Now, I have a bandsaw mill, and don't alaska mill much anymore.


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## Ryk (Sep 29, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> Hi all.....I'm just getting started into chainsaw milling.....and I love it.
> 
> What's everyone thoughts and tips for using a Stihl 076 Super for chainsaw milling?
> 
> ...


I reckon an 076 would be the beez neez.
What are your plans for the slabs and what type of timber?
How did you get on?

I milled using one of those Canadian/Alaskan mill holders quite some years ago 38 years? using an AV056 a 30 " bar I think it was? and a ripping chain through logs of Celery Top Pine down in Tasmania.
Tough timber. Don't let "pine" fool you. It's unique to this island .
From my memory it was painfully slow and the boards needed lifting from jamming constantly.
I wore a rubber face mask with filters but still suffered from the dust.
I used the slabs for bearers for the roof mezzanine and the staircase.
I was young and quite agile back then to work the saw hard. .


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## Ryk (Sep 29, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> Thanks Bob
> 
> I think there a great saw, however you do raise great points,
> 
> ...


No heartwood? Nice colour. Looks familiar.


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## FabianRW (Oct 3, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> Has anyone else had issues with the clutch unwinding while running......i had issues today while milling......any ideas to how to fix/ stop this


Almost, it started to do that, just needed cleaning out and not had the problem since. Should be done every so often before the issue occurs because it can catch it and pull it back in fast when the saw slows, which will knacker the cord etc.
Pretty easy to do, I don't think I had to release the spring or anything from memory, good design....


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## BobL (Oct 3, 2022)

Aussie076 said:


> So I have been using this beast over the last few weeks and I noticed that some of the bolt have vibrated out.


My worst "lost a nut due to vibe" experience was the first time I used my 076 in a mill.
I used a 3/4" brass end cap as the cap for the aux oiler cap and it vibrated loose and fell onto the chain at WOT which sent it to the spot right between my eyes. Luckily I had a full face polycarbonate shield on but it still gave me black eyes.

I then added a chain as shown below but even that vibrated loose and fell off a couple of times - eventually I replaced it with a a black poly cap and that has never come off.


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## FabianRW (Oct 4, 2022)

BobL said:


> My worst "lost a nut due to vibe" experience was the first time I used my 076 in a mill.
> I used a 3/4" brass end cap as the cap for the aux oiler cap and it vibrated loose and fell onto the chain at WOT which sent it to the spot right between my eyes. Luckily I had a full face polycarbonate shield on but it still gave me black eyes.
> 
> I then added a chain as shown below but even that vibrated loose and fell off a couple of times - eventually I replaced it with a a black poly cap and that has never come off.
> View attachment 1021554


Not the worst nut injury due to excessive vibration I can think of.....


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