# chippers-what do you like best?



## blackwaterguide (Dec 15, 2002)

just wondering what you guys like in make and model...drum vs.disc and so forth for mostly residential use


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## Stumper (Dec 15, 2002)

You are asking about residential use. Do you mean commercial use working on residential properties or do you mean homeowner use?


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## mikey (Dec 15, 2002)

In my opinion,the bigger the better.Ive had good luck with the Vermeer brand.


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## blackwaterguide (Dec 16, 2002)

*chippers*

I was talking commercial business, yet only few climbers and no bucket truck. The 625b, the small Vermeer much too small, I really liked the 935 with diesel but now they are trying to talk me into the 1000bc or xl. The rep said Vermeer is eventually phasing out disc type altogether and replacing with drum type only. Also, I'm somewhat concerned about fiberglass hoods--sounds like an instant and expensive maintenance problem. In past I've had good luck with big Morbarks and others and agree horsepower and feed hole size save lopping/sawing forks. I save great deal of wood for the wood lot (I know, that is another subject altogether). Thanks for your personal input--chipper purchase is biggy for this guy!


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## kf_tree (Dec 16, 2002)

my take on chippers.......

diesel is the only way to go and the bigger the better. basicly i chipped every thing. i don't care if it was a 300 year old oak, it got cut up and chipped.

after destroying a morbark model 17 i started to research the big machines. this was about 5 years ago. i refused to buy a morbark again. when i spoke to vermeer on the phone the steel specs seemed too thin to me. i ended up getting 180 hp 18in woodsman. the first machine i got from them was a hunk of junk. i was breaking welds after 6 hours. i tore the tounge of the machine. cracked the drum numerous times, bent the belly pan, cracked the hyd tank, broke bearing caps, had the trap door break out, cracked the motor mounts, bent the feed floor. they used the cheapest hardwear possible. when sweeping up after chipping there was usually a bunch of bolts on the ground. i then speced out a new woodsman with the help of my dealer to trade this 33,000.00 hunk a junk for. after giving them another 5600.00 and swaping my motor over i now had a machine with NO warrenty. it was a better machine but still had a lot of bugs in it. i still had to make alot of change's to the machine. the drum still cracked twice. the problem was they were being built in a factory set up for light gauge steel, so the machines were under speced.
the owners flat out lied to me. when i ripped the tounge off they just shipped another 1/4 in tounge. why not beef it up to 3/8 if the 1/4 in failed. so i had to wait till they shipped a 3/8 tounge. they really were pathetic. it was as if bob engler grabbed a six pack of bud in the morning and kicked open the screen door went out to the garage, then took a couple of bong hits and started welding these things up.

i now feel disc machines bon't take the pounding that drum machines do, since they shave the wood instead of pound it. the key to running a big machine is sharp blades.
the other thing all chippers have in common is you need to spend big bucks if you want it to chip big wood day in day out. just because it opens up to 18 in it's only for the occasional piece of 18in wood. like the second tuesday of every month. once you get up to around 45,000.00 will the machine hold up for the long run. the more horse power the better.

if i had to do it again i'd spec out a big brush bandit. the key thing is find a dealer you can get along with. have him spec out the machine since he knows what fails on it. no need to buy a regular production model. the dealer will get it beefed up a bit.

oh and did i forget to mention bob engler from woodsman SUCKS.


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## Stumper (Dec 16, 2002)

Blackwaterguide, Thanks for defining your needs a little better. It is hard to argue with the guys who say the bigger the better when it comes to chippers. However, whether that is actually true is dependant upon the use of the machine. If your policy is to make all wood over 6" (or 8" or 4" etc.) into firewood and you only have a limited number of hands to feed the machine then there is some point when bigger won't save any more trimming and will not gain any speed. At that point bigger just means more initial cost and higher fuel bills. Some of the guys on this forum have the experience to help etermine where that point falls for a given size of material. 
My own experience is rather limited-1.a big Wayne drum which would take stuff under about 5" about as fast as 3 men could feed it with minimal trimming. 2.a small Wood-Pro which I currently own that will handle stuff under 3" pretty speedily for 1 man IF it is cut out straight. I want to move up to a larger machine simply to eliminate cutting down brush and handling so many pieces. I don't deal with very much big wood and have a handy market for everything over 4" so I won't move up to a very large machine personally.( Though I will run a lot of the small potential firewood thru the chipper to save time when I have the machine to do so handily.)


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## TREETX (Dec 16, 2002)

I have found that anything less than 12" works you more than you work it.

.02


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## Dan Flinn (Dec 16, 2002)

I found a great deal on a Bandit 200+ with the 80 hp diesel. With sharp knives, I can chip anything that two men can drag to it. That is extremely important since I don't have an outlet for the wood. I can chip a 10 inch pine tree whole faster than I can cut it up into pieces and load it. Also, I can get rid of a truckload of chips many times easier than a truck half filled with chips and the rest pieces of trunk.

I really wanted the 250xp but it is a bit big for my one ton to pull. The 200+ taxes it, but not to the point that it compromises safety. I like the idea of a winch mounted on the feed shoot. I think that would sure save some back.

I've only had mine for less than a year and put 50 hours on it. Aside from some minor feed wheel problems and the regular maintenance, I havn't had a bit of trouble with it. It is a 1995 model with 790 hours.

I agree with the guys about the smaller chipper syndrome. I have a buddy who has a Bandit 90. It's great for limbs, but stinks for removals.

Hope this helps,
Dan


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## treeclimber165 (Dec 16, 2002)

Dan Flinn- You only run your chipper an hour a week?  Why have one? 

Stumper- Sounds like the Vermeer 935 or possibly the 1000BC would fit your needs well. Either will easily handle 6" material without wearing on the machine. What KC says is true. Just because a chipper can take a 12" limb doesn't mean you can feed it 12" wood all day long. The 935 is rated for 9" material (occassionally), and isn't as heavy as pulling a bigger machine.

Most of my experience is with 12" chippers. The 200XP and 250XP brush bandit, Vermeer 1250 and 1230. Also used several chuk-n-ducks and Brett's big 14" Morbark down in Tampa. On the 12" chippers, it seems like the BB's are easier to feed but the Vermeer holds up better. Brett's Morbark is simply awesome and blows all the others away in my opinion. But for $36K or whatever it was it darn well better!


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## FBerkel (Dec 16, 2002)

Blackwater,

Count me as a very satisfied bc1000 owner. With sharp blades, it chips softer woods to 12 inches very easily, makes excellent quality chips, people want to pay for them. Also, it hauls brush in very reliably, even with just one wheel. Only problem is with wide crotches in tough wood, sometimes you have to cut them down.


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## treeman82 (Dec 17, 2002)

Do any of you guys have any experience with the side rollers on the Vermeers? I have not heard one bad thing about them yet. All I have heard in regards to them has been good things. Brian is right though about the Morbarks... those things run like raped apes.


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## blackwaterguide (Dec 17, 2002)

*chippers*

Thanks for the input guys. The really large chippers, 100 hp and above are out of my league. I do spend? waste? time with firewooding. I think the 85 hp cummins would be ideal-a friend of mine in the know says its hell of a motor. I got a ground saw and loppers not far from the chute for the forks that always seem to get in the way. I've also been toying with the idea of a gooseneck dump and get a chipper I can haul with a one ton 7.3L Ford, beefed up pintle hitch should do it? Sure would get me in some tight spots, alleys and you name it, that a big chipper truck won't. Again, you all take care, God bless.


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## treeman82 (Dec 18, 2002)

What do you mean by "gooseneck dump?" Gooseneck, makes me think of trailers. If you are looking to get into tight areas with a truck and chipper, then you want either a small dump, no bigger than an F550 with a 9' chip box, or a cab over with a 10' bed or there abouts. Pull a chipper of whatever size behind that and you are set.


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## blackwaterguide (Dec 18, 2002)

Sorry, wrong use of words. We use a gooseneck 18' for firewood and sometimes logs. We are now building sides for a 3/4 250 single rear wheel with 625 vermeer. The 625 wouldn't be so bad if it had more power but the chip chute even clogs up enough to ruin your day, not to mention if clutch engaged too late you got to take the dang thing apart cause of even the smallest brush. Kf said it like it is for me--I got firewood market and lots of woodlot so I keep 4" up most times. I probably need twice the horsepower though and I think I like the disc system, knives sharp and all things equal. I'm gonna check out the 935 and the BB . The truck we're using now is a dually 1 ton and we're not big enough to move up to a 450 or 550...not sure we'll need to as 1 tons are cheap and can move the crew which never seem to have transport anyway!


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## Dan Flinn (Dec 19, 2002)

Hey treeclimber,

I guess you're right, the average is only about 1 hour a week. I never really thought about it that way. 

Most all of what I do is crown cleaning with the occasional removal. 2 hours of climbing, 20 minutes of chipping. I guess I could start the chipper and just let it run......

I work full time with the city fire department. Or, should I say, 10 days a month I go to the fire department to rest. I can only work caring for trees 3 days a week at the most and some of that time is looking at jobs, etc. 

Why have a chipper? I got the deal of a lifetime when the rental company were we used to rent had to sell due to hard times....

Dan


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## Jock (Dec 19, 2002)

Try a Schleisling................you'll be hooked.........throw anything at them..Jock


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## John Paul Sanborn (Dec 19, 2002)

I agree with most that is said here, 
around 12 inch infeed to handle wide crotch angles
around 85 hp deisel for good power, gass lugs down too easy
not too big so you can get into residential properties, big machiens are for the removal companies
drum is cheaper to buy and maintain then disk. Those disks are heavy and cost a lot top machine. Get the drum and put the extra weght in the engine.
Vermeer 1000 is a very good general pruning machine, easy to back in and takes any limb. Feed wheel speed control comes standard and the clutch engage is near groundie proof.
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## FBerkel (Dec 27, 2002)

*bc 1000*

Also, drum bearings should last longer than disc, due to smaller radial momentum. This chipper model is only a few years old, so the track record doesn't exist yet, but that's one area where I would assume they will perform well over time. (down side may be greater back-pressure on engine; that may be a problem).


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## blackwaterguide (Dec 28, 2002)

*chippers*

Want to thank all you guys for your input, this site is really great and I'm finding out more all the time. I respect all the opinions. A company around here has a WC 17 and I am nearly convinced that the bc1000xl is very close to its speed. At least I can't discern a great difference. The b3.3 cummins is one heck of a motor and the machine manuverability suits my needs, as JP pointed out. I'm sure everyone has their preferences to suit their particular needs. I'm still looking around for that great bargain, however! We'll make due with what we got for now. You all have a great new year-be careful, God bless.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Dec 28, 2002)

*Re: bc 1000*



> _Originally posted by FBerkel _
> *down side may be greater back-pressure on engine; that may be a problem. *



Deisel's are designed to handle that though. Cant see it being a problem if knife maint. is kept up and infeed RPM is properly managed.


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## treeman82 (Dec 28, 2002)

I had gone to Vermeer the other day, the new guy who works there said that when you go to turn off a chipper... turn the throtttle all the way down but don't disengage the clutch. Turn the key, and then disengage the clutch once the drum or disk has stopped.


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## Rager (Dec 28, 2002)

*Conventional Drum*

If I was going to buy a chipper I would go with that!
Less clogging,less maintenance,less expensive!
It isn't as save as the self feeding chippers but alot less hassle,in my opinion,but who am I?
I'dd get a used one for 3 or 4 thousand$$$$$ and beat the *&%#@ out of it! oops can we say that here?


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## John Paul Sanborn (Dec 28, 2002)

That is a new one on me Matt, I'll have to call them and ask. I've always been told to let the drum disk stop on its own after the thing has been turned off.

I've also heard that you should give them a cool down period before disenguaging the clutch, so that the can will move air through the system.


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## treeman82 (Dec 28, 2002)

John, the way I was taught was turn down the throttle all the way, then disengage the clutch once the drum or disk has slowed down a little bit. Then shut off the engine, let the blades stop on their own. The guy at Vermeer though said no damage


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## r/ctree (Dec 28, 2002)

I have seen vermeer chipper overheat and shut down if you don;t disengage the clutch you will have anti-freeze all over the place. I don't think the sudden stopping of moving parts can be good If could cause the push rods to bend or crank to break . "For ever reaction their is always an opposite and equal reaction" If you suddenly stop something the force is transfered to something else. Sounds like a rookie sales rep.By the way stay away from 1250 or 1230 chipper they suck !!


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## treeman82 (Dec 29, 2002)

The guy who told me this claims to have many years of experience as a service mechanic. Worked on chippers, backhoes, and everything up to D-8's was the biggest he went. He said this works good for them, because if they are testing the blades, and then they have to move the machine... doing it this way cuts down on the time that they cannot move it for. If that makes any sense...?


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## Matt Follett (Jan 2, 2003)

*I'll go the other way*

I bought a Bandit 65, (disc style) yep it's small, but runs very well, and for what I paid new, I could buy two for the price of one big one. 

Now on big removals it is slow, but will chip up to 4-5" without slowing down (6-7" with some work on the feed bar). (the rest is firewood if you have the space and clients, and the down time to split it, knowing you're not likely to 'make' money on it but certainlly not lose it)

I guess it's Bandits equivalent to that tiny Vermeer 625, but it WAY outperforms that unit. The Bandit roller, chute opening is 7" by 10 inches so wide crotches will flatten out and generally hit the disc and get cut up.

We normally work with one to two grounds and with any drag time it will keep up, with three you get static time.

Small machines aren't for everyone, but I love it and the maintenance at this time (200+ hrs) has been oil changes, blade sharpening and greaseing

And put it behind a single wheel pick-up with a dump-box, and you can get into real tight places

I will vote for Bandits' larger machines too, I like their weld /steel quality, and I figure they should hold up for a long time 

Just my thoughts


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## ORclimber (Jan 2, 2003)

I like the asplundh(now altec) drums. they've been around for decades and are still basically the same design. The gas straight six is practically bullet proof and about 100 hp. I've worked with a lot of them and the only problems I've seen have been bad starters, bad grounds, and 1 blow bearings(after some serious abuse). they'll eat anything up to 6". they're half the cost of disks and 1/10 of the problems in my opinion.

I worked for a company that had a vermeer 1250 with two feed rollers and a brush bandit 200 with two feed rollers, they both sucked. I don't know if the company mechanics didn't know how to fix them or what the problem was but whenever it rained(halloween to the 4th of July here), the rollers wood just spin on the limbs. Also anything viney like weeping willow would spin around the rollers and come right back at the operator. This same company had three morbarks with single feed rollers and they kicked ass, but anything that sells for $25k should.


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## r/ctree (Jan 12, 2003)

how many of you would over rev your truck motors all the time. And risk large repair bills. What you can get away with and what is recomended are two very different things. the sudden stopping of an engine is not a good thing. what is wrong with just taking the time to let the disk slow down on it's own. 3or 4 min is not that long.


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## YUKON 659 (Jan 12, 2003)

Hey Matt check your private messages, I have a few questions about you model 65 I was hoping you could answer. Does anybody else have any opinions about the Bandit 65? I'm looking to purchase a chipper and can't seem to decide between the 65 or the 90. I'll prolly be chipping a max. of 6" dia. Is the extra cost of the 90 worth the time savings over a 65 if i'm only chipping up to 6"?

Thanks, Jeff


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## rbtree (Jan 12, 2003)

I have two friends with Bandit 65's. It is a great unit, I find it more than adequate, especially for pruning or small removals. 

You will need flags as it is hard to see when backing it up.

For some rare tough access jobs, I'll hire Mike, as my full size truck and Bandit 250 are unwieldy.


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## YUKON 659 (Jan 12, 2003)

rb, just curious, what engines did the Bandit 65's have on them? I was looking at one that has a 25 h.p. Kohler...wasn't sure if this was enough power. What do you think?


Jeff


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## Keener (Jan 13, 2003)

Yukon, I have been using 25hp Kohlers for the last 3 yrs and have been happy with them.
As far as power if you stay under 3.5 inch wood and keep the knives sharp it will do the job.
We do a lot of removals on softwoods Doug fir and Cedar and we buck a lot of wood out.
A larger machine would be nice but I refuse to borrow money for one so for now we make firewood.
There is a big advantage in manouverability with my little Promark and I like the fact that the chute can be swivelled 360 degrees.
Also with 3 men you can unhook it and just about put it anywhere.(careful of the steep downhill driveways)


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jan 13, 2003)

I worked for a company with 2 bandit 65's with Wisconsin 2 banges. We were getting new springs on the trailers every 5 months it seamed. Infeed gate latches did not hold up, metal fatigue cracks in the discharge shoot. The chipped well, but I was very unhappy with the rest. Not to mention Bandit's lack of concern with our problems. I think they are more designed for instatutional use then highway.


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## Matt Follett (Jan 13, 2003)

Yukon:

Sent you a message...

after re-reading one of your questions, I will elaborate...

What size is your crew? this is probably one of the key factors in choosing between the 90 and the 65. The 65 will easily keep up to pruning work with two climbers and one ground even more. When we do big removals with two on the ground and one in the tree, we drag to the chipper and stack, 'cause it has no problem keeping up with two on the ground in that case, wait till theres a big pile and then fire it up. If we have four on site and the drag distance is short (ie we've got the chipper in the back yard) it runs constanly to keep up with the crew, and they might get a chance to catch their breath waiting for someone to feed an unweildy(sp) branch.

If your doing clear drop type jobs, or land clearing this is not the unit,... unless you are a crew of two, you will be waiting for the next person to finish feeding.

As of yet... I have had no mechanical problems, as I said in your p message, it has the 4 banger wisconson, which doesn't really like to idle on sart-up but hey, who can get going with-out a little coffee in the morning  You must keep the blades sharp to achive good feeding characteristics, I find I can 20 hours out of a side if we are cautious on the clean up and throw the junky rakings right in the back of the truck.  then I can touch them up once or twice with the angle grinder before sending them out... I carry an extra set all the time.

As for Johns comment about the springs... my dealer told me they had delt with that problem ( I bought mine new in 2001) by changing the spring weight, so you might want to check what springs are on the one you are looking at (manufactur date but I don't know when the change over was), We aren't easy on ours and no problem yet. No weld cracks on the chute yet, but it is a little difficult to turn, even well greased.

There that's it, and no I don't work for Bandit, nor receive compenstation I just like my little chipper.

Oh yeah, Johns right about the latches, they tend to get bent, but as long as you treat then with care, they're okay, and a little felling bar hammer work generally puts them back in line


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## YUKON 659 (Jan 13, 2003)

Matt, thanks for the information. Right now I'm a crew of "1"...I'm looking to expand my "side" job into a "small" business. My son is interestesd in climbing and is looking into the Arbormaster climbing classes....we'll see what happens. I'll be looking at hiring a freelance climber until he gets enough experience. Anyhow this is going to be my first chipper and I appreciate your help. Sounds like the 65 might work...like I said I wouldn't be chipping much over 6" anyhow...I'd use anything larger for firewood (unless it was softwood)

Jeff


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## Toddppm (Jan 13, 2003)

Yukon, heres a drum chipper near you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10368&item=2400021382


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## YUKON 659 (Feb 16, 2003)

Just wanted to let you guys know that I picked up a used Bandit 65 with a 35 h.p. Wisconsin engine and auto feed. It's a 2000 with about 400 hrs. on it....runs excellent but its got a few dings and scratches....I guess its just normal wear. I paid $7000....do you think that was a fair price? I priced a new one and it was about $13,000...$7000 was more in my price range  

Jeff


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## Menchhofer (Feb 16, 2003)

I started out with a Bandit 65. Worked out well for many years even though it only chipped smaller material. I also added a larger muffler system to cut down on the nosie from the smaller mufflers. If it is still a Wisconsin engine, be sure to maintain regular oil changes.

I believe I bought one about 2 years old and paid 5500.00 for it. When I sold it 4 years later.. got $4500.00. This was over 10 years ago, so you probably did alright.

Some advice...keep the knives extremely sharp, the knife-anvil clearance correct and it will do fine. Was told easy way to adjust the knife-anvil clearance is to sight down through the hood and adjust the anvil to where you can just barely see light between them and the knives.

Does your machine have 1 or two knives? Mine came with one but I added another for better chipping ablilty.


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## NeTree (Feb 16, 2003)

2 Vermeer 1250's 6cyl Ford Gas, Autofeed
1 Brush Bandit 250+XP, Diesel, autofeed
1 Altec Whisper-Chipper, 6 cyl ford gas


I like the Vermeer's best.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Feb 16, 2003)

I'll agree with Mench on the knife/anvil maintenance. With those smaller engines it is even more important.

Also keep an ear on the rpm durring operations, they are easy to bog and stall real quick.

Cut curfs in all crotches or the branches wont feed in, this is more true the wider the angle.

One of my pet peaves with the smaller units is that you need to spend so much more time getting the debris ready to chip.

I know, I'm not footing the bill


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## Climbing mike (Feb 17, 2003)

I have had a vermeer 1250 turbo perkins for about 6 years. The side rollers work petty good but they will sling brush left or right. The main problem with the rollers is that they are only conected on the top. If you feed low wide stuff (like saw mill slabs) the motor shafts can break. I have not broken a shaft but the main no greaseable bearing on the shaft was total gone at 1000 hrs. I use mine a grat deal on big wood it has held up pretty well. If the chipper will chip it we put it in. I think the feed rollers need to pull stronger but mine is a 1991 model they may have work on that. I also had a 200+ bandit and loved the hydraulic top roller. Overall id give the 1250 a 8 score out of 10.


Mike


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## arborguy (Feb 17, 2003)

We run bandit 200+. But seem have a terrible time with rust. Within 2-3 years of being new the tin worm starts to take over. We have a 1995 that is "rust" colored. We also recently had one sand blasted and painted looks great, but for how long?


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## YUKON 659 (Feb 17, 2003)

Arborguy, the Bandit 65 that I just got seemed a little rusty for it's age....oh well, as long as it chips good I guess it doesn't matter.
JPS...I'll start with a small one and maybe work my way up...anything is better than hauling brush!!!!! 

Jeff


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## Matt Follett (Feb 17, 2003)

Yukon

Congratulations! hope it works well for you, and as I said earlier, keeping up the routine maint. and it will surely help keep things running smooth. Watch for things like moisture in the bearings if you let it sit for a while... make sure you purge the greese fittings if it's idle for more then a week or two. Keep up on those oil changes, and check the levels frequently for the first while until you get a feel for how things run then you will be able to notice oddities... (problems lurking) Check your hydraulic oil type... I know mine is spec'd to use straight 10W30, and not hydraulic fluid..., oh and here is a personal experiance note, make sure whoever takes it to the fuel station knows to watch the filling process if they don't do it themselves,... as fuel in the hydraulic tank is a nightmare to change on site!!!!!!!


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## YUKON 659 (Feb 18, 2003)

Matt, thanks for the heads up!!! Fortunately the chipper came with a manual and I'll be sure to check it out. 

Jeff


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## John Paul Sanborn (Feb 18, 2003)

When i ran a crew, I got decals for all the chippers and put them by the respctive tanks "GAS" "OIL", "HYDRAULIC". 

One more thing I noticed with the 65's is that they ar not built for hyway use, at least the 2 I ran. We went through a lot of springs. IF you do loose one (Inspect regularly, though sometines the cracks form real fast.) get heavier ones installed right away.

Trailing behind a International they seemed to spend more time in the air then on the road.


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## YUKON 659 (Feb 18, 2003)

John, the 65 seemed to trailer pretty good for me. I live in N.Y. and I purchased the chipper in Delaware....about a 425 mile return trip. Seemed to hold the road good behind a 3/4 ton pick up. I'll keep an eye on the springs...thanks.

Jeff


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## Tim Kasulinous (Feb 23, 2003)

Bandit 150 great machine. 12 in diameter and eats almost anything. ( although if youyr into clearing land I would definately suggest going with at least a 17 inch model)


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