# Advise on rigging set ups



## MackenzieTree (Feb 18, 2012)

Checking out some rigging set ups to lower peices down and have better/cleaner end results.


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## Grace Tree (Feb 18, 2012)

I'm not sure what your question is but a good place to start would be the book:
the Art and Science of Practical Rigging. Since most people on here are familiar with the book you can ask more specific questions and probably get some decent answers.
Regards,
Phil


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## MackenzieTree (Feb 18, 2012)

More or less asking about the hardware using portawrap or steins deveice, blocks, types of slings.


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## lone wolf (Feb 18, 2012)

MackenzieTree said:


> More or less asking about the hardware using portawrap or steins deveice, blocks, types of slings.



You need a Block and sling for the tree then a portawrap and sling for an anchor.


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 18, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> You need a Block and sling for the tree then a portawrap and sling for an anchor.



That is true, but I prefer the 3/4" Whoopie from Sherrill for the PW attachment to tree, as it is easier to get it tight on the tree and maintain proper heigth. For lighter rigging you can use a pulley in tree instead of the block, but you will eventually need a good block. I agree on the rigging book.
Rick


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## MackenzieTree (Feb 18, 2012)

Great advise, portawrap is popular anyone familiar about the stien device thought it was cool how it strapped in top and bottom seemed like it might be easier to work. So for lighter stuff pulleys ok and stuff like the main trunk gonna wanna block?


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 18, 2012)

I would say that any negative rigging requires a block with a strong sling. Pulleys are normally lighter and easier to install on a limb, so I start with them. If I feel the need for larger than 1/2 rig line, I tend to switch to a block as well.

I've looked at the Stein as well. Not easy to get locally and I have yet to see one in person. I may try to make one just to see how well it works. I do wonder about the pulling clamp causing possible rope damage.
Rick


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## CUCV (Feb 18, 2012)

*Stein*

I have a Stein and it is absolutely wonderful. The rope runs thru it soo much smoother than a Porta-wrap. That being said it does take twices as long to initially setup and does require a bit of tending occasionally to keep the top and bottom rope separated, not a big deal but just time. If we are only going to rig a hand full of pieces I usually just use the Porta-wrap. The Porta-wrap does a good job on light rigging that is just a touch more than I want to take by hand and I put a "half-wrap" on it. The Stein really needs a full wrap. The Stein really shines with one or multiple wraps.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> That is true, but I prefer the 3/4" Whoopie from Sherrill for the PW attachment to tree, as it is easier to get it tight on the tree and maintain proper heigth. For lighter rigging you can use a pulley in tree instead of the block, but you will eventually need a good block. I agree on the rigging book.
> Rick



I thought a pulley and a block were the same thing.


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## Zale (Feb 19, 2012)

A pulley is smaller than a block and used for light rigging.


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## MackenzieTree (Feb 19, 2012)

I would ASSUME that theirs some rope to pulley or block diameter rule so theirs no rope binding


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> I thought a pulley and a block were the same thing.



Wrong again there Clueless Carb. A pulley must not be directly anchored by rope or fiber, it requires a connecting device such as a beaner or link. A block is designed to be anchored directly by rope or fiber. Has nothing to do with size.

Rick


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

MackenzieTree said:


> I would ASSUME that theirs some rope to pulley or block diameter rule so theirs no rope binding



Yes, pulleys and blocks are rated for max load and rope diameter. Safe working load is often at 10 - 20% of tensile strength. Check pulleys and blocks in the Sherrill catalog, they often give both load ratings.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> Wrong again there Clueless Carb. A pulley must not be directly anchored by rope or fiber, it requires a connecting device such as a beaner or link. A block is designed to be anchored directly by rope or fiber. Has nothing to do with size.
> 
> Rick



There's something else that has me at odds with what you're saying; I've always heard that blocks should only be anchored with a sling/s, never with rope.

Also; At what point does a pulley become a block?


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> There's something else that has me at odds with what you're saying; I've always heard that blocks should only be anchored with a sling/s, never with rope.
> 
> Also; At what point does a pulley become a block?



What are you trying to do exactly ?


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## treeclimber101 (Feb 19, 2012)

MackenzieTree said:


> I would ASSUME that theirs some rope to pulley or block diameter rule so theirs no rope binding



I use a 1' sling and pulley and they are no ropes that are gonna bind through that ...Maybe a bit of a overkill sometimes but I don't have time or space to have 4 or 5 different setups ...


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## Zale (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> There's something else that has me at odds with what you're saying; I've always heard that blocks should only be anchored with a sling/s, never with rope.
> 
> Also; At what point does a pulley become a block?



If a pulley gets lots of sleep, eats all its vegetables and does its homework, it then becomes a block.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

Zale said:


> If a pulley gets lots of sleep, eats all its vegetables and does its homework, it then becomes a block.



Lol,

So basically what you're saying is; A block is just a healthier, stronger, and smarter pulley.


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> Lol,
> 
> So basically what you're saying is; A block is just a healthier, stronger, and smarter pulley.



Negative it is of a different design!


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> Negative it is of a different design!



How can you tell?


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## no tree to big (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> There's something else that has me at odds with what you're saying; I've always heard that blocks should only be anchored with a sling/s, never with rope.
> 
> Also; At what point does a pulley become a block?




yes a block is normally ancored with a sling but the sling is made out of rope:msp_confused:

here compare the two see the difference
Blocks : Pulleys / Blocks : Rigging : Professional Gear : SherrillTree Tree Care Equipment


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

no tree to big said:


> yes a block is normally ancored with a sling but the sling is made out of rope:msp_confused:
> 
> here compare the two see the difference
> Blocks : Pulleys / Blocks : Rigging : Professional Gear : SherrillTree Tree Care Equipment



The block is made for droping heavy loads on a rope like when chunking down a tree or topping it.A pulley is made for smoother operation where the rope is not slammed just pulled slowly!


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## rtsims (Feb 19, 2012)

*Carb*

I saw one of your posts that stated you have been in the biz for 10 yrs. In another thread you argued that screw type biner's were safer to use in your climbing set up than triple locking biner's, now you state that you think blocks and pullys are the same. This is the 101 forum, people are here to learn and get GOOD advice. Stop posting this crap that turns the whole thread in a direction that does nothing for the op. 

To the OP: The first block i ever purchased was a CMI. Good strength, good price, and easy to use. I buy my rigging equip from Wesspur.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

no tree to big said:


> yes a block is normally ancored with a sling but the sling is made out of rope:msp_confused:
> 
> here compare the two see the difference
> Blocks : Pulleys / Blocks : Rigging : Professional Gear : SherrillTree Tree Care Equipment



All those are listed as pulleys, except for the "Double Pulley Block" pulley.

Other than rigging points(such as a trolley pulley), the only differences I can see is their strength.

So I'm happy with the healthier, stronger, smarter system of determining when a pulley becomes a block.

That's what's important; Right? Making sure you only drag enough gear into the tree to carry the load beyond and chance of failure and nothing more.


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## no tree to big (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> All those are listed as pulleys, except for the "Double Pulley Block" pulley.
> 
> Other than rigging points(such as a trolley pulley), the only differences I can see is their strength.
> 
> ...



go to PAGE 2!!!!!!!!!!!!...!!!!!!!


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

no tree to big said:


> go to PAGE 2!!!!!!!!!!!!...!!!!!!!



There is no page 2.

See, only 1 page.

View attachment 224863


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## rtsims (Feb 19, 2012)

:bang: you have to be kidding me.


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

[video=youtube;3wUIT2FdFhQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wUIT2FdFhQ[/video]


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

rtsims said:


> I saw one of your posts that stated you have been in the biz for 10 yrs. In another thread you argued that screw type biner's were safer to use in your climbing set up than triple locking biner's, now you state that you think blocks and pullys are the same.



I never stated that I think blocks and pulleys are the same, I stated that I heard that blocks and pulleys are the same. Now I'm trying to work out the difference.

Flush out your head gear!


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> [video=youtube;3wUIT2FdFhQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wUIT2FdFhQ[/video]



Thanks for posting the vid, but youtube ain't happening on dialup.

But hey, isn't that a sling he's using?


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> Thanks for posting the vid, but youtube ain't happening on dialup.
> 
> But hey, isn't that a sling he's using?



Yup it is a sling


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## rtsims (Feb 19, 2012)

WesSpur Tree Rigging Kits

You can save money buying a kit. Of coarse thats if you dont have rigging line etc...


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

rtsims said:


> WesSpur Tree Rigging Kits
> 
> You can save money buying a kit. Of coarse thats if you dont have rigging line etc...



That link doesn't want to load for some reason. We're in the middle of a non-existent snow storm here that may be affecting my connection. Maybe that's why I only got 1 page from Sherrill.

Anyway,

Yeah, there's nothing like saving a buck or two, especially when your life is hanging in the balance.


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## no tree to big (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> There is no page 2.
> 
> See, only 1 page.
> 
> View attachment 224863



when I click the link i get 3 pages... try just going to sherrill's site, rigging, then blocks and pulleys (in the drop down menu)


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## no tree to big (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> [video=youtube;3wUIT2FdFhQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wUIT2FdFhQ[/video]



how many people use a biner to attach the block to sling? cause what we use ours for would break that no doubt. We have about 8-10' of 1" or 1 1/4" with a spliced eye on one end that we use


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

[video]http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Eye-Slings-For-Blocks-/STD_iSLG_TENEX_10[/video]
Click on product video at the bottom


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## Tree Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

no tree to big said:


> how many people use a biner to attach the block to sling? cause what we use ours for would break that no doubt. We have about 8-10' of 1" or 1 1/4" with a spliced eye on one end that we use



I would and do use a sling with biner to hold 4" pulley for some rigging, but it holds up to that... I dont think I would use a set up like that on a block. The metal on metal would bother me, I would not want to mar or damage the attachment sleeve. For me arborist blocks get tied on with rope or sling only no metal.


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## Vendetti (Feb 19, 2012)

no tree to big said:


> how many people use a biner to attach the block to sling? cause what we use ours for would break that no doubt. We have about 8-10' of 1" or 1 1/4" with a spliced eye on one end that we use



I don't believe those are biners but hoist rings. The solid rings and sling are used in crane work.


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## superjunior (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> [video=youtube;3wUIT2FdFhQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wUIT2FdFhQ[/video]



I wonder why he's using those aluminum beaners instead of just choking the sling through the eyes? love the dew though, reminds me of someone..


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## Vendetti (Feb 19, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> I would and do use a sling with biner to hold 4" pulley for some rigging, but it holds up to that... I dont think I would use a set up like that on a block. The metal on metal would bother me, I would not want to mar or damage the attachment sleeve. For me arborist blocks get tied on with rope or sling only no metal.



I agree. I'm sure it works fine but I would be thinking about damaging the sheave on my block.


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## MackenzieTree (Feb 19, 2012)

treeclimber101 said:


> I use a 1' sling and pulley and they are no ropes that are gonna bind through that ...Maybe a bit of a overkill sometimes but I don't have time or space to have 4 or 5 different setups ...


Kinda what I was leaning towards just a set up for anything might be over kill but its kind of a one shot deal


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

superjunior said:


> I wonder why he's using those aluminum beaners instead of just choking the sling through the eyes? love the dew though, reminds me of someone..


I do not think they are carabiners.I posted this just to show Carbless a Block is all!Stihlomatic is right about the metal on met too!


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## Tree Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

Del_ said:


> I'll stick with a cow hitch in a big, fat, spliced eye choker, thank you very much.



Some times its just so fast to tie off the timber hitch or you dont have enough length for cow hitch... But I agree I feel much safer with a cow hitch.


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> Some times its just so fast to tie off the timber hitch or you dont have enough length for cow hitch... But I agree I feel much safer with a cow hitch.


You ever see a timber hitch roll out when pulled at a wrong angle?


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## superjunior (Feb 19, 2012)

Del_ said:


> I'll stick with a cow hitch in a big, fat, spliced eye choker, thank you very much.



that's what I use


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## Tree Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> You ever see a timber hitch roll out when pulled at a wrong angle?



I have not seen it but I do realize how and why it happens, the shame of it on my part is it really doesnt take that much longer to tie the cow hitch... more often then not though its because I am short on the tail end, I have to increase my inventory of slings for sure.


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> I have not seen it but I do realize how and why it happens, the shame of it on my part is it really doesnt take that much longer to tie the cow hitch... more often then not though its because I am short on the tail end, I have to increase my inventory of slings for sure.



Whats the longest one eyed sling you have?


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> I do not think they are carabiners.I posted this just to show Carbless a Block is all!Stihlomatic is right about the metal on met too!



I haven't watched the entire vid, but what I see in the first frame is a sling with permanently attached steel links, they're basically steel rod that is bent into a ring and welded shut at the ends, like the links in a chain. 

We used those when I used to pipeline, except ours were 8 to 10 inches wide with rings that were about 10". I've seen two 42 foot joints of 16" x 300 wall pipe carried with one of those. 

I've also seen some larger steel girders and I beams craned into position with similar slings. They're definitely strong.

You wrap the sling around what you want to carry, then pass one end through the other link and cinch it tight, sort of like a clove hitch.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

no tree to big said:


> when I click the link i get 3 pages... try just going to sherrill's site, rigging, then blocks and pulleys (in the drop down menu)



I finally got the page to load.

Now I see the difference. So pulleys, even though some of them are quite strong, only have a hook in point for a biner, while blocks have a sheave to tie into.

I can see how having something wider to absorb a shock load would make a difference.


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## Tree Pig (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> Whats the longest one eyed sling you have?



hmmm not really sure maybe 15' - 20' if I run in to the length problem its usually on the porta end not the block end but I wont lie I have used a timber when I was to lazy to run up a longer sling.


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## Blakesmaster (Feb 19, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> hmmm not really sure maybe 15' - 20' if I run in to the length problem its usually on the porta end not the block end but I wont lie I have used a timber when I was to lazy to run up a longer sling.



I've never had a problem with a timber rolling out, I could see it happening if you don't have enough wraps or if the trunk is uneven enough the wraps don't press against it. Both my PW's have VERY long slings and are cow hitched 99.9% of the time. My blocks, usually cow hitched just to eat up their extra length for the most part. But I have no concerns using a timber hitch, just make sure it's dressed and set correctly. I bought a whoopie sling a few years back, but those are pretty much a joke, way faster to tie a single eye sling than set a whoopie, IMO.


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> hmmm not really sure maybe 15' - 20' if I run in to the length problem its usually on the porta end not the block end but I wont lie I have used a timber when I was to lazy to run up a longer sling.



15 works on about 3 foot diameter or a little less 20 should work good for you with a Cow Hitch.


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> You wrap the sling around what you want to carry, then pass one end through the other link and cinch it tight, sort of like a clove hitch.



How could you possibly compare that to a clove hitch ? 10 years experience ? For some folks, 10 years experience means 3650 days of continous progress in learning, for others it is repeating the first year 10 times over, in your case it sounds like repeating the first day 3650 times in a row. I'll bet we've taught you more in the last 2 weeks than you knew before that.
Rick


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> How could you possibly compare that to a clove hitch ? 10 years experience ? For some folks, 10 years experience means 3650 days of continous progress in learning, for others it is repeating the first year 10 times over, in your case it sounds like repeating the first day 3650 times in a row. I'll bet we've taught you more in the last 2 weeks than you knew before that.
> Rick



He said "sort of" that is the best he can describe it .He needs to learn and he is trying!I give him credit for trying nothing pisses me off more than a noob that wont listen.


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

Blakesmaster said:


> I've never had a problem with a timber rolling out, I could see it happening if you don't have enough wraps or if the trunk is uneven enough the wraps don't press against it. Both my PW's have VERY long slings and are cow hitched 99.9% of the time. My blocks, usually cow hitched just to eat up their extra length for the most part. But I have no concerns using a timber hitch, just make sure it's dressed and set correctly. I bought a whoopie sling a few years back, but those are pretty much a joke, way faster to tie a single eye sling than set a whoopie, IMO.



Blakes,
I normally use the TH for securing my block. Of course, I don't push the limits on wood size because I tend to have newbie help, so no need to haul the extra long sling aloft. That is also why I use the whoopie sling on the PW. You might be correct about tying a TH being faster for you, but the whoopie is easier for the groundie if I need to move the PW. 


As for the sling&rings in the video, I would never use that setup either. I was taught 'fiber only' on blocks.
That can be rope, sling, strap, or even braided armpit hair if you want, but never metal.

Rick


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## tree md (Feb 19, 2012)

Del_ said:


> I'll stick with a cow hitch in a big, fat, spliced eye choker, thank you very much.



What Del said.

I have gone to a 30' spliced eye, double braid sling so I can use the cow hitch on pretty much anything. I prefer it over a timber hitch. I also have a 10' tennex sling that I use on smaller stuff as well. A plain Jane heavy duty CMI arborist block and a porty will allow you to do just about anything you want. You can throw a pulley or two into the equation to get some significant lift and pull with that setup.


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> He said "sort of" that is the best he can describe it .He needs to learn and he is trying!I give him credit for trying nothing pisses me off more than a noob that wont listen.



OK, and the knot I use to tie my boots is sort of like a running bowline, the string is wrapped around itself and there is a loop. :hmm3grin2orange:

I agree about the noob that won't listen being a problem, I just think a 'clueless' noob that trys to instruct others is even worse. In this case, I do agree with you, he does seem to at least see that he has a whole lot to learn, and that is progress.
Rick


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> OK, and the knot I use to tie my boots is sort of like a running bowline, the string is wrapped around itself and there is a loop. :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> I agree about the noob that won't listen being a problem, I just think a 'clueless' noob that trys to instruct others is even worse. In this case, I do agree with you, he does seem to at least see that he has a whole lot to learn, and that is progress.
> Rick



He was giving advice? I thought he was just asking about what the diff is between a block and a pulley?


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> How could you possibly compare that to a clove hitch ? 10 years experience ? For some folks, 10 years experience means 3650 days of continous progress in learning, for others it is repeating the first year 10 times over, in your case it sounds like repeating the first day 3650 times in a row. I'll bet we've taught you more in the last 2 weeks than you knew before that.
> Rick



well, wel, ww www WWWAAAA WAAAAAA!!!

You don't even know what a clove hitch is, so just drink your Red Bull and shut up.


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> well, wel, ww www WWWAAAA WAAAAAA!!!
> 
> You don't even know what a clove hitch is, so just drink your Red Bull and shut up.



I never use them!


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## tree md (Feb 19, 2012)

I have had a timber hitch roll out one time. That's why I prefer the cow hitch now. And I can tie a cow hitch faster than a timber. I have no problem using a timber hitch when negative blocking and the block is being loaded in a vertical fashion. If I have to run a snatch block on the ground where the block is going to be pulled out an outward angle rather than downward I always use a cow hitch. That is what happened when my timber hitch rolled out. Thank god it did not happen on anything critical.


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

tree md said:


> I have had a timber hitch roll out one time. That's why I prefer the cow hitch now. And I can tie a cow hitch faster than a timber. I have no problem using a timber hitch when negative blocking and the block is being loaded in a vertical fashion. If I have to run a snatch block on the ground where the block is going to be pulled out an outward angle rather than downward I always use a cow hitch. That is what happened when my timber hitch rolled out. Thank god it did not happen on anything critical.



Do you terminate it with a half hitch?


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

While we are on this anyone ever see a single action Carabiner roll open?


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> I never use them!



lol, me either.

I actually meant a cow hitch, you know when you make a loop and wrap it around what you're attaching to, then you run both ends through the loop.

I just wanted to see if anyone would blow a gasket on that. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> lol, me either.
> 
> I actually meant a cow hitch, you know when you make a loop and wrap it around what you're attaching to, then you run both ends through the loop.
> 
> I just wanted to see if anyone would blow a gasket on that. :hmm3grin2orange:



I guess you did not click on the video link I gave you at Sherrills!


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> While we are on this anyone ever see a single action Carabiner roll open?



Yes, it happened on a zip line about 1/2 way down. It went bounce, bounce, drop. No idea how it got the gate open. ISC steel biner, checked ok afterwards. Go figure!
Rick


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> Yes, it happened on a zip line about 1/2 way down. It went bounce, bounce, drop. No idea how it got the gate open. ISC steel biner, checked ok afterwards. Go figure!
> Rick



I like the Triple locks I had the single open a couple times.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> I guess you did not click on the video link I gave you at Sherrills!



No I'm on dialup, that vid might as well be on the dark side of the moon.


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> No I'm on dialup, that vid might as well be on the dark side of the moon.



Get with the times boy


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## tree md (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> Do you terminate it with a half hitch?



You better believe I do now. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> I like the Triple locks I had the single open a couple times.



I still have a few single action steel biners, but I only use them for pulley anchors. Anything likely to get bounced around gets a triple action. I got lucky on that zip line deal, no damage, just had to carry it the rest of the way to the chipper. I did learn a lesson from it and changed procedures.
Rick


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> I still have a few single action steel biners, but I only use them for pulley anchors. Anything likely to get bounced around gets a triple action. I got lucky on that zip line deal, no damage, just had to carry it the rest of the way to the chipper. I did learn a lesson from it and changed procedures.
> Rick



Same here on the single action for pulleys.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> Get with the times boy



It's the other way around, the times need to get with me.

I want highspeed, I need highspeed, there's even a highspeed tower about 5 miles above me, problem is I'm so far under the mountain that I can't get the signal.

They started running fiber optic last summer, but they only made it to the top of the mountain before the weather turned bad, because of all the rock they have to go through. 

Cell service is the same here. I'm looking into satellite, but it's over priced and erratic from what I hear.


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## superjunior (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> While we are on this anyone ever see a single action Carabiner roll open?


I had a screw gate that I use to attach my saw come open on me when trimming a locust. Went to reach for my saw and it was stuck in a limb about 20 ft away, luckily it didn't make it to the ground


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

superjunior said:


> I had a screw gate that I use to attach my saw come open on me when trimming a locust. Went to reach for my saw and it was stuck in a limb about 20 ft away, luckily it didn't make it to the ground



Yup did that about 3 times now I use Petzl Ball Locks on the saw lanyard and been using them for 10 or more years have not failed yet.


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> Same here on the single action for pulleys.



Yep, the triples can be a pain when reaching as far as possible to set a pulley on a branch. I normally just use one of the green endless loop slings for pulleys so I'm often putting them at the reach limit.
Rick


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> Yup did that about 3 times now I use Petzl Ball Locks on the saw lanyard and been using them for 10 or more years have not failed yet.



I'm a lefty and those Ball locks don't feel right to me. Wished they made a LH version so I could try one.

I don't use a biner on the saw lanyard. The crap on my saddle trys to tangle itself too much already.
Rick


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> I'm a lefty and those Ball locks don't feel right to me. Wished they made a LH version so I could try one.
> 
> I don't use a biner on the saw lanyard. The crap on my saddle trys to tangle itself too much already.
> Rick



What do you use?


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> What do you use?



Biners or saw lanyard ?


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## tree md (Feb 19, 2012)

I used to girth hitch a dog leash to my old school tree saddles and clip it to the saw snap on the belt by the saw ring when I wanted to hang it close. Loved that setup and used it for years. The saddle I have now is a newer school Petzl and I'm using a bungee lanyard with rings. No way to girth hitch it to this saddle and I have to hang it on a paddle biner. Not nearly as simple as my old school setup and I don't like it nearly as well but it works.


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

tree md said:


> What Del said.
> 
> I have gone to a 30' spliced eye, double braid sling so I can use the cow hitch on pretty much anything. I prefer it over a timber hitch. I also have a 10' tennex sling that I use on smaller stuff as well. A plain Jane heavy duty CMI arborist block and a porty will allow you to do just about anything you want. You can throw a pulley or two into the equation to get some significant lift and pull with that setup.



tree md,

I respect what you know and want to pick your brain on this post. I would think 30 foot of sling was overkill, but you are hauling it up in trees, so there must be a reason. Tell me more about the spliced eye, size and kind of material. A cow hitch still has a single line between the knot and the block, so isn't that the 'weak' point no matter how many wraps on the tree ? You said you use the 10' tennex on the smaller stuff, about what size wood moves you to the bigger sling ? Maybe I misunderstood something and you only use the 30 footer for blocking on 4' diameter boles. Just trying to learn here.


lone wolf, 
Was you asking about my climbing biners or what kind of saw lanyard I used ?

For climbing biners I use Petzel tri acts and also the Gecko. 
For the lanyard, It is the strap with loop on one end and dog snap on the other, with a ring attached closer to the loop end. Sherrill sells it.
Rick


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## tree md (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> tree md,
> 
> I respect what you know and want to pick your brain on this post. I would think 30 foot of sling was overkill, but you are hauling it up in trees, so there must be a reason. Tell me more about the spliced eye, size and kind of material. A cow hitch still has a single line between the knot and the block, so isn't that the 'weak' point no matter how many wraps on the tree ? You said you use the 10' tennex on the smaller stuff, about what size wood moves you to the bigger sling ? Maybe I misunderstood something and you only use the 30 footer for blocking on 4' diameter boles. Just trying to learn here.



When I bought that sling it was shortly after I had that timber hitch roll out. I actually bought it for a particularly large tree I was doing. I had 2 really big ones to do back then come to think of it. I bought it for a couple of reasons. Number one, my tennex sling was not big enough to go around the base of the tree nor was it big enough to go around up top where I had to negative block some really big chunks. I had two trees within a couple of weeks of each other that were 6' DBH and one of them was 4' in diameter 65 feet up. I had to cut humbolt notches, wedge it and get my guys to help tip the chunks to get them to come off. I initially was going to try to drop 4 foot long chunks but thought better of it and decided to drop chunks between 2 and 3 feet long. Lot's of rigging and tying to make sure they did not slip out of my knots when they came over. It was a ##### I'll tell ya.

Anyway, I bought the large sling for large trees. Ever try to block 4-6' chunks? You need a 20 foot lanyard just to get around 4' wood. Cow hitching was an impossibility on wood that big with that sling. I could barely get enough wraps for a timber hitch, which is what I ended up using. Del had advised me at that time that I could use a whole 3/4 inch bull line to get around the tree with a cow hitch and secure my block but I needed my bull line for lowering. The long sling was a more economical option at that time. I have since bought two more bull lines, one being a 200' 5/8. I use that long sling for securing the porty on large trees now and rarely use it in the tree unless I have something really big. Most times I use the tennex sling with a timber hitch like most folks here probably do. The slings are just your basic eye spliced slings that you get from Sherrill or Wesspur.


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

Thank you. That makes sense. I never get to block 3' or bigger stuff as a climber. I have a couple of outside climbers I use on trees that big, because I don't have a groundie except myself that I trust on large wood. I could climb and let them groundie for me, but they are so much faster than me in the tree, it would be like hitching a race horse to a plow. It also give me a chance to do more training with the groundie.
Rick


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## tree md (Feb 19, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> Thank you. That makes sense. I never get to block 3' or bigger stuff as a climber. I have a couple of outside climbers I use on trees that big, because I don't have a groundie except myself that I trust on large wood. I could climb and let them groundie for me, but they are so much faster than me in the tree, it would be like hitching a race horse to a plow. It also give me a chance to do more training with the groundie.
> Rick



To tell the truth, I'll not block another one down that big. I'll call in a crane. Even if I have to get a 100 ton and pick it from the street. I was doing both of those trees in really tight drop zones. I was called in on the bigger one by another service who contracted me to climb it. Thankfully I did not have to deal with getting 6' rounds over a small wood deck and through a 36" gate... I just had to put it on the ground. I think that service learned a lesson on that one. They bid it too cheap without a crane and I believe they got their lunch ate on that one. To tell the truth, I think I was the only one who made out on that deal. No way I would bid one that large to do without a crane if it was my job. The crane just makes so much more sense when you are dealing with wood that big and the time and effort it takes to rig it and deal with it on the ground. Plus, working with wood that big is really hard on your gear.


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## MackenzieTree (Feb 19, 2012)

*Advise*

Gonna set my self up with lg portawrap couple lengths of eye slings 3/4, 3 ton cmi block and 150' or 200' of 3/4 stable braid Thanks


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## lone wolf (Feb 19, 2012)

MackenzieTree said:


> Gonna set my self up with lg portawrap couple lengths of eye slings 3/4, 3 ton cmi block and 150' or 200' of 3/4 stable braid Thanks



Sounds good do you need the 200 footer?


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 19, 2012)

I agree. I do most of my rigging with 4" pulley on Tuflex slings and 1/2" Stable Braid. Larger stuff gets the block and 5/8" SB. The 5/8" - 200' bag is heavy enough to drag to the tree. Pat had a 3/4" - 200' SB that we used a few times, but I don't want to haul it to the tree site.


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## tree md (Feb 19, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> Sounds good do you need the 200 footer?



A 200 footer is nice to have but I got by for years with 150' ropes. I did have a 200' 3/4 at one time when I worked in Del's area where I was dealing with a lot of Pines that were over 100'. I bought my new 200 footer in Alabama over the Summer doing storm work because, again, I was in an area where I was dealing with a lot of Pines over 100' tall. At first I was using my old 3/4 line that had probably been trimmed down to 120' or something like that. My groundy was having to tie a tag line on it with a bend so he could be within reach while lowering stuff. It only took one day of that BS for me to go buy a 200' 5/8. The only time I need that much line here in this state is if I need to get a long pull from the street or something like that, or if I need to run it through a block for a redirect to get a pull. It's nice to have but it's a luxury I could live without here if I had to.

I like having my 3/4 bull line because sometimes I do some pretty heavy rigging and sometimes lower whole trees. But again, I primarily use the 5/8 bull line here because it is lighter and easier to deal with in the tree.


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## MackenzieTree (Feb 19, 2012)

yea makes sense prob 150' of 9/16 or 5/8 would be practical and i wouldnt hate myself everytime i brought out the 200' of 3/4!


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## Blakesmaster (Feb 20, 2012)

MackenzieTree said:


> yea makes sense prob 150' of 9/16 or 5/8 would be practical and i wouldnt hate myself everytime i brought out the 200' of 3/4!



I switched my main ropes from 5/8ths db to 9/16ths db this year after using them in CT with mds. Was really impressed with the amount of weight he was willing to huck onto those 9/16ths lines and how well they took it. I bought a 600' reel and cut it into 3 200 footers, also bought a 150' hank of 3/4 db for the big stuff.


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## sgreanbeans (Feb 20, 2012)

I use the whoopie sling for the PW, as said before, its easy for the guys to move. I use the loopie slings in the tree for pulleys and the mini PW. When I get to the bigger stuff, I like the Tuflex slings on my blocks, they have many different lengths and I have them all. On big stuff I use 3/4 DB, 200ft and CMI Stainless blocks. 

Carb- seriously, you really need to do some reading. Some of the stuff that you say is scaring me, to think that you are out there, doing this, with little or misguided knowledge, makes my stomach sink. I am not poking at you. I am genuinely concerned for your safety. If you do not have a complete and total understanding of what you are dealing with, you shouldn't touch this stuff. One little mistake can kill very fast. As I have told you before, the book "The Art and Science of Practical Rigging" BY Arbor Master would do you worlds of good. I am not sure who trained you, if anybody, its strange, its obvious that you have some knowledge, but it is all "slightly"off, and that is worse than not knowing at all.
Advanced rigging is not something that you learn on the fly, it is very serous business and you should make sure that you understand that before you set something up.
As far as u giving advice, please stop. You need to swallow the pride and listen, don't argue with someone who is trying to help you, this is the place to get the scoop, not dish out poop. If some one gives you bad info, no worries, these guys will set them straight.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

sgreanbeans said:


> Carb- seriously, you really need to do some reading. Some of the stuff that you say is scaring me, to think that you are out there, doing this, with little or misguided knowledge, makes my stomach sink.



Don't worry, I'm not rigging any 4' diameter x 8' oak chunks, or anything near it; Although I would like to learn how.



> I am not poking at you. I am genuinely concerned for your safety. If you do not have a complete and total understanding of what you are dealing with, you shouldn't touch this stuff.



Seriously, I get it. I never try anything I've never done before without first developing a thorough understanding of what I'm doing. Even then I proceed with a great deal of caution.



> One little mistake can kill very fast. As I have told you before, the book "The Art and Science of Practical Rigging" BY Arbor Master would do you worlds of good. I am not sure who trained you, if anybody, its strange, its obvious that you have some knowledge, but it is all "slightly"off, and that is worse than not knowing at all.



Most of my rigging experience I owe to the engineering school at Ft. Leonard Wood, MO, and to the 82nd Airborne. They do things a bit more expedient than most. Although they do stress safety in thick, monotonous layers. Then they tell you to do things that no normal human-being would even consider. 



> Advanced rigging is not something that you learn on the fly, it is very serous business and you should make sure that you understand that before you set something up.



I agree.



> As far as u giving advice, please stop. You need to swallow the pride and listen, don't argue with someone who is trying to help you, this is the place to get the scoop, not dish out poop. If some one gives you bad info, no worries, these guys will set them straight.



I don't recall giving any advice on rigging, matter of fact all I remember is asking the difference between a pulley and a block.

I thought we had reached an understanding of that already. Why do you insist on barking at me after the issue has been resolved?


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## lone wolf (Feb 20, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> Don't worry, I'm not rigging any 4' diameter x 8' oak chunks, or anything near it; Although I would like to learn how.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If you have a specific task to do ask me I will tell you .


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> If you have a specific task to do ask me I will tell you .



O.K.; How do I get sgreanbeans off my arss? :msp_tongue: Lol, sorry I couldn't resist that one.

Seriously though; I'll do that, but I hope you don't mind if I get a second opinion or two.


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## tree md (Feb 20, 2012)

_Most of my rigging experience I owe to the engineering school at Ft. Leonard Wood, MO, and to the 82nd Airborne. They do things a bit more expedient than most. Although they do stress safety in thick, monotonous layers. Then they tell you to do things that no normal human-being would even consider. _

My brother was a combat engineer who did bridge building and did his training in Ft. Leonard Wood, MO.


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## lone wolf (Feb 20, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> O.K.; How do I get sgreanbeans off my arss? :msp_tongue: Lol, sorry I couldn't resist that one.
> 
> Seriously though; I'll do that, but I hope you don't mind if I get a second opinion or two.



You are the only one to have a problem with him I have ever heard!


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

Del_ said:


> Of course you don't remember giving bad advice.
> 
> That's because you don't believe or have admitted it was bad advice.
> 
> The fact is you have and have been called on it more than once and have sucked up people's time in the process.



I've never given any rigging advice on here at all.



Del_ said:


> How's the fishing out your way?



I don't know, I'm not a professional fisherman. I wouldn't want to give anyone bad advice.


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## lone wolf (Feb 20, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> I've never given any rigging advice on here at all.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know, I'm not a professional fisherman. I wouldn't want to give anyone bad advice.



Call him on it , lets see the post where you give out bad advice.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

tree md said:


> _Most of my rigging experience I owe to the engineering school at Ft. Leonard Wood, MO, and to the 82nd Airborne. They do things a bit more expedient than most. Although they do stress safety in thick, monotonous layers. Then they tell you to do things that no normal human-being would even consider. _
> 
> My brother was a combat engineer who did bridge building and did his training in Ft. Leonard Wood, MO.



I was a Combat Engineer for 15 years. I built a few bridges at Leonard Wood too, and blew up a few as well, not at Leonard Wood though.

WETSU Can Do

Trained to fight, trained to kill, if you can't do it I damn sure will.

HUAH!


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## lone wolf (Feb 20, 2012)

Del_ said:


> You don't think getting the facts wrong on rope strength relates to rigging?
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting for a post from you that shows you are here for more than wasting people's time.



Well since you have taken the time to dog him lets see the post.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

Del_ said:


> You don't think getting the facts wrong on rope strength relates to rigging?



How did I get the facts wrong on rope strength? Did I tell someone that their rope wasn't as strong run through a friction saver as it would be if it were ran over a Cambium saver? 




> I'm still waiting for a post from you that shows you are here for more than wasting people's time.



I'm here to waste your time Del.


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## Toddppm (Feb 20, 2012)

What makes this a Block and a Pulley? Double Micro Block Pulley : SherrillTree Tree Care Equipment


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

Toddppm said:


> What makes this a Block and a Pulley? Double Micro Block Pulley : SherrillTree Tree Care Equipment



Hey man, thanks for the link, but we've already done that.:msp_rolleyes:

But if you really need to know ask Del, he knows it aaaallllll.


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## tree md (Feb 20, 2012)

Here is the best advise I can give: When in doubt go smaller...

And

Don't follow leaders and watch your parking meters. :biggrin:


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## lone wolf (Feb 20, 2012)

tree md said:


> Here is the best advise I can give: When in doubt go smaller...
> 
> And
> 
> Don't follow leaders and watch your parking meters. :biggrin:



And how do you know that?:msp_ohmy:


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> And how do you know that?:msp_ohmy:



His brother told him. He was a Combat Engineer at Ft. LostNTheWoods, and built bridges through the desert back during the war.


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## lone wolf (Feb 20, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> His brother told him. He was a Combat Engineer at Ft. LostNTheWoods, and built bridges through the desert back during the war.



Hey did they ever kick that guy Jodys ass?And why does everyone fire at Will?What did Will do?


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## Tree Pig (Feb 20, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> Hey did they ever kick that guy Jodys ass?And why does everyone fire at Will?What did Will do?



Lone Wolf your a good dude man and I respect your opinion but dont stick up for this ass hat Carb dude, he has spit in the face of everyone that has tried to give him advice since he came in the door. He is the one that knows everything and has all the answers... the sad truth is he is usually way off base and just does not want to hear different.


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## lone wolf (Feb 20, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> Lone Wolf your a good dude man and I respect your opinion but dont stick up for this ass hat Carb dude, he has spit in the face of everyone that has tried to give him advice since he came in the door. He is the one that knows everything and has all the answers... the sad truth is he is usually way off base and just does not want to hear different.



I guess I came in late to the fight.Your word means something to me so I guess I will take your word for it.I kind of noticed it when I said if you need help ask me and he said he wants a second opinion!


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## tree MDS (Feb 20, 2012)

*I didn't read the whole thread, but..*



Blakesmaster said:


> I switched my main ropes from 5/8ths db to 9/16ths db this year after using them in CT with mds. Was really impressed with the amount of weight he was willing to huck onto those 9/16ths lines and how well they took it. I bought a 600' reel and cut it into 3 200 footers, also bought a 150' hank of 3/4 db for the big stuff.



Yep, that's what I run. I can't imagine needing 200' of 3/4" around here.. I guess it's possible though. I have tortured those 9/16 lines for some time now, they take an amazing amount of abuse.. I would worry about the tree breaking first! I do replace them yearly though. I also use the 150' 3/4 for anything that's really gonna be nasty (roping big wood mainly).


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## Kottonwood (Feb 20, 2012)

I haven't read the whole thread either...


I use 5/8ths rope and I abuse the crap out of them This is the rope I use for "heavy" stuff
Bull Rigger 5/8" Rope : SherrillTree Tree Care Equipment

I bought some 5/8 stable braid cuz I thought it was supposed to be the good stuff... broke it yanking over a spar...... I wasn't there so I don't know what really happened but WTF.... I'll stick to the bull rigger from now on, that rope has impressed me. I have a hank of 200' of it right now I have been using for just over a year. It has no major problems from an inspection standpoint but I know what I have done to that thing and I am replacing it soon anyways.... I still would use it to pull a truck out of the mud and I bet it wouldn't break, that is a damn good rope. Also I have rigged pretty heavy on this rope through natural crotches and it just keeps taking the abuse and wanting more.


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## tree MDS (Feb 20, 2012)

PatriotTreeCO said:


> I haven't read the whole thread either...
> 
> 
> I use 5/8ths rope and I abuse the crap out of them This is the rope I use for "heavy" stuff
> ...



The 9/16 DB i use is stronger than your 5/8 ya got there (and I still run it through crotches all the time). I'm pretty sure it's rated at like 11300. 

As far as breaking a 5/8 DB pulling over a spar.. I don't think even murph could do that with the loader and a super-duper step cut.. lol.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> Lone Wolf your a good dude man and I respect your opinion but dont stick up for this ass hat Carb dude, he has spit in the face of everyone that has tried to give him advice since he came in the door. He is the one that knows everything and has all the answers... the sad truth is he is usually way off base and just does not want to hear different.



This Message Is Hidden Because Stihl-O-Matic Is On My Ignore List


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## Kottonwood (Feb 20, 2012)

tree MDS said:


> The 9/16 DB i use is stronger than your 5/8 ya got there (and I still run it through crotches all the time). I'm pretty sure it's rated at like 11300.
> 
> As far as breaking a 5/8 DB pulling over a spar.. I don't think even murph could do that with the loader and a super-duper step cut.. lol.



HAHA, yeah no doubt it is stronger.... don't know how the hell they really broke it.... that was the story I got. My main point is that they don't seem as durable to natural crotching, some ####### driving over it with a skid (that'll piss me right off), or some of the other things that ropes are sometimes subjected to on the jobsite. The stable braid rope obviously had to be damaged in some way to snap like that but it broke close to the knot, so it must have not been obvious enough for someone to notice when tying it on the spar.

I was just saying that bull rope I have is a damn good rope and one of my favorites, it is as strong as I need for the size pieces I take (which is fairly large) and it stands up to a ton of abuse. I like that rope a lot and will continue to use it. I do use half inch DB as well for rigging and for speedlines. I almost exclusively use them with a false crotch or block of some sort though.


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## Tree Pig (Feb 20, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> I've heard few giving actual advice on here, most of the time they're just saying you're wrong, you're off base, you're giving bad advice.
> 
> When in reality I'm asking for advice or clarity most of the time, but seldom get any real answers.
> 
> ...



Keep up the good work your making quite a name for yourself here. I still have strong doubt you have ever climbed a tree with a rope and a saw in your life and you are not more then a poser. 

Your track record has proven you know very little about this work.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

This message is hidden because Stihl-O-Matic is on your ignore list.


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## tree MDS (Feb 20, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> This message is hidden because Stihl-O-Matic is on your ignore list.



The ignore button is for girls.. the only thing gayer than that is the snitcher button. Just saying man..


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## VA-Sawyer (Feb 20, 2012)

"This message is hidden because Stihl-O-Matic is on your ignore list. "

He isn't on my ignore list, because he tends to be right about a lot of stuff. I'm not saying that I always agree with him, sometimes I don't, but I still think about what he says.

You on the other hand are so Clueless that I don't put you on my ignore list either, because I'm trying to keep other greenies from making the mistake of believing any advice you might post. So, Clueless Carb I guess you will never catch on to the facts of treework, but I think we have caught onto you.
Rick


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> "This message is hidden because Stihl-O-Matic is on your ignore list. "
> 
> He isn't on my ignore list, because he tends to be right about a lot of stuff. I'm not saying that I always agree with him, sometimes I don't, but I still think about what he says.
> 
> ...



Honestly, do you really think I'm buying into that?

I mean sure, he knows what he's doing, so he should be right about the business, but flaming has nothing to do with the business.

I've never learned anything from someone who was talking down to me, so why should I even listen to him when he's doing that?

That's his thing, not mine.


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## lone wolf (Feb 20, 2012)

Carburetorless said:


> Honestly, do you really think I'm buying into that?
> 
> I mean sure, he knows what he's doing, so he should be right about the business, but flaming has nothing to do with the business.
> 
> ...



So you were in the 82 Airborne?


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

lone wolf said:


> So you were in the 82 Airborne?



I was attached to the 82nd.


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## Carburetorless (Feb 20, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> I had a turd attached to the bottom of my shoe once. Would that be the same thing ?



Lol :hmm3grin2orange: Didn't anyone ever teach you not to step in ####, you dumb bastard.


----------



## Tree Pig (Feb 20, 2012)

VA-Sawyer said:


> I had a turd attached to the bottom of my shoe once. Would that be the same thing ?



Yup just ask anyone that was in the 82nd its the same thing... again if you read his post earlier he was trying to pass himself off as Airborne. Prolly never even PLF'd off a PT Platform.

Just like his alleged tree work.


----------



## tree MDS (Feb 20, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> Yup just ask anyone that was in the 82nd its the same thing... again if you read his post earlier he was trying to pass himself off as Airborne. Prolly never even PLF'd off a PT Platform.
> 
> Just like his alleged tree work.



Jeez man, calm down! You guys are turning what could be a good constructive discussion, into yet another useless flame war.. :angel:


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## Tree Pig (Feb 20, 2012)

tree MDS said:


> Jeez man, calm down! You guys are turning what could be a good constructive discussion, into yet another useless flame war.. :angel:



I like the new and improved MDS


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## MackenzieTree (Feb 20, 2012)

*Gettin back to riggin*



tree MDS said:


> Yep, that's what I run. I can't imagine needing 200' of 3/4" around here.. I guess it's possible though. I have tortured those 9/16 lines for some time now, they take an amazing amount of abuse.. I would worry about the tree breaking first! I do replace them yearly though. I also use the 150' 3/4 for anything that's really gonna be nasty (roping big wood mainly).


ok 9/16-5/8 bull rope sounds like its for me in ct! did some natural crotch rigging today on a 30-35' maple, only on mid sized limbs lie 4-6" range, tree was in a condo association that was only 15 to 20 feet away from the condo units on two or three sides so drop zone was limited but it came out good nothin damaged, grounds werent bad except for when it came to the main trunk its was snap cuts on 18" sections cant wait to get a good riggin set up now that i know whats good and what i want. Thanks


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## Zale (Feb 20, 2012)

tree MDS said:


> The 9/16 DB i use is stronger than your 5/8 ya got there (and I still run it through crotches all the time). I'm pretty sure it's rated at like 11300.
> 
> As far as breaking a 5/8 DB pulling over a spar.. I don't think even murph could do that with the loader and a super-duper step cut.. lol.



Murph has never broken a 5/8 because he does not own one. 1/2 Blue streak is the only rope a real extreme tree faller needs.


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## MackenzieTree (Feb 25, 2012)

*Burned a hole in my pocket!*

Well $1100.00 later not that it was all rigging equip but its on its way thanks for the info


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## lone wolf (Feb 25, 2012)

MackenzieTree said:


> Well $1100.00 later not that it was all rigging equip but its on its way thanks for the info



Send pics if you can


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## Carburetorless (Feb 25, 2012)

Stihl-O-Matic said:


> Yup just ask anyone that was in the 82nd its the same thing... again if you read his post earlier he was trying to pass himself off as Airborne. Prolly never even PLF'd off a PT Platform.
> 
> Just like his alleged tree work.



What alleged tree work are you referring to?


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## MackenzieTree (Mar 5, 2012)

*some videos*

cheshire tree rig.MOV - YouTube


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## MackenzieTree (Mar 5, 2012)

*before and after*

http://youtu.be/P_QoImAK7D4

Thanks for all the advise guys


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## MackenzieTree (Mar 5, 2012)

cheshire tree rig2 - YouTube
sorry about the last one here it is


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## himiler (Mar 6, 2012)

This is one of the better threads, I really need to learn as much as I can. I don't have the luxury of climbing for someone else to learn, it's this site, books, and videos. It's been that way from the start. I soak up all I can and make sure I tackle nothing that I believe to be over my head.
Carbless, cut it out. You're wasting my time and others. Try taking a barb without returning one. For sanitys sake just shut up and listen for a change!
Steve


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## himiler (Mar 6, 2012)

*PW problems & dynamic rigging*

I'm using Sampson 1/2" blue rigging rope and it seems to stick in my large PortaWrap at the vertical bars where it runs through. My thought is to take it to a welder to add some more weld for no other reason than to have the rope run a bit further out and not bind up. I experimented with JB Weld to see how it would work, other than the epoxy not lasting for more than a couple of runs, the rope definately runs like it should. 

There's been adds for dynamic line (Sherrill Tree) for rigging and if memory serves me, I've watched some of the you tubes on this. Anyone using it? 

Steve


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## sgreanbeans (Mar 6, 2012)

himiler said:


> I'm using Sampson 1/2" blue rigging rope and it seems to stick in my large PortaWrap at the vertical bars where it runs through. My thought is to take it to a welder to add some more weld for no other reason than to have the rope run a bit further out and not bind up. I experimented with JB Weld to see how it would work, other than the epoxy not lasting for more than a couple of runs, the rope definately runs like it should.
> 
> There's been adds for dynamic line (Sherrill Tree) for rigging and if memory serves me, I've watched some of the you tubes on this. Anyone using it?
> 
> Steve



Not sure what u would be doing to get the rope stuck, u gotta pic on how u run it thru? I have had them hockel up when let run real fast, but other than that, never had a problem. Witch direction are u wrapping it?


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## himiler (Mar 6, 2012)

Everything is good as far as proper PW setup & rope wrap. It's where the fillet weld is between the main tube and the vertical bar, the rope is just the right size to get tight in between the two. I'll take some pictures this afternoon once I get a chance to catch up on paperwork.


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