# Presentation on "Modern Developments in Arborist's Knots"



## kevinz (Sep 28, 2003)

I'm a member of the International Guild of Knot Tyers, a group of mostly hobbist's interested in knots and their applications. The North American Branch  will be holding its 2003 convention in Newport News, VA, in three weeks. I've volunteered to give a presentation on "Modern Developments in Arborist's Knots." I think an interesting presentation would be to trace the development of arborist's techinques from climbing line and tautline hitch through the modern knots discussed frequently on this forum.

Here's the first draft of my outline. I just pasted this from PowerPoint, so it's missing the illustrations and speaker's notes.

```
Modern Developments in Arborist’s Knots
How does an arborist climb a tree?
   Climbing the rope vs. climbing the tree
Doubled rope technique
   Dyanmic
   Static
Single rope technique
Rope placement
   Throwline
   Big Shot
False Crotch and Rope Saver
Dynamic Rope Techniques
   Body Thrusting
   Foot Locking
Figure 8
Tautline Hitch
Blake’s Hitch
Prusik Knot
Double Fisherman’s Loop
   Used to attach tress cords to carabiner
Distel Hitch
Machard Tresse
Valdôtain Tresse
Static Rope Techniques
   Foot Locking 
   Mechanical Ascenders
Rigging Knots
   Used to lower cut limbs and spar pieces
Figure 8
Clove Hitch
Bowline
Cow Hitch
Girth Hitch
Timber Hitch
Double Fisherman’s Bend
Water Knot (Ring Bend)
   Used to type webbing into a loop
   Beer Knot variation
References and Sources of Further Information
   Tree Climber’s Companion by Jeff Jepson, 2nd ed. 
   Sherrill Arborist Supply 2003 catalog ([url]www.sherrillinc.com[/url])
   On Rope by Bruce Smith and Allen Padgett
   [url]www.arboristsite.com[/url]
```
If anyone has any suggestions on the flow of the presentation or topics I should leave out or include, I welcome your advice. I think I'll have 45 minutes to an hour and half.

My audience could be described as "knot nerds", including myself -- folks who like knowing the arcania of traditional and modern knots and how they're used, but who, for the most part, don't work with knots on a day-to-day basis. I don't have any worries that someone will say, "Hey, that looks like an easy way to make a living" and start a tree service the next day with just what they learned from my presentation.

As I said, I just started work on the outline today. I hope to find a lot of the illustrations and images for the presentation from this forum. In all cases, I'll try to write to the original posters and get their permission to use the image, mostly so that I can personalize the credit, something like "This is John Doe, of Doe and Daughter's Tree Service, demonstrating foot-locking."

When I've got the presentation more complete, I'll post it as a PDF, so folks can view it in more detail and make suggestions. I just want to get the ball rolling now. I'll also post the finished presentation, for what it's worth.

Thanks for your suggestions and advice.

-Kevin


----------



## Stumper (Sep 28, 2003)

Kevin, You might precede the discussion of the Tautline with mention of the Tarbuck knot. My understanding is that it was "the knot" prior to the Tautline coming to the fore (the tautline is of course an ancient knot so I 'm only speaking of popularity). The Tarbuck won't work safely in synthetic cordage but was fine on manila.


----------



## kevinz (Sep 28, 2003)

*Tarbuck knot?*

Wow, you almost had me stumped (sorry, bad joke), but thank God for Google. I found this at http://www.inquiry.net/outdoor/skills/b-p/wb/rope.htm:

Tarbuck Knot
Convenient tree, lamppost, telephone pole, etc.
Devised by mountaineer Kenneth Tarbuck for nylon rope. The knot grips adequately, but under sudden stress will slide to a limited extent thus reducing shock.

Is this the same one you're thinking of?

Thanks.

-Kevin


----------



## TheTreeSpyder (Sep 28, 2003)

That is pretty good suggestion about how knots and needs change. i think that manilla wasn't as slick, stretchy, and had all those locking hairs to lock knots that would slip out in slippery nylon etc.

i like comprehensive knot families. A clove, constrictor, tautline, distel, buntline etc. family all are the same with diffferent coil counts and taking 1 or both ends. A muenter, 'larks head'/girth, cow, lobster, prusik, swab etc. family A round turn, anchor hitch, barrel/fisherman's, french prusik, blakes, VT, Knut (that also can come off of clove hitch branch of tree) etc. family.

i think that each family like the fig. 8 family in mountain/rescue discliplines is easier to learn as a group with minor differences, and quicker mastery of the lot reaching and grasping them like that. Also learning tendencies of certain knots and how that one knot can teach you tendencies of it's whole family at once etc.

i think that the 'girth' family, clove and round turn family all descend from the simple half hitch choking ring, as does the bowline/sheetbend/becket (as a family.....or kinda like all the same knot! IMLHO)

i look at a timber hitch as a loosely laid eyesplice, preceding it with a choking half hitch gives a double grip, buffers shocking and loading from connection/joint (timber hitch) and makes it drag straighter.

In terminating muenter/girth, roundturn clove etc. , especially in raw/non slef trapping (constrictor, anchor, blakes would be 'self trapping'/standing on own bootstrap), single leg forms it is best to remeber an old adage: "As secure as 2 1/2 hitches....), wether they are made in standing end or standing bight.

i think a knot tender/ self tending knots are a wonderfully simple innovation also. Many knots can be made in slip forms. Also the innovation of truckers tie down/compression rig/z-rig is simplicity and power, especially easilly making it a 6x1 per impacted leg of line...

Working knots, power conversion and transmission are fascinating tools!
:alien:


----------



## SilverBlue (Sep 28, 2003)

Also would add the barrel and perhaps list the strength of individual knots. Would it be too off topic to discuss how mechanical devices and splices are now common as compared to knots (and the newbies who can't tie them)?


----------



## Mahk (Sep 28, 2003)

> _Originally posted by kevinz _
> *
> My audience could be described as "knot nerds", including myself -- folks who like knowing the arcania of traditional and modern knots and how they're used...
> 
> -Kevin *




You should explain the difference between the Machard, Machard tresse, Valdotain and Valdotain tresse.

Also, although Jason Blake introduced Blake's hitch to the tree industry in 1994, the knot was published by Heinz Prohaska in a German mountaineering magazine in 1961 under the name 'Gesteckter Wickelknoten'. It was published by Prohaska in english in Nylon Highway, May 1990 and called simply a 'jamming knot' (in private corespondence he has referred to it in english as the 'tucked coil hitch'). 

Mahk


----------



## murphy4trees (Sep 28, 2003)

I would definitely include a piece on knot tenders and self tending knots.... I think the nerds might really go for the Turner twist... and examples of knot tending devices from micropulley to dog snap, screw link and even the side d-ring on self tending lanyards...
Sounds like fun... keep us posted on time and date.


----------



## Stumper (Sep 28, 2003)

Kevin, Yes that is the Tarbuck. I misspoke when I said it isn't safe in synthetic-the actual problem is kernmantle construction-it tends to rupture the sheath if loaded suddenly. Geoffrey Budworth in his "Complete Encyclopedia of Knots and Ropework" says that it was "popularized" by Tarbuck for mountain climbing but was in use by American tree trimmers in 1946. I think that Clifford Ashley also wrote something about its popularity among arborists when used with manila rope. My memory may be off but I think that Budworth's comment about 1946 comes from a survey that Ashley cites saying it was the most popular knot amongst American arborists in 1946. It does work well on solid ropes.


----------



## Gord (Sep 28, 2003)

ashley on the subject...from the chapter 'occupational knots'







double fisherman's loop...better named as scaffold knot i believe.

also don't forget the oft overlooked half hitch...takes a lot of the strain in rigging blocks, securing clove hitches. as well as the buntline hitch (missing from spydey's clove family), one of the best knots to tie in with IMHO.

don't know if the guild is interested in splicing but if it is might be interesting to note the development of the spliceable kernmantle construction Fly rope.

klemheist/kreutzhelm as alternative to prussik.


----------



## TheTreeSpyder (Sep 29, 2003)

Yes buntline(left out trying to shorten as most seem to prefer/ referance barrel?) sure is in there (clove hitch family), as well as rolling/magnus hitch (utility tautline for tent stakes etc. with only 1 top ring; observe no 4 wraps-no lifeline duty once again!) etc. Just as anchor to self makes barrel, clove to self forms bunt, 'girth to self forms lobster (that can have sleeker, easier to hide tail) i beleive a scaffold hitch for lifting ladder etc. is kinda a clove family too? Spread apart, turned backwards? Notice all clove family walks (as tautline) save forms that you use both ends (distel), or that traps/stands on it's own tail (constrctor). The clove family loaded from one leg actually pushh the trapping ring off the free end, as the pulled line gets squeezed into standing tail and also helps 'track' into it; helping to draw it out as trapping ring is also pushed back(more noticed on straight rather than perpendicular pull)!! Always, use mechanically positive stopper knot on these therefore, especially tauline/lifeline etc. applications. Prusik type lacings even with single line loaded, push the trapping over ring away from free end, and any tracking/dragging pulls free end tighter not looser, but still in open configuations would stopper it, especially lifeline and lifting/lowering; but the 2 families have these seperate charachterisitcs IMLHO.

Also, these knot families are so close (all descended from half hitch), that a knut is not the only crossover knot. i place muenter as a 1 leg in loop 'girth'; but a slipped clove, that ya pull tail for release after loaded and control the resulting strain with the present muenter that is formed is very nice (and shows intersection point of 'families')! A knut can be made as upside down distel(1 over 3,4 clove type), then top single ring left loose to shuffle down over other rings; and grab both ends for the self tending friction hitch- The Knut. Very innovative, sweet simplicity to needed function!

i prefer sitting in the double bowline i've talked apout, with the yosemite tie off coming out the top, serving over to friction hitch nicely. i think it will serve same purpose as that loop (in pic), but can be used with 1 or both legs used in a classically used, familiar knot, rather than the version showed, where it would have to be loaded at both ends(as is pictured). Diaper seat from sling and krab is quick and easy too for seat, then just a smaller bowline with yosebite tie off lacing to friction hitch. But still same knot, muti purpose.

If the bowline is the proclaimed king of knots (choking half hitch ring powered by weight of load, clamping on own line's tail 2x with weight of load for securely holding loop in between double trapped tail and mainline under load, orrrrrrrrrr something like that....), and the clove can be sung as the mother of all knots (by some knot literature); i think that the humble half hitch is the grandmother of all knots. 

i kinda view a Kleimheist (reversed heden knot?) as a breed of the French prusik(same made in loop form as kleimheist?) made with doubled over line/tail/loop, so i kinda sweep it (Kleimheist)up with roundturn family. i kinda came up with the families as always looking for things in common groups, and it already being done with fig. 8's; and just trying to understand relationships. Methinx if the half hitch is grandma, that using it from that form(bowline/sheetbend), doubling it opposing itself in same direction (clove), reversed double facing self('girth'), in unison with another half hitch(rounturn), or lacing itself (stoppers-(overhand, fig. 8, stevedore stopper knots, fig. 8 based family) ) etc. is gonna cover most knots! That choking ring of line (half hitch) whether it crosses itself or not, faces or opposes its twin, threads itself etc. powers the choking, gripping, load reduction (through friction) etc. all powered as a definitive choke from the load itself as a simple machine. Even a 2/1 is a ring choking closing etc.


Working (as well as frilly decorative) knots go back beyond massive loading friction free, powered free transportation (large ships), even beyond dragging stones. Though there first writings that are found i think were by the medical fields for slings and sewing make up the most ancient found texts i beleive (Oribasius).

Just fascinated by the utility of working knots, and how lines transmit power from one location to another, sometimes altering it's balance!

:alien: :alien:


----------



## TheTreeSpyder (Sep 29, 2003)

*Re: Re: Presentation on "Modern Developments in Arborist's Knots"*



> _Originally posted by Mahk _
> *You should explain the difference between the Machard, Machard tresse, Valdotain and Valdotain tresse.
> Mahk *



 Heck Mahk, i'm a lil shady on all that and wouldn't mind knowing all that me'self!


----------



## kevinz (Sep 30, 2003)

*Thanks for all of the suggestions so far.*

Man, you guys are a font of knowledge (trivia? arcania? BS?!). Thanks so much for your suggestions.

Spidy, your suggestion on organizing the knots in families, and moving from the more simple to the more complex, was excellent. I will reorganize the presentation to follow your suggestion. Especially now, that the presentation is taking on more of a hands-on approach.

I want to publicly thank Tobe Sherrill here. Based on his generosity here and in other ways I've heard about, I wrote to him asking for leftover odds and ends from the splicing shop. He not only sent samples of almost every rope, line and cord in the catalog, he had the splicing shop make up 25 5' lengths of Sherrill's arborist's climbing ropes. We'll be able to practice the knots and get a feel, literally, for what makes arborist's rope different from others. Thank you, again, Tobe.

Another great development is a real-life, practicing arborist who might be able to make this presentation with me. I was always self-concious presenting material that I had just mostly read about, and not having the day-to-day experience that you all do. Hopefully, this will make up for my lack of practical experience.

In another thread, Spidy also reminded me of the technique of practicing knots around your thigh or calf. This will work perfectly in an auditorium setting at the Mariner's Museum.

I haven't yet searched out the answer to Mahk's question on, "the difference between the Machard, Machard tresse, Valdotain and Valdotain tresse." Glad that I'm not the only one puzzled by that.

Hopefully in the next couple of days, I can start illustrating the presentation. I'm looking forward to searching this board's archives for some of the excellent images posted illustrating this topic.

Thanks, again, for all your suggestions and advice. I'll keep you all posted.

-Kevin


----------



## TheTreeSpyder (Sep 30, 2003)

Sherrill is something else........

Glad ya could clean something off ta use, from what i tossed out...

Wrapping around thigh and testing, pulling from different directions is real good i think, pulling from different directions to see how knots clamp down differently by the direction of the first choking ring- it can pull open or closed.... i also think it is good for a student climber to play and get the feel of a 1/2" line, knowing all of it, feeling it's strength choking on thigh; realizing at 85' off the ground that skinny half inch will be holding him/her up..... then look at it again.....

To make the double bowline with Y tieoff; i favor the slip knot method of making the bowline. i've recomended it a lot, i use it for everything almost.

i don't remember mentioning, that the first way i saw the slip knot way to make bowline, it was described as the climber's method i beleive....... For someone trapped on the mountainside, and having a line lowered from a helicopter or ledge above and could only let go with one hand at a time. So ya leave room for the slipknot about 5-6' from end (JP- 22'from end), bring the tail around under your arm pits and make slipknot (leave loose and sloopy, it needs to invert)before armpits, then bring werking end from after going under armpits, lace thru slip knot, then fold back to self, and pull down inverting slip knot!

Voila, the tree comes down the hole to the to the wabbit; in my counter intuitive, look both ways wierld! And as an aspiring climber i just had to learn the climber's method....... Now find it quick and easy, especialy making the double bowline with more strength and security.

The Y tie off gives more security, cleans up the eye, makes double bowline more symetrical and makes it less important which way the tail comes out. If the tail of the bowline comes out the side and not in the protected loop; the knot can capsize to a slip knot type knot if that tail grabs on something and jerks (like lowering stuff on dock and tail grabs on a crate.....). This inverting of the knot can happen any way you make the bowline, men on working docks have been killed by that small mistake!

Tie, Dress, Set, ..................Inspect!

Orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr something like that!
:alien:

And how if someone is holding the climber up their is 2x load on the overhead pulley, but give the climber the line in a standard DdRT set up with overhead pulley; and climber now has a 2/1 system of support and lifting self, with half their weight on each leg of support, only 1x load on pulley overhead with this small change.


----------



## TheTreeSpyder (Oct 1, 2003)

i also would like to know if in all your knot minds working, if ya come up with working knot(s) not coming under the half hitch break down and families, eye braids(timber is like loose eye braid to me)

i think that the choking half hitch and it's own permutations is it; that knots work on friction; and especially with our present genre of synthetic lines where the death choke (half hitch ring)powered by the load itself is the best way to get that friction in the slippery lines. Not relying on 'drier', rougher lines and locking hairs under tension of a gone by era.

Then of course if ya circle around something with line, anchor one side and pull the other, ya might leverage some force on the cinch.....

Just as in leading half hitches (or final eye)to give more grabs on load, less strain on weakened joint of knot in line, by holding down one side anchored then bending the line backwards over itself, ya can 2/1 cinch up the half hitch. The maximum leverage is from bending the half hitch all the way over to a closed angle, so as any 2/1 etc. all legs of pull are parallel and close, not wide open angle, then impact that 2/1 system with massive body weight impacting (weight and movement on 2/1). When ya learn the way the lines stretch you can set the cross of the half hitch away from where you really want it, then use preceding technique to set it in full restriction starting from the running bowline (whatever loop) in, each loop/cross ending where, or almost to (possibly erring to non pull side slightly) the direction the force of pull (support on line) comes from. 

If the angle of loading is off to the side, IMLHO, the cross of the half hitch or ring of bowline should be in the opposite direction(looking down at), so that the single line comes off the side of log that is supported and the loop or cross restricts it from going further. In this position the line pulls tighter closed on loading, and not turned around wher it pulls open on the simple choke function. Slings the same way i think; the 'pull tail'/link to support side (towards overhead pulley whatever) of sling serves to that side, eye/end that loops over that comes from opposite of support side, to restrict and pull tighter on loading, rather than give slack/slip. These rings should be above the C.o.B., with final loop closest to C.o.B., for that force and it's direction, are what empower the hiitchings to grab, sometimes getting that backwierds, can cause something smooth and even to slip out.

So i always carry each half hitch down in same direction of turning (Like clove), as well as all the way to bowline /eye; so that all the rings and half hitches get impacted 2/1 set, and will all tighten more in the same direction of pull when needed auto matically upon loading. Not generic line sets, ones crafted for that job of pull and direction.

i think the half hitch rules and is core, even in this segregated, always needs a backup form of leading another knot, the full considerations it could be given to do it's job best etc.

i think (and possibly as a whole 'nutha thread) that Brion Toss's sweating in for leverage technique is fantastic. i've seen guys get ~3/1 on a porty from it. Good reason to set Porty low with a short tail IMLHO. It is described for adjusting sails around a capstan or cleat, for leveraging line tight, moving/lifting; and certainly it's no tool simplicity for gathering power on the spot makes a good trick for the tree bag me thinx!


----------



## Mahk (Oct 4, 2003)

In brief, the Machard and Machard tresse are tied with a loop. The Valdotain and the Valdotain tresse are tied with a cord. The Machard and the Valdotain are simply a series of turns (typically seven) around the climbing line. The Machard tresse and the Valdotain tresse are turns (typically four) above and braids (typically three) below ('tresse' means 'braid' in French). There are many variations of each of these, some named, some not. Together, all of these are known as the French Prusik. 

Because the M. and the V. are simply a series of turns they are bi-directional. That is, if you make the turns then attach the carabiner you would normally pull the carabiner down and the turns would 'cascade' into place. But, if, instead of pulling down, you pulled up, the knot would still form in exactly the same fashion. It would just be up-side-down. Not much use for tree climbing, but it might be useful in some rigging applications. It does not invert as fast as the prusik (which is bi-directional without any realignment of the parts) and is probably a little slower than the Munter as well. Nonetheless, knowing that it is bi-directional helps understand the difference between the M. and V. on the one hand, and the Mt. and Vt. on the other.

The Mt. and Vt. are a series of turns, then the ends are braided, downwards around the line, first one leg on top then the other. When finished, the Mt. and Vt. look similar to the M. and V., but because the former two are true braids they cannot invert. They are uni-directional. 

If you tie a V. with a slack tender and push up on the knot quickly several times (as when ascending to a new work position) the leg of the cord that is the top turn will simply open all the way to the top of the knot. After pushing up several times the knot tends to become quite loose and hence is called 'high maintenance'.

If you do the same with the Vt. the braid causes each leg to push against the other. That is, because one leg is alternately above then below the other, each will at some point push up on the other. The one on top will hold the other which has the effect of keeping the whole knot intact. Given the same lenghts of cord, the V. will come loose and need to be dressed sooner than the Vt.

Again it helps to remember that 'tresse' is french for 'braid'. The Valdotain is a series of turns, while the Valdotain tresse ('braid') is a series of turns and braids.

The word 'autoblock' has sometimes been used to refer to the French Prusik. 'Autoblock' is from the french 'autobloquant' which means 'self-jamming'. It is used to refer to a category of knots, of which the French Prusik is just one. These knots will slide when you pull on them but grab (self-jam) when released. The term is probably better compared with our term 'friction hitch'. 

On the site-which-cannot-be-named someone had asked about the Hedden knot and the Klemheist. I correspond with someone who has been studying and writing about knots for years and posed this question to him. His response:


The Klemheist is an inverted Hedden Knot. Chet Hedden says
he tried that variation and preferred the orientation he
published in 1959(?). It was obvious to me and I called
it an inverted Hedden knot in 1967(?). (I don't have the
refs to check dates here.) "Klemheist" was introduced in
Bill March's book, Modern Rope Techniques, in 1973, along
with several other new names for old knots.


You do not mention the Schwabisch, but for the knot nerds arcania the Schwabisch has been in tree climbing circles for only four or five years. The knot and its characteristics were described in an article thirty years ago and the knot was called simply an asymmetrical prusik. 


Mahk


----------



## TheTreeSpyder (Oct 5, 2003)

Thanx Mahk! Really answered some questions, filled some holes etc. And Schwab is certainly in prusik family tree, though as a single form to take you the farthest in tree work through different graduations etc. (tautline, distel, Knut for example) i've considered the clove line the leading single branch personally.

And once again, bring forward, the power, simpllicity and ever working prescence of that lil' half hitch!, and how and where it chokes and grabs, to power all this....


----------

