# Chain is not cutting striaght



## ABOVE & BEYOND (Jan 7, 2006)

Anyone, As odd as this seems, I know what causes a chainsaw to cut uneven. I just don't know how to fix the chain without wearing my cutters and rakes down to nothing. I am operating a 440 Magnum Stihl and when cutting logs 10" in diameter and greater the chain pulls to the right (Looking down on the saw). All of my cuts made today were time consuming and always on an embarrasing angle. 

So, with that being said....if the saw is always pulling to the right, do I need to file down the cutters on the right side to match the left side or vice versa. Please help. 

Geoff


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## Crofter (Jan 7, 2006)

Try this thread

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=16749&highlight=cutting+crooked


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## Bermie (Jan 7, 2006)

Once you have checked out all your filing angles, cutter lengths and raker heights, and bar rail condition; as simple as this sounds, check how you are holding your saw. If your left hand is too far one way or the other on the handle you can inadvertently tip the saw and its weight will cause it to pull one way or the other, also check you are not subconciously twisting either hand while you cut. I have caught myself a few times doing this especially while crosscutting!


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## clearance (Jan 7, 2006)

Bar is bent.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jan 7, 2006)

clearance said:


> Bar is bent.


Very funny Clearance, but not true. A bent bar will cut straight and fast, it'll just cut with a curve.

It's most likely the bar rails are uneven, or the bar groove is worn. 
The first thing to do is replace the rim on the clutch drum, then grind the bar rails flat. Depending on how old the chain is, you might want to just throw the chain away.

With a well cutting saw, you should be able to steer it as it goes through the wood. In other words, it should basically cut straight, but if you twist slightly on the handles, you should be able to cut a curve, left or right.
When I'm cutting off a stump, I look ahead, and if I see a patch of dirt I can steer the saw up and over it, and then back down to grade.


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## OutOnaLimb (Jan 9, 2006)

It sounds like the bar is either worn on one side more than the other or simply there is a bur on the bar that will throw the chain off to the side as it passes through the wood. Sounds to me you need to dress, or replace your bar. Not the chain, but that could help to.

Kenn


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## clearance (Jan 9, 2006)

Humor me-take the bar off and lay it on a good 4" level to see how straight it is.


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## skwerl (Jan 9, 2006)

or flip the bar and see if it curves in the opposite direction.


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## Crofter (Jan 9, 2006)

Mike I think if you do a close test on a bent bar you will see that it does more than cut a curve from a top view. I had a crooked bar that I noticed seemed to throw a lot of sawdust out over the nose once the outgoing chain entered the cut. Due to the tension on a chain and centrifual force the chain tries to span a straight line across the curve in the bar. The bottom of the chain is forced into the groove so it will cut closely following the curve of the bar but will still try to lean to the inside of the curve. Straightening the bar did improve the performance. I think in this instance that if the chain is still cutting crooked after good sharpening and a true bar, that one side of the chain rails and drive links are worn and it will take a new chain to straighten things out.


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## tawilson (Jan 9, 2006)

ABOVE & BEYOND said:


> So, with that being said....if the saw is always pulling to the right, do I need to file down the cutters on the right side to match the left side or vice versa. Please help.
> Geoff


You need to find the shortest cutter, and file all of them down to that, or close anyways. Chances are, your cutters are longer on one side. After a few touchup sharpenings, my cutters usually need evening up. I guess it's cause I'm lefthanded.


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## PTS (Jan 9, 2006)

I would suggest taking the chain to a saw repair shop where they regularly sharpen chains on machine. If the operator of the machine is good there will be very little loss of material and the problem will be fixed. Many swear by sharpening by hand and some of my guys refuse to do anything but by hand, but when it is that far out of wack the 3-5 dollars it will cost is worth it.


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## ozy365 (Jan 9, 2006)

Anti vibe handles can factor in as well. Twist the power head against the log when you are in the kerf. If I get fatigued, I find I curve to the right as well..."staightening" the power head while in the cut seems to clear that up.


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## ABOVE & BEYOND (Jan 9, 2006)

guys, thanks for all the help. I will take all of the learnings from this thread and apply it to the bar and chain. Hopefully, after I have put the bar on a 4 foot level and put every cutter and rake on the micrometer, I will have a saw that cuts straight. Chances are that I will end up buying a new bar and Chain  , but I wanted to be able to problem solve before throwing in the towel. Again, Thank you! Geoff


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## tawilson (Jan 10, 2006)

I keep some packages of those wooden shims around. They're handy for cleaning out the groove and scraping crud off the saw. I also lay one across the bar to see how even the rails when it's in the vise. They are also handy for stirring paint and digging cat food out of the can. You can even shim with them.


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## BlackenedTimber (Jan 10, 2006)

definately have the cutters squared away by a saw shop. if your lucky, it will only cost 3-5 bucks, like PTS said. Mine cost me about 8-10, but thier big chains and I live in New York. wooopie.


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## PTS (Jan 10, 2006)

Thought this might Help.


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## PTS (Jan 10, 2006)

Speaking of scraping crud out of the bar. My guys prefer their driver's license. I like it because it means they are carrying it.  

I have to admitt. That is my tool of choice also.


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## skwerl (Jan 10, 2006)

PTS, I started using a 1.5" stiff putty knife many years ago. Have tried other tools since but always go back to the putty knife. They're cheap, too. About $3 for the good ones at Home Depot or any hardware store.


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## PTS (Jan 10, 2006)

Driver's License are $1 to replace if broken and you should have it with you


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## PTS (Jan 10, 2006)

I should also add, I really like the DL because it is plastic and it won't scatch or scar the inside of the bar.


Not sure if that would really make a differance or not.?.?.?


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## Diesel JD (Jan 10, 2006)

I guess we are getting screwed in FL...DL costs $10 to replace.


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## PTS (Jan 10, 2006)

Gotta Love IOWA


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## Pollock777 (Jan 14, 2006)

I agree with Tawilson I had the same problem with my 044. I filed all my teeth the same size and it cut perfect. That was the problem I had.I dress (or file) my bar with every new chain or every other to keep the worn edge from getting to large.


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## tawilson (Jan 14, 2006)

Yeah, those guys were just messing around with all the bent bar stuff. I'm surprised someone didn't tell him to change bar oil. 
By the way, you can buy 14 wooden shims for about a buck.


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## topnotchtree (Jan 14, 2006)

I have a box of large paper clips in my truck for paperwork, and have found you can bend an end wire out from the paper clip to clean out bar rails. they are also small enough to clean out the bar oil holes in the bar. I also keep a small paint brush in the toolbox to clean the saw before reassembly.


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## PTS (Jan 14, 2006)

I hooked up a hose off of the 2nd air tank of the air brakes on the bucket truck and ran it out the back to a self retracting hose real. I can pull the hose out and blow off the saws and then send it back in. Works great and no extra air compressor. 

I do like the brush idea for the climbing crew. They don't have the air luxury.


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## topnotchtree (Jan 14, 2006)

And you can use an impact wrench on those stubborn bar nuts ! lol


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## PTS (Jan 14, 2006)

Can't say I have that problem but yes I can. I have also used it to run an air hammer to chip away at Ice in cutters and on roofs.


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## M.D. Vaden (Jan 20, 2006)

tawilson said:


> I keep some packages of those wooden shims around. They're handy for cleaning out the groove and scraping crud off the saw. I also lay one across the bar to see how even the rails when it's in the vise. They are also handy for stirring paint and digging cat food out of the can. You can even shim with them.




Ever tried one of those tiny plastic tools designed from scraping the crud out of the bar groove?


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## tawilson (Jan 20, 2006)

Nope.


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## BlackenedTimber (Jan 20, 2006)

maybe its just me, but I use the flathead-end of my bar tool to clean out the bar groove. seems to be just wide and just long enough to do the job well. Dont know whether or not it was designed for that, but it works.


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## huggybear (Jan 21, 2006)

Compressed air usually works pretty good for cleaning out the bar groove, they also make special tools for it too, but i use a metal rake tine in a pinch. Also after dressing the bar, top and sides, dont forget to clean it out so the metal shavings aren't in the bar groove. I hand file, and its a great skill to have to be able to quickly and efficiently sharpen in the field. And there's nothing better than sharpening a saw and it cutting like butter.


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## timber (Jan 28, 2006)

*i know how to fix that*



ABOVE & BEYOND said:


> Anyone, As odd as this seems, I know what causes a chainsaw to cut uneven. I just don't know how to fix the chain without wearing my cutters and rakes down to nothing. I am operating a 440 Magnum Stihl and when cutting logs 10" in diameter and greater the chain pulls to the right (Looking down on the saw). All of my cuts made today were time consuming and always on an embarrasing angle.
> 
> So, with that being said....if the saw is always pulling to the right, do I need to file down the cutters on the right side to match the left side or vice versa. Please help.
> 
> Geoff


hi


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## Homelyhusky (Feb 1, 2006)

*Chain shields*

Those metal plated you have on each side of the bar make a good groove cleaner.


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