# twin hydraulic cylinder wood splitter



## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

Ok, im getting ready to build a super splitter. Its gonna be one of those ''get-r-dun'' splitters. Im wanting to be able to bust a whole piece of wood with 1 stroke. Probably build an assortment of 4,6,and 8 way wedges. Im wanting to run a 6'' cylinder, but having a hard time shoveling out the dough for this size. So im sitting around today watching it rain and come up with a brain fart of running two 3'' or 3 1/2'' (same price) size cylinder. I could run them off a selector valve and just run 1 if i was splitting small stuff or flip a valve and run 2. Im thinking id have ultra fast cycle times when splitting small stuff on 1 cylinder and big tonnage when running 2 cylinders splitting a piece of 24-30'' hickory. Any body have any input good or bad? Think itll work? Will two 3'' cylinders have the same tonnage as one 6'' cylinder? Thanks


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## 2FatGuys (Apr 20, 2010)

A single 3.5" cylinder has a piston surface area of 9.62 square inches. A single 5" cylinder has a piston surface area of 19.63 square inches. Trying to create some sort of load equalizing mounting system for a single / dual 3.5" arrangement will be more headache than it is worth. Stay with a single cylinder so that you don't have to worry about disproportionate pressures.

Single 3.5" cylinder = 14.43 tons at 3000psi
Double 3.5" cylinder = 28.86 tons at 3000psi
Single 5" cylinder = 29.45 tons at 3000psi
Single 6" cylinder = 42.41 tons at 3000psi


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## AKKAMAAN (Apr 20, 2010)

You will need four 3" to match one 6" cylinder......

Two 4 1/4" cylinders will match one 6" cylinder......

How many tons of splitting force do want from that splitter? This will determine max pressure

What cycle time are you designing for? This will determine pump size (flow)

What size prime mower?....see pressure and flow for Hp.....

For every 10gpm, you will get 1.36" per sec extend speed, and 1.82" per sec retract speed.......

For every 1000psi, you will get 14.14 tons of splitting force.......

At 10gpm/1000psi you will need at least 5.83hp prime mower power (10*1000/1714)


"Ultra fast" cycle time???
I think you should take a look at your "math" numbers.....and then....

Also take a look at the idea of using a regenerative valve.....that will make your cylinder "2-stage" on extend....no difference on retract though...
A relatively small size piston rod will give you very fast extend speed....but of course a slower retract speed...but a a rod at 50% diameter of the bore, will give you a 4 times "gear ratio" ......

Getting "ultra fast" with a two stage pump, possible if you can find big enough pump.....


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

2FatGuys said:


> A single 3.5" cylinder has a piston surface area of 9.62 square inches. A single 5" cylinder has a piston surface area of 19.63 square inches. Trying to create some sort of load equalizing mounting system for a single / dual 3.5" arrangement will be more headache than it is worth. Stay with a single cylinder so that you don't have to worry about disproportionate pressures.
> 
> Single 3.5" cylinder = 14.43 tons at 3000psi
> Double 3.5" cylinder = 28.86 tons at 3000psi
> ...




Ah, so i see. I five inch cylinder will do more than 2 3s. I was just thinkin aloud, but sounds like it sucks.




AKKAMAAN said:


> You will need four 3" to match one 6" cylinder......
> 
> Two 4 1/4" cylinders will match one 6" cylinder......
> 
> ...



I havent done any calculations. Just reading over what other people have built and thinking out load. I kinda thought that this might be the case. Looks like 2 3'' cylinders would be the same as a 6'', but its kinda like 2 8'' force main sewer line pipes wont flow the same as a single 16'' pipe. Oh well.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 20, 2010)

AKKAMAAN said:


> You will need four 3" to match one 6" cylinder......
> 
> Two 4 1/4" cylinders will match one 6" cylinder......
> 
> ...



??? I can't see how the size of the rod has any effect on extend time. I must be missing something.

Harry K


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> ??? I can't see how the size of the rod has any effect on extend time. I must be missing something.
> 
> Harry K



I missed it all. lol All them numbers went over my head. I just want a strong splitter.


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

Ok, If i build the splitter with a 5x24 cylinder and hook it to my 82hp john deere skidsteer with an advertised 3100 psi and 24 gpm or high flow side is 34 gpm, what am i going to end up with?


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## leon (Apr 20, 2010)

*log splitter-oh boy :^0*



komatsuvarna said:


> Ok, im getting ready to build a super splitter. Its gonna be one of those ''get-r-dun'' splitters. Im wanting to be able to bust a whole piece of wood with 1 stroke. Probably build an assortment of 4,6,and 8 way wedges. Im wanting to run a 6'' cylinder, but having a hard time shoveling out the dough for this size. So im sitting around today watching it rain and come up with a brain fart of running two 3'' or 3 1/2'' (same price) size cylinder. I could run them off a selector valve and just run 1 if i was splitting small stuff or flip a valve and run 2. Im thinking id have ultra fast cycle times when splitting small stuff on 1 cylinder and big tonnage when running 2 cylinders splitting a piece of 24-30'' hickory. Any body have any input good or bad? Think itll work? Will two 3'' cylinders have the same tonnage as one 6'' cylinder? Thanks



=========================================================


If you are intent on building one-


the use of the race track flow diagram I have uploaded on the forum is something that you will want to install to heat the oil and keep it hot as hot oil has mor e fluid energy available for work.


IF and only if you pursue this-

A single telescoping double acting hydraulic cylinder is what you want to install to do what you want to do but its simply a matter of fluid power against the resistance of the grain of the wood-frozen wood splits easier anyway.


The telescoping cyinder must be adequately supported with a sled for the ram maintain alignment on the log splitter.


You will need very little pressure to operate a double acting telescoping cylinder to split any fire wood due to its method of flow and energy delivery to the load encountered. 

The exposed surface area of the double acting telescoping cylinder provides you with a huge area of pressure per square inch to provide energy to the load.



leon


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## leon (Apr 20, 2010)

*log splitter*



komatsuvarna said:


> Ok, If i build the splitter with a 5x24 cylinder and hook it to my 82hp john deere skidsteer with an advertised 3100 psi and 24 gpm or high flow side is 34 gpm, what am i going to end up with?








The system is dependent on the pump to deliver the heated oil to the cylinder to split the fire wood- it is simply a question of resistance against the fluid power delivered before the relief valve opens and relieves the circuits pressure when the resistance is felt in back pressure to the relief valve.

This is also why splitting frozen firewood is so nice to do as it is frozen.


The high flow will not matter unfortunately as you have circuit that does not use a hydraulic motor.

The fittings on the cylinder barrel are what determines how much oil enters and exits the cylinder-this is why I always mention the racetrack check valve diagram to heat your oil and keep it hot or use a salamander space heater to heat the log splitter and oil to temp- it works and always has worked for me to do it this way.

if you mount the cylinder with the barrel on the business end it will retract faster and the rod side of the cylinder will require less oil to cycle but you problem is still a problem and that is why I mentioned the telescoping cylinder AGAIN for splitting fiewood.







leon


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

leon said:


> =========================================================
> 
> 
> If you are intent on building one-
> ...





leon said:


> The system is dependent on the pump to deliver the heated oil to the cylinder to split the fire wood- it is simply a question of resistance against the fluid power delivered before the relief valve opens and relieves the circuits pressure when the resistance is felt in back pressure to the relief valve.
> 
> This is also why splitting frozen firewood is so nice to do as it is frozen.
> 
> ...





:censored: telescoping cylinder for a wood splitter? Sounds like it belongs on my dump trucks.


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## AKKAMAAN (Apr 20, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> ??? I can't see how the size of the rod has any effect on extend time. I must be missing something.
> 
> Harry K



Oh thats when you use the regenerative valve.....


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## les-or-more (Apr 20, 2010)

Its not that difficult the larger the cylinder bore the more oil it takes to fill it and the larger the piston the more mechanical advanatage. The rod on the retract side reduces sq.inches of surface on the piston so reduces the power the cylinder has, the rod also reduces volume so makes the ram move faster with the same gpm pump.


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

Can somebody tell me the correct way to calculate tonnage. probably have to explain it in ediot terms.lol


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## les-or-more (Apr 20, 2010)

I dont know how to type pi but the formula is pi r squared that gives you sq in. of surface on the piston then multiply by oil pressure in psi and divide by 2000.


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

so 5'' cylinder= 5x3.1416=15.708 15.708x3000lbs pressure=47124lbs.2000lbs=23.562 tons. Is this correct,cause it dont sound right to me?


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## les-or-more (Apr 20, 2010)

No thats ╥ d you want ╥r squared 5" would be 2.5x 2.5x3.14
typing skills suck sorry


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

oh yeah, i got it then. 29.43 tons


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

Is there a formula for cycle time?


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## les-or-more (Apr 20, 2010)

komatsuvarna said:


> oh yeah, i got it then. 29.43 tons



Yup, for volume you multiply by the stroke to get cu. in. there are 231 cu in. in a gallon. You have to figure the area of the rod and subtract that form the area of the piston to get the tonnage on the return stroke. The rod also reduces the volume of the other side of the cylinder so it takes less oil to fill and travels faster. I have the formulas some place but i can't find them.


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## les-or-more (Apr 20, 2010)

komatsuvarna said:


> Is there a formula for cycle time?



You have to figure the volume of the cylinder on both sides in gal. then divide the gpm of the pump by it i think.That should get you cycles per min.


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

les-or-more said:


> Yup, for volume you multiply by the stroke to get cu. in. there are 231 cu in. in a gallon. You have to figure the area of the rod and subtract that form the area of the piston to get the tonnage on the return stroke. The rod also reduces the volume of the other side of the cylinder so it takes less oil to fill and travels faster. I have the formulas some place but i can't find them.



Well it aint that big of a deal. At least i did figure out the tonnage. Ive been looking at a few splitters and i believe the tonnage is a little mis leading on some. Like 42 tons on a 5x30 cylinder using a 2 stage barnes pump. I may be wrong, but i dont believe the pump pressure will go that high.


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 20, 2010)

*Let's be Reasonable*

Take a look at this chart:







Note how much larger the pump must be to move bigger cylinders and maintain a reasonable cycle time. Most logs can be split with a 3" dia. cylinder. A 4" dia. cylinder with a 22 gpm pump might be optimal. A 16 gpm, 2-stage pump is usually more than enough.

It's senseless to use a Howitzer to kill a fly unless you want to run a side show at a carnival.


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> Take a look at this chart:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hey i like the chart. My splitter will be run off my skid steer. Its advertized for 24 gpm at 3100psi max. It has the high flow option for 34 gpm, but thats probably too much i guess.


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## les-or-more (Apr 20, 2010)

komatsuvarna said:


> Well it aint that big of a deal. At least i did figure out the tonnage. Ive been looking at a few splitters and i believe the tonnage is a little mis leading on some. Like 42 tons on a 5x30 cylinder using a 2 stage barnes pump. I may be wrong, but i dont believe the pump pressure will go that high.


The only thing i can come up with is they are rating the pressure applied by the edge of the wedge because the numbers don't jive. Something else to consider is the valve on the splitter a lot of them are only rated to flow 25gpm or less. A 28gpm pump is kind of a waste if the valve will only flow 25. Also check hose pressure rating if the hose is only rated at 2250 psi it doesn't last long at a 3000psi working pressure.


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## AKKAMAAN (Apr 20, 2010)

3.14*5^2/4=
25/4=6.25
3.14*6.25=19.63 sqi

1000psi>>19630lbs=9.8 tons
2000psi>>19.6 tons
etc

conclusion and an easy rule of thumb for a 5" cylinder

"approx..." 1 ton per 100psi"


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## komatsuvarna (Apr 20, 2010)

Ive looked my parts over pretty good. Im wanting to use the prince auto cycle valve and im probably going to put a hydraulic adjustable wedge on it. I may end up doing a log lift too, i havent made my mind up yet. Ill take some pictures of the build and may start a new thread if any body is interested in seeing it. I was wanting to use a 6 inch cylinder, but considering the price increase i guess ill end up with a 5 inch. Unless any body knows were to pick up a 6x24 with out breaking the bank?


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## BlueRidgeMark (Apr 20, 2010)

leon said:


> the use of the race track flow diagram I have uploaded on the forum is something that you will want to install to heat the oil and keep it hot as hot oil has mor e fluid energy available for work.





The work is done by the motor, not the fluid. The fluid merely transfers the energy of the motor to the wood. Overly cold fluid will run more slowly simply because it is more viscous, and more of the motor's energy will be expended on forcing the fluid through the plumbing. Once the fluid has reached operating temperature, it flows more freely, thus more of the motor's energy gets to the wood.



While we're on the subject, the rod diameter has nothing to do with cycle time. It has a lot to do with STRENGTH, but NOTHING to do with cycle time.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Apr 20, 2010)

les-or-more said:


> I dont know how to type pi ...




You just did!


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## AKKAMAAN (Apr 20, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> The work is done by the motor, not the fluid. The fluid merely transfers the energy of the motor to the wood. Overly cold fluid will run more slowly simply because it is more viscous, and more of the motor's energy will be expended on forcing the fluid through the plumbing. Once the fluid has reached operating temperature, it flows more freely, thus more of the motor's energy gets to the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> While we're on the subject, the rod diameter has nothing to do with cycle time. It has a lot to do with STRENGTH, but NOTHING to do with cycle time.



ry I mentioned that regen valve.....I screwed up for you guys....

Btw....Isn't the retract part of the cycle too??

Rod diameter indeed have impact on cycle time....the larger rod diameter, the less volume needed to retract cylinder....


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## les-or-more (Apr 20, 2010)

AKKAMAAN said:


> ry I mentioned that regen valve.....I screwed up for you guys....
> 
> Btw....Isn't the retract part of the cycle too??
> 
> Rod diameter indeed have impact on cycle time....the larger rod diameter, the less volume needed to retract cylinder....


Yup the rod does change the cycle time.


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## les-or-more (Apr 20, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> You just did!



Ya but i was trying to type the formula for him and i really suck at typing, but i guess i did good enough for him to understand.


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## Chuck Diesel (Apr 20, 2010)

Try this:
http://www.baumhydraulics.com/pages.php?pageid=4

Good Luck 
Chuck D.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 21, 2010)

les-or-more said:


> Its not that difficult the larger the cylinder bore the more oil it takes to fill it and the larger the piston the more mechanical advanatage. The rod on the retract side reduces sq.inches of surface on the piston so reduces the power the cylinder has, the rod also reduces volume so makes the ram move faster with the same gpm pump.



True, but the rod size has no effect on the _extend_ cycle.

Harry K


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 21, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> The work is done by the motor, not the fluid. The fluid merely transfers the energy of the motor to the wood. Overly cold fluid will run more slowly simply because it is more viscous, and more of the motor's energy will be expended on forcing the fluid through the plumbing. Once the fluid has reached operating temperature, it flows more freely, thus more of the motor's energy gets to the wood.
> 
> *Exactly. Any heat above that needed to make the oil flow easily is waste energy*
> 
> ...



Harry K


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## John D (Apr 21, 2010)

komatsuvarna said:


> Ive looked my parts over pretty good. Im wanting to use the prince auto cycle valve and im probably going to put a hydraulic adjustable wedge on it. I may end up doing a log lift too, i havent made my mind up yet. Ill take some pictures of the build and may start a new thread if any body is interested in seeing it. I was wanting to use a 6 inch cylinder, but considering the price increase i guess ill end up with a 5 inch. Unless any body knows were to pick up a 6x24 with out breaking the bank?



I built a splitter using a 5" cylinder on my Cat SS with 23 gpm and 3300psi....you do not need a 6" cylinder! My 5" will sheer most trees right in 2...If I had it to do over,id get a 4.5" cylinder,for faster cycle times. Ive broke my splitter 3x already,everytime its the wedge breaking off,its just so powerful.I am telling you do not get a 6" cylinder,it will cycle slow,esp if you have 1/2"hydro lines like I do,they dont flow that great...forget about using the high flow....I have put pics up someplace here of my splitter....gotta dig them up....


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## les-or-more (Apr 21, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> True, but the rod size has no effect on the _extend_ cycle.
> 
> Harry K


In the intrest of keeping things simple its easier to look at a hydraulic cylinder as having two strokes the extend stroke and the retract stroke that complete a cycle. You are correct that the rod has no effect on the extend stroke though. I also agree with you that heat is the enemy of hydraulic systems.


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## 2FatGuys (Apr 21, 2010)

les-or-more said:


> Something else to consider is the valve on the splitter a lot of them are only rated to flow 25gpm or less. A 28gpm pump is kind of a waste if the valve will only flow 25.



That's true, unless you use the excess flow elsewhere! Several guys have mentioned log lifts, wedge adjustment, etc. using their hydraulics. The flow to these smaller cylinders has to be restricted in order to make these functions practical and useable (think "log launch" if not). On the splitter I am building, we are placing a "priority diverter" as the first valve inline after the pump. We will be using that to "bleed off" 4gpm to go to the hydraulic circuit for those auxillary functions and allowing the "excess" 24gpm to be used for splitting purposes. This allows us to have two separate circuits that are unaffected by each other. In other words, I can be splitting at 3000psi and 24gpm, while my partner simultaneously lifts the next log into position. Both operate at the same time.


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## les-or-more (Apr 21, 2010)

2FatGuys said:


> That's true, unless you use the excess flow elsewhere! Several guys have mentioned log lifts, wedge adjustment, etc. using their hydraulics. The flow to these smaller cylinders has to be restricted in order to make these functions practical and useable (think "log launch" if not). On the splitter I am building, we are placing a "priority diverter" as the first valve inline after the pump. We will be using that to "bleed off" 4gpm to go to the hydraulic circuit for those auxillary functions and allowing the "excess" 24gpm to be used for splitting purposes. This allows us to have two separate circuits that are unaffected by each other. In other words, I can be splitting at 3000psi and 24gpm, while my partner simultaneously lifts the next log into position. Both operate at the same time.


 I used to work for a fab shop and we had a farmer ask us to build him a silage body for a dump truck. The farmer wanted it to complete a dump cycle in less than 30 seconds.We built the body and installed the cylinders he brought us and he took it home to plumb the hydraulics. I got to work a few days later and the truck was back with the rams on the tailgate bent.The farmer had put a huge gpm pump on it to raise the bed with no restrictors on the gate cylinders.The tailgate would raise so fast the momentum would carry the tailgate beyond 90 degrees and bends the rods. It looked like a catapult it would fly up so fast.


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## AKKAMAAN (Apr 21, 2010)

les-or-more said:


> ...... You are correct that the rod has no effect on the extend stroke though. I also agree with you that heat is the enemy of hydraulic systems.



Indeed the rod size have an effect on the heat in the system...even if it is a "big thing", it's still there....

Bigger size rod creats less backpressure thru filter......


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 21, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> The work is done by the motor, not the fluid. The fluid merely transfers the energy of the motor to the wood. Overly cold fluid will run more slowly simply because it is more viscous, and more of the motor's energy will be expended on forcing the fluid through the plumbing. Once the fluid has reached operating temperature, it flows more freely, thus more of the motor's energy gets to the wood.
> 
> While we're on the subject, the rod diameter has nothing to do with cycle time. It has a lot to do with STRENGTH, but NOTHING to do with cycle time.


Correct, Mark (first paragraph only). But once the pump's capacity is reached, the motor's extra horsepower doesn't meant tits on a bull. Most of the time, it's the pump's capacity coupled with the cylinder size that determines the cycle time. Most splitter MFGs add an extra Hp or two to the pump's recommendation in case the engine has a few hiccups. Anything beyond that is meaningless.

Rod diameter would decrease the effective diameter of the cylinder. The larger the rod, the less fluid that is inside the cylinder. So, larger rods do influence cycle time by reducing it and also reducing the maximum force that the cylinder can exert on the log.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 22, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> Correct, Mark (first paragraph only). But once the pump's capacity is reached, the motor's extra horsepower doesn't meant tits on a bull. Most of the time, it's the pump's capacity coupled with the cylinder size that determines the cycle time. Most splitter MFGs add an extra Hp or two to the pump's recommendation in case the engine has a few hiccups. Anything beyond that is meaningless.
> 
> Rod diameter would decrease the effective diameter of the cylinder. The larger the rod, the less fluid that is inside the cylinder. So, larger rods do influence cycle time by reducing it and also reducing the maximum force that the cylinder can exert on the log.



Correct in most but the rod diameter has no effect on max force. The rod is not on the 'force to extend' side of the piston.

Harry K


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## 2FatGuys (Apr 22, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> Most of the time, it's the pump's capacity coupled with the cylinder size that determines the cycle time.



Engine RPM / Pump GPM / Cylinder size / Rod size = the factors for calculating cycle time (assuming no added restrictions to flow).



Wood Doctor said:


> Most splitter MFGs add an extra Hp or two to the pump's recommendation in case the engine has a few hiccups. Anything beyond that is meaningless.



Actually, the pump flow curves published by the manufacturers are calculated based on pump efficiencies, displacement, pressure and a constant value for HP per GPM. If you see a recommendation like "we recommend xx hp for this pump", you may be seeing some "fluff". But reading the curves is a REAL value.



Wood Doctor said:


> Rod diameter would decrease the effective diameter of the cylinder. The larger the rod, the less fluid that is inside the cylinder. So, larger rods do influence cycle time by reducing it and also reducing the maximum force that the cylinder can exert on the log.



You have this backwards... unless you are splitting on the RETURN stroke of the cylinder. The rod decreases the piston surface area on the return stroke only and is statistically insignificant on the extend stroke.


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 23, 2010)

Corrections accepted. Rod size only influences the return stoke and thus decreases the cycle time. However, some splitters split in both directions, so a larger rod would decrease the splitting force on the return stroke.

I still contend that adding more RPM and/or HP to a splitter will do nothing for it if the pump is already running at rated capacity. However, you will likely waste more fuel.


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## 2FatGuys (Apr 23, 2010)

Wood Doctor said:


> I still contend that adding more RPM and/or HP to a splitter will do nothing for it if the pump is already running at rated capacity. However, you will likely waste more fuel.



A pump's "rated capacity" is based on a certain RPM. For example, the Haldex-Barnes 28gpm 2 stage is rated for 28gpm in first stage at 3600rpm. Running under 3600 decreases the pump's gpm proportionally. Running above the rated RPM will increase capacity beyond the ratings, at the risk of pump damage.

HP requirements are a factor of pressure and gpm. Increasing either requires an increase in HP.


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## ACFerguson (Apr 23, 2012)

*New Splitter...Deep Thoughts...*

I'm about to embark on the foolish journey of building a log splitter. I've read a number of forums and watched a ton of youtube videos of many DIY splitters. I have some ideas from all of this and of course, many more unresolved considerations in all this. I live in Ontario and have Maple, Oak, Birch, Cedar, and Pine on my property. I did have one 36" diameter walnut come down in a storm several years ago, but I've very few and I'm unlikely to cut them down. So, that's the type of wood species that I'll mostly be splitting.

I have a new Honda 11Hp engine. I also have an 8hp Briggs and Stratton engine.
I also have a kick off valve with the following features: 
- Detented return position allows hands-free operation while the cylinder is retracting and automatically shifts the spool to the neutral position at the end of the stroke 
- Type - 3-Position, 4-Way, Open Center 
- Max. Continuous Pressure - 3,265 PSI
- Max. Continuous Flow - 30 GPM
- Relief Valve Setting - 2,250 PSI
- Relief Valve Range - 1,000 to 3,265 PSI
- Inlet Port(s) - 3/4 ORBF
- Outlet Port(s) - 3/4 ORBF
- Work Ports - 1/2 ORBF

I have several tons of steel, but nothing large enough for the main "body" of the splitter yet.
I have hub assemblies and wheels

What I'd like to have as features on the splitter:
- Hydraulic log lift.
- Hydraulic (i.e., height adjustable) 6-way splitter wedge/knife (I was thinking that offsetting the knives would reduce the initial load on the cylinder if they were like this. Initial contact would be the vertical knife)
- Oil reservoir would be in the "axle"-like assembly
- double cutting to speed up the process

Having read previous posts, I know that I need to somehow reduce the flow to the hydraulics responsible for the log lift and the knife height adjustments and I'll need a two-spool valve to run these. But, I've no idea what's required to accomplish this.

I would like to be able to cut anything I put on the splitter. But, at the same time I would like to realize fast cycle times. I don't know if a 22gpm 2-stage pump or a 28gpm 2-stage pump would serve best here; or if the engine (8 or 11) is capable of running these pumps. Bigger pump even?

I was thinking that hose ID might prove to be a limiting factor in flow. But, this is compounded by the size of the fittings on the cylinders and pumps. So, I'm assuming that an ID the size of the smallest fitting in this chain will work just as well as a larger hose?

Once the cylinder size has been figured out and the pump too, how big would I need to make the oil reservoir?

I've read to make the "table" height as high as your knuckles when you make a fist and let it hang down. Is this correct?

I've watched some DIY videos and the units are very unstable as I can see that their stance isn't wide enough. How wide should the wheels be apart to provide adequate stability?

I have pretty solid welding skills. I've built about 50 trailers from small 4x5 units to large 8'-6" x 24' units. As well as large stands up to 10' tall for commercial equipment. So, I've no worries about the physical construction and welding of this project at all. It's all of the other stuff that I know very little about, even after all the reading I've done online. I certainly know much more than when I began this and this forum has been by far the best one I've run across.

I looking for any advice on all of these thoughts and ideas. If I'm dreaming in technicolor, please tell me so! I'm willing to modify my ideas to fit reality if they're not there.

Thanks and looking forward to your feedback on this.

Tony

Ontario, Canada


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