# Brush cutter blades



## sir1 (Apr 16, 2016)

Can someone shed some light on the differences between regular steel blades for brush cutters? 
I have all the way from 3 tooth, to 4 etc tooth, to chisel tooth (like a saw blade), scratcher tooth (lots of bigger and smaller). Does the design vary depending on conditions like dry vs wet?

The only blade I have never tried is usually called the beaver blade. Basically a chainsaw chain around a disk. These seem the best choice. 
How does the chain come on/off these? Is there a chain tensioner or does it slip sometimes?
Does blades size depend on brush cutter ccs?
Thanks


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## sir1 (Apr 16, 2016)

Does anyone use shin guards with brush cutting? Or just saw chaps?


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## alderman (Apr 16, 2016)

When I had a lot of saplings and small trees to take down I did most of my cutting with an 80 tooth steel blade. Once I got rid of all of the woody material I do most of it with a .105 string head. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## kirko (Apr 16, 2016)

Hey Sir1
Plenty of different blades out there for plenty of different tasks,,Im always brushcutting and clearing and I have narrowed it down to a few thus far.
Airecut or brush knife for thick grasses when nylon just don't cut it,, carbide tipped circular saw blade for saplings,, Shredder blade for dense woody weeds.
I generally use high powered clearing saws with no guard and a long pair of pants work just fine for me. oh don't forget your face mask and sunnies and you will be fine.
Cheers Kirko


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## Franny K (Apr 16, 2016)

The four blade ones are generally for grass.
The chainsaw tooth ones (I am not going to say all of them) the cutters are riveted to the disc instead of being one side of a tie strap assembly on a chain.
With the three prong blades I wear gloves of course they are for bike handle devices, the danger is on the second time cutting it lower a chunk can hit the hand. Can not recall getting sore ankles but sure have had hand hits.
Probably the best one for say 3/4 inch and above is a disc with about 24 teeth that are set to the sides and sharpened with a round chainsaw file. I use the big ones 12 inch for the 3 prong the other ones are a little smaller. There is a whole smaller size of them that is more commonly stocked at retail places. Cutter size in cc, shaft size in mm, bearing size in the angle drive, etc. Did I mention bike handle and harness type and then if you get into real thick stuff an anvil of sorts that is an accessory listed in the manual.

Fran


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## 7sleeper (Apr 17, 2016)

The only blade type not mentioned sofar is the mulcher blade. They exist with two or more blades with the end bent down which point to the ground. They require a straight schaft, minimum 40cc engine and are absolutely devastating! If you use one I HIGHLY recomend a forest helmet with full face shield and tough pants or some even use a welding apron. Look like this







the effect is like this.



7


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## timbercare366 (Apr 17, 2016)

I like the mulching blade in particular, I've used many different types of blades but this one is more productive. Where I live its called a kudzu blade we actually have a kudzu crew in my town that contract and they use that blade on their equipment. For contract clearing jobs I've had in the past I used that blade for the heavy grasses, saplings and general and I would go back over with my weedeater with 105


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 17, 2016)

I like the airecut but you can't get right down to the dirt with it like it seems you can with the shredder blade. I haven't used a shredder though.


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## svk (Apr 17, 2016)

If you are cutting woody brush or small trees the Beaver blade is the best out there when kept sharp. I have a standard blade on mine (similar to a multi use table saw blade) as I don't use it enough to justify the higher cost of the beaver blade.


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## 7sleeper (Apr 17, 2016)

I will admit that I have no experience with a beaver blade but I cannot see how it will be better than a standard circular saw blade type. Of course the circular saw blade type should be sharpened correctly and the correct technique should be used. But faster and more productive!?!? I highly doubt it. 

7


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## svk (Apr 17, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> I will admit that I have no experience with a beaver blade but I cannot see how it will be better than a standard circular saw blade type. Of course the circular saw blade type should be sharpened correctly and the correct technique should be used. But faster and more productive!?!? I highly doubt it.
> 
> 7


I've cut side by side and trust me when I say there is a big difference.


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## 7sleeper (Apr 17, 2016)

svk said:


> I've cut side by side and trust me when I say there is a big difference.


I believe you absolutely! But when I see all videos on youtube allmost everyone is pinching the the circular saw blade, thus GREATLY reducing cutting speed! You can clearly hear it! And the chainsaw blade seems to be more forgiving in that aspect. So I am still a bit uncertain. Maybe one of these days I will have to buy one to try out.

This is kind of like the cutting/work speed I am used to with a circular saw blade. You hear about no pinching at all of the saw blade!



7


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## sir1 (Apr 17, 2016)

The shredder blades seems pretty productive. 

For thicker trees 2-3" a saw blade with many sharp teeth will be best right? Thats what we use and it seems to work good. They dull but can be sharpened. We carry spares. Just want to make sure I am not missing a blade style of the bigger stuff.

Also, I've seen beaver blades where the cutter are attached. But this seems not very practical. I think those are called tornado blades by a diff company.


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## sir1 (Apr 17, 2016)

For the beaver blade guys...how does the chain stay on? Is there a tensioner or screws?

What size and guage is the chain?
The one way I see the beaver blade being very effective is to buy a couple of blades and a length of chain and make your own chains. Swap in the field to keep them very sharp.
Strange I cant fine on google or the DR website any chain info or install/remove info


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## Sagetown (Apr 17, 2016)

sir1 said:


> Can someone shed some light on the differences between regular steel blades for brush cutters?
> I have all the way from 3 tooth, to 4 etc tooth, to chisel tooth (like a saw blade), scratcher tooth (lots of bigger and smaller). Does the design vary depending on conditions like dry vs wet?
> 
> The only blade I have never tried is usually called the beaver blade. Basically a chainsaw chain around a disk. These seem the best choice.
> ...


 This is the best I've found. Goes through sprouts, and saplings like a hot knife in butter. Just have to learn the right angle when it's time to re-sharpen. Also, don't stay in the cut of a large (4") sapling, the blade gets very hot. So, just ease into it in pulses. Smaller saplings fall quickly at passing.


This type is fair. Best used for tuff weeds.


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## sir1 (Apr 17, 2016)

Sagetown said:


> View attachment 498929
> This is the best I've found. Goes through sprouts, and saplings like a hot knife in butter. Just have to learn the right angle when it's time to re-sharpen. Also, don't stay in the cut of a large (4") sapling, the blade gets very hot. So, just ease into it in pulses. Smaller saplings fall quickly at passing.
> View attachment 498926
> 
> ...



Are the cutters replaceable? Seems wasteful if not replaceable. Ive several variants of similar blades.


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## sir1 (Apr 17, 2016)

This is about the only thing I've seen service related to beaver blade. 
"Beaver Blade Replacement Chain Puller" not sure how it works.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/bcp100.html


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## Sagetown (Apr 17, 2016)

sir1 said:


> Are the cutters replaceable? Seems wasteful if not replaceable. Ive several variants of similar blades.


THe teeth are riveted in just like on a saw chain, so I don't see why a saw shop couldn't replace broken teeth.
On the other hand, that STIHL blade needs close attention between uses, because fissures will appear near the edges and works their way down to the center of the blade. Best to stop using it at that point and time.


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## ncpete (Apr 17, 2016)

sir1 said:


> Does anyone use shin guards with brush cutting? Or just saw chaps?


I use chaps, because invariably when doing this, I also have the saws nearby to go after bigger things, also because the stuff really flies off the brush cutter.


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## Sagetown (Apr 17, 2016)

ncpete said:


> I use chaps, because invariably when doing this, I also have the saws nearby to go after bigger things, also because the stuff really flies off the brush cutter.


I don't always use chaps for brush cutting. But when I do, I use light weight Coon Hunting Chaps with zip up legs ,$19.95 last pair i bought. Just use them to keep the briars from sticking my legs, and keeps the grass and weeds off my pants too.
With the blade I've only had particles and stuff fly off of it, and somehow it throws right at my face. Now a String Trimmer will throw rocks at your legs and that smarts.
These Chaps come from Nite Lite. They are great for brush and yard work. Slip on over your boots, and buckle on to your belt loops.


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## 7sleeper (Apr 17, 2016)

Particles and rocks are the easiest thing to your face, when snails or dog leftovers come to play we are in a totally different league... 



7


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## Sagetown (Apr 17, 2016)

Here's some underbrush I cleared yesterday. Had some pretty big saplings, lots of thick briars, rotted limbs, and bushes. Tractor was to big to get the brushhog in under the low hanging branches. Good job for the F250.


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## kirko (Apr 17, 2016)

Anyone tried one of these,, 
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
would be awesome in a 350mm version.


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## Sagetown (Apr 17, 2016)

kirko said:


> Anyone tried one of these,,
> http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
> would be awesome in a 350mm version.


I've got a couple of those, but they're still brand new in the bag.


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 17, 2016)

Those would be great to try. If you don't mind me asking, Sagetown, where did you get those Tri wing mulcher blades?

And has anyone here ever seen a Brush Destructor blade? It is intersting to say the least but a little pricy for my blood: http://brushdestructor.com/brushdestructor-home-page/blade-options-and-prices/


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## Franny K (Apr 17, 2016)

This is the one I was rating as best in post 5 at least best for my definition of brush that is larger than ideal for 3 prong blades. There are two thicknesses of 3 prong blades in the 12 inch size I have run across. The circular saw or table saw like blades in my opinion make a dust that is annoying to the throat. I also have not used the chainsaw tooth cutter on a disc variety but in actual face to face discussions they seem versatile.
With the size machine and size blade I use full rpm and a swipe is good for at least 1 1/2 inches per swat.

Diesel fuel brush hog flail mower that kind of thing as much as possible. Chain and pull out the roots. Maybe we could discuss whether the three prong blade beating up the brush stumps makes them less likely to make as many or as healthy sprouts compared to a smooth cut.


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## Sagetown (Apr 17, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> Those would be great to try. If you don't mind me asking, Sagetown, where did you get those Tri wing mulcher blades?
> 
> And has anyone here ever seen a Brush Destructor blade? It is intersting to say the least but a little pricy for my blood: http://brushdestructor.com/brushdestructor-home-page/blade-options-and-prices/


Howdy ANewSawyer: That would be ' 7Sleeper ' , I don't use 'em.


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## CR888 (Apr 17, 2016)

Anyone use the three swinging blades 'brush destructer' setup with replacable blades? I got one and its pretty good for woody berry brush etc.


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## kirko (Apr 17, 2016)

Hey CR888 ,

Have you used shredder/mulching blades,,if so how do you think the brushdestructor adds up as a mulching blade in comparison.
I clear lantana etc for a living and this vid put me off the brush destructor

An fs 550 with a 320mm shredder blade makes this bloke look silly.
All side ways cuts,,nothing up and down,,seems to hint at no shredding capabilities.


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## ncpete (Apr 17, 2016)

kirko said:


> Hey CR888 ,
> 
> Have you used shredder/mulching blades,,if so how do you think the brushdestructor adds up as a mulching blade in comparison.
> I clear lantana etc for a living and this vid put me off the brush destructor
> ...



the way that works, seems to be exactly what would serve my needs best. Hmmmm, how to get the wife over the cost.


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## 7sleeper (Apr 18, 2016)

kirko said:


> Anyone tried one of these,,
> http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
> would be awesome in a 350mm version.


They are very similar in effect to the version I mentionend above. The only difference is that the blades are NOT bent 90° but only 45°! The reason to do this as far as I understand is that the chances of hitting the ground with the bent down ends is reduced significantly! That is the reason I mentioned above that when using these type of mulcher blades you HAVE to have PRO equipement! Your gearing will NOT survive multiple ground hits with a hobby trimmer!!! When only mulching you can be happy if your gearing survives one season!!!


*CAUTION!!!*


ANewSawyer said:


> Those would be great to try. If you don't mind me asking, Sagetown, where did you get those Tri wing mulcher blades?
> And has anyone here ever seen a Brush Destructor blade? It is intersting to say the least but a little pricy for my blood: http://brushdestructor.com/brushdestructor-home-page/blade-options-and-prices/


ALL colapsable / foldable blades are FORBIDDEN in the german speaking parts of Europe! The reason is that that it has already happenend with other manufacturers that the "eyelets" cracked and the blade flew out!!! severely hurting inguring others! The mass of the attachment is quite high so something turning at around 7 - 10 thousand rpm sure has some energy stored ready to be releaced on the poor soul who comes in it's way!!! I would NEVER use them irrespective of what a company says! The same counts for the models with chains or other "cool" looking attachments! People and property have been severly injured and damaged with all "non solid" type attachments.


7


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## sawfun (Apr 18, 2016)

One word I have for those shredder blades is BLACKBERRIES. They are the perfect tool on an FS 250 R.


7sleeper said:


> The only blade type not mentioned sofar is the mulcher blade. They exist with two or more blades with the end bent down which point to the ground. They require a straight schaft, minimum 40cc engine and are absolutely devastating! If you use one I HIGHLY recomend a forest helmet with full face shield and tough pants or some even use a welding apron. Look like this
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 18, 2016)

There seems to be some confusion over my post. I was trying to ask about the Oregon Tri Wing bent mulcher blades. Sagetown, this is what I am asking about: http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx



As to the brush destructor, it looks like a toy to me. Albeit, a very dangerous toy. I have no interest in it, I just wanted opinions. A circular saw blade + some type of mulcher would be much cheaper than the brush destructor and a whole lot more useful. 

Oh, and SHREDDER BLADE FTW! That is one thing we can agree upon.


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## Franny K (Apr 18, 2016)

It is evident there is a cut out for some sort of locating key on this one : http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
Would that indicate what sort of device it is really intended for?


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## sawfun (Apr 18, 2016)

Those tri tip bent blades look great for mulching vines but not saplings bigger than 3/4".


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## 7sleeper (Apr 18, 2016)

Franny K said:


> ...Would that indicate what sort of device it is really intended for?


Intended for brushcutters, nothing else!



sawfun said:


> Those tri tip bent blades look great for mulching vines but not saplings bigger than 3/4".


With the double tip variant I have cut up to 1,5 inch with no problem whatsoever! I usually go top down because it is the fastest way to let a sapling "disappear"...  
But when you have multiple close together, just dropping them all and then mulching them away, a few passes right to left on the lying down sapplings, is equally fun... 

7


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## Sagetown (Apr 18, 2016)

kirko said:


> *Anyone tried one of these,, *
> http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
> would be awesome in a 350mm version.





7sleeper said:


> *They are very similar in effect to the version I mentionend above*. The only difference is that the blades are NOT bent 90° but only 45°! The reason to do this as far as I understand is that the chances of hitting the ground with the bent down ends is reduced significantly! That is the reason I mentioned above that when using these type of mulcher blades you HAVE to have PRO equipement! Your gearing will NOT survive multiple ground hits with a hobby trimmer!!! When only mulching you can be happy if your gearing survives one season!!!
> 
> 
> *CAUTION!!!*
> ...





ANewSawyer said:


> There seems to be some confusion over my post. I was trying to ask about the Oregon Tri Wing bent mulcher blades. *Sagetown, this is what I am asking about*: http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
> 
> 
> 
> ...





sawfun said:


> *Those tri tip bent blades look great for mulching vines *but not saplings bigger than 3/4".


 Hey; ANewSawyer: I'm with ya, but I know less than what sawfun, 7sleeper, and kirko is telling us.


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## CTYank (Apr 19, 2016)

Most all my blades are 10", even on my '70s 21 cc Echo.

3-lobed AMA blades for ~$10 work very well on up to ~1" woody stuff, can be "popped" into the tangle. Easy sharpening with flat file, or flip over for second set of edges. Edges are durable.

8-tooth with short knives at the periphery work well on being "popped" into woody stems up to ~3/4", and on any sort of grass/vines. They're pretty easy to sharpen with flat file, round file at the root of the cutter. 3- or 8-tooth blades preferable for weedwhacking except nylon string near walls & stuff.

80-tooth saw blades work well on wood up to ~4", if you feed them in gradually. Forget sharpening with file, and they dull pretty quickly.

40-tooth "renegade" blades with carbide teeth can be had from Amazon for ~$15 each. Cut aggressively, haven't finished with first yet.

RazorMax 9" chainsaw-cutter blade cuts pretty easily into saplings, sharpens with 3/16" 'round' file. Lots of testing coming up eventually.

What works for me: whack whatever possible with 3- or 8-tooth blades first; then go to 40-tooth carbide or 80-tooth steel for big stuff.

For pricing, Amazon has many blades that are more than competitive with the big brand names, IMO. Often way more.


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## Andyshine77 (Apr 19, 2016)

Franny K said:


>



I've used this blade for years and it will zip through a 2" tree with ease! and is easy to sharpen. Anything larger and the kerf isn't wide enough and it will start to bind a bit, I would say the chainsaw tooth type would work better anything larger.


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## Franny K (Apr 19, 2016)

Andyshine77 said:


> I've used this blade for years and it will zip through a 2" tree with ease! and is easy to sharpen. Anything larger and the kerf isn't wide enough and it will start to bind a bit, I would say the chainsaw tooth type would work better anything larger.


That is my thinking pretty much. The manual for the brush cutter for something larger than 2" has instructions of how to make cuts from both sides. Folks can use different things, at the present it seems just cutting high enough so that blade to work in one pass and then cutting real close with a small chainsaw while in kneeling position works best considering driving over/tripping hazard and damaging the blade as opposed to the chain when the view is better.


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## sir1 (Apr 19, 2016)

So this post was primarily for discussing the beaver blade. And a few blades mentioned I will try. However it seems most people here have not used the beaver blade. I spoke with a few dealers and sounds like the beaver blade is a PITA to sharpen. My original idea of having one blade with a bunch of chains will not work. The chains (not sure what type of chain it uses) are permanently attached. So to replace a chain you actually have to break it, then respin a rivet possibly a connecting bar. I will go look at one in person. But I don't think this will work as I had planned.

Why hasn't someone designed a round blade similar to a chainsaw bar that comes apart into two sections that a chain can slip on/off with ease...


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## 7sleeper (Apr 19, 2016)

Because it would be too easy and no one would make any money...

Further having two disks with the chain in between, I highly doubt that the chain would stay permanently but actually spin between the disks during use. And then you don't have a lot of margin for weight gain, because the max size motors are usually only 50cc. Not alot off uummppfff. 

7


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## ncpete (Apr 19, 2016)

sir1 said:


> So this post was primarily for discussing the beaver blade. And a few blades mentioned I will try. However it seems most people here have not used the beaver blade. I spoke with a few dealers and sounds like the beaver blade is a PITA to sharpen. My original idea of having one blade with a bunch of chains will not work. The chains (not sure what type of chain it uses) are permanently attached. So to replace a chain you actually have to break it, then respin a rivet possibly a connecting bar. I will go look at one in person. But I don't think this will work as I had planned.
> 
> Why hasn't someone designed a round blade similar to a chainsaw bar that comes apart into two sections that a chain can slip on/off with ease...


Because chain stretch would be a very bad thing on the spinning wheel?


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## sir1 (Apr 19, 2016)

Hard to describe the design I am thinking of in my head but essentially clamping the chain in between two disks would should eliminate chain slip. I don't think it wold stretch that much. Chain is rather short.


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## 7sleeper (Apr 20, 2016)

sir1 said:


> Hard to describe the design I am thinking of in my head but essentially clamping the chain in between two disks would should eliminate chain slip. I don't think it wold stretch that much. Chain is rather short.


Has already been done by a few manufacturers! As I menionend above ALL NON SOLID attachments are forbinden here because blades, chains, etc. HAVE broken and went flying away injuring people. 

If people would learn HOW to resharpen AND use the standard circular saw type that would eliminate a lot of the problems they are having...

7


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## kirko (Apr 20, 2016)

Hey sir1
In my opinion I would ditch the whole beaver blade concept, the only positive I see is that you can sharpen it like a chain saw.The real issue is that chainsaws are very powerful machines compared to the average brushcutter and brushcutters simlpy don t have the power to pull that chain through timber as a chainsaw would.Not to mention no dog teeth/spikes to help lock into the cut.The chisel tooth is the fastest and most efficient way to cut large saplings with a brushcutter/clearing saw but its sharpness/lifespan is short lived, although it can also be re sharpened.The scratcher tooth should be chucked in the bin.What you really want is a carbide tipped circular saw.If you keep this out of the rocks and dirt you can cut down a forrest or 2 on one blade.The down side is they don't cut as fast or efficiently as a sharp chisel tooth and they cant really be sharpened, on the up side they seem to last forever. But really , just flog em and when their done get a new one.They're not usually that expensive. I paid $55 aus for mine and am still happy using it 3 years later. Try one you wont be disappointed.
Here is a link to one,,
http://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-to...-63713/Circular-saw-blade-carbide-tipped.aspx
Hope this helps.


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 20, 2016)

Actually, I have wondered if you can sharpen the Carbide blades. Harbor Freight sells a circular saw sharpener: http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-circular-saw-blade-sharpener-96687.html

It comes with grinding wheels for steel and carbide from what I understand. I don't own one but have toy with getting one.


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## Franny K (Apr 20, 2016)

Sure I have sent carbide blades out to be sharpened, however the brush cutter blades I use need sharpening due to rocks, wire, fence post, dirt etc, not like an expensive blade for a motorized miter box. How many rocks and how hard or how deteriorated they are surely varies by location.

7sleeper has stated stuff to make me think of a 18 inch or so piece of chain flying off. Balance is pretty important on attachments for the type of device being discussed here.


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## wde_1978 (Apr 20, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> Has already been done by a few manufacturers! As I mentioned above ALL NON SOLID attachments are forbidden here because blades, chains, etc. HAVE broken and went flying away injuring people.
> 
> If people would learn HOW to resharpen AND use the standard circular saw type that would eliminate a lot of the problems they are having...
> 
> 7





My sister used something like that on a Stihl weed whacker to clear a small lot of bushes, says nothing else had any acceptable effect but that thing! 
I am considering to custom make one for my own purpose.


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## kirko (Apr 20, 2016)

I use this exact brogio on small saplings and woody weeds.I had to make a few mods to make it work for me.Firstly with the 4 chains you need a v8 to keep it spinning,, not even a fs 550 can spin it properly without it bogging down.
I quickly removed 2 chains and then reduced the original 7 links back to five as in the pic.I did lose the odd link from time to time and decided it would be best to change the chains for hardened steel ones instead.It is a great head when finally customized and I would compare it to using a 12mm nylon if such a thing existed. LOL
I did trial a couple of other cheaper versions of the brogio,, they used only 2 chains but I found it was not possible to replace the chains.With the brogio the chains are removed simply by undoing the allan key screws.


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## kirko (Apr 20, 2016)

Hey anewsawyer,
The stihl sales man told me the carbide blades could be re sharpened but that it required a special machine,, something to do with diamonds if I remember correctly.
Dunno much else,, if you do work out how to sharpen em you could be onto something.


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 20, 2016)

I watched this video on it. The gentleman is sharpening a carbide tipped blade: 

Like I said, I think the sharpener comes with a grinding wheel for plain steel and a grinding wheel for the carbide.


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## kirko (Apr 21, 2016)

Hey gents,,

Here are a couple of links to what are in my opinion the best alround blade on the planet,, they just need lots of power, They seem to pull woody weeds in and turn them to dust or mulch.
The question is which came first ? the chicken or the egg ? 

http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...brushcutter-blades/showitem-KP-FGP410068.aspx

http://www.radmoretucker.co.uk/cate...ct/Stihl_Shredder_Blade_320mm_2t_40007133902/


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## Franny K (Apr 21, 2016)

kirko said:


> Hey gents,,
> 
> Here are a couple of links to what are in my opinion the best alround blade on the planet,, they just need lots of power, They seem to pull woody weeds in and turn them to dust or mulch.
> The question is which came first ? the chicken or the egg ?
> ...


Those well at least the Stihl one are for use on machines with more than 50cc and more than 3 hp. The one I have been recommending doesn't really need a lot of power if you can work off the energy in the spinning blade.

You use them with the ends pointing up? That is what I would think but pictures prior seem to have the ends pointing down. They probably would be great for going down between the rows of berry bushes as the description says. My "brush" is more autumn olive and wild rose. They probably would be good for making a little pathway to wrap a chain around the plant.


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## ANewSawyer (Apr 21, 2016)

Oddly enough I have only been able to find one source for shredder blades in the US: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oregon-Shin...s-12-90-329-/361370768478?hash=item542360545e

I really wonder why they are not available here. Maybe fear of injuries (read: lawsuit) by a kicked up stone?


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## Oregon_Rob (Jun 13, 2016)

kirko said:


> Hey gents,,
> 
> Here are a couple of links to what are in my opinion the best alround blade on the planet,, they just need lots of power, They seem to pull woody weeds in and turn them to dust or mulch.
> The question is which came first ? the chicken or the egg ?
> ...


These blades are phenomenal for berry vines and the like! Wish I had discovered those years ago. I took out a pretty substantial patch of black berry in about 15 min and it mulched down to almost nothing.

For saplings up to about 3” stuff the $15 chainsaw blades work great and are easy to sharpen.


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## Oregon_Rob (Jun 13, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> Oddly enough I have only been able to find one source for shredder blades in the US: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oregon-Shin...s-12-90-329-/361370768478?hash=item542360545e
> 
> I really wonder why they are not available here. Maybe fear of injuries (read: lawsuit) by a kicked up stone?


I’ve been hit a few times with parts coming off this type of blade. Feels like being hit with a paintball at close range and does leave a mark! Think my next purchase will be the full helmet and face shield. I feel like I have been lucky so far…


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 13, 2016)

Just recently purchased: http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=838


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## Oregon_Rob (Jun 13, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> Just recently purchased: http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=838


Have you used it much? Review?


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 13, 2016)

I have the forestry helmet already so I pulled the visor out of the box and put it on my forestry helmet. The visor is huge! Mush bigger than the mesh screen on the forestry helmet. When I look down, the plastic visor hits my chest before my head stops tilting. I have only used it once, and it did fine. I haven't tried to cut with my airecut and the new visor. That will be the test. I did see a lot of grass on the visor. Keeps poison ivy off my face.

I want to save the other helmet for when I am cutting trees. As far as I know it is the same forestry helmet I have used for the past 2+ years just in white. I know plastic helmets degrade so I no longer use the forestry helmet to protect from knocks. I am saving the construction helmet for that.


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## kirko (Jun 17, 2016)

Hey AnewSawyer,,

I've looked at using that style of helmet,,ie plastic visor on occasion,,ive not gone there yet as im concerned it would get plastered in organic material hampering my vision.Might also be a ***** to keep clean whilst on the job.
With my steel mesh visor on the stihl helmet i can just clean it up with a scrubbing brush.Although i am always amazed how i stihl manage to get crap in my eyes even with visor and sunnys.Keep us posted on it,,i do think as you mentioned it would be good when battling those annoying sappy,itchy plants
Cheers Kirko


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 17, 2016)

I don't think it would be a terrible problem, just wash it off with a bottle of water. But I might be wrong. I was surprised how much gunk I saw on there just from string. We shall see!


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## kirko (Jun 17, 2016)

Yeah , I'm probably a bit lazy with that sort of stuff,,It would end up in the car and the hot aussie sun would bake those nasties on.I imagine it would be ideal for clearing woody weeds though .Let me know if it fogs up 
Cheers Kirko


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## Oregon_Rob (Jun 17, 2016)

In my experience the strings throw the most vegetable matter. The blades just throw bigger chunks much harder.☇☇☇


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## Homelitexl903 (Jun 17, 2016)

sir1 said:


> So this post was primarily for discussing the beaver blade. And a few blades mentioned I will try. However it seems most people here have not used the beaver blade. I spoke with a few dealers and sounds like the beaver blade is a PITA to sharpen. My original idea of having one blade with a bunch of chains will not work. The chains (not sure what type of chain it uses) are permanently attached. So to replace a chain you actually have to break it, then respin a rivet possibly a connecting bar. I will go look at one in person. But I don't think this will work as I had planned.
> 
> Why hasn't someone designed a round blade similar to a chainsaw bar that comes apart into two sections that a chain can slip on/off with ease...


I think the beaver blade option looks awesome but I would really like someone that knows how to sharpen free hand to deal with it. I think most dealers and shops are designed and equipted for chainsaw chain off the bar. I bought a cheap chainsaw chain filing setup for hand filing with those set ups and gauges or whatever and made my chains slighty sharper then my dad showed me how its done with a quality file free hand and did decent...better than me but i still prefer the dealer to sharpen or new chain if needed. I cut stone with a special blade on a makita circular saw so I think wood blades should do fine on a brush cutter. Just drinkin beer and throwing out ideas.


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## Homelitexl903 (Jun 17, 2016)

kirko said:


> Hey AnewSawyer,,
> 
> I've looked at using that style of helmet,,ie plastic visor on occasion,,ive not gone there yet as im concerned it would get plastered in organic material hampering my vision.Might also be a ***** to keep clean whilst on the job.
> With my steel mesh visor on the stihl helmet i can just clean it up with a scrubbing brush.Although i am always amazed how i stihl manage to get crap in my eyes even with visor and sunnys.Keep us posted on it,,i do think as you mentioned it would be good when battling those annoying sappy,itchy plants
> Cheers Kirko


Eye proctection is a serious matter. I know first hand. I was cutting massive vines that were strangling nice trees and stopped to let my saw cool down as well as myself and took off goggles and looked up to twist off cut vine and got a vine seed and bark in one of my eyes and tried to deal with it myself for a week because i didnt have insurance and ended up at the E.R. Then eye doctor. I now have a slighty lazy eyelid when im tired and less than perfect vision in that eye. Doctors can replace hearts or organs but not eyes or brains. I always use tight fiting goggles with shatter proof lenses like Wiley X now. Thats what my father was given when fighting in Iraq to help protect from anything from sandstorms to explosives. Also paintball products work well when brushcutting. The face protection with neck protector and anti fog spray work.


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 17, 2016)

Kirko, it just occurred to me that the stuff I left stuck on will be dried next time I pull it out. Oops! Note to self: Clean after each usage! BTW, this is specially treated to be anti-fog and is shatter resistant according to the protector films it ships in. I wear a particulate mask but I might try it without to see if my breath causes fogging. I hope the visor stands up to the chunks thrown by a blade. I have set the mesh vibrating quite a bit with some of the hits I took. Also, I mention it being quite a bit larger than the mesh. I am hoping it stops that annoying habit the Airecut has of hitting me in the throat, hard, with chunks of stuff... BTW, I am still wearing safety glasses underneath so that if something makes it through the visor, my eyes are covered.




Homelitexl903 said:


> I think the beaver blade option looks awesome but I would really like someone that knows how to sharpen free hand to deal with it. I think most dealers and shops are designed and equipted for chainsaw chain off the bar. I bought a cheap chainsaw chain filing setup for hand filing with those set ups and gauges or whatever and made my chains slighty sharper then my dad showed me how its done with a quality file free hand and did decent...better than me but i still prefer the dealer to sharpen or new chain if needed. I cut stone with a special blade on a makita circular saw so I think* wood blades should do fine on a brush cutter*. Just drinkin beer and throwing out ideas.



Bold my emphasis. You don't mean regular skil saw blades on a weed eater do you? That is a no-no!!! Much to fast RPMS and Skil saw blades aren't designed to take the impacts that a brushcutter saw blade are.

Off topic: I used to wonder what the metal limit stops (blade guard) that most companies sold for use with weedeaters are for. I dawned on my the other day that a limit stop would keep you from taking a saw blade tooth to the leg.


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## Homelitexl903 (Jun 17, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> Kirko, it just occurred to me that the stuff I left stuck on will be dried next time I pull it out. Oops! Note to self: Clean after each usage! BTW, this is specially treated to be anti-fog and is shatter resistant according to the protector films it ships in. I wear a particulate mask but I might try it without to see if my breath causes fogging. I hope the visor stands up to the chunks thrown by a blade. I have set the mesh vibrating quite a bit with some of the hits I took. Also, I mention it being quite a bit larger than the mesh. I am hoping it stops that annoying habit the Airecut has of hitting me in the throat, hard, with chunks of stuff... BTW, I am still wearing safety glasses underneath so that if something makes it through the visor, my eyes are covered.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I meant the brush cutter blades that resemble curcular saw blades. And I wear shin gaurds because I also doubt the thin cheap plastic gaurds can stop flying metal shards.


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## 7sleeper (Jun 18, 2016)

Oregon_Rob said:


> In my experience the strings throw the most vegetable matter. The blades just throw bigger chunks much harder.☇☇☇


You haven't used a mulcher blade on the brushcutter yet! That is just in another league at being bombarded. 

7


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## Homeowner (Jun 18, 2016)

Try cutting rhubarb with 3-tooth blade, that is equivalent of ectoplasm (Ghostbusters movie thing), loads of gooey stuff all of sudden covers you.


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## 7sleeper (Jun 18, 2016)

Wait till you hit some snails or dog leftovers.... 

7


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## Homeowner (Jun 18, 2016)

7sleeper said:


> Wait till you hit some snails or dog leftovers....
> 
> 7



Good thing I don't have such here, some snails sure, but only about 2cm long ones, not those big ones that you at southern lands have. 

No dogs either in my tiny forest or yard. 

Wire mesh visor seems to stop quite well most of the stuff, but some dry dirt / stones seem to go past visor and eye glasses sometimes, so I have considered wearing skiing goggles in addition to visor.


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 25, 2016)

Gave the visor a good test today. It passed with flying colors except I forgot to clean it again. Well, the stuff came right off last time. I can't get used to how much more I can see through the visor vs the mesh. The mesh blocks no small amount of light.


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## Homeowner (Jun 25, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> Gave the visor a good test today. It passed with flying colors except I forgot to clean it again. Well, the stuff came right off last time. I can't get used to how much more I can see through the visor vs the mesh. The mesh blocks no small amount of light.



Husky claims 30% loss of light and for their UltraVision visors 20% light loss, so it is quite a bit indeed:
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/visual-protection/ultravision-safety-visor/574613501/

Haven't seen comparison of different brand visors which would block least amount of light?


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 25, 2016)

It isn't just light. The visor is super clear so much so that I don't feel like I have it on. Homeowner, you would have died today. It is over 90 degrees here today. I was wearing boots, jeans, t-shirt, one of those spray painters suits with A headpiece. I cut the booties off. Then Husky helmet, safety glasses and particulate mask. I was sweating profusely in the shade without the safety gear. I wasn't actually sure that I would be able to work today. I managed to get in about an hour and I was done. My shirt felt like it weighed a couple of pounds extra.

Speaking of safety gear, I do think some shin protectors would be a good idea. I had a circular saw blade lose a tooth on my miter saw and it took a chunk out of the thin metal guard.

Just so this is on topic: One of our fine members here, @chuckwood , pointed me in the direction of a US domestic source for true shredder blades: http://championcutter.com/blades.html I bought mine off Ebay but I want to contact the company about trying there three tooth version.


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## Homeowner (Jun 26, 2016)

ANewSawyer said:


> It isn't just light. The visor is super clear so much so that I don't feel like I have it on. Homeowner, you would have died today. It is over 90 degrees here today. I was wearing boots, jeans, t-shirt, one of those spray painters suits with A headpiece. I cut the booties off. Then Husky helmet, safety glasses and particulate mask. I was sweating profusely in the shade without the safety gear. I wasn't actually sure that I would be able to work today. I managed to get in about an hour and I was done. My shirt felt like it weighed a couple of pounds extra.
> 
> Speaking of safety gear, I do think some shin protectors would be a good idea. I had a circular saw blade lose a tooth on my miter saw and it took a chunk out of the thin metal guard.
> 
> Just so this is on topic: One of our fine members here, @chuckwood , pointed me in the direction of a US domestic source for true shredder blades: http://championcutter.com/blades.html I bought mine off Ebay but I want to contact the company about trying there three tooth version.



I think that those clear visors block only 1-2% of light at most, so it is huge improvement over mesh visor. 

We had yesterday over 80 degrees and I slept most of the day indoors, only dared to go outdoors at night when it was 60 degrees, can't imagine how anyone could do anything at 90 degrees, sweat pools into eyes at those temps without doing anything! 


My cheap trimmer came with set of blades, one was triangular one, it lasted few minutes when one of 3 blades turned 90 degrees pointing toward the sky, ate trough thin metal guard quite well.

Those blades were made from old car fenders, or at least felt like such when I bended it straight by hand. 
Proper three tooth versions are probably much thicker, so that hitting bit thicker brush is not going to bend them?

Good thing that I'm still bleeding, might be cooler weather when this bleeding stops and then might get one of those better three tooth blades for weeding and light brush cutting.


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## 7sleeper (Jun 26, 2016)

Normal thickness starts at 3mm. If I remember correctly my japanese versions were out of sks 5 steel. 

7


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