# Bogs with Throttle, Revs with Choke??



## DeckSetter (Sep 25, 2012)

I bought a Homelite "Pro" 46cc (UT10519) for cheap at a sale recently, trying to get it to run right. 

I've never adjusted a carb before (and yes I have searched!) and can't figure this out. 

I can get it to start and idle high. If I try to give it any throttle at all, it bogs out and dies. If I pull the choke, it will rev up. I have tried the H screw everywhere from all the way in to 5 full turns out and it still bogs and dies, tried the L screw lots of places too.


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## o8f150 (Sep 25, 2012)

fuel lines,, filter and carb kit,, make sure you clean everything out good in the carb,, the one thing to really look at is the screen inside the carb,, doing this is a given on those


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## GVS (Sep 25, 2012)

DeckSetter said:


> I bought a Homelite "Pro" 46cc (UT10519) for cheap at a sale recently, trying to get it to run right.
> 
> I've never adjusted a carb before (and yes I have searched!) and can't figure this out.
> 
> I can get it to start and idle high. If I try to give it any throttle at all, it bogs out and dies. If I pull the choke, it will rev up. I have tried the H screw everywhere from all the way in to 5 full turns out and it still bogs and dies, tried the L screw lots of places too.




Is the exhaust clear?


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## DeckSetter (Sep 25, 2012)

GVS said:


> Is the exhaust clear?



I haven't taken it apart, but I think so. The saw had a build date of late 09 and looks barely used. Also it will rev up by pulling the choke sometimes, just not when you use the throttle.

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## TK (Sep 25, 2012)

How much did you pay for it? The new homelite chainsaws retail brand new for under a hundred bucks. Some as low as $70 in places - and that's not on sale. They're just not worth repair, and the performance when they do run is comparable to a handsaw.


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## D&B Mack (Sep 26, 2012)

What happens when you close the H needle?


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## DeckSetter (Sep 26, 2012)

TK said:


> How much did you pay for it? The new homelite chainsaws retail brand new for under a hundred bucks. Some as low as $70 in places - and that's not on sale. They're just not worth repair, and the performance when they do run is comparable to a handsaw.



I only paid $40 for it, but that's irrelevant.

It's less than 3 years old according to the build date, looks like they ran it till the chain dulled and never used it again. So I have 40 bucks in a 46cc saw with a near new bar and chain that will fit on my echo cs4600 if I blow it up. I know it's not a high dollar saw, but it is a saw and i want it to function like one. I know it can't be that big a deal to fix, just trying to figure out how to make it rev.



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## DeckSetter (Sep 26, 2012)

D&B Mack said:


> What happens when you close the H needle?



Still bogs out and dies with any throttle.

I will mess with out some more when I get home from work.

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## hangfirew8 (Sep 26, 2012)

DeckSetter said:


> Still bogs out and dies with any throttle.
> 
> I will mess with out some more when I get home from work.



Hey DeckSetter,

You and I are on similar journeys, I have a 46cc HP ZR10522, which is the 20" refurb version (UT10522 for non-refurb), toolless adjustment version of your saw. Most parts are the same. I have never gotten more than 3 minutes of work out of it at a time. This saw is my bane. They are the epitome of cheap chinese manufacture, a far cry from the great old all-metal Homelites of all.

Your description describes a classic vacuum leak, causing the saw to run lean. Saws with the L jet set lean often idle fast but immediately die when given throttle. However if the H jet is rich enough they can run kind-of sort-of OK if slowly brought up to RPM. If adjusting the jets doesn't really fix it, it's not just a carb adjustment issue, there's a vacuum leak, causing the saw to get more air then it should.

The choke compensates for the lean condition by richening the air/fuel mixture, but it is hard to rev up and make power when the air intake is restricted by the choke.

My saw has adjustable jets that require a special socket screwdriver to adjust. They can be removed by screwing them all the way out, and a straight screwdriver slot cut in them with a dremel cut-off wheel. While you do that, shoot some carb cleaner through the holes and see if it comes out of the carb under the air filter (remove the air filter to see).

In addition my HP has a problem that when the top cover is screwed on, the recoil starter binds. I haven't had the time to sort this out yet. On top of that compression feels very high, and I destroyed one recoil starter plastic cog by pulling on it a few hundred times (it was a hard starter before it decided not to start at all).

TK is partially correct in that these are very inexpensive saws, however it is the 33cc version that goes for as little as $70-some. The 46cc versions (now sold as Ryobi) go for a lot more. I got the best store price I've seen for a 46cc at $119.99 for the refurb I got at Factory Tools Outlet (where Home Depot tools go do die). I would never defend this saw's performance because of all the problems I have had out of it, but I have to contradict the handsaw comment. When I could get the thing to run, it cut wood great. A new, sharp 20LPX chain doesn't hurt.

Because of the low price of the saw and the high price of OEM parts, the only realistic alternative for parts (besides here at AS) is eBay. Fortunately these things show up there all the time, whole and in parts, usually not running. I also got a new carb rebuild kit there cheap, $11-something delivered. I haven't installed it yet because of recoil starter issues.

My take on these saws is the recoil starter was made for the 33cc version and can't handle 46cc very well. When pull starting it, be very careful to take the slack out of the rope and engage the recoil starter pawls before pulling hard. If you don't you'll strip the plastic cog in the middle.

Keep us informed. I'm hoping to learn from you what it takes to get and keep this saw running. Only lack of free time has kept me from parting it out on eBay. :msp_mad:

HF


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## TK (Sep 26, 2012)

It seems like they lose compression during the "break-in" period and then they are "broken" is the most common thing I see with them. My comment wasn't the "it's not a prosaw so chuck it type" - just that its not worth it because it probably won't get back to a good running status. You may be just chasing a ghost with this saw. They are not forgiving with adjustments, they have to be set nearly perfect in order to get anything out of them in a manner that will last any length of time. 

If it looks like it got hot with a full chain, they break down real fast due to the lack of quality control and materials in the engines internals. Hence the reason they're very inexpensive. 

Don't mean to pee in anyone's Cheerios but it really is a disposable saw.


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## hangfirew8 (Sep 26, 2012)

TK said:


> It seems like they lose compression during the "break-in" period and then they are "broken" is the most common thing I see with them. My comment wasn't the "it's not a prosaw so chuck it type" - just that its not worth it because it probably won't get back to a good running status. You may be just chasing a ghost with this saw. They are not forgiving with adjustments, they have to be set nearly perfect in order to get anything out of them in a manner that will last any length of time.
> 
> If it looks like it got hot with a full chain, they break down real fast due to the lack of quality control and materials in the engines internals. Hence the reason they're very inexpensive.
> 
> Don't mean to pee in anyone's Cheerios but it really is a disposable saw.



No problem, TK, I'm not impressed by anything with this saw either. And the low cost makes it challenging to fix, and keep the cost below buying new. I try not to slam any brand or model saw because someone will pop up to defend it, and I try to avoid peeing matches.

It just bothers me to have a saw around that doesn't work. If I can't fix it, I'll give it to someone who needs the parts, or part it out...

HF


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## DeckSetter (Sep 26, 2012)

TK said:


> It seems like they lose compression during the "break-in" period and then they are "broken" is the most common thing I see with them. My comment wasn't the "it's not a prosaw so chuck it type" - just that its not worth it because it probably won't get back to a good running status. You may be just chasing a ghost with this saw. They are not forgiving with adjustments, they have to be set nearly perfect in order to get anything out of them in a manner that will last any length of time.
> 
> If it looks like it got hot with a full chain, they break down real fast due to the lack of quality control and materials in the engines internals. Hence the reason they're very inexpensive.
> 
> Don't mean to pee in anyone's Cheerios but it really is a disposable saw.



That makes sense, thanks for the clarification. 

I basically bought it because it was $40 and I got it to fire in a couple pulls. I knew it had problems, figured it wouldn't take much and I'd have another saw for a backup and so I don't have to use my eco for everything. If it's not fixable I'll scrap it. Sure would like to make it run though.

Mine also has the toolless bar adjustment. It doesn't seem to stay put very well.

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## TK (Sep 26, 2012)

hangfirew8 said:


> No problem, TK, I'm not impressed by anything with this saw either. And the low cost makes it challenging to fix, and keep the cost below buying new. I try not to slam any brand or model saw because someone will pop up to defend it, and I try to avoid peeing matches.
> 
> It just bothers me to have a saw around that doesn't work. If I can't fix it, I'll give it to someone who needs the parts, or part it out...
> 
> HF





DeckSetter said:


> That makes sense, thanks for the clarification.
> 
> I basically bought it because it was $40 and I got it to fire in a couple pulls. I knew it had problems, figured it wouldn't take much and I'd have another saw for a backup and so I don't have to use my eco for everything. If it's not fixable I'll scrap it. Sure would like to make it run though.
> 
> ...



It's all good guys just wanted you to understand my post. I definitely can appreciate wanting to make something work simply because it doesn't. But through experience (repeated experience because I'm stubborn lol) I learned that these saws in particular are 99% of the time non-repairable. Part of me used to hope I'd find that 1%er...... Haven't yet!


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## DeckSetter (Sep 26, 2012)

Played with it a little more tonight, I think whoever suggested vacuum leak was probably right. I finally got it to rev a LITTLE bit after I had the L and H screws both out 7 or 8 full turns.

I'm also wondering if one of the fuel lines is leaking, because the primer bulb doesn't refill itself quickly. You have to coax it back out after you push it in. That may also just be a result of cheap primer bulb materials drying out because of the ethanol in the gas. I didn't crack it open and check fuel lines, it was too hot after I ran it a bit. Maybe tomorrow......


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## Termite (Sep 26, 2012)

o8f150 said:


> fuel lines,, filter and carb kit,, make sure you clean everything out good in the carb,, the one thing to really look at is the screen inside the carb,, doing this is a given on those



08f150 has this covered. Take his advice. Don't forget the screen.


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## TK (Sep 26, 2012)

Check compression before a penny's worth of parts is invested in this saw.


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## Rokon (Oct 8, 2012)

I know this thread is a few weeks old, but thought I would add something for future searchers:

I have several 45cc and 46cc versions of this saw. Carbs are usually a prime spot for problems with these. Mainly out of adjustment.
The other problem I've found, especially with the 46's, is the muffler/cat being plugged or too restrictive. This will impede the high end rpm's.
Also, if the saw has been shelved for some time, due to one of the above problems, dump the gas! 

Today's repair on a 46 showed 'cloudy' gas (water in fuel). Dumped it, cleaned the carb and now it runs. However the muffler is holding back the top end. MM coming tomorrow. 

Over all this is not a bad saw for cheap. Muff modded+tune+sharp chain = a good little saw. :msp_smile:


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## Rogan (Oct 18, 2012)

Hi all. My first post, but I've been using the search function 

So, I also have a HP 46cc w/20". I've owned and used this saw for 4 years now, and have only had very minor issues with the power head (usually, just hard-starting.)
I cut about 2-3 cords of hardwood (red oak, mostly) every fall with it, and honestly, I've not been good about storage with it (fuel-wise)..

It has always given me a fit, however, with straight cuts; it tends to curve away from the cut-line, away from the saw. \ I've tried filing the bar, sharpening one side of the chain, replacing both chain and bar. It does not appear to be bent, and looks to be mounting flush.


This past weekend, it put me in a pickle. I did my pre-cut maintenance and checks to it (sharpening, cleaning filter, fuel, oil, cleaning, etc.), loaded it up and headed to the woods. About 12-14 cuts in to a 16" red oak, and it started to act funny. It'll die every time I let off the throttle, and if it does decide to stay idling, it's really boggy on trigger. I was going to attempt to adjust the carb some, but #1) I don't have a tach. #2) the screws are some sort of male allen-headed deals, to which I've not a tool in my box to fit this. So, after about 20 minutes in the woods, I got to go home empty-handed. :frown:

Other than this one time, I've not had issues, and I've cut some big wood with it.


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