# Question about cant hooks



## BobL (Aug 26, 2007)

Am thinking of making myself a cant hook.

Should the end of the hook extend beyond the end of the straight shaft or not?

If necessary I guess I could make it adjustable


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## clearance (Aug 26, 2007)

no


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## joesawer (Aug 26, 2007)

The hook point should be very close to the toe. My dad has messed with sawmills for years. When I was a kid he tried making some cant hooks. To make a long story short, you can by one cheaper than you can make one.


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## Matildasmate (Aug 26, 2007)

*Logrite cant hook*

Hi Bob I got a great cant hook from a mob called Logrite in USA a 4 footer mostly made of aluminum http://store.logrite.com/


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## oldsaw (Aug 26, 2007)

Another vote for LogRite. You won't find a better one. 

Mark


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## clearance (Aug 26, 2007)

Peaveys are cool as well, pretty hard to misplace, unlike a canthook.


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## woodshop (Aug 26, 2007)

joesawer said:


> The hook point should be very close to the toe. My dad has messed with sawmills for years. When I was a kid he tried making some cant hooks. To make a long story short, you can by one cheaper than you can make one.



I second this... I know they are pricey, but there is a reason. Something like that can't be made cheap or it becomes dangerous. Maybe you have lots of time as well as access to a forge/blacksmith shop/machine shop... then go for it. Just don't under-engineer it when it comes to materials. A broken handle at the wrong time or a hook slipping out of the log could give you a busted ankle when that big log comes back at ya. I have two... one I got from Baileys (one of our sponsors) and the other I picked up at a flea market for couple bucks. It's an antique but works well. It has a solid stout handle made out of American Chestnut and I like using it better than the new one. 

That said, after seeing you build that mill, I have no doubt that if you wanted to take the time, you probably could make a good one.


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## TNMIKE (Aug 26, 2007)

*You can make em*

Ive made several cant hooks and peaveys. But..Ive got a blacksmith shop and machine shop here at the house. I would say the average joe would be well advised to buy one. If you dont want a new one frequent flea markets and farm shows. Ive bought really nice ones for 30 dollars.


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## BobL (Aug 26, 2007)

Thanks guys. 
Your advice is much appreciated but you guys should realize I don't under-engineer anything I make. 
Cost (as in hard $$ forked out) depends on what materials I already have and what I can scavenge. If this works out more than the cost of the item I will buy the item.
I do have access to some nice manufacturing facilities as in the machine shop at work and BILs shop. Of course if I take my time into account I usually end up working for $5 an hour but as I really like making tools and gizmos that's just the my cost of my hobby.

Cheers


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## Sawyer Rob (Aug 26, 2007)

> Another vote for LogRite. You won't find a better one.



Better in what way??? I have an 48" aluminum LogRite and i don't use it much at all.... Why? because the handle is too fat to be comfortable. I like my 50" wood handled canthook (that i bought used at a farm auction) much better as it's tapered toward the end and MUCH more comfortable to use... It's the one used 99.9% of the time around here...

The LogRite cost me something like $100.00 and i saw wood handled canthooks at a Husky dealer for 60 something.... The Aluminum may be stronger, but i'd take the wood handled one every time! (if i'm the one who has to use it) My wood one has been more than strong enough for me and i use it for prying and everything else around the mill!

Rob


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## 046 (Aug 26, 2007)

searched up and down locally for a good cant hook with no luck. 
no one stocks em in Tulsa. not much logging around here...

didn't want to mail order because you can't use it first. shipping is also a killer. 

finally found one at an old antique store for $15. wood need replacing, but metal is solid. 
filed hook to sharp point and replaced pivot bolt. 

since no one stocks handles the correct size. I'll be making a handle, but that's doable.
she looks good for many more years.


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## oldsaw (Aug 26, 2007)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Better in what way??? I have an 48" aluminum LogRite and i don't use it much at all.... Why? because the handle is too fat to be comfortable. I like my 50" wood handled canthook (that i bought used at a farm auction) much better as it's tapered toward the end and MUCH more comfortable to use... It's the one used 99.9% of the time around here...
> 
> The LogRite cost me something like $100.00 and i saw wood handled canthooks at a Husky dealer for 60 something.... The Aluminum may be stronger, but i'd take the wood handled one every time! (if i'm the one who has to use it) My wood one has been more than strong enough for me and i use it for prying and everything else around the mill!
> 
> Rob



Wow, I love mine. I have a 60" with a standard 48" wood one. The LogRite bites better, and the extra foot of leverage comes in handy more often than not. I wouldn't trust a wood handle with what I've done with the LogRite. I don't find the handle to be too fat at all. My old one has been relegated to "back-up" status.

Mark


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Aug 27, 2007)

I bought a Logrite after I broke a wood handled cant hook and nearly had a log come off a mill on top of me. Call me gunshy but I don't like wood ones much anymore.


These look the same as the Logrites but are a bit cheaper.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial


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## 046 (Aug 27, 2007)

what about one of these felling levers with cant hook?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200342830_200342830


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## Sawyer Rob (Aug 27, 2007)

> Wow, I love mine. I have a 60" with a standard 48" wood one. The LogRite bites better, and the extra foot of leverage comes in handy more often than not. I wouldn't trust a wood handle with what I've done with the LogRite. I don't find the handle to be too fat at all. My old one has been relegated to "back-up" status.



There's no doubt that the LogRite does have a great hook, and it is a great canthook, but for me the handle is too fat and uncomfortable. I've never broken a handle on any canthook, but then again i save my back and use my tractor for severe duty on logs.

I kept reading how the LogRite was so much better than all the rest, and i wanted one really bad. When my buddy and i went to the 2007 sawmill expo a several months ago, i bought one. I asked my buddy (JP from the Norwood forum) if he was going to buy one too, and he said "they are too uncomfortable to use".... Dang, i didn't realize he was right untill i got home and used it some, i now wish i had not bought it... 

I have used all of my weight on my wood handle one (i'm well over 200 pounds) more than a few times and it's still tight and like new so i'm thinking for the average guy around the mill it would last just fine..... (and at least 30 bucks cheaper)

I'm not saying LogRite's aren't good, i'm saying NOT everyone is in love with them!

Rob


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## Rodney Sinclair (Aug 27, 2007)

Sawyer Rob said:


> I kept reading how the LogRite was so much better than all the rest, and i wanted one really bad.



This is called "being sold a bill of goods". The bad part is you bought it. Just like I have on a few things in my life. No way of knowin' how much money it has cost me through the years.
I agree with you on the part about saving my back too. Thats why I keep a backhoe, a 3600 Ford tractor and a Jeep with an 8000 Warn winch around. I also don't see why it should cost so much to build a cant hook. A scrap piece of metal and pipe and a cutting tourch should get the job done. Thats what I did years ago. Course it doesn't look like it was bought at Wall-Mart and it's a little heavy but it works.

Rodney


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## Judge (Aug 27, 2007)

*Cheap Canthook*

I found the hook and shackle on Ebay for $ 8.00 [no handle], the shackle fit an aluminum softball bat perfectly when cinched down. Since the bat handle is tapered, it works fine; plently stout enough for any log I'm going to put on my bandmill, and the price was right!


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## MJR (Aug 27, 2007)

I wouldn’t go through the work of making it adjustable. I use three cant hooks - a small one for when working on the mill (instead of a pulp hook), a 48” for most of the work, and a 60” when I do get a bigger log. If you are moving around a log that requires a 60” cant hook you real should have some heavy equipment near by. I think you should try to build it. Who knows, you may build a better mouse trap.


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## Austin1 (Aug 27, 2007)

046 said:


> what about one of these felling levers with cant hook?
> 
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200342830_200342830


I would like to try one of those, as the trees I am dealing with are not large. I was going to make one out of a pry bar but that will save me the effort .


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## Sawyer Rob (Aug 27, 2007)

I have 3 canthooks left to right they are, Norwood, bought used at a farm auction, and the LogRite...






Here's what the tops look like,






here's the bottoms,






I do NOT feel like i was cheated by LogRite, they have a good product it's just not to my likeing with such a fat handle... I think "if" you want the strongest canthook money can buy, it's the one to get! But, for me, the wood handled hooks are plenty strong, and will easily last me the rest of my life and feel much better in my hands... I just wish i had bought another wood handled canthook like i already have...

BTW, the hook on my long wood one works just as good as the high priced spread by LogRite.

Rob


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## BobL (Aug 27, 2007)

Thanks for posting the pics Rob. 

Cheers


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## dustytools (Aug 27, 2007)

BobL said:


> Thanks guys.
> Your advice is much appreciated but you guys should realize I don't under-engineer anything I make.
> Cost (as in hard $$ forked out) depends on what materials I already have and what I can scavenge. If this works out more than the cost of the item I will buy the item.
> I do have access to some nice manufacturing facilities as in the machine shop at work and BILs shop. Of course if I take my time into account I usually end up working for $5 an hour but as I really like making tools and gizmos that's just the my cost of my hobby.
> ...



Bob I have no doubts that you could make anything that you so choose to make. Your posts reveal your admiration for design and building. As has been said before using a tool or jig that one has built themself gives great satisfaction. I say go for it! BTW, as before we will expect pictures.


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## Matildasmate (Aug 29, 2007)

*Make your own*



dustytools said:


> Bob I have no doubts that you could make anything that you so choose to make. Your posts reveal your admiration for design and building. As has been said before using a tool or jig that one has built themself gives great satisfaction. I say go for it! BTW, as before we will expect pictures.



I agree with Dustytools , go for it BobL make your own , after seeing how you made your mill mate , top job.


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## BobL (Aug 29, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> I agree with Dustytools , go for it BobL make your own , after seeing how you made your mill mate , top job.



I tossed around a few idea with BIL this evening over a beer and we reckon we can do something for not much if we can scrounge the steel for the hook from somewhere. I need to do the rounds of the skips/dumpsters at work again when I have some free time. Could be a while though as have several other projects on the go to attend to.


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## aquan8tor (Aug 29, 2007)

I have the 60" logrite one as well. It isn't going to move a 30" log on uneven ground, but I've moved 24" x 10' sections of white oak without pulling any muscles.......I'm about 160 lbs, btw. Not exactly a weightlifter. 

I've seen this one at Northern Tool; looks a lot like the logrite brand, but a different color, and about half the price of the equivalent one. I'd have bought this one if I knew it was available.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200333231_200333231


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## 2dogs (Sep 16, 2007)

The biggest Logrite (78")is almost $200.00 with tax so for now at least I will stick to the wood models. We have a 60" Logrite that has a bent handle from moving redwood logs and a 48" (I think) Stihl. There are copies of the Logrite tools made in Red China that are painted the same shade of blue so be careful of what you buy.


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## Sprig (Sep 16, 2007)

Pee-Vees, hm, I love me el-cheapo with massive 5' handle for moving anything over 800lbs, does the job and does not break the bank. Have to agree it is much cheaper to buy one or find a head and replace the handle (ie make one), people break 'em and are too lazy to replace the handles, sure would like to find another 50's vintage one (nice steel). To the OP, yup, you want the end of the hook just above the point, this is what makes leverage work,

 & my useless 0.02$ worth for the wet afternoon (pizen rain right now, bah!)

Serge


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## Matildasmate (Sep 17, 2007)

*I like chinese*



2dogs said:


> The biggest Logrite (78")is almost $200.00 with tax so for now at least I will stick to the wood models. We have a 60" Logrite that has a bent handle from moving redwood logs and a 48" (I think) Stihl. There are copies of the Logrite tools made in Red China that are painted the same shade of blue so be careful of what you buy.



Hi 2dogs I have got a 48" Logrite . When I got mine , I got mine directly from logrite at the time , was rather expensive , close to $250au delivered to Aus , about $120us of that was freight , Logrite were great , they gave me a free 24" hookeroon , well worth the money. The 78" is $160 now directly from logrite . http://www.logrite.com/ I have used mine to roll 36" plus logs. I like chinese gear , they make some great gear . I got a chinese ute crane , bloody great , also got a chinese jolly grinder $90us an exact copy of the Oregon 511a from Northerntool usa , the Oregon is about $700au over here , me neighbor got an oregon cheap at $600au . stuff that . got heaps of other chinese stuff generators etc . No wonder all our company's are going broke eh. I also buy quite a bit of USA gear , even with freight , most of the time its still a quite a bit cheaper to buy. When I bought my Stihl MS660 it was $2400au before negotiating and $2000au after in Aus , same saw in USA $1013us even with freight exchange rates etc ,landed in Aus about $1300au. Kind Regards Manfred


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## 2dogs (Sep 18, 2007)

Hey Manfred. I don't know how $2400.00 AU translates into FRNs but it sounds expensive.

About those logs in the crane pic? Is the wood shrunk back from the bark or is than an illusion?


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## Matildasmate (Sep 18, 2007)

*FRNs*



2dogs said:


> Hey Manfred. I don't know how $2400.00 AU translates into FRNs but it sounds expensive.
> 
> About those logs in the crane pic? Is the wood shrunk back from the bark or is than an illusion?



Hi 2dogs Not sure what FRNs are , I assume thats Francs , anyway $2400au is equal to $2000.95us and $2374.62 swiss francs.Yeah it is real expensive , a roll of Stihl full chisel chain 3/8 x .063 is $570au locally now , I will be getting my next roll of chain , a roll of semi chisel , from Baileys a site sponsor next time , heaps cheaper. The shrinkage is an illusion , that photo was taken not long after I cut and loaded it , local forestry boys knocked it down with a bulldozer while clearing some pine trees , it was only down a few weeks when I got it , that photo is about twelve or more months old now , timber has a very low shrinkage , excellent timber to dry , has turned a dark chocolaty color now . I have included a shortcut to currency converter I use all the time and it is free to use . http://www.xe.com/ucc/ Regards Manfred


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## BobL (Oct 4, 2007)

For your amusement, here is my first go at making a cant hook.












The steel collars and protective sleeve are made from bits of 2" diameter water pipe. the hook was cut from a 1/2" slab of steel found inside an X-ray machine in the dumpster at work. As a result it is pretty heavy but as I said I did not want to under-engineer it.

Handle is cut from a piece of 2 x 4" piece of Western Australian karri, cut down to 2 x 3" and then tapered into rough shape on a Table Saw. Final shaping was with a HSS blade spokeshave and then a hand scraper - near the top the handle is just under 2" round. The shaping took a looong time, but made lots of shavings and dust, very theraputic even if karri is a PITA to work. Karri is a very high strength timber.

The most expensive material used was the $3 half can of spray paint, followed by $2 for the 1/2" tensile steel bolt and $1 for the karri. Don't ask me how long it took but I figure I was probably working for about $12 an hour! It can't have been too traumatic as I am making a smaller one, 48" long one for moving smaller logs, beams and slabs around.

Cheers!


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## martrix (Oct 4, 2007)

Nice one Bob.

Have you had a look to see how much you can buy one like that in Australia for?

Love to see a shot of it in action when you get to try it out.


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## BobL (Oct 4, 2007)

martrix said:


> Nice one Bob.
> 
> Have you had a look to see how much you can buy one like that in Australia for?
> 
> Love to see a shot of it in action when you get to try it out.



I've seen a 60" advertized for about AUS$190 on an Aussie website but I can't say I've seen anything quite this "chunky" anywhere so comparisons are hard to make. 

Cheers


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## Matildasmate (Oct 4, 2007)

*Top job Bob*

Looks great , top job Bob and you have an advantage over us yours probably glows in the dark mate . :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: Cheers MM


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## BobL (Oct 4, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> Looks great , top job Bob and you have an advantage over us yours probably glows in the dark mate . :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: Cheers MM



That big hook worries me and for anything that does that I want to where it is relative to me. I usually paint all my dangerous stuff the same highly visible "volcano orange".


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## Sprig (Oct 4, 2007)

Great lookin' job there Bob!  
(Wish we had something like that karri wood here, I'm getting tired of replacing hickory & ash handles, hm, maybe a chunk of oak will work better?)



Serge


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## BobL (Oct 4, 2007)

Thanks Serge. Karri is very strong and when dry has the same weight for weight strength as steel but it is not really the best wood for a tool handle. If it gets beat about, it resists outright breakage extremely well but can split and the splinters generated are quite nasty so after a while it's definitely a handle to use only with gloves, or back to the workshop for a rubdown and recoat. I was going to give it 3/4 coats of epoxy but its sort of an experiment at this stage so I only oiled it. I used Karri because it was the strongest wood I could get a reasonable size piece of for small $$.


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## Sprig (Oct 4, 2007)

YWC. Sounds like teak or mahogany (cedar for that matter) sliver-wise, all nasty infectious ones, have you thought about maybe doing a nice leather whipping on the upper part of the handle? That would take care of the splinters and also give a good grip. Still a sharp looking project mon!


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## BobL (Oct 4, 2007)

Sprig said:


> YWC. Sounds like teak or mahogany (cedar for that matter) sliver-wise, all nasty infectious ones, have you thought about maybe doing a nice leather whipping on the upper part of the handle? That would take care of the splinters and also give a good grip. Still a sharp looking project mon!



ahhhhh, leather whipping . . . . . nice one . . . . I like the sound of that! 

The handle probably needs an 1/8" taken off all round before putting the leather on as it is already a touch on the chunky side. I'll keep it mind maybe while I'm making the smaller one because I sense I will be using the smaller one a lot more that this big daddy.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Oct 4, 2007)

Nice!


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## Matildasmate (Oct 4, 2007)

*Cornuta yate*



BobL said:


> Thanks Serge. Karri is very strong and when dry has the same weight for weight strength as steel but it is not really the best wood for a tool handle. If it gets beat about is resists outright breakage extremely well but will split and the splinters generated are quite nasty so after a while it's definitely a handle to use only with gloves, or back to the workshop for a rubdown and recoat. I was going to give it 3/4 coats of epoxy but its sort of an experiment at this stage so I only oiled it. I used Karri because it was the strongest wood I could get a reasonable size piece of for small $$.



Hi Bob ......... If you can get your hands on some Cornuta yate , I call it concrete wood , hell it's hard and strong , only thing it's also heavy , make's Redgum look like Balsa , it's a native to your part of the country , when I say your part I mean Western Australia . Some bloke over a hundred years ago , put a small plantation in , about 10 -20 acre's , at a place called Robe in lower Southeast of South Australia . Makes exelent firewood , I slabbed some up pretty boring stuff , very plain . That bloke was ahead of his time eh! Cheers MM


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## Matildasmate (Oct 4, 2007)

BobL said:


> For your amusement, here is my first go at making a cant hook.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The Logrite has a safety feature built into it , to stop you crushing your fingers with the hook , on some other designs , if you hold the cant hook up , handle down , the hook come's back a crush's your finger's between the hook and handle , the Logrite has a pin behind the hook , in the hinge section , so the hook can't slap back against the handle . Cheers MM


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## Matildasmate (Oct 4, 2007)

*Radiation*

I was actually thinking of the radiation inthat peice of steel from the exray machine :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2: Cheers MM


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## Judge (Oct 4, 2007)

Great job, BobL! That looks superior to anything I've seen on the market.


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## ads47 (Oct 4, 2007)

*Mill Special*

If you don't like the thickness of Logrites you can get the Mill Specials up to 36in. If you call them you will most likely be able to get it any length. Its been a while since I have talked to them but when I ordered mine he basically said they could be built any length you wanted. I have four Cants from them and a log carrier and would buy them all again. 


ads


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## woodshop (Oct 4, 2007)

WOW... great job, you certainly impressed this woodworker. Wasn't I one of the ones above that sorta tried to talk you out of this? ... babbling about safety if it broke on you, and whether you had a machine shop etc to be able to make one??? Silly me. That looks better than my Baileys cant hook.


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## cantcutter (Oct 4, 2007)

Nice looking hook.....it sure doesn't look homemade. Wish i had the shop and skills to do work like that.


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## BobL (Oct 4, 2007)

Thanks for all the compliments guys - I'll give it a test run tomorrow and probably be back modifying it in the shed on Sunday.



Matildasmate said:


> I was actually thinking of the radiation inthat peice of steel from the exray machine



My small log milling set up is also made from bits of an X-ray machine. X-rays can't make other materials produce radiation so it's safe to use - otherwise as the boss I would onto the techos like a ton of bricks for putting all this stuff in the dumpster! (no I don't get first refusal because I'm the boss, I let it sit in the dumpster for at least a half day before diving in!)


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## Matildasmate (Oct 5, 2007)

*Logrite safety feature pic's*

Logrite safety feature pic's , picture's are self explanatory , the pins used are hardened steel roll pin's. One of the roll pins , stops the cant hook slapping against the handle and crushing your hand and or finger's . Cheers MM


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## Sprig (Oct 5, 2007)

Hm, I see what you're talkin' about on the Log-rite finger wise, nice feature that my own pee-vee doesn't have (but since I don't ever use it upsidedown no probs  ), wouldn't be much for Bob to add a small bit of steel to either the hook base or the top of the collar as a safety extra though.


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## Matildasmate (Oct 5, 2007)

*Your Right Sprig*



Sprig said:


> Hm, I see what you're talkin' about on the Log-rite finger wise, nice feature that my own pee-vee doesn't have (but since I don't ever use it upsidedown no probs  ), wouldn't be much for Bob to add a small bit of steel to either the hook base or the top of the collar as a safety extra though.



Your right Sprig .......... I don't use mine upside down either , but when your busy sometime's we do silly thing's without thinking about it , I was pretty rapped , when I held it up handle down the first time , without thinking , all I thought thank @%$#k for a good design mate . Cheers MM


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## BobL (Oct 5, 2007)

It's already got to come apart for some "adjusment" as the hook does not turn quite as smoothly in the slot as I like it to so a finger protection mechanism in on the books.


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## BobL (Oct 6, 2007)

*Cant hook - the weight test*

Took the Cant hook to the milling yard today. It works great even on small logs although it will be good to have a smaller one as well - I'm working on that in the shed. Excellent on bigger logs, should stand me in good stead when I have no forklift access.

I observed it already has that finger protection thing built into it because the hook cannot rotate all the way back and hit the handle or ones fingers.

Although I have forklift access in the yard the logs are not always in the right orientation for milling when I place them on the supporting gluts. Just before I drop the forks I can rotate the log exactly into the right orientation using the cant hook and all is good. The yard owner turns logs by doing this crafty "pancake flip thing" with the log on the ends of the fork - well beyound my skill level.

The other thing I did was test the handle. Here's me placing my full 270+ lbs on the handle - it seemed to bend maybe 1/4 -> 1/2 inch - otherwise all good.




In review, although it's probably too a touch too heavy it's working well.


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## cantcutter (Oct 6, 2007)

You sure you don't mean 270+ kg.......cause it looks to me like you need more lead in your A$$ 
So when do they go into production and how much is shipping to the US going to cost me?


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## dustytools (Oct 6, 2007)

Nice job Bob!


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## Matildasmate (Oct 6, 2007)

*Exelent job Bob*

Look's great Bob..............That Karri lot stronger than I thought it was , you have made a fine well built peice of equipment Bob , I put 2000 in about 10 years ago , got about a dozen 15 years old , been itchin to mow one down , gettin hard to resist now , what sort of log was that you were hangin off of . Did you slab any of it up? Cheer's MM


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## BobL (Oct 6, 2007)

Matildasmate said:


> what sort of log was that you were hangin off of . Did you slab any of it up? Cheer's MM



Box Brush, its first cab off the rank next week.
I got 10 new logs delivered to the yard to work on.
5 Box Brush, 2 red gums, a Eucalyptus Platypus and 2 blue leaved jarrahs.

RE: So when do they go into production and how much is shipping to the US going to cost me?
No production runs I'm afraid - I'm hopeless at making more than one or two of most things becuase I get instantly bored of anything involving.


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## Sprig (Oct 8, 2007)

Lol on yer testing method there Bob, damned good thing its good and strong as if that sucker had snapped in da wrong place ya might be lookin' for a new kidney! (like next time just set it in something un-movable and reef/hang on it, that way if it does happen ta break you won't get speared........much  )

Hm, wonder what the shippin' on a chunk of that'd be ta BC? The karri wood, not a kidney! 



Serge


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## BobL (Oct 8, 2007)

Thanks for the concern serge. If the handle was going to break it would break at the collar and I'd fall onto my knees. The probability of it breaking in the region of my gut was extremely low. Karri also rarely breaks outright in an instantaneous manner, it creaks and groans and sort of eases apart. It's amazing stuff.


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## BobL (Oct 13, 2007)

*Introducing the "Cant Dragon"*

Using my Cant hook I noticed that one has to be very close to square onto the log for the pole face part of the hook not to slip on the log. So with this in mind here is what I came up with. I'm calling it the cant dragon.




Here is a close up of the set of gripping teeth.



The teeth are oriented at an angle to the hook swing so if the handle is not applied square this angle will twist the handle toward being squarer to the log and engage the other parallel set of teeth. Together both should naturally set a square handle.
The teeth themselves are not sharp or designed to cut, just to grip.
The individual tooth angles are oriented such that as one applies more torque to the handle it will ratchet up onto the log.
That's the theory anyway. If it all goes to pot I will grind the teeth down, or off completely and leave a pair of parallel ridges. Point one above should apply (perhaps better) to ridges better than teeth.

Here's how the dragon compares to the regular hook I made a few weeks ago. The regular hook is 62" long while the dragon is 48" long.



Another difference between the two is the bigger one has a double side tapered handle whereas the smaller one has a single sided taper, with the taper is on the compression side of the handle. This should minimize the chance of handle splitting due to fibre ending on the taper. Something my dad taught be about making an axe handle from scratch - now that is going back to the 60's!

Cheers


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## Matildasmate (Oct 13, 2007)

*Look's great mate*

Look's great Bob ...... Should work well!


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## woodshop (Oct 13, 2007)

Interesting idea... Bob how thick are those teeth? I'm just thinking how much abuse my cant hook gets banging it around logs and using it to pry logs away from things etc. Would those teeth bend or mash sideways by any chance?


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## BobL (Oct 13, 2007)

woodshop said:


> Interesting idea... Bob how thick are those teeth? I'm just thinking how much abuse my cant hook gets banging it around logs and using it to pry logs away from things etc. Would those teeth bend or mash sideways by any chance?



Yeah I'm definitely treating this as an experiment (..... well just about everything I do is done that way!). The teeth are made from 1/8" thick x 3/4" mild steel strip and I have no doubt they will eventually get mashed. If they get bent it will probably be at the tips as there is a lot of "weld" supporting them at the base. I was going to make them from a piece of hardened steel but then welding would disturb the temper anyway so I decided to go for regular mild steel. If they get too beat up I can always cut them off and weld another set on - time will tell.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Oct 13, 2007)

Very interesting Bob. Keep us posted on how it performs.


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## jandc (Jul 23, 2009)

Bob, could u post some drawings and measurements of our cant hooks?

thanks,

jandc
Belgium


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## BobL (Jul 23, 2009)

jandc said:


> Bob, could u post some drawings and measurements of our cant hooks?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> ...



I will but you will have to wait for 3 weeks as I am currently just down the road from you in Vienna (well that's what Australians will all think, ie that Vienna is just down the road from Belgium)

If you cannot wait that long you can print out my pics and rescale them yourself. The long one is 1.5m (60") long and the short one is 1.2m (48") long.


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## jandc (Jul 24, 2009)

Ok, all wait for it
Vienna is quite a trip 
have a good time there


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