# To clean chainsaw chain



## lumberjackmoe (Jun 30, 2012)

I thought would ask the experts. Should one clean his chainsaw chains when one sharpens them?
I have been. First I soak the chain over night in a mixture of 1 cup of ammonia to 1 gallon of water. Remove chain and rinse in WD 40. Hang to dry. Then sharpen. Soak in oil over night, then hang to drip off excess oil.
The chains look and feel like new !
I am hopeing you folks have another way that I would love to hear about. The big question is, is it necessary ?

lumberjackmoe


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## Gologit (Jun 30, 2012)

No. But I'll bet your chains look good. 

If you're cutting wood that has a lot of sticky sap, or if your chain gets hot and the wood fries on the top of the tooth and the side links, you might want to go over it lightly with a wire brush attachment on a Dremel.

Other than that, as long as the chain retains it's freedom of movement, just run it.


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## sunfish (Jun 30, 2012)

I've never cleaned one... :msp_smile:


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## bigredd (Jun 30, 2012)

I spray them with purple power cleaner and let soak for 15 minutes, then hit them with a wire brush and rinse with water hose and dry. After that just coat with PB Blaster or WD40. That purple power is great stuff.


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## H 2 H (Jun 30, 2012)

sunfish said:


> I've never cleaned one... :msp_smile:




I clean mine alot when its cutting firewood; seems the wood does a good enough job for me


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## TonyRumore (Jun 30, 2012)

When they get dirty, I just throw them out and put a new one on.:msp_rolleyes:

Tony


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## SkippyKtm (Jun 30, 2012)

The ultra sonic cleaner (USC) does a great job. I just add some castrol super clean and let 'er rip for 6 minutes...:wink2:


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## jus2fat (Jun 30, 2012)

I just brush them off with an old toothbrush...

I carry a small soda jug with "mix" to constantly clean the file.

J2F


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## Chris-PA (Jun 30, 2012)

Blow 'em off with the air hose after running the saw, clean up the edges and put 'em back in the wood. It's saw chain.


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## fearofpavement (Jun 30, 2012)

I clean air filters, bar grooves, and occasionally wipe down the plastic but I have never bothered cleaning a saw chain. Seems like washing the tread of my truck tires.


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## Arbonaut (Jun 30, 2012)

I soak it in Rubbermaid degreaser strong solution mixed with water in a Rawlings Baseball bucket. The cleaner is Sodium Hydroxide, (LYE). It gets it all out. No gunked up, caked up sticky pitched covered chain with all those hundreds of moving parts performs as well as a bright blue clean sharp chain with lube flowing in all those clean parts. Not physically possible. 

I got the idea for the lye-based degreaser from this dude here. After practicing what this guy said, I won't go back to dirty chain.


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## DSS (Jun 30, 2012)

Why clean something, only to go out in the yard and shove it in a log at high RPM? I don't get it.:confused2:


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## Gologit (Jun 30, 2012)

Woodcutter TV said:


> I got the idea for the lye-based degreaser from this dude here. After practicing what this guy said, I won't go back to dirty chain.



If you watched the whole video you're probably aware that it contains advertising from a non-sponsor.


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## parrisw (Jun 30, 2012)

DSS said:


> Why clean something, only to go out in the yard and shove it in a log at high RPM? I don't get it.:confused2:



Ya, its kinda like wiping your ass before you take a big dump.


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## Anthony_Va. (Jun 30, 2012)

I like to clean mine up with degreaser. Afterwards I will dry them with compressed air and polish them up with some metal polish. Then I will put one drop of oil on every rivit and then wipe them down again with a clean cloth. Then I give it a kiss and hang it on my bedpost. 

Shiet man, I've never cleaned a chain in my life. Thats what the bar oil and wood is for. :msp_biggrin:


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## discounthunter (Jun 30, 2012)

only time i cleaned a chain(s ) is if i get alot of grit build up,ie stumping or just a plain dirt filled log.i also clean out the bar track as well.nothing fancy just a shallow pan with some old gas(this is what you can do with your old gas, btw)clean off with a brush ,another quick rinse in the gas and hang it.


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## Whitespider (Jul 1, 2012)

lumberjackmoe said:


> *...I soak the chain over night... rinse in WD 40. Hang to dry. Then sharpen. Soak in oil over night, then hang...*



Man, that's just over the top... *STOP DOING THAT!*


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## MCW (Jul 1, 2012)

Although I have been guilty of cleaning chains in the past by soaking them in Caustic Soda (Lye) it really isn't necessary. In my experience gunked up chains tend to be a problem with guys who practice "Terry Tightarse" tactics with their oiler and always run it wound right down to save 2 cents. A really well oiled chain doesn't tend to gum up much at all. Any caked on sap tends to fly off with the next cut although I am aware different timbers to what I normally cut may cause different issues.
With the odd exception cleaning chains is probably showing you have too much time on your hands to have got them dirty to start with...


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## Ronaldo (Jul 1, 2012)

I guess I dont really know or understand what the purpose of cleaning a saw chain is? Why would you want to wash away the lubricating oil that is already soaked into the areas of the chain?

I have never cleaned a chain like some are describing here. If the saw oiler is working and the chain is good and oily then cut wood!!!!!!

Ron


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## MCW (Jul 1, 2012)

Also a bit of sap stuck on the cutters smells nice when you hit it with the grinder


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## galde (Jul 1, 2012)

A chain that is sharp and adequately oiled will clean itself in use. I always make sure that chains that I sharpen are squeaky-clean before I file or grind. A chain that has been run dull will get caked up with crud, and any crud wil load up a grinding wheel or file. I also want the chain to be clean so I can properly inspect every tooth and also tell what I am doing when sharpening. Cruddy chains take trip through my USC before sharpening.


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## Whitespider (Jul 1, 2012)

I'm a cheap-azz, I use my chains until the cutters are so short they start breaking off... and then the chain gets hung on a nail to be used as a "dirt" chain if'n I need one to cut a root or some such. If, after the "dirt" work is done, and there's enough cutters remaining to be worth sharpening, I'll blow the dirt off with compressed air before filing. Compressed air on a chain that's been used in dirt is as close as I've ever come to "cleaning" a chain.


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## 7sleeper (Jul 1, 2012)

Whitespider said:


> I'm a cheap-azz, I use my chains until the cutters are so short they start breaking off... and then the chain gets hung on a nail to be used as a "dirt" chain if'n I need one to cut a root or some such. If, after the "dirt" work is done, and there's enough cutters remaining to be worth sharpening, I'll blow the dirt off with compressed air before filing. Compressed air on a chain that's been used in dirt is as close as I've ever come to "cleaning" a chain.



+1

7


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## medic8852 (Jul 1, 2012)

how about a rusty chain....I'm working on cleaning up the old david bradley, would like to make at least a cut or two with it before hanging on the wall, lol. The chain is 1/2" i'm guessing and has a moderate amount of rust. Cutters and rakers look real good, so sharpening shouldn't be a problem, but i'd like to get this chain cleaned up as best as possible to be able to make a pass or two with it for fun...


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## fearofpavement (Jul 1, 2012)

medic8852 said:


> how about a rusty chain....I'm working on cleaning up the old david bradley, would like to make at least a cut or two with it before hanging on the wall, lol. The chain is 1/2" i'm guessing and has a moderate amount of rust. Cutters and rakers look real good, so sharpening shouldn't be a problem, but i'd like to get this chain cleaned up as best as possible to be able to make a pass or two with it for fun...



Cut some wood with it and then see if it hasn't improved its appearance. That'll probably clean it up quite a bit in and of itself...


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## GASoline71 (Jul 1, 2012)

medic8852 said:


> how about a rusty chain....I'm working on cleaning up the old david bradley, would like to make at least a cut or two with it before hanging on the wall, lol. The chain is 1/2" i'm guessing and has a moderate amount of rust. Cutters and rakers look real good, so sharpening shouldn't be a problem, but i'd like to get this chain cleaned up as best as possible to be able to make a pass or two with it for fun...



The only time I have ever soaked a chain... is some old 1/2" and 7/16" chain I got some years back. Some rusted links that wouldn't move. SOaked 'em in diesel for about a week. Busted up that rust no prob. I have some of the 1/2" on my Homelite 770G. Works fine.

Nowthen... to the original topic... As far as "cleaning" chain after sharpening. That makes no sense whatsoever. So after sharpening a chain on your tailgate or on a stump in the middle of cuttin', do people actually stop to clean chain before cuttin' again? That's silly... just sharpen and go bury it back in the wood. EZPZ.

Overengineering at it's finest.

Gary


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## Guido Salvage (Jul 1, 2012)

In my mind there is a fairly wide gap between good maintenance of tools and OCD. The purpose of the chain is to cut, if it is properly sharpened and well lubricated it should need no additional attention. 

If you do this to your chains, how much time do you spend on the dis-assembly, cleaning and reassembly of the individual parts of the saw? Seems like you are leaving scant little time for lumberjacking...


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## lumberjackmoe (Jul 1, 2012)

*What I wrote*

GASoline72. I wrote I clean, then sharpen, then soak. I do not take the time to remove the chains from the saw. I am handed about 7 chains from a fellow that buys white oak logs, grades them, then sells them to buyers. At times he will cut off the end of the logs. He said that I can have all cut offs shorter the 4'. I currently have 59 rick split and stacked in the field out in back of my house and about another 18 rick to split and stack. I get about 1-2 rick of logs a week. I sharpen his chains as a favor to him in return for the logs. He use to have the local Stihl dealer sharpen his chains but the dealer would burn the teeth and take the temper out of the steel and thus the chains would not hold the sharpening very long.This guy will not roll the logs when he is cutting the ends off, and so he will nick a stone now and then. I take them and kiss them with a grinder and return them to him. I feel this is a fair exchange.
Thank all of you for your replies. I think I will stop cleaning the chains, thanks to all of your input, and clean only if the links do not flex.


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## Gologit (Jul 1, 2012)

lumberjackmoe said:


> Thank all of you for your replies. I think I will stop cleaning the chains, thanks to all of your input, and clean only if the links do not flex.



Good plan.


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## 7sleeper (Jul 2, 2012)

lumberjackmoe said:


> ..... I am handed about 7 chains from a fellow that buys white oak logs, grades them, then sells them to buyers. At times he will cut off the end of the logs. He said that I can have all cut offs shorter the 4'. I currently have 59 rick split and stacked in the field out in back of my house and about another 18 rick to split and stack. I get about 1-2 rick of logs a week. I sharpen his chains as a favor to him in return for the logs. He use to have the local Stihl dealer sharpen his chains but the dealer would burn the teeth and take the temper out of the steel and thus the chains would not hold the sharpening very long.This guy will not roll the logs when he is cutting the ends off, and so he will nick a stone now and then. I take them and kiss them with a grinder and return them to him. I feel this is a fair exchange.
> Thank all of you for your replies. I think I will stop cleaning the chains, thanks to all of your input, and clean only if the links do not flex.



This is a totally different situation! At first I thought you were only doing it for yourself but if you get something in return *then I think it is absolutly correct to do it!* You are doing a trade and I for my point would want my side of the trade to be perfect so that there is no discussion what so ever! If I was in your situation the chains would also look like brand new!

7


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## D&B Mack (Jul 3, 2012)

lumberjackmoe said:


> Remove chain and rinse in WD 40. Hang to dry. Then sharpen.



I would sharpen before adding WD40. Seems chains will sharpen best when dry.


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## bcaarms (Aug 13, 2013)

*Stone or CBN wheel gets gunk on it*

If you sharpen with a grinder it does matter. Matters to a file also, but easier to clean off a file.


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## cujo8 (Jan 28, 2014)

bcaarms is correct, If you don't clean your chain well before you sharpen it on your electric chainsaw grinder, you'll plug up the pours on the grinding wheels and this hinders the cutting action. When this happens you need to apply more pressure to grinder to make it work and this causes more heat, that can also ruin the chain. 
If you don't use an electric chain grinder to sharpen your chain and you mostly only cut clean wood you will most likely never need to clean your chain, but if you bury your chain in the dirt accidentally or cut some wood with a lot of dirt on it, it would be wise to clean the chain once in awhile just to get rid of the dirt and grime that will cause your bar, chain, and sprocket to where out prematurely.


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## 066blaster (Jan 28, 2014)

Do what you want or feel necessary. The guys on here will contradict any thing you say anyway. If it's caked with junk clean it. If not just sharpen and go.


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## Coldfront (Jan 28, 2014)

I blow it off with compressed air then file, then back into the wood it goes. If I don't have compressed air I just wipe it off with a rag the best I can.


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## whitedogone (Jan 28, 2014)

If you feel the need to clean chains before grinding and whatnot, cheap dollar store oven cleaner works extremely well.


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## motti (Jan 28, 2014)

lumberjackmoe said:


> *What I wrote*
> 
> I sharpen his chains as a favor to him in return for the logs.


And for that, you are doing a service. In fact, you are doing a better service than anyone else, hence why he is coming to you. If you and your name are attached to this "product", I would make it represent it well. Why wouldn't you want them to look their very best? Keep on cleaning those chains, I say. And that's just from a business/customer service angle.


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## demc570 (Jan 28, 2014)

i hand file chain on bar,wire brush first then sharpen,then i i remove the bar and chain to remove any shavings,and wood and oil from bar groves,clean out oil holes,clean chain cover,make every thing clean for next outing.. and clean entire saw each time i sharpen my chain...WORKS GOOD FOR ME-YES LITTLE TIME,BUT I KNOW ITS DONE,AND ALSO GET TO INSPECT ANY LITTLE ISSUES THAT MAY SPRING UP


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## moojpg2 (Jan 28, 2014)

I have a parts washer full of diesel so I usually just throw my really beat up or unevenly filed chain loops in there to soak to cut the sap and such off em before I get a chance to fix em on the grinder. It's very convenient if you have the parts washer in your shop, but otherwise I'd say complete waste of time. If I'm filing on the bar (which is the bulk of my sharpening, at or before working) I certainly wouldn't bother.


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## axe2fall (Jan 28, 2014)

I hand file on the bar at the end of the day. The bar can always use a shot of compressed air by the time the chain needs sharpening. So can the rest of the saw. It only takes a minute to pull the chain and drop it in some old gasoline while blowing the crud from the saw. Slosh around and pull out the chain and blow that dry. . . Touch ups in the woods are different.
It seems to me that the file cuts better on unlubricated chain. Files definitely stay cleaner on clean dry chain. Never used a grinder so I don't know.
I also blow the filings off the chain before I start the saw again.
Not the only way, but it works for me.


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## Gypo Logger (Oct 25, 2014)

This is one great thread. I now take my chain completely apart, oil with my mascara brush, and reassemble, usually after every cord or so. I also ran out in cold dark last night and backed off all tension screws on my 60 plus saws. No Brocken cranks for me.


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## Locoweed (Oct 25, 2014)

Can't teach a old dog new tricks?


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## 2dogs (Oct 25, 2014)

The only time I "clean" a chain is if I hit a pocket of red oak sap at the end of a day. This sap water mix will harden once it hits the air and sits for a day or two. The chain will look like it has been coated with donut glaze. So I will run the saw at high idle to get some extra oil on the chain and then rev to the max a couple of times. This cleans most of the sap off. Then I touch the chain to the bark a couple of times and I'm good to go.


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## Jeff Lary (Oct 25, 2014)

I don't clean mine either


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## Guido Salvage (Oct 25, 2014)

Once I finish polishing my chains, what lacquer/clear coat would you recommend?


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## z71mike (Oct 25, 2014)

I don't bother cleaning them since I use a brand new chain for every round.


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## aarolar (Oct 25, 2014)

Mothers mag wheel polish does wonders for the chrome cutters on my Stihl chains. Hand polish each one every afternoon.


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## Philbert (Oct 25, 2014)

Just to keep the balance with all of the other chain cleaning threads . . .

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Some of it depends on how dirty a chain is; if you need to inspect for cracks; etc. Some photos in those threads of real surprises found under the gunk.

Based on some of the 'logic' of some earlier posts, I guess that showers and laundry are taboo topics as well, along with washing cars or trucks.

Philbert


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## RiverRat2 (Oct 25, 2014)

You chain cleaners are all on Crack!!!!!!


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## banana boat (Oct 26, 2014)

I like to wash all the wood before cutting it so it doesn't get my chain dirty


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## Philbert (Oct 26, 2014)

banana boat said:


> I like to wash all the wood before cutting it so it doesn't get my chain dirty



Careful. There are some threads here on that. Guys washing the bark on their skidded logs to protect their full chisel, hand filed chains. 

Philbert


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## musicgunner (Feb 2, 2015)

H 2 H said:


> I clean mine alot when its cutting firewood; seems the wood does a good enough job for me



From this reply on everyone seemed to miss the point. Most people know you dont clean a chain on a log before sharpening. Read the post! Its about how you should clean and degrease your chain before sharpening!!!


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## 1Alpha1 (Feb 2, 2015)

Pssttt.........keep this under your hat.


Pre-mix works better than anything.


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## Philbert (Feb 2, 2015)

musicgunner said:


> From this reply on everyone seemed to miss the point.


Welcome to A.S.!

Chain cleaning is not a new topic, and this is not the only thread on it. A number of guys feel that running a 'dirty' chain through 'clean' wood is all that is needed.

Philbert


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## stihl waters (Feb 2, 2015)

I was a faller for 30 yrs. and this is the first time I've heard of cleaning a chain,Sweet Georgia Brown I've heard it all now !


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## Philbert (Feb 2, 2015)

stihl waters said:


> Sweet Georgia Brown I've heard it all now !


Glad we could help with your bucket list!

Philbert


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## nyctreeman (Feb 2, 2015)

musicgunner said:


> Its about how you should clean and degrease your chain before sharpening!!!


 I've never had a chain that was greasy ... but then I don't use my chainsaws to cut pig carcasses either.


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## maine (Feb 2, 2015)

banana boat said:


> I like to wash all the wood before cutting it so it doesn't get my chain dirty




we use a power washer on the really dirty muddy logs caked with rocks and stuff before we start milling it on the bandsaw mill. 
dirty bark with rocks in it is a real killer of bandsaw blades.


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## Philbert (Feb 2, 2015)

maine said:


> . . . dirty bark with rocks in it is a real killer of bandsaw blades.



That dirty bark is worse than the bite (of the bandsaw teeth)?

Philbert


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## maine (Feb 3, 2015)

Philbert said:


> That dirty bark is worse than the bite (of the bandsaw teeth)?
> 
> Philbert



lol something like that.
i just hate a dull blade making slow wavy cuts and horrible lumber.


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## Philbert (Feb 3, 2015)

Do you ever de-bark a whole log before milling? Seems like it could be a lot of work, depending on the type of bark.

Philbert


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## CR888 (Feb 3, 2015)

Most saw brands have a chain/saw cleaner in a spray bottle, l know stihl offers it. l had about 6 bottles of Solo chain cleaner and apart from being a bit toxic to breathe/touch it would just dissolve sap and gunk on a chain like nothing else. Literally spray chain in sink, let sit for a few mins and rinse off. Along with a quick harsh brush scrub, chains would return to the new shiny look with minimal effort. What's also noticeable is how well the rivets and links move as all the gunk that binds them up is gone. I only do this to badly sap infested chains that are getting stiff, but this spray works a lot better than one would expect. You need not wear a skirt or make-up while performing this task, you will be fine.
On the topic of cleaning, last night the minister for domestic affairs at home walked into my kitchen as she could smell something on the stove bubbling away....she got a suprise when she found two Mahle jugs in a stock pot.


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## cedarshark (Feb 3, 2015)

I fill a 40 gallon barrel full of simple green and warm water, start the saw, dip it nose down in the barrel and bring it to 13K . Cleans the entire saw and me as well.


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## Giles (Feb 3, 2015)

lumberjackmoe said:


> I thought would ask the experts. Should one clean his chainsaw chains when one sharpens them?
> I have been. First I soak the chain over night in a mixture of 1 cup of ammonia to 1 gallon of water. Remove chain and rinse in WD 40. Hang to dry. Then sharpen. Soak in oil over night, then hang to drip off excess oil.
> The chains look and feel like new !
> I am hopeing you folks have another way that I would love to hear about. The big question is, is it necessary ?
> ...


Dirt/Sawdust, is a contaminant. I only clean a chain before I sharpen it to eliminate gumming up the file or wheel.
Another thing that I totally don't understand is, why do people tear a chainsaw or anything completely down without cleaning first?
Just the other day, I saw a new listing for a Stihl chainsaw, can't remember the model, that was listed for buy it now at a really good price. Listing said light scoring of cylinder. All the photos showed dirt that had fallen inside the engine when they tore the filthy engine down!
Most of the cleaning I do is done with compressed air and then with Purple Power or Spray 9 Grez-Off.


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## musicgunner (Feb 3, 2015)

Guido Salvage said:


> Once I finish polishing my chains, what lacquer/clear coat would you recommend?



I'd recommend reading the post about cleaning your chain when sharpening. Of coarse he dont clean it for the heck of it!


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## Philbert (Feb 3, 2015)

CR888 said:


> Most saw brands have a chain/saw cleaner in a spray bottle, l know stihl offers it.


I posted a lot of things you can use in the _Chain Salvage Challenge_ thread above. Sodium hydroxide (lye) works really well whether it is part of a commercial cleaning product ('Super Fast', 'LA Totally Awsome', etc.), oven cleaner, or even food grade powder (yes - used in preserving some foods, making soap, etc.). ***Use with care as this stuff is extremely caustic and will eat your skin or eyes if splashed***

Other grease cutting products, like citrus based cleaners, cleaners designed for bicycle or motorcycle chains, or parts washers work as well. Many of these are as effective as, and less expensive than, some of the others. Some are flammable. Some smell more/less. Some may be more environmentally friendly. Lots of choices. 

Use these with care, and make sure to re-lube the chains after cleaning or sharpening so that they don't rust.

Philbert


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## Chris-PA (Feb 3, 2015)

It's not really clean unless you floss between the links.

Only floss the ones you want to keep!


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## Philbert (Feb 3, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> It's not really clean unless you floss between the links.


Well, . . . they _are_ called '_teeth_', . . . and I _do_ use old toothbrushes to clean mine . . . .but personally, I stop at the whitening strips.



Philbert


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## maine (Feb 4, 2015)

Philbert said:


> Do you ever de-bark a whole log before milling? Seems like it could be a lot of work, depending on the type of bark.
> 
> Philbert



never have, but ive been interested in seeing how well those chainsaw debarker attachments work.


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## Icehouse (Feb 4, 2015)

See'n as how I normally don't take the chain off until it's time for a new one, in this neck of the woods when it's time to sharpen just make a couple quick cuts in a white fir tree. Don't know what's in it but sure cleans chain especially when you been cutting red fir or tamarack. Maybe there are other kinds of wood with those cleaning characteristics.


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## Hexa Fox (Sep 20, 2015)

CR888 said:


> Most saw brands have a chain/saw cleaner in a spray bottle, l know stihl offers it. l had about 6 bottles of Solo chain cleaner and apart from being a bit toxic to breathe/touch it would just dissolve sap and gunk on a chain like nothing else.



Has anyone else noticed that STIHL is changing a lot? They offered a "heavy duty degreaser" that came in a green bottle that they no longer offered. They also just moved the "Farm Boss" model down to the MS 270 whereas it was the MS 290. They just removed the word "Magnum" from the MS 660. Additionally, they just discontinued the STIHL USG (grinder) as well. This could all just be a coincidence but it is starting to get a little concerning. 

Anyway, before I started cleaning my chains I noticed my file would get fouled up and need to be cleaned up in the middle of sharpening. I also noticed that if I cleaned my file and chain I got much better results when returning to the job. However, if I needed to get back to the job quickly I did not let the chain get very dull before I touched it up onsite. 

Having that said, I personally believe one way of thinking of it is that if you sharpened chains for friends, family or even customers you would not want to return it fouled up. Additionally, you would not want it fouling up your expensive grinder either (assuming you have an expensive grinder). I know that a lot of you guys probably would not worry about how it was returned as long as it cut. However, I think that weekend warriors that were paying you to sharpen their chains would not appreciate it very much. 

I heard that the very best cleaner to use is Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) to about a gallon of water. I heard it will take eat absolutely anything off of a chain will not compromising it either. Not sure how true it is, but I have seen it said more than once before.


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## Philbert (Sep 20, 2015)

I clean mine with a commercial, water-based degreaser that contains sodium hydroxide. I tried using plain lye, in my '_Challenge Chain_' thread. It worked.

Talked to a chemist for one of the companies that makes these products. He pointed out that the commercial degreasers contain a mix of chemicals, detergents, etc., to help clean a variety of things, not just dissolve grease .

Solvent-based degreasers, such as those used in parts washers, also work. I prefer not to use those at home.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Sep 20, 2015)

Heloise says to use vinegar to clean lots of things. It also knocks the rust off of saw chains. But, it takes the shine off the cutters. Purists may not like that. So, I use EvapoRust instead. Much more expensive, but it works and leaves the shine on the cutters. Frankly, I have no idea whether the cutters work better with shine on them. So, many of my chains that I use personally get cleaned with vinegar and I save the EvapoRust for customers, many of which are spoiled millennials.


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## Kenlip (Jun 8, 2020)

motti said:


> And for that, you are doing a service. In fact, you are doing a better service than anyone else, hence why he is coming to you. If you and your name are attached to this "product", I would make it represent it well. Why wouldn't you want them to look their very best? Keep on cleaning those chains, I say. And that's just from a business/customer service angle.


It's a bit like the guy who services your car. If it comes back washed and vacuumed and has clean windows it leaves a good impression. The car is not going to perform any better because it is clean but that doesn't mean it is not worth doing.
It also makes sense to be working with clean metal when using a file or grinder. Crud on the chain can't be doing any favours for the files or stones.


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## Fatherwheels (Jun 8, 2020)

I usually clean a chain with compressed air, tap it a time or Two against wood
to knock off anything still there, wipe each cutter with a cloth, sharpen
clean with a paintbrush to flick off filings, then compressed air,
tap against wood again and steep in oil bath, hang to drip before use, takes less time than it sounds.
Clean chain doesn’t clog files near as much.


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## Henry E (Jun 8, 2020)

Arbonaut said:


> I soak it in Rubbermaid degreaser strong solution mixed with water in a Rawlings Baseball bucket. The cleaner is Sodium Hydroxide, (LYE). It gets it all out. No gunked up, caked up sticky pitched covered chain with all those hundreds of moving parts performs as well as a bright blue clean sharp chain with lube flowing in all those clean parts. Not physically possible.
> 
> I got the idea for the lye-based degreaser from this dude here. After practicing what this guy said, I won't go back to dirty chain.



Lye is used to strip the old coating on cast iron skillets. It removed the polymerized vegetable oil or lard. I expect that baked on bar oil would be very similar.
It is said you can put the skillet in the lye and leave it in there for months with no damage. But that it should only take a day for it to strip off the old coating. It does nothing for rust.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jun 8, 2020)

I just did an old chain yesterday that got hot and was run dull, then sat dry and dirty. I ran both sides across a brass wire wheel, soaked it in gas for an hour, then scrubbed it with a brush, rinsed...then soaked it in CLR for 2 hours...rinsed, and warmed up some motor oil to the point it smoked and let the chain soak overnight. Pull it out, blew it off...ran ir across the grinder and hung it up on a nail...looks and feels very nice and it only took about 10 minutes and about a quart of gas....

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## Philbert (Jun 8, 2020)

RED-85-Z51 said:


> I ran both sides across a brass wire wheel, soaked it in gas for an hour, then scrubbed it with a brush, rinsed...then soaked it in CLR for 2 hours...rinsed, and warmed up some motor oil to the point it smoked and let the chain soak overnight. Pull it out, blew it off...ran ir across the grinder and hung it up on a nail...looks and feels very nice and it only took about 10 minutes and about a quart of gas....


That's a lot of work! Seriously.

I soak dirty chains in a 50:50 mix of SuperClean (water based degreaser containing lye) for about 5 minutes, then clean with an old toothbrush, rinse, and dry in an oven (200°F for 15 min on an _old _cookie sheet). Takes care of most gunked up chains. If really bad (some chains look like they are coated with tar or asphalt) it goes back in for another 5 minutes and I hit it with a fine, stainless steel scratch brush (like a toothbrush, but used for MIG welding). Hit heavily with WD-40 after repairs, sharpening, etc.




If a chain just has sawdust and bar oil on it, blow it off with compressed air or wipe it with a rag.






Philbert Meets the STIHL RS3


(NOTE: I have tried to replace lost photos in this thread - some may not be the same as the originals) Intro / Background OK, I can't port a saw like Mastermind and some others, but I can scrounge, save, and rehabilitate some chains that were not loved by their mothers, and restore them to...




www.arboristsite.com





If I find light rust underneath, I soak in a mild, organic acid (citric, acetic, oxalic, etc.) and brush. EvapoRust type chemicals work too, but they are expensive. Have to remove all the grease and oil first for these chemicals to work. 

Philbert


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## holeycow (Jun 8, 2020)

However, most times "cleaning a chain" is entirely unnecessary. 

I bet most folks have never cleaned a chain.

I was just out in the rain (hallelujah!) clearing dead fall off of fenceline (with one of my trusty jonny 590's wahaha), anyway the saw (and me) are soaking wet. So I made sure to run the chain a bit before I left the saw to air. This lubes the chain thoroughly and prevents rust. I almost always do this as standard procedure even when things are not wet. It only takes one rusty chain to adopt this shutdown procedure..,


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jun 8, 2020)

Philbert said:


> That's a lot of work! Seriously.
> 
> I soak dirty chains in a 50:50 mix of SuperClean (water based degreaser containing lye) for about 5 minutes, then clean with an old toothbrush, rinse, and dry in an oven (200°F for 15 min on an _old _cookie sheet). Takes care of most gunked up chains. If really bad (some chains look like they are coated with tar or asphalt) it goes back in for another 5 minutes and I hit it with a fine, stainless steel scratch brush (like a toothbrush, but used for MIG welding). Hit heavily with WD-40 after repairs, sharpening, etc.
> 
> ...


It sounds like alot but, mainly just transferring from one pan to the next. Wheeling and grinding included maybe 10 minutes of my time. I figure im out in the shop fixing stuff...

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