# Looking for felling feedback



## John A Willard (Feb 27, 2018)

Looking for some professional feedback. Dropped this ash today. Missed the house and everything but I'm sure you professionals can offer some tips.


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## BC WetCoast (Feb 27, 2018)

To get picky, it looks like your notch may have been a tad deep. However, it worked as it should, so good job.


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## John A Willard (Feb 28, 2018)

BC WetCoast said:


> To get picky, it looks like your notch may have been a tad deep. However, it worked as it should, so good job.


I was kind of concerned about that when I was cutting the notch. Thanks for the feedback, BC.


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## Ben84 (Mar 4, 2018)

Back cut was a little high, and not enough hinge wood.


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## BC WetCoast (Mar 4, 2018)

Back cut is supposed to be 1-2" higher than the apex of the notch.

http://faculty.forestry.ubc.ca/bendickson/FOPRLibrary/Library/Safe Work/WCB fallers_buckers.pdf

Pages 28-30


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## Marshy (Mar 4, 2018)

You nearly cut through 100% of your holding wood. Only a thin (1/4"?) strip remained and only half way across the diameter of the tree. Your stump shot only needa to be about 1" and you're over 2.5" or so. The face is a little deep but that's ok. If I had to choose only one thing to yell at you for it would be cutting through your hinge wood. You cut that and the tree does what ever the hell it wants. The rest I pointed out won't get you killed nearly as easilly.


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## ATH (Mar 4, 2018)

Yeah...not enough hinge wood. That is the only real concern. Everything else is just touching up and getting a little better each time.

Doesn't look like the bottom on the face cut and the back cut are co-planer.

In the 4th pic...how close did it come to rolling towards the building? Did you see that possibility? (or maybe it isn't like it looks...).


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## JTM (Mar 4, 2018)

I cut through the holding wood like that once. The tree spun off the stump and came right at me. I was fortunate to get out of the way. Now I pay very close attention when making my back cut.


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## John A Willard (Mar 5, 2018)

Ben84 said:


> Back cut was a little high, and not enough hinge wood.


I see that now, thanks!


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## John A Willard (Mar 5, 2018)

BC WetCoast said:


> Back cut is supposed to be 1-2" higher than the apex of the notch.
> 
> http://faculty.forestry.ubc.ca/bendickson/FOPRLibrary/Library/Safe Work/WCB fallers_buckers.pdf
> 
> Pages 28-30


Thanks for the guide. I'll be reading it thoroughly before doing another one.


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## John A Willard (Mar 5, 2018)

Marshy said:


> You nearly cut through 100% of your holding wood. Only a thin (1/4"?) strip remained and only half way across the diameter of the tree. Your stump shot only needa to be about 1" and you're over 2.5" or so. The face is a little deep but that's ok. If I had to choose only one thing to yell at you for it would be cutting through your hinge wood. You cut that and the tree does what ever the hell it wants. The rest I pointed out won't get you killed nearly as easilly.


Yep, I should have had my bigger saw ready to go. I can see that coming at it from both sides made it difficult and increased the risk of cutting too much.


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## John A Willard (Mar 5, 2018)

ATH said:


> Yeah...not enough hinge wood. That is the only real concern. Everything else is just touching up and getting a little better each time.
> 
> Doesn't look like the bottom on the face cut and the back cut are co-planer.
> 
> In the 4th pic...how close did it come to rolling towards the building? Did you see that possibility? (or maybe it isn't like it looks...).


It actually fell a little farther away from the house than I was trying for. Maybe 3-5 degrees.


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## John A Willard (Mar 5, 2018)

JTM said:


> I cut through the holding wood like that once. The tree spun off the stump and came right at me. I was fortunate to get out of the way. Now I pay very close attention when making my back cut.


Thanks, tree landed close to the planned location but it seemed like it took more wedging than it should have to break it over. I trimmed up limbs to try and get the weight centered.


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## John A Willard (Mar 5, 2018)

I really want to thank all of you guys for responding. I do have an independent streak that I have to keep in check. Appreciate the advice without talking down. This is a great site!!!


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## thetoolnut (Mar 6, 2018)

1/4 to 1/3 the diameter for the sink cut, back cut to be level or two inches max above the apex of the sink. The sink cut needs to be level front to back and left to right, the same applies to the back cut. How the saw hangs in your left hand determines how level your cuts will be. Your left hand acts as a pivot on the front handle and your right hand guides the back of the saw. Before cutting anything hold the saw in your hands as you would if you were cutting the level cut on your sink or a back cut. Get your buddie to squat down say six feet away from you and get him to sight the bar level with the ground. After making any adjustments look at your hand position. After a while it will become second nature with muscle memory. The balance of a saw varies with different types of bars. Don't be afraid to scribe your cuts either and take your time. 

Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk


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## John A Willard (Mar 6, 2018)

thetoolnut said:


> 1/4 to 1/3 the diameter for the sink cut, back cut to be level or two inches max above the apex of the sink. The sink cut needs to be level front to back and left to right, the same applies to the back cut. How the saw hangs in your left hand determines how level your cuts will be. Your left hand acts as a pivot on the front handle and your right hand guides the back of the saw. Before cutting anything hold the saw in your hands as you would if you were cutting the level cut on your sink or a back cut. Get your buddie to squat down say six feet away from you and get him to sight the bar level with the ground. After making any adjustments look at your hand position. After a while it will become second nature with muscle memory. The balance of a saw varies with different types of bars. Don't be afraid to scribe your cuts either and take your time.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk



That makes good sense. I'm a retired Ironworker and I wouldn't make an important cut in a high dollar situation without doing an accurate layout and being comfortable with the tools. Thanks!


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## hseII (Mar 7, 2018)

John A Willard said:


> That makes good sense. I'm a retired Ironworker and I wouldn't make an important cut in a high dollar situation without doing an accurate layout and being comfortable with the tools. Thanks!



@John A Willard,

Another good publication:

Professional Timber Falling (Book) by Douglas Dent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00455VB4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gFdOAb7FBYMST
This has been out a few decades, so the equipment is dated, but I personally like seeing the older stuff. The Methods are just as accurate today as ever.



A modern publication with additional information related to pulling trees, as well as an introduction to rope use.
To Fell a Tree A Complete Guide to Tree Felling and Woodcutting Methods https://www.amazon.com/dp/0615338798/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CFdOAb3R0PY9D

Both are solid choices for anyone who plans to cut a few trees.


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## John A Willard (Mar 7, 2018)

hseII said:


> @John A Willard,
> 
> Another good publication:
> 
> ...


Thanks, I'll check these out. Really appreciate it.


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## joegill (Mar 13, 2018)

Google the five steps of tree felling. It is part of the Asplundh and Davey training materials and also available on PDF from ISA. Stihl and Husqvarna have video courses on YouTube regarding felling, as well. Hope this helps.


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## John A Willard (Mar 14, 2018)

joegill said:


> Google the five steps of tree felling. It is part of the Asplundh and Davey training materials and also available on PDF from ISA. Stihl and Husqvarna have video courses on YouTube regarding felling, as well. Hope this helps.


Thanks, I'll check these out too. 
I ain't 'askeered' of too much but my own ignorance sure does make me a little uneasy!


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## Zale (Mar 15, 2018)

What everyone else said. Were you wearing chaps, helmet, eye protection, and hearing protection?


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## ropensaddle (Mar 16, 2018)

John A Willard said:


> Thanks, I'll check these out too.
> I ain't 'askeered' of too much but my own ignorance sure does make me a little uneasy!


Don't be too hard on yourself everyone here had to learn and most here have made mistakes and still do if they are honest. Learning is part of the fun but you must know your limitations. I was a bit uneasy on this one and needless to say I took my time notching ratchet binding the spar to prevent chair and winching plus back up rigging. See sometimes a wedge just ain't gonna cut it and this one is a perfect example !


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## John A Willard (Mar 16, 2018)

ropensaddle said:


> Don't be too hard on yourself everyone here had to learn and most here have made mistakes and still do if they are honest. Learning is part of the fun but you must know your limitations. I was a bit uneasy on this one and needless to say I took my time notching ratchet binding the spar to prevent chair and winching plus back up rigging. See sometimes a wedge just ain't gonna cut it and this one is a perfect example !View attachment 639739


Man, there is no way I would have tried that one! One of the first ones I took down was a big Maple. Luckily it was out in the open, because it had a sizeable hollow center. I'm pretty good at rigging Iron and machinery but trees are a little more unpredictable. Some of our best Ironworkers come over from the tree industry. I've been lucky enough to have worked with a few of them and learned a lot from them. The big difference is we are usually erecting not dismantling and we almost always have a crane available. Even then there are plenty of errors made, mostly overestimating the capability of the crane and getting in too big a hurry. I bet you walked around that tree a few times doing the head scratching routine. Glad you got it down without mishap! "A man's got to know his limitations"


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## John A Willard (Mar 16, 2018)

Zale said:


> What everyone else said. Were you wearing chaps, helmet, eye protection, and hearing protection?


Yeah, well I do need to get a pair of chaps. Been doing the research on which ones actually work and not just look cool. There is probably a discussion on here that addresses safety gear. I'm certainly open to suggestions.


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## ATH (Mar 16, 2018)

I really like Labonville chaps...


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## ropensaddle (Mar 16, 2018)

John A Willard said:


> Man, there is no way I would have tried that one! One of the first ones I took down was a big Maple. Luckily it was out in the open, because it had a sizeable hollow center. I'm pretty good at rigging Iron and machinery but trees are a little more unpredictable. Some of our best Ironworkers come over from the tree industry. I've been lucky enough to have worked with a few of them and learned a lot from them. The big difference is we are usually erecting not dismantling and we almost always have a crane available. Even then there are plenty of errors made, mostly overestimating the capability of the crane and getting in too big a hurry. I bet you walked around that tree a few times doing the head scratching routine. Glad you got it down without mishap! "A man's got to know his limitations"


I had a lady ask me if I could put the tree back once after taking it down. I replied sure if money is no object and you know it wont live lol.


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## thetoolnut (Mar 17, 2018)

John A Willard said:


> Yeah, well I do need to get a pair of chaps. Been doing the research on which ones actually work and not just look cool. There is probably a discussion on here that addresses safety gear. I'm certainly open to suggestions.


Forget chaps get a nice pair of saw trousers like the Pfanner Gladiators.

Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk


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## John A Willard (Mar 17, 2018)

ropensaddle said:


> I had a lady ask me if I could put the tree back once after taking it down. I replied sure if money is no object and you know it wont live lol.


I think I could help with reconstructing a dead tree. I'm thinking #9 rebar pins. Haha


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## John A Willard (Mar 18, 2018)

ATH said:


> I really like Labonville chaps...


They Look real, the demo video looks real, and Made in USA!


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## John A Willard (Mar 18, 2018)

thetoolnut said:


> Forget chaps get a nice pair of saw trousers like the Pfanner Gladiators.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk


How are they over blue jeans in the summer?


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## thetoolnut (Mar 18, 2018)

John A Willard said:


> How are they over blue jeans in the summer?


There saw trousers.

Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk


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## ATH (Mar 18, 2018)

If you know you are cutting all day the pants are nice...cooler than chaps (not cool by any means...but not as hot as chaps). They are also more comfortable and don't catch. You wear them instead of pants. I guess you could wear chaps instead of pants too...but won't make many friends that way! Chaps are the way to go if you only need them for a shorter time or will be cutting then take them off to drag brush or load firewood, etc...for a while then put them back on to cut some more.


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## John A Willard (Mar 18, 2018)

ATH said:


> If you know you are cutting all day the pants are nice...cooler than chaps (not cool by any means...but not as hot as chaps). They are also more comfortable and don't catch. You wear them instead of pants. I guess you could wear chaps instead of pants too...but won't make many friends that way! Chaps are the way to go if you only need them for a shorter time or will be cutting then take them off to drag brush or load firewood, etc...for a while then put them back on to cut some more.


Haha, Who needs friends anyway? 
Seriously though, my work will likely be mixed tasks and at my age I like a significant break every couple of hours. Don't always take a break that often but trying to get accustomed to acting like a retired guy.


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## John A Willard (Mar 18, 2018)

thetoolnut said:


> There saw trousers.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk


Got it.


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