# Wanting to start milling



## 00juice (Sep 10, 2006)

Hi,
I am looking to start milling lumber for the first time. I just bought a stihl 066 with out any bars. So, I was planning on buying a bar atleast 36 inches. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on brands. Is it worth buying a stihl bar, or would an oregon be just as good. Also, suggestions on chains. Also, can anyone suggest a book or other reading to help prepare me to get started. Any equipment or idea suggestions would be appreciated. 
Thanks
brian


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## Rail-O-Matic (Sep 10, 2006)

00juice said:


> Hi,
> I am looking to start milling lumber for the first time. I just bought a stihl 066 with out any bars. So, I was planning on buying a bar atleast 36 inches. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on brands. Is it worth buying a stihl bar, or would an oregon be just as good. Also, suggestions on chains. Also, can anyone suggest a book or other reading to help prepare me to get started. Any equipment or idea suggestions would be appreciated.
> Thanks
> brian



Hi 00juice

We have been milling today using a Roller-Matic chainsaw mill with a 30 inch bar and an Ms 660 Stihl, we cut some 3 foot Western Reds today, using Oilomatic 3 ripping chain, we use the saw mill when we cannot reach the big stuff with the Forrestor, this mill gives a full 24 inches wide cutting capacity.
The MS 660 is comfortable using a 30 inch bar, for the really big stuff we use an MS 880 with Cannon 60 inch bars.


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## Rail-O-Matic (Sep 10, 2006)

*More photo's*

Here are some more photo's and a link to the Roller-Matic planking mill pages.

The floating and rising platform is really easy to use, just a quick twist of the handles to adjust thickness of cut and your away again in no time at all.

It also has a side roller underneath the riser post nearest to the saw, which stops the mill from being rammed into the log, this is a must as the whole unit just glides along almost effortlessly, a good all round investment, which will soon pay for itself.

http://www.bagpipeworks.co.uk/rollermatic__railomatic_chain.htm


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## dustytools (Sep 10, 2006)

Hi juice. Do you already have a milling attachment? If not you could look at the granberg type that many of us in here have.I bought mine from right-tool.com. It came with the mill ,slabbing brackets, oiler, 44 inch bar, ripping chain, electric chain sharpener all for a little over $500. I have been very pleased with mine so far.


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## 00juice (Sep 10, 2006)

*kit*

I just wondered, what type of saw you were using with teh 42" bar. Also, what is the doubled ended bar for? Is this package easy to use? Is an additional oiler necessary, or just desirable. Do their bars hold up well. Is right-tool.com the cheapes place to get all of this? Thanks
brian


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## dustytools (Sep 10, 2006)

Ive been running a small Stihl 08S which is a little underpowered for the setup but ive recently ordered a Husky 395XP. Yes this site was the cheapest I could find and I did a lot of research before ordering. The double ended bar is capable of being run by two powerheads if you so desire, but the mill package does come with a helper handle that mounts to the far end of the bar so that you can run just one if you like. The helper handle has a roller in it for the chain to run on, kinda like a roller nose bar. Yes the oiler is a very good idea as it oils the bottom of the bar while the saw oils the top portion. The bar is a sturdy made bar that has held up real well for me so far, not that ive done a whole lot of milling yet, but I hear that Granberg products are very dependable. As for being easy to run , Ive never run anything else to compare it to, but if I can run it easily anyone can. Hope this helps and good luck.


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## 00juice (Sep 10, 2006)

*milling*

Does the mill come with instructions on how to actually get going. How to setup to get the most usable lumber from a log etc.
Thanks


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## dustytools (Sep 10, 2006)

The mill does come with instructions, but they are limited to assembly and general milling such as setting up the mill and making the first pass and so on.It shows you nothing about how to get good lumber from a log, but with a little milling experience im sure you will do fine. A lot of the guys in here will be able to give advice on just about any question that you have. They have really helped me out.


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## carvinmark (Sep 10, 2006)

Hello, welcome to AS.


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## flht01 (Sep 10, 2006)

00juice said:


> Does the mill come with instructions on how to actually get going. How to setup to get the most usable lumber from a log etc.
> Thanks



Welcome aboard, 00juice. A lot of the folks here can/will help with getting the most from each log. The quicker you can learn to post pictures the better, we like pictures.  Start out with a few practice logs, you'll get the hang of it. Also, learn to use the search feature, lots of good posting in the archives.

I'm running a 36" granberg mill with a Stihl 066mag and 36" oregon bar with bailey's ripping chain. It seems to handle it ok but I have to be easy with it on the really big cuts. I can get about a 28" cut with my setup.


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## oldsaw (Sep 10, 2006)

juice, you've come to the right place. 

Bar:

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/731?mv_session_id=CvGz6fTw&product_sku=ORPM%2042%20SS63

Chain:

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1849?mv_session_id=CvGz6fTw&product_sku=WP375%2033RP

You want 136 links, not the 135 that the bar says...don't ask me how I know. Buy at least two, if not three chains.

Mill:

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/496?mv_session_id=CvGz6fTw&product_sku=46778

Lets see, $75 bar, $28 x 3 = $84 chains, $180 mill. $340? oops..$385

On top of that, you will need a couple of 7/32" files, a 10' 2x8 or x10 that is flat/straight, a box of 3"x#8 "zip" screws, a cordless drill with an extra battery, 4 plastic wedges (Bailey's again), forgot the auxiliary oiler ($45), a couple of gallons of bar oil too.

Now, you also could use some "general" equipment as well. Gloves, hearing protection, PPE (safety pants, headgear), a cant hook (www.logrite.com...best on the market, get the 48"), a "come along", some log chain (a couple of 12-15 foot lengths), cut some...okay a bunch of stickers, and make sure you have or get some old paint (anchorseal is better, but I've used paint very successfully to cover the ends of the boards or logs that will be sitting for a while)

Others will add the stuff I forgot, but you get the picture. The learning curve is very steep. You will get the basics figured out 1/2 way through your first log. The rest you will learn over the rest of your life.

Enjoy, I know I sure do.

Mark


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## t_andersen (Sep 11, 2006)

The best book to read is Malloff's book "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" although there is a pull string principle described that nobody seems to use. It's sold out from the publisher so you need to buy it used. It normally sells at 100 $ or so at E-bay so it's pretty expensive.


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## coveredinsap (Sep 11, 2006)

Careful there. Better check with your Stihl dealer on whether they will warrant the saw for use with a chainsaw mill attachment......as some apparently don't. I'd get it in writing (if possible) if I were you.


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## oldsaw (Sep 11, 2006)

coveredinsap said:


> Careful there. Better check with your Stihl dealer on whether they will warrant the saw for use with a chainsaw mill attachment......as some apparently don't. I'd get it in writing (if possible) if I were you.



It's an 066, the warranty is probably all used up. Mine certainly is.
Besides, it doesn't matter, he bought it to mill with.

Juice, Sap bought a Stihl homeowners saw and tried to mill with it, and somehow broke the saw in the mount area. Ever since then he hates Stihl saws and the people who own them. Take Sap with a mine of salt.

Mark


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## 00juice (Sep 11, 2006)

*its a little older*

The 066 i bought is a little older. It is a red eye model. My buddy used it for his tree service. It had used it very little because the 44 was lighter and could handle most work. So, I definately don't have any warranty.
brian


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## oldsaw (Sep 11, 2006)

Brian, 

The 066 is a great milling saw. I only upgraded to a 3120 because of the number of huge logs I kept running into (30"+), which the 066 did, but wasn't too happy with. For the average sized log, you've got one of the best saws for the job.

BTW, I recommended the stuff from Baileys since they are a site sponsor. However, it is exactly the same stuff I use, and the place I buy most of my stuff.

Mark


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## hautions11 (Sep 11, 2006)

*Milling*

Welcome to the sight. I agree with OldSaw on the Baileys plug. I like their ripping chain and own one of their Powermatch bars. I also agree with the 066 comments. I use an 064 and find it good to about 20" of log. Above that it complains a bit. I have an 084 for the bigger stuff, as I tend to run in to 36" oaks all the time. As they get bigger people are more willing to give them away. That is a daunting task with some kind of a 16" homeowners saw. You can also quartersaw the larger logs to get interesting grain, more stable lumber etc. It also takes a 36" log and makes it a 18" cut. Good luck and send lot's of pics.


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## TreeClimbI (Sep 11, 2006)

I recently stared milling (over weekend). I use a MS440 w/24" bar and Alaskan mill, 3/8p oregon chain. Was cutting popple/aspen 8" to 9" wide 1/2" a sec.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 11, 2006)

Welcome!!! Oldsaw about has it all summed up. 

Here is a link to a few pics....

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36470

I use a 660, 28" bar, and a GB 36" mill. Most of what I do is hardwoods, as thats what I can get free almost as much as I want. 

You can also play with your chains. I recommend Baileys as well, for supplies. Here is a link to chain modifying....

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36472

And Another....

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=35585

Lots of info here, and if it hadnt been for this site, I would never have bought a 660 and a CSM!!


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 11, 2006)

Some pics of what can be done when you cut your own lumber!!

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=33944


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 11, 2006)

t_andersen said:


> The best book to read is Malloff's book "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" although there is a pull string principle described that nobody seems to use. It's sold out from the publisher so you need to buy it used. It normally sells at 100 $ or so at E-bay so it's pretty expensive.



I recomend this book for beginers as well. Shop amazon, B&N, and other internet book sites. I picked mine up for only $30.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 11, 2006)

Welcome to AS 00juice and treeclimb1. There is a wealth of knowledge here so grab a 6'er of you favorite cold ones and start reading from the top  Feel free to ask anything but beware of the trolls.:notrolls2:


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## 00juice (Sep 12, 2006)

*Mill Size*

Being that I have an 066 is it reasonable, maybe not perfect, reasonable to have a 42" bar and a 36" mill. Also, according to some info I saw somewhere, a 36" mill should have 80-90 cc's. And 20 cc's more if using a double ended bar. obviously my saw won't hit 110 cc's mark to have a 36" mill and double ended bar. Rambling on a bit, but. Can I put a 42" double ended bar on my 066 with a 36" mill and not destroy my saw?
Thanks,
Brian


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 12, 2006)

Sure you can. Ive been thinking about getting a 42" bar for my 660. That way I can use all of my 36" mill.

Carvingmark uses a 42" bar on his 395. And those two saws are right next to each other in the cut.


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## thompson1600 (Sep 12, 2006)

the 066 will pull a big bar, however, I find that for most of my milling I use a 20" bar on my 066. Unless you are cutting some really big trees, most of your milling will be either edging cant's or cutting the can't into lumber (unless your doing through and through milling). The reason I stick to the shorter bars, I have a 16", a 20" and a 25" that is used occasionally. I also have a 36" for the 066 I can use on a big stump or burl, but that is really rare.

The other reason I like shorter bars (and you can still get a 36" Alaskan mill and use a short bar) is that it's a lot less sharpening in the field. I can run full comp chain (smoother cut) and still use a file to sharpen every few cuts pretty quickly.

I know there is a debate about short or long bars. Just thought I would let you know you can run shorter bars and still mill. With a 20" bar on an Alaskan mill I can still get almost an 18" wide cut. I don't get many trees that can be cut into an 18" wide cant. Those are some wide boards.


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## 00juice (Sep 13, 2006)

*double powerheads*

Just sort of curious about running double powerheads. I've seen mention of it in this message forum. Do both powerheads have to be teh same model/size. Do they need to be synchonized some how. If they are not perfectly synchronized, couldn't they start to fight each other, and put lots of strain on the powerheads. Any thoughts?
Brian


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## 00juice (Sep 14, 2006)

*Buying a Granberg*

Hi all. 
I'm ready to buy a granberg mill. I'll be using my 066 and figured i'd go for the 36" mill. A couple questions before I buy. Is it worth having the double-end bar and end handle. Right-tool.com has the kit: 44" double end bar, 36" mill, slabbing brackets, oiler, double-end bar helper handle, ripping chain and chain grinder for $530. The bar is accounting $225 of that setup price. Should I consider it, or should i be just fine with a regular bar. If I'm getting a bar to maximize the 36" mill, should I stick to a 36" bar, or should I go a little larger to say 42"? I have some big pieces of cherry that I want to make some table tops from. Right now, the bar I have is a 36", but it is bent, and will need to be replaced. Does anyone have a preference toward stihl bars over aftermarket. What brand would you all recommend. I'm trying to keep things as cheap as possible, but I do want to get the most from the mill. I have never done any milling and have never seen anyone do it. Suggestions now would be greatly appreciated. I hope to place my order tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks
Brian


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## dustytools (Sep 14, 2006)

I believe that if you buy the rest of the stuff that is included in the package separately with out the bar you would still be around the $530. Trust me, the bar that comes with the set-up is a very good, heavy duty bar that is already drilled for the auxillary oiler and ready to go. I think that you will be pleased if you decide to go with the set-up


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## 00juice (Sep 14, 2006)

*granberg*

Dusty,
Do you use the extra handle for then end very often? Is it helpful?
Brian


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## dustytools (Sep 14, 2006)

No I dont use it as I am a one man operation. The only purpose that it serves for me is something for the chain to turn on. BTW if you do decide to buy your bar separately they have a 44 inch titanium bar on ebay under stihl chainsaws on about the fourth page for around $77 plus about $16 shipping. I cant remember what brand it is.


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## 00juice (Sep 14, 2006)

*thanks*

Thanks,
I'll check it out
brian


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## dustytools (Sep 14, 2006)

The bar is a GB brand bar and it has a $80 buy it now price tag plus the shipping.


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