# New Dolmar/Makita 6100 questions and suggestions.



## TXGUY (Feb 16, 2017)

Greetings everyone,

I'm new to chainsaws and this forum as well. I just bought a Makita 6100 and was wondering what's the best spare bar and chain to buy for cutting in particularly sandy terrain. I've heard that Tsumura super bars are pretty up there (as well as the price). 

I'm in the process of buying 30 acres down here in TX and it is DEEPLY wooded. We'll be using back hoes and mini excavators for clearing a trail and taking down the larger cedars, but I'll be using a chainsaw for the "detail" work (clearing in between the oaks and pines). 

Question: Is the 6100 a good choice or should I go bigger? I just returned an ECHO 590 because it was having a hard time getting through an 18-20" oak. In it's defense, it was oddly solid. My mother in-law also asked me to cut a square hole around the core of a cedar stump and make her a flower pot. It didn't do to well on that task either.

I thank y'all in advance for your input.


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## Mustang71 (Feb 17, 2017)

Do you only have one saw? I don't know very much about the makita saw other than they are a quality saw. Regardless of size of saw I always bring 2 or more cause when you get one stuck in a tree you will wish you had another one. If you search the makita/dolmar saws I'm sure you will find a lot of info.


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## Tenderfoot (Feb 17, 2017)

Sandy terrain likely means sand in the bark. That means dully chains. A 6100 is not a load stronger then the echo 590. IT will pull better but not a whole lot. 

For a new user I would suggest getting a cheap Oregon bar. By the time you wear that and the factory bar out you will have the skills that the higher quality bars will actually last in your hands.


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## TXGUY (Feb 18, 2017)

Mustang71, 
Yes I have a smaller Husqvarna for limbing the branches, and you're absolutely correct. I actually got stuck while bucking a large cedar out of all things. The extra saw is a must, especsially for noobies like me.

Tenderfoot,
The saw came in yesterday. After I let it warm, I gave it a function test on an old peach log. It does seem like the 6100 has some significant power over the 590. But like you said, the trees out on my future property have sand; the peach tree was grown in the suburbs. Probably not a good comparison. I did buy some files to sharpen the chains. I'm familiar with files,0 so it's not to much of a chore to do (10 mins).

I read that the 6400 has more room for upgrades, but it's only .1hp stronger and 1pound heavier. Is it worth the extra $100 just in case I get upgrade crazy, as I do with my rifles? Think I just answered my own question...

I actually bought an extra Oregon bar and chain for back up. 

One last thing:
I heard that its good to break in a new saw with 40:1 mix (sometimes lower) and run the engine hard with a load. Also, I heard that chainsaws are to be ran at WOT. 
Is this sound advise or old timer legend?

Thanks for the advise fellas! I really appreciate it.


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## Mustang71 (Feb 18, 2017)

I'm not sure where u are getting ur prices from but I'm looking at Amazon and it lists the 6400 for 715$ on up for that price I'd keep the 6100 and buy a stihl ms660 they can be upgraded too. That's a 7hp saw. I'm no expert just cut firewood to heat my home and have gotten a few saws stuck over the years.


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## jd548esco72 (Feb 18, 2017)

i have a makita 6100 , and a timberwolf 590 with a slight re-tune on the carb and a mild muffler mod-- 

out of the box the 6100 is quite a bit stronger .

either is enough to pull a 24" bar with little effort, it should be all you need with a sharp chain. 

the 6100 is very strong out of the box it is probably stronger than the 620P echo. 

the makita dolmar is one of the strongest 60cc saws out there -- to get more grunt your going to have to move up to a 70cc class saw like a ms440 or a 372XP--

and even they don't run off and leave a 6100 running a 20"--

the extra HP don't show up that much till you get a 24" bar or longer. 

has your timberwold still got the limiter caps on the carb? if so pull them and re-tune the carb-- open the muffler screen and possible give the muffler a new port--

most importantly have a sharp chisel type of chain on there with the rackers at the proper height. 

no saw of any make will cut well with those crappy box store safety chains a lot of saws come with. 

my timberwolf eats up 20" oaks --so something is amiss here with the chains-- the makita 6100 i got did come with that horrible safety chain , i didn't even try to use it -- i just pulled it off and put a semi-chisel on there--

my timberwolf i bought three years ago came with a good chisel chain-- but there are quite a few that were boxed up with those same crap chains that came with the makitas---

probably all you need is some good chains---


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## Tenderfoot (Feb 18, 2017)

@TXGUY The 6400 is a far stronger saw. No doubt. It is all torque. I had one for a while and upgraded it to a 7900 top end. The 6400 walked all over my 6100. The 6100 is a great saw regardless. I am on my second bar in in 6 months on mine. I broke mine in with regular 50:1. Saws really like being run at WOT and you really don't have many situations to be at part throttle. The slipping is hard on the clutch. 

But sharp chains are a must. Just because you can file other things well, doesn't mean you can sharpen chains well. I thought I was good with a file, still do, but trying to sharpen chains humbled me a bit. You need to know what a tooth should look like in addition to getting all the angles just so, plus the depth gauges. I would really recommend the husky roller guide, the package set comes with a good file handle too. Good guide and a good tool. They don't work too great when you have the chain half wore out, but most folks toss them by that point. Woodland pro files from Baileys are my favorite. And depth gauge files are a must, the husky roller guide comes with one. That should be enough to get you started. The factory chain on them actually cuts pretty well. But you have to work harder when you set the depth gauges. If you are in Texas sand will be a constant problem and you will probably get real good at filing if you take the time to be careful and learn it right.


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## TXGUY (Feb 19, 2017)

Tenderfoot- everything you said makes perfect sense. I actually bought a half chisel off Amazon before the saw arrived, but the dolmar chain that it came with looks identicle, so I probably lucked out. The echo had the safety chains out the box. 

I think mastering sharpening techniques will in fact compensate for hp. But you kinda talked me into the 6400...lol I just might give this one to my father in law. I don't have lots of $ but he kinda fell in love with it after he used it yesterday. I cut an oak stump in half (going against the long grain) to see if I could use the saw for light saw milling, and it actually did a pretty good job. Guess I'll be using the Orange version next weekend. Why are chainsaws so darn addicting? 

My theory: us Texans have been cutting cedars for so long; it's in our DNA [emoji23]

Thanks again y'all!

Sent from my SM-G928T using Tapatalk


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## Tenderfoot (Feb 19, 2017)

The 6100 is an easier saw to run. The 6400 weighs more and uses a lot more fuel. If you don't need it,save the money for bills. The 6100 will cover 95% of what I do and I cut firewood for a living now.


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## blades (Feb 19, 2017)

If anything new saws comeingdown the pike are tuned lean - which is hard on them- do not run a 40/1 mix that will just compound things. Best is to re-tune saw just a bit fat out of the cut.( takes a competent dealer to accomplish that) There has been mention across the board of saw mfg. about units being tuned, in as shipped form, too lean in order to meet EPA requirements.


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