# Timberline Chainsaw Sharpeners???



## goosedowner (Jan 27, 2012)

I know some of the forum members have bought these and I was wondering now that they have had them a while how do you like it.
I'm not that great with the files and I really don't want to buy an electric sharpener so these seem like a good idea for me???
How would you rate the Timberline Sharpener?
Any dislikes?

Thanks
Lee


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## deye223 (Jan 27, 2012)

how could you not be happy with this
there are others that have modified it and so on but all in all i think most are happy with it. so far i think the chain stays sharp a little longer because it sharpens without leaveing any burs


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## dwraisor (Jan 27, 2012)

I am happy with it. The first time you use it on a chain it will require a bit od patience, as once set it will shorten all cutters to the same length. Now I don’t take the tim to find the shortest. I set it and sharpen the cutters, if I find one that is too short, I reset and basically start over w/ that cutter as the starting point. I went around my first loop a couple times as it was pretty butchered from the various attempts at master...um...er learning to hand file. 

The cutters have a slight taper, and use this to your advantage in shortening the longer cutters work it in slowly, do not force the cutter in as this will only lift the jig out of position in the bar...

This thing will show you how good (or bad) your hand filing has been, correct your angles and out IMHO easily put an out of box edge on your chain.

One thing anoth member asked, and I have been meaning to try, is putting the cutter in my die-grinder and seeing what that would do. I would think the high cutter velocity would make it less likely to lift the jig on the long cutters, than need to be shortened.


dw


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## nixon (Jan 27, 2012)

I'm very happy with mine . I use it to true up my chains as was mentioned above . Take a look in this forum for a thread with the title of " new chain sharpener " if IIRC .


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## deye223 (Jan 27, 2012)

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180488.htm


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## MacLaren (Jan 27, 2012)

I would certainly recommend one. They are nicely made too.


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## Hedgerow (Jan 27, 2012)

deye223 said:


> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180488.htm



How do they last so far? Any wear issues at all?


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## deye223 (Jan 27, 2012)

Hedgerow said:


> How do they last so far? Any wear issues at all?



well i have not used it much only use it for the 25" bar but i don't think i would put the bur in a drill or similar device as the bushes are alloy, i put a drop of oil on it makes it smoother to crank, it works ok on 404 and it's a walk in the park on 3/8


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## DarkTimber (Jan 27, 2012)

just listening


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## Evanrude (Jan 27, 2012)

I'm thinking of picking one of these up. I read somewhere, and that may be in the other thread, that they're on back order. Maybe they will come out with an improved gen2? I haven't contacted Timberline yet though. Probably just hear-say. Anyone know if they're still doing a promo discount?


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## Hedgerow (Jan 28, 2012)

Evanrude said:


> I'm thinking of picking one of these up. I read somewhere, and that may be in the other thread, that they're on back order. Maybe they will come out with an improved gen2? I haven't contacted Timberline yet though. Probably just hear-say. Anyone know if they're still doing a promo discount?



I just like the carbide cutting of these... No heat AND precision... I worry about consumable availability though... How long these folks been in business??? Anyone know?:msp_confused:


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## artmo (Jan 28, 2012)

Have had mine for a month and like it a lot. practise with an old chain to get the feel for it and sharpen away! art


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## Evanrude (Jan 28, 2012)

Hedge, as far as I know, they just started selling them last year.


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## Hedgerow (Jan 28, 2012)

Evanrude said:


> Hedge, as far as I know, they just started selling them last year.



Well it's one of those situations where I'd gladly plunk down the dollars for one, cause I like the concept so much, but don't want to be left with a $150 tool with wore out bushings and cutters, and no company to re-order them from...


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## blkcloud (Jan 30, 2012)

Hedgerow said:


> Well it's one of those situations where I'd gladly plunk down the dollars for one, cause I like the concept so much, but don't want to be left with a $150 tool with wore out bushings and cutters, and no company to re-order them from...



The carbide bit are a off the shelf item, no big deal.. the bushings.. if you didnt try and use a die grinder and kept the hand crank on there.. I dont see you ever wearing them out.. if you did wear them out, replacing them doesnt look like that big of a deal.. press out the old on..press in a new one.. more than likely they are a off the shelf bushing.. I have ran a machine shop for 30 years..IMO.. not many companies go to the expense these days of making custom sized parts so you have to buy from them replacement parts.. I'm ordering me one!!


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## weekendcutter (Jan 30, 2012)

I just purchased a timberline sharpener. I ordered it last Sunday online & had it at my house in PA on Wed. After reading thru the 20 pages of the other thread on this sharpener I decided to buy one, as my hand sharpening skills leave a LOT to be desired. Let me start by saying I recently tried to hand sharpen the chain on my MS 290 & must have really messed it up.. It was IMPOSSIBLE for me to make a straight cut, my slices looked like the moon I got the new sharpener & went to work on the chain. As a previous poster had said.. you need to have patience the first time.. as all my cutters were all over the place at different lengths & angles. It took me a while to get the 20" chain straightened up... but the next day I went cutting & it cut GREAT.. as good if not better than new.

I will add that as I was cutting the next day, the saw cut good all day but towards the end a log rolled as I was cutting & I hit a rock which dulled the chain considerably.. That night, it only took me like 15 minutes to the get the chain back in shape again. 

Overall, so far I am very happy with this purchase.


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## nixon (Jan 30, 2012)

Welcome to A/ S and to the world of those that can't tell the difference between 25* and 45* on a chain :smile2: all kidding aside, the Timberline is a good tool . Great for Trueing a chain after a couple of filings .


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## Hedgerow (Jan 30, 2012)

I may have found my next acquisition... I'll stew on it for a while...


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## MacLaren (Feb 10, 2012)

Hedgerow said:


> I may have found my next acquisition... I'll stew on it for a while...



I really think you would be well pleased with one.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk


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## MacLaren (Feb 10, 2012)

Tapatalk is awesome 

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk


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## benp (Feb 10, 2012)

I really like mine ALOT....

But I am having one issue....Wear on the stop....







Anyone else have this? I mentioned it before in one of my posts. 

I will send the picture to Timberline and see what they say. 

The chunks are bilateral because of me swapping the stop to both sides. 

I plan on getting the 13/64 cutter due to the one thread of 13/64 sharpened chain cuts a little better than 7/32. For curiosity's sake.


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## Sawin (Feb 11, 2012)

My pawl is also chewed up. But it still works fine. I was going to grind off some on the pawl, and mentioned this to Rootstock. He sent me another one to play with.:msp_biggrin:

It never did pan out for me, and opens up utter problems.

I just use it and and if I hit it with the carbide, no biggie. I don't foresee the pawl being eaten away enough to warrant replacement...yet(?).


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## Eric106 (Feb 11, 2012)

blkcloud said:


> The carbide bit are a off the shelf item, no big deal..



Do you know of another source for the cutters?

They seem very specific to this application.

-Eric


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## StihlNAlberta (Nov 2, 2012)

*Timberline*

I emailed them to ask about degrees but no reply. They offer an additional piece that can file at 25 and 35 deg. Are these set up for only 30 deg. Without the additional part? Looks like a handy tool but the extras add up. Thx.


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## dwraisor (Nov 2, 2012)

StihlNAlberta said:


> I emailed them to ask about degrees but no reply. They offer an additional piece that can file at 25 and 35 deg. Are these set up for only 30 deg. Without the additional part? Looks like a handy tool but the extras add up. Thx.



Yes, out of the box they only do 30 degrees. To get 25 or 35 you must order those specific bushings. They swap easy enough, but you have to buy them separately.


dw


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## snoozeys (Sep 23, 2014)

I like the look of them but I can't justify the price


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## Natty Bumppo (Sep 24, 2014)

I've been using one for over a year now and hae been happy with it. Most of the time I can get a chain sharper with the Timberline than I can hand filing. Once in a while my Timberline mojo leaves me and I can tell when I'm sharpening that the pieces are not falling into place.

The cutters come at the teeth straight on. Some chains, maybe full chisel especially, I thought recommended tilting the file down 5-10 degrees when sharpening. The Timberline jig won't do this. Still, it seems to do a good job with its design.


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## snoozeys (Sep 24, 2014)

If I can find one cheap enough I would get one


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## MGoBlue (Sep 24, 2014)

Be very careful with how much bite you take.


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## snoozeys (Sep 24, 2014)

Ewww that doesn't look good


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## MGoBlue (Sep 24, 2014)

Take *very *light passes. If you rock a chain, don't use the Timberline. Pretty sure that is what started the issue with that cutter. Then I kept using it as long as I could because they aren't cheap.


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## fields_mj (Feb 26, 2015)

Question, do you need and entirely different devise for different chain sizes, or just different cutters? 

FWIW - My dad has a similar device that he bought back in the '70s. He loved using it until he could no longer find the carbide cutters. I drew up one of his worn cutters in Autocad (2D) and contacted a few shops that make carbide burs. They were willing to make some for him, but they needed to make a few dozen to make the cost reasonable. We never pulled the trigger on it. If Timberline does go under, we can collectively pool up an order for some and have one of these shops make them for us for a pretty reasonable cost. I'm going to contact them and see if thier burrs will fit dad's old unit. If so, I'm certainly going to order one for myself, along with a few cutters for him.


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## nixon (Feb 26, 2015)

fields_mj said:


> Question, do you need and entirely different devise for different chain sizes, or just different cutters?.


You can get different cutters . They come in 5/32 ,3/16 ,13/64 ,and 7/32 if memory serves . They are about $20 each .


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## WS6Man (Feb 26, 2015)

I have had mine almost a year and my only problem is I am somehow not getting the sharpener set up correctly on new chains. After the I sharpen the first 3-4 times, I notice that the hook is less pronounced because the bit was not low enough in the gullet. I have solved this by using my hand file the first two times and Going to the timberline after with great results. I recently went back and read the instructions and they do address this issue but I have yet to use another new chain since. It points out some new chains have a pronounced burr at the base of the gullet that may cause the bit from being positioned correctly. 

Any one have this issue and if so do you have any tips I can try on my next chain?


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## Full Chisel (Feb 26, 2015)

I use a Granberg File'n'Joint and can't see where spending another $100 on a Timberline would be beneficial. The Granberg sharpens very well and being able to adjust the side and top plate angle is an advantage. Plus, files are cheap and readily available.

It's a bit clanky at first but once you get the hang of it you end up with very consistent and sharp cutters. Not bad for $35...


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## heyduke (Feb 26, 2015)

i've had my timberline for more than two years and i really like it. it makes a sharper chain the either a file or a grinder. i haven't used the grandburg but i have used the oregon version of the same filing jig and it can't come close the the timberline. i use an oregon 510 for friend's chains and a tractor supply clone for depth guages. i also use the 510 for repairing damaged chain, which isn't fun with the timberline, but for my fleet of 3/8" and low-pro equipped saws (don't ask me how many, i'm worse than imelda and her shoes) i use the timberline. i don't miss the lack of the legendary 10 deg. it doesn't seem to matter. not only are the cutters sharper but the edge lasts longer, maybe because they are much smoother or perhaps due to the the metal staying cool. it's also nice to have something better than a file to use in the field on the tailgate.

there are some downsides. when the top plate gets too short the burr hits the chain stop as noted in previous posts. and it's a good idea to lower the gullets with a file or grinder occasionally. the 5/32" burrs are delicate and easy to break while sharpening. take light cuts! don't ask me how i know. you can tell when you're done by the way the chips accumulate on the edge of the top plate.

over the more than two years i've had it i've worn out one 7/32" burr and broken one 5/32" burr. i usually sharpen my chains after a day's work. so they've had a lot of use. burrs will last a lot longer if you refrain from using them on a damaged or poorly sharpened chain, and, voice of experience, almost any chain that has been filed falls into that category. if you can, use a grinder to true things up, then use the timberline. otherwise just take multiple *light* cuts until things true up. one more thing, it works great on .404.

timberline's customer service earns a 10.


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## michael j (Feb 26, 2015)

I got one to true up my chains. I chuck the bit in my cordless drill and set it on the lowest speed.


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## fields_mj (Feb 27, 2015)

I typically hand file with the stanard cheap Stihl file gauge set up that mounts to the file, and I do it every time I fill up the tank. So long as I haven't messed up and stuck it in the dirt, it normally only takes a stroke or two on each cutter, and it doesn't take me any longer to do that than it would to swap out chains. Having said that, I also have my bench vise set up so that it will quickly bolt to my tailgate, and that makes all the difference in the world when it comes to hand filing. I've also got the Oregon clone of the Granberg. I started out with it, and it's okay but I just found it to be too clunky and cumbersome to take with me in the woods. Works well for trueing up a chain every once in a while, but I've gotten to where I just never use it. I mainly run .325 chain, and this process has worked well for me on them. However, my big saw runs 404 chain, and I do have problems with it. More steel to take off, so the Timberline looks very appealing for that one. 

As I previously mentioned, dad has one of these units that he bought back in the late 70's or early 80's. It looks very similar to the Timberline. It's quick, does a great job, keeps the cutters very consistant, and the bar doesn't have to be nearly as secure as when hand filing. Still good to have it in a stump vise or something, but the unit is a lot more forgiving than when hand fileing. The learning curve is also a lot better....  I think I'm going to have to get one.


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## fields_mj (Mar 2, 2015)

The one my dad bought back in the late 70's was called an Arnold Chain Saw Sharpener and was made by Juncker Products.







Looks like it uses the same cutters. Dad liked it for the same reasons everyone else has mentioned. Easy to use, no heat in the cutter, extremely sharp, and every cutter is exactly the same.


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## SteveSS (Mar 2, 2015)

On Timberline's site they have two different cutter sizes for 3/8 chain, depending on if you're running stihl chain or another brand. The cutter sizes are 1/64 different. Does 1/64 bigger or smaller really make a difference? It could save a guy $20 if he could get away with just buying one of the two. Thoughts?


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## Hedgerow (Mar 2, 2015)

SteveSS said:


> On Timberline's site they have two different cutter sizes for 3/8 chain, depending on if you're running stihl chain or another brand. The cutter sizes are 1/64 different. Does 1/64 bigger or smaller really make a difference? It could save a guy $20 if he could get away with just buying one of the two. Thoughts?


Many people just use one or the other for files also..


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## SteveSS (Mar 2, 2015)

Sweet! Thanks, Matt.


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## MGoBlue (Mar 2, 2015)

I makes a difference IMO. 5.2 is a better fit (13/64) for Stihl, which is all I use. Again, just my .02


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## Cyberspaceking (Mar 19, 2015)

Just got one this week, been messing around with it all day.
It's very well made and does a really good job. I was previously sharpening by hand and this tool helped me to realize what a lousy job I had been doing.


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## snoozeys (Jun 9, 2015)

Cyberspaceking said:


> Just got one this week, been messing around with it all day.
> It's very well made and does a really good job. I was previously sharpening by hand and this tool helped me to realize what a lousy job I had been doing.


I used mine for the first time few days ... took abit to set it up ... i ended up doing 2 runs on each side ... yet to test the saw and see if its as sharp as i hope !!

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


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## Edge & Engine (Jun 9, 2015)

I have a used Timberline for sale, used very little. Comes with new accessory 25* & 30* angle guides, a 7/32" cutter and a 13/64" cutter. The 7/32" cutter is damaged because the original owner (not me) tried to take off too much in one pass and chipped the carbide, it looks like post #29 on this thread except not quite as bad. This cutter may or may not work, plan on replacing it. Or just use the brand new 13/64" cutter on your 3/8" chain. Comes with original carry case etc. $75 takes it and I'll even ship it for no extra charge. PM me if interested.


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## snoozeys (Jun 9, 2015)

Think i need to get a smaller carbide to use with my stihl saw ... destroying the carbide is my one concern when using the timberline

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


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## SteveSS (Jun 9, 2015)

@Edge & Engine is a solid cat to do business with. I bought a saw from him a couple months ago and it was better than described.


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## peters (Jun 10, 2015)

If you put a little cutting oil on the carbide cutters it works much better. I have some "tap magic" that I use which works good. Put a drop on every 4 teeth or so.

Also, I have the optional 35 degree bushings, but have modified them so the 5 degree angle is applied to the top, so I get 30 degree side angle and 5 degree top angle.
You just need to drill a new "dimple" locations for the set screw that holds the bushing in.


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## snoozeys (Jun 10, 2015)

It got a bit messy of sorts by the time i had finished with the filings and oil sticking together ... just cleaned it up with compressed air ... today im testing the test the saw to see if i did any good !!!

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


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## angelo c (Jun 10, 2015)

Edge & Engine said:


> I have a used Timberline for sale, used very little. Comes with new accessory 25* & 30* angle guides, a 7/32" cutter and a 13/64" cutter. The 7/32" cutter is damaged because the original owner (not me) tried to take off too much in one pass and chipped the carbide, it looks like post #29 on this thread except not quite as bad. This cutter may or may not work, plan on replacing it. Or just use the brand new 13/64" cutter on your 3/8" chain. Comes with original carry case etc. $75 takes it and I'll even ship it for no extra charge. PM me if interested.



It won't last 10 minutes in the chainsaw f/s section...I bought one for $125 and was very happy. I'd of wet muhself for $75


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## Edge & Engine (Jun 11, 2015)

Thanks to everyone that responded, but yes the Timberline is sold.
Kyle


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## heyduke (Oct 11, 2016)

Hedgerow said:


> I just like the carbide cutting of these... No heat AND precision... I worry about consumable availability though... How long these folks been in business??? Anyone know?:msp_confused:


i think i've had mine for five years. i need new cutters i go to 
https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/shop
they'r in my po box a few days later. timberline is a great outfit to do business with. nothing will get your chain sharper.


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## Philbert (Oct 11, 2016)

Link to related threads:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-chain-sharpener.180488/

Philbert


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## Jeffkrib (Oct 12, 2016)

So Philbert & Heyduke, I currently only have files and basic file guides for my firewood saws. I'm happy with my results but from time to time i should really get all the angles correctly reset.
In your expert humble opinions would I be better of investing in a grinder or a timberline for the 'resetting' task. Also for fixing damaged chains which have hit something in the wood.
Does the timberline fill the role of a file or a grinder?
Ta
Jeff

Edit, 
I started reading your posted link Philbert and found my answer on page 38...... I'll start saving for a grinder!


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## angelo c (Oct 12, 2016)

Jeffkrib said:


> So Philbert & Heyduke, I currently only have files and basic file guides for my firewood saws. I'm happy with my results but from time to time i should really get all the angles correctly reset.
> In your expert humble opinions would I be better of investing in a grinder or a timberline for the 'resetting' task. Also for fixing damaged chains which have hit something in the wood.
> Does the timberline fill the role of a file or a grinder?
> Ta
> ...



jeff,
A decent grinder will cost you 3x as much as the timberline. much of the variability options of the grinder can be matched with the TL. and let me know when you can carry the grinder to the jobsite/woods. each has their own benefits, I have both and use both depending on where and what I have to do that day.


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## heyduke (Oct 12, 2016)

Jeffkrib said:


> So Philbert & Heyduke, I currently only have files and basic file guides for my firewood saws. I'm happy with my results but from time to time i should really get all the angles correctly reset.
> In your expert humble opinions would I be better of investing in a grinder or a timberline for the 'resetting' task. Also for fixing damaged chains which have hit something in the wood.
> Does the timberline fill the role of a file or a grinder?
> Ta
> ...


i hate either/or questions. the obvious answer is *both.* neither a file or timberline are the best choice for damage repair. that's where a grinder shines. if you don't want to spend money on a grinder, take the chain to a shop. tractor supply is selling their oregon clone for $139. i like the oregon/tecomec grinder better but the clone works fine too. philbert has some great thoughts on sharpening but i disagree with him on one point. the timberline is more than a tool for maintaining a chain. it is a tool that will make your chain sharper than it was out of the box. i know their are a few hombres on this site who claim that can do the same with a file but you'll never see vids or fotos to support their claims. i like to sharpen with a timberline after unloading the truck and opening a beer. i often use the timberline on a new chain. so0metimes i will hit the cutters with a grinder first to lower the gullets for better chip removal.

regarding filing, in general. the first time you use a timberline on an old chain you will discover how poor your skills as a filer really are.

regarding angelo c's comments above, i don't usually carry any sharpening equipment on the job. well maybe there's a file and guide somewhere in my tool bag. i always take a back up saw and one or two extra chains. i don't like wrenching on saws in the field. it looks bad.


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## Philbert (Oct 12, 2016)

Jeffkrib said:


> So Philbert & Heyduke, I currently only have files and basic file guides for my firewood saws. I'm happy with my results but from time to time i should really get all the angles correctly reset. In your expert humble opinions would I be better of investing in a grinder or a timberline for the 'resetting' task.


 A lot depends on your use and preferences.

I have a grinder. I like grinders. But I justified the $300 investment because: 1) I was sharpening a lot of chains for some storm clean up up groups that I volunteer with, which are really hard on chains; and 2) I wanted one (full disclosure). 

As the fella that disagrees with me (post above) mentions, you can buy a less expensive, 'clone' grinder for as little as $100, or even a mini-grinder for as little as $30 (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/). These can meet your needs for occasional sharpening use, reseting cutter angles, or 'evening out' chains. Some guys will do this to shape the cutters, then follow up with a file to get the edge they prefer.

Before I owned a grinder I purchased the 'pro' model Oregon clamp on file guide (https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/BarMountFileGuide.htm). Similar to the Granberg file guides, this can be a tad confusing to set up at first, but once learned, provides extremely consistent, sharp, uniform cutters. Some people use these as their only filing / sharpening method, and some carry these in the field. If you don't mind spending a few minutes filing, this could be a good option for you to consider.

More info in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Oct 12, 2016)

I grind sharpen 95% of the time with my Oregon 511a. But, when I really want to do a fabulous job and have the time to do it, I pull out the Timberline. It's a perfect sharpening tool for a perfectionist.

However, I would have to see data showing that any saw's cutting speed actually improves significantly compared to a grind-sharpened or file-sharpened chain. To design an experiment that would prove that is likely impossible. That's primarily because the skills of the operator are deeply involved in all cases.


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## Philbert (Oct 12, 2016)

Wood Doctor said:


> I would have to see data showing that any saw's cutting speed actually improves significantly compared to a grind-sharpened or file-sharpened chain. To design an experiment that would prove that is likely impossible.


I think that it would be possible under lab conditions, but we don't work in those conditions.

As stated before, '_sharper_' and '_faster_' is not always '_better'_; sometimes you want a longer lasting cutting edge, or different angles for different conditions. This is one of the inherent limitations of the Timberline - you have a choice of a few, fixed angles (with the accessory guides), which is fine for most basic cutting. But if you are really interested in optimizing performance, under different cutting conditions, different wood, etc., the ability to modify angles with a hand file, the Granberg type filing jigs, or a full featured grinder becomes an advantage.

Philbert


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## Jeffkrib (Oct 13, 2016)

I think a file and a grider will be a better combo for me than a file and a timberline. Also stuff it just spend the money on a good grinder and it should last a life time and have no regrets. That said I'll be paying double or more what you guys pay in the states and I'm pretty sure we don't earn double as much so it could be an expensive exercise..
Thanks for the opinions guys.


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## Firefighter400 (Nov 21, 2016)

deye223 said:


> well i have not used it much only use it for the 25" bar but i don't think i would put the bur in a drill or similar device as the bushes are alloy, i put a drop of oil on it makes it smoother to crank, it works ok on 404 and it's a walk in the park on 3/8


Hello I do have a question about my timberline sharpener I'm not sure if the chains I'm sharpening are just beat up from not being sharpened but I'm using the correct cutter and angle but yet it doesn't seem to cut the whole tooth just a section Im not sure if that's from previous people using a file and not doing it correctly?


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## Firefighter400 (Nov 21, 2016)

MacLaren said:


> I really think you would be well pleased with one.
> 
> Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk


Hello I do have a question about my timberline sharpener I'm not sure if the chains I'm sharpening are just beat up from not being sharpened but I'm using the correct cutter and angle but yet it doesn't seem to cut the whole tooth just a section Im not sure if that's from previous people using a file and not doing it correctly?


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## Philbert (Nov 21, 2016)

Welcome to A.S.!

Photos would help describe your problem.

Philbert


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## badalley (May 30, 2019)

I have used the electric sharpeners , so cannot say about the Timberline Sharpeners.But I bought mine after reading from https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/. There information is quite accurate and you can see other possible options also.


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## Philbert (Jun 1, 2019)

badalley said:


> But I bought mine after reading from https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/.
> There information is quite accurate and you can see other possible options also.



Problem with that article, and many similar reviews, is that they select and list just one product from each "type" of sharpening device. They do not compare similar grinders, similar file guides, similar sharpening jigs, etc.

Lots of good choices out there.

Philbert


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