# Huztle MS361



## jackjcc (Oct 24, 2016)

Check last night and tracking said it was in customs...guess not




I'm gonna eat dinner and then start unpacking it. 








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## Deleted member 135597 (Oct 24, 2016)

Ho


jackjcc said:


> Check last night and tracking said it was in customs...guess not
> 
> View attachment 533198
> 
> ...


how much was it with shipping


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## jackjcc (Oct 24, 2016)

$212 I think


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## trboxman (Oct 24, 2016)

I'll be watching this one with interest.


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## jackjcc (Oct 24, 2016)

I have a lot going on, so it will be a few days before I can start getting into it. 


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## trboxman (Oct 24, 2016)

LOL, I can relate so much that it isn't even funny...


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 24, 2016)

Wonder how much for a 660?


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## trboxman (Oct 24, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Wonder how much for a 660?



Unless something changed from a month or so ago, for a single saw add $100 to the current price to cover shipping.


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## jackjcc (Oct 24, 2016)

Unboxing!! I'm pointing out what I think sucks, if it looks fine I moved on. I'll come back to things as the build goes. 

Air filter...throw it away, mine came pre cut. I'll email them about this. 





Stihl really made a muffler like this? I've seen this style on poulans, exhaust port is out the back and the deflector redirects it back out front. Not a fan of it being stuck together. 





Paint chips all over the case halves. 





3/8 rim drive, I like this. 





Woodruff key is in a plastic bag, not losing it like some guys...





The chamfer is crap on some ports and the floor of the intake is sharp as a knife. Couldn't get a good pic of that though. 





Lots of pieces and I've never worked on a 361, so I'll figure out what I'm missing as I go. 

Having handled real stihl cranks/piston/cylinder it's hard to not notice how cheap this all feels. Don't care though, it's going together as is, if it dies it dies. Why? I think we have a come up with a bunch of ways to boost the reliability, I wanna see how reliable they are stock. 


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 24, 2016)

I'm kinda wondering about ordering saw parts from China, seems awfully slow shipping of late. I've got some I've been waiting on for a few weeks now, maybe I'll get them when I lose interest..


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## wood4heat (Oct 24, 2016)

So is this like a 361 kit assembled fromChinese knock off parts?


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## jackjcc (Oct 24, 2016)

wood4heat said:


> So is this like a 361 kit assembled fromChinese nock off parts?



Yes, it's all parts needed to build the saw bought in one kit from huztle. 


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## firefighterwolf (Oct 25, 2016)

Subscribed


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## CR888 (Oct 25, 2016)

At least when build these saws you get to fix any quality issues as you go.


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## lone wolf (Oct 25, 2016)

CR888 said:


> At least when build these saws you get to fix any quality issues as you go.


You bet!


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## Andyshine77 (Oct 25, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> Yes, it's all parts needed to build the saw bought in one kit from huztle.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you have to order the parts individually or is an actual complete kit?


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## PaladinMan187 (Oct 25, 2016)

Subbed. Interested to see how this works.


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## a. palmer jr. (Oct 25, 2016)

It's a whole kit, don't think it has a bar and chain or maybe it does. They also have other saws like a 372 Husqvarna and a couple of more Stihls.


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## jackjcc (Oct 25, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> It's a whole kit, don't think it has a bar and chain or maybe it does. They also have other saws like a 372 Husqvarna and a couple of more Stihls.



It's power head only. The husky kit is the 365, but you can bump it to 372 by buying an additional cylinder kit. 


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## Gkiesel (Oct 25, 2016)

This should be good. I think i missed somewhere how much the kit costs.


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## trboxman (Oct 25, 2016)

Gkiesel said:


> This should be good. I think i missed somewhere how much the kit costs.



Post #3


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 25, 2016)

My Paypal charge was $209.89.

Ordered on the 12th. Arrived today and notification to my phone.






Negotiations with the wife to use dining table for inventory are proceeding.[emoji6]


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 25, 2016)

No paint chips on this one.





It all seems to be there. Separated out the 'crankcase group' but didn't see the main bearings. They are already installed.

I agree on the muffler but we never tinkered with a 361 before.

A pro could prolly put it together in two-three hours but I'll stretch it out to several days. It's how we geezers roll.[emoji4]


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## lone wolf (Oct 25, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> No paint chips on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are the cases mismatched where the seem is at the top?


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 25, 2016)

lone wolf said:


> Are the cases mismatched where the seem is at the top?



Generally they are. The cylinder lacks a 'spigot' so it is a non issue.


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## jackjcc (Oct 25, 2016)

lone wolf said:


> Are the cases mismatched where the seem is at the top?



Mine line up well. 


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 25, 2016)

If you look close, you can see a primer coat (zinc cromate?) under the light gray/white.

I take that as a plus.


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## Boomer 87 (Oct 25, 2016)

Do these kits have everything to make a running saw,or do you have to buy a bunch if hardware screws, bolts,etc. bc thats where stihl gouges you the hardest it seems is tiny parts.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 25, 2016)

Supposed to have everything. Teeth, hair and eyeballs.

I don't doubt some little thing may be missing as I don't have a parts inventory.


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## jackjcc (Oct 25, 2016)

Those that bought the 660 kit were missing a couple small things. Mostly screw and bolts for the dawg. 


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## 13TreeWorks (Oct 26, 2016)

I bought a 660 kit last night I heard its missing the summer winter air door...... and that the wrist pin berring should not be trusted .... still rather excited bout it


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## Khntr85 (Oct 26, 2016)

Wow this is a very interesting thread guys!!!!.... can't wait to see these come together....did you guys get these from Hutzl thru ebay???


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## 13TreeWorks (Oct 26, 2016)

In my haste I ordered from the website ..... there is no complete listing on eBay but check with @Definitive Dave he could prolly hook you up with everything faster than waiting on the slow boat .... also as I understand he can hook you up with other stuffs to upgrade some of the weaker points


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## Khntr85 (Oct 26, 2016)

13TreeWorks said:


> In my haste I ordered from the website ..... there is no complete listing on eBay but check with @Definitive Dave he could prolly hook you up with everything faster than waiting on the slow boat .... also as I understand he can hook you up with other stuffs to upgrade some of the weaker points


Good deal.... I have ordered from him before... he is a no nonsense type guy, that's priceless to me!!!!


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 26, 2016)

Cases in the oven at 275 and crank in the ice maker and Ta Dah!





Cylinder transfer ports look like chit.


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## blsnelling (Oct 26, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Cylinder transfer ports look like chit.


That looks AWFUL. I would clean that up for fear of it breaking off.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 26, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> That looks AWFUL. I would clean that up for fear of it breaking off.



I did some but can't see well enuf to get it all. Plus the Dremel stone is a bit big. Round ball shape it is.


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## jackjcc (Oct 26, 2016)

Wow that makes my ports look almost perfect...that's the thing about these cylinders, some look like that most look like mine and some are pretty good. I want to get the timing numbers on mine. Maybe I'll try that out, never done it before. 


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## jackjcc (Oct 26, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Cases in the oven at 275 and crank in the ice maker and Ta Dah!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You are clearly gonna beat me to assembling this thing! 


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 26, 2016)

Wrong! Time for geezer nap!

It did take me a good while to find the little oil pump biscuit. It was in the bag with the rubber goods.


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## Khntr85 (Oct 26, 2016)

Glad to see you getting her together!!!!


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 26, 2016)

Now we get to the hard part for me. Putting the tank/handle ON. We have never had one OFF! 

And there are all sorts of strange bits we are not familiar with.

Tip: Use your Dremel to smooth up the end of the antivibe spring. It will 'screw' on much easier.

Now to study the IPL.......[emoji848]


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 26, 2016)

Handle/tank is on.
Back to the IPL to make another list of screws.


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## jackjcc (Oct 26, 2016)

Nice work driver!


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 27, 2016)

Any tips on hooking the throttle link to the carb?

Or, do I disassemble the trigger/presence lever and work front to back. I see the handle cover snaps on.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 27, 2016)

Almost ready for first start.

Still tinkering with the on/off/choke lever. Don't want to kick off choke properly.

Not the first Stihl to give us that problem.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 27, 2016)

Leftover stuff.





IDK where it goes.


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## ssm1699 (Oct 27, 2016)

I know that the two identical black clips are basically a plug that blocks the holes for the mounting screws on the muffler.


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## brandonstc6 (Oct 27, 2016)

The rubber washer left over looks like it goes under the screw that holds the top cover on (cylinder cover). 


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 27, 2016)

ssm1699 said:


> I know that the two identical black clips are basically a plug that blocks the holes for the mounting screws on the muffler.



Thanks bud.
They will prolly fall out in short order.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 27, 2016)

brandonstc6 said:


> The rubber washer left over looks like it goes under the screw that holds the top cover on (cylinder cover).
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I thought maybe but wasn't sure. Hole is too big.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 27, 2016)

Issue with the bar plate dragging on the chain rivits prevents us from start up. That and the control lever stupidness.


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## jackjcc (Oct 27, 2016)

The lever won't come all the way off choke unless the trigger is squeezed. That's a bit different than what I'm used to from Stihl. It threw me for a loop when I was messing with the handle. 


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## wkeev (Oct 27, 2016)

I'm pretty sure the rubber piece on the right is for summer ,winter use .it goes to the to right of the carb. on the tank housing I believe.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 27, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> The lever won't come all the way off choke unless the trigger is squeezed. That's a bit different than what I'm used to from Stihl. It threw me for a loop when I was messing with the handle.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



This one goes back to full choke when I squeeze the trigger.

Maybe I expect it to do different?


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## jackjcc (Oct 27, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> This one goes back to full choke when I squeeze the trigger.
> 
> Maybe I expect it to do different?



Something is backwards...


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 27, 2016)

Something going on with the 'toe' part of the arm that contacts the trigger. It hang up.

A picture of a standard Stihl part would be greatly appreciated.


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## ssm1699 (Oct 27, 2016)

I don't know about the AM parts, but I know they are still in on my dads new MS271. Now it is still breaking in since he bought it and it hasn't seen much use since bought. But it has had some hard use since it was bought. I personally don't see the reasoning for them, except for maybe warranty purposes on a new Stihl. Told dad that I want to do a muffler mod on his saw, but it won't be till it is out of warranty. Still has like a year and 9 months of warranty left on it.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 28, 2016)

Ordered a 'switch shaft' #1135 182 0900 from my local dealer. $6.81. If anything just to compare it to the Farmertec item.
Fired it up sans air filter junk.





Ran him 15 minutes and a few light cuts. Trying to ballpark the carb.

We need to do something with the muffler as he sounds too much like a leaf blower.


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## blsnelling (Oct 28, 2016)

361 mufflers are very choked up and desperately need modded.


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## jackjcc (Oct 28, 2016)

I am going to put one of those husky screw on deflector kits. 


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 29, 2016)

Debugging continues. 

Last night it died after a short run and refused to restart. Today I pulled the carb and it was totally dry. It wasn't passing fuel. Reassembled carb and changed the fuel filter just to eliminate that. I did notice the carb fuel spigot was weeping around the hose and pushed it on a tad further.
Maybe it was sucking air.

The carb has a Mylar pump diaphragm. Not my favorite material for that.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 29, 2016)

Screws supplied for the top wrap handle spring mount were unsuitable. I used a couple smaller leftover from a Farm Boss.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 30, 2016)

First major failure.




I consider it major because if one were to push the stem in sans button.




The stem would most certainly interfere with the piston and wreck the top end.


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## blsnelling (Oct 30, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> First major failure.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think the same thing was reported in the 660 thread.


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## Justsaws (Oct 30, 2016)

Does the decomp port go all the way through the cylinder wall with a large enough hole to fit the valve?


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 30, 2016)

.391" tap drill for the threads. 
Does that answer your question?

The stem will easily pass into the cylinder.


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## Ozhoo (Oct 30, 2016)

what we need here is a picture... 360 vice 361 but same idear


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## Justsaws (Oct 30, 2016)

Yep, thanks.


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## Rx7man (Oct 31, 2016)

When I did my 272 top end on my Husky 61 I had to cut that button off.. but on that style of cylinder it can't fall in... Perhaps some JB weld on it would keep it on?


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 31, 2016)

I'd be more comfortable cross drilling the knob and stem for a tiny roll pin.

Not the first time I've seen the problem.

Fellow came by over a year ago with a MS 441 that swallowed the decomp valve stem (OEM Stihl). Fortunately for him it had passed thru without doing any major damage. Just dinged up the piston crown a bit. Yikes![emoji15]


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## blsnelling (Oct 31, 2016)

With the multiple failures we've seen, I wouldn't even install their decomp. You're playing Russian roulette.


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## scheffa (Oct 31, 2016)

Can you simply install a bolt to block it off? Don't think a decomp valve is really needed


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## blsnelling (Oct 31, 2016)

Get the proper plug or use an OEM decomp.


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## Ryan'smilling (Oct 31, 2016)

I'd plug it. I never felt my 361 needed a decomp.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 31, 2016)

The carb on this supposed to be a Walbro HD clone?

It's not passing fuel reliably.

I think it is the hard plastic pump diaphragm. Not flexable enuf.


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## wood4heat (Oct 31, 2016)

Ryan'smilling said:


> I'd plug it. I never felt my 361 needed a decomp.



Does Stihl have a plug for that or did you just use s bolt?


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 31, 2016)

wood4heat said:


> Does Stihl have a plug for that or did you just use s bolt?



Short bolt from the hardware store has a larger hex head. Usually won't clear adjacent cylinder fins.


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## Ryan'smilling (Oct 31, 2016)

wood4heat said:


> Does Stihl have a plug for that or did you just use s bolt?



There is a product available. I don't know if Stihl makes one or not, but a quick googling found several. 

I didn't plug mine because it worked just fine. I just never felt it was needed. I was just saying that if I was in your position, I'd plug it rather than buy an OEM decompression valve.


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 31, 2016)

We are dead in the water. I can't get the carb to pump fuel. Even pulled the end of the impulse line and squirted mix into the crankcase.

Every time I pull the carb off ''tis dry inside. Replaced the original diaphgrm with a brown one, bottom. The original is the middle.





Top one (rubber) don't fit. Locator tit hole (arrows) is in wrong place by a tad


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## LegDeLimber (Oct 31, 2016)

The "rubber" diaphragm is lacking that third hole, in the upper left corner also.
How do the gaskets match up? any missing or misaligned cutouts or holes?

And I like the soft diaphragm also. Just seems to make for a little easier starting.

Edit to add question: Have you tried putting a thumb over the carb inlet and pulling the rope? 
Should get some fuel if nothing is blocked in the fuel line, etc.

Beyond that, I have to defer to someone who owns or is familiar with that saw.


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## 13TreeWorks (Oct 31, 2016)

I tried a aftermarket fuel line and filter in a 440 last winter ...... no gots ..... pulled the filter still no gots ...... swaped it out to the old line and old filter ran like a scalded unicorn ... I noticed that there was seepage around the fuel line where it connects to the carb I figured it was sucking air because the AM line was pretty loose compared to the oem ...... maybe try a small zip tie


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## 67L36Driver (Oct 31, 2016)

Our next move is a genuine Stihl fuel line.

Thing is, we had it running and cutting before this latest hiccup.[emoji15]

Meh. I could heat the tank with a blow drier and see if fuel leaks somewhere.


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## 13TreeWorks (Oct 31, 2016)

Make sure the tank vent is functioning


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## CR888 (Oct 31, 2016)

Most saws use the same thread size for decomps. I bought a 10pack of decomp plugs with washers from Farmertech/Hutzl for like $6. They sell them in singles and 5 packs too. Not sure I'd trust the decomp in these kits, it would be one of the parts I'd swap out for OEM or use a plug.


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## trboxman (Oct 31, 2016)

The decomps are crap. Pull the cap off, drill a vent in the side or top of the cap, put epoxy in the cap and mount to the decomp valve. Seems to hold up...


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 1, 2016)

We did find the fuel delivery problem.






R&R the carb four times may have been too much for a flaw in the hose.

I don't see it as a fault on the original installation.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 2, 2016)

One part is missing.

A 15 x 1 circlip is shown on the crankshaft in the IPL. It was not present in any of the parts bags.

I'm not sure what it's in there for. Seems to work fine without it. Goes on before the oil pump.

Possibly it limits inboard movement of the oil pump drive gear.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 3, 2016)

Replaced the 'switch shaft' with an OEM. The choke-fast idle-run transition is improved but still will go back to full choke if you aren't ready and result in a flooded engine.

We put a snap ring substitute for the '15 x 1' circlip on the crankshaft. It was missing from the parts altogether.

Starts, runs, idles and cuts.









It's been a week to get it this far.

Now to get some cutting time on him and adjust the carb. Muffler mod later.

What? You were expecting a Stihl Rollamatic ES bar?[emoji15]

Get real![emoji48]


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## lone wolf (Nov 3, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Replaced the 'switch shaft' with an OEM. The choke-fast idle-run transition is improved but still will go back to full choke if you aren't ready and result in a flooded engine.
> 
> We put a snap ring substitute for the '15 x 1' circlip on the crankshaft. It was missing from the parts altogether.
> 
> ...


Takes a lot of patience to do what you did!


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## wood4heat (Nov 3, 2016)

Looks good! So how does it cut?


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 3, 2016)

wood4heat said:


> Looks good! So how does it cut?



About what one would expect from 60 cc x 20" w/chisel.

Power range feels narrow but the carb needs tuning and the muffler opened up.


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## lone wolf (Nov 4, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> About what one would expect from 60 cc x 20" w/chisel.
> 
> Power range feels narrow but the carb needs tuning and the muffler opened up.


The long range testing to see how it holds up should tell all.


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## tbohn (Nov 4, 2016)

lone wolf said:


> Takes a lot of patience to do what you did!


When dealing with Huztl be prepared for missing parts and long lead times for shipping the missing parts. If you have the patience and are willing to tinker, they are not a bad deal.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 4, 2016)

Kit was complete except for the above mentioned '15 x 1' circlip.[emoji108]
I subbed a 9/16" external retaining ring from the hardware store. $0.47 out the door.[emoji6]


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 4, 2016)

I can highly recommend the Hutzel/Farmertec 361 kit.

Be careful on the carb installation so you don't pinch the fuel line and wreck it like I did.


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## jackjcc (Nov 4, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> I can highly recommend the Hutzel/Farmertec 361 kit.
> 
> Be careful on the carb installation so you don't pinch the fuel line and wreck it like I did.



Yeah when I was doing a little mock up it looked like it has to take a 130 degree turn. What kind of design work is that Stihl?


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 4, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> Yeah when I was doing a little mock up it looked like it has to take a 130 degree turn. What kind of design work is that Stihl?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes, a built in 'gotcha!'


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 5, 2016)

Did some free hand slabbing to get run time on the 361.





Checked it over afterward and found the muffler loose.[emoji15]





Gasket on opposite side of aluminum baffle is OK.

I know for certain it was tight before.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 6, 2016)

While we have the muffler off:




We did our signature quick and dirty muff mod.


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Nov 6, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> About what one would expect from 60 cc x 20" w/chisel.
> 
> Power range feels narrow but the carb needs tuning and the muffler opened up.



How close is the afm cyl porting to the oem cyl? I loved how the oem ran muffler modded and hated the one I ran with no muffler mod.

Your muffler opened up? Never mind see you said opened up.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 8, 2016)

Carb is still giving me fits. It won't pump fuel enuff to feed the metering chamber.

Metering lever is where it's supposed to be. Lever spring feels over stiff but I've nothing to compare it to.

The Mylar pump diaphragm is not helping either. Stiff!


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## jackjcc (Nov 8, 2016)

So looks like an OEM carb kit would be a good idea?


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 8, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> So looks like an OEM carb kit would be a good idea?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



True but only if it contained a metering lever spring. Most don't.

Subbed in a spring from a Farm Boss Walbro HD.

If the chink carb is a clone of that even.
We really don't know.[emoji15]

I'll check my local *** place for a rubber pump side diaphragm tomorrow.


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## jackjcc (Nov 8, 2016)

Wouldn't a k20 wat have all the parts for it? Get those from Walbro for $10. The 290 stihl carb kits I got last week did not have the spring. That made me wish I had gone with the k20. 


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## scheffa (Nov 9, 2016)

Just received my 361 kit today, I can't find in the ipl what screws are used to pull the case halves together, it also mentions a number of pins, and also notched pins, I have no idea what these are??


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## scheffa (Nov 9, 2016)

It appears as though the pins are already installed, did anyone find a trick to installing the round rubber stops to the cases, I swear the hole is to small


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 9, 2016)

scheffa said:


> It appears as though the pins are already installed, did anyone find a trick to installing the round rubber stops to the cases, I swear the hole is to small



Put case halves in the oven for 20 minutes at 275. Cut the heads off three 5mm x 2 1/2" screws for guide pins. Slot the ends with your hack saw for screwdriver.

Crank assembly in zip lock bag in freezer ice maker. Polish bearing surface with 400-600 grit paper. Smear with a light coat of grease.

Should drop right in. But be ready with plastic hammer.

Don't forget the gasket!

Slice a bit off the rubber stop with your Xacto knife, two small flats at 180 degrees. Helps a lot! So does a bit of silicon spray lube.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 9, 2016)

Just make a list of screw lengths from the IPL. Most all are 5mm. Only 4mm is the oil pump screws and the brake band dust shield.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 9, 2016)

Since the carb is giving me the most trouble, hindsight being 20-20, I'd disassemble and inspect the carb.
Mine had the wrong (stiff!!) metering lever spring.

Consider replacing the pump diaphragm with a rubber fabric type.


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## scheffa (Nov 9, 2016)

The ipl I have dowdy mention the length of screws for each location? Got the case halves and crank together last night.
I used the heat method, however the crank does not rotate freely!


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## lone wolf (Nov 9, 2016)

scheffa said:


> The ipl I have dowdy mention the length of screws for each location? Got the case halves and crank together last night.
> I used the heat method, however the crank does not rotate freely!


Tap it on the ends with a soft face hammer to center it just dont use a heavy steal hammer and wreck it.


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## lone wolf (Nov 9, 2016)

scheffa said:


> The ipl I have dowdy mention the length of screws for each location? Got the case halves and crank together last night.
> I used the heat method, however the crank does not rotate freely!


What screws are in question?


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 9, 2016)

Go to the mediaCat thread and put in for a CD.

I wouldn't have gone the 361 route without it.

The metering lever and diaphragm change got mine running again.

Still don't know about cold starts.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 9, 2016)

Another chink comp release failed.





I removed it immediately and it was no effort at all to remove the 'stem'.





Yikes!!

Visit my Stihl dealer tomorrow.


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## scheffa (Nov 10, 2016)

lone wolf said:


> Tap it on the ends with a soft face hammer to center it just dont use a heavy steal hammer and wreck it.[/QUOTE
> 
> I gave it a light tap with a steel hammer I had in hand, how hard do you need to tap it?
> It does feel better however still not rotating as free I think it should.
> ...


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## snowsalot (Nov 10, 2016)

Hi guys
I've been looking on ebay and doing searches for these complete kits but no luck. Can anybody point me in the right direction. I'm interested in a 365 husky copy.

Thanks

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## CR888 (Nov 10, 2016)

T


snowsalot said:


> Hi guys
> I've been looking on ebay and doing searches for these complete kits but no luck. Can anybody point me in the right direction. I'm interested in a 365 husky copy.
> 
> Thanks
> ...


Type 'complete parts Stihl' into Ebay search.


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## Ozhoo (Nov 10, 2016)

snowsalot said:


> Hi guys
> I've been looking on ebay and doing searches for these complete kits but no luck. Can anybody point me in the right direction. I'm interested in a 365 husky copy.
> 
> Thanks
> ...



They don't list complete kits on ebay.us

Hutzl.net is their site... seems to not work on phones though. Here's the 365 clone. 
http://www.huztl.net/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54397


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 10, 2016)

OEM Stihl comp release on the left.





Notice two things:
The button is crimped (melted on?) to the stem.
The bleed port is lots smaller and only one. The chink valve ports (two) are huge.

$13.50 out the door at Jack Horner's Machinery.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 10, 2016)

Finished!


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## walterg (Nov 10, 2016)

Ozhoo said:


> They don't list complete kits on ebay.us
> 
> Hutzl.net is their site... seems to not work on phones though. Here's the 365 clone.
> http://www.huztl.net/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54397


To view it on a phone, switch to desktop view and it works.

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## walterg (Nov 10, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Finished!


 Congrats!![emoji3] [emoji3] 
So, knowing what you know now, what would you do different.

Decomp valve, and maybe oem fuel line. Anything else?

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## 67L36Driver (Nov 10, 2016)

walterg said:


> Congrats!![emoji3] [emoji3]
> So, knowing what you know now, what would you do different.
> 
> Decomp valve, and maybe oem fuel line. Anything else?
> ...



Decomp valve for sure. 
Disassemble and inspect carb. This one had wrong metering lever spring.
Use the genuine Stihl screws for the muffler.
Be very careful on carb installation not to pinch the fuel line.


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## tpence2177 (Nov 10, 2016)

Got any videos of it running?

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## 67L36Driver (Nov 10, 2016)

Nope, we don't do videos.

Base gasket delete by the way. With it we were over .045" squish.

Runs good, oils good.





Green cherry.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 11, 2016)

I put it up on my local Craigslist.

Mostly to stir up trouble. It's what geezers do best.[emoji48]


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 12, 2016)

Anybody put together a 49mm version yet?


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## scheffa (Nov 12, 2016)

Just finished my 361, got it to fire and run for a few seconds eventually, soon as I blipped the throttle it stalled and cannot get it to start, any ideas what may be the cause


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 12, 2016)

scheffa said:


> Just finished my 361, got it to fire and run for a few seconds eventually, soon as I blipped the throttle it stalled and cannot get it to start, any ideas what may be the cause



Carb is not passing fuel.

Mine had a long, over stiff metering lever spring. I swapped in a spring from a Farm Boss carb I had in my junk.


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## scheffa (Nov 13, 2016)

I pulled the muffler to check nothing was wrong, when turning it over by hand I can hear a metal on metal scraping noise that sounds like it's coming from the bottom end, I was having issues with installing the crank and getting it to spin freely. I wonder if this may be part of the problem


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## blekman (Nov 13, 2016)

if the crank didnt spin freely before you put the cylinder on then its not assembled right


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## scheffa (Nov 13, 2016)

blekman said:


> if the crank didnt spin freely before you put the cylinder on then its not assembled right




Any ideas on why the crank felt a little stiff? 
Have never played with bottom ends on a saw before


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## blekman (Nov 13, 2016)

more than likely its not centred.

take the flywheel and clutch off, as well as the cylinder for good measure and give the ends of the crank a few sharp taps with a soft head hammer, continue until the crank spins freely.

Hopefully no damage has been done already


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 13, 2016)

It's not going to spin very easily with the new crank seals.
Just a reminder fellas.

Provided the shaft is centered, it should turn with almost no effort sans seals.

Another good reason to remove them before assembling the bottom end.


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## scheffa (Nov 13, 2016)

Thinking I may order some new seals, remove the ones that are there and tap the crank


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## scheffa (Nov 14, 2016)

So I found the problem, the little curculio that holds the wrist pin in had come out and got dragged down the cylinder causing a bit of damage to the cylinder, the scraping noise is the skirt of the piston just making contact with the crank at bdc.
Will it still run with cylinder as the damage is below the transfers??


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 14, 2016)

I'd polish it out and run it.

You didn't get the wire retainer nestled in its groove?


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## Ozhoo (Nov 14, 2016)

I blew it up to make it easier to see... it'll run, not great, but it'll run. You'll wanna get in there and knock down any sharp edges. As cheap as these cylinders are though, I'd replace it.


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## scheffa (Nov 14, 2016)

I will be ordering a new cylinder, may even get the big bore kit for it, may get a new wire clip and put it back together to make sure I have buffered anything else up. Where the piston runs the crank, should I just lightly file a little bit away from the skirt?


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## tbohn (Nov 14, 2016)

scheffa said:


> I will be ordering a new cylinder, may even get the big bore kit for it, may get a new wire clip and put it back together to make sure I have buffered anything else up. Where the piston runs the crank, should I just lightly file a little bit away from the skirt?


I had the same issue on my Huztl 660 kit. I just filed down the outside corners where the counterbalance lobes contacted the skirt.
I always triple check the pin retainers to make sure they are in the groove.


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## jackjcc (Nov 14, 2016)

My carb came without the brass impulse fitting...awesome. 


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 14, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> My carb came without the brass impulse fitting...awesome.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I don't remember seeing any 'brass impulse fitting' in my pile of parts.
[emoji848]
Picture or part number?[emoji15]

Never had a 361 before so I wasn't looking for 'it'.


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## jackjcc (Nov 14, 2016)

The pipe on the bottom cover that the impulse hose slides over when the carb is seated. Unless I'm mistaken and the impulse hooks up some other way. I too am unfamiliar with the 361. 


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 14, 2016)

The carb is a 'face feeder' for the impulse.
Hose hooked up just like the two 034s I overhauled in the past.

Impulse hose (rubber tube) plugs onto the crankcase spigot and to the engine side of the handle/tank bulkhead.

Look for a nipple pointing straight to the right.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 14, 2016)

By the way.  This 361 is a head above in performance compared to an 034 with a MS360 top end.[emoji6]


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## scheffa (Nov 16, 2016)

Got my new cylinder and piston today, managed to quickly put it together, have a couple pull and nothing, then had to rush of to a personal emergency. Curious as to how long its taken other to get a brand new started?


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## scheffa (Nov 16, 2016)

Also what baseline carb settings is everyone starting out with?


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## tbohn (Nov 16, 2016)

scheffa said:


> Also what baseline carb settings is everyone starting out with?


On the Huztl 660 they usually pop within 5 pulls. I start with the carb settings as shipped. I don't have to adjust them very much but I do richer up the high for the first tank at least.


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## Ozhoo (Nov 16, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> I put it up on my local Craigslist.
> 
> Mostly to stir up trouble. It's what geezers do best.[emoji48]



I noticed your ad is still up, what sort of feedback are you getting 67?


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## scheffa (Nov 16, 2016)

I'm beginning to think that the crank balance loves may be rubbing on the bottom of the cases, anyone had that happen?


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 16, 2016)

Ozhoo said:


> I noticed your ad is still up, what sort of feedback are you getting 67?



Only a couple nibbles.

Didn't really know where to price it. Let it run two three weeks and then maybe drop it a tad.


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## tbohn (Nov 16, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Only a couple nibbles.
> 
> Didn't really know where to price it. Let it run two three weeks and then maybe drop it a tad.


What price do you have on it? I have a couple of extra huztl 660 that I want to move and I don't know what to ask.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 17, 2016)

Open to suggestions/improvements.

Stihl MS361 chainsaw w/20" clone $450
http://stjoseph.craigslist.org/tls/5871166387.html

via cPro for Craigslist
iOS: http://tinyurl.com/cPro-iDevice
Android: http://tinyurl.com/CL-Android

I was guessing it should sell at a clean used original saw price.


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## trboxman (Nov 17, 2016)

tbohn said:


> On the Huztl 660 they usually pop within 5 pulls. I start with the carb settings as shipped. I don't have to adjust them very much but I do richer up the high for the first tank at least.



On the 660s I've been building I reset the carb to the suggested settings in the manual and go from there. I also run the first tank a bit rich.


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## scheffa (Nov 17, 2016)

So I got my 361 all together, the scraping sound was the fly wheel rubbing on the starter housing. Problem is now it doesn't want to start, had it runoff a little and it ran and cut well. 
Now it fires within a couple of pulls on choke but that's it!! Any ideas what wrong with it now


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 17, 2016)

Did you disassemble and inspect the carb?

Look back a ways and see the metering lever spring I found in mine.

It wouldn't pass fuel.


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## scheffa (Nov 17, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Did you disassemble and inspect the carb?
> 
> Look back a ways and see the metering lever spring I found in mine.
> 
> It wouldn't pass fuel.



Is it a complicated job to disassemble?


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## scheffa (Nov 18, 2016)

Swapped out the metering spring from an 034, hasn't made much difference, I have noticed that when taken from choke to full throttle on startup the choke butterfly only partially opens, is this normal??
Saw will fire on choke second pull almost every time, will occasionally fire when set back to idle.
I have got the saw to start a couple of times by first pulling on choke till it burps, then switching to the on position and holding throttle wide open. Saw will then only run above half to 3/4 throttle.
I'm thinking it is a carb issue, I may just order a new aftermarket carb if I can't get it to run with help from here over the weekend


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 18, 2016)

Yes, the choke blade opens to about 80% till the fast idle 'toe' catches on the throttle trigger.

Squeezing the trigger should open it completely and clear the fast idle latch.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 18, 2016)

My carb was helped a bit by switching to a rubber fabric pump diaphragm.

While it wasn't an exact match my leather punch did the trick.





Top: rubber fabric 
Middle: plastic that it came with
Bottom: Mylar fabric all kits seem to contain of late


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## LegDeLimber (Nov 19, 2016)

Has anyone identified this "rubber" material?
Seems like I recall some of the guys, in the Poulan sticky thread,
were looking for something to replace some oiler diaphragms.
But I lost track of what their results were.

With laser cutters being a tabletop tool nowdays....
I'm just thinking that if someone were to find that material,
That should improve the chances of getting some diaphragms made.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 20, 2016)

Anyone else have their 361 built?


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## jackjcc (Nov 20, 2016)

I finished an ms390 rebuild and I rage quit the johnsered 2159t I've wasted 25 hours on. 361 is gonna get started this week, but of course there is Thanksgiving. Gonna get some trees cut up and eat food, not much saw building time. 


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## scheffa (Nov 21, 2016)

Mine is built but still won't run, new carb should arrive tomorrow hopefully


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 22, 2016)

Looks like mine is sold pending funds.

Time to order another.[emoji6]


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## jackjcc (Nov 30, 2016)

Oven worked slick, flywheel side dropped right in and clutch side got 90% on. Finished it off with the screws. Got to center it yet, why does it need to be a brass hammer? I need a feeler gauge to measure if it's center. 


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## jackjcc (Nov 30, 2016)

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## trboxman (Nov 30, 2016)

Brass is softer than steel and won't deform the item being struck. You should still be careful as it is possible to break off the end of the crank where it's machined for the e-clip. It doesn't take much to move it side to side, I'd call it a light to firm tap vs. a hard tap.

Oh, and you can eyeball it a lot closer than you think. Eyeball it and measure with a thick business card and you'll likely be just fine...


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 30, 2016)

I don't measure. I just go by feel. Once it turns freely, we are good to go.

Couldn't find my plastic hammer so used a chunk of dry milled walnut.


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## jackjcc (Nov 30, 2016)

I think Stihl missed an opportunity to make this saw more complicated...not. This is so much worse than the 036. 

Where did you guys find the c clips for the chain break assembly? I can't find the two. 


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 30, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> I think Stihl missed an opportunity to make this saw more complicated...not. This is so much worse than the 036.
> 
> Where did you guys find the c clips for the chain break assembly? I can't find the two.
> 
> ...



In with the rest of the chain brake parts. Look in the corner of the plastic bag.

I put the tiny parts in an old 35mm film can. Flywheel key being one of them.


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## 67L36Driver (Nov 30, 2016)

The bottom front antivibe mount was the most difficult thing for me. [emoji37]Maybe I was going about it the hard way.


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## jackjcc (Nov 30, 2016)

That thing was a pita for sure. I'm trying to locate the tank vent, where did they stash it?


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## jackjcc (Nov 30, 2016)

3 hours later and I've done all I can. Lacking more than a few key parts. All the same issues as driver plus I lost the clips for the chain break. 








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## 67L36Driver (Dec 1, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> That thing was a pita for sure. I'm trying to locate the tank vent, where did they stash it?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Not to worry. Tank vent is pre installed. Under a 'Hidy' cover on the right side.

Threw out them plastic bags too soon?


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 1, 2016)

On/off/choke lever work properly??


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## jackjcc (Dec 1, 2016)

The choke seems to function correctly. I kept all the bags and went through them twice, no dice, searched the floor and nothing. I also didn't get any rubber grommets for the top cover. Can't even find a part number for them on media cat. 


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## DND 9000 (Dec 1, 2016)

There is a set of grommets in the IPL. It is for the top cover. These grommets are not availible as seperate item. But they can be ordered as a set (1135 007 1003) It consists of part 4-9 in the IPL.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 1, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> The choke seems to function correctly. I kept all the bags and went through them twice, no dice, searched the floor and nothing. I also didn't get any rubber grommets for the top cover. Can't even find a part number for them on media cat.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I guess I was lucky that nothing was missing.

Check your local auto parts store and Ace Hardware for the tiny 'E' clips.

And, inspect the carb guts. A stiff metering lever spring will give a no start situation.


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## jackjcc (Dec 1, 2016)

I got a carb kit during hls's Black Friday sale. I'm ordering Stihl parts, I've had some issues with the m5x16 screws fitting as well as the m4x8. The 8's look to be closer to 10, so I'm ordering a few of those as well. 


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 1, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Replaced the 'switch shaft' with an OEM. The choke-fast idle-run transition is improved but still will go back to full choke if you aren't ready and result in a flooded engine.
> 
> We put a snap ring substitute for the '15 x 1' circlip on the crankshaft. It was missing from the parts altogether.
> 
> ...


 Did the bar come with the saw or did you buy it separately?


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 1, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Did the bar come with the saw or did you buy it separately?



Bought the bar locally at a *** repair shop. Had the new loop on hand from another deal.


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## jackjcc (Dec 1, 2016)

Apparently you can't order the grommets for the top cover without ordering the top cover assembly. That sucks. 


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## jackjcc (Dec 3, 2016)

This is what I have left...no clue where that black screw goes. Any ideas? Extra wire harness and gasket. 








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## 67L36Driver (Dec 3, 2016)

Screw is likely just tramp material.
I have the same wire harness left.

The muffler gasket(s) are worthless. One burned thru on mine in short order.


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## jackjcc (Dec 3, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> Screw is likely just tramp material.
> I have the same wire harness left.
> 
> The muffler gasket(s) are worthless. One burned thru on mine in short order.



Yeah they look like carbon. 

I emailed [email protected] about the grommets. I found them on the website so I could order them. 


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## jackjcc (Dec 4, 2016)

Found another piece I don't think I see in the ipl, any ideas?







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## 67L36Driver (Dec 4, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> Found another piece I don't think I see in the ipl, any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Top rear left antivibe mount.  Limits travel.

It had me scratching my head to.


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## jackjcc (Dec 4, 2016)

That the litter rubber piece and the long screw go in there? 


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 4, 2016)

Yes the antivibe mount center.


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## jackjcc (Dec 4, 2016)

They got back to me and are sending out the grommets. They are pretty good about responding it seems and the guys in the 660 thread were able to get missing parts easy enough. 


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## tbohn (Dec 5, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> This is what I have left...no clue where that black screw goes. Any ideas? Extra wire harness and gasket.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've been getting the same extra screw in my Huztl 660 kits lately. I vaguely remember using one like this on my Huztl 365 kit for something???


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## jackjcc (Dec 5, 2016)

Husky have those little screws that hold a small plate across the back of the carb, about as close as I can think. Usually though it's the homeowner class huskys. I don't work on the pro ones much. 


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## jackjcc (Dec 6, 2016)

I did have some fit issues with screws being a bit long. Take a look at the difference between Huztl and Stihl. 




The two in the middle are Stihl. On left are the m4x8, and right m5x16. I couldn't get the bar on using the huztle m4 to hold the bar plate on, that fat head stuck outside the bar studs. And it's way too long so it didn't fit in the hole for the chain adjuster. The m5 Huztl's have a little collar at the top of the threads that made it very difficult to snug them up on a few screws. 


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## blsnelling (Dec 6, 2016)

And no serrations on the bottom of the head to keep them tight.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 6, 2016)

blsnelling said:


> And no serrations on the bottom of the head to keep them tight.



Yes, the muffler screws loosened in short order.

D.Dave offered a selection of five different lengths of 5mm some time last year. I jumped on 'em. Glad I did.


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## LegDeLimber (Dec 7, 2016)

Seeing jackjccs photo My first thought was , yeah don't forget to watch for fastener interferences. Head & length.
Good points in his post!

Funny that I was, also, looking for any ridges under the screw heads.
The far left screw looks to have signs of an effort at creating them.

Are you guys (and gals?) seeing any problems with things like the shank (immediately under) the head of the far right screw?
I'm thinking like screws being a bit tricky to get tightened and maybe having something work loose? 
Sort of like the way bar stud tapers or shoulders sometimes cause a bit of trouble with keeping a bar & chain tight.

I hope that you guys don't mind, too badly, that I'm "living" vicariously through reading these Hutzle kit builds.


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 26, 2016)

Ok, since nobody has posted for awhile, I though I would do an update on the current 361 kit (as I received one for Christmas) particularly for anyone who reads this and is on the fence about getting one. So far the build quality of the kits seems to have gone up dramatically in the areas where they were having problems. I was rather surprised how nice the cylinder ports looked. I filed the edges down a tad but there was no excess flashing like was previously present in the castings. I believe that the ports were good enough to be left alone, but I wanted to be safe and cleaned it up a little. The screws that you were recently discussing seemed to be fixed. The ridges on the bottom are more prominent, and the funky taper near the screw head seems to have gone away. The spring in the carb appears to be smaller and not as stiff as previously seen, although I have yet to run the saw to see if that is true. The only part that was missing so far is the circlip for the crankshaft near the oil pump. Other than that all parts appears to be exceptional quality. 

I am not finished with my build yet, as I was having troubles with the oil seal on the clutch side and broke the crankcase gasket. I decided to order an oem gasket and seals kit, and with that I ordered the fuel/oil lines as well as the air filter. I decided to get the oil line in particular because I had an issue with an aftermarket line on a smaller stihl leaking after a while, and due to the ease of replacement when disassembled. For those who have been running their saws for some time now, how have the rubber components like the fuel/oil lines held up? I'm rather curious to see if they are any good. If anyone has any questions about the newest kits feel free to ask.


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## jackjcc (Dec 26, 2016)

I don't trust the manifold, I'm having fuel issues and I feel like there isn't a good seal for the carb to the manifold. It will only sputter, but I've barely tried to diagnose it yet. We will see when I get around to taking it apart again. 


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## Brushwacker (Dec 27, 2016)

Seriously I don't mean to sound sarcastic but these kits sound like a lot of problems for what you end up with. I'd rather spend the money on used or if it had to be new, wouldn't a new Echo cs590 be worth another $200 for being assembled, a decent warranty, parts availability, and parts u can count on to work without having to correct poor manufacturing flaws.


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## Philbert (Dec 27, 2016)

It's not just about getting a saw (IMHO). It's about the process. 

Could be $300 you spend on a self paced class on chainsaw assembly. Could also help you understand / appreciate what makes a better saw better. 

Philbert


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## trboxman (Dec 27, 2016)

Philbert said:


> It's not just about getting a saw (IMHO). It's about the process.
> 
> Could be $300 you spend on a self paced class on chainsaw assembly. Could also help you understand / appreciate what makes a better saw better.
> 
> Philbert



That's one of the things that many folks are overlooking, a lot of the guys building these are learning as we go. There are a few that are seasoned saw mechanics, but I know of several who are not. I mechanic'd on cars, trucks, jeeps and tractors for years but one of these kits was my very first experience with working on a 2 stroke. 

Many of the issues and problems folks have encountered have been lack of experience, some has been lack of engineering execution by the manufacturer and some aren't clear as to whether it's user or maker at fault.


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 27, 2016)

trboxman said:


> That's one of the things that many folks are overlooking, a lot of the guys building these are learning as we go. There are a few that are seasoned saw mechanics, but I know of several who are not. I mechanic'd on cars, trucks, jeeps and tractors for years but one of these kits was my very first experience with working on a 2 stroke.
> 
> Many of the issues and problems folks have encountered have been lack of experience, some has been lack of engineering execution by the manufacturer and some aren't clear as to whether it's user or maker at fault.


You summed it up nicely. I've worked on my fair share of vehicles and light 2 stroke maintenance, but this is my first experience doing major work on a saw involving the piston and crankcase. I got the kit because I wanted to learn more about saws. I figure if I need to screw up learning how to do something, it might as well be on something parts are pretty cheap for, and something that I don't feel bad about if I mess up.


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 28, 2016)

I think I'd like those kits better if the crankcase came assembled then all you'd have to do is throw the parts on it..


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## Philbert (Dec 28, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I think I'd like those kits better if the crankcase came assembled . . .



Disagree. With the poor quality control, I would want the ability to carefully inspect all of the parts, and the opportunity to correct them (clean up or ask for replacement).

Plus, there is the assembly experience.

Philbert


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 28, 2016)

So, what did the kit cost once you paid for it plus postage?


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 28, 2016)

Philbert said:


> Disagree. With the poor quality control, I would want the ability to carefully inspect all of the parts, and the opportunity to correct them (clean up or ask for replacement).
> 
> Plus, there is the assembly experience.
> 
> Philbert


 I thought most of their "quality control" problems was missing parts. With all the saws I've worked on lately I think I'd rather someone else have the "experience."


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 28, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I thought most of their "quality control" problems was missing parts. With all the saws I've worked on lately I think I'd rather someone else have the "experience."


Not for me. Out of the whole kit so far, all I have been missing is a measly circlip. I can't complain. As for experience, I don't mind assembling the crankcases, but I wish they would leave out the pre-installed oil seals.


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 28, 2016)

Mac&Homelite said:


> Not for me. Out of the whole kit so far, all I have been missing is a measly circlip. I can't complain. As for experience, I don't mind assembling the crankcases, but I wish they would leave out the pre-installed oil seals.


 I suppose you have to freeze the crank to get it to fit into the bearings? I've bought piston/cylinder kits from them that sometimes had the circlips missing also.


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 28, 2016)

I wouldn't mind if they'd come out with a MS390 saw.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 28, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> So, what did the kit cost once you paid for it plus postage?



$136 + $74 = $210

MS360 kit is same price and without looking, I suspect same shipping cost.

Took 13 days to arrive.


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 29, 2016)

Better than I thought on the shipping and 13 days not long either. I'm still contemplating on buying one but haven't figured out which one yet.


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I suppose you have to freeze the crank to get it to fit into the bearings? I've bought piston/cylinder kits from them that sometimes had the circlips missing also.


Forget freezing you need controlled heat. A heat gun and a laser temp gun to measure the temp. Heat the area to 250f and it will slip in


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 29, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Better than I thought on the shipping and 13 days not long either. I'm still contemplating on buying one but haven't figured out which one yet.


Yes, I did have to freeze the crank, and I heated the cases. It goes in fine, but the oil seal are a bit tricky. As for which you should buy, they just came out with ms440 kit so that may be a fun one to do. Little more expensive, but I think it is worth it. Had it come out sooner, I would have gotten it instead of then the 361


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

Are you saying you tried it both ways and that's the only way it worked? I did not freeze the one side I did. Read the 660 thread and you can find others just. Freezing introduces moisture into the plastic bearings


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

Don't get the heat to close to the cage in the bearing. It's plastic and that would be bad don't want to melt or deform it


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 29, 2016)

Bedford T said:


> Are you saying you tried it both ways and that's the only way it worked? I did not freeze the one side I did. Read the 660 thread and you can find others just. Freezing introduces moisture into the plastic bearings


I initially used the frozen crank and heated case technique. However, after screwing around with the one oil seal (crank was room temp, other case half was heated), I agree that needing to cool down the crank is unnecessary. I was unable to tell the difference between sliding the crank in frozen vs at room temp.


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

Other than It was wet? Remember we are writing for the world and those that come behind us. No disrespect intended


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## tbohn (Dec 29, 2016)

I like to freeze the crank and heat the case halves. I heat the cases in my kitchen oven for about 20 minutes at 270F. It is important to preheat to 270F before you put the cases in. If you don't preheat, the cases surfaces most likely will get too hot as the oven is coming up to temperature. 

I have been installing the cranks with the seals installed on the AM kits. Turning the crank as it goes into the bearings along with the condensation on the crankshaft allows the seal to slip over the crankshaft without pinching. Works every time for me.


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

The Stihl manual is clear @250f


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 29, 2016)

No offense taken. All I want to do is help others have less of a learning curve on these kits. I know I have learned a lot on these forums before assembling mine, and I hope to add to the pool of knowledge as well. I put my cases in for 12 min @250 and that worked fine for me. Any higher and I feel that the rubber parts (like the oil line) may not deal with the heat.


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## tbohn (Dec 29, 2016)

Bedford T said:


> The Stihl manual is clear @250f


Initially I heated to 250F and had mixed results. Some slipped in easily and others needed more force.


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

Mac&Homelite said:


> No offense taken. All I want to do is help others have less of a learning curve on these kits. I know I have learned a lot on these forums before assembling mine, and I hope to add to the pool of knowledge as well. I put my cases in for 12 min @250 and that worked fine for me. Any higher and I feel that the rubber parts (like the oil line) may not deal with the heat.


Remove your oil line before. I bet you installed because you were afraid you would forget. That was why I had to remove it.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 29, 2016)

And, polish the crank bearing surface with 400-600 wet or dry sandpaper. A thin coat of grease to boot.
Crank in the ice maker and case halves in the oven at 275 and it falls together.[emoji108]

A couple Husky muffler studs make excellent guide pins.

Moisture won't be on there long enuff to do harm.


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## blsnelling (Dec 29, 2016)

Heat on the case is all that's needed. Get it right and the bearings will literally fall in. All the cold does is put condensation (water) all over your bearings. Not something I want.


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## tbohn (Dec 29, 2016)

Bedford T said:


> Remove your oil line before. I bet you installed because you were afraid you would forget. That was why I had to remove it.


Speaking of forgetting, I installed the oil line after the cases were together in my last few kits...its just a better way of doing it. I think on my last kit I only had to disassemble components twice because I forgot to install something. You don't want to find your lower left rubber ring AV buffer in your leftover parts!


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 29, 2016)

Mac&Homelite said:


> Yes, I did have to freeze the crank, and I heated the cases. It goes in fine, but the oil seal are a bit tricky. As for which you should buy, they just came out with ms440 kit so that may be a fun one to do. Little more expensive, but I think it is worth it. Had it come out sooner, I would have gotten it instead of then the 361


 I think if I was going to do that I might just go ahead and get the 660 for a few dollars more.


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## jackjcc (Dec 29, 2016)

tbohn said:


> Speaking of forgetting, I installed the oil line after the cases were together in my last few kits...its just a better way of doing it. I think on my last kit I only had to disassemble components twice because I forgot to install something. You don't want to find your lower left rubber ring AV buffer in your leftover parts!



Doesn't the 361 have a channel in the case that directs the oil to the bar slot? I can't remember putting a line in the case like on an 026? 


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## tbohn (Dec 29, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> Doesn't the 361 have a channel in the case that directs the oil to the bar slot? I can't remember putting a line in the case like on an 026?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Confused with my 660 kit.


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

The 361 uses a pickup hose just like the 660. Not sure where the channel comes in unless you are thinking about the bar


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 29, 2016)

I'm still working on the crankcase, but I was looking at the IPl and couldn't figure out for the life of me where this goes. Does anyone know?


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

I will look at my material but it strikes me like it would be in the throttle area


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## Ozhoo (Dec 29, 2016)

Mac&Homelite said:


> View attachment 546871
> 
> I'm still working on the crankcase, but I was looking at the IPl and couldn't figure out for the life of me where this goes. Does anyone know?



The Hutzl crew likes to occasionally include a mystery part... that's what you have there.


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

Likely a throttle piece on a Honda GX series


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 29, 2016)

Thanks guys! I was struggling to think of anywhere on the saw where that could be used. It being a extra part makes sense. Now I can stop worrying lol.


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## jackjcc (Dec 29, 2016)

Mac&Homelite said:


> Thanks guys! I was struggling to think of anywhere on the saw where that could be used. It being a extra part makes sense. Now I can stop worrying lol.



No, that is part of the anti vibe that is attached from the handle to the cylinder. It goes in the center of the spring and attaches to a silver metal part that is bolted to the cylinder. 


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

I stopped looking hate that


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 29, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> No, that is part of the anti vibe that is attached from the handle to the cylinder. It goes in the center of the spring and attaches to a silver metal part that is bolted to the cylinder.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes, limits travel. Used on top right and bottom front antivibe mounts.

Do not leave them out.


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

they do not show on the ipl, the springs attach on top of the cylinder and it does not show anything that resembles it. don't doubt you a bit. one of those things if you have not handled it how do you know.


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## Mac&Homelite (Dec 29, 2016)

Full 360 here. Really appreciate all the help from all you guys. That makes sense now. Just tried it out and fits in there perfectly. Don't think one is supposed to be in the bottom spring mount though. Mine didn't come with one, and I can't see how one would stay in there. It must just have this system on the spring that's on the cylinder. Kinda funny how Stihl omits parts like this and the other anti-vibe piece that connects on the gas tank. Don't understand the logic of that, but what do I know...


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## Ozhoo (Dec 29, 2016)

Sure enough. I didn't even know it came apart... I need to get out more often.


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## Bedford T (Dec 29, 2016)

Since it's farmertec I should have suspected it was broken down into components. Where the Stihl would be delivered in one piece and shown on IPL.


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## jackjcc (Dec 29, 2016)

Bedford T said:


> they do not show on the ipl, the springs attach on top of the cylinder and it does not show anything that resembles it. don't doubt you a bit. one of those things if you have not handled it how do you know.



My ipl shows it. I'm using media cat so that is the most up to date. Could have been a change from an original design. 


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 29, 2016)

yep, I saw that item when changing piston/cylinder on my 361, kinda different..If I remember right you have to take it loose to get the cylinder off.


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## Bedford T (Dec 30, 2016)

jackjcc said:


> My ipl shows it. I'm using media cat so that is the most up to date. Could have been a change from an original design.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My IPL was 2006


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## davhul (Dec 30, 2016)

The new Stihl ipl shows it separate. Hate that Stihl stopped updating media cat after it's last update.


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## jackjcc (Dec 31, 2016)

I'm all finished. Quite pleased with how it runs, going to cut wood tomorrow with it. 







Got 3/8th full chisel semi skip on a 20" bar. Should cut nice. 






Installed the husky deflector kit. I put two 3/8ths holes side by side and cut out the space between with a cutting wheel. I would say it's about 75% of the exhaust port. The acceleration between no muff mod and muff mod is substantial. 

Did anybody advance the timing on their saw yet? 


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## EB Saw (Dec 31, 2016)

Looks great! I just purchased a huztl 440 kit and will be posting the build on the thread.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 31, 2016)

What I did to mine on the muffler.




Takes ten minutes with a cut off wheel in the Dremel. Adjustable to boot.

Semi skip. What for?


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## jackjcc (Dec 31, 2016)

I had it available to me, I've been quite happy using it on 562s-660s, quite impressed with it and cuts as fast as full comp. I deal mostly with hardwood and this semi skip has done well. 


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## jackjcc (Dec 31, 2016)

67L36Driver said:


> What I did to mine on the muffler.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Adjustable? Man that sure is sweet 


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## jackjcc (Jan 2, 2017)

Well, nothing to report. I had it running, tuned it slightly, then installed the muff mod and deflector. Started right up, tuned it slightly again. Left it outside (15-30* F) for the other night and yesterday. Got a tree down to the spar (thankfully this tree was in my yard) and grabbed the saw. Barely got it to start and slightly spool and acts like it isn't getting fuel. After that all I could get was a pop here and there. 

So this happened last week and all I did was take apart the fuel system and check it for leaks, all passed and the tank vent checked out. So I put it back together and left it inside. I brought it outside and it started right up, 3rd pull, like I said before. 

So could the cold honestly affect it negatively? I didn't like the fit o the manifold upon first assembly, just didn't seem to fill the space and it's important that it does to seal up to the carb so the impulse works. I'm gonna keep it inside tonight and try it tomorrow. If it starts I'll have to assume that the cold is shrinking the rubber more than it should. 

I set the metering arm flush, replaced the gaskets with new aftermarket and replaced the metering spring. Which was a lot longer than the replacement. 


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 2, 2017)

Is it possible you have the carb adjusted a little on the lean side then when it got cold it was really too lean?


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## jackjcc (Jan 2, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Is it possible you have the carb adjusted a little on the lean side then when it got cold it was really too lean?



Good point, I'll give it a half turn. I had added a little more to the L and a fair bit to idle trying to get it to stay running but no dice. I did a 660 muff mod yesterday that I had to add a half turn to the low just to get it to idle, opening up the muffler can really change things. I'll start with 1.5 turns out on the L. 


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 4, 2017)

For those of those of you who have had your kits assembled and running for awhile, what parts have you replaced with OEM so far?


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 4, 2017)

The compression release!!!

Look back several pages.

Post #64.









Also, the bleed hole(s) are sinfully too large.


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## tbohn (Jan 7, 2017)

It looks like the 360 and 361 kits are still ~$135 on the farmertec.com site. Maybe I'll have to get one of each of these kits before the prices go up.

It sounds like there may be some issues with the 361 crankshaft breaking. Has anyone built both these kits and have a preference for one of them?


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## jackjcc (Jan 7, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> The compression release!!!
> 
> Look back several pages.
> 
> ...



I tried prying mine off, since I didn't use it, and I was not successful. Maybe they got a better supplier lol. 


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 7, 2017)

I did put the cap/handle back on a gave it a squeeze with my bench vise. Now I can't pull it off to save my life.

But, not going to use it. Bleed holes are monstrous too big anyway.


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## trboxman (Jan 7, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> I did put the cap/handle back on a gave it a squeeze with my bench vise. Now I can't pull it off to save my life.
> 
> But, not going to use it. *Bleed holes are monstrous too big anyway.*



Did it start with that Texas Button? Yes? Then it's not too big, it works.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 7, 2017)

trboxman said:


> Did it start with that Texas Button? Yes? Then it's not too big, it works.



Not without a prime at first. But it also had the over stiff metering lever spring in the carb.

The bleed holes in the Farmertec comp release are sized for an MS880 I believe.[emoji13]


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## weimedog (Jan 7, 2017)

With those smaller saw...just plug them. Save a lot of grief.


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## trboxman (Jan 7, 2017)

They are huge, not gonna argue that...fortunately I don't really use the decomp.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 10, 2017)

Weighed all the offerings on the Farmertec site and ordered another 361.

Most bang for us cheap fellows.

Besides, I've another 3/8" x 20" bar/chain hanging on the peg board for it.[emoji108]


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## weimedog (Jan 10, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> Weighed all the offerings on the Farmertec site and ordered another 361.
> 
> Most bang for us cheap fellows.
> 
> Besides, I've another 3/8" x 20" bar/chain hanging on the peg board for it.[emoji108]



Pictures??


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## tbohn (Jan 10, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> Weighed all the offerings on the Farmertec site and ordered another 361.
> 
> Most bang for us cheap fellows.
> 
> Besides, I've another 3/8" x 20" bar/chain hanging on the peg board for it.[emoji108]


I've been think about a ms360 or ms361 kit. I am concerned about the broken cranks. Plus I might wait to see if they put out a MS380/381 kit soon.


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 10, 2017)

Well I just got my 361 finished yesterday. Fired up fine today but bogs down and dies when I pull the trigger. Came back this afternoon and now it won't start. How many turns out on the carb have you guys done to start with?


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 10, 2017)

If it's not got limiters I go a little over one turn.


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## jackjcc (Jan 10, 2017)

I went 1.5 but barely started dropped it to below 1 after tuning. I haven't tried starting it again yet. I'm testing its cold starting abilities now. 

New it started at 1 turn out no problem. Then I modded the muffler and tuned it quick, well I didn't do it right. At 1.25 turns out I couldn't get it going. Then I figured it wasn't rich enough so I went to 1.5. Took 50 pulls to get it to go...the first 10 seconds of half throttle filled my garage with blue smoke. Turned it down quite a lot after that. I'm really surprised it fired in that condition. 


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 10, 2017)

Have you checked the carb metering lever spring.





If it has the long one find a short one and try that.


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## jackjcc (Jan 10, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> Have you checked the carb metering lever spring.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yes I replaced it, it was just like your pic. Original vs replacement. 


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 10, 2017)

Well, I got it to run tonight.  It was pretty finicky (took me 3 different sessions today) to get running. I have no idea how far out the needles are, and don't really care either because it runs, for now. Will see when I start it up next time to see if it held a tune or not. Next step is to put the bar on it and try it in some wood.


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## Bedford T (Jan 11, 2017)

Mac&Homelite said:


> Well, I got it to run tonight.  It was pretty finicky (took me 3 different sessions today) to get running. I have no idea how far out the needles are, and don't really care either because it runs, for now. Will see when I start it up next time to see if it held a tune or not. Next step is to put the bar on it and try it in some wood.



a couple of us noticed and in the spirit of helping thy neighbor do you own and use a pressure/vac tester on that beast? i was just whining in the neighboring thread about increased air leaks showing up in the kits, in general. besides it sucking air and ruining the jug/piston while you are cutting that wood tomorrow if you got a weak or missing pulse the carb will not be pumping fuel right. you probably got that covered already.

if you dont know, i am not sure what to tell you. it would seem like that if you got the washers on the carb correctly and the manifold is tight on the jug that you might take some carb cleaner and spray the base of the jug and if you hear an increase in rpms for a brief moment its likely leaking at the base. i have never done that, it never occurred to me in the heat of battle. i was just thinking about what i might offer up to help you. for some reason a lot of folks are reluctant to make that purchase. the ones i have noticed leak seem to occur on the clutch side. good luck with it. wood chips are good.


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## davhul (Jan 11, 2017)

A few things to look out for when you start using and cutting some wood. The tune is important. It should have a smooth crisp throttle off idle. If it Boggs off idle check you low setting. You can use the lean drop off method to get it close. Then go to high setting it should four stroke out of the cut and clean up in the cut. Spec is 2800 idle and 14000 wot use that to get you close. 
If you have a tune that won't hold or it keeps bogging at idle or even a idle that can't be brought down with adjustment I would do a pressure/vacc test to rule out a air leak. I hate for you to have more problems or hunt for it. After you work the kinks out you'll have a nice mid size saw. I like the 360 and 038 series.


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 11, 2017)

Thank's for the advice guys. I do not own a pressure/vac kit yet. That is something I have wanted to get, but I opted for some other tools first. I'm pretty sure there are no air leaks (I think) as I tipped the saw every which way when it was running and the rpm never changed. When I was trying to get it started I was using some pretty old 40:1 fuel mix (my fault) so that didn't help getting it to start either. So far the tune seems to be very good off of idle. Never revved it up fully because chain wasn't installed yesterday. I will attempt to start again later today and see if everything is working correctly.


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## Bedford T (Jan 11, 2017)

fuel is important


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## davhul (Jan 11, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> fuel is important



Depending on your location and outside temp your old fuel might be a summer blend fuel also.


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 11, 2017)

Ok, i'm ashamed of this, but that fuel is probably at least over a year old. I know, I know, it did have stabilizer in it but still... I will drain the stuff out and put in some fresher 50:1 when I use it later.


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 11, 2017)

Doink! Put in new 50:1 fuel and I started it up a little while ago, ran fine, life is good. Then I put the bar and chain, started, ran for a couple of seconds, and was unable to get it to run after that. I turned in the jet screws, and they were both at least 4-5 if not more turns out. I have no idea how in the world I got it to run. After I flooded it nice and good I took the carb apart and found out that it had the long spring inside. I stole the spring out of a 017 carb and put that in. I couldn't get it to run when I put it back together, but I think that was because I had flooded it so well before. Hopefully the different spring gets it to run for me later.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 12, 2017)

Farmertec shows my last 361 order as shipped.

Haven't found any tracking.


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## Bedford T (Jan 12, 2017)

Did you look in your PayPal account? Where does it show it shipped. He mentioned in this mornings email they are still loading information and features into the website.


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## Bedford T (Jan 12, 2017)

And products from old site one by one


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 12, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Did you look in your PayPal account? Where does it show it shipped. He mentioned in this mornings email they are still loading information and features into the website.



Debited my Paypal on the 10th. Likely when it shipped.

Yes, the website is a tad wonky.


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## Bedford T (Jan 12, 2017)

The rules are they get paid when they ship. So the tracking # should appear when you log into your PayPal account beside the transaction. Call PayPal. I bet when the website is complete it will appear there to. I can ask next chance that pops up a lot.


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## jackjcc (Jan 12, 2017)

I'm still having trouble getting mine to start reliably. I'm getting a lot of fuel spitting back out the carb throat. It's enough that it runs and pools on the flat part of the rear handle. Anybody seen that before? 


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## Bedford T (Jan 12, 2017)

Is there an obstruction I the manifold? I know that must be an unlikely situation. But for it to be spitting it out. That's crazy.

That would also be a positive pressure. In thinking of causes


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## jackjcc (Jan 12, 2017)

No I've check everything a couple times. I was a bit past 1 turn on low so I moved it to 3/4 and I'll give it a spin tomorrow. Once it starts it runs great, good accel and WOT sounds good. So that makes me think there is not problem with the impulse...


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 12, 2017)

If it starts without a prime I doubt if the impulse is bad, especially if it keeps running for awhile.


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

For the fuel to spit out the front enough to pool. By positive pressure I meant blow back. It sprays it down the manifold so it's coming back. Have you done the pressure checks on the carb? You probably know all about that. I have some paperwork if you need it


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 13, 2017)

Can someone post a link that works for new Farmertec website. 

I get one that offers ten or a hundred units minimum order.


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

http://www.huztl.net/index.php?route=common/home


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 13, 2017)

Thanks.

I did see where they have a 200T copy for $116. [emoji108]minimum order of 100 units. [emoji22]


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

They are going to offer a kit for that saw in the coming months, sooner than later. The 250 as well


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

They have this first big festival and I think they will hit ground running when everybody is back home


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

Be careful what you see on the Alibaba and related sites. Huztl told me that assembled copies were bad juju. They would be seized and they no longer assemble farmertec saws


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

I just noticed as they are adding their product line back into their new website there sure are a lot of 200t parts up.


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## davhul (Jan 13, 2017)

jackjcc said:


> I'm still having trouble getting mine to start reliably. I'm getting a lot of fuel spitting back out the carb throat. It's enough that it runs and pools on the flat part of the rear handle. Anybody seen that before?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Just wondering on your starting procedure. If you already do it like this we'll have to dig alittle deeper into the problem. On all stihl's when cold put on choke and pull it til it fires off. This is Normally within 5-7 hard pulls. Could be just a burp. Then go one click up to half throttle and it should fire up at half throttle within a couple pulls. If yours won't stay on half throttle like my 660 kit then that would cause flooding also.


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 13, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> They are going to offer a kit for that saw in the coming months, sooner than later. The 250 as well


Oooh, I'm going to need to get that kit when it comes out! That and a 260 kit would round out the collection for me.


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## jackjcc (Jan 13, 2017)

davhul said:


> Just wondering on your starting procedure. If you already do it like this we'll have to dig alittle deeper into the problem. On all stihl's when cold put on choke and pull it til it fires off. This is Normally within 5-7 hard pulls. Could be just a burp. Then go one click up to half throttle and it should fire up at half throttle within a couple pulls. If yours won't stay on half throttle like my 660 kit then that would cause flooding also.



The linkage is all straight and it stays on half throttle after choke is off. I never get a pop, but after 15 pulls I got it to pop by holding the throttle open. That makes it seem like it is flooding. I'll give it 4 pulls on choke and flip it off and 4 more, see if it starts. It's probably possible it is just barely burping and I'm not recognizing it. 


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

He said they are coming. He said he loves us and wants the kits to be varied and good. I said we can't wait. I want a top handle.


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## davhul (Jan 13, 2017)

I would try it on half throttle without choke a couple pulls also just to see. Then try what you mentioned a couple times.


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## Thomas Venditto (Jan 13, 2017)

Dry the plug. Install. Pull 5-7x. Pull the plug and diagnose.
TomJV


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 13, 2017)

Ok, just went outside and tried to start the saw. No go. Any suggestions? Any possibility of it being a bad carb?


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## davhul (Jan 13, 2017)

Is the plug wet


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 13, 2017)

Plug is plenty wet, going to make sure the ignition system is all good and I don't have a sheared flywheel tomorrow. I say that because it's happened once or twice now where the cord won't retract and I have to pull pretty hard to get it unstuck, don't know if the pawls got stuck or what, but I will look into that tomorrow.


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

Pull your muffler first and check your rings. What you just described could be a ring hanging up


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

Another suggestion pull your carb and raise piston and let it sit overnight. Either clamp or empty the fuel/line. My carb leaked almost poured fuel


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## tbohn (Jan 13, 2017)

Mac&Homelite said:


> Plug is plenty wet, going to make sure the ignition system is all good and I don't have a sheared flywheel tomorrow. I say that because it's happened once or twice now where the cord won't retract and I have to pull pretty hard to get it unstuck, don't know if the pawls got stuck or what, but I will look into that tomorrow.


Could be a metering valve issue in the carb. I have dealt with similar symptom by adjusting the metering lever.


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

You might have two issues


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## jackjcc (Jan 13, 2017)

4 pulls on choke 4 pulls on half and the plug came out dry. Poured a little down the throat pops a few times and starts on half throttle. 

No issues once running, carb tunes holds idle but wonders up and down just a little. I don't have a bar on it so it is a little jumpy on the bench. I feel like it has to be an issue with the impulse. I guess I'll pull the carb apart and check the spring and metering lever. 


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## davhul (Jan 13, 2017)

Do you have a tach? You can get the low side close using lean drop off method.


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## jackjcc (Jan 13, 2017)

Yeah I have one. I've set to 3000 with la tuned max rpm on L to about 3450, dropped it back to 3000 with la, set 2800 with L. Set h by ear with a good 4 stroke. 

I didn't look up Stihls 361 carb setting, pretty sure what I used was the 660s. 


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## Bedford T (Jan 13, 2017)

Here are the settings


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 13, 2017)

tbohn said:


> Could be a metering valve issue in the carb. I have dealt with similar symptom by adjusting the metering lever.


I thought about that too. It is currently adjusted to just a hair below the top of the carb with the oem spring. Is it supposed to be different than what I have it set at?


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## davhul (Jan 13, 2017)

See if setting it the L to max rpm then bring the la down to 3200 then bring L down to 2800. See it that's idles better.


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## tbohn (Jan 13, 2017)

Mac&Homelite said:


> I thought about that too. It is currently adjusted to just a hair below the top of the carb with the oem spring. Is it supposed to be different than what I have it set at?


That's probably fine. If it too high the valve won't seat and you will flood. If it's too low the valve won't open and not get fuel. I try to set them level with the carb body but they have some tolerance.


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 14, 2017)

Ok, update on the no start situation. Checked a bunch of things, no ring catching, ect, still wouldn't fire. Then I switched the carb spring back to the one that came in it. Fired right up.  The jets are pretty close to normal settings this time too. I only gave it a rough tune (waiting for a tach) and stuck it in some wood. I have only done a couple of cuts with it, but it's really starting to grow on me now that it is running. Well worth the time it took to put it together.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 15, 2017)

Mac&Homelite said:


> Ok, update on the no start situation. Checked a bunch of things, no ring catching, ect, still wouldn't fire. Then I switched the carb spring back to the one that came in it. Fired right up.  The jets are pretty close to normal settings this time too. I only gave it a rough tune (waiting for a tach) and stuck it in some wood. I have only done a couple of cuts with it, but it's really starting to grow on me now that it is running. Well worth the time it took to put it together.



Interesting indeed. 
[emoji848]

I plan on installing the carb out of my second 'kit' in my first one as is, just to see how it acts.

Maybe another weeks wait for delivery.


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## jackjcc (Jan 15, 2017)

I'm gonna put the original spring in and see how that affects my problem. 


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## jackjcc (Jan 16, 2017)

I found the problem, I didn't properly set the metering arm. Popped on the third pull, so happy it was a simple, yet stupidly overlooked problem. 


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 16, 2017)

jackjcc said:


> I found the problem, I didn't properly set the metering arm. Popped on the third pull, so happy it was a simple, yet stupidly overlooked problem.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Gota love it when it is the simple things that always seem to cause the most trouble. So are you using the stock spring in this carb, or an oem one?


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## jackjcc (Jan 16, 2017)

I'm using an OEM one. I also swapped all the gaskets. The ones that came with it didn't seem bad. 


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 19, 2017)

Came across this on afleetcommand's youtube channel the other day and though it was relevant if anyone didn't already see or hear about this tip regarding the chain adjusters that come with the kit (if anyone actually still runs them). It is using a piece of brass tubing 3/16" by .014 thickness (K&S stock number #8129) as a bushing on the end of the adjuster that sits in the case. The theory is that the pin has too much slop and therefore destroys the gears quickly. I got a piece of the tubing and put it on the adjuster and it is a world of difference. Actually pretty smooth now. I don't know if this will completely prevent the gears from wearing out, but I will continue to run the adjuster in mine to see how it performs.
I have a pretty good feeling this may have already been discussed on the ms660 kit thread, but I'm not sure as I don't follow it closely.


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## Bedford T (Jan 19, 2017)

Davhul is the guy that came up with the fix. Anytime weimedog runs into a problem he just buys the OEM part. There are guys like davhul out there weimedog is just is not one of them. If you look at his list of things he replaced it's very long. Not so on the problem solvers saws. I hate you got that and davhul gets. Left out impression


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 19, 2017)

If you use too many OEM parts you might as well buy an OEM saw. That's basically what I did only I bought it used..


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## imprezed (Jan 19, 2017)

I'm new here and have read this whole post and plan on ordering one of these kits. I want to see one run a few gallons of fuel and see how it holds up and breaks in on the short term.Does anyone have any time on them yet?


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## Mac&Homelite (Jan 19, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Davhul is the guy that came up with the fix. Anytime weimedog runs into a problem he just buys the OEM part. There are guys like davhul out there weimedog is just is not one of them. If you look at his list of things he replaced it's very long. Not so on the problem solvers saws. I hate you got that and davhul gets. Left out impression


Yes I know weimedog was not the one who came up with the fix. I knew that someone else on AS came up with the idea, but he never mentioned who in the video. Thank's for letting me know who did come up with the fix. 



imprezed said:


> I'm new here and have read this whole post and plan on ordering one of these kits. I want to see one run a few gallons of fuel and see how it holds up and breaks in on the short term.Does anyone have any time on them yet?


Welcome to the site! I only have about a half a tank of run-time on mine so far, but so far I really enjoy the saw. There are a few shortcomings in some parts (my opinion), but it is nothing too major. If I were to do it over again, I would probably have gone with the new ms440 kit, but I don't think you can go wrong with either kit.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 20, 2017)

I wonder how popular a 200T kit would be...


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## jackjcc (Jan 20, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I wonder how popular a 200T kit would be...



Incredibly. Huztle has added every major end item for the 200t. I think they will release a kit for it and the 290. 


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 20, 2017)

I practically have a 390, mostly made of AM parts, except maybe the crankshaft and the engine cradle which I had to reinforce the loop under the handle bar with aluminum and JB Weld. You can't tell by looking because I found some paint to match the yellowed OEM part. I really might be interested in a 200T kit if price is right..


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 20, 2017)

My second 361 is somewhere between China and JFK last I looked.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 20, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> My second 361 is somewhere between China and JFK last I looked.


 Hopefully it won't have to go through Chicago...


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## Bedford T (Jan 20, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I wonder how popular a 200T kit would be...



The kit is coming and I will buy two. I want to repay my neighbor for the countless things he has helped me on. I will give him a kit and help him build it. You know then he will be addicted too.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 20, 2017)

The second 361 hit my porch.[emoji106] Took eleven days.

Cylinder casting much better than the first one. Machined surfaces bright and shiny. Their inventory must be turning over much quicker.
Round up some key parts from my local Stihl dealer next. Muffler gaskets and decomp valve for sure.


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## Bedford T (Jan 20, 2017)

They don't buy the jugs. They make them and the better finish is a result of us asking for it.


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## brandonstc6 (Jan 20, 2017)

If the 200t kit comes out, I'll probably get one 


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 21, 2017)

Stihl muffler gasket vrs paper pos in kit.






OEM is soft aluminum.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 21, 2017)

Got the crankcase together. Ruined two PTO side crank seals. Stupid snap ring groove rolled them out.

Now I find the wrist pin is 11mm when it is supposed to be 10mm.[emoji35]


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 21, 2017)

Made a sleeve from .003" brass shim stock to go around crankshaft.





Should have made it from the get go.[emoji849]


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2017)

Too bad you can't rent a seal tool. Nice solution


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 21, 2017)

Stihl shows a wrist pin 11mm x 8mm x 33mm. Piston is for some other 47mm bore engine.
Messaged Hutzl to replace piston or pin.

See what they reply.[emoji848]


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2017)

Well some of them are interchangeable. I don't know enough to provide any help. I know that much. If the piston with rings fits you just need the correct circlip. I think they have become aware that training is important. I have the most bizarre story over hlsupply and circlips. It's not just the Chinese they screw them up..Trust me


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 21, 2017)

Typical cross contamination of parts bins.

Look at MS360 IPL next.

Edit:
MS360 calls for 10mm x 6mm x 32mm wrist pin.

If Farmertec sends me a piston w/11mm pin bore then the crank isn't going to work as the small end is sized for a 10mm bore needle bearing.

WTF!


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2017)

It sucks it's slowed you down. Circlips and woodruff keys are always on hand for me.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 21, 2017)

I wish they made the circlips like the automotive ones, with the double tang on them so they can be installed easier. I think Echo does that, at least on some models.


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## Bedford T (Jan 21, 2017)

Is the diameter and size the same as something echo makes?


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 21, 2017)

The only Echo saws I've taken apart lately were smaller top handle saws which definitely had smaller wrist pins and clips. A bigger Echo saw might have a clip that would fit a Stihl.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 22, 2017)

Since we are dead in the water on 361 #2 I've turned my attention to 361 #1.

It has developed a 'dies in the cut' issue. Maybe fuel delivery or the PTO crankshaft seal.

I replaced the seal as the original looked 'puckered'. Checked the cylinder bolts. And replaced the crap paper muffler gasket with OEM.

Checked comp at 160 psi. [emoji106] has maybe 20-30 minutes run time on him.


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## tbohn (Jan 22, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> The only Echo saws I've taken apart lately were smaller top handle saws which definitely had smaller wrist pins and clips. A bigger Echo saw might have a clip that would fit a Stihl.


Echo 600P pin is 11mm. The clip is 0.78mm diameter. The 590 is the same. I do like these style clips. Just pinch them together and insert. Really nice for taking back out. I just happen to have a 600p apart while I wait for missing parts for my Farmertec ms440...


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 22, 2017)

Yeah, I used to work on cars quite a bit and those type circlips are much easier to install and remove plus the shorter ends wouldn't be prone to breaking like the aftermarket ones.


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 23, 2017)

Used Farmertec website twice to message them about the piston & wrist pin incompatibility. No response yet.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 23, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> Used Farmertec website twice to message them about the piston & wrist pin incompatibility. No response yet.


 I imagine they're pretty busy right now, must be selling tons of stuff right now..still haven't got my items I ordered before Christmas...


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## Ozhoo (Jan 23, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> Used Farmertec website twice to message them about the piston & wrist pin incompatibility. No response yet.



I got an email 2 days ago but they've dropped off the grid on Holiday.


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## davhul (Jan 23, 2017)

I got a email 2am eastern this morning about a order I placed on a elaso handle. I didn't enter my city and Lynn emailed asking


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## Bedford T (Jan 23, 2017)

I noticed eBay did not have any notices. Maybe they got americanized and had a crew working


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## davhul (Jan 23, 2017)

I ordered off huztl site


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 23, 2017)

Ozhoo said:


> I got an email 2 days ago but they've dropped off the grid on Holiday.
> 
> View attachment 553218



I remember Tet 1969 was quiet, unlike 1968.[emoji15]


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## El Moobs (Jan 23, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I have the most bizarre story over hlsupply and circlips.



I heard about that.......


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## grizz55chev (Jan 23, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Yeah, I used to work on cars quite a bit and those type circlips are much easier to install and remove plus the shorter ends wouldn't be prone to breaking like the aftermarket ones.


I've seen these type aftermarket clips take out engines, the ears tend to break off and trash piston and cylinder. It's well documented if you look.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 23, 2017)

grizz55chev said:


> I've seen these type aftermarket clips take out engines, the ears tend to break off and trash piston and cylinder. It's well documented if you look.


 I've looked and it's not the same. The Echo clips aren't like the aftermarket Chinese ones, the ears on them are short and probably more well built. I've bought P/C kits before that had circlips in them that weren't much stronger than bailing wire, you have to replace those or risk them coming out. Those are the silver colored ones with the one long ear on them. The Stihl clips are an iffy fit since they just barely are thick enough to cover the edge of the piston pin. The AM pistons appear to have a bigger groove than the Stihl pistons.


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## jackjcc (Jan 23, 2017)

grizz55chev said:


> I've seen these type aftermarket clips take out engines, the ears tend to break off and trash piston and cylinder. It's well documented if you look.



I always remove the ears even though it makes them harder to install. I started doing that after seeing the results of their failure. But usually they fail due to the saw being overheated through a few reasons. 


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 23, 2017)

You don't see nearly as many Echo saws trashed as you do other brands but that could be for a variety of reasons, lower rpms, more informed users, etc..


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## Ozhoo (Jan 23, 2017)

These Hutzl's ears seem to border on ridiculous. Here's clipped vs. unclipped.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 23, 2017)

Yeah, that's a little bit big...Some of the Chinese clips are a very large diameter for the wrist pin hole you have to put them into. My last one was so big it almost touched both ends together putting it in the groove...maybe they made it for a bigger saw and got it in the wrong kit..


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 23, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Yeah, that's a little bit big...Some of the Chinese clips are a very large diameter for the wrist pin hole you have to put them into. My last one was so big it almost touched both ends together putting it in the groove...maybe they made it for a bigger saw and got it in the wrong kit..



Don't doubt that for a moment. 

This last kit I got appears to have the wrong piston.[emoji37]


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## blsnelling (Jan 23, 2017)

Ozhoo said:


> These Hutzl's ears seem to border on ridiculous. Here's clipped vs. unclipped.
> 
> View attachment 553376


That's a trashed topend just waiting to happen!!!


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 23, 2017)

Looks like if you buy a kit you'd better inspect it carefully before putting it together. I always though Huztl was one of the better dealers too.


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## Dieseldash (Feb 13, 2017)

Any official consensus on what's the better kit? Ms360 or ms361? Kinda looking at another project either a ms360 or maybe rebuilding a 026. Wish Hutzl had a MS260 kit. I'm a big fan of the 50ish cc class saw. You guys have any preference between a ms260 and ms360's?

Sorry for the off tangent ramble. This is the only Hutzl MS360/361 thread I could find.


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## Bedford T (Feb 13, 2017)

Next scheduled kits out of the chute 038 and 070. No eta given. 070 sounds way to big for you. The 038 is a classic.


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## Mac&Homelite (Feb 13, 2017)

Dieseldash said:


> Any official consensus on what's the better kit? Ms360 or ms361? Kinda looking at another project either a ms360 or maybe rebuilding a 026. Wish Hutzl had a MS260 kit. I'm a big fan of the 50ish cc class saw. You guys have any preference between a ms260 and ms360's?
> 
> Sorry for the off tangent ramble. This is the only Hutzl MS360/361 thread I could find.


I was in the same boat as you. I really wanted a 50cc class saw as well, but ended up getting the 361. I went towards the 361 primarily for the better anti-vibe over the 360. I have fallen in love with the saw.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 13, 2017)

I'd still like to see them come up with a MS200T or something of that sort..


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## Bedford T (Feb 13, 2017)

On the 200t they said they had an issue. I asked for more info and offered to try and solve the issue for them. I have resources that are capable. My intention is to persuade them. I really want that kit. I will keep at it you can be certain of that. That ball is in play. Might require some begging and I will be willing to gravel some. Will advise when I have more.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 13, 2017)

Even the 193T wouldn't be all that bad..


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## Jasonrkba (Feb 13, 2017)

Any chance those paint chips get sucked into the combustion chamber?


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## Dieseldash (Feb 13, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Next scheduled kits out of the chute 038 and 070. No eta given. 070 sounds way to big for you. The 038 is a classic.




Of all the Stihl models I'm surprised those 2 are the next scheduled parts kits. Seems kind of redundant with the better 360, 440, and 660 designs currently offered. 

I built an MS660 so no need for a 070 and a 038 might be a good design but the other offerings look much better. The 200T would be a no brainer as would a 260. Also if they could come up with a big bore Husky like a 288 or even a 272xp kit I'd have to have one.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 14, 2017)

Not sure about the 260, those saws are getting kinda cheap so just buy a 260 instead of the kit.


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## Bedford T (Feb 15, 2017)

I think anybody that does milling will find a use for the 070 kit. They have those two saw mills. I saw the 24" used on YouTube. The guy must have had a dull chain or maybe just wrong type chain on it and he was trying to cut a big knot with it.

But the 070 and a 36" mill would be a nice tool to own.
http://www.huztl.net/36-Inch-Holzff...-Milling-From-14-to-36-Guide-Bar-p228061.html


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## jd548esco72 (Feb 15, 2017)

you guys ain't helping my CAD at all--lol 

i'm getting the itch to do another chi-com clone of the 361-440 -- 372 sizes--lol


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## Bedford T (Feb 15, 2017)

The 440 is hard to beat. It cost more. Part quality is very good.


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## blsnelling (Feb 15, 2017)

AM 070/090s have been available for years.


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## jd548esco72 (Feb 15, 2017)

i built a 440 from hutzl and OEM stuff a few years ago and it is still going strong . it went with out a hitch. 

later i built a 372XP clone. it had a 'fussy" carb for a while . after a little tuning it is really coming on strong-- i ran it a little today with a 24" -- it runs so well now -- it would be easy to forget it is a clone-- 

right now i am running 50 to one mix in it too-- we shall see how long it holds up-- 

right now it is near the top of my favorite saws list -- not bad for a clone!!!

i'm soo tempted to build another -- and i got a semi load of 70cc so it ain't like i need another----lol---


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## Dieseldash (Feb 16, 2017)

Has anyone seen or built one of the MS360 kits? My old man has a real MS361 pro so I'm very familiar with the 361.


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## Mac&Homelite (Feb 18, 2017)

Say, has anyone had problems with the tank vents not venting that you have noticed? I haven't run my saw for a couple of weeks, and removed my air filter today to take the carb off and the whole area nearby was covered with fuel. Any way to test without pressure/vacuum tester?


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## jackjcc (Feb 18, 2017)

My tank vent area has fuel residue around it, it's just a low quality part. It functions but leaks a very small amount when releasing pressure. 


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 18, 2017)

Mac&Homelite said:


> Say, has anyone had problems with the tank vents not venting that you have noticed? I haven't run my saw for a couple of weeks, and removed my air filter today to take the carb off and the whole area nearby was covered with fuel. Any way to test without pressure/vacuum tester?


 You'd have to at least have a gauge, a tee fitting and some small hose. They're not too expensive at Harbor Freight or a discount place. I was told this and found it to be true: you can actually suck on the hose and create the 7 hg vacuum to test it with, seriously...


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## cvx1170 (Feb 19, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> On the 200t they said they had an issue. I asked for more info and offered to try and solve the issue for them. I have resources that are capable. My intention is to persuade them. I really want that kit. I will keep at it you can be certain of that. That ball is in play. Might require some begging and I will be willing to gravel some. Will advise when I have more.


Hi, 
Any time frame that those 200 and 026-260 could arrive as kits on their Website? This would enlarge the portfolio from 200 via 26-36-44-66 also 346 could be a nice placement. I'll start Husqvarna kit building next week with ported big bore on it. 
Tnx


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## Bedford T (Feb 19, 2017)

cvx1170 said:


> Hi,
> Any time frame that those 200 and 026-260 could arrive as kits on their Website? This would enlarge the portfolio from 200 via 26-36-44-66 also 346 could be a nice placement. I'll start Husqvarna kit building next week with ported big bore on it.
> Tnx


I told all I know on 200 and where they were at on it. Not sure where you got possibility of a 260, heard zero on 260 one. I heard and passed along the 038 and 070 were coming soon and that week they released the 038 it's on thier website and ready to buy and also mentioned the 070 was still coming. I started a 038 thread.

He also was considering copying a husky 254 or a 262. That sounded like a decision he has was just considering. I pointed out either or but the 262 might be best.

I not sure whether this is actually a 038, 380, 381. I got one coming and will figure that out.
http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repai...uretor-Fuel-Tank-Cylinder-Piston-p367961.html


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## Van462 (Mar 9, 2017)

67L36Driver said:


> Used Farmertec website twice to message them about the piston & wrist pin incompatibility. No response yet.



Any updates, My kit came in about the same time as your second kit. It was missing the entire hardware bag. I also had a 12mm wristpin with 11mm piston and bearing. I had them send out a 11mm wristpin ( and hardware) and it assembled fine. It may be the wrong piston. I didn't use a base gasket and squish was in the high 30's I think. Compression is only coming up to 120. I get some light coughs but hasn't fired off yet.

Edit let me go check to see if I have the original wristpin. I may have tossed it. I wrote earlier that I thought I had a 10mm but need to check.
I verified squish at .035 but going in from the spark plug hole this may not be fully in the right spot. Checked compression again and it was up in the 160's. I pulled the topend as I heard a piece of metal in the exhaust. Luckily I had only chopped off a bit of solder in the exhaust port. Rings and top end looks good but lots of fuel in the crankcase.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 9, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I told all I know on 200 and where they were at on it. Not sure where you got possibility of a 260, heard zero on 260 one. I heard and passed along the 038 and 070 were coming soon and that week they released the 038 it's on thier website and ready to buy and also mentioned the 070 was still coming. I started a 038 thread.
> 
> He also was considering copying a husky 254 or a 262. That sounded like a decision he has was just considering. I pointed out either or but the 262 might be best.
> 
> ...


 It appears to be an 038 or a variation of it. The MS380 has the flippy caps and the Huztl looks to have the screw in caps.


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## Van462 (Mar 10, 2017)

She breathes... I ended up pulling the top end off for reinspecton and found the crankcase flooded. Pulled the carb and reset the metering arm to .048ish below surface. Reassembled and it fired on the third pull to a smooth idle. Not it too bad I have trees to cut tomorrow doing volunteer trail clearing and my bar doesn't arrive until Monday. Guess I'll take the 193T in my backpack and have a 271 on standby if i come across larger trees down. Sounds terrific, I have the muffler modded as well.


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## Mac&Homelite (Mar 10, 2017)

Yeah, that muffler mod is pretty important. Amazing before and after with that saw.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 10, 2017)

I doubt I'll ever mod another muffler...it does cause ear problems you wouldn't believe...I have ear protection but I don't always have them on.


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## Mac&Homelite (Mar 10, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I doubt I'll ever mod another muffler...it does cause ear problems you wouldn't believe...I have ear protection but I don't always have them on.


I get where you're coming from. I've noticed the difference on my other saws and equipment, but not so much on this one. I was sorta supprised on that.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 10, 2017)

I guess it's okay to mod a muffler but be sure to wear your hearing protection when you start the saw, no exceptions or you'll be sorry and it may be irreversible.


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## Mac&Homelite (Mar 11, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I guess it's okay to mod a muffler but be sure to wear your hearing protection when you start the saw, no exceptions or you'll be sorry and it may be irreversible.


Totally agree. When I started mowing years ago, I didn't use hearing protection, now I feel lost without it. Having nice PPE that's comfortable helps so much. I never thought I would become a safety glasses and earmuff snob, but I guess it's a good thing.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 11, 2017)

It's called Tinnitus and many AS members have it, including myself. It's the ringing or cricket sounds you hear when there's no sound emitted. I asked my wife about a year ago if we had crickets in the house and she thought I was crazy so I did some research on it. I have found several that say they have a treatment but no sure cure. Loud noises cause or contribute to it, guess I got mine from all the chainsaws I repaired and fired up without first reaching for the earphones first.


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## Van462 (Apr 1, 2017)

I finially got to take out the new build. First job was to rip cut a 18" cedar to make a park bench. Ran it a bit rch to give it some extra lube. Ran a little smokey until I leaned it back out some. I may have to go with a factory fuel filter or just run the saw filled with more fuel. It appeared to have lean issues and once I topped off the tank they went away. Very happy with its rip performance , no way MS193T could handle that. The little top handle lives in a rucksack and is great for hiking into take out storm damage.


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## 67L36Driver (Apr 1, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> It's called Tinnitus and many AS members have it, including myself. It's the ringing or cricket sounds you hear when there's no sound emitted. I asked my wife about a year ago if we had crickets in the house and she thought I was crazy so I did some research on it. I have found several that say they have a treatment but no sure cure. Loud noises cause or contribute to it, guess I got mine from all the chainsaws I repaired and fired up without first reaching for the earphones first.



I get a check from the VA every month. Small arm fire and perimeter security for a 155mm self propelled outfit ruined my hearing.


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## Mac&Homelite (Jun 4, 2017)

Time to revive this thread. Begin cpr...on my 361 lol. Has anyone else had re-starting issues when the ambient temp gets in the 80s-90s. Today I got it to start to cut some wood and stopped to sharpen the chain. Did that and couldn't even get it to pop again. Believe it's getting flooded again, even though it is tuned correctly. Bad carb, faulty tank vent? What else could it be? I had the same problem not getting it to restart Friday also when it was in the low 90s. Thankfully I either was either done or had another saw both times, but I do not need this to happen again.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 4, 2017)

Mac&Homelite said:


> Time to revive this thread. Begin cpr...on my 361 lol. Has anyone else had re-starting issues when the ambient temp gets in the 80s-90s. Today I got it to start to cut some wood and stopped to sharpen the chain. Did that and couldn't even get it to pop again. Believe it's getting flooded again, even though it is tuned correctly. Bad carb, faulty tank vent? What else could it be? I had the same problem not getting it to restart Friday also when it was in the low 90s. Thankfully I either was either done or had another saw both times, but I do not need this to happen again.


 It wouldn't hurt to do a pressure test on the carburetor and check the tank vent like you said.. I haven't used my 361 enough to know if mine has that problem or not..


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## Van462 (Jul 15, 2017)

It appears the tank vent may be reacting to the fuel and hardening. I had some issues with my saw running and did a diagnostic teardown. Luckily I found an air leak under the cylinder before I did any damage. So I while I had the cylinder off I ported it, and did a vacuum/pressure test on the assembled motor. I found that a piece of bike inner tube sandwiched between the heatshield and exhaust port works great. I just shoved a grease syringe into the intake boot. Ran the saw and it flamed out. I did a vacuum check on the tank and it showed it was sealed and not venting. I poked a small drill bit thru the tank vent and it starting sucking in air. I tried to clean it up but it seems a bit too tight, so a Stihl one will go on order. With the twist part of the drill in the vent it can suck air thru the drill flutes and runs great.
Another 361 tip, don't lose the washer/gasket between the carb and the rear housing. It has been on backorder for months . Not sure it really a necessary part but I made a new one out of cardstock. Hutzl does have them for 59 cents.


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## Bedford T (Jul 15, 2017)

What do you think caused the cylinder leak?


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## Van462 (Jul 15, 2017)

Likely I damaged it. I had the cylinder off once before as I pulled it to to inspect the bottom end when I first built the saw. I smeared the gasket with sealant with permatex gray fuel proof sealant. I had tried to make a block off plate for the exhaust port and had issues getting a seal. I never had a successful pressure/vacuum test the first time, it leaked air out of the exhaust but I soaped the rest to look for bubbles and didn't see any and called it good enough. At first it ran great, maintained idle and great throttle response. Looks like it failed right where the case halves mate under the cylinder. 
Luckily I have learned a lot from reading post on this board and it made tracking down two separate issues a bit easier. I think I should have opened up the intake port a bit more while I had it off this time. I mostly wanted to port match the exhaust to the muffler gasket and there is a big difference there. Hopefully I can get this thing in some wood, but I usually cut volunteering in county parks and I suspect fire bans will stop sawing this week for the rest of summer.


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## Bedford T (Jul 15, 2017)

My first one leaked. Pressure gun and sealing plates solved that. Cost one cylinder and new tools. One great lesson...use the tools.


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## 67L36Driver (Jul 16, 2017)

Ref wrist pin retainers:





028 Farmertec above. 

The Stihl retainers are .032" wire diameter vrs. 040" Farmertec.

Shorten the 'ear' to a minimum.


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