# Can someone recommend a good draw knife?



## J1m

I am going to be cutting down a 30' sugar maple this fall to use as a flag pole in the spring. Can anyone recommend a good draw knife for removing the bark? I'll be storing the tree/pole in my heated barn over the winter and want it to dry asap so that I can stain it or paint it before standing it up. I know, it might (probably) take longer than the winter to dry but we'll see.


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## Chainsaw Master

Bailey's has one Bailey's - 13" Draw Knife


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## J1m

Chainsaw Master said:


> Bailey's has one Bailey's - 13" Draw Knife



Thanks for the link. Do you personally have this one? Seems the one review is terrible:

"Terrible tool in an unfinished state, just roughly grinded to a shape. Handles so close to the blade you will cut your fingers. No markings where, and by whom, made. Wooden handles secured only by a simple nut, no washer or lock nuts used. Plus I have to pay for return postage. Would not ever expect Bailey's to carry such a low quality product."


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## swift4me

Probably not much help, but I have my grandpa's opld one and love it. Aside from looking at garage sales, I'd try some of the collectible tool sites. Most guys don't even know what one is for, other than collecting, so the price might not be too bad. I see them here in France all the time, but maybe less so in the states.

Good luck.

Pete


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## J1m

Thanks Pete.

I asked at work if anyone had one I could borrow and most of the answers I got were "What's a draw knife?" So, you're right - most people don't have any idea what they are.

I ended up ordering one from Amazon.com. They're not cheap, though - it was $60.00 after shipping! Woah :msp_scared:


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## swift4me

I hope you like it. $60 with shipping seems about right if it is a good one. They are reallyt a great tool once you get used to using one.

Good luck.

Pete


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## fallen house

I got a "Timber Tuff" brand 10" drawknife from Tractor Supply Co. for about 30 dollars. Made in China. It was not at all sharp out of the box, but after an hour or so of sharpening I got a useable edge. It's done surprisingly well so far, I've used it to debark some oak logs and branches and it kept the edge well enough. I did not use it gently. 
I got the cheap one because I didn't want to use my good drawknife for debarking since most of my logs are pretty dirty and I was worried about ruining a good knife.
I realize that you already ordered one, but I thought I'd mention it anyway, in case someone else is also looking for one.


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## Old Blue

I am a rookie. Can you guys tell me if these draw knives are the usual way to debark a log before milling? About how long does it take? Do you have to cut and carve the bark off or does it just need to be coaxed off?

I'm hoping to someday do a little milling, and I'm still working on my game plan.

Old Blue
Under represented and over taxed in
Kali-bone-ya


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## JimmyT

Howdy Jim, take a look at this drawknife. Traditional stocks about 10 different models, just type in drawknife at the top of the page on the left side.---Draw Knife - 9-1/2" Curved Blade Mueller by Traditional Wood-Traditional Woodworker


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## JimmyT

Here's the drawknife link.---Draw Knife Selection offered by Traditional Woodworker


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## betterbuilt

:msp_mad:


JimmyT said:


> Howdy Jim, take a look at this drawknife. Traditional stocks about 10 different models, just type in drawknife at the top of the page on the left side.---Draw Knife - 9-1/2" Curved Blade Mueller by Traditional Wood-Traditional Woodworker



I own one similar to the one in JimmyT's link. I use it a few times a year and like it alot. I can say if you get a older one make sure you check the handles really good. A friend of mine has a flexible one that you can bend and get in to some of the spots that a solid ones can't reach. Good luck.


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## woodweasel

if you're still searching for ideas and info, I make my own draw knives for peeling logs to build log furniture. I make them from truck leaf springs. I've tried lighter weight store bought ones but mine are heavier and pull through bumps and staubs easier. I take a hatchet and knock off all the branch stubs flush otherwise you have to peel around each one. May leave a few for character (looks) depending. Green trees peel alot easier (like a banana) and you need to get the bark off to get the log to start drying out, plus that will start killing any larve that may be inside the log. The log will also rot faster if the bark is left on. If interested, I can go into detail on how the draw knifes are made and put up a few pics. Also there is a tool called a peeling spud. Kinda looks like a straight hoe but made with heavier gauge steel (thicker). You throw the log on the ground and start peeling off the bark with a pushing motion. Of course the log will peel easier if its been around for a few seasons to where the bark is coming loose. A heavier tool sharpened at the right angle is what gets this job done. Good luck, ......weasel out! View attachment 208077


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## betterbuilt

woodweasel said:


> if you're still searching for ideas and info, I make my own draw knives for peeling logs to build log furniture. I make them from truck leaf springs. I've tried lighter weight store bought ones but mine are heavier and pull through bumps and staubs easier. I take a hatchet and knock off all the branch stubs flush otherwise you have to peel around each one. May leave a few for character (looks) depending. Green trees peel alot easier (like a banana) and you need to get the bark off to get the log to start drying out, plus that will start killing any larve that may be inside the log. The log will also rot faster if the bark is left on. If interested, I can go into detail on how the draw knifes are made and put up a few pics. Also there is a tool called a peeling spud. Kinda looks like a straight hoe but made with heavier gauge steel (thicker). You throw the log on the ground and start peeling off the bark with a pushing motion. Of course the log will peel easier if its been around for a few seasons to where the bark is coming loose. A heavier tool sharpened at the right angle is what gets this job done. Good luck, ......weasel out! View attachment 208077



I'd be interested in hearing how you make a draw knife.


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## Sethro

Go to a sawmill and ask if they have any old chipper knifes or counter knifes. Grind the ends for handles and there ya go


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## qweesdraw

I have gotten mine from estate sales- garage sales- pawn shops-craigslist.
The ones with missing handles can be found for dirt and usually the best ones.
A hardwood branch, belt sander,drill a hole and tack a washer on the end with a welder.
Mark
P.S. If you have never used one the flat edge goes up.


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## AT sawyer

Drawknives are all over Ebay. Find a thick one like this, as it helps to have some heft behind the blade. Only sharpen the bevel side.
http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/Draw-Knife-/170754729610?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c1c6668a


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## twoclones

*How to use a draw knife.*

Here is a video of a friend using a draw knife to peel log spindles.


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## AT sawyer

Nice sawhorse jig.


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## 4675797

I would recemend a Gränsfors Bruks draw knife this is a great one I have peeled about eight 16 inch pines with it. Its a wonderful knife the quality is remembered long after the price is frogoten.


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## twoclones

4675797 said:


> I would recemend a Gränsfors Bruks draw knife



I have a Gränsfors Bruks carving axe. Worth ever penny!


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## 820wards

J1m said:


> I am going to be cutting down a 30' sugar maple this fall to use as a flag pole in the spring. Can anyone recommend a good draw knife for removing the bark? I'll be storing the tree/pole in my heated barn over the winter and want it to dry asap so that I can stain it or paint it before standing it up. I know, it might (probably) take longer than the winter to dry but we'll see.




Jim,

I made my own draw knife from a horse shoe file. I first put the file in my BBQ pit a BBQ'd most of the day with it in there. I let it cool off and then ground all the file marks down with a electric grinder.

Here I'm ready to cut the blade shape with my plasma cutter. A regular cutting torch works just as good.







Here you can see how it was cut from the file compared with an uncut file.






Using my six inch grinder with various grit wheels the basic blade is contoured and sharpened.






Here is a backside view.






Here is the finished draw knife. I welded 1/4-20 bolts to the ends of the file for attaching some handles I made from some Black Oak I milled. I re-tempered the blade and did a final sharpening with diamond stones and I still haven't had to re-sharpen the edge yet. I use it for removing bark and contouring pieces I'm working on. I took it with me this past year on a hunting trip with my brother. It's great for making small shavings when starting fires.






Just another option...
jerry-


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## J1m

Wow! Nice work, 820. Way beyond my tool-set/skill-set. Props for your handi-work! Rep sent!


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## 820wards

J1m said:


> Wow! Nice work, 820. Way beyond my tool-set/skill-set. Props for your handi-work! Rep sent!



Thank you.

jerry-


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