# DIY Rope bridge



## beastmaster (Sep 17, 2013)

I want to replace my last home made rope bridge on my Edge saddle. Last time I used some 1/2 husky rope I got as a sample. But sherrill sells rope by the foot so I have more of a selection. I'll be attaching it using double fishermen knots. I'm replaceing the attachment clevises also. Any that are better then an other, and any I should stay a way from? I have confidants in this type of a bridge attachment, it's the best kind of rope for the job I worry about. It's ridiculous they want almost 50.00 for a replacement rope bridge. 
I know this has been gone over in the past, but the search isn't working for some reason. One more question, is it safe to have two attachments clipped to one alum. ring on the bridge. I seem to have heard it's not, but I get tempted to some times. Am I being over cautious?


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## NYTREECLIMBER (Sep 18, 2013)

I've used tachyon/velocity and rocket line on rope bridges liked em all but tachyon seemed to hold up better then the others.now I have the treemotion fat boy version and I have two rings and a small dmm swivel on the bridge when using the rings I always clip into both of them and if I need another tie in point I can just attach to the swivel. The only downside to having three pieces on your bridge is when you walk around you sound like a wind chime lol 


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## joezilla11 (Sep 18, 2013)

Edge replacement bridge shows as 16.95, for the piece of rope. Anyone know the specs on that? Anyways I use 1/2 xtc on my cougar off of someone else's recommendation. Had it tied to the rings and it worked well. I just took it off the other day and did the liger mod and I had a hard time getting the knots to loosen up off the rings so I'd have no problem trusting that again.


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## sgreanbeans (Sep 19, 2013)

joezilla11 said:


> Edge replacement bridge shows as 16.95, for the piece of rope. Anyone know the specs on that? Anyways I use 1/2 xtc on my cougar off of someone else's recommendation. Had it tied to the rings and it worked well. I just took it off the other day and did the liger mod and I had a hard time getting the knots to loosen up off the rings so I'd have no problem trusting that again.



I was thinking about changing mine to a liger, the rings worked fine then? I was worried about the knots getting abused, but that would be way easier and cheaper to do that.


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## joezilla11 (Sep 19, 2013)

yea it worked great. like I said I had a hard time breaking the knots loose just so I could get it off. i was also curious to see if there was any abrasion to the rope from wood chips etc getting in the knot or between the knot and the rings and there was none. when i got it apart the rope still looked new and there were no issues there. i had no issues with biners on the bridge and the knots either. i switched to the liger and its still comfortable but makes the leg pads ride higher up on your thighs which seems to throw off my center of balance alittle and puts me more in a cradled sitting position when hanging, which is fine but different then stock. for a few bucks i was going to order a pair of those short 8.5'' dyneema loop runners to connect the the leg straps to the rigging plates just to try and get the stock feeling back in the saddle.


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## kyle goddard (Sep 20, 2013)

I had a problem with samson vortex 12.7mm as a rope bridge. I think the bend was to great for that diameter rope.. It flatend quickly and had bad wear. I couldn't see the core but it concerned me enuf to replace it. No big deal as rope by the foot is cheap. I whent back to what Buckingham,s stock bridge.


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## beastmaster (Sep 20, 2013)

Iv'e heard of some rope that the inside threads would break after a while potentially weaking it a lot because of the angle of the bend when weighted. I ask the experts at "tree stuff" and they recommended a 16 braid like safety blue.


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## NYTREECLIMBER (Sep 21, 2013)

That is why I use two rings on my bridge to lessen the bend in the rope







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## bootboy (Jan 21, 2014)

I stitch my own webbing bridges.

But I have experience in industrial sewing and a $2000 machine. So not really an option for most folks. I get my 2700lb nylon webbing for $0.30/ft

In my limited experience, the webbing holds up better over time than rope does.


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## imagineero (Jan 22, 2014)

I get surprised reading some of this stuff... Cost really isn't a factor here. Even if it was $50, that's a critical piece of life support gear right there, no backup! I don't know what kind of rope the bridge on my harness is made of, but it wears well and is very tight in the sheath. It's nowhere near as soft as normal climbing rope, and it's smaller in diameter. I don't think I could get any other sizes of rope through the small holes in the D's it ties onto. I know every penny counts, but seriously... $50! Even more ridiculous if it was only $16.95. Cost should not be the determining factor in selecting and specifying critical life support equipment.


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## bootboy (Jan 22, 2014)

Did I mention I sew it triple thick? 

I had a bridge I sewed tested by a friend who works in R&D for a climbing equipment manufacturer. The webbing, not my stitching, failed at just under 8,000 pounds. I feel safe.

If you're going to use rope, my recommendation would be to get some 7/16" kernmantle. Something like Max Wear from pmi. The stuff is firm and wears like steel cable. Perfect if you run a pulley or rings on your bridge.

I would avoid anything with an aramid (kevlar, technora etc) core. Aramid does not stand up to flex fatigue like nylon or polyester.


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