# Homelite 1050, Super 1050, 1020 - Which one is it?



## blsnelling (Nov 22, 2010)

I've got an old Homelite here I'm getting ready to go through. I believe it to be a 1050, but would like to confirm so that I get the right parts. I'm also interested in interchangability of the parts I need, listed below. If you have any of the parts, please PM me. BTW, it has compression, but the piston is scuffed, so I'm hoping to only need a piston.


Muffler Cover
Muffler Guard
Spike
Piston/Rings
Choke rod & knob
Crank Seals


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## Bill G (Nov 22, 2010)

The saw is a 1050.

Bill


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## blsnelling (Nov 22, 2010)

I'm assuming I can use a piston from any 1020, 1050, or 1130?


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## Scooterbum (Nov 22, 2010)

All 3 the same.
A69189A
If you need the IPL send me a PM.


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## Eccentric (Nov 22, 2010)

Did the XP1000 and XP1000 use the same piston as the 1020/1050/1130G (or can they)?

My XP1020 piston looks like that through the port. Haven't pulled the jug to look further yet.


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## lesorubcheek (Nov 22, 2010)

There's a subtle difference between earlier saws like the 1000/1020 and later ones like the Super 1050. Earlier con rods had fiber bushings on the crank end for "slop" control. Later saws like the Super 1050 used two metal bushings on the piston end of the con rod that sandwiched in between the con rod bearing and the piston boss for the wrist pin. Not sure when this change took place. Anyhoo, just be careful if the con rod setup is the later style so the piston has the proper side clearance control.

Dan


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## Eccentric (Nov 22, 2010)

lesorubcheek said:


> There's a subtle difference between earlier saws like the 1000/1020 and later ones like the Super 1050. Earlier con rods had fiber bushings on the crank end for "slop" control. Later saws like the Super 1050 used two metal bushings on the piston end of the con rod that sandwiched in between the con rod bearing and the piston boss for the wrist pin. Not sure when this change took place. Anyhoo, just be careful if the con rod setup is the later style so the piston has the proper side clearance control.
> 
> Dan



Thanks for the important info Dan! So can we use that later Super 1050 piston on an earlier conrod? If so, what parts would we need? Would we possibly have to clearance the piston's pin bosses a bit? That wouldn't be too hard methinks...


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## lesorubcheek (Nov 22, 2010)

New piston on the old style conrod would work no problem. Think the part number is even superceded in the parts book... need to check for sure. Just leave out the bushings, which you wouldn't have anyway with that setup.

Dan


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## lesorubcheek (Nov 22, 2010)

One more little thing that I mentioned awhile back. Be very careful if you're thinking about buying an aftermarket piston for the 1050. I got one a few years ago, not from the Greek guy, but its hard to believe there's that many aftermarket manufacturers for 1050 pistons. The one I bought did not have a properly machined boss to work with the later style con rod using the bushings. It'll work fine with the old style con rod, but not the later style. Maybe the ones he's selling are different than the one I picked up, but if you get one, and need the later style, it wouldn't hurt to check before just sticking it in.

Dan


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## Eccentric (Nov 22, 2010)

lesorubcheek said:


> New piston on the old style conrod would work no problem. Think the part number is even superceded in the parts book... need to check for sure. Just leave out the bushings, which you wouldn't have anyway with that setup.
> 
> Dan



Thanks Dan. That's great news. The newer pistons are much more common, as the 1050 was built up into the '80s. There *were* a bunch of NOS pistons and cylinders on ebay a number of months ago, but they've *all* mysteriously vanished (even the Greek 'cheapee' pistons) now that I *actualy have* a saw of this series. I *should* have bought a jug and piston and put them on the shelf 'just in case' like the little CAD voice in my head suggested...:censored:



lesorubcheek said:


> One more little thing that I mentioned awhile back. Be very careful if you're thinking about buying an aftermarket piston for the 1050. I got one a few years ago, not from the Greek guy, but its hard to believe there's that many aftermarket manufacturers for 1050 pistons. The one I bought did not have a properly machined boss to work with the later style con rod using the bushings. It'll work fine with the old style con rod, but not the later style. Maybe the ones he's selling are different than the one I picked up, but if you get one, and need the later style, it wouldn't hurt to check before just sticking it in.
> 
> Dan



Interesting. I do remember you talking about your experience with that piston in one of the 'aftermarket piston' threads. Did you ever end up using it.............and if not, would you consider parting with it?


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## Bill G (Nov 22, 2010)

Take the top off and see which carb it has. The last of the 1050 series did not have HL carbs.


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## Eccentric (Nov 22, 2010)

Looks like the carb box has the grommets for the Tillotson HL needles. If it had the SDC it'd have the metal plugs in those holes instead of grommets. Also looks to have the third idle screw and grommet at the front of the carb box. I don't think the SDC equipped 1050's had that adjustment on the intake manifold. Only seen one SDC equipped XP-Series saw in person however. Many HL's though...


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## lesorubcheek (Nov 22, 2010)

Yea, the SDC setup was sold as a kit to fit on any of the Tillotson equipped saws. You can mix and match tons of parts on these saws. Still have the aftermarket piston, but kinda want to hold onto it just in case. Sure the Greek guy or someone else will have 'em up soon enough.

Dan


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## blsnelling (Nov 22, 2010)

It is indeed a Tilly HL. If I don't get too side tracked, I'll have the piston out of it later tonight.


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## Wildman1024 (Nov 22, 2010)

Funny looking 261


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## blsnelling (Nov 22, 2010)

Here's the piston and rod.


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## lesorubcheek (Nov 22, 2010)

Took a look in the IPLs and there is a 1050, not a Super, that shows it uses this setup without the piston end bushings. 

It may very well be that the different con rod and bushing setup was the key difference between the plain 1050 and the Super......

Early Supers look like they could have came with the HLs or the SDCs. No evidence as of yet the cylinders had different port timing. Some Supers had the larger 3/4" clutch, but not all. Please excuse the rambling, but always been curious what made a Super 1050 "super", and this is about the only difference that seems to be constant across the board.

Dan


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## blsnelling (Nov 22, 2010)

I don't have a regular 1050 IPL, only a 1050 Super. I can't read most of the PN on the one I have anyway.

I need PNs for the following parts.

1. Piston
2. Choke Rod
3. Muffler Stud
4. Muffler Cover Screws


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## lesorubcheek (Nov 22, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I don't have a regular 1050 IPL, only a 1050 Super. I can't read most of the PN on the one I have anyway.
> 
> I need PNs for the following parts.
> 
> ...



Piston is A-63071-D, but its superseded to A69189-A, so you can use either one.
Choke rod is A-58354 for the Tillotson carb. The button is separate and is 57289-1.
Muffler studs are 59982-A.
Muffler cover screws are 80837. They're 12-24 x 3/8.

Dan


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## blsnelling (Nov 22, 2010)

lesorubcheek said:


> Piston is A-63071-D, but its superseded to A69189-A, so you can use either one.
> Choke rod is A-58354 for the Tillotson carb. The button is separate and is 57289-1.
> Muffler studs are 59982-A.
> Muffler cover screws are 80837. They're 12-24 x 3/8.
> ...



Thak you very much!


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## blsnelling (Nov 23, 2010)

lesorubcheek said:


> Piston is A-63071-D, but its superseded to A69189-A, so you can use either one.
> Choke rod is A-58354 for the Tillotson carb. The button is separate and is 57289-1.
> Muffler studs are 59982-A.
> Muffler cover screws are 80837. They're 12-24 x 3/8.
> ...



Would anyone happen to have any of these parts? Used is fine. I also need a good clutch cover and muffler guard.


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## MnSam (Nov 23, 2010)

That piston doesn't seem too terribly bad. If nothing else it might make a good back up.


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## blsnelling (Nov 23, 2010)

MnSam said:


> That piston doesn't seem too terribly bad. If nothing else it might make a good back up.



It would surely run fine, as will the rings. But I'd prefere to find a replacement if possible.


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## Eccentric (Nov 23, 2010)

lesorubcheek said:


> Yea, the SDC setup was sold as a kit to fit on any of the Tillotson equipped saws. You can mix and match tons of parts on these saws. Still have the aftermarket piston, but kinda want to hold onto it just in case. Sure the Greek guy or someone else will have 'em up soon enough.
> 
> Dan



I have a friend who bought one of the last Super 1050's new back in 1980-something. Came with an SDC. He still has the saw, but swapped it over to an HL setup not long after he bought it. Says it "was like an entirely different saw" once he made the swap, and had much more power. He has several XP-Series Homelites (and 2000/2100s, and 750s, and...) that he's used almost daily over the last 30+ years, so he'd be an accurate judge of the saw's performance.

I can understand you wanting to hold onto that piston Dan. Hopefuly I'll find one soon...



blsnelling said:


> Here's the piston and rod.



That looks better than I thought it would Brad. I hope mine turns out that well when I pull it. How does the jug look?


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## blsnelling (Nov 23, 2010)

Eccentric said:


> I have a friend who bought one of the last Super 1050's new back in 1980-something. Came with an SDC. He still has the saw, but swapped it over to an HL setup not long after he bought it. Says it "was like an entirely different saw" once he made the swap, and had much more power. He has several XP-Series Homelites (and 2000/2100s, and 750s, and...) that he's used almost daily over the last 30+ years, so he'd be an accurate judge of the saw's performance.
> 
> I can understand you wanting to hold onto that piston Dan. Hopefuly I'll find one soon...
> 
> ...



There's a scratch or two in it, but it's fine. Believe it or not, there was no aluminum transfered in it!


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## Bill G (Nov 23, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It would surely run fine, as will the rings. But I'd prefere to find a replacement if possible.




I believe I have a couple NOS pistons for the 1050. I will look tonight


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## Eccentric (Nov 23, 2010)

Bill G said:


> I believe I have a couple NOS pistons for the 1050. I will look tonight





Put me in line for one of those NOS 1050 pistons behind Brad. While you're looking through your stash Bill, would you happen to have a piston for a Homelite 900D? opcorn:


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## blsnelling (Nov 23, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I don't have a regular 1050 IPL, only a 1050 Super. I can't read most of the PN on the one I have anyway.
> 
> I need PNs for the following parts.
> 
> ...





lesorubcheek said:


> Piston is A-63071-D, but its superseded to A69189-A, so you can use either one.
> Choke rod is A-58354 for the Tillotson carb. The button is separate and is 57289-1.
> Muffler studs are 59982-A.
> Muffler cover screws are 80837. They're 12-24 x 3/8.
> ...





Bill G said:


> I believe I have a couple NOS pistons for the 1050. I will look tonight



Thanks Bill. While you're looking, please see if you have any of these other parts.


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## blsnelling (Nov 24, 2010)

I was able to order a NOS flywheel side seal, but am trying to source one for the PTO side. I've read that they're available from a bearing house. The OEM PN is 56256-B. I called the local bearing house and the closest we could come up with has the following dimensions. 

OD - .750
ID - 1.124
Thickness - .156
Chicago Rawhide PN 7415

If this is not correct, would someone happen to have a good PN?


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## Bill G (Nov 26, 2010)

All I could find was a couple. There may be more here but I cannot find them. It looks like Lee has you covered so you should have it running in no time.


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## blsnelling (Nov 28, 2010)

I got lucky last night. No, not what you're thinking:hmm3grin2orange:  Well, maybe that too, lol. I bought a NOS piston for $50 Lee, I'll be happy to send your good used one back. I *really *appreciate you helping me out, but $50 for a NOS piston was too good to pass up!


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## Eccentric (Nov 28, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I got lucky last night. No, not what you're thinking:hmm3grin2orange:  Well, maybe that too, lol. I bought a NOS piston for $50 Lee, I'll be happy to send your good used one back. I *really *appreciate you helping me out, but $50 for a NOS piston was too good to pass up!



Dammit. I was watching that piston, waiting for 'clearnance' to make an offer. Didn't think he would've taken an offer 50% lower than his asking price. I know that seller from another enthusiast's board (non saw related). Haven't had the chance to ask him why he parted out a Homelite 2000 instead of selling it whole yet (listed a buncha bits from one recently). Anywho....good score Brad.:agree2:

Hey Lee..........would you mind passing on that good used 1050 piston to a fellow FE enthusiast in northern Ca who needs a piston for his XP1020? Is that the piston you mentioned earlier that didn't have the ring locating pin?


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## blsnelling (Nov 28, 2010)

Eccentric said:


> Is that the piston you mentioned earlier that didn't have the ring locating pin?



It is.


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## blsnelling (Nov 29, 2010)

Tonight I got the case and crank back together, crank seals installed, ignition mounted and point gap set, flywheel on, and the ground wire repaired. The NOS piston should be here shortly. Tomorrow I'll order a few bolts from Fastenal. Won't be long now.

The clutch spider I bought on eBay is manufactured wrong. The ID of the spider is threaded, and then 1/2 of it machined out to fit over the crank. They machined the threads out of the wrong half on this spider. I'm going to have to deal with that and find another.

I'm still looking for a muffler cover and muffler stud.


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

I need a little help with the starter pawls and springs. I can usually just figure things out from the IPL, but these old IPL copies are soo poor that you can't even read the numbers. I'm not sure how to orient the spring. Is the pawl pushed by the spring back into the fins, or forward into the crank? A good pic of one assembled would be all that I would need. Thanks.


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I need a little help with the starter pawls and springs. I can usually just figure things out from the IPL, but these old IPL copies are soo poor that you can't even read the numbers. I'm not sure how to orient the spring. Is the pawl pushed by the spring back into the fins, or forward into the crank? A good pic of one assembled would be all that I would need. Thanks.



I think I have it right. It seems to work. I broke the hook off one spring and had to rebend it, so it's not wound around as far as the other.


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

Here's the problem with the clutch. I think I'm going to have Nik machine out the center, and put an insert in it. I'll then weld the insert in place.


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

Here's where I am with the saw as a whole. The NOS piston should be showing up any day.


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## little possum (Nov 30, 2010)

Its kinda ugly...

I like it. haha  Congrats on the saw


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

It's ugly for sure, but will be near 100% mechanically when done. It will look right at home beside my ugle 1130G


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## little possum (Nov 30, 2010)

Looks dont cut wood.

Id rather have beat looking saws, lessens the chance of somebody wanting them more than I do


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

I like a pretty saw, but then I don't want to put it in wood and enjoy it.


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

No piston today So I put a kit in the carb, ground the rails on the bar, and worked over the chain. It's a nice 36" hardnosed bar and full comp Oregon semi-chisel chain. Both are in excellent shape, even if they are ugly


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## little possum (Nov 30, 2010)

Not ugly brad, just not as attractive as a new one


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

A HUGE thanks goes out to an un-named fellow AS enthusiast for finding me another clutch spider and clutch cover. He won't even let me pay for them!!! What wrong with some of you guys Seriously, I'm just thankful for someone to find the parts. Thanks man! You know who you are!


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

little possum said:


> Not ugly brad, just not as attractive as a new one



Ugly is fine It is what it is I have been temped several times to paint it. Even if I were to, I think it'd be smart to get it running first. There's nothing worse than tearing up a nice paint job tearing a saw back apart.


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## Brian VT (Nov 30, 2010)

little possum said:


> Not ugly brad, just not as attractive as a new one


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## blsnelling (Nov 30, 2010)

And here I thought I like you


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## little possum (Nov 30, 2010)

I understand that completely. 
Have you seen my DOT orange/yellow 1050- speaking of ugly. haha


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## Brian VT (Nov 30, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> And here I thought I like you


Just trying to give you a little motivation to break out the paint ! (and then let us all know what brand/color it is  )


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## Farley9n (Dec 1, 2010)

*I May Be A Lot Late*

Not sure what these fit but here's a couple parts I've had stashed. Number on the cylinder is... 58175D while the box has a 69722 on it. Piston is an after market I got around the same time and measures 2.181in. I've been keeping these around thinking they were for a 1050 Homelite but sold my 1050's sometime ago. Love to find another one though......Bob 
















[/IMG]


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## Eccentric (Dec 1, 2010)

Hey Bob,

I believe that is a 1050 cylinder. Acres lists 2.1875" as the measurement for the bore on these saws. I'd love to take both those parts off your hands. I'm sure I'll *need* that jug for my XP1020. *Please* send me a PM with what you want for 'em shipped to 95472. I'd GREATLY appreciate it!!!


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## sefh3 (Dec 1, 2010)

Brad 
Do you have a half wrap handle on that saw? Would you be interested in swaping for a full wrap? I have a full wrap on my XP1020A but the case is broke on the clutch side where the full wrap connects too. So a half wrap would work for mine. PM me if your interested.


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## blsnelling (Dec 1, 2010)

I'm happy I should have a runner later this evening. I just won't be able to cut with it until I get the new spider.


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## Wildman1024 (Dec 1, 2010)

sefh3 said:


> Brad
> Do you have a half wrap handle on that saw? Would you be interested in swaping for a full wrap? I have a full wrap on my XP1020A but the case is broke on the clutch side where the full wrap connects too. So a half wrap would work for mine. PM me if your interested.



I'll trade ya abide 1/2 wrap if interested


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## blsnelling (Dec 1, 2010)

Mine is a 1/2 wrap and that's what I prefer. It's not in the best of shape anyway.


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## blsnelling (Dec 1, 2010)

It's running! It fired right up, idles, and purrs like a kitten. Throttle response is excellent.

Ugly is an understatement for this beast. It's so ugly I think painting it may be a crime, lol.

I didn't get over to Fastenal to pick up my hardware today, so there's a mismatch of hardware holding some of it together. All bolts will be the proper bolts when done.

<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/4-Ne2AHV-Xg?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/4-Ne2AHV-Xg?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>


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## Farley9n (Dec 1, 2010)

*COOL Brad!*

It looks just like it should look! No worry about scratching this one!!!......Bob


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## 1steve (Dec 1, 2010)

Looks aint everything, great job sounds ferocious:chainsawguy: can't wait to see it in wood. Thanks for posting


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## Brian VT (Dec 1, 2010)

That clutch cover looks like it was modded for noodling or milling ? I kinda like it.


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## blsnelling (Dec 2, 2010)

I just found a muffler cover and throttle rod boot. All I think I need now is a choke rod.


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## Wildman1024 (Dec 2, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I just found a muffler cover and throttle rod boot. All I think I need now is a choke rod.



Where did you find your throttle rod boot? Every time I find them they are mushy and i need one on all my saws. I wont pay $15 a piece though from Randy


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## blsnelling (Dec 2, 2010)

Wildman1024 said:


> Where did you find your throttle rod boot? Every time I find them they are mushy and i need one on all my saws. I wont pay $15 a piece though from Randy



I might get banned if I tell you, lol


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## blsnelling (Dec 2, 2010)

I couldn't help myself. A few bolt needed to be replaced with the proper fasteners. Next thing you know, the saw was back apart, lol. I didn't want to disturb the new intake and carb gaskets so just taped off the airbox and cylinder. I got to the store too late so no paint tonight.


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## Wildman1024 (Dec 3, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I might get banned if I tell you, lol



Thanks for the help!


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## blsnelling (Dec 3, 2010)

Wildman1024 said:


> Thanks for the help!



PM me


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## blsnelling (Dec 3, 2010)

In between working on you guy's saws, I'm getting this 1050 painted. I got it primered a little while a go.


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## Eccentric (Dec 3, 2010)

Thanks for the help with the info and the piston Brad! Also, thanks for motivating me to get my XP1020 squared away. Gonna strip and paint that sucker too. It's even uglier than yours was...:hmm3grin2orange:


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## blsnelling (Dec 3, 2010)

Eccentric said:


> It's even uglier than yours was...:hmm3grin2orange:



How could that be possible Had I not had to put a couple NOS parts on this one, I might not have painted it. It'll be cool though having a new looking 1050 though.

BTW, what did the original bar look like on these?


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## blsnelling (Dec 3, 2010)

The first of two coats is on. The next will be much harder, without the contrast of the primer to cover up. I need better lighting for this.


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## Eccentric (Dec 3, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> How could that be possible Had I not had to put a couple NOS parts on this one, I might not have painted it. It'll be cool though having a new looking 1050 though.
> 
> BTW, what did the original bar look like on these?



Well.......

Some prior owner painted the whole dang thing black, over the original red. Much of that black paint is thankfuly worn off, along with much of the red (unfortunately). It's had a hard life, with many 'character marks'. Some yahoo (probaby the rattle can paintmaster of old) also put some ugly, skanky rubber hose all over the full-wrap handlebar and held it on with hose clamps. Cut that crap right off as soon as I got the saw home. The clutch cover had a crack that was 'reinforced' by having a piece of hardware store steel bracket crudely attached with a few screws. It also has a PS handle from what I believe is an ancient Mercury outboard. I'll post some pics before I tear it down...

My saw probably came with a hardnose or RN bar. It currently wears a 30" Cannon RN bar that it had when I bought it a few weeks ago. Yours, being newer probably wore a hardnose or sprocket tip with "HOMELITE" in block letters stenciled on. There's a fellow who sells stencils for the various Homelite OEM paint patterns.


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## blsnelling (Dec 3, 2010)

Eccentric said:


> My saw probably came with a hardnose or RN bar. It currently wears a 30" Cannon RN bar that it had when I bought it a few weeks ago. Yours, being newer probably wore a hardnose or sprocket tip with "HOMELITE" in block letters stenciled on. There's a fellow who sells stencils for the various Homelite OEM paint patterns.



Would that have been on a bare steel colored bar? I have a very nice 36" hardnose General bar. I'll strip it down, decal, and then clear it if that's the right color scheme.


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## Eccentric (Dec 3, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Would that have been on a bare steel colored bar? I have a very nice 36" hardnose General bar. I'll strip it down, decal, and then clear it if that's the right color scheme.



That General would be perfect on your saw. Bare steel would be 'correct' too. IIRC, those Generals had a 'blued' finish similar to a rifle. It wore/rusted away over time. I'd just clean it up and either stencil and clear, or just rub it down with light oil every once in a while...


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## blsnelling (Dec 3, 2010)

Which of these styles is correct?


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## Eccentric (Dec 3, 2010)

By the time that the 1050 was being sold, the top bar would be more 'correct'. I know where that pic came from!:hmm3grin2orange:

The other style would still have been in use (as would your older General) because they of course fit the saws, and were no doubt still hanging on the walls of saw shops once the 1050s started being sold and used. If you decide to get/mount that sprocket nose, I want your General HN bar for the 900D I be getting soon...


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## blsnelling (Dec 5, 2010)

Here's a little taste of what's to come. I can't wait to put this saw back together, all nice and shiny. I'm going to go ahead and replace all the bolts that show. They're only like .10-.15 each, so why not. New decals are ordered. Here's the air filter cover, minus the new label it's waiting on.


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## bowtechmadman (Dec 5, 2010)

Lookin great Brad!


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## blsnelling (Dec 5, 2010)

I think the grey on the bar needs to be a little darker.


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## Eccentric (Dec 5, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I think the grey on the bar needs to be a little darker.



Getting closer Brad. You're going to shame me into rebuilding my XP1020.

As for the bar, I suggest you strip it and either clearcoat or oil it down. That grey is indeed to light. If it was darker, with "HOMELITE" stenciled on it then it'd look fine too.


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## blsnelling (Dec 5, 2010)

Eccentric said:


> Getting closer Brad. You're going to shame me into rebuilding my XP1020.
> 
> As for the bar, I suggest you strip it and either clearcoat or oil it down. That grey is indeed to light. If it was darker, with "HOMELITE" stenciled on it then it'd look fine too.



I did strip it. The steel was kind of dark colored, and the machine marks too pronounced to be lift bar, IMHO. I'll spray it darker and stencil it, if I can get the stencils.


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## blsnelling (Dec 5, 2010)




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## blsnelling (Dec 6, 2010)

WooHoo!!! The clutch cover is very close in color, but the muffler cover is off quite a bit. I'm going to go ahead and paint them both for a perfect match. Then it will be time for decals. I may also replace the handlebar. At a minimum, it will be getting a new covering on the tubing.


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## CM76 (Dec 6, 2010)

Great job Brad - she has cleaned up very nicely, and those decals will complete the project. I really like these model Homelites - solid work horses, and pretty easy to work on.

Top job.

Regards,

Chris.


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## blsnelling (Dec 6, 2010)

You are right, not bad to work on at all.


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## leeha (Dec 6, 2010)

Looks pretty damn good Brad.
Very nice job.
You just need to get the rubber 
spark plug cover.



Lee


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## blsnelling (Dec 6, 2010)

leeha said:


> Looks pretty damn good Brad.
> Very nice job.
> You just need to get the rubber
> spark plug cover.
> ...



Thanks. The cover for the handlebar is ordered. I didn't know there was a plug cover. Guess I need another part, lol.


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## cpr (Dec 6, 2010)

Good work Brad. Those old Homelites sure do spiff up nice. Kinda makes me miss the gussied up C5 I had.


----------



## leeha (Dec 6, 2010)

Look at this pic.
One of these 1130's has the cover.
It's the same cover for your 1050

Lee


----------



## Wildman1024 (Dec 6, 2010)

leeha said:


> Look at this pic.
> One of these 1130's has the cover.
> It's the same cover for your 1050
> 
> Lee



I am missing a few of those myself


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 6, 2010)

leeha said:


> Look at this pic.
> One of these 1130's has the cover.
> It's the same cover for your 1050
> 
> Lee



I'll have to look at my 1130G, but I don't think it has one either.


----------



## leeha (Dec 6, 2010)

All the 1130's and 1050's had them.
The older 1020's, 1100's and 1000's
did not have them. Most users when
had to change a plug through the cover
out in woods.


Lee


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 6, 2010)

leeha said:


> All the 1130's and 1050's had them.
> The older 1020's, 1100's and 1000's
> did not have them. *Most users when
> had to change a plug through the cover
> ...



I can only imagine.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 6, 2010)

Looks like PN 63735-A. None on eBay. I could use two of them.


----------



## Wildman1024 (Dec 6, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Looks like PN 63735-A. None on eBay. I could use two of them.



You better check ebay for stuff like that atleast 10 times a day if you plan on pulling the wool over my eyes!


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 6, 2010)

Wildman1024 said:


> You better check ebay for stuff like that atleast 10 times a day if you plan on pulling the wool over my eyes!



Is that a challenge? Let's see who can get one first BTW, I got my throttle grommet today and it was in nice supple condition. Not gooey at all.


----------



## Wildman1024 (Dec 6, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Is that a challenge? Let's see who can get one first BTW, I got my throttle grommet today and it was in nice supple condition. Not gooey at all.



LOL challenge it is. Good deal on the grommet i'll have to give a call and see if I can get a few


----------



## Mr. Bow Saw (Dec 6, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> WooHoo!!! The clutch cover is very close in color, but the muffler cover is off quite a bit. I'm going to go ahead and paint them both for a perfect match. Then it will be time for decals. I may also replace the handlebar. At a minimum, it will be getting a new covering on the tubing.




Nice job on the saw,it looks great.


----------



## stinkbait (Dec 6, 2010)

You haven't put those decals on yet?


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 7, 2010)

stinkbait said:


> You haven't put those decals on yet?



They're not here yet.


----------



## Bill G (Dec 7, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> Is that a challenge? Let's see who can get one first ..............



I am not sure that is a good challenge. It appears unhealthy for all involved.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 7, 2010)

Bill G said:


> I am not sure that is a good challenge. It appears unhealthy for all involved.



Lol


----------



## stinkbait (Dec 7, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> They're not here yet.



Oh. I saw the pic you posted thinking that they were in your possession.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 9, 2010)

The paint is done on the clutch and muffler covers, and the decals are on. I bought another handbar, since this one isn't real nice on the ends where the bolts go through. I've got new rubber to install on it when it arrives. I also need to pickup the rest of the new bolts.


----------



## leeha (Dec 9, 2010)

Yep, Ya done good.
She's a sweet lookin saw.
Nice finishing touches make
a great restoration.


Lee


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 9, 2010)

leeha said:


> Yep, Ya done good.
> She's a sweet lookin saw.
> Nice finishing touches make
> a great restoration.
> ...



Thanks. And to think I honestly wasn't even going to paint it, lol.


----------



## stinkbait (Dec 10, 2010)

That turned out great Brad. Where do u find the time to repair all these saws?


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 10, 2010)

stinkbait said:


> That turned out great Brad. Where do u find the time to repair all these saws?



Ask FATGUY and Andyshine77


----------



## FATGUY (Dec 10, 2010)

suffice it to say if you haven't been around him much, you wouldn't understand. The man's 2-stroking in and out of the cut....


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 10, 2010)

FATGUY said:


> suffice it to say if you haven't been around him much, you wouldn't understand. *The man's 2-stroking in and out of the cut*....



No that made me laugh out loud We laugh about it everytime they come over.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 10, 2010)

I got this handle in the mail today. It's off a C-91. Am I correct that the 1050 should *not *have this green grip? I have replacement black rubber piece to put on it, but wanted to verify first.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 10, 2010)

The deed is done. This is the HD heat shrink tubing I've posted about before. It's super thick, rubbery, and has adhesive on the inside that activates with heat. There's not a hint of a wrinkle, even on the inside of the 90° curves. Great stuff.


----------



## stinkbait (Dec 10, 2010)

I make a motion for a video. Is there a second?


----------



## watsonr (Dec 10, 2010)

Second, but it needs a big roller nosed bar with the homelite logo on it.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 10, 2010)

stinkbait said:


> I make a motion for a video. Is there a second?



Are you really going to do that to me??? That's why one side of me doesn't want to paint these old saws. I end up not wanting to put them in wood. I probably will though


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 10, 2010)

watsonr said:


> Second, but it needs a big roller nosed bar with the homelite logo on it.



I'm working on that


----------



## little possum (Dec 11, 2010)

Period correct 1050 I think. Its a little newer than yours. Wish it had the decals like yours instead of the stickers. But the internals and that fresh .404 Stihl chain is what cuts the wood.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

I've noticed that there are about 3 different styles of these saws. There those like mine that have the black circles with white and red decals. Then there are those with red insert and decals like mine only black and white decals. Then there are those like yours. Also, mine has no provisions for the hand guard.


----------



## Brian VT (Dec 11, 2010)

Mine has the black "arrowhead" stickers but it has the hand guard and SDC carb. like possum's.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

Who was it that asked about my 1/2 wrap bar?


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

I realized I'm still missing the throttle lock for this saw. I can make out that I need items 26-28, but can't make out the PNs on my IPL. Anyone have one thay can read? It looks like I need the pin, spring, and retaining ring.


----------



## Eccentric (Dec 11, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I realized I'm still missing the throttle lock for this saw. I can make out that I need items 26-28, but can't make out the PNs on my IPL. Anyone have one thay can read? It looks like I need the pin, spring, and retaining ring.



I could use a few sets of those parts as well. Seen them on feebay a few times, but for too much money. My XP1020 IPL is hard to read too. Got these numbers from my Super 1050 Auto IPL. That one's easy to read...


Pin------------58404
Spring---------58405
Retaining Ring--58409


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

Eccentric said:


> I could use a few sets of those parts as well. Seen them on feebay a few times, but for too much money. My XP1020 IPL is hard to read too. Got these numbers from my Super 1050 Auto IPL. That one's easy to read...
> 
> 
> Pin------------58404
> ...



Thanks!


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

I just won this bar for the 1050. I've got a weakness for roller nose bars. So should it be left bare steel, decaled, or what?


----------



## watsonr (Dec 11, 2010)

The guy selling it said it fit the 750, you need to send it to me, especially since you were bidding against me. Not sure if it will fit Brad, that's the same mount as the XL-12 or XL-925.

I may be wrong, but it is a nice bar!

Randy


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

watsonr said:


> The guy selling it said it fit the 750, you need to send it to me, especially since you were bidding against me. Not sure if it will fit Brad, that's the same mount as the XL-12 or XL-925.
> 
> I may be wrong, but it is a nice bar!
> 
> Randy



What?! Please edumacate me. Will this bar not fit me 1050, even if I have to mod it a bit?


----------



## watsonr (Dec 11, 2010)

I believe the other bar he was selling was for the 1050 and that one fits a 750. I was bidding on both, but got out bid on both, just didn't think they were worth more than $75 each. I talked to him earlier in the day, the seller is about 1 hour from my hotel and told me he took it from a Homelite 750, which if I'm not mistaken is the mount that fits the Super XL/XL-12 series saws. That is a nice bar!

If you sell it, I'll give you the price you paid, it would look good on my 750.

Randy


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

watsonr said:


> I believe the other bar he was selling was for the 1050 and that one fits a 750. I was bidding on both, but got out bid on both, just didn't think they were worth more than $75 each. I talked to him earlier in the day, the seller is about 1 hour from my hotel and told me he took it from a Homelite 750, which if I'm not mistaken is the mount that fits the Super XL/XL-12 series saws. That is a nice bar!
> 
> If you sell it, I'll give you the price you paid, it would look good on my 750.
> 
> Randy



Well that stinks. I would have bought the other had I known that. Shame on me for not doing my homework. Can this bar not be modified to work on my 1050? The slot is the same size.


----------



## watsonr (Dec 11, 2010)

I'm not sure, just saying what he told me. They both take a 9.5mm slot but the one on my 1050 looks different, the end of the slot is open and the 750's is closed. The oil holes I'm not sure about either, if I had access to a printer I would print out the bar pattern and compare them.

Randy


----------



## Eccentric (Dec 11, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I just won this bar for the 1050. I've got a weakness for roller nose bars. So should it be left bare steel, decaled, or what?





watsonr said:


> The guy selling it said it fit the 750, you need to send it to me, especially since you were bidding against me. Not sure if it will fit Brad, that's the same mount as the XL-12 or XL-925.
> 
> I may be wrong, but it is a nice bar!
> 
> Randy





blsnelling said:


> What?! Please edumacate me. Will this bar not fit me 1050, even if I have to mod it a bit?





watsonr said:


> I believe the other bar he was selling was for the 1050 and that one fits a 750. I was bidding on both, but got out bid on both, just didn't think they were worth more than $75 each. I talked to him earlier in the day, the seller is about 1 hour from my hotel and told me he took it from a Homelite 750, which if I'm not mistaken is the mount that fits the Super XL/XL-12 series saws. That is a nice bar!
> 
> If you sell it, I'll give you the price you paid, it would look good on my 750.
> 
> Randy





blsnelling said:


> Well that stinks. I would have bought the other had I known that. Shame on me for not doing my homework. Can this bar not be modified to work on my 1050? The slot is the same size.



I was watching that bar too. The seller doesn't know that much about old saw bar mounts. If he actualy took it off of a 750 though.............then it is the XL mount pattern and most likely won't work with a C/XP series saw. The bar slot is indeed the same width. The adjuster holes are a bit different, but things can be made to work there (with either modifications to the adjuster nut or the bar). The one real issue I've found with trying to run XL pattern bars on C/XP series saws is that the C/XP oiler hole location is not right for those bars, and there's often not enough 'meat' on that section of the bar to keep saw's oiler slot covered (because the XP bars have a larger radius in that area). You have to fit the bar on the saw and *carefuly* look things over to see if it's gonna work. Check for issues with the bar in different possitions (chain adjustment locations). It may be fine with the bar in one spot........but not in others. You wouldn't wanna fry the chain and bar because the oiler hole got uncovered. You might be able to make it work with a custom or modified bar plate. Those bars should be in 'natural' finish to look right BTW. I have both 'open' and 'closed' slot bars for both mount patterns. That's not an issue. The oiler thing can be though. Try to see if it'll work before you make a decission...

Sorry Brad.


----------



## Wildman1024 (Dec 11, 2010)

It will fit. You may or may not have to adjust the oil hole "Slightly". If it is really a D196 mount (925/650/750 saws) then the tail will be a little smaller to. I dont see it as being an issue though


----------



## watsonr (Dec 11, 2010)

Offer still stands, you beat me by $1.00. I wanted both bars, one for each saw.

How much is a roller bar really worth?

Randy


----------



## Eccentric (Dec 11, 2010)

Wildman1024 said:


> It will fit. You may or may not have to adjust the oil hole "Slightly". If it is really a D196 mount (925/650/750 saws) then the tail will be a little smaller to. I dont see it as being an issue though



It really is one of those things where you have to try the individual bar on the saw...............sliding it back and forth on the studs through the whole adjustment length to see if the oiler hole and slot line up, without the slot being uncovered. When I've tried using XL mount bars on my C5's I was not happy with the oiler hole situation...


----------



## Wildman1024 (Dec 11, 2010)

Eccentric said:


> It really is one of those things where you have to try the individual bar on the saw...............sliding it back and forth on the studs through the whole adjustment length to see if the oiler hole and slot line up, without the slot being uncovered. When I've tried using XL mount bars on my C5's I was not happy with the oiler hole situation...



I'm running a husky D009 mount on my 922. The fit the studs perfect but most of the time you gotta adjust the oiler hole. I just got lucky and the 922 needs no adjustments. It really does depend on the saw though


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

watsonr said:


> Offer still stands, you beat me by $1.00. I wanted both bars, one for each saw.
> 
> How much is a roller bar really worth?
> 
> Randy



Thanks for the info guys. My max bid was $86. I'll check it out good when it gets here.


----------



## hoss (Dec 11, 2010)

I have a bunch of 750 mount bars and some of the much more rare roller/sprocket nose bars for the big xp-3100 series saws and although the oiler and even adjuster holes can be modded or moved there is just not enough meat (height) on the tail of the bar. What happens and is even worse when you use the bar plates is that the body of the saw and clutch cover will bind against the chain. I'm sure some of you guys have seen some of the saws in this series with a channel worn to the bar mounting section of the saw body from someone being determined to run a D196 or similar sized bar on these saws. It may run, but the reason to have a roller or sprocket nose bars instead of the much easier to find hardnose bars is to free up horsepower so any bind on the chain would be working against that. I know a HP Freak like you will appreciate this. An easy way around this (it won't be a roller nose though) is to run a large mount Stihl sprocket nose bar. They are big enough at the tail, can be had from any stihl dealer and only need a small adapter to fit. There are some good threads with some very good ideas on adapters for this application. Good luck and nice job on the saw.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 11, 2010)

hoss said:


> I have a bunch of 750 mount bars and some of the much more rare roller/sprocket nose bars for the big xp-3100 series saws and although the oiler and even adjuster holes can be modded or moved there is just not enough meat (height) on the tail of the bar. What happens and is even worse when you use the bar plates is that the body of the saw and clutch cover will bind against the chain. I'm sure some of you guys have seen some of the saws in this series with a channel worn to the bar mounting section of the saw body from someone being determined to run a D196 or similar sized bar on these saws. It may run, but the reason to have a roller or sprocket nose bars instead of the much easier to find hardnose bars is to free up horsepower so any bind on the chain would be working against that. I know a HP Freak like you will appreciate this. An easy way around this (it won't be a roller nose though) is to run a large mount Stihl sprocket nose bar. They are big enough at the tail, can be had from any stihl dealer and only need a small adapter to fit. There are some good threads with some very good ideas on adapters for this application. Good luck and nice job on the saw.



Good info Hoss. Thanks! I'll have to check that out. I actually have a 36" Cannon roller nose in the large Stihl mount.


----------



## hoss (Dec 11, 2010)

Also some of the larger Remington roller nose bars are large enough at the tail. I recently recieved a nice Homelite 2000 that had a larger Remington roller nose bar on it and it works great with no binding.


----------



## Teddy.Scout (Dec 11, 2010)

*Nice job on the saw Brad!
Looks sharp!!!!*

*And good info lersorubcheek and hoss!!!!!!!!!*



lesorubcheek said:


> There's a subtle difference between earlier saws like the 1000/1020 and later ones like the Super 1050. Earlier con rods had fiber bushings on the crank end for "slop" control. Later saws like the Super 1050 used two metal bushings on the piston end of the con rod that sandwiched in between the con rod bearing and the piston boss for the wrist pin. Not sure when this change took place. Anyhoo, just be careful if the con rod setup is the later style so the piston has the proper side clearance control.
> 
> Dan





hoss said:


> I have a bunch of 750 mount bars and some of the much more rare roller/sprocket nose bars for the big xp-3100 series saws and although the oiler and even adjuster holes can be modded or moved there is just not enough meat (height) on the tail of the bar. What happens and is even worse when you use the bar plates is that the body of the saw and clutch cover will bind against the chain. I'm sure some of you guys have seen some of the saws in this series with a channel worn to the bar mounting section of the saw body from someone being determined to run a D196 or similar sized bar on these saws. It may run, but the reason to have a roller or sprocket nose bars instead of the much easier to find hardnose bars is to free up horsepower so any bind on the chain would be working against that. I know a HP Freak like you will appreciate this. An easy way around this (it won't be a roller nose though) is to run a large mount Stihl sprocket nose bar. They are big enough at the tail, can be had from any stihl dealer and only need a small adapter to fit. There are some good threads with some very good ideas on adapters for this application. Good luck and nice job on the saw.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 12, 2010)

I stepped out into the cold garage to do a little bar sleuthing. This 1050 came with two bars on is a 32" and the other a 60". Both are hard nosed with .404 chain. Both appear to have seen little or no use. The 60" is a little fatter at the tale than the 32". Can someone confirm which bar mounts these are?


Here is the 60".

















Here is the 32".












This is the 32" bar laid on top of the 60" bar.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 12, 2010)

Here is a 36" Oregon roller nose in large Stihl mount. I'm not sure about how compatible this is.

















Here it is on top of the 60" bar.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 12, 2010)

I also checked out the bar I have on my 1130G. Turns out it's a XL mount 32" roller nose. I had forgotten about the deal with this bar. It was binding between the rail guides. With a little tweaking of the guides, I was able to make it work.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 12, 2010)

sefh3 said:


> Brad
> Do you have a half wrap handle on that saw? Would you be interested in swaping for a full wrap? I have a full wrap on my XP1020A but the case is broke on the clutch side where the full wrap connects too. So a half wrap would work for mine. PM me if your interested.



Hey Scott, are you still interested in this handlebar? It's yours if you can use it. It's not in perfect condition, but it is serviceable.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 21, 2010)

Now this is what I'm talkin' about!!!











There was dirt in the groove, but the bar appears virtually unused. I cleane off the light surface rust with muratic acid, then put a fresh brushed finish on it with a belt sander. The picture don't really show it, but the bar is almost shiny new looking. The chain clears the guide plates after just a little tweeking. They barely touched to begin with.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 21, 2010)

What do you think about stenciling this bar with red block letters spelling out HOMELITE, like OEM bars of this vintage? I know this roller nose wouldn't have that, but I think it would still look cool.


----------



## Mr. Bow Saw (Dec 21, 2010)

These are all stenciled.


----------



## leeha (Dec 21, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> What do you think about stenciling this bar with red block letters spelling out HOMELITE, like OEM bars of this vintage? I know this roller nose wouldn't have that, but I think it would still look cool.



The saw looks great Brad.
Me personally, I would get the old Oregon
stencile from sugar creek supply. I think
it would look nice.


Lee


----------



## Bill G (Dec 22, 2010)

I love the old Roll-O-tronic bars


----------



## bowtechmadman (Dec 22, 2010)

Wow Brad! Simply amazing work on that 1050.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 22, 2010)

Bill G said:


> I love the old Roll-O-tronic bars



I've got a weakness for them myself. I have 36"er on my 1130G and a 36" large Sthil mount as well. I've also got a 21" in Poulan mount and a 16" in small Stihl.


----------



## wigglesworth (Dec 22, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> ...... and a 16" in small Stihl.



I didnt know they made roller noses in that mount....

U still have that remington?


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 22, 2010)

wigglesworth said:


> I didnt know they made roller noses in that mount....
> 
> U still have that remington?



They don't, but you do Yes I do.


----------



## wigglesworth (Dec 22, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> They don't, but you do Yes I do.



I picked up another nice Remington roller nose the other day. It's a 20"....for now.


----------



## ray benson (Dec 22, 2010)

About 5 years ago sent Chainbar a roller nose tip and a hardnose bar.


----------



## wigglesworth (Dec 22, 2010)

ray benson said:


> About 5 years ago sent Chainbar a roller nose tip and a hardnose bar.



That looks sweet.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 22, 2010)

ray benson said:


> About 5 years ago sent Chainbar a roller nose tip and a hardnose bar.



Excellent! That's the same stencil I bought for this bar! I like it. It's not here yet though. I ordered it along with new decals for my Poulan 5200.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 24, 2010)

Here she is in wood. There's something wrong with the carb. It doesn't take well to L needle adjustment, and has throttle response issues. I've also got the idle air bleed screw backed way out and still not getting the idle RPMs up like I want. So it wasn't the VP fuel. I've got the carb back in the ultrasonic cleaner again. It runs great in the wood though.


<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/3k3nnajhROM?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/3k3nnajhROM?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>


----------



## Wildman1024 (Dec 24, 2010)

She looks good but dog that bit*h in and LET HER EAT!!!!


----------



## Brian VT (Dec 24, 2010)

Wildman1024 said:


> ...dog that bit*h in and LET HER EAT!!!!


I was thinking the same thing. Is it a new top end ? Maybe he's breaking it in easy ?
My eardrums hurt just watching the vid. LOL


----------



## Wildman1024 (Dec 24, 2010)

Brian VT said:


> I was thinking the same thing. Is it a new top end ? Maybe he's breaking it in easy ?
> My eardrums hurt just watching the vid. LOL



As they say...Drive it like you stole it. I run my #### hard so I break my #### in even harder!


----------



## cbfarmall (Dec 24, 2010)

ray benson said:


> About 5 years ago sent Chainbar a roller nose tip and a hardnose bar.



Dang Ray, I was pondering doing just that with my 60" hardnose Homey bar. After seeing yours, I think I just may have to.

Chris B.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 24, 2010)

Brian VT said:


> I was thinking the same thing. Is it a new top end ? Maybe he's breaking it in easy ?
> My eardrums hurt just watching the vid. LOL



It has a brand new piston, and this was the first time it had been in wood.


----------



## Brian VT (Dec 24, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> It has a brand new piston, and this was the first time it had been in wood.


I figured as much. Can't wait to see the vid. with those .404 chips piling up around your knees. 
That's what I love most about running mine. That reminds me...I gotta take a touch more off my rakers.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 24, 2010)

Well, I don't believe it's the carb. It spent a long time in the ultrasonic cleaner, and I even pulled the welch plug this time. It's spotless. But it's still doing the same thing. I think it may be the reeds. Only one reed seals perfectly tight, two are very close to sealed, and one just flat out needs replaced. It's only right off idle that it has an issue. Everywhere else it runs perfectly. Would leaking reeds cause this issue?


<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1aRxJ_ZQY_U?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1aRxJ_ZQY_U?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>


----------



## Brian VT (Dec 24, 2010)

blsnelling said:


> I think it may be the reeds. Only one reed seals perfectly tight, two are very close to sealed, and one just flat out needs replaced.


Flipping them over won't help ?


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 24, 2010)

Brian VT said:


> Flipping them over won't help ?



The one that is bad got warped by heat. The little screws were loctited in, and one screw on that one reed wouldn't break loose, so I put heat to it. The reed warped. Otherwise, I was going to flip it over as I did the others.


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 24, 2010)

The only other thing I can think of is the accellerator pump piston in the carb. Perhaps it's not sealing and giving that shot of fuel it needs. I'm still thinking it's that reed though. I'm probably not getting good impulse at idle since the base can't build the proper pressure with that leaking reed. That would also explain the L not tuning quite right.


<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1aRxJ_ZQY_U?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1aRxJ_ZQY_U?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>


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## stinkbait (Dec 24, 2010)

Looks like it's oiling good. How about opening up that reed cage more that stock and cutting some larger ones from carbon fiber. You can fax boyesen tracings and measurements and they will build you some custom reeds for your application. I was thinking about doing that for my mac 125.


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## blsnelling (Dec 24, 2010)

Wow, what a frustrating day! I swapped the reed cage and carb from my 1130G, no dice. I then swapped the ignition, no dice. I noticed that I could back the L screw all the way out and it wouldn't get too rich. If I pulled the choke out part way, throttle response was good, so I knew it was lean. So now I was thinking air leak. All of this on a saw I didn't want to have to turn another screw on after the paint job. I ended up having to pull the right case half off, as it was leaking at that gasket. The flywheel side crank seal was also leaking, between the metal OD of the seal and the case. I put the case back together using sealant on both sides of the gasket, and put green Loctite on the crank seal to case joint. I'll see tomorrow if it'll holds vacuum. What a mess!


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## stinkbait (Dec 24, 2010)

It's good that you found the problem. I hope that you don't scuff that nice paint job while reassembling it.


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## blsnelling (Dec 24, 2010)

stinkbait said:


> It's good that you found the problem. I hope that you don't scuff that nice paint job while reassembling it.



Too late for that I put a couple chips in it when I had it out cutting wood. The rope grabbed and flipped the saw on it's side. Then on the way home it fell on it's side in the bed and the 5200 messed up the filter cover. I was thoroughly disgusted to say the least. It'll touch up ok, but still sickening. That's the catch 22 with repainting these oldies, and why they often never see wood again when I do.


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## blsnelling (Dec 25, 2010)

I finally got the 1050 running like a top, but it kicked my butt. I spent HOURS on that thing today and had it apart a hundred times. Now to collect a few small parts to put the 1130G back together, lol.


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## Eccentric (Dec 25, 2010)

stinkbait said:


> Looks like it's oiling good. How about opening up that reed cage more that stock and cutting some larger ones from carbon fiber. You can fax boyesen tracings and measurements and they will build you some custom reeds for your application. I was thinking about doing that for my mac 125.



That's a damn good idea SB. If you do that with your Macs, let us know in the Mac thread. I know I've got four saws that I'd swap them into right now....................and will probably have more by the time some Boysens would be available...........



blsnelling said:


> Wow, what a frustrating day! I swapped the reed cage and carb from my 1130G, no dice. I then swapped the ignition, no dice. I noticed that I could back the L screw all the way out and it wouldn't get too rich. If I pulled the choke out part way, throttle response was good, so I knew it was lean. So now I was thinking air leak. All of this on a saw I didn't want to have to turn another screw on after the paint job. I ended up having to pull the right case half off, as it was leaking at that gasket. The flywheel side crank seal was also leaking, between the metal OD of the seal and the case. I put the case back together using sealant on both sides of the gasket, and put green Loctite on the crank seal to case joint. I'll see tomorrow if it'll holds vacuum. What a mess!





blsnelling said:


> I finally got the 1050 running like a top, but it kicked my butt. I spent HOURS on that thing today and had it apart a hundred times. Now to collect a few small parts to put the 1130G back together, lol.



Glad to hear you got 'er running right. I was going to suggest you look at the idle bypass hose for leaks and such. Hope you're not using tygon type line for it. The base of the jug gets too hot for that kind of line, just like an impulse line. Automotive vacuum hose is what I'd use if I had a saw that had that setup. My older XP1020 doesn't....


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