# free hand ripping with a chainsaw?



## Bob_E (Jul 10, 2013)

I've been thinking about getting a chainsaw for ripping dry hardwood lumber. Maybe 1-12" thick x 1-3' length. Would this be do-able or is it a bad idea? Any pointers or criticism? 
While looking around online for a ripping chain I noticed most manufacturers only recommend ripping chain for chainsaw mills and make a point to state not for hand held saws. Is there safety/kickback issue with ripping chain?


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## half_full (Jul 10, 2013)

Hi Bob, welcome. I can't really answer your question as far as a safety issue but there was a video I recall seeing here where a Filipino crew of 2 were ripping with an 090 freehand. And the safety gear consisted of flip-flops and shorts. Did a damn fine job though.


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## redoakneck (Jul 10, 2013)

Not a kick back issue with ripping chain. It can be done. If you want he dimensions to be perfect a mill is handy, if you just want to rough cut some benches/ tables freehand may be fine.

If you want an all purpose chain you can try stihl RM. I have milled with it and it works ok, not as smooth as ripping chain.


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## Philip Wheelock (Jul 10, 2013)

half_full said:


> Hi Bob, welcome. I can't really answer your question as far as a safety issue but there was a video I recall seeing here where a Filipino crew of 2 were ripping with an 090 freehand. And the safety gear consisted of flip-flops and shorts. Did a damn fine job though.



Check it out here.


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## harrygrey382 (Jul 10, 2013)

yeah of course you can do it - the limitations are only your hand/eye coordination 

If you want a better finish use ripping chain or normal chain and grind the cutters to 10 rather than 30 degrees (this is now ripping chain). Be best to have a bigger cc saw than you would cross cutting the same piece of wood


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## Stihl n Wood (Jul 10, 2013)

I gotta give that barefoot crazy guy props!! Yes its nuts with no safety gear or boots for that matter. But he's talented and has a really good eye. I Freehand slabs for benches and such and after some belt sanding, there not to bad. But like said above, if you want good cuts a Alaskan mill is the way to go!!! But wear saftey gear!! Lucky that guys got any toes at all!!!


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## ThistleIA (Jul 10, 2013)

For shorter cuts (2 to 4 ft long) when wanting blocks,slabs etc for woodturning/bowl blanks and/or the occasional bench for my yard or parents 10 acres of woodland - I frequently cut them freehand instead of setting up the Alaskan Mill.Years of practice,razor sharp skip tooth chains,steady hands make all the difference.

Sometimes I have a line to follow from a Sharpie,paint marker,straightedge or chalk line,usually its without though.Its not hard to stay within 1/8" or 1/4" of being square,even with just "eyeballing" it.All the blocks are either planed flat or turned on the lathe at a later date,so they dont need to be perfect.

Straighter grain is almost effortless,any crotches,knots or irregular grain can ''pull'' the teeth away i.e. they follow line of least resistance & its harder to keep cuts truer in wood like that sometimes.

Anyone here familiar with woodturning knows about the 'woodturner's sway''- you keep feet planted in same spot,but move your upper body,arms etc.That way your cut stays the same,you move your feet,the saw will veer a little & be off your mark.Easier to show someone than explain it here.


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## ThistleIA (Jul 10, 2013)

A few more taken in past couple years or so...When I'm not too tired after working all day,if its not too hot/cold or a storm outside- I'll fire up one of the big Huskys to cut a few more slabs/blocks.All local hardwoods,occasionally I get some nice White Pine or Eastern Red Cedar.I watch CL free listings for wood,do the occasional paid tree removal in spare time,plus a small local tree service will bring me a load for free when he has stuff that interests me.....Keep most of them for future use,occasionally sell some locally on CL & even have sold/shipped a couple on Ebay.Not a real money-maker,but is good for a few bucks put aside for extra beer money or towards new chains/other supplies.:cool2:


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## Bob_E (Jul 11, 2013)

Thanks :msp_thumbup:


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## Dave Boyt (Jul 12, 2013)

redoakneck said:


> Not a kick back issue with ripping chain. It can be done. If you want he dimensions to be perfect a mill is handy, if you just want to rough cut some benches/ tables freehand may be fine.



True, but you don't want to leave the ripping chain on the saw when you are felling trees or cutting firewood. It is hard to control and very prone to kicking back. Clearly, milling logs barefoot results in straighter lumber. Biggest danger is that you'll decide you need a chain saw mill, then you'll need more logs.


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## ShaneLogs (Jul 12, 2013)

That guy is really good at milling free hand but he is crazy! Needs PPE!


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## BobL (Jul 12, 2013)

Dave Boyt said:


> True, but you don't want to leave the ripping chain on the saw when you are felling trees or cutting firewood. It is hard to control and very prone to kicking back.



While I agree that it is better to use proper cross cutting chain I'm not convinced that either control or kickback are significant issues on ripping chain.

My reckoning why milling chain should preferably not be used for bucking is that it forms a slightly narrower kerf because the reduced top plate filing angles don't make the cutters to dive sideways as much. Bucking needs a slightly bigger kerf because cross grain cutting produces more torn wood fibres dangling inside the cut allowing less room for movement and potentially jamming the B&C inside the kerf. My experience is that this is really only and issue when the cutters are worn down and thus narrower compared to when they are new. If the chain is new or not substantially worn I don't hesitate to use ripping chain to do a little cross cutting.


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