# Proper Splitting Swing



## Islander (Oct 23, 2009)

I've been splitting wood by hand since I was a kid. I like the fast speed and good exercise of doing by hand. Most of my rounds are under 20" so it works for me...

I've always swung using the "behind the back" stroke...like you see in those old railroad films, pounding spikes in. I guess I never thought there was any other way...

This summer while camping at a state park, I saw a young park employee (Youth Conservation Corps) splitting with what I would call the "rise and fall" swing, keeping the maul in front of him the whole swing.

My first thought was...must be a city kid. Then I saw the size pile he was making, and the relative ease he was swinging with. Seemed like it worked for him. I wondered if the YCC trained him this way?

I tried his way a few times, but I've got a lot of "muscle memory" for the behind the back method, so I've got a habit to break. I did get a few productive swings doing it that way, but seemed like less splitting force. Perhaps I need more practice...

So my question: What's the "correct" way to swing a splitting maul?


----------



## wigglesworth (Oct 23, 2009)

The "rise and fall" as you call it is much easier on your body. Trust me on that one. I used to think I was superman and give the maul the old "John Henry" swing, and be wore out in no time.


----------



## Chris Crouse (Oct 23, 2009)

I think if you were using a monster maul then you would have to use the rise and fall unless you are a really big dude. With a 6 or 8 lbs maul I don't see the rise and fall being effective on anything but bone dry pine and other easy splitting stuff.


----------



## Wood Doctor (Oct 23, 2009)

*I Use Both*

Round housing will probably give you a harder impact on the billet. However, it will take its toll on your back and shoulders. I usually round house the 8-lb splitting maul, but whenever I use the 10-lb sledge on a wedge, I go straight up and straight down ("rise and fall"). Rise and fall will usually give you more accuracy as well.

Take a look:


> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/soOJDRlRUQM&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/soOJDRlRUQM&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


Remember, these guys on U-Tube are generally not splitting elm, knotty pine, cottonwood, locust, or apple. *Second, the further the maul drops, the more impact it will have.* The man in the video above is using a log underneath that is too long. I usually find a much shorter and wider resting log. In fact, a flat piece of slabwood is ideal for a rest.


----------



## taylor6400 (Oct 23, 2009)

Im a roundhouser. Just the way i started, and i like swinging the thing as hard as i can, and the roundhouse approach gets inertia on your side...im young and like the workout!


----------



## StihlyinEly (Oct 23, 2009)

When I was in my 20s, I once watched an old Indian guy working with a standard sized ax and 30-inch rounds of hardwood. He never went for the center split. His first split was to knock off a fairly flat piece along the edge, and then work his way through the round from one side to the other, using the edges he created and taking advantage of the natural fault lines in the wood, with each piece the appropriate size for either the cookstove or woodstove. I commented on this when he was taking a break. He said he'd been splitting wood his whole life with nothing but an ax. 

He got this twinkle in his eye and made a comment about white men always taking the hard way. I had to laugh, because he was describing me.

Since then, while I have a maul and wedges, I rarely use them. Mostly I'm using a log splitter these days, but when I do pick up the ax I work those rounds just like he taught me.

As for the swing, I compromise. With the ax, I take it back over my head but not too far back, with left hand on the end of the ax handle and right hand up the shaft. Then as I come down toward the wood the right hand slips down the handle to meet the left hand. Pretty much like the guy in the video. Taking off stove-sized pieces, I'm not able to be accurate enough with a full roundhouse swing, either. If I was center splitting it'd be a different matter.


----------



## Islander (Oct 23, 2009)

*Sounds like it depends...*

Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like I'm not alone in being confused about my swinging identity!

I'll work on my rise and fall swing, as it sounds like that's a method lots of people use. Still not convinced it will work with the notty Ash and Elm I've got, but we'll see. Seems like some of those logs need everything I've got to give...and the round-house method gives the brute-ist of brute force.

Also thanks for the "start at the edge" comment...been doing that right along...only way to split my bigger stuff, and seems a smarter way to split.

I've switched to the True Temper 4lb maul (got mine at Lowes) this year, and that does seem easier on the shoulders with similar performance to my 8lb old-fashioned maul. 

I'm pretty convinced that the "speed means more than mass" theory is true, at least in my 8 to 4 lb comparison.

Also have a question about Fiskar's mauls...wondering if this theory really extends down to their 2.25 lb maul. I'm inclined to try the 4.25lb maul, but 2.25lb sounds pretty light...anyone compared the two?

http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/s...ategoryId=10277&productId=10528&page=products

http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/s...ategoryId=10277&productId=10529&page=products


----------



## thombat4 (Oct 23, 2009)

Islander said:


> Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like I'm not alone in being confused about my swinging identity!
> 
> I'll work on my rise and fall swing, as it sounds like that's a method lots of people use. Still not convinced it will work with the notty Ash and Elm I've got, but we'll see. Seems like some of those logs need everything I've got to give...and the round-house method gives the brute-ist of brute force.
> 
> ...




There's a big thread somewhere on here all about the Fiskars 4.5lb splitter. Hopefully someone will link it here for you. Lot's of good info from those of us that love it and those that don't as well.


----------



## laynes69 (Oct 23, 2009)

I use the roundhouse, but I don't put everything I have into it. If its straight grain, I will let it basically fall and it will split. When I split, I look for any cracks in the wood, and try to hit on those. I basically look for those before splitting. On those hard to split pieces, when I come down, right before it hitting I flick my wrists down and it splits better. On large rounds, I work on the sides, and rotate till I'm in the center. I split almost everything by hand, cord after cord. On those ones with the crotches, I will use a maul and a splitting wedge to drive through them. A 6# maul works better for me than an 8#. Speed and accuracy win everytime. I take my time and breath right so I can split for a few hours at a time. Keeps me in shape.


----------



## sesmith (Oct 23, 2009)

Roundhouse...even with my monster maul. I'm not young, and I'm not big either. The real trick is being able to hit the same place twice consistently, read the wood, and only use enough force to get the job done. I've split a lot of 24" beech over the last several years like this, although this year is the 1st I broke down and bought a splitter for my tractor. Did 5 or 6 full cords in a weekend this year...much quicker.


----------



## coog (Oct 23, 2009)

Rise and drop for me.The power is in the wrists, with the snap at impact doing the most damage.For the extra-hard pieces the maul goes higher, but not farther back.This is far less taxing than the old roundhouse, and you maintain greater control.I have split wood with enough young bucks to know that technique trumps youth.


----------



## makomakoman (Oct 23, 2009)

I use both as well. Only on the tough ones will I wind up.

This is with my 8 lb maul. I don't like my 6lb maul.


----------



## Wood Doctor (Oct 23, 2009)

makomakoman said:


> I use both as well. Only on the tough ones will I wind up. This is with my 8lb maul. I don't like my 6-lb maul.


Rarely do I roundhouse swing anymore. Mass is sometimes more important then speed. Monster maul users do not roundhouse at all. But, they sure split a lot of wood with that beast. Take a look at this:


> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/mA2cPHsdshQ&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/mA2cPHsdshQ&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


Psssttt... Solid oak is easy to split compared to elm, knotty pine, and several other wood species.


----------



## frenchy85 (Oct 23, 2009)

StihlyinEly said:


> When I was in my 20s, I once watched an old Indian guy working with a standard sized ax and 30-inch rounds of hardwood. He never went for the center split. His first split was to knock off a fairly flat piece along the edge, and then work his way through the round from one side to the other, using the edges he created and taking advantage of the natural fault lines in the wood, with each piece the appropriate size for either the cookstove or woodstove. I commented on this when he was taking a break. He said he'd been splitting wood his whole life with nothing but an ax.
> 
> He got this twinkle in his eye and made a comment about white men always taking the hard way. I had to laugh, because he was describing me.
> 
> ...



A guy I use to work with split wood the same way. He would split 24" plus rounds with ease, it was amazing, I tried to do it that way but couldn't. I guess it's a talent. My dad always taught me to keep the maul in front of me for saftey reasons. Don't know what those saftey reasons were but that was the way I taught.


----------



## frenchy85 (Oct 23, 2009)

But I guess now I use the lever method. Push the lever forward and the log splits.


----------



## laynes69 (Oct 23, 2009)

I learned after overshooting the wood a couple of times and sending a flying split into my shin the importance of accuracy. Its gotta be one of the worse pains.


----------



## tballard (Oct 23, 2009)

I find that the rise and fall method is far more accurate and efficient. If you need to put more oomph into it, you can generate more speed and power by using your hips. Watch the guy in the first video of this string. See how he sticks his butt out on the down stroke of his swing? That's how you generate speed and power. You're using big muscles and you can maintain great accuracy. My 2 cents....FWIW


----------



## 371groundie (Oct 23, 2009)

most of my splitting is done with a 2.5 -3lb axe. with a skinny little noodle of a handle. i have a very snappy swing that include snapping my wrists and knees. i can swing that axe all day long when some people get very tired of swinging 6 and 8 lb mauls. i do get picked on for my choice of such a small tool, but it gets the job done.


----------



## Philbert (Oct 23, 2009)

I've split a lot of pieces off of the sides, but to be honest, it was usually when I missed the center.

The version of the 'roundhouse' swing I learned as a Boy Scout has the axe/maul coming over my head, then the wrists slide together at the base of the handle, then I squat down as the head comes toward the wood.

I don't throw it like the guy in the second video - let the weight and momentum carry it through.

That technique also lets me keep up with some of the bigger boys at those bell ringing things at the State Fair.

Philbert


----------



## Wood Doctor (Oct 23, 2009)

frenchy85 said:


> But I guess now I use the lever method. Push the lever forward and the log splits.


:deadhorse:
As long as you have 10 Hp, a 22-gal pump, 600 lb of equipment, and a garage to store it in. :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Lugnutz (Oct 23, 2009)

Philbert said:


> That technique also lets me keep up with some of the bigger boys at those bell ringing things at the State Fair.
> 
> Philbert



I used to love doin that till my elbows started acting up ( thats why I use the lever method now!!) Seen some pretty big boys ( and young uns at that ) couldn't ring the bell, made me feel all warm and fuzzy to follow one of these guys and clank the bell a few times.


----------



## Harold46 (Oct 23, 2009)

I use the rise and fall method also. Adding to that, just before impact, I use my foreword-most hand as a fulcrum point, and pull up on the handle with my rear hand. I Seem to get that extra head-speed with the 8lb maul, and can notice a difference.
Harold46


----------



## coog (Oct 23, 2009)

Wood Doctor said:


> Rarely do I roundhouse swing anymore. Mass is sometimes more important then speed. Monster maul users do not roundhouse at all. But, they sure split a lot of wood with that beast. Take a look at this:
> 
> Psssttt... Solid oak is easy to split compared to elm, knotty pine, and several other wood species.



Method is efficient, but he has a fake non-Sotz Monster Maul.Look how the handle rolls as he completes his swing.A real MM is pinched in the grip,not round, giving greater control and focusing power to the wrists.For Red Oak , I would lift only 2-3 feet above the round before delivering the blow.Anyone ever see Bruce Lee reach behind his back before hitting a guy?


----------



## makomakoman (Oct 23, 2009)

Wood Doctor said:


> Rarely do I roundhouse swing anymore. Mass is sometimes more important then speed. Monster maul users do not roundhouse at all. But, they sure split a lot of wood with that beast. Take a look at this:
> 
> Psssttt... Solid oak is easy to split compared to elm, knotty pine, and several other wood species.




Funny, I guess I defined my roundhouse as never going back more than 1-2 O'Clock on "my roundhouse". 

Most of the time I start at 11-12 O'Clock for small stuff.

Anyways, that is how I split wood since I could swing a maul since I was kid.


----------



## angelo c (Oct 23, 2009)

No offense to the "roundhouse" guys but...there is the story about the old bull and the young bull sitting on the hill and the young bull says to the old bull.."hey let's run down the pasture and bag us a few 'dem cows.". To which the old bull says " youngster, let's walk down there and bag 'em all."

Wood splitting by hand is all about placements and not brute force. If you think you can "aim" your hits better by round housing then go for it young bull. Me and the old guy...were going at it from overhead and were gonna be there all day "hittin it" in the right places...

oh and most of the time I split on the ground. I see no reason to elevate the logs unless I have a very short block. I don't think its safe as the wood splits further apart and your shins are exposed to the occasional errant blow. it will hit the ground before it hits you. 

Just an old country bull from New Jersey....:lifter:


----------



## StihlyinEly (Oct 23, 2009)

angelo c said:


> No offense to the "roundhouse" guys but...there is the story about the old bull and the young bull sitting on the hill and the young bull says to the old bull.."hey let's run down the pasture and bag us a few 'dem cows.". To which the old bull says " youngster, let's walk down there and bag 'em all."
> 
> Wood splitting by hand is all about placements and not brute force. If you think you can "aim" your hits better by round housing then go for it young bull. Me and the old guy...were going at it from overhead and were gonna be there all day "hittin it" in the right places...
> 
> Just an old country bull from New Jersey....:lifter:



Can I get an AMEN, brother?


----------



## Woodjack (Oct 24, 2009)

With my Fiskar's 4.25 lb I use the baseball swing.
Instead of one hand forward on the handle and the other at the end of the handle, I hold both hands at the very end of the handle, like you'd hold a baseball bat. Then, I hold my legs fairly well spread apart and swing down for a home run every time.


----------



## Woodjack (Oct 24, 2009)

angelo c said:


> No offense to the "roundhouse" guys but...there is the story about the old bull and the young bull sitting on the hill and the young bull says to the old bull.."hey let's run down the pasture and bag us a few 'dem cows.". To which the old bull says " youngster, let's walk down there and bag 'em all."



. . . to which the young bull replied. "No thanks, pop. I'll go ahead and have me the young sweet ones. take your time and finish off the old biddies"


----------



## tibikedad (Oct 24, 2009)

Splitting wood by hand is all about transferring energy from the ax or maul to the wood in an accurate manner. The equation for the energy of a moving object is:

Energy = (mass x speed x speed) / 2

In simple terms, mass counts once, and speed counts twice. A lighter ax moving faster than a heavier ax will have more energy. This results in more splitting power. So the next time you see someone splitting wood with a small ax, maybe he knows something about physics!


----------



## angelo c (Oct 24, 2009)

Woodjack said:


> . . . to which the young bull replied. "No thanks, pop. I'll go ahead and have me the young sweet ones. take your time and finish off the old biddies"



" youth is wasted on the young..."


----------



## Wood Doctor (Oct 24, 2009)

tibikedad said:


> Splitting wood by hand is all about transferring energy from the ax or maul to the wood in an accurate manner. The equation for the energy of a moving object is:
> 
> Energy = (mass x speed x speed) / 2
> 
> In simple terms, mass counts once, and speed counts twice. A lighter ax moving faster than a heavier ax will have more energy. This results in more splitting power. So the next time you see someone splitting wood with a small ax, maybe he knows something about physics!


Up to a point. Go out there and try to split lots of firewood with a 2-lb maul. 

I'll take an ounce of experience for a pound of theory any day.


----------



## p575 (Oct 24, 2009)

angelo c said:


> oh and most of the time I split on the ground. I see no reason to elevate the logs unless I have a very short block. I don't think its safe as the wood splits further apart and your shins are exposed to the occasional errant blow. it will hit the ground before it hits you.
> 
> Just an old country bull from New Jersey....:lifter:



for me, i don't use a block so much to elevate the piece being split. the block is something to give me a level surface, that chips can be raked off of easily. more importantly, it puts all the energy of the swing into the piece being split, not into the ground around it (maybe your ground is frozen, but a lot of times i split in gravel or grass, and it absorbs a lot of energy...


----------



## p575 (Oct 24, 2009)

tibikedad said:


> Splitting wood by hand is all about transferring energy from the ax or maul to the wood in an accurate manner. The equation for the energy of a moving object is:
> 
> Energy = (mass x speed x speed) / 2
> 
> In simple terms, mass counts once, and speed counts twice. A lighter ax moving faster than a heavier ax will have more energy. This results in more splitting power. So the next time you see someone splitting wood with a small ax, maybe he knows something about physics!



but what if i can swing a maul as fast as you can swing an axe? (not saying for sure that i can...) that would yield more splitting power right?


----------



## makomakoman (Oct 24, 2009)

tibikedad said:


> Splitting wood by hand is all about transferring energy from the ax or maul to the wood in an accurate manner. The equation for the energy of a moving object is:
> 
> Energy = (mass x speed x speed) / 2
> 
> In simple terms, mass counts once, and speed counts twice. A lighter ax moving faster than a heavier ax will have more energy. This results in more splitting power. So the next time you see someone splitting wood with a small ax, maybe he knows something about physics!



Ahh..but force is:

Force = Mass (x) Acceleration 

Give me a 8lb maul


----------



## Wood Doctor (Oct 24, 2009)

p575 said:


> but what if i can swing a maul as fast as you can swing an axe? (not saying for sure that i can...) that would yield more splitting power right?



+1. True. Also, think of something else: speed kills. 

And, lighter axe heads tend to twist on the way down, especially if they drop faster. Mauls don't. If the axe head twists even 10 degrees, the lighter axe loses whatever advantage its extra speed supplied over the heavier maul.

As the man from Maine said, "Give me an 8-lb maul." This one is tough to beat:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200344806_200344806


----------



## Wedge32 (Oct 24, 2009)

Was in the zone the other night w/ the monster maul.

24 inch rounds easy splitting off the edges, upon impact could twist my wrist allowing the split to shear off while the flat side of the maul laid down ontop of the round. Holding it in place. Could get through whole round like this!!!


----------



## unclemoustache (Oct 24, 2009)

makomakoman said:


> Ahh..but force is:
> 
> Force = Mass (x) Acceleration
> 
> Give me a 8lb maul



Much to learn you still have. Force = Midichlorians (x) Sith Lord. Only then will a Darth Maul split through the wood.

I prefer to clamp my wood so it's suspended upside down about 4 feet off the ground and split it with the 'golf swing' approach. :jester:

No really, I use the Rise and Fall, but I stand a little closer to the wood than the guy in the first video. Seems like he's using an awful lot of back muscles in that swing, and I prefer to avoid that. Still, he gets that maul as high as he can. I think I might give that a try next time.


----------



## clearance (Oct 24, 2009)

Split lots of wood, since I was young. I usually use a 6 pound maul, sometimes a 41/2 pound Arvika axe. Speed does count, no doubt, so does power, which makes the speed, I guess. Lots of construction work with sledgehammers, picks, bars, have given me the knack. As others have said, the twist at the end is big. Also, concentration is big as well. 

But here is what is really important, try to get clear wood, like where it grew in competition with other trees. I can split big clear easy, with just my axe, so its what I strive for.


----------



## TallElf (Oct 25, 2009)

I shared these last year. Most of the time this is the standard method if they are under 20 Inch rounds. I haven't met an Oak, or a Locust that holds up to that 4.5lb axe. I am a firm believer that If I had a conveyor belt to move them past, I might be more productive. The larger pieces obviously take a few whacks, but I can usually get them busted in 1 or 2 swings. The really knotty snarled pieces end up on the BAD DAY AT WORK pile.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S55XLg3rG8
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiTkKj14DBg


----------



## unclemoustache (Oct 25, 2009)

TallElf said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S55XLg3rG8
> and
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiTkKj14DBg



Nice vids. You're really moving (If that's you). Not much waste of time or energy there. And for those pieces that need to be cut again, you just set them up all up again at once and let 'er rip. Good way to get the kids to help out as well - have them trail along behind you either stacking or setting back up. I'll have to try that. Only problem is that I'm not quite in shape enough to go at that pace!


----------



## ak4195 (Oct 25, 2009)

I prefer to split my wood in the winter if possible,or atleast 2 seasons seasoning,and always with a mall,always on a chopping stump.Sure I have to pick wood up several times,but I get more efficient power swing as apposed to on the ground.Not to mention,why in the world would you want to rock out a perfectly good piece of sharpened steel.
I cant see twisting my wrist(specially while Im moving at he-man supersonic speeds).That might work on "girly wood",but I do like to drop my waist/bend knees at crucial "crux of the bisquit" moment.
Regardless of how you do it,youll find most of the worlds problems are solved on the wood pile.Supposedly Abe Lincoln said this"Chopping wood is one of the few things a man can do and see instant progress."
Im not as manly as I used to be,so anything with a crotch or knots usually goes into the "Winter solstice bonfire" pile,and I dont want to run short for that one(and my blue collar elbows dont like the pain).

ak4195


----------



## airwolf (Oct 25, 2009)

StihlyinEly said:


> When I was in my 20s, I once watched an old Indian guy working with a standard sized ax and 30-inch rounds of hardwood. He never went for the center split. His first split was to knock off a fairly flat piece along the edge, and then work his way through the round from one side to the other, using the edges he created and taking advantage of the natural fault lines in the wood, with each piece the appropriate size for either the cookstove or woodstove. I commented on this when he was taking a break. He said he'd been splitting wood his whole life with nothing but an ax.



I use a similar technique, splitting pieces of the edge of a big round using a maul.



TallElf said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S55XLg3rG8
> and
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiTkKj14DBg



If you watch his second video, he leaves one hand on the base of the handle. The other hand slides down the handle as he swings. I wear mismatched gloves using this method. I use a rubber coated grippy glove on the bottom hand, so that the maul doesn't fly out of my hands, and a leather glove on the hand that slides down the handle. 

I am right handed, but swing the maul left handed. This allows my more coordinated right hand to aim the maul, since it is the hand that stays fixed at the base of the handle.


----------



## angelo c (Oct 25, 2009)

ak4195 said:


> Not to mention,why in the world would you want to rock out a perfectly good piece of sharpened steel.
> 
> ak4195



My theory is that it's easier to sharpen steel then to replace a shin...the compromise is to use a small block and a bungee cord to keep the rounds from flying about. 

Realistically I have never sharpened a maul or my splitter head, I think it gets stuck more often when sharp, but that's just me. I'ld rather sharpen a saw chain then a maul.

Good discussion going here guys !
A


----------



## toddstreeservic (Oct 25, 2009)

Its all about head speed at the point of contact. Its kinda like golf. If you buy a bigger driver will you hit the ball farther? Maybe. Can you be accurate and consistant all day with it? If yes then go for it. I can split all day with very limited stops with my fiskars, I can't do that w/ my 9lb maul. There are some rounds that the fiskars is too light for that get the maul or the hydraulic splitter.


----------



## Dok (Oct 25, 2009)

I think both methods are correct and I use both depending on how much force is needed for the particular piece. I have all sorts and sizes of mauls but the only one I actually use is a 8# fiberglass handle. You gotta find what works for you. After some two and a half decades of swinging the maul, I finally bought a splitter 
Dok


----------



## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2009)

tibikedad said:


> Splitting wood by hand is all about transferring energy from the ax or maul to the wood in an accurate manner. The equation for the energy of a moving object is:
> 
> Energy = (mass x speed x speed) / 2
> 
> In simple terms, mass counts once, and speed counts twice. A lighter ax moving faster than a heavier ax will have more energy. This results in more splitting power. So the next time you see someone splitting wood with a small ax, maybe he knows something about physics!



:agree2:


----------



## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2009)

Wood Doctor said:


> Up to a point. Go out there and try to split lots of firewood with a 2-lb maul.
> 
> I'll take an ounce of experience for a pound of theory any day.


:agree2:
You are right too.....up to a certain point....when you cant increase speed anymore by taking weight off the head....

If you guys play golf, you understand this.....older player with slower swing need little heavier club head....


----------



## Wood Doctor (Oct 25, 2009)

AKKAMAAN said:


> :agree2:
> You are right too.....up to a certain point....when you cant increase speed anymore by taking weight off the head....
> 
> If you guys play golf, you understand this.....older player with slower swing need little heavier club head....


That includes Tiger Woods, Phil Mickelson, Sergio Garcia, etc. Older players, baloney. They have all gone to heavier, more massive drivers and fareway woods. Note also the weight of the golf club irons (such as Ping) compared to irons 40 years ago or even 20 years ago. Good grief, even the putters are bigger and heavier.


----------



## redprospector (Oct 25, 2009)

laynes69 said:


> I learned after overshooting the wood a couple of times and sending a flying split into my shin the importance of accuracy. Its gotta be one of the worse pains.



Maybe ONE of the worst pains, but the absolute worst pain known to man is the shot they give you when having hemorrhoids removed as an out-patient. *WOW!!!* :jawdrop:

When I split with a maul I generally come all the way around from the ground, using momentum to lift the maul over my head.
In my humble opinion, splitting wood efficiently is a combination of energy and accuracy. If you can't hit the same place twice, you'll spend a lot more time on a tough block of wood.
When I was a kid my dad was teaching me to drive nails. Every time I'd miss the nail he would ask me; Do you look where you hit, or hit where you look?

Andy


----------



## AKKAMAAN (Oct 25, 2009)

Wood Doctor said:


> That includes Tiger Woods, Phil Mickelson, Sergio Garcia, etc. Older players, baloney. They have all gone to heavier, more massive drivers and fareway woods. Note also the weight of the golf club irons (such as Ping) compared to irons 40 years ago or even 20 years ago. Good grief, even the putters are bigger and heavier.



With older players I refere to the mens club at our local golf club....not the pro's. The reason they can go heavier is that pro golfers build muscles today, so they can accelerate that high mass head to enough speed to take advantage of that head weight...
They are so strong so they can swing a heavy head with almost the same speed as a lighter head.

We have been talking about lift and fall splitting here, that technique fits heavy heads, but if you want to accelerate that head more than the gravity does you need to use muscles......heavy head=big muscles, se Tiger...

I think we are on the same page Doc


----------



## Wood Doctor (Oct 25, 2009)

I thought we were are on the same page all along. There is a tradeoff between mass and speed. It's all a compromise. I admit that in my younger days a lighter, 6-lb maul probably would have worked better than an 8-lb maul because I could have swung it faster.

However, I went with the 8-lb maul 34 years ago because I liked the head and blade angles on it, and it seldom stuck in the wood. That was more important for me at the time. I still have that big maul, and it still serves me well. Nowadays I start by halving the big rounds with the 10-lb sledge and an 8-lb wedge. Once halved, the maul and I take over to finish the billet.

Fabulous exercise!


----------



## TallElf (Oct 25, 2009)

airwolf said:


> I use a similar technique, splitting pieces of the edge of a big round using a maul.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Along with the hand slide, if it really a bugger of a piece, I have squared up a little bit instead of the walk through and just powered through almost leaving the feet. My father has seen a few that he said put on "the pile" get busted up to a size that met it's end in the soapstone. I don't know where I pulled the technique from, It is just something that I have done since I was 9. and for the previous comment. That is me in the vid. I will have one sometime this fall./winter taking on the likes of a lever driven log splitter. :monkey:


----------



## unclemoustache (Oct 26, 2009)

redprospector said:


> Maybe ONE of the worst pains, but the absolute worst pain known to man is the shot they give you when having hemorrhoids removed as an out-patient. *WOW!!!* :jawdrop:




I see you've never had a kidney stone. Those little buggers hurt so bad I sometimes puke from the pain, and I enjoy the puking because it's a temporary mental relief from the overwhelming kidney stone pain.


----------



## redprospector (Oct 26, 2009)

unclemoustache said:


> I see you've never had a kidney stone. Those little buggers hurt so bad I sometimes puke from the pain, and I enjoy the puking because it's a temporary mental relief from the overwhelming kidney stone pain.



Hahahaha. We could have a heated debate about that. I do know that when they stuck that needle in............................Well, lets just say that I never knew that thing went back that far. 

Now back to the regular scheduled program.

Andy


----------



## Marc (Oct 26, 2009)

All my life, I've split with a maul thusly- Start of with my left hand at one end of the handle and my right hand near the head. I lift it above my head and progressively slide my right hand towards the left as I bring the maul down directly from overhead. As the head approaches the block, I retract my wrists toward my abdomen, contract my ab muscles, which results in giving that "snap."

That swing delivers the best impact, so far as I can tell, similar to why a trebuchet can out distance a catapult. I don't split wood with many people other than my father, so I've only seen an over the shoulder swing once, but it looked awkward... of course the one using it was not an experienced splitter either so take that for what it's worth.

This swing is certainly more effective the taller you are, and the longer your arms are.


----------



## SLVRTRC (Oct 26, 2009)

Marc said:


> All my life, I've split with a maul thusly- Start of with my left hand at one end of the handle and my right hand near the head. I lift it above my head and progressively slide my right hand towards the left as I bring the maul down directly from overhead. As the head approaches the block, I retract my wrists toward my abdomen, contract my ab muscles, which results in giving that "snap."
> 
> That swing delivers the best impact, so far as I can tell, similar to why a trebuchet can out distance a catapult. I don't split wood with many people other than my father, so I've only seen an over the shoulder swing once, but it looked awkward... of course the one using it was not an experienced splitter either so take that for what it's worth.
> 
> This swing is certainly more effective the taller you are, and the longer your arms are.



:agree2: thats how i split with my 8lb when i need a little extra power i swing the maul around and using the centripetal force of the up swing to come done with more speed and power kinda a hybrid rise and fall and round house my right hand still slides form the top and butts to my left on the down swing. 

a lot like tallelf's vids except i dont spread mine all out


----------



## Islander (Oct 26, 2009)

*Wow...Thanks for all the discussion*

Looks like lots of diverse opinions on correct swinging methods.

I ordered a Fiskars 4 1/4 lb 28" splitter, and plan to practice my "rise and fall" swing with the new tool. Seems like it may be easier with my smaller rounds. I split a lot of Ash, and the smaller rounds go pretty easily unless they're really knotty, and the rise and fall swing may be more sustainable.

One thing I notice, especially with the True Temper Super Splitter, is that commonly my splits really get thrown to each side upon splitting. Makes me think I'm putting in more energy than needed. Some of this is caused by the shape of the head as the short radius of the curved head really launches the wood.

I hope the Fiskars splitter is a little smarter in design, and hopefully doesn't launch splits as much. That combined with a smarter swing may mean I get a little less exercise, but also maybe a little less pain on Monday morning (like today) after hoofing wood on the weekend. And hopefully a bigger wood pile if I can find more time to fall more trees (a whole other efficiency thread indeed)...

Thanks again!


----------



## AKKAMAAN (Oct 26, 2009)

Islander said:


> One thing I notice, especially with the True Temper Super Splitter, is that commonly my *splits really get thrown to each side* upon splitting. Makes me think I'm *putting in more energy than needed*. Some of this is caused by the shape of the head as the short radius of the curved head really launches the wood.



Try this tech....hit OPPOSITE SIDE of your LARGE round, FOR SAFETY. If you miss you wont hit into your legs. This is hard with smaller rounds if you dont BUNDLE THEM TOGETHER. Use a rope or a ROPE combined with a BUNGEE CORD. Use a LARGE DIAMETER SPLITTING BLOCK. *HIT THE OPPOSITE SIDE, FOR SAFETY!*







<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MVSwICvpIVE&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MVSwICvpIVE&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

*Have fun, and use more time splitting and less time picking up logs from the ground!!*


----------



## Philbert (Oct 26, 2009)

I tried the spare tire method, after seeing it on this site. It helped alot.

Instead of a bungee cord, set the piece inside one or more old stacked tires to keep the pieces from flying.

Also cushions the blow of a missed swing!

Philbert


----------



## Nonprophet (Oct 27, 2009)

Philbert said:


> I tried the spare tire method, after seeing it on this site. It helped alot.
> 
> Instead of a bungee cord, set the piece inside one or more old stacked tires to keep the pieces from flying.
> 
> ...



:agree2:

I've been using a tire for a month or so now--can't believe I used to split wood without one! Between my pulp hook and the tire on my chopping block, my back is in heaven!!! I also like the added safety of the tire absorbing any misses or glancing blows.

NP


----------



## Islander (Oct 27, 2009)

*Tire & Bungee Ideas*

After watching the video, I'm planning to give these ideas a try this weekend. 

If I look at how much energy I waste on fetching "launchers", and the safety issues too, seems like its worth a shot.

I do lean manufacturing stuff for work, and we always harp on eliminating wasted motion. For splitting wood, the act of actually splitting the wood is value added work, but all that gathering and moving is not. Seems like these methods could eliminate some of the waste...

Between using a DR Powerwagon to move wood from the woodlot to the pile, better organizing my wood pile (adding pallets for "book ends" has helped save time by not having to cross-stacking the ends), and splitting in smaller batches next to the main pile (avoiding piles of unsplit rounds that need moving), I'm getting leaner and spending more time on the fun stuff...internal combustion therapy (chainsaw), splitting, and of course burning.


----------



## Woodjack (Oct 27, 2009)

Nonprophet said:


> :agree2:
> 
> I've been using a tire for a month or so now--can't believe I used to split wood without one! Between my pulp hook and the tire on my chopping block, my back is in heaven!!! I also like the added safety of the tire absorbing any misses or glancing blows.
> 
> NP



any pics?


----------



## woodbooga (Oct 27, 2009)

airwolf said:


> I am right handed, but swing the maul left handed. This allows my more coordinated right hand to aim the maul, since it is the hand that stays fixed at the base of the handle.



I'm the same way. Ditto with swinging a baseball bat, sweeping with a broom, raking, playing put-put golf, or anything else with a handle.

I guess I use a hybrid technique. I lift the head of the maul to the apex with my left hand off to the side and let it drop in one continuous motion. The maul's ascent begins at around hip height.

I do the all in front of me method if aim is an absolute priority, e.g., if I'm halving a too-large split or putting the finishing touches on a cleave that made it only 2/3's through on the previous whack.

I've been splitting a lot of white pine fof kindling lately. For that I use an axe - all in front.


----------



## coog (Oct 27, 2009)

I don't think I'd better analyze my swing too much; I'd probably hit my foot if I tried to swing and think at the same time.

I have somewhat of the same Left/Right issue as you, except I use my left as my trigger hand on guns and chainsaws even though I'm right handed.


----------



## woodbooga (Oct 27, 2009)

coog said:


> I don't think I'd better analyze my swing too much; I'd probably hit my foot if I tried to swing and think at the same time.



I hear you on that. I had to think real hard about the mechanics of my swing. I usually just 'read the wood,'pick up my maul or axe, and have at it. Seems almost involuntary - and writing about it as difficult as describing the mechanics of breathing, swallowing, or sneezing.



> I have somewhat of the same Left/Right issue as you, except I use my left as my trigger hand on guns and chainsaws even though I'm right handed.


We only had right handed guns growing up, so I had little choice. Also, all my saws are right handed. So's my truck. And my peavey and pulphook.

Like a left-handed Jimi Hendrix learning to play a right-handed guitar. 

Seriously, though, my wife gets mildly p.o'd at me because I'm lefthanded when I put wood in the stove. Aparenetly I leave the lid lift and poker facing the wrong direction after I load up the firebox.


----------



## injun joe (Oct 27, 2009)

StihlyinEly said:


> When I was in my 20s, I once watched an old Indian guy working with a standard sized ax and 30-inch rounds of hardwood. He never went for the center split. His first split was to knock off a fairly flat piece along the edge, and then work his way through the round from one side to the other, using the edges he created and taking advantage of the natural fault lines in the wood, with each piece the appropriate size for either the cookstove or woodstove. I commented on this when he was taking a break. He said he'd been splitting wood his whole life with nothing but an ax.
> 
> He got this twinkle in his eye and made a comment about white men always taking the hard way. I had to laugh, because he was describing me.
> 
> ...



same way i split the big rounds. lol fine words my fellow indian jk.


----------



## Woodjack (Oct 27, 2009)

injun joe said:


> same way i split the big rounds. lol fine words my fellow indian jk.



Yeah, that's a beautiful story - but it's twice the work to chip away at the ends. The only time it makes sense to split wood that way is when it's too difficult to split down the middle.

. . . as I said to my grandson as he observed my ax work with a twinkle in his eye.


----------



## injun joe (Oct 27, 2009)

Woodjack said:


> Yeah, that's a beautiful story - but it's twice the work to chip away at the ends. The only time it makes sense to split wood that way is when it's too difficult to split down the middle.
> 
> . . . as I said to my grandson as he observed my ax work with a twinkle in his eye.



well the cottonwood is way to knotty to split in the center. when i was first learning i thought the center would work boy was i surely mistaken. if you wanna split a small round of cottonwood bout 20'' gotta hit the very edge just to put a crack in it. then after that splittin it aint to bad. but on the big damp rounds you gotta work the sides until you reach the center and even when you reach that sometimes it wont split. i also noticed that a lot of the wood being split on here is really straight. almost as straight as an arrow(not in flight). anyone else use a 2 1/2# double bit axe?


----------



## Philbert (Oct 28, 2009)

injun joe said:


> well the cottonwood is way to knotty to split in the center. when i was first learning i thought the center would work boy was i surely mistaken. if you wanna split a small round of cottonwood bout 20'' gotta hit the very edge just to put a crack in it. then after that splittin it aint to bad. but on the big damp rounds you gotta work the sides until you reach the center and even when you reach that sometimes it wont split. i also noticed that a lot of the wood being split on here is really straight. almost as straight as an arrow(not in flight). anyone else use a 2 1/2# double bit axe?



Nasty stuff I would use wedges and a sledge.

Philbert


----------



## Marc (Oct 28, 2009)

Interesting how many people use a sledgehammer with wedges.

I've found I've never needed more than my 6 or 8 lb maul to drive a wedge, and why lug another tool, 12 lbs at that, all the way to where you're splitting if you don't have to? Wedges are heavy enough as it is. I tried using a sledge with wedges once and I didn't like having to switch between heavy and light, either. Once I got my arms trained to swing 6 or 8 lbs, they seem to like to stay with the 6 or 8 lbs.


----------



## toddstreeservic (Oct 28, 2009)

Philbert said:


> Nasty stuff I would use wedges and a sledge.
> 
> Philbert



I have a 1 in slug of metal in my thigh still from a wedge. I tend to not use them as much as I used to. Be sure they are dressed if you use them!


----------



## Farmall Guy (Oct 28, 2009)

I pick away at the sides with a double bit ax, I find that I can get things split up alot faster than swinging the maul. I like it because it makes the splits more manageable for mom if she needs to load the OWB and my sholders and back dont get sore with the ax, to each is own I guess. 

I save the nasty stuff for the splitter but in the time it takes to get the tractor out and hook up the splitter I can have quite a bit of good easy splitting stuff busted up. Not to mention a 100 horse farm tractor burns alot more fuel than I do while splitting wood


----------



## Philbert (Oct 28, 2009)

Marc said:


> Interesting how many people use a sledgehammer with wedges.
> 
> I've found I've never needed more than my 6 or 8 lb maul to drive a wedge, and why lug another tool, 12 lbs at that, all the way to where you're splitting if you don't have to? Wedges are heavy enough as it is. I tried using a sledge with wedges once and I didn't like having to switch between heavy and light, either. Once I got my arms trained to swing 6 or 8 lbs, they seem to like to stay with the 6 or 8 lbs.



I only use them on very large pieces or very gnarly stuff that doesn't want to split. Multiple wedges open up stuff that does not split cleanly, or that even wedges the first wedge. If it splits with an axe or maul, no need.

Usually use an 8 pound sledge, so it is similar to your maul. Sledge hammers are designed to be softer so that they are less likely to send chips of metal flying. And, as noted above, I keep the edges of the wedges (as well as chisels, sledge hammers, etc.) dressed smoothly.

Usually split next to the garage or tool shed, etc., so hauling extra tools is not really an issue. Different if you haul stuff into the woods to split.

Philbert


----------



## Woodjack (Oct 28, 2009)

toddstreeservic said:


> I have a 1 in slug of metal in my thigh still from a wedge. I tend to not use them as much as I used to. Be sure they are dressed if you use them!



What does that mean (dressed) and how do you do it?


----------



## Philbert (Oct 28, 2009)

Woodjack said:


> What does that mean (dressed) and how do you do it?



When you pound on any striking tool (cold chisel, steel splitting wedge, etc.) the top end is softer metal so that it does not shatter when hit. It tends to peen, or 'mushroom' over with sharp edges exposed around the top. These sharp edges can cut your hands, or break off and fly causing injury.

'Dressing' refers to grinding off the sharp edges and leaving a smooth striking surface with a slight, rounded bevel around the top so that there are no sharp edges. Striking surface should look similar to that of a new tool when done.

Considered good safety practice and required by OSHA on striking tools.

Philbert


----------



## Marc (Oct 28, 2009)

Philbert said:


> I only use them on very large pieces or very gnarly stuff that doesn't want to split. Multiple wedges open up stuff that does not split cleanly, or that even wedges the first wedge. If it splits with an axe or maul, no need.
> 
> Usually use an 8 pound sledge, so it is similar to your maul. Sledge hammers are designed to be softer so that they are less likely to send chips of metal flying. And, as noted above, I keep the edges of the wedges (as well as chisels, sledge hammers, etc.) dressed smoothly.
> 
> ...



I wasn't talking about the use of wedges, I may not have been clear. I use wedges all the time, especially when I split 3 - 4 ft lengths, which I do often.

I just meant using a sledgehammer to drive wedges instead of the splitting maul. Seemed unnecessary to me. I've never sent shrapnel flying by driving a wedge with a maul, although I try not to miss either


----------



## Philbert (Oct 28, 2009)

Marc said:


> I just meant using a sledgehammer to drive wedges instead of the splitting maul. Seemed unnecessary to me.



I didn't have a splitting maul. I split the smaller stuff with an axe and the bigger stuff with the sledge and wedges. Over the years, I picked up a couple of mauls, but neither one of those is good for driving wedges. I know that some others are.

Philbert


----------



## Woodjack (Oct 28, 2009)

Marc said:


> I wasn't talking about the use of wedges, I may not have been clear. I use wedges all the time, especially when I split 3 - 4 ft lengths, which I do often.
> 
> I just meant using a sledgehammer to drive wedges instead of the splitting maul. Seemed unnecessary to me. I've never sent shrapnel flying by driving a wedge with a maul, although I try not to miss either



Sure, you can drive wedges with a maul, and hauling around an extra heavy tool is a pain in the ass, but a sledge hammer is the proper tool to drive wedges. Easier and safer.


----------



## Marc (Oct 29, 2009)

Woodjack said:


> Sure, you can drive wedges with a maul, and hauling around an extra heavy tool is a pain in the ass, but a sledge hammer is the proper tool to drive wedges. Easier and safer.



Ok. You piqued my interest. Why is it safer to hit a wedge with a sledge hammer? And why is it easier, particularly if the you're using a sledge with the same head weight? I grew up in a community where wood burning and cord wood harvesting was the norm. I always assumed the reason a maul had a hammer on one end was for driving wedges. No one I knew ever injured themselves driving a wedge with a maul. 

As a matter of fact, similar to Bill Cosby's story, for a while growing up I thought my name was "maul and wedges" because my dad would finish bucking, put the saw down, look at me and say "maul and wedges."


----------



## Woodjack (Oct 29, 2009)

Marc said:


> . . . Why is it safer to hit a wedge with a sledge hammer? And why is it easier, particularly if the you're using a sledge with the same head weight? I grew up in a community where wood burning and cord wood harvesting was the norm. I always assumed the reason a maul had a hammer on one end was for driving wedges. No one I knew ever injured themselves driving a wedge with a maul.



Injuries, minor and major, are common when splitting wood (fingers, shins, etc.), just like in construction. The objective is to minimize the likelihood of injuries, especially a major injury. When I'm swinging an 8lb splitting maul with the sharp edge facing up and towards me, my common sense screams at me to stop. 

I find that sledge hammers usually have a larger strike surface and a better balance than most splitting mauls, making it easier to hit the mark properly and therefore safer as well.


----------



## Marc (Oct 29, 2009)

Woodjack said:


> Injuries, minor and major, are common when splitting wood (fingers, shins, etc.), just like in construction. The objective is to minimize the likelihood of injuries, especially a major injury. When I'm swinging an 8lb splitting maul with the sharp edge facing up and towards me, my common sense screams at me to stop.
> 
> I find that sledge hammers usually have a larger strike surface and a better balance than most splitting mauls, making it easier to hit the mark properly and therefore safer as well.



Well you're not swinging the sharp end _towards_ your face, are you?  Maybe it helps my mauls are quite dull. I find they're less likely to get stuck and more likely to find the fracture that way. Never really had a problem hitting a wedge with a maul. I think if you're accurate enough to hit a split with the narrow end where you want to, you should be able to find a wedge with the blunt side no problem.

But I see what you're saying, it just seems a tad far fetched to me that the difference in safety between hitting a wedge with a maul and a sledgehammer makes it worth the effort to drag both out. Especially when compared to other aspects of firewood harvesting, like falling a tree, or using a chainsaw in general.


----------



## Islander (Oct 29, 2009)

I'm no maul expert, but one difference between a typical maul and a sledge hammer is the machined end.

Most sledges are machined, most mauls are not (my impression...please correct if I'm wrong). 

Seems to me that a machined end would provide more predictable impact, and less likelihood of slipping on impact. Although a wedge quickly looks pretty beat up after some use, so maybe this doesn't matter that much.

Also I wonder about how a sledge hammer is forged. Might they be forged more on the face making a tougher impact surface?

In any case, I'd say if the face is not machined, then it is probably not designed for using as a hammer.


----------



## Marc (Oct 29, 2009)

Last maul I had was machined on the blunt side. Very obviously machined.

But that doesn't mean necessarily it wasn't meant for use as a hammer, even if it isn't machined. The el cheapo mauls at Home Despot I don't think are machined, but that is probably only because they didn't want to spend the money to machine it in the factory in China where it was cranked out. Not because it was intended for one use or another.

The older sledgehammers I have I don't think are machined either. It's hard to tell because of the age and wear, but I don't think they were.


----------



## Philbert (Oct 29, 2009)

Whether sledge, maul, or anything in-between, the striking face of a striking tool designed to strike another metal tool, is supposed to be softer so that it does not spark, shatter, or chip off. 

That is why you see the warning sticker on hammers "Not to be used to strike hardened nails". Ball peen hammers, engineer's hammers, etc., have softer faces than nail driving hammers, because they are used to hit metal and to drive cold chisels.

It is hard to know how a sledge or maul has been made by looking at it. It should be forged, not cast. It is possible to temper the head many different ways and to temper the ends differently. But it is anyones' guess what you get when you pick up a cheapie somewhere.

Gets technical, but also interesting how many variations there are on one of the most basic tools - maybe the second tool (after the club?): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammer

Philbert


----------



## TallElf (Nov 1, 2009)

I do have to say, Instead of using a bungee, or a tire, I used a ratchet strap to hold the round together while I split it in the woods today. Was able to lift it up to the truck and then remove the ratchet strap... Stacked nice and neat, as well as only had to move one piece, not 25. 

I guess the work smart, not harder approach as opposed to smashing the :censored: out of rounds and then picking them up to smash the :censored: out of them again is a great stress relief, however there is something to be said for not having to bust your :censored: all :censored: day picking up the leftovers from smashing the :censored: out of those poor unsuspecting rounds. Even my dad was impressed, as simple as it is.


----------



## stihl sawing (Nov 1, 2009)

How many of you have ever missed the head of a steel wedge with a sledgehammer and knocked it back in you're shin....................Please tell me i ain't the only one.


----------



## coog (Nov 1, 2009)

stihl sawing said:


> How many of you have ever missed the head of a steel wedge with a sledgehammer and knocked it back in you're shin....................Please tell me i ain't the only one.



You are the only one that I know of.Sheesh


----------



## stihl sawing (Nov 1, 2009)

coog said:


> You are the only one that I know of.Sheesh


LOL, It was many years ago and i hit it off centered a little and the wedge went sideways and rolled over and tagged the shin bone. Got that ole sick feeling in the gut. Now there was a reason why i might have missed it but won't get into that.lol


----------



## injun joe (Nov 2, 2009)

stihl sawing said:


> How many of you have ever missed the head of a steel wedge with a sledgehammer and knocked it back in you're shin....................Please tell me i ain't the only one.



lol no you aint the only 1:spam:. yeah i did that + i also did it with an 8# maul. i was splitting a round and it split way to easy and it kept on doing right into my shin. needless to say the maul flew across he wood pile and i called it a day.i also did it with my double bit axe.luckily i wasnt swinging hard or i'd have a prosthetic leg.


----------



## stihl sawing (Nov 2, 2009)

injun joe said:


> lol no you aint the only 1:spam:. yeah i did that + i also did it with an 8# maul. i was splitting a round and it split way to easy and it kept on doing right into my shin. needless to say the maul flew across he wood pile and i called it a day.i also did it with my double bit axe.luckily i wasnt swinging hard or i'd have a prosthetic leg.


Ouch on the hit with the maul, Also glad ya wasn't swingin hard with the axe.


----------



## psych038 (Nov 2, 2009)

whenever splitting big rounds my buddy and i go around the edge and use the "windmill" method. dont draw it backover your head but just swing it back close to the ground round and round and round. great speed and you just kinda keepa good momentum. but yeah it wears you out and kinda hard on the elbows. i might try the above the head method. never had much like that way but i was prob doing it wrong.


----------



## thefeckerwest (Jun 30, 2014)

ak4195 said:


> I prefer to split my wood in the winter if possible,or atleast 2 seasons seasoning,and always with a mall,always on a chopping stump.Sure I have to pick wood up several times,but I get more efficient power swing as apposed to on the ground.Not to mention,why in the world would you want to rock out a perfectly good piece of sharpened steel.
> I cant see twisting my wrist(specially while Im moving at he-man supersonic speeds).That might work on "girly wood",but I do like to drop my waist/bend knees at crucial "crux of the bisquit" moment.
> Regardless of how you do it,youll find most of the worlds problems are solved on the wood pile.Supposedly Abe Lincoln said this"Chopping wood is one of the few things a man can do and see instant progress."
> Im not as manly as I used to be,so anything with a crotch or knots usually goes into the "Winter solstice bonfire" pile,and I dont want to run short for that one(and my blue collar elbows dont like the pain).
> ...


It was Albert Einstein that said: "people love chopping wood. In this activity one immediately sees results."


----------



## Butterbean 150 (Oct 23, 2018)

I guess my methos is kind of a hybrid. I toss it up with my left hand while the right hand is on the poll and start the head down and slide my left hand down the handle to meet my right hand and just before impact I pull up on my right and push down with my left to increase leverage. That's on the regular rounds and my feet are equal distance apart and square to the swing. This gives me the best accuracy. My power swing is a lol different. My left foot is forward of my right foot and I get a bigger windup on the back swing. I take it really high and use my abdominal muscles to coil everything in a downward pull and really " snap" my wrists before impact. It creates tremendous power through the round.


----------



## rarefish383 (Oct 23, 2018)

Welcome to AS Butterbean. I think it's like hitting a baseball. Bat speed, Axe speed. I start with my hands apart and bring them together fast as I snap my wrists. When I was about 20 I quit using 6-8 pound mauls and went to a 4 pound axe on a 30-32" handle. Now I collect axes and use the splitter.


----------

