# Exhaust Manifold Gasket Repair



## svk (Jan 14, 2021)

The manifold gaskets are almost completely blown out of my 97' 2500 Chevy wood hauling/plow truck. The exhaustbolts won't come undone so basically the manifolds need to come off which will result in broken studs in the heads so then the heads would need to come off. In other words, not feasible to do for a $1000 truck. I see JB weld makes "extreme heat" version. Wondering if using this stuff would work to shore up the exhaust leaks. I do not need it to be perfect but it is pretty bad right now.


----------



## SimonHS (Jan 14, 2021)

Persevere at loosening the bolts. A good soak with PlusGas or acetone + ATF mix might work wonders. Or a gentle heating with a gas torch?


----------



## lone wolf (Jan 14, 2021)

svk said:


> The manifold gaskets are almost completely blown out of my 97' 2500 Chevy wood hauling/plow truck. The exhaustbolts won't come undone so basically the manifolds need to come off which will result in broken studs in the heads so then the heads would need to come off. In other words, not feasible to do for a $1000 truck. I see JB weld makes "extreme heat" version. Wondering if using this stuff would work to shore up the exhaust leaks. I do not need it to be perfect but it is pretty bad right now.


Did you try heating them with a torch? Then try soaking every day with penetrating oil for a week. Then repeat.


----------



## Goinwheelin (Jan 14, 2021)

Torch and a welder lol.


----------



## svk (Jan 14, 2021)

We already tried with a torch. And every bolt I have tried to loosen in this exhaust system previously has broken. 240K miles plus lots of Minnesota salty roads.....


----------



## ktmtigger (Jan 14, 2021)

I actually used the jb extreme heat putty on an ford 6.0 diesel manifold that rotted through and its been holding great. Cleaned it with a wire brush and brake kleen then put 4 or 5 layers over the whole

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


----------



## J.W Younger (Jan 16, 2021)

lone wolf said:


> Did you try heating them with a torch? Then try soaking every day with penetrating oil for a week. Then repeat.


It should never have had gaskets between the manifold and head in the 1st place, if the manifold is warped it should have been resurfaced, if it wasn't warped and gaskets were used it probable is now. Those steel and asbestos gaskets that come in rebuild kits need to be discarded, they shrink and then blow out.


----------



## svk (Jan 16, 2021)

Let me clarify. My issues are the donut gasket between the manifold and the pipe. Not between the manifold and the head. Sorry about that.


----------



## J.W Younger (Jan 16, 2021)

svk said:


> Let me clarify. My issues are the donut gasket between the manifold and the pipe. Not between the manifold and the head. Sorry about that.


Then why would you have said the heads would have to come off?


----------



## cookies (Jan 16, 2021)

pretty sure those have studs on the manifold outlets, break them off and remove the y pipe.now you can get to the studs. I like to try and use crayons if i have the room, heat your fastener then melt the wax into the threads and let it cool, do this a couple times to get wax buildup in the threads..if you must spray a liquid I like this mix or something close to it. dexIII/merc 40-60% diesel or kerosine or lamp oil 15-25% acetone or lacquer thinner 15-25% preferrably spray it down every time it cools for a few days in a row.


----------



## J.W Younger (Jan 16, 2021)

cookies said:


> pretty sure those have studs on the manifold outlets, break them off and remove the y pipe.now you can get to the studs. I like to try and use crayons if i have the room, heat your fastener then melt the wax into the threads and let it cool, do this a couple times to get wax buildup in the threads..if you must spray a liquid I like this mix or something close to it. dexIII/merc 40-60% diesel or kerosine or lamp oil 15-25% acetone or lacquer thinner 15-25% preferrably spray it down every time it cools for a few days in a row.


I like to use turpentine but the real stuff may be kinda hard to find these days. Muffler/exhaust shops deal with this issue on a daily basis and might be the best bet for someone not so mechanically inclined.


----------



## avason (Jan 16, 2021)

I am sure this is more than you want to do but this is a good watch for a rainy Saturday before the wings start cooking for some football tonight. This guy, Eric, from southmain auto is pretty awesome to watch. I guarantee a few of you will subscribe to his channel if you haven't already. Good luck with the j.b weld. My philosophy if it's already broken then you can't break it. Edit: Just read the part about the doughnut gasket. That sure is a hell of a lot better then the manifold bolt/gasket. I used J.B. weld on my 97 nissan maxima flex pipe until I could get someone to put another one on. Surprisingly, t worked well for a while even though it was the flex pipe.


----------



## furb (Jan 17, 2021)

Can you get split flanges on it to put it back together?


----------



## ChoppyChoppy (Jan 17, 2021)

Just blow the studs out with torch.


----------



## Goinwheelin (Jan 17, 2021)

ChoppyChoppy said:


> Just blow the studs out with torch.


Or weld the manifold to the head.


----------



## Goinwheelin (Jan 17, 2021)

Not that I would recommend that but I’ve seen it.


----------



## cookies (Jan 17, 2021)

no space and the manifold is cast iron and the joint needs the option to flex


----------



## buzz sawyer (Jan 18, 2021)

svk said:


> Let me clarify. My issues are the donut gasket between the manifold and the pipe. Not between the manifold and the head. Sorry about that.


Repeating this - some may have missed it. It's been a long time since I've had to deal with exhaust donuts and it's no fun, especially in tight quarters. We just always used a lot of heat or drilled the stud out and used a bolt and nut. 
Are you using fiber donuts? Seems like there were solid steel or cast iron donuts available at one time.


----------



## svk (Jan 18, 2021)

buzz sawyer said:


> Repeating this - some may have missed it. It's been a long time since I've had to deal with exhaust donuts and it's no fun, especially in tight quarters. We just always used a lot of heat or drilled the stud out and used a bolt and nut.
> Are you using fiber donuts? Seems like there were solid steel or cast iron donuts available at one time.


After more contemplation I’m thinking I’m going to sell the truck. It just has too many issues to deal with and I have a newer plow truck.


----------



## cookies (Jan 20, 2021)

buzz sawyer said:


> Repeating this - some may have missed it. It's been a long time since I've had to deal with exhaust donuts and it's no fun, especially in tight quarters. We just always used a lot of heat or drilled the stud out and used a bolt and nut.
> Are you using fiber donuts? Seems like there were solid steel or cast iron donuts available at one time.


there have only ever been two choices, one is fiber and the other is stainless mesh with graphite embedded. The easiest way to do this is to use a oxy/acet torch to blow out the studs from the top then use bolts to put it back together, is it the right way? no but it will work just fine on a ol beater firewood hauler. no torch? break both sides off and drop the y pipe. Cut then grind the studs flat to the manifold flange then drill and use bolts to reinstall. Its a 45 minute job with the torch, 1.5hrs or less the other way. a good tip is to measure the y pipe to the ground, cut two rounds that length to use as a holder when putting back together.


----------



## JeffHK454 (Jan 20, 2021)

Just try to get them out with some penetrating oil..if they brake just drill out for through bolts if possible or tap for step studs.


----------



## Mufflermonkey (Feb 27, 2021)

Drive it down to the local muffler shop spend 100$ and forget about it


----------



## esshup (Feb 28, 2021)

SVK, what did you end up doing, and did it fix the problem?


----------

