# Removing Stihl Limiter Caps



## sarge14 (Feb 26, 2009)

Just thought I'd pass this on. The limiter cap on the High set screw of my MS460 has kept me from 4 stroking the saw during adjustment. Also, the saw had a dead spot when going from idle to full throttle and the Low set screw wouldn't take it out. After several adjustments the dead spot still showed up. I checked the impulse/fuel line and the carb for leaks, with everything checking out AOK. 

Last week, I talked to a friend of mine who is a mechanic at our local Stihl dealership and he told me that he has had this type of problem before and the best thing to do is take out the limiter caps so the saw could be adjusted right. He said the best way he found to remove the caps is to remove the carb and take a coarse drywall screw and screw it down into the red limter cap (Either Low or High). He then told me to take a pair of pliers and pull the screw out and the cap would follow. He said to repeat this for the other cap.

Well tonight I tried it and it worked perfect. A small part of the plastic was left inside, but after removing the set screws and with the help of a small screwdriver, I got the rest of the caps out.

I readjusted the carb and it works like a brand new one. I searched the threads for this type of removal but couldn't find anything. Hope this helps someone with a problem like mine.


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## 2000ssm6 (Feb 26, 2009)

Good info but you need to replace the caps when it's tuned, the caps help keep the screws from walking out.


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## sarge14 (Feb 26, 2009)

2000ssm6 said:


> Good info but you need to replace the caps when it's tuned, the caps help keep the screws from walking out.



Are the screws known to walk out on this or other Stihl models?


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## 2000ssm6 (Feb 26, 2009)

sarge14 said:


> Are the screws known to walk out on this or other Stihl models?



The older models had a spring behind the screw to keep 'em steady. You may not ever have a problem with yours coming out but the caps are only a quarter or two each. Cut off the big tab so you can adjust the screws without having to pull the caps back out.


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## sarge14 (Feb 26, 2009)

2000ssm6 said:


> The older models had a spring behind the screw to keep 'em steady. You may not ever have a problem with yours coming out but the caps are only a quarter or two each. Cut off the big tab so you can adjust the screws without having to pull the caps back out.



Thanks for the info!


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## ironman_gq (Feb 26, 2009)

I just used a pick. the tab on the cap lines up with a slot in the carb body and they slide out most of the way then pull em all the way out with pliers. I was able to leave my carb on and had em out in less than 5 minutes


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## SCOOTER (Feb 26, 2009)

I use a small crochet hook,, and just pull them out,, cut off the tabs with an exacto knife and push them back in.. no problem at all.. that's the way I do it and works like a charm


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## flashpuppy (Feb 26, 2009)

I'm not real familiar with the Stihl limiter caps. Does anyone have a pic so I can get a better understanding of this?


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## Brian VT (Feb 26, 2009)

I just cut the tabs off with a razor knife. Why pull them ?


Before:


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## Lakeside53 (Feb 26, 2009)

Different carb... those you can trim without removal.. The later HD series you cannot.


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## Orange Hill (Feb 26, 2009)

Brian VT said:


> I just cut the tabs off with a razor knife. Why pull them ?
> 
> 
> Before:



The newer Stihl carbs have different caps then you have pictured. They are recessed into collars and have to be turned fully clock wise to line up the tab with the channel cut into the collars before they can be pulled.


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## Brian VT (Feb 26, 2009)

My bad. Sorry. I guess the EPA caught on and made it tougher. SOBs.
How long before they mandate fixed jetting and nothing will run right ?
Fuel injected, computerized, catalytic convertered hand tools ? Those sound affordable and light weight.


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## matt9923 (Aug 5, 2009)

Brian VT said:


> My bad. Sorry. I guess the EPA caught on and made it tougher. SOBs.
> How long before they mandate fixed jetting and nothing will run right ?
> Fuel injected, computerized, catalytic convertered hand tools ? Those sound affordable and light weight.



I know this is old but just what i was looking for.

If they do that idk what will do. 
Fixed jet carbs.. i have to work with those hunks of crap all day on these craftsman lawnmowers.


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## angelo c (Aug 5, 2009)

matt9923 said:


> I know this is old but just what i was looking for.
> 
> If they do that idk what will do.
> Fixed jet carbs.. i have to work with those hunks of crap all day on these craftsman lawnmowers.



I have a question.
If the limiter caps really cause the adjustments to not "walk around" does it really matter. I think if your going to use a saw you should need to be able to tune it almost as often as you adjust the chain. the fuel and conditions vary enough to support my thinking right?. I don't think setting mixture and Idle speeds is a "set and forget" thing. Kind of like chain sharpening I guess, something you need to learn how to do right eventually.


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## mwood1986 (Nov 30, 2009)

*Pictures! From my Stihl 029 I removed.*

Thought I'd tag these pics to this thread to help a little I didn't remove my carb either and just used a screw I had in arms reach

Before I started





After I took out the rubber grommet which comes right out





Here I just put a drywall screw in it a couple turns which grabbed the cap enough to turn it and line up the groove so I could pull the cap out





Here I pulled it about halfway out with a little effort (sawdust kinda hung it up a bit)





Same with the other side





And the final product, the little metal insert that held the caps in place came out with the second cap so I just tapped it back in as a screwdriver guide more than anything.





Hope this helps someone out


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## Rookie1 (Nov 30, 2009)

Nice job removing limiters. And nice job adding pics to the thread.


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## gemniii (Mar 1, 2010)

Where can one get replacement caps?
The previous owner "trimmed" mine I think and now they seem to "walk".

The saw was running fine with the low set about 3/8 out (versus the start point of 1/4), but when I went to start it today after about 1/3 hour of sawing two days ago, it was over a full turn out and flooded. I know I should have checked it first.

The local stihl shop doesn't sell the caps (or tool) separately.


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## matt9923 (Mar 1, 2010)

gemniii said:


> Where can one get replacement caps?
> The previous owner "trimmed" mine I think and now they seem to "walk".
> 
> The saw was running fine with the low set about 3/8 out (versus the start point of 1/4), but when I went to start it today after about 1/3 hour of sawing two days ago, it was over a full turn out and flooded. I know I should have checked it first.
> ...



Iv bought them, if you dealer cant order parts get a new dealer. 
you need the part #? what saw


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## gemniii (Mar 1, 2010)

matt9923 said:


> Iv bought them, if you dealer cant order parts get a new dealer.
> you need the part #? what saw


Thanks, yes I could use the part # for the 660. I was hoping to find someplace that sold them online, because I hate going to useless dealers. 
The one closest to me (about 5 minutes by car) is normally pretty good. I'd go to Thall10326, but he's about 90 to 120 minutes away, a long drive for a pair of caps.

But then I do want a 40" bar, and Bailey's no longer offers free shipping.

HMMM??


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## matt9923 (Mar 1, 2010)

cap- 4203 121 2700

tool- 5910 890 4500


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## Tzed250 (Mar 1, 2010)

Pictured are the:

Large outlet, dual port casing muffler (1122 140 0603)
Limiter caps (4203 121 2700)
Limiter cap puller (5910 890 4500)


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## climber17 (Mar 18, 2010)

*limiter removing tool*

how does the tool work? looks just like a punch or sawn screwdriver


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## matt9923 (Mar 18, 2010)

climber17 said:


> how does the tool work? looks just like a punch or sawn screwdriver



i think it has reverse threads.


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## Stihlverado (Mar 18, 2010)

Would those be the same part numbers for a ms 460? I pulled my caps off recently using the dry wall "technic", worked great! But was unaware of the screws walking, :jawdrop:


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## Tzed250 (Mar 18, 2010)

Stihlverado said:


> Would those be the same part numbers for a ms 460? I pulled my caps off recently using the dry wall "technic", worked great! But was unaware of the screws walking, :jawdrop:



Caps are the same. 


.


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## Anthony_Va. (May 24, 2010)

I must be missing something about pulling the caps. Are they no good anymore after you pull them? Have to get new ones? 

I've read everything, just can't figure it out for some reason.

I was thinking just turn them to line up the slot, pull them out and trim the tab, then shove them back in? Is there anything else?


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## Anthony_Va. (May 24, 2010)

And also, do you turn them all the way C-wise to pull them? or CCW? 

Is it the tab on the cap bumping against something that keeps you from turning them but so far? I figured it must be and that whay you remove the tab on the cap. Someone help me if I'm wrong, which I prolly am.


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## ffstreetdoc (May 30, 2010)

Anthony_Va. said:


> And also, do you turn them all the way C-wise to pull them? or CCW?
> 
> Is it the tab on the cap bumping against something that keeps you from turning them but so far? I figured it must be and that whay you remove the tab on the cap. Someone help me if I'm wrong, which I prolly am.




turn them all the way CCW, then use a pick or similar tool, they pull out alittle tight but will come out...


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## Trapper63 (Aug 16, 2011)

Ahhhh....A great thread. no need to be buried..Good info here. I've been cutting firewood for over 25 years but with stock saws. I'm glad to find all this in one thread. 
This is where this site shines.


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## xdmp22 (Aug 16, 2011)

The screw method works well

As far as them coming out, you have to turn them until the tab lines up with the open gap

Look into the gap and turn, when you see the tab. Pull and pull and wiggle and pull....

Then trim and file the tab down smooth. Put caps back in.

Only reason to replace them is if you fubar them with the screw


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## Naked Arborist (Aug 16, 2011)

Trapper63 said:


> Ahhhh....A great thread. no need to be buried..Good info here. I've been cutting firewood for over 25 years but with stock saws. I'm glad to find all this in one thread.
> This is where this site shines.


 
Hey all first post and I'm with the quote all the way...

With that said I have a 029 Super running a MS310 block. Those damn limiter caps are the SOB for my saw in weather changes. The saw always needs a slight tune from day to day. Here in Jersey the weather is always on the move temp and humidity. :msp_sad: I removed the limiter caps because the screws always walk out on me with or with out the caps new or used ones. I took the carb off and put a slight stake in the carb body next to the set screws with a very fine chisel to tighten them up to cure the "walk out" problem. I would not recommend doing this unless you have done some serious mods to carbs. I've been doing custom mods to just about every carb on this planet at on point or another. They never walk around now and it makes tuning the saw for any weather a breeze. Try it if you dare but be WARNED!, a little too much on the staking and you will lock the screws down or twist them off trying to tune it. Go easy, because you can always re-stake them if they walk around. Hope that helps you get rid of the caps forever!!!!


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## Trapper63 (Aug 17, 2011)

Welcome to the site Naked Arborist.Lots of good suff here.


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## paunchy (Sep 18, 2011)

I'm having a hell of a time getting one of the caps off of my MS460. I've been yanking it for at least 45 minutes now and have tried the drywall screw technique, the pick technique and the cry like a baby technique. The first one came out easy so I know how the internal tab _should_ line up but it's just not coming out. 

And Stihl / the EPA seems to have cracked down on the sale of the puller tool so it looks like I'll be looking for some left-hand thread screws with which to improvise one. 

The only other thing I've contemplated is trying to drill it out. I'm pretty sure this will remove a lot of the plastic but I'm worried that the barrel of the cap will still remain in place and then I'll have less material left to grab at. Thoughts anyone?


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## David (saltas) (Sep 18, 2011)

I cant see the photobucket pictures

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/173328.htm 
this thread relates to MS261 H limiter not sure how many newer stihls are like this


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## Philbert (Sep 5, 2013)

Still a helpful tip 3+ years later. Replaced a cylinder on a STIHL 046 with an aftermarket one and could not bring the high RPMs down.

Drywall screw worked simply, and I did not have to remove the carb.

Thanks guys.

Philbert


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## Bingo (Sep 5, 2013)

*Limiter caps*



gemniii said:


> Thanks, yes I could use the part # for the 660. I was hoping to find someplace that sold them online, because I hate going to useless dealers.
> The one closest to me (about 5 minutes by car) is normally pretty good. I'd go to Thall10326, but he's about 90 to 120 minutes away, a long drive for a pair of caps.
> 
> But then I do want a 40" bar, and Bailey's no longer offers free shipping.
> ...



Once the tabs were cut off my 310 carb and the red caps replaced they allowed no movement at all (but they should be re-installed). You shouldn't have to worry about those adjusters once you fix em...And unless you like playing w/the carb you shouldn't have to do anything on a daily basis. Though once done you can tune/re-tune w/a small screwdriver w/the caps in place. I quote your posting just to say that if Thall lived that close to me I'd take a 12-pack over and, if he was a mind, see if he could show me something about tuning and why, once set, you don't have to do it often...Once done it's pretty much done. Just keep an ear on it while cutting...you'll know when you need to re-tune...rarely...BTW the "caps" should cost pennies at a dealer. Oops...just saw that this was a rather old posting. Maybe the recent info will help someone finding it for the first time...


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## Thomas Venditto (Jan 9, 2017)

I've been at it for over 2 hrs! Can't get those screws/caps out. I have them backed out as far as they go. I can see the red tab in the notch but NO go!
I now have the carb out of the saw. I've tried the drywall screw, an easy out, a variety of medical picks and forceps, needle nose pliers and ZIP!. The right side comes out a mm or 2, the left won't budge.
I may have to go for the tool.
TomJV


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## Thomas Venditto (Jan 13, 2017)

Another hour or so at it and they came out. I wound up using a precision (Starrett City) compass and medical forceps. The plastic is pretty mangled, but they went back in and they work. Waiting on a muffler I ordered on EBay to mod out . . .


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## Rockjock (Jan 13, 2017)

Thomas Venditto said:


> Another hour or so at it and they came out. I wound up using a precision (Starrett City) compass and medical forceps. The plastic is pretty mangled, but they went back in and they work. Waiting on a muffler I ordered on EBay to mod out . . .



I have done quite a few with the stihl tool and most times I can reuse them in a pinch. They are not $$ from the dealer so always have some on hand.


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## president (Jan 13, 2017)

angelo c said:


> I have a question.
> If the limiter caps really cause the adjustments to not "walk around" does it really matter. I think if your going to use a saw you should need to be able to tune it almost as often as you adjust the chain. the fuel and conditions vary enough to support my thinking right?. I don't think setting mixture and Idle speeds is a "set and forget" thing. Kind of like chain sharpening I guess, something you need to learn how to do right eventually.


We have 4 defined seasons here and I adjust for each one and even humidity,and especialy
elevation .As with OP slight changes are a must


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## Wolf Bley (Feb 23, 2018)

There is a video showing what looks like a torx bit and left hand turning of the limiter. At the end the limiter just comes out. I have destroyed the limiter with dry wall screws and look forward to trying left hand removal in the future. wolf


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## ericm979 (Feb 23, 2018)

I did this yesterday. I used a tiny wood screw. It didn't take many turns to get it stuck enough so I could turn the screw CCW to get the tabs to line up with the slot and pull the limiter out. Not much damage o the limters, I put them back on after cutting the tabs.


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## Paul Hayes (Feb 7, 2019)

how do you remove the limit caps on a ms291 carby they are aluminium


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## HarleyT (Feb 7, 2019)

Look in here.


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## grizz55chev (Feb 7, 2019)

HarleyT said:


> Look in here.


Page 89.


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## HarleyT (Feb 7, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Page 89.


You don't expect me to read all of that chit, do you?????


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## holeycow (Feb 7, 2019)

I just turned the buggers until they snapped..aaahh, now my ms362 became fully adjustable. I inadvertently did the same with my ps420 previously. Those tabs snapped easily. 

2011 ms362; 2012? PS420.

My Echo was easier to do “properly”.


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## Termite52 (Jun 6, 2021)

Does anyone know if the STiHL Fs-130 r brush cutter carb have the red limiter caps on the adjustment screws.


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## DND 9000 (Jun 6, 2021)

It depends on the carb if they have limiter caps or not. These Zama limiter caps are black and not red like on some Walbro carburetors.


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## Termite52 (Jun 6, 2021)

DND 9000 said:


> It depends on the carb if they have limiter caps or not. These Zama limiter caps are black and not red like on some Walbro carburetors.


Thanks for the info.


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