# Brand of chuck and duck chipper? Woodchuck?



## nvr-enuf

Hello eveyone, I just purchased a tow behind wood chipper which unfortunately does not have a mfg tag on it. I would like to know the brand / model as well as any maintanence required. I believe it might be a 1986 woodchuck wc 12 based on internet searches. I will take some photos tomorrow, but for now I can try to list out the details:
- tow behind w/ pintle hitch
- rear fold down chute, original color was a light whiteish green. 2nd previous owner painted it a lovely camo color combo
- Powered by ford I6, I believe it is a 300 cubic inch. 
- has oil bath air filter on the passenger side of the machine
- has a blower with duct work on the driver side of the machine
- Frame is a channel iron
- has flag holders on left and right side
- has rear adjustable leg or post on the passenger side.
- has the ability to discharge on the passenger side instead of discharging forward
- Engine has a govenor with a pulley that runs off the engine with a chain going to where the ignition / guages are. what is weird is that the gauge panel has a hole with a slot so one can change the length of the chain which connects to the govenor so I am assuming this changes the max RPM

So far I changed the oil, plugs, wires, points, condensor, cap, rotor. 

There is two grease points near the lever which engages the clutch but I do not seen any grease fittings on the rear chipper, is this right? I would guess that the chipper / drum would need to be lubed as well. 

Thanks for any info or help on what i had bought. I can't wait to try it out. It needs a muffler, just a glasspack on it now, any suggestions? 

Based on a previous post, I already contacted altec for a wc12 manual. 

How do I know if I have a 12 or 16" drum? I have not flipped the chute back, but I am assuming once I do that i should be able to measure the drum diameter. If there is an easier way, please let me know. 

Thanks
SAS


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## nvr-enuf

*operating rpm*

I also forgot some basic questions:
- what is the wot (wide open throttle RPM) that I should set this machine up for?
- Does anyone know the inital and final ignition timing for a ford 300 ci engine?
-Also thanks to a previous post, I will check the govenor oil level tomorrow. 

SAS


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## CalTreeEquip

Here is a parts sheet that I put together for the 300 Ford.
Tune-up specs are included.

The blade length will be either 12" or 16".
I set the RPM's at 2000 to 2500, not more not less.
Start at 2000 and see how that works for you.
If the drum bearings have zerk fittings grease them, sometime they are sealed bearings though.
I have manuals so if you need one I'll send it free of charge.

WWW.CALIFORNIATREEEQUIPMENT.COM


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## CalTreeEquip

Are you now sure it's a Woodchuck?
Post a pic and I'll be about to tell.
I have other manuals as well.


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## nvr-enuf

*Brand / Model of chuck and duck wood chipper ?*

Below are the pictures of my unit, any help in the make & model would be appreciated. I believe it is a mid 80's unit based on ford casting numbers on the engine. I was raining this morning and I only had my cell phone, hopefully the pictures are clear enough.


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## CalTreeEquip

*yes it is.*

Yup, thats a woodchuck.
I'll send you a manual today.


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## 371groundie

i plugged one like that today. i gave it to big a peice of elm and stalled it. OOPS. 10 minutes and two wrenches had it running again after i cleared the plug and removed the remaining limbs from around the wheel.


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## nvr-enuf

I took off the belt guard & rotated back the chute, blades are 12", no zerks to be found so must be sealed bearings in the drum. 

Can't wait to be a real muffler on the unit as well as set the timing / wot rpm so I can start chipp'n. 

I looked at the govenor but I did not see a site plug. Can anyone explain which is the fill and drain plug on the govenor?

Also, the exhaust manifold has a heat riser on it which is not functional but I want to make sure it is set in the correct position so that it does not restrict the exhaust. Can someone explain or send a picture of the side of the heat riser / warm up flap at the end of the exhaust manifold so I can make sure mine is the in the correct position?

Thanks
SAS


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## CalTreeEquip

If the heat riser moves freely then it's fine, just ignore it.
The governor has 2 plugs on it's back side, one down low the other just an inch or two above it.
It's the top plug that that you fill to, use a detergent 30 wt motor oil.


WWW.CALIFORNIATREEEQUIPMENT.COM


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## nvr-enuf

*Woodchuck wc-12 chipper*

Thanks - the heat riser is really sticky therefore I was hoping to find the right position.

I may have to take off the exhaust pipe anyway to put on a decent muffler at which time I should be able to look up and verify the position of the heat riser plate. 

Thanks again for the response, I look forward to receiving the manual as well as using my new, agressive toy, hopefully my neighbors won't mind the noise.


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## tomtrees58

is that from the army tom trees


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## nvr-enuf

*Woodchuck wc-12 chipper*

No, guy in IL that likes to paint all of his equipment in Camo color. 

The looks is growing on me, looks pretty tough IMO.

I keep telling my neighbors that you can't even see it due to the camo colors, so far they are not buying my bs. I can bet they will hear it this weekend!


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## nvr-enuf

*wow, Talk about a chuck and duck*

Wow, that woodchuck was flipping amazing today. Ran great, just spits out chips, amazing how the trees just fly through the chipper.

The one word that should be plastered all over the machine is RESPECT!


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## hmg

*1978 Wood Chuck Chipper*

I think I have a 1978 wood chuck chipper. I have used it for years and now the blades are very dull.  I have removed the 4 allen head bolts that hold the blades to the drum but the blades are still stuck to the drum. Can anyone tell me where I can find a manual for this chipper or how to get the blades out?

Thanks,

hmg


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## CalTreeEquip

*answer*

If it has allen head bolts its not a Woodchuck.
Probably a Chipmore if it has 3 bolts for a 12" or 4 bolts for a 16" but no extractor bolt hole. If the is the case, you approach the blade wedge block from the side. You may have to remove the belt cowling to do this. You'll need a piece of steal that is just right to get in under the block where by beating on it will drive the block up and out. They can be pretty tuff some times so spend some time fashioning the right tool for this job. Try not to mar the block to bad.
If you post a picture of the drum I can tell you for sure.


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## hmg

The pics you ask for a pics of the whole machine are at this URL. If worse comes to worse, cop and past the url into your browser.

http://70.38.66.123/539/571149/1290116165-676.JPG.php

The four blades are 16 inches long with four allen head bolts in each blade.
I hope this helps, any information you can give me is more than what I know now.

Thanks a bunch,

hmg


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## CalTreeEquip

*Asplundh*

That's an Asplundh drum anyway, the rest of the chipper looks odd but maybe its a custom job. That 5th hole is a drive out hole. Pull the short allen bolt out of it and drive in one of the long allen bolts. The block should pop right out.


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## hmg

Thank you CalTreeEquip,

I will give it a try this weekend. Now I can get back to chipping!!!

hmg


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## a1stump

wc 12 woodchuck. I have one that is the exactly the same, except for the air filter is facing the tongue of the trailer. Mine is a 1994


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## Lucaskiley22

need help identifying my WC-12 I have no idea what year this machine is. It has a 4cylinder Ford 2.3L industrial engine.


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## rogert906

CalTreeEquip said:


> *Asplundh*
> 
> That's an Asplundh drum anyway, the rest of the chipper looks odd but maybe its a custom job. That 5th hole is a drive out hole. Pull the short allen bolt out of it and drive in one of the long allen bolts. The block should pop right out.


Good info on the Asplundh drum. But I've had a LOOOONG afternoon after running the long Allen bolt down all the , spraying both sides of the blade and pounding on the wedge bar. Ultimately I drove an appropriate sized chisel along side between wedge bar and drum and it popped free with a very satisfying metallic PING! 2 sides of the width and height of the blade is a lot of surface area to corrode and stick! A very thin film of neverseize ....barely visible amount on the blade surfaces will help, if it's along time between blade maintenance. All bolts need to be inspected and coated with neverseize.


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## Boo Peek

CalTreeEquip said:


> Here is a parts sheet that I put together for the 300 Ford.
> Tune-up specs are included.
> 
> The blade length will be either 12" or 16".
> I set the RPM's at 2000 to 2500, not more not less.
> Start at 2000 and see how that works for you.
> If the drum bearings have zerk fittings grease them, sometime they are sealed bearings though.
> I have manuals so if you need one I'll send it free of charge.
> 
> WWW.CALIFORNIATREEEQUIPMENT.COM


Hi CalTreeEquip - can you send me the manual for the WC12? I recently acquired a 1988 with the Ford engine and I need to start breaking it down and putting it back to work. Thanks!


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