# 42" bar on an 066?



## BIG JAKE (Apr 22, 2009)

I was getting my alaskan ready yesterday in prep for some 36-40" pine and doug's that are coming down on some private land my uncle owns, and noticed the rollernose is done on the 32" bar. The bottom shoulder of the chain is now riding on the nose rails and starting to wear the rails. So I was going in to the stihl dealer today to order a new nose and a 42" bar but wanted opinions. Dealer said 42s(41" I think he said) only come in 404 but I'd like to order just the bar and put a 3/8's nose on it. Question for you guys is with a 7 tooth rim will my 066 pull this in doug and pine? Subtract 4" off that and that's what it will be pulling. Also, I intend to slab alligator juniper with it also. Elevation around 8600'. I know it's upper limit for saw. Saw is in good shape stihl 150+ psi on compression.


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## BobL (Apr 22, 2009)

Sorry I don't know your timbers so can't make an experienced comment but my guess is you will be OK with an 066 and the 42" in that wood

I like roller nose bars, then you can go 3/8 or 404 anytime you like.

I have 
- roller noses for my 60" GB bar, (I run 3/8 chain on this) 
- 404 sprocket for my 60" Stihl bar - I want to switch that to a roller nose
- 3/8 sprockets for my GB 42's


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## mtngun (Apr 22, 2009)

I haven't tried a 42", but my somewhat tired 066 is merely adequate with a 36" bar in douglas fir at 4500 feet altitude. Could it use more power ? You bet.

The nice thing about a 42" is that it lets you fully utilize the typical 36" Alaskan mill.

Like I say, I haven't tried it, but I'm guessing the combination of 42" bar and 8600 feet altitude will have your saw panting and sweating. An 880 would sure be nice, but then again, we have guys on this forum who mill with a 290. It can be done, it just takes longer and is hard on the saw.

Well, if you have some big trees to cut, you gotta do what you gotta do. Let us know how it works out. And post some pictures.


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## BlueRider (Apr 22, 2009)

for years I milled with an 89cc 051 pulling a 42" bar with an 8 pin. I do most of my milling within 1000' of sea level so the elevation thing and the higher torque of the 051 should come close the the 7 pin combo you plan on running on the higher rpm 066. 

Bob- Juniper is a bit harder than macrocarpa but very similar in every other way, even the smell.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 22, 2009)

BobL said:


> Sorry I don't know your timbers so can't make an experienced comment but my guess is you will be OK with an 066 and the 42" in that wood
> 
> I like roller nose bars, then you can go 3/8 or 404 anytime you like.
> 
> ...



Wow-3/8's on a 60 eh? Okay well I know it'll hold up (3/8's)on the 42 what with yer dry and assume hard aussie woods-good. thks for the input Bob by the way if you have any quick and dirty aux oiler ideas let me know I think I'll need one. I'll make a nice one when i have time. I have Stihl's austrailian version oil pump it cranks out more oil then the reg pump but I don't think will cut it. 



mtngun said:


> The nice thing about a 42" is that it lets you fully utilize the typical 36" Alaskan mill.
> 
> Like I say, I haven't tried it, but I'm guessing the combination of 42" bar and 8600 feet altitude will have your saw panting and sweating.



Yeah altitude it cuts performance quite a bit-I may crank out a dual port muffler cover to help it breathe a little better. Yes the 088 would be nice but I can't justify that right now. I'll just be slicing the logs up into cants for the ripsaw. I'll post some pics and hopefully learn how to make them display instead of having to click on each one. Should be in a few weeks.



BlueRider said:


> for years I milled with an 89cc 051 pulling a 42" bar with an 8 pin. I do most of my milling within 1000' of sea level so the elevation thing and the higher torque of the 051 should come close the the 7 pin combo you plan on running on the higher rpm 066.
> 
> Bob- Juniper is a bit harder than macrocarpa but very similar in every other way, even the smell.



I have an 8 pin also but I don't think it'll pull that with the bar buried. I put that on with smaller logs when I feel like it but mostly run the 7 pinner

thks for the input fellers :greenchainsaw:


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## Ironbark (Apr 22, 2009)

I have a Cannon 41" bar that I use with a 660 and it's fine. Only use a 7T.

I didn't know Stihl made a 42/41" bar to fit the 660. I thought they only made one for the large Stihl mount.


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## BobL (Apr 22, 2009)

BIG JAKE said:


> Wow-3/8's on a 60 eh? Okay well I know it'll hold up (3/8's)on the 42 what with yer dry and assume hard aussie woods-good. thks for the input Bob by the way if you have any quick and dirty aux oiler ideas let me know I think I'll need one. I'll make a nice one when i have time. I have Stihl's austrailian version oil pump it cranks out more oil then the reg pump but I don't think will cut it. :



The quickest and dirtiest Aux oiler I have seen is a plastic pint oil bottle gaffer taped to the outboard upright. The quickest and dirtiest I have made is this one out of Plastic garden irrigation fittings.






Details here.


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## Backwood (Apr 22, 2009)

My saw is a 394 which I think is about the same size as your 066 ? Today I was cutting white oak with a 42" bar and it cut fine. Was even using the whole bar, the tree was more than 42". I am a little less than 300' above sea level though.


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## oldsaw (Apr 22, 2009)

Milled many thousand board feet of 30+ oak and walnut with that combo. Don't tell my 066 it doesn't work.

Mark


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## mtngun (Apr 22, 2009)

My point was that altitude makes a difference. The saw doesn't get as much oxygen. Power is way down.

A rule of thumb, courtesy of Mr. Google, is that an engine will lose 3% of its power for every 1000 feet in altitude. 

At my 4500 foot altitude, power is down 13%. My 066 acts like a 79cc saw. Yeah, you can mill with a 79cc saw, but it isn't anything to brag about.

At Big Jake's 8600 feet, power is down 26%. Jake's 066 will act like a 68cc saw ..... with a 42 inch bar.

But what's a guy going to do about it ? Big Jake's got logs to mill. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do. And post pictures.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 23, 2009)

Ironbark said:


> I have a Cannon 41" bar that I use with a 660 and it's fine. Only use a 7T.
> 
> I didn't know Stihl made a 42/41" bar to fit the 660. I thought they only made one for the large Stihl mount.



They do according to dealer but 404 only. I'll have to order bar and 3/8" nose separate apparently



BobL said:


> The quickest and dirtiest Aux oiler I have seen is a plastic pint oil bottle gaffer taped to the outboard upright. The quickest and dirtiest I have made is this one out of Plastic garden irrigation fittings.



Bob I moved question over to the milling sticky figuring better place for specific info there. Thought occurred to me as we go thru that thread to post alot of info on that subject i.e. oil reservoirs before moving on in attempt to consolidate subjects. Just a thought. Nice pic-thks



oldsaw said:


> Milled many thousand board feet of 30+ oak and walnut with that combo. Don't tell my 066 it doesn't work.
> 
> Mark



I'll just have to tough it out at a slower rate/higher altitude. Time for dual port muffler cover-should bump it up a notch. I can make one in an hour or two.



mtngun said:


> My point was that altitude makes a difference. The saw doesn't get as much oxygen. Power is way down.
> 
> A rule of thumb, courtesy of Mr. Google, is that an engine will lose 3% of its power for every 1000 feet in altitude.
> 
> ...



Yep-it do make a difference.


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## glennschumann (Apr 23, 2009)

*42" and oil*

BigJake,

For what it is worth, I run my 066/ 42" bar with the standard oiler, and it is fine. The biggest problems I've had is that sometimes (rarely) the oiler hole gets filled with the fine dust you generate from milling, and the oil ends up being pumped out between the bar and case, spilling out onto the bar... pooling up, and being drawn back into the bar when it reaches the spinning chain. If you really want to go budget on an aux oiler, find an old Tecumseh snowblower engine... the ones about 15 to 20 years old have a nice rectangular gas tank, (with mounting bracket) that is easy to remove, and they even have a fuel shut off valve in the fuel line that you can use to control flow. They usually have a screen filter in them too.

Oh, and for what it is worth part two, I use an old 1 gallon gas can with a flexible spout for my oil container... it is too hard to pour from the gallon oil jug into the saw with the mill attached... nice and easy with the gas can, however.

Hope that helps.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 29, 2009)

glennschumann said:


> BigJake,
> 
> For what it is worth, I run my 066/ 42" bar with the standard oiler, and it is fine. The biggest problems I've had is that sometimes (rarely) the oiler hole gets filled with the fine dust you generate from milling, and the oil ends up being pumped out between the bar and case, spilling out onto the bar... pooling up, and being drawn back into the bar when it reaches the spinning chain. If you really want to go budget on an aux oiler, find an old Tecumseh snowblower engine... the ones about 15 to 20 years old have a nice rectangular gas tank, (with mounting bracket) that is easy to remove, and they even have a fuel shut off valve in the fuel line that you can use to control flow. They usually have a screen filter in them too.
> 
> ...



Good tip thanks


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 29, 2009)

Ironbark said:


> I have a Cannon 41" bar that I use with a 660 and it's fine. Only use a 7T.
> 
> I didn't know Stihl made a 42/41" bar to fit the 660. I thought they only made one for the large Stihl mount.



You can get 404 .063 in 42" for 066 stihl small bar mount but I need 3/8'' nose. Dealer said you can't order these separately and I don't need another .404 tip.


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## excess650 (Apr 29, 2009)

BIG JAKE said:


> You can get 404 .063 in 42" for 066 stihl small bar mount but I need 3/8'' nose. Dealer said you can't order these separately and I don't need another .404 tip.



If you can't get what you want from Stihl, order an Oregon Powermatch from Bailey's http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORPM+42+SS63&catID=700

or a Woodland Pro (Cannon) http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BAWP+42+SS63&catID=664

and get milling chain or semi-chisel at the same time.

The longest that I have for my 066s/660 is 36". I may bite the bullet and buy a 42" for my 3120.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 29, 2009)

excess650 said:


> If you can't get what you want from Stihl, order an Oregon Powermatch from Bailey's http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORPM+42+SS63&catID=700
> 
> or a Woodland Pro (Cannon) http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BAWP+42+SS63&catID=664
> 
> ...



If you've run both bars what do you think of the WP/Cannon bars? We don't have big hardwoods here for most part. I think my saw will pull this bar in softwoods full comp. I was looking at the new 880's they go for close to 1900.00 I could approach two new 660's for that price. For what I'm doing 660 is probably all I'd need most of the time. We do have alligator juniper in the 48" plus class up to 60/70'' I want to make a single slab table out of. I'll need an 880 for those. I could freehand slab one and see how table turns out-(snap a chalkline)/whether I want to do more. One of those unknowns where I may not want to do any more after the first one. Every saw I buy now is to fill a specific need. I'll hold off on that for now.


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## woodsrunner (Apr 29, 2009)

*Fwiw*

I run a 42 inch Oregon Power Match on my 395. Got it from Baileys. Its 3/8 pitch 0.063 gauge. Not very expensive at all compared to the WP bars and has worked well for me. I have been getting my ripping chain to match from them as well. I know its not apples to apples and my elavation here in Florida and at "home" in Kentucky is very different but my 395 pulls the 42 fine. Hope this helps a little.
Scott


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 29, 2009)

woodsrunner said:


> I run a 42 inch Oregon Power Match on my 395. Got it from Baileys. Its 3/8 pitch 0.063 gauge. Not very expensive at all compared to the WP bars and has worked well for me. I have been getting my ripping chain to match from them as well. I know its not apples to apples and my elavation here in Florida and at "home" in Kentucky is very different but my 395 pulls the 42 fine. Hope this helps a little.
> Scott



Was wondering why they were quite a bit pricier I didn't know they were Cannon they're said to be very good bars. I haven't heard any complaints on the Oregon bars either. Currently I only own the Stihl bars and been happy-stick with what works but not in this case. Guess it'll be the power match.


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## BobL (Apr 29, 2009)

Another alternative is to buy a bar for the bigger mount and use a bar adapter to fit the 660. I buy all my bars above 30" in the bigger mount format.

The other brand of bar worth considering is GB. I'm fining they are equally as good as the stihl bars.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 30, 2009)

BobL said:


> Another alternative is to buy a bar for the bigger mount and use a bar adapter to fit the 660. I buy all my bars above 30" in the bigger mount format.
> 
> The other brand of bar worth considering is GB. I'm fining they are equally as good as the stihl bars.



Tried to order a GB titanium last year-stayed on backorder for about 3 months so I gave up. I don't believe Baileys sells them anymore. Trouble with the Stihl bars is you can't order them with a 3/8'' nose at 42" otherwise I would have no problem with adapter. Bad move on Stihl's part they are losing money there.


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## Backwood (Apr 30, 2009)

I just got a 42"GB bar recently, been running a 36" Oregon bar. The GB bar seems a lot less flimsy.


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## BlueRider (Apr 30, 2009)

I have a 42" woodsman pro bar that I bought back in the mid 90's, same look and lettering style as the current woodland pro bars. It had beed a fery good bar for me with substantialy less flex that the cannon roller tip bar it replaced. It has also had less wear than the rollomatic bar on my 038M or even the newer oregon power match bar for my 038M.

An option to a $1900 880 would be a used 075. it will out cut an 066 and almost keep up with an 880 and cost less than a used 066.


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## BIG JAKE (Apr 30, 2009)

Good info fellers on the bars. I'd try a GB but again the availability not reliable. The Woodland Pro bars I understand are made by Cannon and 170.00
a piece. I don't want flimsy or wear issues. If I have a job in a few weeks I'm leaning towards pulling the trigger on a WP bar. 075, hmmm. Parts availability? I heard they still made either 075 or 076 for other countries(south america) so parts are still available. Might be an option I don't need a purdy new saw just a good reliable hog I can rack up time on.


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## BobL (Apr 30, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> I have a 42" woodsman pro bar that I bought back in the mid 90's, same look and lettering style as the current woodland pro bars. It had beed a fery good bar for me with substantialy less flex that the cannon roller tip bar it replaced. It has also had less wear than the rollomatic bar on my 038M or even the newer oregon power match bar for my 038M.
> 
> An option to a $1900 880 would be a used 075. it will out cut an 066 and almost keep up with an 880 and cost less than a used 066.



I have only cut 3 slabs with the new 880 and it feels like it's cutting faster than my 076 but only timed cuts will tell what that difference really is. If everything else is equal it could come down to the rpm that each saw can hold in the cut. If that is so the 880 appears it can hold 15-20 % higher rpm in a 30" wide cuts in a relatively soft hardwood than the 076 - whether that translates into real cutting speed is yet to be determined.
 
The one thing I am really liking is to be able to refuel the 880 while it's on its side


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## BIG JAKE (May 1, 2009)

BobL said:


> I have only cut 3 slabs with the new 880 and it feels like it's cutting faster than my 076 but only timed cuts will tell what that difference really is. If everything else is equal it could come down to the rpm that each saw can hold in the cut. If that is so the 880 appears it can hold 15-20 % higher rpm in a 30" wide cuts in a relatively soft hardwood than the 076 - whether that translates into real cutting speed is yet to be determined.
> 
> The one thing I am really liking is to be able to refuel the 880 while it's on its side



Backing the saw out of the kerf after running out of gas and re-wedging to do so sounds like no fun. I have to do the same thing with the ripsaw no wedges at least. Which one has bigger tank capacity(goes farther)?


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## BobL (May 1, 2009)

BIG JAKE said:


> Backing the saw out of the kerf after running out of gas and re-wedging to do so sounds like no fun. I have to do the same thing with the ripsaw no wedges at least.



It sounds bad but on a 40" diameter log I would only probably do that for the middle 3 or 4 slabs, the rest would be done in one pass. If I have access to a forklift I will sometimes cut the big middle big slab at 4" and then split that one down the middle and mill resaw those as they are the true 1/4 sawn pieces from the log.



> Which one has bigger tank capacity(goes farther)?


the 076 is 900 mL and the 880 is 1300 mL. The 880 uses more fuel but not the 40% more difference in the fuel tank size.


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## BlueRider (May 1, 2009)

The 075 and 051 are esentialy the same saw with the size of the bore being the only difference. Some early 075's didn't have a manual oiler and 051's have never had a manual oiler but other than that the saws are the same with most of the parts being inter changeable. The cases are not interchangeable because the jug on the 051 is held on by 5mm bolts and the 075 has 6mm studs even though the rest of the case is esintialy the same. (I did convert an 051 to an 075 by drilling and retaping for the 6mm studs)

there are two different sizes of fuel tank available for the 075 one is 900ml and the other is 1200ml. I have run out of fuel mid cut and it is possable to refule without having to remove the saw. however you will not be able to fill the tanl to max capacity. Hard to say if the slower turning more fuel efficient 075 with a 100ml smaller tank will cut the same per tank as an 880, another test for Bob.(my guess is that the 880 will cut more per tank but not by a lot)


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## BobL (May 1, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> there are two different sizes of fuel tank available for the 075 one is 900ml and the other is 1200ml. I have run out of fuel mid cut and it is possable to refule without having to remove the saw. however you will not be able to fill the tanl to max capacity. Hard to say if the slower turning more fuel efficient 075 with a 100ml smaller tank will cut the same per tank as an 880, another test for Bob.(my guess is that the 880 will cut more per tank but not by a lot)



I just went and measured my 076 and it is the 1200mL - in that case I'd say they are going to come out pretty even.


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## BIG JAKE (May 1, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> The 075 and 051 are esentialy the same saw with the size of the bore being the only difference. Some early 075's didn't have a manual oiler and 051's have never had a manual oiler but other than that the saws are the same with most of the parts being inter changeable. The cases are not interchangeable because the jug on the 051 is held on by 5mm bolts and the 075 has 6mm studs even though the rest of the case is esintialy the same. (I did convert an 051 to an 075 by drilling and retaping for the 6mm studs)
> 
> there are two different sizes of fuel tank available for the 075 one is 900ml and the other is 1200ml. I have run out of fuel mid cut and it is possable to refule without having to remove the saw. however you will not be able to fill the tanl to max capacity. Hard to say if the slower turning more fuel efficient 075 with a 100ml smaller tank will cut the same per tank as an 880, another test for Bob.(my guess is that the 880 will cut more per tank but not by a lot)





BobL said:


> I just went and measured my 076 and it is the 1200mL - in that case I'd say they are going to come out pretty even.



I'll have to file away this info(memory you know)-didn't know there were such differences. opcorn: Would've rep'd you Bob for measuring that but out of bullets-thks for taking the time. thks blue good to have you fellers around


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## BIG JAKE (May 31, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> The 075 and 051 are esentialy the same saw with the size of the bore being the only difference. Some early 075's didn't have a manual oiler and 051's have never had a manual oiler but other than that the saws are the same with most of the parts being inter changeable. The cases are not interchangeable because the jug on the 051 is held on by 5mm bolts and the 075 has 6mm studs even though the rest of the case is esintialy the same. (I did convert an 051 to an 075 by drilling and retaping for the 6mm studs)
> 
> there are two different sizes of fuel tank available for the 075 one is 900ml and the other is 1200ml. I have run out of fuel mid cut and it is possable to refule without having to remove the saw. however you will not be able to fill the tanl to max capacity. Hard to say if the slower turning more fuel efficient 075 with a 100ml smaller tank will cut the same per tank as an 880, another test for Bob.(my guess is that the 880 will cut more per tank but not by a lot)



What are the differences between the 075 and 076 as far as parts go? Any preference between the two for milling?


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## BlueRider (May 31, 2009)

BIG JAKE said:


> What are the differences between the 075 and 076 as far as parts go? Any preference between the two for milling?



Some of the early 075's may not have a manual oiler but all of the later 075's and all 076's have manual oilers.

the TS760, which is the cut off saw version of the 076 had a taller carb block with a larger intake port as well as an exhaust with a larger port. When I was ordering some parts it was a bit cconfusing but there were two different carb bloks available for the 076 and possibly only one for the 075. the person who would know is harrygrey382, he is from UK and hangs around here and on the chainsaw forum. I believe he has ipl's for the 051/075/076 and some manuals to boot.


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## woodsrunner (May 31, 2009)

BlueRider, 
can the powerhead from a ts760 be converted to use as a milling powerhead? (If you could figure out how to get around the oiler issue.)

Scott


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## BIG JAKE (Jun 1, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> Some of the early 075's may not have a manual oiler but all of the later 075's and all 076's have manual oilers.
> 
> the TS760, which is the cut off saw version of the 076 had a taller carb block with a larger intake port as well as an exhaust with a larger port. When I was ordering some parts it was a bit cconfusing but there were two different carb bloks available for the 076 and possibly only one for the 075. the person who would know is harrygrey382, he is from UK and hangs around here and on the chainsaw forum. I believe he has ipl's for the 051/075/076 and some manuals to boot.



Having never worked on any of those saws I don't know a thing. An 076 should be able to find one reasonable since the only thing they're good for is milling. I'll ask Harry.



woodsrunner said:


> BlueRider,
> can the powerhead from a ts760 be converted to use as a milling powerhead? (If you could figure out how to get around the oiler issue.)
> 
> Scott



Scott-there are some NOS 076 crankcase assy's on ebay right now with no hits. Might be able to build one if you have a ts-would need to round up oilers, etc. though.


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## BlueRider (Jun 2, 2009)

woodsrunner said:


> BlueRider,
> can the powerhead from a ts760 be converted to use as a milling powerhead? (If you could figure out how to get around the oiler issue.)
> 
> Scott



Most Ts760's were used to cut concrete, a very dusty job. The saws were equiped from the factory with a large tripple air filtration system. Many of the type of emloyees who used these saws would not know the proper maintainance of these saws, I have seen more than one with the airfilter replaced by a N95 dust mask. What I am trying to say is that used Ts760's tend to be toast with very few usable parts.

A good condition Ts760 could be converted to a milling saw. You would need all the parts for the oil pickup/oil pump including the oil cap and manual oiler parts if you want a manual oiler. You will also need a clutch drum and pin sprocket and a side cover along with some log spikes. The muffler on the Ts760 does not have a spark arrester so that will also need to be addressed. 

I picked up a Ts760 for a parts saw and used the carb block, muffler and the air box in an 051 to 075 conversion I did. I used the case from the 051 because the one on the Ts760 had concrete dust coating the inside and the bearings were toast. I was able to rebuild the carb to have it on hand as a spare but that is about it. The coil is different and wont fit on my 051 due to the wire coming out the side rather than the top and creating a clearance issue with the tank/case.


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## BIG JAKE (Jun 3, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> Most Ts760's were used to cut concrete, a very dusty job. The saws were equiped from the factory with a large tripple air filtration system. Many of the type of emloyees who used these saws would not know the proper maintainance of these saws, I have seen more than one with the airfilter replaced by a N95 dust mask. What I am trying to say is that used Ts760's tend to be toast with very few usable parts.
> 
> A good condition Ts760 could be converted to a milling saw. You would need all the parts for the oil pickup/oil pump including the oil cap and manual oiler parts if you want a manual oiler. You will also need a clutch drum and pin sprocket and a side cover along with some log spikes. The muffler on the Ts760 does not have a spark arrester so that will also need to be addressed.
> 
> I picked up a Ts760 for a parts saw and used the carb block, muffler and the air box in an 051 to 075 conversion I did. I used the case from the 051 because the one on the Ts760 had concrete dust coating the inside and the bearings were toast. I was able to rebuild the carb to have it on hand as a spare but that is about it. The coil is different and wont fit on my 051 due to the wire coming out the side rather than the top and creating a clearance issue with the tank/case.



Pretty handy guy there BR. I was up milling in the mountains yesterday and used the Ripsaw to mill some douglas fir. I had to mill it into cants first with the 066. At 92CC it did really well on 18" logs. It was slow going so I didn't get to the big 36" logs. If I put a big bore kit on my 066 that would make it 100CC-I wonder how that setup would compare to the 076/880's? I had as much fun slabbing with the chainsaw mill as I did with the Ripsaw(surprised me). In otherwords I'm hooked-hard work but lots of fun.


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## woodsrunner (Jun 3, 2009)

Thanks for the comments BlueRider.

Scott


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## Brmorgan (Jul 4, 2009)

BlueRider said:


> Most Ts760's were used to cut concrete, a very dusty job. The saws were equiped from the factory with a large tripple air filtration system. Many of the type of emloyees who used these saws would not know the proper maintainance of these saws, I have seen more than one with the airfilter replaced by a N95 dust mask. What I am trying to say is that used Ts760's tend to be toast with very few usable parts.
> 
> A good condition Ts760 could be converted to a milling saw. You would need all the parts for the oil pickup/oil pump including the oil cap and manual oiler parts if you want a manual oiler. You will also need a clutch drum and pin sprocket and a side cover along with some log spikes. The muffler on the Ts760 does not have a spark arrester so that will also need to be addressed.
> 
> I picked up a Ts760 for a parts saw and used the carb block, muffler and the air box in an 051 to 075 conversion I did. I used the case from the 051 because the one on the Ts760 had concrete dust coating the inside and the bearings were toast. I was able to rebuild the carb to have it on hand as a spare but that is about it. The coil is different and wont fit on my 051 due to the wire coming out the side rather than the top and creating a clearance issue with the tank/case.



Good to know, I may have a line on a very affordable "older" TS760, waiting to see pictures to know if it's worth it.


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## BlueRider (Jul 5, 2009)

I forgot to mention that many Ts760's used for concrete have an atachement for a water hose to control the dust/cool the blade. The result is that after the saw is used up many of the bolts are frozen up pretty tight. When looking at one of these saws from pics figure that only half of what looks good will actually be usable and you won't get burned.


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## Brmorgan (Jul 6, 2009)

Well, after looking into it more closely, it appears it's impossible since the TS760's crankcase (at least the clutch side half) is totally different than the 076 and cannot accommodate the oiler mechanism. Something about the oil reservoir space being used to control exhaust gases to prevent a spark igniting unburned fuel in the exhaust. I'd still like to see one of each side-by-side, but I trust the experience of those who told me that.


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## ShoerFast (Jul 6, 2009)

BIG JAKE said:


> Tried to order a GB titanium last year-stayed on backorder for about 3 months so I gave up. I don't believe Baileys sells them anymore. Trouble with the Stihl bars is you can't order them with a 3/8'' nose at 42" otherwise I would have no problem with adapter. Bad move on Stihl's part they are losing money there.




It's my bet that Stihl is staying well into a safety margin here. 

Product Liability is the reason they wont put a 3/8th nose on a 42" bar?

As it would seem to have a lot higher chance of shooting a chunk of chain after brakeing one.


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## BobL (Jul 6, 2009)

ShoerFast said:


> It's my bet that Stihl is staying well into a safety margin here.
> 
> Product Liability is the reason they wont put a 3/8th nose on a 42" bar?
> 
> As it would seem to have a lot higher chance of shooting a chunk of chain after brakeing one.



This is less problems in a mill where the bar and chain a buried 95% of the time.


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