# What size grinding wheel?



## alderman (Jul 14, 2006)

Just suppose a fella decides to use a grinder that he happened to pick up very cheap from Harbor Freight even if he knows that hand filing is best. Is there a site that shows what size grinding wheel to use with different size chains? I'm just curious. I'm not planning on using it or anything.


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## sawinredneck (Jul 14, 2006)

alderman said:


> Just suppose a fella decides to use a grinder that he happened to pick up very cheap from Harbor Freight even if he knows that hand filing is best. Is there a site that shows what size grinding wheel to use with different size chains? I'm just curious. I'm not planning on using it or anything.




I am a neophye at this to say the least, but I just adjust the grinder to barely cut the teeth on whatever chain I have in it at the time. I am curiuos as to the proper answer though, may have been doing it wrong for years and didn't even know it:bang: 
Andy


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## LarryTheCableGuy (Jul 14, 2006)

I just might be curious too. You know, just because...

.


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## sawinredneck (Jul 14, 2006)

LarryTheCableGuy said:


> I just might be curious too. You know, just because...
> 
> .




YEP.......................


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## pallis (Jul 14, 2006)

Whenever Y'all figure it out, let me know. Now I want some black wheels and blue wheels, white wheels and checkered wheels, if they make them. This $29 grinder could get expensive.:help:


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## Patrick62 (Jul 14, 2006)

alderman said:


> Just suppose a fella decides to use a grinder that he happened to pick up very cheap from Harbor Freight even if he knows that hand filing is best. Is there a site that shows what size grinding wheel to use with different size chains? I'm just curious. I'm not planning on using it or anything.



1/8 inch wheels on 1/4, .325, 3/8 low profile chains.

3/16 for 3/8 and .404 chains.

I spooged this info straight from Bailey's website.

little wheels for little chains, bigger wheels for bigger chains.

Oh, and a real grinder for better results.  I just had to stick that jab in there. Sorry,

-Pat


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## alderman (Jul 14, 2006)

*Thanks for the info*

Pat:

Thanks for the info on the wheels. I was expecting somebody to have some fun with this one but Rule 12 must be working.opcorn:


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## Fish (Jul 14, 2006)

The wheel size is not as critical as with files, as the cutting angle is formed
against the side of the wheel, while with hand filing, you need to keep an
eye on the finished angle as you go back, as the file is round, and the 
cutter gets lower, and the cutting angle made by the file changes a lot
over time.


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## turnkey4099 (Jul 15, 2006)

Just finished setting up mine. Had a problem with the locking mechanism on he chain clamp. It wouldn't tighten down. Took it apart a couple times, repositioned the lever on the cogs but it would only turn a 1/4 turn and stop. Kept fooling with it and after taking it apart again, it worked. I still can't understand why it was locking up before goin full throw. Neat little adjustment on it after I found out how it works. Just pull out on the lever and shift back or forth a notch or two. 

I mounted mine on a support post in the shop. Put it at breast hieght for easy use. Looks like it should work better there than bolted to a bench top (too low).

Wheels? The one that came with it says good for 1/4 or 3/8. That is all I will ever use and I probably don't have that many years of cutting left in me so that one wheel should outlast me.

Tomorrow comes the test. Seems I must have hit dirt on Wed as on my last cut with the 041, 24" bar in a 32" log it decided to cut in a curve and then only by forcing it it. Tomorrow I try sharping it on the HF grinder.

Harry K


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## KMB (Jul 15, 2006)

turnkey4099 said:


> Just finished setting up mine. Had a problem with the locking mechanism on he chain clamp. It wouldn't tighten down. Took it apart a couple times, repositioned the lever on the cogs but it would only turn a 1/4 turn and stop. Kept fooling with it and after taking it apart again, it worked. I still can't understand why it was locking up before goin full throw. Neat little adjustment on it after I found out how it works. Just pull out on the lever and shift back or forth a notch or two.
> 
> I mounted mine on a support post in the shop. Put it at breast hieght for easy use. Looks like it should work better there than bolted to a bench top (too low).
> 
> ...



Please let us know how it goes. I'll be in town tomorrow and I'm thinking of getting me one of those HF grinders.

Kevin


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## turnkey4099 (Jul 16, 2006)

KMB said:


> Please let us know how it goes. I'll be in town tomorrow and I'm thinking of getting me one of those HF grinders.
> 
> Kevin



Didn't get at it today. Temps at 90, had to mow grass, did a bit of wood splitting and decided the boob tube and cold beer was in order. Hoping to do the sharp job tomorrow but then won't be trying the job out for several days, or weeks, if this heat wave keeps up. 

I will be satisfied if it just does an 'adequate' job. That will beat what I can do anymore by hand filing and I was paying $8 to get chains sharped at the now closed shop in town. Worst case is that that $29 tool plus $7 ship ain't gonna break the bank and will pay for itself after 5 chains. Seeing I have 5 to be done...

Harry K


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## slipknot (Sep 14, 2006)

I gave in to the hb speacial and I am new to grinding.
Where else can you get the grinding wheels? HF only sells 1/8" wheels.
I need 3/16" to do .375 chain. What about those grinding wheels for that bar mounted grinder that bailey's sells? They are 7/8" arbor and slightly over 4" in diameter, will they work?

To get one thing strait... is it not that critical on wheel width when doing different chains?(.375, .325, .365) Will the 1/8" wheel serve as a do all wheel?
Also whats dressing the wheel all about and is it necessary for this grinder?opcorn:


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## Justsaws (Sep 14, 2006)

If you want a chain that will cut then you can use an 1/8" wheel to do all sizes. You could also use a 41/2 angle grinder with a 1/8 cutoff wheel. Been there done that, desperate measures caused by a really bad day. If you are careful and pay attention to angles that H.F. grinder should do just fine with the wheel it came with. I do not think you will ever get a screaming fast chain out of it though. Take small bites and you may have to beak the chain for speed. Also make sure that the chain is positioned to remove the same amount of metal from both sides of cutters and that it does so at the same relative position to the cutter. A lot of people set it up very well for one side and not the other and end up with a chain that cuts circles. :monkey:

Those little grinders are popular. A lot of people buy them get frustrated and do not use them. Then again I do not think they were sharpening their chains to begin with. "Once a season" is the quote of the day.:angry2: 

$8.00 a loop, wow. That better be a big loop. A new 20" 3/8 loop can be had for $10-12.00. If I was to have my chain sharpened at the local shops prices range from $2.50 to $4.00. The cheaper being the better job. I just do not like the angles they use or the wait involved.


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## Justsaws (Sep 14, 2006)

"To get one thing strait... is it not that critical on wheel width when doing different chains?(.375, .325, .365) Will the 1/8" wheel serve as a do all wheel?
Also whats dressing the wheel all about and is it necessary for this grinder?opcorn:[/QUOTE]


It is easier to do a good job with the proper sized wheel. It is not absolutely necessary. You may end up needing to file the gullets.


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## sawinredneck (Sep 14, 2006)

I agree, I finally gave in and bought my own, been using my dads, I can sharpen all of my chains with the one wheel, just be carefull, I also try to file what I can, use the grinder for the rocked out chains, the file them in. Seems to work out fine. Figure I was paying $5 a loop per grinding, $5 in gas each way, 2-4 day wait, doesn't take long to make up the $50 for the grinder and grind when you can!! I also try and have at least three chains for each saw.
Andy


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## nate cutter (Sep 14, 2006)

good idea


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## Haywire Haywood (Sep 14, 2006)

Mine had some end play in the motor, which translated to the wheel moving in and out. Made it impossible to get a consistant grind. I took the end cap off the motor and shimmed it to eliminate the end play. The little link stop wasn't spaced right either, would work well for one side, but wouldn't catch the tooth on the other. Simple shim job too care of that too. I just got the correct 3/16 wheel in from Bailey's yesterday. Too bad I have both 325 and 375 chain. Looks like I'll be changing wheels when I change chains. Easy enough tho.

Ian


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## 314epw (Sep 14, 2006)

*cheap sharpener*

*Hate to say it, but I've been using this sharpener for 3 years.Have no problems.I get $5.00 per chain and have sharpened over $300.00 worth.People keep coming back,so I guess they like it!Just take small bites and do the depth gauges properly.
Ed*


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## Justsaws (Sep 14, 2006)

314epw said:


> *Hate to say it, but I've been using this sharpener for 3 years.Have no problems.I get $5.00 per chain and have sharpened over $300.00 worth.People keep coming back,so I guess they like it!Just take small bites and do the depth gauges properly.
> Ed*



Good to hear that it is working for you, all I ever hear about it is complaints or whining. How many chains does the wheel last? How much are replacements? Where do you get wheels? I do not personally own one but I might soon. I am using an old Foley Belsaw and would like to have another for "fixing up" the buckets of used chain I get before I slap them on the FB. Equalizing cutters and such or at least to get them within an 1/16".  It amazes me how out of whack some peoples chain get. Do not get me started on depth guages as I just got 3 loops with the DGs completely dremmeled off. :censored: I got them because they needed to be sharpened as thet will not stay mounted.:monkey:


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## 314epw (Sep 15, 2006)

*wheels*

*I just got 2 wheels from HF $16.47 to the door.Wheel will last about 50 chains.Of course this depends on how bad the chains are wacked!*


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## amdburner (Sep 22, 2006)

Hi all! I am a newbie here, although I have been lurking around for a couple of weeks. I just mounted my new HF grinder to the bench tonight and gave it a rip. Right off I noticed that the 1/8" wheel is too narrow for my 
3/8 chain. All in all though it appears that it will work fine once I get a wider wheel. The past 2 weeks have been something as I now have my first new saw a Husky 455 Rancher ( no ribbing please!), and I scored a Granberg MKII Alaskan mill on ebay as well. My other saw is a ProMac 10-10 which was giving me fits thus the new saw. I have since straightened out the 10-10's issue. Sorry for going off topic a little just wanted to chime in.


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## Urbicide (Sep 22, 2006)

Welcome to AS, amdburner. Are you going to run that mill on the 455?


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## amdburner (Sep 23, 2006)

Urbicide, I will be using a Jonsered 920 I picked up on ebay as well. I use the 455 for my firewood. Even with all the negatives I read here about it I have found it more than capable for my needs. The 10-10 was killer on my hands not having any vibration dampening whatsoever. The 920 should be in my possession next week. My plan is to use the 920 exclusively on the mill. I also picked up one of the inexpensive "lumber makers" that clamp to the bar. I picked it up on HF for 12.99 when I ordered the grinder. If it works even remotley decent I figured I would mount it to the 10-10 and use it to square the sides of the logs rather than mess around with the Alaskan to do it. I will make the initial top cut with the Alaskan then cut the two sides with the other setup then cut the planks with the Alaskan.


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## amdburner (Sep 23, 2006)

I picked up a 3/16" Oregon grinding wheel for my HF grinder today. It looks like I will have to learn how to dress the wheel to the proper shape. Being perfectly square it cuts a wicked hook into the cutter. Is there a reason for these wheels to not have a more correct profile to begin with? Also, any suggestions on properly dressing this wheel?


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## 314epw (Sep 24, 2006)

*square*

*Wheels are left square because you use the square wheel to do the depth guages.In real life I don't think anyone does it!Just lower your wheel a couple thousanthes and have at it.Drag the chain through the guide and your done.This is not the proper way to do it,but I betya this is mostly how it's done.*


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## amdburner (Sep 28, 2006)

I was finally able to dress my 3/16" wheel last night and give the HF grinder a try. After tweaking the profile and testing the grind on an old chain I went to town on the rocked out chain from my Husky 455. I will give it a try tonight after work to see how it cuts but from the looks it should do pretty well. I would have to say that I am pleased overall with how the grinder works.

Dave


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