# Bandsaw Mill



## L Wagner (Sep 4, 2006)

Hello!

I just found this site, registered and am making my first post. I have been a woodworker for a number of years now and recently became interested in making lumber out of logs. So I made the next move and went out and bought a bandsaw mill. The unit is on a trailer and can handle up to a 21" Diameter by 12 ft. long log. I have milled about 5-600 BF of ash, oak, maple and walnut so far and have gone through a few blades.(mostly from my own carelessness or imbedded steel) I will be looking forward to learning more about my new found hobby from you experts out there. 

Thanks for being here!

Larry


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## flht01 (Sep 4, 2006)

Welcome aboard , Larry. I think your'e going to like it here. What kind of mill you running?

Kevin


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## woodshop (Sep 4, 2006)

Welcome to the forum Larry, and welcome fellow woodworker who wants to get lumber for the woodshop the "easy" way, as I too started milling lumber for that very reason. What kind of woodworking do you do, what do you make? What kind of bandmill did you get? Got any pics of it? I got myself a cheapo $90 metal detector, the kind used for coins etc, and it has paid for itself many times over finding tramp metal in logs before I toasted a bandsaw blade in my Ripsaw, or ripped into it with my alaskan mill. You might want to invest in one of those.


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## dustytools (Sep 4, 2006)

Welcome Larry, Youll find lots of good advice from these guys in here.


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## CaseyForrest (Sep 4, 2006)

Welcome, get out your waders, it does get deep in here sometimes.


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## Adkpk (Sep 4, 2006)

*team member*

I'm on the AS milling team, welcome, L. I have an alaskan mill and look forward to reading about your experiences.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 4, 2006)

Howdy!


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## L Wagner (Sep 5, 2006)

Thanks for the welcome from everyone.

My sawmill is from a small shop in mid northern Arkansas. The brand name is Mr. Sawmill. After month's of searching I found it to be the best bang for my buck. So far I'm enjoying this too much! As a woodworker I like being able to cut and prepare just the right piece for the job at hand. As for woodworking, I like several areas, including making small boxes(turned and dovetail type), small cabinets, some furniture, etc. I'm really looking forward to learning from everyone.

Thanks again for the welcome!

Larry   

PS: By the way, if I'm slow at seeing a post or answering one, it's because I usually only get to look at the sight at noon at work or in the evenings after I come in from the shop.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 5, 2006)

L Wagner said:


> PS: By the way, if I'm slow at seeing a post or answering one, it's because I usually only get to look at the sight at noon at work or in the evenings after I come in from the shop.



In other words you are saying you have a real job. Sometimes it seems a lot of us here don't.


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## woodshop (Sep 5, 2006)

L Wagner said:


> PS: By the way, if I'm slow at seeing a post or answering one, it's because I usually only get to look at the sight at noon at work or in the evenings after I come in from the shop.



 hey no worries... many of us don't necesarilly jump on here EVERY day, sometimes I'm out of town, and don't always have access to a computer.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 5, 2006)

woodshop said:


> hey no worries... many of us don't necesarilly jump on here EVERY day, sometimes I'm out of town, and don't always have access to a computer.



Only on days that end in "Y".


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## L Wagner (Sep 5, 2006)

Yes, unfortunately I have a real job, but only have about 2 1/2 years and I can spend all my time either making lumber or making things from that lumber.
Several ask for pictures and I do have some and as soon as my wife shows me how to get them into the computer and I can figure out how to post them I will. Hopefully within a week! 

In reading some of the post I see most of you have some sort of chainsaw mill. I am interested in them also but, being old and I'm told decrepit I figured the bandsaw mill to be easier. I really hope to learn how to read logs so as to get the best looking grain structure from them. So far most is just flat sawed. I'm sure all of you will answer a lot of questions for me.

Larry


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## olyman (Sep 7, 2006)

cant wait to see the pics of " mr.sawmill--have heard about them--and the price!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!post them pics--and tell us more about the mill--interested---


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## L Wagner (Sep 8, 2006)

Olyman

Hopefully over the weekend I'll get some better pictures than I have already(they aren't very good)and will post them along with some of lumber if someone will tell me how. As for the sawmill, I really like it. Other than the blade problems(self induced) it has performed flawlessly. I got more for my money than any other manufacturer could offer and Joe and Mike are really great to deal with.

Larry


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## daemon2525 (Sep 8, 2006)

Welcome to the forum, from an (almost) neighbor.

Larry, Fort Wayne, IN


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 8, 2006)

Sounds to me like you have a real nice bandmill, it's always great when a person buys something, and then is happy with there purchase!! I'm looking foreward to seeing some pictures of it too!!!

Rob

my sawmill picts. http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744


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## carvinmark (Sep 9, 2006)

Hello, welcome to AS. We are all in training here so we are open to ideas.
Mark


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## Andy Harden (Sep 13, 2006)

*Sawyer Rob I am new to this site and have just looked at your Mill pictures. They are great. I will upload my pictures and post a link so you can see my mill.

*


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 13, 2006)

Andy,

I'm looking foreward to seeing them,

Rob


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## olyman (Sep 15, 2006)

wheres the pics--this thread is useless without pics!!!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:


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## Adkpk (Sep 15, 2006)

woodshop said:


> hey no worries... many of us don't necesarilly jump on here EVERY day, sometimes I'm out of town, and don't always have access to a computer.




What town, arborist town? Dave that's why you got to get a blackberry.:rockn:


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## stihlatit (Sep 15, 2006)

Welcome aboard Larry......Enjoy.


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## Andy Harden (Sep 16, 2006)

*Rob, Here are some of the pictures. I'll post more of them as soon as I shrink them.

http://groups.msn.com/AndysLumberMill/millpictures.msnw?Page=1

Andy*


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 16, 2006)

Nice Logmaster, Andy. Looks new a lot newer than the one I use. What model is it? I see you have the fancy computer, too. Do you mill full or part time?


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## Andy Harden (Sep 16, 2006)

*Aggiewoodbutcher, It is a new mill. I bought it last year and picked it up at the end of May this year. They have a six month lead time. It is a LM3 with the cat diesel option. I retired at the end of May from the USAF and am cutting full-time. Word is getting out that I am cutting full-time. It is keeping me very busy. I just finished a job where I cut 9,000 bd ft of Oak with a couple Pines thrown in the mix.*


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## L Wagner (Sep 17, 2006)

*Bandmill*

Andy

I'm jealous. That machine is so much bigger than mine, but I'm too old & weak to handle the size logs you are. Good luck on your logging/lumber business. We need more people turning our trees into lumber rather than firewood.

Larry


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## Andy Harden (Sep 17, 2006)

*Larry, The mill will handle a 36inch 24 foot long log. I figured out a way to cut a beam 33 ft long with it. I'll post some pictures on the site listed above of that adventure. What kind and size of mill do you run? *


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 17, 2006)

Andy,

Nice picts. thanks for posting the addy to them! I always enjoy seeing other sawyers equipment and logs!!! Nice mill, Perkins powered too....nice..

I sawed red oak this last week. Nothing huge, but a few of them were decent.







Hopefully the weather will stay decent so i can finish up the pile of logs i'm working on!!

There's always so much to do around here that i can't saw as much as i'd like...

Rob


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## manual (Sep 17, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *Aggiewoodbutcher, It is a new mill. I bought it last year and picked it up at the end of May this year. They have a six month lead time. It is a LM3 with the cat diesel option. I retired at the end of May from the USAF and am cutting full-time. Word is getting out that I am cutting full-time. It is keeping me very busy. I just finished a job where I cut 9,000 bd ft of Oak with a couple Pines thrown in the mix.*



Nice MIll I had the LM6 with edger both ran by Cats.
Herman droped them off nice guy. I like the set works. sence the scale was off and too small to read. the set works did all the work.
Did you ever check out anything from Cooks?


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## Andy Harden (Sep 17, 2006)

*Manual, Yes I looked at Cooks, TimberKing, Woodmiser and several others but it looked like I get more bang for the buck with the LM.*


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## jerseywild (Sep 17, 2006)

*Woodmizer*

Anybody using a woodmizer mill? What brands are you running and do you think you made the right decision? What do you like about your mill and what would you change? I would like to get a small mill so I can mill some of my better logs. Not looking for production just want to mill now and then. 
Thanks


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## L Wagner (Sep 18, 2006)

Andy 

There are a couple of pictures of my mill on a previous post, titled, "A couple of pics of the mill". It is a Mr. Sawmill brand and it can cut a 21" log 12 ft. long. Thats about all this old man figured he could handle. It is manual and very affordable, at least for my bank account. I'm basically a hobbiest at it and do some smaller logs for friends. I also am in the process of setting up a solar mill that will handle about 800 BF per loading. I will sell a little and use most myself with the hobby & craft business my wife & I are planning. We mill mostly Red Oak, White Oak, Maple(hard & soft), cherry, and walnut and ash.

Jerseywild

I just couldn't see myself spending as much money for several of the bandmills out there and getting less than what I got. My Mr. Sawmill has performed admirably so far and it is simple enough that I can purchase any needed part locally. If there is a drawback, it is that Timberwolf does not want to sell me blades, because of the 16" wheels. I've been told they might break. I've been using Munkforsager blades and have yet to have one break. However, I personally have destroyed one or two as steel in a log will do and what happens when you try to back up while cutting. All part of my learning curve. I have been able to run 10-12' a very uniform 1/8" thick on reds oak.

Larry


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Sep 18, 2006)

jerseywild said:


> Anybody using a woodmizer mill? What brands are you running and do you think you made the right decision? What do you like about your mill and what would you change? I would like to get a small mill so I can mill some of my better logs. Not looking for production just want to mill now and then.
> Thanks



I've used an older LT25 quite a bit. Woodmizer makes a good product but some people don't care for it's cantilever design. I didn't notice any problems caused by it and it actually has a few advantages over a tunnel design. If you are milling a log that's at the size limits of the mill, the open side can be helpful.


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## manual (Sep 18, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *Manual, Yes I looked at Cooks, TimberKing, Woodmiser and several others but it looked like I get more bang for the buck with the LM.*




Well looks like Herman Changed that grade scale and is using an arrow instead of a oval hole to look through. Might help.
Theres alot to be said about that board return. Might want to look at cooks to get an better Idea on how to make it work. What would help is fingers hanging on the back rail to keep the board from sliding sideways also an higher wall going up by the controls. Also the inside of tires on my mill was worn out when herman got here from texas. of course your mill is lighter then the LM6.


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## Andy Harden (Sep 18, 2006)

I've used an older LT25 quite a bit. Woodmizer makes a good product but some people don't care for it's cantilever design. I didn't notice any problems caused by it and it actually has a few advantages over a tunnel design. If you are milling a log that's at the size limits of the mill, the open side can be helpful.



*I keep a chainsaw close to the mill for just that reason. Knots are a killer when you can pass only 36" inches thru the "tunnel". *


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## Andy Harden (Sep 18, 2006)

manual said:


> Well looks like Herman Changed that grade scale and is using an arrow instead of a oval hole to look through. Might help.
> Theres alot to be said about that board return. Might want to look at cooks to get an better Idea on how to make it work. What would help is fingers hanging on the back rail to keep the board from sliding sideways also an higher wall going up by the controls. Also the inside of tires on my mill was worn out when herman got here from texas. of course your mill is lighter then the LM6.



*I think Ed is the one that made the change. They are using a hydrostatic transmission on the LM6 instead of a hydraulic motor. Yes the board return needs some improvement. I keep it strapped to the saw carriage. It gives me a better view and I don't use it any way. The LM3 is 6500 hundred lbs and the LM6 is 8000 lbs. That is a BIG difference. Why did you sell the LM6? It cut both directions and has PLENTY of hp,*


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## manual (Sep 18, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *I think Ed is the one that made the change. They are using a hydrostatic transmission on the LM6 instead of a hydraulic motor. Yes the board return needs some improvement. I keep it strapped to the saw carriage. It gives me a better view and I don't use it any way. The LM3 is 6500 hundred lbs and the LM6 is 8000 lbs. That is a BIG difference. Why did you sell the LM6? It cut both directions and has PLENTY of hp,*



Both directions on a 2" blade. well I thought that was a good I deal too.
I asked Ed at that it what other guys are doing about the blade staying on because of no way of keeping it on like the single edge blade guide wheels.
He said He did not know it was too new to find out? Of course he told me this after I bought it
Lets just say a 4'' wide would be better. (If only there was a lemon law on bandmills).
I got screwed around by a crooked broker when herman droped the mill off the broker said it took too long to make the mill and he would have to refile all my loans. went form 60k to 98k yea right.
To this day herman has not even written me a receipt for the down payment. that I gave him to start building the mill and edger.
Then when I started having problem with the set works and many other things. Like the Edger catching on fire.
I was told to sign the papers for the (bogus loans) then Log Master would back up there work. In the mean time the mill could not run properly and I was falling behind daily. Total Nightmare.
Anyway I have some Ideas on how to make that board return work.
First thing take that mass of metal right off you can't see the blade go into the wood anyway. plus you don't want that to fall down on your return.
Set works lifts the blade and resets for return but I found it faster to just bump the blade up with the lever and then return. Minutes count.
One thing I learned is that sawyers like helping other Sawyers.
Also the Idler pulley for the blade lift lower one by the dust chute will plug up with packed sawdust. I scraped it out with a blade. Get the paint off the dog sliders too. they work better. keep a wire brush handy for the band wheels to get all the packed dust off.


Watch your front dogs. with big logs. Blades don't go through dogs.


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## Andy Harden (Sep 18, 2006)

manual said:


> Both directions on a 2" blade. well I thought that was a good I deal too.
> I asked Ed at that it what other guys are doing about the blade staying on because of no way of keeping it on like the single edge blade guide wheels.
> He said He did not know it was too new to find out? Of course he told me this after I bought it
> Lets just say a 4'' wide would be better. (If only there was a lemon law on bandmills).
> ...




*I found all about the front dog the hard way. That blade makes a LOT of noise when it comes apart. I had that lower pulley clog with dust just like you did. I dug it out, got some WD40 and sprayed it on generously. I do this about 2-3 times a day. That stops the problem with the dust build up.I use the same grease on the front dog/turner slide that I use on the bearings. It makes the slide work most of the day with no other problems. Just after I got home with it (Iwent to Texas and picked it up)The main bearing that runs the main drive wheel froze up and snapped a blade. They sent me a new one but could not spare a person to install it. I did receive some instructions and got it going.
Do you have any slop in the guide arm? I took mine off and drilled a 1/2 in hole in the underside. Tapped it and installed an adjuster bolt to tighten it up.*


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## Sawyer Rob (Sep 18, 2006)

Yes i've sawn with Mizers... With the exception of there LT10 i think they have pretty good products, but there are others just as good, and in most cases, for less $$ too...

My sawmill is a Norwood Lumbermate 2000, and it has a bigger capacity than the comparable Mizer (LT15) plus the Lumbermate cost less. Norwood is an excelent company and has great products... I'm very happy with my mill, as are hundreds of others who buy them.

For less money, Norwood sells a smaller model called the Lumberlite 24, and the owners of them are happy with their sawmills too. They saw quite well, i've sawn on one myself...

Don't take my word for it, go to Norwoodindustries website and ask owners of the mills at the town hall forums there... There's hundreds of owners that meet there that will be happy to answer your questions.

BTW, Norwood has an 800 number where you can order a free DVD on there products....

Rob


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## manual (Sep 19, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *I found all about the front dog the hard way. That blade makes a LOT of noise when it comes apart. I had that lower pulley clog with dust just like you did. I dug it out, got some WD40 and sprayed it on generously. I do this about 2-3 times a day. That stops the problem with the dust build up.I use the same grease on the front dog/turner slide that I use on the bearings. It makes the slide work most of the day with no other problems. Just after I got home with it (Iwent to Texas and picked it up)The main bearing that runs the main drive wheel froze up and snapped a blade. They sent me a new one but could not spare a person to install it. I did receive some instructions and got it going.
> Do you have any slop in the guide arm? I took mine off and drilled a 1/2 in hole in the underside. Tapped it and installed an adjuster bolt to tighten it up.*


 I Had the band wheel Idler wheel bearing blow apart on me.
I went from grade oak 1,800 brd ft a day. To hard maple and no where near that type of brd ft. the whole mill was shaking. I call and ask what to do and they said that it was me and I will get better. well after breaking four blades 
and 1 week of fustration the bearing let loose and the wheel fell off.
1st off do not put 3000 lbs of pressure on your blades lower it.
Herman called me one day and said that timkin bearings will not stand by there bearings with that kind of load. Thats after he told me to do so.
Also I Highly recommend you call timberwolf and get one of there blades 
you will need four for the day as you already know.
Also BUY the video called Maximizing the use of your set tooth Band mill blades. this will show you how to set your blades up right.
there web site is www.Suffolkmachinery.com. Art is a great guy and will talk to you about your mill.
Next I recommend to get ahold of cooks again and ask for there free product books.
Lots and lots of informathion added in there for bandsaw mills.
Look at there guide wheels and find away to install them on your mill.
also look at the way they put the fluid on the blade. goes on both sides with wipers.
You never side if you sharpen your blades.
if you are did you buy the wright auto sharpener. if not take a good at the Cooks cat claw.


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## Andy Harden (Sep 19, 2006)

manual said:


> I Had the band wheel Idler wheel bearing blow apart on me.
> I went from grade oak 1,800 brd ft a day. To hard maple and no where near that type of brd ft. the whole mill was shaking. I call and ask what to do and they said that it was me and I will get better. well after breaking four blades
> and 1 week of fustration the bearing let loose and the wheel fell off.
> 1st off do not put 3000 lbs of pressure on your blades lower it.
> ...



*They have changed the bearings in the driven wheel, I think. Herman still says to run 4000-5000 lbs of pressure on the band. I'll try it at 3000 and see what that will do. I also got one of the Dino auto setters to maintain the set.*


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## manual (Sep 20, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *They have changed the bearings in the driven wheel, I think. Herman still says to run 4000-5000 lbs of pressure on the band. I'll try it at 3000 and see what that will do. I also got one of the Dino auto setters to maintain the set.*




4,000 -5,000 ? Well he built the Mill but not the Blades. Some mill manufacturers will tell you to "over" tighten the blades makes there mill look good. 
Proper way to set tension is called the flutter test. First remove to guide wheels run your mill and look at the band is it fluttering. ( up and down). probably not at 4000 lbs. now with hydro tension like you have . shut the mill down start at 2000 lbs (band should flutter) when you have wheels turning at idle speed. now apply pressure slowly intill you see flutter go away. Stop. Now put guides in adjust guides level with blade. some sawers angle guides down a hair into cut. some level it out.
Also if your guide wheels have any flat spots or chips in them you may want to get a new face on them a machine shop can touch them up for you .Talk to Art (CEO) about blade set up at Timber wolf It's toll free. What he will tell you pertains to all band blades.
Too much blade streach will cause faster blade fatigue. 
Art will even send you a free booklet about his blades the info in that booklet is priceless.


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## Andy Harden (Oct 2, 2006)

manual said:


> 4,000 -5,000 ? Well he built the Mill but not the Blades. Some mill manufacturers will tell you to "over" tighten the blades makes there mill look good.
> Proper way to set tension is called the flutter test. First remove to guide wheels run your mill and look at the band is it fluttering. ( up and down). probably not at 4000 lbs. now with hydro tension like you have . shut the mill down start at 2000 lbs (band should flutter) when you have wheels turning at idle speed. now apply pressure slowly intill you see flutter go away. Stop. Now put guides in adjust guides level with blade. some sawers angle guides down a hair into cut. some level it out.
> Also if your guide wheels have any flat spots or chips in them you may want to get a new face on them a machine shop can touch them up for you .Talk to Art (CEO) about blade set up at Timber wolf It's toll free. What he will tell you pertains to all band blades.
> Too much blade streach will cause faster blade fatigue.
> Art will even send you a free booklet about his blades the info in that booklet is priceless.



*Manual, I did as you said. Art is a really knowledgeable person. I got some 1.5 inch .056" blades, reduced the tension to 2000 lbs and increased the head rig speed. I am getting some really good cuts. Thanks for the heads up.
*


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## manual (Oct 9, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *Manual, I did as you said. Art is a really knowledgeable person. I got some 1.5 inch .056" blades, reduced the tension to 2000 lbs and increased the head rig speed. I am getting some really good cuts. Thanks for the heads up.
> *


 Thanks for a open ear.
Timber wolf blades are a great blade..Now trying to get the same profile of the gullet is the key to speed. Keep the same depth.
Winter time is a whole new learning process, as the temp drops and the wood freezes. slow down your feed rate, you would make the gullet smaller. reason being the each gullet creates a whirl wind effect. for dust removal and also cooling. In freezing weather the moisture in the wood freezes fast in the gullet and starts to build up. You can decrease the freezing process but you cant stop it.
You would also decreases the hook angle a degree at a time untill you find a happy spot. the set should also be decreased Same way. Once your set freezes you lost the battle stop.
Angle set is also a key factor in bandmills. 
Lets take a pine log. You say your blade is .056" and you have been cutting oak with a blade set at .020" giving you a .096" kerf. Now you slap that pine log on your mill and the boards start to wave out on you.
So you slow down the feed rate. No joy. still getting waves.
You will have to increase the set angle up to .025 try .023 first. and the waves will go away.
Pine produces larger dust grains and fills the gullet faster.
Now take that blade with a .020" set and slap a hard wood maple log on your deck and your boards start to wave out on you.
You will have to decrease the set down to .015" try .018" first also decrease the hook angle a bit hard wood cuts slower.

Funny how all this goes through your mind all day as you make lumber.


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## stihlatit (Oct 9, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *Rob, Here are some of the pictures. I'll post more of them as soon as I shrink them.
> 
> http://groups.msn.com/AndysLumberMill/millpictures.msnw?Page=1
> 
> Andy*



Nice pics and logmaster Andy.....I enjoyed the view....excellent.


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## manual (Oct 20, 2006)

Here you go Andy hows that for production grade wood milling. thats a 36" oak I just slaped up on the deck. Look at all them scants piled to the sky.
Had to stop because the slab wood bunk was full. Edger is on the other side along with my tractor and grade boards.


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## Andy Harden (Oct 20, 2006)

manual said:


> Here you go Andy hows that for production grade wood milling. thats a 36" oak I just slaped up on the deck. Look at all them scants piled to the sky.
> Had to stop because the slab wood bunk was full. Edger is on the other side along with my tractor and grade boards.



*That is a NICE wood lot. It looks like that LM is doing you a good job. I am working with an arborist and have not done much with the mill in the last couple of days. The benefit of this arrangement is I get payed and the trees we take down are free. 

One of my customers brought me a 38 inch red oak 10 ft long to make bar tops out of. I slabbed it down and threw it on the mill. It made several 2.5 inch by 29.5 inch "boards". It looks like you are making cross ties. How do you get into that business? By the way, I can pass a 36 inch log through the tunnel but can only cut 30.5 between the gide rollers. What is different on your mill?*


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## manual (Oct 20, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *That is a NICE wood lot. It looks like that LM is doing you a good job. I am working with an arborist and have not done much with the mill in the last couple of days. The benefit of this arrangement is I get payed and the trees we take down are free.
> 
> One of my customers brought me a 38 inch red oak 10 ft long to make bar tops out of. I slabbed it down and threw it on the mill. It made several 2.5 inch by 29.5 inch "boards". It looks like you are making cross ties. How do you get into that business? By the way, I can pass a 36 inch log through the tunnel but can only cut 30.5 between the gide rollers. What is different on your mill?*




Those are 3.5, 5.5 and 9 inch scants That is what is left over after I took the grade wood off.
3.5 and 5.5 random widths scants go to pallets shops down state, the 9.5 by 11" scants go for rail road ties. 
The grade wood is cut at 4/4, and the edged, "NO wide boards" they warp and crack to easy. Also better to edge them into two boards. it's all in the grading game.
The edger can make you money or you can loose a lot of money, there is a lot to learn about how to edge a board properly. anyone can square a board off.
Anyone can mill wood too. Flat board cutting is a lot differnt then pulling grade wood off a log. You are constantly turning the log looking for the best grade. and working the knots to the outside. You may just get one board then have to turn the log.
Never cutting threw the heart. or "pift" that would count as a "out" all that board would be good for is firewood. Maple is another story that board could be used for flooring because you would only need one clean side. 
The pift drys faster the the rest of the board and it will pull away from the board.
How do you do a 36" log. Easy take your slab board on a 10 foot log try to open her up with a 5" face showing.then try taking a board or two. Then turn it. on a log that size just go 90 degrees. Smaller log I may turn 180 degrees. I have found that I can get more board foot of grade if I turn 180 Degrees then 90 degrees on your first turn. all depends on the lay out of the Knots.


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## Andy Harden (Oct 26, 2006)

manual said:


> Those are 3.5, 5.5 and 9 inch scants That is what is left over after I took the grade wood off.
> 3.5 and 5.5 random widths scants go to pallets shops down state, the 9.5 by 11" scants go for rail road ties.
> The grade wood is cut at 4/4, and the edged, "NO wide boards" they warp and crack to easy. Also better to edge them into two boards. it's all in the grading game.
> The edger can make you money or you can loose a lot of money, there is a lot to learn about how to edge a board properly. anyone can square a board off.
> ...



*OK, I understand about the slab. I managed to get some special ordered 29.5 inch wide "boards" off of the mill. I talked to Ed at LM and got him to send me the guide rollers for 1.5 inch band blade. How much pressure are you running on the hydraulic gage? I ran 3000 lbs and shattered a timber wolf blade. Any less and it waves.*


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## Sawyer Rob (Oct 26, 2006)

Hey Andy,

I saw the write up in oct/nov Sawmill & Woodlot magazine on the LM2? It looks like a nice mill. Sounds like a pretty good deal too, as they sell for less than the "high priced spread"...  

Rob


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## Andy Harden (Oct 26, 2006)

Sawyer Rob said:


> Hey Andy,
> 
> I saw the write up in oct/nov Sawmill & Woodlot magazine on the LM2? It looks like a nice mill. Sounds like a pretty good deal too, as they sell for less than the "high priced spread"...
> 
> Rob



*Rob, They have the best bang for the buck. There are some mills I like a lot better but sell for over $80,000. I started with a LM2 but wanted more power and a diesel. The next step was the LM3. Then I wanted the computer option. Well let me say I don't know how a person gets accurate cuts with a pointer. That computer rocks!:rockn: *


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## The WoodButcher (Oct 26, 2006)

*Howdy*



L Wagner said:


> Hello!
> 
> I just found this site, registered and am making my first post. I have been a woodworker for a number of years now and recently became interested in making lumber out of logs. So I made the next move and went out and bought a bandsaw mill. The unit is on a trailer and can handle up to a 21" Diameter by 12 ft. long log. I have milled about 5-600 BF of ash, oak, maple and walnut so far and have gone through a few blades.(mostly from my own carelessness or imbedded steel) I will be looking forward to learning more about my new found hobby from you experts out there.
> 
> ...


How ya doin? What kind of mill is it??


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## manual (Oct 30, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> *OK, I understand about the slab. I managed to get some special ordered 29.5 inch wide "boards" off of the mill. I talked to Ed at LM and got him to send me the guide rollers for 1.5 inch band blade. How much pressure are you running on the hydraulic gage? I ran 3000 lbs and shattered a timber wolf blade. Any less and it waves.*




Your in the ball park, Any less you get waves, Ok, It's all about fine tuning now.

Did you get the video from Timber Wolf when you ordered your blades ?
Did the blade that broke. was it new or did you sharpen it when it broke.
If so did you also grind the gullet depth. because you have to to get the micro cracks out. those micro cracks always appear when you use your blade. Due to stretch. Are you changing out your blade every two hours ?
These are some areas you need to question yourself on premature blade breakage.
Waves,
Some areas are two much feed pressure, Blade set is a big one too. Also band wheels not running true, Guide wheels not level with cut. 
Lets start with these issues.
Most likely it will be blade set on waves.


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## Andy Harden (Nov 1, 2006)

manual said:


> Your in the ball park, Any less you get waves, Ok, It's all about fine tuning now.
> 
> Did you get the video from Timber Wolf when you ordered your blades ?
> Did the blade that broke. was it new or did you sharpen it when it broke.
> ...




*Yes I got the video and DVD. They are most informative. Tom sent me a cam from a mighty mite sharpener that fits my Wright sharpener. The cam matches the profile on the 52 thousands blade so I get a perfect grind in the gullet. I called an talked to Art explaining exactly what happened. What I did not post was the size of the log and it's age, the fact that it had internal cracks that could not be seen from the outside. As the blade exited the log the internal stress from the crack pinched the blade to the extent it almost stalled the little cat diesel. I have checked the guide arm for level. When I installed the new rollers I checked them for level and 1/2 inch deflection of the blade. More to follow as soon as the weather brakes.*


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## manual (Nov 5, 2006)

Gide rollers level and a half inch deflection. sounds good. when it comes to milling logs "sizes matters" there are formulas for blade sets in different diameter logs. Thats where a 2 inch blade is more versatile, other then that factor I would recommend anybody to use 1 and a half inch blade. 
Now you are using .052 thickness I would think that they are stout enough to handle the max diameter logs you can mill.
a split will break blades. Cut parallel with the crack get as much lumber as you can and forget the rest or block the bad part off and make more lumber.

Would like to hear more on your progress.


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## Andy Harden (Dec 5, 2006)

manual said:


> Gide rollers level and a half inch deflection. sounds good. when it comes to milling logs "sizes matters" there are formulas for blade sets in different diameter logs. Thats where a 2 inch blade is more versatile, other then that factor I would recommend anybody to use 1 and a half inch blade.
> Now you are using .052 thickness I would think that they are stout enough to handle the max diameter logs you can mill.
> a split will break blades. Cut parallel with the crack get as much lumber as you can and forget the rest or block the bad part off and make more lumber.
> 
> Would like to hear more on your progress.



I am still trying out different blades. I just got some bi-metal blades. They cut longer between sharpening. They cost a lot more also. Here is a link to some pictures of the mill.

http://groups.msn.com/AndysLumberMill/shoebox.msnw


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## Adkpk (Dec 5, 2006)

Andy Harden said:


> I am still trying out different blades. I just got some bi-metal blades. They cut longer between sharpening. They cost a lot more also. Here is a link to some pictures of the mill.


Sorry Andy, don't see the link.


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## Andy Harden (Dec 5, 2006)

Adrpk said:


> Sorry Andy, don't see the link.



Sorry about that. It's fixed now.


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## 046 (Dec 5, 2006)

nice mill!


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