# Replacing br 600 crank seals



## fishingdave (Feb 27, 2016)

Do you have to split the motor apart to replace the seals or can you pry them out and tap new ones in?


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## DND 9000 (Feb 28, 2016)

Hi

It is not necessary to disassemble the engine to replace the oil seals. Use puller 5910 890 4400 with No. 3.1 jaws and pull out the oil seal. Do that on both (starter and fanwheel) site. For installing the new ones (flywheel site) use press sleeve 1108 893 2405 to press home the oil seal until it is in place. On the fanwheel site, first slip the installing sleeve 1118 893 4602 over the end of the crankshaft. After that use press sleeve 1108 893 2405 to press home the oil seal. Before installing the new oil seals, put some grease on the sealing lips of the new ones.


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## fishingdave (Feb 28, 2016)

Cant I just pop it out with a screw driver?


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## DND 9000 (Feb 28, 2016)

Maybe, but I think there is a risk to slip and scratch the crankshaft. I have seen pictures in the past where a screw was screwed in the oil seal and after that it was pulled with a suitable plier. But I would be very careful with that, because the bearings may be damaged if you are not careful enough.


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## backhoelover (Mar 1, 2016)

i would used a l angle pick. they are rubber seals so they are not as hard to remove as the brass one. but the way dnd9000 stated is the proper way he is right on the money. there is not a better way then what he stated. here is the service manual. you need to check the bearings. they are know for going out pretty quick with bad crank seals. i have seen this dozen of times


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## fishingdave (Mar 1, 2016)

Thanks!


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## ktoom (Mar 24, 2016)

I have 2 br600 that have leaking crank cases. For some reason, I cant get the case to seal up after applying new sealant. Ive torn the motor down 5 times trying to get the motor to seal. Everytime I go to test the crank case, it hold vacuum for a minute and then it starts to drop. Ive sealed many cases before, but this one is giving me a hard time.


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

I don't use Stihl seals I get my from a local supplier


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

Leaking at crank shaft ot sump housing


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

I have fix 100s of these unit we will figure it out


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

You can u a little around out part of seal at sump housing


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

Can I get me a pic


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

U


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## ktoom (Mar 24, 2016)

Are you supposed to use semi-hardening sealant or something that hardens fully? I ran out of yamabond 4 and started using motoseal. I had some threebond stuff too.

Mine has some random leaks on the exhaust and intake sides. A few times the bolts were leaking too, which means to much sealant must have seeped out. The seals havent been the culprit when vac/pressure testing.


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## ktoom (Mar 24, 2016)

Im at work, so no pics. 

I have thoroughly cleaned the maiting surfaces as well.


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

Need to check for warpage like in cylinder head with a flat edge on sump and cylinder


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## ktoom (Mar 24, 2016)

Is it possible that keeping the seals on the crank and matting the cylinder together is a bad way to do it??? Might that be causing my problems?


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

nope that is really the best way to do it


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

this will help check the sm out


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## backhoelover (Mar 24, 2016)

read the beginning of page 39. if you could get a pic of the leak it would help out alot


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## ktoom (Apr 1, 2016)

Got it situated. The liquid gasket too forever to dry. Thats where my problem was.


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