# Impulse bought a Shindaiwa T25. Fixed! Now running!



## ANewSawyer

A friend of mine is selling his Shindaiwa t25 for 75$. Seems to be fine but needs a carb rebuild. I probably overpaid but at least this is an improvement over the Homelite trimmer I am using. It has a loop handle and is a soild drive shaft. I may convert it to bike handles. It will not replace a more powerful dedicated brush cutter but I think it will do great for light grass duty.


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## jughead500

I don't think you got burnt.thats some old school shindaiwa.i have better luck out of the japanese trimmers.


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## ANewSawyer

Thanks for the reply. Do you think there is a chance it would drive a small blade? Not that it really matters. I will enjoy it.


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## jughead500

yeap it should do a 8''


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## ANewSawyer

Hmmm, that is better than I thought. I have blackberries. I might even be able to get away with a 10" Airecut brush blade, since they are easy to turn. Pity that Airectut doesn't make a smaller size.


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## jughead500

Yeah 10" should be fine.looks like 9" is standard.You don't go wide open with a Blade anyway.and blades don't create as much stress as line anyway.
Oh yeah found something for ya
http://www.shindaiwa-usa.com/getatt...12c-bc45-b2e34cb336ea/C25 C35 T25e_030187.pdf


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## ANewSawyer

Jughead, you have made my day! 
Thank you, thank you , thank you!
And the booklet is super useful too. Now I just have to find the blade adaptor. I THINK it is part K5 on the IPL. http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=shindaiwa&mn=T25&dn=10822

What do you think?


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## jughead500

Your welcome and print away my friend. I believe you are correct.thats very reasonable for that kit.and I havent noticed until know but the parts availability for shindaiwa is awesome on older models thru echo Compared to tanaka.just hope they hold out


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## ANewSawyer

If that isn't the adaptor, I don't know what else to look for. I was afraid to buy it for fear of not being able to get parts for the TK carb but I think I can round everything up from three or four parts sites.

Truth be told, I don't actually have the T25 yet. I looked at it Wednesday and gave my word to buy it. But didn't take it then because I was working and couldn't store it the rest of the day. But I am off tomorrow...


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## jughead500

Yeah that carb could be a slight problem


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## ANewSawyer

jughead500 said:


> Yeah that carb could be a slight problem



Why would it be a problem? Are they know to be persnickety?

I just got home from getting the weedeater. It says S-25 on the serial plate but it looks like the T-25. I think this had bike handle bars but was converted to a loop handle because it still has the bike handle bar throttle lever on the loop handle.

The trimmer popped on the first pull but I couldn't get it to start. That is why it needs a carb kit, lol.


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## jughead500

Just from lookin at the ipl it looks like parts may be a little hard to get.but fuji robin, maruyama etc used the same kind of carb.
One thing you can do is let some gas set in the carb for a few days and try it again.Worked a few times for me in old Mccullochs.


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## ANewSawyer

I think this is most of the diaphragms i need: http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Pr...le/Gasket-and-Diaphragms/JSE2672137/2672137/s


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## jughead500

Looks like your in good shape on that then.a good cleaning will probably help too.


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## ANewSawyer

There is a slight fear naggy at me that for some screwy reason, the kit might not fit but I won't know til I try!


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## jughead500

Hey for that much it won't hurt.


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## alderman

I've got three of the 25's. I actually had somebody give me one that just needed fuel lines. I've never tried a blade on them. Two have the throttle on the shaft and one is like you describe with the throttle on the loop. I have no clue why.


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## ANewSawyer

On your 25 that is like mine, where is the stop switch?


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## alderman

A piece on the shaft that also has a ring for the strap.


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## ANewSawyer

Exactly the same as mine. You also have the soft piece over the drive shaft too. Hmm...

Well, I think having the throttle on the loop will make the conversion to handle bars easier.


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## alderman

Would you let us know if the 25 will handle a blade after you try it?


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## ANewSawyer

Sure. I really hope it can run a blade. Never used a weedeater with a blade before. I guess if the 25 can't handle a blade, it will bog and not cut well. Still curious about Jughead's statement that you don't go wide open with blades.

Anybody know of a tutorial on using weedeater's with blades? I actually read part of the manual for one of Husqvarna's brushcutters and it touched on general use. I should go back and read the whole section on using a blade.

Ugh, I just got through skimming the service manual. I hope a new carb kit gets this running. Cause it would be a nightmare to work on without a bunch of special tools


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## jughead500

ANewSawyer said:


> Sure. I really hope it can run a blade. Never used a weedeater with a blade before. I guess if the 25 can't handle a blade, it will bog and not cut well. Still curious about Jughead's statement that you don't go wide open with blades.
> 
> Anybody know of a tutorial on using weedeater's with blades? I actually read part of the manual for one of Husqvarna's brushcutters and it touched on general use. I should go back and read the whole section on using a blade.
> 
> Ugh, I just got through skimming the service manual. I hope a new carb kit gets this running. Cause it would be a nightmare to work on without a bunch of special tools


Just wide open with blades isn't Necessary in Grass,Briars or other small stuff.Cutting bigger brush?Yes wide open is usually needed in Short Bursts to get thru what your cutting.With the Blade it doesn't cause as much Load on the Motor as the String Does.This causes the Motor to Rev Faster and reach Max RPM's faster.Kind of like Revving a saw Wide open out of wood.Can't be too good.Also with a Blade you have a Hard,Sharp metal Surface doing a Better Job at cutting than the Plastic String or Nylon Blade.


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## ANewSawyer

Heh, small stuff he says... I am in the foothills of the Smokies. It is like a tropical jungle over here. I have a couple of spots where the blackberry vines are 6 or 7 feet tall. That is going to be a challenge.

Now I understand what you were saying, Jug. Thanks for the explaination.


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## jughead500

Your welcome.im not too far from ya.I'm up here close to the peaks of the smokies.lol


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## ANewSawyer

Huh, for some reason, I thought you were over in middle TN. Nice to bump into a fellow east Tennessean!


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## jughead500

Naw im almost as east as you can get.I can spit over the nc and va lines.


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## alderman

I've run blades on my larger Shindaiwa's. With a good sharp 80 tooth blade it is amazing how much you can clear. I used 80 tooth initially on my property to clear a few acres of sapling. Going through a 4" sapling is a breeze with a sharp blade. 
A lot more trigger work involved with a blade. 
I know there are lots of blade options out there but I've used an 80 tooth more than any other. Goes through big blackberry stalks with ease and isn't as jarring on the machine as blades with fewer teeth. Just keep it out of the dirt so it will stay sharp. 
After a few years the woody stuff stops growing if you keep after it. Now I do most of my cutting with string.
I put in a lot of hours initially clearing the jungle. Your place almost sounds like out here in Western Oregon.


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## ANewSawyer

jughead500 said:


> Naw im almost as east as you can get.I can spit over the nc and va lines.



I don't go east from where I am very often. Too many tourists.



alderman said:


> I've run blades on my larger Shindaiwa's. With a good sharp 80 tooth blade it is amazing how much you can clear. I used 80 tooth initially on my property to clear a few acres of sapling. Going through a 4" sapling is a breeze with a sharp blade.
> A lot more trigger work involved with a blade.
> I know there are lots of blade options out there but I've used an 80 tooth more than any other. Goes through big blackberry stalks with ease and isn't as jarring on the machine as blades with fewer teeth. Just keep it out of the dirt so it will stay sharp.
> After a few years the woody stuff stops growing if you keep after it. Now I do most of my cutting with string.
> I put in a lot of hours initially clearing the jungle. Your place almost sounds like out here in Western Oregon.



Word bomb!

I have wondered about the carbide toothed brushcutter blades I see online. I have also heard I can use a circular saw blade but I don't know if that is true. Thing with sawblades is there is coarse grass mixed in with the blackberries and I don't think the sawblade will cut grass well. The funny thing is, we have explosive growth in the spring but seems mostly woody to me. Not the soft stuff I think of when I think of true jungle.

I have noticed some interesting things about horsepower on a couple of different brushcutters. This Shindaiwa had 1.4 (IIRC) horsepower according to the manual Jug posted. Husqvarna's 336fr 34.5cc brushcutter is supposed to have 1.9 HP and Stihl FS-130 36.3cc 4-mix has 1.9 BHP (BHP is different from straight HP. To lazy to do any more research). This isn't an apples to apples comparison but I thought it was interesting to see what a pre EPA machine rates HP wise. 

If my Shindaiwa doesn't work with the blade, I will be in the market to get a true brushcutter. More than anything else, it will be a decision between the 4-mix and (what I think is) still a 2 cycle engine, X-Torq. I know am choosing more than what I want, I need to choose what I will use. A 345FR would be fun as all get out but carrying it to do the mowing would stink. Even if my Shindaiwa can't clear the brush, it ought to do a great job mowing down grass. The way I look at it, I will have a couple of summers of clearing then everything will be mowing kneeish high grass. It is about 2 acres of rolling fields with some wooded areas. Would be great to get it to where I can mow with a regular lawn mower. May not be possible.


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## jughead500

If you do go stihl go with the fs240.the others are 4 mix with valves.got torque but its wide open throttle.they dont do too good at half throttle they just dont hold the rpms too well if what your cutting requires 1\2 throttle.the old fs250 was a force to be rckoned with too bad it has been replaced with the strato fs240.
Look into tanaka.i have a tbc340 and that thing has all of the power needed and is reliable as all get out.8 years and it still starts on the first pull and wants to rip the cord out of my hand.since it didn't owe me anything i modded the muffler and removed the cat and now it is just a completely different animal.i'm going to tear it down shortly and do a base gasket removal if i have enough clearance.may even rering it and go up a size or so on the fixed jet in the carb.the fixed jet rotary carbs must be more forgiving on mods than the adjustable ones.


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## ANewSawyer

I know one of our members really likes his FS 130 but the more I read about 4-mix, the more troublesome it looks. I am not saying it won't run right but the 4-mix system seems to be very complicated.


For the price of a FS 240 or 336FR, I could get a the ~40cc Tanaka. Which would probably be more machine than I need. I can't tell for sure but it looks like there isn't much price difference between the two sizes of Tanaka brushcutters. But there isn't a dealer near me! Both dealers are over 20 miles away. I might have to order the brushcutter online.

Parts are available online thought. That is something I can't say about Stihl.

BTW, I have been think about letting the cat out of my Husky 435 and Blower. Is it hard to do ? The only issue I see is that I don't have access to any welding or brazing supplies.


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## jughead500

You probably won't need a dealer on the tanaka.i just changed the original plug in mine back in the summer.
With muffler mod's the only thing i use is a Mapp torch.that is. Usually for uncrimping the flange if its not welded,soldered from the factory.most time i have spent on a muffler is like 30-45 minutes.sometimes they dont even have to come open.just drill or grind the holes then flush the muffler out really well with water.
If you can send me a picture of your 435 muffler i'll let you know if its possible.i just done a 326 lx muffler a while back and it is a beast now.


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## jughead500

Oh do becareful with buying tanaka nowdays some are made in china.i'm thinking that they may be closing out all of the Japanese models.not sure right now.if they do its going to be a crying shame.


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## jughead500

This would be a smoking deal
http://www.amazon.com/Tanaka-TCG31E...e=UTF8&qid=1423572923&sr=8-10&keywords=tanaka


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## ANewSawyer

I bought a propane torch to uncrimp an old homelite muffler but haven't tried it yet.

You are right, if I can get Tanaka parts, I don't really need a dealer.

I have a hunch that the link you posted might be a chinese Tanaka. I haven't found parts for it online. The only thing I can find about it is that it comes with a terrible string head. And that it was on sale for $179 through Woot in 2013.


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## jughead500

Your right that ones chinese.didnt know they had started making them that big yet.wish I could find a couple more japanese models to set back.I never have seen a tanaka torn up or worn out.dont know what they done absolutely right.lol


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## ANewSawyer

May I ask how you figured out it was Chinese? I just had a hunch to go on.

I wonder if the Tanaka TBC 340 and 430 are still Japanese made. Do we know if they are rolling over to Chinese on the same model numbers?


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## jughead500

Most chinese models have gray covers instead of black.some you can just kinda tell.i don't think they are using the same models numbers.looks like the saws have pretty well dried up.baileys sold out of the ecs3351 saws finally.glad i got one of those before they sold out.wish i could find a new 3301 cheap.


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## ANewSawyer

Found something you might like...

http://www.amazon.com/Tanaka-Commer...TF8&qid=1423615031&sr=8-5&keywords=tanaka+tbc

Forgot to add, that the carb gaskets for my 25 (remember me?) are on there way! I should have them by the end of the week.


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## jughead500

Oh yeah been standing by to see if they work.lol


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## jughead500

Yeap i have been eyeballin one of those for several years.guess i'll never get to own one. i bet one of those would take a fs250's lunch money.


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## ANewSawyer

You may be standing by for a while! I take my time when working on projects like this. I need to go ahead and pull the carb for cleaning. But I am being lazy.


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## jughead500

Yeah i know what you mean.i have 2 20x25 shops to work in.one at home that mom and dad has piled full of junk.the other is a great body shop that i was tricking out but the neighbor is off in the head and comes out and won't shut up.i try to ignore him but he won't let me.i usually leave p!ssed.i know he's mentally disturbed but if i go there im going to wind up in jail for beating on a mentally challenged individual. i've actually set and shouted at him for 2 hours and he won't shut up so i can work.anyway he contributes to my lazyness of rebuilding saws on my tailgate in cold weather. i gave up and sold my wood stove.


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## ANewSawyer

So, the gaskets should be here today. When I remove the carb I want to soak it in carb cleaner. I guess I could use something like this:

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-and-en...-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/139313_0_0/

The last rebuild I did, I used the spray carb cleaner. It worked fine but that was a lot newer carb.


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## jughead500

Berrymans is good stuff.make sure to take all of the plastic and rubber pieces off.


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## ANewSawyer

Gaskets are here! And I bought the dip above. I have pulled the carb and I am reading through the service manual before I work on it. The OUTSIDE needs cleaned before I open it up. Service manuals says to clean the carb with an other solvent after using a carb cleaner solution. Weird, I guess I could rinse it in fuel mix. 

I can see some definite downsides to the slide carb. It has more spots for airleaks to happen and a good chance to ingest part of the choke if the nut isn't properly tightened and staked. But the whole thing is ingeniously designed. A testament to engineers everywhere.

There are three rubber bits that came with the gaskets and I have NO IDEA where they go. Guess I will find out when I open up the carb. And it rattles. I wasn't expecting that. My face must have had a priceless expression on it when I realized that the carb was rattling. I am hoping that it is supposed to rattle.


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## alderman

I think one of the primer bits is is a seal for the primer.


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## ANewSawyer

Nrrr......... Shoot!!!! One of the gaskets it wrong. It is the metering diaphram gasket. I was GOING to take a pic but my camera is dead. Suffice to say, there isn't gasket on the new kit where there is gasket on the old gasket. I will post a pic when my camera is charged. The kit I found and ordered is for a TK-2. On the IPL my carb is labeled TK-DP10W. But they look almost exactly like each other. I don't know what model it is unless it is a TK-10. I haven't seen a gasket that looks like the old one. Don't know what to say.

Every other gasket and bit is right so far as I can tell. Except the metering gasket. I think fuel would leak if I used the new gasket. 

&^%[email protected]#$(*$%&)@)#(*$_*I(!

Edit: Ok, you know the red (purge?) lever on the bottom of the carb? There is a needle attached to the other end. The gasket should go around the rubber piece that is on top of the needle.


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## jughead500

Well crap.anything left of the old one to trace?


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## ANewSawyer

The old one is whole but stiff. My brother suggested reusing it. IDK about that. Might be a problem.


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## jughead500

I'd reuse it til you can find one that works.you may want to check out these kits.didn't know tillotson made kits for them until this morning.
http://www.mowers4u.com/tillotson-carburetor-shindiawa-homelite-kawasaki-p-3142.html?cPath=113_529


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## ANewSawyer

I see that bulk material is available, so I could cut my own? 
I need to get my calipers out and take measurments.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9611?seid=srese1&gclid=COXqhNaC5MMCFW0V7AodUjcA8w


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## jughead500

Yeap sure is.Autozone or O...O...O'reilly Auto parts should stock it.


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## ANewSawyer

I got some gray Fel-Pro rubber-fiber gasket. It says for gas sealing. I think this will work.

The roll material is thicker than replacement gasket but the old gasket is almost exactly the same thickness as the roll material. I don't forsee a problem with the roll material.


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## ANewSawyer

I finished the gasket and got the carb totally disassembled. It has been in the soak about 10 minutes. Will it hurt the carb if I leave it in too long? There shouldn't be any plastic parts left on it. I was really thorough during disassembly.


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## jughead500

Yeah it should be fine.


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## ANewSawyer

Ok, I will check it tomorrow morning.

Thanks for all the help, Jughead. You have been an invaluable help.


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## jughead500

Your welcome


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## ANewSawyer

This wonderful weather has kept me from having time to get the carb out of the soak. It will be REALLY clean! Should I rinse the carb off with something after the bath? Maybe some fresh fuel mix?


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## jughead500

Yeah just spray it down with carb cleaner.


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## ANewSawyer

Well, I spent an exciting evening putting the carb back together. Had to re trim the metering gasket and put a notch in the side of the meter diaphram for that... dohicky, thingymabob lever. But I hope to finish assembly before to long. Winter has other ideas, though!


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## jughead500




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## ANewSawyer

I am going to have to order some spare parts though. Mainly the air filter elements. Maybe a new metering lever because there is wear on mine from the metering diaphram. I will probably order a new fuel filter too. That never hurts.


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## jughead500

Nope never hurts to spend a litle on stuff that can cause trouble in the long run.


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## ANewSawyer

Carb is back together and ready for mounting. I need a depth tool for the metering lever in the carb but I got it close. Going to take down as much as I can for cleaning before I go ahead. 

I pulled the spark plug. The bore is shiny but the top of the piston is coated in this black stuff. I don't think that is good.


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## jughead500

Thats just carbon.you can tear down and clean up if you want along with the exhaust port.you may be able to switch to a synthetic oil and a cleaner like sea foam to help clean it up.but if you tear it down check to see if our rings are free or see if it needs reringed.


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## ANewSawyer

I thought as much. Never torn an engine down before. It will be a learning experience.

Having trouble with the muffler right now. I can't figure out how to get this one screw loose.
The screws holding the muffler cover on are rusted really bad. Will spray some PB blaster on them and let them sit over night.


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## sweetjetskier

Any of the older Shindaiwa trimmers are great runners, few things to look at before buying, but overall bullet-proof trimmers.

I have owned 14 plus over close to 20 years and still go to Shindaiwa over any other brand.


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## ANewSawyer

What are the things to look for? I already own the trimmer but it might save me some headache.


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## ANewSawyer

Everything is back together. I need to tighten the spark plug and a couple other things. When the weather breaks and it warms, I will try to crank the s25. Waiting....


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## ANewSawyer

Like the title says she will start but then die pretty quickly. Almost sounds like she is running out of gas. Cranks runs for a sec or two then winds down. Going to try turning the high speed screw out a little. If that doesn't work, I will open the carb and make sure that the pump diaphram isn't installed backwards.


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## jughead500

Hope ya get it.i'm sure it'll be something simple.


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## ANewSawyer

She is running! Strong too. It wasn't the pump diaphragm installed backwards it was the carb to crankcase gasket. The gasket was upside down and backwards.  No wonder the impulse hole was blocked!

I am going through ordering parts and I think the blade holders are already on my machine.  I may just need the bolt and the bolt protector. Now if only the owner's manual was clearer on how to install the blade!


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## jughead500

Great to hear.figured it was something simple.get the arbor straightened out and run it like you stole it.


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## ANewSawyer

ARGH! I had found a cheap ($70 shipped) set of OEM bike handle bars Evilbay that would have my fit my T-25. BUT I was waiting till I got the machine running and had made sure the T 25 would drive a blade before I purchased the handle bar. I went back to check on the Evilbay listing tonight since I got the machine running and the handle bar has sold! Dang, they have been up there for several weeks. The same handle bar new is well over $200 + shipping. I KNEW I should have picked the evilbay set up earlier. This is what I get for not listening to my own advice and being lazy/procrastinating. Nrrr....


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