# How do I make a ripping chain?



## carvinmark (Jun 29, 2006)

I just got all set up on my mill again but the saw shop couldn't get a skip tooth 404 chain. Should I remove every third tooth and raker or just regrind to 5 degrees ??????? I'm running a 395 with a seven tooth rim sprocket. Want to mill tomorrow so if anyone can help I will be greatfull.
Mark


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## CaseyForrest (Jun 29, 2006)

Mark.....Im pretty sure Lake will jump in, But Ill give it a go.

File the tooth to 5 or 10 degrees, and remove the top of the cutter on every third tooth, leaving the side in tact. Thats how Lake does it. Id still like to know how he grinds the top off without tempering the metal!!!!

Ive got a couple loops of the woodsman pro ripping chain, and a couple loops of Lazer ripping chain. The only difference between the two is the Lazer chain has the top plate full width on the first, slightly narrower on the next, and almost gone on the third, and then starts the process over again. 

Ive not noticed much difference in cutting between the two, and at .20 per for the woodsman, and .39 for the Lazer...well, need I say more?

EDIT: Mark, I know I asked you once before for a price on some Cedar logs, and I said Id pass. Do you remember what you told me for a price? Id need something around 12" to 16" diameter, or smaller, but more of them, to get about 200sf of 8" lap siding. I may have a saw up for trade if youd be interested!


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## carvinmark (Jun 29, 2006)

Casey,
Thanks for the input,just as I thought,don't remove anything more than the top of the third tooth.I'm going to try this tomorrow morning and hopefully let you know how it goes soon.As for the cedar,All I have is 8" and smaller.I can get you the larger dia for my cost from one of my suppliers,but I'll need to check with them as the price seems to keep going up.I will PM you with prices as soon as I have them.
Mark


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## carvinmark (Jun 29, 2006)

Casey,
are you running 3/8 or 404?
Mark


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## oldsaw (Jun 29, 2006)

I've had good luck with the Woodsman Pro, especially for the $$. Recommended.

I've got another I've made out of Stihl RS full comp at 5 degrees, and another out of Stihl RS skip at about 10 degrees. Can't really do a comparison since one is a 36" loop and the others are 42s. All I've done is grind the top plates to 5 or 10 degrees. Still experimenting with that.

Mark


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 29, 2006)

Look at http://www.granberg.com/ripping_chain.htm

Buy Stihl RM (full comp) and modify the chain just like in the link above. If you are using a grinder, be sure to reset the length of the cutters between the 5-10 degree clearing cutters and the 20 degree slicing cutters... They need to be the same length. You can just make them all 5 or 10 degrees, but it works better for me with them different.

I have used full skip RS (square grind) and it works real well out of the box. Problem is you have to sharpen it, and then you need to remove every 3rd or so pairs of tops plates.

I find that RM (semi chisel) lasts a LOT longer than chisel. They both blunt fast, but the RM keep on cutting long after the RS has given up.


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 29, 2006)

CaseyForrest said:


> File the tooth to 5 or 10 degrees, and remove the top of the cutter on every third tooth, leaving the side in tact. Thats how Lake does it. Id still like to know how he grinds the top off without tempering the metal!!!!




I use the side of a diamond 3/16 wheel! Removes the metal really fast and clean. No blueing or material change in temper,,, but you need a light touch.

If you don't have diamond, use "Kool Grind" on the wheel.


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## carvinmark (Jun 29, 2006)

Thank you for posting Lake,
Mark


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## GlennG (Jun 30, 2006)

Carvinmark

While you can make your own rip chain, I would suggest buying a 100 ft reel of ripping chain from Oregon. Make many chains and take them all with you when you cut a log. 

While a crosscut chain can last all day in clean wood doing normal treework, you will find a ripping chain will loose its edge quickly. I find that it is necesary to install a fresh chain or sharpen about every 2 to 3 tankfuls with my 066 setup. Having only a few chains for ripping will be a bit frustrating. Having a boat load of super sharp ripping chain will make life much easier. Ripping with dull chain is missery. I find it worth the investment to buy factory made ripping chain in bulk.

Best of luck

Glenn


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## CaseyForrest (Jun 30, 2006)

Im running 3/8's. I also dont use more than a 28" bar. I havent noticed any stretch, and have had the bar smoken!!! All I have to cut is hard wood though, I have not yet had a chance to get into any soft woods here, all Ash and White Oak.


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## carvinmark (Jun 30, 2006)

GlennG said:


> Carvinmark
> 
> While you can make your own rip chain, I would suggest buying a 100 ft reel of ripping chain from Oregon. Make many chains and take them all with you when you cut a log.
> 
> ...



Glen,
My mill looks almost like a band mill,it is on a trailer frame and has a solid 16' deck.I load logs with my loader,and my grinder is 50' away in my shop.I have only moved it twice in two years. I'm not sure what to do about bulk chain yet because I'm still experimenting and the cost is scary.I sharpen about every two to three tanks also.I know what you mean about milling with a dull chain,it's not fun. I usually mill after hours and really enjoy it. Think I'll get a factory ripping chain and try it out.Thanks,

Mark


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## woodshop (Jun 30, 2006)

I also find that a ripping chain only lasts about 3 tankfuls in my 396XP before I notice it starts to get slower. BUT, I do find that just like my little Ripsaw bandmill, if I'm milling pure wooden cants where I'm not going through lots of bark, it does last longer. I usually take three sharpened milling chains with me, as I don't like to burn daylight sharpening in the woods on a stump or back of truck, and swap them out as needed even though it's more of a pain on a csm 'cause you have to take the saw out of the mill. I prefer sharpening in my shop, in a vise, taking my time. I actually carry 3 chains in my toolbox for all my saws when I go out, and just change chain. I only sharpen in the woods when I run out of other options.


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## oldsaw (Jun 30, 2006)

woodshop said:


> I also find that a ripping chain only lasts about 3 tankfuls in my 396XP before I notice it starts to get slower. BUT, I do find that just like my little Ripsaw bandmill, if I'm milling pure wooden cants where I'm not going through lots of bark, it does last longer. I usually take three sharpened milling chains with me, as I don't like to burn daylight sharpening in the woods on a stump or back of truck, and swap them out as needed even though it's more of a pain on a csm 'cause you have to take the saw out of the mill. I prefer sharpening in my shop, in a vise, taking my time. I actually carry 3 chains in my toolbox for all my saws when I go out, and just change chain. I only sharpen in the woods when I run out of other options.



I'm about the same way. I carry 3 42s and 3 36s sharpened and ready to go out in the field. Goal is to get 3 more 42s this summer by buying a 25' roll so I can keep three nice ones, and have one "rocked out" version when nails are a possibility. 

When I mill, I'm more often than not playing "beat the clock" or the sun as well. That's why I carry both the 3120 and the 066 out in case one has "issues" that day. Eventually I'll carry so much stuff that I won't have room for wood to come back home.

Mark


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## Lakeside53 (Jun 30, 2006)

I always de-bark the entire log before milling - only take as few minutes with MUTT (big ice chipper that looks like a 4 inch chisel with a 5 foot handle...).

Chain last about 2x this way...

With the Semi Chisel RM, and very careful attention to the length of the slicers and clearers (or whatever they are called), I now get about 4 tanks on my 066 in 18-20 inch maple.

It's really easy to get the slicers too long, and then they take the brunt of the wear an quickly dull. If both type of cutters wear at the same rate, the life is extended.

I use a portable 12v grinder to touch up the chain while on the mill (all cutters from the same [accessible] side). Mine is Stihl, but it's the same as a Granberg. This way I don't have to change the chain all day... but it really needs attention on the bench grinder after that!.


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## casey v (Jun 30, 2006)

How to make a ripping chain? Take a normal full house chisel chain. Re-file all the cutter top plates to about 5 degrees. Refile all the rakers to .025 to .030. Round off the leading edge of the rakers so that it transitions nicely and presto, you are done. No magic involved. Cuts smooth and easily done with a file. For a narrow kerf, use an old chain that has been filed back to more than 50%.

Mike


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## carvinmark (Jul 1, 2006)

casey v said:


> How to make a ripping chain? Take a normal full house chisel chain. Re-file all the cutter top plates to about 5 degrees. Refile all the rakers to .025 to .030. Round off the leading edge of the rakers so that it transitions nicely and presto, you are done. No magic involved. Cuts smooth and easily done with a file. For a narrow kerf, use an old chain that has been filed back to more than 50%.
> 
> Mike



That is exactly what I did yesterday and it works great.I was going to try Making the granberg style and decided to try this way first. I went thru 4 tanks and it is just starting to slow a little.I was cutting 10' X 37" pine planks and they are the smoothest I've done yet,WOW!! It was a good evening.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Jul 1, 2006)

carvinmark said:


> That is exactly what I did yesterday and it works great.I was going to try Making the granberg style and decided to try this way first. I went thru 4 tanks and it is just starting to slow a little.I was cutting 10' X 37" pine planks and they are the smoothest I've done yet,WOW!! It was a good evening.


 

Great to hear this. I have several more big pines to mill. Let us know how the granberg performs.


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## woodshop (Jul 1, 2006)

I'm convinced after using it, that ripping chain does perform better when milling than standard chain, and I've invested in and use milling chains for my GB csm. Have to say though, that many times for various reasons I've milled with standard full chisel 3/8 chain like I use in my saws, with good results. I'm sure other here have done the same. Has to be a just sharpened chain though.


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## Lakeside53 (Jul 2, 2006)

casey v said:


> How to make a ripping chain? Take a normal full house chisel chain. Re-file all the cutter top plates to about 5 degrees. Refile all the rakers to .025 to .030. Round off the leading edge of the rakers so that it transitions nicely and presto, you are done. No magic involved. Cuts smooth and easily done with a file. For a narrow kerf, use an old chain that has been filed back to more than 50%.
> 
> Mike




Do you mean "full house" or "full comp"?


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## casey v (Jul 3, 2006)

Sorry all, I have been away for a few days. Lakeside, I mean "full comp", we call that "full house" up here in Canada.

Mike


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## hautions11 (Jul 3, 2006)

*chain*

Woodshop I agree. I do see a difference with ripping chain, but faced with the choice of filing in the woods or throwing on a known sharp "regular" chain, I'll put the sharp one on every time. I guess that means I need a few more sharp ripping chains in my box.


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## woodshop (Jul 3, 2006)

hautions11 said:


> Woodshop I agree. I do see a difference with ripping chain, but faced with the choice of filing in the woods or throwing on a known sharp "regular" chain, I'll put the sharp one on every time. I guess that means I need a few more sharp ripping chains in my box.



yup, as stated before, I hate burning daylight in the woods filing 119 links, want to keep milling. Thats why I carry 3 sharpened ripping chains, one on the saw and two in the box, and if all else fails, I can always throw on the standard square chisel skip tooth I also carry for felling and bucking big trees. In a pinch I can finish milling with that. Sure, on a long day when I'm milling several large logs, even that isn't enough, and I have to just stop and sharpen. Milling with a dull chain is hard on the saw as well as frustrating for the guy (or girl?) trying to coax it down the log.


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