# Husqvarna 3120 K



## 160kph (Nov 20, 2012)

Hello All

I've seen a Husqvarna 3120 K Power Cutter for sale cheap and I would like a little advice as to how easy it would be to convert and use with a Alaska mill. I know that most of them have no oil tank which would make it difficult to convert to a normal chainsaw, but would it be to much of a problem as a mill saw? There are other threads on the subject but they all seem to be from a normal chainsaw use point of view.

I await your words of wisdom,

Joshua.


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## hamish (Nov 20, 2012)

To convert it into a mill saw, bare bones you will need a clutch drum/rim, bar retention plate and an auxilary oiler set up. A proper handle and a clutch cover are nice but not necessary.


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## 160kph (Nov 20, 2012)

Thanks Hamish, I guess I just need to price the parts and see if it's much cheaper then buying a regular saw. I think I can get the saw for about 400 dollars and the cheapest 3120xp I've seen second hand was well over 10000 dollars. Sweden is expensive.


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## BobL (Nov 20, 2012)

160kph said:


> . . . . the cheapest 3120xp I've seen second hand was well over 10000 dollars. Sweden is expensive.



Wow, half that sort of money you could fly to the US, buy a 3120xp, (or Stihl 880 :msp_smile and bring it back to Sweden!


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## 160kph (Nov 21, 2012)

BobL said:


> Wow, half that sort of money you could fly to the US, buy a 3120xp, (or Stihl 880 :msp_smile and bring it back to Sweden!



Yes I know, I've lived here for 6 years now and I still can't get used to how expensive things are compared to the U.K let alone the U.S. I was looking at a second hand planner thicknesser that turned out about 100 dollars more then buying it new in the U.K.


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## BobL (Nov 21, 2012)

160kph said:


> Yes I know, I've lived here for 6 years now and I still can't get used to how expensive things are compared to the U.K let alone the U.S. I was looking at a second hand planner thicknesser that turned out about 100 dollars more then buying it new in the U.K.



What about buying it in Germany?
When I was in Koln recently the prices were nowhere near those sorts of prices


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## 160kph (Nov 21, 2012)

BobL said:


> What about buying it in Germany?
> When I was in Koln recently the prices were nowhere near those sorts of prices



I do buy a lot of thing in U.K when I can. I even buy parts for my Swedish Saab in the U.K, most things are at least 50% cheaper from the U.K including postage. I'm generally not organized enough to do it with everything. 

With this saw it seems a very good price for a power-head even compared to what I could find in the U.K, I just wasn't sure if there were other issues that would make it a non viable project.


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## hamish (Nov 21, 2012)

Joshua

What is a Krona worth now? About 10-15 cents US?


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## john taliaferro (Nov 21, 2012)

6.71 per $ this morning or 14.9 cents


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## gemniii (Nov 24, 2012)

160kph said:


> <snip>I think I can get the saw for about 400 dollars and the cheapest 3120xp I've seen second hand was well over 10000 dollars. Sweden is expensive.



10000 dollars? 10,000 dollars or was that a typo for $1,000?


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## 160kph (Nov 25, 2012)

gemniii said:


> 10000 dollars? 10,000 dollars or was that a typo for $1,000?



Sorry guys I must be getting old, one too many zero's.


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## gemniii (Nov 25, 2012)

160kph said:


> Sorry guys I must be getting old, one too many zero's.


Whew! I was about to start trying to smuggle saws!


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## 160kph (Nov 25, 2012)

gemniii said:


> Whew! I was about to start trying to smuggle saws!



I have seen some things priced here in Sweden that I could buy ten of in England for the same price. Some plumbing fittings are way overpriced here.

I think it's a case of Sweden being a small market spread over a large area with high taxes and a population that doesn't generally like to complain about things.


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## robertjinnes (Dec 4, 2012)

*3120*

i'm going the same route. Rebuilt a 3120K that was in such bad shape, loose muffler and cracked rings that concrete grit had destroyed the bearings and seals and was being sucked back into the engine due to loose muffler. Pieces if rings were imbeded into the top of the piston and dome of the cylinder. Cylinder walls were however in great shape. New piston, rings, bearings and seals and noe I have an engine that will hurt you if you try to start it without compression release. I'll use a tank oiler system etc etc. Looking forward to making chips. Actually considering running it initially on an alaskan mill with the oiler at the tip of the bar. Will actually put oil into the tip sprocket and on the loaded rather than slack part of the chain.


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## hamish (Dec 4, 2012)

robertjinnes said:


> i'm going the same route. Rebuilt a 3120K that was in such bad shape, loose muffler and cracked rings that concrete grit had destroyed the bearings and seals and was being sucked back into the engine due to loose muffler. Pieces if rings were imbeded into the top of the piston and dome of the cylinder. Cylinder walls were however in great shape. New piston, rings, bearings and seals and noe I have an engine that will hurt you if you try to start it without compression release. I'll use a tank oiler system etc etc. Looking forward to making chips. Actually considering running it initially on an alaskan mill with the oiler at the tip of the bar. Will actually put oil into the tip sprocket and on the loaded rather than slack part of the chain.



One has to ask....what was your piston to cylinder wall dimension? The exhaust is mainly a one way route primarily dew to the difference in the height of the intake vs the exhaust ports, ring failure will damage the cylinder, you suffered a bearing failure from the sounds of it, ring damage is very evident, and one is missing part of said ring........but i do always see new things!


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