# White Pine milling



## Trever (Nov 21, 2010)

Here are some pictures of the fun I had yesterday. Still have 2-3 boards to mill from this White Pine. I will move the boards into the basement on Monday and will rip them on my tablesaw in a couple of weeks.


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## DRB (Nov 21, 2010)

Looks good. Whats up with the gas can? Aux. fuel tank?


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## mtngun (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks for the pics !


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## Trever (Nov 21, 2010)

*Aux fuel can*



DRB said:


> Looks good. Whats up with the gas can? Aux. fuel tank?



You bet. I can cut around 20+ feet without refueling which is huge on a 075/076 saw. 

We (one of my employees) drilled a hole in the gas can (1 gallon), used a couple fittings we had laying around the shop, and now I am good to go.

I bungie cord the can to the mill's top rail as you can see in the picture. So far so good.


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## Trever (Nov 21, 2010)

mtngun said:


> Thanks for the pics !



You're very welcome. I will get someone to video my using it sometime. I am on the lookout for a Hi Lift jack now!! I need to get these logs off the ground. I am researching a few posts on this.


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## 820wards (Nov 23, 2010)

Trever said:


> Here are some pictures of the fun I had yesterday. Still have 2-3 boards to mill from this White Pine. I will move the boards into the basement on Monday and will rip them on my tablesaw in a couple of weeks.




Trever, nice milling.

I see that you have a 105cc West Bend saw. Could yo post a picture of the saw. I might know where I can get one, but I need to picture to verify it.

jerry-


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## Trever (Nov 25, 2010)

*Strunk*



820wards said:


> Trever, nice milling.
> 
> I see that you have a 105cc West Bend saw. Could yo post a picture of the saw. I might know where I can get one, but I need to picture to verify it.
> 
> jerry-



Jerry,

Enjoy reading some our posts and like your handle. I have been looking for an West Bend, Chrysler, Power Bee 820 for awhile now. I would like to run one on a mill. Also, really would like own a Root, Wards, Lancaster, White 820 chainsaw. Here is my Strunk Big Machete. I will rebuild it eventually.


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## 820wards (Nov 25, 2010)

Trever said:


> Jerry,
> 
> Enjoy reading some our posts and like your handle. I have been looking for an West Bend, Chrysler, Power Bee 820 for awhile now. I would like to run one on a mill. Also, really would like own a Root, Wards, Lancaster, White 820 chainsaw. Here is my Strunk Big Machete. I will rebuild it eventually.




Trever,

Thanks for the photos, now I know what they look like.

My mill is actually a 820 Chrysler motor. I bought it from an old poster here, Art Martin. He was going to build a race saw from it and never did, he even gave me a 1" bore carb with the motor. So when I mill it really cuts. I had to make my own clutch drive rim fro two different drums, but it works great. I have some pictures posted showing how I made the drum. With the right tools it's easy.

I have a spare original 820 Wards motor just in case I break something on my Wards saw or my mill.

Thanks again for the pictures. Are you going to restore that saw?

jerry-


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## tomtrees58 (Nov 25, 2010)

nice i love milling w pine


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## Trever (Nov 25, 2010)

I have a spare original 820 Wards motor just in case I break something on my Wards saw or my mill.

Thanks again for the pictures. Are you going to restore that saw?

jerry-[/QUOTE]

Yes I will get around to it; it is my oldest and neatest saw. 
I am currently building a 076 Super from a TS 760. After that, I will build a Homelite C-91 followed by the Strunk. I have a KTM 125 motor to play around with too. Hope you are having a great Thanksgiving.


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## Trever (Nov 25, 2010)

A few of these boards will yield 16" wide boards. I measured na couple of them this evening after the turkey wore off. Now it's off to my parents house for a second dose!

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!


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## Trever (Nov 25, 2010)

tomtrees58 said:


> nice i love milling w pine



Me too Tom! Thanks and happy Thanksgiving.


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## Brmorgan (Nov 25, 2010)

Trever said:


> I have a spare original 820 Wards motor just in case I break something on my Wards saw or my mill.
> 
> Thanks again for the pictures. Are you going to restore that saw?
> 
> jerry-



Yes I will get around to it; it is my oldest and neatest saw. 
*I am currently building a 076 Super from a TS 760.* After that, I will build a Homelite C-91 followed by the Strunk. I have a KTM 125 motor to play around with too. Hope you are having a great Thanksgiving.[/QUOTE]


How's that going for you? Any issues with the oiler? I've read that some cases had the oil reservoir permanently blocked off on the cutoff saws.


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## betterbuilt (Nov 25, 2010)

Brmorgan said:


> How's that going for you? Any issues with the oiler? I've read that some cases had the oil reservoir permanently blocked off on the cutoff saws.



I'd like to know more about this. I'm Building a a 076 from a Ts760 also. 

I have two different case one obviously can't have an oiler and the other seems to be the same case as the 076. Maybe we should do a tread on it. It doesn't seem documented very well.


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## Brmorgan (Nov 25, 2010)

betterbuilt said:


> I'd like to know more about this. I'm Building a a 076 from a Ts760 also.
> 
> I have two different case one obviously can't have an oiler and the other seems to be the same case as the 076. Maybe we should do a tread on it. It doesn't seem documented very well.



I had this discussion last summer with fellow member "kevlar" over here:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=102938

He's pretty convinced there are no TS760 crankcases in existence that can be used, or at least not the right half. I trust his judgment but I've hung out around here enough to know that there is always an exception to the rule where saws are concerned! I'm going to ask my friend if he has a 760 carcass somewhere on his shelves, just to see what they look like.


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## Trever (Nov 26, 2010)

*076 conversion*

How's that going for you? Any issues with the oiler? I've read that some cases had the oil reservoir permanently blocked off on the cutoff saws.[/QUOTE]

Not yet. I will go outside a look at the part number that is on my cases. I have noticed some TS 760 cases have the provision for a handguard/ handbrake and some look more like the older 051/075 cases without it. The cases I am using have it. My TS760 had a removeable plug where the oiler would be on a 1111 series saw (050/051/075/076/ MS076). I will look at the plug for the adjustable auto oiler today as well. Where the manual oiler would be was a bolt screwed into the case. Looks to like my case was a 076 case.


betterbuilt said:


> I'd like to know more about this. I'm Building a a 076 from a Ts760 also.
> 
> Does your case have the handbrake ears on the front? See if an aluminum plug is installed where oiler would be. Mine removed just like you would removing the oiler.
> 
> I have two different case one obviously can't have an oiler and the other seems to be the same case as the 076. Maybe we should do a tread on it. It doesn't seem documented very well.



I have some pictures with part numbers of the case halves I am using for my build.



Brmorgan said:


> I had this discussion last summer with fellow member "kevlar" over here:
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=102938
> 
> He's pretty convinced there are no TS760 crankcases in existence that can be used, or at least not the right half. I trust his judgment but I've hung out around here enough to know that there is always an exception to the rule where saws are concerned! I'm going to ask my friend if he has a 760 carcass somewhere on his shelves, just to see what they look like.



I am not as far in build yet, but my cases look like they will work so far. I know the manual oiler will work due to their being a tapped hole with just a bolt screwed in. I have seen these on other TS 760 cases as well and have seen some other TS 760 cases that do not have it.

Also, I must mention that my TS 760 was the old style that have the (2) screw air filter cover and not the newer single screw cover.


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## betterbuilt (Nov 26, 2010)

That's one nice looking case. I have one with the same numbers as yours. I have two other cases that both have different numbers.


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## betterbuilt (Nov 26, 2010)

I don't buy the fact that they can't be converted. It not gonna stop me from trying. I figure if the oiler doesn't I'll just add a auxiliary oiler to both sides. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Trever (Nov 26, 2010)

*Oiler*



betterbuilt said:


> I don't buy the fact that they can't be converted. It not gonna stop me from trying. I figure if the oiler doesn't I'll just add a auxiliary oiler to both sides. :hmm3grin2orange:



Yep!! Great minds must think alike!! I was thinking the same earlier. I will post on another thread sometime how it works out. 

Dad gumit!! You all have me thinking now. I am going outside and slide my new oiler inside that case and see. I will let you all know.


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## betterbuilt (Nov 26, 2010)

Trever said:


> Yep!! Great minds must think alike!! I was thinking the same earlier. I will post on another thread sometime how it works out.
> 
> Dad gumit!! You all have me thinking now. I am going outside and slide my new oiler inside that case and see. I will let you all know.



The one thing I don't see is if the oil can get to the oiler. Mine is still together. Can you see over to where there oiler would pick up the oil from the inside of the case.


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## betterbuilt (Nov 26, 2010)

Now that I think about it i bet we've been bidding against each other on ebay. If you need any parts feel free to pm me. I have a few extra parts.


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## Trever (Nov 26, 2010)

I am giong to open up a can of worms probably, but I am giong to reopen that older thread on this subject. I have some more information to post.

I have bought most of my stuff new from the local Stihl dealer. I did recently buy a brand new starter cover off of EBAY for this saw. $65.00 including shipping. Not bad for a $180.00 part.


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## Trever (Nov 26, 2010)

betterbuilt said:


> Now that I think about it i bet we've been bidding against each other on ebay. If you need any parts feel free to pm me. I have a few extra parts.



Thank you for replying on the thread I reopned. We'll see what we get and maybe someone has completed this conversion.


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## betterbuilt (Nov 26, 2010)

Trever said:


> Thank you for replying on the thread I reopned. We'll see what we get and maybe someone has completed this conversion.



Did you find something that made you reopen that thread? Does it look like the oil is plugged off?


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## betterbuilt (Nov 26, 2010)

I just looked at my 076 and the numbers on the case are the same as the one you have.


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## Trever (Nov 26, 2010)

That is really great news. I will double check my oil passages from the oil tank to the oiler. Worse case scenario would be having to drill through a boss or something.

Do you have a good used cylinder and piston?


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## betterbuilt (Nov 26, 2010)

Trever said:


> That is really great news. I will double check my oil passages from the oil tank to the oiler. Worse case scenario would be having to drill through a boss or something.
> 
> Do you have a good used cylinder and piston?








It almost looks like a plug. 

I don't have a p&c. I was waiting till I got all the parts together and make sure its gonna work first. I'm still looking for the walbro carb also.


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## Trever (Nov 26, 2010)

betterbuilt said:


> It almost looks like a plug.
> 
> I don't have a p&c. I was waiting till I got all the parts together and make sure its gonna work first. I'm still looking for the walbro carb also.



+1 on the Walbro WS-26 carb. The P/N for the WS-26 is 1111 120 0605 and has been replaced with P/N 1111 120 0608 (Walbro WJ-112) for $127.00 at the Stihl dealer.

I will send you a PM.


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## betterbuilt (Nov 26, 2010)

Trever said:


> +1 on the Walbro WS-26 carb. The P/N for the WS-26 is 1111 120 0605 and has been replaced with P/N 1111 120 0608 (Walbro WJ-112) for $127.00 at the Stihl dealer.
> 
> I will send you a PM.



I have the WS-26 on my 076 but it wasn't labeled a super. I also have 2 of the Tillotson carbs.

My dealer quoted me $131 for the WJ-112

Do you happen to have the number for the TS-760 2 stud air filter cover. I have the mount. I just need the cover.


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## BobL (Nov 26, 2010)

Trever said:


> . Where the manual oiler would be was a bolt screwed into the case. Looks to like my case was a 076 case.
> 
> . . . . .
> 
> I know the manual oiler will work due to their being a tapped hole with just a bolt screwed in.



I'd forget about using the manual oiler. On the 076 the manual oiler not worth a dime for milling. It is very poorly located so the operator has to reach down low to access it and even then the operators wrist is at the wrong angle and turns milling into an ergonomic nightmare. Even if the operator can get at it without being a contortionist, these pumps are quite stiff so cannot be operated for more than about 10 seconds or so at a time without a break. I did think about fitting a lever/linkage that would make it easier to use while standing upright at the mill but realized that also meant growing a 3rd hand so I figured it was easier to add an aux-oiler.

If you cannot get the oil pump working I would go with BBs idea of " . . . add a auxiliary oiler to both sides.'


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## Trever (Nov 26, 2010)

Thanks Bob and I think it will work. Betterbuilt has a 076 with the same part numbers on his cases. I agree with you 100% on 075/076 manual oiler!! They are in pain in the rear. I am only putting it on the saw for restoration completeness. I can count the number of times I have used my 075's on one hand.


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## Jasonsmsu (Mar 8, 2011)

Im going to tear into mine tomorrow and do some investigating. This has gotten me all excited.


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## betterbuilt (Mar 8, 2011)

Jasonsmsu said:


> Im going to tear into mine tomorrow and do some investigating. This has gotten me all excited.


 
If you were wanting to mill with it you wouldn't need to have an oiler.

You would need to change add a drum, oiler gear, add a chain tensioner. The clutch should work if its serviceable. You'd need the bar plates and a cover for the bar. I think you'd be in business with an oiler on the other end of the bar.


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## Trever (Mar 9, 2011)

*Conversion*

Glad to see all the interest in this. I can't wait to get back into my saws, especially this one when I get back home. I am going to make it an 076 Super. Already have new Brazalian made parts for it. You all pray for the Armed Forces and their families. Thank you and have a blessed evening.

Trever


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## betterbuilt (Mar 9, 2011)

Trever said:


> Glad to see all the interest in this. I can't wait to get back into my saws, especially this one when I get back home. I am going to make it an 076 Super. Already have new Brazalian made parts for it. You all pray for the Armed Forces and their families. Thank you and have a blessed evening.
> 
> Trever


 
I'm looking forward to your build. Take care of yourself. I was in the 160th when this all started so your not far from my thoughts.


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## 820wards (Mar 9, 2011)

betterbuilt said:


> I'm looking forward to your build. Take care of yourself. I was in the 160th when this all started so your not far from my thoughts.


 
Ditto...

Be safe and we'll want to see that saw build you've planned.

jerry-


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## Jasonsmsu (Mar 15, 2011)

I tore the side cover off of my chop saw and low and behold there was a tensioner bolt and bar plate. I'm still going to attempt to convert it back to a chain saw.


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## betterbuilt (Mar 15, 2011)

Jasonsmsu said:


> I tore the side cover off of my chop saw and low and behold there was a tensioner bolt and bar plate. I'm still going to attempt to convert it back to a chain saw.


 
I was looking at mine today and I think it's possible but your gonna need an oiler and all the other accessories. Your also gonna have to figure out how the oil gets to the oiler. 

You should check the bearings and crank if you tear it down. I have a few cases here and the some of the cranks are worn pretty 
good.


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## Jasonsmsu (Mar 15, 2011)

The last 4 digits on the case are 0810. I'm not sure if that matters. I will post better pics tomorrow.


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## Jasonsmsu (Mar 15, 2011)

If i wanted a parts chainsaw, what sizes interchange with the 076?


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## betterbuilt (Mar 15, 2011)

Jasonsmsu said:


> If i wanted a parts chainsaw, what sizes interchange with the 076?


 
050,051,075,076 share a bunch of parts. They differ some.


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## john taliaferro (Mar 15, 2011)

I found a 51 on ebay back in 09 , no run the muffler was plugged up ,and easey cook and clean . so question is can you make it in to a 76 or ?


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## betterbuilt (Mar 16, 2011)

john taliaferro said:


> I found a 51 on ebay back in 09 , no run the muffler was plugged up ,and easey cook and clean . so question is can you make it in to a 76 or ?


 
I guess it depends on the 051. A 076 or an 075 have studs not bolts holding the cylinder on. You 051 will have 5MM bolts and you'd have to get the 6mm studs and change them. I borrowed this photo from blsnelling thread.





The other difference is the front of the saw where the chain brake would be. some have ear for the brake and some don't. Another cosmetic difference is the oiler hole. Some were on the top and others on the side 076 were on the side. Yet another difference is the auxiliary oiler push button the 051 didn't come with them.


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## betterbuilt (Mar 20, 2011)

Jasonsmsu said:


> The last 4 digits on the case are 0810. I'm not sure if that matters. I will post better pics tomorrow.


 
Well I have finally split the case I have the is the same part number as yours. It can be converted but your gonna have to split the case an remove the plate that's over the oiler. I would replace the bearings while your already in there. I'll post some pictures 
later.


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## betterbuilt (Mar 21, 2011)

here's the pics








This case really only needs the oil sump and a pump to be converted. 

I think Trever needs to drill out the hole where the arrow is if he wants and oiler to work. 




I'm gonna post better pictures for Trever before I go any further so he will know exactly where the oiler hole comes out.


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## Trever (Mar 21, 2011)

*Drill baby drill!*

Betterbuilt,

Thank you for your pics. I am thinking I will ease into that hole with about a 1/8" bit and see what it looks like. Then I will ease up a couple of sizes from there. That screw hole is right on where the oil should enter the oiler. Just make sure there are no burrs after you drill. Hope all is going well. Starting to warm up over here. By the way, I guess the 160th is permanent party here and just rotates soldiers in and out. Take care and have a blessed day.

Trever


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## betterbuilt (Mar 21, 2011)

Mine doesn't need drilled, that plate was covering the hole. The hole is a little smaller than an 1/8 inch. I'll get some pics of the hole. 

We were rotating about every 60 to 90 days back then. I miss it a little. Don't forget to drink water. Take care of yourself and get home safe. You'll be in my thoughts. Bill


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## Timberframed (Mar 21, 2011)

For consideration may I suggest eliminating the powerhead oiler all together. This would be for a designated big bar mill saw only of course. One less thing to have to watch and fill. The aux. oiler takes it's place. Then again I don't have a factory oiler on my big bar mill. I understand while it's apart and all and necessity being the mother of invention. Something tells me this is not going to go over very well.


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## betterbuilt (Mar 21, 2011)

Timberframed said:


> For consideration may I suggest eliminating the powerhead oiler all together. This would be for a designated big bar mill saw only of course. One less thing to have to watch and fill. The aux. oiler takes it's place. Then again I don't have a factory oiler on my big bar mill. I understand while it's apart and all and necessity being the mother of invention. Something tells me this is not going to go over very well.


 
I'm actually build three 076's and one isn't gonna have an oiler. I'm gonna run .325 .063 because they never made a rim for the 076 that is .325. I figure i could change the drum and cut some stone with it. The only reason I want the oiler to work is because of resale value and I can still use it to cut big firewood. The oiler parts for the 076 are getting harder to find because they are NLA. I'd say I agree with you Timberframe. I like driving a car without any extras there's less to go wrong.


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## Timberframed (Mar 21, 2011)

Betterbuilt, Rig the oil tank filler with a standard spigot thread and put an ICS bar on it. Stihl 090 mount. With a twinmax diamond chain you're ready to slab stone! That's really all there is to it. When you think about it that's what our ancestors did for thousands of years. Put rocks and trees together to build places like this.



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And this



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Yet Mother Nature did it like this



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## Trever (Mar 22, 2011)

betterbuilt said:


> Mine doesn't need drilled, that plate was covering the hole. The hole is a little smaller than an 1/8 inch. I'll get some pics of the hole.
> 
> We were rotating about every 60 to 90 days back then. I miss it a little. Don't forget to drink water. Take care of yourself and get home safe. You'll be in my thoughts. Bill


 
Thanks Bill. Have a blessed day.

Trever


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## john taliaferro (Mar 22, 2011)

Thanks Betterbuilt , how hard is is it to find the studs and cyl kit. the 51 would be home on a 36" mill though just stock . Ive put it on my 60 " in oak and it just needs more torque . what is the 160th


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## betterbuilt (Mar 22, 2011)

john taliaferro said:


> Thanks Betterbuilt , how hard is is it to find the studs and cyl kit. the 51 would be home on a 36" mill though just stock . Ive put it on my 60 " in oak and it just needs more torque . what is the 160th


 
The studs are not hard to get. There's tons of burned up TS760 around. The cylinders run from 150 for after market to 380 for OEM. I'm trying one of each and I'll let you know how they work. I'm pretty impressed with the aftermarket one I have so far. The 160th is a Army Special Operations Aviation Regiment. The movie Black Hawk Down was made about them.


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## zogger (Mar 23, 2011)

*truck jack*



Trever said:


> You're very welcome. I will get someone to video my using it sometime. I am on the lookout for a Hi Lift jack now!! I need to get these logs off the ground. I am researching a few posts on this.



I haven't done any milling yet, but I routinely lift up multiple ton firewood logs with a twenty dollar three ton truck jack. If you went a few more bucks you could get one of the low profile flatter ones that have a larger lifting head and you don't need as much clearance under the log to get started. 

Now if I screwed up and it don't land on cross branches I have laid out, or if it is a blowdown, and is flat on the ground to start, yes, that sucks, but all you need is a shovel and a pick at one end. Once you get the clearance, then slip some stout boards under there (the jack needs lateral support so it don't sink into the ground), then slide in the jack, center as dead on as you can, then pick it up, block it with wood chunks, let it down, move it. Just go back and forth down the log then. I always try to raise my logs before cross cutting.

Another trick is take a hardwood branch chunk, and cut it at a sharp angle, then you can use it as a giant wedge and sledge hammer that thing under the log (start at the light end obviously). Surprisingly easy and effective if the branch is nice and strong and don't bust on ya...you can work both sides right next to each other as well, to get an even lift and minimize log scooting or rolling with one home made wedge being just a scosh narrower and sharper than the other, put that one on the smaller end of the log side.

From there, just work back and forth with some more cut branch pieces like that, increasing in size, until you can get the jack under it.


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## betterbuilt (Mar 23, 2011)

I use a floor jack for all my log lifting. Its slow but it works.


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## john taliaferro (Mar 24, 2011)

we use one of the 6 ton high lift , i cut a notch in the top third of the log that keeps it from roiling , tip of the bar and 1/2" deep . Ive added a 8"x10" x1/4" flat plate with some weld bead to the bottom of the jack. works rely sweet, but very heavy. Better built the house camo ? i missed it the first time saw the chair


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## betterbuilt (Mar 24, 2011)

john taliaferro said:


> we use one of the 6 ton high lift , i cut a notch in the top third of the log that keeps it from roiling , tip of the bar and 1/2" deep . Ive added a 8"x10" x1/4" flat plate with some weld bead to the bottom of the jack. works rely sweet, but very heavy. Better built the house camo ? i missed it the first time saw the chair


 
That's Kirkeg's House its tucked in to some hemlocks. His house is pretty cool it's straw bale and it has a rocket stove. He can heat it for a week with what I use in a day and my wood stove is pretty efficient.


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