# How to sharpen Maul and ax with files



## Wildeman (Jan 18, 2013)

I have been convinced that I must split my wood by hand and buy a fiskers splitting maul, i have a 8 bl and 6 bl that i got from my dad and father in law when they passed away and neither had used wood in years and both mauls DULL and NICKED (I did most of the damage on one). So, How do I sharpen my Maul and ax with files and what type of files do i need (bastard???) what is that.opcorn:


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## gregfox (Jan 18, 2013)

Use a grinder and put a sharp edge on it.


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## Wildeman (Jan 18, 2013)

gregfox said:


> Use a grinder and put a sharp edge on it.



I saw online somewhere that the grinder will temper the metal and that is bad. That said i really know nothing about nothing when it comes to this.


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## CTYank (Jan 18, 2013)

Wildeman said:


> I saw online somewhere that the grinder will temper the metal and that is bad. That said i really know nothing about nothing when it comes to this.



Yeah, everything you hear on the Internet is true. 

Starting with a chubby-cheeked bludgeon maul, to reshape it for effective wood-splitting:
I clamp a maul on its side in a "work-mate" or such and do one face at a time with a 6" disc grinder. *You keep it moving*, eh. The goal: a relatively flat face with a moderately sharp edge. Couple of minor nicks, no problem.

Coarse rigid disc first, progressing to flexible discs- coarse, then fine. Take it easy and keep the temps down.

Both the shape and the edge are important, IMHO. You can easily make a cheapie maul work much better than a Fiskars, and with much greater expected longevity. Tactics and accuracy are much more important than brute force.


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## Incomplete (Jan 18, 2013)

Wildeman said:


> I saw online somewhere that the grinder will temper the metal and that is bad. That said i really know nothing about nothing when it comes to this.



Grinder's super heat the metal and DE-temper, or removes the temper, from the edge. 

All you need to know, right here:

http://youtu.be/I55QyJXHk2E

As the mauls are old, they should be properly formed: the cheeks of the blade should be tapered. Most modern American mauls are completely worthless off the shelf, and if you have to radically alter them, a total waist of time. The same goes for axes and hatchets. Many formerly great american traditional tools are being drop poured in Mexico. 

Go here: http://www.helkonorthamerica.com/

And here: http://www.treestuff.com/store/products.asp?category_id=279

for your striking tools if you don't have a local lumber jack supply store. And I found my axe stone at Bass Pro of all places after searching high and low for it on the internets


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## FLHX Storm (Jan 18, 2013)

If the nicks aren't too bad, a bastard or flat metal file will do the trick. Most tend to go from the handle towards the edge, but I like to go from one side of the edge to the other using my thumb as a guide to achieve the proper angle and usually end up with a fairly sharp edge just from that. Then follow through with an axe sharpener to finish the edge. 

Others like to use a grinder but personally I think those are too aggressive since it could tend to overheat the edge of the axe. Keep in mind, heat tempers, and it is also heat that removes the temper. So if your going to use a grinder be sure to keep the head cool by keeping some cold water handy to periodically dip the head in periodically. 

Others like to use a course sharpening stone. Feathering it towards the edge. 

All the methods work, but it's up to you to figure which one will work the best for you.


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## FLHX Storm (Jan 18, 2013)

These are my chopping n splitting implements. Each has it's purpose and in some cases multiple purposes. N for CTYank, yep, there stands my beloved FISKARS of which you so despise! 

Each have been recently sharpened with the method I described as my preference. If you want real closeups of the axe or hatchet heads, just ask. 

View attachment 274160
View attachment 274161


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 18, 2013)

*Unless you are using a chopping ax*

don't worry about ruining the temper, splitting tools are seldom hardened that much. That's why a trip into the dirt (rocks) causes a dent type of nick instead of a chip as a good ax would. Grinding for 5 or 10 min to improve the shape of a tool makes more sense, to me, than laying out big bucks or spending lots of time with a file. I use a 4 inch angle grinder, then finish with a bench grinder.

Money spent on a 15 dollar mex or chink maul is money going out of the country, just less than 200 going to Europe!:sure:


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## NDtreehugger (Jan 18, 2013)

I use a 1" belt sander to re shape and sharpen. it takes more time then a grinder but it leaves no deap scratches.


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## Nosmo (Jan 18, 2013)

*What Can I Use ???*

You can use a file on your axe and it will work but also take up more of your time. Another method would be the sharpening tool made by Fiskars . I can't comment on how well it works but I suspect it works well just by judging their other products.

Here is what I'd use and I do use it to sharpen my axes and my commerical size zero turn mower's blades. I use an angle grinder with a flap disc. Running it on a slow speed will not blue the edges and a person can put a razor's edge on one if that fine an edge is wanted.

Nosmo


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## vincem77 (Jan 18, 2013)

I learned from an old timer to take the knife edge off my axe and it seems to last much longer betweeen filings for splitting. Hard to describe but I run my file perpendicular to the axe first so that it doesnt have a very thin edge that is prone to roll over. Then file normally to get it somewhat sharp but with a thicker cutting edge and it lasts longer. If you were sharpening a competition axe this would not work very well, but for splitting it helps it last alot longer.


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## mountainmandan (Jan 18, 2013)

You are not going to change the temper with a grinder if you make light passes. If you do heat it up enough, you will see a color change, but don't worry, it will just be superficial, and if you wait just a little bit, you can remove the blued metal.

Question, do you guys think all commercial axes, knives and mauls are hand sharpened? Not likely, the people who sharpen them know how to do it without changing the temper. 

So don't worry too much about it and if you get a little too aggressive, you can always go back and fix it.

Besides, if it is quick and easy to sharpen, instead of a chore, you will keep your tools in better condition, and work will be easier.

Dan


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## kwalshy (Jan 18, 2013)

To put a new edge on I use a Dremel.

To sharpen the existing edge I use a hand file.

If the edge is FUBAR I use the grinding wheel.

I've never experienced any issues using the above methods.


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## macattack_ga (Jan 18, 2013)

I've had good results with a flap disc / angle grinder.


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## ChrisHager (Jan 18, 2013)

I guess if it gets too bad, you could always heat 'er up and re-forge it!



As per the Fiskars sharpening device, I have one and it does a pretty good job I'd say. I've dinged my blade a few times - I haven't sharpened them out yet but I always pass the blade through the sharpener before and after splitting, sometimes during depending on the day. If you sharpen your blade often, it only takes a couple minutes to keep a fine edge.


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## zogger (Jan 18, 2013)

I used to work in a woodshop that had a lot of lathes. The knives were sharpened by a dedicated tool guy, that was his only job. He had a bench with a huge assortment of grinders setup, various wheels. Everything you can imagine. Everyone there brought in knives, axes, scissors, etc and he would sharpen them. He just looked at it, went to the appropriate grinder to start, and finished everything with a rouge wheel. 

I gave him my generic axe which I had about wore out trying to split dutch elm...two minutes later he brings it back better than factory new sharp. Really, like two minutes from walking away to his little shop to walking back, he knew his stuff.


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## Whitespider (Jan 18, 2013)

I sharpen axes, mauls and hatchets with a bastard file, and then finish with a stone... grinders are used only for re-shaping, then the file and stone finish. A maul is a large hunk of steel and would take a lot of grinding before challenging the temper... except close to the cutting edge. Grinding the cutting edge on any cutting tool will ruin it's ability to "hold" the edge.


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## kd460 (Jan 18, 2013)

I have reshaped old worn out axe heads with a hand held grinder and flapper wheel, as well as some work with a belt sander. Never had a problem with losing the temper.

A bastard file works great for keeping axes sharp. I usually hit them after each splitting/chopping session. I work the file to the bit (sharp edge) to the poll (the back or butt of the axe head). If you have a good file it don't take much and you can feel when your working the file correctly (just like sharpening a chain, you know when the file is working/cutting right). Stay on top of keeping an edge on it and keeping them sharp will be easy. KD


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## STIHLCRAZYBOY (Jan 18, 2013)

If you want some more info, go on youtube and look up how to sharpen an axe by wranglerstar. He uses the bastard file and a sharpening stone.


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## Iron Head (Jan 18, 2013)

macattack_ga said:


> I've had good results with a flap disc / angle grinder.


I'm a flap disc nut. I love them. A few light passes with an angle grinder and then fine tune with a water stone.
Wipe down with corrosionX and I'm in business.


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## SPDRMNKY (Jan 18, 2013)

if I have to take off a lot of metal to correct/minimize damage, I'll make light passes with a course disc on an angle grinder...just get in a rhythm. I actually use an 18V cordless angle grinder...sometimes frustrating, but I find it's much harder to get in a hurry and detemper an edge with it.

then/otherwise I use a bastard (flat) file sized for the tool. grip with both hands and push along the edge, with my left hand leading the right (vice versa for south paws)...leaves a smoother surface, and much easier to see if your angle is correct

lastly, I debur the edge with a piece of emory cloth (found in the plumbing section). I'll also soften the edge on soft-metal tools (mauls)...the edges do last longer that way.

and then, only on my fiskars splitting axes, I'll make several rapid passes with their sharpener (held upside down)...even pressure.

all this done in good light, with the head of the tool clamped in a vise, edge up. I stand roughly 45 off of looking straight down the edge. just pivot the vise as needed. I find it comfortable to have the vise at chest height.


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## CTYank (Jan 25, 2013)

FLHX Storm said:


> These are my chopping n splitting implements. Each has it's purpose and in some cases multiple purposes. N for CTYank, yep, there stands my beloved FISKARS of which you so despise!
> 
> Each have been recently sharpened with the method I described as my preference. If you want real closeups of the axe or hatchet heads, just ask.
> 
> ...



Nope, don't despise them. Rather, laugh at the lousy metallurgy, and those susceptible to mass-marketing. And try to suggest greatly superior alternatives. Of which, there are many.

Std 'murican purchasing behavior- buy cheap, then buy often. What's love got to do with it?

Sharpening a maul? Are you serious? :msp_smile:


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## woodchuck357 (Jan 25, 2013)

*Sharpen knives, axes and hatchets*



Whitespider said:


> I sharpen axes, mauls and hatchets with a bastard file, and then finish with a stone... Grinding the cutting edge on any cutting tool will ruin it's ability to "hold" the edge.



to a fine edge, not wedges, mauls and froes. They aren't cutting tools, they are dividing tools. They are made of softer steel and can be ground with much less care.

Axes and knives are cutting tools that can be used be used for dividing (splitting). You could shave with most of my cutting tools. My mauls and wedges are "dull as a froe".


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## Marc (Jan 25, 2013)

I sharpen my Sager ax with a Lansky puck dual grit oil stone. Small circular motion like waxing a car. Square and round point shovels get this and the maul occasionally. The coarse grit will take any bad nicks out of the maul edge. I never feel the need to sharpen splitting wedges.


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## Iska3 (Jan 25, 2013)

+1 

Yep! Lot of good and not so good info so far. For my splitting axe I use a file to even out the face/edge. I think the OP is talking about re-shap'n his mauls and axe to take out the nicks. I'd use a file on the edges and call it good for splitting I doesn't need to be sharp like a knife. It's true the factory has to grind down the material to put on an edge but they use wet grinders to keep the material cool. 




Whitespider said:


> I sharpen axes, mauls and hatchets with a bastard file, and then finish with a stone... grinders are used only for re-shaping, then the file and stone finish. A maul is a large hunk of steel and would take a lot of grinding before challenging the temper... *except close to the cutting edge. Grinding the cutting edge on any cutting tool will ruin it's ability to "hold" the edge*.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 25, 2013)

Mauls are nasty rude things so I sharpen/shape mine with a grinder. For my axes I use mill and smooth bastard files.


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## Marc (Jan 25, 2013)

Oh yeah, I use the oil stone on my scythes as well. I knew there was something I was leaving out. Yes, I own an FS90, but sometimes I prefer a scythe. 

Lawnmower blades go on the bench grinder.


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## Marc (Jan 25, 2013)

Iska3 said:


> +1
> 
> Yep! Lot of good and not so good info so far. For my splitting axe I use a file to even out the face/edge. I think the OP is talking about re-shap'n his mauls and axe to take out the nicks. I'd use a file on the edges and call it good for splitting I doesn't need to be sharp like a knife. It's true the factory has to grind down the material to put on an edge but they use wet grinders to keep the material cool.



I agree. I feel like the word "temper" is used a lot by some people without really knowing what it means.


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## vincem77 (Jan 25, 2013)

Marc said:


> I agree. I feel like the word "temper" is used a lot by some people without really knowing what it means.



Thats when the axe gets real angry right?


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## tld400 (Jan 25, 2013)

My first splitting device was a 40 dolar collins maul from hardwear store. Tryed using it and what a piece of crap. So I figured heck with spliting by hand and bought a 7 ton electric splitter. It works great but I read for months about the fiskars so I decided since I need some exercise I bought the x27. Since I bought it I havent taken the spliter out of the shed. I like using the x27 and it cost the same as that other piece of junk. you would be better using a hatchet than that maul I bought.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 25, 2013)

tld400 said:


> My first splitting device was a 40 dolar collins maul from hardwear store. Tryed using it and what a piece of crap. So I figured heck with spliting by hand and bought a 7 ton electric splitter. It works great but I read for months about the fiskars so I decided since I need some exercise I bought the x27. Since I bought it I havent taken the spliter out of the shed. I like using the x27 and it cost the same as that other piece of junk. you would be better using a hatchet than that maul I bought.


I have an 8lb Collins maul with a wooden handle. I had to reshape the front edge a little, but it works well for a maul. I would have preferred a 6lb but my wife picked it out . I figure she was trying to wear me out so I wouldn't be a pest. I swing it fast like an axe, and it really take the energy out of me, but it does work.


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## CTYank (Jan 25, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> I have an 8lb Collins maul with a wooden handle. I had to reshape the front edge a little, but it works well for a maul. I would have preferred a 6lb but my wife picked it out . I figure she was trying to wear me out so I wouldn't be a pest. I swing it fast like an axe, and it really take the energy out of me, but it does work.



Among others, I've a Bradlees special 8 lb maul. Was an instrument of torture- way too obtuse at the edge, and really "chubby" cheeks near the edge. Very difficult to split anything with it.

After using Austrian maul, I took a disc grinder to the 8 lb (and 2-5 lb mauls) to emulate the head shape of the Austrian Mueller. Took a while to slim down the cheeks, not long to give them an edge. Made them MUCH more effective than before. Still the 8 lb is noticeably less productive than the 5 lb ones. The 8 lb is now effectively a sledge with a pointy end. Sweet spot is around 5 lb.

The lighter ones don't de-energize you at all like the 8lb. If you're really bringing it. You might want to consider some cellulite reduction on the maul face; I'd do it in a heartbeat.


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## tld400 (Jan 25, 2013)

WoodHeatWarrior said:


> I have an 8lb Collins maul with a wooden handle. I had to reshape the front edge a little, but it works well for a maul. I would have preferred a 6lb but my wife picked it out . I figure she was trying to wear me out so I wouldn't be a pest. I swing it fast like an axe, and it really take the energy out of me, but it does work.



The one I have is a 6lb with fiberglass handle. id a little reshape too but its not in the same league as the fiskars or even a axe with a small curved handle. It just bounces of thewood. I think it wood need alot of metal shaved off of it to make it better.


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## c5rulz (Jan 26, 2013)

Angle grinder with coarse sandpaper will make axes scary sharp and not heat up the head.:jester:


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## faststihl (Jan 27, 2013)

My vote goes with the flap disk on a 4" grinder. I put the axe to be sharpened in a vice so the head is held horizontal, and use slow light strokes to polish up the edge. Turn over and repeat. Keep the temps low by not rushing or heavy cuts.

I am always VERY careful with the direction of the flap rotation, and not snagging it on the axe anywhere and it flying out of my hand.....


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