# Woodshed slat spacing



## USMC0802 (Aug 28, 2014)

I'm about to finish up a wood shed and want to confirm a few things. The shed is really just a support to hold up a steel roof so I don't have to deal with tarps ripping every year, digging off the snow and ice, etc. It's 5' x 20', long side facing south/southeast. Rain and snow typically come from the west. I have 4x4s every 5' lengthwise, and three posts at each "row." The idea was to have four bays to stack the wood. I go through a bit over three cords per year and want to have an extra cord plus that will season longer than the rest to start the burning season with or should someone ever turn off the global warming switch, I'll have extra for a longer/colder winter.

I'm going to be putting green wood the "shed" next year and want to make sure I get enough air flow through it to season the wood. I have my 4x4s in the ground, gravel spread for the "floor" and about to put up the slats. I keep seeing different posts about no slats, just a couple, 6" between them, etc.

Are 2x6's overkill for the slats? If so, 2x4s? They're going to be holding the outward pressure of the stacks and tie the 4x4 posts together. What spacing to allow good air flow? I'm going to roll a tarp down on the western side and probably the open front during the winter or if there are days of rain in the forecast. Roof is 8' sheets with about 1' overhang in the rear and 2' in the front, minus the loss to the slope.

Used these two as an idea to start from, but they all look significantly deeper than 5':










Could run three 2x6s across the top, middle, and bottom and then a 2x4 vertically to contain the rows like this:


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## svk (Aug 28, 2014)

Either 4" or 6" side boards would be fine. Space them out as much as possible to allow airflow. The guy in the thrd picture looks to have about 16-18" spacing and the shed still has plenty of support. Since you are putting green wood in the shed I would go more towards this spacing versus the first two pictures. 

Good looking buildings though.


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## svk (Aug 28, 2014)

Also FWIW the sheds I have seen used 1" lumber for the slats versus 2" but if you dont mind the extra cost it is never a bad idea to over build.


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## USMC0802 (Aug 28, 2014)

svk said:


> Also FWIW the sheds I have seen used 1" lumber for the slats versus 2" but if you dont mind the extra cost it is never a bad idea to over build.



I was thinking the 2" boards were the way to go since that was my strength/support holding the 4x4s together to support the roof. They'll provide the rigidity since nothing else is connecting the structure. I have the 6" boards already, so I'll likely just stick with those. I am tempted to pick up a few 4" boards to run one vertically between each 4x4. Otherwise, I've got roughly a 2-2.5' gap between the 4x4s and I'm trying to put three rows deep in the shed. If I go 16-18" between the horizontal 2x6s, I'm wondering if splits will squeeze out.


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## svk (Aug 28, 2014)

USMC0802 said:


> I am tempted to pick up a few 4" boards to run one vertically between each 4x4. Otherwise, I've got roughly a 2-2.5' gap between the 4x4s and I'm trying to put three rows deep in the shed. If I go 16-18" between the horizontal 2x6s, I'm wondering if splits will squeeze out.


Wouldn't be a bad idea and would make stacking quicker.


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## 1project2many (Aug 28, 2014)

I did it differently. The shed floor is between 12" and 20" off the ground and built of 5/8 deck board with 1" spaces between. The siding is 2' X 8' sheet of plywood that overlap about 2" like shingles. The overlapping piece is spaced away from the piece below by 3/4" to 1". Something like this:

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This keeps leaves, water, snow, etc off the wood while allowing convection to draw air from outside to flow over the stacks. I actually stack right against the walls with 1-2" between rows so most of the air moves between the rows. I store about 3 cord in each shed and I have no issues with the wood not drying.


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## USMC0802 (Aug 28, 2014)

1project2many said:


> I did it differently. The shed floor is between 12" and 20" off the ground and built of 5/8 deck board with 1" spaces between. The siding is 2' X 8' sheet of plywood that overlap about 2" like shingles. The overlapping piece is spaced away from the piece below by 3/4" to 1". Something like this:
> 
> ```
> |
> ...



Do you have a picture or a link to a build thread? That eliminates the need to roll a tarp up and down on the western side.


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## 1project2many (Aug 28, 2014)

I'll try to get some pictures tonight. I had some in the woodshed thread but they're gone now.


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## Whitespider (Aug 28, 2014)

USMC0802 said:


> _*I'm going to be putting green wood the "shed" next year...*_



No friggin' way I'd put "green" wood under a roof or cover... no friggin' way‼
A woodshed is for fully seasoned firewood... it flat takes longer for firewood to season under a roof or cover, no matter how much "ventilation" you provide. And besides, typically a person wants to get as much as possible in the shed... meaning you typically butt the stacks to each other, slowing the seasoning process even more. Moisture evaporation (seasoning) requires energy... the natural source of that energy is sunlight not wind (or ventilation), the wind just carries away what energy evaporates (i.e., the moisture laden air is replaced with dryer air, but the amount of moisture the air can hold is increased by temperature... the temperature of air is increased by energy, a.k.a., sunlight). Why anyone would block any of the available energy just baffles me beyond comprehension.
*


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## zogger (Aug 28, 2014)

You could build it tight then spend a leisurely weekend swiss cheesing it for target practice...keep shootin until there's enough holes in it!

..just sayin....


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## svk (Aug 28, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> No friggin' way I'd put "green" wood under a roof or cover... no friggin' way‼
> A woodshed is for fully seasoned firewood... it flat takes longer for firewood to season under a roof or cover, no matter how much "ventilation" you provide. And besides, typically a person wants to get as much as possible in the shed... meaning you typically butt the stacks to each other, slowing the seasoning process even more. Moisture evaporation (seasoning) requires energy... the natural source of that energy is sunlight not wind (or ventilation), the wind just carries away what energy evaporates (i.e., the moisture laden air is replaced with dryer air, but the amount of moisture the air can hold is increased by temperature... the temperature of air is increased by energy, a.k.a., sunlight). Why anyone would block any of the available energy just baffles me beyond comprehension.
> *


You are absolutely right it will take longer. But for the non-connoisseur of firewood, I'd say the majority would rather stack it once under a roof even if it takes another year to season versus stack in the open and move to the shed later.


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## Whitespider (Aug 28, 2014)

svk said:


> _*...the majority would rather stack it once under a roof even if it takes another year to season versus stack in the open and move to the shed later.*_



That's exactly why I skip the whole woodshed program altogether 
*


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## svk (Aug 28, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> That's exactly why I skip the whole woodshed program altogether
> *


Well most of us aren't lucky enough to have a big farmhouse basement that can hold most of a winter's supply of wood.


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## lefturnfreek (Aug 29, 2014)

Basement, I have sheds that won't hold my winter supply....


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 29, 2014)

Any of the designs have plenty of ventilation. What they don't have, and should, is diagonal bracing. Those little ones in front up at the roof line are way insufficient. My woodshed (holds only well seasoned wood so no ventilation slots) has cut in 1x4 bracs as a "v" from floor to roof on the back and both end walls. I can't get a picture of them as the shed is now full again for the 14-15 season.

Wind, and stacks of wood that never quit "working", exert an amazing amount of force.

Harry K


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## Samuel22250 (Aug 29, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> No friggin' way I'd put "green" wood under a roof or cover... no friggin' way‼
> A woodshed is for fully seasoned firewood... it flat takes longer for firewood to season under a roof or cover, no matter how much "ventilation" you provide. And besides, typically a person wants to get as much as possible in the shed... meaning you typically butt the stacks to each other, slowing the seasoning process even more. Moisture evaporation (seasoning) requires energy... the natural source of that energy is sunlight not wind (or ventilation), the wind just carries away what energy evaporates (i.e., the moisture laden air is replaced with dryer air, but the amount of moisture the air can hold is increased by temperature... the temperature of air is increased by energy, a.k.a., sunlight). Why anyone would block any of the available energy just baffles me beyond comprehension.
> *


I just looked up how much rain Iowa gets and it is less than 1/2 of the rain I get and looking at the temps it looks like most of that would fall as snow.

Some places need to have a roof over the wood to keep it dry and to stop it going moldy.


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## slowp (Aug 29, 2014)

The world is not Iowa. I could live on the other side of the mountains and probably get by OK without any cover and the firewood left outside.

My green firewood seasons fine in a COVERED on the top stack. With a constant drizzling sky for 9 months, one has to cover it. Do what is right for YOUR climate, not Iowa's.

I did put green wood in my woodshed, and that was a mistake. But my "woodshed" is a solid sided wooden building. I did expose 3 feet of one side to the air, and drilled large holes near the eaves, but it wasn't enough for green wood. I merely restacked it, outdoors and COVERED it to finish the drying. Everything dries slowly in our temperate rainforest. 

Another thing to check on, if you live in the dry woods, are building codes. Many counties are requiring wood sheds to be built farther from the house and have metal roofs. It's a fire prevention thing. For example, a friend had to move their woodshed, there was no grandfathering in, so it was 300 feet away from the house. It already had the metal roof. 

Don't move here. You'll need to cover your firewood green or not.


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## USMC0802 (Aug 29, 2014)

Whitespider said:


> No friggin' way I'd put "green" wood under a roof or cover... no friggin' way‼
> A woodshed is for fully seasoned firewood... it flat takes longer for firewood to season under a roof or cover, no matter how much "ventilation" you provide. And besides, typically a person wants to get as much as possible in the shed... meaning you typically butt the stacks to each other, slowing the seasoning process even more. Moisture evaporation (seasoning) requires energy... the natural source of that energy is sunlight not wind (or ventilation), the wind just carries away what energy evaporates (i.e., the moisture laden air is replaced with dryer air, but the amount of moisture the air can hold is increased by temperature... the temperature of air is increased by energy, a.k.a., sunlight). Why anyone would block any of the available energy just baffles me beyond comprehension.
> *



I get enough rain in SE/central PA that it has to be covered. It's too humid in the summer for it to get rained on and dry out without rotting. Some (maybe not most) aren't stupid enough to cram wood in tight under a roof and cover 3-4 sides and expect green wood to season.

I'm looking to simply keep the rain/snow off the top. When I stack my wood to season it, I cover the top with a tarp and let a bit overlap the sides by a few inches to let the moisture/rain/dew drip off the sides. It seasons just fine. My shed is deep enough to allow space between the three rows of splits I'm going to put in it. My wood pile has been stacked long and skinny because of the shape of the property, the bank behind the wood pile, etc. The face of the pile gets loads of sun and I've never had a problem with the wood drying sufficiently for my stove to burn and heat well. The "shed" more like a pavilion style building, is going to be the same long, skinny shape to allow for the sun to beat on it and lengthen the stacks, rather than bury wood in the middle.

I also don't normally fire up the stove until well into November. It puts off too much heat if the temp is above 40-42. And that temp works fine for the heat pump. Below that is when the pump just isn't efficient enough and the stove keeps the house comfortable, rather than a sauna. What I'm getting at I have a lengthy amount of time each year to let the wood season.


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## hardpan (Aug 29, 2014)

Our wood sheds and wood storage in general can vary greatly. I can think of a few reasons off the top of my head.
1. How much rain
2. What is the relative humidity
3. How much wind and what is the orientation to the shed
4. Temperature
5. How long does it take to totally consume a full shed
6. Floor or not, ventilated or not
7. Wood cut when the sap is up or down
8. What kind of wood, ash has much less moisture than most
9. Is the bark on or off
10. Large rounds or small splits
11. Outside wood burner or inside, OWB seems to be more forgiving of green wood and the creosote is less likely to burn down the house
12. Is the storage location in the sun or shade

I'm sure there are more and I'm sure my set-up is much less than perfect. We do with what we have.


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## 1project2many (Aug 29, 2014)

> Moisture evaporation (seasoning) requires energy... the natural source of that energy is sunlight not wind (or ventilation),... but the amount of moisture the air can hold is increased by temperature... the temperature of air is increased by energy, a.k.a., sunlight). Why anyone would block any of the available energy just baffles me beyond comprehension.



Sunshine is good for drying but the infra red energy it produces does not significantly heat air. It heats the wood and the moisture inside. Moisture turns to vapor as the heat energy it contains transfers to the air provided moisture content of air is low enough. With this mechanism in mind you can design a very effective shed.

A well designed shed will dry wood as quickly as sun alone by putting the energy to work over all the wood. Temperature differentials on warm days cause air to move across the ends. The stack temperature changes slower than air temperature which can cause air movement and if the air is dry enough, evaporation. As long as the relative moisture content is low enough, the wood dries. Drying in a shed has the added advantage of keeping the wood from picking up moisture from rain &etc, from rot due to leaf accumulation, from having to pick up a stack that's blown over. When I had one shed I would have it refilled by beginning of June, often working through weeks of rainy weather, and would begin burning by the end of October. I mix all sorts of hardwood from Birch to Oak to Ash to Maple so the results aren't species specific. On average we get more annual rainfall than Seattle but my firewood dried in time to burn.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 30, 2014)

1project2many said:


> [qoute] Moisture evaporation (seasoning) requires energy... the natural source of that energy is sunlight not wind (or ventilation),... but the amount of moisture the air can hold is increased by temperature... the temperature of air is increased by energy, a.k.a., sunlight). Why anyone would block any of the available energy just baffles me beyond comprehension.



Sunshine is good for drying but the infra red energy it produces does not significantly heat air. It heats the wood and the moisture inside. Moisture turns to vapor as the heat energy it contains transfers to the air provided moisture content of air is low enough. With this mechanism in mind you can design a very effective shed.

A well designed shed will dry wood as quickly as sun alone by putting the energy to work over all the wood. Temperature differentials on warm days cause air to move across the ends. The stack temperature changes slower than air temperature which can cause air movement and if the air is dry enough, evaporation. As long as the relative moisture content is low enough, the wood dries. Drying in a shed has the added advantage of keeping the wood from picking up moisture from rain &etc, from rot due to leaf accumulation, from having to pick up a stack that's blown over. When I had one shed I would have it refilled by beginning of June, often working through weeks of rainy weather, and would begin burning by the end of October. I mix all sorts of hardwood from Birch to Oak to Ash to Maple so the results aren't species specific. On average we get more annual rainfall than Seattle but my firewood dried in time to burn.[/QUOTE]

Yep. "sun on the wood" is overrated. The sun only hits one end and the top layer, air movement gets everything

Harry K.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Aug 30, 2014)

That shed in the last pic would be a pain to have to constantly climb up and down.


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## v8titan (Aug 30, 2014)

I season all my wood for two years. Wood is in single row stacks and I don't have the luxury of all these stacks being in the sun, actually most is in the shade. The first year I leave the wood uncovered, the second year I cover the top row with tarp strips that keep the rain and snow from infiltrating the stacks. Works for me here in central Jersey. I have a moisture meter and all my wood including red oak will be at 20% MC or less after 2 year using this method.


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## 1project2many (Aug 30, 2014)




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## USMC0802 (Aug 30, 2014)

Definitely not interested in building a climbing wall for my shed.

I'm ready to put the roof on it and the 8' panels I have recommend a 3/12 pitch, but less is acceptable depending on application. I'm obviously not going to run a gutter, so there won't be anything there to stop the snow or allow it to build up.

My 4x4s and where the yellow pine 2x6s fall don't line up with the seams in the panels, so I'm going to put 2x6s at each of the 5 4x4s, at the two ends of the roof, and then put 2x4s every 18" to support the roof panels/overlaps.

That's seems like plenty of support and strength for a 24' roof. I'm wondering if I can get away with a 1/6 or so. It would allow me a bit more height under the roof and an easier finish to the build.


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## USMC0802 (Sep 1, 2014)

Well...it's up. Finished the last five roof panels this morning and I started stacking this afternoon. I'm loving that the stacks just about can't fall over. Enough room for about 3-4" between rows.


I don't have enough room for two years worth of wood, but I should be able to get 1 1/3 to 1.5 years worth. The wood I stack in it next March will have about 11 months before I burn it.


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## BillNole (Sep 1, 2014)

USMC0802 said:


> Well...it's up. Finished the last five roof panels this morning and I started stacking this afternoon. I'm loving that the stacks just about can't fall over. Enough room for about 3-4" between rows.
> 
> 
> I don't have enough room for two years worth of wood, but I should be able to get 1 1/3 to 1.5 years worth. The wood I stack in it next March will have about 11 months before I burn it.



Uhmmmm... Are you forgetting something? Pics?


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## USMC0802 (Sep 1, 2014)

It's solid. I can easily fit a cord per bay and probably a bit more if I go all the way to the roof. Between the 15 4x4s sunk in concrete, 2x6s all the way around, 7 2x6 rafters, 14 2x4 rafters, and 40 screws per 3'x8' roof panel, it's solid. I'm going to put supports from the posts to the rafters and I'm going to put a small shelf on the side opposite of the direction of typical wind to store kindling. Also going to put a flashing/cap on the 2x6 to keep the rain off of it on the front. We don't get a lot of strong wind here and if we get something strong enough to tear this thing apart, I'll be more worried about my house.


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## svk (Sep 1, 2014)

USMC0802 said:


> It's solid. Between the 15 4x4s sunk in concrete, 2x6s all the way around, 7 2x6 rafters, 14 2x4 rafters, and 40 screws per 3'x8' roof panel, it's solid. I'm going to put supports from the posts to the rafters and I'm going to put a small shelf on the side opposite of the direction of typical wind to store kindling. I can easily fit a cord per bay and probably a bit more if I go all the way to the roof.
> 
> Also going to put a flashing/cap on the 2x6 to keep the rain off of it on the front.


Very nice. 

If I provide beer and lots of good food will you build one at my place?


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## zogger (Sep 1, 2014)

Looks good to me!


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## USMC0802 (Sep 1, 2014)

svk said:


> Very nice.
> 
> If I provide beer and lots of good food will you build one at my place?



How far are you from Bemidji? I built most of it with my father in law. Good times with him. My folks were in Ireland for the Penn State game. Going to guilt them into helping stack all the wood.


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## USMC0802 (Sep 1, 2014)

zogger said:


> Looks good to me!



Thanks, it will looks better when all the weeds around it are cleaned up, it's full of 4+ cords of wood, and I have some sort of shovelable path/walkway to it and in front of it.


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## svk (Sep 1, 2014)

USMC0802 said:


> How far are you from Bemidji? I built most of it with my father in law. Good times with him. My folks were in Ireland for the Penn State game. Going to guilt them into helping stack all the wood.


I'm about two and a half hours east of there.


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## USMC0802 (Sep 1, 2014)

svk said:


> I'm about two and a half hours east of there.



I used to live in New London. My sister married a guy and recently moved to Bemidji. Easy build, let me know if you want/need any details.


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## mn woodcutter (Sep 1, 2014)

It looks very nice and expensive. I try not to spend money on firewood or the storage of it. It definitely looks nicer than what I use and you did a great job building it.


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## USMC0802 (Sep 2, 2014)

mn woodcutter said:


> It looks very nice and expensive. I try not to spend money on firewood or the storage of it. It definitely looks nicer than what I use and you did a great job building it.



It really wasn't that bad. I used less lumber than anticipated and got contractor/cash pricing on the materials. I returned a bunch of unused lumber as I think it ended up around $600. 

I built the shed to make life easier on my wife when in bit around. I was gone for 10 months last year and it makes life easier for her to not have to deal with uncovering and recovering the wood with tarps. It's also quicker and easier to stack and I can't see the stacks falling over. 

I used to cut my own wood, mostly scrounging, but with kids and everything else going on, I just don't have the time nor do I have the space to have logs dumped to cut/split.


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## mn woodcutter (Sep 2, 2014)

Then you made the right choice! Happy wife equals happy life! Also, if you were and are gone serving our country then I thank you!


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## USMC0802 (Sep 2, 2014)

mn woodcutter said:


> Then you made the right choice! Happy wife equals happy life! Also, if you were and are gone serving our country then I thank you!



Thanks. She's a keeper.

Wasn't deployed, but it was orders that had me separated from the family. I was surprised and impressed that my wife wanted to manage heating the house with wood while I was gone and she had the two kids by herself.


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## Brush Ape (Sep 2, 2014)

slowp said:


> The world is not Iowa.



yes it is shut up


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## USMC0802 (Sep 7, 2014)

I have another cord to stack in the open bay. This has been the easiest I've ever stacked wood. The kindling will move once the heating season starts. Found a source I can get wood as I need it pretty cheap and I'll pick it up a cord at a time as I empty a bay.


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