# Where can I order a good quality sawhorse



## coppermouse (May 20, 2008)

Can someone help me out?


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 20, 2008)

How about building one? If you have the tools and the know how, you'll have a much better product than you can buy.

http://www.plansnow.com/sawhorse.html


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## coppermouse (May 20, 2008)

I actually meant the sawbuck type to hold logs.
I thought about making one and still might, but I would like a folding metal one.


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 20, 2008)

Ah! Sorry, I misunderstood. Northern Tool has them. Dunno about the quality.

Search on this site for some ideas for building them. A few of us have done so.


Here's one that I did:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=35417

The pics went away, so you can now find them at:

http://server6.theimagehosting.com/album.php?album=30321

Hope that helps!


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## coppermouse (May 20, 2008)

I looked at the one at Northern and it got bad reviews on their website and looked kinda flimsy


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## logbutcher (May 21, 2008)

Take the advice, build one. Wood ones are better for cutting than steel anyhow, and you build it the way you want. Just some 2-bys, pressure treated if you want, simple joints and construction screws. 
We've made sawhorses out of scrap timber from broken boat cradles.
You can use saplings or thick branches for a sawhorse, notched and tied or nailed. Not difficult.
Then you can stand back with a nice brew to gaze at your skill ......


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## Zodiac45 (May 22, 2008)

Yep build one. It's quite easy too do and you'll have a better sawbuck cause you can make it too the size you want your wood too be cut. Enclosed is picture of one that Splittah made and that I used too make mine.(Thanks Dave!) I only used 3 sets of legs versus the 4 so mines a bit smaller than the one in the pix but it works great. I use 16" wood for my cookstove so that the distance plus an inch that I used between the sets of legs. I also used carriage bolts large washers and locknuts versus the dowels/pegs that Splittah used only because that's what I had handy. I believe I used 60% of the length of the legs as the bolting/sissoring point. So a 30" set of legs would bolt or dowel at 18". I had some old decking boards (2x6s) that I ripped in half but 2x4s are even beefier. Also a wooden sawbuck is preferable too metal for the obvious reasons that eventually/ and more often that you think, you are gonna nick the sawbuck with your chainsaw. You'll be happy it's made of wood then!


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## strongback (May 22, 2008)

I make disposable saw horses out of pallets:

Take a couple pallets, knock off the top few boards of each, lean them together and use the boards you pulled off to nail across the bottom on the ends. It takes about 5 minutes and at least where I am, there are pallets of all sizes seeminlgy everywhere. When I clean up the cutting area I just take the maul to it and throw it in with the other kindling.


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## Macguy (May 24, 2008)

*Wow, that is an impressive sawbuck*



Zodiac45 said:


> Yep build one. It's quite easy too do and you'll have a better sawbuck cause you can make it too the size you want your wood too be cut. Enclosed is picture of one that Splittah made and that I used too make mine.(Thanks Dave!) I only used 3 sets of legs versus the 4 so mines a bit smaller than the one in the pix but it works great. I use 16" wood for my cookstove so that the distance plus an inch that I used between the sets of legs. I also used carriage bolts large washers and locknuts versus the dowels/pegs that Splittah used only because that's what I had handy. I believe I used 60% of the length of the legs as the bolting/sissoring point. So a 30" set of legs would bolt or dowel at 18". I had some old decking boards (2x6s) that I ripped in half but 2x4s are even beefier. Also a wooden sawbuck is preferable too metal for the obvious reasons that eventually/ and more often that you think, you are gonna nick the sawbuck with your chainsaw. You'll be happy it's made of wood then!



 That is a very nice looking sawbuck, I think I will make one like it, hope it is not patented or copyrighted, or trademarked, or ......

Usually I make mine out of slabs from the sawmill and they are rougher than a cob. By the time I am through with them they are almost past kindling, lol. Thanks for the pic


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 24, 2008)

No need for the weight of the 2x4 cross pieces. Mine uses 1x4 cross pieces and has held up just fine. I've tossed in the truck a few times to go other places, and I load it up heavy, so it hasn't been babied.

Here are some pics:

http://server6.theimagehosting.com/album.php?album=30321

And here is the original thread, if you want the 'whys' of the design:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=35417

And here's a PURDY one:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=47715


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## arlen (May 25, 2008)

blue Ridge Mark. 

OK how do you set up your sawhorse so that you are cutting 12" 16" 20" 24" rounds. Do you put a scale on it, or do you cut in the middle of the uprights.

I would like to mostly cut 16" rounds so should I make the inside diameter between uprights 16" and either cut in the middle or near the upright. 

I would like to throw small diameter pieces of wood up on the sawbuck and cut them to length without guessing. Thanks David:monkey:


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## arlen (May 26, 2008)

Zodiac 45 I pretty much copied your design. I used 1/2" carriage bolts 4" long fender washers between the studs. Used all 2 by 4' used the common stud for framing walls 8' high. I looked into 1 by 4"s but they were low quality and more expensive than the 2 by 4"s so I went with all 2 by 4"s I placed the bolts 30" off the floor and cut the length at 44" this left me with an 8" higher back. I nailed the cross bracing 6" off the floor and than measured from the top of the stud 12" for the next brace. I added a stud to the bracing sticking out 4" on the left end and 9 1/2" on the right so I could cut more rounds and keep my cuts more to the middle of the vertical wood. It worked great. I also Incorporated some of BlueRidgesMark's design thanks   David


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## Zodiac45 (May 26, 2008)

arlen said:


> Zodiac 45 I pretty much copied your design. I used 1/2" carriage bolts 4" long fender washers between the studs. Used all 2 by 4' used the common stud for framing walls 8' high. I looked into 1 by 4"s but they were low quality and more expensive than the 2 by 4"s so I went with all 2 by 4"s I placed the bolts 30" off the floor and cut the length at 44" this left me with an 8" higher back. I nailed the cross bracing 6" off the floor and than measured from the top of the stud 12" for the next brace. I added a stud to the bracing sticking out 4" on the left end and 9 1/2" on the right so I could cut more rounds and keep my cuts more to the middle of the vertical wood. It worked great. I also Incorporated some of BlueRidgesMark's design thanks   David



Well done Arlen,

Don't ya love it when you make something that works well! Mine's a little shorter than yours cause I had some 2x6 decking that I ripped for the legs. Think they were 33" or so and I bolted at 18" or about 60 some% of the length. I did have some 1x3 that used across as Mark mentioned for a little weight taken off. I placed the cross pieces so that I could get my saw blade up under if need be. Use a good chain too. My first one was too light and after throwing some large stuff on had spread the links. I replaced it with a beefier one and set it at the ideal spread.   Thanks to Dave (Splittah) for the inspiration.


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## arlen (May 27, 2008)

Zodiac45 said:


> Well done Arlen,
> 
> Don't ya love it when you make something that works well! Mine's a little shorter than yours cause I had some 2x6 decking that I ripped for the legs. Think they were 33" or so and I bolted at 18" or about 60 some% of the length. I did have some 1x3 that used across as Mark mentioned for a little weight taken off. I placed the cross pieces so that I could get my saw blade up under if need be. Use a good chain too. My first one was too light and after throwing some large stuff on had spread the links. I replaced it with a beefier one and set it at the ideal spread.   Thanks to Dave (Splittah) for the inspiration.



I have to admit I used light weight jack chain and putting the rounds up on the saw buck pulled the links apart. So I will have to also go with a sturdier chain  David


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## clearance (May 27, 2008)

Why not just buck the wood on the ground and save effort? Its all I ever do, I cut most of the way in many places, then turn the log and cut through. Ever thought about it?


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## Zodiac45 (May 29, 2008)

Yes I use a timberjack too buck logs on the ground and save my chain from ground strikes, but a sawbuck is always handy too have. I sometimes get a load of sawmill hardwood slabs for my cookstove and it's way easy too take bundles, throw them on the sawbuck, bungy them down and cut em up.


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## coppermouse (May 29, 2008)

Well I like the idea of not constantly bending over, I have a pile of small diameter logs to do, also my partner cut a bunch of logs too long for my stove and I have to cut them a little shorter. It seem a sawbuck would be well suited for this. I am going to make one.


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## SawTroll (May 29, 2008)

coppermouse said:


> I actually meant the sawbuck type to hold logs.
> I thought about making one and still might, but I would like a folding metal one.




No you wouldn't - not after you used it a bit..........:censored:


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 29, 2008)

arlen said:


> blue Ridge Mark.
> 
> OK how do you set up your sawhorse so that you are cutting 12" 16" 20" 24" rounds. Do you put a scale on it, or do you cut in the middle of the uprights.
> 
> ...



I built the sawbuck to do the length I wanted by the spacing of the uprights. I stack the wood so the butt ends are lined up on the left end, then I cut just to the right of the uprights, starting at the right end. THis gives me 18" wood, except for the odd pieces from the ends. Here's what it looks like with a load ready to cut.


Here's a pic that should give you the idea. This is just after the last cut was made. Notice that the spacing of the leftmost two uprights is a tad smaller than the others. That's because You have to allow for the width between the two uprights differently than the others. For 18" wood, the spacing from left edge to left edge of the other uprights is 18", but the last bay is 18" MINUS (two 2x4 thicknesses).

Here's what that looks like:




​
See how the spacing is measured differently for the last two on the left? For the rest of them, you measure from right edge to right edge. For the last set on the left, you measure from right edge to OUTSIDE, or left edge.


BTW, I used carriage head bolts through the Xs, and made sure the carriage head was on the right side of each one, except the far left one. That way, there isn't a bolt and nut sticking out where I'm cutting, nor on that outside left end, where it could catch someone walking too close.


If I get sloppy, I knick the uprights, which is why I wouldn't want one made of metal, and why the direction of the bolts matters, and the side you cut on.

Looky here and you'll see the bolt and nut on the LEFT side of the rightmost uprights.


Hope that helps!


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 29, 2008)

clearance said:


> Why not just buck the wood on the ground and save effort? Its all I ever do, I cut most of the way in many places, then turn the log and cut through. Ever thought about it?



I've thought about it, I've done it. I still do it, with the larger stuff. 

With the smaller stuff, this is less work. Less bending, stooping, and really, less handling of the wood. Loading is quick, and cutting is even quicker. The wood mostly unloads itself, and then the two methods are even - cut wood on the ground, waiting to be stacked.

With my boys helping, I can be stacking while they're picking up, or vice versa. It makes for some very quick work. MUCH faster than doing it on the ground one at a time, and easier on the back.

And with kindling (about 2 inch and up, I don't bother with smaller stuff), it's a night and day difference in speed.

Did I mention that this is MUCH faster?


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## clearance (May 29, 2008)

coppermouse said:


> Well I like the idea of not constantly bending over, I have a pile of small diameter logs to do, also my partner cut a bunch of logs too long for my stove and I have to cut them a little shorter. It seem a sawbuck would be well suited for this. I am going to make one.



Get a longer bar. My 2171 has a 28", my 394 a 30", my 395 a 32".


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## abohac (May 30, 2008)

*Too much work*



clearance said:


> Get a longer bar. My 2171 has a 28", my 394 a 30", my 395 a 32".



Man I'm with you. Those guys seem to be going through a lot of work to cut up a few feet of wood. I guess I'm just lazy. I'll cut mine on the ground and roll it over.


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 31, 2008)

I've done it _both _ways. You guys are doing _more _work, not less. Suit yourself!


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## Wood Doctor (Jun 2, 2008)

*Sawbuck Plans*

Here's the one I built using my own plans. Nothing could be much more simpler or more effective:






The amazing thing about this is that it's a production dream. The four crossed pieces are identical and so are the rails that tie them together. Use some good strong knot-free lumber such as southern yellow pine or pressure treated (hardwood if you can afford it). Rounding the top ends is optional.

Another option is to use just a pair of 2 x 6's located a little lower than the top 2 x 4 pair as shown rather than four 2 x 4s to tie the supports together. Make good joints and do a good job. In the long run, it pays off.


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## ckliff (Nov 24, 2009)

Took down a beautiful baldcypress (HO didn't like the "mess" it makes) and couldn't bear to throw away even the branches. So, been dreaming about having a sawbuck, did a search on AS, and now this is what I have:

<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/?action=view&current=sawbuck2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/sawbuck2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/?action=view&current=sawbuck1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/sawbuck1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Primitive, yet functional! Really boosts productivity. Thanks to all y'all & AS for this informative thread!


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## wkpoor (Nov 24, 2009)

I posted this on the hints thread awhile back.
If you own a splitter you already have a sawbuck of the best kind. Just pinch one end of the log perpindicular against the foot and wedge and wala! Your log is held securely with most or all out in the open to cut. How much can stick out depends on the length and diameter of the log. With my 3pt unit I can hang almost anything out the side. With a stand alone you might want to balance it towards the middle and work off both ends.


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## ckliff (Nov 25, 2009)

When I have the $$$ & space for a splitter I might try that. Meantime, I think 
a sawbuck is great. Can put lotsa logs on there.


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## gr8scott72 (Nov 25, 2009)

I just threw something together with some scrap 2x4s I had laying around:


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## coppermouse (Nov 25, 2009)

I actually ended up making one and it worked out well.


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## savageactor7 (Nov 25, 2009)

If you want to make real production and save your back from unnecessary lifting...learn to tip cut the limbs on the ground. Saw bucks are holdover antiques from the days when you were forced to use hand saws. If you want to get 5 years or so ahead of wood and do this in your 70's you have to be mindful about eliminating ANY extra handling...the body can take just so much.


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## gr8scott72 (Nov 25, 2009)

savageactor7 said:


> If you want to make real production and save your back from unnecessary lifting...learn to tip cut the limbs on the ground. Saw bucks are holdover antiques from the days when you were forced to use hand saws. If you want to get 5 years or so ahead of wood and do this in your 70's you have to be mindful about eliminating ANY extra handling...the body can take just so much.



When you have a large stack of wood to be cut and you cut them where they are, you run into the problem of the cut pieces then being in your way and you end up having to handle them all anyway.

The only time I use the sawhorse is when I have someone helping me. They can grab a log and feed it through the sawhorse while I cut. Then you just end up with one stack of cut logs right where you want them without having to move all the cut pieces.


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## ckliff (Nov 25, 2009)

savageactor7 said:


> If you want to make real production and save your back from unnecessary lifting...learn to tip cut the limbs on the ground.



I hate to disagree with an old-timer , but I think the bending over to ground-
cut would be harder on the back than proper lifting. Besides, my kids can load
the sawbuck for me while I just cut away & grin.


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## 7sleeper (Nov 25, 2009)

I have been using one off these besides a wooden one. 






It works very well because it doesn't have anything between the crossing points of the wood holding steel parts. That has the effect that the saw can swing freely without sawing into the sawhorse. I just copied the photo of the net so the dimensions aren't so good visible.

7


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## Wood Doctor (Nov 25, 2009)

7sleeper said:


> I have been using one off these besides a wooden one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Red X on the image, but the URL works. Why three cross supports? What purpose does the center one serve? Just curious.


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## 7sleeper (Nov 26, 2009)

Wood Doctor said:


> Red X on the image, but the URL works. Why three cross supports? What purpose does the center one serve? Just curious.



I am not quite sure what you mean. I will try to illustrate in my opion the good points.

As you can see gr8scott72's sawhorse comes regularly in contact with the chain. 






That is something that I haven't noticed with my model. I can swing freely after sawing through. Of course there is always a debate about the safety. Who knows you might swing to far, but that is another reason why I wear my ppe. 






I regularly cut the wood in 1 meter pieces to dry. After drying for a year I stack the wood on the sawhorse and cut them to 1/3 pieces that easily fit into the stove. On the photo the sawhorse is not fully extended.

The pros:
- foldable, so it's easy to store or transport
- sawteeth like woodholder, I have never had the problem of wood moving around while cutting




- not very expensive, about 20€

The cons:
- sawteeth can be a pain when trying to reposition the wood
- it doesn't seem to be as robust as my wood sawhorse

7


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## Nosmo (Feb 13, 2010)

*Older Thread Revisited*

I've been doing a search for plans used to make a sawbuck and ran across this thread. There are some good ideas within the thread and I plan on making one.

To answer one previous question "why use a sawbuck when you can just buck it up on the ground" ?

Well when I cut my own wood I use a home made log jack to cut the rounds
off at 15". I have a friend who is on the city's tree cutting crew and when they cut a tree up the lengths vary between 16 to 30 inches. If I want any free wood I have to take it like it hits the ground and I have to take it with me that way until I get it home. Nope I can't cut it shorter on the site.

Sure is going to make it easier to cut those pieces on a sawbuck.

Nosmo


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## Haywire Haywood (Feb 13, 2010)

I think something like that but with more capacity would be handy if you have a bunch of straight 6" logs to cut like you were clearing a fence row or something. Stack 10 or 15 of them on there and make a few big cuts instead of many small ones.

Ian


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 13, 2010)

Here's a couple of Pic of the one I showed the plans for in post #24:









The frame is so strong that no other pieces are required and there is no wobble. All 4 uprights are identical and all four cross pieces are identical. Therefore, you only have to make two pieces four times each. Even the screws are all the same: 1-1/2" x #10 or #8. The secret to the success is the joinery, the design, and the workmanship. Hardwood is recommended, such as ash, but I used southern yellow pine and that worked.


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## Nosmo (Feb 14, 2010)

That is a nice job and it looks like a piece of fine furniture. I used to do some woodworking and turning a few years ago.

I did get mine made and used it yesterday. I have a lot of rounds the city cutting crew let me have and all of them need to be shortened to stovewood size.

Nosmo


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## Wood Doctor (Feb 14, 2010)

Well, it make look like a "piece of furniture" but that's the way I build things using wood. I have since painted it with exterior house paint. After 10 years, it still works.


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