# Help with Homemade cone type log splitter, please...



## RodHinds (Dec 12, 2011)

Hey there,

I'm thinking of making a log splitter using a screw/cone type log splitter mounted to a horizontal shaft motor with a centrifugal clutch...

Wondering if a 8hp motor will give the unti enough torque to split through oak? Budget is a huge concern. Parts for my concept will be relatively inexpensive.

Advice? Thanks. Rod~


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## Diesel nut (Dec 12, 2011)

I'm thinking you might need some gear reduction there on a smaller engine like that more so than what a cf clutch can give ya. I'll have to think on this one...hmmmm...


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## RodHinds (Dec 12, 2011)

Diesel nut said:


> I'm thinking you might need some gear reduction there on a smaller engine like that more so than what a cf clutch can give ya. I'll have to think on this one...hmmmm...



Thanks Diesel. I was also thinking of using another larger sprocket as a type of gear reduction. Thoughts?


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## bobt (Dec 12, 2011)

RodHinds said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I'm thinking of making a log splitter using a screw/cone type log splitter mounted to a horizontal shaft motor with a centrifugal clutch...
> 
> ...



Hi Rod, and WELCOME to AS!

Why are you contemplating making one of these splitters? 

They are kind of like dinosaurs, as they have been around for lets say 40 years, but never caught on for many reasons, including SAFETY, and efficiency. If you happen to place the round inaccurately it simply spins and doesn't split. Bad situation! I used one that was mounted on a rear axle of my pickup, and yes it worked but wasn't a great thing at all.

Bob


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## Old Goat (Dec 12, 2011)

I lifted this photo from a classified ad here in Utah. Here is the link. I may no longer be for sale. KSL.com Mobile 

Have you looked into getting a stickler? I have one and call it the suicide splitter. You will need to have some mass behind your screw type splitter such as a car or tractor or the logs will throw it everywhich way.


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## RodHinds (Dec 13, 2011)

guys, I keep hearing about the negative of the stickler type wood splitters....any positives?

Do they go through knotts?


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## feader72 (Dec 13, 2011)

Mr. Rob sir, I also purchased the Stickler, and let me tell you it is anything but inefficient, anyone who would tell you otherwise never actually used one. I bought mine brand new, it comes with safety kill switch and I mount it on my plow truck (which is not road driven) when I need to split, this thing is just plain fast, the faster you can feed it the faster it splits. I put a scrap piece of plate steel under it so that the logs don't penetrate the earth when splitting, i turn up the idle of the truck and whoa!! that think can split!! At first I was scared and used the kill switch, it works!! but if you pay attention you wont have any problems with a screw type splitter as long as it setup right. Go to youtube.com and type in "stickler log splitter" and it will take you to the videos. try here : Stickler Log Splitter Firewood Screw.MOV - YouTube

I recommend you find a way to mount it on a vehicle for more power but a tractor will suffice, check out the youtube site, they have various ideas on how to mount those older screw splitters, one has an electric motor with a pulleys and it splits just fine, must be in the pulleys cuz one is bigger than the other so they get the right gear reduction on it. always make sure the tip is sharp and in good shape, my stickler hasnt dulled yet even after 17 full cord of splitting, just gotta take care of it. and remember to make it safe in operation before you split it.


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## jhoff310 (Dec 13, 2011)

I have seen too many lost fingers, mangled hands, and other injuries associated with this typ of splitter. If you want to know whay they have such a bad rap, put on a necktie and fire up a drill and let the drill grab ahold of your tie and see what happens. Im not trying to pee in your apple juice, But I want you to be aware of the risk associated with this type of splitter.

I would rather split wood with dynamite than use one of these.

Jeff


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## feader72 (Dec 13, 2011)

*Stickler splitter*

Ive used my stickler for over 17 full cord so far and have had no problems, anyone who tells you otherwise has never actually used one. The safety kill switch included with the stickler does work, and this thing splits fast!! I use a flat piece of steel under the screw to prevent wood from penetrating the ground if its soft. go to youtube.com and type in "stickler wood splitter" and it will show you various clips, first one is of the stickler mounted on a flat bed truck and its spinning pretty fast but you feed it fast too, when I split I dont bend over, i just sit on a small piece of wood and the cutter (person who is cutting the logs) throws me logs or rolls em to me and I split and toss the pieces in a separate pile. All types of splitters are dangerous, and it depends on the end user taking responsibility for their own safety. There are plenty of horror stories from hydraulic splitters and the like.

Use it safely and it will work for you. I mounted mine on my plow truck which is not road driven and already has ballast weight in the back, works great!! I love my stickler.


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## RodHinds (Dec 13, 2011)

feader72 said:


> Ive used my stickler for over 17 full cord so far and have had no problems, anyone who tells you otherwise has never actually used one. The safety kill switch included with the stickler does work, and this thing splits fast!! I use a flat piece of steel under the screw to prevent wood from penetrating the ground if its soft. go to youtube.com and type in "stickler wood splitter" and it will show you various clips, first one is of the stickler mounted on a flat bed truck and its spinning pretty fast but you feed it fast too, when I split I dont bend over, i just sit on a small piece of wood and the cutter (person who is cutting the logs) throws me logs or rolls em to me and I split and toss the pieces in a separate pile. All types of splitters are dangerous, and it depends on the end user taking responsibility for their own safety. There are plenty of horror stories from hydraulic splitters and the like.
> 
> Use it safely and it will work for you. I mounted mine on my plow truck which is not road driven and already has ballast weight in the back, works great!! I love my stickler.



feader72,
Thanks for the feedback. Did I mention that I cut the tip of my thumb off with a hydraulic splitter earlier this year? I an CONSIDERABLY more careful now with operating any kind of tool. LOL

Does your stickler go through knotts and other tough pieces?


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## feader72 (Dec 13, 2011)

RodHinds said:


> feader72,
> Thanks for the feedback. Did I mention that I cut the tip of my thumb off with a hydraulic splitter earlier this year? I an CONSIDERABLY more careful now with operating any kind of tool. LOL
> 
> Does your stickler go through knotts and other tough pieces?



yes, but sometimes it goes around the knots (my wording is funky, i cant fully explain in words). I have also successfully split 4' maple logs (they were about 18" to 20" in diameter) just a few tho' and my truck (ford with 5.8l engine) had to turn off the over drive (which is what I did BEFORE i attempted to split it) and it did split em. 

the reason I selected the stickler is because it was cheaper than a hydraulic splitter and I dont like most hydraulic splitters because they are slow, there was one i would have considered if it was US made, its actually a powerhorse (china made?) that splits both ways, now that looked fast and if the operator actually got it setup right, you could split like crazy with that think, that was offered by Northern Tool but it still costs more than the stickler.

hope that helps you some. good luck


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## CentaurG2 (Dec 13, 2011)

CBI makes a beauty. It might be a little more than 8hp. Yea, its on the bucket list. 

CBI / Lasco Stump Screw - YouTube


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## feader72 (Dec 13, 2011)

RodHinds said:


> feader72,
> Thanks for the feedback. Did I mention that I cut the tip of my thumb off with a hydraulic splitter earlier this year? I an CONSIDERABLY more careful now with operating any kind of tool. LOL
> 
> Does your stickler go through knotts and other tough pieces?



oh yeah i forgot to say that I cut my wood about 12" to 14" in length, I was told by many old ppl, wood dries faster if its cut short, 24" logs take longer to season than a 12" log, even if they both are split. and my wood gets seasoned fast. Thats just me tho' there are probably others out there who will contest that.


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## RodHinds (Dec 13, 2011)

Thanks Feader72. Happy splitting!~


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## Somesawguy (Dec 13, 2011)

You might try something like an old rototiller to drive it. That being said, any hydraulic splitter will be much safer. 

Best of luck. opcorn:


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## whackerk (Dec 13, 2011)

*Screw type splitter*

Hi
Don't let anyone scare you away from using , and or making one of these, 
I turned a screw on a Southbend 9" swing lathe many years ago, and was a finer pitch then what you see on the Stickler, maybe more like what the Acorn units has...
It worked like a charm.
We probably split 15 cords a year for many years....
Initially we had an opposed twin OMC Sno prince skidoo engine on it and found that in order to have the power we had to keep the revs up...


The engine noise was more tiring then the work of splitting...
Later mod was to use a Austin Mini engine and that was excellant...

As long as you have a solid bar, in line with the rotating axis of the splitter then you always have a stop...
This bar is attached to the same frame as the motor and splitter is on...
I wouldn't necessarily count on the ground to always work, because If the end of the log gets by and lifts the splitter then you'll have some trouble...
i believe this is where they went wrong with the Stickler back in the day when Cars fell of Jacks etc...
There is nothing unsafe about these, If used properly...

A 8 hp engine I would guess would not have the power...
The Acorn Units which fit on the 3 pt Hitch of your tractor work very well..
My father in law has a couple of them, and used his B series Kubota to run it...

Of course, If you work around it with loose clothing etc, then you may run the risk, of snagging something...

I have a VHS video around here somewhere of how slick that was, one day I'll find a way to get it on to utube, so others can see how one of these can split, we had three , four or five pieces being split at once...
Load the wood on the pointy end, and pull it of the big end...
Ran it for hours....
A 70 year old man can sit there in a chair, for hours, and as long as he has wood , keep feeding the point, and have someone clear the wood away from underneath..
and I agree with the others who have posted here, regarding some folks, who are very negative about these and may have never used them
Go thru knots??, like a knife thru butter...

Absolutely wonderful...


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## whackerk (Dec 13, 2011)

View attachment 211430
View attachment 211431
View attachment 211432


Found some pictures...
1pic is Herb demonstrating how not to do it, it was a joke with the locals, who often asked about the splitter and weren't quite sure how it worked....

I didn't realize how much wood we dragged out as kids, until I had a close look at these pictures....
Never hurt us one bit you know...

The double row chain and gears must have come right out of the Sno Prince...
These Pictures are of the Opposed twin set up for the powerplant
Wicked splitter, gotta love it, sad that the person that built this, my father, and Herb are no longer with us..
I spent many an afternoon when I got home from school turning that taper on the screw

whacker


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## Old Goat (Dec 13, 2011)

RodHinds said:


> guys, I keep hearing about the negative of the stickler type wood splitters....any positives?
> 
> Do they go through knotts?



They go through knots, gloves, pants, skin, flesh, just kidding. I depends on the wood. Mine works great for soft wood, pine, fir, spruce and straight grain hardwood. Elm is a pain and caused me to give it the name of "Suicide Splitter".

I had mine installed on my truck at the time which was a Ford 3/4 ton with a 460 motor. I could sit and watch the fuel gauge move as it sat at a stop light. It was not very cost effective at the time. I also have two hydraulic splitters so the Stickler doesn't see much action now days. I have been thinking about getting an axle and mounting a 3-point hitch on it. Add a drive shaft to the differential and PTO and have a set up for the tractor. Mostly for splitting up the big rounds and stumps. 

If you think about it hydraulic splitters are not that safe either. Hands and fingers have been lost or smashed. I have had my shins knocked around a few times with split wood coming back at me. Just like everything else in life there is a risk. You need to know your boundaries and stick to them. Just like you wouldn't lean over the ram on a hydraulic unit, don't lean over the stickler. Sit back away and to one side of the point. Make sure the vehicle is blocked. I use to lift the other side and chain the tire to the axle just to make sure it wouldn't take off on me. 

None of the splitters are as dangerous as the saw that was used to cut the wood up in the first place. I think the thought of slowly being impaled by a large screw causes many of us to avoid the Stickler. It has its limits and needs to be respected just like any other useful tool.


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## cjnspecial (Dec 13, 2011)

I had one and it worked very well except for in stringy or curly grained wood. I got rid of mine because a large portion of what I cut is stringy and curly grained wood(live oak and pecan). I also didn't like staying hunched over for hours while splitting.


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## 1project2many (Dec 13, 2011)

I do not like the idea of attaching them to a vehicle drivetrain. The mass and torque are great enough to do large amounts of damage to operators and bystanders. The kill switch can prevent runaway but there's still momentum to deal with.

For a dedicated splitter I'd say an electric driven or electric clutch actuated system using a foot pedal start / stop switch would improve safety considerably. If the operator is not positioned correctly the splitter doesn't work. If electric motor driven, the foot switch can be made from a variable speed controller to reduce motor torque while feeding the round. On a vehicle mounted system modern electronics using acelerometers could detect excess vehicle motion and kill the engine. These splitters do have a habit of injuring people so keep safety in mind.


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## avalancher (Dec 14, 2011)

RodHinds said:


> feader72,
> Thanks for the feedback. Did I mention that I cut the tip of my thumb off with a hydraulic splitter earlier this year? I an CONSIDERABLY more careful now with operating any kind of tool. LOL
> 
> Does your stickler go through knotts and other tough pieces?



Let me make sure I understand this correctly. You managed to cut your thumb off with a hydraulic splitter, now you are moving on to a more dangerous machine? I think I would rethink that idea.

Sure, log splitters injure folks. But when you look at how many hydraulic splitters are out there compared to how many folks manage to injure themselves, the numbers are very low. However, you cant say the same about screw type splitters.


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## TFPace (Dec 14, 2011)

*Take a look at this*

The cone splitter makes a lot of since to me if you are splitting large rounds. You can break them down to manageable size and then process them with a kinetic splitter:smile2:

Demo Video - The Atom Splitter with Flare


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## RodHinds (Dec 14, 2011)

All good feedback. I appreciate it very much.
I'll keep you posted on what I decide to do. Rod


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## Streblerm (Dec 14, 2011)

I don't have one and have never used one. I would think that you probably wouldn't need too much engine to work one of these type splitters if you have some flywheel inertia. 

When I look at videos of this type of splitter I have to think that lower RPM with some mass behind it would be the safest way to go. the one on this tractor looks like it is turning only a couple hundred RPMs max but it has the mass of the tractor drivetrain behind it. The same goes for the car rim mounted type (really scary if you ask me, way too much stuff to go wrong on one mounted to a car)

[video=youtube;A-K8JtgjtBM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=A-K8JtgjtBM[/video]

Just look at what you can do with a SuperSplit or its clones with a small engine and a big flywheel. I would guess you could get by with less than 5hp engine with some flywheel mass. Depending on where you want to use it you could even go electric.


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## whackerk (Dec 14, 2011)

*Splitter*

I agree streblerm

To much to go wrong with a screw on a wheel, and the moving suspension on the other 3 wheels, and the jack, maybe sinking into the ground, or the car falling of it... Also, much to low for comfort, like someone already mentioned..

Also, relying on the friction between the wood being split and another piece of wood on the ground as depicted on the Atom video, is also introducing to many unknown variables...
Also, same applies with the "table model'... add a bar gentleman!

Atom should simply add a bar in the same plane, as the screw and problem solved, there's always a stop..

There's also the question of speed, and I certainly found that a Austin Mini Engine, behind one of those screws, gave the speed, and power needed, to efficiently split wood...

The Acorn Splitter my father in Law uses, on his 3pt hitch, Kubota 1550, works fine, a little slow for my liking, and also the screw is a little shorter, so it's more difficult to have more then one piece of wood on the splitter at a time...
Bought it for 75$ here locally about 8 years ago...
Just asked a elderly neighbour, and she new exactly who had one... No, doubt also the talk of the village at the time..
They probably shamed him into buying a Hydraulic Unit:hmm3grin2orange:
Turns out he had it stashed away in his barn and was glad to get rid of it..
A quick look on craigslist found these 

3 point log splitter non hydraulic
Screw type log Splitter / post hole digger
3 point Bark Buster wood splitter

whacker


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## iowa (Dec 14, 2011)

You guys are a bunch of opinionated Bast****!!!

Everything we do is dangerous in order to process wood. The first being, USING A CHAINSAW!! To felling a tree. Then bucking it up with a chainsaw. You do know that the saw blade is running at 12000+rpms right? In your hands none the less. 

And you say a stickler is dangerous running at less than 200 rpm.. LOL....

Maybe you should use your head and think! Making work safe. 

Maybe I shouldn't have drove to work today and stayed in bed? It would have been safer! :hmm3grin2orange:


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## RodHinds (Dec 14, 2011)

OK, if I were to try and build one of these, just using a small engine, maybe a centrifugal clutch?, and a stickler...anyone out there that has a phot of one or a diagram they might e-mail me? I need to do this on a shoestring budget...Thanks


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## whackerk (Dec 14, 2011)

*My Apologies*

I referred earlier to Acorn Splitter

It's actually Unicorn, close!
Heres one
Unicorn PTO drive log splitter


Lot of Peso's though....:hmm3grin2orange:

a little better price:msp_tongue:
Log Splitter For Sale

Rod Hind...
You could start with a Skidoo, and that drive train, affix it all to a 2 x 2 box tube frame, with some wheels, and go from there...
That's what we did!

Have a little closer look at the Pictures i posted, sorry, they are photos, of slides projected on a screen...:smile2:
whacker


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## RodHinds (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks Whackerk. I did look at the pictures. I will start looking for a skidoo. I had another guy suggest a rototiller?? Thought that was an interesting concept...Rod


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## whackerk (Dec 14, 2011)

*Ski doo Drive Train*

I can remember that an adjustment provision, to keep the double row chain tight, was seen as a needed option at some point...:msp_ohmy:
Regarding the screw, we made it with a replaceable tip, so that we could get as much length as possible, with the blank of steel we had...
Also, we figured that If anything wore it would be the tip... 
Later the tip was welded on, never did need the spare...
Seems to me our unit had two Mini Wheels at the rear, and the front wheel was on a swivel, with a T-Handle, so everything could be moved around....
That may have been after the Mini Engine was added..
A wheel barrow type of arrangement, may be more inline with what you see on the pictures....
LOL

whacker


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## avalancher (Dec 14, 2011)

iowa said:


> You guys are a bunch of opinionated Bast****!!!
> 
> Everything we do is dangerous in order to process wood. The first being, USING A CHAINSAW!! To felling a tree. Then bucking it up with a chainsaw. You do know that the saw blade is running at 12000+rpms right? In your hands none the less.
> 
> ...



You kidding, right? When a chainsaw is used exactly as intended, it generally is a safe machine to operate. Sure, unexpected things happen, but generally speaking a saw is safe to use when used as intended. Most accidents with saws occur when folks are careless, in a hurry, lack any education in the use of a saw, etc. Check around and read some articles, and nine times out of ten a saw accident occurs from operator error.

However, jacking up your truck and bolting on a large screw hardly falls into the category. Far to many factors involved that can lend itself to an accident. A chunk becomes jambed on the screw, and something has to give. The screw type splitters permanently mounted on a tractors 3 point hitch are safer for the simple reason that at least all four wheels are still on the ground, but come on, a truck up on a jack stand can be considered safe?

Sure, staying home is safer than driving on the streets, but in reality driving is essential and as of yet we have no way of getting around without a vehicle. But when it comes to splitting wood, we have many more safe alternatives to wood splitters using a bare spinning wheel and giant screw.

Anyone ever use a large drill and a large spade bit? hurts like the ####ens when that thing jambs in the hole. No multiply that times a hundred and you got a truck powered wood screw.


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## iowa (Dec 14, 2011)

avalancher said:


> You kidding, right? When a *STICKLER* is used exactly as intended, it generally is a safe machine to operate. Sure, unexpected things happen, but generally speaking a *STICKLER* is safe to use when used as intended. Most accidents with *STICKLERS* occur when folks are careless, in a hurry, lack any education in the use of a *STICKLER*, etc. Check around and read some articles, and nine times out of ten a *STICKLER* accident occurs from operator error.
> 
> However, jacking up your truck and bolting on a large screw hardly falls into the category. Far to many factors involved that can lend itself to an accident. A chunk becomes jambed on the screw, and something has to give. The screw type splitters permanently mounted on a tractors 3 point hitch are safer for the simple reason that at least all four wheels are still on the ground, but come on, a truck up on a jack stand can be considered safe?
> 
> ...



One thing about your analogy on the spade bit. Those are designed differently.. Way different...

I don't think he was looking to mount on his truck either. But on a seperate machine..

BTW I corrected the first part of your last post... Read it an respect it.. Feel free to put whatever you want in those bold letters. Whether it be a drill, saw, car, truck, splitter, or walking a dog. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## RodHinds (Dec 14, 2011)

Best Log Splitter Home Made Wood Malku skaldyke - YouTube

This one on you-tube is along the lines I was thinking, except they use an electric motor and I'm interested in a gas....but, this one is pretty slick!~


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## iowa (Dec 14, 2011)

Gas one!
WOOD SCREW SPLITTER - GAS POWERED - YouTube


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## avalancher (Dec 14, 2011)

iowa said:


> One thing about your analogy on the spade bit. Those are designed differently.. Way different...
> 
> I don't think he was looking to mount on his truck either. But on a seperate machine..
> 
> BTW I corrected the first part of your last post... Read it an respect it.. Feel free to put whatever you want in those bold letters. Whether it be a drill, saw, car, truck, splitter, or walking a dog. :hmm3grin2orange:



If you want to make a case for the stickler, then that is fine. Everyone has their opinion and they are entitled to it. However, I resent the idea that you are making it appear as if I said that, and i would appreciate it if you would edit your post so that it doesnt appear that I said that. After all, I am entitled to my opinion just as you are.

The grin afterwards hardly justifies your actions.


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## whackerk (Dec 14, 2011)

*What wood*

Both good ideas..
There's certainly some energy in the mass of that flywheel...
Something to think about though would be the wood your splitting...
I know in these parts we have "bush wood " compared to what some folks have to split in European Countries, where both the previous videos may have been made..

With that in mind the drive train would see more significant axial loads, If your splitting a tougher splitting wood...
Will the bearings in the electric Motor hold up to that abuse in a direct drive setup?
Personally I would look for something with 15 HP and gas or diesel powered
That motor you see there may in fact be running, on 3 Ph power at 460 Volts and be up there in the HP rating... I don't know!!

The little Gasoline motor, looks like it does a good job, however If I was splitting 10 or 15 Cords a year I'd be looking for something a little more Powerful and able to generate it's power on the lower end of the RPM Scale

Personally I would look for something with 15 HP and gas or diesel powered

Working on a budget, sometimes, ya just gotta work with what you can scrounge locally...

whacker


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## RodHinds (Dec 14, 2011)

Whacker,

I'm fortunate enought to only deal in harder woods...ash, oak, maple, elm, hickory, etc are plentiful around here. In fact, I was just "given" two enormous oaks that were dropped by a utility company for a friend of a friend. Heaviest/densest stuff I have ever lifted.

Most have knotts and crotches that make splitting pretty difficult. I agree with your assessment about the flywheel inertia. I think the one on the electric motor looked like it was pretty solid, maybe filled with concrete?

The concern I would have with using a stickler on a high speed motor, like the one on the video, is how I govern it down to a more managable rpm.


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## whackerk (Dec 14, 2011)

Absolutely, as the rotational mass with the stickler is even further, from the bearing on the motor because of it's length....

Work with a 4 to 1 ratio and you'll get down under 500 RPM on a stickler...with a 1750 rpm motor....
at that point you may find that you'd like more or less speed, and an easy way to control that in my view would be impt...
This is another reason why IC motor, may be preferred, would be much easier to control the speed with the required HP your looking at...

With the Skidoo motor setup you, have the clutch as well as the throttle, with electric, your looking at a fancier electronic scheme for speed control. 

I'd be looking for as much flexibility as possible, considering the variable nature of the wood..

You may have to build two of them in the end, to get what your looking for:hmm3grin2orange:

whacker


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## cantoo (Dec 14, 2011)

avalancher, one word answer, have you ever used one? 
I have a 3 pth one and played with it a couple times, I felt safe enough. Much safer than cutting a tree down anyway. I have 4 splitters so haven't used the unicorn much. Plan is to mount it on a post hole digger and break big stuff into small enough stuff for the other splitters.


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## woodguy105 (Dec 14, 2011)

TFPace said:


> The cone splitter makes a lot of since to me if you are splitting large rounds. You can break them down to manageable size and then process them with a kinetic splitter:smile2:
> 
> Demo Video - The Atom Splitter with Flare



If you're making lots of split rail fencing this would come in handy. Not to mention handy cutting the long splits to firewood length.


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## feader72 (Dec 14, 2011)

*stickler*

well to all those who have already overanalyzed the situation and denounced the stickler, unless you try it, you really cant input anything intellectual into it. It works and from personal experience, you can regulate the speed how you see fit, you can even limit the rpms by using just low range drive (you know, "D" "3" "2" "1") and if you put it on an older 4 wheel drive which allows you to have "2 low" then you are talking plenty enough power and usage to find what range works best for you. 

Jacking up a car is no more dangerous than using a chain saw, do it right and it will be fine. I speak from actual experience and before I start using my stickler, i park my plow truck and make sure its jacked up and supported safely because I leave the truck there until all the splitting is done. there is always going to be people who think their way is better, but stupid people can make any device dangerous, even a butter knife. Please dont over analyze it, until you have actually worked it, you know the old adage "he said it was an ant hill, but by the time it reached the mouths of the neighbors it was mount everest" talk is cheap, practical experience is gold.


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## deutzman (Dec 15, 2011)

feader72 said:


> well to all those who have already overanalyzed the situation and denounced the stickler, unless you try it, you really cant input anything intellectual into it. It works and from personal experience, you can regulate the speed how you see fit, you can even limit the rpms by using just low range drive (you know, "D" "3" "2" "1") and if you put it on an older 4 wheel drive which allows you to have "2 low" then you are talking plenty enough power and usage to find what range works best for you.
> 
> Jacking up a car is no more dangerous than using a chain saw, do it right and it will be fine. I speak from actual experience and before I start using my stickler, i park my plow truck and make sure its jacked up and supported safely because I leave the truck there until all the splitting is done. there is always going to be people who think their way is better, but stupid people can make any device dangerous, even a butter knife. Please dont over analyze it, until you have actually worked it, you know the old adage "he said it was an ant hill, but by the time it reached the mouths of the neighbors it was mount everest" talk is cheap, practical experience is gold.



I agree. I used a unicorn so long I wore it out. Couldn't find parts and sold the thing. That was back in the late 70's. Built a hydraulic splitter for the tractor and it was OK but never could turn out the wood like the unicorn did. The unicorn was just faster. BTW no one ever got hurt on the unicorn I had. Ran it on a MF 135 and split some wood that it took 2 men to roll it up to the cone.

I'm a lot older now and can't lift and roll those large pieces of wood like I use to do. I bought an Atom splitter for my post hole digger about a month ago and use a Tractor Supply 3 point splitter without the 3 point hitch mounted upside down and hanging out the right side of my front end loader. I split all my wood from the seat of my tractor. I split for a OWB so the pieces are larger than for a regular wood stove. This set up I use now allows me to turn out wood pretty fast. I use the Atom to half and then quarter cuts up to 12' (haven't tried any that was longer) and then pick this pieces up with the hydraulic splitter on the front and hold them over the wood pile and cut them up. I have some cuts (left over from timber harvest) that I use the hydraulic splitter on and don't use the Atom splitter on because they are short. I haven't found anything I can't split one way or the other. All the wood I use right now is left over from timber harvest and about 60% of it most folks wouldn't attempt to try and splt. It was all old growth oak last cut in 1936. I do like the cone splitters and they have their place just like a hydraulic splitter does.


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## avalancher (Dec 15, 2011)

cantoo said:


> avalancher, one word answer, have you ever used one?
> I have a 3 pth one and played with it a couple times, I felt safe enough. Much safer than cutting a tree down anyway. I have 4 splitters so haven't used the unicorn much. Plan is to mount it on a post hole digger and break big stuff into small enough stuff for the other splitters.



In one word answer format, Yes.


To further the explanation, yes I have used and owned one, and I found it to be a dangerous piece of equipment. It worked fine on species of wood that had little to no knots or twists. But the second you dropped a knotted piece of hickory,pecan, or white oak you were taking your chances on what would happen when you shoved the round into the screw.

We jacked up a one ton Chevy truck and bolted it on with the idea that as the rounds were split we would remount the wheel and load up the truck and carry it on to a customer that had ordered a three cords of white oak, cut,split, and stacked green. Because of the area where we were harvesting the oak, there was no place to turn around, and we had to back into the area for almost 200 yards, thereby nixing the idea of towing the 27 ton hydralic splitter behind the truck as we had thought. Then I remembered the unicorn splitter I had bought at a farm auction a few years back. Seemed like a plan.

Parked the truck, knocked down a tree that was in our way, jacked up the truck and shoved the log under the axle. I then layed down a piece of 3/4 inch plywood under the unicorn to use as a splitting platform and to keep the mud to a minimum in our area.

Like I said before, it worked great for straight pieces, but the second the unicorn got fed a piece with a lot of knots, the truck would leap off the log and try and make a run for it using the round as a wheel. We even went as far as run a chain over the axle and around the log underneath, and finally resorted to chaining the rear of the truck to a nearby 8 inch in diameter sappling to stop the truck from taking off.

We got the job done, but that evening I had to resort to hair dye in order to look presentable and its a chore that I have no desire to repeat. I sold that thing a short time later and resolved never to run one again. Sure, they are fast, but so is dynamite. I am going to have to be content with a 35 ton Speeco splitter pushing a 4 way wedge from now on, and if that aint fast enough for ya I aint working with you.

Everyone has a different experience with these things, and I dare say the majority of the difference is in what species you are splitting. But for what we cut around here, it just aint worth the grey hair to run a unicorn. I got better things to do than look for missing fingers.


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## conehead (Feb 6, 2013)

I recently found an old cone that bolted to the passenger side of a mazda pick-up. Jack up the passenger side of the truck, put the cone on the lugs. Put it in gear, set the throttle & split away. I used it a little & the log would dig a trench in the ground & then rotate thus scaring me & risking damage to the wheel well. 
Fast forward ten years.......I needed a low budget splitter, the truck was a heap of rust. I took the rear-end, driveshaft , tranny & clutch plate out, srcapped the rest & welded up a frame for my 2n ford 3 point. Mounted the trans, shortened the drive shaft & coupled the rearend to it. The input on the trans was done by cutting the bushing off the clutchplate & welding a pto adapter on. I had to weld the drivers side axle to stop the rotation by putting a wheel rim on & welding it to the frame. The helix of the cone only scewed that way.......check the rotation with your motor.....The 16 hp at the pto shaft of my 1946 2N Ford tractor with the tranny in overdrive would pull the tractors motor down & kill it at times. Oak splits good though the big elm would realy test it. So I would us a lower gear. I found that the axle had to float to allow the cone to follow inconsistant wood grain or it would bind & kill the tractor. The solution was to weld a u bolt from a leaf spring pack to limit the travel on the cone side. Then I had to control the wood by providing a shelf plate for the wood to slide on. Sometimes the wood would kick out & rotate so I had to weld a pipe on the side of the shelf to catch it & continue to split it. The tranny is really handy to reverse the screw to free up the stringy elm. Otherwise binding & creating a big issue. 
I only have a little money in it & my time. It is finally at a point where I can operate it safely for an extended time.
I hope you are able get something going on your adventure. It will be rewarding when its' done.


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## steved (Feb 14, 2013)

I actually still have one of these...dad used it on a Jeep CJ-5 back in the day. They are not for the faint of heart, there is no doubt they can be dangerous. The things I remember was that a big piece would cause the Jeep to rock on the stand if it caught the ground just right. Basically, once you stab the chunk, its almost completely hands off until its through splitting. And the pieces almost look hairy for the lack of a better term...the way it pries (almost tears) the chunk apart from the side instead of wedging it apart from the end causes the splits to end up with lots of fibers.

I always thought hard mounting the cone, to prevent any chance of the support twisting; and having a bar to prevent the chunk from spinning would make it a formidable splitter. Like maybe mounted on a 3pt hitch...or other large frame.


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