# Solo Twin....FINALLY!!!



## blsnelling (Jan 8, 2015)

As most of you know, I've wanted a Solo Twin...for YEARS! The right deal just never came along. I wasn't willing to pay the crazy money they go for on eBay, nevermind the fact that there's only been a handful of them sell in the last several years. I've had several guys watching for one for me, even a good friend in Germany. There have been a couple possibilities, but nothing ever came to fruition. Well, that changed yesterday and today. Payment was made shortly after lunch and a tracking number was provided, and I'm now an official owner of a Solo Twin! This is a bookmark day for my chainsaw collection.

Why do I want a Solo Twin so bad? It's add simply as this....The sound! I built and rode a modified Yamaha Banshee for about 10 years. That was my passion long before chainsaw. The Solo Twin sound just like a howling Banshee!

This saw is coming to me as a runner, but it doesn't run right. It has ignition and or carb issues. It's complete with no known structural issues. With a couple of the connections I've made over the years, I should be able to source any parts I may need to bring back this saw to it's howling glory.

Without any further to do, I introduce you to my chainsaw Nirvana.
































It should be delivered Saturday.


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## Ronaldo (Jan 8, 2015)

I have seen one once at our Spring GTG here in Iowa and even got to make a few cuts. They certainly are unique and sound like nothing else out there.
Congratulations, Brad.


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## Hinerman (Jan 8, 2015)

Awesome. Happy dance time...


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## blsnelling (Jan 8, 2015)

Ronaldo said:


> I have seen one once at our Spring GTG here in Iowa and even got to make a few cuts. They certainly are unique and sound like nothing else out there.
> Congratulations, Brad.


This past fall was the first time I had ever seen one. I was not only surprised by how well it cut, but by how heavy they are!


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## Ronaldo (Jan 8, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> This past fall was the first time I had ever seen one. I was not only surprised by how well it cut, but by how heavy they are!


Heavy, yes. Did you notice that they are actually quite smooth for that age of saw?


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## M&Rtree (Jan 8, 2015)

Wow. Brad just watched some videos on YouTube and riding Banshees when I was younger and your right they sound a lot alike.


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## blsnelling (Jan 8, 2015)

Here's the one I ran last fall.


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## Jeff Lary (Jan 8, 2015)

Congrats Brad that is a really good looking one too. I just watched the video and they sound cool too.


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## Ray Bell (Jan 8, 2015)

Yes, congrats. Can't wait too see, and hear it after you have worked on it. I know you will do it justice.


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Jan 8, 2015)

Ronaldo said:


> Heavy, yes. Did you notice that they are actually quite smooth for that age of saw?



I thought so. Very smooth and way before their time.


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## stihlaficionado (Jan 8, 2015)

What's top RPM on the saw? It sounds like 14K


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## M&Rtree (Jan 8, 2015)

Is the saw in your video ported?


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## redfin (Jan 8, 2015)

What are your plans for it? Rehab or resto?


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## mr.finn (Jan 8, 2015)

Congrats Brad!! Just watched the vid, sounds awesome!!! Please put up a video when you get it running, want to hear more.


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## wde_1978 (Jan 8, 2015)

Soon to come "Snellerized Solo Twin"? 

That is some fine piece of machinery , congratulations!


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## Sty57 (Jan 8, 2015)

That is very cool. I can't wait to see what you do with it.


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## drf255 (Jan 8, 2015)

You gonna port it?


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## LowVolt (Jan 8, 2015)

Awesome sounding saw.

Congrats!!!!!


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## Duke Thieroff (Jan 8, 2015)

Lol.

I doubt he'll port it.

Need a couple Meteor Pistons for it Brad?

[emoji1]


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## jeepyfz450 (Jan 8, 2015)

I love the twins. They are very unique. Glad you finally got one.


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 8, 2015)

Well it's about time!!!


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## blsnelling (Jan 8, 2015)

stihlaficionado said:


> What's top RPM on the saw? It sounds like 14K


I have no idea.



M&Rtree said:


> Is the saw in your video ported?


No.



redfin said:


> What are your plans for it? Rehab or resto?


I don't know for sure yet. Most immediately, I just want to get it 100% mechanically. I might do a full restoration with powder coat. I really haven't decide yet. Once thing's for sure...it WILL be run! If I can't hear this saw run, it's not worth owning!



drf255 said:


> You gonna port it?


Definitely not.


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## MGoBlue (Jan 8, 2015)

I can easily see why you're passionate about them. The sound reminds me of the exotic tunes of a piped v-4 sport bike. Absolute mechanical symphony!


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## CR888 (Jan 8, 2015)

A saw like this should stay as close to original as possible. Well done Brad!! l like the way you restore a saw and l think a solo twin IS the real grail saw.


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## blsnelling (Jan 8, 2015)

What do you think?


Leave the finish as is.
Paint with a single stage hardened enamel.
Blast and powder coat.


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## Duke Thieroff (Jan 8, 2015)

Dude, that original paint looks good!


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## buzz sawyer (Jan 8, 2015)

Congrats, Brad!
Definitely a different sounding saw. I think I'd get it running right and clean it up - leave the paint alone.


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## LowVolt (Jan 8, 2015)

Get the saw first but my vote is just keep it as is. It looks great from the first pictures.


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## big t double (Jan 8, 2015)

I vote for leave it as is and run it.


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## syrupmaker70 (Jan 8, 2015)

I would just make it mechanically sound, especially if your going to run it. Then you know what you got in there. IMO. Very cool saw, how does the Solo compare to a echo twin? I don't know anything about these twin cylinder saws, but I have ridden Yamaha Banshees and they are awesome sounding and quick. Keep us posted!


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## Sty57 (Jan 8, 2015)

If you plan on running it, I would go with power coat. If it's going to be a shelf queen than go base- clear.


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## gaspipe (Jan 8, 2015)

Nice piece of machinery!


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## MGoBlue (Jan 8, 2015)

I vote full powder treatment. Make it look [and run] better than new.


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## blsnelling (Jan 8, 2015)

syrupmaker70 said:


> I would just make it mechanically sound, especially if your going to run it. Then you know what you got in there. IMO. Very cool saw, how does the Solo compare to a echo twin? I don't know anything about these twin cylinder saws, but I have ridden Yamaha Banshees and they are awesome sounding and quick. Keep us posted!


I have the Echo twin, in John Deere colors. There is no comparison. While the Echo is a collectible saw, it has nothing of the sound of the Solo. Use wise, It's not near as powerful, but is also much smaller. If anything, I would expect the Echo to be smoother. It's an opposing twin, while the Solo is a side-by-side.


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## stihlaficionado (Jan 8, 2015)

You'd only paint it eventually. Might as do it now before it becomes a shelf queen


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## buck futter (Jan 8, 2015)

sounded like it had a lot of piss to it!


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## bryanr2 (Jan 8, 2015)

Id leave it as is. It has age appropriate wear and patina.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Jan 8, 2015)

i would do a light clean up and give the bar a little shine no need in new paint.


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## bigrichard81 (Jan 8, 2015)

That saw definitely has a cool look to it. I bet it looks awesome in person.


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## XSKIER (Jan 8, 2015)

Great saw, sweet deal!


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## Ray Bell (Jan 8, 2015)

XSKIER said:


> Great saw, sweet deal!


I am torn, while the original paint isn't all that bad for a saw of this age, a complete restore, powder coating would look really nice.


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## Four Paws (Jan 8, 2015)

Leave it original.


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## pastryguyhawaii (Jan 8, 2015)

Congratulations Brad. I vote for leaving it as is.


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## nmurph (Jan 8, 2015)

bryanr2 said:


> Id leave it as is. It has age appropriate wear and patina.



Yep...I would pay more for one with honest skin as opposed to one that's had a face lift.


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## Big_Wood (Jan 8, 2015)

i remember the first time i watched a youtube vid of a twin running. they do kinda have to same sound as a banshee don't they. i bet you clean the points and she runs like a million bucks.


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## Bill G (Jan 9, 2015)

Ronaldo said:


> I have seen one once at our Spring GTG here in Iowa and even got to make a few cuts. They certainly are unique and sound like nothing else out there.
> Congratulations, Brad.




Actually there were TWO Solo Twins at the spring Iowa GTG. I believe yu ran Chris's saw and I had one there also


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## bruceinks (Jan 9, 2015)

Congrats! Can't wait to hear it when you are done! I gave the little 271 Echo I bought from you to my son for Christmas last year. Still going strong, he loves it!


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## jehu (Jan 9, 2015)

I say leave it as is, that paint shows character, very nice Brad.


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## Ronaldo (Jan 9, 2015)

Bill G said:


> Actually there were TWO Solo Twins at the spring Iowa GTG. I believe yu ran Chris's saw and I had one there also


Yes, it was Chris's solo that i ran. I didnt realize that you had one as well.


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## blsnelling (Jan 9, 2015)

That is Chris' Twin that I posted a video of.


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## Hinerman (Jan 9, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> What do you think?
> 
> 
> Leave the finish as is.
> ...


 
Another vote for "as is"....


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## blsnelling (Jan 9, 2015)

Sounds like I need two of these. One for a runner and one for a shelf queen


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## rd35 (Jan 9, 2015)

I saw a guy strip all the paint off one of these. Then he polished all the covers to a mirror finish and clear coated it! Absolutely beautiful yet really mean looking machine! However, my vote is to make it run like new and clean it up. Both the Solo 611 and Echo 610 have opposed cranks. However, since the Echo has opposed cylinders both cylinders fire at exactly the same time so it sounds like a single cylinder saw. The Solo is a side-by-side cylinder arrangement. So the opposed crank allows the cylinders to fire 180 degrees apart. This is what makes that engine run so smooth and scream like a Banshee (Yamaha Banshee)...literally!!!


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## BBP (Jan 9, 2015)

I'm waiting for the Snellerized twin piped Banshee bike saw build thread.
I still have a banshee. It's my wife bike. It was always fun watching her kick the crap out of my buddies, but they didn't like it so much.


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## blsnelling (Jan 9, 2015)

Mine was ported by Lauren Duncan of Duncan Racing. It was a National Midrange port job with Keihin 34PJ carbs and Toomey T5 pipes. It had all of the Pro-Design performance parts on it. I loved riding that thing in the sand dunes at Silver Lake, MI. Not only did I love drag racing it on the flats, but loved sailing over razor backs and counting on the Works shocks to save my life, lol.


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## BBP (Jan 9, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Mine was ported by Lauren Duncan of Duncan Racing. It was a National Midrange port job with Keihin 34PJ carbs and Toomey T5 pipes. It had all of the Pro-Design performance parts on it. I loved riding that thing in the sand dunes at Silver Lake, MI. Not only did I love drag racing it on the flats, but loved sailing over razor backs and counting on the Works shocks to save my life, lol.


I've built a handful of banshees over the years. There's nothing like them. The raw power of the tires ripping loose along with that unique sound is something that has to be experienced. I currently have a bigbore race gas YFZ 450. I haven't ridden much the last few years. I think a trip to the dunes might be in order this summer.


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## blsnelling (Jan 9, 2015)

I sold my Banshee about 10 years ago. I'd love to port my own 420 stroker and go back to the dunes!


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## OnTheRoad (Jan 9, 2015)

On the topic at hand; this saw needs a set of tuned pipes and a badass port job. 

I had several Banshees over the years, but my favorite was one that was ported by John Stallworth with all the bolt ons. Suspension was stock and hence lousy but that bike would scream. These days you can buy a serious Shee for $2,500 and I still think they are the ultimate dune quad.


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## fordf150 (Jan 9, 2015)

congrats Brad!

leave it original. If it was in worse shape then maybe paint it up but that things still looks good


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## andydodgegeek (Jan 9, 2015)

I also ran Chris's saw at the last Iowa GTG and they do indeed have a sweet sound all there own. I agree with most here to leave it as is and just get it running reliably. I hope to run it someday myself. Glad to hear you finally got one.


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## blsnelling (Jan 9, 2015)

It's been a busy day around here. So far I've....


Rented a red carpet for the driveway.
Scheduled an honor guard.
Build a shrine to put it in.
Wired electronic candles that can "burn" 24x7x365.
Talked to the major about dedicating tomorrow as a day of honor on its behalf.


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## jeepyfz450 (Jan 9, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> It's been a busy day around here. So far I've....
> 
> 
> Rented a red carpet for the driveway.
> ...


You have issues. Lol

Here is my only twin but its a big old girl and sounds amazing

Disston twin:


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## blsnelling (Jan 9, 2015)

jeepyfz450 said:


> You have issues. Lol
> 
> Here is my only twin but its a big old girl and sounds amazing
> 
> Disston twin:



Here's my Disston.

Disston DA-211:


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## David Young (Jan 9, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> It's been a busy day around here. So far I've....
> 
> 
> Rented a red carpet for the driveway.
> ...


doesn't seem like enough who will be providing the acceptance speech?

will the parade be before or after the speech?

did you get the permit for the fireworks?

100cc
40mmx40mmx2
are at least going to tear it down make sure everything is ok and get some pics for the saw geeks?


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## nnero (Jan 9, 2015)

I like it as is: a well worn but not abused look. That thing just oozes character.


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## David Young (Jan 9, 2015)

Oh also my vote is restore it to stock including the paint. run through all the seals fuel lines everything, make it tip top stock! it looks like the chain cover has good paint on it.


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## heimannm (Jan 9, 2015)

I still have a few on my wish list but I have managed to put a few unusual saws in the collection as well:

McCulloch BP-1 balanced piston design
Dolmar KMS4 wankle rotary powered
Echo 610evl twin cylinder opposed

I too would like to have a running example of the Solo twin.

Congratulations Brad, sweet saw.

Mark


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## gunrush128 (Jan 9, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Sounds like I need two of these. One for a runner and one for a shelf queen


May as well get 3 while you're at it. It'd be awesome to see what they could do ported![emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## blsnelling (Jan 9, 2015)

David Young said:


> doesn't seem like enough who will be providing the acceptance speech?
> 
> will the parade be before or after the speech?
> 
> ...


Nik's parish priest will be coming by to give it a blessing. Fireworks are coming, courtesy of Rozzi 's Famous Fireworks. The parade will be led by the Budweiser draft horse team.


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## sgrizz (Jan 9, 2015)

I watched the video of brad running the solo and it sounds like a banshee with Toomey pipes and silencers on it .
I had a 2001 banshee with t5 pipes and it brings back memories.


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## David Young (Jan 9, 2015)

Marginal but'll have to do.


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## David Young (Jan 9, 2015)

heimannm said:


> I still have a few on my wish list but I have managed to put a few unusual saws in the collection as well:
> 
> McCulloch BP-1 balanced piston design
> Dolmar KMS4 wankle rotary powered
> ...


I'm thinking karma 
Too balance that out you either had a horrible life or expect a coyote to drop a piano on you or something. 

You certainly have some legends there


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## deerehunter (Jan 9, 2015)

Im with ya on the Banshees Brad. Once you've owned one there isnt a single cylinder four or two stroke quad that feels or sounds the same. Its kind of like triple cylinder skidoos. My buddies don't understand why I deal with the extra headache of keeping a triple running good but when you take a piped Mach Z 800 for a ride its pretty self explanatory! Much like your reason for wanting this saw I own a Mach Z pretty much cause it sounds cool! Nice saw I didn't realize such an animal even existed.


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## heimannm (Jan 9, 2015)

David Young said:


> I'm thinking karma
> Too balance that out you either had a horrible life or expect a coyote to drop a piano on you or something.
> 
> You certainly have some legends there



I also have a couple of BP399T McCulloch snowmobile engines, one we run from time to time just to hear the sweet music. The offset is that I spend 180 to 200 days per year away from home for business.

Brad, I would keep the first one "au natural" and save the full restoration for one that was not quite so nice to begin with. For me anyway, there is not much point in having it if you're not going to run it.

Mark


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## blsnelling (Jan 9, 2015)

heimannm said:


> I also have a couple of BP399T McCulloch snowmobile engines, one we run from time to time just to hear the sweet music. The offset is that I spend 180 to 200 days per year away from home for business.
> 
> Brad, I would keep the first one "au natural" and save the full restoration for one that was not quite so nice to begin with. For me anyway, there is not much point in having it if you're not going to run it.
> 
> Mark


It will definitely be run, no matter what I do with it. If I can't hear it run, it's not worth owning.


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## Bill G (Jan 10, 2015)

Ronaldo said:


> Yes, it was Chris's solo that i ran. I didnt realize that you had one as well.




I guess you missed it . In any event there were two Solo Twins there as well as many other rare saws


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## Ronaldo (Jan 10, 2015)

Yes, Bill, I missed it and I'm sure thats not all I missed. The Spring GTG is getting bigger with more going on every year. Hard to get everything looked at and everyone visited with, but I like the amount of people and saws that we have attend and hope it continues to be well attended.


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## glock37 (Jan 10, 2015)

Brad, Great Saw awesome Find !

Id say blast and Powder and go thru it make it run like new and use it

the powder will help protect the metal

it would go real nice next to your 041 G !


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## blsnelling (Jan 11, 2015)

No saw today. That's OK though. I had WAY too much to do to spend any time with the Twin. It should be here Monday.


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## bryanr2 (Jan 11, 2015)

is it coming from the states or abroad?


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## blsnelling (Jan 11, 2015)

States. It was supposed to be delivered today, but didn't make it up from Louisville yet, where it was last scanned.


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## blsnelling (Jan 12, 2015)

January 12, 2015 , 9:41 am

Out for Delivery

FRANKLIN, OH 45005


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## heimannm (Jan 12, 2015)

We will be expecting the "as arrived" photos tonight.

Mark


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Jan 12, 2015)

Now Brad you need to 1 of each solo twin. 

Ricks twins. Just 2 of many.  See the differences besides cc. 
Good solo twin thread elsewhere with pics. Some even have tuned pipes on them.


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## heimannm (Jan 12, 2015)

Twin twins, everyman's dream.

Mark


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## blsnelling (Jan 12, 2015)

What are the two different displacements?


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Jan 12, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> What are the two different displacements?



Sorry not off hand I cant do that anymore . You can look in the same thread I would have to look in for memory refresh.


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## blsnelling (Jan 12, 2015)

As I expected, I missed the delivery. I'll pick it up at the PO on the way home from work tomorrow.


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 12, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> As I expected, I missed the delivery. I'll pick it up at the PO on the way home from work tomorrow.


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## blsnelling (Jan 12, 2015)

Andyshine77 said:


>


That is a pic!


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 12, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> That is a pic!



Not the pick I wanted to see. You failed Brad, big time.


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## blsnelling (Jan 12, 2015)

Andyshine77 said:


> Not the pick I wanted to see. You failed Brad, big time.


I'm so sorry. I *WILL* do better tomorrow!!!


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## Andyshine77 (Jan 12, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> I'm so sorry. I *WILL* do better tomorrow!!!



Okay I forgive you.


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## LowVolt (Jan 12, 2015)




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## bryanr2 (Jan 12, 2015)

No way in Hell I would have trusted USPS to ship that saw. I wouldnt let them ship a bar.... let alone a Solo Twin. Somebody didnt think that thru to well.


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## stihlaficionado (Jan 12, 2015)

JeremiahJohnson said:


> Now Brad you need to 1 of each solo twin.
> 
> Ricks twins. Just 2 of many.  See the differences besides cc.
> Good solo twin thread elsewhere with pics. Some even have tuned pipes on them.
> ...


Those saws are in fantastic shape, look Brand new


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## LowVolt (Jan 12, 2015)

How could this happen?!? 

Saws are the center of the universe right?


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## blsnelling (Jan 12, 2015)

There probably was a day that I would have taken off work to pick this saw up. Not today, lol.


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## OnTheRoad (Jan 13, 2015)

I didn't find videos of a twin with tuned pipes and it's really a problem. Can somebody hook a brother up?


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## sgrizz (Jan 13, 2015)

I thought for sure we would of heard from brad by now.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

I've been in the garage all evening! LOOOOOOTTTTSSSS of pics coming.


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## Wannabe123 (Jan 13, 2015)

Cool thread, love the saw. I think I want one just to watch people scratch their head at the words "solo twin" put together.


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## CR500 (Jan 13, 2015)

Thinking of getting a banshee instead of a water-x sled/project for the summer

All this banshee talk leads me to the Quadzilla, It may have not pulled RPMs but it surely was a monster... something about 500cc od power always gets me. Even when it comes to sleds as of late I've been more attracted to 600-700cc power plants. Especially a stock 600 factory race buggy lol 

Sent from my non internal combustion device.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

This is going to be a ride, guys. I've got 91 pics to share. Normally, I wouldn't post them all, but due to how rare these are and the lack of info on them, I'm going to share them all.

Here she is, fresh out of the box.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

I did not plan to go where I ended up going with this saw tonight, but here we go. When I start on something, it's hard for me to stop, lol. I'm going to be sharing the good...the bad...and the ugly!

I knew I had some electrical issues. Here's the beginning of it.










The recoil cover has been repaired. My main concern is that it appears metal is missing, not just cracked.




















The cylinder cover hinge has been previously repaired as well.


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## sawfun (Jan 13, 2015)

I can't wait to hear that saw in a video. Exceptional saw Brad, congratulations.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

Here I have removed the muffler cover. Those are the exhaust port on both sides. They exit from the outside corners of the cylinders.





This is inside the muffler cover. The exhaust travels through the pipes before exiting.





This is the back side of the muffler backing, where it mates up to the cylinders.















So far, so good.










This is the most unique air filter I've ever seen! It's stacked metal plates.





Here I'm removing the coils and side of the saw. I know I've got to remove the fuel tank, due to known leak issues.





Uh oh. More trouble. This wire is broken off flush with the front coil.





What a rats nest! Should clean up easy enough though.





More trouble.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

sawfun said:


> I can't wait to hear that saw in a video. Exceptional saw Brad, congratulations.


That's going to be a while!


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

Here's a little service reminder for you. Silicone is not fuel proof!










It's out!










Well, here's a good sign!!!


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## sawfun (Jan 13, 2015)

It will be worth the wait. YouTube could use a few more videos of these in action. The audio is just so unique. One video from Germany sure made the saw seem aggressive. Its a definite 6 cube club saw.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

Uh oh! This isn't looking so good after all! This was certainly not expected. I know at this point that this saw is coming apart.










What's up with this cut out?





Uhg. This isn't looking so good. Someone has been in here, and in here recently!















What's up with the C and the arrows?





These arrows are pointing towards the inside corners of the cylinder.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

Here's some closeups of the piston. The sanding you see was already done when I pulled it apart. There are no high spots. While not pretty, this piston is serviceable. You do what you have to when working with old relics.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

A little studying revealed someones HUGE mistake. It's very obvious now why the last person to work on this saw could not get it running right. They bought it in this condition and were simply trying to make it run. Quite honestly, it amazes me that it ran at all. THE PISTONS WERE IN THE WRONG CYLINDERS, and they are not the same. Those cutouts are intended to clear the transfer ports in the cylinder. Instead, they were opening both the intake and exhaust ports! In effect, this would be like dropping the intake port timing by the amount of that cutout! The exhaust was free porting badly at TDC. That also meant the transfers couldn't open properly. When the saw was apart for repairs, the pistons were put back in wrong. It's no wonder this saw was sold a couple times before it made it to me. I'm just glad that I'm one to go through a saw before putting it to use. This would have caused me to pull the rest of my hair out, had I not torn the saw apart and found it.

Here I have put the pistons were they belong. Those arrows now point to the outside corners, directly at the exhaust ports. The cutouts now line up with the transfer port, both in the case, and in the cylinder.










See how that matches up with the transfer duct? The transfer port in the cylinder is directly above this.


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## Wannabe123 (Jan 13, 2015)

CR500 said:


> All this banshee talk leads me to the Quadzilla, It may have not pulled RPMs but it surely was a monster... something about 500cc od power always gets me. .



Banshees rip and are tons of fun, but I ride lots of technical, tight trails and like the four strokes for that kind of work, just dig that low end. That being said in a pit nothing beats a banshee for sheer giggles. HOWEVER, a quadzilla 500 is just plain maniacal. Only rode one. Think I'm good.

BAck on topic I love the pics. Amazing what kind of work goes into making a unique high quality machine of any kind. Keep em coming!


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

Here is the damaged cylinder as received. Remember...this is macro photography. While not pretty, it makes it look worse than it is. There is no transfer and no flaking NiSi.




















Here is the damaged cylinder after a little light sanding by hand. It's not perfect, but it's entirely serviceable. As shown in the compression tests above, the cylinder is in good shape where it really counts...at the top of the bore. This topend dodged a bullet!




















Here is the piston after some additional cleanup work. The skirt measures within .001" of the undamaged piston.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

Continuing with the disassembly. These are the recoil pawls. They actually ride directly on the crankshaft.










Not much left here! Where in the world is the crank seal?











Nice beefy crank.




















Where's that crank seal?





There it is! Lol.










18x24x3





Here's the flywheel side seal. 18x30x7










Don't loose these! There are three of these. The prevent the outer races from spinning in the crankcase.


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

Here's the broken fuel tank, with all of the silicone removed. This was a known issues with this saw. I understand that it's a common problem with this model. It looks like someone previously tried to plastic weld it as well.


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

That's all of the pics for now. I decided to go ahead and split the crankcase in order to make sure that all seals are good and the saw will be reliable and trust worthy. I think I'm going to go ahead and powder coat it while it's apart. It only makes sense to do it now, even though I'm very anxious to get it back together and running.

While I'm certainly not happy about the P&C damage that I found, I am relieved that it is serviceable. Quite honestly, it will probably have no affect on either performance or reliability. Like I said earlier, you do what you have to do when working with old saws like this. After all, this saw is 50 years old!


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

On a good note, I found no damage to the crankcase. The crank itself is also in very good condition. All of the bearings are smooth and tight. The rings have very good end gap. Fortunately, I'm able to make the necessary repairs, and this Solo Twin will live to HOWL another day!


----------



## big t double (Jan 13, 2015)

What's the plan with the fuel tank?


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## syrupmaker70 (Jan 13, 2015)

That is a lucky saw, it finally made it to good hands. Nice photos. Thanks


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## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

I don't know yet. Since even new ones are known to be cracked, it might be repaired. It's a very rigid plastic, and JBWeld is said to do a very nice job repairing them. When prepped for correctly, I've never seen JBWeld fail. I've even used it to repair the crankcase on an ATV!


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## syrupmaker70 (Jan 13, 2015)

jb weld won't hold up to gasoline. To weld any plastic, it has to be very clean. You might want to find a plastic fabricator, if you cannot find a new tank. Best of luck.


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 13, 2015)

syrupmaker70 said:


> jb weld won't hold up to gasoline. To weld any plastic, it has to be very clean. You might want to find a plastic fabricator, if you cannot find a new tank. Best of luck.


I've used it to repair 2-stroke crankcases, and even replace the divider between the fuel and oil tanks of and old saw. I've never had it fail.


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## LowVolt (Jan 13, 2015)

Maybe some sort of liner can be applied to the inside of the tank?


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 13, 2015)

Stuff a Ziploc bag in it then put mix in the bag


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## VinceGU05 (Jan 13, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Nik's parish priest will be coming by to give it a blessing. Fireworks are coming, courtesy of Rozzi 's Famous Fireworks. The parade will be led by the Budweiser draft horse team.


is the air force doing a fly over too while the anthem is played.. NASCAR style.


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## VinceGU05 (Jan 14, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> What do you think?
> 
> 
> Leave the finish as is.
> ...


Blast and coat. And it will be good for another 45 years.


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## drf255 (Jan 14, 2015)

Come on now Brad,

How are you resisting cleaning those ports up?

I can see you trembling from here.

VERY cool saw to say the least.


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## jughead500 (Jan 14, 2015)

Thats a lot like the suzuki t500's I work on.


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Come on now Brad,
> 
> How are you resisting cleaning those ports up?
> 
> ...


See that irregularity in that one transfer port?


----------



## Ronaldo (Jan 14, 2015)

This product has worked well for me on saw tanks. Found it at local parts store.


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## jughead500 (Jan 14, 2015)

Here's a picture of the t500 cylinders.the crank in these weigh around 25lb.


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

Ronaldo said:


> This product has worked well for me on saw tanks. Found it at local parts store.


I think they're may have been some of that under the silicone. I think I'll need something more substantial to full the cracks.


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

jughead500 said:


> Here's a picture of the t500 cylinders.the crank in these weigh around 25lb.View attachment 394477


That is very similar.


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## nnero (Jan 14, 2015)

This has to be one of my favorite threads ever. I cant wait to see the old beast come together. I agree, at this point definitely get it powder coated.


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## drf255 (Jan 14, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> See that irregularity in that one transfer port?


Is the cover that's cracked Mag or Aloominum?


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## M&Rtree (Jan 14, 2015)

Atleast everything is there and repairable. Going to look great powdered!


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Is the cover that's cracked Mag or Aloominum?


I'm sure it's mag alloy.


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## glock37 (Jan 14, 2015)

Brad get hold of me ill be more than happy to do the powdering for ya 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Four Paws (Jan 14, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> I'm sure it's mag alloy.



If you want to add metal for structural support, it is pretty easy to TIG some in there. If you aren't set up to make the repair, I am sure it will cost only a few bucks if you have a good fab shop close by.

I still vote for leaving the saw as is...

You can reassemble and run it right now. You can also appreciate the story the wear tells. It took 50 years to look this good...nicely used not beat. Plus, if you have to shake some bugs out of it, you don't need to worry about damaging the finish as you pull it back down.

Sorry to see the pistons, Brad. While we all want to see perfect pistons, the truth is, ugly pistons will run just fine. There is a large distance between desirable and servicable. This forum has a tendency to make most automatically assume that a blemished piston is garbage. However, this is just not true. 

As always, nice photography.


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

glock37 said:


> Brad get hold of me ill be more than happy to do the powdering for ya


I sent you an email a few minutes ago.


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

Four Paws said:


> Sorry to see the pistons, Brad. While we all want to see perfect pistons, the truth is, ugly pistons will run just fine. There is a large distance between desirable and servicable. This forum has a tendency to make most automatically assume that a blemished piston is garbage. However, this is just not true.


It's a different set of rules when working with something this old. If this were a modern saw and parts were really available, I'd definitely replace it. But, as you said, this piston is entirely serviceable and will run just fine.


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## JDNicol (Jan 14, 2015)

Are condensers available for these? 
The originals would have been Bosch, who ever made those also makes the replacement 070/090 condensers (solder on type) for Stihl.






They are 18mm in diameter and approx 22mm in height (from rim to base). 

I have seen a picture somewhere where you could just about make out a Bosch part number for the Solo Twin condenser to be 1 237 330 03X, I couldn't quite make out the last digit. The Stihl condensers (at some point in time) had Bosch part number 1 237 330 035.

I wonder if they interchange/are compatible?

Good luck with the rebuild


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

Thanks Jonathan. Every bit of info helps. New condensors would be good. The points look good.


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## cedarshark (Jan 14, 2015)

Brad, this is an amazing old saw and a great project. Do you consider this a clamshell motor design and have you ever seen an earlier one ? Is this the mother of clamshells ?


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

JDNicol said:


> Are condensers available for these?
> The originals would have been Bosch, who ever made those also makes the replacement 070/090 condensers (solder on type) for Stihl.
> 
> 
> ...


http://www.partsreloaded.com/Snowmo...Rotax-Short?gclid=CIO0oqX3k8MCFRSAaQod54IAMw&


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

cedarshark said:


> Brad, this is an amazing old saw and a great project. Do you consider this a clamshell motor design and have you ever seen an earlier one ? Is this the mother of clamshells ?


Yes, this is a clamshell of sorts. I'll make an exception this one time, lol


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## jughead500 (Jan 14, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Yes, this is a clamshell of sorts. I'll make an exception this one time, lol


I make an exception when I pick up a Mcculloch. Wonder what the Old School Clamshells do right that Stihl and the others got so wrong?


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

Gets a pic I didn't share last night!


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## stihlaficionado (Jan 14, 2015)

That crankshaft looks huge


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## JDNicol (Jan 14, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> http://www.partsreloaded.com/Snowmo...Rotax-Short?gclid=CIO0oqX3k8MCFRSAaQod54IAMw&



I paid a lot more than that last time I bought some via Stihl!
I did some research and it looks like 1 237 330 035 and 1 237 330 036 are fully interchangeable. ⌀18mm, height 21mm (or 22 depending where you measure), 0.18μF.

How are you going to approach fixing the coil?


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## blsnelling (Jan 14, 2015)

JDNicol said:


> How are you going to approach fixing the coil?


It will be replaced.


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## glock37 (Jan 14, 2015)

They look very simaler to the ones in a 041. 



JDNicol said:


> Are condensers available for these?
> The originals would have been Bosch, who ever made those also makes the replacement 070/090 condensers (solder on type) for Stihl.
> 
> 
> ...


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## Natty Bumppo (Jan 14, 2015)

I skipped a couple pages in the middle, so apologies if this has already been asked: why did the twin piston concept die out? Was it a weight issue? Issues with timing?


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## Dan_IN_MN (Jan 14, 2015)

Congrats! Is it running yet? LoL~!


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## Full Chisel (Jan 14, 2015)

Congrats man, those are really unique. Nothing screams like a built banshee, a saw with a twin piston engine is definitely high on the fun factor.


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## cbfarmall (Jan 15, 2015)

It's nice to know what's inside my Twin. I take it the crank center bearing is good. From what I know, that is a non-servicable part.

Brad, I have some old Intertec manuals that cover this saw. I can shoot pics of the relevant pages for you if you'd like.

Chris B.


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## drf255 (Jan 15, 2015)

stihlaficionado said:


> That crankshaft looks huge


Why thank you


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## leeha (Jan 15, 2015)

Nice job Brad, No wonder that thing didn't run. Sure glad
i didn't go any farther than i did when in my possesion.
I knew it had some issues but nothing like this. This will
inspire me to get mine running. May even take it down as
far as this saw.


Lee


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## Jacob J. (Jan 15, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Here's the broken fuel tank, with all of the silicone removed. This was a known issues with this saw. I understand that it's a common problem with this model. It looks like someone previously tried to plastic weld it as well.



My Solo Twin gas tank has a huge split in it as well. It comes from people leaving them sitting with gas in them and temperature changes make the tank swell and collapse.


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## cedarshark (Jan 15, 2015)

I thought the tank vent is there to prevent this from occuring and maintain atmospheric pressure in the tank ?


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## Bill G (Jan 16, 2015)

I am very interested in how the ignition mouse nest works out


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## blsnelling (Jan 17, 2015)

The parts are all cleaned up, boxed up, and ready to head to Mike.


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## blsnelling (Jan 17, 2015)

Here is the most serious defect I now have to deal with. The clutch cover had previously been repaired. I was hoping that it was only crack, but expected to find metal actually missing. That was indeed the case.
















I talked to Mike, and the parts will be heated to 380°F for 10 minutes. If the filler in this part could withstand that heat, I might consider leaving most of it there, and simply skimming it with the filler he uses that will accept the powder. So, I put it in the over. Major fail. The filler fell out in it's entirety. What are the possibilities of welding replacement metal where the original metal is missing?


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## komatsuvarna (Jan 17, 2015)

Id think it could be done. I know if it was steel I could fix it easily and not be noticed. Aluminum or Magnesium?


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## Jacob J. (Jan 17, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> What are the possibilities of welding replacement metal where the original metal is missing?



It depends on the base material. If it's a common alloy then it's an easy fix. You just cut thin strips of a matching alloy and build the area up with several passes. If it's "pot metal" , that's problematic. 

I tried to get a broken 07-S shroud repaired years ago but it was an unknown pot metal and didn't turn out too well.


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## Four Paws (Jan 17, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Here is the most serious defect... What are the possibilities of welding replacement metal where the original metal is missing?



Easy repair for a good welder with a TIG. Use magnesium filler rod. 

If I were you I would get ahold of Scarr...send him your part and whatever he is gonna charge you plus a little beer money, and feel confident that you will get back a properly repaired cover.


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## blsnelling (Jan 17, 2015)

That's what I like to hear. I'm assuming this is the same mag alloy that most saws are cast from. This piece is .080"-.085" thick. Replacement pieces wouldn't have to be the same exact thickness. The back side obviously won't show. Also, I can do a little "body work" with the filler Mike's sending me.


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 18, 2015)

I would not use replacement pieces but fill the whole thing with filler rod. You would need the part that it is mated to also so that the correct length and width is correct. One example.


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## srcarr52 (Jan 19, 2015)

3000 FPS said:


> I would not use replacement pieces but fill the whole thing with filler rod. You would need the part that it is mated to also so that the correct length and width is correct. One example.
> 
> View attachment 395694
> View attachment 395695
> ...



I hate how no matter how hard you try with mag you always seem to have some pits from the impurities. You end up touching it up after blending welds to try to get the big pits out.


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 19, 2015)

srcarr52 said:


> I hate how no matter how hard you try with mag you always seem to have some pits from the impurities. You end up touching it up after blending welds to try to get the big pits out.



Oh yea. I have welded the same area up to 3 times trying to get it perfect. That is one reason I like to
shape the part after welding so that I can find the imperfections and weld them again a little better.


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## drf255 (Jan 20, 2015)

Brad, if you could mock up some steel or copper to match the inside curves, that can be done with AC tig. 

Mg filler rod is some pricey stuff though. Over $100 for a pound of wire. 

You need someone really good that won't screw up that irreplaceable part.


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## srcarr52 (Jan 20, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Brad, if you could mock up some steel or copper to match the inside curves, that can be done with AC tig.
> 
> Mg filler rod is some pricey stuff though. Over $100 for a pound of wire.
> 
> You need someone really good that won't screw up that irreplaceable part.



No need to use a backer with a tig welder. You can just make multiple passes and grow the material up.

AZ92A filler rod goes for ~$75 a pound.


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## drf255 (Jan 20, 2015)

srcarr52 said:


> No need to use a backer with a tig welder. You can just make multiple passes and grow the material up.
> 
> AZ92A filler rod goes for ~$75 a pound.


Hmmm...

You must be better than me. .080 Mg or Al?

Build up entire curvature free hand with no backer?

Good Luck.


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## srcarr52 (Jan 20, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Hmmm...
> 
> You must be better than me. .080 Mg or Al?
> 
> ...



Not saying it's easy but with mag it's hard enough to get a decent weld without pores. With a backer on it and I'd have to pass back over that whole side to bubble out the pores and add filler to float the contaminates up to the top. So instead I'll opt to build up the material about 1/4" thick the whole way and then shape it back down to the correct size, just like in the example that 3000 FPS posted.

With proper care and willingness to finish your weld a lot of things can be recreated.
















This whole corner was missing.


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## drf255 (Jan 20, 2015)

Those are great repairs above. but I cant see how you'd float that entire cover out.

So you'd weld it all .250 thick, then grind it all down to .080?


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## srcarr52 (Jan 20, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Those are great repairs above. but I cant see how you'd float that entire cover out.
> 
> So you'd weld it all .250 thick, then grind it all down to .080?



Because there is about 2" that needs to be built up around 1/4"-3/8", and then there is the corner which needs a lot. All of which has original material to follow or extrapolate off.

Yes, I would over build the area missing and back onto the existing material to assure good bonding. The weld would end up around 1/4" thick where there is a lot missing. Then I'd finish it down to close what the original thickness is, most likely between 0.100" and 0.120" thick.


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## Mastermind (Jan 20, 2015)

Shawn can do it !!!!!

Nice thread.


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## drf255 (Jan 20, 2015)

srcarr52 said:


> Because there is about 2" that needs to be built up around 1/4"-3/8", and then there is the corner which needs a lot. All of which has original material to follow or extrapolate off.
> 
> Yes, I would over build the area missing and back onto the existing material to assure good bonding. The weld would end up around 1/4" thick where there is a lot missing. Then I'd finish it down to close what the original thickness is, most likely between 0.100" and 0.120" thick.


Interesting. I'd like to see more of your work in some threads. Don't want to hijack this one.

I have a 300 amp AC/DC inverter tig. I've done lots of aluminum, but never Mag. Is it "stickier", or does it want to run away from you like Aluminum?


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## srcarr52 (Jan 20, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Interesting. I'd like to see more of your work in some threads. Don't want to hijack this one.
> 
> I have a 300 amp AC/DC inverter tig. I've done lots of aluminum, but never Mag. Is it "stickier", or does it want to run away from you like Aluminum?



In my opinion mag is easier weld than aluminum. There is no oxide skin, you can dip your tungsten in the pool and not have carbon everywhere, it won't stick to the tungsten. The only problem is dealing with mag rot or impurities that are everywhere in the cast that always leave pores. Other than that it's really similar to aluminum as far as weld setting and material pooling. 

Inverter tig, better than what I have. I have an 1985ish Lincoln tig 300 old school sine wave. I'm lucky enough to have the big single phase service to run it, 115 amps full throttle. 

If brad does send this part to me I'll try to make a video. Maybe I can put the camera behind a blink.


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## blsnelling (Jan 20, 2015)

JDNicol said:


> I paid a lot more than that last time I bought some via Stihl!
> I did some research and it looks like 1 237 330 035 and 1 237 330 036 are fully interchangeable. ⌀18mm, height 21mm (or 22 depending where you measure), 0.18μF.
> 
> How are you going to approach fixing the coil?


I appreciate the help and research on those. I just ordered a pair of those. The crank seals are ordered. All of the parts are boxed up and will be headed to Mike tomorrow. Let's get this show on the road!


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 20, 2015)

On this crank case it needed welding in two spots. Both were done in the fashion that srcarr52 was referring to with running a bead on top of a bead.


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## 3000 FPS (Jan 20, 2015)

srcarr52 is also an excellent welder and I am sure would do a fine job.

The finished parts from above photos.


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## srcarr52 (Jan 20, 2015)

3000 FPS said:


> srcarr52 is also an excellent welder and I am sure would do a fine job.
> 
> The finished parts from above photos.View attachment 396489
> View attachment 396490



You do some great work as well.


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## VinceGU05 (Jan 20, 2015)

i have to weld up ribs at work 1/8 wide and up to 1" high.. layer upon layer. a welder with pulse is the go with 50/50 on/off. steel is alot easier than any ally's thats for sure. ally needs to be religiously clean and a bit of pre heating.


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## srcarr52 (Jan 20, 2015)

VinceGU05 said:


> i have to weld up ribs at work 1/8 wide and up to 1" high.. layer upon layer. a welder with pulse is the go with 50/50 on/off. steel is alot easier than any ally's thats for sure. ally needs to be religiously clean and a bit of pre heating.



Pulse would be nice, I have to be old school and do it with my foot.


----------



## drf255 (Jan 20, 2015)

So backers are a NoGo on Mag, good to know. 

Nice work you posted for sure. 

I have a Japanese made TA Arcmaster 300. Adjustable frequency and EN.


----------



## 3000 FPS (Jan 20, 2015)

drf255 said:


> So backers are a NoGo on Mag, good to know.
> 
> Nice work you posted for sure.
> 
> I have a Japanese made TA Arcmaster 300. Adjustable frequency and EN.



No I think backers have their place and have used them before, and sometimes it does make it easier.
Just saying on this you can do a bead on top of bead. I have done them both ways.

I use a Miller synchrowave 250.


----------



## VinceGU05 (Jan 20, 2015)

i got a Kemppi MasterTIG 3500w. love it!


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## srcarr52 (Jan 20, 2015)

I've been thinking about upgrading to a inverter. I think the everlast welders are the best bang for the buck. But the old Lincoln keeps on sparking nice arcs.


----------



## drf255 (Jan 21, 2015)

3000 FPS said:


> No I think backers have their place and have used them before, and sometimes it does make it easier.
> Just saying on this you can do a bead on top of bead. I have done them both ways.
> 
> I use a Miller synchrowave 250.


Syncros are great. I had a 250. Didn't have the power to feed it. 





srcarr52 said:


> I've been thinking about upgrading to a inverter. I think the everlast welders are the best bang for the buck. But the old Lincoln keeps on sparking nice arcs.


Go over to Weldingweb.com and ask about that first. I would never trade that Lincoln out for an Everlast, ever.

I though pulse was a no go with Aluminum. Same with Mg?


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## VinceGU05 (Jan 21, 2015)

drf255 said:


> I though pulse was a no go with Aluminum. Same with Mg?



I use pulse nearly all the time. Unless I am doing heavy sections and need the heat. 
I have never tried welding Mg.


----------



## srcarr52 (Jan 21, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Go over to Weldingweb.com and ask about that first. I would never trade that Lincoln out for an Everlast, ever.
> 
> I though pulse was a no go with Aluminum. Same with Mg?



Pulse is your friend with Al, Mg welds the same.

I'd never get rid of the Lincoln. I'd just get something that works better for intricate work, when I don't need the 300 amp sledge hammer.


----------



## drf255 (Jan 21, 2015)

srcarr52 said:


> Pulse is your friend with Al, Mg welds the same.
> 
> I'd never get rid of the Lincoln. I'd just get something that works better for intricate work, when I don't need the 300 amp sledge hammer.


People like the AHP a lot. Rebranded Everlast with some upgrades. Around $800 all in, but you get what u pay for.

The TA 186 is the best bang for the buck with reliable brands. I think they got the kinks out of their pedal issues. 

This thread has been DERAILED.


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## glock37 (Jan 25, 2015)

I got the twin in the mail fri removed all the pieces got to be 15 pieces i never seen anything like it 
Found a close match to the red in powder 

Started blasting the crankcase you could use air to take old paint off but will need surface for powder to stick Thats where im at so far 
More to come when i get down shop again 

Mike 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mastermind (Jan 25, 2015)

Take pics Mike.....


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## glock37 (Jan 25, 2015)

Yes i can 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## UpOnTheHill (Jan 25, 2015)

Subscribed


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

Progress is being made. The clutch cover is repaired and will be heading to Mike tomorrow. I have no reason at all whether to use 3000 FPS or srscarr52. I've had both do work for me, and both have done a great job. This job went to Shaun, for no particular reason. It's hard to believe that much metal was actually missing. It's not any more! Here it is after I filled the pin holes. I can see in the pics that there are still a couple tiny ones. For some reason, it's VERY difficult to fill them. I've applied 4-5 coats an they don't like to fill Besides, they are so tiny that you can hardly see them with the naked eye.

Here it as after filling.
















Chain knicks.










The filler didn't need to be in the corner there, but didn't want to mess up the finish trying to sand it out.


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

Here it is after welding/before filling. Shaun will be posting a video in the next couple of days. That will be pretty cool.


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

Unfortunately, Mike found a crack after blasting another one of the pieces clean. This piece is headed to Shaun for repair.


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2015)

That looks great Shawn does good work on everything he puts his hand to. 

Brad, have to tried pushing the filler in the pits with your finger?


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

Here's the filler Mike uses. He was kind enough to send me enough to make these finishing repairs.


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> That looks great Shawn does good work on everything he puts his hand to.
> 
> Brad, have to tried pushing the filler in the pits with your finger?


I have. I apply it with a razor blade, at Mike's suggestion, and scrape filler over the hole in every direction. I guess it's viscous enough that it doesn't want to go in those tiniest holes and displace the air.


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2015)

I've got some from him too. We are going back to restoring a Remington 990 now that we have a bead blaster.


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## LowVolt (Feb 1, 2015)

Shaun knows his chit when it comes to these mag welds. He fixed a couple 361 case halves for me.

Looking good!


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> I have. I apply it with a razor blade, at Mike's suggestion, and scrape filler over the hole in every direction. *I guess it's viscous enough that it doesn't want to go in those tiniest holes and displace the air.*



That was what I thought. I've found that rubbing it in with a lot of pressure with just your thumb to work best to get it in there.


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## 3000 FPS (Feb 1, 2015)

Wow that looks great. Good job Shaun. For those pin holes I use JB weld a lot the time.


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## Ray Bell (Feb 1, 2015)

Can't wait to see the finished product. There are some real craftsmen on this forum.


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

Here are some pics of the other parts from Mike.


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

3000 FPS said:


> Wow that looks great. Good job Shaun. For those pin holes I use JB weld a lot the time.


I have great confidence in JBWeld. One thing I love about this filler Mike sent me, is that I can throw it in a toaster oven at 225°F for 25 minutes and it's rock hard, ready to sand.


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2015)

I'm not sure JB Weld, or even Devcon would work under powder coat. The baking might be too hot, even if it would allow adhesion.


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## glock37 (Feb 1, 2015)

heres the data sheet on EPO STRONG


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## 3000 FPS (Feb 1, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> I'm not sure JB Weld, or even Devcon would work under powder coat. The baking might be too hot, even if it would allow adhesion.



I forget that he is having everything powder coated and I have never tried the JB weld under high heat.


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## glock37 (Feb 1, 2015)

ive tried jb weld it holds up under the heat but it wont allow adhesion of powder it must have a oil in it it results in fisheye like marks in powder when cured !


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## 3000 FPS (Feb 1, 2015)

glock37 said:


> ive tried jb weld it holds up under the heat but it wont allow adhesion of powder it must have a oil in it it results in fisheye like marks in powder when cured !



Good to know thanks.


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## drf255 (Feb 1, 2015)

Looks great. 

Thanks for sharing.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 1, 2015)

Thanks for all the great comments guys. Brad, the filler looks nice. 

The video is done... uploading now.


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## gaspipe (Feb 1, 2015)

Looking fantastic! I'm looking forward to the finished saw. Twins sound great.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 1, 2015)




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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

I love the video Shaun. I really appreciate having that to add to this restoration. I'd love to know how you re-profiled the part after welding.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 1, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> I love the video Shaun. I really appreciate having that to add to this restoration. I'd love to know how you re-profiled the part after welding.



I did most of it with a roll lock sanding arbor on a right angle die grinder. A little was done with a stationary 6" belt sander and the intricate parts are with a foredom.


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

Your re-shaping work was spectacular! It looks as though it were machined! There are NO waves, divots, etc.


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## 3000 FPS (Feb 1, 2015)

The welding is only half the work that goes into something like that.


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## blsnelling (Feb 1, 2015)

3000 FPS said:


> The welding is only half the work that goes into something like that.


Exactly!


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## srcarr52 (Feb 1, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Your re-shaping work was spectacular! It looks as though it were machined! There are NO waves, divots, etc.



I use some techniques I learned from repairing or cutting on tube race cars. Once you get close to the original surface you use roll lock sanding disks and keep it pressed flat and hard against the tube. Ensuring that you don't grind a divot in and that the surface is flat. The sanding disk will naturally pick on the high spot.


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## LowVolt (Feb 1, 2015)

Dude has skillz.


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## Andyshine77 (Feb 2, 2015)

Excellent work gentlemen!!

If you guys are having a hard time with the filler, there should be a glazing version. The glaze should be much thinner, like wood glue.


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## Jason Smoot (Feb 2, 2015)

Subscribed.


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## MarylandGuy (Feb 2, 2015)

3000 FPS said:


> The welding is only half the work that goes into something like that.



From my perspective, the sanding part looks far more difficult. All I can say is wow.


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## 3000 FPS (Feb 2, 2015)

MarylandGuy said:


> From my perspective, the sanding part looks far more difficult. All I can say is wow.



It can be time consuming that is for sure.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 3, 2015)

MarylandGuy said:


> From my perspective, the sanding part looks far more difficult. All I can say is wow.



I guess I'll have to make a video of that someday.


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## Bitburger (Feb 3, 2015)

thats a very very nice restauration! The welding job on the one hand, the very positive way you handle and fix the discovered issues on the other hand, 
lots of inspiration! Congratulations how you build such a nice saw in the end!

One question, I recently fixed a broken case with glass fiber and epoxy, and kept minor cracks in a sprocket 
cover that might have been there for 40 year not affecting the performance...

For the cover, why did you select welding over a better job using fiber reinforced epoxy? Because you just 
had a colleague with an amazing skillset? Because in terms of stability, the missing corner would not have to be 
very resistant to mechanical stress...

and finally, how much original paint has to be sacrificed in case of welding? How big
would be the area that would burn away or change color? Sth. like 3 inch or more?

very nice, thanks a lot for showing all those details!


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## LegDeLimber (Feb 3, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> I have. I apply it with a razor blade, at Mike's suggestion, and scrape filler over the hole in every direction. I guess it's viscous enough that it doesn't want to go in those tiniest holes and displace the air.





Mastermind said:


> That looks great Shawn does good work on everything he puts his hand to.
> 
> Brad, have to tried pushing the filler in the pits with your finger?



Have you guys tried something like a toothpick?
Granted the hole has to be large enough for it to fit into.
Or something like a needle or small wire, with the tip a bit flattened.
Just work it almost like you're trying to scratch it out.

In places like that crack in the blasted part, I've used the small wire trick
to work glue into a crack or even a coarse textured surface.


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## Fubar (Feb 3, 2015)

killer saw ! didn't echo make a twin as well ? how many others made twins?


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## srcarr52 (Feb 13, 2015)

Fixed, heading your way soon brad.


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## Rx7man (Feb 13, 2015)

Anyone else see the irony of a SOLO and a TWIN?

Nice saw, too bad I can't see the vid from here, I'll try and see it when I have real internet access.


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## SAWMIKAZE (Feb 13, 2015)

Im not really into the old saws brad but that thing is pretty damn cool


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## drf255 (Feb 13, 2015)

Nice job Srcarr. 

I see what you mean about Mag welding. Looks ALOT more forgiving than Aluminum.

So pretty much you use the laywire technique on AC? 

Which filler rod and how many did you use? 

The grinding and shaping look harder than the welding, but then again, that's what happens when you watch anyone whose good at it.


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## blsnelling (Feb 13, 2015)

Thanks Shaun. 

Here's where Mike was a few days ago with the parts.


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

Hi brad im off today some or all of the parts may be powdered today i got to do some filling on the cover after blasting Ill take pics as a can during the process 

Its hard sometimes to visualize how it goes together but i go thru pics u posted to help and to get the parts that get red and black. Because after blasting they all look the same 
Brad any idea when the other piece is returning 


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## blsnelling (Feb 13, 2015)

glock37 said:


> Brad any idea when the other piece is returning


I'll fill the pores as soon as I get it back and get it headed your way. Hopefully you'll have it next week.


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

Even if i get these parts done we can do this part even if the others are done just send back all together 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LegDeLimber (Feb 13, 2015)

Is it it feasible or even doable to run a hot pass or two, no filler rod, just arc only
and see if the metal finishes out-gassing the contaminates?
Odd as it might seem, we had some repair work on greasy carbon steel 
(With No information about what additive package any of the lubes had carried)
and couldn't seem to cook it off with taking it orange heat w/oxy-acetylene
and letting it cool to room temp/bare hand pick-it-up temps.
Something in the back of my head said try running a quick thin pass at a slightly
over volted/hot setting of the mig gun.
That seemed to do the the trick! A bit of cleaning the slightly funky looking specks of slag/scale, light kiss with the sander,
and you were ready to tig on the repair bits.

I never had any chance to try my hand at welding Magnesium.. 
Got fairly comfortable with the occasional aluminum parts that came through the shop [ probably 60xx alloy mostly]
( counting owner, we were about a 6~8 man, jobshop-machining/fabrication co.)
The power supply was a Lincoln Idealarc 300, so no options for trying any interesting waveforms or duty cycles of them etc.

sheesh that's been a long time, nowdays I cant even recall the percentages of the tri-mix
gas we generally ran on the mig rig [ CO2/Argon/Helium ] Makes for way less spatter.


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## drf255 (Feb 13, 2015)

I routinely run a quick pass over cast aluminum and rebrush before laying a bead. Totally works. 

The mag welding I saw above looks different than anything I've watched in the past. Of course, talented people always make things look easier than they are. It looks much less finicky than aluminum and appears to be easier to build up.


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## drf255 (Feb 13, 2015)

LegDeLimber said:


> Is it it feasible or even doable to run a hot pass or two, no filler rod, just arc only
> and see if the metal finishes out-gassing the contaminates?
> Odd as it might seem, we had some repair work on greasy carbon steel
> (With No information about what additive package any of the lubes had carried)
> ...


Trimix is for stainless MIG. Helium straight or added to Argon is for DCEN aluminum (pure He) or for thicker aluminum than can be done with the Amps you're using.


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## LegDeLimber (Feb 13, 2015)

Should I be sweating about all of the hot or cold rolled, carbon steel that I mud-daubered a bead onto?
Whilst running that mix.

A fellow can ask for info and read up on some things before running a job
and tell himself that he did some reasonable, due diligence "research"
But there's never been anything to beat some honest, hands on time 
and a few (hopefully ,very, very few) re-lickings of some workpieces
To truly make a safe & durable product provider, out of a shop worker.


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## heimannm (Feb 13, 2015)

Been busy lately and missed a few things lately. Really looking great Shaun and Brad. If I ever have anything worth the effort I will certainly enlist Shaun's help since I need to visit his shop anyway.

Mike, looking forward to some photos of the powder coating process. You have some powder like the old McCulloch yellow?

My hack paint job on the CP125 is embarrassing compared to this project.

Mark


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

Mark just need a sample to closely match it being new its going tto be brighter and yellow 


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## heimannm (Feb 13, 2015)

If I don't get 'round tuit before, I will send something home with you from KY in September.

Mark


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

Yeah sure send it before and i can have for the gtg 


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## Magnum783 (Feb 13, 2015)

LegDeLimber said:


> Is it it feasible or even doable to run a hot pass or two, no filler rod, just arc only
> and see if the metal finishes out-gassing the contaminates?
> Odd as it might seem, we had some repair work on greasy carbon steel
> (With No information about what additive package any of the lubes had carried)
> ...


When metal is heated to a neutral or aneahile state and a cleaning gas is introduced this is truly the easiest way to clean metal or remove debris. BTW Shaun did not do a good job but an amazing he is truly in the top of his field. Some people just have the knack for it. I am jealous of people that just get it. I had to put a ton of practice to get as good as I am but I guess that just makes me appreciate it more. [emoji57]


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## SAWMIKAZE (Feb 13, 2015)

glock37 said:


> Even if i get these parts done we can do this part even if the others are done just send back all together
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Mike quit dickin around with brads parts , he can wait ..let me off my leash on those ash trees in trafford


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## srcarr52 (Feb 13, 2015)

drf255 said:


> Nice job Srcarr.
> 
> I see what you mean about Mag welding. Looks ALOT more forgiving than Aluminum.
> 
> ...



Thanks. Yes, AC with AZ92A filler. The shaping takes patients.



LegDeLimber said:


> Is it it feasible or even doable to run a hot pass or two, no filler rod, just arc only
> and see if the metal finishes out-gassing the contaminates?



I've done it before and you still end up with some pits, you can reduce the number but you'll never get them all out. On AL or dirty steel it works fine but mag is a different beast. It would probably be better if I had a square wave tig that had AC ballance. Then I could turn up the cleaning action and bring that stuff up to the surface easier, but all I have is an old sine wave tig.


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 13, 2015)

Very skilled repairs great job !


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

Well did some powdering today got all the parts done except the side plate out being welded








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## LowVolt (Feb 13, 2015)

How r u going to do the "twin" lettering?


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## leeha (Feb 13, 2015)

Fantastic work Sean, Do you mind if ask 
where you buy the AZ92A welding rod.


Lee


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

Thats up to brad Mask off at paint black idk 


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

The red powder looks awesome pics dont do it justice 


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

How are the colors brad ? 


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## blsnelling (Feb 13, 2015)

I'm officially *EXCITED!!!* Those parts look fantastic!

Here the are edited a little.


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## blsnelling (Feb 13, 2015)

glock37 said:


> How are the colors brad ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


*Beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*


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## glock37 (Feb 13, 2015)

Glad u like they look better in person 


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## blsnelling (Feb 13, 2015)

LowVolt said:


> How r u going to do the "twin" lettering?


I will mask off the area that isn't supposed to be red, then paint it with a hardened enamel. I'll then block sand the flats of the letters back to bare metal, and then probably clear coat the black and bare area.


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## drf255 (Feb 14, 2015)

Man, that's nice looking.


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## srcarr52 (Feb 14, 2015)

leeha said:


> Fantastic work Sean, Do you mind if ask
> where you buy the AZ92A welding rod.
> 
> 
> Lee



eBay a long time ago.


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## Ray Bell (Feb 14, 2015)

This collaborative effort is going to result in a beautiful work of art between Brad, Shaun, and Mike. All very skilled perfectionists.


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## 3000 FPS (Feb 14, 2015)

leeha said:


> Fantastic work Sean, Do you mind if ask
> where you buy the AZ92A welding rod.
> 
> 
> Lee



You can go to almost any welding shop and they can order it for you. That is where I bought the filler rod I have.


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## mr.finn (Feb 15, 2015)

This thread is awesome!! Great work to all that are involved in resurrecting this saw and bringing it back to life. Can't wait to see(and hear!!) the finished build.


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## glock37 (Feb 15, 2015)

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=231480986528 


Atwin for sale in germany 


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## LowVolt (Feb 15, 2015)

3 G's for a chainsaw and you have four pictures? People are clueless....


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## blsnelling (Feb 15, 2015)

These saws sell rather regularly in Germany for $900-$1200. He's smoking rope at that price.


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## LowVolt (Feb 15, 2015)

I love smoking rope. Might be legal here soon in ohio.....


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## Mastermind (Feb 15, 2015)

Pics of the rope smoking? 

Please?


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## misery.whip1 (Feb 15, 2015)

And if it sells then what ??


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## misery.whip1 (Feb 21, 2015)

Well I wouldn't sneeze at US2500.00 put's in a completely different light now doesn't it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231480986528?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Well Tie me to a log and flog me ........................


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## glock37 (Mar 11, 2015)

Well brad has all the solo twin parts that where out to be powdered had to wait on a end part to get welded we powdered it and sent it on its way 
Well brad when she going back together ?


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## srcarr52 (Mar 31, 2015)

Whats the status of this restoration?


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## glock37 (Mar 31, 2015)

Any progress on this solo twin yet?


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## blsnelling (Mar 31, 2015)

None I'm always too busy working on other people's saws.


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## srcarr52 (Mar 31, 2015)

Isn't that the truth, I've had some of my personal chainsaw projects on hold for a couple of years now.


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## Jeff Lary (Mar 31, 2015)

keep after it,... I want to see her run ! good luck.


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## Sty57 (Jun 30, 2015)

Any updates on this bad boy? 

Thanks, Brian


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## blsnelling (Jun 30, 2015)

Unfortunately, no  Rest assured, it will be done........someday, lol.


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## Chris J. (Jul 1, 2015)

The good:

Congrats to...

You, Brad, for finally getting your Solo Twin, and putting in the effort to put it right .

To all of the guys helping with the repairs, parts, advice, etc. 

--------------------------------

The bad:

It's 01 Jul 15 and you still don't have it reassembled and running ?


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## jra1100 (Jul 1, 2015)

I just came across this and was surprised to NOT see the finished pics. Holy rollers is Shaun talented, I've been lucky enough to see some of his work in person and it is great. Don't know Mike, but the pics look great. What can you say about Brad? He really gets things figured out, who would have thunk that the pistons were put in wrong. Great thread!! Getur done now. JR


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## blsnelling (Jul 1, 2015)

If I could ever quit working on other peoples saws, I might get it done, lol


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## bulletpruf (May 16, 2017)

Bumping an old thread - Brad, how goes it with the twin?


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## blsnelling (May 16, 2017)

I haven't touched them in months


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## ferris076 (May 17, 2017)

Brad, your waiting so long for this saw and now u don't touch it :/


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## CR888 (May 17, 2017)

Brad does darn nice restored saws...like they look newer than NOS saws. My guess is he ain't gonna slap a twin unicorn saw together for the sake of it. This saw is serious business and needs to be done properly with full attention!


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## LowVolt (May 27, 2017)

CR888 said:


> Brad does darn nice restored saws...like they look newer than NOS saws. My guess is he ain't gonna slap a twin unicorn saw together for the sake of it. This saw is serious business and needs to be done properly with full attention!



Or he is too busy with axes, knives, buying cars and whatever else tickles his fancy. He is dragging ass on this solo twin period. Get off the couch and put this thing together. Geez.......

Lol. I love bustin him up over this solo.


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## stihlaficionado (May 27, 2017)

LowVolt said:


> Or he is too busy with axes, knives, buying cars and whatever else tickles his fancy. He is dragging ass on this solo twin period. Get off the couch and put this thing together. Geez.......
> 
> Lol. I love bustin him up over this solo.


Not yet...first a couple other "customer saws" then we'll let him lose


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## blsnelling (Aug 22, 2017)

After 2 1/2 years............!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rob had the distinct honor of being the first to start and run it, since I'm still recovering. Thanks for the hand, Rob!!! @Stihl 041S


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## VinceGU05 (Aug 22, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> After 2 1/2 years............!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Rob had the distinct honor of being the first to start and run it, since I'm still recovering. Thanks for the hand, Rob!!! @Stihl 041S



great to see the end project. and wow she looks and sounds fantastic!


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## Andyshine77 (Aug 22, 2017)

That's awesome gentleman WTG! How many hours did it take to put her back together?

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


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## blsnelling (Aug 22, 2017)

Andyshine77 said:


> That's awesome gentleman WTG! How many hours did it take to put her back together?
> 
> Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


A LOT! That's one of the big reasons I never worked on it. It wasn't just a matter of putting it together...I had to figure out how it went together. The countless other saws I've worked on were of no essential help in putting this thing together. It's built unlike any other saw I know. To answer your question, about 12 hours.


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## leeha (Aug 22, 2017)

Nice job Brad. Thinking I had that saw in my possession for a bit. She sounds great
and now gives me a little inspiration to get mine up and running.

Hope your feeling better.

Lee


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## blsnelling (Aug 22, 2017)

I was laying in bed last week and talked myself into getting this thing together while I'm off recuperating from surgery. Yesterday I thought I'd start by cleaning the bench off and going through all the parts. I'd then work on it a little each day, taking several days to complete it. But as always, once I started, I couldn't quit. It was a marathon session, literally all night last night. I finished about 7 AM. All that was left was to get a rope for the starter. I couldn't start it myself anyway, so when Rob got here this afternoon, we dropped by the Stihl dealer, got some rope, and proceeded to fire it up. 

There are a few details left to finish. The background around the Solo name on both the recoil and the cylinder cover is supposed to be black. Then the letters are polished back to bare metal. I'm also searching for a new bar. I'm thinking a 24" will be plenty.

I also have a second Solo Twin that I bought since I got this first one. It has the less common 110cc cylinders and the topend is literally like new. It looks to have hardly been run. I planned to put them on this saw, but that wasn't to be. The pistons have drop into the crankcase at least 1/2" at BDC and the case on this other Twin is larger to accept them. It was way too much material to try and remove on my already assembled crankcase. I have a few hurdles to jump, but I plan to finish this second Twin and have it running as well. It won't be a complete cosmetic restoration, but should be a good solid runner when I'm done.

Here I'm starting to sort through parts.






Parts from the second Twin.





Figuring out how the crank and case go together. I've already bolted the bottom of the oil reservoir onto the bottom of the crankcase. This thing is built more like a motorcycle/quad engine than a chainsaw.





The shortblock is together.










Sadly, that's all the pics I took during the assembly. It was a chore. Everything has to go together in the right order. I also installed new condensers and cleaned up the wiring.















I didn't yet have the air filter cleaner knob on it in this pic.


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## blsnelling (Aug 22, 2017)

leeha said:


> Nice job Brad. Thinking I had that saw in my possession for a bit. She sounds great
> and now gives me a little inspiration to get mine up and running.
> 
> Hope your feeling better.
> ...


This is it!


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## SeMoTony (Aug 22, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> A LOT! That's one of the big reasons I never worked on it. It wasn't just a matter of putting it together...I had to figure out how it went together. The countless other saws I've worked on were of no essential help in putting this thing together. It's built unlike any other saw I know. To answer your question, about 12 hours.


Brad; that is a remarkable bit of work and the sound is got me researching auctions further away, just in case. Just in case turns out to be the saying that has me getting stuff that might not ever be used by me, like the 60" cannon bar in my avatar. Good to hear you are able to toil thru the night with no major adversities.


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## blsnelling (Aug 22, 2017)

SeMoTony said:


> Good to hear you are able to toil thru the night with no major adversities.


I thought I might pay for it, but I don't feel bad at all today!


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## blsnelling (Aug 22, 2017)

Can someone confirm the bar mount pattern on these? The bar studs measure 10mm, so I'm thinking it must be a D024 mount. 

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...980fb87c02a98a5088256e0e001fee75?OpenDocument


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## Andyshine77 (Aug 23, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> I thought I might pay for it, but I don't feel bad at all today!


Yeah I was a bit concerned when you started talking about working all night.[emoji33] I just don't want to hear you hurt yourself. But than again you may have extra energy because your body isn't constantly fighting an infection. 

Awesome work getting it back together, I'll be up there to check in with you sometime soon, maybe hear that thing run in person.

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


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## srcarr52 (Aug 23, 2017)

I bet it feels great to finally finish this project. The parts/powder turned out great.


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## blsnelling (Aug 23, 2017)

Andyshine77 said:


> Yeah I was a bit concerned when you started talking about working all night.[emoji33] I just don't want to hear you hurt yourself. But than again you may have extra energy because your body isn't constantly fighting an infection.
> 
> Awesome work getting it back together, I'll be up there to check in with you sometime soon, maybe hear that thing run in person.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


You can be the first to cut with it


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## blsnelling (Aug 23, 2017)

srcarr52 said:


> I bet it feels great to finally finish this project. The parts/powder turned out great.


Please forgive my memory, but did you or 3000 FPS do the welding for me?


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## blsnelling (Aug 23, 2017)

LowVolt said:


> Or he is too busy with axes, knives, buying cars and whatever else tickles his fancy. He is dragging ass on this solo twin period. Get off the couch and put this thing together. Geez.......
> 
> Lol. I love bustin him up over this solo.


Hey bud, check out what I finally did!


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## Den (Aug 23, 2017)

Congratulations. Sometimes its great how things work out...perfect timing.


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## srcarr52 (Aug 23, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> Please forgive my memory, but did you or 3000 FPS do the welding for me?



I did.


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## blsnelling (Aug 23, 2017)

srcarr52 said:


> I did.


It looks great!


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## Modifiedmark (Aug 23, 2017)

Nice job Brad. They are awesome saws


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## blsnelling (Aug 23, 2017)

Final touches are in progress. I sanded the red powder coat off the highs, taped it off and sprayed it black. Once cured, I'll sand the black off the highs. I didn't get a shot of the highs sanded off before the black paint.


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## hanniedog (Aug 23, 2017)

Glad you finally got a chance to work on this saw just wish it was under different circumstances.


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## LowVolt (Aug 24, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> Hey bud, check out what I finally did!


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## Modifiedmark (Aug 24, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> Can someone confirm the bar mount pattern on these? The bar studs measure 10mm, so I'm thinking it must be a D024 mount.
> 
> http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...980fb87c02a98a5088256e0e001fee75?OpenDocument


 

I think Chris mentioned the large Homelite bars fit the twin and other large vintage Solo's pretty good. You might send him a message


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## blsnelling (Aug 24, 2017)

Thanks Mark.


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## heimannm (Aug 24, 2017)

I am not sure of the patterns, but bars that fit the older Homelite and McCulloch (large frame) saws will fit the Solo with minor modifications.







Mark


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## blsnelling (Aug 24, 2017)

Thanks Mark.



Do I hear an echo?


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## blsnelling (Aug 24, 2017)

BLING!!! Time for final assembly and glamour shots.


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## heimannm (Aug 24, 2017)

Do you happen to know if there are differences in the inner and outer spikes? Mine only has an inside one at this moment and judging from my photos the spikes appear to be a bit longer.




Maybe just the perspective in the photos.

Mark


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## blsnelling (Aug 24, 2017)

heimannm said:


> Do you happen to know if there are differences in the inner and outer spikes? Mine only has an inside one at this moment and judging from my photos the spikes appear to be a bit longer.
> 
> View attachment 598128
> 
> ...


I thought they were identical until I tried to bolt the outer one to the CC. With just a hair of trimming, I believe they would be swappable. The bolt pattern is the same.

Do you happen to know of a source for a few spare parts? I could use a fuel tank, one coil, the top handle mount, and buckle for the engine shroud.


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## jra1100 (Aug 24, 2017)

Congrats on getting that treasure going. Didn't know that you had been out of commission, hope it wasn't serious, and glad to hear that you can go all night without compromise.


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## Armbru84 (Aug 24, 2017)

Saw sounds and looks awesome Brad!!


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## blsnelling (Aug 24, 2017)

jra1100 said:


> Congrats on getting that treasure going. Didn't know that you had been out of commission, hope it wasn't serious, and glad to hear that you can go all night without compromise.


Nothing serious. They just took my colon out, lol


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## 3000 FPS (Aug 24, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> Please forgive my memory, but did you or 3000 FPS do the welding for me?



Srcarr52 did a great job on the welding. Congrats on the saw Brad it turned out beautiful.


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## blsnelling (Aug 24, 2017)

Glamour Shots!


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## glock37 (Aug 24, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> Glamour Shots!



Wow awesome !!!![emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


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## El Moobs (Aug 25, 2017)

Is that handle 3/4" ?

I'd gladly install new hose if so.


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## bulletpruf (Aug 25, 2017)

leeha said:


> Nice job Brad. Thinking I had that saw in my possession for a bit. She sounds great
> and now gives me a little inspiration to get mine up and running.
> 
> Hope your feeling better.
> ...



Same here, Lee. Mine is said to be a runner, but haven't even tried to crank her up yet. Too many other saws in the queue ahead of it.

Scott


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## Jimmy in NC (Aug 25, 2017)

Congrats Brad. Looks and sounds great. Glad to see you are up and feeling like doing a few things.


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## blsnelling (Aug 25, 2017)

El Moobs said:


> Is that handle 3/4" ?
> 
> I'd gladly install new hose if so.


That's a HORRIBLE job, lol. I'll have to measure it.


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## LegDeLimber (Aug 26, 2017)

Compressed air and a bit of slobber, along with very careful padding & gripping in the bench vise, should get that hose on.
= =
I have question/curiosity about powder coating.
Can you use a glazing or spot putty on a saw case, without it interfering with the powder coating?
I would mean used in a very judicious fashion. Just to fill the little pitted voids and then carefully, lightly sand away anything around the pits.
In other words, would those small spots cause problems with the way the powder covers things?

I'm kind of figuring it would, unless you somehow had a conductive putty.
Then what about the curing temperature for the powder?
Would the putty possibly outgas and cause bubbles?
Would thermal conduction through the workpiece vs the putty be a problem?

These are just a few thoughts that I could peck out before loosing the rest of the imagined , er um pit-falls.


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## glock37 (Aug 26, 2017)

epo strong on metal parts is whats used to fill in its heat activated yes its conductive it takes up too 3 to 4 coats to get the surface right ,sand then powder 

yes powder does not fill in pits 

400 degrees for 10 -15 min once the part gets to temp then remove and cool 

we use 2 ovens one 10 x 10 x 16 and 8 x 8 x 24 thats feet


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## El Moobs (Aug 26, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> That's a HORRIBLE job, lol. I'll have to measure it.



After installing a couple of 10' rolls, I'm fairly good at it.


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## jra1100 (Aug 26, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> Nothing serious. They just took my colon out, lol


Oh wow, must be a post on that, glad your better. You have the most interesting posts, but this is well, wow. JR


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## blsnelling (Aug 26, 2017)

El Moobs said:


> After installing a couple of 10' rolls, I'm fairly good at it.


I APPRECIATE THE OFFER!


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## blsnelling (Sep 1, 2017)

I finally got motivated and have the 110cc Twin disassembled and cleaned up.

These are the parts headed out for welding repair. @srcarr52





These parts are headed to Mike to be powder coated. @Glock37





All clean parts.





The 110cc topend, in like new condition. @Definitive Dave



































New capacitors withe wires soldered on.





Time to repair the fuel tank.





Can someone tell me the rebuild kit PN for a Tillotson HL-185C? I don't see it listed.
http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/HL-Repair-Kits.pdf


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## DND 9000 (Sep 1, 2017)

Hi Brad

The HL-185 C carb takes the RK-10HL repair kit. See also my file attached.


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## heimannm (Sep 1, 2017)

I am pretty sure the 10-HL is an old number, RK-88 is the current number for the complete kit for the HL carburetors, DG-6 is gaskets & diaphragms only.

Mark


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## LowVolt (Sep 1, 2017)

Twin Solo Twins?


DAAYYYHHEMMMM!!!!!!


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## blsnelling (Sep 1, 2017)

LowVolt said:


> Twin Solo Twins?
> 
> 
> DAAYYYHHEMMMM!!!!!!


The 110cc Twin is the Holy Grail of the Holy Grail!!!


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## blsnelling (Sep 1, 2017)

heimannm said:


> I am pretty sure the 10-HL is an old number, RK-88 is the current number for the complete kit for the HL carburetors, DG-6 is gaskets & diaphragms only.
> 
> Mark


Excellent. Thank you!


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## heimannm (Sep 1, 2017)

Someone needs to organize a GTG in IN/OH so we can get at least 4 twins in one location. If we wind them all up at the same time maybe we can shake the New Madrid fault loose again.

We had three runners and two participate in the demonstration in Baraboo, WI two weeks ago.

Mark


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## blsnelling (Sep 1, 2017)

I broke the impulse nipple off when assembling the first Twin, so stole the one from the 110. Today I attempted to make a couple replacements. The steel one was made from a bolt and the brass one for a double ended brass hose barb. The original was brass. I'll assemble with red Loctite for a positive seal.

All new screws/bolts were ordered today...cheese heads.


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## blsnelling (Sep 1, 2017)

I made an attempt at repairing my coil. I'm still holding out for a replacement.






Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics in progress. I stripped the plastic away from the wire and solder new wire to it. I then built up around it with JBWeld. Not pretty, but...


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## El Moobs (Sep 8, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> I made an attempt at repairing my coil. I'm still holding out for a replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Any updates?


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## blsnelling (Sep 8, 2017)

El Moobs said:


> Any updates?


I sure do!

A bit of progress was made today. Randy put new rubber grips on both handles for me. Thank you Randy! I did one several years ask and that was no fun. I appreciate the help!

Meanwhile, the rest of the parts are being welded and/or powder coated. A few parts are even headed this way from the UK!

I appreciate all the help!!!


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2021)

Finally, 6 years after this saga began, I have two almost complete Solo Twins. This last one is the 110cc version. I've had the parts back from Mike for years and just never got around to putting it together. All that I need to have both running is to either repair or replace the fuel tank. I've not yet finished the black and silver part of the logo either.


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## leeha (May 5, 2021)

Nice work Brad, Sometimes these projects take time and life gets in the way. I have my Solo Twin
and i haven't even touch it. This will give me some inspiration. I like the work bench.

What did you use for the handle bar covering. Looks nice.


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## Andyshine77 (May 5, 2021)

What a beauty!!


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2021)




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## drf255 (May 6, 2021)

Very nice Brad!


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## lone wolf (May 6, 2021)

blsnelling said:


>



Hey man I am liking what I see there you do the best work.


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## jordanmills555 (Aug 20, 2021)

Rather than start a new thread, can someone give me a ball park price for a running solo Twin? Had a repair on the handle. I believe i may have under quoted after some reading. I do not want to start a bidding war. Thanks





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## av8or3 (Aug 20, 2021)

jordanmills555 said:


> Rather than start a new thread, can someone give me a ball park price for a running solo Twin? Had a repair on the handle. I believe i may have under quoted after some reading. I do not want to start a bidding war. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It’s whatever the market will bear. I’ve paid as much as $2600 for the right saw. Paid $1500 recently for a 110cc. The best thing going for the one in the photo is that it appears to be in “original condition “. But having said that if the gas tank don’t leak I’d maybe go $1000 if all the parts were there.


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## av8or3 (Aug 20, 2021)

_I’m not familiar with that style of handle bar either. Looks to be a crafty aftermarket handle. _


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## jordanmills555 (Aug 20, 2021)

Yeah its definitely had a repair in its life.
Thankyou the above information helps

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## heimannm (Aug 20, 2021)

I will second the motion, $1000 to $1200 US for a running Solo Twin would be a reasonable retail price.

Mark


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## pelhamjeff (Aug 21, 2021)

Man I never even heard of a Solo Twin. Looks like a very cool old saw. Congrats!


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## heimannm (Aug 23, 2021)

Thanks av8or for the dual spikes.







Mark


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## grizz55chev (Aug 23, 2021)

heimannm said:


> Thanks av8or for the dual spikes.
> 
> View attachment 925751
> 
> ...


Nice clean original saw!


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## RedneckChainsawRepair (Aug 23, 2021)

Friends 100cc 110cc


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## heimannm (Aug 23, 2021)

I did manage to clean it up but it was in pretty bad shape when I got it. 




After cleaning up all the corrosion there were actually hole all the way through the crankcase. JB Weld to the rescue.




The paint is completely gone on the flywheel cover but the magnesium oxide has such a nice patina I don't want to ruin it with paint.




No more derail for now.

Mark


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## K-techcowboy (Nov 26, 2021)

glock37 said:


> The red powder looks awesome pics dont do it justice
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How'd you find one. I cant


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## bulletpruf (Nov 26, 2021)

K-techcowboy said:


> How'd you find one. I cant



Much easier to find in Europe. Can be found in Australia, too, but shipping to/from Oz is really expensive these days.


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## K-techcowboy (Nov 26, 2021)

bulletpruf said:


> Much easier to find in Europe. Can be found in Australia, too, but shipping to/from Oz is really expensive these days.


Yeah id imagine so


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## K-techcowboy (Nov 26, 2021)

K-techcowboy said:


> Yeah id imagine so





bulletpruf said:


> Much easier to find in Europe. Can be found in Australia, too, but shipping to/from Oz is really expensive these days.


What do u think about a cs3510 and cs590 for $525 both brand new


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## Evan (Nov 26, 2021)

How many names is brad Posting under. Seems sneaky


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