# Annoying Husqvarna fuel tank vents!



## rob066 (Feb 22, 2012)

First it was my 385 leaking out the fuel tank vent. I replaced the white tube part tha goes into the tank. The new one didnt fit tight and still leaked. So I put 2 small Orings on the tube and put it back into the tank. No more leaks. But It went from one saw to another. Now my 346 NE is leaking out the tank vent. My stihls havent ever leaked out the tank vent. But my older 066s have leaked from the fuel cap. Never mind me I just venting.


----------



## minuteman tree (Feb 22, 2012)

I have a 272xp that I rebuilt. I wanted to change the vent, but I can't get it out. It's threaded and turns, but won't come out.


----------



## Homelite410 (Feb 22, 2012)

minuteman tree said:


> I have a 272xp that I rebuilt. I wanted to change the vent, but I can't get it out. It's threaded and turns, but won't come out.



Not to hijack the thread here but what all did you do to your 272?


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 22, 2012)

My 346XP leaks. I need to revisit that again.


----------



## ncfarmboy (Feb 22, 2012)

minuteman tree said:


> I have a 272xp that I rebuilt. I wanted to change the vent, but I can't get it out. It's threaded and turns, but won't come out.



Push on vent from inside tank and turn ouside. It may push out try that first. I use long bent needle nose pliers to push em out. Same on a 50-51-55-254-257-261-262 and all that use the long black tube vent. You can replace the guts don't have to buy the whole vent.
Shep


----------



## half_full (Feb 22, 2012)

I had three leakers. pulled out one and replaced with new one. Still leaked. Pulled it again and put a very small amount of silicone around the area that it seats. No more leak. Did my others the same way. 
I like the o-ring idea better. Probably easier to remove if needed


----------



## rob066 (Feb 22, 2012)

half_full said:


> I had three leakers. pulled out one and replaced with new one. Still leaked. Pulled it again and put a very small amount of silicone around the area that it seats. No more leak. Did my others the same way.
> I like the o-ring idea better. Probably easier to remove if needed



I dont know what saw you have. But on my 385 I put the Orings on the very last step headed towards the fuel tank. The o rings fit into the bore with a slight press fit. I greased them up good. The problem with most silicone is that it is not gas resistant for long. To help I put them on the long skinny part of the tube. If you put three the tube hangs out to far.


----------



## minuteman tree (Feb 22, 2012)

Thanks ncfarmboy. I'll give it a shot.


----------



## Mikehemi (Nov 18, 2017)

I have a husky 55 rancher that's leaking from the fuel tank vent. Any idea on how to pull it out to replace?? Thanks.


----------



## Westboastfaller (Nov 18, 2017)

Welcome to the site.
Yeah Mike,
You can google 55 Rancher images and see what you are up against.
That one seems to have a long black tube. One on the page has a thread but I see it has a slot. I have just taken out the little white pill style but I'm sure it's the same. Poke the stones out by pushing to one side. 

Then you should be able to use a pick and pick it out. 
I don't like tank vents so I've had the hole epoxied and redrilled through the floor plate of the air box and into the top of tank and used a vent for the air box to vent.

Others work on this stuff all the time and could help better I'm sure.

Good luck


----------



## ncfarmboy (Nov 18, 2017)

See post #5 55 vent pushes out from inside tank. Blow the old white pill w/air hose from opposite side. Install new pill, push it back in with round pin that fits the hole.
good to go.
Shep


----------



## raoul morejohn (Nov 18, 2017)

I have used a sheet rock screw brazed to an old screwdriver. Just screw in yank out. You can use just a screw and a pair of pliers... install new vent or pill...


----------



## Westboastfaller (Nov 19, 2017)

Right, I heard Brad say that some months ago and I couldn't think what it was. I've never had a problem picking them out but that's a good one.
I've had some even fall out on their own.


----------



## pioneerguy600 (Nov 19, 2017)

Westboastfaller said:


> Right, I heard Brad say that some months ago and I couldn't think what it was. I've never had a problem picking them out but that's a good one.
> I've had some even fall out on their own.



Say it aint so!! Parts just fallen off a Husky, blasphemy!!...


----------



## Westboastfaller (Nov 19, 2017)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Say it aint so!! Parts just fallen off a Husky, blasphemy!!...


Haha.
Only if you say it like it's a bad thing.
Improvements have been made this way. A good Watchmaker always has parts leftover.
I never once showed up for warranty work and question.
That would be a sign of doubt
They make the engines screem and hold up and I do the rest.
That's the unwritten deal we have.


----------



## pioneerguy600 (Nov 19, 2017)

Its all good, if we didn`t have different brands to compare there would only be one good saw. Wait a minute, there is only one good saw.....LOL


----------



## Castanet (Oct 14, 2018)

Somebody suggested the pills might be available separately? The part # 501 87 31-01 is all I see for combined assy (old 254). Or is there a stick of generic porous material available we can just cut a slice from? It doesn't seem to flow very fast by mouth. Almost a complete vacuum. I know it's only a few cc but I tried to imagine the full power rate and I'd expect it to let more air in than that. The bore of the small end of the tube also suggests greater design capacity. Looks like stihl use headless screws in a tube to provide a capillary around the thread helix. It must be a juggle to prevent fuel leakage when slopping about in the back of the truck.
My old 254 is just a very light push fit and it almost fell out. So it looks like maybe leaking from tank-to-tube join with tank > 1/2 full. Can't seem to find a suitable O-ring in my tray for the second stage diameter that's slender enough to squeeze in there. Perhaps I'll try blue hylomar.


----------



## Castanet (Oct 14, 2018)

Somebody suggested the pills might be available separately? The part # 501 87 31-01 is all I see for combined assy (old 254). Or is there a stick of generic porous material available we can just cut a slice from? It doesn't seem to flow very fast by mouth. Almost a complete vacuum. I know it's only a few cc but I tried to imagine the full power rate and I'd expect it to let more air in than that. The bore of the small end of the tube also suggests greater design capacity. Looks like stihl use headless screws in a tube to provide a capillary around the thread helix. It must be a juggle to prevent fuel leakage when slopping about in the back of the truck.
My old 254 is just a very light push fit and it almost fell out. So it looks like maybe leaking from tank-to-tube join with tank > 1/2 full. Can't seem to find a suitable O-ring in my tray for the second stage diameter that's slender enough to squeeze in there. Perhaps I'll try blue hylomar.


----------



## Sawinthesuburbs (Jun 4, 2021)

rob066 said:


> First it was my 385 leaking out the fuel tank vent. I replaced the white tube part tha goes into the tank. The new one didnt fit tight and still leaked. So I put 2 small Orings on the tube and put it back into the tank. No more leaks. But It went from one saw to another. Now my 346 NE is leaking out the tank vent. My stihls havent ever leaked out the tank vent. But my older 066s have leaked from the fuel cap. Never mind me I just venting.


9 years later and this forum post saves massive headaches on the 385 I resurrected 

Thanks.


----------



## Renegade32 (Jun 30, 2021)

I just order a new tank vent/breather for my 350. The old one just went AWOL….
Hopefully it just a simple press it installation?


----------

