# Cutting consistent firewood lengths



## Joe Kidd (Aug 11, 2012)

For those who are anal about cutting consistent lengths of firewood like myself, what method gives you the most speed? BTW I typically cut everything 16"
I cut a few cords to sell, and my thinking is "take it or leave it".


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 11, 2012)

I've tried all the methods over the years, mark the log before beginning cuttin, flip/flop saw and eyeball on the bar, carry a marking stick to guage each cut (that's my current method), cut-off guage on the saw. None of them will give you a 'perfect' 16" IME. I am satisfied to hold the lengths +/- 1" althoughI usually come closer than that.

Harry K


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## Mac88 (Aug 11, 2012)

Joe Kidd said:


> For those who are anal about cutting consistent lengths of firewood like myself, what method gives you the most speed? BTW I typically cut everything 16"
> I cut a few cords to sell, and my thinking is "take it or leave it".



My bucking saw has an 18" bar. I use that as a quick gauge and just back off a couple inches for a 16" cut. 
You could always paint a 16" stripe on your bar. I usually run down the log and put a shallow cut every 16"
then go back and buck it up.


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## T. Mainus (Aug 11, 2012)

Bailey's - The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker


I don't go out in the woods without mine anymore. Cutting mostly crowns, it is very easy to mark out a bunch and then have at it.

Tom


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## Laroo (Aug 11, 2012)

Spencer logging tape and lumber crayon, everybody gives me a hard time, but it all fits in the stove, and the woodbox, not to mention it stacks better when everything is the same length.


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## Swamp Yankee (Aug 11, 2012)

Practice

Years of practice cutting 25 to 50+ cord per year. Once your eye is trained you're good to go regardless of what saw and bar length you're using. 

I always say if you're selling CSD, miss to the short side. If you miss 1/4 inch long and the customer can't get his stove door closed on one piece you'll never hear the end of how you sold them X number of cords of wood all cut too long. If the customer requires a specific maximum length use a Sharpie and a straight edge to mark a line on the splitter beam 1/4 inch shy of that length. When placing the round on the splitter if it extends past the mark set it aside. When you can't see the line anymore just redo with the Sharpie.

Take Care


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## ShaneLogs (Aug 11, 2012)

Yes, If you are good at you don't need a tape or anything. I usually try to cut mine around 16". The little ends get stacked in the pile for the firepit.


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## Laroo (Aug 11, 2012)

I got in the habit of measuring and marking all of my cuts years ago while cutting logs for cellar timbers, ( timbers for the construction of potato cellars) they had to be a min 30' six inches short and that $150.00 log became blocks in a load of $45.00 a cord firewood. It was a mistake I only made once! I suppose old habits die hard.


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## J1m (Aug 12, 2012)

Measure from the end of your bar toward the power head to your 16" (or whatever length you need). Take the trusty $.99 Sharpie out of your junk drawer and mark the bar (or side case of the saw, whichever is appropriate). 

If you're cutting from the left side of the log, with the tip of the bar at the end of the log - swing the saw 1/4 turn and your cut is directly under the aforementioned Sharpie mark....If you're cutting from the right side of the log, swing your saw 1/4 turn with the Sharpie mark at the end of the log - your cut is directly at the end of your bar.

Guys that absolutely, positively MUST have a mark ON the log...Well, this method probably isn't for them...But in my experience you can always find a sawdust chip, piece of moss or other bark imperfection to use as your "mark". 35ish cords using this method last year and the Sharpie marks are still on my saws...And all of my wood is the same length!


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## BarkBuster20 (Aug 12, 2012)

you can eyeball firewood well if you are cutting wood that is all close in diameter. If you go from eyeballing 10" stuff to 30" wood, your probly gonna mess up. i usually use my bar, or chalk or a fat crayon to mark it all off. I try to not cut anything smaller then 14" in dia just because i dont wanna take too much time measuring and cutting, i prefer the big rounds. when you look at how much wood you get off a 20" round, its definitely worth measuring. i like nice stacks.


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## Streblerm (Aug 12, 2012)

I only cut wood for myself so I don't worry about it too much, especially on the smaller stuff. As long as it fits in the stove it's good for me. On the 20"+ diameter stuff I will sometimes measure and mark. I carry an old tape measure and a can of marking paint in my firewood hauler.


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## BarkBuster20 (Aug 12, 2012)

Streblerm said:


> I only cut wood for myself so I don't worry about it too much, especially on the smaller stuff. As long as it fits in the stove it's good for me. On the 20"+ diameter stuff I will sometimes measure and mark. I carry an old tape measure and a can of marking paint in my firewood hauler.



Yeah...but think of how much prettier your stacks could be...sometimes after i add a row onto my stack ill just sit there, and stare, and fondle my saw...and drink a beer.


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## stihl023/5 (Aug 12, 2012)

I bought a round flat magnet with a hole in the center then cut a damaged aluminum arrow to 16" and screwed it on using the tip of the arrow. Simply stick it on the bar and nick the log to mark lengths drop it off and cut away. Just be carefull around loose bark. Cheap and works great


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## Whitespider (Aug 12, 2012)

Ummmm.......
Well, here's 6 pages on that subject.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/192347.htm


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## BarkBuster20 (Aug 12, 2012)

Whitespider said:


> Ummmm.......
> Well, here's 6 pages on that subject.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/192347.htm


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## Mac88 (Aug 12, 2012)

It seems like some folks make this a lot more complicated and time consuming than it needs to be.
Whatever floats yer boat, I suppose, but I'm all about quick and dirty. Yea, I have some crooked stacks
and my splits aren't all nice and consistent size, but they all heat the house, and that's what works for me.
If it's not rotten, or treated with something nasty, it goes in the stove.


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## Coldfront (Aug 12, 2012)

I don't sell wood but if my stove max log length is 18" I cut by eye to 16" that gives me a 2" margin of error. I very rarely go over 18" it is amazing how good you get at eyeballing 16" + or - a 1/2". On the rare occasion I go over 18" I just put the piece in diagonally.


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## stihly dan (Aug 12, 2012)

Mac88 said:


> It seems like some folks make this a lot more complicated and time consuming than it needs to be.
> Whatever floats yer boat, I suppose, but I'm all about quick and dirty. Yea, I have some crooked stacks
> and my splits aren't all nice and consistent size, but they all heat the house, and that's what works for me.
> If it's not rotten, or treated with something nasty, it goes in the stove.



I'm surprised you haven't had an issue with your stacks, being years ahead as you are. I have done the eyeball route, and it seems after 2 yrs the stacks really want to fall. Now that there all the same size, the stacks are nice and solid. No space for the wood to shift. My stacks are typically 5'w 6'h 8'-25'L


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## Coldfront (Aug 12, 2012)

What does having them all the exact same length have to do with no space for the wood to shift? My stacks start to lean do to not having a solid ground foundation and settling. Nothing to do with length. If I catch them leaning I straighten them out by tapping the ends with a maul, works good.


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## Zeus103363 (Aug 12, 2012)

I use and old golf club shaft for measuring my firewood length. 21" is what I cut. My insert will take up to 24", but just I case my dad needs some wood I cut to the same length he uses. There is a black tape ring on the shaft, and a can of spray paint to mark the wood. Aside from marking the wood length, I have had to press the golf club into service on more than one occasion to take care of a snake too! Has served my needs for probably 10 years. My dad cut the shaft off just a little so it fits inside the rack on the atv. It usually goes on atv rides too. I usually take it with me on those early scouting missions to the deer woods too. Great walking stick! If I loose it I will have to have another!


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## Mac88 (Aug 12, 2012)

stihly dan said:


> I'm surprised you haven't had an issue with your stacks, being years ahead as you are. I have done the eyeball route, and it seems after 2 yrs the stacks really want to fall. Now that there all the same size, the stacks are nice and solid. No space for the wood to shift. My stacks are typically 5'w 6'h 8'-25'L



Nope, no problem. Since we put our stuff on skids, I usually get 2 rows and a gap in between, which I 
fill with the uglies that don't stack well. I keep the rows level when I build them, even though the splits
are different sized. Most everything is 16" +/- an inch or so. Sometimes I have "shorts" and just stack
them end to end, mixed in with the full length stuff. I square both rows on the open end. They're not
the pretties thing to look at, bit I've never had one fall.


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## REJ2 (Aug 12, 2012)

If theres any advantage to a 1978 home with a masonry and steel fireplace is the fact i can use splits up to 35" sideways. Now i dont cut them that long, 18" nominal, but i can be off 2,4, or 12, inches and it still fits. A blind man could wood for me! Of course with my minimal efficiency fireplace, i need a lot of wood.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 12, 2012)

Coldfront said:


> What does having them all the exact same length have to do with no space for the wood to shift? My stacks start to lean do to not having a solid ground foundation and settling. Nothing to do with length. If I catch them leaning I straighten them out by tapping the ends with a maul, works good.



Yep, firewood stacks _never_ quite settling and shifting. I have stacks going back over 8 years. I learned long ago to forget about nice straight stacks if you are stockpiling. I start a rick agains a building, fence or some and then make all subsequent ricks lean in against the previous. Yes, I have had stacks blow the ends out after years of being stable. Got one area ready to fall on the end now, cut and stacked that about 2005.

Harry K


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## Fred Wright (Aug 12, 2012)

We've never been good at eyeballing while bucking. For us older guys, bifocals can make eyeballing a cut a bit challenging. 

I just lay the guide bar on the log, bring the saw back where the sprocket nose touches and start cutting. It's not a precise measurement but it makes the rounds consistent in length.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 13, 2012)

Fred Wright said:


> We've never been good at eyeballing while bucking. For us older guys, bifocals can make eyeballing a cut a bit challenging.
> 
> I just lay the guide bar on the log, bring the saw back where the sprocket nose touches and start cutting. It's not a precise measurement but it makes the rounds consistent in length.



I've never been able to eyeball. Small stuff (limbs) I cut long, big stuff I cut short. Eyeball to cut a round from a 20" log it willprobably come out about 12" 

Harry K


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## rottiman (Aug 13, 2012)

If your cutting wood 10" or less in diameter, i.e. tops, this rig cuts at 16" EVERYTIME. Have cut about 60 cord with it. Quick and easy, especially when you have a 2nd guy feeding it.


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## PA. Woodsman (Aug 13, 2012)

I have a piece of round aluminum tube that I cut with a hacksaw to 18" that I keep in my saw case; I put one end of it up to the log and eyeball the other end, stare at that spot as I place the tube either between my knees or lay it somewhere and cut. It works pretty well for me and is pretty consistent.


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## Whitespider (Aug 13, 2012)

PA. Woodsman said:


> *I have a piece of round aluminum tube that I cut with a hacksaw to 18"...*



Hmmmmm.........
Guess I'll never quite get the "another piece of gear" thing if you're not actually marking the log, just using a visual reference point, and you already have the saw in your hands. I mean something, or some reference mark on the saw has to measure 18-inches, or close enough... bar tip to bucking spike, bar tip to case, bar tip to bar stud, back of the rear handle to front of the case, something??? Heck, just make a reference mark somewhere on the saw or bar if ya' haf'ta... why take your hand off the saw, then grab another tool, then move that tool, then re-grab the saw?
Just seems like a lot of wasted motion and time to me.
But that's just me...

I've always cut to 16 inches and used a reference point on the saw for as long as I can remember...
I had a little Poulan top handle one time that I put a 10 inch bar on, from the tip of the bar to the muffler cover/heat shield measured 15 3/4 inch... close enough, I can allow for the 1/4 inch.
I had couple different 024's with 18 inch bars, from the tip of the bar to the tip of the bucking spike measured 16 1/4 inches... close enough.
A Mac I had measured close enough to 16 inches from the tip of the bar to a casting flaw on the clutch cover.
The 038 wore a 20 inch bar, I painted two marks on it, one 16 inches from the tip, and the other 16 inches from the case... that way I could use it working left to right, or right to left.
Etc., etc., etc.


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## Chris-PA (Aug 13, 2012)

I'm cutting for myself and I don't much care unless it gets over21". I load the bottom end on, which is the longest dimension, and slightly shorter splits go crosswise on the top row. Then we got a smaller stove so now I have something to do with all those small bits. It's all good and I don't have to pay much attention other than to sort a bit. 

Last summer I was dropping ash trees and for some reason my judgement was off. They all came out at 22" to 24" - what a pain that was! I have not forgotten that.


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## Nosmo (Aug 13, 2012)

*Answering Joe Kidd's Question*



Joe Kidd said:


> For those who are anal about cutting consistent lengths of firewood like myself, what method gives you the most speed? BTW I typically cut everything 16"
> I cut a few cords to sell, and my thinking is "take it or leave it".



Joe wanted to know how we who measure our cuts do it. So I'll give him my method which works just fine for me.

After felling a tree and trimming the brush I begin marking my cuts on the limbs beginning at the trunk outward as far as I want to cut up the limb.

I square cut the trunk to get rid of the notch and measure upwards and mark with chalk until I reach a fork. I measure and mark outward from the fork to the end of a limb. 

I start my cuts on the ends of the limbs working back to the trunk. After all the limbs are off I cut up the trunk.

Load 'em up and go home.

Nosmo

Cut 'em up , load 'em up and take 'em home.

Nosmo


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## Sandhill Crane (Aug 13, 2012)

I got an eye like a dead fish! So when I'm in the woods, I mark it out if it is over 6" dia. Lumber crayon, paint, Mingo marker, what ever.


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## turnkey4099 (Aug 13, 2012)

PA. Woodsman said:


> I have a piece of round aluminum tube that I cut with a hacksaw to 18" that I keep in my saw case; I put one end of it up to the log and eyeball the other end, stare at that spot as I place the tube either between my knees or lay it somewhere and cut. It works pretty well for me and is pretty consistent.



I carry a 16" length of (3/8" or 1/4") white PVC pipe (the stuff used forunder sinks, etc as risers off the valves) Just right to carry in my left hand and still hold the saw properly. That is my latest attempt a finding a good solution between quick, easy, accurate. Never been satisfied with any of them.

Harry K


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## George G (Aug 13, 2012)

This is what I use. 16" long, lay it on log,hit head with hammer, move it up to mark hit head with hammer and so on. It makes a mark about the width of the chainsaw chain.
View attachment 248469


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## blacklocst (Aug 13, 2012)

I use my bar scabbard which I have with the saw and a lumber crayon, red seems to work the best. I just go down the tree make my marks and then cut, not into making 90 degree turns with a running saw in this heat.


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## Eric Modell (Aug 14, 2012)

When I used to be anal I used a tape measure and splitting maul. Now I just cut.


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## PA. Woodsman (Aug 15, 2012)

Whitespider said:


> Hmmmmm.........
> Guess I'll never quite get the "another piece of gear" thing if you're not actually marking the log, just using a visual reference point, and you already have the saw in your hands. I mean something, or some reference mark on the saw has to measure 18-inches, or close enough... bar tip to bucking spike, bar tip to case, bar tip to bar stud, back of the rear handle to front of the case, something??? Heck, just make a reference mark somewhere on the saw or bar if ya' haf'ta... why take your hand off the saw, then grab another tool, then move that tool, then re-grab the saw?
> Just seems like a lot of wasted motion and time to me.
> But that's just me...



It really is easy and doesn't take more than a few seconds to do; basically just keep the pipe between my knees, put it up with the left hand, eyeball it, put the pipe back and cut-repeat steps 1 thru 5 repeatedly until finished. I see in post # 33 that Harry Turnkey does something similiar with PVC pipe.

I guess great minds think alike, Harry....but then so do idiots, serial killers, lunatics, etc..!


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