# Longer straight edges for an Alaskan



## chrispy6822 (Mar 26, 2008)

Currently I use a 18' section of AL ladder for a straight edge with the Alaskan mill. Was all excited as this spring I am cutting some nice timber into 24' long beams. Of course my excitement was dashed as I realized I have no idea what to use to get a 24' straight edge.

A simple solution is out there or sure, but figured I would ask what others have come up with?

Any ideas?


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## AKRover (Mar 26, 2008)

Why not just cut to the end of the ladder, slide the ladder down the tree, re-level, and continue cutting?


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## chrispy6822 (Mar 26, 2008)

AKRover said:


> Why not just cut to the end of the ladder, slide the ladder down the tree, re-level, and continue cutting?




I was thinking that but was concerned about the accuracy of re leveling it. I am thinking it would not take much to be off over 24'.

If I could figure it out I could use both halves of the ladder butted together and use a string line to keep them both on the same plane. ??? Maybe.


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## AKRover (Mar 26, 2008)

I think I saw a video on the Granberg site of a guy using their rail system and if I remember right he cut to the end and then slid the system ahead of him and continued on. I guess you would have to trust your level.


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## BobL (Mar 26, 2008)

You should be OK sliding the ladder down the trunk if you work to a level or your trunk is highly cylindrical. However, if the trunk has a bend or an irregular surface sliding will not produce a straight slab. Another problem to take into account will be on the first cut if the trunk thickens in the remaining 6ft - so just make sure your height of ladder above the trunk is clear to slide down the remaining part. If you set up so you are clear to slide, one possibility is to insert some 1/4" metal strap through the fresh kerf on the previous 18 ft and strap or even clamp the ladder to the metal straps. That will allow you to reference the ladder to the existing kerf. 






You will of course need to tie the slab to the trunk at some point or it may tip.


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## dustytools (Mar 26, 2008)

I believe that somewhere on Granbergs website they show you how to use a string-line to set a series of lag bolts down your log so that you can slide your starter board or ladder down the log as needed and keep it in a consistent plane. I think that CaseyForrest posted some pics of this at one time. Hope this helps.


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## Gumnuts (Mar 26, 2008)

chrispy6822 said:


> Currently I use a 18' section of AL ladder for a straight edge with the Alaskan mill. Was all excited as this spring I am cutting some nice timber into 24' long beams. Of course my excitement was dashed as I realized I have no idea what to use to get a 24' straight edge.
> 
> A simple solution is out there or sure, but figured I would ask what others have come up with?
> 
> Any ideas?



Mark out cross on but end.Tack a string line- tight.Bounce it.Marry the other end with another( lined up) cross.Should help you keep on track when you move ladder.


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## Gumnuts (Mar 26, 2008)

dustytools said:


> I believe that somewhere on Granbergs website they show you how to use a string-line to set a series of lag bolts down your log so that you can slide your starter board or ladder down the log as needed and keep it in a consistent plane. I think that CaseyForrest posted some pics of this at one time. Hope this helps.



G'day DT,
Posted before i saw yrs come through.


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## dustytools (Mar 26, 2008)

http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=608598&highlight=milling#post608598 No pictures but he does explain it a little better than I do.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Mar 27, 2008)

I use a pair of 24' aluminum carport beams. Light and stiff.


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## chrispy6822 (Mar 27, 2008)

Thanks all.

I do remember as someone suggested the lag bolts and string. Be darned if I can find it on Granbergs website. It might of been in the manual which I will have to find. 

I guess the key here is not level, but a straight continues line. 

Lag bolts might be the way to go but I imagine I will have to have a plate lay onto the lag bolts from side to side or else I would never be able to set the ladder onto the lag bolts.


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## chrispy6822 (Mar 27, 2008)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I use a pair of 24' aluminum carport beams. Light and stiff.




No car ports in my area to steal..... I mean borrow them from.


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## dustytools (Mar 27, 2008)

chrispy6822 said:


> Thanks all.
> 
> I do remember as someone suggested the lag bolts and string. Be darned if I can find it on Granbergs website. It might of been in the manual which I will have to find.
> 
> ...



I might be mistaken about it being on Granbergs site, As Casey said that he saw it in Maloffs book.


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## chrispy6822 (Mar 27, 2008)

dustytools said:


> I might be mistaken about it being on Granbergs site, As Casey said that he saw it in Maloffs book.




After you mentioned it I remember seeing it somewhere a while back. I still have the directions from Granberg and I will check to see if it is in there. 

No harm if I do not find it as I have the general idea in my head.


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## olyman (Mar 27, 2008)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> I use a pair of 24' aluminum carport beams. Light and stiff.


??????????????????????? never heard of or seen---pics??? thanks


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## Rodney Sinclair (Mar 28, 2008)

chrispy6822 said:


> After you mentioned it I remember seeing it somewhere a while back. I still have the directions from Granberg and I will check to see if it is in there.
> 
> No harm if I do not find it as I have the general idea in my head.



It's in the instr book. You can download it from the HF site. Hope this helps. 

Rodney


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Mar 30, 2008)

chrispy6822 said:


> No car ports in my area to steal..... I mean borrow them from.





I got the one's I'm using from a carport we took down at my house when I was 12 or 13. All the pieces sat in a stack at my Grandpa's place untouched for 17 years.


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Mar 30, 2008)

olyman said:


> ??????????????????????? never heard of or seen---pics??? thanks








Here they are in use.


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## Gumnuts (Mar 30, 2008)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Here they are in use.



Have been using the string line Aggy.Did look at some new gal ones awhile ago.
They wanted $150 a piece.After seeing yours I think I'll put the feelers out
with Demolition yards an scrap metal dealers for AL.......


- Graeme


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## chrispy6822 (Mar 31, 2008)

aggiewoodbutchr said:


> Here they are in use.



Really nice setup there. Not having any experience with lightweight beams I imagine that is a light setup. What does it weigh about? How long?


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## treeclimber jul (Mar 31, 2008)

I think Northern Tools has a set of guides called "EZ RAIL MILL GUIDE SYSTEM" 9' and 5' And a connecter kit to connect a bunch togather. It is desined to be used with the Alaskan mill.

Hope this helps


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## aggiewoodbutchr (Mar 31, 2008)

chrispy6822 said:


> Really nice setup there. Not having any experience with lightweight beams I imagine that is a light setup. What does it weigh about? How long?



This one is 20' and I'd guess the weight to be 40-50 lbs. It could be a bit more but it doesn't feel like it.


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## stevethekiwi (Apr 2, 2008)

go and buy a laser level. nail a board at each end of the log and mark it where the laser dot is, when the level is placed on the rail. when you move your rail (what ever it is) re attach the board at the starting end of the log and find your level again once you have moved the rails forward.

hey presto

works for me anyway, and im using 2 x 3120's and a 84" bar  with only 10' of rail.

woo hoo!!! milling rocks


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