# What bar & chain should I get for a MS362?



## jay156 (Nov 15, 2011)

Hey, I know this is small time compared to some of your guys' mills, but I have an Alaskan MK3 and I'd like to get a longer bar for my chainsaw so I can mill this one big log I have without having to turn it. 

I'm still learning about chainsaws though. I have a Stihl MS362 and would like to get a 24" or 25" bar with chain combo. I saw this one: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=PMC 24 MC50 but it doesn't list Stihl as a compatible brand. Will it work? It mentions the "mount" is a "D176." Is that what a Stihl uses?


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## gemniii (Nov 16, 2011)

jay156 said:


> Hey, I know this is small time compared to some of your guys' mills, but I have an Alaskan MK3 and I'd like to get a longer bar for my chainsaw so I can mill this one big log I have without having to turn it.
> 
> I'm still learning about chainsaws though. I have a Stihl MS362 and would like to get a 24" or 25" bar with chain combo. I saw this one: Bailey's - 24" Oregon Power Match Bar and Chain Combo 3/8" Pitch but it doesn't list Stihl as a compatible brand. Will it work? It mentions the "mount" is a "D176." Is that what a Stihl uses?


I'd go ahead and get a 28" bar and a couple of Woodland Ripping chains. If you've muf modded the 362 to let it breath it should handle 28". Note the B&C you reference is not with a ripping chain.

What size is your MK3?
What type of wood do you want to cut?
A real HARD wood like dead, dried, oak will require more saw power than green pine.


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## jay156 (Nov 16, 2011)

gemniii said:


> I'd go ahead and get a 28" bar and a couple of Woodland Ripping chains. If you've muf modded the 362 to let it breath it should handle 28". Note the B&C you reference is not with a ripping chain.
> 
> What size is your MK3?
> What type of wood do you want to cut?
> A real HARD wood like dead, dried, oak will require more saw power than green pine.



Well my MK3 is only 24" so, a 28" bar wouldn't help me. I haven't done any modifications to the saw's engine, and don't really want to. 

So far I've only cut silver maple and am about to cut a bunch of emerald-ash-bored ash.

I started off with a ripping chain they sold me at the tractor dealership where I bought the saw, but recently replaced it with an ordinary crosscut chain and it cuts perfectly. I don't think I'll go back to the ripping chain. I never got the long ribbons of chips like some people report, just a lot of fine powder (finer than with the crosscut chain) so they may have sold me the wrong damn chain, and I didn't know any better. It didn't seem like the salesperson knew either, but he supposedly asked the Stihl rep.

I did find out on my own what bar I needed. It's the D025 mount for an MS362 for anyone who might have the same question.


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## mtngun (Nov 16, 2011)

jay156 said:


> Well my MK3 is only 24" so, a 28" bar wouldn't help me.


Actually, it would.

The mill clamps take up 6" of the bar, so to cut 24", you'll need at least a 30" bar.

I'm currently milling with a 24" bar and a MK3 modded to bolt onto the bar rather than clamp. It can only mill 19". If I were using the clamps, max width would only be 18" or less. 

How wide do you need to cut ? Add 6", and that's how long a bar you need.



> I started off with a ripping chain they sold me at the tractor dealership where I bought the saw, but recently replaced it with an ordinary crosscut chain and it cuts perfectly. I don't think I'll go back to the ripping chain. I never got the long ribbons of chips like some people report, just a lot of fine powder


No one on this forum is reporting long ribbons of chips with a CSM.

A sharp chain and proper raker angles are critical for a CSM. Ripping chain cuts smoother but not faster.


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## jay156 (Nov 16, 2011)

I could have sworn I saw somewhere that people said a ripping chain made long ribbons of chips. Not on this site I guess, but somewhere.

Anyway, I haven't measured the upper bars of the MK3, but I don't think they're long enough to accommodate a 28" bar. I mean, it could, if you took the nose shield off the end, but it wouldn't really help, because there will still only be so much space between the posts.

Anyway, the log I'm cutting is like 18" diameter. Too big for my 20" bar, as you said, without rotating it.


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## mtngun (Nov 16, 2011)

jay156 said:


> I could have sworn I saw somewhere that people said a ripping chain made long ribbons of chips.


You're thinking of what is often called "noodling," sawing parallel to the length of the log.



> Anyway, the log I'm cutting is like 18" diameter.


Then you need at least a 24" bar, and maybe a 25" or 28".

It is common practice to run a bar that is 6" longer than the MKIII. I.e., 42" bar on a 36" MKIII.


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## gemniii (Nov 16, 2011)

jay156 said:


> I could have sworn I saw somewhere that people said a ripping chain made long ribbons of chips. Not on this site I guess, but somewhere.
> 
> Anyway, I haven't measured the upper bars of the MK3, but I don't think they're long enough to accommodate a 28" bar. I mean, it could, if you took the nose shield off the end, but it wouldn't really help, because there will still only be so much space between the posts.
> 
> Anyway, the log I'm cutting is like 18" diameter. Too big for my 20" bar, as you said, without rotating it.



On the 24" MK3


> MK-III Mill with 24" rails maximum cut: 20"
> Minimum bar requirement to achieve maximum cut: 26"


And this may be if you take the dogs off.
I usually leave the dogs on. As you can see in my sig I've a variety of bars for my 660's.

You don't have to take the nose shield off if the bar is too long, you can just not stick it in quite so far.

And as far as modifying the saw, I was only talking about opening up the muffler a bit, and of course retuning. Stihls are notorious for benefitting with a mild muff mod.

One other thing is be sure you are getting enough oil to the bar. Stihl has spent a lot of effort to minimize oil use and when milling I like to see a little oil spray on the nose guard. My JD CS 62 with a 28" bar and ripping chain would wet the nose guard, my 660's w/28" bar left it dry even when turned to max oil output. Luckily the 660's have an alternate oil pump which puts out more oil. I upgraded both of mine, and for my 42" bar I really need to add an auxillary oiler.


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## FISH BAIT (Nov 16, 2011)

*bar and chain*

jay156, you sound just like me ayear ago. I run a MS390, same class as your saw, with a 25" roller nose bar. The only diference is my mill is a 30". These guys are spot on, when I finished setting every thing up I only had about 17" of cut. I have moved up to a 30" bar, am looking for an auxillary oiler, and have muf modded my saw. Milling chain makes all the difference. Good luck, milling is a blast!


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