# Oregon 410-120 questions



## Alpendave (Jan 17, 2019)

Got an Oregon 410-120 Grinder for Christmas and used it for the first time last night. Earlier, I noticed that the chains I bought had more of a 20 degree angle than a 25. I went with the 25 like the chart said. I also used the 10 degree tilt like tech art said (though the 410-120 doesn’t say ten degrees I just hoped that “right away all the way was 10).

When I clamped the chain down, it tilted the chain. Thankfully, it tilted the opposite way for the cutters on the other side. Wasn’t much, but makes 10 degrees hard to find.

When I did the depth gauges, I dressed the wheel, but ten the tops of the depth gauges came out flat. Is that a bad thing? Or should they slope down? In that case, wish I hadn’t dressed the wheel. I used a Stihl depth gauge tool and file for the first one, but even with the stopper, the grinder took them down more than I anticipated. And the right hand cutters would chatter at first. I’m guessing from the way the wheel contacts them as they pointed against the direction of the wheel. At any rate, it is a very wood hungry and scary chain to use now. Won’t be grinding the gauges for a long time.

Has this happened with anyone else? I’m guessing that if I hadn’t dressed the wheel, I could then angle it and align it with the depth Guatemalan guide that is on the guages themselves. Your thoughts?


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## Huskyuser (Jan 28, 2019)

I also have the 410-120 and for the money it's a decent chain grinder especially if you're weekend warrior like me.

One of the things I like about grinding my own chains is that I can set those angles to anything I want so long as "I'm" satisfied.

I use a ten degree tilt front to back. I strive to have all the teeth the same length and set the raker depth to about .025. This gives a nice chip without being to aggressive. I don't use the grinder to adjust the raker depth. I don't feel like breaking the machine down just to dress these and do them by hand with a flat file.

Burr is something which also affects the cut. What I don't like about these sharpeners is the wheel rotate in one direction. While this is great for the front teeth, the rear teeth end up with a burr extending from the cut edge and this has caused the saw to cut crooked. To correct this I change the rotation of the grinding wheel, force it to run backwards. This allows me to cut into the tooth rather than away from it and doesn't not leave a burr. Since the wheel throws sparks at me instead of away I wear a safety shield.

I'm thinking of adding a second grinder, one to sharpen and one to dress the raker height. This keep consistency tight and will translate into cutting performance.


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## Jon9sered (Jul 13, 2020)

Alpendave said:


> Got an Oregon 410-120 Grinder for Christmas and used it for the first time last night. Earlier, I noticed that the chains I bought had more of a 20 degree angle than a 25. I went with the 25 like the chart said. I also used the 10 degree tilt like tech art said (though the 410-120 doesn’t say ten degrees I just hoped that “right away all the way was 10).
> 
> When I clamped the chain down, it tilted the chain. Thankfully, it tilted the opposite way for the cutters on the other side. Wasn’t much, but makes 10 degrees hard to find.
> 
> ...


you have to dress the bigger wheel as per instruction manual ...yes I know thats almost impossible to do.


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