# Root problems?



## lucky (Sep 15, 2004)

I have some 12-16 inch sequoias in pots. I noticed one of them has a root or two wrapped around the base near soil level. I assume this is from being started in a plug and not transfered to a pot soon enough. Should these roots be cut off or left alone?
Thanks in advance.


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## rumination (Sep 15, 2004)

Roots that wrap around the base of a tree are known as girdling roots, and are usually a product of being left in a container too long. The earlier they are removed in the life of the tree, the better (smaller wound). Make sure your cuts are clean and that orientation of the roots after being cut is not such that it will just grow right back around the trunk. When planting the trees check the root ball for other circling or girdling roots and cut those as well.

See also: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16747


Good luck with those baby giants!


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## Guy Meilleur (Sep 15, 2004)

> _Originally posted by lucky _
> *I Should these roots be cut off or left alone?
> *


None of the above, ideally. I hate to disagree with ya Rumi, but the best solution is to unpot the trees and shake off the soil. Then straighten all the roots you can. If some are too woody to straighten, then yes they must be cut. 

Repot in a large enough pot to accomodate the roots without them getting kinky. Prune the ones that are too long; don't worry, they regrow, just like a reduced branch.

O and Leon, the thread you linked was about trees that have been in the ground for years; too late to straighten those roots. But for a 12-16" tree, easy to "frazzle" (straighten) roots and get em started right.


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## lucky (Sep 15, 2004)

Thanks for the reply.  I'll try the root amputation right away. Is there anything to put on the wound to sterilize and seal out pathogens? Thanks again.


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## lucky (Sep 15, 2004)

Thanks Guy. Maybe I'll try a little root straightening before I get out the saw. Only kidding. The roots in question are around 1/4 inch in diameter. Not sure if I can straighten them without completely disturbing the plant but I'll give it a shot. Thanks.


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## rumination (Sep 15, 2004)

*Re: Re: Root problems?*



> _Originally posted by Guy Meilleur _
> *None of the above, ideally. I hate to disagree with ya Rumi, but the best solution is to unpot the trees and shake off the soil. Then straighten all the roots you can. If some are too woody to straighten, then yes they must be cut.
> 
> *




You're right, of course, Guy. I misread lucky's original post and thought the trees were in 16" pots, not 16" tall, and were therefore much larger! I figured any girdling root on a tree of the size that I was imagining would be woody enough that it couldn't be straightened. I gotta start reading more closely. 

As for the link, I just thought it might be informative to point out what these, and other planting problems can become as a tree matures.


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## lucky (Sep 15, 2004)

Leon, thanks for the link. Very informative to someone such as myself. The little guys are over a year old now and the roots are a little woody. Do I use the 044 or 335xp? 
No seriously would you use an exacto knife, side cutters or what?


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## Tom K (Oct 5, 2004)

*Girdling roots*

All:

New member to an interesting forum. 
I post simply to bring up the issue of how to avoid girdling roots in container grown trees in the first place or simplfy their elimination whenever anyone is planting a container grown tree. 
I am well aware of ventilated containers and grow bags that accomplish air pruning that are coming onto the market. Copper coating of container inner walls is also being used to truncate the roots. Anything else out there?
Additionally, has anyone ever looked at using the growing media as a way to easily access girdling roots when transplanting or potting up?
What I am thinking is that if Lucky here could easily see and expose the top of the root system without having to pull apart the entire root ball, (s)he would have a better chance at correcting the problem.


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## Guy Meilleur (Oct 7, 2004)

Actually i don't see a huge problem with pulling the whole ball apart. I fyou use compressed air or water you won't hurt big roots. Many container trees I wind up barerooting cuz they're so twisted inside. And lucky, to repeat, I wouldn't cut a woody root unless it was certain to girdle.


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## Tom K (Oct 7, 2004)

Guy and all:

Thanks for the response. 

I suspect that some landscapers would argue that they do not have time to tear apart container root balls to ensure that roots are not prone to girdle when populating large planting sites. Or for that matter, I question whether homeowners buying a containerized tree from a big box even know to check. 

So I was thinking more along the lines of how container growers could help ensure that the products that they produce are viable in the long term....without relying on extensive education of the person doing the planting. Relatedly, what would be acceptable to Certified Arborists out there who understand the issues and see the results of girdling roots first hand.

For example, would there be acceptance of a container that has a native soil/peat mix in the bottom with a top layer (50-100mm) containing a high percentage of Haydite. When the tree is removed from the container, the Haydite mix would completly fall away, exposing the top roots. The person planting the tree would immediately have access to any girdling roots. 

A second benefit would be that native soil from the planting hole would be used to fill in around the top roots to help establishment. The native soil mix in the bottom of the container would also give the tree a good start after transplant.

A third benefit would be that there would be a better chance that the plant would be planted at the right depth.


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## Guy Meilleur (Oct 7, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Tom K _
> * I suspect that some landscapers would argue that they do not have time to tear apart container root balls to ensure that roots are not prone to girdle when populating large planting sites.
> *Yes they do say in effect that they cannot afford to do a good job. That's BS.
> *Or for that matter, I question whether homeowners buying a containerized tree from a big box even know to check.
> ...


It''s as simple as finding the flare every time the plant is handled, and pruning long roots whenever the plant is "stepped up" to a larger container. Not rocket surgery, pennies of time per plant.

I think your idea of two kinds of media in a pot would not work so well; too hard to spec for different size pots, etc.


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## Tom K (Oct 7, 2004)

Guy:

Thank you again for your prompt reply. I hear and empathize with your frustration.

I am new to this forum so I may have the wrong idea that we are here to exchange ideas and knowledge on how to properly plant and save trees. That objective, if correctly deliniated, may not be advanced, in my humble opinion, by criticizing or belittling those who touch the tree before it needs the attention of a certified arborist. Let me assure you that we all share the feeling of loss when we see a tree girdled to death after three years.

So I suggest that we step back and look at the objective rather than the exact implementation I submitted. Should we propose alternatives that strive to eliminate the chance for improper care and planting in the first place?.... without the need for unrealistic education of the "screwed" but busy homeowner or the uneducated hourly laborer at the nursery.

The fact that your suggestion to Lucky involved "shaking off the soil" would suggest that "forcing" the exposure of the top roots might be a good thing.... 

But I might be wrong...and this may not be the forum to even bring it up.


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## tomreeve (Oct 7, 2004)

*Idealism*

I think that the best way to seal with girdling roots is to not have them in the first place. As a Nursery Tech I see tons of pot bound plants left to struggle for years without being upped to a bigger pot. If the nurseries would either take care of these plants be4 they become a problem, or reduce their stock to nothing each fall (which in my opinion is the most long term cost effective solution). But this is just an ideal situation. the place I work at has 80 acres and 3 full time tech 2 part time sales and one owner, and lots falls though the cracks.
I digress... You are not wrong tom, this is the forum to discuss these ideas and I welcome you and them
aloha 
tom


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## Tom K (Oct 9, 2004)

Tom:

I do not see your comments as a digression at all. Rather, good practical, real life experience. Thanks.

80 acres of trees tended by 3+ Techs is probably keeping you busy. If my experience holds true to your site, manually applying herbicides and fertilizer to the containers takes alot of time away from the needed task of potting up.

Your suggestion of selling out the entire stock each year does seem to be the long term answer but that alternative relies on market forces that are beyond your control...as compared to ideas that deal with time and resource management on site. For example, could you Fertigate to allow more time to grow better (healthier) trees in bigger containers?


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