# Low compression on my new Stihl MS362



## James Sawyer (Mar 21, 2019)

I fell a couple trees with my new MS362 today. I had the shop tune it at the time of purchase. The saw just didn't cut like I thought it should, it didn't take much to stop the chain. My saw has a tach and the hour meter which shows .3 hours and I only ran 1/2 tank thru it. I wanted to baseline the compression so I'd have a reference and it came in at 110psi on three tests (WOT). There is nothing wrong with my compression gauge I've used it lately on two other saw's I have and trust the gauge. I'm really nerves after reading other members post on new saw compressions. Should I take this saw in for warranty or is it too early to tell. I'm really thinking about running a camera into the cylinder to see how it looks. The saw power is so low too dangerous to use to fall anymore trees.


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 21, 2019)

If that compression number is correct, take that saw back immediately, that`s very low and won`t come up much when broke in, no sense in waiting. Let the dealer pull the muffler and take a look at the piston.


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## boltonranger (Mar 21, 2019)

110? Ah that’s a shame. It seems we often read about claims of bad gas when a saw goes in with problems. I’m going to assume it was good fresh mix. Would it be worthwhile to bring your gas can in as well?

Although I don’t know a way to check its “strength” — at least your Dealer could see for himself...


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## drf255 (Mar 22, 2019)

Make sure decomp wasn’t depressed during comp testing, but that wouldn’t explain low power. 

I’d say to check the piston, but once you touch anything you’ll become “it” and the dealer may not honor things. 

I like the tach setup. Looks factory. 

Take it back ASAP to the dealer. The sooner the better.


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## jltrent (Mar 22, 2019)

Take it back ASAP. It does not take, but a few seconds/minutes to destroy a piston and possibly a cylinder with an air leak, to lean of a setting and of course bad gas. In my early days I was tinkering around with one making it run even though not right doing everything to try and get right and destroyed the top end in just a few minutes and I mean very few minutes. It turned out to have an air leak. It could even have a ring sticking or a piston/cylinder that got through QA and should have been declined. Wifes brother who is a 35 year Mahle employee in the piston division told me a story of a new inexperience employee letting some pistons get through that didn't meet specks and the company had to deal with it.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 22, 2019)

The fuel in the saw was what the shop put in, they filled both the oil and the fuel tanks, then tuned my saw. I installed an MS462R oiler, changed the dwg and installed the tach. I started the saw ran it just enough to check the tach. Yesterday I fell two trees both leaners , one I had to pull a bit. I was having trouble with the face even, I just could load the saw or the chain would stop. I'm doing the back cut on 1st tree and it started to go and huge hinge couldn't keep the saw cutting. I thought well its not broke in. I squared the butt on that tree, then went to fall the next one. This tree I had to pull a bit to get it in the lay. Same problem... this tree had a bigger hinge when it went just couldn't keep the saw cutting... neither tree needed a wedge, so the bar wasn't pinched. I let the saw idle a bit to cool then shut it off, when down to the house and check the compression. Majorly bummed... I have a small 5mm camera with a light build in that connects to my phone. I think I'll slide it in thru the plug opening and see what the cylinder looks like. Unless the compression release is faulty and yes I pulled the release back out when I pulled the cover. The saw does flood pretty easy...funny I was just in the shop yesterday picking up a couple plugs and had their tech check it because I just thought that not right to have to hold the throttle wide open to get it to start.


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 22, 2019)

Is that tach an approved by Stihl modification? Reason I ask is a friend took his saw back for the dealer to check out a carb/fuel problem and the dealer would not touch it as the owner had drilled 6 holes in the airfilter cover, he stated it was not a stock saw anymore.


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## Okie (Mar 22, 2019)

Take it back ASAP. (be aware that they may want to shift the blame for the saw's weakness to you and void any warranties)

The longer you wait or the more you fool around with the saw the more chance that you voided any warranty becomes an issue. (appears maybe you are in the voided warranty area already)

*keep us posted on the results?*


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

Wait for it !!!!!!
Ethanol did it!!!!!!


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## wcorey (Mar 22, 2019)

Undo any mods you did like the dogs, oil pump and tach before bringing it back.


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

wcorey said:


> Undo any mods you did like the dogs, oil pump and tach before bringing it back.


Good catch!


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## dmb2613 (Mar 22, 2019)

I think the shop did the changing


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## James Sawyer (Mar 22, 2019)

The shop looked at my saw yesterday, they didn't seem to care about the mods. They thought the tach was a good Idea. I hear ya on the oiler thou because if I get a replacement, I'm out $100. But this is a good shop so I'm not so worried about the mods. ...its a dwg and a tach, there's no holes... the tach is sealed in the cover. The tach is inductive so no mods to the saw at all that isn't factory other then the cover. Plus there's the winter and summer plug if there concern about a leak to the filter...the saw only has .3 total hours on it. Yesterday when I had the saw in at the shop because of the flooding and I thought something was wrong with it. At that time they saw the hour meter was at 0 hours...hadn't ran long enough to even give a reading. It would be pretty hard to say I did something to the saw. The shop ran my saw yesterday. I think its best to just take it in...as suggested. The way I look at it I did what was required to make sure the saw was square with the shop, they told me there was nothing wrong with the saw run it. I had flooded it! I wondering if the compression release is faulty...the saw idles fine thou. Not sure but since it new...going to let them figure it out. Taking the saw in on my lunch...I have my camera here so if need be I'll look in on the cylinder with them.


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> The shop looked at my saw yesterday, they didn't seem to care about the mods. They thought the tach was a good Idea. I hear ya on the oiler thou because if I get a replacement, I'm out $100. But this is a good shop so I'm not so worried about the mods. ...its a dwg and a tach, there's no holes... the tach is sealed in the cover. The tach is inductive so no mods to the saw at all that isn't factory other then the cover. Plus there's the winter and summer plug if there concern about a leak to the filter...the saw only has .3 total hours on it. Yesterday when I had the saw in at the shop because of the flooding and I thought something was wrong with it. At that time they saw the hour meter was at 0 hours...hadn't ran long enough to even give a reading. It would be pretty hard to say I did something to the saw. The shop ran my saw yesterday. I think its best to just take it in...as suggested. The way I look at it I did what was required to make sure the saw was square with the shop, they told me there was nothing wrong with the saw run it. I had flooded it! I wondering if the compression release is faulty...the saw idles fine thou. Not sure but since it new...going to let them figure it out. Taking the saw in on my lunch...I have my camera here so if need be I'll look in on the cylinder with them.


No need for a camera, just pull the muffler!


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> No need for a camera, just pull the muffler!


Wait, now does it feel like more compression and also run better? If so you had the release on a little when tested.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 22, 2019)

ok...back from the shop. 110psi on their gauge, Stihl doesn't spec compression on their saws the shop said. The shop in no-way was trying to side step my concern. They started my saw several times, ran the compression test 110psi same as I got. I asked them what they thought of that.. they where as surprise as me. I got the impression they never ran compression on new saw? So they pulled a new MS362 off the shelf, never had fuel in it, ran the same compression test 110psi. They took my saw out to their test log (fir ~22") and ran several test cuts...basically full bar length cuts. Nice chips and they where able to put some load on the saw. The chain stopped several time, same as I was having. They thought the saw was fine, possible new engineering on the cylinder and they just test low on a static compression. They would have pulled the muffler earlier and said so but they say the saw runs pretty good... no point. They think I should just run the saw and see how it is once it breaks in...it has .4 hour now. I checked the max they ran on my tach RPM 13,200 during their testing. I don't know...not sure I like these new EPA saw. Makes me appreciate my old school 034av. I think I'll run my camera into the cylinder when I get home just to look around I'm just not feeling great about this new saw.


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> ok...back from the shop. 110psi on their gauge, Stihl doesn't spec compression on their saws the shop said. The shop in no-way was trying to side step my concern. They started my saw several times, ran the compression test 110psi same as I got. I asked them what they thought of that.. they where as surprise as me. I got the impression they never ran compression on new saw? So they pulled a new MS362 off the shelf, never had fuel in it, ran the same compression test 110psi. They took my saw out to their test log (fir ~22") and ran several test cuts...basically full bar length cuts. Nice chips and they where able to put some load on the saw. The chain stopped several time, same as I was having. They thought the saw was fine, possible new engineering on the cylinder and they just test low on a static compression. They would have pulled the muffler earlier and said so but they say the saw runs pretty good... no point. They think I should just run the saw and see how it is once it breaks in...it has .4 hour now. I checked the max they ran on my tach RPM 13,200 during their testing. I don't know...not sure I like these new EPA saw. Makes me appreciate my old school 034av. I think I'll run my camera into the cylinder when I get home just to look around I'm just not feeling great about this new saw.


Try spraying soapy water on the plug base and compression release white pulling the pullcord carefully to check for leaks then pull the muffler something is def wrong with that saw !I dont care what they said! I wouldn't sell a used one with that shitty compression!


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## av8or3 (Mar 22, 2019)

You know, it may just need to be broken in. My 462’s chain stopped many times the first time I ran it. I adjusted my technique and kept cutting. But I ran it for about 1 1/2 hrs that first day. The next day the saw was noticeably stronger. It has been noticeably stronger each time I have run it and I think I have about 4-5 hours on it. I was counting tanks, but lost count. Maybe it’ll come around. I mean they showed you a brand new one is the same so run it like you stole it and it will either fail or not.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 22, 2019)

The sap is starting to run a little and the full comp chain...maybe the Gulet is getting full and stopping the chain...it just didn't seem right. The tree were leaners so they went early...just worried about a Barber Chair or splitting up the trunk. I'll just cut firewood with this MS362 for now use one of my other saws to fall with. I just don't like standing there as the tree going tryin to cut up to the hinge with a saw that won't saw.


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Try spraying soapy water on the plug base and compression release white pulling the pullcord carefully to check for leaks then pull the muffler something is def wrong with that saw !I dont care what they said! I wouldn't sell a used one with that shitty compression!


Anything less than 150 is unacceptable.


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Anything less than 150 is unacceptable.


Well close but 110 is fooked! What do you think is the cause?


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Well close but 110 is fooked! What do you think is the cause?


EPA.


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> EPA.


They have destroyed almost as many machines as Communists have taken lives!


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> They have destroyed almost as many machines as Communists have taken lives!


Lol!


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Lol!


I suppose not! Way less! OP pull the muffler.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 22, 2019)

According to the shop its Engineering on the ports on a static compression test, when the saw runs it has higher charge. But no way to prove that! So...I don't know...its tuned right, revs fine, the plug looks good. Its running 13,200 so maybe slightly lean. Heck if I know...but concerning for what I got into it. Makes me wish I bought a Husky. I figured this would be the last saw I'd buy and would be my go too saw.Now my AV034 is again, I won't fall with that MS362. I like the weight, balance and bar length of the MS362... I just don't know what to think. Most professional don't even work on their saws or run compression test, no way they would on a new saw. They run good fuel, clean the filter...the saw doesn't work take it to the shop. Use their back up saws until it's out of the shop. My dad always ran his saws two years then traded it off...kept the newest used saw as a backup. Sometime when money was tight and the new saw got smashed, he'd run that backup until he could afford a new saw. He just keep extra bar in the truck if he got hung-up he could get out with wedges.


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> According to the shop its Engineering on the ports on a static compression test, when the saw runs it has higher charge. But no way to prove that! So...I don't know...its tuned right, revs fine, the plug looks good. Its running 13,200 so maybe slightly lean. Heck if I know...but concerning for what I got into it. Makes me wish I bought a Husky. I figured this would be the last saw I'd buy and would be my go too saw.Now my AV034 is again, I won't fall with that MS362. I like the weight, balance and bar length of the MS362... I just don't know what to think. Most professional don't even work on their saws or run compression test, no way they would on a new saw. They run good fuel, clean the filter...the saw doesn't work take it to the shop. Use their back up saws until it's out of the shop. My dad always ran his saws two years then traded it off...kept the newest used saw as a backup. Sometime when money was tight and the new saw got smashed, he'd run that backup until he could afford a new saw. He just keep extra bar in the truck if he got hung-up he could get out with wedges.


All you need is a person on here wit a similar saw to test his! BS on the 110 being good!


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 22, 2019)

Mine is well broken in now, 145 -150 on any given day but its the older carbed version.


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Mine is well broken in now, 145 -150 on any given day but its the older carbed version.


Quick search says that’s typical. You didn’t by chance check it New, did you?


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## boltonranger (Mar 22, 2019)

Well... you have a few things on your side. Shop mix. 110 from a sister saw at the dealer. Documented. I agree about 110 being low, but- assume the saw fails in the warranty period. There’s enough history to warrant replacement. 
IF the saws compression improves, we’ll all have learned something. Meantime Run it. Like it’s normal. See if it gets better. 

- “Anyone else out there with a saw like the op that can check their compression and post for comparison?”


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 22, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Quick search says that’s typical. You didn’t by chance check it New, did you?



No I did not, seldom if ever check a new saw as I know they all gain 10 - 15 lbs comp after break in. I remember pulling it over and could tell it had plenty of comp to get it started, felt like 130 - 140 from pulling out the recoil. No new saw I ever ran had less than 130 but compression figures can vary a few lbs from one comp tester to another but not 20 on the low side. These newer Stihls are a total different animal to me though but would really be surprised if they started out at 110 lbs cold comp.


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> No I did not, seldom if ever check a new saw as I know they all gain 10 - 15 lbs comp after break in. I remember pulling it over and could tell it had plenty of comp to get it started, felt like 130 - 140 from pulling out the recoil. No new saw I ever ran had less than 130 but compression figures can vary a few lbs from one comp tester to another but not 20 on the low side. These newer Stihls are a total different animal to me though but would really be surprised if they started out at 110 lbs cold comp.


These strato saws are a different animal, for sure! Throw in the auto tune and you start the learning curve all over. I can see a 20# comp improvement after break in.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 22, 2019)

OK on the way home stopped at another Stihl shop that caters to the area loggers. I ask if they ever check compress on new saws..." yes all the time" it should be min of 135psi if it's not ...something is wrong! It's cover under warranty, leave it and they will take care of it so I did. I told him about my oiler upgraded and showed him the hours on saw plus the Max rpm the other shop ran today. Not a word about not being covered under warranty by my bolt-on's. So ...final word if it's new , under 135psi it's faulty...they said they seen batches of faulty saws before and that's what the other saw shop has with the one they test today off the shelf. The other shop should have taken care my saw without question. Boy that was sure nice to hear. Ticket in hand, made my day.


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 22, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> OK on the way home stopped at another Stihl shop that caters to the area loggers. I ask if they ever check compress on new saws..." yes all the time" it should be min of 135psi if it's not ...something is wrong! It's cover under warranty, leave it and they will take care of it so I did. I told him about my oiler upgraded and showed him the hours on saw plus the Max rpm the other shop ran today. Not a word about not being covered under warranty by my bolt-on's. So ...final word if it's new , under 135psi it's faulty...they said they seen batches of faulty saws before and that's what the other saw shop has with the one they test today off the shelf. The other shop should have taken care my saw without question. Boy that was sure nice to hear. Ticket in hand, made my day.


 Good dealer.


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## Huskybill (Mar 22, 2019)

When my saws are brand new I run extra two stroke oil at first so it’s well lubed during break in. At first start up with any new or rebuilt saw I leave the choke on a few seconds longer at every start up. The clear it then cut.


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## lone wolf (Mar 22, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> OK on the way home stopped at another Stihl shop that caters to the area loggers. I ask if they ever check compress on new saws..." yes all the time" it should be min of 135psi if it's not ...something is wrong! It's cover under warranty, leave it and they will take care of it so I did. I told him about my oiler upgraded and showed him the hours on saw plus the Max rpm the other shop ran today. Not a word about not being covered under warranty by my bolt-on's. So ...final word if it's new , under 135psi it's faulty...they said they seen batches of faulty saws before and that's what the other saw shop has with the one they test today off the shelf. The other shop should have taken care my saw without question. Boy that was sure nice to hear. Ticket in hand, made my day.


dont deal wit the shop that lied!


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## drf255 (Mar 23, 2019)

What’s your elevation?

There is a definite difference in compression psi and some calculator for it. 

I’ve had saw gain a lot of compression from breaking in. One time, was a China cylinder, I was at around 80 psi after the first run. Let it sit and next day it was 140. Headscratcher till this day.

I’m suprised the first shop didn’t pull the muffler to view the piston. Kinda sounds like they were avoiding something. That’s a 10 minute test and actually more important than a comp reading.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 23, 2019)

drf255 said:


> What’s your elevation?
> 
> There is a definite difference in compression psi and some calculator for it.
> 
> ...


500 ft at the house...live in Oregon...foothills of Cascade range.


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## drf255 (Mar 23, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> 500 ft at the house...live in Oregon...foothills of Cascade range.


Then 110 for a running saw is absurd.


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## r1stgei (Mar 23, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> ok...back from the shop. 110psi on their gauge, Stihl doesn't spec compression on their saws the shop said. The shop in no-way was trying to side step my concern. They started my saw several times, ran the compression test 110psi same as I got. I asked them what they thought of that.. they where as surprise as me. I got the impression they never ran compression on new saw? So they pulled a new MS362 off the shelf, never had fuel in it, ran the same compression test 110psi. They took my saw out to their test log (fir ~22") and ran several test cuts...basically full bar length cuts. Nice chips and they where able to put some load on the saw. The chain stopped several time, same as I was having. They thought the saw was fine, possible new engineering on the cylinder and they just test low on a static compression. They would have pulled the muffler earlier and said so but they say the saw runs pretty good... no point. They think I should just run the saw and see how it is once it breaks in...it has .4 hour now. I checked the max they ran on my tach RPM 13,200 during their testing. I don't know...not sure I like these new EPA saw. Makes me appreciate my old school 034av. I think I'll run my camera into the cylinder when I get home just to look around I'm just not feeling great about this new saw.



My 360 consistently 155-160psi... so is my 460, so is my 260.... 110 is low ! If they are trying to say “stihl doesn’t specify their compression” that may be true... however 110psi is NOT normal and a comment like that (without being there to see the entire interaction) is the runaround.... p.s tach idea is awesome! Can you post details on that?


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 23, 2019)

I wonder what the squish clearance is in these saws? The 362 is the lowest comp Stihl I own.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 23, 2019)

r1stgei said:


> My 360 consistently 155-160psi... so is my 460, so is my 260.... 110 is low ! If they are trying to say “stihl doesn’t specify their compression” that may be true... however 110psi is NOT normal and a comment like that (without being there to see the entire interaction) is the runaround.... p.s tach idea is awesome! Can you post details on that?



yes...sure I can post something, your the only one who has asked. The tach. was "Trail Tech 743-A00 Orange TTO Digital Tach Hour Meter Gauge Surface Mount" I purchased on Amazon $35 and has good refresh rate. " https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07142Q3BL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ". This was not my original idea I saw this on someone else saw but couldn't find anything about it or how to go about recessing the tach. I believe the saw was a MS461 or MS660 with the two piece cover. Newer saw like mine installation or any other I guess is to place the tach where it won't interfere with the carb or the filter. I took some measurement, placed some masking tape under the cover and marked out references. Masking taped the Top of the cover and transferred the location of the tach. to the top. I put masking tape around the bottom sides of the tach so as not to leave perm. Marker ink on the tach. I then used a thin single film double sided sticky tape and stuck the tach down in the desired location and checked square. The double sided tape has to hold the tach solid. I originally tried a silicon base double sided tape because it peel off easier but it didn't hold the tach well enough. The tach would move slightly when I trace around the tach. and I had to peel of the masking tape on top and start over. I would drill the tach mounting locations with a 3mm drill bit, the bore are 4mm. you might want to start with the 4mm to get a slight center location. The 3mm drill could walk, these ear there not a lot of material. Once the outside of the tach is trace well, remove the tach. The tach. has some recess half moons areas on its top, this is where I had to make ears to hold the tach to the cover. I placed some washer on the trace marks so I can mark this material I wanted to leave. Here where I when thru the learning curve ...where it would be most helpful to other. The plastic covers are thick plastic and they are surprisingly strong and machining the plastic accurately isn't easy. Just like porting the direction etc of the cutter matters and the cutter wants to jump. Plus it plastic I tried all kinds of burrs ,double cuts, diamonds, dermal bits, Sand paper etc. If you can make these work to a precision level you got my nod...hats off to you...you have some skills. So if you look close to mine it wasn't perfect because this is tough to do with cutters. Here is what I would suggest and in the end what I did... use a cutter to remove most of the plastic out near the finish outline. Then switch to some files and slowly bring this out to finish line but not quite. Again a mistake I made was I checked the tach to the opening from the top, If I was to do this again I would check the cutout with the tach from the bottom like it going to mount. The tach is curved on the top as is the cover...makes a different. Mount the tach...your should come out much better than mine. Since mine wasn't perfect I took some JB weld mixed it and put it in a syringe with a 18 gauge tip and when around the tach inside the cover and then painted around the tach. The plastic like I said is good and strong you could get away without the JB. How well this hold up I don't know I have .3 hours on this saw. The Tach. has the time like a clock, the instant RPM, the Max RPM and hour meter, there a button on the top of the tach to change screen. The tach is pretty nice. The tach comes with a long lead and its inductive meaning the lead just has to be near the spark plug wire. When I screwed the tach to the cover I install some plastic wire loops to hold the extra wire I wanted to keep. I took a copper alligator clip and modified it to clamp around the spark plug making sure it smooth and it wouldn't damage the rubber spark plug cable. Mount the tach lead to the clamp. I'm going to solder mine but for now it just used the screw that came with the clip. I spiral wrapped the extra wire and place in the cable loops leaving a short lead between the extra wire and clip. You could for go the extra wire but I wasn't sure how all this was going to hold up and I want the extra wire just encase. So when you have to remove the cover just unclip the tach lead. If you want to do this and you send me your address i'll send you a copper alligator clip they might be hard to find. The shop has my saw now and I didn't take pictures or I'd post them. Hope this helps...wish I could have found something on this prior to mine, it sure would have came out much better but as it is its not bad. That tach not coming out and its strong didn't weaken the cover at all.


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## r1stgei (Mar 24, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> yes...sure I can post something, your the only one who has asked. The tach. was "Trail Tech 743-A00 Orange TTO Digital Tach Hour Meter Gauge Surface Mount" I purchased on Amazon $35 and has good refresh rate. " https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07142Q3BL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ". This was not my original idea I saw this on someone else saw but couldn't find anything about it or how to go about recessing the tach. I believe the saw was a MS461 or MS660 with the two piece cover. Newer saw like mine installation or any other I guess is to place the tach where it won't interfere with the carb or the filter. I took some measurement, placed some masking tape under the cover and marked out references. Masking taped the Top of the cover and transferred the location of the tach. to the top. I put masking tape around the bottom sides of the tach so as not to leave perm. Marker ink on the tach. I then used a thin single film double sided sticky tape and stuck the tach down in the desired location and checked square. The double sided tape has to hold the tach solid. I originally tried a silicon base double sided tape because it peel off easier but it didn't hold the tach well enough. The tach would move slightly when I trace around the tach. and I had to peel of the masking tape on top and start over. I would drill the tach mounting locations with a 3mm drill bit, the bore are 4mm. you might want to start with the 4mm to get a slight center location. The 3mm drill could walk, these ear there not a lot of material. Once the outside of the tach is trace well, remove the tach. The tach. has some recess half moons areas on its top, this is where I had to make ears to hold the tach to the cover. I placed some washer on the trace marks so I can mark this material I wanted to leave. Here where I when thru the learning curve ...where it would be most helpful to other. The plastic covers are thick plastic and they are surprisingly strong and machining the plastic accurately isn't easy. Just like porting the direction etc of the cutter matters and the cutter wants to jump. Plus it plastic I tried all kinds of burrs ,double cuts, diamonds, dermal bits, Sand paper etc. If you can make these work to a precision level you got my nod...hats off to you...you have some skills. So if you look close to mine it wasn't perfect because this is tough to do with cutters. Here is what I would suggest and in the end what I did... use a cutter to remove most of the plastic out near the finish outline. Then switch to some files and slowly bring this out to finish line but not quite. Again a mistake I made was I checked the tach to the opening from the top, If I was to do this again I would check the cutout with the tach from the bottom like it going to mount. The tach is curved on the top as is the cover...makes a different. Mount the tach...your should come out much better than mine. Since mine wasn't perfect I took some JB weld mixed it and put it in a syringe with a 18 gauge tip and when around the tach inside the cover and then painted around the tach. The plastic like I said is good and strong you could get away without the JB. How well this hold up I don't know I have .3 hours on this saw. The Tach. has the time like a clock, the instant RPM, the Max RPM and hour meter, there a button on the top of the tach to change screen. The tach is pretty nice. The tach comes with a long lead and its inductive meaning the lead just has to be near the spark plug wire. When I screwed the tach to the cover I install some plastic wire loops to hold the extra wire I wanted to keep. I took a copper alligator clip and modified it to clamp around the spark plug making sure it smooth and it wouldn't damage the rubber spark plug cable. Mount the tach lead to the clamp. I'm going to solder mine but for now it just used the screw that came with the clip. I spiral wrapped the extra wire and place in the cable loops leaving a short lead between the extra wire and clip. You could for go the extra wire but I wasn't sure how all this was going to hold up and I want the extra wire just encase. So when you have to remove the cover just unclip the tach lead. If you want to do this and you send me your address i'll send you a copper alligator clip they might be hard to find. The shop has my saw now and I didn't take pictures or I'd post them. Hope this helps...wish I could have found something on this prior to mine, it sure would have came out much better but as it is its not bad. That tach not coming out and its strong didn't weaken the cover at all.



Awesome! Thank you sir! It looks great.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 24, 2019)

We had a family dinner yesterday and I was talking to my nephew about my MS362 and this warranty repair. He's never heard of anyone having a brand new Stihl needing warranty repair. So, I ran a search on this site and came up with nothing. Has anyone had experience with Stihl warranty...just wondering what to expect?


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## lone wolf (Mar 24, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> We had a family dinner yesterday and I was talking to my nephew about my MS362 and this warranty repair. He's never heard of anyone having a brand new Stihl needing warranty repair. So, I ran a search on this site and came up with nothing. Has anyone had experience with Stihl warranty...just wondering what to expect?


Yes a good dealer will fix it and a bad dealer will BS you! Thats why I drive 50 miles each way instead of one mile! And it is worth it! The azzholes around here wont even let me Keep the box the saws comes in!


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 24, 2019)

I had one MS440 that had 3 things go wrong with it in its first 3 - months of use, Stihl denied every one but I knew it really was the dealer I was buying from at that time so I cut ties and it went under within a year after. Other dealers would have fought or pushed to have these things looked after but if a dealer would rather shrug off getting things looked after they are not worth buying from. These days I don`t count on warranty work, very seldom ever needed it and I have been running saws since the early 60`s, if I can repair it myself it is more expedient for me to do it. Never had a catastrophic failure on any saw to date, changing a carb or module don`t bother me a bit.


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## Cope1024 (Mar 24, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> We had a family dinner yesterday and I was talking to my nephew about my MS362 and this warranty repair. He's never heard of anyone having a brand new Stihl needing warranty repair. So, I ran a search on this site and came up with nothing. Has anyone had experience with Stihl warranty...just wondering what to expect?


 The only saw I've needed warranty support on was a Poulan Super DA I bought new in 1978.


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## BGE541 (Mar 24, 2019)

Huskybill said:


> When my saws are brand new I run extra two stroke oil at first so it’s well lubed during break in. At first start up with any new or rebuilt saw I leave the choke on a few seconds longer at every start up. The clear it then cut.



Interesting point... without starting an oil debate I will mention during assembly and first few tanks on a saw a good semi or full synthetic oil can prevent ring seating it seems but all just speculation and applied theories.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 25, 2019)

I just hope Stihl take care of it, I'm just sick about the whole thing. I have $1037 in the saw, with the light bar, the tach, the 462 oiler, the dog and the purchase of the saw. If the warranty isn't good then I'll have another $120 for Meteor cylinder/piston, I'm not sure what OEM cylinder/piston would be? I know a OEM kit for my O34 was $320 which is the reason I bought another saw. Who wants a new saw that you just never trust, who to say it doesn't have other problems. I'm sure its an issue with cylinder but I'm still worried I'm might be stuck with the problem. The saw idles and revs fine, when I ran it just didn't have the power. I'll stop at the shop at the end of the week hope for the best see what going to happen with this.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 25, 2019)

I had little time this morning so I decided to do a little research on Stihl Warranty and Stihl chainsaw FAQ... Hope I'm not hosed on this saw, now I'm worried!


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## lone wolf (Mar 25, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I had little time this morning so I decided to do a little research on Stihl Warranty and Stihl chainsaw FAQ... Hope I'm not hosed on this saw, now I'm worried!
> View attachment 725597


Pull the damn muffler and look for your self and post up some clear pics for all of us to look at. I wouldn't count on a dealer for anything unless you have a good relationship with them. I suspect something is wrong with that low number new!Also I say you should spray soapy water on the compression release and spark plug while pull it over.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 25, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Pull the damn muffler and look for your self and post up some clear pics for all of us to look at. I wouldn't count on a dealer for anything unless you have a good relationship with them. I suspect something is wrong with that low number new!Also I say you should spray soapy water on the compression release and spark plug while pull it over.



Your right... I wish I ran my camera inside the cylinder or pulled the muffler cover of or insisted the 1st shop do so. But...I didn't and I was so surprised the 2nd shop even said they would take care of it and I ran out as quick as I could and got my saw. The 1st shop I was on my lunch hours so not lot time, the 2nd shop I just stop by on my way home. I was just taken by surprise ...they took my saw and handed me a ticket in matter of minutes. I been thinking about this all day , I had to go to town anyway, drove few miles out my way just to see if they even ran compression test on brand new saw and totally surprised me they knew what kind of number they should have. This has taught me one thing I'll never buy new saw without running a compression test...the 2nd shop said they've seen bad batch of saw with low compression before they were not surprised not concern about having to deal with my saw...just took it and gave me a ticket...so I have some hope. Thinking about this maybe I'll stop on my way home and see what they found or at least check on it.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 25, 2019)

I just pulled a new 362 off the shelf and it’s got 150psi. Are they using the right 10mm gauge?


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 25, 2019)

That`s right where they should be , never ever heard of 110 being normal and nothing to worry about.


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## lone wolf (Mar 25, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I just pulled a new 362 off the shelf and it’s got 150psi. Are they using the right 10mm gauge?


Aha you just reminded me my first attempt to do a test with that small plug did the same thing it turned out to be the wrong adapter OP test other saws or pruners whatever and cross check that gauges accuracy! I ordered a Snap on adapter hose and even that was wrong then I switched the Schrader valve in that and it was 160 PSI!


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## Derrick Sawyer (Mar 25, 2019)

Well at least youll find out which dealer to go to in the future, probably the most important thing moving forward. A good one will make it right and earn your business forever. Pretty obvious you got a dud. I do agree on checking the spark plug and especially the decomp valve, i've had bad ones over the years that roasted one of my builds. After pressurizing and spraying soapy water i could see it coming out the stem. IF it was just squish, that would have to be very high i imagine. Even with a perfect saw, they do take a while to break in now, i too have an 034 super and when i ran 362 for the first time it felt super weak. The 034s is about as untamed and unrefined as any small saw i've ever ran. Good luck


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## lone wolf (Mar 25, 2019)

I'm still not convinced the compression tests are accurate! convince me cross check the accuracy with another machine!


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## Derrick Sawyer (Mar 25, 2019)

Even with him and the dealer running tests with different gauges? its unlikely but still a good idea, i would do the same and find my yank your shoulder out non-decomp 066 and see what it reads. You don't even a gauge with some saws, just the hurt your arm test.


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## lone wolf (Mar 25, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> Even with him and the dealer running tests with different gauges? its unlikely but still a good idea, i would do the same and find my yank your shoulder out non-decomp 066 and see what it reads. You don't even a gauge with some saws, just the hurt your arm test.


Test another machine and you have a real good idea if its the gauge or the saw! Let me see if I can find a thread about this that i started. Good reading in there. A simple thing like a Schrader valve cant screw it up bad!


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 25, 2019)

That’s why I don’t like giving compression #’s on tickets. Only when asked. 
Gauges can fail and give a false reading at any time. Or different gauges used on test. I bet we all use a different brand gauge. 
It could be off by only 30 psi. 
That’s enough to say oh shît my engines toast. 
If in doubt pull the muffler.


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## lone wolf (Mar 25, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> That’s why I don’t like giving compression #’s on tickets. Only when asked.
> Gauges can fail and give a false reading at any time. Or different gauges used on test. I bet we all use a different brand gauge.
> It could be off by only 30 psi.
> That’s enough to say oh shît my engines toast.
> If in doubt pull the muffler.


I calibrate mine against 2 other sources if they are all within 1 lb you can bet its right!


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 25, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I calibrate mine against 2 other sources if they are all within 1 lb you can bet its right!



I believe ya. I tossed a gauge the other day because it didn’t match my other two.


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## lone wolf (Mar 25, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I believe ya. I tossed a gauge the other day because it didn’t match my other two.


Check the schrader valve first. I had that happen.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 26, 2019)

Stop at the saw shop on the way home yesterday, talked to the tech he has really hadn't time to look at it since I dropped it off late Friday after work. He did run a cold compression test and got 120 lbs. It was raining side ways yesterday and he didn't really want to go out and test the saw in that. He really was questioning me why the other shop just sent me on my way, they should have looked in to it more. He said he let me know what they find. The saw does have another .1 hours on it since the last two test.


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## lone wolf (Mar 26, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Stop at the saw shop on the way home yesterday, talked to the tech he has really hadn't time to look at it since I dropped it off late Friday after work. He did run a cold compression test and got 120 lbs. It was raining side ways yesterday and he didn't really want to go out and test the saw in that. He really was questioning me why the other shop just sent me on my way, they should have looked in to it more. He said he let me know what they find. The saw does have another .1 hours on it since the last two test.


Even 100 hrs the comp should be good!


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 26, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Even 100 hrs the comp should be good!



It would just be broken in, rings set at 100 hours, when they get 1500 hours on them they might need rings, at 2000 they require a new piston and a good checkup.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 26, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I just pulled a new 362 off the shelf and it’s got 150psi. Are they using the right 10mm gauge?





X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I just pulled a new 362 off the shelf and it’s got 150psi. Are they using the right 10mm gauge?


I'm not sure if they are using a 10mm gauge, My gauge has about 10" rubber hose from the fitting to the gauge. The 1st shop had a setup similar to what I have. Not sure what the 2nd shop has.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 26, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> It would just be broken in, rings set at 100 hours, when they get 1500 hours on them they might need rings, at 2000 they require a new piston and a good checkup.



The guy at the shop said it Normal break-in should be 5 to 6 tanks, I bet my saw doesn't have 1/3 tank...maybe 1/2 ran thru it. I'm just sick about this whole thing...bit concern after reading all the post from you guys. Especially X 66's test...doesn't look good if they don't warranty my saw. X 66's new saw off the shelf ( a saw that's never ran) and he's getting 150PSI cold, both I and 1st shop hot compression test 110 psi, 2nd shop cold 120 psi on my new saw. If X 66's getting 150psi... its not engineering in the cylinder transfers, it just plain a bad saw. The guy last night said he was going to pull a new saw off his shelve too and test it...but he said a new saw should never be <135 psi. He was positive about that. I talked to him about my oiler too...he said that could void the warranty technically. He's said he'd call me let me know...today nice day so hope to hear from him soon.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 26, 2019)

I always see 150-155 on a new 261 and 362. This is a off the shelf 261 with a different gauge than my 362 test. The throttle needs to be wot


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## James Sawyer (Mar 26, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I always see 150-155 on a new 261 and 362. This is a off the shelf 261 with a different gauge than my 362 test. The throttle needs to be wot





X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I always see 150-155 on a new 261 and 362. This is a off the shelf 261 with a different gauge than my 362 test. The throttle needs to be wot


Boy thanks X 66 I really appreciate your time. I ran my test WOT too, the 1st shop did not thou. I'm convinced I have lemon.


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## lone wolf (Mar 26, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Boy thanks X 66 I really appreciate your time. I ran my test WOT too, the 1st shop did not thou. I'm convinced I have lemon.


I aint! did you pull the muffler yet or cross check your gauge! Waiting on some Still shop may not get you anywhere! That part about the oil pump!!!!!


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## lone wolf (Mar 26, 2019)

OP what compression tester do you have and what readings are you getting from other saws? Do you know the tester to give higher readings or is it new?


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## James Sawyer (Mar 26, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I aint! did you pull the muffler yet or cross check your gauge! Waiting on some Still shop may not get you anywhere! That part about the oil pump!!!!!



I'm sorry Lone Wolf ...the shop has my saw and I'm not going take it from them if they are willing to help me! If this shop is willing to address this with Stihl on a warranty issue why would I go get my saw? The shop I bought the saw from isn't. This shop that has my saw now... didn't make a thing on that sell and is willing to help, I'm going to wait! If I get this saw back and no one willing to help...yes I'm going to run a camera inside the cylinder and do a squish measurement also. Then write a heck of letter to Stihl before I take that saw a part. This whole thing has been on my mind and if Stihl won't address this I going to be pretty upset. In fact if the saw has no warranty and I'm on my own... and the cylinder looks good. I think the best thing is to lap the cylinder bring the compression up. This whole situation just is very upsetting...trust me I want to know what the issue is with this saw and if the warranty on Stihl is any good. Its be pretty hard to dispute anything I did that would effect that saw compression. Its the shops fuel, they tuned it and I brought it to them before I cut any wood because it flooded easy, they said it was find. I cut two trees that night, ran A compression test and took it in the next day (Friday noon), Friday night I stop at a different shop they took my saw as a warranty repair. I had hour meter on the saw before I ever used it (.3 hours), the 1st shop put .1 hours on for .4 hour total run time. The saw just didn't seem to have much power when I ran it. The 2nd shop wants to run it before sending it for warranty...I'm not sure why but I'm not going to argue.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 26, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> OP what compression tester do you have and what readings are you getting from other saws? Do you know the tester to give higher readings or is it new?



I'm not sure what the brand my compression tester is....but I trust it. I have two 034 I've been working on and ran compression on both saw in last few months. Tell you what I'll grab my 034av and run another test tonight, take picture...it should be >150psi. The 034 super is torn down blocked off for pressure/vacuum test so can't do that one. If I have time I'll grab my MS460 and run one on that saw too. I'll place a bet with you my gauge is good...fair.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 26, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I'm not sure what the brand my compression tester is....but I trust it. I have two 034 I've been working on and ran compression on both saw in last few months. Tell you what I'll grab my 034av and run another test tonight, take picture...it should be >150psi. The 034 super is torn down blocked off for pressure/vacuum test so can't do that one. If I have time I'll grab my MS460 and run one on that saw too. I'll place a bet with you my gauge is good...fair.



OK ran a check on my compression gauge it's US made... just to put all questions aside about my ability or my equipment. My 034av was a landing saw and pre 1993 so it's old. My MS460 I've had a while 6 or 7 years maybe older, I don't remember but I bought it new. I would say both of these saws are fine as is my equipment. The new MS362 is very low and the readings I took are correct. The readings the 1st shop took are correct I was standing next to them when they took it, I saw with my own eye. Sorry I'm just upset about this darn saw the more I think about putting together a go to saw and have something I can't use. No word from the shop that has my saw today.


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## lone wolf (Mar 26, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> OK ran a check on my compression gauge it's US made... just to put all questions aside about my ability or my equipment. My 034av was a landing saw and pre 1993 so it's old. My MS460 I've had a while 6 or 7 years maybe older, I don't remember but I bought it new. I would say both of these saws are fine as is my equipment. The new MS362 is very low and the readings I took are correct. The readings the 1st shop took are correct I was standing next to them when they took it, I saw with my own eye. Sorry I'm just upset about this darn saw the more I think about putting together a go to saw and have something I can't use. No word from the shop that has my saw today.


Well we eliminated that thanks. I guess you know its the saw now. OK keep us in the loop ,I know you will.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 26, 2019)

Whatever the problem is I can’t see why it wouldn’t be warranty. Just stay on the dealer to get it done. 
I had a saw come in one time that had low compression and was 15 min old. Pulled the muffler piston looked perfect.
But failed a leak down test bad. 
After a teardown a snagged ring was found. Turned out the Piston didn’t have a pin in the ring land. 

This is a 1 1/2 year old ms391. It was registered to a tree service so it’s way out of warranty. 
Stihl shipped a new piston and cylinder to fix it. That problem was supposed to be fixed so they made good on it. Plus I sent them the vid.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 27, 2019)

Thanks guys alot good input


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## pioneerguy600 (Mar 27, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> The guy at the shop said it Normal break-in should be 5 to 6 tanks, I bet my saw doesn't have 1/3 tank...maybe 1/2 ran thru it. I'm just sick about this whole thing...bit concern after reading all the post from you guys. Especially X 66's test...doesn't look good if they don't warranty my saw. X 66's new saw off the shelf ( a saw that's never ran) and he's getting 150PSI cold, both I and 1st shop hot compression test 110 psi, 2nd shop cold 120 psi on my new saw. If X 66's getting 150psi... its not engineering in the cylinder transfers, it just plain a bad saw. The guy last night said he was going to pull a new saw off his shelve too and test it...but he said a new saw should never be <135 psi. He was positive about that. I talked to him about my oiler too...he said that could void the warranty technically. He's said he'd call me let me know...today nice day so hope to hear from him soon.


 It really takes about 10 - 12 tanks before they reach full comp and get as strong as they can, they will have 130 - 135 comp cold right from the start but if oil is present in the cylinder, added or just from assembly then the comp will be much higher. Run the saw, oil gets burned off and the comp will drop until the engine gets run enough to break in and the comp will come back up.
The warranty thing is all about the dealer, if they can find a way/anything changed from basically stock they can at their discretion turn down the warranty. Any part that required a screw to be removed actually voids the warranty if they want to push it. I mentioned earlier a chap drilling extra holes in his airfilter cover, turned down for warranty so I went and bought a new cover through a different shop and replaced the drilled out one. Took the saw in to a different shop that knew me well, they got that saw fixed under warranty with no problem because they knew me and wanted to get the saw fixed. You have now found a shop/dealer that wants to help, let them, don`t interfere yet but let them handle it. If they find the oil pump, not all that likely then deal with that when it happens, just leave the saw there and see what they come up with.


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## boltonranger (Mar 27, 2019)

By allowing the second Dealer to put the saw through their own tests, you’re demonstrating your character as a customer, while allowing him to demonstrate his character as a businessman. You show him you’re not a “nightmare” customer and he shows you his Shop is worth the trip. 
I think you’re doing fine...


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 27, 2019)

boltonranger said:


> By allowing the second Dealer to put the saw through their own tests, you’re demonstrating your character as a customer, while allowing him to demonstrate his character as a businessman. You show him you’re not a “nightmare” customer and he shows you his Shop is worth the trip.
> I think you’re doing fine...



Your right. And if their good, their busy. He should be towards the top of their priority. I would give them a call early Friday and just asked what they found. Then they’ll still have a chance to call Stihl Friday if they haven’t already. 

Shouldn’t take more than a hour to find out the problem. Don’t take but 20 to pull the jug.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 30, 2019)

Bad new...The second shop says they aren't going to do anything about my saw. they ran my saw almost .4 hours so the hour meter is just about to switch to .8 hours total time on the saw. Here's what they said and found. They ran a cold compression test in fact 4 different tests. The saw measures consistently 110 psi hot and 120psi cold. They ran the a cold test as soon as they could look at it, on 1st chance they could take it out and run it on their test log...the saw runs and idle good, rev etc normal unloaded. (By the way they really liked the tach idea because they can get real time measurement on the saw. They did some comparisons to three different tach they use to tune their saws...they said its spot on). On their 1st cuts they found the same thing I found, the saw didn't have any power if they loaded the saw the chain would stop. Took it back into the shop, ran a 2nd compression test and checked the fuel. Which they didn't like the fuel, said it smelled bad. They said on 1st cut test if they just let the saw run and let it do the work , it ran in the 7k range and it should run about 9.6k. They dumped the fuel and ran a 2nd cut test making sure the saw ran out any of the old fuel. Same thing, if they loaded the saw the chain would stop, but now the saw if you let it do the work ran at 9.6K range. At that point they ran the saw some more and did two more compression test they weren't clear on this. They said something about contacting Stihl but it wasn't clear they talked to some one or not. They said the new MS362 when thru a design change and it now runs a smaller plug then the normal BPMR7A 10mm plug and went to a newer 6mm plug. The new 362 design with the 6mm plugs aren't high torque saws they are high RPM saw now... so they aren't comparable to the old saws you have let the saw do the work. So...what's the point of having a dwg on the darn thing? Boy you get into a tree that leaning and you got it get it cut off to the hinge...you load the saw to much and it stops the chain like I found that's not good. You get the slightest pinch on the chain its going stop, its not going have any torque in a cut. All the second shop said is you got let the saw do the work it not comparable to the old high torque saws. I said something about trading the saw off, no comment on that but I really need to run 3 to 5 tanks of fuel thru it and let the saw do the work it not the same saw as the old high torque saw. We talked about my expectation on this ms362 and I said it should run better than my AV034 with a longer bar, I bought this as replacement for my AV034 and it should run at least the same if not better. He really didn't say much other than the saw was spec better then the AV034 and but its a different design and they run different. Anyone want a good deal on new MS362 with .8 hours on it...good lookin saw too. Sound like I'm stuck and out $1000. The did say the new MS462 is heck of saw, will out cut my 460 run unbelievable at 13lbs he got chance to run one and cut with one. Boy, that out make me feel good, buy new saw and it's piece and they got a much better saw that actual works at .7 lbs more. I'm just sick about this whole mess. So... does anyone have a suggestion, because I sure like to hear it. I think for now I'm going run a comparison with my 034 same bar same chain 20" see what I think, I honestly haven't run this saw enough but I've ran saw enough that my option is this new design is junk.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 30, 2019)

You have a couple options far as I can see. If the compression is in fact 110–120 then somethings wrong. Keep it and run it til it most likely fails from the problem. 

Or get your money back at the original dealer. Yes you have that option. But when pressed about that and they know your serious they’ll want to upgrade you to the 462. They can call stihl and they’ll give them the authorization if they want. and then they can see how to handle the saw.


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## dmb2613 (Mar 30, 2019)

Call Stihl if the shop you bought it from want take care of things


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## kyle.kipple (Mar 30, 2019)

I called my dealer and ran your scenario by him. He said from his experience (30+ yrs) that 110 is too low for a new saw even though it hasn’t broke in. He didn’t have one there to check or any documents to back him up. He said call stihl. I’d also spend the 2 minutes and pull the muffler. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 30, 2019)

kyle.kipple said:


> I called my dealer and ran your scenario by him. He said from his experience (30+ yrs) that 110 is too low for a new saw even though it hasn’t broke in. He didn’t have one there to check or any documents to back him up. He said call stihl. I’d also spend the 2 minutes and pull the muffler.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Exactly what he said. 
I’ve never had stihl not help on a legitimate reason. 
Like the 391 I posted about earlier. I and the customer knew For sure they were going to say no. They sent another top end to fix it and he bought a 461 anyway.


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## Cope1024 (Mar 30, 2019)

dmb2613 said:


> Call Stihl if the shop you bought it from want take care of things



I agree. The saw won't develop it's full potential for 4-5 tanks of fuel, but my 2015 sample had plenty power out of the box.


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## Tobystihl (Mar 30, 2019)

There are tight tolerances between piston and rings on the ms362, it may just be tight rings that free up with some time on the logs!
If stihl are not going to help you, you have nothing to lose by cracking on and using it as a previous post mentioned it's under warranty, so worse case scenario, it blows up, you can just take it back and let stihl deal with it!


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## lone wolf (Mar 30, 2019)

Im still waiting for you to pull the muffler the hell with the idiot liars!


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## dmb2613 (Mar 30, 2019)

I work at a Stihl Dealer, no way in hell would we let a saw leave like that. It is buggered up may have broke or no rings on the piston, A new Stihl will run without rings on the piston.


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## lone wolf (Mar 30, 2019)

dmb2613 said:


> I work at a Stihl Dealer, no way in hell would we let a saw leave like that. It is buggered up may have broke or no rings on the piston, A new Stihl will run without rings on the piston.


Wat kind of compression with no rings? And that dealer is a real azzhole ain't he?


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## dmb2613 (Mar 30, 2019)

I never checked to see I was so amazed that it would crank and run like that, I guess it was 20 years ago they did it at Stihl school
I would guess around 100 lbs , but just a guess


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## lone wolf (Mar 30, 2019)

Stihl should be notified of this thread!


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## lone wolf (Mar 30, 2019)

dmb2613 said:


> I never checked to see I was so amazed that it would crank and run like that, I guess it was 20 years ago they did it at Stihl school
> I would guess around 100 lbs , but just a guess


I seen a dirt bike run on 60 but you had to push start the hell out of it.


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## SEAM (Mar 30, 2019)

Send a video of the compression measurement result and lack in cutting performance to the Stihl customer service? Or at least ask if they might be interested in watching such a video?
Looks like the dealers in the area want to avoid dealing with the Stihl claims department themselves. With dealers like that no wonder everyone is buying online these days.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 31, 2019)

Well the cylinder looks good, ran a camera inside for Lone Wolf. Guess I should have put 90 degree mirror on to see the intake. I didn't want to pull the muffler just yet.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 31, 2019)

kyle.kipple said:


> I called my dealer and ran your scenario by him. He said from his experience (30+ yrs) that 110 is too low for a new saw even though it hasn’t broke in. He didn’t have one there to check or any documents to back him up. He said call stihl. I’d also spend the 2 minutes and pull the muffler.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for doing that


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## James Sawyer (Mar 31, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Stihl should be notified of this thread!


I thought about that writing Stihl. I'm going to run it see how it compares to the 034 same bar. That'll tell me lot.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 31, 2019)

I think I'm going see how it runs myself a bit more and if it's not up to what I want I'm going try and take it back...not sure I want another Stilh if the warranty no good. But I'm thinking I want my money back seriously. I pretty much liked Stihl I have 3 Stilh plus this one. But I ran my husky 353 the other day clearing some road blocks and it runs pretty good...maybe that's the future for me if I can't get any support or Stihl warranty is any good. I actually haven't contacted Stihl myself so I can't say their warranty isn't any good. But 2 of the 3 dealer in the area are both saying that just how this design is suppose to run. If you ask me falling with this saw is dangerous. I won't get chance to run this saw until next week. I need pick up some fuel save the receipt so that can blame me for running bad fuel. But I'm seriously not happy in good conscience I can't sell the saw, but I can trade it in worse case I guess argue the shops point that the saw is fine but not for me it's not. Thanks guys for all the support lot of you have gone out of your way to help


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## Colt Marlington (Mar 31, 2019)

Does it look like there's a big gap between the piston and cylinder, in the top picture, right between the two ports?

Course ya still can't see if it's got any rings on it.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 31, 2019)

Ask the Dealer if they preformed a Engine check list. And if it passed. It’s a check list stihl wants them to do before they call tech for a problem or warranty for engine related warranty. 
I hate the dealer won’t dig into the problem. Everyone I know with a new 362 20” loves it. 
If your really leaning towards taking it back then run it just enough to make your decision and be able to say you gave it another try. 

I think a lot of dealers lacks that “go to guy”. You know the old guy in the corner that can pull the saw a few times and know what to look for. 

If they suspect a fuel problem, plug it up to m-tronic software and see what the graph looks like. 
If they suspect a cylinder or piston, do a pressure and vacc test “ look at the piston while muffler off”. 
And a cylinder blow-by test. Then pull the jug if something doesn’t look right. If the compression is truly 110 then somethings wrong.  I’ll make a couple calls tomorrow. You may have to Remind me lol.


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## holeycow (Mar 31, 2019)

OP, you need to march right into the dealer where you bought the saw, speak to the owner, not the desk flunky or the “tech” (tech is a word that describes someone who is not a mechanic, imo).

Put your big-boy pants on and go find out who you can talk to above the dealer.

Your saw is weak. It shouldn’t be.

You describe it as dangerous while falling. I believe you.

You remind me of my youngest son: asks for advice and then doesn’t take it. Over and over...


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## kyle.kipple (Mar 31, 2019)

holeycow said:


> OP, you need to march right into the dealer where you bought the saw, speak to the owner, not the desk flunky or the “tech” (tech is a word that describes someone who is not a mechanic, imo).
> 
> Put your big-boy pants on and go find out who you can talk to above the dealer.
> 
> ...



Couldn’t agree more. A squeaky wheel gets greased! 

You don’t have to go in being an ******* but go in being stern and headstrong for answers. They already won’t help you so what do you have to lose? It’s not like you’re burning a significant bridge if it ends in you telling them to G.F.Y.!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I think I'm going see how it runs myself a bit more and if it's not up to what I want I'm going try and take it back...not sure I want another Stilh if the warranty no good. But I'm thinking I want my money back seriously. I pretty much liked Stihl I have 3 Stilh plus this one. But I ran my husky 353 the other day clearing some road blocks and it runs pretty good...maybe that's the future for me if I can't get any support or Stihl warranty is any good. I actually haven't contacted Stihl myself so I can't say their warranty isn't any good. But 2 of the 3 dealer in the area are both saying that just how this design is suppose to run. If you ask me falling with this saw is dangerous. I won't get chance to run this saw until next week. I need pick up some fuel save the receipt so that can blame me for running bad fuel. But I'm seriously not happy in good conscience I can't sell the saw, but I can trade it in worse case I guess argue the shops point that the saw is fine but not for me it's not. Thanks guys for all the support lot of you have gone out of your way to help


dont trade it in to the jerks that wont help you so they can profit on their lies! I wish you would pull that muffler and see if there is damage!


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 31, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> dont trade it in to the jerks that wont help you so they can profit on their lies! I wish you would pull that muffler and see if there is damage!



He would trade it for what he paid. Not at a discounted price. At least I hope they wouldn’t pull that


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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> He would trade it for what he paid. Not at a discounted price. At least I hope they wouldn’t pull that


Who said they would do that? I dont believe it! They wont even pull the damn muffler! And why didnt they?


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 31, 2019)

People will and can bring back a unit that they didn’t like or found out it was to small for there job. 
In the OP’s case his is warranted. 
The dealer doesn’t like doing it or even mentions it. I can’t find the info I was looking for but this is how the registration is voided. Or can be done online.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Mar 31, 2019)

I agree with lone wolf, pull the muffler and check the rings, then pull spark plug and check squish. Thats what the dealer should have done and you shouldn't have to, but it would be nice to know, we are all very curious about it. If the squish is just very big like 0.040 or more you can base gasket delete without any cutting and make sure the rings are free. If the saw idles and four strokes fine doesn't sound like a fuel delivery issue, but a mechanical one. 

Not sure about these new saws, i was using my 462 yesterday and it was not accelerating good until a couple minutes of working the throttle, then later cutting stumps the thing was smoking hot, i mean you could boil an egg in 5 sec on the muffler, then it didn't start easy after that. i am running 40:1 with Echo Red Guard 2-cycle oil, i don't think the saw would last long without a very good quality oil. It also has the newer spark plug that is smaller so i cant use my usual piston stop tool and my extra NGF BPMR7a. other than that i love the rest of the saw.


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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> People will and can bring back a unit that they didn’t like or found out it was to small for there job.
> In the OP’s case his is warranted.
> The dealer doesn’t like doing it or even mentions it. I can’t find the info I was looking for but this is how the registration is voided. Or can be done online.


They dont put a time limit on there I wonder what the time limit is?


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Mar 31, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> They dont put a time limit on there I wonder what the time limit is?



Not sure. I’ve personally seen less than 2 weeks and a rare case of a month but you can tell it was barley used. 
And nothing bigger than a 261 or FS56.


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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> I agree with lone wolf, pull the muffler and check the rings, then pull spark plug and check squish. Thats what the dealer should have done and you shouldn't have to, but it would be nice to know, we are all very curious about it. If the squish is just very big like 0.040 or more you can base gasket delete without any cutting and make sure the rings are free. If the saw idles and four strokes fine doesn't sound like a fuel delivery issue, but a mechanical one.
> 
> Not sure about these new saws, i was using my 462 yesterday and it was not accelerating good until a couple minutes of working the throttle, then later cutting stumps the thing was smoking hot, i mean you could boil an egg in 5 sec on the muffler, then it didn't start easy after that. i am running 40:1 with Echo Red Guard 2-cycle oil, i don't think the saw would last long without a very good quality oil. It also has the newer spark plug that is smaller so i cant use my usual piston stop tool and my extra NGF BPMR7a. other than that i love the rest of the saw.


Dont let it get that hot! Thats why I carry a bunch of saws!


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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Not sure. I’ve personally seen less than 2 weeks and a rare case of a month but you can tell it was barley used.
> And nothing bigger than a 261 or FS56.


They seem to be really screwin him over! Bunch of BS they should have dug in to it and looked! How do you say nothing wrong if you dont look! I had a 200T a week ago with 160 compression and a scored piston but I looked anyway and that revealed it!


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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)

Here are the pics it had 160 compression!


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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)




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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)

If we sent a copied link to this thread To Stihl USA would there be a way they could read it without sighing in? If so several of us should do exactly that inc the OP!


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## James Sawyer (Mar 31, 2019)

Colt Marlington said:


> Does it look like there's a big gap between the piston and cylinder, in the top picture, right between the two ports?
> 
> Course ya still can't see if it's got any rings on it.


 I took several pictures and thought I posted both side of the exhaust port but guess I hosed that up. The camera has a built in lite and it leaves shadows, I thought the same thing. But I think its shadow from looking at the other pictures. I used my phone the camera is wifi and the picture format is not something easy to find the files to transfer. So I had hard time getting the files to loaded to post.


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## James Sawyer (Mar 31, 2019)

holeycow said:


> OP, you need to march right into the dealer where you bought the saw, speak to the owner, not the desk flunky or the “tech” (tech is a word that describes someone who is not a mechanic, imo).
> 
> Put your big-boy pants on and go find out who you can talk to above the dealer.
> 
> ...




The shop I bought it from is son dad business and I did talk to both of them...they are the once that ran the 1st compression test and ran my saw.


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## dmb2613 (Mar 31, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Here are the pics it had 160 compression! View attachment 726814



I have told many times that a Stihl would run with a scored piston, I got one guy that has an 036 that I told 2 years ago that it need a p/c , hell he still cuts fire wood with it, go figure


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## dmb2613 (Mar 31, 2019)

We replace saws every year that customers bring back, motly cause they cant start them, old folks getting too big of a saw
Stihl has a very liberal policy on that


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## James Sawyer (Mar 31, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> dont trade it in to the jerks that wont help you so they can profit on their lies! I wish you would pull that muffler and see if there is damage!


If I pull the muffler I'm going to have the shop I bought it from pull it. I want to run it some more before I go in agian


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## Colt Marlington (Mar 31, 2019)

Think I would just file the serial number off, wipe it free of prints, dress up in a fat suit, attach a nasty note to it, then go chunk it through the dealers window late at night.


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## SteveSr (Mar 31, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I think I'm going see how it runs myself a bit more and if it's not up to what I want I'm going try and take it back...not sure I want another Stilh if the warranty no good. But I'm thinking I want my money back seriously. I pretty much liked Stihl I have 3 Stilh plus this one. But I ran my husky 353 the other day clearing some road blocks and it runs pretty good...maybe that's the future for me if I can't get any support or Stihl warranty is any good. I actually haven't contacted Stihl myself so I can't say their warranty isn't any good. But 2 of the 3 dealer in the area are both saying that just how this design is suppose to run. If you ask me falling with this saw is dangerous. I won't get chance to run this saw until next week. I need pick up some fuel save the receipt so that can blame me for running bad fuel. But I'm seriously not happy in good conscience I can't sell the saw, but I can trade it in worse case I guess argue the shops point that the saw is fine but not for me it's not. Thanks guys for all the support lot of you have gone out of your way to help



I bought one of the last o26's with the crappy Wt-503B (I think) fixed jet carb. Saw was always stalling at idle especially when you dropped the nose to release the chain brake. Wrote the president of Stihl USA in Virginia Beach and the got the local dealer to take the saw back. I replaced the saw with the newer MS260 Pro.

The new 260 exhibited the same issue after it was broken in. Guess what... It had the same carb! Called Stihl Tech support in VA Beach and they admitted that this was a (bad) characteristic of that particular carburetor. Finally convinced Stihl and the dealer to put the fully adjustable carb on it. No more issues! 

So, yes, I think there is a good chance of either you getting this fixed or a refund if you are persistent with Stihl.


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## superwd6 (Mar 31, 2019)

Just checked my 550xpg that’s perfect with a new compression tester and got 90 psi as I have to use extra adapter for smaller thread of spark plug.My 576xpg s 153psi but no adapter.. when I had trouble with a 545 not running right from new I bought a can of Husqvarna premixed fuel every time dealer said try it [emoji849].Finally got a new saw after cutting around ten large cookies in a row and it scuffed Piston with NO fuel issues [emoji23][emoji23]. Dealer said would’ve been easier had I seized it tight for warranty though [emoji2955][emoji23]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## lone wolf (Mar 31, 2019)

superwd6 said:


> Just checked my 550xpg that’s perfect with a new compression tester and got 90 psi as I have to use extra adapter for smaller thread of spark plug.My 576xpg s 153psi but no adapter.. when I had trouble with a 545 not running right from new I bought a can of Husqvarna premixed fuel every time dealer said try it [emoji849].Finally got a new saw after cutting around ten large cookies in a row and it scuffed Piston with NO fuel issues [emoji23][emoji23]. Dealer said would’ve been easier had I seized it tight for warranty though [emoji2955][emoji23]
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That adapter is causing the low reading I had it happen. Get a tester without the adapter. If you have other machines with the same plug size that needed the adapter check and see.


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## boltonranger (Apr 1, 2019)

SteveSr said:


> I bought one of the last o26's with the crappy Wt-503B (I think) fixed jet carb. Saw was always stalling at idle especially when you dropped the nose to release the chain brake. Wrote the president of Stihl USA in Virginia Beach and the got the local dealer to take the saw back. I replaced the saw with the newer MS260 Pro.
> 
> The new 260 exhibited the same issue after it was broken in. Guess what... It had the same carb! Called Stihl Tech support in VA Beach and they admitted that this was a (bad) characteristic of that particular carburetor. Finally convinced Stihl and the dealer to put the fully adjustable carb on it. No more issues!
> 
> So, yes, I think there is a good chance of either you getting this fixed or a refund if you are persistent with Stihl.


I had the very same issue once. My dealer polished the ports on his own dime to try to mitigate it. He could see what I could see. Mine would not stall but the idle would change when I lowered the nose or set the saw down. We both agreed it should idle the same regardless of position. His fine porting work minimized the issue, and I was satisfied. 

OP you’ve handled this well. But clearly this issue is not resolved, and you’re not satisfied. I don’t blame you. Perhaps consider a return under warranty.
I would suggest, maybe a call to Stihl in VA. Tell them your story. Ask what recourse they offer you as a customer. They are not there to sell saws, the customer center or whatever it’s called is there to try to help you. Perhaps they could offer something like this: “ before you give up on your purchase we’d like to send a new top end to your Dealer at our cost to see if this resolves the issue before you hand us back the saw.”

I can’t say that will happen, but if they know you’re unhappy ask what the can offer once they hear your case. 

If not- I would say trust your compression tester and return the saw. 
(I’m assuming you can)

Maybe they’ll want swap the jug or the whole unit..., or maybe they will let you simply move over to a 460 while giving full credit for the 362. 

Realize if you opt for the last one, it should be like the 362 never happened. New saw. New warranty. You MAY find yourself thoroughly satisfied and not afraid of the brand. In any case, you’re not wed to the nightmare. It’s your money. You have to be the happy one.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

I had to run into town yesterday, bought 5 gallons of non-E prem. fuel and saved the receipt and I mixed a gallon of fuel with Stihl prem-oil 40:1. If its not pouring down rain after works I'm going run up on the hill and run a test on the MS362 against my 034AV same bar and chain 20" see how it cuts. The plan is to cut some cookies and see how it compares. I want make sure Stihl can't say once I put my fuel in the saw that I did anything. So far this saw as only had dealer fuel in it. The MS362 should out cut my 034. But I pretty sure it won't it just did seem like it doesn't have any power at all, any pressure on the chain and it just stops. It floods easy all sign of the low compression in my book. I'm just sick about this whole thing and I got to many things going on to have deal with this whole mess right now. There is no doubt this saw has low compression... it does and from what I can see the cylinder looks fine. I wondering if this is Stihl answer to their "Easy Start" saw but because it doesn't need the compression release to start it. Won't that be a can of worms all new Stihl's with Easy Start will run like this saw, I don't know that but I'm thinking why would they lower the compression so much. If this saw runs like I think it will I'm marching right down to the shop I bought it and get this thing worked out. They can pull the muffler or what ever but I want my money back. Their other new saw on their shelf has the same compression its low too 110lbs. I really want a good running MS362 but I don't see how after this design change and I really think this is due to Easy Start and I'm wondering if this is why the 2nd shop back pedaled on this problem. They really did talk to Stihl... I don't know this for sure but I'm thinking this must be it. Plus they didn't run a compression test on any of their MS362 as they said they would there no point. The more I think about this...that's why they are saying its a high rpm saw not a torque saw like the older ones. That's why both shops are saying I need run it and get use to it, its the new design and that's as good as it gets...get use to it. Boy that is upsetting if this is true.
The reason I bought this MS362 is the weight 12.3 lbs and 60cc size which is the only thing comparable to my 034av 11.6lbs 56cc. I bought the light weight bar to make up the difference between the two. I love that 034 due to it specs and how it runs. I looked at saw specs and the 362 is about the only saw close to that spec. The Husky in 60cc range is heavier and to be honest I always thought Stihl saw are little be better until now. I really don't want buy a Husky or go to 13lb saw. The ms262 it too small and I have 353 if I need something smaller. The ms462 comes in at 13lbs a lot more saw than anything in that weight. To be honest I don't need another 70cc saw I have a ms460 that pretty new I just don't run it much because it heavier. I'm getting older and that 460 going be harder for me to run. My 034 is going to get harder to get parts...the very reason I bought this new saw...I don't want put money into that 034...the more I think about this... It really sucks and I'm think if I'm right it the Easy Start design. What's your guys take on this new thought to this problem if it is true? If this is the case this saw can't be fixed and all your new future easy start saws ...the chain is going stop if you load it at all. Boy I hope this isn't true because the way it cuts and operates is terrible you can't even face a tree without the chain stopping. Stihl should just stop selling saws with dwg's...save the weight there's no point. The more I think about this the madder I'm getting. No Stihl dealer going tell you on a new purchase...this saw runs different it doesn't have any power/torque of the old saw...you just have to baby it try to keep the chain turning as your cutting...the saw will cut if you just take your time...don't work it to hard. Don't worry our saws are better...you bought the best saw. I'm wondering if they changed the head dome in the cylinder or changed the piston...bet it the dome casting. You know what this is not going anywhere me thinking this ...I don't know anything for sure other than I think this new designed saw sucks.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I had to run into town yesterday, bought 5 gallons of non-E prem. fuel and saved the receipt and I mixed a gallon of fuel with Stihl prem-oil 40:1. If its not pouring down rain after works I'm going run up on the hill and run a test on the MS362 against my 034AV same bar and chain 20" see how it cuts. The plan is to cut some cookies and see how it compares. I want make sure Stihl can't say once I put my fuel in the saw that I did anything. So far this saw as only had dealer fuel in it. The MS362 should out cut my 034. But I pretty sure it won't it just did seem like it doesn't have any power at all, any pressure on the chain and it just stops. It floods easy all sign of the low compression in my book. I'm just sick about this whole thing and I got to many things going on to have deal with this whole mess right now. There is no doubt this saw has low compression... it does and from what I can see the cylinder looks fine. I wondering if this is Stihl answer to their "Easy Start" saw but because it doesn't need the compression release to start it. Won't that be a can of worms all new Stihl's with Easy Start will run like this saw, I don't know that but I'm thinking why would they lower the compression so much. If this saw runs like I think it will I'm marching right down to the shop I bought it and get this thing worked out. They can pull the muffler or what ever but I want my money back. Their other new saw on their shelf has the same compression its low too 110lbs. I really want a good running MS362 but I don't see how after this design change and I really think this is due to Easy Start and I'm wondering if this is why the 2nd shop back pedaled on this problem. They really did talk to Stihl... I don't know this for sure but I'm thinking this must be it. Plus they didn't run a compression test on any of their MS362 as they said they would there no point. The more I think about this...that's why they are saying its a high rpm saw not a torque saw like the older ones. That's why both shops are saying I need run it and get use to it, its the new design and that's as good as it gets...get use to it. Boy that is upsetting if this is true.
> The reason I bought this MS362 is the weight 12.3 lbs and 60cc size which is the only thing comparable to my 034av 11.6lbs 56cc. I bought the light weight bar to make up the difference between the two. I love that 034 due to it specs and how it runs. I looked at saw specs and the 362 is about the only saw close to that spec. The Husky in 60cc range is heavier and to be honest I always thought Stihl saw are little be better until now. I really don't want buy a Husky or go to 13lb saw. The ms262 it too small and I have 353 if I need something smaller. The ms462 comes in at 13lbs a lot more saw than anything in that weight. To be honest I don't need another 70cc saw I have a ms460 that pretty new I just don't run it much because it heavier. I'm getting older and that 460 going be harder for me to run. My 034 is going to get harder to get parts...the very reason I bought this new saw...I don't want put money into that 034...the more I think about this... It really sucks and I'm think if I'm right it the Easy Start design. What's your guys take on this new thought to this problem if it is true? If this is the case this saw can't be fixed and all your new future easy start saws ...the chain is going stop if you load it at all. Boy I hope this isn't true because the way it cuts and operates is terrible you can't even face a tree without the chain stopping. Stihl should just stop selling saws with dwg's...save the weight there's no point. The more I think about this the madder I'm getting. No Stihl dealer going tell you on a new purchase...this saw runs different it doesn't have any power/torque of the old saw...you just have to baby it try to keep the chain turning as your cutting...the saw will cut if you just take your time...don't work it to hard. Don't worry our saws are better...you bought the best saw. I'm wondering if they changed the head dome in the cylinder or changed the piston...bet it the dome casting. You know what this is not going anywhere me thinking this ...I don't know anything for sure other than I think this new designed saw sucks.


No point in running a test on their 362's proves they are trying to get out of it! See if you can find a dealer that will help beside the 2 you dealt with! No matter what they will keep lying so go else where.


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## farmer steve (Apr 1, 2019)

Don't tell them your running 40:1. They w8ll tell you that's your problem. WE know it's ok but for a saw under warranty you don't want to give them any reason to deny anything.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> Don't tell them your running 40:1. They w8ll tell you that's your problem. WE know it's ok but for a saw under warranty you don't want to give them any reason to deny anything.


Like 40 to one is worse than 5o to 1 right?


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

Arent the Stihl warranties good at any shop if so keep calling!


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

Didnt one guy on here already post his 362 compression at 150 or more?


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## Ronaldo (Apr 1, 2019)

The bottom line here is that you are not satisfied...…. New 362's should run just as hard as new Husky 60cc saws and I can tell you they are not duds! It sounds like they will take care of you if you push it and that is exactly what I would do. It has nothing to do with easy start or new saw design, etc, etc. Take it back and get your money back or a new piston and cylinder or just do whatever they say Stihl Corporate does in these situations. DO IT!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

I for one am fairly confident that the cylinder has not been changed to run at lower compression, I know guys that are running 362`s that are very new, maybe a month or two old and they are not complaining their saws have no power. They don`t take compression readings or belong to saw forums but do use their saws for commercial use I read a few posts back where a member did a comp test on a new saw off the shelf and it was in the reasonable comp range. No saw I know of will have any power running low comp, this distresses me somewhat that the dealers are giving you the run around instead of digging in and finding out what is wrong with this saw. The waiting til it blows is not the way to handle this situation, they get out of warranty any way they can and the old standby of bad fuel, not the right oil ratio, not the right oil is what they say when a scored saw is brought in. Go over the dealers head if they don`t dig in and start removing parts, mainly the muffler first, even the cylinder to check ring condition, if they won`t then chose to return it for a refund or demand a new saw or trade it for a saw you feel better with. I read where the weight is most important to you so maybe another 362 is the answer. Myself I would not settle with keeping the saw the way it is.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> I for one am fairly confident that the cylinder has not been changed to run at lower compression, I know guys that are running 362`s that are very new, maybe a month or two old and they are not complaining their saws have no power. They don`t take compression readings or belong to saw forums but do use their saws for commercial use I read a few posts back where a member did a comp test on a new saw off the shelf and it was in the reasonable comp range. No saw I know of will have any power running low comp, this distresses me somewhat that the dealers are giving you the run around instead of digging in and finding out what is wrong with this saw. The waiting til it blows is not the way to handle this situation, they get out of warranty any way they can and the old standby of bad fuel, not the right oil ratio, not the right oil is what they say when a scored saw is brought in. Go over the dealers head if they don`t dig in and start removing parts, mainly the muffler first, even the cylinder to check ring condition, if they won`t then chose to return it for a refund or demand a new saw or trade it for a saw you feel better with. I read where the weight is most important to you so maybe another 362 is the answer. Myself I would not settle with keeping the saw the way it is.


Yes by all means pull the muffler today ! Call stihl up directly they have a number on their website. Dont give that crooked dealer any more business!


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## James Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> Don't tell them your running 40:1. They w8ll tell you that's your problem. WE know it's ok but for a saw under warranty you don't want to give them any reason to deny anything.



Ok... that easy problem to fix...I have another 1 gallon gas can I mix another can. I bought 5 gallons of fuel. I usually run 50:1 on all my 2cycle tools. I assuming I won't have to fill the saw anyway, the last dealing filled the tank with fresh fuel and only ran it .4 hours so it should have at least 1/2 tank in the saw.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Ok... that easy problem to fix...I have another 1 gallon gas can I mix another can. I bought 5 gallons of fuel. I usually run 50:1 on all my 2cycle tools. I assuming I won't have to fill the saw anyway, the last dealing filled the tank with fresh fuel and only ran it .4 hours so it should have at least 1/2 tank in the saw.


Pull the muffler!


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## cuinrearview (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Pull the muffler!


+1000


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Didnt one guy on here already post his 362 compression at 150 or more?



You made me go back and look, you posted while I was typing up my long winded post. It was member X66stang347X that tested a new off shelf saw, page 3 post number 53.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> +1000


Whats he got to lose at this point?


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> You made me go back and look, you posted while I was typing up my long winder post. It was member X66stang347X that tested a new off shelf saw, page 3 post number 53.


Stihl should be sent a link of this can a non member read this stuff?


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## cuinrearview (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Whats he got to loose at this point?


I've tried to be quiet. I commented on his poll before he got the saw. Also I'm not really a Stihl "guy".


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## cuinrearview (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Stihl should be sent a link of this can a non member read this stuff?


It's a public message board.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> It's a public message board.


So he can send this link to stihl and they can see they are getting a bad rep!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Stihl should be sent a link of this can a non member read this stuff?



No but they could if sent a link through Google as in a Google search on a subject it would come up. Very doubtful they would bother though as I have often spoke of this site while at the dealer and they had no interest in looking in to it.


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## cuinrearview (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> So he can send this link to stihl and they can see they are getting a bad rep!


Yah, if they see it that way.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

Wouldn`t hurt to try but in general they think we are a group of fanatics. They already have accomplices that scan/read this site, there are robots on here that search for key words but its really set up for sales and not for resolutions.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 1, 2019)

Yes the one I checked and a 261 had 155psi. This was the 10mm tester used on the 362. And the build date is 10/18.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

OP I just called my Stihl dealer talked about your problem . There is a 7 day satisfaction period in which you can return the power head! Now they are going to play the low compression you broke it with ethanol card at that point! Your comeback is well since you people said that there is nothing wrong with the saw or the compression take it back. If you would just pull the muffler maybe we can just get you running with a piston and a ball hone if all fails! Also c all Stihl!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> OP I just called my Stihl dealer talked about your problem . There is a 7 day satisfaction period in which you can return the power head! Now they are going to play the low compression you broke it with ethanol card at that point! Your comeback is well since you people said that there is nothing wrong with the saw or the compression take it back. If you would just pull the muffler maybe we can just get you running with a piston and a ball hone if all fails! Also c all Stihl!



I really don`t think he should pull the muffler just yet, make the shop do it first. If the dealer sees the screws have been out they can ujse that as ammunition not to dig any further, the dam saw is just so new than any lil thing they can see is another nail in the OP`s coffin.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Yes the one I checked and a 261 had 155psi. This was the 10mm tester used on the 362. And the build date is 10/18.



Thank you Sir for doing this service. Not many of us has a new saw to run a comp test on and your test is right where a new saw should be.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 1, 2019)

After reading through all the posts on this thread, I’m suspecting a broken or “ soft “ ring, the dealer should at least pull the top end down and get to the bottom of it. Satisfaction should be their # 1 concern, if not, then they’re not a reputable dealer! Just my humble opinion.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> After reading through all the posts on this thread, I’m suspecting a broken or “ soft “ ring, the dealer should at least pull the top end down and get to the bottom of it. Satisfaction should be their # 1 concern, if not, then they’re not a reputable dealer! Just my humble opinion.



They tend to think more of their bottom line these days, if they did any work to the saw that is not covered by warranty then they don`t get paid for just looking. I realize it takes up their techs time, time is money but looking after a customer is important. It just depends on the dealer about how important just one customer is, since I have been around the saw game a very long time I have seen far too many instances where a customer got poor treatment because he was a one time joe. One place was so bad that if one did not spend $25,000 or more there a year forget about even being talked to.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 1, 2019)

Guys like you and me would have that sucker pulled down and parts ordered in under an hr., if the dealer did that, they’d have a loyal customer for life and word would get out. Take care of your customers like they’re family, it pays off in the long run. Again, just MHO.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Didnt one guy on here already post his 362 compression at 150 or more?


Ya... I need to reply to him. I wondering if he's saw is a 10mm plug or the 6mm plug like mine. That how you can tell if its the new design... the smaller spark plug.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I just pulled a new 362 off the shelf and it’s got 150psi. Are they using the right 10mm gauge?



X 66 Stang 347 X do you know if that saw you tested has the larger 10mm spark plug or the New Designed smaller 6mm spark plug?


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 1, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> X 66 Stang 347 X do you know if that saw you tested has the larger 10mm spark plug or the New Designed smaller 6mm spark plug?



Mines the 10mm. I wasn’t aware there was a 6mm. I’ll look into that and see what I can find. 
When was yours built? 
If you don’t mind I could use your serial number if I make a call.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 1, 2019)

Looking on my ipl I see 2 models so far. The bpmr7a plug model 14mm size. And the cmr6h model 10mm size.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 1, 2019)

Has anyone tried to recalibrate it?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

Ya, the new saws are 10mm and the older version was 14mm plugs, there is no 6mm plug saws yet.


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## SEAM (Apr 1, 2019)

I don't think there should be a problem returning or getting replaced a professional grade piece of equipment that does not perform out of the box... The sooner the better!


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## James Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

Its raining today not sure I can get up the hill. I have to cross a creek and its steep coming out. Its pretty much a 4x4 deal even when its somewhat dry. Depends on how much it rains today and what it's like when I get home. If its' still raining after work I'll stop in at the 2nd saw shop because I can't get up the hill anyway. I want to ask about my thoughts on this easy start, get him to tell me the truth about this new design. I also want to pin him down if they called Stihl or not...he was very vague when asked and transfer the question to Stihl web site, their new software upload on Stihl's new saws/ specs etc. He directed the conversation to ....he ran my saw several times, yes the chain stop if you load the power head. He stated if you let it run it cuts at 9600rpm. He didn't really say he talk to anyone from Stihl. Its hard to say a Stihl dealer (the shop I bought it from) would put old fuel in new products the more I think about this. When I first went into 2nd shop, he was positive this saw had a problem if the compression was <135psi, I was happily surprised what he had to say at that time. That conversation was short..." let me have the saw I'll take care of it", it'll be a warranty" if it less than 135psi. Now...well its this new design, very vague about being able to loaded the saw. He did say my chain was aggressive, its a fC chisel and he made a comment about I should go to a full skip it might be better. I don't want the kick back risk with a full skip. At this point ...I'm starting to go with what white wolf is saying, sound like the run around. I hope this isn't one of those deals like when Stihl came out with the 441 and discontinued the 440. My dad was cutting then and bought one of those 441 and he got rid of it right away piece of junk..Baileys bought lot of the old 440 stock and dad bought a new saw from them instead. That was before Stihl brought back the 440 again until they fixed the problem with the 441. A lot of unhappy logger back then that bought the 441.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Ya, the new saws are 10mm and the older version was 14mm plugs, there is no 6mm plug saws yet.



thanks...it the 10mm plug that is the new design not the 14mm.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 1, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> thanks...it the 10mm plug that is the new design not the 14mm.



Show them my pic of a new 10mm 362 with 155psi. What month and year is yours?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Guys like you and me would have that sucker pulled down and parts ordered in under an hr., if the dealer did that, they’d have a loyal customer for life and word would get out. Take care of your customers like they’re family, it pays off in the long run. Again, just MHO.


 What we want from a dealer and then what we get from them is two totally different stories. I just do all my own work now as its just so much easier than dealing with the stealers, I can tear them down and rebuild them far too easily, does it cost me, sometimes but the less stress at my age the better. My saws will likely outlast me, I can repair them all if necessary but for the most part they are good reliable tools for me. I just bought another couple hundred dollars of parts, do this often and I have a big stash that I may need someday when the models I have become NLA for parts replacement. I began part collecting back around 1990 and have hoarded up a goodly supply for the saw models I own.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 1, 2019)

I really want to hear about this new low compression saw if there is such a thing. My Stihl parts guy said they know nothing about that but they don`t sell many saws above the 261 and 391 now.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> I really want to hear about this new low compression saw if there is such a thing. My Stihl parts guy said they know nothing about that but they don`t sell many saws above the 261 and 391 now.


Aint one and you know it


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## farmer steve (Apr 1, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Has anyone tried to recalibrate it?


Something for the OP to ponder and possibly ask his dealer if they can do that for him. If it's a good dealer and you're selling these M tronic saws they should have the equipment to test them and it will tell them exactly what is wrong


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## James Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Has anyone tried to recalibrate it?


I didn't buy the M-tronic version because there was so much bad press when they 1st came out. Not having any experience on new saws I didn't know if they fixed the problems. I know the M-tronic is a lot better and if I had the M-tronic version they could tell a lot more about this problem. I wanted the carb version because I know they work and I don't need the OEM software to interface. The shop I bought this saw from didn't have the software... I asked them when I was 1st looking at buying a new saw. I know the M-tronic and carb. version have the same cylinders and piston so it hard to say what the different is on this new design. From your post of Stihls doc. it has been changed that for sure. Stihl could have changed the thickness of the base, cc of the head chamber, or the piston TDC height or a variety of these things. I sure the porting was changed too. It doesn't really matter the saw has no power to me. Falling a tree with high sap and chips are going to gum-up and stop the chain, force you into full skip or semi skip to clear the chips. Even then you wouldn't know unless you try it. Thank you for your time...looking up this info...


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Ya... I need to reply to him. I wondering if he's saw is a 10mm plug or the 6mm plug like mine. That how you can tell if its the new design... the smaller spark plug.


Smaller plug is new


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## dmb2613 (Apr 1, 2019)

AS far as I am concerned this is a dead horse. WE cant take the dam saw back for him nor call the Stihl rep for him. 
OP you ask for advice why dont you follow it?


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## James Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

dmb2613 said:


> AS far as I am concerned this is a dead horse. WE cant take the dam saw back for him nor call the Stihl rep for him.
> OP you ask for advice why dont you follow it?



Your right this is in my court. Until Friday I was working with the dealers trying to get them to take care of it. Both dealer say I need to run it ...I have .3 hours of run time on this saw myself and it's been in Dealer hand ever since I had a problem with it. Both dealers are seeing the chain stop my complaint. The 1st dealer has .1 hours and 2nd has .4 hours. Yes... I agree the muffler needs to be pulled at the dealer so it can't be said I voided the warranty. Yes... I need to run it some more so they can't say I didn't make any effort to verify what the dealer are saying. I did make sure I made ever effort to make sure the dealer knew I had a problem with this saw and I do not like how this saw runs as soon as it was possible to do so. That's why I took it in when it flood easily before I ever make one single cut, I saw a problem from the start! Yes the point of purchase that dealer needs to make it right. My next step I need run the saw and just take it back. Not ever having to deal with saw warranties I wasn't sure what I could do. Being a home owner and buying Stihl oil at time of purchase my warranty is good 2 years. I pretty much was in the thought once you buy a saw and run it...its yours a return was not possible, I never dreamed I would be here on a Stihl product. But thanks to everyone advice I'm hearing different. I did follow the advice given on my purchase of this saw and I don't think anyone was aware of this design change...I do think I'm going to have trouble getting my money back and I need to be careful I'm in compliant with the dealer request to a point. I appreciate everyone advice I'm sorry if I seem to not be listening...there is a lot of different thoughts on this. This indeed has been a learning curve, If I was to do this again. I would flat say this saw is not what I wanted and took it back or tried to force the hand. There was a design change ...they the dealer did not inform me this saw runs like this! A course I don't think either dealer really knew. I think this is all new to them also and a surprise to them as well as me. So, on that note taking the groups advice I'm going run the saw tonight and take it back tomorrow. I'm apologize if I offended anyone, that was not my intent. I do appreciate the advice...thank-you! I pretty much think you're all right and I'm not disagreeing. Bottom line I'm the one that going to be out the $1000 not this group...but I know everyone on this site that has responded does care and are trying to help me! THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!


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## Preacher Mike (Apr 1, 2019)

Sounds like an awesome saw.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Your right this is in my court. Until Friday I was working with the dealers trying to get them to take care of it. Both dealer say I need to run it ...I have .3 hours of run time on this saw myself and it's been in Dealer hand ever since I had a problem with it. Both dealers are seeing the chain stop my complaint. The 1st dealer has .1 hours and 2nd has .4 hours. Yes... I agree the muffler needs to be pulled at the dealer so it can't be said I voided the warranty. Yes... I need to run it some more so they can't say I didn't make any effort to verify what the dealer are saying. I did make sure I made ever effort to make sure the dealer knew I had a problem with this saw and I do not like how this saw runs as soon as it was possible to do so. That's why I took it in when it flood easily before I ever make one single cut, I saw a problem from the start! Yes the point of purchase that dealer needs to make it right. My next step I need run the saw and just take it back. Not ever having to deal with saw warranties I wasn't sure what I could do. Being a home owner and buying Stihl oil at time of purchase my warranty is good 2 years. I pretty much was in the thought once you buy a saw and run it...its yours a return was not possible, I never dreamed I would be here on a Stihl product. But thanks to everyone advice I'm hearing different. I did follow the advice given on my purchase of this saw and I don't think anyone was aware of this design change...I do think I'm going to have trouble getting my money back and I need to be careful I'm in compliant with the dealer request to a point. I appreciate everyone advice I'm sorry if I seem to not be listening...there is a lot of different thoughts on this. This indeed has been a learning curve, If I was to do this again. I would flat say this saw is not what I wanted and took it back or tried to force the hand. There was a design change ...they the dealer did not inform me this saw runs like this! A course I don't think either dealer really knew. I think this is all new to them also and a surprise to them as well as me. So, on that note taking the groups advice I'm going run the saw tonight and take it back tomorrow. I'm apologize if I offended anyone, that was not my intent. I do appreciate the advice...thank-you! I pretty much think you're all right and I'm not disagreeing. Bottom line I'm the one that going to be out the $1000 not this group...but I know everyone on this site that has responded does care and are trying to help me! THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!


The more time you put on it the more they can blame you dont run it at all! Is it past the 7 day satisfaction guarantee yet? did you read my post this morn at around 9.00, I called my Still dealer and he said you had 7 days for the satisfaction guarantee to bring it back. And since they claim nothing is wrong with it they cant say you seized it up with bad Ethanol gas,their standard excuse!


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## Cope1024 (Apr 1, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> The more time you put on it the more they can blame you dont run it at all! Is it past the 7 day satisfaction guarantee yet? did you read my post this morn at around 9.00, I called my Still dealer and he said you had 7 days for the satisfaction guarantee to bring it back. And since they claim nothing is wrong with it they cant say you seized it up with bad Ethanol gas,their standard excuse!



First post was 3/21/19, so he's past the 7 day period. Too bad he didn't know about this when he took it back to the selling dealer.


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## lone wolf (Apr 1, 2019)

Cope1024 said:


> First post was 3/21/19, so he's past the 7 day period. Too bad he didn't know about this when he took it back to the selling dealer.


Damn!


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 1, 2019)

Tracking back its been more than 7 days but a good dealer with say you brought it in within that time period with an issue and weren't 100% satisified...i guess this is why guys sometimes say good dealer support is the most important....you may prefer stihl over husqvarna or the other way around but after a bad experience you may switch...at the end of the day both brands work well (minus the occassional lemon such as in this case). Also i wouldn't compare it to an 034 super...even a well broken in 362 with 150psi compression i won't expect to cut stronger in a 12" plus log, i mean 362 is 59cc and an 034 super is 62cc of badness. kind of the same with 462 i just bought, doesn't feel that much lighter or stronger than my 044 10mm. i was even thinking of selling the 462 now, though the anti-vibe and air filtration is much better i do admit.


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## shadco (Apr 1, 2019)

Revisiting this thread is like deja vu all over again. 

.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 1, 2019)

I bet they haven’t called stihl. I call them every few months and never had them not want to help.


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## boltonranger (Apr 2, 2019)

I agree with Derrick. 
If the problem was noted within the 7 day period, and nothing has improved while the OP did his best to work with the Dealer, they ought to allow the return. The OP seems a good guy and has tried to work with the Dealers, but they have not done enough for him. This low compression, new design, low torque, high rpm business.... I don’t get. 
Is it a 60+ cc saw or not? Is 60cc the new 25cc?


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## James Sawyer (Apr 2, 2019)

Bad day yesterday...determine to run this saw, had heck of time getting up the hill, getting back to the house...not so good. Bottom line on this saw is it sucks...terrible to run! I don't want anymore to do with it taking it back, get out of it anyway I can. This saw is dangerous I would never fall with it after running it yesterday. Total frustration running it, you can't even cut firewood with it. I sure the clutch will burn up in a couple days of use, I had to stop and let the clutch cool down because it was smoking. The chain just stops dead, constantly having to shake out the saw to keep it cutting. Tested this on 15" Douglas Fir log and 23" Douglas fir log, the chain is constantly stopping, I could not keep the saw cutting no matter how hard I tried to baby it. The best I could do is keep is keep it cutting with only one stop on a 15" log, the norm would be 3-5 times the chain would flat stop. The RPM are all over the place you can't keep a constant cut speed. The saw is tuned at 13.4k and during a cut where you can keep the chain moving is 6.5k to 13K. The saw cuts the best if you can get it to run at 10K but that is nearly impossible for very long. Ran this with 25" bar bought with the saw, changed this to 20 bar with fresh ground FC chain. The 20" was better but pretty much ran about the same, Did most of my testing on the 15" log. I did run a full cut with the 20" bar on 23" log just to see how it would do under a full bar load...terrible same deal. At this point the saw going back I just don't want anymore to do with it nor do I care about the truth why this saw is like this and I don't want another MS362...it just that bad.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 2, 2019)

Did u run it before the oiler was swapped out? If clutch is smokin sounds like motor has power and the clutch and or spacer and bearing isn't installed correct


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## boltonranger (Apr 2, 2019)

I have to ask.
Any possibility the clutch is oil contaminated?
Doesn’t mitigate the low compression, but I just wondered about it.

And yes, I’d be returning it now regardless the answer.


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## AgTech4020 (Apr 2, 2019)

I’m really sorry to hear about how poorly your saw has performed for you. I have a MS362C that I am absolutely thrilled with. I Purchased mine as a very well used 2016 model year saw. It has 145 pounds of compression and is an absolute pleasure to run with a 20 inch Stihl light bar. I typically buy saws and flip them but this one is here to stay. It is quite honestly my go to felling saw. I hope your dealer will come through and get it straightened out for you.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 2, 2019)

No ...the clutch is NOT contaminated...I checked that last night when I cleaned up the saw pulled my bar and dwg. At this point I'm so discussed I really don't care what's wrong with the saw I just want out of this whole mess. The compression is so low, it doesn't have any power is my opinion. Yes I agree it has to have some power when the clutch slips but the saw just dogs down like your trying to run it with the brake on, it happens pretty fast before you can react almost every time. You can't even start a cut very well without it dogging down, you just have baby it into the cut. You have to keep the RPM high when you start and all the way thru the cut. I have to use a light hand listen to motor and lift up to keep it cutting... kind of shake out the saw and get the chain speed back up. That's why the RPM's are all over the place. It was a 15" Douglas Fir that been down for a year...my 034AV cuts thru this fine ...its not as fast but it doesn't stop and I don't have to baby it thru the cut using the same bar and chain. My 034 will cut that 15" round in 18-19sec. Best I can tell the 362 does it in 16-17 secs...it just hard to really gauge the time in the 362 cut because it stop so much and sometime it take a bit longer to get the chain going again. For the most part it stop 3-5 time in that 15" of wood. The log was cantilever over a big limb until I cut the last cookie so their was no bind on the rounds either on the 15" or the 23" log. The dang thing just bogs and stops...it doesn't bog like a fuel issue. It run running like rapped a ape then slows down bogs like the brake is on chain switch on...the chain totally stops. This saw would be fast if it would just run, its smooth, revs fast. I'm just done... I don't care what's wrong. I want this saw gone, I'm so discussed. I have lost all faith in Stihl's MS362 new design. After seeing another new saw off the shelf being at 110psi, I pretty much sure that how these new saws are. Especial all the kick back from the two shops I took this saw too. I don't need to run it any more, I've ran it enough now... its just flat terrible.


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## Ronaldo (Apr 2, 2019)

It's obvious something is wrong with your particular saw. I would not lump all MS 362's in the same performance level. It has nothing to do with a new design or 2nd gen engineering or any other lame excuses you have been told.....

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


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## NCPT (Apr 2, 2019)

Send the saw to a reputable builder. Saw will come back more powerful than a stock 362 and the builder can have a good look at what's wrong.....or just take it back and get a refund or trade in towards a 462.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 2, 2019)

NCPT said:


> Send the saw to a reputable builder. Saw will come back more powerful than a stock 362 and the builder can have a good look at what's wrong.....or just take it back and get a refund or trade in towards a 462.


Good money after bad while the saw is still under warranty? It would likely run $200 to get it done, bad idea.


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Good money after bad while the saw is still under warranty? It would likely run $200 to get it done, bad idea.


I would pull the damn muffler!


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## grizz55chev (Apr 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I would pull the damn muffler!


Lol, not sure why the muffler hasn’t been pulled yet?


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Lol, not sure why the muffler hasn’t been pulled yet?


He is afraid they wont honor the warranty! But you see the problem! They don't care. I think he should reach out to other dealers. But I would pull the muffler and try to not leave marks.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> He is afraid they wont honor the warranty! But you see the problem! They don't care. I think he should reach out to other dealers. But I would pull the muffler and try to not leave marks.


Been yrs since I bought a new saw, and I’ve never spent a grand on one. You and I would just pull it down and re-ring it, then cut wood, not everyone is ready to do that. I actually enjoy the challenge of finding out what’s wrong and correcting the problem, been that way since my early teens!


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Been yrs since I bought a new saw, and I’ve never spent a grand on one. You and I would just pull it down and re-ring it, then cut wood, not everyone is ready to do that. I actually enjoy the challenge of finding out what’s wrong and correcting the problem, been that way since my early teens!


What if it looks good in there? Then what ?


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## grizz55chev (Apr 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> What if it looks good in there? Then what ?


Check squish, put a Caber ring in it to try and bring the comp up, go from there. It’s not rocket science.


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Check squish, put a Caber ring in it to try and bring the comp up, go from there. It’s not rocket science.


Did he say if it had a comp release? I think it didnt?


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 2, 2019)

Keep diggin then check squish, pull muffler, soap around decomp valve and spark plug, check impulse and fuel lines and carb.....this is all good on a used saw u spent 300 on but a new one u just drop it off at the dealer, leave it there like the turd it is and demand a credit or call corporate office


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> Keep diggin then check squish, pull muffler, soap around decomp valve and spark plug, check impulse and fuel lines and carb.....this is all good on a used saw u spent 300 on but a new one u just drop it off at the dealer, leave it there like the turd it is and demand a credit or call corporate office


Lot of cash he spent!


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## TheStihlSlinger (Apr 2, 2019)

First post from a newbie here. 
Love the site and all the great info. 
I’ve been running a brand new 362 since mid January (Mtronic). 
Can’t say enough good things about it. 
Running a 25” bar in Canadian hardwood ( mostly sugar maple and hickory) even did a bit of milling with it. Lots of power and super reliable.


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## TheStihlSlinger (Apr 2, 2019)

Haven’t done a compression test but feels like lots on the pull cord.


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

TheStihlSlinger said:


> First post from a newbie here.
> Love the site and all the great info.
> I’ve been running a brand new 362 since mid January (Mtronic).
> Can’t say enough good things about it.
> Running a 25” bar in Canadian hardwood ( mostly sugar maple and hickory) even did a bit of milling with it. Lots of power and super reliable.


Sugar Maple in your Avatar right?


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

TheStihlSlinger said:


> Haven’t done a compression test but feels like lots on the pull cord.


Does it have the reg plug or the new smaller plug?


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## TheStihlSlinger (Apr 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Does it have the reg plug or the new smaller plug?


Yes to the sugar maple in my avatar. They get big around here. 
Not sure on the plug size. I’ll check in a couple hours when I get home.


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

TheStihlSlinger said:


> Yes to the sugar maple in my avatar. They get big around here.
> Not sure on the plug size. I’ll check in a couple hours when I get home.


If the small plug you need an adapter hose or different tester.


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## TheStihlSlinger (Apr 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> If the small plug you need an adapter hose or different tester.


Mine is the small plug. 
NGK CMR6H


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

TheStihlSlinger said:


> Mine is the small plug.
> NGK CMR6H


Do you have a gauge to fit that?


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## TheStihlSlinger (Apr 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Do you have a gauge to fit that?


No I don’t have the right gauge. 
The compression is high enough to suspend the weight of the saw full of fuel and oil with a 25” bar and chain off the pull cord. I realize that isn’t very accurate but I would think it has to be at least 150 or more to resist that much gravity


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

TheStihlSlinger said:


> No I don’t have the right gauge.
> The compression is high enough to suspend the weight of the saw full of fuel and oil with a 25” bar and chain off the pull cord. I realize that isn’t very accurate but I would think it has to be at least 150 or more to resist that much gravity


I bet is is way up.


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## shadco (Apr 2, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I would pull the damn muffler!



Well there is that.

I would also be asking to chat with someone from Corp.

.


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

shadco said:


> Well there is that.
> 
> I would also be asking to chat with someone from Corp.
> 
> .


I will go get he phone number!


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

*Contact STIHL*

STIHL Customer Service is open Monday – Friday 8 am until 8 pm Eastern time. Your email will be handled as quickly as possible within those hours. 

Phone Number: 1-800-467-8445


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## James Sawyer (Apr 2, 2019)

I'm pretty upset with this saw situation. So here's the deal, I'm over the 7 days so there is nothing the dealer I purchase the saw from can do. They told me my saw is fine, they ran it... all Stihl saws are like my saw period! All of Stihl NEW saws are 110psi on compression. They do not want to sell me another saw nor do they want my saw as a trade-in. Best they can do is call Stihl and forward my complaint and give them my information. They said my chain is aggressive, I said it's a 15" fir log and a 60cc saw it shouldn't be stopping in a cut, even with 20" bar and fresh never ran chain they ground. I asked why did they sell me a 25" bar with a FC chain if this saw won't run it...Nope...my saw is fine, they'll call Stihl...nothing they can do! I'm not a person that get upset easy...I was pretty hoping mad when I left. They acted like I'm don't know what I'm talking about or I have unreal expectation about this saw. They weren't mean about it... just plain blunt on the fact they aren't going to do anything but forward my information to Stihl and that I can deal with Stihl. It's dangerous as fall saw ...nope they think its just fine that it and I left. They would not admit the saw was stopping on them too.

So, I had about 25 mile on the drive home to cool off and I went into the 2nd shop and talk to the guy that worked on my saw. I asked him I just want out of this saw, he ran it and knows the saw...I don't want to deal with it anymore, what can he do as a trade-in on 462. He said the owner was out but he'd talk to him in the morning and see what they could do. I hope...I'm just out of this mess...so disappointed in this MS362. I felt a lot better after I left the 2nd shop. I not want 462 but I think that the best I can do on this situation...its a lot more saw then I need. He did say he's ran the new 462 and it runs hot won't slow down or stop in the cut. So if they will trade, I'll have them put my bar on it, pay what I have too... take the cut on this now used saw. I'll have the saw shop cut with the saw before I leave. Then I'm going to cut with it when I get home and hopeful I'm out of this MS362 ...guess I'm going see how much it going hurt to get out of this saw tomorrow. Hopeful I can get close to $600 out of the power head, I paid $839.95 for it with the bar and chain. But I think I'll be lucky to get that much, they would have to sell it as a used saw. I'm not sure how much time is on the hour meter now, but its less than 90 mins that for sure.

I guess Stihl will eventually call me at some point. I sure have some questions for them. I was just put to much faith in the Stihl product never dreamed this would be anything like this. Lesson learn if you buy a Stihl saw, make sure you run it right away, take it back in less than 7 days....the earlier the better. Don't let the shop tell you to take it home and run it some more. Don't put any add-on other than what on the receipt. Make sure they test the saw and fuel it full before you leave, I wouldn't put a drop of fuel it if you think there's a problem...take it back.


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I'm pretty upset with this saw situation. So here's the deal, I'm over the 7 days so there is nothing the dealer I purchase the saw from can do. They told me my saw is fine, they ran it... all Stihl saws are like my saw period! All of Stihl NEW saws are 110psi on compression. They do not want to sell me another saw nor do they want my saw as a trade-in. Best they can do is call Stihl and forward my complaint and give them my information. They said my chain is aggressive, I said it's a 15" fir log and a 60cc saw it shouldn't be stopping in a cut, even with 20" bar and fresh never ran chain they ground. I asked why did they sell me a 25" bar with a FC chain if this saw won't run it...Nope...my saw is fine, they'll call Stihl...nothing they can do! I'm not a person that get upset easy...I was pretty hoping mad when I left. They acted like I'm don't know what I'm talking about or I have unreal expectation about this saw. They weren't mean about it... just plain blunt on the fact they aren't going to do anything but forward my information to Stihl and that I can deal with Stihl. It's dangerous as fall saw ...nope they think its just fine that it and I left. They would not admit the saw was stopping on them too.
> 
> So, I had about 25 mile on the drive home to cool off and I went into the 2nd shop and talk to the guy that worked on my saw. I asked him I just want out of this saw, he ran it and knows the saw...I don't want to deal with it anymore, what can he do as a trade-in on 462. He said the owner was out but he'd talk to him in the morning and see what they could do. I hope...I'm just out of this mess...so disappointed in this MS362. I felt a lot better after I left the 2nd shop. I not want 462 but I think that the best I can do on this situation...its a lot more saw then I need. He did say he's ran the new 462 and it runs hot won't slow down or stop in the cut. So if they will trade, I'll have them put my bar on it, pay what I have too... take the cut on this now used saw. I'll have the saw shop cut with the saw before I leave. Then I'm going to cut with it when I get home and hopeful I'm out of this MS362 ...guess I'm going see how much it going hurt to get out of this saw tomorrow. Hopeful I can get close to $600 out of the power head, I paid $839.95 for it with the bar and chain. But I think I'll be lucky to get that much, they would have to sell it as a used saw. I'm not sure how much time is on the hour meter now, but its less than 90 mins that for sure.
> 
> I guess Stihl will eventually call me at some point. I sure have some questions for them. I was just put to much faith in the Stihl product never dreamed this would be anything like this. Lesson learn if you buy a Stihl saw, make sure you run it right away, take it back in less than 7 days....the earlier the better. Don't let the shop tell you to take it home and run it some more. Don't put any add-on other than what on the receipt. Make sure they test the saw and fuel it full before you leave, I wouldn't put a drop of fuel it if you think there's a problem...take it back.


I wish you would pull the muffler!!!!!!!!! Maybe it can be fixed cheaply! They are going to screw you good on trade!!!!!! Send me the damn thing and I will look at it and fix it free labor plus parts and shipping. Stop dealing with them car salesman!


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## NCPT (Apr 2, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Good money after bad while the saw is still under warranty? It would likely run $200 to get it done, bad idea.





James Sawyer said:


> I'm pretty upset with this saw situation. So here's the deal, I'm over the 7 days so there is nothing the dealer I purchase the saw from can do. They told me my saw is fine, they ran it... all Stihl saws are like my saw period! All of Stihl NEW saws are 110psi on compression. They do not want to sell me another saw nor do they want my saw as a trade-in. Best they can do is call Stihl and forward my complaint and give them my information. They said my chain is aggressive, I said it's a 15" fir log and a 60cc saw it shouldn't be stopping in a cut, even with 20" bar and fresh never ran chain they ground. I asked why did they sell me a 25" bar with a FC chain if this saw won't run it...Nope...my saw is fine, they'll call Stihl...nothing they can do! I'm not a person that get upset easy...I was pretty hoping mad when I left. They acted like I'm don't know what I'm talking about or I have unreal expectation about this saw. They weren't mean about it... just plain blunt on the fact they aren't going to do anything but forward my information to Stihl and that I can deal with Stihl. It's dangerous as fall saw ...nope they think its just fine that it and I left. They would not admit the saw was stopping on them too.
> 
> So, I had about 25 mile on the drive home to cool off and I went into the 2nd shop and talk to the guy that worked on my saw. I asked him I just want out of this saw, he ran it and knows the saw...I don't want to deal with it anymore, what can he do as a trade-in on 462. He said the owner was out but he'd talk to him in the morning and see what they could do. I hope...I'm just out of this mess...so disappointed in this MS362. I felt a lot better after I left the 2nd shop. I not want 462 but I think that the best I can do on this situation...its a lot more saw then I need. He did say he's ran the new 462 and it runs hot won't slow down or stop in the cut. So if they will trade, I'll have them put my bar on it, pay what I have too... take the cut on this now used saw. I'll have the saw shop cut with the saw before I leave. Then I'm going to cut with it when I get home and hopeful I'm out of this MS362 ...guess I'm going see how much it going hurt to get out of this saw tomorrow. Hopeful I can get close to $600 out of the power head, I paid $839.95 for it with the bar and chain. But I think I'll be lucky to get that much, they would have to sell it as a used saw. I'm not sure how much time is on the hour meter now, but its less than 90 mins that for sure.
> 
> I guess Stihl will eventually call me at some point. I sure have some questions for them. I was just put to much faith in the Stihl product never dreamed this would be anything like this. Lesson learn if you buy a Stihl saw, make sure you run it right away, take it back in less than 7 days....the earlier the better. Don't let the shop tell you to take it home and run it some more. Don't put any add-on other than what on the receipt. Make sure they test the saw and fuel it full before you leave, I wouldn't put a drop of fuel it if you think there's a problem...take it back.


Looks like hes gonna spend the extra anyways. I was just offering another option lol.


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## SEAM (Apr 2, 2019)

Why not address Stihl directly if the retailer is stalling? You may have to show some evidence, so shoot a video of the saw not performing as it should.
The first step for me would be an email with a link to this thread...

PS: The problem is not "the" MS362 but "your" MS362. Have it replaced!


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 2, 2019)

Since there has been a lot of discussion on compression, what is the proper adapter for these smaller spark plugs? I need one that has the schrader at the end of what screws into the spark plug hole. The one i have is an "empty adaptor" into the spark plug hole and then the schrader is on the hose that screws into that, so it won't read accurate due to the added air volume inside the adapter, which is also shorter than the spark plug so is already adding some volume to the combustion chamber.


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## Ryan_289 (Apr 2, 2019)

I work at a John Deere dealership but we do not carry Stihl. That being said, I have almost 20 years experience working at dealerships. IMO, the best thing you can do is go above the dealership and contact Stihl directly. I have seen multiple situations where warranty is not helping us as a dealer and when the customer called Deere direct, things got done. I have seen corporate warranty get worse and worse over the years, especially as the warranty periods get longer. They will find any way to deny claims to the dealer. Not saying Stihl is this way since I dont have experience with this particular company but I do have experience with multiple other brands of equipment.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## lone wolf (Apr 2, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> Since there has been a lot of discussion on compression, what is the proper adapter for these smaller spark plugs? I need one that has the schrader at the end of what screws into the spark plug hole. The one i have is an "empty adaptor" into the spark plug hole and then the schrader is on the hose that screws into that, so it won't read accurate due to the added air volume inside the adapter, which is also shorter than the spark plug so is already adding some volume to the combustion chamber.


I use a snap on gauge with the ten mil adapter hose! And you have to make sure the proper Scraeder valve is in that! I bought it new and had to change it! But now it works great.


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## farmer steve (Apr 3, 2019)

@James Sawyer. Jim here is a link. i would fill it out and forward to Stihl ASAP. I would put in the comment section that the saw poses a safety hazard in it's current condition and the dealer refuses to listen. https://www.stihlusa.com/information/corporate/contact-us/


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## drf255 (Apr 3, 2019)

I don’t get this entire thing. 

You did bring it back within 7 days. You were told it was “fine”. AFAIC, you are within the period and you were convinced not to return it.

I’m fairly certain that Stihl wouldn’t want this terrible publicity on there heads. I hope you did call them, an email with this link would be even better. 

I haven’t gone back, but I recall you saying it wasn’t any better than your 034. Looks like it beat your 034 through that 16” log though. Also, I see you’re out west, but why would your dealer install a 25” bar on a 58cc saw? That’s 70-80cc territory out here. 

Too bad you’re across the country. Shipping to me would be north of $100 round trip.


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## lone wolf (Apr 3, 2019)

drf255 said:


> I don’t get this entire thing.
> 
> You did bring it back within 7 days. You were told it was “fine”. AFAIC, you are within the period and you were convinced not to return it.
> 
> ...


If he did bring it back with in 7 days I suppose they are going to say he didn't ask for the satisfaction guarantee and to be rid of it! But great point to make to Stihl USA.


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## PGK1 (Apr 3, 2019)

Hopefully the second dealer you took your saw to will to a trade up for you, I picked up a 462 a few weeks ago. First new saw I had purchased in 25 years LOL I still have my old PM605 that runs like a top, the first thing I noticed when using the 462 is the way the new saws must be ported compared to the old ones. My old PM605 is a low end to mid range grunt saw this 462 like to be revved, mid range and high revs it absolutely rips. I haven't put enoughs hours on it yet to break in but so far I'm a happy camper. Let us know what they end up doing for you.

Pete


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## James Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

The saw was purchased Feb 14th.


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## CR888 (Apr 3, 2019)

Why won't the OP back out 4 T-27 muffler screws and see what's going on? Driving 25miles is hard work, 4 screws takes a minute. Sometimes when dealing with foolish dealers you need to get amongst it and arm yourself with some facts.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

Thanks everyone...here the deal I bought this saw in Feb of this year. I was nerves about the EPA so I wanted dynamic tach. I did a lot reviews on this saw before purchase and I knew about the oiler. I never dreamed this saw was this way or that it had gone thru a design change. The saw is spec. for a 25" bar at the max length. I had another saw shop order and install the oiler, the dog I bought from the same oiler shop and I had it powder coated, that took several week. When I got the tach I installed it in my spare time. I didn't know about the 7 days and a problem with any of Stihl product never crossed my mind. When I walked out of the store with my new saw, they tuned so if it had any problems with how it ran I assumed it would of showed up then. This shop has been there longer than I can remember, they run and tune saw every day...they cater to home owner not professional thou. Most professional go to the second shop I used and another one west of here...the one that got the oiler for me. I never even started this saw until I installed the tach...it flooded easily so I took it the next day, this all start from that day forward. They sent me home with my saw acted like I didn't know how to start a saw. The 1st tree I faced I was having problem with the saw stopping in the cut multiple times. It was more of the same on the back cut on that tree. I thought so it new maybe needs bit more running time. I cut off the butt and move to the next tree. I had keep a bit of hold wood to turn this tree an keep it in the lay. That tree like the other was going before I could cut up to the hinge. I've done this with lots of saw never had one just stop like that with out a bind. Cutting a face doesn't bind the saw, nor does cutting firewood if the log is supported behind the cut. On a FC chain if the sap is running the chip load can sometime bind up or load the cut because the chips can't clear...this is not the case on my cuts. So... I don't agree with these shops. Its a 60cc saw it should cut a 15" round without stopping in a fir log period. My 25+ year old landing 034av does no problem...I ran it on the same 15" log several time and it consistently cut it with in 1 sec of each cut. These shop can say what the want but I know this is not right. I couldn't really get accurate cut count on this MS362 its just all over the place. I ask the group would you be happy with a saw that can't even cut firewood... I'm not trying to be dishonest about anything regarding this saw but that 1st shop is saying that how these new saws run and I feel the second shop is saying the same thing. Its not a warranty issue its a design issue is what I'm getting and I have unreal expectations period.


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## bigbadbob (Apr 3, 2019)

James there a lots of members on here and the other sites that live in Oregon,, gotta be someone close by that will pull the muffler and do a comp check for you.
Something is wrong with that saw.
Yer not helping by being stubborn on the above,,,,
IMHO


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## Cope1024 (Apr 3, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Thanks everyone...here the deal I bought this saw in Feb of this year. I was nerves about the EPA so I wanted dynamic tach. I did a lot reviews on this saw before purchase and I knew about the oiler. I never dreamed this saw was this way or that it had gone thru a design change. The saw is spec. for a 25" bar at the max length. I had another saw shop order and install the oiler, the dog I bought from the same oiler shop and I had it powder coated, that took several week. When I got the tach I installed it in my spare time. I didn't know about the 7 days and a problem with any of Stihl product never crossed my mind. When I walked out of the store with my new saw, they tuned so if it had any problems with how it ran I assumed it would of showed up then. This shop has been there longer than I can remember, they run and tune saw every day...they cater to home owner not professional thou. Most professional go to the second shop I used and another one west of here...the one that got the oiler for me. I never even started this saw until I installed the tach...it flooded easily so I took it the next day, this all start from that day forward. They sent me home with my saw acted like I didn't know how to start a saw. The 1st tree I faced I was having problem with the saw stopping in the cut multiple times. It was more of the same on the back cut on that tree. I thought so it new maybe needs bit more running time. I cut off the butt and move to the next tree. I had keep a bit of hold wood to turn this tree an keep it in the lay. That tree like the other was going before I could cut up to the hinge. I've done this with lots of saw never had one just stop like that with out a bind. Cutting a face doesn't bind the saw, nor does cutting firewood if the log is supported behind the cut. On a FC chain if the sap is running the chip load can sometime bind up or load the cut because the chips can't clear...this is not the case on my cuts. So... I don't agree with these shops. Its a 60cc saw it should cut a 15" round without stopping in a fir log period. My 25+ year old landing 034av does no problem...I ran it on the same 15" log several time and it consistently cut it with in 1 sec of each cut. These shop can say what the want but I know this is not right. I couldn't really get accurate cut count on this MS362 its just all over the place. I ask the group would you be happy with a saw that can't even cut firewood... I'm not trying to be dishonest about anything regarding this saw but that 1st shop is saying that how these new saws run and I feel the second shop is saying the same thing. Its not a warranty issue its a design issue is what I'm getting and I have unreal expectations period.



James, I agree with you about the low power; my 2015 MS362CM got stronger as I used it, but I cut plenty of 16" Oak with it from new to break it is, and it never hesitated. I think you need to take it back somewhere and get either a refund or a new saw.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

bigbadbob said:


> James there a lots of members on here and the other sites that live in Oregon,, gotta be someone close by that will pull the muffler and do a comp check for you.
> Something is wrong with that saw.
> Yer not helping by being stubborn on the above,,,,
> IMHO




Thanks... my readings and both of the shops reading are the same on the compression it's 120psi cold and 110 hot. The 2nd shop ran 4 test after running the saw each time with different gauges. We could have 100 people run a compression test it not going to change...it is what it is...it was design that way. The cylinder is perfect as are the rings I did look plus I dropped a camera in the cylinder...that's no longer the issue. I'm being told this is the design...this saw run to the design intended. So, the issue is the saw can not pull the chip load on a 15" cut. I'm saying it's absolutely NOT a binding issue related to an operator error. The saw is under powered and stopping due to chip load plan and simple. That not what Stihl is saying or the shops they won't admit to that but that is exactly what is happening if you think about it. I can't solve this problem with this low of compression is all I'm saying and have been says! The shop will not admit to that in anyway, the only reason I know this is related to the design is that what both shops are saying...its the design. Unless someone can do a load test on this saw it will bench test perfect. This isn't a warranty issue as I see it from what both shops are saying...not much choice I have with that. There is 2 request in to Stihl one from the shop of purchase and another member. The 2nd shop hasn't call either so not a good sign. I'm not trying to be difficult or stubborn or hopeful I'm listening carefully. I was concern about the warranty but at this point there is no warranty as I see it. I ran 1/4 drag boats both hydro and flat...I know how to make a motor run...this is not new to me. You can run a motor on low compression is all has to do with the fuel charge being compressed...that's how blower or turbo work. As the piston start moving fuel thru the port it take a moment to get it moving once the fuel is moving it doesn't want to stop right away. Even as the port is closing ...the fuel is still moving thou the port as it is being restricted. That how old school cam's work they hold the valve open even thou the piston is coming up to getting that last extra charge in the cylinder. The more fuel charge in the cylinder the harder it is to compress...so I believe this is what they are saying...the two shops. These shop will not admit to this .. fact I'm not sure what there understanding is. I have not talked to the factory, they have not contacted me but I've thought about this seriously. As I see it, I can attempt to fix the saw maybe over come the design issue...throw more money after bad. I can't get either shop to support me...why would Stihl? Or I can cut my losses and get another saw and recover some of my cost. Pretty much that is my options as I see it at this point. There is nothing wrong with the cylinder or piston...both shops are saying the same thing...that all they're saying. The shop of purchase is saying I'm on my own... so you have think about it from the shop point...its not a warranty! The shop of purchase is saying I have unreasonable expectation from this saw...its operator error...plain and simple. They will not admit they themselves are seeing the same problems as me...I was standing right next to them when they tested. The 2nd shop admits the saw is stopping in the cut, but nothing as to why other than it design...period. Its pretty clear from my point not much you can do with that. I'm not trying to get people upset or not showing I don't care about the advice but I'm looking at it from both sides. I don't have blinders on...bottom line its coming out of my pocket I'm more upset than anyone. Getting rid of the saw is the only way I'm going to come out of this with anything as I see it. I do hope Stihl call because I do have a lot of questions, I honestly don't think the factory can address this issue...it was designed this way.


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## lone wolf (Apr 3, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Thanks... my readings and both of the shops reading are the same on the compression it's 120psi cold and 110 hot. The 2nd shop ran 4 test after running the saw each time with different gauges. We could have 100 people run a compression test it not going to change...it is what it is...it was design that way. The cylinder is perfect as are the rings I did look plus I dropped a camera in the cylinder...that's no longer the issue. I'm being told this is the design...this saw run to the design intended. So, the issue is the saw can not pull the chip load on a 15" cut. I'm saying it's absolutely NOT a binding issue related to an operator error. The saw is under powered and stopping due to chip load plan and simple. That not what Stihl is saying or the shops they won't admit to that but that is exactly what is happening if you think about it. I can't solve this problem with this low of compression is all I'm saying and have been says! The shop will not admit to that in anyway, the only reason I know this is related to the design is that what both shops are saying...its the design. Unless someone can do a load test on this saw it will bench test perfect. This isn't a warranty issue as I see it from what both shops are saying...not much choice I have with that. There is 2 request in to Stihl one from the shop of purchase and another member. The 2nd shop hasn't call either so not a good sign. I'm not trying to be difficult or stubborn or hopeful I'm listening carefully. I was concern about the warranty but at this point there is no warranty as I see it. I ran 1/4 drag boats both hydro and flat...I know how to make a motor run...this is not new to me. You can run a motor on low compression is all has to do with the fuel charge being compressed...that's how blower or turbo work. As the piston start moving fuel thru the port it take a moment to get it moving once the fuel is moving it doesn't want to stop right away. Even as the port is closing ...the fuel is still moving thou the port as it is being restricted. That how old school cam's work they hold the valve open even thou the piston is coming up to getting that last extra charge in the cylinder. The more fuel charge in the cylinder the harder it is to compress...so I believe this is what they are saying...the two shops. These shop will not admit to this .. fact I'm not sure what there understanding is. I have not talked to the factory, they have not contacted me but I've thought about this seriously. As I see it, I can attempt to fix the saw maybe over come the design issue...throw more money after bad. I can't get either shop to support me...why would Stihl? Or I can cut my losses and get another saw and recover some of my cost. Pretty much that is my options as I see it at this point. There is nothing wrong with the cylinder or piston...both shops are saying the same thing...that all they're saying. The shop of purchase is saying I'm on my own... so you have think about it from the shop point...its not a warranty! The shop of purchase is saying I have unreasonable expectation from this saw...its operator error...plain and simple. They will not admit they themselves are seeing the same problems as me...I was standing right next to them when they tested. The 2nd shop admits the saw is stopping in the cut, but nothing as to why other than it design...period. Its pretty clear from my point not much you can do with that. I'm not trying to get people upset or not showing I don't care about the advice but I'm looking at it from both sides. I don't have blinders on...bottom line its coming out of my pocket I'm more upset than anyone. Getting rid of the saw is the only way I'm going to come out of this with anything as I see it. I do hope Stihl call because I do have a lot of questions, I honestly don't think the factory can address this issue...it was designed this way.


Cant be a new design they are lying, if it is a new design they will go out of business ! You need another saw made that style with the same date of manufacture to check the compression on it to prove the BS, then what can they say?


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

Bottom line is the dealer should make sure you are satisfied, i'm sure there are other demo saws you can try and cut with there. If there is nothing wrong with the saw, then they shouldn't have a problem selling it used. I would avoid going to a dealer who usually only has lower end saws, go to the pro one. I don't know exactly what is wrong with your saw (compression, fuel, ignition, timing, etc), but there is something messed up beyond what i have experienced myself (see below).

Here are some of my personal observations with these new saws: they run like turd when new and bog down easy compared to older ones or freshly rebuilt older ones. they take a lot tanks to break in and after some time, you suddenly realized they are cutting well. they run hotter and seem louder to me, prob cuz they run higher rpm to cut well). the new small plug is annoying, my almost new 462 with 3 tanks in and base gasket delete shows 120psi compression since i don't have an adaptor with the schrader valve in it (but rather the valve is in the hose that screws into the adapter) so there is more air volume there to compress, so i have to order a snap-on hose to screw in directly so the schrader valve is in the cylinder (10mm x 1.0, part EEPV5G10L) but i can tell by pulling its got at least 150psi since my 044 fresh rebuild has that compression (no adaptor needed). Doesn anyone know the advantages of the new style 10mm plug?


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## TheStihlSlinger (Apr 3, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Thanks... my readings and both of the shops reading are the same on the compression it's 120psi cold and 110 hot. The 2nd shop ran 4 test after running the saw each time with different gauges. We could have 100 people run a compression test it not going to change...it is what it is...it was design that way. The cylinder is perfect as are the rings I did look plus I dropped a camera in the cylinder...that's no longer the issue. I'm being told this is the design...this saw run to the design intended. So, the issue is the saw can not pull the chip load on a 15" cut. I'm saying it's absolutely NOT a binding issue related to an operator error. The saw is under powered and stopping due to chip load plan and simple. That not what Stihl is saying or the shops they won't admit to that but that is exactly what is happening if you think about it. I can't solve this problem with this low of compression is all I'm saying and have been says! The shop will not admit to that in anyway, the only reason I know this is related to the design is that what both shops are saying...its the design. Unless someone can do a load test on this saw it will bench test perfect. This isn't a warranty issue as I see it from what both shops are saying...not much choice I have with that. There is 2 request in to Stihl one from the shop of purchase and another member. The 2nd shop hasn't call either so not a good sign. I'm not trying to be difficult or stubborn or hopeful I'm listening carefully. I was concern about the warranty but at this point there is no warranty as I see it. I ran 1/4 drag boats both hydro and flat...I know how to make a motor run...this is not new to me. You can run a motor on low compression is all has to do with the fuel charge being compressed...that's how blower or turbo work. As the piston start moving fuel thru the port it take a moment to get it moving once the fuel is moving it doesn't want to stop right away. Even as the port is closing ...the fuel is still moving thou the port as it is being restricted. That how old school cam's work they hold the valve open even thou the piston is coming up to getting that last extra charge in the cylinder. The more fuel charge in the cylinder the harder it is to compress...so I believe this is what they are saying...the two shops. These shop will not admit to this .. fact I'm not sure what there understanding is. I have not talked to the factory, they have not contacted me but I've thought about this seriously. As I see it, I can attempt to fix the saw maybe over come the design issue...throw more money after bad. I can't get either shop to support me...why would Stihl? Or I can cut my losses and get another saw and recover some of my cost. Pretty much that is my options as I see it at this point. There is nothing wrong with the cylinder or piston...both shops are saying the same thing...that all they're saying. The shop of purchase is saying I'm on my own... so you have think about it from the shop point...its not a warranty! The shop of purchase is saying I have unreasonable expectation from this saw...its operator error...plain and simple. They will not admit they themselves are seeing the same problems as me...I was standing right next to them when they tested. The 2nd shop admits the saw is stopping in the cut, but nothing as to why other than it design...period. Its pretty clear from my point not much you can do with that. I'm not trying to get people upset or not showing I don't care about the advice but I'm looking at it from both sides. I don't have blinders on...bottom line its coming out of my pocket I'm more upset than anyone. Getting rid of the saw is the only way I'm going to come out of this with anything as I see it. I do hope Stihl call because I do have a lot of questions, I honestly don't think the factory can address this issue...it was designed this way.


A camera through the plug hole doesn’t tell you whether you have a bad or missing ring on the piston. At this point you have nothing to lose by taking off the outer cover of the muffler. You don’t even need to take the whole muffler off. It is just a wide open box inside, no baffle or anything. 
4 screws / 2 mins. and you know for sure.


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## TheStihlSlinger (Apr 3, 2019)

Sorry. Just reread your last post and realized you already had a look at the rings.


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## TheStihlSlinger (Apr 3, 2019)

I can tell you not all 362 are bad saws. I have at least 60 hrs of run time on mine in the last couple months and it has been a real little powerhouse since brand new. Took about 8 or 9 tanks of fuel to get broken in and hasn’t missed a beat.


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## Bwildered (Apr 3, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Thanks... my readings and both of the shops reading are the same on the compression it's 120psi cold and 110 hot. The 2nd shop ran 4 test after running the saw each time with different gauges. We could have 100 people run a compression test it not going to change...it is what it is...it was design that way. The cylinder is perfect as are the rings I did look plus I dropped a camera in the cylinder...that's no longer the issue. I'm being told this is the design...this saw run to the design intended. So, the issue is the saw can not pull the chip load on a 15" cut. I'm saying it's absolutely NOT a binding issue related to an operator error. The saw is under powered and stopping due to chip load plan and simple. That not what Stihl is saying or the shops they won't admit to that but that is exactly what is happening if you think about it. I can't solve this problem with this low of compression is all I'm saying and have been says! The shop will not admit to that in anyway, the only reason I know this is related to the design is that what both shops are saying...its the design. Unless someone can do a load test on this saw it will bench test perfect. This isn't a warranty issue as I see it from what both shops are saying...not much choice I have with that. There is 2 request in to Stihl one from the shop of purchase and another member. The 2nd shop hasn't call either so not a good sign. I'm not trying to be difficult or stubborn or hopeful I'm listening carefully. I was concern about the warranty but at this point there is no warranty as I see it. I ran 1/4 drag boats both hydro and flat...I know how to make a motor run...this is not new to me. You can run a motor on low compression is all has to do with the fuel charge being compressed...that's how blower or turbo work. As the piston start moving fuel thru the port it take a moment to get it moving once the fuel is moving it doesn't want to stop right away. Even as the port is closing ...the fuel is still moving thou the port as it is being restricted. That how old school cam's work they hold the valve open even thou the piston is coming up to getting that last extra charge in the cylinder. The more fuel charge in the cylinder the harder it is to compress...so I believe this is what they are saying...the two shops. These shop will not admit to this .. fact I'm not sure what there understanding is. I have not talked to the factory, they have not contacted me but I've thought about this seriously. As I see it, I can attempt to fix the saw maybe over come the design issue...throw more money after bad. I can't get either shop to support me...why would Stihl? Or I can cut my losses and get another saw and recover some of my cost. Pretty much that is my options as I see it at this point. There is nothing wrong with the cylinder or piston...both shops are saying the same thing...that all they're saying. The shop of purchase is saying I'm on my own... so you have think about it from the shop point...its not a warranty! The shop of purchase is saying I have unreasonable expectation from this saw...its operator error...plain and simple. They will not admit they themselves are seeing the same problems as me...I was standing right next to them when they tested. The 2nd shop admits the saw is stopping in the cut, but nothing as to why other than it design...period. Its pretty clear from my point not much you can do with that. I'm not trying to get people upset or not showing I don't care about the advice but I'm looking at it from both sides. I don't have blinders on...bottom line its coming out of my pocket I'm more upset than anyone. Getting rid of the saw is the only way I'm going to come out of this with anything as I see it. I do hope Stihl call because I do have a lot of questions, I honestly don't think the factory can address this issue...it was designed this way.


Swap the bar & chain off your other saw & see how it goes, it sounds like there's nothing wrong with the saw as it tested the same as another off the shelf with the same gauge.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

Ok just for the interest of other...I'm listening. I call Stihl and spoke with John in support. The saw was designed to run at 110psi... Stihl spec this at that compression for this new design. Yes the new design MS362 (10mm plug) saw should pull a 15" chip load with a FC chain. The are not saying anything regarding a warranty I told them about the oiler, tach etc. . Support is not saying i don't have a problem but they ARE NOT saying I do either. Pretty much the same as the shops are saying! Support is saying the MS362 should pull a 15" chip load with a FC chain without stopping. JD is the guy managing the Pacific Northwest for Stihl and John gave me his number. John can't help me... I need to talk to JD. John was very honest and straight forward I enjoyed talking to him...he totally got my issue. I left a message for JD he is out of the office until April 5th. That is probably why I'm not getting a call. I'm guess it'll be a while before I get a call due to the volume he'll have on his return. So...my thought as well as the shops are saying ... ALL the other MS362 (new design) are going to run this way. My saw compression is to spec, it's tune correct that I know, My cylinder is good that I know! Fuel, compression, Ignition all to spec that I know...not much to say after that. This is why I'm saying what I'm saying... if I sent this saw to Stihl and its to there spec what can they do...this is the cold truth to the matter. But for the interest of other I will wait until I talk to JD...I just hate for anyone who's looking at buying a small plug MS362 carb. saw and go thru all this. The only way this saw can product 4.5hp at low compress is to increase the fuel charge in the cylinder, John understood what I was saying but would not confirm either. Math is Math 4.5 hp is the rate of work the saw can do as it is spec. I don't believe it but I do believe this saw will bench test to spec without a load. Its pretty hard to describe how I feel right now but I really didn't learn much more than I already knew. Let see what JD has to say. Again...thanks everyone, I do appreciate the advice it all has been good and helpful.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> Bottom line is the dealer should make sure you are satisfied, i'm sure there are other demo saws you can try and cut with there. If there is nothing wrong with the saw, then they shouldn't have a problem selling it used. I would avoid going to a dealer who usually only has lower end saws, go to the pro one. I don't know exactly what is wrong with your saw (compression, fuel, ignition, timing, etc), but there is something messed up beyond what i have experienced myself (see below).
> 
> Here are some of my personal observations with these new saws: they run like turd when new and bog down easy compared to older ones or freshly rebuilt older ones. they take a lot tanks to break in and after some time, you suddenly realized they are cutting well. they run hotter and seem louder to me, prob cuz they run higher rpm to cut well). the new small plug is annoying, my almost new 462 with 3 tanks in and base gasket delete shows 120psi compression since i don't have an adaptor with the schrader valve in it (but rather the valve is in the hose that screws into the adapter) so there is more air volume there to compress, so i have to order a snap-on hose to screw in directly so the schrader valve is in the cylinder (10mm x 1.0, part EEPV5G10L) but i can tell by pulling its got at least 150psi since my 044 fresh rebuild has that compression (no adaptor needed). Doesn anyone know the advantages of the new style 10mm plug?



yes...heat. they add more cooling fins too


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## James Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

TheStihlSlinger said:


> A camera through the plug hole doesn’t tell you whether you have a bad or missing ring on the piston. At this point you have nothing to lose by taking off the outer cover of the muffler. You don’t even need to take the whole muffler off. It is just a wide open box inside, no baffle or anything.
> 4 screws / 2 mins. and you know for sure.



Yes I'm aware there is no way to totally say a cylinder/piston is good with out pulling the exhaust. But the tell-tell signs usually are at the exhaust port. Stihl has the ring ends between the transfer and the intake...so there is no way of telling if the ring got broke unless you pull the cylinder. But you can see the cylinder wall from the exhaust and tell if there is problem in this area. The cylinder and piston are good I can assure you!


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## James Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

Bwildered said:


> Swap the bar & chain off your other saw & see how it goes, it sounds like there's nothing wrong with the saw as it tested the same as another off the shelf with the same gauge.


I did I switch to 20" bar and chain...cuts almost same... chip loads just as much and stop just as much. The bar length doesn't make a different, both the 25" and 20" chains are FC. There might be some different in the riders from the 20" to the 25" but the chains seem to cut almost exactly the same. The 20 was a re-grind, the 25" brand new chain. The saw runs the same regardless of the bar length. Seriously the saw is stopping because it can't pull the variation in the chip load.


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## lone wolf (Apr 3, 2019)

Bwildered said:


> Swap the bar & chain off your other saw & see how it goes, it sounds like there's nothing wrong with the saw as it tested the same as another off the shelf with the same gauge.


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## farmer steve (Apr 3, 2019)

I have about 10 tanks on my 462. Small plug. Thing rips. @James Miller ran it today and said it could be a 1 saw plan. I can't believe your saw wont.. pull a 20" bar but I believe you. Definite problem. We were cutting and noodling oak today.


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## lone wolf (Apr 3, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Thanks... my readings and both of the shops reading are the same on the compression it's 120psi cold and 110 hot. The 2nd shop ran 4 test after running the saw each time with different gauges. We could have 100 people run a compression test it not going to change...it is what it is...it was design that way. The cylinder is perfect as are the rings I did look plus I dropped a camera in the cylinder...that's no longer the issue. I'm being told this is the design...this saw run to the design intended. So, the issue is the saw can not pull the chip load on a 15" cut. I'm saying it's absolutely NOT a binding issue related to an operator error. The saw is under powered and stopping due to chip load plan and simple. That not what Stihl is saying or the shops they won't admit to that but that is exactly what is happening if you think about it. I can't solve this problem with this low of compression is all I'm saying and have been says! The shop will not admit to that in anyway, the only reason I know this is related to the design is that what both shops are saying...its the design. Unless someone can do a load test on this saw it will bench test perfect. This isn't a warranty issue as I see it from what both shops are saying...not much choice I have with that. There is 2 request in to Stihl one from the shop of purchase and another member. The 2nd shop hasn't call either so not a good sign. I'm not trying to be difficult or stubborn or hopeful I'm listening carefully. I was concern about the warranty but at this point there is no warranty as I see it. I ran 1/4 drag boats both hydro and flat...I know how to make a motor run...this is not new to me. You can run a motor on low compression is all has to do with the fuel charge being compressed...that's how blower or turbo work. As the piston start moving fuel thru the port it take a moment to get it moving once the fuel is moving it doesn't want to stop right away. Even as the port is closing ...the fuel is still moving thou the port as it is being restricted. That how old school cam's work they hold the valve open even thou the piston is coming up to getting that last extra charge in the cylinder. The more fuel charge in the cylinder the harder it is to compress...so I believe this is what they are saying...the two shops. These shop will not admit to this .. fact I'm not sure what there understanding is. I have not talked to the factory, they have not contacted me but I've thought about this seriously. As I see it, I can attempt to fix the saw maybe over come the design issue...throw more money after bad. I can't get either shop to support me...why would Stihl? Or I can cut my losses and get another saw and recover some of my cost. Pretty much that is my options as I see it at this point. There is nothing wrong with the cylinder or piston...both shops are saying the same thing...that all they're saying. The shop of purchase is saying I'm on my own... so you have think about it from the shop point...its not a warranty! The shop of purchase is saying I have unreasonable expectation from this saw...its operator error...plain and simple. They will not admit they themselves are seeing the same problems as me...I was standing right next to them when they tested. The 2nd shop admits the saw is stopping in the cut, but nothing as to why other than it design...period. Its pretty clear from my point not much you can do with that. I'm not trying to get people upset or not showing I don't care about the advice but I'm looking at it from both sides. I don't have blinders on...bottom line its coming out of my pocket I'm more upset than anyone. Getting rid of the saw is the only way I'm going to come out of this with anything as I see it. I do hope Stihl call because I do have a lot of questions, I honestly don't think the factory can address this issue...it was designed this way.


I find it all hard to believe on their end!


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## James Sawyer (Apr 3, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I find it all hard to believe on their end!



Me too wish you all could run this saw, I can't believe it either. I've been thinking about this today and talking to my boss. I'm wondering if this design is due to a EPA requirements on the product line. EPA has restriction on products not all the line has to meet the numbers but other product have to make up the different. Please Don't Get This Wrong I do not know this...just thinking it. I did search out the MS362 prior and it has had great reviews...my saw isn't what others are saying it preforms like. The other shop hasn't call me today so I'm assuming they have a call into JD for their own interest. I'm going to sit on my saw until I get a chance to talk to him.


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## Deleted member 149229 (Apr 3, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> I have about 10 tanks on my 462. Small plug. Thing rips. @James Miller ran it today and said it could be a 1 saw plan. I can't believe your saw wont.. pull a 20" bar but I believe you. Definite problem. We were cutting and noodling oak today.


You explain to James what a spark screen was. I have a bunch on the workbench if he needs one.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 3, 2019)

It could be just the 362 carb models. The 362 m-tronic 10mm had 155psi.


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## lone wolf (Apr 3, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> It could be just the 362 carb models. The 362 m-tronic 10mm had 155psi.


Isn't the MTron newer? I would think the new stuff would be EPA tampered! I still don't believe 120 to be any good!


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 3, 2019)

Theres a option to get either one. 
Most places only carry the 
ms362c m-tronic model. 
I have no personal input on the carb model.


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## SEAM (Apr 3, 2019)

120 psi is borderline low... I had a well-used 272 barely running and idling that measured 90 psi. A new ring brought her up to 120 psi and the compression may have gone up a little after that, but it did not turn the saw into something I would use regularly .
Another thought: Would the non-M-Tronic MS362 have a mechanically activated auto decomp system opposed to an electronically controlled one in the M-Tronic version? That would explain the psi difference.
Who adjusted the carb? Or, is the carb set properly?


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## Colt Marlington (Apr 3, 2019)

Jist thankin out loud....Shop rag hangin out the gas tank for a fuse?


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## lone wolf (Apr 3, 2019)

Colt Marlington said:


> Jist thankin out loud....Shop rag hangin out the gas tank for a fuse?


Be nice to figure all this out and rip it apart!


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## dmb2613 (Apr 3, 2019)

I wish I could get hold of that saw. I would bet big money I could fix it or get Stihl to replace it. I have never had them not satisfy a customer or me. It may be as simple as the impulse line is loose , I have had that to happen before on new saws.


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## SteveSr (Apr 3, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> It could be just the 362 carb models. The 362 m-tronic 10mm had 155psi.


Interesting thought...

An M-tronic saw can tune and "protect" itself with the computer whereas the carb saw cannot. What is the possibility that Stihl "detuned" the carb models to add some more "operating/protection" margin to the carb version? Anyone care to hunt through recent IPLs to see if they can find any piston, cylinder, base gasket, etc differences between the M-tronic and carb versions. As someone already pointed out Stihl modified the cylinder to add more cooling as they may not have had enough margin (to prevent melt-downs) to begin with.

I recall an earlier post in which a tree service was burning up 362s left and right. Never did hear a root cause or resolution.


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## huskihl (Apr 3, 2019)

If your warranty is non-existent anyway, I'd send it off to @Chainsaw Jim for porting. It'll come back with whatever kind of compression you want. You're gonna have more invested in headache and heart attack medicine than the cost of a port job


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

The cylinders between the two model are the same is my understanding. The new Mtronic has the same plug. That easy to verify thou. Install height gauge bring it to TDC and cc the cylinder with oil. It'll give to the volume at combustion. I'm sure they are the same. I'm thinking all the 362 are the same a new or different cylinder isn't going to change anything. Support is saying that , both saw shops are saying that. Unloaded the saw , it runs perfect...put in wood it stalls and chain plain stops at times . Light hand or not you cant prevent it from stalling. In the cut, the kerf isn't changing the chip load is the only variable. The energy with the saw changes with the rpm. It was designed to run on high RPM. The load builds up , the saw slow down the saw producing less power and chain just stop like I throw the brake on. So I was reading someone brought up the clutch I should have thought about that more...does anyone know how the quick stop works? How can you tell if my saw has it. How is it adjusted. When I pulled my oiled I didn't see anything different about the Breaking system. The clutch , bearing and drum looked normal.


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## farmer steve (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> The cylinders between the two model are the same is my understanding. The new Mtronic has the same plug. That easy to verify thou. Install height gauge bring it to TDC and cc the cylinder with oil. It'll give to the volume at combustion. I'm sure they are the same. I'm thinking all the 362 are the same a new or different cylinder isn't going to change anything. Support is saying that , both saw shops are saying that. Unloaded the saw , it runs perfect...put in wood it stalls and chain plain stops at times . Light hand or not you cant prevent it from stalling. In the cut, the kerf isn't changing the chip load is the only variable. The energy with the saw changes with the rpm. It was designed to run on high RPM. The load builds up , the saw slow down the saw producing less power and chain just stop like I throw the brake on. So I was reading someone brought up the clutch I should have thought about that more...does anyone know how the quick stop works? How can you tell if my saw has it. How is it adjusted. When I pulled my oiled I didn't see anything different about the Breaking system. The clutch , bearing and drum looked normal.


i forget who posted about the clutch earlier but i think you need to look at the clutch and chain brake. this is the straight 362 correct?


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## farmer steve (Apr 4, 2019)

drf255 said:


> I don’t get this entire thing.
> 
> You did bring it back within 7 days. You were told it was “fine”. AFAIC, you are within the period and you were convinced not to return it.
> 
> ...


I read the owners manual for the 362 and 20 " is the max recomended bar length. Iv'e run a 25 0n my 036 a few times but not for all day cutting.


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## farmer steve (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> The cylinders between the two model are the same is my understanding. The new Mtronic has the same plug. That easy to verify thou. Install height gauge bring it to TDC and cc the cylinder with oil. It'll give to the volume at combustion. I'm sure they are the same. I'm thinking all the 362 are the same a new or different cylinder isn't going to change anything. Support is saying that , both saw shops are saying that. Unloaded the saw , it runs perfect...put in wood it stalls and chain plain stops at times . Light hand or not you cant prevent it from stalling. In the cut, the kerf isn't changing the chip load is the only variable. The energy with the saw changes with the rpm. It was designed to run on high RPM. The load builds up , the saw slow down the saw producing less power and chain just stop like I throw the brake on. So I was reading someone brought up the clutch I should have thought about that more...does anyone know how the quick stop works? How can you tell if my saw has it. How is it adjusted. When I pulled my oiled I didn't see anything different about the Breaking system. The clutch , bearing and drum looked normal.


page 2 of this manual on the quickstop. after i read about this i'm wondering if this could affect operation of the saw if it was not working properly?
https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...IHL-MS-362-C-MQ-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf


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## cuinrearview (Apr 4, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> page 2 of this manual on the quickstop. after i read about this i'm wondering if this could affect operation of the saw if it was not working properly?
> https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...IHL-MS-362-C-MQ-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf


There's also that whole 110psi thing...


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## farmer steve (Apr 4, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> There's also that whole 110psi thing...


stabbing in the dark here. i do think the saw needs more run time. my 462 is waking up after running a bunch. i was wondering after the first tank but way better now.


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## drf255 (Apr 4, 2019)

There’s something wrong with the saw. Hopefully Stihl USA with help un-screw you a bit. 

“High RPM” cutting is a load of shít. BHP rating is torque x rpm/5252 like every other damn saw. Saws generally hold a certain RPM in the cut. If you have to lift the saw so it won’t stall, it simply is low on power, period. Having to hold a saw up off the bar so the chain will spin means you don’t have the power to pull that chain. 

Not sure what else to say. I can’t see Stihl forcing themselves out of the market by producing a dud because of EPA regulations. In the past, they made mods to keep saw power up as the rules became more stringent. 

Case in point, the MS260. When the EPA grabbed tighter, Stihl increased the Bore of the 026/260 from 44 to 44.7mm to keep the BHP the same and still meet requirements. 

They are a business like any other, they don’t want to lose market share. Please do all you can to send a link of this thread to them. If you don’t think a company that large is watching online forums about their products, you’re probably wrong. They have to be. The bad publicity of their models in a place where aficionados come isn’t a good thing in any way.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

I was just curious when you said the clutch drum was smokin since that usually means the clutch is still turning and the drum is stuck (due to misalignment, incorrect install, bearing bad, bar pinched, bar/sprocket clogged) and that would mean the saw has decent power. I also was wondering this since the oiler was replaced so the clutch would have to be taken off, was this done with an impactor and what was used as a piston stop since the usual plastic piston stop for the 044, 440, 460, 461 that sits in the squish band won't work, neither will the one i have for a 201t, with the smaller plug hole, maybe just used the rope method?. Since it was new it probably wasn't that tight anyway. Your saw does not have the quickstop chainbrake, that feature was very unpopular and shops could barely get rid of a saw with that, the handle is very large on that compared to the normal throttle lock. 

Either way something is bad with the saw if the compression is really that low, but the reading can be affected by where the schrader valve is on your tester, what does the adapter or hose on your tester look like? 

When i say they are turds brand new i mean they should still cut well with light pressure thru softwood and hardwood and hold rpm but don't expect to put on a 25" bar and blaze thru a 20" oak when leaning on it just cuz its a new saw. You can put a lot more pressure on the bar once broken in and they cut great.

One more thing, my 462 brand new would blaze thru wood with a 20" bar but couldn't clear chips fast enough and the bar and sprocket tip would get clogged and sieze until i cleared it....i was used to running a loose chain with my older saws with the wrap style larger chip deflectors. Anyway, i put the chain a little tighter and the chips don't clog the bar anymore, though id still like a larger clutch cover but they are expensive of course.

Final summary: I think your saw is low on power and is defective. My comments are just other potential things that can happen with any used or new saw.


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## Colt Marlington (Apr 4, 2019)

Maybe they had a bad batch of too thick base gaskets.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> I read the owners manual for the 362 and 20 " is the max recomended bar length. Iv'e run a 25 0n my 036 a few times but not for all day cutting.



https://m.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/downloads/Chain-Saw-Comparison-Chart.pdf

25" is the what I Stihl specs


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> page 2 of this manual on the quickstop. after i read about this i'm wondering if this could affect operation of the saw if it was not working properly?
> https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...IHL-MS-362-C-MQ-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf



Well I wondering if this is the problem. It stop just like I'd had throw the brake on. I have to lift the saw out of the cut shake it going again. When it cuts its fast and the RPM you can't keep constant very long. I'm thinking it has to be the inertia activation maybe. Boy you would have thought the shops would have thought of that.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 4, 2019)

The quick stop has a fat lockout lever, then has a cable that runs up to the brake


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> I was just curious when you said the clutch drum was smokin since that usually means the clutch is still turning and the drum is stuck (due to misalignment, incorrect install, bearing bad, bar pinched, bar/sprocket clogged) and that would mean the saw has decent power. I also was wondering this since the oiler was replaced so the clutch would have to be taken off, was this done with an impactor and what was used as a piston stop since the usual plastic piston stop for the 044, 440, 460, 461 that sits in the squish band won't work, neither will the one i have for a 201t, with the smaller plug hole, maybe just used the rope method?. Since it was new it probably wasn't that tight anyway. Your saw does not have the quickstop chainbrake, that feature was very unpopular and shops could barely get rid of a saw with that, the handle is very large on that compared to the normal throttle lock.
> 
> Either way something is bad with the saw if the compression is really that low, but the reading can be affected by where the schrader valve is on your tester, what does the adapter or hose on your tester look like?
> 
> ...



When the problem occurs the chain just stops the saw doesn't die it still running but min RPM, the clutch has to slip some. As the chain stops and the saw bogs down so fast there is no way you can react fast enough m most of the time. The power head just can't turn the chain. I had a 3rd shop get me the oiler and install it I'd know what the used to pull the clutch. I used brought the piston up and used a rope, the clutch wasn't that tight. The clutch bell is a E-clip like all Stihl outboard clutch I've worked on. The bearing and bell looked perfect as did the clutch to me. If this saw doesn't have quick stop...I'm in agreement with you


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> The quick stop has a fat lockout lever, then has a cable that runs up to the brake



I recognize Part#1 ...now I;m curious I'll have to pull the bar cover off and look the other stuff I think is behind a plate between the clutch and the dwg.


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> There's also that whole 110psi thing...


Yes I am still trying to figure that crap out ! Never mind anything else!


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I recognize Part#1 ...now I;m curious I'll have to pull the bar cover off and look the other stuff I think is behind a plate between the clutch and the dwg.



If you have the quick stop you have #12 & 20. If not you have the regular looking handle #11 & 3.
#1 is the trigger


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## huskihl (Apr 4, 2019)

A video would be cool.........


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

huskihl said:


> A video would be cool.........


Plus 1


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 4, 2019)

From the picts I have seen of the OP`s saw it does not have the quick stop option, it has a regular operator presence lever.


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> From the picts I have seen of the OP`s saw it does not have the quick stop option, it has a regular operator presence lever.


The compression cant be right why the hell are they telling him this crap?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 4, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> The compression cant be right why the hell are they telling him this crap?


 Derail!


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## pavel408 (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> https://m.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/downloads/Chain-Saw-Comparison-Chart.pdf
> 25" is the what I Stihl specs



Funny, in Germany the very same saw can pull only 15-20"  https://www.stihl.de/gebrauchsanleitungen-sicherheitsbroschueren.aspx?Search=ms+362


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 4, 2019)

I always had the impression the European saws were more powerful, mostly due to @Saw Troll


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## boltonranger (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I have to lift the saw out of the cut shake it going again.



This is gold. (Maybe)

If you are needing to shake it - to get it going- something else may be going on here. 

Let’s all turn our attention to this new detail. 
Does anyone out there EVER have to shake a saw when it bogs in the cut?

Personally I only ever have to lift a saw, if it bogs. It spools back up and away we go. 

If it’s refusing to rev once the weight is off the bar-that’s a whole new thing (to me)

I’m not discounting what I feel is lower compression, not at all... and I may be missing something and barking up the wrong tree... but this info about having to shake the saw has my attention from a mechanics standpoint. 

What say all of you?


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## Colt Marlington (Apr 4, 2019)

boltonranger said:


> This is gold. (Maybe)
> 
> If you are needing to shake it - to get it going- something else may be going on here.
> 
> ...


I used to lift the front wheels on a mower and let it bang back to the ground to shake wet grass loose..?


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

If you have to lift the saw and shake it to get it going again:

That means return to dealer and have them fix it. 

Did this occur when they were testing? Have them test it in front of you. Sounds like bad compression still. Outside chance there something going on with the vent or carb lever or meter or something, or chainbrake....either way somebody has to take this thing apart and find out....if i was rich i would take it off your hands and try and see whats going on just out of curiosity. Some saws start out real "tight" but only when you lean on them.


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

Colt Marlington said:


> I used to lift the front wheels on a mower and let it bang back to the ground to shake wet grass loose..?


A friend uses his bars the lift stump cuts up after there finished to roll them! He is a hell of a good guy but spends thousands on bars.


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Derail!


I would love to get to the cause of the low compression. Cant be what they say if it is thats the end of that model!


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Derail!


You mean a derail derail!


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

Until someone shows me what compression adapter/hose they use for this small spark plug hole i'm not sure what to make of the compression readings without a squish measured. My 462 was at .031 and now at .021 and I'm at 120psi cold with the 10mm adapter that does not have the schrader in it. I don't use the decomp valve really ever on any saw. But i don't have any problems in the cut, and i can hang the saw by its pull cord for a long time before it eventually forces the piston over.


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

boltonranger said:


> This is gold. (Maybe)
> 
> If you are needing to shake it - to get it going- something else may be going on here.
> 
> ...


If its an accurate observation on his part not coincidence?


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> Until someone shows me what compression adapter/hose they use for this small spark plug hole i'm not sure what to make of the compression readings without a squish measured. My 462 was at .031 and now at .021 and I'm at 120psi cold with the 10mm adapter that does not have the schrader in it. I don't use the decomp valve really ever on any saw. But i don't have any problems in the cut, and i can hang the saw by its pull cord for a long time before it eventually forces the piston over.


I mentioned that to him and suggested he test some other small plug engine for comparison. I had the same problem when I got my first 10 mm saw the comp was like 120-130 in everything in my shop ! Logic said they ain't all junk even a trimmer or blower has 150 or more. He did post a pic of his gauge way back on here somewhere if you can find it. Hard to trouble shoot over the net through another party isn't it?


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

maybe shaking is not the correct term...I have to lift the saw and rock it up and down in kerf to get it going. I don't let off the throttle sometime is starting right away sometime it take a bit longer. But when the saw stop three to five times in a 15" cut that's a lot for the clutch to have to slip. The compression isn't at question its been checked 6 times with at least 4 different gauges by 3 people...we're all getting the same readings. Stihl is saying that is the correct compression for this model. Both shops say its right where it should be as is Stihl. I been busy today at work or I would run out to my car and check the if I have the quick stop...it was still dark when I got to work this morning.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

U dont have quickstop, but your lisle gauge has the Schrader in the hose right? The hose that went directly into the 034 saw? Reading is fine...then how do u screw the same hose into the 362? Snd u said the shop had the same setup. U need XTANGS comp tester


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

The Schrader valve is on the adapter, the vent is on the gauge. There is nothing wrong with my gauge.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

So you have another hose that is just like the one you show here with the 460 and 034, except the other hose is 10mm thread instead? Or do you screw your hose into a small piece of metal that is 10mm thread? I have run hundreds of compression tests on cars due to a maniac boss who made us check for every tune-up and buyers check. Not only did the hoses go on the cylinder without additional adapters but the volume of the combustion chamber is bigger than a few cc. The chainsaw combustion is what size? I don't know exactly, by lets just hypothetically say that my 70 cc saw compresses 10:1 so the combustion chamber is 7 cc. then i have my compression tester with schrader in the hose, screw that into a hollow metal adapter that has an air volume of 1 cc, then into the spark plug hole. Now the piston is compressing to 8 cc not 7 cc, that difference would make my saw read 120 when its really 140 psi.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

So doesn't look like I have quick stop


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> So you have another hose that is just like the one you show here with the 460 and 034, except the other hose is 10mm thread instead? Or do you screw your hose into a small piece of metal that is 10mm thread? I have run hundreds of compression tests on cars due to a maniac boss who made us check for every tune-up and buyers check. Not only did the hoses go on the cylinder without additional adapters but the volume of the combustion chamber is bigger than a few cc. The chainsaw combustion is what size? I don't know exactly, by lets just hypothetically say that my 70 cc saw compresses 10:1 so the combustion chamber is 7 cc. then i have my compression tester with schrader in the hose, screw that into a hollow metal adapter that has an air volume of 1 cc, then into the spark plug hole. Now the piston is compressing to 8 cc not 7 cc, that difference would make my saw read 120 when its really 140 psi.



My gauge has a adapter build into the hose not removable, I have another 10mm adapter that go from that to the adapter on the hose.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 4, 2019)

His adaptor May look like mine. I use it for cylinder blow-by


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

Yes that is the adapter I have and my 462 read 120psi with that setup but runs like a scalded cat..well not quite but anyway that will underestimate real compression....try running saw and when it bogs down stop the saw...can u turn the chain by hand...pull the plug, is it dark or light? Or return to dealer on warranty claim


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

The plug is light on the dark/black side but I would say it pretty normal. I the 1st shop pulled it when they tested it and agreed, I was standing right next to them when they tested my saw. Same compression setup as mine.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 4, 2019)

With a known good gauge with the adaptor I’m getting 120psi cold


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 4, 2019)

I would double check their carb adjustment. If it's to lean it wont have the torque. I run mine a little richer than normal when running a max length bar. something to try.
page 101 has the steps for adjustment on the 362


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I would double check their carb adjustment. If it's to lean it wont have the torque. I run mine a little richer than normal when running a max length bar. something to try.
> page 101 has the steps for adjustment on the 362



120psi cold ...same as the 2nd shop got. The 1st, 2nd shop and I got 110psi on hot compression test.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> I would double check their carb adjustment. If it's to lean it wont have the torque. I run mine a little richer than normal when running a max length bar. something to try.
> page 101 has the steps for adjustment on the 362



Its tuned to 13,400 RPM when I ran the cut test on 15" and 23" logs.


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## Ronaldo (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Its tuned to 13,400 RPM when I ran the cut test on 15" and 23" logs.


That's fine and all, but tune it in the wood for best results.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> So you have another hose that is just like the one you show here with the 460 and 034, except the other hose is 10mm thread instead? Or do you screw your hose into a small piece of metal that is 10mm thread? I have run hundreds of compression tests on cars due to a maniac boss who made us check for every tune-up and buyers check. Not only did the hoses go on the cylinder without additional adapters but the volume of the combustion chamber is bigger than a few cc. The chainsaw combustion is what size? I don't know exactly, by lets just hypothetically say that my 70 cc saw compresses 10:1 so the combustion chamber is 7 cc. then i have my compression tester with schrader in the hose, screw that into a hollow metal adapter that has an air volume of 1 cc, then into the spark plug hole. Now the piston is compressing to 8 cc not 7 cc, that difference would make my saw read 120 when its really 140 psi.


Yup! And a wrong schrader valve can wreck havok also as i found out!


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Its tuned to 13,400 RPM when I ran the cut test on 15" and 23" logs.


Do you have any Stihl machines like blowers trimmers pole pruner that has that smaller plug to cross check this gauge?


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

I've never tuned a saw in wood, I just have tune no load like the shops do? What's your procedure and what is the top RPM unloaded afterwards? I've tune/jetted a lot of motor cycles there all tuned under load, going by the spark plug. Never heard that on a chainsaw. Right now...I don't want to tune this saw or make any adjustments. The shop I bought it from tuned it...not sure if the 2nd shop make any adjustments...it is idling higher then when I 1st checked/installed the tach. The 2nd shop may have tuned it, but never said so...I don't know. I think last time I ran the saw it was idling at 3400rpm, I don't remember if the chain was turning or not...at the time I didn't really pay that much attention to the idle just the max RPM and how it cuts. The tuning isn't that far off that i can cut 15" of wood and have the chain stopping like it is. No calls todays from the 2nd shop nor was there a call from JD the NW district Stihl manager, he should be in the office tomorrow. unless I miss understood his answering machine message...he could have said " out thru April 5th". I don't remember...I'll call again tomorrow.
My wife dad isn't doing good so leaving out of town at noon tomorrow (heart issues) . I'm going to sit on the saw until I talk to JD like other have suggested...see what he has to say. Boy it would be nice just to get out of this saw...it been complete stress on me getting hosed out of $1000. Not sure how things are in your home but it take me a while to save for something like this with my mad money, trying to tell my wife I need another saw when I have 5 other saw in the barn...she not going for that! My wife the best thing about me so not going against that. She got a serious photographic memory, she can read a book and a year later read it back to you without the book almost word for word. She a farm gal...knows almost every tool I have and don't ...have plus she can use them. Not the typical wife that's for sure.
When I met her...my family been hunting elk here in Oregon for over 140+ years. 1st white man in the Umpqua Valley Dr. James Cole. She told me at one point she had a rifle but I didn't pay much attention, so I going elk hunting with the family. She mention she has hunting rifle so I invite her. We're on are way down to Roseburg and she says I haven't shot my gun in a while maybe we should pull over and check it. So, I pull off at Curtain drive up in the woods...I stick piece of notebook paper with 1" bulls eye. She get this rifle out and thumbing shells in it. These rounds are as big as her thumbs...375 big bore, 37 caliber. She shoot 2 round , off hand, open sights both in the black. I picked up the cases and I couldn't wait to show, brag about this woman. She something...drive semi's old school 5/4 type trucks, break horse, ran race horses, had her trainer license. Never rode a motorcycle or 4 wheeler when we met.. never used a hand clutch...Busted the bead on two of the 350 warrior tires sliding it by noon the 1st day out at the dunes. Trust me I don't get away with anything with her...loosing $1000 hurts... I really wanted this saw! That why I spent the time to get it just the way I wanted it, pretty proud of it when I finished it, now to have it run like it does is pretty upsetting.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Do you have any Stihl machines like blowers trimmers pole pruner that has that smaller plug to cross check this gauge?



I have 3 stihl weedeaters, but not sure any of them are 10mm plugs. A Husky pole saw, husky hedge trimmer and shindaiwa packpack blower...I guess I have a Homelite top handle but I don't count that as a one of my saws. I have little piece of ground with about 1/2 to 3/4 acre yards with a lot of flower beds so i have few tools.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

Half my place is timber half pasture and the house. I'm right at base of the Cascade range right up against Timber Company.


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## stihlguy (Apr 4, 2019)

av8or3 said:


> You know, it may just need to be broken in. My 462’s chain stopped many times the first time I ran it. I adjusted my technique and kept cutting. But I ran it for about 1 1/2 hrs that first day. The next day the saw was noticeably stronger. It has been noticeably stronger each time I have run it and I think I have about 4-5 hours on it. I was counting tanks, but lost count. Maybe it’ll come around. I mean they showed you a brand new one is the same so run it like you stole it and it will either fail or not.


+1 mine did the same, lovin' more each time I run it. It takes many tanks to break these saws in.


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## stihlguy (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> We had a family dinner yesterday and I was talking to my nephew about my MS362 and this warranty repair. He's never heard of anyone having a brand new Stihl needing warranty repair. So, I ran a search on this site and came up with nothing. Has anyone had experience with Stihl warranty...just wondering what to expect?


My original MS362 purchased in 2012 kept getting fines into the carb, dealer couldn't correct it, I didn't like it, got a brand new MS362-C.


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> 120psi cold ...same as the 2nd shop got. The 1st, 2nd shop and I got 110psi on hot compression test.


 I still dont mean they have the right setup on the tester either. Any of your friends have a Stihl machine with a small plug test your gauge !


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

If you have an adapter on there that will definitely screw with it ! MS 201 Ts stihl blowers Stihl pole pruners all have the small plugs at least the new machines I am speaking of. Dont bet on that compression being that low recheck that gauge like I said. Does the compression feel like **** next to another saw?Poor mans tester have your wife try to start it if she can pull it fast its shot!


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

I start the saw without the compression release it that easy. White wolf...I'm home I'll run out to the barn and see what I have. My power head doesn't have bar on it but I'll see if it falls holding the rope.


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I start the saw without the compression release it that easy. White wolf...I'm home I'll run out to the barn and see what I have. My power head doesn't have bar on it but I'll see if it falls holding the rope.


And compare that to the other saw you have.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 4, 2019)

Does it run like my 036 with a 20” 33rs chain


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## lone wolf (Apr 4, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Does it run like my 036 with a 20” 33rs chain



Thats cutting fast whats the wood? Ash?


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 4, 2019)

I believe it was oak,I was cutting it last fall. 
I run my chain with .025 raker hight. Even a square filed chain.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Do you have any Stihl machines like blowers trimmers pole pruner that has that smaller plug to cross check this gauge?



I went thru all my power tools and the last thing I look at was my wife weed eater which is easy start looks like a 10mm. By time I gotting my tools my uncle Tony showed up he's head to Idaho in morning and needed to borrow some tools. My wife got home and dinner I ran out of time. I'll check it as soon as I can.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 4, 2019)

Oh I hung the power head by the rope it doesn't move. With the compression release it does..slowly steps down the power head is 12.3 lbs


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## CR888 (Apr 5, 2019)

I too think your adapter is not allowing the gauge to get a correct reading. With all your engine building experience, I don't understand why you can't remove 4 muffler screws to inspect piston. Have you made sure the spark arrestor screen is not plugged up with carbon (that is 1 screw on muffler outlet).


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## boltonranger (Apr 5, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> So you have another hose that is just like the one you show here with the 460 and 034, except the other hose is 10mm thread instead? Or do you screw your hose into a small piece of metal that is 10mm thread? I have run hundreds of compression tests on cars due to a maniac boss who made us check for every tune-up and buyers check. Not only did the hoses go on the cylinder without additional adapters but the volume of the combustion chamber is bigger than a few cc. The chainsaw combustion is what size? I don't know exactly, by lets just hypothetically say that my 70 cc saw compresses 10:1 so the combustion chamber is 7 cc. then i have my compression tester with schrader in the hose, screw that into a hollow metal adapter that has an air volume of 1 cc, then into the spark plug hole. Now the piston is compressing to 8 cc not 7 cc, that difference would make my saw read 120 when its really 140 psi.



I mean no offense but this is not quite right. The analogy supposes that an adapter or extension on the end of a compression tester will alter its reading. It will not. The reason is because there is already air within the adapter.

Think about it this way...
You blow up a balloon with air- you tie it off and set it on a workbench. 

Now put a 5 lb brick on the balloon. 
The air pressure inside the balloon goes up by 5 pounds. 

Now try the same thing with a bigger balloon, and then a smaller one. 

The pressure in all three balloons will always increase by 5 pounds because that’s the weight of the brick. 

The volume of the balloons, ie. the amount of air in each one can differ, but that 5 pound brick presses the same weight down on the balloon regardless. 

The size of the balloon is volume. 
The weight of the brick is pressure. 

So a compression tester with a longer or shorter hose may have a different volume of air but the pressure stays the same. 

(For simplicity I’m ignoring the force the rubber balloon is squeezing on the air inside it. )


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## grizz55chev (Apr 5, 2019)

boltonranger said:


> I mean no offense but this is not quite right. The analogy supposes that an adapter or extension on the end of a compression tester will alter its reading. It will not. The reason is because there is already air within the adapter.
> 
> Think about it this way...
> You blow up a balloon with air- you tie it off and set it on a workbench.
> ...


There are post after post of the effects that the guage has on the reading, wrong schrader valve in the tip or no valve at all are prime examples of this. Not saying this is the case in this instance, but it’s well documented.


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## huskihl (Apr 5, 2019)

boltonranger said:


> I mean no offense but this is not quite right. The analogy supposes that an adapter or extension on the end of a compression tester will alter its reading. It will not. The reason is because there is already air within the adapter.
> 
> Think about it this way...
> You blow up a balloon with air- you tie it off and set it on a workbench.
> ...


Any adapter without a Schrader valve in the end that screws into the spark plug hole will give low readings.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

Due to increased volume above the piston rings, its the same thing as increasing the squish, the compression falls. The adapters causing this are little more than a hollow tube that the 14mm compression end with the Schrader valve screws into, that extra air space causes lower compression .


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## farmer steve (Apr 5, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Does it run like my 036 with a 20” 33rs chain



can't see the vid. unavailable.


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## Bwildered (Apr 5, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Oh I hung the power head by the rope it doesn't move. With the compression release it does..slowly steps down the power head is 12.3 lbs


I'd like to see a video of your cutting technique, that could be very telling.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

CR888 said:


> I too think your adapter is not allowing the gauge to get a correct reading. With all your engine building experience, I don't understand why you can't remove 4 muffler screws to inspect piston. Have you made sure the spark arrestor screen is not plugged up with carbon (that is 1 screw on muffler outlet).


He removed the muffler looked good inside.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> There are post after post of the effects that the guage has on the reading, wrong schrader valve in the tip or no valve at all are prime examples of this. Not saying this is the case in this instance, but it’s well documented.


I seen it happen it drove me nuts for a few days! Wouldn't it be something if it turned out the compression was normal and the shop took it wrong and lied?


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

huskihl said:


> Any adapter without a Schrader valve in the end that screws into the spark plug hole will give low readings.


Absolutely! And the wrong Scrader too!


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

I understand the frustrations with the new saws, my first new one was a 241, i was so excited at all the new tech and hype and it disappointed out of the box so i sold it with less than 2 tanks on it. In hindsight i didn't give it enough time to break in. I also had a 361 that i had to rebuild three times since it kept on scoring the piston, couldn't figure it out until the end was a bad decomp valve but it turned me off of ever having a 361 or using a decomp valve. I feel in this situation the compression is probably OK, there is something else going on with the saw but tough to tell online.....but regardless i feel the pain of the excitement and the let down and then you just want to rid yourself of the saw and the situation. I would have thought the mtronic 362 would be more prone to potential issues like this due to additional wiring but a regular carb and ignition can have issues too, they make millions of saws, there will be some with problems, so they have specialized dealers for it.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> I understand the frustrations with the new saws, my first new one was a 241, i was so excited at all the new tech and hype and it disappointed out of the box so i sold it with less than 2 tanks on it. In hindsight i didn't give it enough time to break in. I also had a 361 that i had to rebuild three times since it kept on scoring the piston, couldn't figure it out until the end was a bad decomp valve but it turned me off of ever having a 361 or using a decomp valve. I feel in this situation the compression is probably OK, there is something else going on with the saw but tough to tell online.....but regardless i feel the pain of the excitement and the let down and then you just want to rid yourself of the saw and the situation. I would have thought the mtronic 362 would be more prone to potential issues like this due to additional wiring but a regular carb and ignition can have issues too, they make millions of saws, there will be some with problems, so they have specialized dealers for it.


I have a bunch of 241's and I think they are nice light nimble little saws with exceptional cutting ability for their size! My go to saw for limbing.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

So should we take bets on whats wrong with it ? I dont believe the dealer that low compression like that is correct and made like that!


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

OP send me your compression tester with the adapter and I will clear this up. PM me!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

If only one of us had that saw for a couple of hours this chit would be figured out and fixed tuit suit. I can follow that the OP did not want to pull the saw apart for fear of Stihl turning down this case due to owner tampering. It really depends on the dealer, one screw removed and they can disallow any warranty work. Been there and done it as they say.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> If only one of us had that saw for a couple of hours this chit would be figured out and fixed tuit suit. I can follow that the OP did not want to pull the saw apart for fear of Stihl turning down this case due to owner tampering. It really depends on the dealer, one screw removed and they can disallow any warranty work. Been there and done it as they say.


Yes you are right. But I dont know if that compression is correct. And if his gauge is incorrect so are the dealers! And that part about being normal IDK!!!!!!!!!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

Was at a dealers shop one day looking for some presets , parts guy said come out back with me, got boxes with leftover ones out there, pick out what you want from them. The company tech was in a convo with the store owner, owner saying to the tech, find something/anything to get this guy off my back. Tech was looking the saw over real close, almost like a detective and he says to me, knows I work on them a lot. Does this muffler look too clean to you? Kinda I say ,so he removes the front cover and the muffler was clean as brand new, there was carbon buildup in the exhaust port, this saw had maybe 20 hours on it. Guess what?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

Many questions we cannot answer due to not having the saw in our hands, cannot get the needed answers to diagnose a case like this online, hands on is how I fix them.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Many questions we cannot answer due to not having the saw in our hands, cannot get the needed answers to diagnose a case like this online, hands on is how I fix them.


Well he could ship me the tester and that may eliminate the low compression for one thing. Not a lot to ship.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Well he could ship me the tester and that may eliminate the low compression thing for one thing. Not a lot to ship.


 Certainly, that would be just one answer to this case, many others not enough or not the answer I would need.


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## cuinrearview (Apr 5, 2019)

Why do I keep clicking on this thread!!?!?!???


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Certainly, that would be just one answer to this case, many others not enough or not the answer I would need.


Well I think he's up towards Canada? Ship you the powerhead.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> Why do I keep clicking on this thread!!?!?!???


 Addicting


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Addicting


Because we need the answer that's why!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Well I think he's up towards Canada? Ship you the powerhead.



Would love to have that saw right here, it would be fixed in a heartbeat. No saw has ever beat me, I always win no matter the cost. Money has never stopped me from fixing any machine I have torn into.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Would love to have that saw right here, it would be fixed in a heartbeat. No saw has ever beat me, I always win no matter the cost. Money has never stopped me from fixing any machine I have torn into.


I don't doubt you for a second!


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

Imprzed205 said:


> It’s like a murder mystery! We must find the suspected problem. Or crack?


Whats your best guess of the problem?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I don't doubt you for a second!



Chainsaw problems are so low end mechanically speaking but I also realize the OP has bought and paid for a new Stihl saw that should work and perform right out of the box. One expects this when buying new and feels safe due to warranty and the stated policy the saw can be returned if not satisfied, bit of smoke and mirrors there but at least implied. I have learned otherwise from extended experience.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Chainsaw problems are so low end mechanically speaking but I also realize the OP has bought and paid for a new Stihl saw that should work and perform right out of the box. One expects this when buying new and feels safe due to warranty and the stated policy the saw can be returned if not satisfied, bit of smoke and mirrors there but at least implied. I have learned otherwise from extended experience.


1000.00 is a good amount and they should try to help the guy!
And so everyone knows the satisfaction guarantee is 7 days which I don't think the mention at all!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Well I think he's up towards Canada? Ship you the powerhead.



I get stuff shipped to me frequently, more often dropped off that others did not fix,could not fix, they all go back out fixed correctly, no returns to date.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> I get stuff shipped to me frequently, more often dropped off that others did not fix,could not fix, they all go back out fixed correctly, no returns to date.


What do you have the most of 044's ?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> 1000.00 is a good amount and they should try to help the guy!



This is the real issue here, Stihl should correct this whole situation, but it really depends on the dealer first step, if that don`t get satisfaction one goes further up the ladder til the saw gets sent back to Stihl corporate repair facility where they can authorize or disallow warranty. Until the case is taken far as it can go the dealers can and will stall.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> This is the real issue here, Stihl should correct this whole situation, but it really depends on the dealer first step, if that don`t get satisfaction one goes further up the ladder til the saw gets sent back to Stihl corporate repair facility where they can authorize or disallow warranty. Until the case is taken far as it can go the dealers can and will stall.


Reminds me of car salesman!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> What do you have the most of 044's ?



In numbers, yes, they became my favorite saws starting with a red lever slant fin 10 mm way back. I have more 026`s that I port and modify but they are always coming and going.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> In numbers, yes, they became my favorite saws starting with a red lever slant fin 10 mm way back. I have more 026`s that I port and modify but they are always coming and going.


I have a red lever slant fin but IDK if its a ten. Do the tens have hotter porting and timing over a red lever 12?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> 1000.00 is a good amount and they should try to help the guy!
> And so everyone knows the satisfaction guarantee is 7 days which I don't think the mention at all!



The return policy has never been mentioned to me at any dealership, most times they can`t get you out the door fast enough, had my battles with them but never returned a saw, never will. Warranty is a non issue with me personally but it should be there for anyone else buying a new product from a registered dealer. I bought a new MS440 that the dealer never registered, even though we filled out the form right there after purchase, extra oil and extended warranty gibberish and all.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I have a red lever slant fin but IDK if its a ten. Do the tens have hotter porting and timing over a red lever 12?



Yes they do.


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## lone wolf (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Yes they do.


And I thought this thing ran hot! It really cuts good compared to my MS440! Keeps up with my 046. I wonder what is in it? I think it is the 12mm though.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> And I thought this thing ran hot! It really cuts good compared to my MS440! Keeps up with my 046. I wonder what is in it? I think it is the 12mm though.


 We can start another thread or take this to the PM`s so we don`t derail this thread any further, I love my ported 044`s.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

I think its best for the OP to keep pushing for a resolution in this case, go beyond the dealer if not satisfied, contact the regional sales rep if possible, go even higher to Stihl corporate, they are more sympathetic and understanding to customers.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> We can start another thread or take this to the PM`s so we don`t derail this thread any further, I love my ported 044`s.



If you start another thread I’d like to follow that. 
All this talk has me looking at my plug and piston wash on my ported 460. Im off and it’s raining so I’m stuck in the shop.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> The return policy has never been mentioned to me at any dealership, most times they can`t get you out the door fast enough, had my battles with them but never returned a saw, never will. Warranty is a non issue with me personally but it should be there for anyone else buying a new product from a registered dealer. I bought a new MS440 that the dealer never registered, even though we filled out the form right there after purchase, extra oil and extended warranty gibberish and all.



Most dealers don’t know what the policy is. So they can’t tell you or implement it to help you out. 
Ask every dealer what does the ultra oil warranty cover. You’ll most likely get a diff answer from each.


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## cuinrearview (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> derail this thread any further


You mean 350+ posts of tail chasing isn't enough of a train wreck?


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## shadco (Apr 5, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> Why do I keep clicking on this thread!!?!?!???




Because we all need our heads examined.



.


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## boltonranger (Apr 5, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> There are post after post of the effects that the guage has on the reading, wrong schrader valve every in the tip or no valve at all are prime examples of this. Not saying this is the case in this instance, but it’s well documented.


You and Jerry are right; which I can see better now that I’m awake. 
I was ignoring the fact that a mile long comp tester hose increases volume of air which decreases pressure. Thanks for the gentle reminder. 

The flaw in my analogy is that my balloon on the bench has no tail!
Sorry James- had a senior moment...


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

boltonranger said:


> You and Jerry are right; which I can see better now that I’m awake.
> I was ignoring the fact that a mile long comp tester hose increases volume of air which decreases pressure. Thanks for the gentle reminder.
> 
> The flaw in my analogy is that my balloon on the bench has no tail!
> Sorry James- had a senior moment...



No problem, we all get mental images at times that don`t always include all the elements in play, many of my posts don`t include all the tiny bits of info some need to do a complete job, I let others fill in some of those blank spaces, sometimes...LOL


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## grizz55chev (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> No problem, we all get mental images at times that don`t always include all the elements in play, many of my posts don`t include all the tiny bits of info some need to do a complete job, I let others fill in some of those blank spaces, sometimes...LOL


I hope the OPfollows through this, we all would like to know how Stihl and the dealer resolve the issue of the lemon Saw.


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## shadco (Apr 5, 2019)

.

We are here because we are not all there.


.


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## boltonranger (Apr 5, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> If you start another thread I’d like to follow that.
> All this talk has me looking at my plug and piston wash on my ported 460. Im off and it’s raining so I’m stuck in the shop.


You know, this is really a great picture. 
Could easily be sold as phone or computer wallpaper.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

Made another Call to JD the Pacific NW Stihl Manager... he's out until Monday. Miss understood the his out of the office message on 1st time I called JD. No calls from the 2nd shop on a used saw credit so assuming that's not good new, I haven't called them back thou. Guess I'll see on Monday what JD has to say. The 2nd shop maybe waiting for JD to get back too them...but he is the guy from Stihl that can make a decision and has the last word over this is my understanding after talking to Stihl support.


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## farmer steve (Apr 5, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Made another Call to JD the Pacific NW Stihl Manager... he's out until Monday. Miss understood the his out of the office message on 1st time I called JD. No calls from the 2nd shop on a used saw credit so assuming that's not good new, I haven't called them back thou. Guess I'll see on Monday what JD has to say. The 2nd shop maybe waiting for JD to get back too them...but he is the guy from Stihl that can make a decision and has the last word over this is my understanding after talking to Stihl support.


James here is an email address for Stihl technical support . SEND JOE AN EMAIL .
[email protected]


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## Tobystihl (Apr 5, 2019)

As per my previous post regarding stuck rings on the ms362 this is the latest one...


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 5, 2019)

Tobystihl said:


> As per my previous post regarding stuck rings on the ms362 this is the latest one... View attachment 728073



What caused the ring to stick?Gummy oil residue in the groove?


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## grizz55chev (Apr 5, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> What caused the ring to stick. Gummy oil residue in the groove?


Motion is lotion, it sat with fuel in it for too long!


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## Tobystihl (Apr 5, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> What caused the ring to stick?Gummy oil residue in the groove?


Not sure, but most of the ms362's I strip down due to running issues, this is what I find.
There seems to be very tight tolerances between ring and piston on this particular model, this one is not showing any signs of it, but normally I find the piston skirt has hard smooth black carbon deposits from combustion blowby.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

Looks like moisture as in condensation, just a lite hazing on the rings will stick them around my part of Canada, we are close to the salt water ocean .


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## Tobystihl (Apr 5, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Looks like moisture as in condensation, just a lite hazing on the rings will stick them around my part of Canada, we are close to the salt water ocean .


That is a very good point, I am coastal here too!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 5, 2019)

Salt air and steel, cast iron and most ferrous metals don`t get along well.


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## Be Stihl (Apr 5, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> The shop looked at my saw yesterday, they didn't seem to care about the mods. They thought the tach was a good Idea. I hear ya on the oiler thou because if I get a replacement, I'm out $100. But this is a good shop so I'm not so worried about the mods. ...its a dwg and a tach, there's no holes... the tach is sealed in the cover. The tach is inductive so no mods to the saw at all that isn't factory other then the cover. Plus there's the winter and summer plug if there concern about a leak to the filter...the saw only has .3 total hours on it. Yesterday when I had the saw in at the shop because of the flooding and I thought something was wrong with it. At that time they saw the hour meter was at 0 hours...hadn't ran long enough to even give a reading. It would be pretty hard to say I did something to the saw. The shop ran my saw yesterday. I think its best to just take it in...as suggested. The way I look at it I did what was required to make sure the saw was square with the shop, they told me there was nothing wrong with the saw run it. I had flooded it! I wondering if the compression release is faulty...the saw idles fine thou. Not sure but since it new...going to let them figure it out. Taking the saw in on my lunch...I have my camera here so if need be I'll look in on the cylinder with them.



I had a similar problem with my MS261, I had to remove the decamp and plug it as it was clearly not sealing off when it popped out. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Huskybill (Apr 5, 2019)

See one saw I purchased had a stuck decomp button. I guess they realized it had no compression and sold it. Easy fix plenty of compression. Never let the saw sit with the button pressed.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> James here is an email address for Stihl technical support . SEND JOE AN EMAIL .
> [email protected]


 OK...I will Monday...my father in law is having heart issues and I don't have excess to email over here


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## James Sawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

I believe my decompress is working I held my saw by the rope and it does slowly drop when it in pressed but doesn't when not.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

The shop of purchase called me today and let me know that the Stihl rep was out of the office until next week. So...at least they make attempt to contact Stihl...instead of what they said when I talked to them. The last contact I had with them I was told they would file a complain and I would have to deal with Stilh on my own. They didn't want my saw, wanted nothing to do with it and their was nothing wrong with it. They said they wouldn't even give me a used saw valve. Furthermore didn't want to sell me another saw. I've always been honest and listen to their advice and attempt what they have said. All conversation have been pleasant until they told me that.


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## Huskybill (Apr 6, 2019)

Send an email to the Stihl CEO or chairman of the board. Forget the reps. Rattle the chain from the top. You want action you will get action. They like to get feed back at the top levels.


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## boltonranger (Apr 6, 2019)

I have never liked the way that scenario makes me feel. One minute you’re looking for help, the next you feel like your playing chess or poker in order to qualify for help. 

And the saw seems like the red headed stepchild that everyone else wants out of their sight. 

Perservere. Monday’s coming...


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## Be Stihl (Apr 6, 2019)

Stay calm and keep reaching out to reps and higher ups. They will solve your problem because it makes them appear to be fixing an issue which is their job. 
I had a rep send me the new 261 when I purchased an old model 261 that was marketed as the latest one. Didn’t realize it at the time of purchase, but it’s funny how the Dealer will turn on you when you want your money back or saw replaced!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 6, 2019)

Each time I open this thread I hope to hear there has been some progress with one of the dealers toward warranty being honored, just can`t hold my breath until they do. I still say go up the chain of command if the dealers won`t help. I often hear Stihl corporate will be more helpful.


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## boltonranger (Apr 6, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Each time I open this thread I hope to hear there has been some progress with one of the dealers toward warranty being honored, just can`t hold my breath until they do. I still say go up the chain of command if the dealers won`t help. I often hear Stihl corporate will be more helpful.



I agree. Corporate is there to protect their reputation and the brand. 
They’re not concerned with the same things a local dealer is. They wear a headset and their primary job is to listen, decipher, assist. 

Once I called Stihl CS about a carb change. I wanted to change my saw to adjustable low and high speed carb. 

I didn’t know what to expect- if they would slam the door on me for altering the saw (I waited until past warranty)

I really expected them to chide me for it and not help at all. I was wrong. Gal on the phone completely understood. Helpful and gladly looked up the part I needed and went on to discuss how I could either create a new hole in the existing plastic (to access the jet screw) or she could give me the part no. for a different piece with a hole already made. 

Could have knocked me over with a feather. Like she actually wanted me to be happy with my saw. 

I hope your experience is similar going forward.


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## farmer steve (Apr 6, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Each time I open this thread I hope to hear there has been some progress with one of the dealers toward warranty being honored, just can`t hold my breath until they do. I still say go up the chain of command if the dealers won`t help. I often hear Stihl corporate will be more helpful.


That's why I posted the email address for James for Stihl technical support and a real person. I emailed them a link to this thread and also told them that the saw owner was getting poor dealer support.


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Apr 6, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Each time I open this thread I hope to hear there has been some progress with one of the dealers toward warranty being honored, just can`t hold my breath until they do.* I still say go up the chain of command if the dealers won`t help*. I often hear Stihl corporate will be more helpful.



as an experienced businessman, I can tell you that... in my opinion... this is some good advice! if it was my issue, I would do just that. write the Top Dawg! send a professional looking letter CERTIFIED! also send one to your state's Attorney General. and a notice to BBB. assuming you feel the saw's condition is less than warranted. ie, expected. I would include a short paragraph on ur logger background, etc. add in that your efforts help with the logging industry in ur state. and that this situation is an element that is counter productive to logging the industry there and un pro-active. also that you bought the Sthil saw on co's reputation... and _in good faith!_ if you really want to add some weight to your mailout... copy it to President Trump, too. [hint: be sure to do this!] remember, we dint win WWII with a land invasion!! ~

Certified Letter to everybody!!! no one likes a Certified Letter that does not have a check  in it! lol

and I would send a Certified Letter to the Stihl dealer and cc everyone else you have contacted. once you mail out all this... all u will have to do is sit back and wait!

you will be *the Ringmaster*. but it must be done professionally. and u need to send these letters to a person. not a general address. no PO's... so some homework required.

I once bot an oz of gold in AK. the dealer never sent it to me despite repeated efforts to get him to. we were involved in the travel industry at the time. so I politely... screamed and btch'd by mail, AK Governor, town Mayor, AK Atty General, AK Dept of Tourism, etc... etc... all certified, cc'd to each party that it was a state fraud! and we were feeling inclined to warn all our AK bound tourist travelers to beware of such frauds up there...

[lol] the sky opened! the state sent me the oz. !! *placer gold.* I still have the oz!! and made the guy make some restitution. he sent me a gold fishing hook and an apology. the state billed him under forfeiture of his right to do business in AK for the oz placer gold. about $700/oz at the time. I wrote him back and said I had given fish many hooks over the years, but it was the first time I had ever gotten the hook from... _the fish!_

also u should cc your letter to the top dawg to your local and regional Stihl managers... by name.

so get crackin'.... 

Best Wishes!

[lol] and the sky opened up!...


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Apr 6, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> *That's why I posted the email address for James for Stihl technical support and a real person.* I emailed them a link to this thread and also told them that the saw owner was getting poor dealer support.



 to a real person. always in such circumstances...


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 6, 2019)

Backyard Lumberjack said:


> ps: I see u r in UK. so u will have to use/contact the appropriate agencies there. so not to President Trump, but Queen Elizabeth. and to The Daily Mirror, if they still print. and Prince Charles, too. btw - I used to live in UK, down in Harro area....


 The OP is from Oregon, West coast of USA, hence a 25" bar on a 60 cc saw. If one reads the thread from the start there was some things done to this saw that most Stihl dealers would say voided the warranty straight off, many but not all dealers, but most will not allow any modifications to a new saw under warranty done outside of a registered dealers repair facility. The modifications are a good idea but cutting a tach into the top cover and swapping out the oil pump may even tip off the repair facility that determines whether the saw will be fixed under warranty. My hope is of course the saw does qualify for return or to be fixed/replaced under warranty.


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## huskihl (Apr 6, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> The OP is from Oregon, West coast of USA, hence a 25" bar on a 60 cc saw. If one reads the thread from the start there was some things done to this saw that most Stihl dealers would say voided the warranty straight off, many but not all dealers, but most will not allow any modifications to a new saw under warranty done outside of a registered dealers repair facility. The modifications are a good idea but cutting a tach into the top cover and swapping out the oil pump may even tip off the repair facility that determines whether the saw will be fixed under warranty. My hope is of course the saw does qualify for return or to be fixed/replaced under warranty.


Sooo...send the letter to Trump?

Or don't send the letter to Trump?


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## huskihl (Apr 6, 2019)

Could use Twitter.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 6, 2019)

huskihl said:


> Sooo...send the letter to Trump?
> 
> Or don't send the letter to Trump?



Not to Trump, very delicate position to be in though. If the owner is required to send the saw off to a place higher than the dealers I would suggest putting the original oil pump back in and install a new top cover, keep the tach. My own experiences with Stihl dealers is they will try their best to void warranty, that means any modification or even remove a part from the new saw like an oiler change out would be cause enough to void the warranty.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 6, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Not to Trump, very delicate position to be in though. If the owner is required to send the saw off to a place higher than the dealers I would suggest putting the original oil pump back in and install a new top cover, keep the tach. My own experiences with Stihl dealers is they will try their best to void warranty, that means any modification or even remove a part from the new saw like an oiler change out would be cause enough to void the warranty.


Making modifications before testing out the Saw seems like bad practice anyway. Run it, confirm it’s a good runner, then modify it one step at a time, then you know exactly where things went wrong, JMHO.


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## farmer steve (Apr 6, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Not to Trump, very delicate position to be in though. If the owner is required to send the saw off to a place higher than the dealers I would suggest putting the original oil pump back in and install a new top cover, keep the tach. My own experiences with Stihl dealers is they will try their best to void warranty, that means any modification or even remove a part from the new saw like an oiler change out would be cause enough to void the warranty.





grizz55chev said:


> Making modifications before testing out the Saw seems like bad practice anyway. Run it, confirm it’s a good runner, then modify it one step at a time, then you know exactly where things went wrong, JMHO.


+1


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 6, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Making modifications before testing out the Saw seems like bad practice anyway. Run it, confirm it’s a good runner, then modify it one step at a time, then you know exactly where things went wrong, JMHO.



Agreed, if one wants to depend on a warranty at all then, no modifications at all, don`t even remove a screw or the techs have reason to void the warranty. I did post many post back that a guy had a saw voided due to the muffler looking too clean compared to the rest of the saw. The Tech knew that saw had run a modified muffler but the owner had kept the original muffler completely stock and put it back on before bringing the saw back to be looked at.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 6, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Each time I open this thread I hope to hear there has been some progress with one of the dealers toward warranty being honored, just can`t hold my breath until they do. I still say go up the chain of command if the dealers won`t help. I often hear Stihl corporate will be more helpful.



From my perspective...just like I said earlier I'm on my own...best cut my lost sell as a used saw but that look like its not even possible...so looks like it just what I said Stihl not going do anything. I have no warranty...just like I said. But because there is so many people looking at this I contacted Stihl. JD is the head regional manager before Corporate. I'm working up the ladder as suggested. Unless I don't want a wall hanger I'm going have fix it myself. I'm not getting any help from the shops pretty much says it...they won't give even $1 credit from where I stand. The second shop is waiting to hear from JD or that's the truth. The only reason the 2ND shop isn't calling they can't sell my saw as used as I see it...they don't want it either...both shops have ran this saw...guess they where just hoping I'd take it home and go away as I see it. Unless JD has an offer there is no support from Stihl


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 6, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> From my perspective...just like I said earlier I'm on my own...best cut my lost sell as a used saw but that look like its not even possible...so looks like it just what I said Stihl not going do anything. I have no warranty...just like I said. But because there is so many people looking at this I contacted Stihl. JD is the head regional manager before Corporate. I'm working up the ladder as suggested. Unless I don't want a wall hanger I'm going have fix it myself. I'm not getting any help from the shops pretty much says it...they won't give even $1 credit from where I stand. The second shop is waiting to hear from JD or that's the truth. The only reason the 2ND shop isn't calling they can't sell my saw as used as I see it...they don't want it either...both shops have ran this saw...guess they where just hoping I'd take it home and go away as I see it. Unless JD has an offer there is no support from Stihl



I really feel for you, being caught in this kind of bind but I try to bring out both sides of a story and there is a bit of stuff you have done yourself and plenty the dealers could do for you if they were any good. The dealers look at it from a business perspective and base their decisions on factors like how much money do you generate for them, relationships between both them and you and how much of their time will be involved getting your one saw through warranty repairs. We know the dealers should stand behind what they sell, they certainly will tell you about the warranty when selling you a product but all that excitement soon leaves if you bring an item back to be looked at, they try their hardest to shrug you off. That is why myself and others have repeatedly suggested going higher up, the higher ups are not so concerned about the bottom line but sometimes will jump through hoops to please a customer. It may just end up that none of them will help, its just a factor of Stihl having the largest slice of the outdoor power tool sales, one or two dissatisfied customers won`t hurt the bottom line much.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 6, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Not to Trump, very delicate position to be in though. If the owner is required to send the saw off to a place higher than the dealers I would suggest putting the original oil pump back in and install a new top cover, keep the tach. My own experiences with Stihl dealers is they will try their best to void warranty, that means any modification or even remove a part from the new saw like an oiler change out would be cause enough to void the warranty.



Well this for Stihl to determine regarding the warranty. But bottom line warranty or not why does this saw can't keep a 15" kerf clear enough that it doesn't stops the chain...that the question. Now many Stihl customer want buy a MS362 and run into this problem. I hope Stihl can at the min. Address this question.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 6, 2019)

Since we know the compression is probably ok. If the rpms go all over the place and randomly stalls in the cut I would check your ignition module. Swapping another on and see if it changed anything. 
They do control the timing and rev limit on the carb model. 

Even if it meant taking one off a new saw.


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## lone wolf (Apr 6, 2019)

huskihl said:


> Sooo...send the letter to Trump?
> 
> Or don't send the letter to Trump?


Why not?


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 6, 2019)

I was too thinking about the ignition since i'm confident its not the compression, and 4-strokes so no air leak or bad vent, and plug is dark so no air leak or carb prob, bad decomp would roast the piston, though could be running rich, but then it wouldn't it smoke if it was running rich enuf to stall and rpm is fine. Outside chance somthing with clutch side. Does it idle there for a long time fine? Can you limb fine with it? I also don't understand the kerf bit, thats the width of the blade right, which is like 1/4", not the width of the log? Please correct me if i dont understand right.


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Apr 7, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> *The OP is from Oregon, West coast of USA*, hence a 25" bar on a 60 cc saw. If one reads the thread from the start there was some things done to this saw that most Stihl dealers would say voided the warranty straight off, many but not all dealers, but most will not allow any modifications to a new saw under warranty done outside of a registered dealers repair facility. The modifications are a good idea but cutting a tach into the top cover and swapping out the oil pump may even tip off the repair facility that determines whether the saw will be fixed under warranty. My hope is of course the saw does qualify for return or to be fixed/replaced under warranty.



thanks. I guess my quick ref back was off target. then later on I thot about he said he was an OR logger... but I hadn't gotten back to ck it.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 7, 2019)

My saw idles fine. The few limbs I've cut..no problem. The saw bench runs fine it just doesn't have any power. If it had a tune problem...pretty easy to check the tach is right there. So you have ask if the saw doesn't have a problem why wouldwouldn't the shops take it as trade at a used saw value? Bottom line I'm out $1000 , they don't want and I don't want it. Yes I was stupid...I should have ran it put it wouldn't matter if I did that's the point...but knowing the thing is tune correctly and putting the right amount of oil on the bar to me is taking better care of it...making ever effort that it's going to last longer. Its a Stihl pro saw...the shops haven't had problem with tach or the oiler only my complaint that it has no power. They both ran it and both have seen the problem with the saw stopping. The 1st shop won't admit to it anymore but the 2ND shop still does. I was standing right next to the guy from the 1ST SHOP when it did multiple time's. They both told me I need to get use to it ...well 15" of wood should be nothing to 60cc pro saw.


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## Backyard Lumberjack (Apr 7, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> My saw idles fine. The few limbs I've cut..no problem. The saw bench runs fine it just doesn't have any power. If it had a tune problem...pretty easy to check the tach is right there. So you have ask if the saw doesn't have a problem why wouldwouldn't the shops take it as trade at a used saw value? Bottom line I'm out $1000 , they don't want and I don't want it. Yes I was stupid...I should have ran it put it wouldn't matter if I did that's the point...but knowing the thing is tune correctly and putting the right amount of oil on the bar to me is taking better care of it...making ever effort that it's going to last longer. Its a Stihl pro saw...the shops haven't had problem with tach or the oiler only my complaint that it has no power. They both ran it and both have seen the problem with the saw stopping. The 1st shop won't admit to it anymore but the 2ND shop still does. I was standing right next to the guy from the 1ST SHOP when it did multiple time's. They both told me I need to get use to it ...*well 15" of wood should be nothing to 60cc pro saw*.



nope! you are sure right about that! I have taken my 019T to 14" fresh oak... cuts steady right thru it... screaming all the way!! ~ 35cc


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## Bwildered (Apr 7, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> So they pulled a new MS362 off the shelf, never had fuel in it, ran the same compression test 110psi. They took my saw out to their test log (fir ~22") and ran several test cuts...basically full bar length cuts. Nice chips and they where able to put some load on the saw. The chain stopped several time, same as I was having. They thought the saw was fine, m



I'd like to see a vid of your cutting technique, the reason being is a while back some guy was carrying on & on & on about a bar being defective, when he showed the relevant pictures it was operator error of poor sharpening, so in other words it could be your technique. 
Above when they tested your saw they thought it cut fine, they test saws everyday of the week, why would they single out your saw & tell you bs story?
different saws require different techniques, when I use my stihl 090, if I use the same technique as my ms660 the chain will stop in the cut constantly, the power is in totally different rev ranges. The old 090 is low to mid revs power, if it over revs it chokes, runs rich & won't cut, with the ms660 power is at high revs & if I let the revs drop off it will bog & stop, basically new saws have to scream to cut well, you mention loading the saw up, you don't load modern saws up , you hold them wide open , keep the revs flat out, as high as possible & let the saw cut on its own, the skill is to not get them to load up.


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## lone wolf (Apr 7, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> My saw idles fine. The few limbs I've cut..no problem. The saw bench runs fine it just doesn't have any power. If it had a tune problem...pretty easy to check the tach is right there. So you have ask if the saw doesn't have a problem why wouldwouldn't the shops take it as trade at a used saw value? Bottom line I'm out $1000 , they don't want and I don't want it. Yes I was stupid...I should have ran it put it wouldn't matter if I did that's the point...but knowing the thing is tune correctly and putting the right amount of oil on the bar to me is taking better care of it...making ever effort that it's going to last longer. Its a Stihl pro saw...the shops haven't had problem with tach or the oiler only my complaint that it has no power. They both ran it and both have seen the problem with the saw stopping. The 1st shop won't admit to it anymore but the 2ND shop still does. I was standing right next to the guy from the 1ST SHOP when it did multiple time's. They both told me I need to get use to it ...well 15" of wood should be nothing to 60cc pro saw.


Well while we are checking every thing put a straight edge on that bar and see if its bent.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 7, 2019)

Well cutting rounds off a log is pretty basic start your cut, open the throttle and straight cut down the wood. I always watch for bark on the bottom of the cut on for...let off. You can't use the dog on this saw.


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## lone wolf (Apr 7, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Well cutting rounds off a log is pretty basic start your cut, open the throttle and straight cut down the wood. I always watch for bark on the bottom of the cut on for...let off. You can't use the dog on this saw.


Could the bar be bent check it? Did you cross check that gauge yet? We still dont know for sure its low compression!!!!!!!


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## SEAM (Apr 7, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Well cutting rounds off a log is pretty basic start your cut, open the throttle and straight cut down the wood. I always watch for bark on the bottom of the cut on for...let off. You can't use the dog on this saw.



With a high-revving saw you rather open up the throttle and then start the cut than opening the throttle after starting the cut (as a high-power but low-torque engine will have problems increasing rpms under load)... I might have gotten that part wrong, though.


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 7, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I would pull the damn muffler!


 But if he pulls the muffler and sees scoring or damage this wonderful eternal thread will end!!!! I would have demanded full refund after short time for $$$ spent--just in principle--David---seems like OP would get tired of typing by now.....


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 7, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I wish you would pull the muffler!!!!!!!!! Maybe it can be fixed cheaply! They are going to screw you good on trade!!!!!! Send me the damn thing and I will look at it and fix it free labor plus parts and shipping. Stop dealing with them car salesman!


 Lone wolf for president!!! He speaks with wisdom Young Grasshopper--Listen to him!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 7, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> Why do I keep clicking on this thread!!?!?!???


 Curiosity has killed my 4 cats--we gots to know the final score--I may just go buy 3 saws like his and do some testing and inspecting to wrap up the suspence. This is better than Columbo mystery Theatre...


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## Natster (Apr 7, 2019)

We'd all like to see you cut 3 cookie cuts off the end of a 15" log.
If for no other reason, just to satisfy our insatiable curiosity!
Thank you,
Nate


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## Bwildered (Apr 7, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Well cutting rounds off a log is pretty basic start your cut, open the throttle and straight cut down the wood. I always watch for bark on the bottom of the cut on for...let off. You can't use the dog on this saw.


Yes, but do you keep the revs as high as possible or do you load it up, bog & stop?
I remember my neighbor was ripping small logs in half , after a few hours listening to him getting nowhere by bogging the saw down, I went over & showed him to not force the saw untill it bogged & keep the saw revving flat out & lightly guide the saw while it did the cutting.


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## lone wolf (Apr 7, 2019)

Bwildered said:


> Yes, but do you keep the revs as high as possible or do you load it up, bog & stop?
> I remember my neighbor was ripping small logs in half , after a few hours listening to him getting nowhere by bogging the saw down, I went over & showed him to not force the saw untill it bogged & keep the saw revving flat out & lightly guide the saw while it did the cutting.


I dont even have to do that with my 241 his saw should pull without being super mindful of it! somethings wrong with it alright! He has another saw close to that one he said and no trouble with it!


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## Bwildered (Apr 7, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I dont even have to do that with my 241 his saw should pull without being super mindful of it! somethings wrong with it alright! He has another saw close to that one he said and no trouble with it!


He's already said he loads the saw up, the saw shop cut with it and said it was ok, a short period video of his cutting technique will show whether it's operator error or not.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 7, 2019)

Bwildered said:


> Yes, but do you keep the revs as high as possible or do you load it up, bog & stop?
> I remember my neighbor was ripping small logs in half , after a few hours listening to him getting nowhere by bogging the saw down, I went over & showed him to not force the saw untill it bogged & keep the saw revving flat out & lightly guide the saw while it did the cutting.


No I'm trying to keep the saw running at 10k as best as I can't


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## Bwildered (Apr 7, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> No I'm trying to keep the saw running at 10k as best as I can't


Why 10k? Where did that magical number come from? If the saw is loading & stalling in the cut it needs to be more revs with less load, you don't need a tach to cut well, it's just a feel of pressure & revs, you will not hurt the saw by reving the guts out of it, that's how the saw is designed & meant to operate. The difference between a saw cutting well & not is a matter of grams of force sometimes with the ability to let the saw clear & spin back up to peak revs again in a fraction of a second.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 7, 2019)

My 460 normally self feeds through the log. I’m trying to teach it to cut while I’m gone


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 7, 2019)

love the torque of the 460, especially in that hardwood there. My 462 is starting to wake up and gettin real strong now, prob close to your saw there. I got my snap-on 10mm compression tester hose today and checked the compression. With the regular hose and brass adaptor (the two on the left in the pic) it was blowing 120psi. With the snap-on hose (in the middle in the pic) its blowing 160psi. Both using the same gauge there. For the OP, i hope the Stihl rep can straighten things out for you, that saw should really rip, i wouldn't give up on it yet.


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## lone wolf (Apr 7, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> love the torque of the 460, especially in that hardwood there. My 462 is starting to wake up and gettin real strong now, prob close to your saw there. I got my snap-on 10mm compression tester hose today and checked the compression. With the regular hose and brass adaptor (the two on the left in the pic) it was blowing 120psi. With the snap-on hose (in the middle in the pic) its blowing 160psi. Both using the same gauge there. For the OP, i hope the Stihl rep can straighten things out for you, that saw should really rip, i wouldn't give up on it yet.


I bought the Snap On one too. It had bad Scrader valve at first but now its accurate.


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## lone wolf (Apr 8, 2019)

OP did you test that gauge in another machine?


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 8, 2019)

Don’t think so but His was showing 120 w/ adaptor same as mine. Without it should be 150


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 8, 2019)

Was just trying to rule out compression as the problem to work down the process of elimination tree. Its also tougher when you don't have a pile of saws to just pull a good part from to test. I have a pretty much new carb for a 200t that i swap in first to test any poor running 200t prior to looking for other problems. The OP has tried different bars and said the bar is oiling fine. The spark plug is greyish so that looks fine...if it was flooding you would have seepage out the muffler cover. I really can't think of anything else except for ignition (coil, wiring problem), but if it 4-strokes fine, do some ignition problems occur only under heavy load? I know they can change timing according to the rpm. If all else fails, splash a little seafoam in the mix and cut a few tanks worth


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## James Sawyer (Apr 8, 2019)

Still no word from Stihl...I have my email, typed ready to go.


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## lone wolf (Apr 8, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Still no word from Stihl...I have my email, typed ready to go.


Call them!


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## lone wolf (Apr 8, 2019)

Waiting to see about your gauge also?


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## James Sawyer (Apr 8, 2019)

I got JD voice mail on my last call, left another message.


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## Natster (Apr 8, 2019)

The more time goes by, the worse for you.
James, have you got a chainsaw buddy, near where you live, who can provide a second set of eyes, ears, brains?
I mean, so you can be 100% certain, and then go to town with Stihl.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 8, 2019)

Ha, Ha, forget the chainsaw bit..... i need a second set of all that for everything


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## SteveSr (Apr 8, 2019)

One other thought... I thought that the OPsaid t hat the carb was tuned to 13.4K. Well... the repair manual listed the max RPM spec at 14.0K. THis is a bit on the rich side and will account for somewhat less power in the saw. I'll let the experts decide if this is significant or not.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 8, 2019)

I don't think so, its not like these saws are supercharged and need high rpm to generate any torque, each saw and each fuel type and altitude can change the best tune and four-stroking but 13.4K sounds good to me, for breaking in would rather be a tad rich anyway. Even with high octane ethanol free, where you may lean it out a tad, it should still have damn good power above 13K, I think.


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## shadco (Apr 8, 2019)

If I was anywhere near Springfield Or I think I would ping @Chainsaw Jim and see if he would take a peak.

After it stops raining.
.


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 8, 2019)

I just want it to end with Stihl Standing behind their product and doing OP right...


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## Chainmale (Apr 9, 2019)

How did the place that did the oil pump remove the clutch? Rope? Piston chock?
If they didn't use an impact driver they could have caused damage.
Rope could have snagged in the port.
The whole clutch/bar chain thing still seems wierd though, wouldn't it just bog down and stop if it was a power issue not instant like the chain brake going on?


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## Bwildered (Apr 9, 2019)

Chainmale said:


> How did the place that did the oil pump remove the clutch? Rope? Piston chock?
> If they didn't use an impact driver they could have caused damage.
> Rope could have snagged in the port.
> The whole clutch/bar chain thing still seems wierd though, wouldn't it just bog down and stop if it was a power issue not instant like the chain brake going on?


99 times out of 100 the fault is the nut behind the wheel, I'm speaking from experience.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 9, 2019)

Chainmale said:


> How did the place that did the oil pump remove the clutch? Rope? Piston chock?
> If they didn't use an impact driver they could have caused damage.
> Rope could have snagged in the port.
> The whole clutch/bar chain thing still seems wierd though, wouldn't it just bog down and stop if it was a power issue not instant like the chain brake going on?



Your right, how did they remove it?I’ve seen a impact on the clutch shear a flywheel key. It was on a older 044 and couldn’t say if the flywheel was tight enough at the time. Checking the key would be a good idea.


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## Tobystihl (Apr 9, 2019)

I have seen on dismantling a saw in for repair, where, a piston stop has almost broken through the crown of a piston!


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## av8or3 (Apr 9, 2019)

Tobystihl said:


> I have seen on dismantling a saw in for repair, where, a piston stop has almost broken through the crown of a piston!


I use venitian blind cord. Pure cotton. It’s small, light, easy to manipulate and hard when it’s mashed. I once broke the tip off the Stihl piston stop inside the cyl of my 066. For about 30 minutes I could be seen dancing around my room holding that saw over my head trying to get that piece somewhere near the spark plug hole so I could get it out with some hemostats. Was successful.
Last time I used that tool.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 10, 2019)

I contacted JD yesterday with Stihl, He was very helpful and willing to address my concerns. So, there is some EPA regulations Stihl is trying to address but he wouldn't clarify any EPA issues with this model. Pretty much Stihl whole line is under EPA regulation...he was very general. I believe all 2 cycle are experiencing EPA focus now, but that my opinion. Not much was mentioned about the design changes on this MS362 but it should cut better than what I'm experiencing. JD is saying 40 hrs to break in this saw...anyone ever heard of that? I spoke to a buddy that has a falling company in Detroit Oregon area, pretty much he runs a new saw hard 8 hrs and consider it broke-in. That pretty much what my dad did too. JD suggested I run this saw or sent it to him, JJD has a lot test logs all sizes and he'll get to the bottom of this problem. Stihl will either replace my saw or fix it. JD opinion is the chrome cylinder is slick and the rings haven't had enough time to seat. Nothing was confirmed about the compression reading on this saw as being normal or not normal...pretty much the saw should cut better but the reason why is the rings haven't had time to seat. I seriously doubt Stihl will run my saw 40hrs. but bottom line they will fix this saw regardless. I sent a email capturing our conversation to JD plus the history/date around this MS362. I think JD should be aware of what's occurring with his dealer and their awareness to problems such as mine... how these shops are addressing this issues. Plus my concern is some guy buys a new saw and get killed by it due to ..well it not broke in! In my opinion that's a serious concern! I do think there is a serious issue with this saw. I don't know if all new saws are like that, but according to the shop they are! I guess I should have confirmed that comment "all new saws are like this" with JD but I did not. Normally I have a list of questions prior to meeting such this so every thing is captured; however, I totally slammed here at work with equipment upgrade and new equipment installation. We just short staffed here at work and my wife and I are experiencing parent health issues...I just got lot on my mind these last few day. As for Lone Wolf question regarding my compression reading ...my adapter to 10mm does not have a Schrader value built in but the fitting on the end which the adapter treads in to does. So...he could be correct. I just haven't had chance to run a test on my 10mm Stihl weed eater. If I had time I'd machine a fitting and install a Schrader valve but I don't right now.


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## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I contacted JD yesterday with Stihl, He was very helpful and willing to address my concerns. So, there is some EPA regulations Stihl is trying to address but he wouldn't clarify any EPA issues with this model. Pretty much Stihl whole line is under EPA regulation...he was very general. I believe all 2 cycle are experiencing EPA focus now, but that my opinion. Not much was mentioned about the design changes on this MS362 but it should cut better than what I'm experiencing. JD is saying 40 hrs to break in this saw...anyone ever heard of that? I spoke to a buddy that has a falling company in Detroit Oregon area, pretty much he runs a new saw hard 8 hrs and consider it broke-in. That pretty much what my dad did too. JD suggested I run this saw or sent it to him, JJD has a lot test logs all sizes and he'll get to the bottom of this problem. Stihl will either replace my saw or fix it. JD opinion is the chrome cylinder is slick and the rings haven't had enough time to seat. Nothing was confirmed about the compression reading on this saw as being normal or not normal...pretty much the saw should cut better but the reason why is the rings haven't had time to seat. I seriously doubt Stihl will run my saw 40hrs. but bottom line they will fix this saw regardless. I sent a email capturing our conversation to JD plus the history/date around this MS362. I think JD should be aware of what's occurring with his dealer and their awareness to problems such as mine... how these shops are addressing this issues. Plus my concern is some guy buys a new saw and get killed by it due to ..well it not broke in! In my opinion that's a serious concern! I do think there is a serious issue with this saw. I don't know if all new saws are like that, but according to the shop they are! I guess I should have confirmed that comment "all new saws are like this" with JD but I did not. Normally I have a list of questions prior to meeting such this so every thing is captured; however, I totally slammed here at work with equipment upgrade and new equipment installation. We just short staffed here at work and my wife and I are experiencing parent health issues...I just got lot on my mind these last few day. As for Lone Wolf question regarding my compression reading ...my adapter to 10mm does not have a Schrader value built in but the fitting on the end which the adapter treads in to does. So...he could be correct. I just haven't had chance to run a test on my 10mm Stihl weed eater. If I had time I'd machine a fitting and install a Schrader valve but I don't right now.


Well bud that Schrader valve sure is in question and I am very anxious to see what happens . You need to put it in another good running machine and see if it reads low again. Also that will mean they didn't do the test correct at the shop if they even did!


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## Tobystihl (Apr 10, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I contacted JD yesterday with Stihl, He was very helpful and willing to address my concerns. So, there is some EPA regulations Stihl is trying to address but he wouldn't clarify any EPA issues with this model. Pretty much Stihl whole line is under EPA regulation...he was very general. I believe all 2 cycle are experiencing EPA focus now, but that my opinion. Not much was mentioned about the design changes on this MS362 but it should cut better than what I'm experiencing. JD is saying 40 hrs to break in this saw...anyone ever heard of that? I spoke to a buddy that has a falling company in Detroit Oregon area, pretty much he runs a new saw hard 8 hrs and consider it broke-in. That pretty much what my dad did too. JD suggested I run this saw or sent it to him, JJD has a lot test logs all sizes and he'll get to the bottom of this problem. Stihl will either replace my saw or fix it. JD opinion is the chrome cylinder is slick and the rings haven't had enough time to seat. Nothing was confirmed about the compression reading on this saw as being normal or not normal...pretty much the saw should cut better but the reason why is the rings haven't had time to seat. I seriously doubt Stihl will run my saw 40hrs. but bottom line they will fix this saw regardless. I sent a email capturing our conversation to JD plus the history/date around this MS362. I think JD should be aware of what's occurring with his dealer and their awareness to problems such as mine... how these shops are addressing this issues. Plus my concern is some guy buys a new saw and get killed by it due to ..well it not broke in! In my opinion that's a serious concern! I do think there is a serious issue with this saw. I don't know if all new saws are like that, but according to the shop they are! I guess I should have confirmed that comment "all new saws are like this" with JD but I did not. Normally I have a list of questions prior to meeting such this so every thing is captured; however, I totally slammed here at work with equipment upgrade and new equipment installation. We just short staffed here at work and my wife and I are experiencing parent health issues...I just got lot on my mind these last few day. As for Lone Wolf question regarding my compression reading ...my adapter to 10mm does not have a Schrader value built in but the fitting on the end which the adapter treads in to does. So...he could be correct. I just haven't had chance to run a test on my 10mm Stihl weed eater. If I had time I'd machine a fitting and install a Schrader valve but I don't right now.


Good luck, I hope you get it sorted soon and hope that your parents are ok!


----------



## Cope1024 (Apr 10, 2019)

James,

My 2015 MS362C supposedly takes ± 5 tanks to break in, and I have heard 8 tanks for newer units. At this poit if it was me, I would send JD the saw. Let him know about the dealer installed oiler; you'll want it if he replaces the saw. Good luck!


----------



## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

Cope1024 said:


> James,
> 
> My 2015 MS362C supposedly takes ± 5 tanks to break in, and I have heard 8 tanks for newer units. At this poit if it was me, I would send JD the saw. Let him know about the dealer installed oiler; you'll want it if he replaces the saw. Good luck!


And then there is that 50.00 shipping?


----------



## cuinrearview (Apr 10, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> And then there is that 50.00 shipping?


At this point I'M almost willing to pick up shipping

Would save me some hair...


----------



## Cope1024 (Apr 10, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> And then there is that 50.00 shipping?



Hopefully they would reimburse him or send him a UPS label.


----------



## farmer steve (Apr 10, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I contacted JD yesterday with Stihl, He was very helpful and willing to address my concerns. So, there is some EPA regulations Stihl is trying to address but he wouldn't clarify any EPA issues with this model. Pretty much Stihl whole line is under EPA regulation...he was very general. I believe all 2 cycle are experiencing EPA focus now, but that my opinion. Not much was mentioned about the design changes on this MS362 but it should cut better than what I'm experiencing. JD is saying 40 hrs to break in this saw...anyone ever heard of that? I spoke to a buddy that has a falling company in Detroit Oregon area, pretty much he runs a new saw hard 8 hrs and consider it broke-in. That pretty much what my dad did too. JD suggested I run this saw or sent it to him, JJD has a lot test logs all sizes and he'll get to the bottom of this problem. Stihl will either replace my saw or fix it. JD opinion is the chrome cylinder is slick and the rings haven't had enough time to seat. Nothing was confirmed about the compression reading on this saw as being normal or not normal...pretty much the saw should cut better but the reason why is the rings haven't had time to seat. I seriously doubt Stihl will run my saw 40hrs. but bottom line they will fix this saw regardless. I sent a email capturing our conversation to JD plus the history/date around this MS362. I think JD should be aware of what's occurring with his dealer and their awareness to problems such as mine... how these shops are addressing this issues. Plus my concern is some guy buys a new saw and get killed by it due to ..well it not broke in! In my opinion that's a serious concern! I do think there is a serious issue with this saw. I don't know if all new saws are like that, but according to the shop they are! I guess I should have confirmed that comment "all new saws are like this" with JD but I did not. Normally I have a list of questions prior to meeting such this so every thing is captured; however, I totally slammed here at work with equipment upgrade and new equipment installation. We just short staffed here at work and my wife and I are experiencing parent health issues...I just got lot on my mind these last few day. As for Lone Wolf question regarding my compression reading ...my adapter to 10mm does not have a Schrader value built in but the fitting on the end which the adapter treads in to does. So...he could be correct. I just haven't had chance to run a test on my 10mm Stihl weed eater. If I had time I'd machine a fitting and install a Schrader valve but I don't right now.


good to hear JD is willing to work with you James. My 462 has about 10 tanks (so about 10 hrs.?) thru it and it has been running fine. i only took it easy the first tank. After that no holds barred. good luck with the parent health issues and the saw.


----------



## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> At this point I'M almost willing to pick up shipping
> 
> Would save me some hair...


At this point i'm ready to buy him a new used saw with the help of some others here! Anyone got a beat up good runner 60-70 cc?


----------



## cuinrearview (Apr 10, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> At this point i'm ready to buy him a new used saw with the help of some others here! Anyone got a beat up good runner 60-70 cc?


He said he has an 034


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## Daniel Haglund (Apr 10, 2019)

I ordered an MS 362 C-M yesterday. Partly because of this thread! I will perform a compression test as soon as I get it! But it sounds like I might need another compression gauge if it has a smaller spark plug.

40 hours to break in? I'm in the woods only 15 days or so per year and I have several saws. It'll take me years just to break it in...

It will be interesting to compare the new 362 to my older 361. The 361 does not have many hours on it so it is still in great shape. Should be good for a decent comparison.


----------



## grizz55chev (Apr 10, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I ordered an MS 362 C-M yesterday. Partly because of this thread! I will perform a compression test as soon as I get it! But it sounds like I might need another compression gauge if it has a smaller spark plug.
> 
> 40 hours to break in? I'm in the woods only 15 days or so per year and I have several saws. It'll take me years just to break it in...
> 
> It will be interesting to compare the new 362 to my older 361. The 361 does not have many hours on it so it is still in great shape. Should be good for a decent comparison.


Please do not do any modifications before you test it out!


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## cuinrearview (Apr 10, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Please do not do any modifications before you test it out!


What about this spark plug "adapter"


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## Daniel Haglund (Apr 10, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Please do not do any modifications before you test it out!


Nope, I will try it bone stock. It may get a muffler mod later on.


----------



## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I ordered an MS 362 C-M yesterday. Partly because of this thread! I will perform a compression test as soon as I get it! But it sounds like I might need another compression gauge if it has a smaller spark plug.
> 
> 40 hours to break in? I'm in the woods only 15 days or so per year and I have several saws. It'll take me years just to break it in...
> 
> It will be interesting to compare the new 362 to my older 361. The 361 does not have many hours on it so it is still in great shape. Should be good for a decent comparison.


Snap On has the adapter that is a hose with fittings it works for my stuff great. Order the correct thread length measuer a small plug thread depth and compare to the specs on what you buy.. Or I could measure my adapter if you need let me know!


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## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I ordered an MS 362 C-M yesterday. Partly because of this thread! I will perform a compression test as soon as I get it! But it sounds like I might need another compression gauge if it has a smaller spark plug.
> 
> 40 hours to break in? I'm in the woods only 15 days or so per year and I have several saws. It'll take me years just to break it in...
> 
> It will be interesting to compare the new 362 to my older 361. The 361 does not have many hours on it so it is still in great shape. Should be good for a decent comparison.


IDK fo sho but I heard the 362 has better low end torque and the 361 revs better? Not positive of this but wait and see.


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## Daniel Haglund (Apr 10, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Snap On has the adapter that is a hose with fittings it works for my stuff great. Order the correct thread length measuer a small plug thread depth and compare to the specs on what you buy.. Or I could measure my adapter if you need let me know!


Thanks, we have lots of brands here in Sweden but not Snap On unfortunately. But I'll find something that'll work.


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## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> Thanks, we have lots of brands here in Sweden but not Snap On unfortunately. But I'll find something that'll work.


Make sure thew Scrader valve is in the very end.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 10, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Well bud that Schrader valve sure is in question and I am very anxious to see what happens . You need to put it in another good running machine and see if it reads low again. Also that will mean they didn't do the test correct at the shop if they even did!



No... I believe Cascade ran the 4 tests... I know Austin there seems pretty straight honest kid...really what can he say thou. I watched Corvallis do their test and they have the same setup as me. So...your probably correct, I need to check my equipment against a good running machine as suggested. I looked the other day for a 10mm Schrader tester but doesn't look like I can confirm what's out there is correct and has the Schrader in the adapter. I'll probably have to make my own which won't be to bad on collet lathe as long as I can get a tap to match the Schrader threads. I might have to pull valve stem off inter-tube, press fit with some JB weld.


----------



## James Sawyer (Apr 10, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> And then there is that 50.00 shipping?


Stihl would pick up the shipping I would have to package it.


----------



## cuinrearview (Apr 10, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> No... I believe Cascade ran the 4 tests... I know Austin there seems pretty straight honest kid...really what can he say thou. I watched Corvallis do their test and they have the same setup as me. So...your probably correct, I need to check my equipment against a good running machine as suggested. I looked the other day for a 10mm Schrader tester but doesn't look like I can confirm what's out there is correct and has the Schrader in the adapter. I'll probably have to make my own which won't be to bad on collet lathe as long as I can get a tap to match the Schrader threads. I might have to pull valve stem off inter-tube, press fit with some JB weld.


Some good advice here about adapters already available.


----------



## PGK1 (Apr 10, 2019)

I forgot what forum I was on but a couple of weeks ago I had read where a guy had three or four MS462's and the first one he said took 25 tanks for the saw to fully break in which sounded a long time for any motor. The others broke in much quicker, in the end they all ended up running the same. So maybe your saw does need a little more time on it?? I have a new 462 and have only run a couple of tanks thru it, so to early to tell if it gets any better, one thing for sure is these newer saws operate much better at a higher rpm than the old saws.. 




James Sawyer said:


> I contacted JD yesterday with Stihl, He was very helpful and willing to address my concerns. So, there is some EPA regulations Stihl is trying to address but he wouldn't clarify any EPA issues with this model. Pretty much Stihl whole line is under EPA regulation...he was very general. I believe all 2 cycle are experiencing EPA focus now, but that my opinion. Not much was mentioned about the design changes on this MS362 but it should cut better than what I'm experiencing. JD is saying 40 hrs to break in this saw...anyone ever heard of that? I spoke to a buddy that has a falling company in Detroit Oregon area, pretty much he runs a new saw hard 8 hrs and consider it broke-in. That pretty much what my dad did too. JD suggested I run this saw or sent it to him, JJD has a lot test logs all sizes and he'll get to the bottom of this problem. Stihl will either replace my saw or fix it. JD opinion is the chrome cylinder is slick and the rings haven't had enough time to seat. Nothing was confirmed about the compression reading on this saw as being normal or not normal...pretty much the saw should cut better but the reason why is the rings haven't had time to seat. I seriously doubt Stihl will run my saw 40hrs. but bottom line they will fix this saw regardless. I sent a email capturing our conversation to JD plus the history/date around this MS362. I think JD should be aware of what's occurring with his dealer and their awareness to problems such as mine... how these shops are addressing this issues. Plus my concern is some guy buys a new saw and get killed by it due to ..well it not broke in! In my opinion that's a serious concern! I do think there is a serious issue with this saw. I don't know if all new saws are like that, but according to the shop they are! I guess I should have confirmed that comment "all new saws are like this" with JD but I did not. Normally I have a list of questions prior to meeting such this so every thing is captured; however, I totally slammed here at work with equipment upgrade and new equipment installation. We just short staffed here at work and my wife and I are experiencing parent health issues...I just got lot on my mind these last few day. As for Lone Wolf question regarding my compression reading ...my adapter to 10mm does not have a Schrader value built in but the fitting on the end which the adapter treads in to does. So...he could be correct. I just haven't had chance to run a test on my 10mm Stihl weed eater. If I had time I'd machine a fitting and install a Schrader valve but I don't right now.


----------



## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

Cope1024 said:


> Hopefully they would reimburse him or send him a UPS label.


Yes!


----------



## Daniel Haglund (Apr 10, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I ordered an MS 362 C-M yesterday. Partly because of this thread! I will perform a compression test as soon as I get it! But it sounds like I might need another compression gauge if it has a smaller spark plug.
> 
> 40 hours to break in? I'm in the woods only 15 days or so per year and I have several saws. It'll take me years just to break it in...
> 
> It will be interesting to compare the new 362 to my older 361. The 361 does not have many hours on it so it is still in great shape. Should be good for a decent comparison.


Ok. So scratch all this. I placed the order yesterday at a very, very good price point. Just now I received word that their stock was sold out and that I would get a refund. Bummer.


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## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Stihl would pick up the shipping I would have to package it.


good deal then make sure you pack it good so they dont break it1


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## lone wolf (Apr 10, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> Ok. So scratch all this. I placed the order yesterday at a very, very good price point. Just now I received word that their stock was sold out and that I would get a refund. Bummer.


Damn!


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 10, 2019)

You ordered a 362 due to this thread just to see for yourself? This thread would lean me to get a 462, which can cut well out of the box and is a beast once broken in. The only issue is its pushing 1200 bucks after tax


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 10, 2019)

Please no more compression tests either on these 10mm saws either, too much drama, if I was half nuts I'd be tempted to drill it out and retap for bpmr7a to bypass the adapter


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## farmer steve (Apr 10, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> You ordered a 362 due to this thread just to see for yourself? This thread would lean me to get a 462, which can cut well out of the box and is a beast once broken in. The only issue is its pushing 1200 bucks after tax


Damb PA tax sucks!!!


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## Daniel Haglund (Apr 10, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> You ordered a 362 due to this thread just to see for yourself? This thread would lean me to get a 462, which can cut well out of the box and is a beast once broken in. The only issue is its pushing 1200 bucks after tax


Well, I ordered a 362 because I got a really good deal on one. But I am curious to see how it runs and what the compression reading would be. I got another call from the seller and they found another 362 at another location so I may still get one. I'm sure the 462 is a beast but it is expensive! And, I already have an 064 and an 066.


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## holeycow (Apr 10, 2019)

Jftr. My older model MS362 is a Cadillac of a 60cc saw. It is very nice to run with excellent power characteristics and smoooth 

This thread sheds bad light on the 362. They are a proven saw that is quite popular among pros in western Canada for a limbing and smallish timber-falling saw. I don’t know wtf is wrong with James Sawyer’s saw, but that problem is entirely uncharacteristic of MS362’s of only a couple of short years ago..maybe this newest model incarnation is different, idk


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 10, 2019)

True that you could get two barely used 362s for one new 462,


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## James Sawyer (Apr 10, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> You ordered a 362 due to this thread just to see for yourself? This thread would lean me to get a 462, which can cut well out of the box and is a beast once broken in. The only issue is its pushing 1200 bucks after tax



Yes...but its only few 11 oz more then 362.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 10, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> At this point i'm ready to buy him a new used saw with the help of some others here! Anyone got a beat up good runner 60-70 cc?



I think I could find 20 - 30 fairly easily.
Mityvac makes a compression test kit that has the 10 mm hose with the schrader valve in the very end like needed, they are designed for two stroke engines. Check out Mityvac 5530


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## boltonranger (Apr 11, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> JJD has a lot test logs all sizes and he'll get to the bottom of this problem. Stihl will either replace my saw or fix it.



Well I’m VERY happy to hear this. 

You’ve certainly tried to get it sorted out. Let “Uncle Andreas” solve it...

Keep us posted...,


----------



## gyp69 (Apr 11, 2019)

boltonranger said:


> Well I’m VERY happy to hear this.
> 
> You’ve certainly tried to get it sorted out. Let “Uncle Andreas” solve it...
> 
> Keep us posted...,


Man I feel bad for this guy,he may be stuck with a saw he can’t use & has good enough character not to pass on problem to someone else. I am just curious about not pulling muffler l mean if you are careful and don’t tear gasket around outer cover how would dealer even know? Usually on a new saw I tighten all screws a little or at least check them. I had to laugh at former post about Uncle Andreas as my Argentine friends use this same phrase for Adolph.


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## cuinrearview (Apr 11, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> if I was half nuts


This thread'll do that to ya...


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## lone wolf (Apr 11, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> Please no more compression tests either on these 10mm saws either, too much drama, if I was half nuts I'd be tempted to drill it out and retap for bpmr7a to bypass the adapter


You just need the right tester!


----------



## gyp69 (Apr 11, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> You just need the right tester!


I got up at 3:30 this morning & read this whole thread, I believe the O P could sell this saw to a few guys on here who just want the challenge of getting to root of the problem & fixing it lol.


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 11, 2019)

The Saga contiuues!!!


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## Daniel Haglund (Apr 12, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> Ok. So scratch all this. I placed the order yesterday at a very, very good price point. Just now I received word that their stock was sold out and that I would get a refund. Bummer.


Apparently they were able to find another 362 at another location so I now have a brand new MS 362 C-M in my hand. I haven't even put gas in it yet. I wasn't able to find an M10 adapter for my compression tester. It was on back order. So all I can say right now is that the compression feels fine when pulling the cord, but that doesn't mean much.


----------



## motolife313 (Apr 12, 2019)

So have u cut with the new saw yet this morning?


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## PGK1 (Apr 12, 2019)

What's up Moto!? I should have known that you were on this forum with all the milling you have been doing.  This is PGK from weldingweb, I may have to pick your brain on possibly getting into some small scale milling, didn't mean to hijack this thread. I hope James gets his 362 figured out..

Pete


----------



## rwoods (Apr 13, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> ... On their 1st cuts they found the same thing I found, the saw didn't have any power if they loaded the saw the chain would stop. ... .



Today a friend told me his older style MS362 Mtronic was sick - had no power and he asked me to run it. Sure enough any pressure and the motor would lug and the chain would stop. It had a fresh sharp chain. Cranked, idled and ran fine if you kept a slight lift. Left on its own or with any pressure it would quit. He didn’t want to try to recalibrate; he is going to the dealer on Monday. I will report back.



lone wolf said:


> IDK fo sho but I heard the 362 has better low end torque and the 361 revs better? Not positive of this but wait and see.



That has been my experience. I have a 036Pro and a 361. Until recently, I also had two non-M 362s. The 362s definitely had more torque. Also got great fuel usage. The 036 and 361 were very similar and seem to have a higher cutting speed though I have little time on the 361 in stock trim. I had the 361 ported by Terry Landrum. It came back a new animal and is now my go to small saw. I sold the two 362s as I had planned to buy a 462. Holding out for a 500i now. Kept the 036 only because it has been trouble free from day one many years ago - like an old friend.

Ron


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## Daniel Haglund (Apr 14, 2019)

I don't know if this helps the OP. But this is how my new Stihl MS 362 C-M performs after only two tanks of gas.


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## PGK1 (Apr 14, 2019)

Looks like that one is performing great!


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## lone wolf (Apr 14, 2019)

PGK1 said:


> Looks like that one is performing great!


It aint buried in a big log with the whole bar so not sure yet?


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## farmer steve (Apr 14, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> It aint buried in a big log with the whole bar so not sure yet?


That looks like a 241 log.


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## huskihl (Apr 14, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> That looks like a 192t log.


Fixt


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## lone wolf (Apr 14, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> That looks like a 241 log.


My thoughts too.


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## farmer steve (Apr 14, 2019)

huskihl said:


> Fixt


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## PGK1 (Apr 14, 2019)

At least the chain isn't stopping like the ops


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## lone wolf (Apr 14, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I don't know if this helps the OP. But this is how my new Stihl MS 362 C-M performs after only two tanks of gas.
> A compression test might help a bit!


----------



## Daniel Haglund (Apr 14, 2019)

You are totally right of course. The log is too small. But who would run another chainsaw than their brand new one regardless of log size![emoji16]


----------



## lone wolf (Apr 14, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> You are totally right of course. The log is too small. But who would run another chainsaw than their brand new one regardless of log size![emoji16]


What kind of Birch is it ?


----------



## Cope1024 (Apr 14, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I don't know if this helps the OP. But this is how my new Stihl MS 362 C-M performs after only two tanks of gas.




I keep my MS362CM in the backyard shed. When it heard your video it self started. I got there just in time to shut it off before it ate it's bar sheath!


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## rwoods (Apr 14, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I don't know if this helps the OP. But this is how my new Stihl MS 362 C-M performs after only two tanks of gas.




The one I ran Saturday wouldn’t cut like that - as the owner described it, it truly was sick. Ron


----------



## rwoods (Apr 14, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> That looks like a 241 log.



Funny you should mention the 241. My friend with the now sick 362 has as his three saw lineup - 241, 362 and 462. He runs progressively longer bars so it is doubtful that he will ditch the 362 despite the power to weight advantage of the 462.

Ron


----------



## Daniel Haglund (Apr 14, 2019)

PGK1 said:


> Looks like that one is performing great!


It runs great! It bogs down a little when I pull the handle in wood over 12 inches. I would say it runs as expected and that it may pick up a little power after the break in period.


----------



## Daniel Haglund (Apr 14, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> What kind of Birch is it ?


Don't know exactly. We have a few different kinds here in Sweden but this one is by far the most common and we just call it birch. Well, in Swedish it is actually björk.


----------



## huskihl (Apr 15, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> You are totally right of course. The log is too small. But who would run another chainsaw than their brand new one regardless of log size![emoji16]


My 192t comment wasn't in direct reference to you or your 362. Sorry about that. I've made a few 241 vids lately with an 18" bar buried and I knew Steve and shad would chuckle.


----------



## James Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I don't know if this helps the OP. But this is how my new Stihl MS 362 C-M performs after only two tanks of gas.




What chain and are you running????. My saw cuts nothing and I mean nothing like that! I would be so pleased if it did! The second video you showed... if you had my saw the chain would stop 3 to 5 time on the average in a cut like that. I was cutting soft wood Doug fir. ...not a hard wood as you were! You saw right out of the box actually runs good and can cut something. Mine is just a frustration to run, I just hate thought of even running it....its so bad! I thought I'd make effort to run it some more before I sent it to Stihl... JD with Stihl said I could just sent the saw back to him and he would make it right. I still not so sure what right is for Stihl because of what the dealer have said. Boy... if my saw ran like yours I would be so pleased. That's a perfect example of what I think this saw should run like. Can you check the compression for me...I would be so interested in what your getting. Fact If you didn't have a gauge I would ship you mine...just to know what you have?


----------



## kyle.kipple (Apr 15, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> What chain and are you running????. My saw cuts nothing and I mean nothing like that! I would be so pleased if it did! The second video you showed... if you had my saw the chain would stop 3 to 5 time on the average in a cut like that. I was cutting soft wood Doug fir. ...not a hard wood as you were! You saw right out of the box actually runs good and can cut something. Mine is just a frustration to run, I just hate thought of even running it....its so bad! I thought I'd make effort to run it some more before I sent it to Stihl... JD with Stihl said I could just sent the saw back to him and he would make it right. I still not so sure what right is for Stihl because of what the dealer have said. Boy... if my saw ran like yours I would be so pleased. That's a perfect example of what I think this saw should run like. Can you check the compression for me...I would be so interested in what your getting. Fact If you didn't have a gauge I would ship you mine...just to know what you have?



If jd from stihl said send it back to make it right then why in the world haven’t you yet, if in fact you’re that disappointed with it???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shadco (Apr 15, 2019)

huskihl said:


> My 192t comment wasn't in direct reference to you or your 362. Sorry about that. I've made a few 241 vids lately with an 18" bar buried and I knew Steve and shad would chuckle.



Well you crammed so much extra sausage in that 241 that I *have *to go out and buy a bigger bar just to tame it down a little.

Where do I get a .404 bar for it again?

.


----------



## cuinrearview (Apr 15, 2019)

kyle.kipple said:


> If jd from stihl said send it back to make it right then why in the world haven’t you yet


You must be new here


----------



## Daniel Haglund (Apr 15, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> What chain and are you running????. My saw cuts nothing and I mean nothing like that! I would be so pleased if it did! The second video you showed... if you had my saw the chain would stop 3 to 5 time on the average in a cut like that. I was cutting soft wood Doug fir. ...not a hard wood as you were! You saw right out of the box actually runs good and can cut something. Mine is just a frustration to run, I just hate thought of even running it....its so bad! I thought I'd make effort to run it some more before I sent it to Stihl... JD with Stihl said I could just sent the saw back to him and he would make it right. I still not so sure what right is for Stihl because of what the dealer have said. Boy... if my saw ran like yours I would be so pleased. That's a perfect example of what I think this saw should run like. Can you check the compression for me...I would be so interested in what your getting. Fact If you didn't have a gauge I would ship you mine...just to know what you have?



I am running a new Stihl RS chain in the video. I usually run Oregon 75 LPX. They are similar and perform about the same.

Yeah, shipping your gauge to me will take a while and cost more than it's worth since I'm in Sweden.  I was unable to locate the correct adapter for my gauge so I will go out a buy a new gauge just to get this compression question settled once and for all...


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## kyle.kipple (Apr 15, 2019)

cuinrearview said:


> You must be new here



Followed this whole thread from the start. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

Yes, i am also waiting to see what Stihl says when they go over the saw to see what the problem is, although not sure if they would give all the details


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## cuinrearview (Apr 15, 2019)

kyle.kipple said:


> Followed this whole thread from the start.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ah, so your question was rhetorical in nature...


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## farmer steve (Apr 15, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I am running a new Stihl RS chain in the video. I usually run Oregon 75 LPX. They are similar and perform about the same.
> 
> Yeah, shipping your gauge to me will take a while and cost more than it's worth since I'm in Sweden.  I was unable to locate the correct adapter for my gauge so I will go out a buy a new gauge just to get this compression question settled once and for all...


Daniel you look a bit younger than your age in your profile. Hope I look that good at 118.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 15, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I am running a new Stihl RS chain in the video. I usually run Oregon 75 LPX. They are similar and perform about the same.
> 
> Yeah, shipping your gauge to me will take a while and cost more than it's worth since I'm in Sweden.  I was unable to locate the correct adapter for my gauge so I will go out a buy a new gauge just to get this compression question settled once and for all...



My new never started 362cm other than tested at stihl had 150psi.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

James, you are offering to ship your compression tester? So you have the right adapter hose now? If so, what compression are you getting? My new 462 went from 120psi with the hollow (wrong) adapter to 160psi with the correct hose adapter. The other thing i've noticed throughout this whole thread is that farmer steve sure does like a lot of posts.


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## farmer steve (Apr 15, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> James, you are offering to ship your compression tester? So you have the right adapter hose now? If so, what compression are you getting? My new 462 went from 120psi with the hollow (wrong) adapter to 160psi with the correct hose adapter. The other thing i've noticed throughout this whole thread is that farmer steve sure does like a lot of posts.


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## Kostas (Apr 15, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> James, you are offering to ship your compression tester? So you have the right adapter hose now? If so, what compression are you getting? My new 462 went from 120psi with the hollow (wrong) adapter to 160psi with the correct hose adapter. The other thing i've noticed throughout this whole thread is that farmer steve sure does like a lot of posts.



He has recieved a lot of likes so it is good for him to give some of them back to us.


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## rwoods (Apr 15, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> I am running a new Stihl RS chain in the video. I usually run Oregon 75 LPX. They are similar and perform about the same.
> 
> Yeah, shipping your gauge to me will take a while and cost more than it's worth since I'm in Sweden.  I was unable to locate the correct adapter for my gauge so I will go out a buy a new gauge just to get this compression question settled once and for all...



Save your money - nothing on AS is ever settled once and for all. Ron


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## Daniel Haglund (Apr 15, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> That's a perfect example of what I think this saw should run like. Can you check the compression for me...I would be so interested in what your getting. Fact If you didn't have a gauge I would ship you mine...just to know what you have?



So, the verdict is in. My 362 is right at 150 psi after 2 tanks of gas. The tester is probably not the best quality but it seems ok. At least the valve is at the bottom of the long hose.


My 361 came in at 155 - 160 psi. It had 165 psi using my old tester. So it seems to me that my new saw has at least 150 psi of compression and that there is enough information in this thread that Stihl should fix you saw.


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## Daniel Haglund (Apr 15, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> Daniel you look a bit younger than your age in your profile. Hope I look that good at 118.


Looks can be deceiving! I do feel a bit old some days. Usually after a day in the woods. But I had no idea I am this old!!! However that explains the feeling.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> My new never started 362cm other than tested at stihl had 150psi.



Yup that would be expensive... I appreciate the help.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> James, you are offering to ship your compression tester? So you have the right adapter hose now? If so, what compression are you getting? My new 462 went from 120psi with the hollow (wrong) adapter to 160psi with the correct hose adapter. The other thing i've noticed throughout this whole thread is that farmer steve sure does like a lot of posts.



I've always had the adapter (hollow passage type with no Schrader in the 10mm adapter) . On the end of my hose has a fitting with a Schrader, the 10mm adapter threads on to the Schrader fitting on the end of the hose. The gauge has a pressure lease at the gauge. I trust my gauge its a US made compression gauge, but I have to be honest the Schrader fitting has threaded into every thing I've had to test. This is the 1st time I've had to use a adapter. As soon as I get a chance I'm going to install a Schrader into my 10mm adapter. I lucked out the bore in the adapter is smaller then the Schrader tap...so I just need get on the lath and tap the bore and add the valve. I have everything but the time to get into the machine shop. The Schrader tap is tough to get a hold of, they are expensive...non standard threads. I hope what I have will work. The 10mm adapter I have is brass so shouldn't be to bad. I just bought one of those all propose valve stem tool which has the tap, I figure it should be good for at least this one bore. It appears that's what a lot people have been doing on my research trying to find a Schrader tap. The bore in my adapter isn't that big so I can image it changing my compression that much.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

Daniel Haglund said:


> So, the verdict is in. My 362 is right at 150 psi after 2 tanks of gas. The tester is probably not the best quality but it seems ok. At least the valve is at the bottom of the long hose.
> View attachment 730389
> 
> My 361 came in at 155 - 160 psi. It had 165 psi using my old tester. So it seems to me that my new saw has at least 150 psi of compression and that there is enough information in this thread that Stihl should fix you saw.



Well I get 110 psi hot, both shops that ran test get 110psi hot, only one shop ran a cold compression test and it was 120PSI cold...110psi hot. My saw I would say only had about a tank of fuel ran thru it... my hour meter show 1 hour total run time on the saw. I've never added fuel. The shop of purchase filled it, tuned it...this fuel was what I've ran the saw on cutting two trees. The second shop dump this fuel...they didn't like it said it smelled funny, Any way they re-fueled my saw and I ran my test cuts on this fuel. I will need to fuel the saw next time I run it. The shop of purchase has a very similar gauge to mine, the second shop I have no idea what they have.


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## gyp69 (Apr 15, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Well I get 110 psi hot, both shops that ran test get 110psi hot, only one shop ran a cold compression test and it was 120PSI cold...110psi hot. My saw I would say only had about a tank of fuel ran thru it... my hour meter show 1 hour total run time on the saw. I've never added fuel. The shop of purchase filled it, tuned it...this fuel was what I've ran the saw on cutting two trees. The second shop dump this fuel...they didn't like it said it smelled funny, Any way they re-fueled my saw and I ran my test cuts on this fuel. I will need to fuel the saw next time I run it. The shop of purchase has a very similar gauge to mine, the second shop I have no idea what they have.


Do you have the saw or does Stihl shop still have saw?


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## SteveSr (Apr 15, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I've always had the adapter (hollow passage type with no Schrader in the 10mm adapter) . On the end of my hose has a fitting with a Schrader, the 10mm adapter threads on to the Schrader fitting on the end of the hose. The gauge has a pressure lease at the gauge. I trust my gauge its a US made compression gauge, but I have to be honest the Schrader fitting has threaded into every thing I've had to test. This is the 1st time I've had to use a adapter. As soon as I get a chance I'm going to install a Schrader into my 10mm adapter. I lucked out the bore in the adapter is smaller then the Schrader tap...so I just need get on the lath and tap the bore and add the valve. I have everything but the time to get into the machine shop. The Schrader tap is tough to get a hold of, they are expensive...non standard threads. I hope what I have will work. The 10mm adapter I have is brass so shouldn't be to bad. I just bought one of those all propose valve stem tool which has the tap, I figure it should be good for at least this one bore. It appears that's what a lot people have been doing on my research trying to find a Schrader tap. The bore in my adapter isn't that big so I can image it changing my compression that much.



Instead of adding a schrader to your existing adapter which isn't tremendously easy as you not only have to tap the threads for the valve and then you must machine the correct seat for the valve. If you look at any schrader valve (old bicycle tube) you'll find the seat is part of the valve stem. See photo below...

An easier option would be to fill your existing adapter up with JB weld or other epoxy and then drill a 1/16" hole through the epoxy. This would allow airflow and reduce the excess volume considerably.


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## SteveSr (Apr 15, 2019)

Here is the correct adapter (DTT-2312) ... and where to get it:

https://www.tinytach.com/chainsaw-tools

Here is what it looks like:


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## stihlaficionado (Apr 15, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> James, you are offering to ship your compression tester? So you have the right adapter hose now? If so, what compression are you getting? My new 462 went from 120psi with the hollow (wrong) adapter to 160psi with the correct hose adapter. The other thing i've noticed throughout this whole thread is that farmer steve sure does like a lot of posts.


Watching FS "Like" posts is better than reading a lot of the threads , except oil threads & stuff like this one


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 15, 2019)

SteveSr said:


> Instead of adding a schrader to your existing adapter which isn't tremendously easy as you not only have to tap the threads for the valve and then you must machine the correct seat for the valve. If you look at any schrader valve (old bicycle tube) you'll find the seat is part of the valve stem. See photo below...
> 
> An easier option would be to fill your existing adapter up with JB weld or other epoxy and then drill a 1/16" hole through the epoxy. This would allow airflow and reduce the excess volume considerably.



Did you just do this cutaway? Cool if you did


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## lone wolf (Apr 15, 2019)

Well this is taking a while!


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## lone wolf (Apr 15, 2019)

OP where are we at with this thing now?


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## SteveSr (Apr 15, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Did you just do this cutaway? Cool if you did


I did this some time ago for the "other" forum where we had a discussion about compression testers. The schrader has to be leak-free or you are wasting your time. The best way to prove this is to remove any other schraders inline. That way you are only using the one closest to the cylinder.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

gyp69 said:


> Do you have the saw or does Stihl shop still have saw?



I have my saw back I haven't shiped it yet. I thought I'd run a few tanks thru see if it get better that way Stihl can't say I haven't real tried. But it's so frustrating to run... I just hate running it.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

SteveSr said:


> Instead of adding a schrader to your existing adapter which isn't tremendously easy as you not only have to tap the threads for the valve and then you must machine the correct seat for the valve. If you look at any schrader valve (old bicycle tube) you'll find the seat is part of the valve stem. See photo below...
> 
> An easier option would be to fill your existing adapter up with JB weld or other epoxy and then drill a 1/16" hole through the epoxy. This would allow airflow and reduce the excess volume considerably.




I know that why I tried to take a valve stem and turn it down to standard size and do a press fit. The piece I tried to use was a brass stem and I tried to part it off holding it in a collet but it just sheared off. I had a second one ...that's when I noticed I could just install the Schrader. But I could have trouble... I should just by the mightvac gauge.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 15, 2019)

I would just send it to Stihl right away, or are you trying to keep us in suspense on what the cause is? I don't think its the compression but i do understand your desire to record the most accurate reading...you just need that correct adapter on that tiny tack site that Steve forwarded, its cheaper than any other option i have seen. Then either take the schrader out of the hose you have to temporarily to check the compression on that 10mm plug, or use another hose off a different tester if you have more than one. Or is the saw starting to loosen up after running a few more tanks? It may still need many more hours if it started super tight.


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## gyp69 (Apr 16, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> I would just send it to Stihl right away, or are you trying to keep us in suspense on what the cause is? I don't think its the compression but i do understand your desire to record the most accurate reading...you just need that correct adapter on that tiny tack site that Steve forwarded, its cheaper than any other option i have seen. Then either take the schrader out of the hose you have to temporarily to check the compression on that 10mm plug, or use another hose off a different tester if you have more than one. Or is the saw starting to loosen up after running a few more tanks? It may still need many more hours if it started super tight.


I wouldn’t do anymore compression tests, I would keep going up the ladder until you talk to someone at stihl who can make this right! Your saw is most definitely underpowered & you should be able to fall & buck small diameter Doug fir with correct bar & I believe you said square ground chain , it should not stop in the cut even during breakin, you got a lemon you should be able to just go and use saw not be taking compression tests on new saw! I have been loyal to stihl brand for some yrs. I bought a 461 in 2015 and it would leak gas down on the footpad of tank even before I ran it, bought in Co & I was in another town called them & they said they had never heard of anything like that took it to stihl shop and they put a new tank vent in it & said that it was fixed I knew this was bulls-t,they also scratched & got black grit all over bottom of new saw,I called back to dealer in Co & by that time it was known that Stihl had recalled 461 for wrong fuel line, they said to take it back to stihl dealer I had previously used I said no mail me the correct fuel line & I will do it myself. First& last time for warranty work. This took a few months so I know your frustration, saw has been flawless since then! Did you ask to upgrade to 462 I can’t remember if you did this, I believe you would be very happy with 462 if they would take your saw back & reimburse you on trade.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 16, 2019)

SteveSr said:


> Here is the correct adapter (DTT-2312) ... and where to get it:
> 
> https://www.tinytach.com/chainsaw-tools
> 
> Here is what it looks like:



Thank-you order the adapter 14mm to 10mm $15 plus shipping


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## James Sawyer (Apr 16, 2019)

gyp69 said:


> I wouldn’t do anymore compression tests, I would keep going up the ladder until you talk to someone at stihl who can make this right! Your saw is most definitely underpowered & you should be able to fall & buck small diameter Doug fir with correct bar & I believe you said square ground chain , it should not stop in the cut even during breakin, you got a lemon you should be able to just go and use saw not be taking compression tests on new saw! I have been loyal to stihl brand for some yrs. I bought a 461 in 2015 and it would leak gas down on the footpad of tank even before I ran it, bought in Co & I was in another town called them & they said they had never heard of anything like that took it to stihl shop and they put a new tank vent in it & said that it was fixed I knew this was bulls-t,they also scratched & got black grit all over bottom of new saw,I called back to dealer in Co & by that time it was known that Stihl had recalled 461 for wrong fuel line, they said to take it back to stihl dealer I had previously used I said no mail me the correct fuel line & I will do it myself. First& last time for warranty work. This took a few months so I know your frustration, saw has been flawless since then! Did you ask to upgrade to 462 I can’t remember if you did this, I believe you would be very happy with 462 if they would take your saw back & reimburse you on trade.



yes...I was so frustrated after getting it back from the second shop and run that saw cutting multiple cookies with two different bar length 20" and 25". After seeing what my 034 cut right beside it, this saw sucks. The next day I took it to the shop of purchase just to have them tell me that's how all the new Stihl's run period! I was willing to trade this saw in for a used saw price on a 462, they told me they wouldn't sell me a new saw nor did they want my saw period! As far as I concern this saw was worth nothing to them at any price, with them being unwilling to make any attempt to make this right or sell me a new saw... even if I ate this saw pretty much says I'm have unreasonable expectation. I offer the second shop this saw as a used saw purchase on different saw and they never called me back which they said they would once the owner was back in the shop...pretty much says the same thing. Granted JD the Stihl regional manager was out of the office at the time for over a week, may have something to do with it. But they should have still called me. I still believe if I sent this saw to Stihl it won't be fixed I don't see a regional manager (he did say he would personally check this saw out) run my saw for 40 hrs as he said is the time it takes to break in a new saw. I asked a cutter buddy of mine what he experience was on new saw break in and he's never seen this nor experienced anything like I have. I going to go look at a 361 today which is almost new, the guy bought... it cut up two trees hasn't used it since. If so I'll sent this saw to Stihl...but I believe at this point I'm stuck with this saw forever and I'm out $1000. I already pulled the dwg off and my oiler. So for $1000 I got a light 25" bar and chain and the rest is worthless unless Stihl actually does something...not holding my breath. At this point I have no faith in this saw , it dangerous I my opinion! I won't cut with it. I'm just pretty discussed over the whole thing, and I don't believe it will ever be right. If this 361 is any good. I'll sent this saw to Stihl stop wasting my time, If they do something or not I'm out of this saw and it can sit in the barn. I'm that upset over this whole thing!


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## lone wolf (Apr 16, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> yes...I was so frustrated after getting it back from the second shop and run that saw cutting multiple cookies with two different bar length 20" and 25". After seeing what my 034 cut right beside it, this saw sucks. The next day I took it to the shop of purchase just to have them tell me that's how all the new Stihl's run period! I was willing to trade this saw in for a used saw price on a 462, they told me they wouldn't sell me a new saw nor did they want my saw period! As far as I concern this saw was worth nothing to them at any price, with them being unwilling to make any attempt to make this right or sell me a new saw... even if I ate this saw pretty much says I'm have unreasonable expectation. I offer the second shop this saw as a used saw purchase on different saw and they never called me back which they said they would once the owner was back in the shop...pretty much says the same thing. Granted JD the Stihl regional manager was out of the office at the time for over a week, may have something to do with it. But they should have still called me. I still believe if I sent this saw to Stihl it won't be fixed I don't see a regional manager (he did say he would personally check this saw out) run my saw for 40 hrs as he said is the time it takes to break in a new saw. I asked a cutter buddy of mine what he experience was on new saw break in and he's never seen this nor experienced anything like I have. I going to go look at a 361 today which is almost new, the guy bought... it cut up two trees hasn't used it since. If so I'll sent this saw to Stihl...but I believe at this point I'm stuck with this saw forever and I'm out $1000. I already pulled the dwg off and my oiler. So for $1000 I got a light 25" bar and chain and the rest is worthless unless Stihl actually does something...not holding my breath. At this point I have no faith in this saw , it dangerous I my opinion! I won't cut with it. I'm just pretty discussed over the whole thing, and I don't believe it will ever be right. If this 361 is any good. I'll sent this saw to Stihl stop wasting my time, If they do something or not I'm out of this saw and it can sit in the barn. I'm that upset over this whole thing!


There are guys on here that can fix it if all else fails


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## kyle.kipple (Apr 16, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> yes...I was so frustrated after getting it back from the second shop and run that saw cutting multiple cookies with two different bar length 20" and 25". After seeing what my 034 cut right beside it, this saw sucks. The next day I took it to the shop of purchase just to have them tell me that's how all the new Stihl's run period! I was willing to trade this saw in for a used saw price on a 462, they told me they wouldn't sell me a new saw nor did they want my saw period! As far as I concern this saw was worth nothing to them at any price, with them being unwilling to make any attempt to make this right or sell me a new saw... even if I ate this saw pretty much says I'm have unreasonable expectation. I offer the second shop this saw as a used saw purchase on different saw and they never called me back which they said they would once the owner was back in the shop...pretty much says the same thing. Granted JD the Stihl regional manager was out of the office at the time for over a week, may have something to do with it. But they should have still called me. I still believe if I sent this saw to Stihl it won't be fixed I don't see a regional manager (he did say he would personally check this saw out) run my saw for 40 hrs as he said is the time it takes to break in a new saw. I asked a cutter buddy of mine what he experience was on new saw break in and he's never seen this nor experienced anything like I have. I going to go look at a 361 today which is almost new, the guy bought... it cut up two trees hasn't used it since. If so I'll sent this saw to Stihl...but I believe at this point I'm stuck with this saw forever and I'm out $1000. I already pulled the dwg off and my oiler. So for $1000 I got a light 25" bar and chain and the rest is worthless unless Stihl actually does something...not holding my breath. At this point I have no faith in this saw , it dangerous I my opinion! I won't cut with it. I'm just pretty discussed over the whole thing, and I don't believe it will ever be right. If this 361 is any good. I'll sent this saw to Stihl stop wasting my time, If they do something or not I'm out of this saw and it can sit in the barn. I'm that upset over this whole thing!



You’re unbelievable. 
If what you’ve posted in this thread is the truth then you’re a fool for not sending it to JD. regardless if you think he will run it for 40 hours or not. It’s the best option you’ve received from anyone. But you’re still persistent on keeping a saw “that disgusts you when running it” 

Unfollowing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lone wolf (Apr 16, 2019)

kyle.kipple said:


> You’re unbelievable.
> If what you’ve posted in this thread is the truth then you’re a fool for not sending it to JD. regardless if you think he will run it for 40 hours or not. It’s the best option you’ve received from anyone. But you’re still persistent on keeping a saw “that disgusts you when running it”
> 
> Unfollowing!
> ...


I can believe what he posted! He should send it to Stihl at their cost no doubt! After that if no satisfaction I my self personally would send it to someone on here who knows that model well, get to the root cause ,fix it,document it and throw it back in Stihls face! If it was a 200 T, I would have it running already!


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## Bwildered (Apr 16, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> yes...I was so frustrated after getting it back from the second shop and run that saw cutting multiple cookies with two different bar length 20" and 25". After seeing what my 034 cut right beside it, this saw sucks. The next day I took it to the shop of purchase just to have them tell me that's how all the new Stihl's run period! I was willing to trade this saw in for a used saw price on a 462, they told me they wouldn't sell me a new saw nor did they want my saw period! As far as I concern this saw was worth nothing to them at any price, with them being unwilling to make any attempt to make this right or sell me a new saw... even if I ate this saw pretty much says I'm have unreasonable expectation. I offer the second shop this saw as a used saw purchase on different saw and they never called me back which they said they would once the owner was back in the shop...pretty much says the same thing. Granted JD the Stihl regional manager was out of the office at the time for over a week, may have something to do with it. But they should have still called me. I still believe if I sent this saw to Stihl it won't be fixed I don't see a regional manager (he did say he would personally check this saw out) run my saw for 40 hrs as he said is the time it takes to break in a new saw. I asked a cutter buddy of mine what he experience was on new saw break in and he's never seen this nor experienced anything like I have. I going to go look at a 361 today which is almost new, the guy bought... it cut up two trees hasn't used it since. If so I'll sent this saw to Stihl...but I believe at this point I'm stuck with this saw forever and I'm out $1000. I already pulled the dwg off and my oiler. So for $1000 I got a light 25" bar and chain and the rest is worthless unless Stihl actually does something...not holding my breath. At this point I have no faith in this saw , it dangerous I my opinion! I won't cut with it. I'm just pretty discussed over the whole thing, and I don't believe it will ever be right. If this 361 is any good. I'll sent this saw to Stihl stop wasting my time, If they do something or not I'm out of this saw and it can sit in the barn. I'm that upset over this whole thing!


Seeing you can't take a video of you cutting with it, get someone independent who knows their shite to give it a go cutting a log & see what they say.


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## gyp69 (Apr 16, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> There are guys on here that can fix it if all else fails[/
> 
> 
> lone wolf said:
> ...


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## SEAM (Apr 16, 2019)

I am out of here... I figured the problem was solved after approaching a Stihl person that cares. I can only assume the OP enjoys hating this saw.


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## farmer steve (Apr 16, 2019)

I posted the email addy of a corporate technical person who responded to an email I sent them about James saw. Not sure if James followed up or not. I know [email protected] well I would have. You can lead a horse to water................


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## nighthunter (Apr 16, 2019)

To the op, I know how you feel, I bought a 880 last July/August. Its being plagued by carb issues which the dealer indicates is my fault, really after 13 tanks of fuel, stihl customers service sucks bigtime. What's quite funny is that I've been running saws longer than that dealers been in business


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## James Sawyer (Apr 16, 2019)

I'm going to send this 362 to JD regardless, with all that I've tried to get Stihl and these shops to deal with this.. have no faith in getting this saw working right. I just don't believe it will ever be right. So...run this 40 hours and I gain maybe 10 to 15psi ...so I have a 125psi saw at best. The shops have 5 compression test on this saw...5! So...why didn't they just say let me call the regional manager and send this saw to Stihl even JD says this saw need ran more for what I hear 10 to 15psi more compression. Several other have posted what they have on their saws it not 110psi and their saws don't stop. So, how can I trust this saw as is ...its not going to get any better. Stihl going run this saw and say I just need to run it more pretty much is what I think they will do...it should stop in a 15" cut due to chip load. Even the 2nd shop says that! They ran this saw and admit it stops...but again they sent me home with this junk. The more I think about this and what other have posted and my experience with these dealer. I think they did talk to JD and that's what they were told, I don't know that for sure but that's I think. Why did the second shop change their tune so fast about the compression. The more people on this site post about their saws and from the video i saw on this site and from what JD said...they just going to run this saw, and tell me I need to run it 40 hours to break it in. The more I think about this my belief .. Stihl are going to run this saw and just sent it back. I have a chance to buy 361 with maybe 3 hours on it for $500. I know this 361 saw will run. I'll send this saw to JD but I don't think they will ever do much with it. I don't need a 462 ... I have 460 that run just fine does what I want. I want a 11-12lb saw but I really don't want another 362 after this one. I can get a lighter saw with the 361 over the 362 and it will work...that I'm sure of. I'm just so discussed about this 362 after I ran it on those cookie cuts, the next day I would taken almost anything to get out of this saw its that bad. JD said sent the saw to him...that's what I going to do...you know I'm customer that buys a lot of Stihl saws. The 1st shop or the 2nd shop really cares that is the plain truth...what make me think JD does. If I can get something that runs, I just hate running this saw.


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## davhul (Apr 16, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> I'm going to send this 362 to JD regardless, with all that I've tried to get Stihl and these shops to deal with this.. have no faith in getting this saw working right. I just don't believe it will ever be right. So...run this 40 hours and I gain maybe 10 to 15psi ...so I have a 125psi saw at best. The shops have 5 compression test on this saw...5! So...why didn't they just say let me call the regional manager and send this saw to Stihl even JD says this saw need ran more for what I hear 10 to 15psi more compression. Several other have posted what they have on their saws it not 110psi and their saws don't stop. So, how can I trust this saw as is ...its not going to get any better. Stihl going run this saw and say I just need to run it more pretty much is what I think they will do...it should stop in a 15" cut due to chip load. Even the 2nd shop says that! They ran this saw and admit it stops...but again they sent me home with this junk. The more I think about this and what other have posted and my experience with these dealer. I think they did talk to JD and that's what they were told, I don't know that for sure but that's I think. Why did the second shop change their tune so fast about the compression. The more people on this site post about their saws and from the video i saw on this site and from what JD said...they just going to run this saw, and tell me I need to run it 40 hours to break it in. The more I think about this my belief .. Stihl are going to run this saw and just sent it back. I have a chance to buy 361 with maybe 3 hours on it for $500. I know this 361 saw will run. I'll send this saw to JD but I don't think they will ever do much with it. I don't need a 462 ... I have 460 that run just fine does what I want. I want a 11-12lb saw but I really don't want another 362 after this one. I can get a lighter saw with the 361 over the 362 and it will work...that I'm sure of. I'm just so discussed about this 362 after I ran it on those cookie cuts, the next day I would taken almost anything to get out of this saw its that bad. JD said sent the saw to him...that's what I going to do...you know I'm customer that buys a lot of Stihl saws. The 1st shop or the 2nd shop really cares that is the plain truth...what make me think JD does. If I can get something that runs, I just hate running this saw.



The 5 compression test are null if they were using the wrong tester like stated. Post a vid. The problem could be a simple fix with a fresh set of eyes and ears.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 16, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> I can believe what he posted! He should send it to Stihl at their cost no doubt! After that if no satisfaction I my self personally would send it to someone on here who knows that model well, get to the root cause ,fix it,document it and throw it back in Stihls face! If it was a 200 T, I would have it running already!



If I had it for a half hour it would be either fixed or would know what needed to be done to fix it. These things are just simple mechanical devices, once a sound methodical diagnosis is done any fault will be found whether its a mechanical or electrical issue its not rocket science. Still I think the saw should go back to Stihl corp for a proper diagnosis, if they can`t figure this out they have no business building saws. I have been following this thread from its start and posted a few times, one thing I did not see addressed is if the oiler is working well enough to oil the bars sufficiently or if the bars oil passage to the chain channel had been drilled out to allow enough oil flow to prevent the chain from jamming. I have to drill every new bar I get in now as the hole is less than 1/16 dia and usually partially clogged with paint. Drill them out to 7/64" and they oil fine, if not the chain and bar heat up and sticks bad enough to stall the clutch.


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## gyp69 (Apr 16, 2019)

Oh well I think I’m outta here as well, still wish the OP luck.gotta say I’ve had dang good luck with my 461’s! see you guys on another thread somewhere,he put a 462 Oiler on saw at purchase, these oilers have little pin you can ping in & it makes it a h.o. Oiler


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## Ronaldo (Apr 16, 2019)

If Stihl corporate or someone there has offered to take the saw and get this taken care of for you, I'm not sure why you are still talking about it and how disappointed you are. GET THE SAW SENT!

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 16, 2019)

gyp69 said:


> Oh well I think I’m outta here as well, still wish the OP luck.gotta say I’ve had dang good luck with my 461’s! see you guys on another thread somewhere,he put a 462 Oiler on saw at purchase, these oilers have little pin you can ping in & it makes it a h.o. Oiler



Bingo, and i thought it was possibly carb or ignition problem, there is too much bar oil causing a build up of debris and sawdust to bind up the bar and stall, then the motor with good compression spins the clutch, smoking the drum, , and gets going again if he shakes it out. There it is folks.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 16, 2019)

This thread is almost a month old, and still counting! Someone needs attention.


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## Derrick Sawyer (Apr 16, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> This thread is almost a month old, and still counting! Someone needs attention.



You are right, our wives need more attention since we have been following this thread on the edge of our seat for 24/7


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## grizz55chev (Apr 16, 2019)

Derrick Sawyer said:


> You are right, our wives need more attention since we have been following this thread on the edge of our seat for 24/7


Went fishing yesterday, came home and checked my notifications, status on this thread, the same! I’m guessing I can do the same next week.


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## boltonranger (Apr 16, 2019)

Jerry makes a good point. 
Is the saw slinging oil off the bar tip?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 16, 2019)

boltonranger said:


> Jerry makes a good point.
> Is the saw slinging oil off the bar tip?



From the early posts I was caught up in the low compression numbers and was just thinking along those lines but as the compression senario has played out and its most likely to be found to be higher when tested with the proper tool I now am thinking there might be a problem with the chain and bar. I myself have gone through a dozen or more new bars that have too small oil holes from the factory, these bars required me to drill them out to get adequate flow to the chain channel. The short bars, 14 - 16 would barely work but bars from 18" on up would not allow enough oil in to the drivers to keep the chain lubed and cooled, the chain would bind and the clutch would stall and smoke, the bar would be too hot to hold onto. Drill out the holes to 7/64 and problem solved, I now drill every new bar right off but did give a new GB bar a chance this weekend past, same result, not enough oil getting to the chain and it bound up in a 20" hardwood cut. Drilled it out right after getting back home, had other saws with me so was not a total waste of a trip out cutting.


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## PGK1 (Apr 16, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> From the early posts I was caught up in the low compression numbers and was just thinking along those lines but as the compression senario has played out and its most likely to be found to be higher when tested with the proper tool I now am thinking there might be a problem with the chain and bar. I myself have gone through a dozen or more new bars that have too small oil holes from the factory, these bars required me to drill them out to get adequate flow to the chain channel. The short bars, 14 - 16 would barely work but bars from 18" on up would not allow enough oil in to the drivers to keep the chain lubed and cooled, the chain would bind and the clutch would stall and smoke, the bar would be too hot to hold onto. Drill out the holes to 7/64 and problem solved, I now drill every new bar right off but did give a new GB bar a chance this weekend past, same result, not enough oil getting to the chain and it bound up in a 20" hardwood cut. Drilled it out right after getting back home, had other saws with me so was not a total waste of a trip out cutting.


 
+1 On that bar oiler holes being on the small side I have only had a my MS462 for a short while now but noticed on the 20 " and 25" bars ran on the warm side and the chain when rotated by hand was on the loud side. After squirting a couple of drops of oil in the bar it quieted right down. After taking the bar off and attempting to clear the oiler holes in the bar I was amazed at how small they are, I think I'll take your advise on drilling them out. Thanks

Pete


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 16, 2019)

PGK1 said:


> +1 On that bar oiler holes being on the small side I have only had a my MS462 for a short while now but noticed on the 20 " and 25" bars ran on the warm side and the chain when rotated by hand was on the loud side. After squirting a couple of drops of oil in the bar it quieted right down. After taking the bar off and attempting to clear the oiler holes in the bar I was amazed at how small they are, I think I'll take your advise on drilling them out. Thanks
> 
> Pete


 I would if I were you , I run mostly Stihl bars but this last one was a new GB, seems all new bars have these tiny oil port holes and if the bar is painted as most are the paint makes the hole so tiny its less than 1/16 " , the smallest amount of sawdust plugs them up. Drilling them out takes no special tools, just a good quality HSS drill bit and a drill, takes less than 30 seconds per side and they don`t clog easily after, plenty of oil flow out to 32" on my 066`s.


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## lone wolf (Apr 16, 2019)

davhul said:


> The 5 compression test are null if they were using the wrong tester like stated. Post a vid. The problem could be a simple fix with a fresh set of eyes and ears.


I keep telling him that and am waiting for a proper known c librated tester to test it!


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## James Sawyer (Apr 17, 2019)

davhul said:


> The 5 compression test are null if they were using the wrong tester like stated. Post a vid. The problem could be a simple fix with a fresh set of eyes and ears.



Well the test runs I did aren't null and both shops tests aren't null. This whole thing has just been eating at me a lot. When I talked to JD I thought well maybe Stihl is right I just need to run it more so I kept the saw. Its been raining like a mother here plus flooding and with all that going on with our parents I just haven't had time to run this saw! I see on here some one buys a new saw off the shelve and cuts like that with the same chain I have in hardwood...you know that kind of upsetting the more I think how these shops just pass this saw back. Knowing how my 362 cuts just makes me really upset! Then I found this nearly new MS361 the more I thought about it the more I decide that would be better. JD did tell me Stihl not going to give me a new saw and take this one back. I've been thinking about this a lot, I'd have put $400 plus to upgrade to MS462 which I don't need , the 1st shop showed me a 362 with the same compression. At this point I just need sent the saw to JD, maybe Stihl will put new cylinder on. After thinking about this I spent $500 now and I have something I can use. I keep thinking about how tough is it to cut a slabs off 15" log that canterlevered off the ground. Your kid could do that! I don't need a compression release to start this 362 , I can't even tell the difference with it on or off starting this saw. I just mad about this whole thing. I'm sending this saw to JD and I keep thinking about these shops...two different business. Both these shops aren't willing do anything. I was really proud of this MS362 when I bought it. Spent the time and money just to get it how I wanted it to be. Yes I was should have ran it within 7 days of purchase... lesson learned. I have no guarantee sending this saw to JD. My saw is all cleaned up and ready, I going send this bar and chain as requested plus a new Stihl chain. I hope to have it ready to ship by the Friday...Saturday at the latest. The more I thinking about this I do believe Austin at Cascade called JD. I'm going have Austin ship it back to Stihl and I'm going ask him if he did. Yes I did have the email ready to forward to the address forward by a member on this site. I type up the whole history with names, phone numbers and dates. JD did said sent him the saw so I didn't see the point sending the email to the other contact. I did sent a copy of the history to JD plus address to this post, because I thought he should know about how these shops are dealing with problem as a business concern. With JD not seen my saw I can't expect much from it but I did forward it to JD. I don't have a good way to do a video other than my phone. I have no way of hold my phone...I guess I could cut kerf in round and set my phone it that. Believe me... you all know a child can cut slabs off 15" log, It's a 60 cc saw! Who can't cut a 15" log off with 60 cc saw. The second shop should have sent this saw to JD from the start. Why didn't they...they saw the problem, they ran the compression tests...5 of them. They are Stihl dealer they should have the skills and the tools....yes it simple. The test cuts they ran prove my point. Why give me the run around...the advice and post on here just prove this saw has a problem. Yesterday I just got caught up in how a 362 should run, my wife mom going in care home, in out of the hospital these last few weeks and we have another parent going into Hospice! Its been raining and Flooding here plus I have big equipment upgrade at work so I really haven't had time to deal with this saw. Yes I've had multiple private offer to fix this saw. Fact there a guy's 40 miles from me offered, I even got prices from him and I know he can fix it! I keep thinking I'm going have more money in saw I shouldn't have too and no warranty. The more I think about it I really don't have a guarantee from Stihl this will be resolve, but I do know I need sent them the saw to give them the chance. If you read this post I've been really careful about doing the right thing, maybe I should have just sent the saw to JD right after I spoke to him. I did have a nice conversation with JD, fact a couple and I thought instead of just sending it off I really should try running it some more... I just haven't had time. Right now with what I got going on... its going to be awhile before I can. So I'm going to box this saw up and send it to JD this week. But...here an offer to the members here on this site, because I serious about this problem I have with this 362. If someone want to pick up my saw and run it give their evaluation back to this group I willing! Anyone, on web site can say anything... you don't know me from Adam, you all have tried to help. I sorry if I'm haven't just jump on all the advice as it was given. I'm just a home owner with a little bit of ground and I have lot other thing going on and I have tried to do the right thing. If someone want to run this saw and they can give reference from a couple people on here I would be more than happy to let them take this saw and run it. You all seem like nice helpful people and I do appreciate the advice. I'll provide the fuel, the original bar and chain plus another new chain. The question about compression or what it is really isn't the point the point... it how this saw runs, its not question about my skills or my word or anything in that line. Its how this saw preforms ...does this saw run right or does it really have a problem. If some wants to make arrangements before Friday then great, We'll let the group know what happening. Otherwise by Friday this saw getting dropped off at Cascade for shipment to JD. I did not mean to upset people on here, yes this has been going on along time but their are other reason why. I think my offer is fair to everyone who has tried to help, it only fair for those people get the answers they need! I honestly I think that is right thing to do at this point! If this group thinks they can find someone they trust that live near Lebanon, Oregon 97355, I'm in Corvallis Monday thru Friday or some where close that wants to run this saw...I think that is more than fair to this group.


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## lone wolf (Apr 17, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Well the test runs I did aren't null and both shops tests aren't null. This whole thing has just been eating at me a lot. When I talked to JD I thought well maybe Stihl is right I just need to run it more so I kept the saw. Its been raining like a mother here plus flooding and with all that going on with our parents I just haven't had time to run this saw! I see on here some one buys a new saw off the shelve and cuts like that with the same chain I have in hardwood...you know that kind of upsetting the more I think how these shops just pass this saw back. Knowing how my 362 cuts just makes me really upset! Then I found this nearly new MS361 the more I thought about it the more I decide that would be better. JD did tell me Stihl not going to give me a new saw and take this one back. I've been thinking about this a lot, I'd have put $400 plus to upgrade to MS462 which I don't need , the 1st shop showed me a 362 with the same compression. At this point I just need sent the saw to JD, maybe Stihl will put new cylinder on. After thinking about this I spent $500 now and I have something I can use. I keep thinking about how tough is it to cut a slabs off 15" log that canterlevered off the ground. Your kid could do that! I don't need a compression release to start this 362 , I can't even tell the difference with it on or off starting this saw. I just mad about this whole thing. I'm sending this saw to JD and I keep thinking about these shops...two different business. Both these shops aren't willing do anything. I was really proud of this MS362 when I bought it. Spent the time and money just to get it how I wanted it to be. Yes I was should have ran it within 7 days of purchase... lesson learned. I have no guarantee sending this saw to JD. My saw is all cleaned up and ready, I going send this bar and chain as requested plus a new Stihl chain. I hope to have it ready to ship by the Friday...Saturday at the latest. The more I thinking about this I do believe Austin at Cascade called JD. I'm going have Austin ship it back to Stihl and I'm going ask him if he did. Yes I did have the email ready to forward to the address forward by a member on this site. I type up the whole history with names, phone numbers and dates. JD did said sent him the saw so I didn't see the point sending the email to the other contact. I did sent a copy of the history to JD plus address to this post, because I thought he should know about how these shops are dealing with problem as a business concern. With JD not seen my saw I can't expect much from it but I did forward it to JD. I don't have a good way to do a video other than my phone. I have no way of hold my phone...I guess I could cut kerf in round and set my phone it that. Believe me... you all know a child can cut slabs off 15" log, It's a 60 cc saw! Who can't cut a 15" log off with 60 cc saw. The second shop should have sent this saw to JD from the start. Why didn't they...they saw the problem, they ran the compression tests...5 of them. They are Stihl dealer they should have the skills and the tools....yes it simple. The test cuts they ran prove my point. Why give me the run around...the advice and post on here just prove this saw has a problem. Yesterday I just got caught up in how a 362 should run, my wife mom going in care home, in out of the hospital these last few weeks and we have another parent going into Hospice! Its been raining and Flooding here plus I have big equipment upgrade at work so I really haven't had time to deal with this saw. Yes I've had multiple private offer to fix this saw. Fact there a guy's 40 miles from me offered, I even got prices from him and I know he can fix it! I keep thinking I'm going have more money in saw I shouldn't have too and no warranty. The more I think about it I really don't have a guarantee from Stihl this will be resolve, but I do know I need sent them the saw to give them the chance. If you read this post I've been really careful about doing the right thing, maybe I should have just sent the saw to JD right after I spoke to him. I did have a nice conversation with JD, fact a couple and I thought instead of just sending it off I really should try running it some more... I just haven't had time. Right now with what I got going on... its going to be awhile before I can. So I'm going to box this saw up and send it to JD this week. But...here an offer to the members here on this site, because I serious about this problem I have with this 362. If someone want to pick up my saw and run it give their evaluation back to this group I willing! Anyone, on web site can say anything... you don't know me from Adam, you all have tried to help. I sorry if I'm haven't just jump on all the advice as it was given. I'm just a home owner with a little bit of ground and I have lot other thing going on and I have tried to do the right thing. If someone want to run this saw and they can give reference from a couple people on here I would be more than happy to let them take this saw and run it. You all seem like nice helpful people and I do appreciate the advice. I'll provide the fuel, the original bar and chain plus another new chain. The question about compression or what it is really isn't the point the point... it how this saw runs, its not question about my skills or my word or anything in that line. Its how this saw preforms ...does this saw run right or does it really have a problem. If some wants to make arrangements before Friday then great, We'll let the group know what happening. Otherwise by Friday this saw getting dropped off at Cascade for shipment to JD. I did not mean to upset people on here, yes this has been going on along time but their are other reason why. I think my offer is fair to everyone who has tried to help, it only fair for those people get the answers they need! I honestly I think that is right thing to do at this point! If this group thinks they can find someone they trust that live near Lebanon, Oregon 97355, I'm in Corvallis Monday thru Friday or some where close that wants to run this saw...I think that is more than fair to this group.


Send it to Pioneer Guy he has decades of experience!


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 17, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Send it to Pioneer Guy he has decades of experience!



I think James has it right, at this point send it back to Stihl Corp, let them have a chance to fix it, if they don`t and they send the saw back still not working properly then one of us will gladly take it and fix it properly. There is just too many possibilities for faults or problems with this saw, seen this so many times over the years and its very difficult to pinpoint just what needs to be done til the saw is in ones hands, then a proper evaluation can be undertaken and fault or faults determined and repaired. If I was within driving distance of James residence I would have been there by now and we would not have 28 pages of guess work going on.


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## holeycow (Apr 17, 2019)

28 pages of guesswork. Woohoo!!


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## shadco (Apr 17, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> Well the test runs I did aren't null and both shops tests aren't null. This whole thing has just been eating at me a lot. When I talked to JD I thought well maybe Stihl is right I just need to run it more so I kept the saw. Its been raining like a mother here plus flooding and with all that going on with our parents I just haven't had time to run this saw! I see on here some one buys a new saw off the shelve and cuts like that with the same chain I have in hardwood...you know that kind of upsetting the more I think how these shops just pass this saw back. Knowing how my 362 cuts just makes me really upset! Then I found this nearly new MS361 the more I thought about it the more I decide that would be better. JD did tell me Stihl not going to give me a new saw and take this one back. I've been thinking about this a lot, I'd have put $400 plus to upgrade to MS462 which I don't need , the 1st shop showed me a 362 with the same compression. At this point I just need sent the saw to JD, maybe Stihl will put new cylinder on. After thinking about this I spent $500 now and I have something I can use. I keep thinking about how tough is it to cut a slabs off 15" log that canterlevered off the ground. Your kid could do that! I don't need a compression release to start this 362 , I can't even tell the difference with it on or off starting this saw. I just mad about this whole thing. I'm sending this saw to JD and I keep thinking about these shops...two different business. Both these shops aren't willing do anything. I was really proud of this MS362 when I bought it. Spent the time and money just to get it how I wanted it to be. Yes I was should have ran it within 7 days of purchase... lesson learned. I have no guarantee sending this saw to JD. My saw is all cleaned up and ready, I going send this bar and chain as requested plus a new Stihl chain. I hope to have it ready to ship by the Friday...Saturday at the latest. The more I thinking about this I do believe Austin at Cascade called JD. I'm going have Austin ship it back to Stihl and I'm going ask him if he did. Yes I did have the email ready to forward to the address forward by a member on this site. I type up the whole history with names, phone numbers and dates. JD did said sent him the saw so I didn't see the point sending the email to the other contact. I did sent a copy of the history to JD plus address to this post, because I thought he should know about how these shops are dealing with problem as a business concern. With JD not seen my saw I can't expect much from it but I did forward it to JD. I don't have a good way to do a video other than my phone. I have no way of hold my phone...I guess I could cut kerf in round and set my phone it that. Believe me... you all know a child can cut slabs off 15" log, It's a 60 cc saw! Who can't cut a 15" log off with 60 cc saw. The second shop should have sent this saw to JD from the start. Why didn't they...they saw the problem, they ran the compression tests...5 of them. They are Stihl dealer they should have the skills and the tools....yes it simple. The test cuts they ran prove my point. Why give me the run around...the advice and post on here just prove this saw has a problem. Yesterday I just got caught up in how a 362 should run, my wife mom going in care home, in out of the hospital these last few weeks and we have another parent going into Hospice! Its been raining and Flooding here plus I have big equipment upgrade at work so I really haven't had time to deal with this saw. Yes I've had multiple private offer to fix this saw. Fact there a guy's 40 miles from me offered, I even got prices from him and I know he can fix it! I keep thinking I'm going have more money in saw I shouldn't have too and no warranty. The more I think about it I really don't have a guarantee from Stihl this will be resolve, but I do know I need sent them the saw to give them the chance. If you read this post I've been really careful about doing the right thing, maybe I should have just sent the saw to JD right after I spoke to him. I did have a nice conversation with JD, fact a couple and I thought instead of just sending it off I really should try running it some more... I just haven't had time. Right now with what I got going on... its going to be awhile before I can. So I'm going to box this saw up and send it to JD this week. But...here an offer to the members here on this site, because I serious about this problem I have with this 362. If someone want to pick up my saw and run it give their evaluation back to this group I willing! Anyone, on web site can say anything... you don't know me from Adam, you all have tried to help. I sorry if I'm haven't just jump on all the advice as it was given. I'm just a home owner with a little bit of ground and I have lot other thing going on and I have tried to do the right thing. If someone want to run this saw and they can give reference from a couple people on here I would be more than happy to let them take this saw and run it. You all seem like nice helpful people and I do appreciate the advice. I'll provide the fuel, the original bar and chain plus another new chain. The question about compression or what it is really isn't the point the point... it how this saw runs, its not question about my skills or my word or anything in that line. Its how this saw preforms ...does this saw run right or does it really have a problem. If some wants to make arrangements before Friday then great, We'll let the group know what happening. Otherwise by Friday this saw getting dropped off at Cascade for shipment to JD. I did not mean to upset people on here, yes this has been going on along time but their are other reason why. I think my offer is fair to everyone who has tried to help, it only fair for those people get the answers they need! I honestly I think that is right thing to do at this point! If this group thinks they can find someone they trust that live near Lebanon, Oregon 97355, I'm in Corvallis Monday thru Friday or some where close that wants to run this saw...I think that is more than fair to this group.



Paragraphs are your friend.

.


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## NCPT (Apr 17, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Send it to Pioneer Guy he has decades of experience!


I say we all chip in and cover the shipping for the op and get it sent to someone who will fix it. Problem solved!


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## bigbadbob (Apr 17, 2019)

NCPT said:


> I say we all chip in and cover the shipping for the op and get it sent to someone who will fix it. Problem solved!


There are quite a few members near the O.P. Like Eugene and Springfield.


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## shadco (Apr 17, 2019)

bigbadbob said:


> There are quite a few members near the O.P. Like Eugene and Springfield.



@Chainsaw Jim would whip that thing into shape tout suite.

.


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## KarlD (Apr 17, 2019)

At this point definitely return to Stihl and good luck I hope you get a positive result.

One of my saws is a 04/2017 ms362c with a 20” bar and full chisel chain; it runs beautifully and you can bury the bar in softwood and it doesn’t bog unless you lean on it real heavy. It will cut hardwood (English oak) of 18” dia relatively easily also without bogging. I did a cold compression test yesterday, with an accurate and appropriate tester and it was just under 110 psi which surprised me....an old Jonny 630 Super 2 I have is at 150! Saying that the 362 runs great, and has done for nearly 2 years now, maybe 110 is about right?!

Anyway, chin up fella, it can only get better and if necessary it looks like there are some good lads on here that will sort it out for you if Stihl do not


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## Cope1024 (Apr 17, 2019)

James, you need to send the saw to Stihl. Any other course could void your warranty.


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## farmer steve (Apr 17, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Send it to Pioneer Guy he has decades of experience!


Yep. He's almost old as @stihl sawing.


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## lone wolf (Apr 17, 2019)

NCPT said:


> I say we all chip in and cover the shipping for the op and get it sent to someone who will fix it. Problem solved!


Im in for that! OP ?


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## gyp69 (Apr 17, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> Yep. He's almost old as @stihl sawing.


I thought I beat my addictions back in he 90’s but I cant stop peeking at this thread!


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## lone wolf (Apr 17, 2019)

gyp69 said:


> I thought I beat my addictions back in he 90’s but I cant stop peeking at this thread!


Well we can take bets for our amusement as to what is wrong or if we ever will know? Any predictions?


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## farmer steve (Apr 17, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Well we can take bets for our amusement as to what is wrong or if we ever will know? Any predictions?


I'm guessing the hoogamajiggy wasn't machined right for the Whatchamacallit attachment. We might know something by page 50.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 17, 2019)

shadco said:


> @Chainsaw Jim would whip that thing into shape tout suite.
> 
> .


he has more than offered his assistance... he who I'm thinkin of.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 17, 2019)

KarlD said:


> At this point definitely return to Stihl and good luck I hope you get a positive result.
> 
> One of my saws is a 04/2017 ms362c with a 20” bar and full chisel chain; it runs beautifully and you can bury the bar in softwood and it doesn’t bog unless you lean on it real heavy. It will cut hardwood (English oak) of 18” dia relatively easily also without bogging. I did a cold compression test yesterday, with an accurate and appropriate tester and it was just under 110 psi which surprised me....an old Jonny 630 Super 2 I have is at 150! Saying that the 362 runs great, and has done for nearly 2 years now, maybe 110 is about right?!
> 
> Anyway, chin up fella, it can only get better and if necessary it looks like there are some good lads on here that will sort it out for you if Stihl do not




That's interesting. My saw is from Germany 

MS362 Sn# 18519797962

Not sure what date is was MFG


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## stihl sawing (Apr 17, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> Yep. He's almost old as @stihl sawing.


Yer comin off the Christmas card list now.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 17, 2019)

The gals in shipping here at work are going box this up for me tomorrow, that if I can get off early enough to stop at Cascade and pick up a new Stihl chain. I'm going to sent my original 25" bar and chain...plus new one chain. I just don't want any other focus other than on this powerhead.


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## farmer steve (Apr 17, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> The gals in shipping here at work are going box this up for me tomorrow, that if I can get off early enough to stop at Cascade and pick up a new Stihl chain. I'm going to sent my original 25" bar and chain...plus new one chain. I just don't want any other focus other than on this powerhead.


I wouldn't send them a new chain. Let them figure it out . Just send what you have been running on it. If they think bar/chain problem let them put a new one on. Good luck James. FS.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 17, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> That's interesting. My saw is from Germany
> 
> MS362 Sn# 18519797962
> 
> Not sure what date is was MFG


The date of mfg is on the rear handle sticker. This saw is a 
Dec of 2008


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## grizz55chev (Apr 17, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Im in for that! OP ?


Or just ignore the drama for a few weeks.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 17, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> he has more than offered his assistance... he who I'm thinkin of.


Your Saw, your choice. I’d do some reading first, if it were mine.


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## KarlD (Apr 17, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> That's interesting. My saw is from Germany
> 
> MS362 Sn# 18519797962
> 
> Not sure what date is was MFG



All the ‘modern’ Stihl saws I have ever had have had the date of manufacture on the engine side of the chain brake handle?


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## Chainmale (Apr 18, 2019)

holeycow said:


> 28 pages of guesswork. Woohoo!!


Groundhog day


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## farmer steve (Apr 18, 2019)

Chainmale said:


> Groundhog day


i was thinking more like monty python.


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 18, 2019)

PAGE 30-- LETS GET THIS PUPPY BACK TO STIHL--- WE CAN DO IT !!!!!


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## dmb2613 (Apr 18, 2019)

Like I said about 20 something pages ago, this is a dead horse . Stihl would have replaced or fixed the saw by now. BUT IT is an awful thin pancake that has only one side. Take it for what its worth


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## James Sawyer (Apr 18, 2019)

We've been working 10-12 days on this upgrade, got off at 5 little early thought I could make it over to Cascade before they closed...they close at 5. I'll have drive over to Philomath at Lunch today, I'll be damned if I buy anything from Corvallis again! I want sent another chain with this saw. I when I got home started this saw then dump the fuel and oil. The saw was already cleaned and bar is off from when I took it to Corvallis so its already. Taking this saw to work having it boxed for shipping by our shipping department. With Cascade closing at 5 most likely I won't get off in time to drop it off until Saturday. I thought about CC the cylinder at TDC just so I know if they do change out the cylinder what the different was. I did order the proper 10mm adapter with the Schrader as suggested but it hasn't arrived. Anyway it will be ready for shipment today, guess we'll see what Stihl says!


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## lone wolf (Apr 18, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> We've been working 10-12 days on this upgrade, got off at 5 little early thought I could make it over to Cascade before they closed...they close at 5. I'll have drive over to Philomath at Lunch today, I'll be damned if I buy anything from Corvallis again! I want sent another chain with this saw. I when I got home started this saw then dump the fuel and oil. The saw was already cleaned and bar is off from when I took it to Corvallis so its already. Taking this saw to work having it boxed for shipping by our shipping department. With Cascade closing at 5 most likely I won't get off in time to drop it off until Saturday. I thought about CC the cylinder at TDC just so I know if they do change out the cylinder what the different was. I did order the proper 10mm adapter with the Schrader as suggested but it hasn't arrived. Anyway it will be ready for shipment today, guess we'll see what Stihl says!


Now we are moving along.


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## bigbadbob (Apr 18, 2019)

Couple more post and Im gonna get the rites fer a TV series here!!!


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## BangBang77 (Apr 18, 2019)

For the love of Baby Jesus.

Either send the saw back to Stihl as you have been advised repeatedly or get over it and fix it yourself.


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## Cope1024 (Apr 18, 2019)

Someone please post a link to the 10mm adapter with schraeder valve.


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## farmer steve (Apr 18, 2019)

Talked to my stihl guy today and ran this 362 saga by him. Lowell has forgotten more about saws than most of us know. He has not had any 362's come back with issues except for an over heating problem with the gas boiling. They figured out it was old,low octane gas in that one. He did think 110 was low on the compression till i told him about the new saw on the shelf that had the same. His opinion was that the saw needed more run time to break it in. He did think that 40 hours to break it in was a bit far fetched. Not related but i asked him about them not being allowed to give the box with a new saw. he never heard of such a thing. back to work men.


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## Cope1024 (Apr 18, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> Talked to my stihl guy today and ran this 362 saga by him. Lowell has forgotten more about saws than most of us know. He has not had any 362's come back with issues except for an over heating problem with the gas boiling. They figured out it was old,low octane gas in that one. He did think 110 was low on the compression till i told him about the new saw on the shelf that had the same. His opinion was that the saw needed more run time to break it in. He did think that 40 hours to break it in was a bit far fetched. Not related but i asked him about them not being allowed to give the box with a new saw. he never heard of such a thing. back to work men.



There are as many answers as there are people to ask. And this is not a jab at Lowell.


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## lone wolf (Apr 18, 2019)

BangBang77 said:


> For the love of Baby Jesus.
> 
> Either send the saw back to Stihl as you have been advised repeatedly or get over it and fix it yourself.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 18, 2019)

My saw getting boxed for shipping, Letter to JD, New FC chain, the original bar & Chain, plus the power head.


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## holeycow (Apr 18, 2019)

I wouldn’t doubt that Stihl steals your tach idea at some point.


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## PGK1 (Apr 18, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> My saw getting boxed for shipping, Letter to JD, New FC chain, the original bar & Chain, plus the power head.



Good Luck James! I'm sure they will get you taken care of. 
Pete


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 18, 2019)

Cope1024 said:


> Someone please post a link to the 10mm adapter with schraeder valve.


 Its the same link as the one I put up for the compression tester, same page n everything, just scroll doen the page after it opens, DTT-2312

https://www.tinytach.com/chainsaw-tools


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 18, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> My saw getting boxed for shipping, Letter to JD, New FC chain, the original bar & Chain, plus the power head.



Very good, give them a chance to rectify this problem. Best of luck James.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 18, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Its the same link as the one I put up for the compression tester, same page n everything, just scroll doen the page after it opens, DTT-2312
> 
> https://www.tinytach.com/chainsaw-tools



Tell Connie Hi for me...


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## mudfly (Apr 18, 2019)

holeycow said:


> I wouldn’t doubt that Stihl steals your tach idea at some point.



They already essentially have a tach. The Mtronic adjusts to get the maximum rpm, so it knows how fast the engine is turning. They just don’t have a display for the user.


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## grizz55chev (Apr 18, 2019)

mudfly said:


> They already essentially have a tach. The Mtronic adjusts to get the maximum rpm, so it knows how fast the engine is turning. They just don’t have a display for the user.


The display really is not needed for an experienced hand with a chainsaw. If it’s cutting like a scalded dog all of a sudden, shut it down immediately, it’s about to scorch itself into oblivion! If what you see coming off the chain looks more like dust than chips and you really have to press hard to get it to cut, shut it down immediately, again, you’re about to destroy your beloved saw. Your ears and eyes along with a little experience will save you a lot of money and down time when applied properly. The tac idea is a tool used for initial setup and tune, in my opinion, ymmv.


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 18, 2019)

Can we all vote in a new rule for this sight. If you get a new saw do not check the compression to get a base line reading for your info.. Just cut some wood............. Problems --- Take it to a dealer-Page 30 and Cyberspace is almost full


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## Deleted member 149229 (Apr 18, 2019)

I originally quit on page 15, couldn’t help myself and checked tonight.


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## holeycow (Apr 18, 2019)

The tach is totally unnecessary. But cool anyway. Some people (many people I think) would like that gizmo on their saw. I could care less. I have owned one loaded pickup. Never again. Too many useless “features” for me.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 19, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> The display really is not needed for an experienced hand with a chainsaw. If it’s cutting like a scalded dog all of a sudden, shut it down immediately, it’s about to scorch itself into oblivion! If what you see coming off the chain looks more like dust than chips and you really have to press hard to get it to cut, shut it down immediately, again, you’re about to destroy your beloved saw. Your ears and eyes along with a little experience will save you a lot of money and down time when applied properly. The tac idea is a tool used for initial setup and tune, in my opinion, ymmv.



The Trail Tech Tachometer/hour meter won't work on a M-tronic is my understanding. The M-tronic's ignition gives inconsistent reading from what I've read. I've never tested it on M-Tronic's so I don't know for sure... this wasn't my idea I copied it from others. I put the trail tach on my saw because my dad cut firewood at different elevation and not all Ethanol free fuel is the same, plus its nice to know how many hours are on the saw. It's also nice to check the tune on your saw once in awhile and you know how the saw is running in the cut without a doubt. But in my case I didn't need a tach to tell me my saw has problems but I'm glad I have the hour meter on it now. My dad was a logger and I've been around a lot of fallers ...most never tune their saw themselves, they drop them off at the shops when they notice problems as grizz55chew stated. My Dad is all about chain speed and I haven't got chance to cut with him for awhile and I was hoping to learn something from him the next time. I don't cut all the time only a few time a year with him. That's the main reason I installed the tach was as a learning tool to learn from guys like my dad and Grizz55chew. It just made sense for guys like me to learn consistently what chains work better, know for sure how the saw runs. My dad cut with mainly 63 gauge semi or full skip, to be honest most of time I ran his saws never really have much experience with chain selection. It was never one of those things we talked about until now. I saw this tach idea on someone else saw and I thought it was good idea because of the statement above.


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## KarlD (Apr 19, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> The Trail Tech Tachometer/hour meter won't work on a M-tronic is my understanding. The M-tronic's ignition gives inconsistent reading from what I've read. I've never tested it on M-Tronic's so I don't know for sure... this wasn't my idea I copied it from others. I put the trail tach on my saw because my dad cut firewood at different elevation and not all Ethanol free fuel is the same, plus its nice to know how many hours are on the saw. It's also nice to check the tune on your saw once in awhile and you know how the saw is running in the cut without a doubt. But in my case I didn't need a tach to tell me my saw has problems but I'm glad I have the hour meter on it now. My dad was a logger and I've been around a lot of fallers ...most never tune their saw themselves, they drop them off at the shops when they notice problems as grizz55chew stated. My Dad is all about chain speed and I haven't got chance to cut with him for awhile and I was hoping to learn something from him the next time. I don't cut all the time only a few time a year with him. That's the main reason I installed the tach was as a learning tool to learn from guys like my dad and Grizz55chew. It just made sense for guys like me to learn consistently what chains work better, know for sure how the saw runs. My dad cut with mainly 63 gauge semi or full skip, to be honest most of time I ran his saws never really have much experience with chain selection. It was never one of those things we talked about until now. I saw this tach idea on someone else saw and I thought it was good idea because of the statement above.



You have no need to justify your choice of using a tach or not...you’ll always get a load of “...I’m more experienced than you and I can tell by how my saw smells and you’re a newb etc etc” comments when u ask for help. I was once told by an old boy that I wasn’t the man he was because I used a saw with a chain brake...apparently real men don’t need or use such saws

I think you have coped very well with the frustrated doubters in this thread.

I would also never fit a tach on a saw..but only because I’m lazy


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## lone wolf (Apr 19, 2019)

farmer steve said:


> Talked to my stihl guy today and ran this 362 saga by him. Lowell has forgotten more about saws than most of us know. He has not had any 362's come back with issues except for an over heating problem with the gas boiling. They figured out it was old,low octane gas in that one. He did think 110 was low on the compression till i told him about the new saw on the shelf that had the same. His opinion was that the saw needed more run time to break it in. He did think that 40 hours to break it in was a bit far fetched. Not related but i asked him about them not being allowed to give the box with a new saw. he never heard of such a thing. back to work men.


Still say the compression is wrong.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Apr 19, 2019)

I see a lot of millennial loggers run to the dealer to get their chain sharpened. You could tell them the chain’s shot and they wouldn’t know the difference.


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## CR888 (Apr 19, 2019)

This is a special thread.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 19, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> Still say the compression is wrong.


 It would be a higher reading with a proper fitting for the 10 mm cylinder thread. When playing with squish measurements a few mm makes a big difference in compression readings which directly transfers to volume, add volume and compression readings drop, decrease and rises. Just deleting the base gasket raises the compression 10 lbs so just imagine what a hollow cylinder attached to the cylinder head would cause the comp to drop. From what I have seen on this thread alone it would seem about 40 lbs comp drop.


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## CatMan Fetters (Apr 19, 2019)

bigbadbob said:


> Couple more post and Im gonna get the rites fer a TV series here!!!


It’s a soap opera now!


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## wgtownsend (Apr 19, 2019)

I started reading/lurking on this thread from its beginning. Now I can't get away from it. I feel like a pervert. I'm so ashamed. [emoji20]

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk


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## grizz55chev (Apr 19, 2019)

Without going back through all the pages, I can’t remember 1 single picture of the infamous saw in question?


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## boltonranger (Apr 19, 2019)

While JD/Stihl may not replace the unit... they can return it to you cutting properly and that’s ultimately what you wanted when you put your money on the counter. 

It’s hard, when emotions are in play..
You do a lot of wishing for resolutions to go a certain way, what could I have done different, what should the Dealer do for me etc...

My hope for you is for Stihl to be Stihl. 
For your trust not to be misplaced; for you to have a saw that’s well... a saw. 

I haven’t needed to buy a saw in a while. It’s because there’s one in the garage that starts and runs when I need it to. It cuts right, it feels right. 

I’d like for your 362 to be that way for you. ... Here’s hopin’


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## gyp69 (Apr 19, 2019)

wgtownsend said:


> I started reading/lurking on this thread from its beginning. Now I can't get away from it. I feel like a pervert. I'm so ashamed. [emoji20]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk





boltonranger said:


> While JD/Stihl may not replace the unit... they can return it to you cutting properly and that’s ultimately what you wanted when you put your money on the counter.
> 
> It’s hard, when emotions are in play..
> You do a lot of wishing for resolutions to go a certain way, what could I have done different, what should the Dealer do for me etc...
> ...


To Wgtownsend.dont be ashamed lots of saw perverts on here,I myself have an orange & white german fetish, some have an orange Swede, heck I have even seen a few with an orange Japanese e-ho fetish


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## grizz55chev (Apr 19, 2019)

gyp69 said:


> To Wgtownsend.dont be ashamed lots of saw perverts on here,I myself have an orange & white german fetish, some have an orange Swede, heck I have even seen a few with an orange Japanese e-ho fetish


All saws matter!


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## gyp69 (Apr 19, 2019)

Haha good one!


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## Deleted member 149229 (Apr 19, 2019)

gyp69 said:


> To Wgtownsend.dont be ashamed lots of saw perverts on here,I myself have an orange & white german fetish, some have an orange Swede, heck I have even seen a few with an orange Japanese e-ho fetish


You forgot one.


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## huskihl (Apr 19, 2019)

Dahmer said:


> You forgot one.


I think he had you covered under "white" and "german".


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## huskihl (Apr 19, 2019)

Is this thing ported yet?


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## grizz55chev (Apr 19, 2019)

huskihl said:


> I think he had you covered under "white" and "german".


Keep that over in the P + R thread.


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## huskihl (Apr 19, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Keep that over in the P + R thread.


Lol never thought about it like that. I was just looking at his makita with the white covers


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## shadco (Apr 19, 2019)

huskihl said:


> Is this thing ported yet?



Don’t , wouldn’t be nice, that thing is beastly.

But it would liven up the thread a little. 

.


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## Bwildered (Apr 19, 2019)

grizz55chev said:


> Without going back through all the pages, I can’t remember 1 single picture of the infamous saw in question?


Yes there's pictures of it, remember the tachometer housed on or in the top cover?
BTW I'd be suprised if there is anything wrong with the saw.


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## James Sawyer (Apr 19, 2019)

Dropped off at Cascade for shipment at noon today.


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## lone wolf (Apr 21, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> It would be a higher reading with a proper fitting for the 10 mm cylinder thread. When playing with squish measurements a few mm makes a big difference in compression readings which directly transfers to volume, add volume and compression readings drop, decrease and rises. Just deleting the base gasket raises the compression 10 lbs so just imagine what a hollow cylinder attached to the cylinder head would cause the comp to drop. From what I have seen on this thread alone it would seem about 40 lbs comp drop.


It drives people that dont know this nuts!


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## boltonranger (Apr 21, 2019)

pioneerguy600 said:


> Very good, give them a chance to rectify this problem. Best of luck James.



+1


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 22, 2019)

Mean while back at the Ranch. David works on his new found Stihl 08 S $12 scrap yard special with great piston-cylinder and pulls good compression. I better not check the compression because that might lead to ...................................................Well you know!!!!!!!  I really hope Stihl makes it right!!


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## Colt Marlington (Apr 22, 2019)

If I die before this gets sorted out I'm gonna be pissed...


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## Tin-knocker (Apr 22, 2019)

Did we ever get a picture of the piston in this thing?


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## 46 Poulan (Apr 23, 2019)

Neither rain,nor sleet,nor dark of night-- Lets hope postal system will not lose it in shipping... or this great mystery will never get solved--I just called Columbo--Charlie Chan and Mc Cloud---those guys can solve this thing No Doubt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!----David


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## motolife313 (Apr 23, 2019)

Has there been a down leak down on the engine to check for leaks.


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## waross (Apr 23, 2019)

James Sawyer said:


> The fuel in the saw was what the shop put in, they filled both the oil and the fuel tanks, then tuned my saw. I installed an MS462R oiler, changed the dwg and installed the tach. I started the saw ran it just enough to check the tach. Yesterday I fell two trees both leaners , one I had to pull a bit. I was having trouble with the face even, I just could load the saw or the chain would stop. I'm doing the back cut on 1st tree and it started to go and huge hinge couldn't keep the saw cutting. I thought well its not broke in. I squared the butt on that tree, then went to fall the next one. This tree I had to pull a bit to get it in the lay. Same problem... this tree had a bigger hinge when it went just couldn't keep the saw cutting... neither tree needed a wedge, so the bar wasn't pinched. I let the saw idle a bit to cool then shut it off, when down to the house and check the compression. Majorly bummed... I have a small 5mm camera with a light build in that connects to my phone. I think I'll slide it in thru the plug opening and see what the cylinder looks like. Unless the compression release is faulty and yes I pulled the release back out when I pulled the cover. The saw does flood pretty easy...funny I was just in the shop yesterday picking up a couple plugs and had their tech check it because I just thought that not right to have to hold the throttle wide open to get it to start.


You said the shop "tuned" it and you added other parts? If it was modified out of specs in the beginning then you voided any warranty. Wow. I read all the time how guys want to modify their new saws and then when it fails blame the manufacturer. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Chiknhawk (Apr 23, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> It drives people that dont know this nuts!


Right on it will and does 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## Chiknhawk (Apr 23, 2019)

lone wolf said:


> It drives people that dont know this nuts!


I really dont want to read this whole post it seems u have been there since ground zero lone wolf what is the outcome I used to be a stihl dealer for many years now a husqvarna/jonsered.redmax and echo/shindiawa I do have a great relationship with my old stihl sales rep from factory hell I bet I can if I was a dealer stil I would just satisfy the customer hand him what he wants earn his buisness and get in stihl's ass as I used to and they always made it right but I'm curious what's the outcome does he still have the saw or what

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## boltonranger (Apr 23, 2019)

waross said:


> You said the shop "tuned" it and you added other parts? If it was modified out of specs in the beginning then you voided any warranty. Wow. I read all the time how guys want to modify their new saws and then when it fails blame the manufacturer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk



Stihl is aware of the mods and seemingly unconcerned about them.

In any case the mods don’t affect the issue the OP is experiencing. 

Skipping all the posts and asking a member to fill you in because you don’t want to read them is not unlike modding a saw and expecting a warranty to be honored. 

Unless of course Lone wolf is a personal friend or family. I mean no disrespect if this is the case.


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## motolife313 (Apr 23, 2019)

Saw should have been diagnosed it’s problem right away, 32 pages is nuts lol


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