# Sharp Maul vs Dull Maul?



## ReggieT (Nov 25, 2012)

I've heard tons of arguments on both sides. There's an old coffers here that swears he can and has split Black Locoust, Elm, Iron wood...one handed, after killing a pint of Wild Turkey with a razor Sharp 12 lb mayor! What's has been you guys experience? Thanks


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## Mac88 (Nov 25, 2012)

Maul? Isn't that something you beat yourself up with when you're not getting enough abuse from your spouse? ;o)


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## memory (Nov 25, 2012)

I would tend to think the sharper the better. But then again, I don't split much with a maul anymore and never did that much to begin with.


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## Shmudda (Nov 25, 2012)

*Sharp Maul*

I keep my maul as sharp as I can. After each use I take a file to it just to touch up the edge. I have found the sharper the better as the head will bury itself into the round rather than bouncing off. The biggest thing you really need to keep an eye on is the taper of the cutting face. You want a good lead in and not something very blunt just past the sharpened edge. 

Works for me!

Craig


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## chucker (Nov 25, 2012)

if im splitting straight grained wood i dont mind a dull maul. now on the other hand or end of the maul when splitting stringy wood like elm i would want a sharp maul to help cut the strings!!also if theres more than a pickup load to do, neither dull or sharp is going to do it !! thats what we have hyd. splitters for hey?lol:msp_confused:


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## hardpan (Nov 25, 2012)

Shmudda said:


> I keep my maul as sharp as I can. After each use I take a file to it just to touch up the edge. I have found the sharper the better as the head will bury itself into the round rather than bouncing off. The biggest thing you really need to keep an eye on is the taper of the cutting face. You want a good lead in and not something very blunt just past the sharpened edge.
> 
> Works for me!
> 
> Craig




I agree, the sharper the better. On a new one, the cheap ones I buy, I figure 2-3 hours of grinding and filing to get the taper down to something I can use. Maybe someday I'll spend the money and buy a good one but holy cow $150 for a maul, Mueller etc.


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## PEKS (Nov 25, 2012)

Sharp, all day long..


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## Philbo (Nov 25, 2012)

hardpan said:


> I agree, the sharper the better. On a new one, the cheap ones I buy, I figure 2-3 hours of grinding and filing to get the taper down to something I can use. Maybe someday I'll spend the money and buy a good one but holy cow $150 for a maul, Mueller etc.



Husqvarna sells a 6.5 lb sharp edge maul with a hand-forged head made by Wetterlings for about $80+tax. Just FYI...seems not very many people here are familiar with the handmade Husky branded axes and mauls...it's all Fiskars all the time...

The Fiskars is great most of the time, but occasionally you run into some stuff that laughs at it and you need some more heft.


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## zogger (Nov 25, 2012)

Philbo said:


> Husqvarna sells a 6.5 lb sharp edge maul with a hand-forged head made by Wetterlings for about $80+tax. Just FYI...seems not very many people here are familiar with the handmade Husky branded axes and mauls...it's all Fiskars all the time...
> 
> The Fiskars is great most of the time, but occasionally you run into some stuff that laughs at it and you need some more heft.



I didn't know they made one, cool!

Bailey's - Husqvarna 6-1/2 lbs. Splitting Maul


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## turnkey4099 (Nov 26, 2012)

Philbo said:


> Husqvarna sells a 6.5 lb sharp edge maul with a hand-forged head made by Wetterlings for about $80+tax. Just FYI...seems not very many people here are familiar with the handmade Husky branded axes and mauls...it's all Fiskars all the time...
> 
> The Fiskars is great most of the time, but occasionally you run into some stuff that laughs at it and you need some more heft.



Yep. There is no tool anywhere that does everything.

Harry K


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## Jules083 (Nov 26, 2012)

Sharp. I bought a new maul about 3 or 4 years ago to replace the double bit ax, thought I made a mistake until I worked it over with a grinder and file. Learned also that 'wood splitting wedges' from tractor supply don't split wood very well. Got some wedges that are way longer with much less of a taper and never looked back. The ones I use are about 12" long and about 3" thick at the back. By the time it's buried then grab the other one that starts out at 2" and widens to about 5". If I still need more it goes in the bonfire pile.

Now I have a splitter, the maul leans against the wall forgotten, cold, and un-loved.


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## El Quachito (Nov 26, 2012)

I like a sharp edge. Nothing blunt or badly shaped. I like a thin edge that is sort of self-sharpening. Since it is a splitting maul, I also choose not to sharpen it or keep it razor sharp. My 2 cents.


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## zogger (Nov 26, 2012)

Jules083 said:


> Sharp. I bought a new maul about 3 or 4 years ago to replace the double bit ax, thought I made a mistake until I worked it over with a grinder and file. Learned also that 'wood splitting wedges' from tractor supply don't split wood very well. Got some wedges that are way longer with much less of a taper and never looked back. The ones I use are about 12" long and about 3" thick at the back. By the time it's buried then grab the other one that starts out at 2" and widens to about 5". If I still need more it goes in the bonfire pile.
> 
> Now I have a splitter, the maul leans against the wall forgotten, cold, and un-loved.



Brand/source of larger wedges?


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## Fred Wright (Nov 26, 2012)

Overall it's better to sharpen them. A maul doesn't have to be sharp enough to shave with since the edge is needed only on the first swing. After that, the wedge shape of the head parts the round.

A blunt maul will split red oak and other species where you have a crack or check at the ends of your blocks. Split along the cracks.


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## gregfox (Nov 26, 2012)

The sharper the better. A dull maul is like splitting with a sledge hammer.


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## Ash_403 (Nov 26, 2012)

I never sharpened my maul (8 lb) until I processed over a cord of Siberian Elm early this year. It made it noticably easier to split, but still beat my brains out. :bang:


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## ReggieT (Nov 27, 2012)

*Finally Sharpened Mine Today!*



Ash_403 said:


> I never sharpened my maul (8 lb) until I processed over a cord of Siberian Elm early this year. It made it noticably easier to split, but still beat my brains out. :bang:



I would say it made the busting about 30-35% easier...maybe!
Thinking about buying that "Friskars Beast" this week though...a friend of mine chops wood "overhead" with it! I think he's on some type of hard narcotic!:msp_razz:


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## WidowMaker (Nov 27, 2012)

ReggieT said:


> I would say it made the busting about 30-35% easier...maybe!
> Thinking about buying that "Friskars Beast" this week though...a friend of mine chops wood "overhead" with it! I think he's on some type of hard narcotic!:msp_razz:



====

What exactley does this mean????


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## ReggieT (Nov 27, 2012)

WidowMaker said:


> ====
> 
> What exactley does this mean????


WidowMaker,

He jumps from the back of his P/U truck and cuts with that Friskars Axe overhead branchs & also use's a Husky 28 bar in like manner...he's barely missed falling debri & branch's'...but he very athletic and dam lucky...and STUPID!:hmm3grin2orange:

He's the same guy who deliberately oversleeps every morning then drives his Mustang 100 mph to work...just for the thrill and adrenaline rush!opcorn: 

I told his wife...I hope you have @ least 3 insurance policies on him...cause the Law of Averages...will kick in ONE DAY!


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## CTYank (Nov 27, 2012)

When I got a Mueller last year, it gave me a demo as to what a proper maul edge was, besides an efficient head shape. Not to mention metallurgy.

Edge: sharp. Head slightly convex to about 3/8" behind edge. Head faces essentially flat from there to about the midpoint of the eye. Some might call this stuff subtle, but it sure works.

Took a disc grinder to some old 5 lb and 8 lb mauls to try to mimic the head shape of the Mueller. The difference in performance was startling. Now the Mueller is reserved as heavy artillery for the big, nasty stuff.

Now, if I could only find my steel wedges ...


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## Whitespider (Nov 27, 2012)

Sharp, real sharp…

People don’t really see a splitting maul as a “cutting” tool, but it is. When the edge first strikes the wood it does “cut” through and between fibers for a short distance until it enters deep enough to “force” the wood apart something like a wedge. The maul, or axe, relies on momentum to keep it moving, and kinetic energy to force the wood apart… but that kinetic energy can only be used to split the wood _after_ the maul head enters deep enough to use its “wedge” effect. Anything that reduces velocity before that point will reduce both momentum and useful kinetic energy (splitting force).

A dull edge will compress and compact the wood fibers, rather than “cutting” through them… causing the tool to use more of its energy to rip and tear them apart. Velocity and momentum are reduced sooner during the splitting action… which reduces the kinetic energy available when it is needed most.


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## zogger (Nov 27, 2012)

CTYank said:


> When I got a Mueller last year, it gave me a demo as to what a proper maul edge was, besides an efficient head shape. Not to mention metallurgy.
> 
> Edge: sharp. Head slightly convex to about 3/8" behind edge. Head faces essentially flat from there to about the midpoint of the eye. Some might call this stuff subtle, but it sure works.
> 
> ...



Yep, sharp. I think the sharpness, shape and original teflon coating is what impressed me with the fiskars when I first started swinging one. And of course the light weight.

With that said, I've been a lazy boy, time to put a decent edge on the old anvil on a stick and my wedges.


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## Jules083 (Nov 27, 2012)

zogger said:


> Brand/source of larger wedges?



That's a good question. I bought mine at a flea market.

Google search 'set up wedge' and you'll get an idea. The ones I use are longer, but these should work good for starting a split. I use similar stuff at work a lot to 'tweak' stuff that doesn't fit, it's unreal how much pressure you can put on metal with one. I once picked up a corner of a 60,000 pound section of ductwork 3/4" with one wedge and an 8 lb sledge to line it up.

Item No: SUW-952 [Drop Forged Steel Set-Up Wedge]


8" Steel Set-Up Wedge | Real Cheap Tools


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## zogger (Nov 27, 2012)

Jules083 said:


> That's a good question. I bought mine at a flea market.
> 
> Google search 'set up wedge' and you'll get an idea. The ones I use are longer, but these should work good for starting a split. I use similar stuff at work a lot to 'tweak' stuff that doesn't fit, it's unreal how much pressure you can put on metal with one. I once picked up a corner of a 60,000 pound section of ductwork 3/4" with one wedge and an 8 lb sledge to line it up.
> 
> ...




Thank you very much! Kinda sorta just what I was thinking about with my giant wedge idea. had no idea real large wedges, for any purpose, even existed on the market.

I screwed up two summers ago. Boss scrapped about a trainload (not joking, trainload) of old orklift junk at his closing down shop, shoulda grabbed some old busted/bent forks at scrap steel prices. Cut a long end off clean, sharpen it. Of course, I don't know if that is the right steel or not either, I imagine probably not, too hard maybe.


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## aarolar (Nov 27, 2012)

All this talk is great but pictures are worth 1000 words. Lets see some pictures of a properly sharpened and shaped maul.


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## homemade (Nov 27, 2012)

Always sharp. I've also heard the argument that if you have a dull edge that it will follow the natural path of the wood fibers where a sharp edge will require more enegry to cut through. But I don't want be swinging full force when the natural path of the wood fibers are leading to the outer edge of the round and then the maul slips out and into my leg. Just not a good day. I'll try and get some pics of my splitter.


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## Eric Modell (Nov 27, 2012)

There is block splinting and ground spliting. Forty years ago I split with an axe on a block and did not evan know what a maul was. When I cut wood for a living the rounds were turnened on end with out moving, split with a dull maul and loaded on the truck for sale, it depends on what you are doing. To make money I did not whant to handle the wood twice, and in the ozarks you can not keep a maul sharp splinting in the rocks and dirt.


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## CTYank (Nov 28, 2012)

aarolar said:


> All this talk is great but pictures are worth 1000 words. Lets see some pictures of a properly sharpened and shaped maul.



Seems "sharp" is pretty simple. As is "flat." Sometimes a couple words suffices. :msp_razz:

Check the 3 kg maul here: Splitting Axes and Splitting Mauls I've got one- it's a real beauty, and served as a template for modifying some Bradlees' specials into serious tools.

You could order one for a model. Or a Gransfors.


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## ReggieT (Nov 28, 2012)

CTYank said:


> Seems "sharp" is pretty simple. As is "flat." Sometimes a couple words suffices. :msp_razz:
> 
> Check the 3 kg maul here: Splitting Axes and Splitting Mauls I've got one- it's a real beauty, and served as a template for modifying some Bradlees' specials into serious tools.
> 
> You could order one for a model. Or a Gransfors.


WOW! Serious business here for sure...DAM IT MAN!!!


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## Jules083 (Nov 28, 2012)

You guys motivated me to bring out the maul today. First swing, broken handle. Second swing a few hours later, head flew off the new handle. The wooden wedge the handle came with bottomed out too early and didn't get it tight enough it seems. Have some small metal wedges for this somewhere, gotta tear the garage up tomorrow and try to find them.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2


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