# Axe/Saw/Maul Advice



## mopar969 (Apr 9, 2013)

Okay so I know alot of people use chainsaws on this site. However, I would like to stay away from chainsaws because I have seen many people, even the experienced get injured from them. I have heard stories of the chain flying off and wrapping around people and other mishaps. I am new to using a chain saw and was going to order chaps and other safety equipment. However, I am planning on installing a coal/wood furnace and I was going to use the wood from my 7 acres as supplemental heat to the coal. 

Anyhow my main point of posting to to see what people use besides a chainsaw to fell, buck, a tree. I have heard of saws, axes, and mauls. My goal is to only cut the dead and standing dead on my property. What out there is the best and how much longer to use them instead of a chainsaw. A

Again any advice for what I can manually use to fell and buck a tree. Also, I will be by myself so I can not use a two man saw.


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## woodchuck357 (Apr 9, 2013)

What size trees?

If the same number of trees were cut with axes as chain saws, the number of injuries would likely be higher with axes.

Most chainsaw injuries are the result of improper use.


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## mad murdock (Apr 9, 2013)

You can process firewood the "unplugged" way. My first question to you would be, have you ever used a buck saw or 1 or 2 man crosscut? How skilled with an axe are you? You can cause as much or more injury to yourself and or other bystanders using hand tools improperly as well as a chainsaw. Unless you are in good shape, or planning on being in good shape, putting up enough firewood to heat a place for a season in your neck of the woods will be a BIG time consumer! I was raised in the northern Great Lakes region, and my father started us on axes, buck saws crosscut saws and the like, when we were too young to operate a power saw, but by the time I was 12 I was bucking firewood with a chainsaw. If you have sharp and maintained hand tools you can get the job done well that way, a lot depends on the kind/size of wood, and such. The biggest part of the equation is the individual skill level of the person doing the job.


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## computeruser (Apr 10, 2013)

Gotta say, you're setting yourself up for some serious work to process trees by hand. I've done it before, as much for kicks as for anything else, and it kicked my #### each time I did it. And that was on standing, live green wood; dead wood would be much, much worse. The thing is that most axes are designed to cut green wood, which is softer and tends to come out in flakes. Dead wood + ax equals poor cutting performance and lots of annoyance, in my experience. 

There are some good resources online for cutting, bucking, limbing with hand tools. USFS has some videos, as I recall. Read and watch the videos on ax use, maintenance, and hanging, there are some really good ones on youtube. Buy good equipment, not hardware store axes. Gransfors, Iltis, Wetterlings, are good, and I hear that the current Velvicut line from Council Tool (USA-Made!!) are excellent. Vintage ax heads are also good if re-hung on quality modern handles

If your only concern here is safety, I think your approach is misguided. If you're just looking to be different, or ecologically sensitive, or quiet, or whatever, that's cool. But truth be told I've hurt myself way more with axes, hand saws, etc., than I have (knock on wood!) with my chainsaws.


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## Matt59 (Apr 10, 2013)

computeruser said:


> There are some good resources online for cutting, bucking, limbing with hand tools. USFS has some videos, as I recall. Read and watch the videos on ax use, maintenance, and hanging, there are some really good ones on youtube



Here's the USFS video "An Axe to Grind." US Forest Service, An Axe to Grind - Complete Documentary - YouTube This video is the best I have seen and has a ton of info about axes, sharpening, use, and handles. 

Here's some more: An Ax to Grind - Part 1 - YouTube and part II: An Ax to Grind - Part 2 - YouTube


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## mopar969 (Apr 10, 2013)

After much consideration I think that I am being over worried with the chain saw. I am going to use a chainsaw and I am buying the Husqvarna 531307180 Chain Saw Protective Apparel Powerkit, Professional for 150 on amazon. 

I am also going to use steel toe bots that I have. I was wondering, is there a difference between steel toe and chain saw boots that I should have a good reason to invest in them? Or am I being too worried about that too.


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## Matt59 (Apr 15, 2013)

templar said:


> Those vids are good but do remember that the guy in an Axto grind is a pro and most of the Axes are old ones (very good ones) and the patterns I don't think are made new anymore (I may be wrong) unless buy some eh well ....makers no one heard off lol and probably outta recucled tea spoons lol.
> 
> 
> Good crosscuts and buck saws aren't that easy to come by and sharpening them properly is an art. That coupled with you may if you can find one, have to compete with a collector and eh they may pay alot more than one would for a tool that is going to work



Council Tool in North Carolina makes Dayton, double bit, Jersey, and Hudson Bay patterns. For affordable prices, too. Of course, any big box store will sell whatever the homeowner will buy. Those axes work, though...a few years ago my brother and I set out to cut a big cherry next to our cabin. We tried to fire up the chainsaw (not mine) and found out the spark plug wire had broken off. We pulled a cheap, made in India axe out and felled that cherry nicely for beginners...

A few months ago I set back out to buck and limb that cherry. I was torn between getting a crosscut saw and a chainsaw. To make a long story short, I went with the modest Husky 455 and chaps (I had the rest of the PPE). Best decision I made lately! I'd probably still be up there cutting if I bought the 1 man crosscut...


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## Matt59 (Apr 16, 2013)

templar said:


> I know council still makes certain patterns .......I was referring to the axes that the presenter was using. The Kelly pattern axe he used (think it was a jersey the double he re-hung looked like a michigan or maybe a western it been a while since i saw that vid) isn't made now or at least not that Kelly lol I think the name still exists but it ain't Kelly lol (yep that name has gone thru many hands)
> 
> 
> I although am at the moment in the UK ....we have a place in ......NC so know council pretty well ....(I even have a North Carolina pattern made by Kelly lol )
> ...



Hey it's all good, no rudeness taken! I'm no logger, but I feel that the only way to get good and proficient with tools, be it a pocketknife or an axe or a chainsaw, is to learn how to use the tool from a pro, and if there is no pro to teach you than you better do all the reading and watching you can to learn safety and use and maintenance. And, when you're off on your own using those tools, you better use them safely and be humble with your skills. The original poster seems like he will be fine with whatever tool he chooses.

Didn't mean to assume that you didn't know council tools. Hey...you have a place in NC but you're in the Highlands across the pond right now. You familiar with Highland brewing in Asheville? They make a darn good oatmeal porter.


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## AT sawyer (Apr 16, 2013)

mopar969 said:


> I will be by myself so I can not use a two man saw.



Misunderstanding here. Two man saws were often used singly for bucking big timber. If by yourself, it's helpful to have a short crosscut for making your felling notch and back cut, as there is less fishtailing, but a big saw is easily workable in felled trees. Five feet is a good size. Lots of decent saws on Ebay, but you'll have to find someone who really knows how to file it.

View attachment 290723


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## Guido Salvage (Apr 20, 2013)

mopar969 said:


> Anyhow my main point of posting to to see what people use besides a chainsaw to fell, buck, a tree. I have heard of saws, axes, and mauls.



Still waiting for someone to discuss felling or bucking with a maul...


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## Hinerman (Apr 22, 2013)

Guido Salvage said:


> Still waiting for someone to discuss felling or bucking with a maul...



 Anybody looking for a good sig quote, right here it is. Thanks for the laugh.


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## AT sawyer (Apr 22, 2013)

Guido Salvage said:


> Still waiting for someone to discuss felling or bucking with a maul...



I went to the Mall and spent too many bucks.


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## mainewoods (Apr 22, 2013)

Arm yourself with knowledge -take a chainsaw safety coarse. You have the greatest teaching tool in the world available at your finger tips- the internet and AS. But the best way to learn is to see it happen, just like you show your students. They are probably afraid of math, you teach them how not to be. Any one can learn common sense , applying it is when you have really learned.


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## Trx250r180 (Apr 22, 2013)

these work pretty good


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## deepsouth (Apr 25, 2013)

trx250r180 said:


> these work pretty good



Show me a picture of you holding it in your hand opcorn: wrong forum for that piece of gear


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## AuerX (Apr 27, 2013)

Little late to this party, But FWIW I still use a Fiskars Chopping axe and a Fiskars Bow Saw for smaller jobs around the place, Sometimes even bigger jobs if I'm not in a hurry and just want to have a change of pace (and noise).

Born and raised in Finland, I grew up with these first, Chainsaws later.


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## Dustincoc (Apr 30, 2013)

Guido Salvage said:


> Still waiting for someone to discuss felling or bucking with a maul...



I still remember the time we trimmed a broken skidder cable end with a pair of mauls and a rock.


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## Heavy26R (May 2, 2013)

I have both Gransfors Bruks and a Wetterlings Maul. I split all my wood by hand. Burn about 3-4 cords a year. I find the Gransfors to have a soft poll. The Gransfors started to mushroom right off the bat when beaten with a sledge. I keep filing down any mushroom peel and it appears to have somewhat resolved as the deeper metal must have a better temper. 

The Wetterlings poll is just as hard as a sledge head and doesn't nick or mushroom at all. I like the shape and cutting power of the gransfors head better, but the durability has to go to Wetterlings. The Wetterlings handle had a crack when purchased, and it was going to be a gift, so I just had to order another fast and ended up just keeping the old cracked one. I got them both half price so I didn't bother returning. It broke first use and I could not find a Wetterlings replacement so it got a Gransfors maul handle put on it. 

When I started having the mushrooming of the Gransfors, I contacted them via email and phone and they said return it to the dealer I bought it from. I just kept it and file it off. I did write Wetterlings about my cracked handle and got a response 1-2 months later. I told them too late I already put another handle on it. Both companies have crappy customer service in my opinion, but I didn't buy a chunk of metal and wood to worry about the details. I can shape sharpen and hang it myself. I will say that I broke a Weber wheel yesterday and it was completely my fault. I called weber and they said we'll send you one for free, despite me pointing out I broke it. They said they'd rather have their products in tip top shape working and looking good. Glad to see someone cares about their products.


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