# Splitting Florida Live Oak



## tim cole (Jun 8, 2014)

I've been attempting to split Florida Live Oak for years without much success; my Gransfors Bruks large axe literally bounces off the wood, even after 10-15 attempts (although the oak has cured for a year). The oak's interlocking grain twists and turns, turning what should be a great time into an exhausting and frustrating session. Not much else is available here except for pine.

Is there anyone out there who has achieved some measure of success with a splitting maul? If so, how many pounds? What brand? What style of maul?

Thanks for listening.


----------



## lewis16 (Jun 8, 2014)

You going centre of the wood or the edge? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## tim cole (Jun 8, 2014)

Doesn't seem to make any difference, whether side or middle.


----------



## Guido Salvage (Jun 8, 2014)

Noodle, Monster Maul or hydraulic splitter.


----------



## thefeckerwest (Jun 10, 2014)

A company in Austria called Muller produce splitting mauls of various sizes made from high quality steel. I have their heaviest one which weighs 11lbs (5kg). It has a sharp edge, and is the best maul that I have ever used. Wood that is difficult to split needs to be attacked with something with weight. The Gransfors Bruks item, even though it is a top quality product, is too light for your job. Search for 'Muller Maul' on the internet. They have a catalogue which can be accessed. This maul might not do the entire job by itself. Get a good pair of wedges and a sizeable sledgehammer, say 14 to 16lbs, or more if you can handle it. If you have the fitness/technique/strength to use these tools, you are well on your way.


----------



## lewis16 (Jun 10, 2014)

Log splitter might be an option then as it's so hard. I wonder if drilling a hole dead centre and then sticking a wood grenade in there 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## thefeckerwest (Jun 10, 2014)

I have found the wood grenade to be unsatisfactory as it tries to open up the wood in all directions at the same time, which is inefficient, and a waste of energy. In my experience the best wedge to use is a Leborgne which will make one split and twists as it is driven into the wood by the sledge. Never try to open a block of wood from the centre. Stay out near the edge where the rings are wider. It is easier to start a split from there. Splitting wood can be tough enough, without making it unnecessarily harder for yourself.


----------



## lewis16 (Jun 10, 2014)

Fair enough. I only have experience splitting with an axe on stuff that wasn't a problem. I've always one edges and work in. Wood grenade isn't surprising as it seems too 'popular' if you catch my drift. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tim cole (Jun 10, 2014)

thefeckerwest said:


> A company in Austria called Muller produce splitting mauls of various sizes made from high quality steel. I have their heaviest one which weighs 11lbs (5kg). It is heavy with a sharp edge, and is the best maul that I have ever used. Wood that is difficult to split needs to be attacked with something with weight. The Gransfurs Bruks item, even though it is a top quality product, is too light for your job. Search for 'Muller Maul' on the internet. They have a catalogue which can be accessed. This maul by itself might not do the entire job by itself. Get a good pair of wedges and a sizeable sledgehammer, say 14 to 16lbs, or more if you can handle it. If you have the fitness/technique/strength to use these tools, you are well on your way.



Appreciate the response. Per your recommendation, I investigated the Muller Maul; looks nice; but only has a 6 1/2 lb head, look like. Wondered how effective a 6 lb. head would be on the iron-hard FL Live Oak. Thanks


----------



## thefeckerwest (Jun 10, 2014)

Investigate more. In Page 10 of their 2013 catalogue under art no. 0257 and art no. 0259, they make eight (8) different size mauls from 2kg (4.4lb) to 5kg( 11lb). You are referring to the 3kg (6.6lb) item. This is too light. Go for the heaviest weight that you can manage. 0257 have ash handles and 0259 have ones made from hickory.


----------



## Rudedog (Jun 10, 2014)

I can't see using anything but a hydraulic splitter. I have an Ox Head "Big Ox" splitting maul with a 6.6 lbs. head. I can split a lot of stuff with it. But when I get to stringy white oak or elm I defer to the machine. The Big Ox is a nice maul but it is pricey at $120.


----------



## tim cole (Jun 10, 2014)

thefeckerwest said:


> Investigate more. In Page 10 of their 2013 catalogue under art no. 0257 and art no. 0259, they make eight (8) different size mauls from 2kg (4.4lb) to 5kg( 11lb). You are referring to the 3kg (6.6lb) item. This is too light. Go for the heaviest weight that you can manage. 0257 have ash handles and 0259 have ones makes from hickory.


Ok. Thanks for the tip. I'll look them up again and examine what they have available. I imagine they have a US source for them, right?


----------



## woodchuck357 (Jun 11, 2014)

Splitting mauls are just wedges with handles. The handles are used to throw the head at wood. The quality of the metal is relatively unimportant. The weight and shape is what does the work. A sharp, polished, convex edge that enters the wood, then spreads the fibers apart quickly, without sticking, works best. Bopping tangents off around the edge is the best way, for me, to split live oak. I like to split as soon as possible after the tree is dropped. Sometimes turning the round over will make a world of difference. Some split easier with the root end up, others split best setting the way they grew. If you can split live oak well, you can split most anything on this continent!
If you use wedges watch for them to hop out, sometimes with great force, when you hit them. I like wedges that have sharp edges and slightly concave faces because they stay in the wood better. The gimmick wedges with twists and multiple faces don't work any better than the plain ones.


----------



## thefeckerwest (Jun 11, 2014)

tim cole said:


> Ok. Thanks for the tip. I'll look them up again and examine what they have available. I imagine they have a US source for them, right?


The American distributor appears to be Traditional Woodworker, 885E Collins Blvd Suite 104, Richardson, TX 75081. Type in 'Leonhard Muller maul', and search through the results. You should get all the information that you require. A word of caution: like any quality product, these mauls are not cheap.


----------



## tim cole (Jun 12, 2014)

thefeckerwest said:


> The American distributor appears to be Traditional Woodworker, 885E Collins Blvd Suite 104, Richardson, TX 75081. Type in 'Leonhard Muller maul', and search through the results. You should get all the information that you require. A word of caution: like any quality product, these mauls are not cheap.


Appreciate the added information; will phone them today to inquire if they have the Leonhard Muller Maul. Thanks


----------



## tim cole (Jun 12, 2014)

tim cole said:


> Appreciate the added information; will phone them today to inquire if they have the Leonhard Muller Maul. Thanks


Found out today that The Traditional Woodworker does not carry the 10-12 lbs. splitting maul; has to be specially ordered from Austria and the price for shipping would be astronomical. Bottom line: looks like I've reached a dead-end with MULLER MAULS. I'll keep looking for a well-designed 10 lbs. maul..


----------



## CTYank (Jun 14, 2014)

thefeckerwest said:


> A company in Austria called Muller produce splitting mauls of various sizes made from high quality steel. I have their heaviest one which weighs 11lbs (5kg). It has a sharp edge, and is the best maul that I have ever used. Wood that is difficult to split needs to be attacked with something with weight. The Gransfurs Bruks item, even though it is a top quality product, is too light for your job. Search for 'Muller Maul' on the internet. They have a catalogue which can be accessed. This maul might not do the entire job by itself. Get a good pair of wedges and a sizeable sledgehammer, say 14 to 16lbs, or more if you can handle it. If you have the fitness/technique/strength to use these tools, you are well on your way.



Mueller's retail sales in US are handled by traditionalwoodworker dot com /wood-axes-knives/departments/525/. Didn't know they make a 5 kg maul. I've had their 3 kg (6.5 lb) for 3 yrs, and find it to be a finely crafted beast. With years' use, the only change is the polished area extending farther from the edge. Really gnarly stuff yields to this maul more than any other I've seen. In fact, the 3 kg maul head is a bit heavier than what seems optimum to me (5-5.5 lb), but is close enough. This maul was such a revelation to me, it was almost addictive.

This maul's steel and heat treatment are outstanding, for the combo of hardness and toughness- dare you to leave a mark on the poll driving wedges. At $150, well worth it to me, especially compared to Gransfors prices. Potential heirloom. 

Sometimes, it's advisable to cheat- noodle a groove as deep as the saw's bar is wide, set a wedge in the far end, then use the maul on the near end. Least mess, least fuss.


----------



## thefeckerwest (Jun 16, 2014)

tim cole said:


> Found out today that The Traditional Woodworker does not carry the 10-12 lbs. splitting maul; has to be specially ordered from Austria and the price for shipping would be astronomical. Bottom line: looks like I've reached a dead-end with MULLER MAULS. I'll keep looking for a well-designed 10 lbs. maul..


All of the Muller 'stuff' has to come from Austria, and if your maul came in with a regular order, it should not add anything extra- -or very little- to the retail price. Are these people just being lazy? Mine was brought in this way after I ordered it specially, and while it was expensive, it was not excessively so. Traditional Woodworker probably only takes these orders a few times in the year. If your item was added to the list, you might have to wait for a few months to get it. It would be worth the delay. You may have been talking to the wrong 'salesperson'. Get them to quote a retail price for you and get the item added to the next 'regular' order. A final reminder: a quality product like this, is expensive.


----------



## tim cole (Jun 16, 2014)

Hey, thanks for the additional information. I'll phone them again and give it another try in ordering the muller maul. Much appreciated


----------



## Rudedog (Jun 16, 2014)

tim cole said:


> Hey, thanks for the additional information. I'll phone them again and give it another try in ordering the muller maul. Much appreciated


Let us know how it goes. I could use a heavier Muller. They may be more willing if they get additional orders.


----------



## tim cole (Jun 17, 2014)

Rudedog said:


> Let us know how it goes. I could use a heavier Muller. They may be more willing if they get additional orders.


Spoke with the folk at Traditional Woodworker today; just missed the shipment that went out from Muller in Austria. Next shipment will be in 4-6 months, depending on orders made between now and then. They will contact me when they are about to make another order from Muller. Shipping costs this way are minimal: $12.95; 10-11 lbs. Maul (5000 g) is $173.00 with hickory handle; $149.00 with ash handle.


----------



## Kfd518 (Jun 17, 2014)

Large maul or sledge and narrow sharp wedges. I work with twisted gnarly live oak here as well. Still not easy this way but the stuff will stall a 35ton splitter


----------



## tim cole (Jun 17, 2014)

Unlike other types of wood, if you allow Live Oak here in FL to cure for a year, it only gets harder and harder. I used a sledge and a sharpened wedge in an attempt to split a Live Oak round with a knot; just wouldn't split, even after 10-20 good strikes. And I have a mountain of Live Oak rounds left to split. But it is good exercise for a Pastor!


----------



## Kfd518 (Jun 17, 2014)

Same with the L.O. Here it's what I prefer to burn. Crotches and obvious knots do get noodled, even though it does a pretty good job on bar and chain. Have had 3 wedges buried in a 10" round before to get it finished! Seems the bigger it is the easier it is to work with though. 18"+ is almost a dream!
Not to derail, but I see you're a pastor, am elder myself… L.O. Is great for relieving frustration and headaches!


----------



## Thornton (Jun 17, 2014)

On our tough live oaks or any tough splitting wood i usually start splitting at the edges working in a circle towards the center with a 8lb maul


----------



## tim cole (Jun 18, 2014)

Kfd518 said:


> Same with the L.O. Here it's what I prefer to burn. Crotches and obvious knots do get noodled, even though it does a pretty good job on bar and chain. Have had 3 wedges buried in a 10" round before to get it finished! Seems the bigger it is the easier it is to work with though. 18"+ is almost a dream!
> Not to derail, but I see you're a pastor, am elder myself… L.O. Is great for relieving frustration and headaches!


If you are an Elder, then you are also a Pastor (Acts 20:28; 1 Peter 5:1-3); The word "Pastor" from Ephesians 4:12ff is, unfortunately, a Latin carry over word and if correctly translated is "Shepherd." Elders are shepherds are "Pastors" are Overseers; all interchangeable terms used to describe the team that leads the church. I see you're in Texas; did my seminary training in Dallas, Texas!
In any case, I found a 10 lbs. maul head on e-bay. Will try to purchase it and find an appropriate handle. Then, perhaps, can make some headway on the stubborn LIVE Oak. I won't give up on it yet. All the best to you with the same!


----------



## thefeckerwest (Jun 20, 2014)

tim cole said:


> Spoke with the folk at Traditional Woodworker today; just missed the shipment that went out from Muller in Austria. Next shipment will be in 4-6 months, depending on orders made between now and then. They will contact me when they are about to make another order from Muller. Shipping costs this way are minimal: $12.95; 10-11 lbs. Maul (5000 g) is $173.00 with hickory handle; $149.00 with ash handle.


In my opinion an ash handle would do just fine. Wrap some suitable cable around the handle next to the maul-head and then cover it with tape. If it is done properly, it will protect the handle from overstrike.


----------



## tim cole (Jul 5, 2014)

Update: The Traditional Woodworker has agreed to contact me when they make their next order from Muller in Austria. Can't wait.
In addition, I found a 10 lbs. Maul head on e-bay--not the same design as the Muller--but still 10 lbs. Received it in the mail, inserted a nice Ames hickory handle and started on my pile of (cured for a year) Florida Live Oak rounds. I tried hitting it in the middle first where I spotted a few micro-cracks. The 10 lbs. maul head literally bounced off the round. WOW! After 4-5 more attempts with all my strength, same results. The maul acted like a rubber ball on concrete.

So, not to be defeated with my new maul, I went for a small slice on the side; the head penetrated deep enough for me to finish with my 8 lbs. sledge hammer. Almost took 15 minutes to take the round completely apart. I can do more damage to concrete with my maul than Florida Live Oak. But the good news: the oak will burn slow in "winter."


----------



## thefeckerwest (Jul 6, 2014)

tim cole said:


> Update: The Traditional Woodworker has agreed to contact me when they make their next order from Muller in Austria. Can't wait.
> In addition, I found a 10 lbs. Maul head on e-bay--not the same design as the Muller--but still 10 lbs. Received it in the mail, inserted a nice Ames hickory handle and started on my pile of (cured for a year) Florida Live Oak rounds. I tried hitting it in the middle first where I spotted a few micro-cracks. The 10 lbs. maul head literally bounced off the round. WOW! After 4-5 more attempts with all my strength, same results. The maul acted like a rubber ball on concrete.
> 
> So, not to be defeated with my new maul, I went for a small slice on the side; the head penetrated deep enough for me to finish with my 8 lbs. sledge hammer. Almost took 15 minutes to take the round completely apart. I can do more damage to concrete with my maul than Florida Live Oak. But the good news: the oak will burn slow in "winter."


If you want to get that Muller maul, I would not depend on them making contact with you before the next order goes in. Place the order with them now, or soon.
As regards splitting the oak, remember what was said earlier. Attack the round first from the outside, where the rings are at their widest. Going down the middle, only makes hard work harder. Out of curiosity, how did you 'finish' with the 8lbs. sledge hammer? I would have thought that once the round was opened up, it would be relatively easy to continue with the maul.


----------



## tim cole (Jul 6, 2014)

thefeckerwest said:


> If you want to get that Muller maul, I would not depend on them making contact with you before the next order goes in. Place the order with them now, or soon.
> As regards splitting the oak, remember what was said earlier. Attack the round first from the outside, where the rings are at their widest. Going down the middle, only makes hard work harder. Out of curiosity, how did you 'finish' with the 8lbs. sledge hammer? I would have thought that once the round was opened up, it would be relatively easy to continue with the maul.


Well, as I got closer to the middle of the round, more resistance was experienced; so I made small cuts and then used two wedges with the sledge hammer. That did it; but it took a while. And I have a huge pile to go. But it's good exercise, nonetheless. I also picked up some additional, freshly cut Live Oak, two weeks down. After a few attempts with the maul, I gave up. The rounds just laughed at me. So, I'll get at 'em some other time. Thanks fort your response.


----------



## 250R (Aug 2, 2014)

I found another maul you might be interested in. Its called Oxhead. Made in Germany. I just ordered the one with the broad splitting head for hardwoods.


----------



## tim cole (Aug 2, 2014)

Do you have a link to the site where the Oxhead was ordered? How many pounds is the maul? Thanks


----------



## 250R (Aug 2, 2014)

It's 6.5 lbs without the handle. The best price I found was from the company called Highland Woodworking in GA.


----------



## tim cole (Aug 2, 2014)

Ok, Thanks. I'll check it out. If you use it on Live Oak rounds, please let me know how it goes for you.


----------



## LarryRFL (Aug 2, 2014)

I use a metal splitting wedge and a sledge hammer. A couple taps with the hammer to set the wedge, then drive it home. And yes, I live in Florida and have live oaks on my property.


----------



## 250R (Aug 3, 2014)

I like the design of the head and metal sleeve over the handle. When i was a kid living at home we split all the wood by hand. When the barrels wouldnt split easy with the maul we would use a sledge to drive the maul through. We tried the wedges but they always had a tendancy to pop out... PITA. Holding the maul and using the sledge at the same time worked the best for us. Yes you need 2 people. And the broad head split them better. Granted no live oak here in the Northeast but it worked well on everthing else we split.


----------

