# What Chain for Ripping



## Can8ianTimber (Aug 19, 2009)

I know this has been talked about befor but it always seems to be an side topic of another thread so I thought I would post the questions.

I am getting another bar and getting geared up for a large chainsaw mill project and it is time to get new chain. I have to run 404 because of the thickness of the bar. I have not used ripping chain recently but I think it would be for this project since it will be a 6' wide cut. 

Here are the options I have found

Oregon Chain for lucas slabers http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=OR404+27RX&catID=202
Sounds good for wide cuts but it is $.42/drive link. 

Woodland Pro 43RP http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=WP404+43RP&catID=202
Cheaper but I don't know about quality

Stihl - I did not see any ripping chain on their website. http://www.stihlusa.com/chain-guide-bar/saw-chain.html

I don't have the experience to modify grind another chain so does anyone have any other options that you would recomend. Thanks


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## Ironbark (Aug 19, 2009)

Granberg make a ripping chain which has some pretty unique "scoring cutters" which I'd imagine works pretty well.

I've always used the Woodland Pro and it seems fine to me.


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## mtngun (Aug 19, 2009)

I'm pretty happy with the 0.375" version of Woodland Pro. It does stretch a lot the first time you use it, but once it has "broken in" the stretch seems to stop.

I regrind to 15 degrees for softwood.


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## BobL (Aug 19, 2009)

Can8ianTimber said:


> I know this has been talked about befor but it always seems to be an side topic of another thread so I thought I would post the questions.
> 
> I am getting another bar and getting geared up for a large chainsaw mill project and it is time to get new chain. I have to run 404 because of the thickness of the bar.


How thick is the bar? I run 3/8 on my 60" bars which are both 0.238" thick without any problems so far. I expect to possibly have a problem only when the cutter gets very short



> I have not used ripping chain recently but I think it would be for this project since it will be a 6' wide cut.


 The 6' length in aussie hardwood would worry me a little with 3/8 but aggiewoodbutcher has run 3/8 successfully at this length.



> I don't have the experience to modify grind another chain so does anyone have any other options that you would recomend. Thanks



I use Carlton full comp chain which I refile to 10º top plate. I find it lasts longer than Oregon in Aussie hardwood, and is a lot cheaper than stihl chain. I don't know the Woodland.


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## dustytools (Aug 19, 2009)

Another vote here for the Woodland Pro from Baileys. IMO it is the best bang for your buck.


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## woodsrunner (Aug 20, 2009)

I've been using the woodland pro ripping chain from baileys. Works fine except it dulls easily and quickly, imo. I recently tried a loop of Stihl 36RSC (regular Stihl crosscuting chain) and was very impressed with it. It seemed to cut faster and easier and certainly stayed sharp longer. Cut surface was rougher than the woodland pro ripping chain. Cost was also about 2x more than the woodland pro. I need to do some timed cuts and compare to really be certain but first impressions were very good for me.

Scott


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## billstuewe (Aug 20, 2009)

I have just gone through this same research for a 6' bar/mill setup. The saw Mfg recommend .404 for anything over about 50" but many sawyers use 3/8 on the longer bars. It may stretch more but it takes a bit less kerf and a bit less HP to pull it--which should translate into a bit faster cutting speed. 
I talked with Bob at Baileys Saturday and he said that the Woodsman Pro is made by Carlton and Carlton is owned by Oregon. So-o-o-o, you tell me who has been sleeping with whom?? He did say that they are NOT the same chain, Oregon just bought them out and kept it running as it was.???? He also said that the Woodsman Pro chain was the one most sold with his Lucas Slabbers. 
Back to your bar--both .404 and 3/8 are .63 guage. If you swap out the .404 nose sprocket with a 3/8 then you can run 3/8. 

Bill


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## dave k (Aug 23, 2009)

I just converted Stihl RSC .404 .63 to a 10 degree top plate angle and am very happy with the smoother and faster cut. I'll give the Rapid Micro the same treatment and see how that performs ?
We only really get Stihl chain here and that tends to be RSC as for Oregon and Carlton they are available but again limited choice and supply.


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## Roy M (Aug 23, 2009)

The only difference between ripping and cross cut chain is the grind so you can make your own if necessary. Some ripping chain manufacturers vary the cutter spacing but it is not necessary.


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## SilverBox (Aug 23, 2009)

I mill with regular chain, it cuts a bit faster then ripping chain and the finish actually is pretty good.


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## BobL (Aug 23, 2009)

billstuewe said:


> Back to your bar--both .404 and 3/8 are .63 guage. If you swap out the .404 nose sprocket with a 3/8 then you can run 3/8.



Not necessarily, it depends on the bar thickness. There are some extra thick 0.063" bars around - I think they are dedicated slabber bars - that are too thick for 3/8 chain - they are OK at first but when the cutter wears down to about 1/2 way 3/8 doesn't cut a wide enough kerf and they can bind, especially in wide cuts which do not enable chain to clear sawdust as easily.


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## BIG JAKE (Aug 25, 2009)

Another vote for Woodland Pro. I haven't been in hardwood yet but in softwood I could probably go all day cutting if I don't hit anything it's been holding up real well and stretch has not been a problem either I've been ripping green pine and fir. I usually put a few strokes on the chain midday to maintain max speed per cut. Nice finish to the lumber too.


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## Can8ianTimber (Aug 25, 2009)

Thanks Guys. I think I am going to go with the Woodland Pro. It is probably not as good as the Stihl or Oregon but at half the price I would say it is the best value. Thanks for the feedback. I will post pics of cutting in a couple weeks.


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## LAndrews (Aug 25, 2009)

IF you want Stihl, try the RSFLK - it's a full-skip version (they may have it in full or semi comp, dono) that has the top plate angle at roughly 12 degrees. I used that milling once with good results. This chain needs to be square ground though which makes filing/resharpening less straightforward. I haven't gotten around to getting the right file yet so the chain (and new 3/8 bar) just hang in the garage...

The Bailey's chain works fine but does stretch quite a bit when new. I also tried an Oregon chain (27R, IIRC) that performed very nearly the same - got it from Madsen's. 

Haven't tried the Granberg chain but it too requires the square file and is quite spendy. 

It's been my experience that a newish bar and relatively new chain will pretty much produce good cuts. Old, raggedy hardware just can't control the chain the same way.


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