# stihl boot



## gilraine (Mar 24, 2009)

well today I took the 026 to my foot..21 stitches later..hurts pretty good, but it could have been worse.. My girlfriend has told me no more cutting till I get a good pair of cut resistant boots.. I had on a helmet, chaps, ear and eye protection, but the foot got cut.. my question is what is everyone's experience with the stihl protective boots???? if they are no good, what is a good substitute.. thanks and stay safe


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## masiman (Mar 24, 2009)

gilraine said:


> well today I took the 026 to my foot..21 stitches later..hurts pretty good, but it could have been worse.. My girlfriend has told me no more cutting till I get a good pair of cut resistant boots.. I had on a helmet, chaps, ear and eye protection, but the foot got cut.. my question is what is everyone's experience with the stihl protective boots???? if they are no good, what is a good substitute.. thanks and stay safe



I like a steel toe boot. The composite toe boots are nice but a sharp chain will go through them fairly quick. I'll assume the cut resistant boots will offer better pro than regular steel toed logging boots.

What kind of shoes were you wearing? Can you post some pics (shoe and maybe the injury) in the Injuries and Fatalities Forum?

I hope your foot is okay and that you heal from the injury.


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## Philbert (Mar 24, 2009)

Steel toed boots are good for protecting the toes, but they do not protect the sides of your feet from a chainsaw cut. There are a number of boots with protective fabric, similar to that used in chaps, on the sides. 

Inexpensive ones are rubber boots - around $100. Leather ones are $200+. They are required in some states by OSHA. I don't have a brand to recommend, but my local dealer sells some, and I see some in the catalogs.

Sorry about your foot. Hope those are the last stitches you receive.

Philbert


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## gilraine (Mar 24, 2009)

Philbert said:


> Steel toed boots are good for protecting the toes, but they do not protect the sides of your feet from a chainsaw cut. There are a number of boots with protective fabric, similar to that used in chaps, on the sides.
> 
> Inexpensive ones are rubber boots - around $100. Leather ones are $200+. They are required in some states by OSHA. I don't have a brand to recommend, but my local dealer sells some, and I see some in the catalogs.
> 
> ...


the saw came in behind the steel toe.. the stihl ones are said to protect the complete foot...they are 220 bucks, I may order a pair and see for myself.... it could have been alot worse... no bone or tendon damage, just a nasty scar..I'll try and get some pictures, gotta see if I can borrow a camera..


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## Taxmantoo (Mar 24, 2009)

Labonville (site sponsor) sells boots and boot liners. 
The boot liners sound like the economical way to go in the winter (with oversized boots). 

http://www.labonville.com/shop/pc/viewCat_h.asp?idCategory=41


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## Philbert (Mar 24, 2009)

gilraine said:


> the saw came in behind the steel toe..


!!!!!Ouch!!!!!

But a great question - where exactly does the protection cover (and where does it NOT)? Obviously, chaps leave significant parts of your leg and (ahem) exposed.

When I work in steel mills, I am required to wear safety boots with 'metatarsal guards' that provide impact protection from the toes up the instep. These are NOT designed as chainsaw protective boots, and do NOT provide any side protection. But they would protect that area where you got cut. Have not worn mine in the woods.

Here are some examples from one company (some of the metatarsal guards are hidden below the laces and difficult to see - others are plainly obvious, and also protect the laces - nice in a steel mill with flying sparks!) http://www.ironageworkboots.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=37&osCsid=6e6254453236f3858c63e4d5a339bfe6

Philbert


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## Philbert (Mar 24, 2009)

taxmantoo said:


> Labonville (site sponsor) sells boots and boot liners. The boot liners sound like the economical way to go in the winter (with oversized boots). [/url]



Need to get B_Turner and JeepNJesse to cut up, I mean 'test' a set of these too!

Philbert


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## 371groundie (Mar 24, 2009)

+1 for labonvilles. i like the 2inch logger heel.


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## blewgrass (Mar 24, 2009)

love my labonville boots. fit good, steel toe with scuff guard, and they have kevlar to help mitigate injury. they were under $180 too.


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## spankrz (Mar 24, 2009)

gilraine said:


> well today I took the 026 to my foot..21 stitches later..hurts pretty good, but it could have been worse.. My girlfriend has told me no more cutting till I get a good pair of cut resistant boots.. I had on a helmet, chaps, ear and eye protection, but the foot got cut.. my question is what is everyone's experience with the stihl protective boots???? if they are no good, what is a good substitute.. thanks and stay safe



i have a pair of the stihl pro-mark boots. they are leather boots, steel toed, and have kevlar in them for the saw protection. honestly, they are a really good boot. they are a little heavy, but if you don't mind that, they are as comfortable as any boot i have ever had. you can walk all day without skipping a beat in a pair of pro-marks. --but-- they're not cheap...


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## fishercat (Mar 25, 2009)

*what size do you wear?*



gilraine said:


> well today I took the 026 to my foot..21 stitches later..hurts pretty good, but it could have been worse.. My girlfriend has told me no more cutting till I get a good pair of cut resistant boots.. I had on a helmet, chaps, ear and eye protection, but the foot got cut.. my question is what is everyone's experience with the stihl protective boots???? if they are no good, what is a good substitute.. thanks and stay safe



i have a pair of leather Husqvarna chainsaw boots with vibram soles.made here in the good old USA.they are size 13.i have only worn them for climbing.they have some scuffs but are still in great shape.


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## gilraine (Mar 25, 2009)

fishercat said:


> i have a pair of leather Husqvarna chainsaw boots with vibram soles.made here in the good old USA.they are size 13.i have only worn them for climbing.they have some scuffs but are still in great shape.



thanks for the offer, but they would be too big for me, I only wear an 11.. this blasted percocet makes it so I can't sleep...


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## Jumper (Mar 26, 2009)

Go with a pair of Royers


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## Greenstar (Mar 27, 2009)

My suggestion is take The Arbormaster training class on chainsaw safety, and just be more careful next time. A good pair of redwings, or any good quality full grain leather boot should be just fine. Just be more careful next time!  And don't cut with a dull saw!


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## gilraine (Mar 27, 2009)

Greenstar said:


> My suggestion is take The Arbormaster training class on chainsaw safety, and just be more careful next time. A good pair of redwings, or any good quality full grain leather boot should be just fine. Just be more careful next time!  And don't cut with a dull saw!



I'm not eligible for that course.. I keep my saws sharp...I had pair of danners on at the time.. I am looking for a piece of PPE, not a regular boot...


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## Greenstar (Mar 27, 2009)

gilraine said:


> I'm not eligible for that course.. .



Yes you are. ANyone can take it. Even if its your first day! I'll look it up and provide the link in a minute.


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## Greenstar (Mar 27, 2009)

Its called:
Level 1 Precision Felling, Chain Saw Handling, Safety & Ergonomics. "No pre-requisites required." http://www.arbormaster.com/services/hands_on_module.php


And they are offering it June 24-25 in your area http://www.arbormaster.com/services/locations_schedules.php

Its actually great stuff. I was reluctant to spend the $500, but it is worth it if you are planning on really learning this industry. Also, look. You get 15% off a husky saw! And 10% off a Sherrill Tree order! Sweet! :rockn:


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## M.Green - SVTS (Mar 27, 2009)

Mainly, you can wear all the protection you want if you are careless you still might catch yourself with the saw. All the teflon you can put on couldn't completely save you from the saw. You might solve the feet problem but how about your face?


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## gilraine (Mar 27, 2009)

M.Green - SVTS said:


> Mainly, you can wear all the protection you want if you are careless you still might catch yourself with the saw. All the teflon you can put on couldn't completely save you from the saw. You might solve the feet problem but how about your face?



i use a helmet with a face shield... I understand being careful with the saw.. I am trying to minimize the possible danger.. why not use something that may give that extra second.. a 300 dollar pair of boots is alot cheaper than an ER visit...I kind of like my toes, I want to do what I can to keep them...lets face it, chainsaws are dangerous, no way around that.. I want to protect myself as best I can...


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## Tree Pig (Mar 27, 2009)

*arbormaster*

not sure how strictly they inforce it but this is their policy on attending.
http://www.arbormaster.com/services/eligibility_to_attend.php


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## Philbert (Mar 27, 2009)

M.Green - SVTS said:


> . . . you can wear all the protection you want if you are careless you still might catch yourself with the saw. All the teflon you can put on couldn't completely save you from the saw.



???????

I never understand this 'logic'.

If you wear *no* protection, and *are* careful, you might *still* 'catch yourself with the saw'.

This is a better position to be in? Luck and attention spans only last so long.

Philbert


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## Slvrmple72 (Mar 27, 2009)

Sorry to hear about your foot. You can kick yourself once it heals up The best thing an older fella told me was to develop an awareness of your body and the saw at all times keeping the chainsaw bar away from you and also watching out for times where kickback would put you in harms way. When I started climbing that awareness had a whole new dimension to deal with when trying to cut limbs and not always being in the best position to do the cut safely... reposition, add another tie-in, etc. On the ground keep at least 4' away from anyone running a saw and if you have a couple of guys cutting make sure you watch out for eachother. Safety equipment is only half of the equation... a safety mindset and proper training is the other half. Knowing when to quit because you are tired, hungry, distracted, or upset about something is common sense.


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## Tree Pig (Mar 28, 2009)

Slvrmple72 said:


> Knowing when to quit because you are tired, hungry, distracted, or upset about something is common sense.



That's huge right there. I have had some close calls over the years. End of a long day and I dragged the tip of the bar across the top of my boot once when I wasnt wearing steel toes. Cut all the way to the top of my sock, just missed my toes and wrecked a $200 pair of chippewas. Never cut without steel toes again. Again end of a long day didnt feel like walking back to the truck and getting my chaps, finishing a cleanup just a few cuts to go. Arms a little heavy dropped the saw a too low and across my thigh cut a nice dotted line across my pants just missed my leg. Never cut without my chaps again.

Got to realize when your getting too tired to be safe and call it a day or at least slow down and think about what your doing.


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## gilraine (May 10, 2009)

I got them in today, nice quality, really wide though.. that is good for me..the heel is drilled for caulks, gonna gonna add some on the next order from baileys..nice and comfrortable, but not as nice as my danners..


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## scottedward58 (May 23, 2009)

*re "not as nice as my danners"*

before or after the cut


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## mowoodchopper (May 23, 2009)

:


gilraine said:


> I got them in today, nice quality, really wide though.. that is good for me..the heel is drilled for caulks, gonna gonna add some on the next order from baileys..nice and comfrortable, but not as nice as my danners..



 I like your sig!


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## slowp (May 24, 2009)

Buy a very very expensive pair of hand made boots. Believe me, you'll pay attention to where your feet are. Knowing where your feet are is the best PPE for them. Maybe slap some bright colored duct tape on them too.


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## Wishie22 (Jun 9, 2009)

gilraine said:


> I got them in today, nice quality, really wide though.. that is good for me..the heel is drilled for caulks, gonna gonna add some on the next order from baileys..nice and comfrortable, but not as nice as my danners..



Hows the foot? 

Was doing a search on PPE when I read your post. Was wondering how you made out with the job hunting, PM'ed you a while back. Been considering investing in some PPE boots too, not cheap. Cheaper than being laid up though. 

Not allot of understanding from others posts until their in a situation, and made a miscalculation. At-least you shared your experience and are being proactive to minimize a repeat situation. How are the boots, comfortable?


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## gilraine (Jun 10, 2009)

Wishie22 said:


> Hows the foot?
> 
> Was doing a search on PPE when I read your post. Was wondering how you made out with the job hunting, PM'ed you a while back. Been considering investing in some PPE boots too, not cheap. Cheaper than being laid up though.
> 
> Not allot of understanding from others posts until their in a situation, and made a miscalculation. At-least you shared your experience and are being proactive to minimize a repeat situation. How are the boots, comfortable?



pretty nice, little wide for me..I still have no feeling on the top of the big toe on that foot, doctor says it may never come back..it healed really well, the cute PA that sewed it up did a good job  I am working in the bobs discount furniture warehouse, but might be leaving that to go to work with Sprigs and Twigs..the nerve damage and the scar shiould be the only lasting consequences...could have been much worse..


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## Wishie22 (Jun 10, 2009)

gilraine said:


> pretty nice, little wide for me..I still have no feeling on the top of the big toe on that foot, doctor says it may never come back..it healed really well, the cute PA that sewed it up did a good job  I am working in the bobs discount furniture warehouse, but might be leaving that to go to work with Sprigs and Twigs..the nerve damage and the scar shiould be the only lasting consequences...could have been much worse..



Glad to hear your healed up for the most part (nerve and scar tissue aside, hopefully the nerve does not cause you pain in the future). 

Good luck with the Sprigs & Twigs gig. Tough market for most fields of work. Trying to get more local, most just don't have enough work to keep the crews going. If work picks up I hope to invest into more PPE, with new stihl full wrap chaps on order. Chaps took a beating this past season when topping trees (briar's, twigs, etc.), still decent but getting warn.

Do the boot run real wide(I have wide feet but not extra wide), thick socks help?


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## gilraine (Jun 11, 2009)

I wear an 11E in my danners, and they fit well.. people with really narrow feet should look elsewhere..


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## outofmytree (Jun 22, 2009)

Philbert said:


> ???????
> 
> I never understand this 'logic'.
> 
> ...



It is easy to read a post and be judgemental, just as it is easy to have a "blonde" moment and slip with a saw. Training for hazardous work reduces accidents. Don't take my word for it, check the statistics.

My personal favourites are Haix Protectors. These are purpose made for spurs with a steel sole plate so they are less comfortable for felling or bucking. If I could easily lay my hands on the same pair of boots without the plate I would buy 2 pairs!


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## rowc (Jul 24, 2009)

I work for a company with very experienced sawmen. Today one of them was limbing a tree, and the chain saw kicked back, and cut the side of his foot. He is on his way to the orthopedic surgon to reattach tendons. What is the best cut resistant boot out there for my men?


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## masiman (Jul 24, 2009)

rowc said:


> I work for a company with very experienced sawmen. Today one of them was limbing a tree, and the chain saw kicked back, and cut the side of his foot. He is on his way to the orthopedic surgon to reattach tendons. What is the best cut resistant boot out there for my men?



There are a number of chainsaw safety boots available. I'm not sure that "best" will be a simple answer.

For basic protection a steel toe boot can help, but only protects the toe box. I think the chainsaw specific safety boots have protection for the entire foot area. You'll need to decide if they will need leather or rubber versions of work boots.

I am very sorry to hear about this accident. My sincerest wishes for a full recovery. After some thought you might want to consider posting what you can in the Injuries and Fatalities forum.


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## Philbert (Jul 24, 2009)

masiman said:


> For basic protection a steel toe boot can help, but only protects the toe box. I think the chainsaw specific safety boots have protection for the entire foot area.



'Chainsaw safety' boots have material similar to that used in chaps in the side areas of the boots. I am not sure if this is continuous over the entire foot.

Check out the following YouTube video on the effectiveness of steel toes!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pequmgt21Lw


Philbert


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## masiman (Jul 24, 2009)

Philbert said:


> 'Chainsaw safety' boots have material similar to that used in chaps in the side areas of the boots. I am not sure if this is continuous over the entire foot.
> 
> Check out the following YouTube video on the effectiveness of steel toes!
> 
> ...



I agree about the "entire foot" comment. I couldn't find specs that indicated where the material was located. I have only seen the rubber versions once and don't recall their exact construction and don't know that it was obvious where the protection was provided.

This vid is similar except that the boot has a composite toe.


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## outofmytree (Jul 24, 2009)

Haix protectors are two layer leather with kapok between to stop a chain with an inertia brake just as saw proof pants or chaps do. Which brings up the point that no matter what saw ppe you wear if the chain brake isnt working you will not stop any saw untill it has cut whatever it hits......


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## rowc (Jul 27, 2009)

Thank you for all the info. The employee was wearing steel toe boots. He was cut on the side, past were the steel toe protects.


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## firewood guy (Nov 12, 2010)

gilraine said:


> well today I took the 026 to my foot..21 stitches later..hurts pretty good, but it could have been worse.. My girlfriend has told me no more cutting till I get a good pair of cut resistant boots.. I had on a helmet, chaps, ear and eye protection, but the foot got cut.. my question is what is everyone's experience with the stihl protective boots???? if they are no good, what is a good substitute.. thanks and stay safe



Sorry about you're injury.. I was just looking up info for protective footwear myself. I have always worn steel-toe full leather boots, but when you look up the injury stats (OSHA, Stihl, whoever ) leather only boots do nothing to protect you ESPECIALLY if you have a sharp chain!! A dull chain might be better. Obv there is no substitute for good safety / posture practices but stuff happens real quick when you're turnin' & burnin' wood. Anyone like the STIHL pro-marks? Expensive, but not compared to a foot.....Mike


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## fishercat (Nov 15, 2010)

*if you dont mind.......*






spankrz said:


> i have a pair of the stihl pro-mark boots. they are leather boots, steel toed, and have kevlar in them for the saw protection. honestly, they are a really good boot. they are a little heavy, but if you don't mind that, they are as comfortable as any boot i have ever had. you can walk all day without skipping a beat in a pair of pro-marks. --but-- they're not cheap...



Could you look and see where they are made?


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## Oak Savanna (Nov 15, 2010)

I just picked up a pair of these boots from my local stihl dealer. They are viking black tusk boots. Rubber waterproof bottoms and leather uppers. They have a protective kevlar tounge in the front, steel toes and steel plate in the sole. Got them a size bigger and put in winter liners. I thought it would be a good idea to get the caulked sole because they are going to be my winter boots and thought the spikes might be better grip on the snow and ice we deal with here in the winter. They make a hell of a racket when your walking on concrete or stone drive way. They dont mark it up, just noisy. Thinking maby the caulks arent so good if I had to walk on a wooden deck or something. But like I said they are my winter boots. Have a heel on them and the spurs fit nice over the boot. Decent to climb in. All in all I am happy with them. Just alittle noisy and gotta watch where you walk! Should be good in the snow and ice.


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## 50:1 (Apr 9, 2012)

Here's a simplier, cheaper fix. Kevlar socks.


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## Philbert (Apr 9, 2012)

50:1 said:


> Here's a simplier, cheaper fix. Kevlar socks.



Metatarsal guards are a standard item from safety supply houses - about $30. And someone was selling a chaps-like overboot a while back.

Philbert


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