# Sunrise Industries/ Beeline Stump Grinder Problem



## ridgerunner97 (Jan 20, 2012)

I have a Beeline Stump Grinder, 30hp Kohler engine walk behind unit. The electric clutch failed on it and the company is out of business. Does anybody know a part number or clutch that will work to replace it? So far all I know about the clutch which has no part numbers or anything on it, is that it is a 300 ft. lb torque and 4 groove style electric clutch. If anybody can help me out i'd really appreciate it I need to get this thing fixed and back in action!


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## ridgerunner97 (Jan 24, 2012)

Does anybody have one of these? I can't be the only person...


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## Oly's Stump (Jan 24, 2012)

Does it look like any of these?

electric clutches | Price comparison and reviews at best-deal.com


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## Oly's Stump (Jan 24, 2012)

Or maybe these!

LAWN MOWER WARNER ELECTRIC PTO CLUTCHES


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## Oly's Stump (Jan 24, 2012)

If not check into these...got to have it here.

ThomasNet® - Category Service Results - Clutches: Electromagnetic


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## ridgerunner97 (Feb 20, 2012)

Thanks. I called a few clutch manufacturer's and am running down leads as time permits. If anyone else has ever had one of these machine's or worked on one, seen one, post up any knowledge is appreciated


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## Bigstumps (Feb 21, 2012)

I would bet it is an Ogura - that is what everybody else used to use - I don't have an electric clutch anymore but I know Rayco and Vermeer used them.

Let us know what you find.

General Purpose Clutches - Ogura Industrial Corp


General Purpose Clutches - Ogura Industrial Corp


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## ShermanC (Feb 18, 2013)

*Electric Cluth or Hydrostatic drive problem*



ridgerunner97 said:


> I have a Beeline Stump Grinder, 30hp Kohler engine walk behind unit. The electric clutch failed on it and the company is out of business. Does anybody know a part number or clutch that will work to replace it? So far all I know about the clutch which has no part numbers or anything on it, is that it is a 300 ft. lb torque and 4 groove style electric clutch. If anybody can help me out i'd really appreciate it I need to get this thing fixed and back in action!


I also own a BeeLine machine, an SP-13 bought new Sept. '09. George Wasser, in Mifflin, PA closed the business in December 2011 after he broke his wrist, met up with his former girlfriend Jeanne and Tina in the office quit. What a story...I should have saved my money for a Bandit, Vermeer or Rayco. Oh well, there is an owner of a 25HP BeeLine named Dan at [email protected]. We met a year ago through the AS forum as he was searching for an axle and driveshaft. Perhaps Dan can help you by email. Meanwhile I am struggling with my electrical system trying to find a shorted wire or prove a failure of the internal oil sentry (I hope not the sentry). Hey, let's get the BeeLine owners to unite on AS, like Studebaker owners! What the heck, it's only money...smile and keep on keeping on. I have a grinding job of 150 stumps in process but Our weather in north central Arkansas is wet and windy so I'm doing shop work and errands. Drop me a line of call my cell 870-615-0329 Sherman Anderson.


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## Mowingman (Feb 18, 2013)

I am almost positive it is either an Ogura or a Warner. Warner clutches are much more commonly used than Ogura in these applications. I suggest you go to a VERY knowledgablerepairshop that works on commercial grade zero turn lawnmowers. someone in the shop there should be able to help you figure out what you have. for instance, Hustler mowers use either Warneror Ogura, depending on the mower model. so, a good Hustler mechanic should be able to tell the difference.
Good luck,
Jeff


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## ridgerunner97 (Feb 19, 2013)

Mowingman said:


> I am almost positive it is either an Ogura or a Warner. Warner clutches are much more commonly used than Ogura in these applications. I suggest you go to a VERY knowledgablerepairshop that works on commercial grade zero turn lawnmowers. someone in the shop there should be able to help you figure out what you have. for instance, Hustler mowers use either Warneror Ogura, depending on the mower model. so, a good Hustler mechanic should be able to tell the difference.
> Good luck,
> Jeff



No disrespect but I worked in the shop that rented the machine I was inquiring about and between the two other mechanics they have about 70 years of lawn/turf/small engine/mechanical experience. Some of the clutches you cannot tell the difference at all. We have since parted the machine out and said the hell with it since we have another Rayco walk behind.


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## ShermanC (Sep 24, 2013)

*Beeline stump grinder electric clutch problem*



ridgerunner97 said:


> I have a Beeline Stump Grinder, 30hp Kohler engine walk behind unit. The electric clutch failed on it and the company is out of business. Does anybody know a part number or clutch that will work to replace it? So far all I know about the clutch which has no part numbers or anything on it, is that it is a 300 ft. lb torque and 4 groove style electric clutch. If anybody can help me out i'd really appreciate it I need to get this thing fixed and back in action!


Hey ridgerunner97...I realize 19 months have passed since you posted for help on your electric clutch. Warner makes those clutches. But before you replace the suspected part check every ground connection. I have a Beeline SG-13 and now I am dealing with removal and replacement of the belt for the hydrostat drive. Beeline gave no product and part specifications for this machine so I am compelled to remove the belt and then find a replacement. Uggh!
If any other AS members see this and have the belt specification please PM me. I definitely will be grateful.


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## ShermanC (Jan 5, 2014)

I'm back three months since my last post Ssept. 24th. The warner Clutch number is 5218-155. Check your crimp-on female wire clips to make sure the connection is tight to the wire and tight no the male tabs in the clutch.

The latest issues I have had with the Beeline SP-13 are posted here.
1. In October the OEM transmission belt shredded so I installed a Gates Green BP-54 belt. But I failed to notice that the tensioner bracket mounted by a shouldered 3/8" MOUNTING BOLT (selected by Beeline) had worked loose. The next belt shredded last week, just two months later. I've just changed the tensioner pulley bracket mounting bolt to a grade 8 1-3/4" hex cap screw fastened with a grade 8 flat washer and lock nut. The bracket spacer that keeps the bracket in line with the engine crankshaft pulley is a 3/8"x3/4" Shaft Collar with Allen screw to secure it to the grade 8 cap screw.
2. The Operator Presence Bar (OPB) is a safety lock-out that pushes a spring loaded button (always open). Adjustment for adequate length is by a turnbuckle-type nut; pushed in far enough the switch is then closed and the circuit is complete allowing the machine to run. The OEM switch made of plastic broke in 2012 so I replaced it with a sturdier metal button from Crow-Burlingame (Bumper to Bumper auto Parts) and this type of switch required a change to the turnbuckle linkage using a reinforced clear hose as a guide or shield.
3. The power plant is a Kohler Command Pro 12.75 Hydro that starts quickly and is a superb engine. It has an internal Oil Sentry in the oil reservoir having one black wire emerging through a grommeted hole in the upper block, connecting by snap plug to a black/white wire to the Electronic Ignition box. I found that when grinding a stump on a steep slope the oil sentry will shut the system down if the oil level tilts and causes the switch to close. It would interpret that the oil level is too low. By disconnecting the wire at the snap plug the switch can be overridden until working back on flat ground. It should be remembered to reattach the wires after the sloped work is done.
After all I have done with this grinder plus the maintenance I have learned, I hope the grinder will serve our work better than ever before.


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## ShermanC (Jan 23, 2014)

treetopguy2028 said:


> I'm back three months since my last post Ssept. 24th. The warner Clutch number is 5218-155. Check your crimp-on female wire clips to make sure the connection is tight to the wire and tight no the male tabs in the clutch.
> 
> The latest issues I have had with the Beeline SP-13 are posted here.
> 1. In October the OEM transmission belt shredded so I installed a Gates Green BP-54 belt. But I failed to notice that the tensioner bracket mounted by a shouldered 3/8" MOUNTING BOLT (selected by Beeline) had worked loose. The next belt shredded last week, just two months later. I've just changed the tensioner pulley bracket mounting bolt to a grade 8 1-3/4" hex cap screw fastened with a grade 8 flat washer and lock nut. The bracket spacer that keeps the bracket in line with the engine crankshaft pulley is a 3/8"x3/4" Shaft Collar with Allen screw to secure it to the grade 8 cap screw.
> ...


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## ShermanC (Jan 23, 2014)

Hey Beeline owners out there...let's sing a song called "You keep me hangin' on" 'cause I am back again about three weeks since the last breakdown and my last AS post. Without a professionally written owner's manual (thanks to the crafty salesman George Wasser...the skunk), the diagnosis of parts and component symptoms and tracking the part sources has been a brain teaser and I am writing everything down in the Beeline book. The electrical circuitry, thanks to Kohler's 150-page Service Manual for "Command Pro CS Series 4-12 HP", is a closed loop best described for the 12.75 HP in Section 8 Electrical System & Components, Figure 8-16, determined by the five tab rectifier-Regulator, a 7/10 Amp model. My diagnosis of my machine's electrical system has three symptoms: Kill switch does not kill, electric switch for Warner clutch/grinder component does not work and the Ignition Key switch does not start or turn engine off. Yet, the engine can start on the first pull of starter rope. So I have found the the ignition key switch, six tabs or prongs (five copper tabs and one brass) is a Toro part. It will arrive Jan. 25 and I hope it solves the three problems. I cannot wait for this machine to run properly.


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## ShermanC (Jan 30, 2014)

treetopguy2028 said:


> Hey Beeline owners out there...let's sing a song called "You keep me hangin' on" 'cause I am back again about three weeks since the last breakdown and my last AS post. Without a professionally written owner's manual (thanks to the crafty salesman George Wasser...the skunk), the diagnosis of parts and component symptoms and tracking the part sources has been a brain teaser and I am writing everything down in the Beeline book. The electrical circuitry, thanks to Kohler's 150-page Service Manual for "Command Pro CS Series 4-12 HP", is a closed loop best described for the 12.75 HP in Section 8 Electrical System & Components, Figure 8-16, determined by the five tab rectifier-Regulator, a 7/10 Amp model. My diagnosis of my machine's electrical system has three symptoms: Kill switch does not kill, electric switch for Warner clutch/grinder component does not work and the Ignition Key switch does not start or turn engine off. Yet, the engine can start on the first pull of starter rope. So I have found the the ignition key switch, six tabs or prongs (five copper tabs and one brass) is a Toro part. It will arrive Jan. 25 and I hope it solves the three problems. I cannot wait for this machine to run properly.


My recent AS posts must sound like a doggone soap opera. The electrical challenges have felt like a soap. When the new Ignition Ket Switch arrived I first charted side by side reactions to a continuity test for all six terminals in each key position (3). The readings were the same which verified the old switch was still good. Today I got everything running correctly (again). The coil ground wire SPADE CLIPPER had loosened off the coil tab again. I crimped it tight and reinstalled and did a test run. Ready to work when the weather warms up a bit...doesn't look favorable yet. It was the same way last year. I hope I can let this story alone...enough said,


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