# good saw for milling less than 25" hardwood



## roundhead (Jun 11, 2013)

I have been kicking this idea around for awhile since I have alot of hickory on the ground I want to use up. I have too much firewood. I have a stihl 046 but I know milling can be real hard on a saw and so I was thinking about getting something bigger but not as expensive as the 066. I saw an 056 for less than $300 but I know they have issues when the ignition fails (hard to replace). I did read a thread about good milling saws that are less than the MS 660 but I cannot seem to find the thread. I know one mentioned the Echo CS 8000. Any suggestions on a saw that is bigger than an 046 that I could get for around $3-400 that I can get replacement parts for?
thanks


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## mad murdock (Jun 11, 2013)

Poulan, McCulloch, Homelite, Husky, Echo, Dolmar. A lot to choose from in the older models, and parts are still around for a lot of them. Even a Craftsman 5.2/Poulan 5200 would work well.


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## john taliaferro (Jun 11, 2013)

Think i would just run the 460 ,make shure its rich . I got a old beater 460 with a 1'' exhaust and a big bore kit from baileys runs almost as well as a 660 thats stock . So if it craps you can bb it for less than 400 ,and its lighter :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

129.00 it in the stihl 44/460 parts


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## Mad Professor (Jun 12, 2013)

For 25" hardwoods you want the biggest saw you can afford. A 056M is great if you can get parts.

Also chain/bar/oilers are another good investment. Besides oil a water drip to keep the bar cool.


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## roundhead (Jun 15, 2013)

john taliaferro said:


> Think i would just run the 460 ,make shure its rich . I got a old beater 460 with a 1'' exhaust and a big bore kit from baileys runs almost as well as a 660 thats stock . So if it craps you can bb it for less than 400 ,and its lighter :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> 129.00 it in the stihl 44/460 parts



good idea. I never thought of that. I like this better than buying an 075 or 066 and having to fix it up/rebuild it. I just hate the thought of frying a chainsaw but if I keep it rich and don't overdo it maybe it will work out. most of the wood is actually 20" max. I did a MM on the 046 so it has lots of power now but may need more if I get into bigger stuff. 
Thanks for the idea John


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## Trx250r180 (Jun 15, 2013)

i have a 460 with dual port muffler on my mill ,run my mix at 32 to 1 instead of 50 to 1 ,it has been doing fine ,check your plug after a hard cut make sure its got some color too it ,not white and lean and you should be fine


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## Skiroy56 (Jun 17, 2013)

*skiroy56*

trx250r180
What length bar are you running on your 460? I am looking to set mine up for milling and not sure bar length.
Thanks, Laurence


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## Trx250r180 (Jun 17, 2013)

Skiroy56 said:


> trx250r180
> What length bar are you running on your 460? I am looking to set mine up for milling and not sure bar length.
> Thanks, Laurence



28 inch ,24 inch wide cut is about all my log dog holders will hold on my portable setup ,i lose a couple inches up front with aux oiler ,cedar cuts real easy with a 460 ,fir works it a little harder but as long as i go easy it cuts fine with ripping chain


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## Skiroy56 (Jun 17, 2013)

*skiroy56*

Also which are you running .325 or 3/8 pitch? I assume with a 28" bar I will loose some length in the cut.
I haven't bought the mill yet so not sure mill size with a 28" bar. Any suggestions?
Looking at the Panther Mill.
Laurence


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## samdweezel05 (Jun 17, 2013)

I use a 440 with a 32". Put it 30" deep in hard wood and you won't be very happy. That set up is great for 24" and under. Bigger stuff was done in the past with the 075AV and will now be done with the 660.


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## Trx250r180 (Jun 17, 2013)

samdweezel05 said:


> I use a 440 with a 32". Put it 30" deep in hard wood and you won't be very happy. That set up is great for 24" and under. Bigger stuff was done in the past with the 075AV and will now be done with the 660.



ya just need a better 440 with a sticker on it :cool2:


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## samdweezel05 (Jun 17, 2013)

trx250r180 said:


> ya just need a better 440 with a sticker on it :cool2:



Their is no replacement for displacement.


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## Trx250r180 (Jun 18, 2013)

Skiroy56 said:


> Also which are you running .325 or 3/8 pitch? I assume with a 28" bar I will loose some length in the cut.
> I haven't bought the mill yet so not sure mill size with a 28" bar. Any suggestions?
> Looking at the Panther Mill.
> Laurence



i run 3/8 .050 on the 28 inch bar ,my saw shop stocks ripping chain in that pitch so it's readily available if need some ,i have a 36 inch bar also and a 20 i can mill with also ,just depends how big your log is ,the longer the bar the more bounce it will produce on the end with the type of mill i have ,on an alaska type ,both ends are mounted solid so less flex ,the tip of my bar is free standing ,the 28 is a good compromise for what i cut ,mine is a norwood brand ,they recomend the 20 inch bar ,i feel the 28 works better for all around for what i cut up ,my mill works with a ladder for the tracks ,its a good "home owner" mill ,i am limited to a 13 foot log mac with a 16 foot ladder for track


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## Trx250r180 (Jun 18, 2013)

samdweezel05 said:


> Their is no replacement for displacement.



unless you have displacement with a sticker :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Hedgerow (Jun 21, 2013)

trx250r180 said:


> unless you have displacement with a sticker :hmm3grin2orange:



I use a ported 9010 w/36" bar and semi-chisel full comp chain. Alaskan mill... Just milled 27" slabs off a Hickory log.
I'll bet ripping chain would have helped in that endeavor...


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## Trx250r180 (Jun 21, 2013)

Hedgerow said:


> I use a ported 9010 w/36" bar and semi-chisel full comp chain. Alaskan mill... Just milled 27" slabs off a Hickory log.
> I'll bet ripping chain would have helped in that endeavor...



the ripping chain is slower ,but gives a finish similar to a bandsaw


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## Hedgerow (Jun 21, 2013)

trx250r180 said:


> the ripping chain is slower ,but gives a finish similar to a bandsaw



Have you milled with square filed chain? Does it move any faster? Running the semi chisel through there is like a ditch witch... But the finish ain't too bad..
I'm new to this milling thing...


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## Skiroy56 (Jun 21, 2013)

*skiroy56*

I too am new to milling with a chainsaw. I have always been under the impression that you need a ripping chain for that.
I have used a regular crosscut chain in the past to split chunks of wood so was going to buy a ripping chain as that is what all of the information I have read leads me to. I have a book on chainsaw milling, can't recall the title or author, from the 60's by the looks of the haircut and all of his advice is use a ripping chain. Don't remember if he was using a chisel chain or flat top. I will have to pull it back out and review. Also in woodworking with hand saws a rip saw is best for butting with the grain so I thought it best to follow that advice. Just some rambling thoughts.


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## Trx250r180 (Jun 21, 2013)

Hedgerow said:


> Have you milled with square filed chain? Does it move any faster? Running the semi chisel through there is like a ditch witch... But the finish ain't too bad..
> I'm new to this milling thing...



yes its faster ,but leaves deeper slices in the finish due to the square corner on the chain ,the bottom of the board has a lot of fiber tear ,looks like chips hanging which need to be sanded off ,that was fir wood i was milling ,it doesn't hurt to experiment with some smaller stuff for practice ,i haven't tried changing the angel on square to 10 degree top like ripping has ,my grinder for square wont cut 10 ,different wood may react different ,takes a lot of trial and error to find what works


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## Hedgerow (Jun 21, 2013)

trx250r180 said:


> yes its faster ,but leaves deeper slices in the finish due to the square corner on the chain ,the bottom of the board has a lot of fiber tear ,looks like chips hanging which need to be sanded off ,that was fir wood i was milling ,it doesn't hurt to experiment with some smaller stuff for practice ,i haven't tried changing the angel on square to 10 degree top like ripping has ,my grinder for square wont cut 10 ,different wood may react different ,takes a lot of trial and error to find what works



I filed the semi chisel to about 15 degrees... Best I could do with what I had... I'll get all the good outta that sucker before I buy another.
Already trashed a tip on the bar and had to replace it..


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## Trx250r180 (Jun 21, 2013)

Hedgerow said:


> I filed the semi chisel to about 15 degrees... Best I could do with what I had... I'll get all the good outta that sucker before I buy another.
> Already trashed a tip on the bar and had to replace it..



rig up a bottle with a shut off valve to oil the tip ,here is mine,i run winter grade bar oil in it ,it flows better than reg bar oil View attachment 301266
View attachment 301267


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## Hedgerow (Jun 21, 2013)

The tip was on its way out already, but milling finished it off...
I would like to set up an oiler though..


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## samdweezel05 (Jun 21, 2013)

Hedgerow said:


> I use a ported 9010 w/36" bar and semi-chisel full comp chain. Alaskan mill... Just milled 27" slabs off a Hickory log.
> I'll bet ripping chain would have helped in that endeavor...



My milling times in 32" elm did not change with a skip chain vs a standard full chisel.


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## Skiroy56 (Jul 1, 2013)

*skiroy56*

What flavor bar are y'all using?
I see GB, Stihl, Forrester....
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Laurence


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## flashhole (Jul 2, 2013)

I'm new to chainsaw milling myself. I use a Husqvarna 394 (94cc). My mill is the 32" Granberg and I outfitted my saw with a 36" Stihl ES bar and ripping chain. I'm just getting into the bigger wood that will put all of my 30" mill to the test but one thing I intended to try is shorter bars with smaller diameter wood. Don't know if it will make a cleaner cut or not. My milled trees thus far have all been maple. The cuts are pretty clean but I get some torn fibers like one of the other posters mentioned.


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## Trx250r180 (Jul 2, 2013)

flashhole said:


> I'm new to chainsaw milling myself. I use a Husqvarna 394 (94cc). My mill is the 32" Granberg and I outfitted my saw with a 36" Stihl ES bar and ripping chain. I'm just getting into the bigger wood that will put all of my 30" mill to the test but one thing I intended to try is shorter bars with smaller diameter wood. Don't know if it will make a cleaner cut or not. My milled trees thus far have all been maple. The cuts are pretty clean but I get some torn fibers like one of the other posters mentioned.



what kind of chain are you using ? and are you putting wedges between the board and log as you go ? so the board doesn't drag on the upper side of bar chain


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## flashhole (Jul 2, 2013)

Yes, generous and dutiful use of wedges during slabbing. I purchased my chain at the local saw shop (Power & Paddle on route 96), didn't ask about the manufacturer but it sure has held a good edge on the cutters.


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## Trx250r180 (Jul 2, 2013)

flashhole said:


> Yes, generous and dutiful use of wedges during slabbing. I purchased my chain at the local saw shop (Power & Paddle on route 96), didn't ask about the manufacturer but it sure has held a good edge on the cutters.



is it a ripping chain ? or reg chain ? ripping has a little narrower kerf ,and teeth ground 10 degrees instead of 30


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## flashhole (Jul 2, 2013)

Yes, a ripping chain. Just as you described. They keep a roll of it at the local shop and make them up custom.


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## ShaneLogs (Jul 2, 2013)

I would get an older Homelite or a big american muscle saw McCulloch to mill with. There all awesome saws!


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