# Would a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup truck be better for me??



## NYH1

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a new heavy duty pickup truck. It's going to be my daily driver but more so my work truck. I'm going to go with a new '13 or '14 Ext./Crew Cab Short Box, gas engine, 4x4, auto trans., 4.10 gear limited slip/locker rear diff., (tow & plow pkg.) 

I'm not sure if I should go with a 3/4 or 1 ton? Price wise there about the same. With gas engines their towing capacities are about the same. Their payload capacities are higher in the 1 tons. I will be hauling stuff in the box, but I don't think I'd over load a 3/4 ton.....I don't think. 

I'm going to use the truck for plowing and towing trailers. My regular trailers will weigh between 4-7,000 lbs. so they're not really a lot. Although I'll most likely be towing daily in the warmer months for mowing lawns and lots, so I guess the stress of day to day towing can add up over time. I also do a little bit of off roading during hunting season, nothing to serious though. 

I'm probably going to go with a Fisher or Western 8 ft. or 8 1/2 ft. plow 650 to 750 lbs. I'll be doing a lot of residential plowing so I can't go to big. The last two winters here in Central New York have been real mild. However, some years, more often then not, we have some pretty bad winters with some serious plowing. I want to make sure I get a truck that can handle everything I'm going to use it for. 

Would it be worth getting a 1 ton just to have a heavier duty truck? What would the "pro's and con's" be by going with one over the other? I'm not buying this new truck with gas mileage as a main concern. However, how much different can I expect the mileage to be while just driving normally while NOT plowing, towing or off roading from my current 2007 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4, Hemi, auto, 3.92, anti spin rear? I get about 10 mpg city and about 15/16 highway? I'd like to think they'd be close.....is my thinking close or no? 

Thanks, NYH1.


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## Josh A

*2013 Chevy 3/4 Ton*

Don't know 3/4 Ton vs 1 Ton but I can quote Chevy vs Ford. My father in law just got a 2013 Chevy 3/4 Ton Crew Cab with the 6.0 Liter. He is getting 10 in the city and 14 on the highway. I've got a 6.2 Liter in my F150 Raptor and prior to adding the blower I was getting 11 in the city and 15 on the highway (with the blower I picked up another 1.5 mpg). Put my engine in a Ford 3/4 ton without the blower and I bet they are about equal.

My biggest issue with the Chevy...the rear end. He got in a little mud the other day and the limited slip never did a thing. He was stuck before he even had time to think 4X4. After walking 2 miles through the woods at night to get my truck to pull him out I decided I'll never have another truck without a user selectable fully locking rear end. 

Josh


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## Jimmy in NC

Towing daily I'd go 1 ton. Bigger brakes, springs etc will be a benefit in the long run. Plowing seems a little secondary and I'd make the exception on that end as towing all summer will be the bread and butter. No one ever says I bought too much...only not enough truck.


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## Homelite410

Tonner Then you know you'll never have to beef it up.


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## Jab73180

Josh A said:


> My biggest issue with the Chevy...the rear end. He got in a little mud the other day and the limited slip never did a thing. He was stuck before he even had time to think 4X4. After walking 2 miles through the woods at night to get my truck to pull him out I decided I'll never have another truck without a user selectable fully locking rear end.
> 
> Josh



The rear end in the Chevy only locks up until you hit 25 or 35 mph. If you gun it to get out of a mud hole, it doesnt take to get the wheels spinning over 35.

-Jason


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## mdavlee

Most trucks now are the same in 3/4 and 1 ton for the axles and brakes. I did notice the insurance on a ton is a few dollars cheaper a month than a 3/4 ton.


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## JakeG

I vote for a single rear wheel 1 ton with 19.5" wheels and 33" tires.


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## Wazzu

I've had a 1 ton Dodge Diesel with the short wheel base since 2003. It handles a load well but if I can ever afford another pickup I will be sure to get a dually. It just leans too much with a full load on the steep windy roads of the West. I think most 3/4 ton and 1 tons are mostly the same. I think Dodges have one extra spring and a 11.5 rear end instead of a 10.5 inch.


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## L Mason

If your towing go for a 1 ton dually.


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## Big_Al

Old thread but for 4 to 7k trailers there is no need for a dually. A 1 ton or 3/4 single rear will easily handle that. If your pulling 8 or 10 k or more then you might want a dually. Otherwise there a pain. Have to buy 6 tires, real wide, not good in snow.


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## cus_deluxe

i own a 1984 single wheel one-ton GMC, w a small block/th400/np205 and its as close to bullet proof as it gets. it does require a little tinkering periodically, but i guess it depends on what your after. agree with single wheel, and agree that differences these days between tons and 3/4s are almost indistinguishable. As for wheel size, not sure why big wheels are so popular (ever looked at the cost of 19.5" load E tires??!!) enough to give a guy nightmares.......


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## snuffbandit

heres my 2 bits... dodge make by far the strongest frame on the market today, almost no flex in the extreme test they put it trough and ford was twisted to high hell. also dodge apparently has the nicest and most comfortable interior of the main 3 truck manufactures


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## blades

Too bad Dodge still hasn't addressed front ends and tranny issues. These have always been the weak points for them. Chevy beefed up their frames around 2012-13, Plowing wise Ford front end still wins. Each have their issues- not here to revisit brand name war. I plow- have for many years my 99 f350 1t v10 is still pounding along ( went with that vs Diesel due to Epa screwing with fuel) I don't tow much but that is where the Diesel has advantage on the long hauls. Have an 06 f250 except for the 5.4l pretty much can due anything the 99 can, just has to work harder in some situations due to the hp difference. If your plowing a dually is not the right choice. Worst thing about all of these is is how thin the sheet metal is in the box particularly the box head end. If you are going to be using the box for a lot of hauling get a cab and chassis and an aftermarket box , bed or what ever- money ahead. Just picked up a 8ft alum. flat bed for the 99 box got destroyed by tire tread separation from carcass, that was fun. fact 3 out 5 of these tires all developed belt problems. I won't name brands but check for the load rating on the tires. You want at least a 121 or better this not the side wall letter rating which should be E or or more. Not a fan of "Ghetto Cruiser" wheels and tires. If your plowing, tall thinner tires due more for you than fat flotation types. I am old school its supposed to be a truck. The new stuff sure ain't what it use to be body integrity wise. Oh almost for got if plowing get the plow package, I know its a bit of a rip off dollar wise but on a new unit ya gots to deal with warranty issues which will be void without.


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## snuffbandit

I agree dodge does have issues with their front end and them damn asin trannys. and sheet metal aint nothing like it used to be. i remember about 8 years ago when i was 9 my great uncle lester and i were at his house out in MT up in the hills by helena and he dropped a oak about 26" around and the wind pushed it back and it pivoted ontho the box of his 78 powerwagon... fortunatly it only dented in the wall of the about 3-4 inches


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## blades

Hell fire that would have been a total wipe out on anything from the last 10 years


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## snuffbandit

i know right! would have just crused both sides down to the frame


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## olyman

snuffbandit said:


> I agree dodge does have issues with their front end and them damn asin trannys.


 yup!! box got rid of his 91 chevy junk tonner,,that ate gas like a pig,,and bought a 2007 dodge tonner dsl..he said what a bargain..........yeah.....from day one I started driving it, [ and I used to overhaul trans], I could feel it breaking loose in first......worse if I was pulling a heavier implement.....pulling a light hay rake, no problem. I talked to the dodge mech, he said lets try and do a trans reprogram first. so hes gonna try. but me thinks,,boss will be putting to get a new trans in. and il bet money to a buck,,thats why the city that did have it sold it......its a extend tonner,,with a big dump bed on it...cant guess what caused it,right??????????


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## mdavlee

I've not had any problems with the transmission in my 11 3500 dodge. I've left the quarry with a dump trailer of rock at 25.5k. These newer 6 speeds seem to be a lot tougher than the older 4 speeds.


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## ChoppyChoppy

And long bed. A short bed is useless as a work truck.... I know, I have one.



JakeG said:


> I vote for a single rear wheel 1 ton with 19.5" wheels and 33" tires.


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## olyman

Stephen C. said:


> I have a old 2003 Duramax one ton dually. It does not go out of the driveway if it isn't hauling something heavy. It has been a great truck. My last load of hay was 26,000 pounds GCVW on the 5th wheel trailer> It sucked diesel being 4k overloaded but it got it there with no complaints. I like a standard transmission but the Allison is the only logical choice in automatics. Go Allison or go home with an auto trans. The others are just a expensive joke.


 chevys the only brand of truck,, aint it???


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## mdavlee

Stephen C. said:


> that is good news to hear. I don't know anyone with one of the 6 speeds. 25.5k will put the hurt to weak components in a hurry.
> That kind of weighty hurts my fuel consumption the most in the hills around northern Michigan. Old mister MAX gets thirsty....maybe I need a chip....


Yeah I've towed around 24-25k around 100 miles one way 3 times. 2 long mountain pulls of 3.5 and 3 miles at 9 and 10% grades plus all the shorter up and down we have. I love the exhaust brake. The mileage was around 11 doing that.


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## Deleted member 83629

got a old 75 chevy c30 350 4spd 4.88 the most it pulled 20k a little sluggish because of the gearing and tall tires ( 9.00-16 )
it gets 9.3 mpg loaded or unloaded.


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## Locust Cutter

Like mike said earlier, most 3/4 and 1-ton (SRW) trucks are the same outside of he badging. The difference is (possibly) GM used to put a weaker rear-end on their 3/4 tons (Gas or Diesel) than their 1-tons. IDK if this is still true or not. I've never plwed, but know those who have and have played with more than a few different makes of DRW and SRW 1/tons. For snow and those weights, I'd do a Ford or or Chevy with an auto (the only choice available att) or a Dodge with a stick. Their autos are good but I like a stick in a truck. Your mileage may vary. The Fords (and maybe the other two) may have an additional spring on the rear of the SRW 1-ton but that would be about the only difference.

To the person not understanding the big tire and rim craze: The tires are mostly an aesthetic thing, with some additional benefits (minor) of ground clearance for the pumpkins. The reason 19.5's are so popular (outside of wanna-be mini semis) are that running a larger rim on an equal size tire (say 265-75/19.5 and 265-75/17 is that the 19.5" rimmed tire will have a shorter sidewall. This allows less flex (squirm) under load and holds shape better resulting in better tire life and traction. It also results in a more expensive tire (lasting longer costs more per tire) and a rougher ride, but it's a work truck not an Escalade. The trade-offs are worth it for some.


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## NYH1

I'm buying a new 2015 Ram 2500 Tradesman. I should have it in a few weeks. It's a Reg. Cab. 4x4, 6.4L Hemi, auto, 4.10 anti-spin rear. The 3/4 tons also come with the 11.5" rearend. This one has the 5500 lbs. front diff. I want the basic work truck model w/manual 4x4 shift on the floor. Here are some of the options/groups- snow chief, tow pkg & 5th wheel/gooseneck, pop. equip, power & remote, chrome app. groups, brake controller.

I'm keeping my current 2007 Ram 1500 QC SB 4x4, 5.7L Hemi, auto, 3.92 anti-spin rear, that I bought new, it only has 57K miles on it. I put a Fisher SD 7.5' Plow on it two seasons ago, it's paid for and we're paying cash for the new truck and plow. Only thing now is to decide on which Fisher Plow to get.

Thanks, NYH1.


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## blades

Get a boss plow if ya got a decent dealer- simpler electrics. That multitasking electronics that Western / Fisher/Blizzard ( all made right down the street from me) are a pita to trace problems. Additionally The robotic welding is cranked up too fast and not enough heat in the welds - been an ongoing problem for a while now. I have had all three although my Blizzard was from before Westerns parent company acquired Blizzard for the patents on the expanding plow. That was one heavy plow but very productive , only reason not still running it is I wore it out and of course Western changed all the parts so no support any more. Got Boss V and a straight been good so far. No broken welds and no electric problems over the past 4 seasons. I did develop a seal leak in the lift ram on the straight but that is not Boss's fault as that is a rather generic part, not mfg by them. ( goes for all the plow mfgs hydro cylinders are are a purchased part) Western, fisher, Blizzard- hydro manifold and pump made in house - Boss is a commercial purchase (forget who right now so options if the dealer doesn't have) same thing on SnoWay ( and thats what Blizzard used to be as well).


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## NYH1

Picked up the new truck this week.....AWESOME!

NYH1.


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## NYH1

This truck is AWESOME!

NYH1.


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