# How Too Start Your Chainsaw



## Gypo Logger (Dec 9, 2001)

Hi There, I noticed that in this forum there is a lot of discussion about how best to start your saw. The answer is to start it the way that is best for you that feels the safest, and never mind how safe it looks when someone else does it.
As for me I use the drop start with no valve, no matter the size of the saw- V8 hotsaws excluded. Now dont get me wrong, it's not a Macho thing, cause I,m just a sawed off 5'7" woodtick. This is the way I was taught in the woods on Van. Is. B.C. and have used it for 20 continual years in the woods, with no mishaps.
If I was righthanded, I couldnt do this. A lefthanded operator, generaly speaking, has more saw stamina than his righthanded friends, because he/she is holding the heaviest part of the saw with the strongest side of the body, although I have seen some lefties, and righties, get it all turned around and drop start with the right hand on the fore handle and the saw turned another 180 degrees with the blade ( bar) close to the thigh ( bad news).
I was showing off my 088W to an arborist friend of mine yesterday and told him to crank it up, so he just did the yo-yo start with his right hand on the rear handle and lunged the saw ahead with his left. his 3 ft. arms came in handy for this, but it looked too wild for me.
I find drop starting is an uncool thing to do when using a long bar, but then again, I am built closer to the ground.
In my mind, drop starting is perfectly safe and effective, since all the muscular system is used when it is done right, ie., back, shoulders, arms, legs stomach and upper body.
How many muscles do you think are used when doing the silly nutcracker start or the stirup start, however the stirup start works well when in thick brush or while using long bars.
This is just my opinion and not to be construed as the only way or safest way to effectively start your powersaw ( chainsaw).
The Chainsaw Isometricologist
Dr. Stihlhurling


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## eyolf (Jun 20, 2002)

I'm feelin' sorry for John...had to wait a long time to get an answer, didn't he!

Anyway, I usually start my saws by pullin' the rope. I don't even know what the nutcracker start is,(and it sounds painful) nor the yo-yo.


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## John in MA (Jun 21, 2002)

What's the yo-yo?

Nutcracker is holding rear handle of saw between your knees. It actually works well on some saws, but I've learned why they call it that if you start a big one.

I just do the ground (stirrup) start. I've never been comfortable with drop starting. I'm tall and have long arms, but on the skinny side.


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## mryb (Jun 21, 2002)

John,
I was practicing pull starting my little toy Stihl chainsaw when the thing slipped outta my hand & flew up & hit the ceiling fan while it was running. What a mess.
Good thing I wasn't trying to start Roberts "Predator"....Rick

Creep on loggin'


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## Kevin (Jun 21, 2002)

A reminder ...
Chainsaw accidents

1. Kickback and contact with a moving saw chain. Contact with the saw chain resulted in 85% of all reported injuries. The most serious injuries resulted from kickback. Kickback results when the moving chain on the top corner of the tip of the bar contacts an object. The chain stalls and inertia is transferred back to the power unit. The whole saw then rotates back on the operator. Modern saws equipped with an inertial chain brake will stop the moving chain before it contacts the operator. A chain brake is a safety feature all operators should be provided.

2. Loss of balance and follow through are next on the list. Working in rough terrain, under extreme environmental conditions requires additional safety measures. Make sure clothes fit properly and do not have any straps, buckles, or tears which could catch on branches or equipment. Proper safety shoes, high top boots with cut resistant material, equipped with lug sole or caulks, should be used by woods workers.

3. Falling material is last on the list of accident causing agents. It is, however, the most lethal. Most deaths occur when a falling tree or limb strikes operators. Nationwide, the fatality rate is 80.6 per 100,000 workers as a result of falling objects in the forest products industry. Accident prevention begins before the tree is felled, by carefully inspecting the tree for hazards and noting dead limbs or other hazards in surrounding trees.


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## HUSKYMAN (Jun 21, 2002)

I am not too tall either. Drop start ala Gypo method on 20" bar or smaller. Anything bigger then that (or my Homelite ZIP) must be started on the ground.


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## Greg (Jun 21, 2002)

I drop start my climbing saw usually, but on any of my other saws I put the rear handle behind my right knee, with my knee slightly bent. I hold the saw by the front handle with it tilted so the cord is looking straight up at me. This is a good way to start the saw because it puts the saw low enough to give you a full pull, and you'd be suprised how well the saw holds in behind your knee. This does not sound the same as the nut cracker, and I've never had the saw jump up and hit me thre. I learned this a an Arbormasters seminar.
Greg


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## treeclimber165 (Jun 21, 2002)

I use 3 different starting methods for different size saws. 
Climbing saw- Right hand on rear handle and throttle, pull with left hand
Small to medium size saw (026)- Left hand on front handle, pull with right hand. Throttle lock set to fast idle.
Large saws (bigger than an 026)- Set saw on ground, set throttle, stick right toe in rear handle, hold top handle with left hand, pull with right hand.


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## logcutter429 (Jun 21, 2002)

*starting saw*

I'm confussed on your drop saw method. i know my brother-in law was left handed and he hung on to the handle bar for his drop saw, but right handed as me i hold on to the handle as i have done for 20 years +


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## chainsawworld (Jun 21, 2002)

i really hate to sound like an instructor. when i give a class i moslty use the 372xp. the proper way to start a saw similar to it iswith your left hand on the loop handle)
make sure the chain brake is set (on)
press the decompression valve
set the choke
turn the ignition on
place the rear handle of the saw between your knees,firmly grasp the t-handle with your right hand, pull firmly on the starter cord untill the saw "pops". 
repeat the process only this time push the choke in. when the saw starts, follow the starter cord back into the housing without letting go of the t-handle.

when starting on the groundwith your left hand on the loop handle, saw on the ground)
make sure the chain brake is set(on)
press the decompression valve
set the choke
turn the ignition on
place your right knee on top of the saw on top of the air filter box,firmly grasp the t-handle with your right hand,pull firmly on the starter cord untill the saw "pops".
repeat the process only this time push the choke in. when the saw starts,follow the starter cord into the housing without letting go of the t-handle.
two things to remember here. the decompression valve is for the 
benefit of the saw(plastic starter parts) and when the saw does start to run, you must "crack" the throttle to bring the saw down from high RPMs to save the clutch.
stihl saws get similar instruction only the useing the master controll lever.
drop starts,cowboys,yo-yos or what ever else you see or hear are not safe. THINK SAFETY!!
this is only a brief narrative and not hands on instruction. marty


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## chainsawworld (Jun 21, 2002)

i have no clue were those frowns came from!!!!


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## sedanman (Jun 21, 2002)

I was a drop starter until Marty showed me the between your legs method. I'm a 6 foot 330 pound gorilla and don't need the help of gravity to get any of my saws running, I just didn't know any better until I met Marty.


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## Methoss084 (Jun 21, 2002)

I've seen the aftermath of the nutcracker starting method, makes everybody cross their legs in sympathy pain. Sorta like when your watching a baseball game and the pitcher catches the ball with his crotch  But, anyway, I perfer to start my saws the drop method. Except for the old LUNKER saws, those get the stirrup method.
Josh


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## tony marks (Jun 22, 2002)

man that work against any youngun
hopes wouldnt it.


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## Sethro (Jun 22, 2002)

HI I like the drop start but I have sunk the dogs of my 044 into my left leg trying to drop start it when I was walkin up to a tree.I run a 42"cannon on one of my 084's but I have to stand on a stump to drop start that power plant. Seth


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## eyolf (Jun 23, 2002)

I have used the drop start method on most saws, up to and including my old homelite 17's and 5-20's. In fact, I have only one saw at present that the drop staart method doesn't work on...my new 395 HUsky, w/ 24" bar, but I think I could get by with it with an 18 or 20.

One real disadvantage to chainsaw world's method is that you'll have a lot of trouble in cold weather. You want to keep the trigger down for 20 seconds or so when it's cold, and you really do not want that chain brake locked. 

Granted, I live in balmy north central MN, and the coldest morning I've ever had the poor sense to try to work in was about minus 40. What do the "real" men up in Canada do when it gets really cold? I'm talking about loggers like in the song:

"I see you are a logger by the way you stir you coffee with your thumb" 

The heroine of the saga is bemoaning the loss of her beloved when he sets out for a day in the woods, forgetting his mackinaw, at 100 below.


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## rahtreelimbs (Jun 24, 2002)

*how to start your chainsaw*

Husky 288, I thought you would catch your skateboard in gear to start your 288!!! Rich.


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## Lawrence Martin (Jun 24, 2002)

Hi guys 

With all my saws(335xp to 371xp) i drop start it with my left hand on on the trigger handle.

With my 395xp (34" and 37 "bar) i drop start it with my left hand on the black wrap handle . 

Iam what you say vertically challenged at only 5'-6" and have know problem at all , but what works for one guy might not work for the next.

Do what feels safe for you, and what you have you have been doing all along , if it aint broke dont fix it.

Tried that nut cracker ooooooch . 

Play safe

Lawrence


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## chainsawworld (Jun 24, 2002)

funny how most of the replies are from husky owners that drop start. husky gives you a free vhs tape when you buy it and it covers starting the saws. who tunes your carbs? a correctly tuned saw will start with little work. why yank your guts out and abuse the saw? oh, that's right, i already covered that," get educated". marty


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## WRW (Jun 24, 2002)

I push start mine. Of course, you have to leave the brake off and I understand that that's dangerous, but it's so quick & easy.


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## firedoctor (Jun 26, 2002)

Speaking of tuning,

My 394XPW has been starting pretty reliably needing about 3 pulls with the choke out, then 2 pulls with the choke in. The problem has been that the chain spins with the saw at high idle. The saw also keeps running for a second or so after the switch gets turned off.

Is any or all of this normal, or should I make adjustments. What is the right way to tune the carb and the idle.

Sorry if I should have started a new thread....

-Craig


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## Oregon_Rob (Aug 7, 2002)

Yesterday, I was searching for something else and came across the, “How to start a saw” thread. Read all the posts and went to clearing brush, you know start, cut, shut down and drag to the burn pile, repeat, (lots of starts). My normal method of starting my saw, 372, was to just drop start it, quick and as I thought efficient. Started playing around with some other methods described and trying the compression release. I do have to say, that Chainsawworld is correct, using the compression release will save ware and tare on the saw. My new method is to put the chain break on, engage the compression release, left hand on the top handle and the rear handle resting on my left, upper leg, bar tip resting on a log away from me and use my right hand to pull the rope.
Is it important that the chain break be released real quick?


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## Tzed250 (Aug 7, 2002)

*Dropstart?*

What in the world is the advantage to drop starting a saw?


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## John in MA (Aug 7, 2002)

It's faster than ground starting and it looks cooler. Personally, I've never found a real reason for doing it with saws larger than little clmbing types.


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## Oregon_Rob (Aug 7, 2002)

I found it was the easiest way to start my old Jonsered saw. When I bought that saw, I didn’t know anything about saws, and just kind of figured out how to pull the piston up to TDC and the drop to give me that mechanical advantage. In reality, it is very similar to kick starting a high compression dirt bike, you learn to use gravity. Except a bit more on the dangerous side of things than a bike. That old Jonsered didn’t even have a chain break.


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## Bruce Selfridge (Aug 7, 2002)

I fing drop starting is easyer on the old back.


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## tony marks (Aug 7, 2002)

amen to what chainsaw world said.
good mix and adjusted rite . just a couple o tugs and shes ready. anything i dont like its a 2 cycle engine that wont crank easy.i dont need to break a sweat before i even get started.
if one does that way much ,and i cant adjust it out. she dont stay in my arsenal


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## TheTreeSpyder (Aug 7, 2002)

i follow the Stihl tapes with Eric Sorenson for all but small saws. Only drop start 'baby' climbing saws that u really couldn't hold in between legs well. Sometimes i drop start an 044/440 in the tree; but only when my legs are behind a log, or i'm laying on my belly with ankles crossed on top of log etc.

Med. and large saws i go for between the legs, handle resting on above my left knee (not on any bone), brake on, decompress (if there is one), choke or warm start throttle trigger position. i never get a nut cracker, because i tilt the saw (from about 8:00 to 2:00), so that any kick or anything, goes into the meaty underside of my right thigh, pulling with R. hand at about the same angle. The recoil lines up real ncie for maximum pull at that angle.

On a Stihl we say we 'blip' (their term in manuals) the trigger to knock the throttle done from full open. If it is in cold start (choke) position and it isn't bear cold out, after it pops once, we assume the cylinder is warm, and take it off choke, but still on full open throttle-warm start position. Further choking tends to flood the beast; except on colder morns.

If that doesn't work, same procedure on ground, foot through handle, knee on top, for fuller pulling stroke. Might have someone else pull as i hold it for more oomph for bigger/ problem saws. Though i don't make 'em pull it when using previous method 'cause they tend to look funny!


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## wak110 (Aug 7, 2002)

Hi guys, I"m fairly new to this site but in the short time I've been browsing I picked up a wealth of information (not to mention the entertainment) from your collective knowlege.
Is there any website that shows the different saw starting "safe" methods, preferably with pics or illustrations. I've been climbing part-time for about thirty years doing trimming and removals for friends, family or to help out a pro friend on a "side job". Everything I've learned has either been passed down or I learned it the hard way so I wouldn't mind picking up some tips to make my life easier and safer.
Thanks, Bill


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## stihltech (Aug 7, 2002)

*drop start*

I drop start everything up to an 066 and up to a 20 inch bar. After that, on the ground, foot through rear handle, hold down on top handle, and pull quickly. Compression releases do work quite nice on a larger saw.


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## Kevin (Aug 7, 2002)




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## oakman (Aug 7, 2002)

i never shut my saws off...........................................................


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## chainsawworld (Aug 7, 2002)

Soren Eriksson worked for stihl years ago. he moved over to husky and has since retired. mr. personality, tim ard has taken over for husky. funny, Soren worked hard all his life to be where he is at and is a real nice guy. tim ard had everything handed to him and he has no time to the working guy. Marty


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## chainsawworld (Aug 7, 2002)

this thread is growing fast. 
do not be surprised if everyone has to go though some sort of training class. insurance companies just may make it mandatory because so many people are getting hurt not knowing what they are doing and costing them lots of money(this is real close to happening). i hate to see my rates go up because some idiot has no clue or has been "lucky so far".
things are getting better with the way insurance companies classify accidents now such as,accident with a chainsaw,accident in the woods,logging accident, etc. all chainsaw accidents were put in one big barrel and everyone paid the price.
instructors today can tell what went wrong and why. i have looked into some real nasties that could have been avoided. 
marty


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## oakman (Aug 7, 2002)

some people will hurt themselves with a spaghetti noodle.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Aug 8, 2002)

Well, kinda hard to put saw on the ground, or between knees (not drop start) on 020 in tree........

And kinda hard to imagine a saw trapped with body weight on top of it, foot in handle, chain brake on, another man pulling back to the rear; and someone getting hurt. In fact with one man pulling recoil in that position, they would have less weight, mind concentration on anchoring saw and not be able to pull directly away from buisness end of saw.

Well, might get hurt from letting recoil snap back in my face while i'm holding saw down; but seing as i'm the one in control of the 088 at the time............. don't think he'll do that; at least not twice!


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## WRW (Aug 8, 2002)

Marty,
Any statistics to show that drop starting causes any substantial number of chainsaw accidents? I did a short search and could not find injuries by cause, other than kickback, but by location. Leg and foot injuries were mostly attributed to trimming miscalculations.


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## chainsawworld (Aug 8, 2002)

i will check with some other instructors and sponsers to find some numbers. some of the things we were told is people would start the saw by holding the saw and throttle with their right hand and pull the starter handle with their left. when what little controll was lost in the left hand, the saw would come down and hit their legs and feet. another was holding the saw by the loop with the left hand and pulling the starter handle with the right. when the saw would start, controll again was lost and cuts to the legs or, the running saw would make contact with other objects and cuts could be any place.
not to get off the topic but, parts of the instruction i give deal with the use of the chain brake. i had one guy trip and fall in the snow. he panicked and gave the saw full throttle as he fell. his face landed on the chain and injury was minor because the brake was set as he moved. starting,moving and working the brake is set. if you are not sure of your next move, set the brake. marty


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## CJ-7 (Aug 8, 2002)

I am sure you all have noticed the same thing: If you just hold to top handle and pull the rope when the piston is on the compression stroke, you pull the bar towards your face. I notice my 019 is much more prone to this than my little Poulin Pro of the same displacement. Needless to say you don't do that method more than once. But if you drop start it, the reaction of the saw is not to tip the bar up, even on the compression stroke. Any of you physics minded guys know why? Just curious.

I generally use the handle between the knees method, but then I only have sub 35cc saws at this time. How do you start it in the tree when you are straddling a trunk or big limb without violating the stated safety rules?


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## Oregon_Rob (Aug 8, 2002)

*CJ-7*

Who ever thought this simple subject could generate so much discussion?
For starting the small saw in a tree, couldn’t you, most of the time, simply hold the bottom of the saw against a branch or trunk by putting downward force on the loop and pull the rope with the other hand?


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## bwalker (Aug 8, 2002)

My dad taught me to always start a saw on the ground, foot through handle, with the chain break on. Its the only way i ever have done it.


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## svrfsvp (Aug 8, 2002)

When my 088 wouldn't start this past weekend, I started looking around for the kickstarter, then realized they had switched over to electric start on saws over 125cc. In my dreams. Thank goodness for compression release, and the fact that it's now available on saws, too...

I'm in the "foot through the rear handle, hand on the front handle" school, although I will drop start my 046, 029 or my neighbor's lil bitty John Deere (and tell him to never start it that way). Safety first, my one-armed Great Granddaddy always said.

As for handedness, depending on the cussedness of any particular saw, I may tug the rope with my right hand for a while, until my pulse rate reaches about 200 or so, then switch over to my left hand, then go sit down and contemplate just how badly I wanted to saw wood anyway. When my tunnel vision goes away, I return to the saw and start again...


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## stihltech (Aug 8, 2002)

*starting*

That hold the rear handle method was use on the old Poulan/Craftsman saw my inlaw had. Tell you something about how good they started?
I am not trying to pick on Poulan/Craftsman.....wait a minute.. WHAT am I saying!!!! I just worked on a Dayton/ Poulan! Yes..YES I AM picking on them!


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## chainsawworld (Aug 9, 2002)

just walked in the door from a competition in pa. lots of guys lost points in the chainsaw events because of drop starting. drop starting was classified as an un-safe act. marty


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## sedanman (Aug 9, 2002)

I was watching Stihl Timbersports a while back and remember something about the stock-saw event. Seems there's a rule that if a competitor drops starts the stock-saw(066) he's disqualified! Some competitors asked the Stihl saw techs to start the saw for them, as it's a hot start race.


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## TheTreeSpyder (Aug 9, 2002)

Well, i drop start 020, 009, 019 only from my saws (on ground); ok really i only touch the 020..........

But, i am write handed, and pull those saw's recoil with my left hand, holding the saw in my right. Then it starts and my left hand goes to wrap around handle nature-ally. My right hand just stays on the top handle.

i don't touch a saw without a chain brake, it is on when i start; turn, move or pause; slick and quick. int the tree i might use a branch for on/off in a special circumstance, like one handed action.

The way i picture it TreeCo's way i see unnecesary extra moves.

The angle i pitch a med. to heavy weight saw at, makes the curve in the wrap around handle point about straight up, when starting between my legs, this makes the axis of any kick about from 8:00 to 2:00; once again into the more meatier part of my thigh (yes JP even for me!)


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## deadtrees (Aug 9, 2002)

Would someone describe just what a drop start is and how you do it. I do not know.


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## sedanman (Aug 9, 2002)

Drop start is when you hold the saw with one hand usually the left with you arm bent, the starter handle is in your right hand, you move the saw away from the starter handle at the same time you move the starter handle away from the saw. Essentialy you are throwing a chainsaw that is about to be running on high idle....no thanks, I'll take a shot in the nuts first!


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## chainsawworld (Aug 9, 2002)

deadtrees,
sorry. i can't explain it. maybe someone else will. if someone takes my explaination as instruction and gets hurt i don't want to feel contributory, even though i only give brief narratives on the net and not instruction. marty


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## daveb (Aug 9, 2002)

*drop start*

Have I been doing it wrong all these years without incident? I have always held the handlebar with my right hand and pulled the rope with my left. This is how my dad showed me and it's the only way I've ever done it. I've seen people start other ways like foot in the handle or handle between the legs and it always looked a lot harder than my way. I guess you never stop learning. There's a lot of good knowledge to be had from everyone on this forum. Dave


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## mryb (Aug 9, 2002)

So in "laymen's terms". how do you start a chainsaw?...Creep/Pal/Puke/Rick

Creep on loggin'


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## sedanman (Aug 9, 2002)

I'm fat and worn out! bending over to start a saw on the ground does not appeal to me. Getting smacked in the face with a running chainsaw does not appeal to me. Getting smacked in the nuts with a chainsaw handle is the lesser of evils for me, and I haven't done it yet, so I stand with the saw between my legs and start my saws.


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## tundraotto (Aug 10, 2002)

dropstart the saw safely and if you cant - you need a saw you can drop start safely. safety above all.

PS. if you cant droptart your saw youre not a man/real woman


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## TheTreeSpyder (Aug 10, 2002)

It is safer if you put more rope pull in the motion, than saw drop.

i do both at once compounding their motions, but only do this with the 'baby' saws in my right hand. So, i do let the saw drop some, but maybe only a foot, directly away from me (not in arc towards my legs), while pulling a few feet of rope with my left.

Most guys i see drop starting a saw, slam the saw weight down with right hand, just holding the recoil handle, or giving very lil movment with left. i might do that in tree, when legs are clear outta the way behind a log, and arm motion is minimized. My legs barely are long enough to reach the ground when i'm standing as it is!

Always, always, always with the brake on. But start like it is off, jsut in case, that is a double check/catch that we use in many critical situations, and the reason for 10/1 SWL on stuff. This is serious buisness, we are at war with the odds.........oops here comes one of my favorite qutoes, o no, i can't stop it.....

".......You're going to war, always have a backup; 2 is 1 and 1 is none...." Drill Seargeant to troops in G.I. Jane

About 10 times a year someone comes up to me wanting to trade, sell, give etc. a saw, no brake/ no look; gets me outta plenty of them deals! Plus my guys have to listen to me tell someone else about chain brakes!

Shouldn't catch yo'nuts if you slant saw on thigh so that bend of wrap around handle points up, this puts kick's axis of motion from 8:00 to 2:00 rather than 6:00 to 12:00. And curiously serves up recoil handle from left to a nice, maximized pull from right, almost like it was made for it!


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## mryb (Aug 10, 2002)

I tried this drop starting thing on some of my saws. Every I do it, I break the rope. What goes?  
Creep/Pal/Puke/Rick

Creep on loggin'


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## Gypo Logger (Aug 10, 2002)

Rick, ya big Baboon, the saw isnt started as though it was a yo-yo. Get a life!

Question from member: "I just read your thread on starting your saw and it said if you are a leftie (which I am) it's bad news to hold the hand with the right and pull with the left because the bar is close to the thigh? Should I be pulling with my right and holding with my left? Would be ackward at first but in the long run if it's safer I'll practice that method."

All drop starters wether left or right handed should use the right hand on the starter grip with the starter side facing them. To do it any other way is dangerous. Proper dropstarting is a combination of pulling on the cord and droping the saw from a bent left arm. It is nothing more than a smooth flow of effort and co-ordination.
Anyway Robert Andrews and I had this same discussion about starting his Rotax. Anyway, I said I'd hit him with so many drop starts he'd think he was a broken recoil spring.
Gypo


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## Gypo Logger (Aug 10, 2002)

If we all take a moment and listen very closely, we will hear Marty from chainsaw world in his livingroom practicing the dropstart with the ignition off.
Gypo


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## chainsawworld (Aug 10, 2002)

lambert you rat, you promised not to tell! marty


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 12, 2003)

Hi Marty, how you makin out with the dropstarting? Are you going to DD's in March? Whats saws will you be racing in the 6 and over? The West Coast guys prefer the live start, one cut thru a 20"+ log, thus eliminating all the fanfare.
I'm really good at the dead start, at a race in N.H., I forgot to turn the ignition on.
John


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## StIhL MaGnUm (Jan 12, 2003)

Hey John are you gonna go to Dans??What saws will you be haulin' down,I'll be there with the PP385XP,3120XPG,the 064AV,and maybe I'll bring down my new 357XP..

Later Rob..


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## CityUF (Jan 14, 2003)

I start my saws between the knees. All saws even husqvarna 3194( thats a ground option also depending on how tired I am).

The main reason I tell people not drop start is that when you start it your arms are both at full extension and all the weight of the saw is in one hand(with your other hand far away) and the saw is at high idle... some people start without the brake on and that makes it worse because any contact of the bar with something else will result in fast movement of the whole saw with only your fully extended arm and the wrist to support it.

When I start my saws, I use the compression release and it hardly ever takes more than 3 pulls with choke on and one more with choke off to start.

As for crotching myself with the saw... come on... that was my first thought too... but it has never happened, why?... Because I hold the saw on an angle...and ...
HELLO !!! DON"T PULL STRAIGHT UP IN TO YOUR STONES !!


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## Oregon_Rob (Jan 14, 2003)

Interesting discussion. I was self taught (Danger, clueless person with big saw) several years ago. After all the discussions I have read, I feel fortunate to not be dead or seriously mangled. My first saw was an old 80cc J-red with no break or decompression valve and what has evolved into habit is about a one foot drop of the saw and the rest is pull of the rope. It starts with both hands (one holding the saw and one holding the rope) in a down motion and part way through the down motion, I give the rope a quick pull. I have never had a problem with it.


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## don (Jan 14, 2003)

*Oregon_Rob*

Glad you are not hurt.

Have any of you switched to a full grip handle?

The T-handle puller causes blisters for me so I looked into a full "rip cord" style handle like they use on a snowmobile.

Has anyone else tried to use this type of handle?


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 9, 2004)

Hi Don, the snowmobile handles are mostly for cold start racing, I have one on my 346EHP that runs on alcohol.
John


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## Dennis Cahoon (Jan 9, 2004)

Hey Gypo, not all the west coast guys like the hot start. It's just that most of them can't do a cold start. Cold start racing is a lot of fun! Remember this, anybody can make a straight-off cut, but a lot of so-called saw racers can't cold start worth a dam, or make a bore cut, or a multi-cut. Learning to do it all shows your real ability. Dennis


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## Gypo Logger (Jan 9, 2004)

Hi Dennis, I put in a formal complaint to " Stihl Timbersports", to get rid of the cold start, as it is more dangerous than the dropstart. They asked me why and I told them it was like running the 100yd. dash, but having to tie your shoelaces first.
They said they are looking into it.
P.S., get off the phone you sawed off runt, I was trying to call you to pick your brain. It's hard to get good help over the net.
John


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## Marky Mark (Jan 9, 2004)

I almost needed help today I changed my sprocket on my 026 from .325 to 3/8'ths wew I did all on my own. It took about 3 mins to change and about 8 phone calls to Dozer dan. 

It went just as smooth as the tape back up job I worked on today. That was only 5 hours and 6 failed restores.. You ever see a 15 lawyer firm do nothing for 5 hours??


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## Sam Reynolds (Jan 9, 2004)

we own a stihl 024 and usally ground start it but every now and then when its being stuborn it has to be drop started.


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## Sam Reynolds (Jan 9, 2004)

are nutcracker starts really that bad? never tried it so would not know


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## Pacific (Jan 11, 2004)

I drop start my MS260 cold or hot my 046 with a 28" bar I start cold with it bettween my knees (nut cracker) but when its hot and only takes a partial pull to start I will drop start it.

My dads old 051 with a 36" bar it gets started on the ground and you don't forget to depress the decomp valve if you want any fingers left. Cold fingers and the start cord violently pulled out of your hands hurts like h*ll that saw sure has some kick.

Most guys I know drop start saws 046s 372s 066s with 28 and 32" bars I watched the local saw shop guy drop start my 051 (not a good idea)


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## tony marks (Jan 11, 2004)

u dont have to go to big saws to break u arm.. go to lowes ,,get the 2775..
use it 2 weeks.., by that time its about ready to break u arm on a start..if memory serves me,,aint but 46 cc..
oh yea ,,dont forget to take it back..
i let an unbelieving sales person at lowes,,find out for his self.. he went to show this dumb homeowner how to start an saw..he yanked and all the color went out his face.. his comment ,,aint suppose to do like that.. i really felt sorry for the guy.. if id had any thing left in the tank,,when it happened to me..
that dam thing would have been down where the big catfish live.. in the creek.


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## Ryan Willock (Jan 15, 2004)

Could someone help me? I foregot how to start my saw!


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## dbabcock (Jan 15, 2004)

I to would like too know how two start my saw. I tried too start it to times but was unsuckcessful. I figured if one or too of you guys could teach me, then I two could learn how too start a saw.

The Faux Canadian


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## stihltech (Jan 15, 2004)

*start*

Ryan, all I can say is, USE THE CHAINBRAKE. or sing a lot higher.


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## stihltech (Jan 15, 2004)

*start*

That start could lead to a split personality.


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## MasterBlaster (Jan 15, 2004)




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## stihltech (Jan 15, 2004)

*what*

Now that is just sick.


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## MasterBlaster (Jan 15, 2004)

Nah, I'm pretty sure its Monty Python...


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## Pacific (Jan 15, 2004)

I surely hope that isn't the way you start your saw Ryan or your trying to give yourself a redneck vasectomy  

That other picture with the women in the dress trying to cut the guys n*ts off is sicko


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## woodbeard (Jan 15, 2004)

What women?


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## Pacific (Jan 15, 2004)

Uhhhg its a tranny or a guy that needs help


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## Marky Mark (Jun 13, 2005)

I wonder if he ever got his saw started.


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## stihltech (Jun 13, 2005)

NO NO, the chain brake is the handle on top!

Maybe he is trying out some chaps wiyh EXTRA protection. Hope they pass.


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 14, 2005)

If he did get it started I bet he wishes he hadn't!

Harry K


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## Molecule (Jun 15, 2005)

Here's one which I haven't used, but which might be useful, and I didn't see in the threads above --- if you've got a long bar and the foot in the stirrup posture is not working for your aching back, and the veins in your right leg, just behind the knee, have been bruised up by a mean and sore saw, then,

holding the powerhead with your left hand, with the bar going out at 45° to the left, drop down onto your right knee, and place the powerhead on the ground, going out 45° to the left, with the back plate of the rear (trigger) handle snugged up against the inside of your right knee. As for a drop start, when you "pop" the starter chord with the right hand, momentarily press the saw down with the left hand on top of the front handle bar, and backwards a little toward the knee, to brace the saw in a triangle between the ground, your left hand, and your right knee. it won't be moving. With your right hand, smartly pull the starter chord backward (in a plane with the bar), using short one2two "pop" pulls--say 18" of chord max.

When first "waking up" a saw (and myself), I use the between the knees method but slightly modified from the above ... with the bar going out to the front (lol), I turn the saw over 45-60° on its side, and tuck the top of the rear handle just behind the right knee, which is angled just ahead of the left knee. A bottom edge of the saw rests against the top of the left thigh. The left hand holds the front handle bar over to the side, just below the bend (thumb about at the middle of the bend), to give a little tilt control (the disadvantage of this method is the left hand is too near the center of gravity of the saw, and if it's on top of the bar it's useless). Any reactions around the COG should occur in the 45-60° plane (0°=vertical). Never seen a saw benefit from long pulls on the starter chord, so I use short one2two pop pulls with the right hand, sort of upward and back from the saw

Once the saw has been running, I use one-pop drop starts only. Once warmed up, my Makita/Dolmars reliably start on short (8" maybe) "pops" of the starter chord, that is as long as they aren't out of gas. On that point, they are just about the nicest saws I've owned--although the muffler modded 540 is one thirsty little bugger.

--- 

the picture above reminds me of a joke ---

Lucky Pierre is at the beach in his sexy red bikini, and is getting all the girl's attention. So, Lumberman Jack (above?), who is attending the beach in his bluejeans, goes over and asks Lucky Pierre, "Hey man, how come you get all the girls?" Lucky Pierre answers, "Easy man, you just got to get yourself nice sexy little red bikini. Trust me, all the girls will pay attention." So, Lumberman Jack gets himself a skimpy red bikini and tries it out the next day. All day, parading around, but ... still no girls. So, he asks Lucky Pierre again, what should he do. Lucky Pierre looks down, and sees the problem immediately. "Hmmm ... Now look here, Lumberman Jack, don't tell anybody I told you this ok, but go to the grocery store and get yourself a nice big potato, and put it in there, ok. Then you can get all the girls, just like me." So the next day, Lumberman Jack follows the advice, puts the potato in there, and parades up and down the beach all day ... but still ... no girls. So, he asks Lucky Pierre again. Again, Lucky Pierre immediately sees the problem. "Next time," he says to Lumberman Jack, "try putting the potato in the front."


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## Mange (Jun 15, 2005)




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## Ryan Willock (Aug 20, 2005)

Hi Mark, I did finally get my saw started. It took me a while to figure it out but I have it down now, this nice home owner came over and took pitty on me and showed me how.


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## Dan Forsh (Aug 20, 2005)

Gypo,

I've used the drop start method after you told me about it and it works great on smaller saws (242XP) Do you do it when initially choking the saw too? I've found it great for a warm saw, but tend towards foot on the base of the back handle for initial start up. I'm a lefty too.


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## Gypo Logger (Aug 20, 2005)

Hi Dan, even when choking, most drop starters use the drop start. It's really alot less effort than any other method. It's not the only way, but everyone should do what is most comfortable.
Ken Dunn has a very interesting starting style which is a derivitive of the West Coast faller/bucker starting method. Probably developed because of the use of long bars.
John


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## tenacrewoods (Aug 20, 2005)

Ha! Gypo Logger maybe you and MasterBlaster could Do your own Videos On Your drop start methods for more experienced users and other safter methods for beginners.Since you two are the vid. masters on this site,I think this would be a great service here. Show proper start and useage of a chainsaw,Then Again asking two of the wildest Chainsaw Guys out there to instruct us, Maybe a crazy thought!Ha! Ha! NO really do a video.Could help alot of readers.  

THanks
Mike E.


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> What in the world is the advantage to drop starting a saw?


Makes ya look like you know what you're doing. :dunno:
I drop start everything I have but always set the break. 
It's there might as well use it.


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## kruege84 (Apr 1, 2009)

I feel like I just got a visit from Dr. Emmit Brown....


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## windthrown (Apr 1, 2009)

I drop start all my saws with my right hand on the top handle and left on the starter rope. No decomp on my 044, but drop starting I do not really need them. Starting them on the gournd? I need the decomp. 

Long live Gypo Logger!


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## KD57 (Apr 1, 2009)

Holy cow!! This has to be the oldest thread in any forum I have been on that has been brought back to life. Anyway FWIW, I still drop start climbing saws, but usually ground start the rest. Back in my younger days I drop started all of them, I'm too old now. Once I kneel down to gas up, I usually can't get back up so I start them while I'm there on the ground, lol.


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## stinkbait (Apr 1, 2009)

treeclimber165 said:


> I use 3 different starting methods for different size saws.
> Climbing saw- Right hand on rear handle and throttle, pull with left hand
> Small to medium size saw (026)- Left hand on front handle, pull with right hand. Throttle lock set to fast idle.
> Large saws (bigger than an 026)- Set saw on ground, set throttle, stick right toe in rear handle, hold top handle with left hand, pull with right hand.



:agree2:That's exactly how I do it!


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## Sawdustmaker (Apr 1, 2009)

i worked on a crew one time that did not allow droppstarting.... that was annoying since i drop start anything on which i don't bang the bar on the ground 200t-066

whao. right hand on handle pull with left. are you left or right handed? i guess that is bar to the right?


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

Sawdustmaker said:


> i worked on a crew one time that did not allow droppstarting.... that was annoying since i drop start anything on which i don't bang the bar on the ground 200t-066
> 
> whao. right hand on handle pull with left. are you left or right handed? i guess that is bar to the right?


Yeah I did too years ago. I would get wrote up for it often. They said 3 write ups for the same thing you were sent home for 3 days. After I got my 3rd one I said good I get to go home huh, after each one but the butthead never let me leave.
After awhile I figured they ain't gonna fire me, so I had no choice but to quit.


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## olyman (Apr 1, 2009)

Yeah I did too years ago. I would get wrote up for it often. They said 3 write ups for the same thing you were sent home for 3 days. After I got my 3rd one I said good I get to go home huh, after each one but the butthead never let me leave.
After awhile I figured they ain't gonna fire me, so I had no choice but to quit.[/QUOTE]

that right thar is funny raymond---apparently--your employment was more important than your starting method!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :greenchainsaw:


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

olyman said:


> Yeah I did too years ago. I would get wrote up for it often. They said 3 write ups for the same thing you were sent home for 3 days. After I got my 3rd one I said good I get to go home huh, after each one but the butthead never let me leave.
> After awhile I figured they ain't gonna fire me, so I had no choice but to quit.



that right thar is funny raymond---apparently--your employment was more important than your starting method!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :greenchainsaw:[/QUOTE]
LOL Yeah I got wrote up for a few things, it wasn't hard.

I wasn't really a trouble maker though...I did my job. Well unless you consider putting Playgirl magazines under the bosses seat of his truck when he wasn't looking. NOT MINE! We found them on a job site and he happened to show up later. Oh yeah and a big ball of stink bait under the seat one day. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Sawdustmaker (Apr 1, 2009)

Raymond said:


> that right thar is funny raymond---apparently--your employment was more important than your starting method!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :greenchainsaw
> LOL Yeah I got wrote up for a few things, it wasn't hard.
> 
> I wasn't really a trouble maker though...I did my job. Well unless you consider putting Playgirl magazines under the bosses seat of his truck when he wasn't looking. NOT MINE! We found them on a job site and he happened to show up later. Oh yeah and a big ball of stink bait under the seat one day. :hmm3grin2orange:



was it you that told the story of making some guy think his new saw had fallen off the truck?


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

Sawdustmaker said:


> was it you that told the story of making some guy think his new saw had fallen off the truck?


Not I! But we would sometimes unhook a chipper on a foreman before we left the yard. 
They didn't find that much funny though. :dunno:


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## Sawdustmaker (Apr 1, 2009)

Raymond said:


> Not I! But we would sometimes unhook a chipper on a foreman before we left the yard.
> They didn't find that much funny though. :dunno:



ok... i think i remember the stink bait/playgirl being part of that story/thread...


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## Sawdustmaker (Apr 1, 2009)

oh .... i found it... not you...



beowulf343 said:


> A good practical joke we once did: working for asplundh, old whisper chipper. There was a slot between the frame and gas tank that was a handy spot to put a saw to use when chipping and needed to cut something up. However, had to take the saw out when traveling cause it tended to bounce out at high speeds. Had a climber, just bought a brand new husky (been so long i can't even remember what model.) He was so proud of that thing-first day he had it on the job he was using it behind the chipper and of course stuck it in the slot. Get done for the day and get ready to leave, i walk around picking up cones and see the saw is on the chipper so throw it in the chip box. Get back to the yard and he realizes he's missing the saw. I mention i thought that i had seen him use it and stick it in the chipper slot-he runs back-gone! He's almost crying now. We tell him it must have fallen out on the way back to the yard. He jumps in his car and takes off retracing our route. We all laugh and go home. Next day he shows up-he ended up staying up till 3am looking for that saw, even walking the median. Never found it-he was heartbroken. We work along a good chunk of the day and he finally has to hop up in the back and relieve himself. And there he stumbles over his saw! Happy renunion. Of course he starts asking around and i innocently remember that oh yeah, i had forgotten that i threw the saw in the back of the box. Almost got my ass kicked on that one! We still see each other now and again and we still laugh about his lost saw.


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

Sawdustmaker said:


> ok... i just remember the stink bait/playgirl being part of that story...


Well I'll be damn! :dunno: Mike was my foreman/accomplice back then. 
Maybe he's a member? Now that would be cool. You here Mr. Landreth? :Eye: :Eye:


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## Sawdustmaker (Apr 1, 2009)

Raymond said:


> Well I'll be damn! :dunno: Mike was my foreman/accomplice back then.
> Maybe he's a member? Now that would be cool. You here Mr. Landreth? :Eye: :Eye:



I might be mixing stuff up in my mind...


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## GASoline71 (Apr 1, 2009)

Dropstarting saws is just plain unsafe... 

Gary

































































:notrolls2:


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## palogger (Apr 1, 2009)

alot of people say drop starting is unsafe, dangerous and all that kinda stuff, but if the chainbrake is set, i don't see how it is anymore dangerous than anyothe method


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## windthrown (Apr 1, 2009)

GASoline71 said:


> Dropstarting saws is just plain unsafe...
> 
> Gary
> 
> :notrolls2:



Actually, I think that starting a chainsaw at all is unsafe. And running any type of chainsaw is unsafe too. It is just plain dangeroud stuff, running chainsaws. They should regulate chainsaws, and require permits for using them. Then if you want to use a chainsaw, you will have to call a special number, and they will send a person out to your site to oversee your using such a dangerous device. After thorougly inspecting your saw, saftey gear and permits, they will observe while you start and run your chainsaw. That way the world will be safer, and we will all sleep better at night. The other benefit of chainsaw regulation will be that it will require OSHA to hire so many people that the economy will recover. 

While we are at it, we should regulate chainsaw gas and oil too. Rather than have all the complexity of Which chainsaw premix should I use?, and What type of gas should I use? ,and What gas to oil ratio do I use?, we will have specially blended premium gasoline blended with specially approved oil, at the exact ratio of 49.9999999:1 gas to oil. It will come in one and five gallon cans, taxed and labeled and sold at special government gas stations. This contract will be given to none other than GaryWay Products, Inc. which will have the exclusive rigts on all government premix gas sales in the USA. 

Long live Gypo Logger! :hmm3grin2orange:


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## scotclayshooter (Apr 1, 2009)

My 262XP needs more than a drop start.
Its more a throw the saw and pull the rope job.
:hmm3grin2orange:


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## KD57 (Apr 1, 2009)

windthrown said:


> Actually, I think that starting a chainsaw at all is unsafe. And running any type of chainsaw is unsafe too. It is just plain dangeroud stuff, running chainsaws. They should regulate chainsaws, and require permits for using them. Then if you want to use a chainsaw, you will have to call a special number, and they will send a person out to your site to oversee your using such a dangerous device. After thorougly inspecting your saw, saftey gear and permits, they will observe while you start and run your chainsaw. That way the world will be safer, and we will all sleep better at night. The other benefit of chainsaw regulation will be that it will require OSHA to hire so many people that the economy will recover.
> 
> While we are at it, we should regulate chainsaw gas and oil too. Rather than have all the complexity of Which chainsaw premix should I use?, and What type of gas should I use? ,and What gas to oil ratio do I use?, we will have specially blended premium gasoline blended with specially approved oil, at the exact ratio of 49.9999999:1 gas to oil. It will come in one and five gallon cans, taxed and labeled and sold at special government gas stations. This contract will be given to none other than GaryWay Products, Inc. which will have the exclusive rigts on all government premix gas sales in the USA.
> 
> Long live Gypo Logger! :hmm3grin2orange:



OSHA was in here last week, so I am right up there w/ you on the safety rant soapbox. It has gotten to the point we can't even do our job anymore. According to them, I am in violation of the 100% tie-off rule exiting my truck.


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## boltonranger (Apr 1, 2009)

*Another idea.*

For those of you who can't fit your booted foot into the "stirrup" there is another way...
Squat down next to saw, and put your right knee over the rear handle, thus pinning the saw to the ground.

Then start as you would stirrup-style.

Also I _get_ that if you drop start it's "not as safe."
But it _is_ if you use the *chainbrake*. (assuming you have one.)

But folks say "you might forget to set the brake."
Yes... but if you can't remember to set the brake; who says you'll _remember_ not to drop start at all? Or set the choke? ... or use the oil mix gas?
-br

Am I :deadhorse: here?


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## Sawdustmaker (Apr 1, 2009)

boltonranger said:


> For those of you who can't fit your booted foot into the "stirrup" there is another way...
> Squat down next to saw, and put your right knee over the rear handle, thus pinning the saw to the ground.
> 
> Then start as you would stirrup-style.
> ...



I have often started saws by kneeling on the top of the saw from the clutch (bar to the right) side and pulling with my right hand.


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## windthrown (Apr 1, 2009)

Huh? Man, starting a loose chainsaw on the ground is not the way to go. Putting a knee on the saw? No way. Too many ways to fork that up. All this stuff to get around the foot in the handle thing, or putting your foot on the handle is exactly why I drop start my saws. Starting a saw on the ground puts you in a very akward, unbalanced position. And if the brake is not set, and the chain runs... into the dirt... not in hands... seems stupid and potentially more dangerous to me... I think it is far less safe than planting your feet, and starting the saw in your hands, like they designed the chainsaw to be started to begin with. 

I also usually leave the saw brake off when I start saws. Mainly becasue on fast idle, the saw starts easier, and revs free when it runs. No smoking clutches and drums. It also gives me the mindset that the chain is free to run. Many times I see people forget to set the chainbrake, and they are startled when the chain runs... 'oops'. I also have saws that do not have chain brakes. So I have one method and one mindset of starting _all_ my saws. The chain is going to spin when I start it. I do set the brake when I set a saw down, or hand it off, or walk with it while it is running. Or start it with other people near me or in close quarters, like in brush. But that is the exception, rather than the rule.


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## 2000ssm6 (Apr 1, 2009)

There is another method other than drop starting??? What is all this non sense?:blob6:


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## windthrown (Apr 1, 2009)

2000ssm6 said:


> There is another method other than drop starting??? What is all this non sense?:blob6:



Its all there in the first 30 or so pages of any new chainsaw manual.


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## 2000ssm6 (Apr 1, 2009)

windthrown said:


> Its all there in the first 30 or so pages of any new chainsaw manual.



Must be for the new guys........


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## GASoline71 (Apr 1, 2009)

2000ssm6 said:


> There is another method other than drop starting??? What is all this non sense?:blob6:



You really should be careful... I bet you don't have any PPE either... :help:



Gary


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## Fish (Apr 1, 2009)

The foot in the handle method would only work for me if I was wearing my ballet slippers, my foot is not that small....


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## slinger (Apr 1, 2009)

windthrown said:


> Huh? Man, starting a loose chainsaw on the ground is not the way to go. Putting a knee on the saw? No way. Too many ways to fork that up. All this stuff to get around the foot in the handle thing, or putting your foot on the handle is exactly why I drop start my saws. Starting a saw on the ground puts you in a very akward, unbalanced position. And if the brake is not set, and the chain runs... into the dirt... not in hands... seems stupid and potentially more dangerous to me... I think it is far less safe than planting your feet, and starting the saw in your hands, like they designed the chainsaw to be started to begin with.
> 
> I also usually leave the saw brake off when I start saws. Mainly becasue on fast idle, the saw starts easier, and revs free when it runs. No smoking clutches and drums. It also gives me the mindset that the chain is free to run. Many times I see people forget to set the chainbrake, and they are startled when the chain runs... 'oops'. I also have saws that do not have chain brakes. So I have one method and one mindset of starting _all_ my saws. The chain is going to spin when I start it. I do set the brake when I set a saw down, or hand it off, or walk with it while it is running. Or start it with other people near me or in close quarters, like in brush. But that is the exception, rather than the rule.



Exactly:agree2:


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## GASoline71 (Apr 1, 2009)

That paints and aweful picture... 

Gary


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## Fish (Apr 1, 2009)

GASoline71 said:


> That paints and aweful picture...
> 
> Gary



Well they match the tutu...........


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## GASoline71 (Apr 1, 2009)

:help:

Gary


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## 2000ssm6 (Apr 1, 2009)

GASoline71 said:


> You really should be careful... I bet you don't have any PPE either... :help:
> 
> 
> 
> Gary



I wear chaps>............................................................. sometimes...:jawdrop:


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## 2000ssm6 (Apr 1, 2009)

Fish said:


> The foot in the handle method would only work for me if I was wearing my ballet slippers, my foot is not that small....



See, now if you can come out of the closet, why can't woodie???


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## tdi-rick (Apr 1, 2009)

Fish said:


> The foot in the handle method would only work for me if I was wearing my ballet slippers, my foot is not that small....



So is it true what they say about a man's foot size in relation to other appendages Fish ?

I'm sure the ballet slippers would establish a certain _je ne sais que_ amongst trouserless chap wearers too.


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## cpr (Apr 1, 2009)

Depens on the saw, I do whatever works. I usually nutcracker start the Huskys when cold, then drop start them when warm. Once they have little heat in them, it seems to take one firing of the plug to light them up. The Homelites always get the nutcracker start because their so friggin' HUGE. The Mac 15 gets stirrup started because every other way with that saw results in pain.


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## fubar2 (Apr 1, 2009)

Call me weird but I hold the rear handle in my right hand finger on trigger and kind of give a deer with a bullet hole type of kick with my left leg and pull the rope with my left hand. After fourty years thats about the only way for me. Always have done it that way.


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## 2000ssm6 (Apr 1, 2009)

fubar2 said:


> Call me weird but I hold the rear handle in my right hand finger on trigger and kind of give a deer with a bullet hole type of kick with my left leg and pull the rope with my left hand. After fourty years thats about the only way for me. Always have done it that way.



If you have a chain brake and it's on, I don't see a big problem with that. However, without a brake, that could give ya a nasty cut when it fires up at full throttle. Drop starting is the best imo...


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## fubar2 (Apr 1, 2009)

2000ssm6 said:


> If you have a chain brake and it's on, I don't see a big problem with that. However, without a brake, that could give ya a nasty cut when it fires up at full throttle. Drop starting is the best imo...



I twist my right arm a bit to get it away from my leg. Ain't saying it couldn't happen but it hasn't happened yet.


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## windthrown (Apr 1, 2009)

Fish said:


> Well they match the tutu...........



That's just an April fools thing, right?

The tutu and ballet slippers? 

To run as PPE with a chainsaw? 

Its a joke.... right? 

I mean, Fish in ballet slippers and a tutu... :monkey: 

Imagine the potential hazards of running a saw with that stuff. 

My brain is bending under the incredible weight of that thought. 

A tutu and ballet slippers... 

The Wood Fairies would have you bent over a log in a heartbeat!


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## tdi-rick (Apr 1, 2009)

windthrown said:


> <snip>
> 
> The Wood Fairies would have you bent over a log in a heartbeat!



Windy, read the second line of my post above.


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## Fish (Apr 1, 2009)

In the Arborist world, I am called a "Teddy Bear"...........


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## windthrown (Apr 1, 2009)

Well, from your sig line: 

For $20, me love you longtime

Does that include the tutu and ballet slippers? :hmm3grin2orange:


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## Tzed250 (Apr 1, 2009)

raymond said:


> makes ya look like you know what you're doing. :dunno:
> I drop start everything i have but always set the break.
> It's there might as well use it.



wtf???

A quote from 7 years ago??


You might need to "look" like you know what you're doing, but I don't give a rats a$$ what it looks like. 






As soon as you can prove to me that you know more about running a saw than I do I'll listen. Until then have a nice *%#&ing day....









.


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## gallegosmike (Apr 1, 2009)

I was a ground starter with chain brake on. I moved onto modified drop starting. I pull till get the piston to TDC and then drop start. I leave the chian brake off and just keep a firm grip on handle bar.


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> wtf???
> 
> A quote from 7 years ago??
> 
> ...


Runnin' low on your meds. are ya? 
You know you could always sniff paint.


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## Tzed250 (Apr 1, 2009)

Raymond said:


> Runnin' low on your meds. are ya?
> You know you could always sniff paint.



Or I could be a lame newbie troll like you that has to go digging in ancient threads to have something to talk about. Seems you like old stuff, you must like sniffing your 3 week old underwear....


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## Raymond (Apr 1, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> Or I could be a lame newbie troll like you that has to go digging in ancient threads to have something to talk about. Seems you like old stuff, you must like sniffing your 3 week old underwear....


LOL NOT I opened this thread for the first time and your dumb question was there, so I answered it. I don't give a rats ass what the dates are punkin.


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## boltonranger (Apr 2, 2009)

*The mental picture is priceless*



Fish said:


> The foot in the handle method would only work for me if I was wearing my ballet slippers, my foot is not that small....



 
Good One Fish.
-br


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## Tzed250 (Apr 2, 2009)

Gaymond said:


> Makes ya look like you know what you're doing. :dunno:
> I drop start everything I have but always set the *break*.
> It's there might as well use it.



You need to go back to second grade and learn the difference between *break* and *brake*. Maybe first grade is the highest one you completed though. 




Gaymond said:


> Yeah I did too years ago. I would get wrote up for it often. They said 3 write ups for the same thing you were sent home for 3 days. After I got my 3rd one I said good I get to go home huh, after each one but the butthead never let me leave.
> After awhile I figured they ain't gonna fire me, so I had no choice but to quit.






You must have trouble following directions, or with authority, or both.






Gaymond said:


> that right thar is funny raymond---apparently--your employment was more important than your starting method!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :greenchainsawLOL Yeah I got wrote up for a few things, it wasn't hard.
> 
> I wasn't really a trouble maker though...I did my job. Well unless you consider putting Playgirl magazines under the bosses seat of his truck when he wasn't looking. NOT MINE! We found them on a job site and he happened to show up later. Oh yeah and a big ball of stink bait under the seat one day. :hmm3grin2orange:





Gaymond said:


> Not I! But we would sometimes unhook a chipper on a foreman before we left the yard.
> They didn't find that much funny though. :dunno:






What a quality employee you must have been...






Gaymond said:


> LOL NOT I opened this thread for the first time and your dumb question was there, so I answered it. I don't give a rats ass what the dates are punkin.







You are a troll, plain and simple. Your response to my post was offered no useful information. You are the kind of weasel that likes to cause trouble, as shown by your work history. Now you've got it, bub. 

When you have been here longer, and loose that newbie a$$ up on your shoulders, you will find out that there are many ways people prefer to do things. No matter what you do you won't convince them another way is better. 

Have a nice day troll...




.


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## Raymond (Apr 2, 2009)

WOW...Right On! My first fan.


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## Tzed250 (Apr 2, 2009)

Gaymond said:


> WOW...Right On! My first fan.




As I figured....nothing to add...just another Internet troublemaker. 

Have a Coke and smile troll...




.


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## logbutcher (Apr 3, 2009)

The girls are at it...again. The sand is flying.:deadhorse:
Anyhow back to the post: 
*Brake on
Crotch start*
Safe, reliable, controlled.....some like it that way.


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## Dan_IN_MN (Apr 3, 2009)

*Drop starting here*

I drop start. Hold saw with left hand on top bar. Drop saw and pull up on rope. I switch hands on the rope with right hand on the trigger if it's starting hard. Still dropping. If it's being really stubborn, then it's on the ground, knee on top.

I did some cutting yesterday and noted how I started. I keep the bar away from me. I know which end bites!

Dan


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## Rockfarmer (Apr 3, 2009)

I just put a new fanwheel on my 051. I also completely redid my recoil spring and new pull rope with elastostart. I got it all set and I figured Id be cool and dropstart that bad boy then and there. Well on the first pull she pulled back and ripped the elastostart right out of my hand. After I got over the shock, pain and numbness I'm looking at the saw (Big Pappi) like wtf  I'm looking at the elastostart and it broke underneath and a big chunk of plastic had come out! Well no more of that nonsense, on the floor for Big Pappi with the whole respect, plan, prepare and start


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## Freehand (Apr 3, 2009)

I drop start any size saw I have-I pull it to TDC -making sure the pawls are engaged(this I find is a very important step) and let er rip.

they start in 3 pulls,every time,any weather


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## Tzed250 (Apr 3, 2009)

logbutcher said:


> The girls are at it...again. The sand is flying.:deadhorse:
> Anyhow back to the post:
> *Brake on
> Crotch start*
> Safe, reliable, controlled.....some like it that way.



Your girls must look fairly rugged....


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