# 98.5 dodge ram 2500 cummins 24v problems please help if can!



## 4x4American

First off, truck info: 1998.5 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins 24v with Bosch VP44 fuel injection pump. pretty much stock, just some aftermarket front end parts, B&W turnover ball gooseneck hitch, cooper discoverer at3 sneakers, & mbrp 5" straight pipe exhaust.

I installed an airdog raptor frrp on sunday, and it worked great all day sunday. there was one thing i didnt like, and that was the 90 degree elbow the comes out of the raptor was bumping into the ecm wiring harness, the truck i believe got a new ecm before i bought it and the wires were kinda off to the right a bit more than stock so i undid the wire loom and moved the wires back to the left and tightened the loom back up. at that time i was praying that wouldnt screw anything up. I ran into a problem today, this morn at 5am i started her up and let her run for awhile whilst i packed lunch and put on my boots, when i got in the truck i saw the check engine light had came on, and the tachometer was reading 0 while truck was idling. so i turned off truck, held the trip reset button and cycled my key 5 or 7 times to get it to reset the gauges. after the gauges reset it worked fine for awhile, then it would stop working for a minute, and then resume to working. without thinking much of it i drove my 45 miles to work. it seemed to run just fine on the way there. after work i started my truck and let her idle for awhile then i remembered the CEL. so i went and grabbed bossman's innova 3150 OBD2 scan tool and plugged it in. 5 codes come up, 2 of which were on there twice for some reason. the codes were: 
-P1693 
-P0336: crank position sensor A circuit range/performance 
-P1690: fuel injection pump CKP sensor does not agree with ECM CKP sensor 
-P0336
-P1690 

So, I cleared the codes to see if they would come up again. After I had cleared the codes, the engine would crank but it wouldn't fire. Didn't sound like it had a prayer in hell of starting. So I disconnected the batteries and let it set for awhile, reconnected them, and it started up. CEL came back on. I was happy that it started, and I drove to the local stihl dealership on the way home to get some parts. I shut it off after spooling the turbo down for a spell, when i come back out, engine wouldn't start, again. This time I didn't have bossman's scan tool. So I disconnected batteries, let it set, reconnected them, still wouldn't start. This time it would kinda spit and sputter and it sounded like it wanted to start. It seemed like it was starved of fuel. I turned on the key to listen for the raptor to pump and it wasn't making any noise. I disconnected the quick connect from the raptor to the fuel filter housing and turned key on without cranking, nothing, no fuel. I bumped the starter to see if that would make it pump, and nothing. raptor was not pumping. I tried moving around the wiring harness to see if maybe there was bad connections. I called bossman (he lives near me and passes stihl dealership on his way home, too), I caught him just in time and he said he'd be there soon to give me his scan tool (he has all his tools on his f750). Whilst waiting for him I tried cranking it with quick connect disconnected, and engine started. I turned it right off because I didn't want to trash the VP44. I reconnected the quick connect and it started up again, cranked a little longer than usual. I don't think that the raptor is pumping. Is it possible that the VP44 is being forced to suck the fuel all the way up from the tank? Its hard to tell if the raptor is pumping while truck is running, and I don't want to take off the quick connect while truck is running for fear it might trash VP44. I don't have a fuel psi gauge, I know I should and I have no excuse not to, I am going to order an autometer fuel psi gauge tonight. I have just a warning light that comes on when there is low fuel psi.

Does anyone have any suggestions or advice they might be able to give? I'm in a real pickle I need my truck for work I have all my tools on it, I need this rig to make money.
Thanks, Doug


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## Scott-n-Ga

1693 is basically states there is a code in the PCM
1690 is the Cam sensor does agree with the crank sensor

if you can get the code reader again, and if can show live data crank it over and look for RPMS if shows none the Crank sensor is bad. Most likely you have a bad crank sensor and just happened to go out after the airdog install.

With the P0336 pretty much says crank sensor.
Sometimes you can just look at the factory tach and wind the crap out of it or shoot a little ether in it to run it, no tach movement means no crank signal.


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## bigbadbob

Scott-n-Ga said:


> 1693 is basically states there is a code in the PCM
> 1690 is the Cam sensor does agree with the crank sensor
> 
> if you can get the code reader again, and if can show live data crank it over and look for RPMS if shows none the Crank sensor is bad. Most likely you have a bad crank sensor and just happened to go out after the airdog install.
> 
> With the P0336 pretty much says crank sensor.
> Sometimes you can just look at the factory tach and wind the crap out of it or shoot a little ether in it to run it, no tach movement means no crank signal.


+1.
If you bump the starter you should hear the pump run for 15 seconds, thats how you bleed the air out of the system.
My 98.5 is on its 4th lift pump, have a lowfuel pressure LED, I believe it has saved my original VP44, truck as 130,000 kilos on it.
If you have a chip or programmer remove it, my EDGE chip caused the same symptoms as you describe also.
Diesel truck resource is a good site for information.
Hope this help and good luck.
BBB


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## 4x4American

*Thanks for good info!*

I think i figured it out, when I primed airdog raptor fuel come out of the outlet like a tidal wave and i think that once that seeped into the CKP sensor it confused it. After some cussin i got the sensor changed (its wedged behind the starter so you gotta pull the starter to get to it, and it was snowing outside so i was gettin soaked) and cleaned every harness that was near it and it seems to work now. Thanks for your input guys, I appreciate it!


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## mdavlee

You can get a low pressure gauge from an auto parts store to connect to the bleed off valve on the injection pump until the new gauge comes in. I had a FASS that quit going down the road due to a loose connection in the fuse box.


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## PLMCRZY

First of all the vp44 wont suck from the tank i guess it will but not very good. The vp itself needs a minimum of 15psi of fuel pressure to stay working. If you just put the raptor on but ran that pump with the failing fuel pump, 9 times outta 10 your vp is toasted. P1693 code is a companion code for the injection pump. Usually means its failed. I dont care how less of miles you got on your new vp44 if you ran it with a failing stock fuel pump, its most likely failed. The 2 best upgrades for a 24v engine is a fuel pump (like you have) and fuel pressure gauge. The stock carter fuel pumps were the weak link in 24vs.

Pm me if you need help, i had a 01 and i been thru it so many times i cant remember. I know a good deal of info about the 98.5-02 24vs.

I would also suggest putting a switch on your raptor instead of it hooked up to the key. I wired my raptor 150 straight to battery with a fuse and switch.

sent from my galaxy tab 2


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## PLMCRZY

bigbadbob said:


> +1.
> If you bump the starter you should hear the pump run for 15 seconds, thats how you bleed the air out of the system.
> My 98.5 is on its 4th lift pump, have a lowfuel pressure LED, I believe it has saved my original VP44, truck as 130,000 kilos on it.
> If you have a chip or programmer remove it, my EDGE chip caused the same symptoms as you describe also.
> Diesel truck resource is a good site for information.
> Hope this help and good luck.
> BBB



Thats because your edge chip boosts fuel and the stock lift pump cant keep up. I had a midwest injection hotrod vp44 and quadzilla adrenaline with mach 6 injectors, thats alot of fuel. My raptor 150 held a constant 20psi.

sent from my galaxy tab 2


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## 4x4American

PLMCRZY said:


> First of all the vp44 wont suck from the tank i guess it will but not very good. The vp itself needs a minimum of 15psi of fuel pressure to stay working. If you just put the raptor on but ran that pump with the failing fuel pump, 9 times outta 10 your vp is toasted. P1693 code is a companion code for the injection pump. Usually means its failed. I dont care how less of miles you got on your new vp44 if you ran it with a failing stock fuel pump, its most likely failed. The 2 best upgrades for a 24v engine is a fuel pump (like you have) and fuel pressure gauge. The stock carter fuel pumps were the weak link in 24vs.
> 
> Pm me if you need help, i had a 01 and i been thru it so many times i cant remember. I know a good deal of info about the 98.5-02 24vs.
> 
> I would also suggest putting a switch on your raptor instead of it hooked up to the key. I wired my raptor 150 straight to battery with a fuse and switch.
> 
> sent from my galaxy tab 2



Thanks for your advice. The raptor pump is doing a good job, I reckon I'll run this vp44 til it blows then go from there...now hopefully the KDP wont get me, the guy said he was 99% sure the fix was done...I'm going to check it at one point in my life, just never have time and I work on trucks all week so its kinda the last thing I wanna do when I get free time on my hands.


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## PLMCRZY

4x4American said:


> Thanks for your advice. The raptor pump is doing a good job, I reckon I'll run this vp44 til it blows then go from there...now hopefully the KDP wont get me, the guy said he was 99% sure the fix was done...I'm going to check it at one point in my life, just never have time and I work on trucks all week so its kinda the last thing I wanna do when I get free time on my hands.



I wouldnt worry about it to much never messed with mine and it would spin a lil over 4k!

sent from my galaxy tab 2


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## bigbadbob

You got the 53 block???
If the KDP was done from the outside it should not be to hard to see the plug, did mine that way. 
BTW my last two pump failures were on the stock engine, both carters.
BBB


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## PLMCRZY

bigbadbob said:


> You got the 53 block???
> If the KDP was done from the outside it should not be to hard to see the plug, did mine that way.
> BTW my last two pump failures were on the stock engine, both carters.
> BBB



Forgot about the dreaded 53 block!

sent from my galaxy tab 2


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## bigbadbob

I have the 53, but its towed hard, chipped and big injectors and hasn't failed, doubt it will now.
Got rid of the stock TC also and added a shift kit, the old TC was just starting to shudder on torque lock.
BBB


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## 4x4American

bigbadbob said:


> You got the 53 block???
> If the KDP was done from the outside it should not be to hard to see the plug, did mine that way.
> BTW my last two pump failures were on the stock engine, both carters.
> BBB



yup I gotta 53 block...having a 53 block isn't a death sentence its a gamble. most have been known to crack whilst towing heavy loads in high altitudes from what i've researched. what do you mean done by from the outside? do you mean when the engine is out of the truck? I don't think that I could even fit inside my engine let alone do any work on it from in there.


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## bigbadbob

There is a kit/jig you can get and you drill a hole from outside the timing cover, thread the hole and put an Allen screw in.
If it doesn't go in your pin is walking out, if it screws in all is well and the pin cant come out.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Dowel_Pin/bolt.htm

BBB


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