# Cutting seasoned Oak



## boatman (May 13, 2010)

I am using my Husqvarna 51 on seasoned oak for the first time. Very slow going. Is it normal to go through 2 tanks of gas and sharpen the blade once just to make one cut in a 3x12x12'. I am using a standard chain, not a ripping chain. Will ripping chain speed things up?

The green cherry I had been cutting was no problem for this setup. Now I have a few more of these beams to cut and the bar gets so hot it seems like there must be a better way.


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## BlueRidgeMark (May 13, 2010)

Chainsaws don't have blades.


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## mtngun (May 13, 2010)

boatman said:


> I am using a standard chain, not a ripping chain. Will ripping chain speed things up?
> 
> the bar gets so hot


Ripping chain cuts smoother, but not necessarily faster.

When the saw is running well, the bar is merely lukewarm. If your bar is getting hot, something is wrong. Could be several things, but if I had to guess, I'd guess dull chain. 

Thanks for the pic. Nice boards. Wish I had some oak to mill.


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## boatman (May 13, 2010)

They have a lot of little blades, all connected together in a bicycle chain kind of thing.


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## discounthunter (May 13, 2010)

husky 51 is a little on the small side ,but youve proven that it works. speed is not going to be there no matter what you do. not sure of the size of a husky take but my 120 dolmar can easily cut 12foot x 2" x 18" wide on one tank(actually 2 six foot boards) 

i didnt notice any wedges in your pics? you might be binding your"blade"(lol sorry i had too) while cutting this may contribute to exces heat on your bar, dulling your chain quicker and slowing your cuts using more fuel?

but the boards look good,nice job.


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## boatman (May 13, 2010)

I started with a chain that was just sharpened at a local hardware store and I didn't like how it was cutting. I then put on a different bar and chain (20") and sharpened it with a guide and file. Depth gauges were fine, maybe a little low. 

The bar got so hot that the rain sizzled off of it. Maybe I need to work on my chain sharpening skills. I can sharpen hand saws well and judging by the looks of the dust the chain was not cutting well. More dust than chips. I'll resharpen and check my work tomorrow.

I have found a half inch plank works better than wedges for me as it doesn't fall out and I just move it up the cut twice as I go.


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## mikeb1079 (May 13, 2010)

hey boatman, a few things to check. make sure that your rakers aren't too high. as you file your chain you'll need to file the rakers down as well. perhaps not every time but i usually file the rakers after every other chain sharpening. as mtngun said, if the bar is that hot something is amiss. if you have a greaseable sprocket nose make sure it's greased (i ruined a tip this way) always. make sure that the bar is oiling properly and that something isn't clogged. check the simple stuff first.
good luck!


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## BobL (May 13, 2010)

boatman said:


> I am using my Husqvarna 51 on seasoned oak for the first time. Very slow going. Is it normal to go through 2 tanks of gas and sharpen the blade once just to make one cut in a 3x12x12'. I am using a standard chain, not a ripping chain. Will ripping chain speed things up?
> 
> The green cherry I had been cutting was no problem for this setup. Now I have a few more of these beams to cut and the bar gets so hot it seems like there must be a better way.



Nope it is not normal to use 2 tankfuls to cut 12 sq ft of wood - my guess is it will be your rakers are too high.
The raker depth below the cutters should be approximately 1/10 of your gullet width. If you are using raker guides that looks like these,




then put them aside and get yourself a progressive raker guide like a Carlton FOP. 

If you want to go all the way to milling chain nirvana then read this thread
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=114624
Post #42 shows how I do it with a DAF
Post #68 has a link to a youtube video of me setting rakers and another of me filing


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## MostShady1 (May 13, 2010)

opcorn:


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## billstuewe (May 13, 2010)

I have been milling a bunch of red oak logs that have been down just over 2 years and the edges are dry. I watch as the leading edge of the bar goes by a spot and count the seconds it takes to saw the bar past that point (about 3½") and with a sharp chain it is taking about 2-3 seconds to cut the bar width. When the sawing slows to 5 seconds I sharpen the chain. If the sharp chain is not up to speed, I lower the rakers a bit. I use depth guages and lower to 10% of the gullet length.


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## jimdad07 (May 14, 2010)

I would do all of the above and then maybe check your oiler by pointing the bar end at a piece of standing cardboard and see if you have any spray coming off of the nose of the bar. Wedges are very important, if you start pinching the bar and chain towards the middle to end of your cut, you will create a lot of heat and friction that will dull your chain faster, don't ask me how I know.


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## Mike Van (May 15, 2010)

Seasoned [as you call it] oak is really dry, really hard compared to the cherry. You will really shorten the life of your saw, bar & chains cutting it the way you are. You are using chain designed to crosscut wood to rip it. Probably not well sharpened either. If you had a brand new out of the box chain, you'd have something to compare your other chains to. If you owned a few handsaws, try ripping a board with a crosscut saw, you'd see what you are up against. You can do it, but it sucks. Your 51 will not be long for this world if you keep running it so the bars so hot it sizzles.


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## showrguy (May 15, 2010)

since nobody else said it yet..
if your b/c got that hot you most likely have flared edges on your bar, run your fingernail from bar to chain, i bet it catches on something just before it touches the chain---------file/grind that smooth/off !!!!
if your bar rails are
flared out it ain't gonna matter how sharp your chains are or how deep your rakers are.......it ain't gonna cut right, period....
my .02 cents


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## BobL (May 15, 2010)

showrguy said:


> since nobody else said it yet..
> if your b/c got that hot you most likely have flared edges on your bar, run your fingernail from bar to chain, i bet it catches on something just before it touches the chain---------file/grind that smooth/off !!!!
> if your bar rails are
> flared out it ain't gonna matter how sharp your chains are or how deep your rakers are.......it ain't gonna cut right, period....
> my .02 cents



And a very good 2c too - that will certainly explain the br getting hot.


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## boatman (May 18, 2010)

New bar, resharpened chain( second sharpening on new chain). Dulls quickly, the bar still gets too hot to keep fingers on but cuts well enough. Top planks are a rougher cut than bottom. Uneven sharpening? Cutting speed in red oak of around 5-6 seconds to cut bar width. White oak(second cut without sharpening in between) 12-15 seconds to cut bar width.

What type ripping chain would be best for cutting oak cants that have been in a barn for 10+ years. With a Husqvarna 51.

Ive got better picture coming but it's taken about 3 hours to download this one from my phone.


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## mtngun (May 18, 2010)

Nice boards, and I'm jealous of your hardwoods, as usual. 







> What type ripping chain would be best for cutting oak cants that have been in a barn for 10+ years. With a Husqvarna 51.


That bone dry white oak must be tough stuff, but still, no tougher than many of the other hardwoods that AS members routinely mill.

I'm not aware of any miracle chain. Bailey's/Carlton/Oregon ripping chain would cut smoother, and perhaps a little easier on your saw, but not necessarily one iota faster.

Granberg ripping chain is supposed to be the best, but it's spendy. You might want to save money for a bigger saw, instead. Or a bandmill.

You said you were using "standard" chain. There are different kinds of "standard" crosscut chain. Stay away from "safety" chain because it cuts slower. Stay away from full-chisel, because it dulls quickly.

If you must use crosscut chain, use non-safety semi-chisel. Common ripping chain is just non-safety semi-chisel ground to 10 degree top plate angle.


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## jimdad07 (May 18, 2010)

None of my business, but if you are set up well enough or have the means to save up, I would strongly recommend a bigger saw with more power and something that is pro grade. You will see a very large difference in the speed of your cuts as well how easy it is to cut, I bet you have to push pretty hard to get through a cut right now even with new chain. It takes a lot more power to rip logs than it does to cross cut them. Not trying to sound like a saw snob either, just think you might see a big difference. BTW, I am having good luck with a Dolmar 6400 using Carlton full chisel chain. Not saying Dolmar is the best either, that is just what I am using and that may be a little on the small side but it is handling green oak up the 20" with no problems.


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## boatman (Jun 2, 2010)

I cleaned up my 16" bar and filed down the depth gauges on the 10 degree chain. Now it cuts great. 

I don't push hard at all, instead I keep the rpm's up and that seems to make it cut faster. Keeps the saw cooler too.

Much smoother cut now. I won't take chain to that sharpening shop again. Putting the bar and chain in a hand saw vise and under a good light helped in sharpening allot.

Thanks for all the advise, for a while there I was considering upgrading to a pit saw.


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## mtngun (Jun 2, 2010)

boatman said:


> I cleaned up my 16" bar and filed down the depth gauges on the 10 degree chain. Now it cuts great.
> 
> I don't push hard at all, instead I keep the rpm's up and that seems to make it cut faster. Keeps the saw cooler too.


Good deal.  Thanks for the update.


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## gemniii (Jun 2, 2010)

boatman said:


> I
> I don't push hard at all, instead I keep the rpm's up and that seems to make it cut faster. Keeps the saw cooler too.



Now get the tree on an angle and let it self- feed.


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## boatman (Oct 8, 2010)

Well, I thought it was oak but wasn't sure if white or red so we took a few cut offs to the MSU Forestry Dept. It turned out to be Hickory. 

So I guess little saw did all right ripping 12-14" dry Hickory slabs. 

Some day I would like to get my hands on some softwood.


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## Fallguy1960 (Oct 10, 2010)

I have read different opinions on greasing the sprocket on the bar tip. Of course some say no if your oiler is up to snuff there is no need. Others says the more lube the better. Now I will pose the question to the Masters of the Mill. To grease or not to grease that is the question?


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## Hillbilly3995 (Oct 10, 2010)

Fallguy1960 said:


> I have read different opinions on greasing the sprocket on the bar tip. Of course some say no if your oiler is up to snuff there is no need. Others says the more lube the better. Now I will pose the question to the Masters of the Mill. To grease or not to grease that is the question?



I sharpen my chains on a chain grinder and change them out often, I grease tip with every chain swap. FWIW


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## DRB (Oct 10, 2010)

I have a 36" Stihl bar with a tip that has no grease fitting. It has been holding up just fine with no aux. oiler. Although if it had a grease fitting I would grease it.


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## mtngun (Oct 10, 2010)

I never grease, most of my bars have no grease hole.


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## DaltonPaull (Oct 10, 2010)

I'm glad that your having better results now Boatman but I'm surprised your bar was getting that hot.

You never mentioned whether your oiler was working properly. The oil holes in the bar seam to clog pretty easy so I try to remember to clean out the bar grove and oil holes every time I take the chain off. 

If I'm concerned about the status of the oiler while I'm cutting, I usually pull the chain away for the bar and make sure the drive link is wet with oil.

BTW, nice boards. What are you planing to make?


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## boatman (Oct 10, 2010)

My oiler is working. It is just hard dry wood and I haven't got the chain sharpening down yet. I can sharpen regular chain with no problems.

Where I have been having trouble is taking the chain to a store to have it ground to 10 degrees. They absolutely screw it up and I spend the the next few cuts trying to get it to preform. Three shops have ruined my chains so far. I guess I'll just have to buy milling chain until I get a grinder and can make my own.

I am using the white oak to restore an old sailboat. Red oak for a 8x12 timber frame goat shed and I wasn't expecting to have all this Hickory. Don't know what to do with that yet.


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## BobL (Oct 10, 2010)

I've never Greased a bar nose but I do use an Aux oiler - even on my small mill.


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## Fallguy1960 (Oct 10, 2010)

I do not grease either. It looks like I am in good company.:greenchainsaw:


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