# Dura Disk or Green Teeth



## BCstumper (Jun 8, 2008)

Has anybody tried both of these? What were your findings? Looking for new cutting system for my 252. Dont mind paying more for dura-disk if it lives up to it claims. I know green teeth reduced there size, has that made a big diffrence? Has anybody tried the M-1 wheel?



Brian


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## Oly's Stump (Jun 8, 2008)

I have the sandvik wheel on one of my machines and the chips stack up nicely under the machine. Never tried green teeth but guys with them told me that the chips fly everywhere in the yard.


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## stumper63 (Jun 8, 2008)

I've got 500 hours on the Sandvik on my 252. I haven't tried Greenteeth or M-1. I think Plyscamp runs the M-1 on his 252. I feel investment was well worth it. Grinds faster, tooth changing is a snap, stay sharp a long time. You will find the short teeth do majority of grinding it seems and dull faster than long ones, get 2:1 ratio when buying spare teeth. Wheel is much thicker and heavier, seems to help from bogging down when down in the dirt. No clutch problems, same old clutch with 1900 hours, 2725 total machine hours. Chip throw way reduced.

Stumper63


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## dave k (Jun 8, 2008)

I've had 60TX and Fermex 65hp on 1100 greens, Danequip(Dosko) 27hp on 700 greens and carlton 4012 29hp on 900 greens now running carlton 8018 99hp and carlton 2010 27hp on Sandvik. Found the 900 greens the most durable but all threw chip everywhere !! the 700's were barley if atall cost effective. The 2010 has 30 sandvik teeth and cuts like a demon, it shrugs off stone and concrete, I reckon I get at least 3 -4 more jobs out of the sandvik on the small machine. As for the 8018 it just keeps grinding ! I firmly believe I 
could not operate in a cost effective manner without the sandvik option !!!


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## Creeker (Jun 8, 2008)

Dave, did your Carlton 4012 have 700's and you changed over to 900's?


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## dave k (Jun 10, 2008)

Creeker, mine came with the 900's and I was very pleased with them. As far as I know some lads in the UK are running 1100's on their 4012's with no problems ?


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## Creeker (Jun 10, 2008)

Very interesting Dave, here in AUS. they come standard with the 700's, (at 3/4" diameter).
I'm more than happy with them so far, but could see the benefits of a larger and stronger cutter in the 900's.
I guess from that, that the different 900 pockets must line up with exisiting holes in cutter wheel?900's might be less likely to round off the cutting edge when you find a rock or some buried concrete etc.
Do you blokes do much hardwood?, perhaps the bigger teeth bog down with lower powered machines in Eucalypts here, its food for thought though, thanks for that info.
Its worth noting that machinery we have and take as 'normal' could be set up a fair bit different from another part of the world.
What are your hardwoods......excuse my ignorance..........is it oaks?
I ordered some 700's from US recently with the bigger dish/indent in the cutter face, supposed to be good on pines. I don't do a lot of pines, but will have them handy to try out.
You seem very happy with the Sandvik wheel, they havn't got here that I know of, would you run them on all your machines in time?

Hooroo (goodbye) for now, 

Creeker.


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## arbor pro (Jun 11, 2008)

The 1100 deep dish teeth run just fine on my 252 as long as I keep a somewhat sharp edge on them. When the entire tooth is notably rounded, I change it out for a new one and put the used one on my 665a which then runs the 1100 tooth until it's really dull or broken.

I just took out 15 fresh spruce stumps this past weekend using the 252 with the 1100 teeth. The average size was 12-15" and the entire job took just 1 hour and 20 minutes - that's an average of 5 1/2 minutes per stump or about 2" dia per minute. 

With the vermeer pro teeth, I was probably grinding at a rate of about 1" dia per minute so, I'm happy with the increased production of the greenteeth. I'd love to try the sandvik setup but the price was right for converting to the greenteeth so I went that route.

Our local city forestry dept runs sandvik teeth on a 3-pnt pto grinder and it really chews the stumps out fast. Either setup, greenteeth or sandvik, would be a huge improvement from the old style vermeer teeth.


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## Creeker (Jun 11, 2008)

I reckon the importers here must think that the 700's are more suitable for hardwoods. When I do softwood the machine just slaughters the wood wholesale.........very easy grinding compared to dry eucalypts for instance.
I might make some enquiries and see if others here use >700's on the smaller machines.


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## gr8scott72 (Jun 11, 2008)

Creeker said:


> I reckon the importers here must think that the 700's are more suitable for hardwoods. When I do softwood the machine just slaughters the wood wholesale.........very easy grinding compared to dry eucalypts for instance.
> I might make some enquiries and see if others here use >700's on the smaller machines.



I had 700s on my Rayco 1625 and loved them. I agree on the pine thing. The greenteeth would ribbon the softwood very quickly.

I have the sandvik on my 7015 trx now and like them too. I can't really compair the two as they are two very different machines.


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## dave k (Jun 11, 2008)

Creeker, sorry I should clarify my 4012 (ex demo machine) arrived with finger teeth. When I went to order greenteeth at first I said 700's but was told of a bullitin from Greenteeth saying that any hire machines or well worked machines should consider fitting 900's and as that was their opinon I was happy with that and it worked well. If I had kept the 4012 I would have changed over to sandvik. All the GT's Ive used have been deep dish reds. I would grind both hard and softwoods in pretty much equal numbers, lots of large beech ,sycamore, oak along with heaps of macracarpa and all sorts pine and spruce- I found the GT's worked very well but as a contractor I maintain sandvik is the way to go.


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## Creeker (Jun 12, 2008)

Thanks Dave, plenty of food for thought in yr. reply re GT & Sandvik.


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## stumpgo (Jun 15, 2008)

Creeker, I run a machine of similar power, generally in very harsh conditions. This combination I think tips the balance in favour of green teeth, particularly so, if you do not have a bigger machine to pass dullish teeth onto.
I do plenty of jobs where I know that at best after a couple of hours all lead teeth will be blunt and all the others dulled, whatever the cutter system. Or, with less than 30hp, they will appear that way when moving on to a large hard-wood stump.

After a bit of playing around I settled on a very sparse set-up of the largest green teeth (1100's). On a 19" tip to tip wheel I have just 4 pocket stations. Two leads set 3/4" ahead of the 2 followers (all straights). Thus in effect just 2 cutters each side of the wheel do nearly all the work. On site cutter maintenance pretty much becomes a non-issue.

Some of the advantage of a larger machine is gained - putting all the power into one cutter at a time seems to allow dull cutters to be more effective.

I'm now 250hrs into this system and completely satisified with it.

I've put a bit of thought into sharpening, and can process about 15 cutters an hour in clean comfort and get 3-5 sharpenings out of most teeth, by which time the carbide is quite thin and they have been reduced in dia. to about that of 900's, and may well have had all but one cutting edge chipped away. But can still serve a useful final life in the non-lead position.

If your machine has a rayco type set-up then the flavour of this system should be easy and cheap to test. - Select a balanced set of 2-3 pocket stations that give about the right diameter with green 1100's as leads, and remove, in a balanced way all cutter/pockets that would overlap with the green leads. Then give it a go!

I've found the deep dish (reds) to be too agressive and too vulnerable to carbide chipping. Either way, generally, I get only one turn on each tooth.

Probably best to replace any poly-chain drive belts with V belts before trying. (Which imho should be done anyway)


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