# ropeshield



## TreeAce (Jun 25, 2012)

Anyone use this thing? 
Tree Stuff - RopeShield Installation Aid

It looks like it would work. Maybe
I was dead wooding a bunch of trees the other day and was setting lines for SRT and was getting pissed. I have noticed that tieing the throw line to a tight eye def helps but even then I was having trouble. Its enough to make me insane. If the line woulda set the first time I hit what appeared to be the perfect spot, I bet i woulda shaved 10-15 minutes per tree. So if it works I have no problem paying 50 bucks.


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## 2treeornot2tree (Jun 25, 2012)

You could probably make one for a whole lot less. About 20 mins and a lathe would be all you would need.


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## TreeAce (Jun 25, 2012)

I have no problem with the price if I knew it would work.


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## superjunior (Jun 25, 2012)

wonder if the backside of that thing might catch up if ya gotta do a little flipping? seems like a good idea tho


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## deevo (Jun 25, 2012)

TreeAce said:


> Anyone use this thing?
> Tree Stuff - RopeShield Installation Aid
> 
> It looks like it would work. Maybe
> I was dead wooding a bunch of trees the other day and was setting lines for SRT and was getting pissed. I have noticed that tieing the throw line to a tight eye def helps but even then I was having trouble. Its enough to make me insane. If the line woulda set the first time I hit what appeared to be the perfect spot, I bet i woulda shaved 10-15 minutes per tree. So if it works I have no problem paying 50 bucks.


He is a member here, Treepedo, I met him at the TCIA expo, good guy. Canadian as well!


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## mattfr12 (Jun 25, 2012)

Here's a full picture of it, it works pretty well. There is an internal weight that you remove after you shoot it. and you fish your 1/2 line through it the shield just keeps it from getting snagged. it does go through crotches a lot better than a standard throw weight. a tad on the pricey side tho.


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## imagineero (Jun 26, 2012)

Is your problem getting the throwbag stuck, or not being able to pull the rope back through a tight crotch? Or both? 

When pulling back through tight crotches, I tie the throw line onto my rope with a clove hitch about 3-4" from the end, then a half hitch about 1 1/2" from the end, and another half hitch right at the very end. If you take a minute to tension the half hitches and get the last one set right at the very end of the rope it goes a lot better. If that last half hitch is even 1/2" from the end it causes problems.

Shaun


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## TreeAce (Jun 26, 2012)

imagineero said:


> Is your problem getting the throwbag stuck, or not being able to pull the rope back through a tight crotch? Or both?
> 
> When pulling back through tight crotches, I tie the throw line onto my rope with a clove hitch about 3-4" from the end, then a half hitch about 1 1/2" from the end, and another half hitch right at the very end. If you take a minute to tension the half hitches and get the last one set right at the very end of the rope it goes a lot better. If that last half hitch is even 1/2" from the end it causes problems.
> 
> Shaun



The part thats killing me is getting the rope to come through. I tie the throw line to the rope exactly as you described. Also being sure to get that last half hitch right on the very end of the rope. Just seems like one sucker is enough to make it a huge PITA. I think I may give that thing a try.


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## mattfr12 (Jun 26, 2012)

TreeAce said:


> The part thats killing me is getting the rope to come through. I tie the throw line to the rope exactly as you described. Also being sure to get that last half hitch right on the very end of the rope. Just seems like one sucker is enough to make it a huge PITA. I think I may give that thing a try.



It works very well get the whole kit. That thing is like an ICBM the big shot will really throw it.


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?wi4nd0


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## TreeAce (Jun 26, 2012)

mattfr12 said:


> It works very well get the whole kit. That thing is like an ICBM the big shot will really throw it.
> 
> 
> ---
> I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?wi4nd0


I wasnt really planning on getting the whole shebang like you have but maybe? Does it richochet bad?


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## mattfr12 (Jun 26, 2012)

TreeAce said:


> I wasnt really planning on getting the whole shebang like you have but maybe? Does it richochet bad?



Ya it can bounce off of something. i wouldn't want to shoot it towards someones house it will definitely take out a window. It has some cool features watch his videos on YouTube.


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## imagineero (Jun 27, 2012)

There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously. 

The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit. 

Shaun


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## TreeAce (Jun 27, 2012)

imagineero said:


> There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously.
> 
> The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit.
> 
> Shaun


The second suggestion sounds interesting. So you tie the clove hitch to the end of the rope and leave the throw bag on the end of the throw line about a 1ft or so from the clove hitch? I think I understand. I will remember that one. thx


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## superjunior (Jun 27, 2012)

imagineero said:


> There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously.
> 
> The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit.
> 
> Shaun



I use that little trick too. A good little snap will often get the bag right over


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## mattfr12 (Jun 27, 2012)

Try the treepedo if your willing to dish out the $$$. It does do what the say. For the kind of green they cost it would be bad to loose one in a tree.


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?avu4qa


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## imagineero (Jun 28, 2012)

TreeAce said:


> The second suggestion sounds interesting. So you tie the clove hitch to the end of the rope and leave the throw bag on the end of the throw line about a 1ft or so from the clove hitch? I think I understand. I will remember that one. thx



I made a quick vid to illustrate the point. The distance from the end I use is about 3-4", and the length of throwline between the clove hitch and the throw weight depends on how high you are, and how heavy your bag is. For a 12 ounce and a low throw you only need about 4", high high up you're going to need a lot more distance otherwise you wont be able to swing the throwbag. When you get it right, the rope actually jumps over the crotch as you can see in the vid.

In the first example with success at about 1:41 (it takes me 2 goes to get it) I'm not touching the rope, you get the swing purely by manipulating the throwline. This works great on smooth bark trees. On rough/spongey bark trees with lots of friction you only get one flick. In the second example I've got the rope in one hand and the throw line in another. This was is a lot easier. Sorry about the crappy audio, my camera is pretty old.

[video=youtube_share;xoe5cpMC958]http://youtu.be/xoe5cpMC958[/video]


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## TreeAce (Jun 28, 2012)

imagineero said:


> I made a quick vid to illustrate the point. The distance from the end I use is about 3-4", and the length of throwline between the clove hitch and the throw weight depends on how high you are, and how heavy your bag is. For a 12 ounce and a low throw you only need about 4", high high up you're going to need a lot more distance otherwise you wont be able to swing the throwbag. When you get it right, the rope actually jumps over the crotch as you can see in the vid.
> 
> In the first example with success at about 1:41 (it takes me 2 goes to get it) I'm not touching the rope, you get the swing purely by manipulating the throwline. This works great on smooth bark trees. On rough/spongey bark trees with lots of friction you only get one flick. In the second example I've got the rope in one hand and the throw line in another. This was is a lot easier. Sorry about the crappy audio, my camera is pretty old.
> 
> [video=youtube_share;xoe5cpMC958]http://youtu.be/xoe5cpMC958[/video]


Thank you for taking the time to make the video. Its much appreciated. I am def gonna try that some time!


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## Slvrmple72 (Jun 29, 2012)

Plastic part from a tampon.....honest. Been using them for years. Always good for a joke too with the box in the truck.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## mattfr12 (Jun 29, 2012)

Slvrmple72 said:


> Plastic part from a tampon.....honest. Been using them for years. Always good for a joke too with the box in the truck.:hmm3grin2orange:



could help with a bloody nose to? like a swiss army knife multi tool. set your rope and plug any hole that needs plugged with it.


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## ssurveyor (Jun 30, 2012)

Here is a picture of a throw weight I made for myself out of an old plumb bob. Drilled a small hole straight through the bob, with a large hole for the rope end about 1/3 of the way through. I have the throw line knotted on either side of the bob, enough so that I can pile hitch to the end of the rope and pull it up snug into the bob as shown. It weighs 13 oz.


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## imagineero (Jun 30, 2012)

I hope you've got a good hard hat ;-)


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## arborjockey (Jul 1, 2012)

Aye where's Treepeedo he has a pic of one of those for his profile shot.


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## TreeAce (Jul 2, 2012)

I will be trying out my ropeshield tomorrow. Also gonna try out some dynaglide. I will let ya'll know how it goes.


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## TreeAce (Jul 11, 2012)

I think the ropeshield works pretty darn good. My only complaint is that I have a heck of a time feeding the throw line throw the tip and out the bottom. I woulda never had guessed that could be an issue. Is there a trick I am missing? I dont understand why the passage is like a narrow tube and not like a cone shaped cavity or something. As soon as the throwline gets alittle frayed its a beech to get through that hole. But once its set up i am sure its a big help


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## beastmaster (Jul 11, 2012)

I've been following this thread with interest. I hate it when I make the perfect shot or throw with the throwline, but the rope gets caught up in some thing. It seems to happen at least once a week. I've tried every trick to make it go throw some times. 
I like the concept of the end cone, but I think some kind of flexible material over the end would maybe do a better job?
I saw on ''you tube'', somewhere, they put a redhot nail throu the end of the line to make a small hole, then just threaded the throwline through it right at the tip. I've been meaning to give it a try.


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## imagineero (Jul 12, 2012)

TreeAce said:


> I think the ropeshield works pretty darn good. My only complaint is that I have a heck of a time feeding the throw line throw the tip and out the bottom. I woulda never had guessed that could be an issue. Is there a trick I am missing? I dont understand why the passage is like a narrow tube and not like a cone shaped cavity or something. As soon as the throwline gets alittle frayed its a beech to get through that hole. But once its set up i am sure its a big help



Somewhat in line with beastmaster's post, have a go at using heat. You see guys sometimes trying to melt the ends of their ropes with a lighter or similar. That's not going anywhere fast. The only way to cut synthetic cordage is with a hot rope knife. You can shell out some $$$ or just use what you've got. Grab an old xacto knife/razorblade or even an old kitchen knife. Get your rope ready. Heat your tool over your gas stove until it turns red. Now cut your rope with it. Use the blunt side - you're actually melting it rather than cutting it. Works great with ropes of all sizes, but you may have to reheat the knife 2 or 3 times when you're getting up to 3/4". leaves a perfect seared join with no loose fibres.

I cut a lot of my ropes on an angle - 45 degrees or so. Then I taper down the outside edges a little more using the side of the knife. Makes threading them through blocks that can't be opened real easy. You can use the side of a hot knife for maintenance on your ropes too. If you've got cut strands on your ropes or pole straps, use the side to sear them, then squash them with your finger. They wont fray. For your throwline, you can cut it on an angle, then tidy up the burr with the side of the knife. You'll love it.

Shaun


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## TreeAce (Jul 12, 2012)

imagineero said:


> Somewhat in line with beastmaster's post, have a go at using heat. You see guys sometimes trying to melt the ends of their ropes with a lighter or similar. That's not going anywhere fast. The only way to cut synthetic cordage is with a hot rope knife. You can shell out some $$$ or just use what you've got. Grab an old xacto knife/razorblade or even an old kitchen knife. Get your rope ready. Heat your tool over your gas stove until it turns red. Now cut your rope with it. Use the blunt side - you're actually melting it rather than cutting it. Works great with ropes of all sizes, but you may have to reheat the knife 2 or 3 times when you're getting up to 3/4". leaves a perfect seared join with no loose fibres.
> 
> I cut a lot of my ropes on an angle - 45 degrees or so. Then I taper down the outside edges a little more using the side of the knife. Makes threading them through blocks that can't be opened real easy. You can use the side of a hot knife for maintenance on your ropes too. If you've got cut strands on your ropes or pole straps, use the side to sear them, then squash them with your finger. They wont fray. For your throwline, you can cut it on an angle, then tidy up the burr with the side of the knife. You'll love it.
> 
> Shaun


cool. Thanks I will try that. I did notice that cutting the throw line made a clean end but only for a moment then it frayed. Burning the end with a lighter just made it mushroom. didnt matter if i burned right after cutting or not. the hot knife thing makes good sense.


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## Treepedo (Jul 13, 2012)

TreeAce said:


> I think the ropeshield works pretty darn good. My only complaint is that I have a heck of a time feeding the throw line throw the tip and out the bottom. I woulda never had guessed that could be an issue. Is there a trick I am missing? I dont understand why the passage is like a narrow tube and not like a cone shaped cavity or something. As soon as the throwline gets alittle frayed its a beech to get through that hole. But once its set up i am sure its a big help



I crazy glue the end of the throw line or wax it up with a crayon.
Crazy glue is nice cause it stiffens it up like the end of a shoelace and makes it easier to 
tie knots. A nice firm end to the throwline for passing around and through for your bowline is all 
that is missing.
Hope this helps!:msp_smile:


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## Treepedo (Jul 18, 2012)

arborjockey said:


> Aye where's Treepeedo he has a pic of one of those for his profile shot.



Sorry it has taken so long.

Here are few images to help make sense of it all.
View attachment 245484
View attachment 245485


RS will go, slip and slide in any direction :biggrinbounce2: You can even lube it up 
to penetrate the tightest of crotches(to a limit) or bypass other obstacles(flakes of bark, stub etc).

The RopeShield progressed to a full throw weight because
for me it just made sense to apply the RS advantages to a throw weight. Especially the retrieving
and isolating a TIP part.:msp_thumbup:

Heres a quick 3 minute vid. Sure is nice to see the snow again

RopeShield - YouTube

Thanks all for your interest.

Proudly independent! and Guaranteed for Life :msp_thumbup:


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## imagineero (Jul 19, 2012)

[video=youtube;y6U_Vk_KGIg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6U_Vk_KGIg[/video]


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## Treepedo (Jul 23, 2012)

beastmaster said:


> I've been following this thread with interest. I hate it when I make the perfect shot or throw with the throwline, but the rope gets caught up in some thing. It seems to happen at least once a week. I've tried every trick to make it go throw some times.
> I like the concept of the end cone, but I think some kind of flexible material over the end would maybe do a better job?
> I saw on ''you tube'', somewhere, they put a redhot nail throu the end of the line to make a small hole, then just threaded the throwline through it right at the tip. I've been meaning to give it a try.



Both ideas have worked for me in the past. 
Nothing is perfect but I wouldn't recommend the hole technique over any other becasue you need to get the hole as close to the tip of the rope as possible so there is less transition zone and swiveling that increase the size of the bump and that gives you less working room before it tears out. Placing the final half hitch or clove as close to the tip as possible with a a couple of rounds of tape will be the best to bump your rope past obtacles next to the RS.:msp_smile:

Eye on the end of your rope makes it all a bit easier but once again there is larger transition or bump/jam area.View attachment 245977


RopeShield is an improvement because it transitions from your throwline to the cone smoothly.
The bump or jam point is less than 2 to 3mm or the difference between the diameter of your throwline and the opening point of the nose cone.View attachment 245976


Best of luck!


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## Treepedo (Aug 10, 2012)

*New RopeArmor*

View attachment 248156


RopeArmor’s new “RopeKnight Light” 
Night or day this multi-purpose rope access throw weight device and system will illuminate. Made from transparent acrylic and contains a flashing LED for high visibility .
The “Light” is identical to the RopeKnight in design, form and function. A highly visible solution with LED lights and optimal geometric form allows for ease of movement for launching, isolating targets, positioning ropes, smooth over of knots and a pull handle at low level lighting/nighttime. Fly up and out of the throw ball dark ages. When tree work and infrastructure can’t wait for the sun to come up, you’ll be illuminated.


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## jimbo21 (Aug 10, 2012)

it look like a nice gadget, sure you can use a metal pencil... do it diy to try before!


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## Treepedo (Feb 4, 2013)

*Life is too short to throw an ugly bag.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=AzD6Ki4evZM&list=UUrryWlE1QulSV_gPHsBUh1Q

Cheers :msp_smile:


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## Treepedo (Feb 27, 2013)

TreeAce said:


> I think the ropeshield works pretty darn good. My only complaint is that I have a heck of a time feeding the throw line throw the tip and out the bottom. I woulda never had guessed that could be an issue. Is there a trick I am missing? I dont understand why the passage is like a narrow tube and not like a cone shaped cavity or something. As soon as the throwline gets alittle frayed its a beech to get through that hole. But once its set up i am sure its a big help



You can set this up "FASTattach" as a more permanent attachment. I am making one out of ss cable to see if it will help avoid limb wraps.
View attachment 281800

View attachment 281801

View attachment 281802


Here is the video showing both LONGgun Tech and FASTattach. 2 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQVwoAHSvt0&list=UUrryWlE1QulSV_gPHsBUh1Q&index=7

The narrow tube is so that it can't be collapsed for those hard impacts. 
Have to keep it tough cause it has LIFETiME Guarantee!


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## Pelorus (Feb 27, 2013)

Sacrificing the end of a tubular aluminum fid (with a suitable ID) might help a line negotiate a tight crotch. Cut a couple of inches off the end, drill a throw line sized hole through the point, and Bob's yer uncle. Maybe.
Certainly not as nice as the real McCoy, and a standard throwbag would have to be used for initial line placement. A 1 -1/4 Fid in current WesSpur catalog is something like $17, and converting it into a rope cone should only take 5 minutes.


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## Treepedo (Feb 27, 2013)

Pelorus said:


> Sacrificing the end of a tubular aluminum fid (with a suitable ID) might help a line negotiate a tight crotch. Cut a couple of inches off the end, drill a throw line sized hole through the point, and Bob's yer uncle. Maybe.
> Certainly not as nice as the real McCoy, and a standard throwbag would have to be used for initial line placement. A 1 -1/4 Fid in current WesSpur catalog is something like $17, and converting it into a rope cone should only take 5 minutes.



Could work for a few trick spots, but it is a wedge shape. Surveyor also suggested a Plumb bob and it also has a wedge shape.
Wedges get stuck and drives in hard into the crotch or the like and stays jammed or makes it more difficult to pull.

RopeShield is radiused like a rocket/train/missile/bullet/submarine/jet nose cone so it doesn't wedge. Maximum frictionless geomtry! It has a roundness that prevents it from getting jammed. The area that is in contact with a RopeKnight is always at a minimum because of the radius. Similar to why we use wheels on cars opposed to skis 

A wedge/friction area is always increasing as it penetrates. Like a felling wedge.

Secondly the RopeShield and RopeKnight work well at smoothing over and being near frictionless with its hard anodized hard aluminum( super hard ali).


I think you could have some luck with a wedge, you would be better off with out the wedge than with it imho. 

The wedge shape would not be much better than having a throw ball at lines end or staying with throwline to access rope connection knots..

There is a fair bit more to it than just bumping it over. We have it down to a science:.:glasses-nerdy: It is the radius with the ali hardness and anodizing plus all the machining. 
View attachment 281847

View attachment 281850

View attachment 281851

View attachment 281852

View attachment 281853



Cheers


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## Pelorus (Feb 27, 2013)

I have an aluminum fid of uniform dia in front of me, and do not see this "wedge shape" that you are describing, apart from the very last inch at the tip, which could be easily shaped into a blunter profile. The largest fid that I currently own is 3/4" / 18mm, with an internal dia smaller than 11.5mm. So, any experimentation down this road is in the future, but I'm willing to put $17 in jeopardy to undertake this rope cone experiment.

I think the RopeShield is an excellent, finely constructed product, and I'm not advocating against it's purchase, merely suggesting an alternative idea for better or worse.


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## 2treeornot2tree (Feb 27, 2013)

The scenaros in the video, looked to me, like a Weaver Neon Bullet High Performance Throw Weight would have pulled through also. The device you designed would also snag in a tight crotch. Make a video showing your design pulling threw a crotch, and a bag getting stuck. I might be sold then.


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## Treepedo (Feb 27, 2013)

Pelorus said:


> I have an aluminum fid of uniform dia in front of me, and do not see this "wedge shape" that you are describing, apart from the very last inch at the tip, which could be easily shaped into a blunter profile. The largest fid that I currently own is 3/4" / 18mm, with an internal dia smaller than 11.5mm. So, any experimentation down this road is in the future, but I'm willing to put $17 in jeopardy to undertake this rope cone experiment.
> 
> I think the RopeShield is an excellent, finely constructed product, and I'm not advocating against it's purchase, merely suggesting an alternative idea for better or worse.



Yah when we were sizing for the throw line to fit into the RopeShield and sizing for standard 1/2" rope and said rope with a splice we found the throwline will crack/split open the tip if the wall thickness is insufficient.
See what I mean. Not sure how many attempts with a 2.2 Dyneema weighted with approx 800lbs caused an unacceptable failure but it was within 1/2 dozen attempts. Like having a lead pencil break and the wood also breaks away because the acute angles. I have strong feeling that ali on the fid is soft> Might want to check its hardness before you sacrifice it and the time.

Just the same, 17 bucks and some time at the bench and you will have somethin that will pay for itself the 1st time you gotta get thru a jam up.
Best of Luck!


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## Treepedo (Feb 27, 2013)

2treeornot2tree said:


> The scenaros in the video, looked to me, like a Weaver Neon Bullet High Performance Throw Weight would have pulled through also. The device you designed would also snag in a tight crotch. Make a video showing your design pulling threw a crotch, and a bag getting stuck. I might be sold then.



There is a few good clips of the bag jamming and the RopeKnight/treepedo winning. In the sweet cherry and the pear tree. One of the reasons is it also levers up. So where a bags malleability conforms to the obstacle the RopeKnight/RopeShield does a roll/lever up and thru the crotch.
Similar to the way a ski meets a bump or rut or obstacle.
That is one of the main differences between a throw ball and RopeArmor.
Another analogy I like to make is it is far easier to skate on a hard edge metal than in your sock feat.
The effeciencies are in hard, smooth, frictionless metal and the radiussed cone shape.

Treepedo Movie 1 Best.wmv - YouTube
This is the original treepedo vids. Still like that name better but we had to change it for Europe and other rope access markets.
Cheers


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## Pelorus (Feb 27, 2013)

800 lb applied to a throw line is some serious testing!
I haven't given much consideration to the wall thickness and hardness/softness, but surely the sacrificial fid will be an upgrade from a plastic tampon applicator, and less potentially lethal than a plumb bob! If the sacrifice is in vain, I'll pillage the piggy bank for a RopeShield, with no regrets.

I used to own a yellow plastic skidding cone, and was amazed how well it stood up to some serious abuse.

Appreciate your professionalism, and that you have not become hostile and defensive. The "inventor" of another rigging device comes to mind. 

Cheers!


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## Treepedo (Mar 3, 2013)

2treeornot2tree said:


> The scenaros in the video, looked to me, like a Weaver Neon Bullet High Performance Throw Weight would have pulled through also. The device you designed would also snag in a tight crotch. Make a video showing your design pulling threw a crotch, and a bag getting stuck. I might be sold then.



Here is the original vids of that tight crotch and a few more.
I did my best to explain the major differences between the classic bag and a RopeKnight.

Please let me know if the visuals are good enough.
Last possible thing is to give a try. We do Guarantee it out performs a throw bag in
every way. In a way it is try before you buy.
1st shows the RopeKnight that is the full throw weight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFDpgHdgiQ0&list=UUrryWlE1QulSV_gPHsBUh1Q

2nd vid show the RopeShield
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6U_Vk_KGIg&list=FLrryWlE1QulSV_gPHsBUh1Q

Thanks for your time!
Cheers


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## Goose IBEW (Mar 5, 2013)

The Ropeshield looks like one more item to add to my buy list. In the mean time, I usually put a clove hitch at the very end of the line I'm pulling and wrap it with some white electrical tape. White tape because it keeps things cleaner, the black tape will leave black residue on the climbing line and throw line. 

I can see the Ropeshield doing a better job than some tape in real difficult situations but I have simply taped up the transition from the throw line to the climbing line and gotten myself out of a jam more than once.


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## Treepedo (Mar 9, 2013)

Tape works, used to buy it by the box.
Found another type with thicker vinyl, it worked a bit better. In the end
it was all too soft but did get me thru quite a few sticky situations.

RopeShield is smoother, hard, and frictionless and less likely to jam
and won't corrupt the way tape or plastics do.
Always a pain unravelling all that tape to, mb 20 or more wraps
Cheers


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## Treepedo (Apr 11, 2013)

*RopeKnight Duo*

I use this system mostly in tall Conifers and when the trees all vined up or with alot of messy unerstory, sprouts etc.

View attachment 289834


We have got the price down! $ 149.95 at TreeStuff.com

Tree Stuff - Rope Armor Access System

or RopeArmor Rope Access Tool [ROPEKNIGHT] - $165.00 : Atraes, Arborist and Height Safety Equipment Specialists

or Freeworker Fachhandel für Baumpflege und Seilklettertechnik


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## arborjockey (Apr 12, 2013)

*like everything new in this industry*

Waaaaaaay over priced. $ 45 is kinda high for something like that . But 160+ that's laughable. I'm ok with my "non green" " un ecofriendly" black jap wrap . 2" electrical tape . 

I can spin one of those out on a metal lathe for about $20.

I wanted a throw ball, 1 beaner , 1 hdt roller from sherrill . Those idiots wanted $67 in shipping. The guy said he could get it down to $55 for ground freight. Wtf?


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## Guran (Apr 12, 2013)

beastmaster said:


> I saw on ''you tube'', somewhere, they put a redhot nail throu the end of the line to make a small hole, then just threaded the throwline through it right at the tip. I've been meaning to give it a try.



Could be this one; Tree Climbing: Getting the Rope in the Tree - Rope Attachment - YouTube 
I have done this on my ropes that dont have a spliced eye.
Göran.


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## Treepedo (Apr 14, 2013)

I ahve done this as well but skip all the duct tape because it is just to malleable and creates a stopper plug, and eventually the cord tears thru the rope or the loops.

Still it is a fine technique but why use a Dead Blow hammer when the job calls for something with considerably more persuasion like a Maul.

Cone shape with a Hard smooth finish is the real winner to get thru those tight forks and little bits

View attachment 290304


Plus everything else it can do! 6 Tools in one device adds to getting you in the tree faster to get you home sooner to the ones you love.

View attachment 290305


Available at TreeStuff.com, Freeworker.com. Atreas.com


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