# How do I get into EAB Treatment/Prevention?



## corndogg (May 23, 2009)

Hi all. EAB has hit Minneasota and suprised me and many others. I've been asked to treat un infected ash trees to prevent infestation. I've read about Xytect mostly and it looks like a good place to start. 

Questions:

Xytect 2F or 75WSP?

Can I rig a lawn spray rig 300 gallon for soil injection use?

If not, what is the minimum equipment?

Pesticide license is required I imagine?

What other treatments are being used?

Any that last more than a year?

What's the best, cheapest place to get chemical?

One site has around a hundred ash, all in good condition from 4" to 20". I would treat all if were mine. They want to treat only half maybe to keep cost down. Seems foolish to me. Which would you treat? 

Thanks in advance, 
Jamie


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## Urban Forester (May 23, 2009)

I have no experience w/Xytect, so I can't help you there. I have however injected about 10,000 trees in 20 years w/everything from growth regulators and fruit reduction products to insecticides and fungicides. My experience w/EAB dates back to 1998 and I've logged about 2,500 Ash injections. I've used mostly imidicloprid as Arbor Jet's Ima-Jet (5%) soil injection (10%) Mauget Imicide (35%) and Arbor Systems wedgle (50%). I have found soil injection to be the least effective. I believe 3 factors play into that, 1-EAB hits first in the 3/4" branches, I don't believe soil injection by itself gets a high enough PPM into those branches for control. 2- Most of the time soil injection units go too deep, below the primary roots that are capable of moving the product. Remember this is not about "translocation", as much as it is systemic absorbtion (soil injections, I believe should be done no deeper than 3"). 3- Imidicloprid binds VERY readily to the soil keeping it from the tree. I would seriously look into trunk injection w/Imidicloprid or Emamectin Benzoate. Also important note: A sprayer used for lawn care MAY have had herbicide in it. If it did, it needs to cleaned out w/a product that breaks down the fatty acids in herbicide like Lesco-sol. As far as which trees to treat, the biggest mistake that has been made w/EAB is spreading resources to thin, YOU CAN'T SAVE EVERYTHING. Concentrate on high value Ash and use ALL your efforts in those trees keeping the PPM as high in the tree as you can. You will find that this borer is like no other, it's population will literally explode w/o any natural predators. We have a 115 year old Ash that gets the following treatment: Trunk injected in late May w/Imidicloprid, sprayed w/Onyx (Bifenthrin w/a bark penatrant) in mid June around flight time of the adults (the females feed on leaves for 7 days before laying eggs) and then fertilized in the fall. We run a focused program for high value Ash and have well over 200 alive and well in "ground zero" of the infestation. Good luck, you're going to need it.


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## ATH (May 23, 2009)

corndogg said:


> Hi all. EAB has hit Minneasota and suprised me and many others. I've been asked to treat un infected ash trees to prevent infestation. I've read about Xytect mostly and it looks like a good place to start.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> ...


Lot of options out there. Read enough to separate fact from opinion.... For example, the facts in my reply are:
**That imidacloprid soil drench (at the base of the tree) and tree-age have similar performance rates in a wide range of studies (you can find a single study here and a single study there that shows one is better than another...)
**I assume the state requirements are similar accross the country.

The rest is opinion so take that for whatever it is worth. I'd be happy to clarify anything if it doesn't make sense...


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## hokiewheeler (May 25, 2009)

We use imidacloprid soil drench in EAB treatment. The company I work for started doing this about 2 years ago and OSU has recognized this method as a treatment. Most of our clients are on a treatment program and are getting foliar insecticide treatments as well.


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## garthpro (Jun 6, 2009)

*Eficacy of treatments?*

I am in dublin oh and have about 30 trees on 2 acres. some very large, some not. 
I am wondering if anyone in my region has experience with one treatment over another. I have been reading every study I can find and none seem to point to one being better than another, except that the product of the one who funds the study is usually found to be a little better, go figure!
Anyone with hands on experience? I can't lose these bigboys. I have years of experience with chemicals, growing up on a large crop farm in western ohio, so I plan to treat myself.

garth


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