# Bagworm injections and sprayers for bagworms



## Dan F (Aug 10, 2003)

At work, we are currently exploring options for control of next year's crop of bagworms. We have a limited hieght (about 15-20 feet, depending on wind) we can effectively spray with the equipment we have. Without investing $5k on a J. Bean sprayer, we would like to be able to treat large trees. So right now we are leaning toward experimenting with injections.

I know Sherrills sells injections that will treat bagworms (at least that is what I've been told; the catalog is on the way), and I've been told they treat them fairly effectively (specifically the Tree Tech Injections, dendrex solution). We have also (briefly) discussed Bt as an option, and I'm wondering if it is available as an injection, or if it would even be feasible as an injection? Has anyone tried the Tree Tech injections, and if so, what were your results?

Short of cutting down the affected trees (which is NOT an option), has anyone tried anything else succesfully? I.e. a 3 point sprayer on a tractor, a skid mounted sprayer similiar to a Bean sprayer but cheaper, a juiced up backpack sprayer, an old fire department pumper truck (not really an option either ), anything? We are needing to get spray to a 50-60 foot minimum hieght....

We have seen sprayers locally and in catalogs that *look* like they should spray to the hieght we need them to, but have no way of telling for sure. What kind of pressures should they be devoloping, what kind of pump should they have (diaphram, piston, roller?), and is there a minimum horsepower the engine should have?


Dan


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## John Paul Sanborn (Aug 10, 2003)

Preassure si only one factor, but it would need to be several hundred pounds.

Cyntrifical rigs wont get you that.

For 60 ft you need a high volume setup with good recirculation bypass so you can maintain good volume for the duration of the spray. Weaker systems you need to pulse the trigger and that wastes time

You also need a good solid column of mix to avoid a lot of drift and to get the good fat drops that coat fast. Waste not, treat more.

so that means you need a high volume pump with a desent little engine to run it, or PTO power.

Next is a big hose so you gan get high flow with that pressuer. Just like the hydraulics in a michine, high pressuer with little lines does not do big work.

Lastly is the right gun with intercahngeble orffices, and a wrench to change tips out between tree sections. I used to carry several guns on a quick connect hose end so I couls spray several different hights. JD9C for the low stuff, so I could fan at low pressuer and 2 tall tree guns with and some wider tips for them I could interchange on the taller trees.

So 12 hp 35 gpm pump with 3/4 inch hose and some the guns.

Ball vaulve and quick connect on the hose ends so that you can change guns and adjust pressure at the tree.

Adjuvents help reduce drift too.


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## Dan F (Aug 10, 2003)

Thanks John, that gives me a little better idea of what to be looking for!

Any thoughts/experiences on the injections?


Dan


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## John Paul Sanborn (Aug 12, 2003)

IMO any basal injection should be a last ditch effort to save a tree, after all you are wounding it to save it. 

And that said, most uptake & distribution is increased if the injection (acro or micro) is doen on the root flair vs trunk or basal area. With macro work, I've even gone out into the FOR's to do Arbotech 3X macro's.

Even with 3 year separation (drilling every 4th year) you cannot get good closure and will be getting decay coalessing around the multiple rewoundings. Even thought they say roots compartmentalize better.

Some of these new pressure gun injectors look prommising, though I've seen pictures of bark separation after Wedgel use. pretty ugly.

My preferance is soil injections, though once again there are problems with uptake in conifers with most products.


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