# Chain sharpening cost



## jcappe (Oct 15, 2010)

I know alot on here sharpen their own chain but what is a fair price to you to have your chain sharpened by someone else. Grinder or hand filed? Thanks.


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## woodchucker (Oct 15, 2010)

I would think about 5 dollars or less. I often sharpen my chain 2-3 a day so I could never afford to pay someone.


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## Ductape (Oct 15, 2010)

Locally, one shop charged $6 (until the owner died). The second charged $12 (until they went out of business). Buying a chain grinder and learning to sharpen my own was one of the best thing I ever did.


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## fordss (Oct 15, 2010)

Here in se Pa some as low as $4 most are arond $6-$8


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## o8f150 (Oct 15, 2010)

6-10 around here,,thats why i bought a grinder


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## vwboomer (Oct 15, 2010)

I've only taken chains in once, but the fella charges $4 each. And has quite a list of other things he will sharped from axes to carbide saw blades. 

I generally will touch em up myself a couple times, then take em in to get them trued


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## dmlefevre (Oct 15, 2010)

Just paid 7 for a pro to do it, just bought the files to finally learn how to do it!


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## Tofurkey (Oct 15, 2010)

I hand sharpen my own most of the time but occasionally take them in to be ground and trued up. One place near me charged $7 and over heated my chain--every tooth was blue. Needles to say that was the first and last chain they will do for me. Another shop nearby charges $4 and does an excellent job.


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## o8f150 (Oct 15, 2010)

Tofurkey said:


> I hand sharpen my own most of the time but occasionally take them in to be ground and trued up. One place near me charged $7 and over heated my chain--every tooth was blue. Needles to say that was the first and last chain they will do for me. Another shop nearby charges $4 and does an excellent job.



thats another reason i do my own now,,the guy that used to do mine would see how much of the tooth he could grind off


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## MNfarmer (Oct 15, 2010)

The one and only time I had my chains sharpened at a shop they ruined them. I brought in four and when I got them back they wouldn't cut at all, brought them back in so they could be redone. Got them back and again wouldn't cut a thing. Taught myself to file my own and now I touch them up every other tank full of gas. To me it's a lot easier to touch them up a few times a day than to be switching chains all the time. I sometimes go a year without taking the chain off my saw, I'm just cutting firewood though. I forget what the guy charged then, but I noticed at the local Stihl dealer it was 6 or 7 last year and more if they took the chain off the saw. Good luck!


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## atlarge54 (Oct 15, 2010)

If I couldn't sharpen my own chains I wouldn't be able to afford to cut wood. Get a file and touch 'em up every couple tanks. It's easier than you think. Dull chain is a waste of time, gas and equipment. Like the best race car with bad tires will never win----a super saw and a dull chain ain't worth a chit.


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## MNGuns (Oct 15, 2010)

If you asked nice, and perhaps brought a beer I would sharpen your chain for free so long as I had the right file. For two beers I would show you how to file yours own chain. For three beers, you will know how to sharpen your own chain AND have an ear full about how hand filing is the only way to go...


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## biggenius29 (Oct 15, 2010)

I charge $4 for anything under 16" and $5 for everything else.


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## sunfish (Oct 15, 2010)

Learn to sharpen with a file...


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## TreePointer (Oct 15, 2010)

A 16" chain costs anywhere from $13-20. Pay $4-7 per chain to sharpen, and that's up to 50% of the cost of a new chain!

When I thought of it that way, it was a no-brainer that I was going to learn how to sharpen my own chains.

When I start burning rolls of Benjamins for heat, I'll get Jeeves to sharpen my chains.


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## logbutcher (Oct 15, 2010)

MNGuns said:


> If you asked nice, and perhaps brought a beer I would sharpen your chain for free so long as I had the right file. For two beers I would show you how to file yours own chain. For three beers, you will know how to sharpen your own chain AND have an ear full about how hand filing is the only way to go...



Oh yes, the *" Will sharpen for beer."* 

PFERD PFERD PFERD PFERD PFERD........................

Use a chainsaw, cut and harvest in woodlands, learn to hand sharpen in the field. It's a no-brainer, just takes a little practice, a stump vise, a good hand sharpening device, and patience at first. Most can hand sharpen chains under 20" in less time than a grinder in the shop.


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## Nuzzy (Oct 16, 2010)

With as easy as hand filing becomes, there's no way I'd send chains out to be sharpened any more. Back in the day (which for me is only a decade ago since I'm not yet 30), I'd rotate a couple chains through camping season and then drop them off to get sharpened. After getting tired of that mess, I forced myself to learn how to file well! Now, no one sees my chains but me; there's just no reason. Especially with the guides on the market ( I just use the Stihl file guide), hand filing can make every bit as sharp a chain as factory, if not more in some cases. It just takes paying attention to the details and making your muscles learn the movements. 

Once you get descent with it, you'll wonder why anyone would pay anything to have their chains sharpened :greenchainsaw:opcorn:


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## turnkey4099 (Oct 16, 2010)

I handfile but pay a pro to grind about 2 times per chain life just to true them up. I will sometimes have them ground just to get the rakers taken down - I hate doing rakers.

Cost?
$7 30 miles away - very good job.
$4 4 miles away in town and overheat the chain so you can't file it - once only.
$10 1/2 mile down the road - overpriced and only got suckered in the one time. Did cut well after though.

Harry K


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## Ambull (Oct 16, 2010)

I did it once and had really bad luck with it. Pretty much every problem mentioned. Not sharp, overheated, etc. So I got a grinder and do them all myself.


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## Junkrunner (Oct 16, 2010)

I charge 5.00 up-to 20" and treat it like its my own. in town they're charging 10.00 and all I hear about them is complaints. Blued, didn't do the drags, missed teeth. I don't mind doing chains, but everybody that operates saws, should learn how to sharpen by hand. If you're the one thats gotta sharpenin it, you'll learn real quick to keep out of the dirt. I know this can't ALWAYS be avoided, but you'll definetly pay closer attention to what and where you're cuttin.:greenchainsaw:


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## jcappe (Oct 16, 2010)

Thanks guys, just trying to get an idea what to charge. We have been charging $8 which is what the previous shop in town was charging but I've been getting some resistance when people ask what we charge. I think I'll do anything under 20" to $6 and see what happens. We still have plenty of chains to sharpen at the $8. Just trying to figure out how to get the grinder to pay for itself. Although it may be part of the business that you don't make it back real quick, hopefully it brings in new customers. There are some people that want them hand filed which is fine with me I can do it just as fast in most cases if the chain isn't to bad. Plus I like doing it by hand more than the grinder. Thanks for the replies, you guys are great. Will throw some rep around when it lets me.


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## blades (Oct 16, 2010)

I charge $6 up to a 24" bar, $8-10 after that. Each chain is cleaned in the media blaster with ground up corn cob as a medium. Chains are then ground just enough to clean up any damage both side equal. then the depth gauges are checked and lowered if needed.


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## logbutcher (Oct 16, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> I handfile but pay a pro to grind about 2 times per chain life just to true them up. *I will sometimes have them ground just to get the rakers taken down - I hate doing rakers.*Cost?
> $7 30 miles away - very good job.
> $4 4 miles away in town and overheat the chain so you can't file it - once only.
> $10 1/2 mile down the road - overpriced and only got suckered in the one time. Did cut well after though.
> ...



Dearest Harry:

PFERD
PS Does the rakers with each pass. 
PPS Sold at Baileys


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## logbutcher (Oct 16, 2010)

Junkrunner said:


> I charge 5.00 up-to 20" and treat it like its my own. in town they're charging 10.00 and all I hear about them is complaints. Blued, didn't do the drags, missed teeth. I don't mind doing chains, TE]
> 
> *but everybody that operates saws, should learn how to sharpen by hand. If you're the one thats gotta sharpenin it, you'll learn real quick to keep out of the dirt. I know this can't ALWAYS be avoided, but you'll definetly pay closer attention to what and where you're cuttin.:greenchainsaw:[/QUO*
> 
> ...


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## iowawoodcutter (Oct 16, 2010)

Did not read the whole thread and don't know if anyone else said this, but be careful having someone else sharpen your chains. Some will take 50% or more of your chain off and not even do the depth gauges.


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## iowawoodcutter (Oct 16, 2010)

jcappe said:


> I know alot on here sharpen their own chain but what is a fair price to you to have your chain sharpened by someone else. Grinder or hand filed? Thanks.



Just noticed you are from SE Iowa, if you are anywhere near the QCA, I would be glad to give you a quick lesson, for free or a couple of beers...either one is fine.


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## logbutcher (Oct 16, 2010)

iowawoodcutter said:


> Just noticed you are from SE Iowa, if you are anywhere near the QCA, I would be glad to give you a quick lesson, for free or a couple of beers...either one is fine.



Gees, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, another 
*"Will sharpen for Beer"*:monkey:
#2


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## Somesawguy (Oct 16, 2010)

iowawoodcutter said:


> Did not read the whole thread and don't know if anyone else said this, but be careful having someone else sharpen your chains. Some will take 50% or more of your chain off and not even do the depth gauges.



That's my dads biggest complaints about the local dealer, They really chew the chain up. They ground mine down quite a bit when I had them even it up.


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## Rassmo (Oct 16, 2010)

Just got the new PFERD filing guide from Bailey's. Gotta say it's GREAT! Easy to get just the right angle and depth and with this new version there's no need to flip the files when switching from left teeth to right teeth. A little expensive for a guide but man does it do a good job. Much sharper than the local shop used to get them when I took em in to get ground. They charged $5 to sharpen and took quite a bit off the teeth so the guide will pay for itself very quickly. Here's the one I bought. It also keeps the rakers at just the right depth with a seperate built in file.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17304&catID=


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## builder1101 (Oct 17, 2010)

i bought the attachment for my dremel, had to get used to it versus the hand file, man, im serious, it was worth the money..

about 2 mins flat i can touch up a chain....


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## KMB (Oct 17, 2010)

turnkey4099 said:


> $7 30 miles away - very good job.
> $4 4 miles away in town and overheat the chain so you can't file it - once only.
> $10 1/2 mile down the road - overpriced and only got suckered in the one time. Did cut well after though.



I also hand file my own chains, but there are times when I need to get a chain done with a grinder (rock damage  or to true up the angles). I have yet to find a good 'local' (within 30 miles) shop who I am fully satisfied with. I have some .325" chain to do and not sure who to go to. My concern is that they'll use the same wheel that they us on 3/8" chain.

Kevin


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## logbutcher (Oct 17, 2010)

KMB said:


> I also hand file my own chains, but there are times when I need to get a chain done with a grinder (rock damage  or to true up the angles). I have yet to find a good 'local' (within 30 miles) shop who I am fully satisfied with. I have some .325" chain to do and not sure who to go to. My concern is that they'll use the same wheel that they us on 3/8" chain.Kevin



It's rare Kevin, even with a rock gouged tooth or two, that the chain needs more than +/- 10 strokes using a hand filing guide ( my bias is PFERD  ). Not the case however for PNW long bars over 28". Butt, we in the northeast don't need bars much over 20".

In the way past when my chains were brought a local pro shop, the chains invariably came back 'burnt' and/or ground down too far. Many dealers give the sharpening to the new kids. The cost of a few dealer sharpenings will pay for one of the excellent hand filing guides available. 

And, change files often. They wear and clog quickly.

JMNSHO


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## woodman44 (Oct 17, 2010)

What I do and recommend if you do not sharpen your own chain is to buy 10 chains. Go though 9 of them and take them all to be sharpened at once. Key is to make sure they use a machine so that they can put the factory angle back on and do not use a round file. Round file works great but factory angles will hold sharp 5 times longer if you keep it out of the dirt. Also you should be able to get a better price by taking them in together.


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## sawkiller (Oct 18, 2010)

woodman44 said:


> What I do and recommend if you do not sharpen your own chain is to buy 10 chains. Go though 9 of them and take them all to be sharpened at once. Key is to make sure they use a machine so that they can put the factory angle back on and do not use a round file. Round file works great but factory angles will hold sharp 5 times longer if you keep it out of the dirt. Also you should be able to get a better price by taking them in together.



Keep reading my friend! Unless you are using some specialty chain then a file will work just fine and the angles are correct if done properly! I routinely get a chain that cuts better than new when I am finished with filing it. As for longevity of the edge that has more to do with what I am cutting and how clean I keep it but a new chain's edge doesn't last any longer. I simply use a round file properly sized for the chain and swap files often.

As for grinding if they blued your chain then your chain will have 5 times less edge life for sure! I have not seen anyone file aggressively enough to overheat a chain yet.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 18, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Dearest Harry:
> 
> PFERD
> PS Does the rakers with each pass.
> PPS Sold at Baileys



:agree2:

I've just started sharpening my own. I'm probably lousy at it. I did one Saturday, and I thoiught it looked pretty bad. Fired up the saw and tackled a big oak round.

Cut like a hot knife through butter. I was *really* surprised.


Pferd. Takes care of the rakers. The new version does left and right sides with no fussing. Gonna get one for my new saw.


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## 7sleeper (Oct 18, 2010)

woodman44 said:


> What I do and recommend if you do not sharpen your own chain is to buy 10 chains. Go though 9 of them and take them all to be sharpened at once. *Key is to make sure they use a machine so that they can put the factory angle back on and do not use a round file. Round file works great but factory angles will hold sharp 5 times longer *if you keep it out of the dirt.....



Please rethink what you have written. 

After some training with a round file, or if you prefer sqaure ground chain, with a sqaure file, you will never look back. A grinder is very good if you have larger amounts of chains to file or if you have had enemy(stones,nails,etc.) contact. But for the average homeowner and woodcutter, I find a chaingrinder a unecessary luxery. A good file and guide would be enough.

7


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## banshee67 (Oct 18, 2010)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> :agree2:
> 
> I've just started sharpening my own. I'm probably lousy at it. I did one Saturday, and I thoiught it looked pretty bad. Fired up the saw and tackled a big oak round.
> 
> ...



i love the pfred filing guide... i think its hilarious how they came out with a new one that "saves you the time" of having to pop the file and handle out and switch sides to do other side of cutters... i mean cmon.. what does it take to unsnap the top and bottom and flip the file/handle around... 5.. maybe 6 seconds then another 5 for the depth gauge file. i guess if i had the choice between both id buy the new one, but it just cameout so ill stick with the "old fashion" one 
one great little file guide though!


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## woodman44 (Oct 18, 2010)

I know one can hand sharpen as well if you have the time and it will cut as well or better than a machine sharpen. It will not how ever hold the edge as long as the factory angle which a machine can do.




sawkiller said:


> Keep reading my friend! Unless you are using some specialty chain then a file will work just fine and the angles are correct if done properly! I routinely get a chain that cuts better than new when I am finished with filing it. As for longevity of the edge that has more to do with what I am cutting and how clean I keep it but a new chain's edge doesn't last any longer. I simply use a round file properly sized for the chain and swap files often.
> 
> As for grinding if they blued your chain then your chain will have 5 times less edge life for sure! I have not seen anyone file aggressively enough to overheat a chain yet.


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## ryan_marine (Oct 18, 2010)

I have a grinder and hand files. If you want them ground it is $5 and just leave the chain. If you want a hand filed then $7 and leave the saw. I do the sharpning in the evening after I am done cutting for the day. I have wheels that will do the smallest of chains all the way up to harvester chains. I bought my grinder on CL from a guy that was retireing. He gave me all of his wheels. Best purchace I ever made. 

Ray


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## 7sleeper (Oct 19, 2010)

woodman44 said:


> I know one can hand sharpen as well if you have the time and it will cut as well or better than a machine sharpen. It will not how ever hold the edge as long as the factory angle which a machine can do.



I meant no offence. Are you "undercutting" the cutter too much with the file and thus making a super sharp edge that won't hold to long? That might be the problem. I haven't had the impression so far that my handfiled chains stay less long sharp. Maybe someone else has any ideas.

7


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## sbhooper (Oct 20, 2010)

It amazes me that people will take their expensive chains to someone HOPING that they can run a grinder correctly. Hand sharpening is so easy and fast that it is crazy not to do it. For the average guy, a grinder is an unnecessary expense. 

I sharpen my chain when I stop to gas up. I have a c-clamp fixed to a board that makes a portable vise. By the time that I stop to gas up, I am ready for a break anyway. I can sharpen the chain on my 16-inch 260 about as fast as you could change to another chain. My chains leave the saw when they are worn out or other maintenance is required. I get a lot of use from a chain. 

Most people that use grinders are going to wear out a chain far faster than a guy with a file and will at least burn them and ruin the temper.


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## John R (Oct 20, 2010)

o8f150 said:


> thats another reason i do my own now,,the guy that used to do mine would see how much of the tooth he could grind off



The guy at the hardware store used to do the same thing to me, I bought my own grinder, now I do my own and my friends for $3.00 just to cover the cost of the wheels.
In the defense of the guy at the hardware store, he did sell chains.


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## woodchucker (Oct 21, 2010)

Perhaps it is more a question if the person can effectively hand file or not. Some people can't drill 90 degrees to a surface, so the same must be true that some people can't operate a hand file effectively. Hand filing is the most expedient and cost effective method. If you can't file well, buy a chain grinder, if you can't operate a chain grinder then you probably shouldn't be using a saw.


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## logbutcher (Oct 21, 2010)

woodchucker said:


> Perhaps it is more a question if the person can effectively hand file or not. Some people can't drill 90 degrees to a surface, so the same must be true that some people can't operate a hand file effectively. Hand filing is the most expedient and cost effective method. If you can't file well, buy a chain grinder, if you can't operate a chain grinder then you probably shouldn't be using a saw.



You, Mr. Woodchuck are getting into opinionated philosophy. 
*So, class, wood ( get it ?) the above statement apply to procreation ?*

Sharpening is not ordinance, brain surgery, recon, or politics. With simple training, trial and error, follow the witness line on the top of the tooth. File at a prescribed angle set by the manufacturer with the proper file size. Stroke straight with no pressure until the tooth edge reflects no light. (The raker will come next in class boys and girls. ) 

There are diagrams, manuals, YouTubes, ArboristSite instructions up the kazoo (wazoo for Midwesterners) for sharpening. Get a old or worn chain to try on. Or, when you get a new chain, "air sharpen" ( Pat Pending ) it ( like air guitar ) to know the correct specs.

It is easy. Just practice. Don't listen to the Knows.:monkey:


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## eric_271 (Oct 21, 2010)

o8f150 said:


> thats another reason i do my own now,,the guy that used to do mine would see how much of the tooth he could grind off



Same here. I learned how to file and never looked back.


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## 1harlowr (Oct 22, 2010)

I hand file pretty well. Don't take my chains any where to be sharpened. 

Is it just me that thinks some on here have a very high opinion of themselves because they file as opposed to those that don't??? :monkey:


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## logbutcher (Oct 22, 2010)

1harlowr said:


> I hand file pretty well. Don't take my chains any where to be sharpened.
> 
> Is it just me that thinks some on here have a very high opinion of themselves because they file as opposed to those that don't??? :monkey:



I do, because I am.....have a "very high opinion of (ourself)".
And, why not ? Haven't most of us done the deeds to bring ourselves to this exaulted position ?

I hand file, therefore I am. Want to join ? :monkey:


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## woodchucker (Oct 22, 2010)

You, Mr. Woodchuck are getting into opinionated philosophy. 
*So, class, wood ( get it ?) the above statement apply to procreation ?*

You got me

I should have been more specific. If you can't do something yourself because of ability, the next step is to pay for someone to do it for you. There is the point of efficiency, if you only cut 2-3 times a year you don't have to sharpen right away and paying to have your chains sharpen might be the easiest thing to do. "I can't hang drywall or mud very well so I pay someone to do it for me, even though I could get better at it with practice"


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## Dan_IN_MN (Oct 22, 2010)

I hand file.....however, I do want to get a grinder to get the angle and tooth length back. 

I've found out that I like using this file guide: *Husqvarna file guide*

Question(s) for the guys that sharpen chains at shops....

I too have noticed that a lot of the tooth would be ground away some times. Is this because the person running the grinder sets it that deap so they are sure to get even the shortest tooth?

Do shops make any money sharpening chains? 


This would be the "ideal" grinder: :greenchainsaw:

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## John R (Oct 23, 2010)

MNGuns said:


> If you asked nice, and perhaps brought a beer I would sharpen your chain for free so long as I had the right file. For two beers I would show you how to file yours own chain. For three beers, you will know how to sharpen your own chain AND have an ear full about how hand filing is the only way to go...



And for 5 or 6 beers, you'll ruin his chain. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## mule1947 (Aug 24, 2018)

I was just looking for a median price to charge for sharpening. Most of y’all have the right idea. Do it yourself. All the ones that I do, I do by hand and they can be shaved with and never turn blue (I’m 70 and slowing down in my old age)


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## blades (Aug 24, 2018)

I will grind the teeth to the worst one all the same, I use a caliper to get both sides equal. There almost always is more than one snagle tooth per side. I also pay particular attention to how far back the corner is worn -grinding to just behind that. I am a commercial shop. At the present time there is a bucket not to far from me with apx 60 chains in it for sharpening- no way am I going to hand file that many chains. i also get Block saw chains in (.404 FC) these loops are 7+ feet long. I f i were to do all these by hand I would go broke as well as having a very bad case of carpal tunnel.


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## sbhooper (Aug 26, 2018)

mule1947 said:


> I was just looking for a median price to charge for sharpening. Most of y’all have the right idea. Do it yourself. All the ones that I do, I do by hand and they can be shaved with and never turn blue (I’m 70 and slowing down in my old age)



It may be satisfying to sharpen a chain to that fine edge, but that degree of sharpness does not last very long. Shaving sharp equals thin edge.


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## homemade (Aug 26, 2018)

I charge $5 for friends and let them cut with it first. If there happy, then pay up. If not then don’t pay but hold it against me. Sharpening also includes depth gauge adjustment.


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## president (Aug 26, 2018)

KMB said:


> I also hand file my own chains, but there are times when I need to get a chain done with a grinder (rock damage  or to true up the angles). I have yet to find a good 'local' (within 30 miles) shop who I am fully satisfied with. I have some .325" chain to do and not sure who to go to. My concern is that they'll use the same wheel that they us on 3/8" chain.
> 
> Kevin


If ground on a stihl usg ,the wheel is the same for both pitches,
and produces an incredibly sharp result with minimal material removed


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## muddstopper (Aug 27, 2018)

I bought a sthil 2in1 and gave my grinder away. I dont keep extra chains laying around, I keep extra saws. If the saw gets dull, I just swap it out for a sharp one. When I get home I drag out the file and touch up each saw. I have a 42cc pouland I trim around the yard with, it never sees dirt, a 365 special with a 20in bar and a 272 with a 24in bar, a 55 with a 18in bar and half a dozen 55's with 20 in bars. I'll take 3 or 4 saws with me when I cut wood, and sometimes I will dulll them all.


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## Johnny Yooper (Aug 27, 2018)

MNGuns said:


> If you asked nice, and perhaps brought a beer I would sharpen your chain for free so long as I had the right file. For two beers I would show you how to file yours own chain. For three beers, you will know how to sharpen your own chain AND have an ear full about how hand filing is the only way to go...


I wish you lived next door, you'd make a damn nice neighbor. Not that I need sharpening instructions - my dad taught me years ago when he let me run the saw for the first time as a teen and it wasn't long before I hit the dirt and he saw me struggling with a dull chain and had me shut the saw off and then proceeded to show me how to sharpen on the tailgate of a '71 Chevy K10; that was around 1976 and have been hand filing ever since.


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## sbhooper (Aug 31, 2018)

muddstopper said:


> I bought a sthil 2in1 and gave my grinder away. I dont keep extra chains laying around, I keep extra saws. If the saw gets dull, I just swap it out for a sharp one. When I get home I drag out the file and touch up each saw. I have a 42cc pouland I trim around the yard with, it never sees dirt, a 365 special with a 20in bar and a 272 le-o-plaa 24in bar, a 55 with a 18in bar and half a dozen 55's with 20 in bars. I'll take 3 or 4 saws with me when I cut wood, and sometimes I will dulll them all.



So, I take it that you like the 2/1? I have considered them a couple times, but still have a file-o-plate and a standard file holder to use.


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## muddstopper (Aug 31, 2018)

sbhooper said:


> So, I take it that you like the 2/1? I have considered them a couple times, but still have a file-o-plate and a standard file holder to use.


Yes, I do like the 2in1. I tried the husky version, but didnt like having to change file configuration to swap sides. With the sthil, you just flip the file. Now to be honest about the grinder give away. I gave it to a buddy and still have full access to it if I need it. My buddy does stump grinding and was bringing me 20-30 chains at a time to sharpen for him. I decided it was easier to give him the grinder than it was for me to spend hours sharpening his chains. I Havent missed having the grinder in my shop and the 2in1 will take care of a rocked chain as well as the grinder. Not that I hit a lot of rocks


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## MNGuns (Aug 31, 2018)

Johnny Yooper said:


> I wish you lived next door, you'd make a damn nice neighbor. Not that I need sharpening instructions - my dad taught me years ago when he let me run the saw for the first time as a teen and it wasn't long before I hit the dirt and he saw me struggling with a dull chain and had me shut the saw off and then proceeded to show me how to sharpen on the tailgate of a '71 Chevy K10; that was around 1976 and have been hand filing ever since.



Due the increased cost of health care, fuel, etc. I no longer accept beer as currency. Please adjust payment to reflect the new bourbon standard. Thank you.


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## Johnny Yooper (Aug 31, 2018)

MNGuns said:


> Due the increased cost of health care, fuel, etc. I no longer accept beer as currency. Please adjust payment to reflect the new bourbon standard. Thank you.


that's weird 'cause I just got home from grocery shopping, and it included a big bottle of Mr. Beam


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## FredBear (Sep 1, 2018)

I took 2 chins to the shop once. That was enough for me to learn that they are in the business of selling chains not sharpening them.


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