# raising the BSM bed sections on the LT-15



## Ted J (Feb 28, 2010)

Hi all,
I'm moving the LT15 next to the cover that I built recently and adding the two extra bed sections that I got about a month ago. It will be sitting on a 28 foot slab right along side the cover, and I want to raise the mill up off the slab about a foot to make it a little easier to clean under and around. In the current position, I had so much bark and debris up under the bed sections it amounted to enough crap to fill up the FEL of the tractor. 

Anyone got any pics of their milll that is raised off the ground? I'm trying to get a few more different ideas to make a choice on how I want to do this.

Thanks,
Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Feb 28, 2010)

Ted J said:


> Hi all,
> I'm moving the LT15 next to the cover that I built recently and adding the two extra bed sections that I got about a month ago. It will be sitting on a 28 foot slab right along side the cover, and I want to raise the mill up off the slab about a foot to make it a little easier to clean under and around. In the current position, I had so much bark and debris up under the bed sections it amounted to enough crap to fill up the FEL of the tractor.
> 
> Anyone got any pics of their milll that is raised off the ground? I'm trying to get a few more different ideas to make a choice on how I want to do this.
> ...


Ted,

I think raising it is a good idea for a couple reasons, and thought about it, but want to have support along the rails. I think I'm going to use some beams along the side of the mill...I haven't fully decided yet, but going to the yard tomorrow as it's finally supposed to be clear for a day...(only to rain on Monday or Tuesday...)

Lay a stem wall slab for the length of your mill and put a beam down each side for the rails. I'd like to hear of a better way, but short of cement beams, wood seems to be as good as any. Could replace it easily also.

If you want to raise it 12", what about running a 6x12 under each side of your bed? Would give it support along the rails? Unless you want to pour cement piers, but that would seem like a lot of work.


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## Ted J (Feb 28, 2010)

Alan,
I was thinking of laying it out like a train track. Putting an 6x6x36 every 4 feet for 24 feet like railroad ties, using an anchor screw into the concrete at each one with some threaded rod and nuts to keep them in place.

Then lay the "track" with a line of 6x6's under the levelers, and after the leveling is done add a screw in the pre drilled holes that are already on the leveler feet. That would make for a total of 16 levelers srewed to the track, and raising the BSM at least a foot off the ground.

I also planned on adding some non wood blocks under the bottom treated 6x6's to keep them from rotting and/or ground contact.

Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Feb 28, 2010)

Ted J said:


> Alan,
> I was thinking of laying it out like a train track. Putting an 6x6x36 every 4 feet for 24 feet like railroad ties, using an anchor screw into the concrete at each one with some threaded rod and nuts to keep them in place.
> 
> Then lay the "track" with a line of 6x6's under the levelers, and after the leveling is done add a screw in the pre drilled holes that are already on the leveler feet. That would make for a total of 16 levelers srewed to the track, and raising the BSM at least a foot off the ground.
> ...


Ted,

That sounds like it would work fine.

I have to get some bolts and nuts for mine as I have feet/tabs sticking out but no levelers. The previous owner had large bolts with a nut on each side to adjust it, one on the bottom to adjust and the top to lock it down. I'm gonna go look at it soon.


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## Ted J (Feb 28, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> Ted,
> 
> That sounds like it would work fine.
> 
> I have to get some bolts and nuts for mine as I have feet/tabs sticking out but no levelers. The previous owner had large bolts with a nut on each side to adjust it, one on the bottom to adjust and the top to lock it down. I'm gonna go look at it soon.



I went out earlier this morning and took some measurements and this is what I came up with:


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 1, 2010)

Ted,

I like your design, it looks more thought out than what I have been thinking. My cross members are not flush with the sides, so there is a slight section where the cross members are raised, so not sure I will benefit from the cross ties as much as you will. Nice design though.

I was able to find some 3/4" grade 8 bolts that will use for the levelers, and will be talking to the excavator to see if they might be able to put a 4'x20' cement slab so that I could lay some timbers along the rails, so I can adjust the entire bed with the leveling bolts.

I like your design, and the way you alternate the scarf joints on the railroad sections looks nice. Why not make them one piece though? I know, I know, length of log is important...lol I think I can get by with 2 pieces as I have some 16 1/2 foot long cants, I'm just gonna split a couple down to 4", they are about 8x8. I'll lay 2 beams of 4x8 along each rail. At least that is my plan.


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## Ted J (Mar 1, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> Ted,
> 
> I like your design, it looks more thought out than what I have been thinking. My cross members are not flush with the sides, so there is a slight section where the cross members are raised, so not sure I will benefit from the cross ties as much as you will. Nice design though.
> 
> ...



Yesterday I went out and popped some chalk lines on the slab and I was energetic enough that I had decided to add two anchor bolts per tie... as my wife convinced me two was better than one.....

I decided to just start on one row and marked them, got out the hammer drill and 5/8 hammer concrete bit... two inches deep, first hole was a breeze. The remaining four holes were slow going got about an inch in each :censored:.... Did I mention that this slab was poured around 15 years ago as a dog kennel floor? Does concrete get harder as it ages longer?.......


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## jdrum (Mar 1, 2010)

t t & ted the cross rails make sense when it comes time to clean out between the rails. if your sides are on the pad and close to the ground you have to shovel the bark and sawdust out, 8 or 10' of clearance makes it easier to shove the trash outside where its easier to deal with. and if you are adding levelers you don't need the side timbers, the only place your track is being supported is at the levelers, just make sure your levelers are located where you log bunks are to support the weight of the logs, then all the tracks have to carry is the weight of the saw head. if you do go ahead with the lond timbers make your lap joints on the vertical (up and down) to retain the strenght of the thickness of your timber. 

jim


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## crashagn (Mar 1, 2010)

Does concrete get harder as it ages longer?....... 


Yes.. it does. Used to work concrete.. poured walls, footings, basements, garages,sidewalks, silo pads, etc.. If someone wanted a volunter to go break out 180ft of sidewalk that was poured 2 weeks ago... by hand- I was all on it. If they were needing a volunter to break out a old barn footing or something else +40yrs old.. then its either a jack hammer on the skidloader... or iam instantly goin home sick. Make sure you r hammer drill bit aint getting hot.. If needbe get a soaker hose out.


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## Ted J (Mar 1, 2010)

crashagn said:


> Does concrete get harder as it ages longer?.......
> 
> 
> Yes.. it does. Used to work concrete.. poured walls, footings, basements, garages,sidewalks, silo pads, etc.. If someone wanted a volunter to go break out 180ft of sidewalk that was poured 2 weeks ago... by hand- I was all on it. If they were needing a volunter to break out a old barn footing or something else +40yrs old.. then its either a jack hammer on the skidloader... or iam instantly goin home sick. Make sure you r hammer drill bit aint getting hot.. If needbe get a soaker hose out.



I hear ya.... and since I don't do alot of concrete work, when it's wet or after it's dry. I did't know any better but I learnt today that ya gotta let the hammer drill do all the work with no pressure.

I kept hitting an aggregate stone or two which really slowed things down a bunch. So as I was told by a friend at work who experienced the same lesson to use a star drill chisel to break it up a little then go back to the hammer drill bit.

I'm gonna need another couple of bits though, I heat treated the one I got real good....  oh well.

Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 2, 2010)

Ted,

We need some pics buddy!

:bringit:


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## gemniii (Mar 2, 2010)

Ted J said:


> as my wife convinced me two was better than one.....


Two wives are better than one?
She actually told you that?


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## Ted J (Mar 2, 2010)

gemniii said:


> Two wives are better than one?
> She actually told you that?



YES... as long as your not married to either one and your girlfriend doesn't mind.


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## Ted J (Mar 2, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> Ted,
> 
> We need some pics buddy!
> 
> :bringit:



I'll see what I can do 'bout that....


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 7, 2010)

Ted J said:


> I'll see what I can do 'bout that....


I know that you'll update us when you have something to update with. Hope your sawmill is in place and going at it.


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## Ted J (Mar 7, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> I know that you'll update us when you have something to update with. Hope your sawmill is in place and going at it.



Alan,
... at times it seems nothing is going to be easy. I got the anchors set and had to quit soon afterwards as it was going to get dark soon. I opted to only set one anchor instead of two for each "tie" as it was a pain drilling the holes. 

No it didn't take all day to finish drilling the holes, but the honey-do's needed to get done. Started out to fertilize the lawn by loading the broadcaster with two bags.... then unloading it to fix the broadcaster.
Finally got around to putting a new battery in the Wheel Horse... tire was flat had to get the portable compressor to the barn to air it up, brought the compressor back to the shop, then go back to the shop again for gas.... It was going to be one of those days I guess, hopefully today will be better... OH, it's supposed to rain today...... OH, that's why I fertilized!!!!



later,
Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 7, 2010)

Ted J said:


> Alan,
> ... at times it seems nothing is going to be easy. I got the anchors set and had to quit soon afterwards as it was going to get dark soon. I opted to only set one anchor instead of two for each "tie" as it was a pain drilling the holes.
> 
> No it didn't take all day to finish drilling the holes, but the honey-do's needed to get done. Started out to fertilize the lawn by loading the broadcaster with two bags.... then unloading it to fix the broadcaster.
> Finally got around to putting a new battery in the Wheel Horse... tire was flat had to get the portable compressor to the barn to air it up, brought the compressor back to the shop, then go back to the shop again for gas.... It was going to be one of those days I guess, hopefully today will be better... OH, it's supposed to rain today...... OH, that's why I fertilized!!!!


Ted,

This rain won't let up on us out here...still cloudy, but hasn't rained in a couple days...I saw a few days of dry weather, hoping to see a log home raising this week possibly. I hope it stays dry, I need to get my yard sorted out, and the more it rains the more time I need to wait...


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## Ted J (Mar 7, 2010)

Well, I only had time to go out and took a few pictures before we left to run some errands... hope to finish it by next weekend.

The picture is of the slab where I'm moving the LT15. It'll be going right down the middle of the slab, which will give me about 4 feet of slab on either side. Looking at the picture, logs will be loaded from the left side which is a part of the driveway. The slab size is 12' x 28' and has a slope to the right of about 2 1/2 inches.

*Now I have to decide which side will be the operator side any suggestions or comments?*
As an FYI, the operator is to the left side of the log while cutting, same side as the sawdust chute. (I'm planning on a sawdust bin catcher when time permits, well... that's the plan anyway.....!)

The picture is looking North and the prevailing winds are from the southeast and south with an average speed of 8mph, except in January when we get the high pressures out of the North and we get those northerly winds.

Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 7, 2010)

Ted J said:


> Well, I only had time to go out and took a few pictures before we left to run some errands... hope to finish it by next weekend.


Nice space that will be handy. Do you plan to cover the carriage also?


Ted J said:


> The picture is of the slab where I'm moving the LT15. It'll be going right down the middle of the slab, which will give me about 4 feet of slab on either side. Looking at the picture, logs will be loaded from the left side which is a part of the driveway. The slab size is 12' x 28' and has a slope to the right of about 2 1/2 inches.


Nice slab, gives you area to work on the log if you need to, say cut a knot off or something like that.


Ted J said:


> *Now I have to decide which side will be the operator side any suggestions or comments?*
> As an FYI, the operator is to the left side of the log while cutting, same side as the sawdust chute. (I'm planning on a sawdust bin catcher when time permits, well... that's the plan anyway.....!)
> 
> The picture is looking North and the prevailing winds are from the southeast and south with an average speed of 8mph, except in January when we get the high pressures out of the North and we get those northerly winds.


Well, you want the small end at the carriage end, so it will seem you want the carriage closes to the camera, if the wind comes out of the southeast and your facing north, otherwise if you flip it around the dust is going to be blowing back at you. Not sure if you want a log deck on the left side or not, but if you need to walk there, the answer is no. I think the cement will make good of having the sawdust blown there as it will sweep up easily. Can shovel the sawdust off the cement also.


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## bobsreturn (Mar 12, 2010)

looks an ideal slab for a mill . i would put it together ,and re arrange as i dont seem to get it right the first time . would be great with a roof over , cheers Bob


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## Ted J (Mar 12, 2010)

bobsreturn said:


> looks an ideal slab for a mill . i would put it together ,and re arrange as i dont seem to get it right the first time . would be great with a roof over , cheers Bob



The Original plan was to put the mill where the tractor is sitting in the last posted pictures. Then when I build out the other half of the cover over the slab I would move the mill over to that side.

I had started to lay it out under the cover and was going to set some posts to start the frame for it when I decided I didn't want to move this twice. I also remembered I have a 60 amp service line that goes to a trailer hook-up over by where the mill currently sits. It is buried about 2 foot or was it 4 foot just past that slab  about 18 inches deep... about where the tractor sits in that picture. I'll just put it on the slab and add a 14x30 tarp over the slab for now... 

Like they say, PLANS CHANGE! 

Speaking of plans I better get out there and do something.

Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 12, 2010)

Ted J said:


> I had started to lay it out under the cover and was going to set some posts to start the frame for it when I decided I didn't want to move this twice. I also remembered I have a 60 amp service line that goes to a trailer hook-up over by where the mill currently sits. It is buried about 2 foot or was it 4 foot just past that slab  about 18 inches deep... about where the tractor sits in that picture. I'll just put it on the slab and add a 14x30 tarp over the slab for now...


Ted,

My thought is that your better extending the cover out and continuing with the slope that is there. The reason is that some folks do find it difficult to get a forklift in if the roof is too low, I've seen more than one situation like that.

By extending the roof and continuing the current slope, it will open up the side the sawmill will be sitting on more, so that if in the future you do need to use a forklift (i.e., lift more weight than your tractor will lift), you will be able to access the edge of the concrete slab. Hope that makes sense the way I describe it. There was a guy on the east coast (possibly NC) with a LumberMate that ran into this problem and added a chain lift to move the logs to the side so he could get them on the forklift, it looked like a PITA to be honest, and I think he might have abandoned it since.

Yep, The WoodButcher is the guy, here's a pic of his mill, and even in this case the height is pretty high to access the sawmill bed, just that some forklifts require more than others.







EDIT: My forklift has what is known as Free-Lift, so that the triple mast will only extend up when it needs to and has a low height by default when it is all the way down. Again, not all forklifts were designed equal in this regard...Food for thought!


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## Ted J (Mar 12, 2010)

As far as extending / building the rest of the cover it will have to wait. There are soooo many other things that need to get done first. In the meantime a full length tarp over it will do fine for now...

But I did do something today....















And since the bed section was right there I moved it up to get a general idea. I didn't level it for the picture, but you get the idea!






Later,
Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 13, 2010)

Ted J said:


> As far as extending / building the rest of the cover it will have to wait. There are soooo many other things that need to get done first. In the meantime a full length tarp over it will do fine for now...


That'll work for the time being.


Ted J said:


> But I did do something today....


Good progress! Starting to look good.

Finally we got a break in the weather, the forecast is for no rain for the next 10 days. I'm gonna cut down the big ponderosa pine cant I have, into shelving tomorrow, for my office.

I think I can get about 6-7 8/4 boards, 16.5' long.


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## Ted J (Mar 13, 2010)

...UPDATED PICS FROM TODAY:


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 14, 2010)

Ted J said:


> ...UPDATED PICS FROM TODAY:


That is one lifting sling there Ted! lol

Looks good, how long is your bed now with the extensions?

EDIT: I think it must be 13.5 feet + 12 (25.5') unless it's 4 x 6' sections? It looks bigger to me, but what do I know...

I tossed mine on some 3x3s today and cut a few 8/4 15"x16.5' shelves, or at least I plan to use it as shelving. I forgot the camera but took some on my cell phone, and strugling to get them sent to my email...if I figure it out I'll post pics, or get some tomorrow. My setup will be nice once I can figure out the yard/forklift.

I think I can get 3 more shelves out of the cant I started cutting. It's blue stained ponerosa pine. It looks kinda cool...I was trying to give them a bit more than 2"...they are pretty beefy at 16.5 feet long. I might cut them in half.


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## Ted J (Mar 14, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> That is one lifting sling there Ted! lol
> 
> Looks good, how long is your bed now with the extensions?
> 
> ...



I wanted to make sure the bed section didn't twist, and picked up level... and it did on the first try. Kinda surprised me after looking at the sling configuration I wrapped that sucker in!!!! 

Each bed section is 6'-8" long... you better do the math... I'm going to bed. It's been a long day counting the other things I did also...

Later,
Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Mar 14, 2010)

Ted J said:


> I wanted to make sure the bed section didn't twist, and picked up level... and it did on the first try. Kinda surprised me after looking at the sling configuration I wrapped that sucker in!!!!
> 
> Each bed section is 6'-8" long... you better do the math... I'm going to bed. It's been a long day counting the other things I did also...
> 
> ...


26.66 feet, less a few feet for the carriage I guess. Your a few feet shorter. I can cut a 27' log on my 30' bed.

Seems like the majority of bandmills are 20 feet or less. I think the extra length is valuable. I want another 10, that would let me get a 37 foot log. That would be a good log for my yard, but even I think I can handle a 40 foot log in my small yard. Even so, I'm close to 32 feet, which the long sides of my log home are. I bet a 40 log is pretty tough to move around, length wise, just to balance it. I know that there's quite a difference between 28 feet and 32 feet, 4 feet makes quite a difference. I'm sure another 8 feet would be even that much more!


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## bobsreturn (Mar 14, 2010)

looks good what species are the logs near the slab? could be a nice slab or two there , cheers fron tropical australia . bob


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## Ted J (Mar 14, 2010)

bobsreturn said:


> looks good what species are the logs near the slab? could be a nice slab or two there , cheers fron tropical australia . bob



That is a large oak that was out in our side pasture that was taken down.


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## Ted J (Apr 13, 2010)

Well, finally got the bed sections leveled out and the head unit put on, just got to set some screws into the leveling feet to help anchor it down.

Next, I have to build a log ramp with a winch.

Later,
Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Apr 14, 2010)

Ted J said:


> Well, finally got the bed sections leveled out and the head unit put on, just got to set some screws into the leveling feet to help anchor it down.


Lookin' good Ted!

I just got some leveling feet made up for me. 8" of all thread on a 3"x3" 1/4" thick plate.


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## DRB (Apr 14, 2010)

Nice set up. 


It was this thread that got me thinking to put 6x6's under my CSM. Here they are buried in sawdust already.

I was able to get 6x6x24' PT posts for $84 a piece and they were actually straight.


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## Ted J (Apr 14, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> Lookin' good Ted!
> 
> I just got some leveling feet made up for me. 8" of all thread on a 3"x3" 1/4" thick plate.



Looks good Alan, do you have enough, and what's your spacing going to be?

Ted


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## Ted J (Apr 14, 2010)

DRB said:


> Nice set up.
> 
> 
> It was this thread that got me thinking to put 6x6's under my CSM. Here they are buried in sawdust already.
> ...



A few minutes with the blower and I'll be good to go now.

Ted


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## TraditionalTool (Apr 14, 2010)

Ted J said:


> Looks good Alan, do you have enough, and what's your spacing going to be?
> 
> Ted


I have a dozen of them, there are 10 holes on each side at 3' between centers, kinda-sorta. I'm just planning to use 6 on each side, over 30' (total length of the bed).

This will be enough, IMO.

How much space are between your leveling feet? How long is the bed?


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## Ted J (Apr 14, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> I have a dozen of them, there are 10 holes on each side at 3' between centers, kinda-sorta. I'm just planning to use 6 on each side, over 30' (total length of the bed).
> 
> This will be enough, IMO.
> 
> How much space are between your leveling feet? How long is the bed?



Total length of the bed is 26'-10", 4 sections at 6'-8 1/2" each, and each section has four levelers about 12 to 18 inches from the ends.


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## TraditionalTool (Apr 15, 2010)

Ted J said:


> Total length of the bed is 26'-10", 4 sections at 6'-8 1/2" each, and each section has four levelers about 12 to 18 inches from the ends.


Ted,

I think mine will be similar, you have 16 levelers but need 4 for each section. My feet will be spaced about 5 - 6 feet apart.

I was going to order 20 of them, which I have the number of feet/tabs for, but then figure no sense in just ordering more as I probably didn't need all of them.


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## Ted J (May 4, 2010)

I finally had a little amount of time to do something on the mill, installed the power feed unit that I bought since I purchased the mill. I haven't cut any wood yet with it as it was getting late Sunday when I was finishing the install. Overall, it tracks smooth and it has the variable speed control. The only thing to make it easier than having to use the old crank is to add a chair on a track also.... 

Ted


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## Andrew96 (May 4, 2010)

Ted J said:


> I finally had a little amount of time to do something on the mill, installed the power feed unit that I bought since I purchased the mill. I haven't cut any wood yet with it as it was getting late Sunday when I was finishing the install. Overall, it tracks smooth and it has the variable speed control. The only thing to make it easier than having to use the old crank is to add a chair on a track also....
> 
> Ted



If not a chair, at least a drink holder and some place to put your glasses. I would imagine you might need a quick splash during your cut as you won't have much else to do but watch now. Nice setup.


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## TraditionalTool (May 4, 2010)

I will be curious to hear how the power feed works on the LT15. Seems one of the so called "experts" around here was jumping up and down claiming how you will have no gains with a power feed on such a mill, but I'm not buying into that...that same "expert" sold their sawmill, and went out of the milling business...go figure...

Please do report how it works.

I think it will give a more consistent cut, you should be able to dial the speed in for the wood your cutting.


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## Andrew96 (May 5, 2010)

TraditionalTool said:


> Seems one of the so called "experts" around here was jumping up and down claiming how you will have no gains with a power feed on such a mill, but I'm not buying into that...that same "expert" sold their sawmill, and went out of the milling business...go figure...



OK man...I guess I have to tell you....as a friend. It's getting a little old. 

I don't consider anyone here an expert, more like a bunch of people sharing an interest doing their best to help someone else out. I don't know why the smoke went out of business and sold off some equipment...who cares? He still has an opinion..and can express it. I'll decide for myself if his opinion has merit. I _was_ thinking you are very knowledgeable and learning many things along the way, sharing your knowledge...don't feel you need to put down everyone else...or even one guy you disagree with, just to give _your_ opinion merit. I'll respect your opinion more if it came without yet another put down. It's not becoming. 
'Be the expert with expertise, not by discounting others'.


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## twoclones (Jan 12, 2012)

I'd also like to hear a report on how the power feed is working for you.


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## MotorSeven (Jan 26, 2012)

Ted,

Why do you need a log ramp and winch? Put a set of pallet forks on that Mahindra and that is all you will ever need. I have a Kioti 40 horse that I load all my logs with(also have aLT15 with 27' of track). Load them, back off a couple of feet, mill them and re stack on the forks, drive to where they are getting loaded or stacked and drop them, grab another log and go back to the mill. 
For really big logs use the FEL/forks to turn them. Wrap a chain around the log and lift very gently while backing up. It takes a few times to get good at it, but it is easier than it sounds.

26'x28" Hemlock(rafters for my log house):




Turning a big Hemlock with a borrowed Mahindra(Kioti blew a head gasket):




To get those 4,000 lb logs on the mill, I had to drag them next to it, roll them close, then pick up one end at a time and set it on the mill with the forks.


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## MotorSeven (Jan 26, 2012)

Loading a"normal" sized log:


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## Ted J (Jan 28, 2012)

Haven't seen this thread in a while but that's okay.
The report on the power feeder, I like it. Especially when returning the head back to the cutting position.
starting off I was having a problem with it but realized it was the rope that I had put on it. When I went to the two extra bed sections I needed a longer rope of course, and that blue rope I put on there was fine as long as the head was free wheeling back and forth. As soon as there was tension from trying to cut a log it just wouldn't track smooth.

The rope was the problem, it was a double braided core rope I got at the big box store in 50 foot length, and they come in all sorts of preety colors, I'm sure you've seen them. It seemed to bunch up going one way or the other and start to slip and sometimes bind up.... I'm going on memory here. I replaced it with a 3/8" braided hollow core rope I got over at wally world for about $4, and it's been working fine since.


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## Ted J (Jan 28, 2012)

MotorSeven said:


> Ted,
> 
> Why do you need a log ramp and winch? Put a set of pallet forks on that Mahindra and that is all you will ever need. I have a Kioti 40 horse that I load all my logs with(also have aLT15 with 27' of track). Load them, back off a couple of feet, mill them and re stack on the forks, drive to where they are getting loaded or stacked and drop them, grab another log and go back to the mill.
> For really big logs use the FEL/forks to turn them. Wrap a chain around the log and lift very gently while backing up. It takes a few times to get good at it, but it is easier than it sounds.
> ...



Motorseven, since I raised the mill up a couple feet it has been easier on my back and the cleaning under the mill is a breeze... I use the gas blower, works great when I do decide to clean. I get alot of leaves because we have alot of oak trees on the property and you know leaves, they get everywhere. 
I did build a short log ramp, around 8 foot long and I can park a spare log on it while I'm milling, it just can't be too wide if I want to get the head by it, and yes most of the logs I can just use the tractor to lift it to the deck. It's limited though because it only a 25HP tractor & the FEL has a limited weight.
Ted


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## MotorSeven (Jan 29, 2012)

Cool, it looks like you have knocked the new off that mill. As for the tractor size, you know the answer to that one eh?.......Bigger Tractor:msp_thumbup:


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## Ted J (Jan 30, 2012)

I could have used a bigger tractor 3 weeks ago. A friend was building a horse arena on his property and had 20+ trees, 24 inch dia x 24 foot long that he had to get cut down and his neighbor offered to deliver for a fee.... but no way to offload the trailer. I was willing to pick up three or four at a time over 6 or 9 weekends with my trailer, that has the 2 ton rolling winch down the middle, but he needed them gone that weekend.
Working 60 hours a week, especially with an 2 1/2 hour drive time per day, time is precious. I still have about 10 logs I haven't milled yet waiting to be cut. The drought was especially rough on a number of trees this year.
Later,
Ted


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