# Who makes the best bar?



## Skywalker (Jan 17, 2008)

Does anyone make a better bar than Stihl. I am having lots of problems with the bars on our bigger saws and was wondering if we're just being too hard on them or if we can remedy the problem with a better bar. Anything 24" and up seems to need replaced every couple of weeks. Any ideas? Thanks


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## TDunk (Jan 17, 2008)

Whats going bad with them? Stihl makes a good bar, no doubt about that. I have Oregon bars from 18" to 32" and have never had any probs. with them. I use good oil, keep the sprocket greased and they usually last until and act-of-god bends them. I've heard Cannon and Woodsman Pro are the best you can get, though i can't vouch for that.


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## Mikecutstrees (Jan 17, 2008)

my vote goes with cannon their bars are great!


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## Cedarkerf (Jan 17, 2008)

If you got problems with Stihl only cannon makes an equal or better bar. Are you running correct pitch and gage for the bar and chain. Have ran 28" Stihl bars for years no problems what so ever.


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## Skywalker (Jan 18, 2008)

Thanks for the insight. We run everything to specs as far as I know, I guess I'll double check. What usually happens is this. I put on a new bar and it handles all the smaller wood fine. But within a couple of hours of getting in to big stuff I can't do anything to make a straight cut. Today I was cutting up a maple log that was probably 5' across in some spots. I had a 32" bar on a 660I'd start in on a side and the end of the bar would tale off to the right, like it was twisted or something. It was impossible to come in from the other side of the log and match up my second cut to my first one so I really had to hack up the log just to get it bucked. I was using a brand new chain (until I hit a 1/2" lag in the middle of the tree) so I know it wasn't that. I think I'll have to try a Cannon.


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## hornett22 (Jan 18, 2008)

*Stihl makes a great bar.*

i use mostly huskies so i run GBs or husky (oregon) with no problems.


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## gavin (Jan 18, 2008)

lots of the fallers on the west coast are using tsumura bars. they're real light and i'm told they hold up real good. friends said the only down side is its riskier to bend the bar to flip the chain back on when it skips off, which isn't a huge deal.


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## windthrown (Jan 18, 2008)

Best bars I have run are GB Pro Top and Titanium bars. Give 'em a look.


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## Mikecutstrees (Jan 18, 2008)

BArs I have used from stihl cut nice and straight. I doubt your problem will be fixed by getting a new bar. Unless yours is bent or worn unevenly. If it's a new chain I doubt its that. I have had workers who cant cut straight because they don't steer the cut. On small cuts they have no problem but on larger cuts they are all crooked. I explian to them that they can't twist the saw the whole time they cut they have to keep it going straight. My 056 couldn't cut a straight line on some big willow. I checked the bar and the groove was just worn out. New bar.... cuts like a laser now. So maybe you don't need an expensive bar.... although the longer cannons arn't too much more. Just my 2 cents worth....


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## OLD CHIPMONK (Jan 18, 2008)

Close-outs from Bailey's online store. About half the price of other new bars !


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## hornett22 (Jan 18, 2008)

*i heard the tsumura bars are great but...............*

the 6 pin sprockets don't last more than a week.you can replace it with a 4 pin but seems like it should come with it to begin with.


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## Themadd1 (Jan 18, 2008)

Last bar I used really sucked... I think it got burred quick and I never got it back in tune. I bought a new bar, both husqvarna, and it has worked fine. It all depends IMO on the operator. If you are pushing through the wood instead of letting the saw do the work it is alot harder to cut through properly.


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## ePhoenix (Jan 18, 2008)

About 90%+ of the time for me when a longer bar isn't cutting straight, it's the teeth that need to be sharpened correctly. There are 2 angles that need to be angled correctly, but there is something else many don't quite get and that's the depth of the cut made in the tooth. I try to get all 3 equations correctly and then those long bar cutting quirks go away. On a few occasions it was a bent bar, then even so the saw still cut fair in comparing using a chain that had teeth that needed to be sharpened correctly.

Since you say the problem exists only after a few hours of cutting smaller brush, maybe another fix is to tighten the chain slightly as a lose chain is more vulnerable to not cutting straight when there is side torque applied as the operator is cutting. As others have listed, letting the saw cut instead of directing helps. You can steer a cut too, but then not as well, if at all, when the chain is loose.

Bent bar is another more obvious thing to check. You may also need to true up the bar's levelness where the chain rides on. Don't know the price of the tool, but recall it's fairly cheap; $23 or so?

Good luck on solving that problem. Would be nice to hear later when you get the riddle solved.

ePhoenix


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## Freakingstang (Jan 18, 2008)

hornett22 said:


> the 6 pin sprockets don't last more than a week.you can replace it with a 4 pin but seems like it should come with it to begin with.



when I ran 058 guage chain I ran total super bars made by Tsumara. They are one of the better bars I have ran imo. I never had a problem with the tips, although I don't know which tip they had. I did a lot of plunge cuts, and that is were the weaker tips seem to fail, at least for me.

I liked them becuase they looked cool, even after lots of use.


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## juststumps (Jan 18, 2008)

Skywalker said:


> Thanks for the insight. We run everything to specs as far as I know, I guess I'll double check. What usually happens is this. I put on a new bar and it handles all the smaller wood fine. But within a couple of hours of getting in to big stuff I can't do anything to make a straight cut. Today I was cutting up a maple log that was probably 5' across in some spots. I had a 32" bar on a 660I'd start in on a side and the end of the bar would tale off to the right, like it was twisted or something. It was impossible to come in from the other side of the log and match up my second cut to my first one so I really had to hack up the log just to get it bucked. I was using a brand new chain (until I hit a 1/2" lag in the middle of the tree) so I know it wasn't that. I think I'll have to try a Cannon.



i don't think its a bar issue.....sounds like cork screwing....( i find myself doing it from time to time,, using a bar smaller than the wood... ) more of an operator error.....basicly,, starting your cut,, then moving the saw around the wood,,,using the tip as a pivot... instead of following the tip thru the wood... if your not perfectly level, front to back,, right to left,, you'll cut in a spiral....


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## Skywalker (Jan 18, 2008)

I'll be testing theories all day tommorow. Let you all know how I make out. Thanks again. :greenchainsaw:


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## undercut (Jan 18, 2008)

*chain sharpness*

I bet it is other factors aside from bar quality. Bars do get screwy over time especially under stumping flush cuts if you don;t balance and guide it well. I agree with the chain sharpness. keep your bar squared and burr free. keep your chain sharp. some times i will flip a bar touch it up sharpen the chain and then cut some thick clean logs and pull the tip into the wood, digging in with the dog side then pulling the saw back while cutting so the tip is buried. i repeat this process. if the saw pulls back with ease you usually have it straight. if it is hard to pull back (holding up a little) there is a chance there is a bend. I know it might look funny but i notice it seems to get it tracking nice with this method. Ring any bells for any one else?

are you running one or two dogs on the big saws? the reason i ask is if your running one and letting the saw pull in hard on just one dog it can give your cut a little twist. if you pull out of the cut a bit balance and guide your saw, feel your cut, then use your dog(s), pull out feel it balance and guide, back to dogs repeat process. If you try this when your flushing especially i think you will notice a difference over time. Balance and feel where you bar is going. I think it is chain sharpness, then cutting technique, then bar maintenance in this case.


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## Brushwacker (Jan 18, 2008)

Skywalker said:


> Thanks for the insight. We run everything to specs as far as I know, I guess I'll double check. What usually happens is this. I put on a new bar and it handles all the smaller wood fine. But within a couple of hours of getting in to big stuff I can't do anything to make a straight cut. Today I was cutting up a maple log that was probably 5' across in some spots. I had a 32" bar on a 660I'd start in on a side and the end of the bar would tale off to the right, like it was twisted or something. It was impossible to come in from the other side of the log and match up my second cut to my first one so I really had to hack up the log just to get it bucked. I was using a brand new chain (until I hit a 1/2" lag in the middle of the tree) so I know it wasn't that. I think I'll have to try a Cannon.



It sounds to me like your new chain may be hitting a little of this and that here and there. It doesn't take much to make it cut crooked. It takes care and practice to keep the chain sharp while using it. It will get dulled sometime still and often one side of the chain the cutters remain a little sharper then the other and it will cut crooked.


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## undercut (Jan 18, 2008)

*second this*



Mikecutstrees said:


> BArs I have used from stihl cut nice and straight. I doubt your problem will be fixed by getting a new bar. Unless yours is bent or worn unevenly. If it's a new chain I doubt its that. I have had workers who cant cut straight because they don't steer the cut. On small cuts they have no problem but on larger cuts they are all crooked. I explian to them that they can't twist the saw the whole time they cut they have to keep it going straight. My 056 couldn't cut a straight line on some big willow. I checked the bar and the groove was just worn out. New bar.... cuts like a laser now. So maybe you don't need an expensive bar.... although the longer cannons arn't too much more. Just my 2 cents worth....



yeah what this guy said... goes along with my thoughts exactly. I just use stihl or oregon power match plus... nothing fancy.. i tried a woodsman pro and was not impressed for the extra money. I always wanted to try a carlton for the novelty of having a bar and a stump grinder with the same name


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## micah79 (Jan 19, 2008)

I used to like the old windsor and old total bars, but manufacturing has changed on them over the years, I would say a Tsumara is probably the best bar that I have. Also keep in mind that hard nose bars are more durable and better at bore cutting, but they do rob torque. A roller nose will usually cut faster in clean wood that is being bucked.


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## Skywalker (Jan 19, 2008)

*problem solved!*

Just Stumps nailed it. Corkscrewing. Unfortunately that means that I have to admit to operator error. I'll trade my frustrations in on that any day of the week! I thought we were gonna go outta business replacing bars, turns out I just needed to modify my cuts. If I use the powerhead as my pivot point the saw will cut straight as an arrow. Thanks a lot. Saved me lots of time and energy today.


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## Freakingstang (Jan 19, 2008)

micah79 said:


> I used to like the old windsor and old total bars, but manufacturing has changed on them over the years, I would say a Tsumara is probably the best bar that I have. Also keep in mind that hard nose bars are more durable and better at bore cutting, but they do rob torque. A roller nose will usually cut faster in clean wood that is being bucked.




The old Widsor Sandvik bars are awesome. I have a few of the old ones stashed away. One of the best bars I ever ran. The new speed tips are made from the same soft steel as the oregon power matches.


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## Freakingstang (Jan 19, 2008)

Skywalker said:


> Just Stumps nailed it. Corkscrewing. Unfortunately that means that I have to admit to operator error. I'll trade my frustrations in on that any day of the week! I thought we were gonna go outta business replacing bars, turns out I just needed to modify my cuts. If I use the powerhead as my pivot point the saw will cut straight as an arrow. Thanks a lot. Saved me lots of time and energy today.



Good on you for admitting you were wrong, or your technique was. Most people have a problem admitting.


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## chub (Jan 19, 2008)

Is that gb titanium bar new for this year, I cant find any info on the web about them. I am also looking for a new bar and the gb rep told me that the CN40 pro titanium is the one to get. If they are so new I am wandering if that really is what I want. Chub


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## 046 (Jan 19, 2008)

check your new chain to make sure it's the correct thickness.
using a .50 chain in a .58 bar that's worn a bit... could cause problems your describing. 

carefully check markings on bar to verify correct size chain is used. 

a bar closing tool is a very good investment. tighten back to factory spec's, then draw file bar back to flat on top. 

after bar is dressed, put on a new chain. betha that fixes it...


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## novaman64 (Jan 30, 2008)

Anybody know of any online retailers where you can get Cannon bars? I went to their site and called the local shop and the guy wouldn't sell me one, said they were no better than an Oregon bar and he wouldn't order them unless I ordered 10 (apparently there min order qnty)...
:jawdrop:


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## (WLL) (Jan 30, 2008)

chub said:


> Is that gb titanium bar new for this year, I cant find any info on the web about them. I am also looking for a new bar and the gb rep told me that the CN40 pro titanium is the one to get. If they are so new I am wandering if that really is what I want. Chub


we have the gb titanium and it is so heavy!!! only the tip is titanium.


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## (WLL) (Jan 30, 2008)

i like oem stihl bars. if you use them right they will out last the saw. i am most pleased with the light fiberglass bars for the tophandles. i hope they start putting them on all there bars.


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## hornett22 (Feb 1, 2008)

*i think they are great bars.*



Freakingstang said:


> when I ran 058 guage chain I ran total super bars made by Tsumara. They are one of the better bars I have ran imo. I never had a problem with the tips, although I don't know which tip they had. I did a lot of plunge cuts, and that is were the weaker tips seem to fail, at least for me.
> 
> I liked them becuase they looked cool, even after lots of use.



quality is great and they do look cool as hell. my only dealer for them around here won't sell me any over 20".anything more comes with the 6 pin sprocket and he says he doesn't want me pissed at him.he sells the 4 pin replacement sprockets as well but says i'm better off with the GB Ti.so far i have no complaints with the GBs other than the paint is crap.not that it matters much.


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## StihlRockin' (Feb 1, 2008)

undercut said:


> I agree with the chain sharpness. keep your bar squared and burr free. keep your chain sharp. some times i will flip a bar touch it up sharpen the chain and then cut some thick clean logs and pull the tip into the wood, digging in with the dog side then pulling the saw back while cutting so the tip is buried. i repeat this process. if the saw pulls back with ease you usually have it straight. if it is hard to pull back (holding up a little) there is a chance there is a bend. I know it might look funny but i notice it seems to get it tracking nice with this method. *Ring any bells for any one else?*



Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about. I do it often when my chain isn't quite cutting right. Usually happens... or at least notice on the bigger wood and is almost always due to a chain that is not sharp by either wearing oddly or knicked something to slightly damage the cutter edges on one side more than another. I'll have a tougher time cutting trying to bury the blade, then I'll pull out the bar and re-track. Happens with loose chains too.

*Stihl*Rockin'


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