# 562xp Hesitation Question



## Locust Cutter (Nov 30, 2013)

First off, I'm not bashing the 562 as I love mine and as it's broken in, it's only become more mean. My question involves the off-idle throttle application: do any other 562 owners have issues with off-throttle acceleration? My saw always starts easily, runs out nicely (once warm) and cuts well beyond it's displacement. However, once properly warmed up and throughout each tank, if it idles for any period of time, when I hit the throttle, it initially bogs for a second or two and then catches and runs out fine, almost like it's either flooding or going extremely lean. No other issues and warm starts are just as easy as cold starts. I'm running fresh 87-91 octane gas and the Woodland Pro synthetic at a 40:1 blend. None of my other saws are exhibiting any problems off of the same mix. Any ideas sawyers?


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## moody (Nov 30, 2013)

Mweba just posted a video on YouTube that should help you out. It boils down to the pop off pressure on the carb is too high. Some have a stumble upon revving up and some have idle issues. If it's under warranty tell your dealer. You can start simple and reset it. If that doesn't work they'll usually replace the carb around here.


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## moody (Nov 30, 2013)

This is Mweba's video I'm not taking credit for the video or finding the fix. Just figured this may be helpful to the OP


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## SawTroll (Dec 1, 2013)

My 560xpg has an exellent off idle throttle responce, the best one I ever have experienced - and it is an early one.


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## BKrusher (Dec 1, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> My 560xpg has an exellent off idle throttle responce, the best one I ever have experienced - and it is an early one.


Well of course sawtroll.... Just giving ya a little jab....


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## SawTroll (Dec 1, 2013)

BKrusher said:


> Well of course sawtroll.... Just giving ya a little jab....


 
Well, I haven't been able to run it much, because of my health issues....


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## boxygen (Dec 1, 2013)

Mine just started exhibiting the same problem.


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## sunfish (Dec 1, 2013)

None of that with mine and it's two years old.

Looks like Mitch's fix (what Moody posted) will take care of the problem.


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## moody (Dec 1, 2013)

Not all of them have done or will do this. If your saw is under warranty tell your dealer what the issue is. If it's not then this video should help you find an alternative to replacing the carb.


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## Orange Hill (Dec 1, 2013)

Just curious why you are running 40:1? You state that it seems lean, since 40:1 is leaner (less gas per volume) that 50:1 and Husky recommends 50:1 and since it is an auto-tune carb I would think that viscosity would come into play with fuel metering. Your other saws are manually adjustable so the mix ratio can be taken into account. Maybe go to Lowe's and get a can of the premixed 50:1 gas and run a tank thru and see if that changes anything. I haven't had a better saw than the 562XP and thankfully I haven't had any issues yet other than the front of my bashed up because the stupid stock raker (aftermarket on back order from Baileys). Good luck, and hopefully something simple.


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## BKrusher (Dec 1, 2013)

SawTroll said:


> Well, I haven't been able to run it much, because of my health issues....


Ya I'm just stirring up the old ford/Chevy debate...like I've said before I enjoy reading most of your posts!


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## sunfish (Dec 1, 2013)

I've rum my 562 at 32:1 40:1 & 50:1. All run the same, auto tune doesn't care.


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## lmbrman (Dec 1, 2013)

sunfish said:


> I've rum my 562 at 32:1 40:1 & 50:1. All run the same, auto tune doesn't care.


 
Same here, never an issue other than I didn't buy a 'g' model. Getting cold up here.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 1, 2013)

I only did 40:1 as the other saws seem to run a bit better that way (with equal tuning( and run cooler. I had also spoken with and PM'ed more than a few 562 owners on the topic before deciding to go that route. Occasionally I'll screw up and mix a batch of 50:1 and the result is the same, other than the other saws run a bit more richly...


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## CJ1 (Dec 2, 2013)

MY 562 ran like crap when I first got it, a new carb fixed most of it but like you said it has a hitch off idle but that was/is minor compared to the way it ran at first. Now that I am mostly done cutting I will look into the repair. CJ


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## SierraWoodsman (Dec 2, 2013)

sunfish said:


> None of that with mine and it's two years old.
> 
> Looks like Mitch's fix (what Moody posted) will take care of the problem.



+1. Mine also seems to run equally fine anywhere between 50:1 & 32:1


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## skylogger (Dec 2, 2013)

This is exactly what my 562 is doing and the carb has already been replaced.


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## skylogger (Dec 2, 2013)

Well i tried the spring trick that didn't work


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2013)

Hmmm....


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## skylogger (Dec 2, 2013)

My thoughts exactly.


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## LogSawyer74 (Dec 2, 2013)

Have you checked the tank vent? This fall mine started acting up; bog off idle and cutting out at wot. I took a shot in the dark and replaced the tank vent and it fixed it.


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## Terry Syd (Dec 3, 2013)

Maybe we might eventually have another thread on 'modding tank vents', something like how to gut an EPA vent and the favourite steel wool to use when packing it.

If anyone missed it, here is a thread that incudes some information on how these diaphragm carbs work - http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chinese-carburetor.246510/


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 4, 2013)

Current report: Thankfully the saw wasn't truly malfunctioning. I didn't realize that from time-to-time, when you experienced a major temp/climactic conditions change, that you still needed to run the saw WOT/NO-LOAD for a bit to make the computer reset itself. My normal dealer had no equipment or training to deal with it () so I drove an additional 20 miles out of my way to go to another which had both. They offered to diagnose it after asking all of the usual questions and me being honest about it's run-time, usage, fuel, etc. They then asked if I had run it WOT since the weather change and, well, no. They took it outside, cranked it up and immediately ran it WOT for about a minute (I still can't believe that it's ok to do that to a cold engine of any kind) and then it was back to it's usual Tree-hating self. Problem fixed for now! We'll see tomorrow when I use it for 2 cords worth (I think) of fresh Hedge. Either way, I was disappointed in my normal dealer, but the other was great and very prompt. They may be my NEW Husky dealer as there still may be a 395xp in my future if the new MS661 creamsickle doesn't win me over. Thank you everyone for the posts and Moody, I am bookmarking that video!


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## Terry Syd (Dec 4, 2013)

It's my understanding that the computer only controls a High speed needle on that system. Anybody know if that is correct?

If so, an off idle problem on the Low speed circuit wouldn't be fixed by running the saw at WOT.

Keep us advised of what is happening. If the problem comes back it may be the tank vent.

What may have happened with the WOT run was the tank pressure was altered by the consumption of fuel.

Perhaps one of those vented green gas caps could be a diagnostic aide at times like this. Simply put on the green cap and see if the problem is fixed.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 4, 2013)

Terry Syd said:


> It's my understanding that the computer only controls a High speed needle on that system. Anybody know if that is correct?
> 
> If so, an off idle problem on the Low speed circuit wouldn't be fixed by running the saw at WOT.
> 
> ...



I wasn't sure about the L side, but being as there is no adjustment for either, I would have to assume that it does. I could be wrong. It could well be the vent, but I don't possess a green cp to try that. I may have to procure one if this continues.


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## Rounder (Dec 4, 2013)

So 1 minute WOT at no load is the correct procedure to reset the computer? Seems a bit hard on things...

My new one has this issue, unfortunately my Husky guru is home in bed with a wicked cold......So here I am.


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## hamish (Dec 4, 2013)

Rounder said:


> So 1 minute WOT at no load is the correct procedure to reset the computer? Seems a bit hard on things...
> 
> My new one has this issue, unfortunately my Husky guru is home in bed with a wicked cold......So here I am.


It much prefers to re-learn itself under load, buried in wood in excess of a couple of minutes.

For anybody considering the purchase of an AT saw...............find a dealer that has the reader and understands how the system works.


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## skylogger (Dec 4, 2013)

I unscrewed the cap on mine and it did the same thing so im guessing its not the tank vent


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## Rounder (Dec 4, 2013)

hamish said:


> It much prefers to re-learn itself under load, buried in wood in excess of a couple of minutes.
> 
> For anybody considering the purchase of an AT saw...............find a dealer that has the reader and understands how the system works.


 
Thanks, that was the way I understood it to work previously......Got a good dealer with a reader (with a bad cold and not at work, unfortunately)


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## naturelover (Dec 5, 2013)

Wouldn't have been too happy if he had taken my saw and ran it at wot no load for a minute..

Just sayin'..... 

I thought you were supposed to make 5 cuts or so under load to reset them anyways?


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk


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## MarkEagleUSA (Dec 5, 2013)

naturelover said:


> I thought you were supposed to make 5 cuts or so under load to reset them anyways?


Right from the manual:

*Engine adjustment*
The following steps should be taken when the chain saw is started for the first time or when outside circumstances change (fuel, altitude, air filter etc.): Start the engine. Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.). The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire time so that the carburettor can adjust itself.


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## moody (Dec 5, 2013)

There's more than one way to skin a cat guys.


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## J.Walker (Dec 5, 2013)

lmbrman said:


> Same here, never an issue other than I didn't buy a 'g' model. Getting cold up here.



I bought a G model to start with but then bought a lighter xp model for summer use. 
One for winter and one for summer!


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 5, 2013)

Well it was abut the same today. Sometimes the response was perfect, but more than a few times it fell on it's face for a brief period, then came back and ran out properly. We'll see.


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## DexterDay (Dec 5, 2013)

Had a 562 that would fall on its face all the time. Ended up being the crank seal was torn, because it threw a bearing.

Not saying this is your case. But that bad things can happen. Doesn't take long. 

How long have you owned it? Under warranty?


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 5, 2013)

I bought it the last week of August. I don't know how long the warranty period is, but I hope it's longer than 3.5 months.


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## blsnelling (Dec 5, 2013)

Does the 562 have a hidden L needle like the 550 does?


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## moody (Dec 5, 2013)

blsnelling said:


> Does the 562 have a hidden L needle like the 550 does?


Same design. The pop off pressure is just ridiculous on these and causes issues. If it's under warranty don't tamper with it. Take it back tell them it still stumbles. If they won't fix it ccontact mweba


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 6, 2013)

blsnelling said:


> Does the 562 have a hidden L needle like the 550 does?


One of the first things I looked for, mine did not have it. Figured it was worth a shot. I took mine to a pro.


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## boxygen (Dec 6, 2013)

I have a 562 workshop manual PDF. If anyone wants it, PM me an email address. Its too big to attach. Seems like a good of a place as any to post this.


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## spike60 (Dec 6, 2013)

blsnelling said:


> Does the 562 have a hidden L needle like the 550 does?


 

All of the new ones do. If it came with the flippy caps, you can be sure you've got the magic screw in there.

The OP's problem could most easily be solved by plugging the saw into the diagnostic tool and hitting the reset on the fuel settings. (do NOT hit the master reset) There is an idle setting in the AT, and if this issue only rears it's head after idling for a while, then this is where you should be looking. If the tank vent was at fault, then you'd more likely be having an issue when cutting, not idling.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 6, 2013)

That sounds like the culprit. Once it's warm and I'm using it, if I'm constantly on and off of the throttle, it's fine. If it idles for more than about 5 seconds, then it stumbles on the next throttle application, until it finally cleans up an takes off. I guess it will be going back.


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## lmbrman (Dec 6, 2013)

J.Walker said:


> I bought a G model to start with but then bought a lighter xp model for summer use.
> One for winter and one for summer!



well, followed your example, a "G" should arrive Tuesday !


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## lmbrman (Dec 6, 2013)

spike60 said:


> All of the new ones do. If it came with the flippy caps, you can be sure you've got the magic screw in there.
> 
> The OP's problem could most easily be solved by plugging the saw into the diagnostic tool and hitting the reset on the fuel settings. (do NOT hit the master reset) There is an idle setting in the AT, and if this issue only rears it's head after idling for a while, then this is where you should be looking. If the tank vent was at fault, then you'd more likely be having an issue when cutting, not idling.



That sounds like the right plan for the new technology, use a little technology, not a screwdriver. At least try it first. I am having trouble finding a dealer close by that understands this.


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## hamish (Dec 6, 2013)

lmbrman said:


> That sounds like the right plan for the new technology, use a little technology, not a screwdriver. At least try it first. I am having trouble finding a dealer close by that understands this.



Its just basic troubleshooting, that if anything helps direct the dealer to zero in on what wrong. Yet when they encounter an error code that states something as simple as an air leak, they fail to check for one and continue to hunt for other demons vesus crossing it off the list systematically. There are many professionals out there that take pride work, keep looking you will find one. The search sometimes is as hard as finding an M-Tronic saw up here, something scary bout them Gen 1 saws I guess.


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## lmbrman (Dec 6, 2013)

hamish said:


> Its just basic troubleshooting, that if anything helps direct the dealer to zero in on what wrong. Yet when they encounter an error code that states something as simple as an air leak, they fail to check for one and continue to hunt for other demons vesus crossing it off the list systematically. There are many professionals out there that take pride work, keep looking you will find one. The search sometimes is as hard as finding an M-Tronic saw up here, something scary bout them Gen 1 saws I guess.



Some are not open minded to the change and helpful compared to you guys on here, but I found one and its worth the drive. Havent needed anything done, but its clearly not going to get worked on locally. Refused to even order me an AT saw. Too bad for them, I bought my 4AT elsewhere 

thanks for your info as always, be safe - dave


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## mweba (Dec 31, 2013)

Terry Syd said:


> It's my understanding that the computer only controls a High speed needle on that system. Anybody know if that is correct?
> 
> If so, an off idle problem on the Low speed circuit wouldn't be fixed by running the saw at WOT.
> 
> ...



The Autotune controls one solenoid. Like standard carbs, the low pressure flowing over the main nozzle shifts the fuel draw to the high side. The AT learns to control this transition through the Throttle Position Sensor. Knowing when the pressure changes passages in the range to alter the fuel flow at the solenoid.

Bog at idle can also be caused by a rich condition. To test for this, let the saw idle for three to five minutes. If it loads and blows smoke/unburnt fuel, its rich. Possibly the needle isn't seating proper or the pop off was adjusted to much. The condition this fixes is a lean one. From the factory some of these carbs throttle butterfly is sealed to tight, not letting enough air past. In turn, the AT leans the mixture to attain the proper idle speed. If one is to let more air by, more fuel is necessary to maintain the same idle. The 550/545 Walbro carb has a bypass adjustment screw.

550/545



Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr








Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr




In



Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr
Out




Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr


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## mweba (Dec 31, 2013)

blsnelling said:


> Does the 562 have a hidden L needle like the 550 does?



No. That is the reason for this grinding fix.


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## mweba (Dec 31, 2013)

spike60 said:


> All of the new ones do. If it came with the flippy caps, you can be sure you've got the magic screw in there.
> 
> The OP's problem could most easily be solved by plugging the saw into the diagnostic tool and hitting the reset on the fuel settings. (do NOT hit the master reset) There is an idle setting in the AT, and if this issue only rears it's head after idling for a while, then this is where you should be looking. If the tank vent was at fault, then you'd more likely be having an issue when cutting, not idling.



Good to know. Haven't seen one yet.


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## SCHallenger (Dec 31, 2013)

Orange Hill said:


> Just curious why you are running 40:1? You state that it seems lean, since 40:1 is leaner (less gas per volume) that 50:1 and Husky recommends 50:1 and since it is an auto-tune carb I would think that viscosity would come into play with fuel metering. Your other saws are manually adjustable so the mix ratio can be taken into account. Maybe go to Lowe's and get a can of the premixed 50:1 gas and run a tank thru and see if that changes anything. I haven't had a better saw than the 562XP and thankfully I haven't had any issues yet other than the front of my bashed up because the stupid stock raker (aftermarket on back order from Baileys). Good luck, and hopefully something simple.



I'm running the Husky 95octane 50:1 premix, & mine is doing the exact same thing.


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## sunfish (Jan 1, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> I'm running the Husky 95octane 50:1 premix, & mine is doing the exact same thing.


Yep, it ain't the mix. The fix/fixes have been posted above...


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## Junkfxr (Jan 1, 2014)

I've been having the same problems with hot restart and off idle flat spot since I got mine in May. I can't find a dealer within an hour of me that has the tools and software to reflash the computer, everybody seems to be afraid of them for some reason, I guess it's just like when automobiles first started using ecm's on the engine. Better get used to it, it's on the way for everything with an engine. Thank you EPA.

I just cut the spring on the needle this morning. We'll see what happens after while.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 1, 2014)

I've been having the same problems with hot restart and off idle flat spot since I got mine in May. I can't find a dealer within an hour of me that has the tools and software to reflash the computer, everybody seems to be afraid of them for some reason, I guess it's just like when automobiles first started using ecm's on the engine. Better get used to it, it's on the way for everything with an engine. Thank you EPA.

I just cut the spring on the needle this morning. We'll see what happens after while.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 1, 2014)

Sorry about the double post. Stupid slow computer caused me to hit "Post" twice and I don't know how to delete it.


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## tlandrum (Jan 1, 2014)

dealers should be required to order the tool before they can order the saw


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## indiansprings (Jan 1, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> dealers should be required to order the tool before they can order the saw


Terry, you hit the nail on the head. Not only order the saw, but whatever the mfg Husky/Stihl etc. they should have a online training module that every tech/owner should be required to take. I have no idea what the AT tool cost, but we paid around 700.00 for the MT box and cables, a cheap investment in the long run.


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## tlandrum (Jan 1, 2014)

they have the at tool down to a bit over a $100,any can purchase the tool ,even customers. problem being to get the new software to be able to reload or update the saw takes logging in as a dealer to the Husqvarna site.but you can use the tool for diagnosing problems even without the new software updates.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 1, 2014)

Cutting the spring on the metering needle didn't help at all on my saw, still falls flat on it's face when I hit the throttle after it warms up. You're exactly right about dealers should be required to have the tools, software, and training before they can keep their dealer status, just like the automotive industry. I guess that I'm about to start on a search for a dealer within a day's drive that can work on my saw. This is ridiculous, that a manufacturer will put out a piece of equipment that the "certified" dealers can't (won't) work on and the manufacturer doesn't require them to have the ability to service what they sell.


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## tlandrum (Jan 1, 2014)

when I took on the Husqvarna dealership my sales man mentioned needing the tools to fix autotune which I already hade from being a jonsered dealer.


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## nk14zp (Jan 2, 2014)

It would sour me on a brand if I had to drive more than an hour to find a dealer to fix my saw. I buy local when I can and don't under stand how a dealer can stay a dealer if he does not have the ability to fix what he sells. This goes to all brands.


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## Mastermind (Jan 2, 2014)

I've stopped porting the 562XP because of this......


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## tlandrum (Jan 2, 2014)

I ported one today that had a terrible off idle stumble and i had to go thru the carb fix pop off pressure,change air flow thru carb for the off idle transition and then reset thecarb and update it to get it running right . it was the worst ive ever run into


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## Mastermind (Jan 2, 2014)

I've had three like that........after buying some new carbs out of my pocket for them.....I said enough. That saw and the Dolmar 5100 are off my list.


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## tlandrum (Jan 2, 2014)

ive been pretty lucky. I would say ive done near 75 of these autotune saws now and haven't had but one that I had to replace the carb on.


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## boxygen (Jan 2, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I've stopped porting the 562XP because of this......


 Well that's not good


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## boxygen (Jan 2, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I've had three like that........after buying some new carbs out of my pocket for them.....I said enough. That saw and the Dolmar 5100 are off my list.


 How much are the carbs? Are you buying a newer updated model carb or the same exact thing?


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## tlandrum (Jan 2, 2014)

the newest version lists for $101


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## Junkfxr (Jan 3, 2014)

nk14zp said:


> It would sour me on a brand if I had to drive more than an hour to find a dealer to fix my saw. I buy local when I can and don't under stand how a dealer can stay a dealer if he does not have the ability to fix what he sells. This goes to all brands.



Yeah, I'm not brand loyal by any means but this is the second Husky saw that I own and quite possibly the last, all because of lousy dealership response. The same goes for Husky USA headquarters also. They hide behind their dealer network. When you try to find a way to contact them, you always get routed to "Find my Dealer". I'm trying to find a way to get in touch with my area Husky representative, maybe he can find someone local that has the stuff to work on my saw.


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## mweba (Jan 3, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> Cutting the spring on the metering needle didn't help at all on my saw, still falls flat on it's face when I hit the throttle after it warms up. You're exactly right about dealers should be required to have the tools, software, and training before they can keep their dealer status, just like the automotive industry. I guess that I'm about to start on a search for a dealer within a day's drive that can work on my saw. This is ridiculous, that a manufacturer will put out a piece of equipment that the "certified" dealers can't (won't) work on and the manufacturer doesn't require them to have the ability to service what they sell.


How far is the local USPS?


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## mweba (Jan 3, 2014)

Anyone have a part number for the new carb? I'm blind, can't find it.


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## hamish (Jan 3, 2014)

mweba said:


> Anyone have a part number for the new carb? I'm blind, can't find it.


The EL46 is 579 19 41 05.


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## tlandrum (Jan 3, 2014)

the carb I did yesterday didn't look at all like the one in your video. the el46 from the 562 is different


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## boxygen (Jan 3, 2014)

It sounds like Husqvarna knows there is a problem because they have a new carb available, but haven't told the dealers formally why there is a new carb and how to utilize it? Has anyone gotten/installed a new carb under warranty?


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## tlandrum (Jan 3, 2014)

ive had a bran new saw with bad carb out of the box. not the autotune part ,the carb itself was bad. I have never had to replace a carb before that. id say that I am nearing 70-75 ported autotune saws now too.


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## mweba (Jan 3, 2014)

hamish said:


> The EL46 is 579 19 41 05.


And this carb has an adjustment like the 550? People keep telling they do.


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## mweba (Jan 3, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> the carb I did yesterday didn't look at all like the one in your video. the el46 from the 562 is different


That was a EL44. Same applies to 46.


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## boxygen (Jan 3, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> ive had a bran new saw with bad carb out of the box. not the autotune part ,the carb itself was bad. I have never had to replace a carb before that. id say that I am nearing 70-75 ported autotune saws now too.


 
I hear what you are saying Terry. However, it seems that the problems are not on saws right out of the box, but developing several months into ownership.


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## tlandrum (Jan 3, 2014)

well ive been porting them since they came out and no one has called me to say there saw has went to crap.


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## hamish (Jan 3, 2014)

boxygen said:


> I hear what you are saying Terry. However, it seems that the problems are not on saws right out of the box, but developing several months into ownership.



Most problems are easily solved by resetting the fuel settings and or updating the software. There are a lot of early AT2 saws out there finally getting some run time on them. There are loads of them out the running just fine. The others have SB to address the issues. The only carb issues I have experienced were dirt in the carb, which is an operator fault. Consumers and techs need to understand that an issue is not automatically an AT issue, all the normal stuff still applies.


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## dugide (Jan 3, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I've had three like that........after buying some new carbs out of my pocket for them.....I said enough. That saw and the Dolmar 5100 are off my list.


why the 5100?


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## Mastermind (Jan 3, 2014)

dugide said:


> why the 5100?



The Zama carbs that they have on them are just crap.


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## tlandrum (Jan 3, 2014)

I know that randy bought 2 newcarbs from me to try and if he still feels this way then theres definitely a good reason for it.


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## mweba (Jan 3, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> The Zama carbs that they have on them are just crap.


Yes they are. Add the odd design and a suitable replacement just doesn't exist.


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## zogger (Jan 4, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> Yeah, I'm not brand loyal by any means but this is the second Husky saw that I own and quite possibly the last, all because of lousy dealership response. The same goes for Husky USA headquarters also. They hide behind their dealer network. When you try to find a way to contact them, you always get routed to "Find my Dealer". I'm trying to find a way to get in touch with my area Husky representative, maybe he can find someone local that has the stuff to work on my saw.



You wanna help see this "dealers won't get the tool or training" nonsense fixed? Take husky corporate to small claims court. They advertise servicing dealers, yet you go to one, your local dealer, and they aren't, can't or won't work on your husky saw, that's fraud. What's cool about small claims is, they can't send a lawyer, but they do have to send somebody official, and if they don't, you win. Your saw cost decent coin, your time is worth something, etc. come up with some figures and sue their azz. That'll wake up up becvause if they know they will lose claiming all these dealers are servicing dealers when they are *not*, it will be a lot cheaper for them to just GIVE the dang tool to the dealers and insist they learn to use it. 

I bet a lot of this is bubbas at these dealerships who have brainwashed themselves in advance into thinking they don't "get" computers so no way...dang, it is just a simple tool.

This is 2014, human beings need to "get" computers to some extent, they ain't going away. Especially some place like a dealership selling new jazz. Every other motorized whatever has scary "computers" in it now, so tough noogies on the small engine guys who refuse to get with the program, let them go bankrupt. That's capitalism. If the big corporation can't deal with this, getting their dealers in line, heck with it, let them go bankrupt as well.

All I know is, with an older saw you got a screwdriver, with a newer saw, I would want the tool and software, because..back to this is 2014, you need to deal with tech advances if you want new tech. But at a *minimum* the freeking dealers should be required to have it and know how to use it.

I am rather...low income..., but when I finally had to work on a new enough vehicle that it needed and helped to have an obd reader, I bought one. A DEALER can't get a cheap tool? Screw em, small claims court for advertising full service and not having it. Fraud.


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## boxygen (Jan 4, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> I know that randy bought 2 newcarbs from me to try and if he still feels this way then theres definitely a good reason for it.


 That's my point


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## Junkfxr (Jan 4, 2014)

zogger said:


> You wanna help see this "dealers won't get the tool or training" nonsense fixed? Take husky corporate to small claims court. They advertise servicing dealers, yet you go to one, your local dealer, and they aren't, can't or won't work on your husky saw, that's fraud. What's cool about small claims is, they can't send a lawyer, but they do have to send somebody official, and if they don't, you win. Your saw cost decent coin, your time is worth something, etc. come up with some figures and sue their azz. That'll wake up up becvause if they know they will lose claiming all these dealers are servicing dealers when they are *not*, it will be a lot cheaper for them to just GIVE the dang tool to the dealers and insist they learn to use it.
> 
> I bet a lot of this is bubbas at these dealerships who have brainwashed themselves in advance into thinking they don't "get" computers so no way...dang, it is just a simple tool.
> 
> ...




Yep, I can't agree more. I went to another dealer, that doesn't have the ability to work on them either, yesterday morning to see if they could put me in touch with the area rep, maybe he can find me somebody to work on my saw, and we were discussing the situation. I explained to him that sooner or later, everybody will have to get on board and learn computer controlled small engines because they're on the way and fast. Just like when automobiles went from carburetors to fuel injection. If you didn't keep up, you went out of business. He stood there for a minute thinking and finally said "I probably ought to get one of them readers and learn how to use it, makes sense." DUH . Anyway, that dealer called the area rep and left a voice mail. About an hour later, the dealer called me and said there was another dealer in a town about 40 minutes away that had the tool and software. It's a little bitty rinky dink dealer stuck back around behind a big old abandoned warehouse. Had no idea that he was there. He has my saw right now, we'll see what happens now.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 4, 2014)

mweba said:


> How far is the local USPS?



Was this a suggestion to ship the saw off to have it fixed?


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## mweba (Jan 4, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> Was this a suggestion to ship the saw off to have it fixed?



Yes. Shouldn't cost anymore than a two hour round trip X2 for a local dealer.


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## Homelite410 (Jan 4, 2014)

mweba said:


> Yes they are. Add the odd design and a suitable replacement just doesn't exist.


And its a damn shame they don't!


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## newmexico (Jan 4, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> they have the at tool down to a bit over a $100,any can purchase the tool ,even customers. problem being to get the new software to be able to reload or update the saw takes logging in as a dealer to the Husqvarna site.but you can use the tool for diagnosing problems even without the new software updates.



Is there any chance I could get the information on how to order this tool. I'd love to have one and would even take it with me to the dealer and show them how to use it when I took my saw in to them. Heck I'd probably leave it there with them if they seemed to like it.


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## hqv (Jan 4, 2014)

mweba said:


> And this carb has an adjustment like the 550? People keep telling they do.




Nope.

BTW I hate all zama carbs. Piece of crap.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 4, 2014)

mweba said:


> Yes. Shouldn't cost anymore than a two hour round trip X2 for a local dealer.



You're exactly right but that's not the point. I'm not upset because the saw's not working, I"m upset at the dealer support, or lack there of. The saw is a machine. All machines have or will have some sort of problem sooner or later. You should be able to take any name brand machine to any full line dealer and have it repaired without having to ship it off unless you live somewhere like the Alaskan outback. I should be able to take that saw to any full line Husqvarna dealer and have it repaired and there are quite a few full line dealers within 30-45 minutes of me. I've never had to ship a car, truck, tractor, loader, stove, refrigerator, washing machine, etc. away to have it repaired or updated and I feel that this saw should be no different. That's one of the reasons that I try to buy brands that have a large dealer network. I absolutely do not like John Deere equipment but they have the biggest dealer network and parts or service are always just a phone call away, the ONLY reason that I use some JD equipment.


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## CJ1 (Jan 4, 2014)

boxygen said:


> I hear what you are saying Terry. However, it seems that the problems are not on saws right out of the box, but developing several months into ownership.



Mine required a new carb right out of the box. The new carb is good except for the off idle response after 5 seconds or so like almost everyone is complaining about. The next 562 will be ported and I will pay for a new carb if needed. $100 is not worth a headache. Life's too short to be dealing with a problem every time you use something. And whoever ports the next one will get paid for their time to run it, I for one am sick of dealing with people who think my time is worth nothing and I don't expect someone to spend time for me for nothing. CJ


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## MarkEagleUSA (Jan 4, 2014)

newmexico said:


> Is there any chance I could get the information on how to order this tool. I'd love to have one and would even take it with me to the dealer and show them how to use it when I took my saw in to them. Heck I'd probably leave it there with them if they seemed to like it.


Contact tlandrum. I just ordered one for myself through him.


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## hamish (Jan 4, 2014)

newmexico said:


> Is there any chance I could get the information on how to order this tool. I'd love to have one and would even take it with me to the dealer and show them how to use it when I took my saw in to them. Heck I'd probably leave it there with them if they seemed to like it.


It can be ordered by any Husqvarna/Jonsered dealer. Buying one as a consumer is pretty much useless as you would not have access to firmware and software updates. Which are essential in the real world.


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## Philip Wheelock (Jan 4, 2014)

Both local Stihl & Husky dealers in town are cautious about new technologies. Stihl tech will offer no opinion on M-tronic until it's been in the field for 5 years. Husky dealer grumbles about EPA forcing a lot of good saws off the market and would rather maintain a 372 than a 562. So, do you roll the dice on an AT saw with a dealer who is a hotshot on repairing the older saws but isn't up to speed yet on diagnosing and repairing AT? Another thing: Husqvarna has handed dealers a hot potato with the 550/562 saws IMO.


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## funky sawman (Jan 4, 2014)

a big stihl dealer near me said also he will not stock any computerized saws when i questioned him about the 661 stihl. he said it will be many years before they are reliable


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## funky sawman (Jan 4, 2014)

the said dealer had ms660 saws and a couple of 441cm. the salesman didnt sound thrilled when i asked him about the 441cm


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 4, 2014)

Some dealers can't even answer a question about the saws on the shelf or chain so how would they know anything about AT or MT. 


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## Junkfxr (Jan 4, 2014)

I went Thursday morning and bought the last MS362 with a carburetor in the area because of that. The local dealers say that the next batch of 362s that they get in will all be M tronics.


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## funky sawman (Jan 4, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> Some dealers can't even answer a question about the saws on the shelf or chain so how would they know anything about AT or MT.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb





KenJax Tree said:


> Some dealers can't even answer a question about the saws on the shelf or chain so how would they know anything about AT or MT.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb


well the salesman knew more than most i know. he was advising me to run a dual prot muffler on a new 660 and he could set it up that way before i buy it


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 5, 2014)

funky sawman said:


> well the salesman knew more than most i know. he was advising me to run a dual prot muffler on a new 660 and he could set it up that way before i buy it



There are tons of good dealers out there its just a matter of finding one close enough.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## boxygen (Jan 6, 2014)

I stole this screen shot from mweba for discussion purposes from the how many hours on your autotune thread. I stopped by TK's today who has my saw to check out the hesitation issue. By the way, my saw wasn't hesitating, it was completely dying off idle. He did the software update, which seemed to help, it now hesitates instead of dying. We got to talking about some of the stats that are shown on this screenshot, but the ones for my saw in particular. He said that from the saws he has plugged in, a lot of the fuel settings are all over the place. And since we are talking about hesitation off idle, we were focused on "current fuel setting (H/L)" for the particular saw shown here (which I have no idea whether it had hesitation issues or not) the L setting is 170. That seems really high compared to the saws he had info on. IIRC there were a lot in the 80's and low hundreds. Mine saw was 32 on the L setting. The lowest by far, and a LOT lower than the saw shown here. Just made me want to bring this up to discuss to see if we collectively could view and analyze data on saws with this issue to see if we can gain some knowledge here. I myself just find the reports pretty interesting. I could stare at them for hours (and still not know what they mean) 
By the way my saw has about 7 hours on it and 150 starts and max RPM is 13940.


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## zogger (Jan 6, 2014)

boxygen said:


> I stole this screen shot from mweba for discussion purposes from the how many hours on your autotune thread. I stopped by TK's today who has my saw to check out the hesitation issue. By the way, my saw wasn't hesitating, it was completely dying off idle. He did the software update, which seemed to help, it now hesitates instead of dying. We got to talking about some of the stats that are shown on this screenshot, but the ones for my saw in particular. He said that from the saws he has plugged in, a lot of the fuel settings are all over the place. And since we are talking about hesitation off idle, we were focused on "current fuel setting (H/L)" for the particular saw shown here (which I have no idea whether it had hesitation issues or not) the L setting is 170. That seems really high compared to the saws he had info on. IIRC there were a lot in the 80's and low hundreds. Mine saw was 32 on the L setting. The lowest by far, and a LOT lower than the saw shown here. Just made me want to bring this up to discuss to see if we collectively could view and analyze data on saws with this issue to see if we can gain some knowledge here. I myself just find the reports pretty interesting. I could stare at them for hours (and still not know what they mean)
> By the way my saw has about 7 hours on it and 150 starts and max RPM is 13940.



Quite a lot of performance variables with various local pump gas, choice of octane level, oil, etc. *Perhaps* this is reflected in some of these readings?


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## boxygen (Jan 6, 2014)

zogger said:


> Quite a lot of performance variables with various local pump gas, choice of octane level, oil, etc. *Perhaps* this is reflected in some of these readings?


 Makes sense. I'd like to see if we can see a pattern forming. Or none at all.


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## Mastermind (Jan 6, 2014)

The latest ones have been the only ones I've ever had an issue with. I've done 35 - 40......but three of the last six had carb issues. I'm just not going to do anymore unless a real fix is found. It's too hard to take care of these issues when they show up 500 miles away.


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## MarkEagleUSA (Jan 6, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> The latest ones have been the only ones I've ever had an issue with. I've done 35 - 40......but three of the last six had carb issues. I'm just not going to do anymore unless a real fix is found. It's too hard to take care of these issues when they show up 500 miles away.


Randy, are you talking about new saws that had little or no runtime before you got them?

My used 562 is the one I've been thinking about having ported (I got it with a muffler mod [second port], but nothing else as far as I know). I've run 3-4 tanks through it since I picked it up in June and has run just fine for me. It came from the west coast and has signs of decent use., so it definitely hasn't been pampered.

What I'm thinking here is if you're dealing with new saws, maybe the carbs aren't able to adjust properly, but on a used saw, perhaps the results would be different? Or, maybe there is/was a bad lot of newer carbs?

Also, with all the talk about dealers having the AutoTune tool for diagnostics, are they getting training on how to interpret the data as well?

Just throwing it out there to see if anyone has an opinion...


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## Mastermind (Jan 6, 2014)

They were all brand new saws.


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## boxygen (Jan 6, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> They were all brand new saws.


 Do you run all the saws before you tear into them or do these problems show up the first time after the port job?


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## Mastermind (Jan 6, 2014)

I never start a new saw before I tear it down. They ran great at first.......then the issues started showing up at about four - five tanks of fuel.


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## hamish (Jan 6, 2014)

boxygen said:


> I stole this screen shot from mweba for discussion purposes from the how many hours on your autotune thread. I stopped by TK's today who has my saw to check out the hesitation issue. By the way, my saw wasn't hesitating, it was completely dying off idle. He did the software update, which seemed to help, it now hesitates instead of dying. We got to talking about some of the stats that are shown on this screenshot, but the ones for my saw in particular. He said that from the saws he has plugged in, a lot of the fuel settings are all over the place. And since we are talking about hesitation off idle, we were focused on "current fuel setting (H/L)" for the particular saw shown here (which I have no idea whether it had hesitation issues or not) the L setting is 170. That seems really high compared to the saws he had info on. IIRC there were a lot in the 80's and low hundreds. Mine saw was 32 on the L setting. The lowest by far, and a LOT lower than the saw shown here. Just made me want to bring this up to discuss to see if we collectively could view and analyze data on saws with this issue to see if we can gain some knowledge here. I myself just find the reports pretty interesting. I could stare at them for hours (and still not know what they mean)
> By the way my saw has about 7 hours on it and 150 starts and max RPM is 13940.



The fuel settings presented are way off the scale. Under ideal conditions you would be treating 100 as the highest reading, and fuel that is developing the greatest potential of power. The readings presented are direct result of higher octane fuels and higher mix ratio's (ie less than 50:1). Values on the extremes of the scale and beyond the scale are primarily fuel related, or much greater issues ie air that would already be present.

With your saw having a L value of 32 (normally in the real world/non AS) would be about 60, ideally higher. (In the winter here high water fuels, poured above freezing results in lower values across the board).

Tom surely reset your fuel values.


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## hamish (Jan 6, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I never start a new saw before I tear it down. They ran great at first.......then the issues started showing up at about four - five tanks of fuel.


As the AT system tried to sort itself out then decided to give up. You have to build within its capacity, till the time you can remap its potential.


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## Mastermind (Jan 6, 2014)

These last few saws are built no different than the first 30......the only difference is these they won't work as they should.


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## hamish (Jan 6, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> These last few saws are built no different than the first 30......the only difference is these they won't work as they should.


ok so whats changed in the builds regarding carb and software updates? So basically build dates of the saws will start to paint a path.


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## Mastermind (Jan 6, 2014)

These were the latest ones with the newer version carbs. (different throttle plates)


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 6, 2014)

Update:
The issue remains. I have not pulled it apart yet as I'd like to have my warranty honored. The purchase dealer doesn't have and likely won't have anyone qualified to work on it for some time, if ever. The dealer which WOT'ed my saw cold, said they'd plug it in, AFTER I produce my sales documentation from the original purchase (IDK why???). I'm looking for the docs now. Either way if I'm running it continuously it's not terrible. If it idles for more than about 45 seconds though (say when I'm moving brush to facilitate cutting), it falls on it's face when I hit the throttle and has died pobably 5 times just idling. My other saws are running the same mix and running like raped apes. This is about to piss me off. If I don't get it fixed, I may trade it off on a 6100 Dolmar and call it a day.


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## hamish (Jan 6, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> These were the latest ones with the newer version carbs. (different throttle plates)


Different throttle plates and SOFTWARE. The rules have changed Monkey!
You build and have built some great saws (so I hear) give it some time. Some AS computer geek will figure out how to reprogram a module.
In the interm and most importantly to those you have build this platform for, understand how the existing system works. The adage of the AT system compensates for it only lasts so long.


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## hamish (Jan 6, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> Update:
> The dealer which WOT'ed my saw cold, said they'd plug it in, AFTER I produce my sales documentation from the original purchase (IDK why???).



Do you go to work everyday for no pay? The current dealer is trying to work with you, try working with them.


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 6, 2014)

I don't think when I live 40 miles away from he dealer, after having driven 85 miles to go from my house to the non-servicing dealer to that dealer, that they couldn't have called the non-servicing dealer (of whom they're very familiar with and known by their honest reputation) and specified the serial number to get the same info. Joe keeps impeccable records of his transactions... I have no problem working with anyone, but they were fairly crappy about the way they handled it. I'm not asking for sugar coating or ___ kissin', but common courtesy goes a long way. They were initially a bit hesitant to even talk about it, until I referenced doing the diag and asking if they had the factory scan tool/training after which they kind of had a "well hell" look on their faces. Hamish, I'm not trying to run my mouth bout a dealer. I just think as a purveyor of a product that there was room for improvement in the customer service dept. 

And for record, being full-time Air Guard, with a questionable finance dept, I have worked for no pay in the past. On an equally serious note, (I am not trying to be snide or sarcastic, this is an honest question), does the factory not keep track of the warranty card submissions that you fill out and mail in at the time of purchase? If so, I'd hope that it would be as simple for the dealer as being able to call the factory, or factory interface, or online version thereof, spec the serial number and make all necessary determinations, in short order, as to the OP of the saw and it's purchase date for warranty validation needs... Am I way off base here?


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## fastLeo151 (Jan 6, 2014)

Nope


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## hamish (Jan 6, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> And for record, being full-time Air Guard, with a questionable finance dept, I have worked for no pay in the past. On an equally serious note, (I am not trying to be snide or sarcastic, this is an honest question), does the factory not keep track of the warranty card submissions that you fill out and mail in at the time of purchase? If so, I'd hope that it would be as simple for the dealer as being able to call the factory, or factory interface, or online version thereof, spec the serial number and make all necessary determinations, in short order, as to the OP of the saw and it's purchase date for warranty validation needs... Am I way off base here?



Somewhat off base. Your status as a member of the Air Guard, has nothing to do with anything apart from thanks for serving (thought only infantry guys complained so much). Warranty data for the most part is wrong and or incomplete or the individual as selected not to have there data saved by the company. Hell it takes me a few minutes to find my own saws in the system. A simple 2012 XXXXXX vs 2012XXXXXX makes a huge difference. Somebody in VA is registered as the owner of my lawn tractor, and I live in Canada.


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## lmbrman (Jan 7, 2014)

I feel a little lucky with my 562. I thought for sure I would have issues and here is why. When I bought the saw, the selling dealer said he had to run it for 'setup' so I went with him out back. He started the saw, let it idle a few seconds and gave it WOT no load for over two minutes, told me that was to set the carb. I stood there in shock, but had bought the husky oil to extend the warranty, so I let it go. Last time I had the saw read, by a dealer who has the capability and knowledge, the saw had over 250hours on it. Never skipped a beat.

Wish I had bought from one of the good dealers here on AS though. That WOT scream still haunts me. I am going to laugh if the 562xpwg I bought has issues, that one I was the first to run, went right to the woods and put it to work like any saw I own.


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 7, 2014)

My selling dealer never did it and I don't know if that affected the saw or not, but as soon as I got it home, I read the instructions and then put it in a large cant and let her eat. I didn't have problems until somewhere between the 6th and 10th tank, (I don't remember exactly as that saw is a bit more efficient than my others and I also have my others so it's run time is in spurts). As soon as I find the paperwork, it'll go to town with me and we'll see what's going on. Hopefully a reset or something similar fixes it, as aside from the stalling, I really like the handling and versatility of the saw. When the warranty period is up and I'm on my own, the muffler will be modded, but that's as far as I'm willing to go with it.


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## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2014)

Not trying the stir the pot.......but I've yet to have a single M-Tronic saw with a hiccup.


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## lmbrman (Jan 7, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Not trying the stir the pot.......but I've yet to have a single M-Tronic saw with a hiccup.



I spy a spoon in the background. Glad you stuck around Randy, spoon or no


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## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2014)

Yeah I might have had a spoon when I typed that. 

Heck, I can't leave here.....I've got too many good friends here. 

I'm a guy that says what I think.....that causes me a bit of grief sometimes. 

I have to tell on myself here.......I was in a really bad mood for weeks after my old dog died. I let that, and the holidays get to me. 

I do feel like my old self again though.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 10, 2014)

I've been kicking the tires on these XP autotune saws for weeks now and have cash in hand. I've scoured dozens of comments and several forums and have spoken with numerous dealers in person and on the phone. My local, well established dealer, who services and carries all PRO Husky and PRO Stihl Models here in logging country, has not yet even got the autotune interface and software (I won't mention any names). The only dealer who has the software is a smaller shop but about 60 miles away.

Having the freedom to troubleshoot and tweak my old beat up 346XP's carb is not something I really want to lose. I definitely do not want to be packing a laptop up the mountain (that is IF we consumers could ever get the software and autotune interface from Husky). While I am seduced by the great power to weight ratio of these new 500 series XP saws, delicate circuit chips and mountain tops in harsh conditions just don't seem to go together.

I'm no Luddite - I made my living with computers and have cut and burned timber for over 40 years. I understand the (Orwellian) future rapidly approaching us all is an 'internet of things', cars, machines, household appliances and more, all chattering away across the digital universe behind the scenes, but if it ain't *super reliable and sturdy*, it ain't a chain saw I want. I am all ears on how this 562XP reliability issue turns out.

Please keep this thread active so that those of us who need a new saw can make the right decision. From what I've heard so far, I'm leaning towards rebuilding my old saws and moving further into woods - lol

Greatly appreciate everyone's feedback and comments here.
Thanks.


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## Mastermind (Jan 10, 2014)

Hooray M-Tronic !!!!!!!!


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## tlandrum (Jan 10, 2014)

what you hear on these forums about how a auto tune saw is trouble is garbage. don't let the handful of nay sayers keep you from buying a new saw with auto tune. you are looking at a very small dot on the map of how many of those saws are out there working flawlessly compared to how many that have had issues. these saws are not having auto tune issues. it is a carb issue,and carb issues have been something that has been around from day one on anything with a carb. you don't hear everyone in hear talking about oh this saw and that saw have bad carbs don't buy them. because its just a bad carb ,no biggie I can replace that easy. but if its an autotune carb it oh my gosh the auto tune is so wrong and this sucks that aint right I don't want one because so and so has had a problem. take the blinders off folks and see theres more than these handful of saws to think about before you call this technology bad. I remember when throttle bodies came out on cars and we heard the same crap as this.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 10, 2014)

Any links to the 562XP manual please?
... is it correct break in procedure that they suggest 3 to 5 minutes full throttle on first start? :-O
my local dealer (the one who doesn't have the autotune software yet) has not heard of this.

Thanks


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## WoodChuck'r (Jan 10, 2014)

Terry I'll get a #1. Large. Fries. Diet coke.


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## WoodChuck'r (Jan 10, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I do feel like my old self again though.



No one cares about your sex life. 


"I have a potty mouth".


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## tlandrum (Jan 10, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> Any links to the 562XP manual please?
> ... is it correct break in procedure that they suggest 3 to 5 minutes full throttle on first start? :-O
> my local dealer (the one who doesn't have the autotune software yet) has not heard of this.
> 
> Thanks


that's 3 - 5 minutes of full throttle under load in the wood . not just screaming wide open no load.


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## tlandrum (Jan 10, 2014)

WoodChuck'r said:


> Terry I'll get a #1. Large. Fries. Diet coke.


tl;rd


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 10, 2014)

http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2011_EUenAPen/HUSO2011_EUenAPen__1151378-26.pdf

Look at page 29 under engine adjustment.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## WoodChuck'r (Jan 10, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Heck, I can't leave here.....I've got too many good friends here.




Wow you coulda saved me a crapload of headaches if you had said this over a week ago ya prick...!!


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## MountainHigh (Jan 10, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> that's 3 - 5 minutes of full throttle under load in the wood . not just screaming wide open no load.



yes understood thanks - and I know we're talking 2 cycle engines that love to scream, but 3 to 5 minutes full throttle in wood on first start, still goes against everything I've known and leaves me worried about longevity issues on these saws.

I appreciate your broader viewpoint that many are not having issues - that's good to know, but unusual break in procedures like this are contrary to ever bit of power equipment I've ever used.

[scratching my head]


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## Mastermind (Jan 10, 2014)

That WoodChuck'r is a freak. 

He's muh hero ya know.


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

Where are all the AT problems with the 555/560? Same components same software for the most part? It is a numbers game. For the first time ever, AT has hit the market big time. The actual "problems" are very few in reality. The joys of the internet have the ability to take a simple 16D nail a complex and troublesome technology for some that cant operate an up and down wrench.

*Setting porting and mods aside*, on a stock platform, the Gen2 AT saws have resulted in fewer customer issues the across the board in the years I have been selling them than the 300 and 400 series saws. Primarily as it removes the ability for the average consumer to use a turny thingy on the settings. 200-500 series most still can't read a manual or even listen to basic instruction on how the controls work. The human factor plays a lot in the equation.

The AT system is designed to run on 87 octane fuel (basically a true 95RON). Higher octanes can cause error codes/running issues. Yet we have people that insist on running higher octanes. Likewise with oil. Finally we have a tool to accurately calculate run times and the cause and effect of running different mixtures.
Seeing actual run times in different full time environments blows the doors off most past thoughts on run time.

Is there a problem with the inability of some dealers, of course there is, and AT brought it front and center. However the problem existed long before AT came about. It was just more easily hidden in there incompetence. Now the AT system has made many forget all together anything basic about a saw.

New AT saw in box. Take it out, hook it up, do function tests, then check for software updates. The continue on as all the other models, quick visual, add fuel and oil, verify operation (oiling, idling, response,highspeed, re-starting), re-check fasteners, instruct customer on how the thing works, and what the little button thingys do. Direct result, almost no AT related issues, new model issues yes, if I have to replace one more crankcase gasket well come on and ya want to pay me what to do it...............show me the monkey that can do one in an hour everytime.

Its super reliable and sturdy. You still get to troubleshoot your carb, oh yeah that another thing forgotten with AT, its still a friggin carb, remember how to work on one.


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 10, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> yes understood thanks - and I know we're talking 2 cycle engines that love to scream, but 3 to 5 minutes full throttle in wood on first start, still goes against everything I've known and leaves me worried about longevity issues on these saws.
> 
> I appreciate your broader viewpoint that many are not having issues - that's good to know, but unusual break in procedures like this are contrary to ever bit of power equipment I've ever used.
> 
> [scratching my head]


ive broke in more new saws than most folks on arborist site will ever see having been a logger and I have broke every saw in running in like its going to be run every day. never babied any one of them and never lost one doo to mechanical failure because of it.


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## WoodChuck'r (Jan 10, 2014)

You guys SERIOUSLY still carry on lengthy threads about saws....???


Y'all need to get a life. All this serious postin' is for the birdz....


----------



## MountainHigh (Jan 10, 2014)

thanks for the link to the manual KenJax ... 

Page 29 - "_The following steps should be taken when the chain sawis started for the first time or when outside circumstances change (fuel, altitude, air filter etc.): Start the engine. Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.) the chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire time so that the carburetor can adjust itsellf"
_
BUT, what's good for the carburetor may not be so good for the other *moving* parts - but I'm no mechanic and I have to assume they know what they're doing - still a significant departure from what I'm used to.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 10, 2014)

How did you run your 346 for the first time?


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## Mastermind (Jan 10, 2014)

I'm going back to muh ax. **** these damn chainsaws.


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## WoodChuck'r (Jan 10, 2014)

Sheesh all this saw talk is nauseating. 


Think it has everything to do with the lack of getting laid.......


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I'm going back to muh ax. **** these damn chainsaws.


Careful Monkey..........some prick use to ban me everytime I typed the same character four times. Now I just call him a prick.


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## Mastermind (Jan 10, 2014)

We got no mods that are pricks here these days Hamish. No worries my friend. 

Just so everyone knows.......I'm having some serious fun riling up these Autotune lovers.


----------



## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> We got no mods that are pricks here these days Hamish. No worries my friend.
> 
> Just so everyone knows.......I'm having some serious fun riling up these Autotune lovers.


Just hoping you can learn about em so you can port one that will work for more than an hour!


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## wigglesworth (Jan 10, 2014)

Ahhhh bologna!!


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## MountainHigh (Jan 10, 2014)

no intention on starting a saw war, but from my old MS250 Stihl manual -_"A factory new machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load) for the first 3 tanks"_. 

I get the difference between on and off load, but finding a hefty sized 3 minute minimum cut log to bite into will still likely mean at least a couple of lifts of the saw from the cut during the exercise - i.e. Doing the 562XP's break in procedure trying to not drop below 8000 RPM will prolly entail some scream 'off load', even with 80" trees in your back yard.


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## tlandrum (Jan 10, 2014)

my concern is that there are guys that take this stuff as gospel they heard here and I have had several customers change there mind about buying saws after these auto tune threads got going. im not the only dealer that has had this happen.


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## wigglesworth (Jan 10, 2014)

So 3-5 minutes under load at first start without lifting the throttle?

Does it come with a sawmill attachment?


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## Mastermind (Jan 10, 2014)

hamish said:


> Just hoping you can learn about em so you can port one that will work for more than an hour!



I've about figured out all I need to know about them.


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> no intention on starting a saw war, but from my old MS250 Stihl manual -_"A factory new machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load) for the first 3 tanks"_.
> 
> I get the difference between on and off load, but finding a hefty sized 3 minute minimum cut log to bite into will still likely mean at least a couple of lifts of the saw from the cut during the exercise - i.e. Doing the 562XP's break in procedure trying to not drop below 8000 RPM will prolly entail some scream 'off load', unless you've got 80" trees in your back yard.



They should have said 60 minutes, for the attention span of people is too short and 20 seconds seems like an hour. The system can handle WOT with out load as the lean out test in conjunction with rpm will compensate for it. WOT under load and a few "lifts" gets it figured out faster.


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## Hedgerow (Jan 10, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


> Ahhhh bologna!!


Hooray bologna saws!!!!


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


> Does it come with a sawmill attachment?


It should and 10 foot oak, pez dispenser and sunglasses.
Gotta mill in style.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 10, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> How did you run your 346 for the first time?
> Sent from my Autotune Carb



Bought my 346XP second hand a year after it was built.

Off for dinner - hahah- pretty lively bunch here eh! lol


----------



## KenJax Tree (Jan 10, 2014)

Yup a lively bunch but its a good crowd.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## lmbrman (Jan 10, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> that's 3 - 5 minutes of full throttle under load in the wood . not just screaming wide open no load.




Wish I had bought from someone who knew this like yourself Terry. FWIW, my 562xp was 'set' at the dealer WOT no load, over two minutes. Hold on, hold on tight now. NEVER AN ISSUE in 275hours of runtime.

Bought a 562xpg this fall, dealer did not set it up. I went to the woods, first whole tank of fuel was limbing white pine. The saw barely ever got to WOT under load for more than a half second, and most of the time walking from branch to branch idleing, first tank of fuel. NEVER an issue.

My 550xp and 550xpg each had a similar background. Never an issue. I know plenty of guys with the same story as me. All those guys cut more than a little firewood or cookies FWIW.


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> my concern is that there are guys that take this stuff as gospel they heard here and I have had several customers change there mind about buying saws after these auto tune threads got going. im not the only dealer that has had this happen.


I agree 100% Terry, even up here in my igloo the same thing happens. Be a good dealer, understand the product, know how to fix the product. Where are the dealers that cant even do a simple vac and pressure test? They are not on here (well some might be trying to figure it out). You as a dealer will be the one to sell and service the product. That's were it changes. Some of mother oranges stuff I refuse to sell. I sell and service AT saws, I refuse to sell junk. Wait till more MT's get in the market the same thing will happen. 

Drink Beer, Sell Saws, Eat Bacon, the Gospel of a beer drinking, bacon eating, saw seller.


----------



## MountainHigh (Jan 10, 2014)

great feedback - thanks - happy to hear some more positives.


----------



## boxygen (Jan 10, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> my concern is that there are guys that take this stuff as gospel they heard here and I have had several customers change there mind about buying saws after these auto tune threads got going. im not the only dealer that has had this happen.


 I hear ya on that Terry. That is definitely a downside to this conversation and unfair to you guys that sell these saws. I have one of the saws with the problem. Im not worked up about it. I know it will be fixed and I got a call today that led me to believe it might already be fixed. Its not confirmed obviously until its run for a while. What is disappointing about this situation is that it is left to the general public to find out what the solution is to this problem and that Husky is absent from the scene. I love my autotune, Im not getting rid of it and I'll probably buy another. THe message here is not that these saws suck, its that Husky needs to do a better job supporting the dealers with real service bulletins on the problems and forcing dealers to own the diagnostic equipment to test/fix saws if they are selling them, or if they exist In the market at all. Terry, I hope you sell a pile of em because it will only make the support better for everyone in the long run.


----------



## Junkfxr (Jan 10, 2014)

boxygen said:


> I hear ya on that Terry. That is definitely a downside to this conversation and unfair to you guys that sell these saws. I have one of the saws with the problem. Im not worked up about it. I know it will be fixed and I got a call today that led me to believe it might already be fixed. Its not confirmed obviously until its run for a while. What is disappointing about this situation is that it is left to the general public to find out what the solution is to this problem and that Husky is absent from the scene. I love my autotune, Im not getting rid of it and I'll probably buy another. THe message here is not that these saws suck, its that Husky needs to do a better job supporting the dealers with real service bulletins on the problems and forcing dealers to own the diagnostic equipment to test/fix saws if they are selling them, or if they exist In the market at all. Terry, I hope you sell a pile of em because it will only make the support better for everyone in the long run.



That has been my biggest gripe the whole time, is that Husky is not supporting the equipment that it makes by making dealers step up with the tooling and training to work on the stuff.

The dealer has had my 562 for a week now so I called them this morning to see what was going on with it. They have replaced the carburetor, coil, fuel tank, and reprogrammed it. Told me that I can't have it yet, it's still not running right. Still waiting....and waiting......and waiting.


----------



## wigglesworth (Jan 10, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> The dealer has had my 562 for a week now so I called them this morning to see what was going on with it. They have replaced the carburetor, coil, fuel tank, and reprogrammed it. Told me that I can't have it yet, it's still not running right. Still waiting....and waiting......and waiting.



That's crazy.... So if they replaced all that, what else is there? Air leak? Software issue?


----------



## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

boxygen said:


> What is disappointing about this situation is that it is left to the general public to find out what the solution is to this problem and that Husky is absent from the scene. I love my autotune, Im not getting rid of it and I'll probably buy another. THe message here is not that these saws suck, its that Husky needs to do a better job supporting the dealers with real service bulletins on the problems and forcing dealers to own the diagnostic equipment to test/fix saws if they are selling them, or if they exist In the market at all. Terry, I hope you sell a pile of em because it will only make the support better for everyone in the long run.


You want the solution as the general public, give me a data capture of the software version and error codes. Done. 562 is on its 11th update what yours?

Husky has done an amazing job. To place the blame on Husqvarna for the inability for many dealers to be able to read or care about there profession, is a bit much. The service bulletins are out there and the paint by numbers colouring book on AT saws is on its way with pop up figures and free ice cream. Husky is forefront on the issue, the inwardness of many dealers is the problem. Push too hard cooperate wise mother orange looses either way. Its a fiscal balancing act.
Termintate 75% of your North American dealer network, or work with them. Reducing costs on the reader, providing computers, offering training via paper based, online and in person.

Those dealers will disappear, its a time issue.

The main issue even with the dealers that have the reader is they cant update the firmware as they lack the ability to press a button, and don't understand what a software update it. Then assume a AT saw is completely Martian and any problem is automatically AT related. How is Husqvarna supposed to fix the "human" factor?


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 10, 2014)

boxygen said:


> I hear ya on that Terry. That is definitely a downside to this conversation and unfair to you guys that sell these saws. I have one of the saws with the problem. Im not worked up about it. I know it will be fixed and I got a call today that led me to believe it might already be fixed. Its not confirmed obviously until its run for a while. What is disappointing about this situation is that it is left to the general public to find out what the solution is to this problem and that Husky is absent from the scene. I love my autotune, Im not getting rid of it and I'll probably buy another. THe message here is not that these saws suck, its that Husky needs to do a better job supporting the dealers with real service bulletins on the problems and forcing dealers to own the diagnostic equipment to test/fix saws if they are selling them, or if they exist In the market at all. Terry, I hope you sell a pile of em because it will only make the support better for everyone in the long run.



I heard yours was getting better.


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 10, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


> That's crazy.... So if they replaced all that, what else is there? Air leak? Software issue?



tl;dr


----------



## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> That has been my biggest gripe the whole time, is that Husky is not supporting the equipment that it makes by making dealers step up with the tooling and training to work on the stuff.
> 
> The dealer has had my 562 for a week now so I called them this morning to see what was going on with it. They have replaced the carburetor, coil, fuel tank, and reprogrammed it. Told me that I can't have it yet, it's still not running right. Still waiting....and waiting......and waiting.


They are chasing service bulletins not troubleshooting a chainsaw. Its not up to Husqvarna to ensure the dealer owns a 4mm allen wrench or has a spark plug on the shelf.

Sorry forgot while they are SB chasing they may want to look into the av mount, clutch drum and the AT manual while they are at it.

oops forgot again
and the crankcase bolts, the crankcase gasket, the muffler

oh stupid me,
I just should have check the serial number, flashed the software for any updates then troubleshot like a normal non AT saw


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## boxygen (Jan 10, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I heard yours was getting better.


 Hes gonna take it home and fondle it for the weekend. I have all the confidence in the world in my dealer


----------



## wigglesworth (Jan 10, 2014)




----------



## boxygen (Jan 10, 2014)

hamish said:


> You want the solution as the general public, give me a data capture of the software version and error codes. Done. 562 is on its 11th update what yours?
> 
> Husky has done an amazing job. To place the blame on Husqvarna for the inability for many dealers to be able to read or care about there profession, is a bit much. The service bulletins are out there and the paint by numbers colouring book on AT saws is on its way with pop up figures and free ice cream. Husky is forefront on the issue, the inwardness of many dealers is the problem. Push too hard cooperate wise mother orange looses either way. Its a fiscal balancing act.
> Termintate 75% of your North American dealer network, or work with them. Reducing costs on the reader, providing computers, offering training via paper based, online and in person.
> ...


 If that's the case, great. But that's what a lot of people have come to this thread to hear. For some reason its taken 9 pages for someone to say it, though.


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## thomas1 (Jan 10, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


> So 3-5 minutes under load at first start without lifting the throttle?
> 
> *Does it come with a sawmill attachment?*



Husky chain makes 3-5 minutes per cut simple.


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2014)

boxygen said:


> If that's the case, great. But that's what a lot of people have come to this thread to hear. For some reason its taken 9 pages for someone to say it, though.


Then repost and start a new thread, so they can read it up front. I have said it many times, just many are like there dealers they cant read and comprehend at the same time.


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## Hedgerow (Jan 10, 2014)

thomas1 said:


> Husky chain makes 3-5 minutes per cut simple.


They do that so as not to embarrass their Stihl counterparts...


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## Hedgerow (Jan 10, 2014)

Vanguard chain...
The great equalizer...


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## lmbrman (Jan 10, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


>


----------



## wigglesworth (Jan 11, 2014)

lmbrman said:


> View attachment 327034



This caveman isn't having any hesitation problems.


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## lmbrman (Jan 11, 2014)

No hesitation problems for most of the AT saws either. 

I've seen your saw vids and spoke with people who run your saws. Not knocking them at all. Just a little fun here.

Like several have posted, those who refuse to move into the new stuff will be stuck working on old stuff real soon. Nothing wrong with that. Choices are ours to make and I respect yours.


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## wigglesworth (Jan 11, 2014)

lmbrman said:


> No hesitation problems for most of the AT saws either.
> 
> I've seen your saw vids and spoke with people who run your saws. Not knocking them at all. Just a little fun here.
> 
> Like several have posted, those who refuse to move into the new stuff will be stuck working on old stuff real soon. Nothing wrong with that. Choices are ours to make and I respect yours.



I can't argue with that post. Ur supposed to call me stoopid or something. 

I'm happy with my old stuff. I'm even more happy with having the ability to diagnose and repair my own stuff. 

That being said, I've ran several autotune/M-Tronic saws and they all ran fine, I just prefer muh old orange screwdriver.


----------



## Locust Cutter (Jan 11, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> How did you run your 346 for the first time?
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb


Like I stole it.


----------



## Junkfxr (Jan 11, 2014)

The dealer called this morning while he had a slack time to bring me up to speed as to what was happening with my saw. The carburetor that he had put on it came off of his shelf and it wouldn't even register on the computer, said that it wouldn't even show up. Got the saw started but it wouldn't run so he had to put the original carb. back on and order another one. I've been hearing stories of some of these carbs having to be replaced 3,4, or 5 times to get one that will work. Is there a bad batch of carbs floating around out there?


----------



## Philip Wheelock (Jan 11, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> my concern is that there are guys that take this stuff as gospel they heard here and I have had several customers change there mind about buying saws after these auto tune threads got going. im not the only dealer that has had this happen.


Not too much fuss about this up here in the sleepy Blackstone Valley. Most of the tree service companies run Husky's. They're more concerned with breakdowns and repairs to big stuff like chippers and cranes; saws not so much. Mostly they stick with 372's and keep buying them. Of the 562's and 550's that have been sold at the dealer I know, none have come back with problems. For the near term, he would rather maintain 372's than 562's. The 562 and 550 that I ran at the shop were perfect.


----------



## sunfish (Jan 11, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> The dealer called this morning while he had a slack time to bring me up to speed as to what was happening with my saw. The carburetor that he had put on it came off of his shelf and it wouldn't even register on the computer, said that it wouldn't even show up. Got the saw started but it wouldn't run so he had to put the original carb. back on and order another one. I've been hearing stories of some of these carbs having to be replaced 3,4, or 5 times to get one that will work. Is there a bad batch of carbs floating around out there?


Some of the early carbs were bad from what I've heard, but would think that was corrected by now. Wonder if your dealer is up to speed on this stuff?

I've been in two Husky shops lately and both said they have yet to have a problem with the 562xp or 550xp. One shop has only sold a few of these, other shop is much larger and has sold dozens...


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 11, 2014)

I never had a single issue with the first or "earlier" saws. It's the newest ones that have been trouble for me. Keep in mind, that's 3 saws out of 35 - 40 562XPs. Not a single problem with any 550XPs, nor any trouble with any J'Red models. It's just tough for me to figure out what to do if there is an issue, so I've decided it would be best if I deferred these saws to guys that have some dealer backing. In no way am I saying that these are bad saws, or that they should be avoided. I've just got so many saws to do that I can't devote the time I would need to figuring out this one model.


----------



## lmbrman (Jan 11, 2014)

how many AT saws have been built?


----------



## Junkfxr (Jan 11, 2014)

Has anyone heard anything at all about the 576XP AT?


----------



## SCHallenger (Jan 11, 2014)

hamish said:


> Where are all the AT problems with the 555/560? Same components same software for the most part? It is a numbers game. For the first time ever, AT has hit the market big time. The actual "problems" are very few in reality. The joys of the internet have the ability to take a simple 16D nail a complex and troublesome technology for some that cant operate an up and down wrench.
> 
> *Setting porting and mods aside*, on a stock platform, the Gen2 AT saws have resulted in fewer customer issues the across the board in the years I have been selling them than the 300 and 400 series saws. Primarily as it removes the ability for the average consumer to use a turny thingy on the settings. 200-500 series most still can't read a manual or even listen to basic instruction on how the controls work. The human factor plays a lot in the equation.
> 
> ...



I have to question the 87 octane fuel statement in light of Husky's extending their warranty from 2 to 4yrs if you run their canned pre-mix which is rated at 95 octane E-free & is mixed with synthetic or synthetic blend @ 50:1.


----------



## hamish (Jan 11, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> I have to question the 87 octane fuel statement in light of Husky's extending their warranty from 2 to 4yrs if you run their canned pre-mix which is rated at 95 octane E-free & is mixed with synthetic or synthetic blend @ 50:1.



The AT system is designed to run on 87 octane fuel (basically a true 95RON). 
The US uses AKI ratings which are 5 points lower than the RON ratings used everywhere else in the world., however the blends are usually produced at different numbers by different manufactures. 87 is the lowest AKI rating in North America for unleaded gasoline.


----------



## SCHallenger (Jan 11, 2014)

hamish said:


> The AT system is designed to run on 87 octane fuel (basically a true 95RON).
> The US uses AKI ratings which are 5 points lower than the RON ratings used everywhere else in the world., however the blends are usually produced at different numbers by different manufactures. 87 is the lowest AKI rating in North America for unleaded gasoline.



If I understand your reply correctly, the Husky 95 octane rating is an RON number & is the equivalent of US AKI rated 87 octane? BTW, where in Ont. are you? I have a bunch of cousins in the London, Toronto, Hamilton area.


----------



## Locust Cutter (Jan 11, 2014)

I hope to get mine in the shop this week as soon as I can find my receipt...


----------



## sunfish (Jan 11, 2014)

lmbrman said:


> how many AT saws have been built?


Don't know, but a Lot more have been sold than MTronics!


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 11, 2014)

I'd say that is true Don. The 441C-M was never a hot seller. 

If Stihl uses this same system on the MS201T, and now that the MS261 is C-M, things may well pick up on those numbers.


----------



## nonstop607 (Jan 11, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> Has anyone heard anything at all about the 576XP AT?


Love mine, less than a year old though... runs great, never any issues. Clutch brake handle broke (6 month warranty only says local dealer) Oh well I probably left something drop on it, because I never use it. Did not even know it was broken until a friend wanted to use it. Did I mention it runs great?


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 11, 2014)

I've built a few 576XPATs that were freakin beasts......


----------



## mweba (Jan 11, 2014)

Had one 441 to my knowledge, the dealer never figured out. After a month of back and forth they handed me a new one. Only problem though. 

Still not one issue, that has been reported on one of my 562's. Well, other than a recoil housing. 

I don't care what brand, every model has a field improvement phase.


----------



## Ozhoo (Jan 11, 2014)

With too much time and turkey in my belly I went through the IPL's in an effort to find some commonality. Regrettable, I have turkey coma and lost my train of thought.


----------



## mweba (Jan 11, 2014)

The transition to Walbro would be a god send. 

Sent from muh 'Merican built phone.


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Jan 11, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> In no way am I saying that these are bad saws, or that they should be avoided.




I'll say it then.....


These are bad saws and should be avoided. Friends don't let friends cut autotuned.

Get a 361 or 357, then "I have a potty mouth".


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 11, 2014)

"I have a potty mouth"? Is that a technical term?


----------



## lmbrman (Jan 11, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> "I have a potty mouth"? Is that a technical term?



I think it means girl friend yourself ?


----------



## XSKIER (Jan 12, 2014)

It can mean anything you want it to. If you have M-Tronic then Good For You! If you have Autotune then Gunna Fail 4 You


----------



## MustangMike (Jan 12, 2014)

DexterDay said:


> Had a 562 that would fall on its face all the time. Ended up being the crank seal was torn, because it threw a bearing.
> 
> Not saying this is your case. But that bad things can happen. Doesn't take long.
> 
> How long have you owned it? Under warranty?



Hope you don't mind me asking, but I see you have owned saws with both M-Tronic and Auto Tune. How would you compare the two systems?

Also, does M-Tronic help the 441 close the performance gap on the 460? I have a new MS 362 C-M (mid week delivery) on order to replace a pre M-Tronic MS 441.

Thanks,
MustangMike


----------



## Homelite410 (Jan 12, 2014)

WoodChuck'r said:


> I'll say it then.....
> 
> 
> These are bad saws and should be avoided. Friends don't let friends cut autotuned.
> ...


Chukka is just afraid of something that's smarter than he is!


----------



## boxygen (Jan 12, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> Chukka is just afraid of something that's smarter than he is!


 I heard Autotune was running the servers at S-hogs. Makes sense now.


----------



## boxygen (Jan 12, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> Chukka is just afraid of something that's smarter than he is!


 I heard Autotune was running the servers at S-hogs. Makes sense now.


----------



## hamish (Jan 12, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> If I understand your reply correctly, the Husky 95 octane rating is an RON number & is the equivalent of US AKI rated 87 octane? BTW, where in Ont. are you? I have a bunch of cousins in the London, Toronto, Hamilton area.



AKI rated 87 is a 91-92 RON rating in the US. Ratings within the same scale vary globally. I am an hour north west of Ottawa.


----------



## MarkEagleUSA (Jan 12, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> I have to question the 87 octane fuel statement in light of Husky's extending their warranty from 2 to 4yrs if you run their canned pre-mix which is rated at 95 octane E-free & is mixed with synthetic or synthetic blend @ 50:1.


When I bought my 2 XPAT's last year I also bought the premix fuel in order to extend the non-commercial warranty to 4 years. I also made the decision to run ONLY the Husqy premix in those 2 saws (I'm using TruFuel in my others). If I ever have a problem and a dealer questions anything about the fuel there's going to be a problem.


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## SCHallenger (Jan 12, 2014)

hamish said:


> AKI rated 87 is a 91-92 RON rating in the US. Ratings within the same scale vary globally. I am an hour north west of Ottawa.



Thanks for the clarification. Looks like I'm about where I should be with my "other" saws in which I'm running 91 octane E-free with Stihl Ultra @ 50:1. Sorry to the OP for being a little off subject.


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## SCHallenger (Jan 12, 2014)

MarkEagleUSA said:


> When I bought my 2 XPAT's last year I also bought the premix fuel in order to extend the non-commercial warranty to 4 years. I also made the decision to run ONLY the Husqy premix in those 2 saws (I'm using TruFuel in my others). If I ever have a problem and a dealer questions anything about the fuel there's going to be a problem.



The biggest problem with the Husky premix was noted by my dealer. There is no dye in the oil, so it looks like straight gas!!


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## Junkfxr (Jan 25, 2014)

Latest on my 562 problems. I picked it up last Friday from the dealer, brought it home and tried to use it but it was worse than it was before I took it to him. Call them and was told that it needs to be ran for a couple of hours for it to program itself. Then why does the owner's manual say 3-5 minutes? So just to humor them, I tried using it Saturday. Every time that it would idle for more than 10 seconds or so and I hit the throttle, it would die. Finally got tired of it and got another saw out of the truck to use for the rest of the day. Took it back Monday. Called the dealer this morning to see what was going on. He had called the tech people at Husky and was told that they were working on another update to fix ALL of the hesitation problems and it would be another 30-90 days before they would see it, it's being worked on in Sweden. Until then, they weren't issuing any warranty carburetors. He asked about replacing the saw and they said no because it can still be made to run. He said that he would call the area rep on Monday and see what he thought about all of this. So the dealer has had my saw for over 3 weeks total now and can't get Husky to do anything to make it right. I am one of the ones that got bit with the new technology that apparently wasn't proven before it was put into production and I dumped almost $800 doing it. I haven't bad mouthed Husky yet because I try to refrain from that sort of thing but this is the second Husqvarna saw that I've owned and it WILL be the last and I WILL pass my experiences along to whom ever wants to know. I did buy another pro 60cc saw this morning with a conventional carburetor so they can keep the 562 as long as they want to figure out what makes it not work as advertised.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 25, 2014)

[quote="Junkfxr, post: 4667241, member: 19700" I did buy another pro 60cc saw this morning with a conventional carburetor so they can keep the 562 as long as they want to figure out what makes it not work as advertised.[/quote]

Sorry to hear you have had so much grief ... what did you buy?


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 26, 2014)

Well FWIW, I'm a bit confused. I took my 562 out last Wednesday (the day before I had shoulder surgery) and it ran like a top. It was around 55 degrees outside and it had NO issues whatsoever. I'm confused. I will try to run it again when it's cold out to see if the problem comes back. If so then it would seem to be temperature related, although I'm not sure why or how?


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## SCHallenger (Jan 28, 2014)

spike60 said:


> All of the new ones do. If it came with the flippy caps, you can be sure you've got the magic screw in there.
> 
> The OP's problem could most easily be solved by plugging the saw into the diagnostic tool and hitting the reset on the fuel settings. (do NOT hit the master reset) There is an idle setting in the AT, and if this issue only rears it's head after idling for a while, then this is where you should be looking. If the tank vent was at fault, then you'd more likely be having an issue when cutting, not idling.


 What is the model no. of the carb in the newest model with the flippy caps? I have the EL46 in mine & it is exhibiting the same problems described in this thread. It has also just had a software update as described in the thread, "562XP questions". After the update, it idled normally at both fast & slow idle which it had not done before, but, after fully warming up in the wood, resumed dying or showing a big hesitation off of idle if allowed to idle for 5 sec. or more. Something which should be mentioned is that the outdoor temp was only 9deg.F. I am wondering if opening the carb compartment by getting rid of the plug in the firewall would have made a difference? It looks like there is no way to remove it without some sort of replacement part when warmer temps arrive?! The manual says to remove it with a screwdriver? It would be nice if they gave clearer instructions such as, punch it out or carve it out & showed a pic of the replacement part. I'm guessing it must be some sort of plug, or do you have to replace the entire firewall?


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## LogSawyer74 (Jan 28, 2014)

Temperature seems to be the biggest problem for mine too. I posted a reply in this thread pages ago about changing the tank vent and it fixed the hesitation on mine. Well, it did fix it the first time I ran it after changing the vent. That was a warm day around 65 degrees. The next time I ran it the hesitation was back. And it was about 30 out. I've since tried experimenting by running it in different temperatures. Below about 35 the hesitation shows itself. (or is much worse). Mine never dies, but just bogs for a second or two. The warmer the temperature is, the less problem I have with the bog. I don't think I've ever had any hesitation above 70 degrees. Maybe it's pure coincidence, but I don't think it's likely. Just my .02 worth


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## LogSawyer74 (Jan 28, 2014)

BTW, I have the EL46 carb and the saw was manufactured in the 25th week of 2012.


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## Philip Wheelock (Jan 28, 2014)

As many of you know, AS members TK and mweba have been putting serious time into troubleshooting this issue and have been reporting their findings in a couple of current threads. From what they say, it seems clear to me that the carb design is causing the problems, NOT the auto tune. Imagine there's some gnashing of teeth going on right now between Zama and Husqvarna. I liked the 562xp a lot when I got the chance to run one and will be glad when this is all resolved so that the usual natterers of negativity can get back to quacking about oil threads.


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## TK (Jan 28, 2014)

The technology that is failing IS NOT NEW IN ANY WAY. The technology that is failing is a carburetor. Been on saws since the beginning. What is, in fact working, and working fine - is the new technology that is being blamed because it's the easiest thing to point at. 

We have made simple physical/mechanical changes to these carburetors and the problems are lessening more and more as we go. We will probably have this problem solved before husky, so stay tuned. When husky solves it, warranty will likely repair your saw. 


Warranty once called for replacement tailgate cables on my truck. Did I throw a fit when the dealership said I had to have them install the cables or else I had to buy them? No, took it for what it was and had them replaced. Now a tailgate cable problem is something we should get upset over, it's not exactly a sophisticated piece of machinery.....

And FYI, you can buy any saw regardless of model and have carb problems.... See them across the board no matter the manufacturer. That's why you get a warranty....


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## TK (Jan 28, 2014)

The technology that is failing IS NOT NEW IN ANY WAY. The technology that is failing is a carburetor. Been on saws since the beginning. What is, in fact working, and working fine - is the new technology that is being blamed because it's the easiest thing to point at. 

We have made simple physical/mechanical changes to these carburetors and the problems are lessening more and more as we go. We will probably have this problem solved before husky, so stay tuned. When husky solves it, warranty will likely repair your saw. 


Warranty once called for replacement tailgate cables on my truck. Did I throw a fit when the dealership said I had to have them install the cables or else I had to buy them? No, took it for what it was and had them replaced. Now a tailgate cable problem is something we should get upset over, it's not exactly a sophisticated piece of machinery.....

And FYI, you can buy any saw regardless of model and have carb problems.... See them across the board no matter the manufacturer. That's why you get a warranty....


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 28, 2014)

I don't remember seeing either an air vent in the baffle nor anything in the instructions pertaining to this. I will have to go read the instructions again to see what I missed. I do remember not seeing a winter ir shutter when I took the hood off the first time. I found that pretty strange given that every saw I've come across in the last 20 years has an air shutter somewhere...


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 28, 2014)

Could this be an icing or density issue.


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## SCHallenger (Jan 28, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> I don't remember seeing either an air vent in the baffle nor anything in the instructions pertaining to this. I will have to go read the instructions again to see what I missed. I do remember not seeing a winter ir shutter when I took the hood off the first time. I found that pretty strange given that every saw I've come across in the last 20 years has an air shutter somewhere...



It's there, but it is not a shutter. Look at the right side of the firewall (or whatever it is called) & you will see an indented circle with a fairly thick raised border around it. If I understand the directions correctly, you have to punch out the little circle & then replace it with a plug which does not come with the saw! There is a warning that running the saw with the plug removed may result in "damage to the engine from overheating". I hesitated to remove the little circle unless I had the replacement plug in case I wanted to cut in temps above 30deg.F. I checked with my dealer today about the availability of the replacement plugs. They are on back order until March?!!?


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 28, 2014)

I'll have to take a look. I was thinking of a round rubber plug with grommet a edge I came across awhile back, that if proper size would work. Now If I could remember why/where/how I came across it or where... I can't believe that this wouldn't be included, especially if temp makes that big of a difference on engine performance. I guess it bothers me more that my dealer didn't know the saw well enough to point this out and inform me about the plug if aftermarket purchase was required. Why in the hell would the manufacturer make the provision for a plug, but then not include it? I may be ranting but that really bothers me.


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## Ozhoo (Jan 28, 2014)




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## MountainHigh (Jan 28, 2014)

Looks like I'm going to have to educate my dealer, *AGAIN*, just to buy this 562xp 

Any issues with Stihl m-tronic cropping up yet? (not wishing to fan flames, just also looking at ms362 c-m)

*BIG* thanks to TK and mweba and other guys working on this EL46 carb problem.


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## SCHallenger (Jan 28, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> I'll have to take a look. I was thinking of a round rubber plug with grommet a edge I came across awhile back, that if proper size would work. Now If I could remember why/where/how I came across it or where... I can't believe that this wouldn't be included, especially if temp makes that big of a difference on engine performance. I guess it bothers me more that my dealer didn't know the saw well enough to point this out and inform me about the plug if aftermarket purchase was required. Why in the hell would the manufacturer make the provision for a plug, but then not include it? I may be ranting but that really bothers me.



Me too! I think a rant or two is in order here! Why they didn't design it with a swing-open-close arrangement without the need for an additional part seems like a Rube Goldberg ( whoops, we forgot about that) design.


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## SCHallenger (Jan 28, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> Looks like I'm going to have to educate my dealer, *AGAIN*, just to buy this 562xp
> 
> Any issues with Stihl m-tronic cropping up yet? (not wishing to fan flames, just also looking at ms362 c-m)
> 
> *BIG* thanks to TK and mweba and other guys working on this EL46 carb problem.


+1 on the thanks to TK & Mitch!


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## OnTheRoad (Jan 29, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> First off, I'm not bashing the 562 as I love mine and as it's broken in, it's only become more mean. My question involves the off-idle throttle application: do any other 562 owners have issues with off-throttle acceleration? My saw always starts easily, runs out nicely (once warm) and cuts well beyond it's displacement. However, once properly warmed up and throughout each tank, if it idles for any period of time, when I hit the throttle, it initially bogs for a second or two and then catches and runs out fine, almost like it's either flooding or going extremely lean. No other issues and warm starts are just as easy as cold starts. I'm running fresh 87-91 octane gas and the Woodland Pro synthetic at a 40:1 blend. None of my other saws are exhibiting any problems off of the same mix. Any ideas sawyers?


Just curious, but why is everybody so concerned about "throttle response" on an engine that does 100% of it's work at WFO throttle position?


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## hamish (Jan 30, 2014)

OnTheRoad said:


> Just curious, but why is everybody so concerned about "throttle response" on an engine that does 100% of it's work at WFO throttle position?


Check out a data capture of the throttle position on an AT saw. WOT is minimal for the most part, unless a firewood cutter working at a processor or a pile.


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 30, 2014)

OnTheRoad said:


> Just curious, but why is everybody so concerned about "throttle response" on an engine that does 100% of it's work at WFO throttle position?


I don't walk around with the saw WOT all of the time, it's a limbing saw for me. I'm always on and off of the trigger and putting the saw down to move branches. When the saw stumbles on it's face upon trying to accelerate, it pisses me off. Especially when it just dies after idling for 20-30 seconds. A properly tuned saw shouldn't do that.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Jan 30, 2014)

Besides the fact you spend some good $$ for these saws, you would expect to get what you pay for.


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## TK (Jan 30, 2014)

When limbing, I find throttle response to be the most important feature on the saw. Especially if the problem at hand is causing the saw to stall completely when you hit the throttle.


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## OnTheRoad (Jan 30, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> I don't walk around with the saw WOT all of the time, it's a limbing saw for me. I'm always on and off of the trigger and putting the saw down to move branches. When the saw stumbles on it's face upon trying to accelerate, it pisses me off. Especially when it just dies after idling for 20-30 seconds. A properly tuned saw shouldn't do that.


I understand what you are saying. My 562 idles perfectly and works perfectly at WFO throttle, but it doesn't free rev quite as quickly as a perfectly tuned "dumb" saw. Yet mine can idle for minutes at a time and the instantly get to work with a snap of the trigger. Hopefully the solutions that the guys on this board are working on will solve your issues for you.


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## OnTheRoad (Jan 30, 2014)

hamish said:


> Check out a data capture of the throttle position on an AT saw. WOT is minimal for the most part, unless a firewood cutter working at a processor or a pile.


I must be mistaken, but I've always been told that chainsaws should be operated WFO when cutting. Is that not the case?


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## hamish (Jan 30, 2014)

OnTheRoad said:


> I must be mistaken, but I've always been told that chainsaws should be operated WFO when cutting. Is that not the case?


While in the cut yes, limbing is a whole different ball game, and the time spent between the cuts and the transition period equates to a lot of time. Seeing actual run time hours and run times at different throttle positions is part of the AT games. 

What do you mean by free revs? Just so we are on the same page.


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 30, 2014)

OnTheRoad said:


> I must be mistaken, but I've always been told that chainsaws should be operated WFO when cutting. Is that not the case?


 
Well, technically it's not good on ANY engine to be operated WOT all of the time. When limbing, I use the amount of throttle I need according to the application. The are a lot of times where I only use part throttle or sometimes just enough to spin the chain when doing delicate work. WOT causes you to lose a lot of control when in tight/precarious confines. Sure there are a lot of times when I operate at or near WOT, but I'd say that its less than 25% of the time. If I sounded like a smart ___ earlier, I apologize as I had never heard anyone ask that question before. I will say that my bigger saws (cutting only bigger wood 20"-50") yes they're generally run between 75-100% most of the time given their tasking and load. Limbing however, especially when working by yourself or with only one other person, dictates that you will be on and off the throttle all day with lots of part throttle conditions. When you've paid $700+ for a pro-saw which is supposed to run more efficiently than a carbed saw, it tends to make a person mad when it won't idle and when it falls on it's face after pulling the trigger. Even more so when the saw started out running right. I am pretty convinced that it is temp related as above 32F the saw runs perfectly. Below that temp, especially in damp conditions, the saw has nothing but problems.


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 30, 2014)

OnTheRoad said:


> I must be mistaken, but I've always been told that chainsaws should be operated WFO when cutting. Is that not the case?



I should have read your post more carefully. I believe what you're referring to is the process of running the saw WOT in a decent log at least once each time you're cutting to make the AT system adjust itself for the the climactic conditions of the day. And to answer that, YES you should. However you don't need to and shouldn't have to run it WOT for all cutting applications.


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## stihlonlynow (Jan 30, 2014)

Subb


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## Junkfxr (Jan 31, 2014)

I hadn't thought about it until I read it here. I bought my saw in the spring and used it mostly doing storm clean up during the summer. It ran great with only minor hesitation during the summer but when I got it out this winter is when all of the problems started. So yes, seems temperature related. As for recommended cold weather operation, having to punch out a scored hole in the plastic intermediate wall then plug it in the warmer months with a plug that's not supplied and won't be available until spring, all of this makes it sound like it's a tropical saw. How do you develop a saw in Sweden to be a tropical saw? As was stated earlier, that's my biggest gripe is paying almost $800 for a PRO saw expecting PROformance and having to baby it just to get it to run. I work a lot of blow downs and clean up and I need to give most of my attention to what's going on around me and not to making the saw run. This saw dying when I hit the throttle, especially when chasing a cut in some twisted blow down on a house, has cause a lot of problems, not to mention getting it stuck as the tree rolls or springs under tension.


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## hamish (Jan 31, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> As for recommended cold weather operation, having to punch out a scored hole in the plastic intermediate wall then plug it in the warmer months with a plug that's not supplied and won't be available until spring, all of this makes it sound like it's a tropical saw. How do you develop a saw in Sweden to be a tropical saw?


 
How many plugs so you want? Where are you trying to order your plugs from? I have never gotten a 545/550/555/562 without the winter kit in the box.


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## TK (Jan 31, 2014)

Winter kits are like five bucks. Comes with plugs for summertime use.


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## XSKIER (Jan 31, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> I hadn't thought about it until I read it here. I bought my saw in the spring and used it mostly doing storm clean up during the summer. It ran great with only minor hesitation during the summer but when I got it out this winter is when all of the problems started. So yes, seems temperature related. As for recommended cold weather operation, having to punch out a scored hole in the plastic intermediate wall then plug it in the warmer months with a plug that's not supplied and won't be available until spring, all of this makes it sound like it's a tropical saw. How do you develop a saw in Sweden to be a tropical saw? As was stated earlier, that's my biggest gripe is paying almost $800 for a PRO saw expecting PROformance and having to baby it just to get it to run. I work a lot of blow downs and clean up and I need to give most of my attention to what's going on around me and not to making the saw run. This saw dying when I hit the throttle, especially when chasing a cut in some twisted blow down on a house, has cause a lot of problems, not to mention getting it stuck as the tree rolls or springs under tension.


Flimsy?


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 31, 2014)

hamish said:


> How many plugs so you want? Where are you trying to order your plugs from? I have never gotten a 545/550/555/562 without the winter kit in the box.



I got 2 562's and a 550 all without a winter kit maybe the dealer took the one for the 550 but the 562's came to my house in sealed boxes.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## Junkfxr (Jan 31, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> Junkfxr said:
> 
> 
> > How many plugs so you want? Where are you trying to order your plugs from? I have never gotten a 545/550/555/562 without the winter kit in the box.
> ...


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## Junkfxr (Jan 31, 2014)

Boy, that post got all messed up with the quotes.


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## dl5205 (Jan 31, 2014)

"...we put a man on the moon..."

This line should be mandatory for any AS rant.


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## hamish (Jan 31, 2014)

Junkfxr,

Sorry you are having a bad go with your saw. You are one of the exceptions, there are not alot of them out there with issues (if you want to argue this one we can play the numbers game with production numbers and number of units built). You have a bad dealer plain and simple. Go buy a M-Tronic, they really need people to start buying them bad.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 31, 2014)

hamish said:


> Junkfxr,
> Go buy a M-Tronic, they really need people to start buying them bad.


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## SCHallenger (Jan 31, 2014)

TK said:


> Winter kits are like five bucks. Comes with plugs for summertime use.


According to the web site at the dealership where I bought my 562, the plugs are on back order until March. Even the dealer was surprised to find that at least a plug was not included in the kit that came with saw. The kit included a tube of grease, grease gun, scrench, mini-scrench, & an allen wrench.


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## MarkEagleUSA (Jan 31, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> Even the dealer was surprised to find that at least a plug was not included in the kit that came with saw. The kit included a tube of grease, grease gun, scrench, mini-scrench, & an allen wrench.


From what I can tell the "winter kit" is separate from the "tool kit" that comes with the saw.

According to the IPL, the winter kit is p/n 522 98 65-02. The plug itself is 503 40 59-01.


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## SCHallenger (Jan 31, 2014)

MarkEagleUSA said:


> From what I can tell the "winter kit" is separate from the "tool kit" that comes with the saw.
> 
> According to the IPL, the winter kit is p/n 522 98 65-02.


I am sure you are right. The "winter kit" includes more than just the plug. It also includes a snow shield to keep snow from being sucked in. I think some of us are finding it strange & somewhat lacking that the basic saw does not have a provision for cold temp operation either by having an open-close type of window in the firewall, or, given the design, that they do not supply the plug (minus the shield) as part of the "tool kit".


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## MarkEagleUSA (Jan 31, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> provision for cold temp operation either by having an open-close type of window in the firewall, or, given the design, that they do not supply the plug (minus the shield) as part of the "tool kit".


If I have a chance tomorrow I'm going to see if I can come up with a "flap" that will rotate out of the way of the hole in the firewall and then be able to cover it back up. I'm thinking something tear-shaped fastened with a small machine screw & bolt that can't get lost like the plug could.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 31, 2014)

My dealer tells me that if we Cdn's buy US saws, your warranty is void up here. Maybe there is some different tuning to our saws and we get the winter kit and you don't? I have not bought yet so I can't verify, but _Hamish_ would know!

[edit]
I just read back on this thread and yes Hamish/a Cdn dealer, gets saws with "winter kit"

I've been poking around to see if there have been any breakthroughs on the carb issue yet - anyone?

.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 31, 2014)

I don't care about the shield but the plug would be nice


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## SCHallenger (Jan 31, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> I don't care about the shield but the plug would be nice
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb


Exactly!


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## TK (Jan 31, 2014)

The plug is a summer kit, technically. Worry about that later lol duct tape will cover a hole, guys.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 31, 2014)

TK said:


> The plug is a summer kit, technically. Worry about that later lol duct tape will cover a hole, guys.



oh no, a new saw and we're at duct tape already!  Does Husqvarna dealer supply it in the box? 

sorry, even as a long time Husky owner, I couldn't help myself 

.


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## hamish (Jan 31, 2014)

Gentlemen, the plug is not an obscure item. It has been used by Husqvarna for over 25 years, it shouldn't be hard to come by. 503 40 59-01 Husq 61/268/272 , accessory for 455/460, stock on Jonsered CS2141-2159 series of saws. It is cheaper to get one at an auto parts store than it is from mother orange ($5.99 here for one vs usually a chuckle and free at the auto parts counter, you need one for an 18mm hole so a 3/4" plug will work).

With respect to the warranty of saws bought abroad, technically it really depends where the saw was registered. However as the customer service infrastructure of Husqvarna North America is overlapped and one in the same, it doesn't really matter anymore. Warranty rules for the country in which the claim is being made however still stand.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 1, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> According to the web site at the dealership where I bought my 562, the plugs are on back order until March. Even the dealer was surprised to find that at least a plug was not included in the kit that came with saw. The kit included a tube of grease, grease gun, scrench, mini-scrench, & an allen wrench.



There was supposed to be a tool kit??? WTF? If the "kit" is supposed to be included, then I got screwed. I got the saw and then had the pleasure of buying to hard case just to have protection (which I realize is separate but for the price shouldn't be). The only thing that came with it was the directions... That's crap.


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## SCHallenger (Feb 1, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> There was supposed to be a tool kit??? WTF? If the "kit" is supposed to be included, then I got screwed. I got the saw and then had the pleasure of buying to hard case just to have protection (which I realize is separate but for the price shouldn't be). The only thing that came with it was the directions... That's crap.


Not even a scrench??!?


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## OnTheRoad (Feb 1, 2014)

hamish said:


> While in the cut yes, limbing is a whole different ball game, and the time spent between the cuts and the transition period equates to a lot of time. Seeing actual run time hours and run times at different throttle positions is part of the AT games.
> 
> What do you mean by free revs? Just so we are on the same page.


Free revving is when the operator quickly opens the throttle without a load on an engine. I wasn't understanding how severe the issues were with the faulty saws; mine free revs slightly slower than a perfectly tuned "dumb saw" but obviously that's not what is being discussed here.


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## sunfish (Feb 1, 2014)

No scrench Bryan, I'd find a new dealer!!!


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## TK (Feb 1, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> oh no, a new saw and we're at duct tape already!  Does Husqvarna dealer supply it in the box?
> 
> sorry, even as a long time Husky owner, I couldn't help myself
> 
> .


Just saying folks shouldn't be afraid of a little backordered part  buy some of that nice fancy rich people black duct tape and it will blend in, nobody will know. All I can afford is the standard silver cheap stuff.... 


Then again, I've never taken the top cover off a saw and said "hey man, check this out...."


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## hamish (Feb 1, 2014)

For what its worth I have yet to see a 500 series saw (apart from a 576) that has had the knock out.............knocked out. Its been cold outside the igloo recently, but the saws are still cutting fine.


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## MarkEagleUSA (Feb 1, 2014)

hamish said:


> you need one for an 18mm hole so a 3/4" plug will work


I checked mine today and it appears to be a 1/2" knockout.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 1, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> Not even a scrench??!?


No.


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## sunfish (Feb 1, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> No.


Get a different dealer.

And get the dang saw fixed!!!


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

Y'all having fun yet?


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## SCHallenger (Feb 1, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Y'all having fun yet?


Not really! Some of us are irritated & we're becoming irritating to others. Reminds me of hemorrhoids!?!


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

I love AT saws. 

I was very frustrated when 3 out of 6 562s I ported ended up with the same issue. But, it's been found to be a simple carb issue.....and any saw engine by any manufacturer can have those same problems. 

Hamish talks about the sheer number of AT saws Husky has sold being so much higher than the M-Tronics that Stihl has sold. Of course that is true, but Stihl was only selling MT on the 441 for the last several years. Now that they have made more models with MT we will surely see their sale of that technology increase.......what I'm wondering, is how many issues their system will have when they start selling more.


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## SCHallenger (Feb 1, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I love AT saws.
> 
> I was very frustrated when 3 out of 6 562s I ported ended up with the same issue. But, it's been found to be a simple carb issue.....and any saw engine by any manufacturer can have those same problems.
> 
> Hamish talks about the sheer number of AT saws Husky has sold being so much higher than the M-Tronics that Stihl has sold. Of course that is true, but Stihl was only selling MT on the 441 for the last several years. Now that they have made more models with MT we will surely see their sale of that technology increase.......what I'm wondering, is how many issues their system will have when they start selling more.



I don't know if you have looked at the thread describing the 441 MT problems, but a whole boatload of posts have been made. It seem that many of them want to stall out, if they have been idling for 20sec or so, as soon as they are picked up from the ground. Everyone with this issue has described the same identical behavior, or should I say misbehavior!


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

Easy Hoss. 

I never said there were zero issues with M-Tronic. 

Did I mention that I think 5100s are pure junk?


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## MountainHigh (Feb 1, 2014)

My dealer has a few palettes of new saws coming in this next week. I expect is still too early to think that Husky will have found and fixed the carb problems in anything being delivered at this time, sooooo, if taking a flyer and buying 555 or 562xp today ahead of something official from Husky on a carb fix, is there *ANY* way of getting one with the EL44 carb from the get go, or have they only ever come with EL46?

Is it better to buy an early second gen or get the latest version available, or ....... continue to wait this issue out? I'm not keen on parking a new saw toy with the dealer for weeks, in the off chance I get stuck with one of the dreaded stumblers or hesitators. 3 out of 6 saws with carb problems is pretty lousy odds.



Mastermind said:


> I love AT saws.
> I was very frustrated when 3 out of 6 562s I ported ended up with the same issue. But, it's been found to be a simple carb issue.....and any saw engine by any manufacturer can have those same problems.



thx

-


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## MarkEagleUSA (Feb 1, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> 3 out of 6 saws with carb problems is pretty lousy odds.


Keep in mind that's 3 out of 6 _*ported*_ saws...


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

True


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## hamish (Feb 1, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> My dealer has a few palettes of new saws coming in this next week. I expect is still too early to think that Husky will have found and fixed the carb problems in anything being delivered at this time, sooooo, if taking a flyer and buying 555 or 562xp today ahead of something official from Husky on a carb fix, is there *ANY* way of getting one with the EL44 carb from the get go, or have they only ever come with EL46?
> 
> Is it better to buy an early second gen or get the latest version available, or ....... continue to wait this issue out? I'm not keen on parking a new saw toy with the dealer for weeks, in the off chance I get stuck with one of the dreaded stumblers or hesitators. 3 out of 6 saws with carb problems is pretty lousy odds.
> -



There isn't a carb problem, nor is there an AT problem. There is an ability to read and comprehend problem. Talk stock saws or talk modded saws, then see where we stand.


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## TK (Feb 1, 2014)

I ran the el44 on the ported 562 today and it performed flawlessly. Correct nozzle and slight turn of the throttle plate. 

I ran the faulty el46 on a new non-ported 562 also, symptoms still exist. Slightly lesser than on the ported saw, but still pretty bad. Also running a different AT module.


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

Oh yes Hamish, there is a carb issue. Not only on ported saws either. Just because you've yet to see it, and Husky denies it, does not mean it doesn't exist.


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## MountainHigh (Feb 1, 2014)

MarkEagleUSA said:


> Keep in mind that's 3 out of 6 _*ported*_ saws...



Agreed. So am I correct that the process of porting brings the carb issues to the surface, likely due to more fuel being demanded than a non-ported saw?

Still, if buying asap, are there any differences in generations of 562 series saws with this issue? Newest - oldest - in between versions - are some from each batch randomly exhibiting it the same? 

*Seems very odd to me that if it's a standard single carb issue that is used in all the 562xp's, why haven't all the saws exhibited a similar problem* 
Logic would suggest that either some 562xp's have slightly different carbs, OR there is something else also in play.

-


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

The issues began showing up after the EL46 was fitted......


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## hamish (Feb 1, 2014)

TK said:


> I ran the el44 on the ported 562 today and it performed flawlessly. Correct nozzle and slight turn of the throttle plate.
> 
> I ran the faulty el46 on a new non-ported 562 also, symptoms still exist. Slightly lesser than on the ported saw, but still pretty bad. Also running a different AT module.


Tom
You have me completely lost ............you ran a faulty carb and the symptom still existed.......................well of course it will the carb is faulty. Slap on a new EL46 and what happens?


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## MountainHigh (Feb 1, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> The issues began showing up after the EL46 was fitted......


serial numbers? How can I identify the saws that did not get the el46? seems like anything new is off limits until el46 gets fixed then?


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

hamish said:


> Tom
> You have me completely lost ............you ran a faulty carb and the symptom still existed.......................well of course it will the carb is faulty. Slap on a new EL46 and what happens?



If there are no carb issues, how can there be a faulty carb? Now you've lost me.


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## hamish (Feb 1, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Oh yes Hamish, there is a carb issue. Not only on ported saws either. Just because you've yet to see it, and Husky denies it, does not mean it doesn't exist.


Randy

What happened to all the similar hesitation issues with the EL44, now suddenly the EL44 is the king carb for the 562.


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

The 46 has much worse troubles.


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## MustangMike (Feb 1, 2014)

I know people love the 562 when it runs right, but between the isolated carb problems and NOT COMING WITH A COLD AIR SYSTEM I am glad I purchased my MS 362 C-M. The last time I ran it I did flip the panel for cold weather operation and it did fine.

Can't believe the Cold Air Kit does not come with the saw, and it is a "removable" stopper that you can easily loose. I would have been pissed if I learned about this after buying a 562, and frankly my dealer was recommending one of these and never mentioned this to me. I'm going to have to have a word with him.

Glad I got the 362:

Comes with Cold Air System (that says in the saw)

Easier Start Procedure (push the control lever down and pull the cord, no purge bubble, half choke, full choke)

The saw starts easy, idles fine, and runs very strong. I'm very pleased with my decision.


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## MountainHigh (Feb 1, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I know people love the 562 when it runs right, but between the isolated carb problems and NOT COMING WITH A COLD AIR SYSTEM I am glad I purchase my MS 362 C-M. The last time I ran it I did flip the panel for cold weather operation and it did fine.
> 
> Can't believe the Cold Air Kit does not come with the saw, and it is a "removable" stopper that you can easily loose. I would have been pissed if I learned about this after buying a 562, and frankly my dealer was recommending one of these and never mentioned this to me. I'm going to have to have a word with him.
> 
> ...




I think I'll just duck down behind this table over here  opcorn:

-


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## Mastermind (Feb 1, 2014)

I love the 562XP. 

It's a great saw, but if it is having a few carb issues, I'm not going to act like it's not happening. 

I've done 35 - 40 and never had any problems......till the EL46 came along.


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## mweba (Feb 1, 2014)

The EL44 had hesitation issues in VERY limited numbers due to the throttle plate sealing to well. This was easily remedied buy a small modification. The EL46 on the other hand, in small numbers has been troublesome for stalling out of idle and hesitation. The stalling issue is remedied with a new nozzle while the hesitation fix has evaded us. One can either replace the 46 with a 44 or swap the nozzle and deal with it. 

Either way....Husky knows there is an issue. A new carb is in the pipeline. 

After a couple more pages, I'll quote this post again if a fix isn't found.

Sent via witchcraft using an unholy tool named the nexus 7 dos


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 1, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I know people love the 562 when it runs right, but between the isolated carb problems and NOT COMING WITH A COLD AIR SYSTEM I am glad I purchased my MS 362 C-M. The last time I ran it I did flip the panel for cold weather operation and it did fine.
> 
> Can't believe the Cold Air Kit does not come with the saw, and it is a "removable" stopper that you can easily loose. I would have been pissed if I learned about this after buying a 562, and frankly my dealer was recommending one of these and never mentioned this to me. I'm going to have to have a word with him.
> 
> ...



Obviously you haven't read about the M-Tronic problems huh?


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## MustangMike (Feb 1, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I love the 562XP.
> 
> It's a great saw, but if it is having a few carb issues, I'm not going to act like it's not happening.
> 
> ...


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## MountainHigh (Feb 1, 2014)

mweba said:


> The EL44 had hesitation issues in VERY limited numbers due to the throttle plate sealing to well. This was easily remedied buy a small modification. The EL46 on the other hand, in small numbers has been troublesome for stalling out of idle and hesitation. The stalling issue is remedied with a new nozzle while the hesitation fix has evaded us. One can either replace the 46 with a 44 or swap the nozzle and deal with it.
> 
> Either way....Husky knows there is an issue. A new carb is in the pipeline.



Any idea of how long before the new carb will hit the street? Thanks a bunch for working on this issue!

-


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## hamish (Feb 1, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> The 46 has much worse troubles.


Play the numbers game.

Your experience with the EL46 562 is a 50% failure rate on a platform modified by yourself.

The EL46 has been used in production since mid August 2012. Its February 2014. The vast majority of users worldwide do not have any issues, or there would have been a smb or sb a long time ago.

Such an issue with the EL46, tell me whats the latest software revision for that carb?

If there were only 10 EL46 562 out there, and 5 had a problem, yes there would be a problem. 

In excess of 5000 made per year, give me a quantitative of how many have "issues".


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## MustangMike (Feb 1, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> Obviously you haven't read about the M-Tronic problems huh?
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb



I believe the same companies make the carbs for both saws, so I'm sure they can both have occasional problems. My point was that selling a Professional Level Saw that does not come with the stuff to convert it back and forth between hot and cold air operation is, in my opinion, "inexcusable". I did not know about it when I purchased my 362, but it is another reason that I am glad I did purchase that saw instead.

I'm glad I have not had any problems, and I am also happy for anyone that has a 562 that runs great. But is just seems to me like Husky is slipping a little at the switch with these things.


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 1, 2014)

In 19 years of running saws and 16 years of tree work i've never used a winter kit or opened and closed a shutter so i guess it isn't really important. I was just wondering why some got it and i didn'tl


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## mweba (Feb 1, 2014)

hamish said:


> Play the numbers game.
> 
> Your experience with the EL46 562 is a 50% failure rate on a platform modified by yourself.
> 
> ...



I've had six sent to me Ported by others and god knows how many YouTube inquiries about the issue.... Ported or not. It is a limited number of saws, like every manufacturing defect it doesn't affect them all. Porting just pushes the aggravation. Husky has a new carb on the way.................................…..............they know.......


I respect you and your knowledge yet either admit an issue exists or offer a remedy. Talking in circles does no one any good 

Sent via witchcraft using an unholy tool named the nexus 7 dos


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## RedFir Down (Feb 2, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> Seems very odd to me that if it's a standard single carb issue that is used in all the 562xp's, why haven't all the saws exhibited a similar problem
> Logic would suggest that either some 562xp's have slightly different carbs, OR there is something else also in play.


Here's the way I understand it... The carbs are Zama's (made by/for Stihl) and they cant seem to pull there head out a manufacture a consistent carb!!!
The more I read and talk to others about the issues with zama carbs on several different models and brands the less I care for them!!!


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## MustangMike (Feb 2, 2014)

I believe you are correct, which is a shame. The Zama on my 044 went 18 years w/o a rebuild. The rebuild kit was $11 and I spent $2.50 for new springs for the High & Low adjustment screws, and it runs like new again. 

I believe they are made in Japan. Hopefully the quality control issues that seem to be dogging some 562 and 441s can be resolved. They are both good saws when they run right.


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## MustangMike (Feb 2, 2014)

I believe you are correct, which is a shame. The Zama on my 044 went 18 years w/o a rebuild. The rebuild kit was $11 and I spent $2.50 for new springs for the High & Low adjustment screws, and it runs like new again. 

I believe they are made in Japan. Hopefully the quality control issues that seem to be dogging some 562 and 441s can be resolved. They are both good saws when they run right.


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## hamish (Feb 2, 2014)

Basically if you have a ported or YouTubed 562 you will have issues. With ported saws there is obviously an issue with a 50% (cant say failure but...inconsistent or just runs like crap). The answer to all of this in my belief in the mapping in within the module. Modifying its inputs can be a temporary solution. Changing pop off pressure etc.... changes its inputs, thus affecting its mapping. 

Lets work on a stock saw that the technology was designed for. Then apply it to modded saws and work within it.

Mitch, Tom, hell even Randy! I too respect the work you do and your knowledge you all have. 

We are trying to use conventional means to solve a possible problem that requires an interface.


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## MustangMike (Feb 2, 2014)

hamish said:


> Basically if you have a ported or YouTubed 562 you will have issues. With ported saws there is obviously an issue with a 50% (cant say failure but...inconsistent or just runs like crap). The answer to all of this in my belief in the mapping in within the module. Modifying its inputs can be a temporary solution. Changing pop off pressure etc.... changes its inputs, thus affecting its mapping.
> 
> Lets work on a stock saw that the technology was designed for. Then apply it to modded saws and work within it.
> 
> ...




You can go to the Husky website and see people with stock saws reporting the same problems. I know the majority of them run fine, but the problem is not specific to modified saws. I believe some of the more knowledgeable individuals on this website have identified the flawed part in the carbs, and now it is just a matter of Husky/Zama fixing the problem. Hopefully it will be resolved soon and we can just debate saw performance, etc.


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## MountainHigh (Feb 2, 2014)

RedFir Down said:


> Here's the way I understand it... The carbs are Zama's (made by/for Stihl) and they cant seem to pull there head out a *manufacture a consistent carb*!!!
> The more I read and talk to others about the issues with zama carbs on several different models and brands the less I care for them!!!



Ahhhh .... Now that is starting to make some more sense - thanks

-


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## RedFir Down (Feb 2, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> and now it is just a matter of Husky/Zama fixing the problem


Or how about Stihl/Zama figure out how build a consistent carb??... Better yet Husky should be looking a Walbro or Tillitson for this aplication!


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## MountainHigh (Feb 2, 2014)

So does the new ms362 c-m also use the same zama el46 carb?


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## RedFir Down (Feb 2, 2014)

hamish said:


> Basically if you have a ported or YouTubed 562 you will have issues. With ported saws there is obviously an issue with a 50% (cant say failure but...inconsistent or just runs like crap). The answer to all of this in my belief in the mapping in within the module. Modifying its inputs can be a temporary solution. Changing pop off pressure etc.... changes its inputs, thus affecting its mapping.
> 
> Lets work on a stock saw that the technology was designed for. Then apply it to modded saws and work within it.
> 
> ...


Sound to me like Husky needs form a huddle!!!
And yes the one's here have sure went above and beyond trying very hard to get this issue figured out! Which im sure are not getting any sort of kick back from Husky... I mean come on they are doing all of the leg work for the ones at Husky getting paid big bucks im sure!


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## Mastermind (Feb 2, 2014)

Damn software dropped me from the alert process again. 

I hate this new forum.....


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## zogger (Feb 2, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Damn software dropped me from the alert process again.
> 
> I hate this new forum.....



I am the opposite, do not want email notifications fer nuthin'. hahahah email is for old people! heheheheh...can't get it to quit the notifications from private "conversations". Luckily I don't get them from any threads.


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## Mastermind (Feb 2, 2014)

So it sucks for us both?


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## Mastermind (Feb 2, 2014)

I've kicked the barn stall as hard as I can. It's never gonna be fixed it seems.


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## hamish (Feb 2, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> So it sucks for us both?


At least you have a purple shirt Randy. I get email alerts for posts I'm not even following.


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## Mastermind (Feb 2, 2014)

There's no way in hell I can keep up with the threads I'd like to here. 

Firewood Hoarders have this same software.......I don't spend any time there because the alert system sucks.......


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## boxygen (Feb 2, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I know people love the 562 when it runs right, but between the isolated carb problems and NOT COMING WITH A COLD AIR SYSTEM I am glad I purchased my MS 362 C-M. The last time I ran it I did flip the panel for cold weather operation and it did fine.
> 
> Can't believe the Cold Air Kit does not come with the saw, and it is a "removable" stopper that you can easily loose. I would have been pissed if I learned about this after buying a 562, and frankly my dealer was recommending one of these and never mentioned this to me. I'm going to have to have a word with him.
> 
> ...


 

So, Mike, let me see if I have this straight. You don't have a 562? People only seemed to find out that the cold weather kit even existed a few days ago. No one has ever reported a desire or need to have a cold weather kit. You are pissed that something nobody seems to need and didn't know existed wasn't offered to you? Strawman much?


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## MustangMike (Feb 2, 2014)

boxygen said:


> So, Mike, let me see if I have this straight. You don't have a 562? People only seemed to find out that the cold weather kit even existed a few days ago. No one has ever reported a desire or need to have a cold weather kit. You are pissed that something nobody seems to need and didn't know existed wasn't offered to you? Strawman much?



My logic is pretty straight forward. If the saw does not run better with the vent open (to heat the carb) in the cold weather, they would not have built that feature into the saw. If they built that feature into a Professional Level saw, it should be operational when you buy it. Isn't that why you pay the big bucks for a Professional Level Saw? Having only had Professional Level Stihls, they all came with that feature included (from my 20 year old 044 to my brand new 362 C-M). With the Arctic blast of cold we have had this year, I believe it is important. Again, we are not talking about "homeowner" saws, and yes I think the people selling them should be up to date on what features they do and do not have (or what costs extra to have and is back ordered till March).

Also, did you miss the posts of 562 owners complaining about having problems now that it is cold that they did not notice before?

Having a saw that only runs right in the warm weather is like having a fair weather friend. You really just don't need them.


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## hamish (Feb 2, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> My logic is pretty straight forward. If the saw does not run better with the vent open (to heat the carb) in the cold weather, they would not have built that feature into the saw. If they built that feature into a Professional Level saw, it should be operational when you buy it. Isn't that why you pay the big bucks for a Professional Level Saw? Having only had Professional Level Stihls, they all came with that feature included (from my 20 year old 044 to my brand new 362 C-M). With the Arctic blast of cold we have had this year, I believe it is important. Again, we are not talking about "homeowner" saws, and yes I think the people selling them should be up to date on what features they do and do not have (or what costs extra to have and is back ordered till March).
> 
> Also, did you miss the posts of 562 owners complaining about having problems now that it is cold that they did not notice before?
> 
> Having a saw that only runs right in the warm weather is like having a fair weather friend. You really just don't need them.


 
Now lets talk about the winter air filter, yes there is one.

Everything aside most user do not even know how the controls on a Stihl or Husqvarna work, homeowners and professionals alike. I have never seen a full winter kit installed on any saw. Stihl has them, nobody ever talks about them, and are an accessory, even up in Canada.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 2, 2014)

My 550 has all the winter bs with it.. I can run that saw in 100 degree weather and run it in -10 (I have) and have no issues what so ever. To me all the talk about the winter kit (being the easy fix) is people hoping that that could fix the issue. But in reality it's just masking the hidden issue that Mitch and TK and others are trying very hard to find and fix. Yes it sucks but give the guys time, they will get to the bottom of the issue.


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## Philip Wheelock (Feb 2, 2014)

Has anyone reported carburetor icing issues with their 562's? Maybe the heating port is only necessary when it's so cold that the entire winter kit, which contains the plug, is required. The Stihl MS440 manual describes a shutter in the filter cover for winter/summer operation, but neither of my 440's has one, and the filter covers don't have a place for one. Maybe Stihl determined later that the shutter wasn't necessary on that model; I've run them at 16ºF with no issues.

I'm convinced that Mitch & TK have narrowed the sole issue down to the carburetor and that the rest of the saw is fine.


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 2, 2014)

I've never used a winter kit or opened a shutter on any saw i've ever owned and never had a problem in the winter. Someone mentioned a winter kit and i said i never got one i probably wouldn't use it even if i got one.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## Mastermind (Feb 2, 2014)

Forget the winter kit.......


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## SCHallenger (Feb 2, 2014)

hamish said:


> Play the numbers game.
> 
> Your experience with the EL46 562 is a 50% failure rate on a platform modified by yourself.
> 
> ...


Could it be that there are many out with issues that are not being reported? Maybe some users do not consider the hesitation to be anything other than a minor annoyance.


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## SCHallenger (Feb 2, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> I've never used a winter kit or opened a shutter on any saw i've ever owned and never had a problem in the winter. Someone mentioned a winter kit and i said i never got one i probably wouldn't use it even if i got one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb


Besides my 562, I also have an MS261 & an MS201. They have a "slider window" for operation above or below 50deg.F. Whether or not they are needed I don't know, but I read manuals & follow directions. Right now they are set for low temp operation, & the saws are running fine. The 562XP manual states that the plug should be removed for operation below 32deg.F. Whether this would make any difference in the hesitation, bog, or dying issue being discussed & cussed in this thread, I have no idea. My guess is that it would not. The main point in the "to plug or unplug" is, if it is necessary for proper operation, why is the plug not included when the saw is purchased?


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## Philip Wheelock (Feb 2, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> ...if it is necessary for proper operation, why is the plug not included when the saw is purchased?


My guess is that, for most users, it's not necessary. For those in the Great Frozen North who may experience carburetor icing and other winter operation issues, there's the winter kit. Just like not everyone needs 3/4 wrap handlebars.


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## MustangMike (Feb 2, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> Besides my 562, I also have an MS261 & an MS201. They have a "slider window" for operation above or below 50deg.F. Whether or not they are needed I don't know, but I read manuals & follow directions. Right now they are set for low temp operation, & the saws are running fine. The 562XP manual states that the plug should be removed for operation below 32deg.F. Whether this would make any difference in the hesitation, bog, or dying issue being discussed & cussed in this thread, I have no idea. My guess is that it would not. The main point in the "to plug or unplug" is, if it is necessary for proper operation, why is the plug not included when the saw is purchased?



My point exactly. If the shudder is recommended below a certain temperature (and it is with both makers), then it should be included with a "Pro" saw. I read my instructions also, and when I decided I should use it I was glad it was there. Since my 20 yr old 044 has it, my 441 had it, and my new 362 has it I think that they must have been removed from that guys 440s. No way the saws were made without them.


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## sunfish (Feb 2, 2014)

My 562xp runs fine summer & winter. No need to plug or unplug anything!


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## MustangMike (Feb 2, 2014)

I think most of the people having problems likely have the faulty saws, and the temperature just escalates the problem.

But out of curiosity, what is the coldest temperature you have used you saw in Don?


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## sunfish (Feb 2, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I think most of the people having problems likely have the faulty saws, and the temperature just escalates the problem.
> 
> But out of curiosity, what is the coldest temperature you have used you saw in Don?


Around 20f. But I have better things to do than run a saw if any colder than 30f or so.


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## MustangMike (Feb 2, 2014)

I don't often do it either, but my cabin (in the Catskills) is 2 mi in on a 4 WD road, and sometimes you have to clear the path going up. The one time I went up it was 17 below. Not when I would choose to use the saw, but also not when I would want it to fail.

Good to hear from you Don, I'm going back to watch the Superbowl.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 2, 2014)

So does TK or anyone else need a "Not faulty, but running like crap", un-modded (un-molested/viloated/factory pristine, except for a removed muffler screen) saw for which to use as a test bed? I have NFK where my receipt is, so therefore, I have NO warranty as expressed by the local dealers... I don't mean to sound testy but I'm a bit pissed about being at an impasse. Warranty cards apparently mean nothing. Hell at this point I'll pay the shipping both ways.


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## hamish (Feb 2, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I don't often do it either, but my cabin (in the Catskills) is 2 mi in on a 4 WD road, and sometimes you have to clear the path going up. The one time I went up it was 17 below. Not when I would choose to use the saw, but also not when I would want it to fail.
> 
> Good to hear from you Don, I'm going back to watch the Superbowl.


-26F as registered by the AT module on a non "g" model with the knock out in place.


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## hamish (Feb 2, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> So does TK or anyone else need a "Not faulty, but running like crap", un-modded (un-molested/viloated/factory pristine, except for a removed muffler screen) saw for which to use as a test bed? I have NFK where my receipt is, so therefore, I have NO warranty as expressed by the local dealers... I don't mean to sound testy but I'm a bit pissed about being at an impasse. Warranty cards apparently mean nothing. Hell at this point I'll pay the shipping both ways.


Yep send it on up.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 2, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> So does TK or anyone else need a "Not faulty, but running like crap", un-modded (un-molested/viloated/factory pristine, except for a removed muffler screen) saw for which to use as a test bed? I have NFK where my receipt is, so therefore, I have NO warranty as expressed by the local dealers... I don't mean to sound testy but I'm a bit pissed about being at an impasse. Warranty cards apparently mean nothing. Hell at this point I'll pay the shipping both ways.


Try and go on the husky site and apply your vin. You should be able to set up your warranty that way. Best of luck.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 2, 2014)

hamish said:


> -26F as registered by the AT module on a non "g" model with the knock out in place.


Will that get my saw fixed and returned? Domestic US is one thing, but I'm not sure what KS-Canada-KS shipping would be...


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## hamish (Feb 2, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> Will that get my saw fixed and returned? Domestic US is one thing, but I'm not sure what KS-Canada-KS shipping would be...


No saw leaves this shop unfixed, unless that's how you want it. Shipping would be absurd, would gladly do it, but your best bet would be to reach out to dealers in country.


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## tlandrum (Feb 3, 2014)

register your warranty online and then ship it to one of us Husqvarna dealers here from the site. then after its fixed go back and tell your local dealer that you have a new dealer that will take care of your needs and you will not be needing his services any longer.


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## Philip Wheelock (Feb 3, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> ...Since my 20 yr old 044 has it, my 441 had it, and my new 362 has it I think that they must have been removed from that guys 440s. No way the saws were made without them.


The MS440 filter cover for the HD filter doesn't have a slide/shutter. The cover for the standard filter has it. Point is, if hamish is reporting that 562's are running at -26º F without carb icing, very few south of the Arctic Circle will likely need to open the warm air port for winter operation.


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## Ozhoo (Feb 3, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> serial numbers? How can I identify the saws that did not get the el46? seems like anything new is off limits until el46 gets fixed then?



For the 562


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## Junkfxr (Feb 3, 2014)

Ozhoo said:


> For the 562
> View attachment 332001


That's interesting. My first saw that I was having all of the problems with was ser.#2012 1800xxx, with an EL46. The one that Husky replaced it with is ser.#2012 2200xxx..... with an EL46. I've not had the chance to run the new one hard yet but just messing around with it, it seems A LOT better with not even a hint of hesitation. I guess we'll see after it gets some hard hours on it.


----------



## MountainHigh (Feb 3, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> That's interesting. My first saw that I was having all of the problems with was ser.#2012 1800xxx, with an EL46. The one that Husky replaced it with is ser.#2012 2200xxx..... with an EL46. I've not had the chance to run the new one hard yet but just messing around with it, it seems A LOT better with not even a hint of hesitation. I guess we'll see after it gets some hard hours on it.



Well if your replacement saw has no issues, then there must be something more to it than the EL46  unless it was a bad batch of EL46's. 

. . . . Hamish said he thinks Mapping may be the issue. Perhaps a combination of EL46 AND Mapping?

Please let us know how she runs asap.

-


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

hamish said:


> Tom
> You have me completely lost ............you ran a faulty carb and the symptom still existed.......................well of course it will the carb is faulty. Slap on a new EL46 and what happens?


My point was that it is in fact a faulty carburetor. It is not that the carburetor can perform fine on a stock saw but not a ported saw. The swapping of the AT modules shows that it is not an AT physical or firmware problem. It is solely a faulty carburetor in it's purest form.


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> Well if your replacement saw has no issues, then there must be something more to it than the EL46  unless it was a bad batch of EL46's.
> 
> . . . . Hamish said he thinks Mapping may be the issue. Perhaps a combination of EL46 AND Mapping?
> 
> ...


The EL46 isn't a complete design flaw or else the problems would be immediate and on every single saw. I would assume it to be a bad batch that for some reason shows problems after different amounts of runtime. Some will show problems earlier than others. Some may go for many many hours before hesitating. I do not believe the problem has anything at all to do with fuel mapping, but rather a function of the carburetor itself.


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## stihlonlynow (Feb 3, 2014)

Mustan11 said:


> I think most of the people having problems likely have the faulty saws, and the temperature just escalates the problem.
> 
> But out of curiosity, what is the coldest temperature you have used you saw in Don?


I doubt it. I ran -6 lastweekend after that I put the winter cover on and popped the knockout. Ran it in winter mode on Saturday at 30 and it didn't make ANY difference. Still stumbles the same.


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## stihlonlynow (Feb 3, 2014)

Mustan11 said:


> I think most of the people having problems likely have the faulty saws, and the temperature just escalates the problem.
> 
> But out of curiosity, what is the coldest temperature you have used you saw in Don?


I doubt it. I ran -6 lastweekend after that I put the winter cover on and popped the knockout. Ran it in winter mode on Saturday at 30 and it didn't make ANY difference. Still stumbles the same.


MountainHigh said:


> Well if your replacement saw has no issues, then there must be something more to it than the EL46  unless it was a bad batch of EL46's.
> 
> . . . . Hamish said he thinks Mapping may be the issue. Perhaps a combination of EL46 AND Mapping?
> 
> ...


----------



## Mastermind (Feb 3, 2014)

I think the winter kit is key. 

What do y'all think?


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## Mastermind (Feb 3, 2014)

Or, maybe a different weight of bar oil could be the just the ticket.


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

The EL44 at the moment, with a slight turn of the throttle plate, seems to be the best solution. Popping a new EL46 on there should also fix the problem. The problem looking to be remedied with a carb replacement is a hesitation to the point of stalling or almost stalling. A slight hesitation when nailing it from idle to WOT may be normal in different circumstances. When it's colder, it will tend to run a little leaner at idle or even throughout the band. The AT will compensate for this - unlike a standard carb unless you adjust it yourself. That slight hesitation may just be due to the throttle plate not flowing enough air over the transition holes. That is the reason I turn the plate on the EL44, hesitation eliminated. Doing the same for the 46 won't work, the notches don't line up properly. A new notch needs to be added to the plate. And - the only way the EL44 carb works on the newer saws that came with the EL46 is by swapping the AT module from the 46 to the 44 so it can communicate with the ignition coil.


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## mweba (Feb 3, 2014)

Do people read posts? Sometimes I wonder.


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

mweba said:


> Do people read posts? Sometimes I wonder.


tl;dr :"I have a potty mouth":


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## mweba (Feb 3, 2014)

mweba said:


> Do people read posts? Sometimes I wonder.



I'm sorry, what did you say?


----------



## mweba (Feb 3, 2014)

TK said:


> tl;dr :"I have a potty mouth":



5W30? is that the fix?


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## mweba (Feb 3, 2014)

I think you 


Mastermind said:


> I think the winter kit is key.
> 
> What do y'all think?


I think you have an unhealthy liking to a Wendell.


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## Mastermind (Feb 3, 2014)

Summer weight in the winter and vista versa ricky recardo.


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## Mastermind (Feb 3, 2014)

I love The Wendell. 

Is that so wrong? Well is it?????


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## mweba (Feb 3, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I love The Wendell.
> 
> Is that so wrong? Well is it?????



Hey swing any way you like.


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## tlandrum (Feb 3, 2014)

tl;dr


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

This thread sucks.


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## Mastermind (Feb 3, 2014)

mweba said:


> Hey swing any way you like.



It's my choice to make. 

Take that.


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> It's my choice to make.
> 
> Take that.



I was reading your sig. Could you rebuild my bottom end for $50?


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## Mastermind (Feb 3, 2014)

TK said:


> I was reading your sig. Could you rebuild my bottom end for $50?



Dude, there ain't no rebuilding that thing........maybe it could be sleeved?


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## mweba (Feb 3, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Dude, there ain't no rebuilding that thing........maybe it could be sleeved?


Glad you didn't say honed


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

It doesn't need a tattoo, Randy. What would a sleeved tattoo have to do with rebuilding my bottom? 

Bottom end, that is. Of course.


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## Mastermind (Feb 3, 2014)

We all know that honing can be a bit tricky.....and that bottom end is tricked out enough already.


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## Mastermind (Feb 3, 2014)

Sleeved, rebushed, relined......filled in with a track loader, then tamped. See where this is going?


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

For $50 I'll take it, where do I sign......


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## stihlonlynow (Feb 3, 2014)

Just like the state of the union address deja poo
I think k I have heard this scat before.
Maybe its this Stihl rs33 chain.
I think its too heavy for a husky and that's why mine falls flat on its face when you gas it. Lol
Sounds better than 5w30.
What even amuses me more is I am only going t have ONE carb. Not three.
Sorry Randy.


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## stihlonlynow (Feb 3, 2014)

Anyone got any el44 or el46 carbs on the shelf or in the scrap bin?


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## tlandrum (Feb 3, 2014)

ive got a brand new one of either flavor hanging on the parts rack.


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## hamish (Feb 3, 2014)

Its so much fun going back and reading 300+ posts, chase your tails for a few faulty carbs.

So lets sum things up.
The 562 is plagued by bad carbs, the EL46 is evil, Zama is bad, there will be changes Husky knows there is a problem, bad mojo, oh wait the EL46 does work.

There will not be a service bulleting nor a parts change with respect to this. Its a simple problem that has grown beyond belief thanks to the internet. The numbers don't support corrective action.


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

Well it's been fun and productive debunking the myth that AutoTune is a product placed here on earth by the devil himself and is inherently evil...... 



Now let's everyone remember this - The 562xp is on it's second version of carb. The Stihl 200T is on what, the 9th? GAME ON!


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## TK (Feb 3, 2014)

And hey - it would be worth every second of it if we could have found an easy and quick - along with inexpensive - solution to this problem. Nobody wants to wait for updates and changes, along with vague or inconclusive answers to their questions. 

Sometimes you're the bug. Sometimes you're the windsheild.


And sometimes you're the emmereffer driving the car


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## stihlonlynow (Feb 3, 2014)

Yeah its a zama bug. Aren't these carbs made in China by a parent company owned by Andreas? Oh yeah I bet they are gonna jump right on this. Bad news travels 100 times faster than good. So they can absorb the bad PR or fix the issue.


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## MustangMike (Feb 3, 2014)

I think your making fun of us Randy. Didn't someone already determine that it was a faulty part is some (not all) of the carbs? Isn't that the solution that got you to start porting them again? If that is the case can you help Locust Cutter out with this?

Thanks.


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## hamish (Feb 3, 2014)

The thing is the problem is not widespread as led to believe. Of course its worth every second, but sometimes you need to pull your ears out and take a look around at whats happening. 

You went for a simple cheap fix, primarily for those that have saws out of warranty, right on good for you guys.


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## hamish (Feb 3, 2014)

The thing is the problem is not widespread as led to believe. Of course its worth every second, but sometimes you need to pull your ears out and take a look around at whats happening. 

You went for a simple cheap fix, primarily for those that have saws out of warranty, right on good for you guys.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 3, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> register your warranty online and then ship it to one of us Husqvarna dealers here from the site. then after its fixed go back and tell your local dealer that you have a new dealer that will take care of your needs and you will not be needing his services any longer.


Put it this way Terry,
I will NOT be buying any new Huskies locally again and have spoken with many happy customers of yours. Consider me a convert.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 3, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I think your making fun of us Randy. Didn't someone already determine that it was a faulty part is some (not all) of the carbs? Isn't that the solution that got you to start porting them again? If that is the case can you help Locust Cutter out with this?
> 
> Thanks.


I'm going to talk with Randy and Terry. When warm outside, it stalls runs great. When cold it stalls horribly and usually dies after idling for more than 40 seconds. I will try to check the numbers tomorrow, but I have to assume that it has the EL46 as I bought the Saw in August and it had only sat on the rack for 3 months prior to that.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 3, 2014)

And for the record, this saw IS the most nimble feeling 60cc saw to me. When it runs right, it's nothing but grins and punches above it's displacement. I think that Dad and I will be adding a 550 before long to act as it's little brother, as I truly miss my 346.


----------



## ash man (Feb 3, 2014)




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## ash man (Feb 3, 2014)

locust I just got a 550 to keep my 346 company. I simply mm it and broke it in on wood for 3-5 minutes at WOT and have not experienced the off idle bogging problem.


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## Mastermind (Feb 4, 2014)

The 550 has a Walbro carb......and I've seen zero issues with it.


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## MustangMike (Feb 4, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> The 550 has a Walbro carb......and I've seen zero issues with it.



Randy, am I incorrect in my assumption that they found the problem with the 562 carbs? Both of these "wood guys" (ash man & Locust Cutter) are still having problems with their saws. Forget the Stihl / Husky debate, my heart hurts for them. Any recommendations?


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## MountainHigh (Feb 4, 2014)

freezin cold out there - just got back in from large wood haul - MustangMike, you're a stand up guy - Good on ya mate!

This thread has left me not knowing where things are really at. Going to see my dealer this week so maybe I'll push him for a chat with the Husky rep to get their 2 cents worth.


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## Mastermind (Feb 4, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Randy, am I incorrect in my assumption that they found the problem with the 562 carbs? Both of these "wood guys" (ash man & Locust Cutter) are still having problems with their saws. Forget the Stihl / Husky debate, my heart hurts for them. Any recommendations?



I've been in touch with Locust Cutter. If anyone needs my help.....I'm easy to contact.


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## MustangMike (Feb 4, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I've been in touch with Locust Cutter. If anyone needs my help.....I'm easy to contact.



Thanks Randy, you are indeed one of the valuable resources on this website. I hope his problems are resolved quickly.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 4, 2014)

MustangMike,
I appreciate your concern. As soon as I get a few priority bills paid, I will be sending it to Randy or Terry and very much appreciate both offering to help me. I could ship it now, but I need to save up the money to have the saw hot-rodded while there. After having run a ported 562, there is no going back. I can't in good faith ship it to TN, just to get it fixed and have it come back un-ported... That's just wrong.

Randy and Terry,
Do either of you cut the bases or do you do pop-ups? I ask because I like the concept of a lowered cylinder better than a pop-up, although it's based off of theoretical assumptions on my part.


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## Mastermind (Feb 4, 2014)

I don't do pop ups in any engines anymore, but the end result is too close to say one is better than the other. I'm just used to my setup, and that's the reason I always cut squish.


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## tlandrum (Feb 4, 2014)

we both cut the cylinder base. randy cuts the combustion chamber and i do a pop up piston. theres only a hand full of saws that i cut the chamber on. i will not cut the chamber on a 562xp or a 550xp. its not required to make one run well. if your looking for yours to have the chamber cut them randy is your man.send it to him he does good work.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 4, 2014)

Not trying to open a different can of worms but is a pop-up additional material added to the crown of the piston? If so, would that not not tax the crank bearings more than otherwise (granted modding any saw takes it well beyond design spec/expectations)... I don't mean to be obtuse, I'm simply looking for a modded work saw and am trying to learn the modification difference(s) between a work saw and a cookie cutter, as I just need a good work saw.


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## MustangMike (Feb 4, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> MustangMike,
> I appreciate your cncern. As soon as I get a few priority bills paid, I will be sending it to Randy or Terry and very much appreciate both offering to help me. I could ship it now, but I need to save up the money to have the saw hot-rodded while there. After having run a ported 562, there is no going back. I can't in good faith ship it to TN, just to get it fixed and have it come back un-ported... That's just wrong.
> 
> Rand and Terry,
> Do either of you cut the bases or do you do pop-ups? I ask because I like the concept of a lowered cylinder better than a pop-up, although it's based off of theoretical assumptions on my part.



Hey, I am glad if I was of some help, but I am not the knowledge base on this website. Proud to be part of it though, it is nice to know we have experts available when a problem arises. That is the beauty of belonging to this website.

So tell me, how did the ported 562 run compared to stock? Obviously you were impressed. I started a Thread on ported 362s, but there has been very little response. Seems like Stihl 261s and 441s get all the attention, and in the 60 cc class the 562 is the star. I think part of it is that M-Tronic is so new on the 362. The saw is very strong stock, but I always want a little more!

Best of Luck with your saw, and keep us posted.

MustangMike


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 4, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Hey, I am glad if I was of some help, but I am not the knowledge base on this website. Proud to be part of it though, it is nice to know we have experts available when a problem arises. That is the beauty of belonging to this website.
> 
> So tell me, *how did the ported 562 run compared to stock?* Obviously you were impressed. I started a Thread on ported 362s, but there has been very little response. Seems like Stihl 261s and 441s get all the attention, and in the 60 cc class the 562 is the star. I think part of it is that M-Tronic is so new on the 362. The saw is very strong stock, but I always want a little more!
> 
> ...



The biggest thing I miss about my old mm'ed 039 was the torque. My 562 has very good top-end, but doesn't quite pull the same (by my determination anyway) as the 039. The ported version spun up a bit faster than mine does (when not acting up) but really shined in the cut, the way it held RPM a good deal better than mine in 16" and bigger wood. It really was the missing piece of the puzzle to be the saw that I really wanted. I won't bash or brag on a 362 as I've only run one, once, to buck a 6" tree and the chain was toast... Not a fair test for that or any saw in any way. I like the feel of them and was raised on Stihl (after Mac's anyway), I simply liked the feel of the Husky a bit better. I would like to spend a day with a 362M-tronic, Dolmar 6100 and an Echo CS-600P, in a Hedge row to put them all through their paces and see if there truly was a clear winner, or loser to me, although I'll bet that they're all fine machines.


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## sunfish (Feb 4, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> Not trying to open a different can of worms but is a pop-up additional material added to the crown of the piston? If so, would that not not tax the crank bearings more than otherwise (granted modding any saw takes it well beyond design spec/expectations)... I don't mean to be obtuse, I'm simply looking for a modded work saw and am trying to learn the modification difference(s) between a work saw and a cookie cutter, as I just need a good work saw.


Pop-up is done by turning down the edge of the piston. This gets the squish & timing where it needs to be after lowering the cylinder.

Stumpy was the one adding material to the top of the piston, but he stopped that pretty quick.


----------



## MustangMike (Feb 4, 2014)

Locust Cutter, thanks for that feedback. I think AutoTune & M-Tronic are like stage one in improving a saw (to give it more power in the cut) and porting is like stage 2. I can't imagine my 362 would cut as well as it does w/o M-Tronic, and the feedback from individuals who have run 441s both with and without it support that viewpoint.

Sunfish, thanks for that info regarding cutting the piston edge to maintain proper timing, it all makes more sense now. However, as a "car" guy chainsaw engines still seem like mythical beasts to me. I don't know how you get away with removing stock from either a piston or crank without having the saw re-balanced, but apparently they do. I would not think of doing it with a car engine, and they only go to about 7,000 RPM. The chainsaw does 14,000, and no separate oil for the bearings, absolutely mystical!


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## sunfish (Feb 4, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Locust Cutter, thanks for that feedback. I think AutoTune & M-Tronic are like stage one in improving a saw (to give it more power in the cut) and porting is like stage 2. I can't imagine my 362 would cut as well as it does w/o M-Tronic, and the feedback from individuals who have run 441s both with and without it support that viewpoint.
> 
> Sunfish, thanks for that info regarding cutting the piston edge to maintain proper timing, it all makes more sense now. However, as a "car" guy chainsaw engines still seem like mythical beasts to me. I don't know how you get away with removing stock from either a piston or crank without having the saw re-balanced, but apparently they do. I would not think of doing it with a car engine, and they only go to about 7,000 RPM. The chainsaw does 14,000, and no separate oil for the bearings, absolutely mystical!


Mike, removing weight from the piston is a good thing in a 2 stroke, adding weight is not so good. These saws have roller bearings on the rod & crank, where car engines have bushing type bearings pumped up with oil pressure. Take the oil away and the car engine dies very quick. The roller bearings can run for awhile with little or no oil, but the piston can't. Roller bearings are great for very high RPM also.


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## MustangMike (Feb 4, 2014)

sunfish said:


> Mike, removing weight from the piston is a good thing in a 2 stroke, adding weight is not so good. These saws have roller bearings on the rod & crank, where car engines have bushing type bearings pumped up with oil pressure. Take the oil away and the car engine dies very quick. The roller bearings can run for awhile with little or no oil, but the piston can't. Roller bearings are great for very high RPM also.[/quote
> 
> Makes more sense now, thanks for that. Like I have said before, I am on this site to learn, and I'm learning a lot without having to tear an engine down. Thanks again.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 4, 2014)

sunfish said:


> Pop-up is done by turning down the edge of the piston. This gets the squish & timing where it needs to be after lowering the cylinder.
> 
> Stumpy was the one adding material to the top of the piston, but he stopped that pretty quick.




I've done 2 welded pop ups on 025s they gained a lot. Just gotta make sure to try and remove as much as you add from other places. I'm no pro by any means but some times there's no other option. Plus I like to weld on random things..


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## sunfish (Feb 4, 2014)

mx_racer428 said:


> I've done 2 welded pop ups on 025s they gained a lot. Just gotta make sure to try and remove as much as you add from other places. I'm no pro by any means but some times there's no other option. Plus I like to weld on random things..


Yep, it works. Removing what you add is key to it working.


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## MustangMike (Feb 4, 2014)

mx_racer428 said:


> I've done 2 welded pop ups on 025s they gained a lot. Just gotta make sure to try and remove as much as you add from other places. I'm no pro by any means but some times there's no other option. Plus I like to weld on random things..



That 428 is not referring to the old FE Cobra Jet is it?


----------



## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 4, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> That 428 is not referring to the old FE Cobra Jet is it?




No, 

Really has no relevance to anything. Just a user name I picked 10-15 years ago. Never really planned when I joined to be very active. Just had a few saw questions but have been hooked ever since. Probably would change the name if I could.


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 5, 2014)

sunfish said:


> Pop-up is done by turning down the edge of the piston. This gets the squish & timing where it needs to be after lowering the cylinder.
> 
> Stumpy was the one adding material to the top of the piston, but he stopped that pretty quick.


Ok... That's why I was asking as I remember the results of some of that early work... Well, to be equitable, as soon as money allows, I will send the 261 to Randy and the 562 to Terry in order to spread the patronage.


----------



## Junkfxr (Feb 5, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> Well if your replacement saw has no issues, then there must be something more to it than the EL46  unless it was a bad batch of EL46's.
> 
> . . . . Hamish said he thinks Mapping may be the issue. Perhaps a combination of EL46 AND Mapping?
> 
> ...



Well, I got a chance to take the new replacement saw out yesterday morning to cut a chestnut oak off of a fence. The tree was 30"+ diameter well over 12 feet up and I have a 20 inch bar so it was buried a great deal of the time. The temperature was in the mid 30's. Just like the old saw, it was really angry at the tree before it warmed up and stayed angry the whole time as long as it was at WOT. When I pulled the bar out of the cut after a few cuts and things were getting good and warm, let off of the throttle and the saw went back to idle at what sounded like 4000-5000 rpm. Interesting. Lets see how long it'll do this. Took most of a minute before it went back to normal idle. Hit the throttle for the next cut and it stumbled BAD, just like the old one. In fact, every time that I hit the throttle after idling, it would have the same huge hesitation if it didn't die. On one occasion, I sat it down to move some brush and it was idling just fine, then it died for no apparent reason. Had to use full choke to get it restarted. I did notice a puff of black smoke from time to time when it would hesitate coming off of idle, that sounds a little rich to me but it acted lean when it died idling. Does anybody know why the switch from EL44 to EL46 carbs? Emissions, hesitation, some other issues? This is two saws from different dealers that are doing the same thing. This sure is aggravating and getting old fast. I've heard from several different sources that Husky is working on a fix, sure wished they'd hurry up. I like the way that this saw handles and cuts when it's running good and want to keep it but I'm getting a little fed up with it.


----------



## MustangMike (Feb 5, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> Well, I got a chance to take the new replacement saw out yesterday morning to cut a chestnut oak off of a fence. The tree was 30"+ diameter well over 12 feet up and I have a 20 inch bar so it was buried a great deal of the time. The temperature was in the mid 30's. Just like the old saw, it was really angry at the tree before it warmed up and stayed angry the whole time as long as it was at WOT. When I pulled the bar out of the cut after a few cuts and things were getting good and warm, let off of the throttle and the saw went back to idle at what sounded like 4000-5000 rpm. Interesting. Lets see how long it'll do this. Took most of a minute before it went back to normal idle. Hit the throttle for the next cut and it stumbled BAD, just like the old one. In fact, every time that I hit the throttle after idling, it would have the same huge hesitation if it didn't die. On one occasion, I sat it down to move some brush and it was idling just fine, then it died for no apparent reason. Had to use full choke to get it restarted. I did notice a puff of black smoke from time to time when it would hesitate coming off of idle, that sounds a little rich to me but it acted lean when it died idling. Does anybody know why the switch from EL44 to EL46 carbs? Emissions, hesitation, some other issues? This is two saws from different dealers that are doing the This sure is aggravating and getting old fast. I've heard from several different sources that Husky is working on a fix, sure wished they'd hurry up. I like the way that this saw handles and cuts when it's running good and want to keep it but I'm getting a little fed up with it.



I believe some of our Gurus on this website have identified the problem and several of our Saw Builders know how to fix it, so you may want to contact them. Can't help you as to when Husky will catch up, bummer that you got 2 bad saws in a row. Confirms my suspicion that the problem is more with the newer saws than with the older ones. It is a shame, because everyone that has one that runs right is in love with that saw. I personally think the new Stihl Ms 362 C-M is just as good, but I have never run a 562. However, there is another member who has one of each, and he agreed with my assessment.

Good luck with your saw.


----------



## MustangMike (Feb 5, 2014)

Junkfxr, go see the posts at the end of the Thread "Anyone port a MS 362 C-M yet?" There is video regarding fixing your carb.


----------



## Ljute (Feb 5, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Or, maybe a different weight of bar oil could be the just the ticket.


 
My store only sells 1 gallon bottles.


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## ash man (Feb 5, 2014)

I took out my ported 2260 out yesterday afternoon to run it WOT in wood for 3-5 minutes to see if the AT would adjust. I'm not having as big of issues as some of the other guys on here, but it usually boggs a little coming of more than a 10 second idle. It was @30° out and after running for @4. minutes in wood wot it still would hesitate a little after it idles. Guess you can add my name to the list of people that got a new.pro saw with a sh-- carb.


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 5, 2014)

ash man said:


> I took out my ported 2260 out yesterday afternoon to run it WOT in wood for 3-5 minutes to see if the AT would adjust. I'm not having as big of issues as some of the other guys on here, but it usually boggs a little coming of more than a 10 second idle. It was @30° out and after running for @4. minutes in wood wot it still would hesitate a little after it idles. Guess you can add my name to the list of people that got a new.pro saw with a sh-- carb.



My 562 did that for about the first tank after that it worked itself out and has been fine since


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## ash man (Feb 5, 2014)

its probably had 3-5 tanks through it


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 5, 2014)

Mine is only muffler modded and no problems at all the 550 is the same way



Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## ash man (Feb 5, 2014)

I'm not sure.if modding these at saws helps perpetuate the carb issues. At least the ones with Zama carb.


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## hamish (Feb 5, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> let off of the throttle and the saw went back to idle at what sounded like 4000-5000 rpm. Interesting. Lets see how long it'll do this. Took most of a minute before it went back to normal idle. Hit the throttle for the next cut and it stumbled BAD, just like the old one. In fact, every time that I hit the throttle after idling, it would have the same huge hesitation if it didn't die. On one occasion, I sat it down to move some brush and it was idling just fine, then it died for no apparent reason. Had to use full choke to get it restarted. I did notice a puff of black smoke from time to time when it would hesitate coming off of idle, that sounds a little rich to me but it acted lean when it died idling. Does anybody know why the switch from EL44 to EL46 carbs? I've heard from several different sources that Husky is working on a fix,.


 
4-5000 rpm the clutch would be engaged, so most likely it was not that high rather a bit over 3000 rpm, till it transitioned back down. Normal in cold temperatures as the saws run leaner. When restarting, setting high idle didn't work?
The change to the EL46 was mainly to integrated a separate service plug, when the Zama part numbers are released we will know more.
Do you have the serial number of your old saw still?


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## Junkfxr (Feb 5, 2014)

hamish said:


> 4-5000 rpm the clutch would be engaged, so most likely it was not that high rather a bit over 3000 rpm, till it transitioned back down. Normal in cold temperatures as the saws run leaner. When restarting, setting high idle didn't work?
> The change to the EL46 was mainly to integrated a separate service plug, when the Zama part numbers are released we will know more.
> Do you have the serial number of your old saw still?




The clutch was engaged, chain spinning like crazy . It done that quite a few times. No, high idle didn't work for restarting it after it died idling. 2012 1800064


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## Alongshot (Feb 5, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> The clutch was engaged, chain spinning like crazy . It done that quite a few times. No, high idle didn't work for restarting it after it died idling. 2012 1800064



Whats the build date on your replacement saw?


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## Alongshot (Feb 5, 2014)

Junkfxr it looks like you have already posted it earlier, is this "ser.#2012 2200xxx" correct on what you have now? If so it looks like your first saw was 4weeks into the changeover to the EL46, your replacement was built 4 weeks after your first one. Both fairly early in EL46 switchover builds compared to today. The replacement may have been new off the shelf but its build date still over a year old.
Wondering if anyone like TK or Mitch has kept note of the build dates on the Saws they have been working on trying to fix, on the EL46 equipped saws? Maybe there was a bad batch in the beginning that the build #'s are close or is it just more random chance of happening?


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## Locust Cutter (Feb 5, 2014)

As posted on the other site...
I do applaud all efforts going into figuring this thing out. I never meant to demonize the saw in the least bit as I like it very much. It was a bit disconcerting at first hearing and feeling the saw adjust on-the-fly, in the cut, but knowing what it's doing is pretty cool. I had heard of a few people having similar issues as mine but figured that having bought 12 saws in my life, and this being the first with an issue, my odds have been uncannily good, relative to my usual acquaintance with Murphy and his law(s). I have no where near the level of 2-stroke knowledge of TK, Randy, Terry, Brad, Stumpy, Mike lee, etc, but am a gear-head at heart, so I like having at least a rudimentary understanding of the internal workings of my equipment. The posts I have made in this thread and the one one, were to try to express my unique observances and see if it helped those, smarter than me, to do some Monday morning quarterbacking. I was a bit pissed for a while, but I understand that it's likely a simple problem. Without having access to a manual to guide my troubleshooting (absent experience) this seemed to be the second best alternative. 

FWIW, I also had a 6.0 Powerstroke for a bit (knowing full good and well the potential issues thereof). What I did not know at the time of purchase however, was that the oil and egr coolers were BOTH blown (dealer has since been sued out of business, by others, for similar shady dealings). There were other minor issues, but coupled with the aforementioned, it was traded in on a Hyundai for the wife as a financial decision. Would I have anther 6.0? Sure, assuming the injectors/HPOP/VGT turbo were all healthy and that someone else had already sunk the $$$ into the studs, egr delete, external oil cooler and FICM upgrade. It's a lengthy list (much worse than a bad carb, air leak or A/T module) but that's what it takes to have a healthy truck from a realistic preventative maintenance perspective. I am NOT directly comparing the 562 directly to the 6.0, but comparisons can, (I think) fairly be drawn. Hell the S&W M&P autos had teething problems. I like the 1911 better, but it also had a 75+ year head-start in R&D and still isn't necessarily more reliable...

Thanks again to all and Terry, I will be in touch.


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## TK (Feb 6, 2014)

hamish said:


> The change to the EL46 was mainly to integrated a separate service plug, when the Zama part numbers are released we will know more.
> Do you have the serial number of your old saw still?



Mainly to integrate an easy access service plug but other changes definitely included a new main nozzle as well as throttle plate. Those are the obvious changes, who knows what else. Not sure why they made the extra changes..... But yes, the response from the top was to allow easier access to plugging in for diagnostics.


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## Mastermind (Feb 6, 2014)

I'll take bad batch of carbs for 500 Alex.


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## TK (Feb 6, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I'll take bad batch of carbs for 500 Alex.



Ya, more than likely popping a new EL46 on there will cure the AIDs or whatevers inside these things.


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## Junkfxr (Feb 6, 2014)

Yeah...well... how does one know if they have a NEW EL46? Just curious and purely showing ignorance here.


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## Mastermind (Feb 6, 2014)

The 562 ain't the only saw that ever was equipped with a funky running carb. But the 562 does get the most exposure from it.


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## Mastermind (Feb 6, 2014)

Junkfxr said:


> Yeah...well... how does one know if they have a NEW EL46? Just curious and purely showing ignorance here.



I think that a new carb would come in a Zama box....... lol

Every "old" carb ain't bad......if the saw runs good....no worries.


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## Junkfxr (Feb 6, 2014)

Alrighty then. Let me rephrase that. How would someone.....say a dealer, know if he had a new or old carb in the box on the shelf?


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## TK (Feb 6, 2014)

By new carb, we mean by a new one in the box on the shelf. Not new as in updated or changed. An EL46 is an EL46. Any carb in a box on the shelf is a new carb.


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## boxygen (Feb 6, 2014)

I started mine last night in the garage when I got home. Snappy throttle, no dying, beautiful idling, all while ice cold. I think it runs better than when I first got the saw with 2 tanks of fuel through it.Horray EL44!


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## MountainHigh (Feb 6, 2014)

my dealer has 562xp's with serial starting 2013xxxxxxxx as well as even fresher 526xp's arriving on a palette this week .... Is there any chance these 2013 and even newer 562's with EL46's are not the lemon carbs?


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## Mastermind (Feb 6, 2014)

Like we've said several times......not all EL46s are bad.


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## boxygen (Feb 6, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> my dealer has 562xp's with serial starting 2013xxxxxxxx as well as even fresher 526xp's arriving on a palette this week .... Is there any chance these 2013 and even newer 562's with EL46's are not the lemon carbs?


 I don't think there is anybody out there that is going to be able to tell you the answer to that. Not enough is known about the "problem" yet.


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 6, 2014)

If you wait for a saw that is problem free then you better just buy a buck saw. Just buy the damn thing and go cut wood


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## ncvarmint (Feb 6, 2014)

Mine has 1 tank thru it and has hesitation issues
Let it idol for 10seconds and it take a second to rev up good. Is this a easy fix for me to do myself or do I need to wait on a fix from husqvarna?


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## MountainHigh (Feb 6, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> If you wait for a saw that is problem free then you better just buy a buck saw. Just buy the damn thing and go cut wood
> Sent from my Autotune Carb



 I guess I've been spoiled. 346xp never a moments grief in 13 years.


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## MountainHigh (Feb 6, 2014)

ncvarmint said:


> Mine has 1 tank thru it and has hesitation issues
> Let it idol for 10seconds and it take a second to rev up good. Is this a easy fix for me to do myself or do I need to wait on a fix from husqvarna?



They don't have final fix for it yet .... what year was yours made?


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 6, 2014)

Me too but i still have 3 AT saws


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## ncvarmint (Feb 6, 2014)

MountainHigh said:


> They don't have final fix for it yet .... what year was yours made?


I think it's a 2013
Bought from tlandrum a few weeks ago
Saw is way stronger than I thought it would be
Really like it other than the hesitation problem


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## MountainHigh (Feb 6, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> Me too but i still have 3 AT saws
> Sent from my Autotune Carb



so is there any pattern to the serials and year of production with bad carbs developing yet? What years were your 562's made in?


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 6, 2014)

Both 562's were made in June of 2012 and the 550 was made in September 2013.

1 562 stumbled when you hit the throttle for about the first tank then worked itself out and the other one and the 550 never had any problems at all.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 6, 2014)

I am happy as chit to announce that my 562 runs phenomenal thanks to Mitch working on it and the last trick of rotating the butterfly. You guys are great. Special thanks to Mitch for getting it to be operational.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 6, 2014)

I may add that the temp is a wonderful 2 degrees and not in "winter" mode.


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## Junkfxr (Feb 6, 2014)

TK said:


> By new carb, we mean by a new one in the box on the shelf. Not new as in updated or changed. An EL46 is an EL46. Any carb in a box on the shelf is a new carb.


 Oh. See, I told you that I was showing some pure ignorance. Thanks for clarifying that for me.


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## MountainHigh (Feb 6, 2014)

mx_racer428 said:


> I am happy as chit to announce that my 562 runs phenomenal thanks to Mitch working on it and the last trick of rotating the butterfly. You guys are great. Special thanks to Mitch for getting it to be operational.



Good to hear your saw is performing well. Mitch, can you please move to Canada


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 6, 2014)

You can't take Iowa's saw geek away.....


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## MountainHigh (Feb 6, 2014)

Husky should be paying Mitch for dealer training/service *videos*. Suggestion for Mitch .... call Husky up and tell them you have fix for their carb issue and you want to help them solve future issues as well - you are gun for hire - Start a nice little password protected site for Husky dealers and retain copyright to your own work - I'm not kidding, there is a market there - just get better camera that focuses on close up detail.  And of course, AS members always get free previews


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## sunfish (Feb 6, 2014)

ncvarmint said:


> Mine has 1 tank thru it and has hesitation issues
> Let it idol for 10seconds and it take a second to rev up good. Is this a easy fix for me to do myself or do I need to wait on a fix from husqvarna?


Get a couple more tanks through it before worrying about it.


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## funky sawman (Mar 13, 2014)

any outcome or soluitions yet guys?


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Mar 13, 2014)

The already listed tricks and tips worked perfect for mine. 

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk


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## tlandrum (Mar 13, 2014)

sometimes there is no fix for a bad carb. you just have to replace it


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## ncvarmint (Mar 13, 2014)

Mine seems to do it worse at times but when it's cold outside it is worse
Sometimes I can cut a with a half tank it it won't hesitate at all


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## tacomatrd98 (Mar 13, 2014)

I don't know if this has been mentioned yet or not as I did not read the entire 22 pages of this thread, but, IMHO how good a product is generally comes down to how demanding the customers are that own them. I'm a mechanic for a living and I cant tell you how many times I have heard people brag about how great there vehicle has treated them and when I test drive it I find half the functions do not work, steering pulls, brakes vibrate, wheel bearings are singing etc etc. Some people simply do not care about how well something works, only that it actually works and will perform the intended task, be it poorly or not. 

As long as the saw starts and the chain spins around the bar they're happy. Those of us that demand a higher precision are the ones experiencing the problems. What I'm getting at is that I would bet money there are a lot more of these out there that run "perfect" that are having this issue, but the users simply do not care about it. Thus the reason we don't hear about it other than in enthusiast crowds.

I personally own/have owned a t540xp, 550xp, 562xp, 576XP AT. Of all of them, the 576 had the best characteristics as in, it had no flat spots or hesitations. it ran like a standard carbed saw for the most part and thats the one nobody likes lol. The 550 ran well but was just like this 562 I have...Squirrely at low speeds and when on-off the trigger. It gets quite aggravating. I wont even get into the disappointment the t540xp is. It is the only saw I have ever literally wanted to throw in the trash can. 

Just my opinion.

-AJ


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## tacomatrd98 (Mar 13, 2014)

Also want to ad, I'm not Husky or AT bashing. I'm just giving my input. I have had 3 M-tronic models too. The 241 and 441 operate pretty much flawlessly but the 261cm I didnt care for. it always seemed on the lean side for my liking. It ran well, i just liked my 261 carbed version better.

-AJ


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## sunfish (Mar 13, 2014)

I ran my 2 year old 562xp a good bit this morning. Still runs extremely well!


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## SCHallenger (Mar 13, 2014)

tacomatrd98 said:


> I don't know if this has been mentioned yet or not as I did not read the entire 22 pages of this thread, but, IMHO how good a product is generally comes down to how demanding the customers are that own them. I'm a mechanic for a living and I cant tell you how many times I have heard people brag about how great there vehicle has treated them and when I test drive it I find half the functions do not work, steering pulls, brakes vibrate, wheel bearings are singing etc etc. Some people simply do not care about how well something works, only that it actually works and will perform the intended task, be it poorly or not.
> 
> As long as the saw starts and the chain spins around the bar they're happy. Those of us that demand a higher precision are the ones experiencing the problems. What I'm getting at is that I would bet money there are a lot more of these out there that run "perfect" that are having this issue, but the users simply do not care about it. Thus the reason we don't hear about it other than in enthusiast crowds.
> 
> ...



I suspect you are exactly right. I'm still waiting to see how everything shakes out with mine which has just had a carb replacement. When I have run it enough under field conditions, I will post the results in the "562XP questions" thread that I started a few months ago. For right now I can say that I ran it with the outside temp at 14deg on the morning after a -31deg overnight. I did have the plug out as per winter operating instructions. The oil was like glue. It popped on pull #3 & started on the next. After 4 tough cuts in Honey Locust with the 24in B&C, it revved well when throttled up. After 10-15 sec @ idle it still wanted to not respond as quickly as it should, but it was considerably better than before. I'm going to run a couple of more tanks through it in one cutting session before I draw any conclusions.


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## Mastermind (Mar 13, 2014)

They're purty good saws.......but they look like a Chinese running shoe.


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## stihlonlynow (Apr 29, 2014)

[QUit post: 4685781, member: 60118"]Ya, more than likely popping a new EL46 on there will cure the AIDs or whatevers inside these things.[/QUOTE]
Tk it didnt fix mine ....made it worsen it doesn't stumble now. It stalls.....a lot.
Has anyone figured this out yet?


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## stihlonlynow (Apr 29, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> They're purty good saws.......but they look like a Chinese running shoe.


With a chines carb


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## mweba (Apr 29, 2014)

Three quarters of the bodies can be fixed although there is always a couple that need replaced. I can fix em but it's on a carb to carb basis. The saw will not be damaged by the carb, it's just aggravating especially in colder weather. Unfortunately if you can't get a hold of a 44....just wait for the superceded carb on the way. 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## Mastermind (Apr 29, 2014)




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## mweba (Apr 29, 2014)

Get to work monkey 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## Junkfxr (Apr 29, 2014)

mweba said:


> Three quarters of the bodies can be fixed although there is always a couple that need replaced. I can fix em but it's on a carb to carb basis. The saw will not be damaged by the carb, it's just aggravating especially in colder weather. Unfortunately if you can't get a hold of a 44....just wait for the superceded carb on the way.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


I've been waiting on a superceded carb since December.


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## SCHallenger (Apr 29, 2014)

Looks like it's time for the update on mine. I was able to give it a good run while helping a friend cut up a good sized oak. After getting the small stuff off, we got to the main stem which was about 30ft. long & ranged from 18in-24in dia. Outdoor temp was in the mid-30s. With the new carb it had the same old problems. The first 3 or 4 times I went to throttle up after making a cut, it just plain stalled out. It didn't matter how I started the throttling up. Sometimes I just mashed the trigger suddenly, & sometimes I tried to "tickle or coax" it into responding by careful blipping. We finished the work, & I took it back to the dealer with my report on how it ran. He shook his head & said, "It ain't right". I left the saw with him; he called Husqvarna, & they told him to replace the coil. He replaced the coil & did a reset. I tested it thoroughly before bringing it home. It performed perfectly. Allright! So far so good. Last Sat. I was again cutting with my friend, this time on a large (by my standards) maple. When the limbing was done we had a stem which divided for about 30ft. When we got below the fork into the meat of the thing, we had a trunk about 30ft long ranging from 20in-36in dia. I used over two tanks to get the job done. There was no stalling, &, it didn't matter if I set the saw down to idle for 2min., or if I went right from one cut to the next. A couple of times, after a long cut, the idle was a little slow RPM-wise (probably because the saw & carb temp were a little warmer than after a shorter cut), & throttling up did not give quite as immediate a response. There was, however, no bog like it wanted to stall, & no cough-like hesitation. I considered this to be completely normal & gave the saw a big thumbs-up! Just for the record, the original carb & the replacement carb were both EL46s. I think I finally have a winner!! BIG SMILIE!!!


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## Junkfxr (Apr 29, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> Looks like it's time for the update on mine. I was able to give it a good run while helping a friend cut up a good sized oak. After getting the small stuff off, we got to the main stem which was about 30ft. long & ranged from 18in-24in dia. Outdoor temp was in the mid-30s. With the new carb it had the same old problems. The first 3 or 4 times I went to throttle up after making a cut, it just plain stalled out. It didn't matter how I started the throttling up. Sometimes I just mashed the trigger suddenly, & sometimes I tried to "tickle or coax" it into responding by careful blipping. We finished the work, & I took it back to the dealer with my report on how it ran. He shook his head & said, "It ain't right". I left the saw with him; he called Husqvarna, & they told him to replace the coil. He replaced the coil & did a reset. I tested it thoroughly before bringing it home. It performed perfectly. Allright! So far so good. Last Sat. I was again cutting with my friend, this time on a large (by my standards) maple. When the limbing was done we had a stem which divided for about 30ft. When we got below the fork into the meat of the thing, we had a trunk about 30ft long ranging from 20in-36in dia. I used over two tanks to get the job done. There was no stalling, &, it didn't matter if I set the saw down to idle for 2min., or if I went right from one cut to the next. A couple of times, after a long cut, the idle was a little slow RPM-wise (probably because the saw & carb temp were a little warmer than after a shorter cut), & throttling up did not give quite as immediate a response. There was, however, no bog like it wanted to stall, & no cough-like hesitation. I considered this to be completely normal & gave the saw a big thumbs-up! Just for the record, the original carb & the replacement carb were both EL46s. I think I finally have a winner!! BIG SMILIE!!!


Cool! Glad to hear that Husky was able to get one fixed.


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## boxygen (Apr 29, 2014)

Mine is still running well on the new EL44.


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## stihlonlynow (Apr 29, 2014)

boxygenel4444ost: 4798594 said:


> Mine is still running well on the new EL44.


There is a new el 44? Are you sure?


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## stihlonlynow (Apr 29, 2014)

I think you got a tk44?


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## Mastermind (Apr 29, 2014)

I've done several now......just swap on a EL44 and go.


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## MustangMike (Apr 29, 2014)

Interesting, perhaps there are a few saws with carb problems and a few with coil problems, which is making it so confounding to figure out, especially if the saw does not exhibit the problem during testing.

I wish everyone good luck getting it resolved.


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## Terry Syd (May 1, 2014)

[QUOTE="I left the saw with him; he called Husqvarna, & they told him to replace the coil. He replaced the coil & did a reset. I tested it thoroughly before bringing it home. It performed perfectly. Allright! So far so good. Last Sat. I was again cutting with my friend, this time on a large (by my standards) maple. When the limbing was done we had a stem which divided for about 30ft. When we got below the fork into the meat of the thing, we had a trunk about 30ft long ranging from 20in-36in dia. I used over two tanks to get the job done. There was no stalling, &, it didn't matter if I set the saw down to idle for 2min., or if I went right from one cut to the next. A couple of times, after a long cut, the idle was a little slow RPM-wise (probably because the saw & carb temp were a little warmer than after a shorter cut), & throttling up did not give quite as immediate a response. There was, however, no bog like it wanted to stall, & no cough-like hesitation. I considered this to be completely normal & gave the saw a big thumbs-up! Just for the record, the original carb & the replacement carb were both EL46s. I think I finally have a winner!! BIG SMILIE!!![/QUOTE]

Hmm, a coil. I wonder if the Husky coils are a bit sensitive to the air gap. I had one Husky that gave a weak spark with the gap set to specifications. I tried adjusting it until I found a range that gave the hottest (blue) spark. I then set the coil in the middle of the range that I discovered gave the best spark. That final setting was outside the recommended range by a fair bit.


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## SCHallenger (May 3, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> [QUOTE="I left the saw with him; he called Husqvarna, & they told him to replace the coil. He replaced the coil & did a reset. I tested it thoroughly before bringing it home. It performed perfectly. Allright! So far so good. Last Sat. I was again cutting with my friend, this time on a large (by my standards) maple. When the limbing was done we had a stem which divided for about 30ft. When we got below the fork into the meat of the thing, we had a trunk about 30ft long ranging from 20in-36in dia. I used over two tanks to get the job done. There was no stalling, &, it didn't matter if I set the saw down to idle for 2min., or if I went right from one cut to the next. A couple of times, after a long cut, the idle was a little slow RPM-wise (probably because the saw & carb temp were a little warmer than after a shorter cut), & throttling up did not give quite as immediate a response. There was, however, no bog like it wanted to stall, & no cough-like hesitation. I considered this to be completely normal & gave the saw a big thumbs-up! Just for the record, the original carb & the replacement carb were both EL46s. I think I finally have a winner!! BIG SMILIE!!!



Hmm, a coil. I wonder if the Husky coils are a bit sensitive to the air gap. I had one Husky that gave a weak spark with the gap set to specifications. I tried adjusting it until I found a range that gave the hottest (blue) spark. I then set the coil in the middle of the range that I discovered gave the best spark. That final setting was outside the recommended range by a fair bit.[/QUOTE]

That is an interesting thought. I don't think I'm the right person to play around with it to find out. Maybe Mitch Weba has the answer.


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## Terry Syd (May 3, 2014)

I check the spark across the plug gap in my shed with the light off. I give the rope a pull and watch the spark, then reset the gap either closer or further to see whether the spark gets stronger. Eventually, I find a range where the spark is strongest and then set the gap in the middle of the range. I've also found on some coils that the trigger coil (the small lamination on the coil) likes to be set at a different gap than the exciter coil.

Its easy, I just use different size feeler gauges under the coils before I loosen the mounting screws and let the coil drop onto the flywheel magnet, then tighten the screws down, remove feeler gauges and give it a try. 

I do all my saws that way as a good hot spark helps to keep the plug from fouling.


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## SCHallenger (May 4, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> I check the spark across the plug gap in my shed with the light off. I give the rope a pull and watch the spark, then reset the gap either closer or further to see whether the spark gets stronger. Eventually, I find a range where the spark is strongest and then set the gap in the middle of the range. I've also found on some coils that the trigger coil (the small lamination on the coil) likes to be set at a different gap than the exciter coil.
> 
> Its easy, I just use different size feeler gauges under the coils before I loosen the mounting screws and let the coil drop onto the flywheel magnet, then tighten the screws down, remove feeler gauges and give it a try.
> 
> I do all my saws that way as a good hot spark helps to keep the plug from fouling.



Thanks for that. You just taught me something. The more "weapons" in the arsenal, the better!


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## skylogger (Oct 9, 2014)

Well guys I had a good day today saw wise[emoji1]. Last Friday I took my 562xp into the dealer for the fourth time for the hesitation off idle issue. In the previous trips they have replaced the carb from a 44 to a 46 put a New tank on some screws and a coil and also reset the autotune every time. Nothing changed. This morning they call me and tell me my saw is ready so I get there and he hands me and brand New 2014 562 I was floored!! He said the rep told him to just give me a new saw, I never even complained just asked if they could fix it! Took the new saw out cut a couple of big chunks noodled some and cut a bunch of small junk used almost a whole tank and it is running perfect just like the 550. One pull hot starts and no bogging or hesitation whatsoever. I'm a happy camper!


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## skylogger (Oct 9, 2014)




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## skylogger (Oct 9, 2014)




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## skylogger (Oct 9, 2014)

Yep it's got the el48 in it.


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## Mastermind (Oct 9, 2014)

The EL48.


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## Mastermind (Oct 9, 2014)

I wonder if I can get that carb yet?


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## WoodChuck'r (Oct 9, 2014)

Well here's an email notification that gave me a flashback.


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## tlandrum (Oct 9, 2014)

you can get the el48


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## Mastermind (Oct 9, 2014)

WoodChuck'r said:


> Well here's an email notification that gave me a flashback.



Who are you, and what have you done with Jason?


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## Mastermind (Oct 9, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> you can get the el48



Welp.......I might need one.


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## WoodChuck'r (Oct 9, 2014)

Woodchukka is a homo.


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## tlandrum (Oct 9, 2014)

il order up a couple when I get my next order


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## Mastermind (Oct 9, 2014)

I'd like to keep one on the shelf.


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## skylogger (Oct 9, 2014)

Has anyone takin the el48 apart and seen the difference it's amazing to me the saw can be so much better.


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## tlandrum (Oct 9, 2014)

the saw didnt changed,it was just in need of a good working carb. the problem never was the saw,it was a carb issue the whole time.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Oct 9, 2014)

What about us guys with the 44s/46.. Anything warranty will do to cover for a 48? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MustangMike (Oct 9, 2014)

They are real nice saws, glad yours now runs right. Enjoy!


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## tlandrum (Oct 9, 2014)

if the saws under warranty then yes they will let an authorized dealer replace it.


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## Terry Syd (Oct 9, 2014)

For the guys out of warranty, maybe someone can open up an EL48 and see what the difference is. It may be something as simple as a different size idle jet or transition hole - which might be easily be altered on an earlier carb.

If someone is going to check out the new carb, there are four things I'd be looking at -
Idle or low speed jet
Transition/air bleed holes
Metering spring
Size of the metering orifice under the needle

Any one or a combination of the above would affect the throttle response.


----------



## CR888 (Oct 10, 2014)

l always enjoy what Terry posts. Good info!


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 10, 2014)

It's cold out.


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 10, 2014)

Little warmer out in the sun now.


----------



## Mastermind (Oct 10, 2014)

*I was born a crumb*


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 10, 2014)

I'm a poor decision.


----------



## KenJax Tree (Oct 10, 2014)

I like bacon


----------



## Mastermind (Oct 10, 2014)

Me too....but my budget keeps me on bologna.


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 10, 2014)

Nice breeze out today too.


----------



## psuiewalsh (Oct 10, 2014)

What is up with the time stamps?


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 10, 2014)

Beautiful clouds in the sky today.


----------



## KenJax Tree (Oct 10, 2014)

Cloudy with a chance of ebola


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 10, 2014)

I need to buy a new microwave.


----------



## Mastermind (Oct 10, 2014)

WoodChuck'r said:


> Nice breeze out today too.



Put your damn pants back on.


----------



## skylogger (Oct 10, 2014)

Forgot to mention the only note on my receipt was "multiple code 4 on ignition". I was wondering what that meant?


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 10, 2014)

Trees are turning yellow.


----------



## tlandrum (Oct 10, 2014)

do they have banana virus


----------



## Mastermind (Oct 10, 2014)

I put that banana scent in my fuel for a joke........now the damn shop smells just like that ****.


----------



## tlandrum (Oct 10, 2014)

remember the days of grape additive at the drag strip. I got to the point that it make me deathly ill to smell that crapo sitting in the line waiting on my turn at the tree.


----------



## hamish (Oct 10, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> For the guys out of warranty, maybe someone can open up an EL48 and see what the difference is. It may be something as simple as a different size idle jet or transition hole - which might be easily be altered on an earlier carb.
> 
> If someone is going to check out the new carb, there are four things I'd be looking at -
> Idle or low speed jet
> ...



Throttle valve and the software. The valve and the software have been the only major leaps and bound changes from the EL44 to the EL46 and finally the EL48...............and wait for it................the EL50 carb specific wise.


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## Terry Syd (Oct 10, 2014)

The throttle valve normally works with the idle mixture. Did they do something like offset the cutaway or change it's shape so that it had a different effect on the transition holes? Anyone have a picture of the before and after throttle valve so that an earlier carb can be modded?


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## WoodChuck'r (Oct 11, 2014)

Gonna clean the shed out today.


----------



## Mastermind (Oct 11, 2014)

Is that code for a colon cleansing?


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 12, 2014)

30°


----------



## J.Walker (Oct 12, 2014)

It's time to get out the 562xpg saw.


----------



## cityboy172 (Oct 12, 2014)

WoodChuck'r said:


> 30°


34. How'd you get the degree symbol?


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 12, 2014)

Alt + 0


----------



## cityboy172 (Oct 12, 2014)

WoodChuck'r said:


> Alt + 0




** looks for alt button on cell phone** 

Sweet, found it in a menu I never use. °℃℉


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 12, 2014)




----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 12, 2014)

I presumed you were on a keyboard since its so easy to locate on a phone, lol.


Glad I could somewhat be of assistance.


----------



## cityboy172 (Oct 12, 2014)

WoodChuck'r said:


> I presumed you were on a keyboard since its so easy to locate on a phone, lol.
> 
> 
> Glad I could somewhat be of assistance.


The simplest things in life, are sometimes the hardest.

Seriously though, it's in the menu with all the voodo symbols. €¥£¿{}<>§«»©^®ω⊙¤℃°℉


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 12, 2014)

Now what to eat for breffis. 


Maybe a baygo with creechee....?


----------



## cityboy172 (Oct 12, 2014)

WoodChuck'r said:


> Now what to eat for breffis.
> 
> 
> Maybe a baygo with creechee....?


I need to run to dad's and do cattle chores. I think I'll hit up a good spot on the way there. These 3+ week old English muffins aren't going to cut it.


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## WoodChuck'r (Oct 12, 2014)

I'd rather cook somethin' at home but I'm in a hurry to get the eff outta here so it's gonna be either Dubba Dee's or Timmy Hoe's......


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## Mastermind (Oct 12, 2014)

I'm lazy today......


----------



## WoodChuck'r (Oct 12, 2014)

You're not alone.


I mean, I'm feeling lazy - like, feeling like I don't wanna do anything and I just wanna sit the eff down.


But I've been busting my ass all day long now and soon laziness will win.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 1, 2014)

So...... Any update on this subject? I was looking on the husky sight at there IPL and see the anti vibes have changed also. I also notices the carb to cylinder intake pipe has changed. I'm really curious so what exactly is different In the carb and pipe. The IPL shows a different butterfly of course but what else? Someone also mentioned the software. What did they adjust and hope to get out of it? Would be nice to put our heads together and figure this out. My local dealer hardly can operate a fone let alone a computer with the autotune software.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 4, 2014)

Bump...


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## gunrush128 (Nov 17, 2014)

I'm also curious if there are any updates on this topic. I've been reading threads for days trying to find a definitive solution to the awful stumble I get off idle. I've read that the EL44 is the better option, now the EL 48? 

I just want to make this saw run right... I'd hate to have to drop $100 on a new carb, but if that's the only solution, so be it


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 17, 2014)

gunrush128 said:


> I'm also curious if there are any updates on this topic. I've been reading threads for days trying to find a definitive solution to the awful stumble I get off idle. I've read that the EL44 is the better option, now the EL 48?
> 
> I just want to make this saw run right... I'd hate to have to drop $100 on a new carb, but if that's the only solution, so be it


What carb do you currently have? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gunrush128 (Nov 17, 2014)

I believe I have the EL46










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## TK (Nov 17, 2014)

Your carb is marked on the side what it is.


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## Terry Syd (Nov 17, 2014)

Gunrush, thanks for posting the picture of the throttle valve. It looks like they have gone to considerable trouble to lean out the idle by having all those bypass holes in the throttle valve. The result would be an extra shot of fuel as the throttle moves from the idle position to the transition holes.

There may be a larger idle/low speed jet in the carb to go with that throttle plate.


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## gunrush128 (Nov 17, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> Gunrush, thanks for posting the picture of the throttle valve. It looks like they have gone to considerable trouble to lean out the idle by having all those bypass holes in the throttle valve. The result would be an extra shot of fuel as the throttle moves from the idle position to the transition holes.
> 
> There may be a larger idle/low speed jet in the carb to go with that throttle plate.



It's my understanding that the EL46 came with this style throttle plate from the factory. 


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 17, 2014)

gunrush128 said:


> It's my understanding that the EL46 came with this style throttle plate from the factory.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Correct


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Terry Syd (Nov 17, 2014)

Does the most recent carb have the same throttle plate?


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 17, 2014)

Based on the parts ipl... No. Sure would be nice if a dealer could do a quick write up with pictures. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mastermind (Nov 17, 2014)

The EL48 is 140.00


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## Terry Syd (Nov 17, 2014)

Well, for $140, that should be a difference worth exploring. Perhaps somebody can go through the EL48 and see where it differs from the EL46. Crikey, if it is only something simple like modding a throttle plate, somebody could make some bucks by modding the earlier carbs.

Obviously check the throttle plate, then
the idle/low speed jet
the size of the transition/air bleed holes
the metering spring
the size of the metering orifice under the metering valve.

One other potential issue could be how far the main discharge nozzle extends into the venturi.

Once we know what the differences are, then a fix could be designed.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 17, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> Well, for $140, that should be a difference worth exploring. Perhaps somebody can go through the EL48 and see where it differs from the EL46. Crikey, if it is only something simple like modding a throttle plate, somebody could make some bucks by modding the earlier carbs.
> 
> Obviously check the throttle plate, then
> the idle/low speed jet
> ...


There's defiantly tricks to make these carbs work but if a guy still has warranty it would be logical to get them swapped out. I know mweba, and I think hamish spent a lot of time trouble shooting these carbs and finding out ways to make them work. I've spent a fare amount of time my self using there tricks and a few of my own to get my el44 to run dang near perfect, still has s mind of its own when it's hot out though. Mweba has a few great Utube vids going into detail on his findings. There worth watching. 


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## Mastermind (Nov 17, 2014)

Hamish has never posted anything of value that I have seen.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 17, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Hamish has never posted anything of value that I have seen.


Well chit... Who was Mitch working back and forth with for a while there "tom" was his name


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 17, 2014)

Tk?


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## tlandrum (Nov 17, 2014)

msrp is 143.88 to be exact, but I know a guy


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## Mastermind (Nov 17, 2014)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> Tk?



Mitch, TK, and myself.


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## wigglesworth (Nov 18, 2014)

Just richen up the low side.... Hesitation gone!


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 18, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Mitch, TK, and myself.


Sorry for not giving credit where credit was due, have you had a chance to get your hands on an El48? I think the over all tune-ecu software is different to right? 


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## Mastermind (Nov 18, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


> Just richen up the low side.... Hesitation gone!



Bozo. 



A.E. Metal Werx said:


> Sorry for not giving credit where credit was due, have you had a chance to get your hands on an El48? I think the over all tune-ecu software is different to right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm still using the EL44 to fix the trouble prone ones.


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## LogSawyer74 (Nov 18, 2014)

Just FYI, I've recently seen EL48 carbs on the feebay for much cheaper. Not sure how or why someone has a lot of those to sell, but they're there. And about $80.


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## gunrush128 (Nov 18, 2014)

I just bought one. Now hopefully I can get someone to upload the Autotune software. 

There are still 3 left at that price if anybody else is looking


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## tlandrum (Nov 18, 2014)

id be very weary of those carbs at that price . my cost is higher than that


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## Chris-PA (Nov 18, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> Does the most recent carb have the same throttle plate?


That throttle plate has "Band-Aid" written all over it.


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## gunrush128 (Nov 18, 2014)

This is part of his description 

"I purchased a large lot of brand new parts which were shipped to a shipping courier here in Canada and were never picked up so they were auctioned off. I got everything at a great price to offering it to you at the same.
Brand new in original box this is a Husqvarna carburetor part no. 579 19 41 07 I believe for a chainsaw or weedeater. with unprogrammed Auto tune/Carb Control unit. says on it EL 48 402A I have one other kind of carburetor up for sale. Believed to be compatible with models in the title."


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## Terry Syd (Nov 18, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I'm still using the EL44 to fix the trouble prone ones.



OK, we're listening, what is the fix that makes the carb usable?


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## Mastermind (Nov 18, 2014)

Nothing special. 

Just stick the module from the EL46 on the EL44 and bolt it on.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 18, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Nothing special.
> 
> Just stick the module from the EL46 on the EL44 and bolt it on.


That's all your doing? And getting great results? Lucky! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## c5rulz (Nov 18, 2014)

lmbrman said:


> Same here, never an issue other than I didn't buy a 'g' model. Getting cold up here.


 

Old thread, how's the G model running Dave? bwah bwah bwah???


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## one.man.band (Nov 19, 2014)

why the carb manufacturer would put holes in the butterfly is insanity.

pancakes or waffles?


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## Chris-PA (Nov 19, 2014)

one.man.band said:


> why the carb manufacturer would put holes in the butterfly is insanity.


Clearly they were trying to fix something, which is why I called it a band aid. The purpose of adding those notches at the edge of the throttle plate is either to allow extra air flow that is directed away from fuel outlet ports so it won't pick up more fuel, or to direct it toward fuel outlet ports so it will pick up more. You'd have to examine it to figure out which, but given the distribution of them I'd bet on the former.

My guess is that they were having problems when the strato air valve opened. The separate strato air valve is closed at idle, and allows effectively variable port timing at idle/low speed. It opens fairly abruptly above idle, but since the strato valve flows only air this also causes an abrupt change in the fuel mixture - it's probably a PITA to deal with that. That throttle plate looks like some attempt to compensate for it. 

Kinda strange though since every cheap Poulan has that worked out just fine.


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## Mastermind (Nov 19, 2014)

I believe......just believe mind you.....that fuel pools behind the throttle plate. Then when the throttle is opened....the excess fuel bogs the engine. The clipped plate was to help that issue. I do think they over did it.....then even more fuel was needed to keep idle speed down. A vicious circle it becomes.


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## Chris-PA (Nov 19, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I believe......just believe mind you.....that fuel pools behind the throttle plate. Then when the throttle is opened....the excess fuel bogs the engine. The clipped plate was to help that issue. I do think they over did it.....then even more fuel was needed to keep idle speed down. A vicious circle it becomes.


That's interesting - but I wonder why this carb would have been more prone to have that happen? I wonder if the strato air valve was letting in too much air at idle?


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 19, 2014)

I would like to believe the added ports were get idle under control, more ports allow more air to balance out the fuel/air ratio at idle. My personal saw had a very low, fat idle, Mitch enlarged the cut outs and that helped dramatically but wasn't s complete fix, but a dramatic improvement that made the saw usable. Rotating the butterfly 180 degrees eliminated any and all off idle hesitation. If I would slowly move the throttle there at times would be a serious rich spot that would about flood out the saw, my fix for that was speeding up the time that the fresh are butterfly opens up. Only issues I have now are starting the saw while it's hot out side. That's what issues I've had what what has been done to band aid them. May not be right to some but does work 


This is all done with the el44 

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## Junkfxr (Nov 19, 2014)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> This is all done with the el44


My El 46 was replaced with an EL 44 that I believe is bone stock and the saw went from almost unusable to a very angry "go to" saw.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Nov 19, 2014)

It's amazing at how much situations vary from saw to saw. Mine far from stock but that's common practice around here  


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## tacomatrd98 (Nov 19, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I believe......just believe mind you.....that fuel pools behind the throttle plate. Then when the throttle is opened....the excess fuel bogs the engine. The clipped plate was to help that issue. I do think they over did it.....then even more fuel was needed to keep idle speed down. A vicious circle it becomes.


I have a 441cm that does the same thing as my 562, runs great but if you set it down idling for 15 seconds, move a piece of wood, when you pick it up and hit the trigger it bogs for a moment and then is fine till you do that again. My 562 and 550 were fine all summer long after I did a reset and tune procedure. First cold day I have them out, same hesitation again. I have to wonder if fuel/mix ratio has anything to do with this. I was running 50:1 in them this summer til it was gone and now started using 40:1 ultra/vp in them. My regular saws seem to run fine on it and my 241 doesnt hesitate but these 3 do not run correctly. The 441 has been goofy since new but the 550/562 were perfect all summer. I love the saws when they are working right but that bog irritates the tar out of me.

EDIT: I hit post too soon. On the 441 I have adjusted the base idle setting screw, metering lever height etc and whatever I do seems to help but it is not near as good as it should be. It is definitely a rich bog, not a lean bog. I have not leak tested it yet either so it could be overcompensating for an air leak?? IDK. I'm not an AT/MT fan at the moment. Thy are my favorite saws when they run right but when they don't I just want to gt rid of them all.


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## MustangMike (Nov 19, 2014)

Have U tried the reset procedure on the 441? Sounds like U have had more than UR share of poor luck w/both companies (regarding hesitation).

Was the 441 under warranty, and did U bring it back?

This does not sound acceptable.


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## funky sawman (Nov 19, 2014)

Now that I have my job back as a saw tech, I have installed many el-48 carbs under warranty and has Zero issues with the 555 and 562. Ones with older el46 carbs are getting switched out before the saw is even sold to prevent pissed off customers.


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## Mastermind (Nov 19, 2014)

I think Husqvarna should trade all of us a 48 for our chitty 46s.


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## tacomatrd98 (Nov 19, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Have U tried the reset procedure on the 441? Sounds like U have had more than UR share of poor luck w/both companies (regarding hesitation).
> 
> Was the 441 under warranty, and did U bring it back?
> 
> This does not sound acceptable.



All are under warranty. I took the 441 cm back, he did a reset procedure as I have done many times. It worked for a little bit then back to its old tricks. it;s going back again this week. The 550/562 have been reset twice. they seem to be great til there is a major weather change and then they need reset again. It seems that when asked to do what autotune is hyped up to do, adjust for varying weather/fuel conditions, it says nah, can't do that. Honestly, a reset twice a year would not be the end of the world, but this is PA, if you dont like the weather, wait 5 minutes. It was 12 degrees this morning and they're calling for 60 on monday. Kinda hard to decide when to re-calibrate the saw.


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## lmbrman (Nov 19, 2014)

c5rulz said:


> Old thread, how's the G model running Dave? bwah bwah bwah???



fine with a EL48, not so much before

I take back my comments about operator error, some of these saws are just plain ####. Really glad I have a good husky dealer to deal with.


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## RedFir Down (Nov 19, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I think Husqvarna should trade all of us a 48 for our chitty 46s.


I agree entirely Randy!
I have one with a 46 carb. The last 2 days I have cut with it the dreaded carb issue showed up. The saw is out of warranty and it has been tampered with so I didnt take it to the dealer.
Instead I decided to call Husky and see what they had to say (I knew it was a long shot but had to try). I explained the whole situation, the lady I was speaking to said she was positive the carb was just out of adjustment and I needed to take it to a dealer to get it adjusted properly. I said you are correct.... its out of adjustment from the factory. 

Yep you guessed it calling them didnt get me anywhere.


----------



## MustangMike (Nov 19, 2014)

You should have asked her to send you a Husky adjustment kit for that carb!


----------



## SCHallenger (Nov 19, 2014)

RedFir Down said:


> I agree entirely Randy!
> I have one with a 46 carb. The last 2 days I have cut with it the dreaded carb issue showed up. The saw is out of warranty and it has been tampered with so I didnt take it to the dealer.
> Instead I decided to call Husky and see what they had to say (I knew it was a long shot but had to try). I explained the whole situation and the lady I was speaking to said she was positive the carb was just out of adjustment. I said you are correct.... its out of adjustment from the factory.
> 
> Yep you guessed it calling them didnt get me anywhere.



That is not a surprise. I tried to call them with a technical question & was told they do not take calls from anyone who is not a dealer!


----------



## MustangMike (Nov 19, 2014)

I guess w/o this site, we would all really be in the blind about a lot of things.


----------



## funky sawman (Nov 20, 2014)

looking through my service notes I found that husqvarna also had a el-47....... what tha........ yea el47 part # 579194106 can somebody figure out what tha.... is the difference of this version?


----------



## funky sawman (Nov 20, 2014)

Thats a valid orderable carb in stock at reno nevada warehouse


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## Mastermind (Nov 20, 2014)

Standard on the 555


----------



## funky sawman (Nov 20, 2014)

I got 2 555's for sale one is a 2011 model and other is a 2012 they both have el-44 carbs. So what particular 555 had this el47 carb?


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## Mastermind (Nov 20, 2014)

Brad just bought a new one......it has the 47


----------



## funky sawman (Nov 20, 2014)

so if you port a el47 555 it wont run as well as a 562 with a el48???? cause I assume that the carbs have different jetting and or venture size


----------



## funky sawman (Nov 20, 2014)

What I meant to say is if you put 562 transfers on a 555, will the stock 562 run better?


----------



## Mastermind (Nov 20, 2014)

I've never played with a 555. Brad is testing those ideas though.


----------



## funky sawman (Nov 20, 2014)

I see in the triple nickle thread of brads, the carb he has is a el49. jeeeee how many carbs I ask


----------



## Mastermind (Nov 20, 2014)

funky sawman said:


> I see in the triple nickle thread of brads, the carb he has is a el49. jeeeee how many carbs I ask



49? Really?

OK, I feel silly.


----------



## TK (Nov 22, 2014)

Simply having a notch in the butterfly lined up with the transition port in the body of the carb (el46) does take out a bunch of the hesitation. This hesitation may be accented in a ported saw. I think you'll find most of that issue eliminated by modifying the butterfly to a certain extent if you don't want to buy a new carburetor. There is certainly more to it than just the butterfly and the nozzle (the visible differences) but modifying the el46 carb slightly will make the saw more user friendly in the meantime. 

The el44 is a direct swap into the 562's that came with the el46, what happens is you lose the easy access smaller AT port for diagnostic hookup, which is the reason for swapping the el46 unit onto it. 

I don't know the differences on the el48 carb, yet. My local shipping warehouse is out of NY, and they are revamping that place at the moment so my parts are taking longer to get to me than usual as they are sent out of various warehouses in the country, mostly down south. When I get an el48 I'll do a comparison, but likely I won't find much for visible differences.


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## Mastermind (Nov 22, 2014)

I want my carb dammit.


----------



## Mastermind (Nov 22, 2014)

I mean......

I love you Tea Kay.


----------



## Mastermind (Nov 22, 2014)

Or was it??????

Phuckin Mainers.

I'm confused now.


----------



## hamish (Nov 22, 2014)

TK said:


> Simply having a notch in the butterfly lined up with the transition port in the body of the carb (el46) does take out a bunch of the hesitation. This hesitation may be accented in a ported saw. I think you'll find most of that issue eliminated by modifying the butterfly to a certain extent if you don't want to buy a new carburetor. There is certainly more to it than just the butterfly and the nozzle (the visible differences) but modifying the el46 carb slightly will make the saw more user friendly in the meantime.
> 
> The el44 is a direct swap into the 562's that came with the el46, what happens is you lose the easy access smaller AT port for diagnostic hookup, which is the reason for swapping the el46 unit onto it.
> 
> I don't know the differences on the el48 carb, yet. My local shipping warehouse is out of NY, and they are revamping that place at the moment so my parts are taking longer to get to me than usual as they are sent out of various warehouses in the country, mostly down south. When I get an el48 I'll do a comparison, but likely I won't find much for visible differences.


EL48 just has the different throttle valve and new software package.


----------



## Mastermind (Nov 22, 2014)

Oh but Hamish.....since you say none of those saw ever have any issues, why would they need a need carb and/or a different software package. Just wondering......


----------



## hamish (Nov 22, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Oh but Hamish.....since you say none of those saw ever have any issues, why would they need a need carb and/or a different software package. Just wondering......


Never said none of them had any issues, the actual number with real issues is very small. My own 562 had a bad carb, must be the end of the world. Another EL46 solved the problem.


----------



## hamish (Nov 22, 2014)

funky sawman said:


> I see in the triple nickle thread of brads, the carb he has is a el49. jeeeee how many carbs I ask


Three, the 44, 47 and 49. All basically the same carb with the exception of the throttle valve change and the AT reader hookup.


----------



## CR888 (Nov 22, 2014)

Hamish would a swap of an el49 carb off a 555 fix the problems that the 562 carbs are having. l know more members have 562's than 555's but you don't hear members complaining about 555 carbs or even 550 carbs for that matter. l have a 550 & 555 and throttle response is lightning fast without any stumble/hesitation. l just think ordering a 555 carb may be an answer for those suffering with 562 carb problems. l am not an expert in this field so correct me if l am off track.


----------



## Pud (Nov 22, 2014)

Anybody tried to find a carb that will bolt up thats just got hi and low screws , would the coil work without the tps and fuel solanoid not connected ? And one that the fresh air valve will bolt upto aswell .. Could u tap a lo circuit into it kinda like the opposite of 3120 carb mods , im just dreaming! Over hear a new carb and coil is almost a third of the price of the saw and may not really change much


----------



## Mastermind (Nov 22, 2014)

The 550 has a Walbro.......


----------



## hamish (Nov 22, 2014)

CR888 said:


> Hamish would a swap of an el49 carb off a 555 fix the problems that the 562 carbs are having. l know more members have 562's than 555's but you don't hear members complaining about 555 carbs or even 550 carbs for that matter. l have a 550 & 555 and throttle response is lightning fast without any stumble/hesitation. l just think ordering a 555 carb may be an answer for those suffering with 562 carb problems. l am not an expert in this field so correct me if l am off track.



The EL48 will do the same thing. The only difference between the EL48 and 49 or 46 and 47 if the firmware/software. From the EL44 to the EL48 on the 562 there have been over 10 software updates, but hey I guess the whole firmware/software part of the AT system is pointless and a mute point around here.


----------



## blsnelling (Nov 23, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Brad just bought a new one......it has the 47


EL49


----------



## TK (Nov 24, 2014)

hamish said:


> EL48 just has the different throttle valve and new software package.


There's a visual difference between the two carbs that isn't software or throttle butterfly.


----------



## Mastermind (Nov 24, 2014)

TK said:


> There's a visual difference between the two carbs that isn't software or throttle butterfly.



Not true Tea Kay. 

Hamish said so.


----------



## tlandrum (Nov 24, 2014)

how many carbs wood a saw builder chuck is a saw builder could chuck carbs???????


----------



## Mastermind (Nov 24, 2014)

83


----------



## tlandrum (Nov 24, 2014)

howd you know


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## blsnelling (Nov 24, 2014)

I thinking Randy might just chuck the whole saw, lol.


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## Mastermind (Nov 24, 2014)

Well......it is just another saw.


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## Terry Syd (Nov 24, 2014)

Somebody buy me a 562 and I promise I'll build a conventional C1M carb for it with the larger 13.5mm venturi. Send me a PM and I'll give you my address to send the saw to...


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## CR888 (Nov 24, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> Somebody buy me a 562 and I promise I'll build a conventional C1M carb for it with the larger 13.5mm venturi. Send me a PM and I'll give you my address to send the saw to...


mmmm...good offer for someone, my carbs on a 555/550 work fine and throttle response is better than other non-AT saws. l now kinda wish l had a dodgy one. Also Terry l got some micro drills & a pin vice delivered for around twenty bucks. l am in no rush but if a few members were interested could you do another carb mod thread? Many enjoy your thoughts relating all things carb.


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## Pud (Nov 24, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> Somebody buy me a 562 and I promise I'll build a conventional C1M carb for it with the larger 13.5mm venturi. Send me a PM and I'll give you my address to send the saw to...


Ill send u mine


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## Terry Syd (Nov 24, 2014)

Pud said:


> Ill send u mine



Yeah, I figured if I waited long enough, someone would get frustrated enough to send me a free saw.

I don't know if a conventional C1M would actually be able to fit on the saw. It might be worth a look to see if it is do-able.

What an upgrade! - A non-EPA approved gas guzzler for power, stone cold reliability, less weight and probably cheaper than the next upgrade from Husky.


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## 10bruce (Nov 24, 2014)

Has anyone had these problems with a Jonsered 2260 ?


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## wigglesworth (Nov 24, 2014)

The Autotune on my MS361 had been flawless from day one....


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## J.Walker (Nov 24, 2014)

No problems with my 2260 or my partners 2260.
Great running saws!


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## Mastermind (Nov 24, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


> The Autotune on my MS361 had been flawless from day one....



Don't feed the trolls.


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## wigglesworth (Nov 24, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Don't feed the trolls.



Are u suggesting a forced starvation tactic, aimed solely at ugly women?


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## Mastermind (Nov 24, 2014)

I like where you are going with this......really I do.


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## wigglesworth (Nov 24, 2014)

I prefer the holy hand grenade for ugly cave women...


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## TK (Nov 26, 2014)

You are an ugly cave woman.


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## Mastermind (Nov 26, 2014)

Hey Tea Kay.......did you leave these at my place last night?


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## Locust Cutter (Nov 26, 2014)

I ran my 562 yesterday and today for a bit in Hedge. The Muffler mod that either Randy or John did has awakened my saw nicely. That said, under 50°F it stumbles off idle. Over 50, it runs like a Swiss watch and starts easily hot or cold. I really do like the saw and will keep it, but wish it didn't stumble. I need to check and see which carb it has...


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## Mastermind (Nov 26, 2014)

Did you see the 545?


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## blsnelling (Nov 26, 2014)

As TK advised, I put a small notch directly inline with the transition ports in the EL46 on my 2260. There were already two equally distant on both sides. I made this one about the same size. It did not correct the hesitation. Anything else I can try? It really seems to me to be a lean condition.


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## Terry Syd (Nov 26, 2014)

If it is lean on transition, then maybe it can be made richer by increasing the size of the idle/low speed jet. That way, the AT system could lean it back out and then have a bigger buffer to work with under some other conditions.


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## Mastermind (Nov 26, 2014)

We've opened to stratos a little sooner Brad.....


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## Mastermind (Nov 26, 2014)

It normally ain't lean BTW.


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## Mastermind (Nov 26, 2014)

The EL44 is the best bet I've seen.


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## Terry Syd (Nov 27, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> We've opened to stratos a little sooner Brad.....



Hmm, then it sounds like the low speed jet could be a tad on the rich side if you are dumping in more air sooner in order to compensate for the extra fuel. Has anyone tried a stronger metering spring to bring in the ramp of fuel slower?

The EL44? OK, maybe someone could look at the size of the orifice under the metering valve and see if the EL44 has a smaller metering orifice. The smaller orifice would ramp in the fuel a bit slower.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2014)

Well, FWIW, I checked the other day while cleaning up the 562 from it's latest Hedge conquering adventure and I AM running with an EL46. We'll see. When it's much below 50°F it also doesn't like to idle very long....


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 2, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> Well, FWIW, I checked the other day while cleaning up the 562 from it's latest Hedge conquering adventure and I AM running with an EL46. We'll see. When it's much below 50°F it also doesn't like to idle very long....


Yep... My 44 with 46 electronics and tune was randomly shutting off on me while idling this last weekend. Temp was in the teens and 20s for most the day. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gunrush128 (Dec 2, 2014)

My 46 has an awful hesitation, but I've got a 48 on the way, so hopefully that'll fix the problem. I just need to find someone to load the latest software for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MustangMike (Dec 2, 2014)

I find it distressing that Husky is not stepping up to the plate and covering this stuff. This is obviously not a small or unknown problem.


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## blsnelling (Dec 2, 2014)

I talked with one respected member here. His carb has been replaced 3x. He now has a EL48. I talked to another well respected member, non-sponsor builder, and he ran a new 562 last week that had the hesitation. I'm currently waiting on a EL48 for my 2260. I'm thinking this is a bigger issue than I was led to believe.


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## Termite (Dec 2, 2014)

blsnelling said:


> I'm currently waiting on a EL48 for my 2260. I'm thinking this is a bigger issue than I was led to believe.



My 2260 has a bad hesitation. I just noticed it this weekend and it wasn't all that cold out.
Now that my saw has a hesitation *it is* a lot bigger issue.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 2, 2014)

blsnelling said:


> I talked with one respected member here. His carb has been replaced 3x. He now has a EL48. I talked to another well respected member, non-sponsor builder, and he ran a new 562 last week that had the hesitation. I'm currently waiting on a EL48 for my 2260. I'm thinking this is a bigger issue than I was led to believe.


Brad, the guy who ran a "new" 562, did it in fact have the 48 in it or assumed that it's in there since it was a "new" saw? Just want to make sure we have all the facts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RedFir Down (Dec 2, 2014)

I have a 562 with an el46, bought it with 5 hours on it. So far I have ran roughly 12-15 tanks of fuel through it and the stall/hesitation issue now makes the saw almost un-usable. If you let the saw idle more than 2-4 seconds between cuts you may as well shut it off and restart it when your ready too.....cause it will die.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 2, 2014)

RedFir Down said:


> I have a 562 with an el46, bought it with 5 hours on it. So far I have ran roughly 12-15 tanks of fuel through it and the stall/hesitation issue now makes the saw almost un-usable. If you let the saw idle more than 2-4 seconds between cuts you may as well shut it off and restart it when your ready too.....cause it will die.


Yep, I remember those days.. Very frustrating. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## blsnelling (Dec 2, 2014)

A.E. Metal Werx said:


> Brad, the guy who ran a "new" 562, did it in fact have the 48 in it or assumed that it's in there since it was a "new" saw? Just want to make sure we have all the facts.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't have those details.


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## blsnelling (Dec 2, 2014)

My 2260 is a 2013 model with a EL46. Can I just bolt on the EL48 and go, or, can I expect to need to have the software updated?


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## tlandrum (Dec 2, 2014)

you have to upload the software to the carb. some dealers were just installing new carbs with out the software upload and burning up saws.ive yet to see a single problem with the el48. I ported one for another dealer and they said it had the hesitation. they thought because it was a new saw that it had a el48 but it didn't. ii told them it still had a el46 . I suppose its fixed now with an el48 since I haven't heard back from them.


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## skylogger (Dec 2, 2014)

RedFir Down said:


> I have a 562 with an el46, bought it with 5 hours on it. So far I have ran roughly 12-15 tanks of fuel through it and the stall/hesitation issue now makes the saw almost un-usable. If you let the saw idle more than 2-4 seconds between cuts you may as well shut it off and restart it when your ready too.....cause it will die.


Exactly what mine did!


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## Chris-PA (Dec 2, 2014)

This is really lame - I wonder what they got wrong? Keep in mid that every cheap Poulan has had a strato engine with an air valve for years, and it doesn't sound like it has anything to do with the feedback control system.


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## sunfish (Dec 2, 2014)

They need to have Walbro build the carbs... End of story.


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## SCHallenger (Dec 2, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> I find it distressing that Husky is not stepping up to the plate and covering this stuff. This is obviously not a small or unknown problem.



I am the 562XP owner who is now on the 3rd carb. It is wearing the EL48 after two EL46s. Husky, through my dealer, has covered it all.


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## tlandrum (Dec 2, 2014)

is it running correctly with the el48?


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## MustangMike (Dec 2, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> I am the 562XP owner who is now on the 3rd carb. It is wearing the EL48 after two EL46s. Husky, through my dealer, has covered it all.



That is good news, but because it is an obvious defect, EVERYONE should be covered.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Dec 2, 2014)

Seems like the issue is finding a dealer that is protectant with the diagnostic too/software. My dealer can hardly use a cell phone let alone hooking a saw up to a computer... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tlandrum (Dec 2, 2014)

I think Husqvarna should require training before they can sell the saws.


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## rburg (Dec 2, 2014)

I have only talked to one dealer in a 50 mile radius from me that is even familiar with the AT saws. That is why I bought my 2252 from Terry even though he is about 300 miles away from me.


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## skylogger (Dec 2, 2014)

This is a video of mine the day I took it to the dealer for the last time......


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## Terry Syd (Dec 2, 2014)

Thanks for the video, now I know what you guys are talking about. There is no way I'd have a saw that performed like that!

It sounds like it is going lean, which would be the typical inclination for an EPA approved carburetion system.


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## LogSawyer74 (Dec 2, 2014)

Just out of curiosity, did everyone else's 562 run like a champ for the first 8-10 tanks? Mine ran fantastic for the first couple weeks, then the hesitation started slowly creeping in. Mine is definitely not as bad as the video, just a slight constant bog after idling for a few seconds.


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## KenJax Tree (Dec 2, 2014)

Mine stumbled off idle for about the first tank and has been perfect since and its had countless tanks through it now.


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## Termite (Dec 2, 2014)

I ran my 2260 today. A 2013 saw with an EL46. I noticed it did not stumble until it was well heat soaked. So that tells me it is a rich condition. If it was a lean bog it should do it when the saw is cold and not up to full operating temperature.

My logger buddy has an older, early 562 with a lot of hours other than a scored piston from bad gas no problems. 

I wonder who will come up with a fix first Husqvarna or one of our gurus?


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## RedFir Down (Dec 2, 2014)

Yeah it is ridiculous Husky doesn't take full responsibility for this issue!!!
I think everyone here should call and let them know.... since they seem to think it 1 in a billion 562's with this issue.
Here is there Forest & Garden support # fella's 1-704-597-5000. Lets start bugging them!

Oh and if I could post a video on Youtube about this issue I sure would.


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## Terry Syd (Dec 2, 2014)

Termite said:


> I ran my 2260 today. A 2013 saw with an EL46. I noticed it did not stumble until it was well heat soaked. So that tells me it is a rich condition. If it was a lean bog it should do it when the saw is cold and not up to full operating temperature.



Sounds logical and would be for a conventional carb, but the AT system throws a whole different component into the mix. If someone can get a schematic for the system maybe we might get an idea about what it is doing when it gets up to temperature. - Is there some sort of temperature device used on the system that is used during cold starts?

It may be that the EPA wanted it to lean out the system when it was idling - and then can't compensate enough for when the throttle is opened again. As I understand it, the AT system only tunes the high speed circuit, so if it is leaning out the high speed circuit at idle, then when you crack the throttle it can't respond fast enough.

An option for diagnosing the problem is to go both ways on tuning the carb. Perhaps using a larger low speed jet with a stronger (increased spring rate) metering spring may give us an idea. The larger low speed jet with the stronger spring would allow more fuel flow a bit later as the throttle was opened.

Or, if there was a temp device for cold starting, what would happen if it was disconnected.

EDIT: If there is a temp sensor on the carb, then it is probably a simple bi-metal switch rather than being a rheostat. In that case, since we don't know the logic of the system, it could either be a HIGH or LOW from the sensor. So, we may have to try first disconnecting the senor to see if that works, and if it doesn't, then try putting a shunt across the sensor to short it out.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2014)

Outside of the hesitation I like this saw ALMOST as much as Randy's old (Dad's new) finger-ported 262xp.


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## sunfish (Dec 2, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> Outside of the hesitation I like this saw ALMOST as much as Randy's old (Dad's new) finger-ported 262xp.


No hesitation here & I like mine ALMOST as much as my ported 357xp.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2014)

skylogger said:


> This is a video of mine the day I took it to the dealer for the last time......



Mine is about the same, but as mentioned above, not until it's heat soaked. For the first 1/2-3/4 of the first tank of the day it's golden after that it gets progressively worse. After it's good and hot it won't idle for more than about 45 sec to 1 minute. If I shut if off for a bit and restart it it's fine for a bit almost like it's vapor-locking.


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## MustangMike (Dec 2, 2014)

And a ported 562 is a very strong saw, just wish Husky would provide free fix for anyone with problems, it is too good of a saw to be blemished with these problems, IMO.


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## Terry Syd (Dec 2, 2014)

Shutting it off may be cutting the power to the AT, and thus resetting the logic.

Does anybody know if this AT has a temperature sensor in the system?


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## sunfish (Dec 2, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> Shutting it off may be cutting the power to the AT, and thus resetting the logic.
> 
> Does anybody know if this AT has a temperature sensor in the system?


No temp sensor that I know of.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2014)

My other issue is that in doing some remodeling projects around the house, my receipt has been lost... Being as I can't prove I'm the original owner (unless my dealer saved a copy which I intend to find out) I'm screwed on factory help as the slightly more helpful dealer in town refuses to touch it w/o a receipt.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2014)

If it gets much worse, I'll sell it and buy a MS362 CM...


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## boxygen (Dec 2, 2014)

Termite said:


> I ran my 2260 today. A 2013 saw with an EL46. I noticed it did not stumble until it was well heat soaked. So that tells me it is a rich condition. If it was a lean bog it should do it when the saw is cold and not up to full operating temperature.
> 
> My logger buddy has an older, early 562 with a lot of hours other than a scored piston from bad gas no problems.
> 
> I wonder who will come up with a fix first Husqvarna or one of our gurus?



A fix has been found. EL44. Its in this thread.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2014)

don't know if I'd be better off with the 44 or 48. I also don't know if I might have a pinched gasket/tube like the many that Randy and possibly Terry have found. I'm a bit reluctant to start tearing it apart to find out as I don't want to make it possibly worse than it already is.


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## tlandrum (Dec 2, 2014)

they can all be fixed under warranty with no charge to the owner if done thru the proper channels. Husqvarna is standing behind them 110%.


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## hamish (Dec 2, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> they can all be fixed under warranty with no charge to the owner if done thru the proper channels. Husqvarna is standing behind them 110%.


Agreed 100%. In many cases a simple firmware update takes care of it, if not component replacement. A simple warranty issue, for any dealer that knows how to apply the updates, and troubleshoot a non-at chainsaw.


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## SCHallenger (Dec 2, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> is it running correctly with the el48?


The first test says yes. There were a few variables which means "the jury is still out" AFAIC. I did get it to full operating temp on Sun. (outdoor temp was a little over 50), & tested it off idle from immediately after a cut & again after 2sec, 10sec, & 30+sec. There was no hesitation. Throttle response was perfect. I'll report again when I'm sure the AT is properly dialed in & I get a chance to cut in something other than $!**%# cottonwood.


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## MustangMike (Dec 2, 2014)

Then why are people having to pay for replacement carbs? I'm missing something.


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## bikemike (Dec 2, 2014)

I wish i had a husky to tinker with. Has anyone checked the spark arrestor? And would there be a possibility that is could be an issue with timing advance not working quick echo can be tuned spot on but the digital ignition coil can make ppl think its a carb issue. Just a thought to keep in mind


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## tlandrum (Dec 2, 2014)

the only reason a person would have to pay for a carb is if its out of warranty,been ported or modified which puts it out of warranty. or if they tried to fix it themselves. ill warranty them if they are sent to me ,so why are people buying carbs?


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## MarkEagleUSA (Dec 2, 2014)

sunfish said:


> No temp sensor that I know of.


I thought I read that there is a throttle position sensor, an RPM sensor, and an ambient temp sensor in the AT gen II system...


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## hamish (Dec 2, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Then why are people having to pay for replacement carbs? I'm missing something.





tlandrum said:


> the only reason a person would have to pay for a carb is if its out of warranty,been ported or modified which puts it out of warranty. or if they tried to fix it themselves. ill warranty them if they are sent to me ,so why are people buying carbs?



They jumped on the bandwagon, out of warranty, or bad dealer representation. Not once in all of this has anybody been able to provide the pertinent data. The actual carb/module, and most importantly firmware revision on the problematic saw, let alone the troubleshooting performed. Whens the last time you heard of anybody cleaning an EL46 carb?


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## Mastermind (Dec 2, 2014)

So now you're saying that there is nothing at all wrong with the EL46........that the problem is with the people......not the carb?


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## Chris-PA (Dec 2, 2014)

Does anyone know if it is controlling idle speed with ignition timing?


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## Mastermind (Dec 2, 2014)

I have a 562XP that has 5 hours on it.......and it has the classic bog. 

I installed an EL44 with the EL46 module........the bog is gone.....outta there. No more bog. Gone. 

I do this same swap pretty regularly. But I'm just imagining that the EL46 is the problem.......

Is that what you are saying?????


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## Mastermind (Dec 2, 2014)

I'm getting to be a grumpy old bastard ain't I?


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## tlandrum (Dec 2, 2014)

I do the same swap but I also do the el48 upgrade as well. some of the el46 carbs definitely have a problem. one thing I cant figure out is why some of them develop the problem later. it seems if it was just a bad carb it would be from the start. I really think the programing from the el46 fits the el44 much better.


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## hamish (Dec 2, 2014)

No actually some EL44's, 46's 47's have some problems. The immediate response is not component replacement.

Well seeing as you have the reader. What carb, module, coil and firmware version do you have?


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> the only reason a person would have to pay for a carb is if its out of warranty,been ported or modified which puts it out of warranty. or if they tried to fix it themselves. ill warranty them if they are sent to me ,so why are people buying carbs?


Terry,
What would you charge me to take a look at mine and fix it? I will try to get a duplicate receipt from my dealer to prove the purchase date and the reader will tell the rest of the story for run-time etc.

Hamish,
I'd love to provide you that data but seeing as the servicing dealer can't service it and the others won't w/o receipt. I don't have the $$$ for a reader so... I assure you I'm not on any bandwagon just pissed at a malfunctioning saw.


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## blsnelling (Dec 2, 2014)

It's certainly a hassle. I thought I got a great deal on my saw for only $580 shipped. Now I've spent an additional $80 on an EL48, and still have to deal with getting it programmed. What a pain! This is one of the reasons I waited so long to mess with this series. Once I get this one sorted out, I'm done. If I were a dealer, had the service tool, and access to the software, that would be different. But I'm not. It's not worth it to me to mess with them, so not worth it to buy the tool for this one saw.


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## MustangMike (Dec 2, 2014)

Can't every dealer trace UR purchase from the SN?


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## hamish (Dec 2, 2014)

blsnelling said:


> It's certainly a hassle. I thought I got a great deal on my saw for only $580 shipped. Now I've spent an additional $80 on an EL48, and still have to deal with getting it programmed. What a pain! This is one of the reasons I waited so long to mess with this series. Once I get this one sorted out, I'm done. If I were a dealer, had the service tool, and access to the software, that would be different. But I'm not. It's not worth it to me to mess with them, so not worth it to buy the tool for this one saw.



The biggest issue, even if you have all of that is being able to do something with it. Good thing you bought an $80 carb for a saw with how much runtime? Did you have the dealer you bought it from ensure it was flashed with the latest firmware ? 
Thus far firmware as a whole is on its 18th revision across Gen2.

Some dealers like some members here have the tools, just fail to use them.


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## hamish (Dec 2, 2014)

MustangMike said:


> Can't every dealer trace UR purchase from the SN?


Only if the saw was registered. Seems like the AT reader most dealers fail to register product also.


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## blsnelling (Dec 2, 2014)

hamish said:


> The biggest issue, even if you have all of that is being able to do something with it. Good thing you bought an $80 carb for a saw with how much runtime? Did you have the dealer you bought it from ensure it was flashed with the latest firmware ?
> Thus far firmware as a whole is on its 18th revision across Gen2.
> 
> Some dealers like some members here have the tools, just fail to use them.


That's the problem. I didn't buy it from an actual dealer. I would rather just replace the carb with the latest and be done with it....hopefully. When it runs like the 555 did with the EL49, I'll be happy.


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## Mastermind (Dec 2, 2014)

hamish said:


> No actually some EL44's, 46's 47's have some problems. The immediate response is not component replacement.
> 
> Well seeing as you have the reader. What carb, module, coil and firmware version do you have?



Hell I don't know.....or even care. 

I just know that the EL44 fixed the damn thing. 

With just a few hours run time it became a pain in the ass for a guy that had no idea what to do with it.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 2, 2014)

I'm just tried of being call either a liar or a whiner for my complaining about my saw not working right. It took awhile to save up the $700ish to buy it and I expected better.


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## hamish (Dec 2, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Hell I don't know.....or even care.
> 
> I just know that the EL44 fixed the damn thing.
> 
> With just a few hours run time it became a pain in the ass for a guy that had no idea what to do with it.



So basically like most people with anything today?

Thanks for the enlightenment.


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## hamish (Dec 3, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> I'm just tried of being call either a liar or a whiner for my complaining about my saw not working right. It took awhile to save up the $700ish to buy it and I expected better.


Who is calling you a liar or whiner? When I see a saw that has over 50 starts in the first hour of actual runtime, your either a pull-cord freak or there is an issue. Interpretation of the data can tell you a lot if you care to take a pittance of ones time. Yes I did say the first hour of run time, recorded run time. 
Run time is important. That is a flag for me. Some cat coming in with an issue and immediately "well on the internet" then grab a data capture, look you ran your saw for 7 minutes and throttle position has been at X of and your running your mix at what? 

Hell going out back and cutting some firewood (oh sorry AS no cookies) any issue will become apparent and treat and troubleshoot as such.

The aspect for those that see the issue developing after a long period of use, no its all within the first few hours of run time. The number of years that takes varies. The longest I have had an EL46 562 develop carb issues, non resolve-able, has been at 29:13, and that's a boatload of "real run time".

The whole thing is no different than omg you have a 357/359 with a walbro, heres a zama it will fix it. Oh a 300 series saw with a plastic intake clamp, oohhhhh bad change it.

A bad carb is a bad carb, plain and simple.


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## Mastermind (Dec 3, 2014)

Do you have any ****ing thing to offer here besides a condescending tone?


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## Mastermind (Dec 3, 2014)

You might be a smart guy Hamish........but you come off as a complete smart ass. That make me wanna tell you to "I have a potty mouth". 

Bye. 

I'm just gonna put your smart ass on ignore.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 3, 2014)

Hamish,
I'd truly love to get it plugged in and checked. I just don't think I should bear the entire bill but have no alternative w/o the receipt, locally anyway. I doubt my saw has 9 hours of run-time at this point and it's only mod is a Mooberized muffler, which changed it's over-all performance but not it's habits. I don't want a different saw I just want mine to idle and accelerate properly. A better set of spikes and a roller catcher would be alright... LOL


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## Pud (Dec 3, 2014)

All got the same story as me , mine ran great when i got it then after id put a couple chains on it the flat spot stall started happening and same as the other guys said only when its hot , i worked at a husky shop part time up until a couple months ago and its had a few carbs carby kit coils ive taken carbs of good running saws tried all the updates vac pressure tested and will agree with hamish there is alot of them and suppost to be the cure and actually are straight after u update they run great but after 2 tanks or so of fuel the flat spot ALWAYS comes back , i dunno what the tech guys are like at husky in other countries but they had no answers just new carb or coil , i actually did what mastermind does and put the original el44 back on doesnt run great but is bearable almost , every single autotune saw i have used runs great on the high end and i can only think of 1 that idles and is properly responsive so i dunno can they actually tune the low speed or get lost somehow can someone find one that runs properly and plug it in to see where it low speed is set at for us to compare ?? I also remember looking at the maximum carb temp on mine and nearly died they get seriously hot over hear vapor lock fuel boiling hot , anyway i found a fix that that solves the problem once and for all and will work for everyone else!!


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## gunrush128 (Dec 3, 2014)

blsnelling said:


> It's certainly a hassle. I thought I got a great deal on my saw for only $580 shipped. Now I've spent an additional $80 on an EL48, and still have to deal with getting it programmed. What a pain! This is one of the reasons I waited so long to mess with this series. Once I get this one sorted out, I'm done. If I were a dealer, had the service tool, and access to the software, that would be different. But I'm not. It's not worth it to me to mess with them, so not worth it to buy the tool for this one saw.



I'm in the exact same boat. I thought I got a great deal on the saw but now I after buying an EL48, I need to find a dealer that's willing/able to upload the latest software. 
Does anybody know if the upload will require the whole saw, or can I just bring in the carb? 
What a PITA!


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## tlandrum (Dec 3, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> Terry,
> What would you charge me to take a look at mine and fix it? I will try to get a duplicate receipt from my dealer to prove the purchase date and the reader will tell the rest of the story for run-time etc.



if your saw is under warranty send it to me and ill fix it under warranty at no cost just like any reputable dealer should do and you pay nothing but shipping.


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## Mastermind (Dec 3, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> if your saw is under warranty send it to me and ill fix it under warranty at no cost just like any reputable dealer should do and you pay nothing but shipping.




Repped


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## CJ1 (Dec 3, 2014)

Funny I posted a number of months ago with the same problems with at least 3 new 562's, Hammy blasted me and the dealer on that, then when I asked about the crank bearing issue on the 372/365's I got the same questioning, a couple weeks later a dealer confirmed the problem was a install issue. It's like the same M/O time and time again. CJ


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## Termite (Dec 3, 2014)

tlandrum said:


> I do the same swap but I also do the el48 upgrade as well. some of the el46 carbs definitely have a problem. one thing I cant figure out is why some of them develop the problem later. it seems if it was just a bad carb it would be from the start. I really think the programing from the el46 fits the el44 much better.



Why the problem develops over time and not right away is a good question. And why mine only does it after being heat soaked and doesn't act up immediately after a restart?


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## Terry Syd (Dec 3, 2014)

Pud said:


> I also remember looking at the maximum carb temp on mine and nearly died they get seriously hot over hear vapor lock fuel boiling hot , anyway i found a fix that that solves the problem once and for all and will work for everyone else!!



"Maximum carb temp"? So what does the software do, record the maximum temperature during a run?

What was the fix that you found that solves the problem?


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## Pud (Dec 3, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> "Maximum carb temp"? So what does the software do, record
> What was the fix that you found that solves the problem?



not sure why but does record maximum carb temp yes , and it was a ms461 that solved the problem for me


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## gunrush128 (Dec 3, 2014)

My EL48 arrived today...










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## Mastermind (Dec 3, 2014)

I heard a EL48 horror story today........


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## cityboy172 (Dec 3, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I heard a EL48 horror story today........


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## gunrush128 (Dec 3, 2014)

It definitely looks like the throttle plate has changed. There is also a plug on the on the new carb(intake side), that wasn't on the el46






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## gunrush128 (Dec 3, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I heard a EL48 horror story today........


Do tell....


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## Terry Syd (Dec 3, 2014)

Pud said:


> not sure why but does record maximum carb temp yes , and it was a ms461 that solved the problem for me



Aww, don't be cagey, give us the low down on the MS461 fix for the 562...

Or did you mean you sold the 562 and bought a MS461. In which case, you have moved on from parts swapping to saw swapping to fix a problem.


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## Mastermind (Dec 3, 2014)

gunrush128 said:


> Do tell....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'll let the feller that told me spill it.......if he wants it spilled.


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## boxygen (Dec 3, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> I'll let the feller that told me spill it.......if he wants it spilled.


Oh yeah Randy, give everyone blue balls...nice guy


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## Mastermind (Dec 3, 2014)

LMAO


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## one.man.band (Dec 3, 2014)

has anyone who has these problems (out of warranty of course) checked the freaking TPS sensor leads with a voltmeter?

sounds like a bare spot/thin spot on the carbon disk(s).

put the voltmeter on the highest ohm setting. move the throttle butterfly. if it's not a smooth transition in ohm reading through the limit of throttle opening, the sensor is bad. no amount of software can fix that, that i know of.

once you find where a quick drop in ohms is, narrow out where it is exactly on the TPS, by reducing the 'ohms' setting on the voltmeter.

-omb

hope this helps someone.

edit: typing is not my thing.


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## skylogger (Dec 3, 2014)

[emoji32]


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## gunrush128 (Dec 3, 2014)

I think that the cats out of the bag. Refer to Terry's recent post in the triple nickel thread


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## Pud (Dec 4, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> Aww, don't be cagey, give us the low down on the MS461 fix for the 562...
> 
> Or did you mean you sold the 562 and bought a MS461. In which case, you have moved on from parts swapping to saw swapping to fix a problem.


Still got the 562 though it has a nice even layer of dust on it , sometimes i even lend it to people


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## Terry Syd (Dec 4, 2014)

Too bad you don't live in NSW, if you were close I could try building a conventional carb for it. The carb off a 570 might be able to fit (its also bigger, 13.5mm venturi). Of course, there is so much extra stuff related to the AT (like the coil) a conventional carb might not work - but if it was mine, I'd sure as Hell give it a go. That's too good a saw to turn into a 'loaner' saw.


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## Pud (Dec 4, 2014)

Terry Syd said:


> Too bad you don't live in NSW, if you were close I could try building a conventional carb for it. The carb off a 570 might be able to fit (its also bigger, 13.5mm venturi). Of course, there is so much extra stuff related to the AT (like the coil) a conventional carb might not work - but if it was mine, I'd sure as Hell give it a go. That's too good a saw to turn into a 'loaner' saw.


U got me thinking and googleing , i know where a 460 x torque wreck is and the carb on them also looks very similar , the coil may not be the hardest part mounting the strato valve and linkage , on off choke tps and throttle cable all looks complicated , id like to just find a carb that fits block the strato port and see if it will run


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 4, 2014)

Mine will go to see Terry shortly. We'll see from there.


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## Mastermind (Dec 4, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> Mine will go to see Terry shortly. We'll see from there.



Good idea.


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## Termite (Dec 4, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> Mine will go to see Terry shortly. We'll see from there.



Seems like Terry is going to be busy. Poor Guy.


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## Terry Syd (Dec 4, 2014)

Pud said:


> U got me thinking and googleing , i know where a 460 x torque wreck is and the carb on them also looks very similar , the coil may not be the hardest part mounting the strato valve and linkage , on off choke tps and throttle cable all looks complicated , id like to just find a carb that fits block the strato port and see if it will run



You wouldn't block the strato ports, they are definitely necessary to make the big power. The carb is a C1M and it looks like the strato assembly bolts to it. You need to pull the existing carb and see if the carb is unique (like bolting up the strato assembly). If you can bolt the strato assembly to it, then you have to look at things like the direction of rotation of the choke. You may have to build your own choke stops in the carb. There's a lot to consider and the whole thing may not be do-able for the average bloke in the shed.


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## Pud (Dec 6, 2014)

Not a hesitation issue but has anyone done a crankcase gasket and had this its quite generous


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## Mastermind (Dec 7, 2014)

Had what?


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## LegDeLimber (Dec 7, 2014)

so thick you can see it between the dirt?


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## sunfish (Dec 7, 2014)

Mastermind said:


> Had what?


Looks fine to me?


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## Pud (Dec 7, 2014)

The gasket hangs out nearly an inch almost all the way round the case


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## sunfish (Dec 7, 2014)

Pud said:


> The gasket hangs out nearly an inch almost all the way round the case


One Inch? It sure doesn't look like an inch???


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## hamish (Dec 7, 2014)

Pud said:


> View attachment 384775
> Not a hesitation issue but has anyone done a crankcase gasket and had this its quite generous


Yes its normal for a replacement crankcase gasket, trim the two points at the base of the cylinder and your good to go.


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## Pud (Dec 8, 2014)

Sorry sunfish i got a bit carried away , used to metric


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## SCHallenger (Dec 9, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> The first test says yes. There were a few variables which means "the jury is still out" AFAIC. I did get it to full operating temp on Sun. (outdoor temp was a little over 50), & tested it off idle from immediately after a cut & again after 2sec, 10sec, & 30+sec. There was no hesitation. Throttle response was perfect. I'll report again when I'm sure the AT is properly dialed in & I get a chance to cut in something other than $!**%# cottonwood.



OK. I think I have some fairly significant info. on my saw with the EL48. I took it up north where I have a variety of stuff to cut last Wed.-Sat. OnThurs. the outdoor temp was mid 20s, & I ran it with the "gate" open. After a calibration run, I let it idle for 2sec., 10sec., & 30sec.,-1min. & had NO hesitation when throttled up. It was being run in Red Pine that day. On Fri., with the temp. in the mid 30s, I ran it with the "gate" closed. It started on the 2nd pull, fast idled & slow idled perfectly, spooled up like a rocket, & had NO off idle hesitation when tested at the same intervals as the day before, & it was cutting dry Honey Locust. Yesterday I took it to the dealer to demonstrate what I hoped would be a duplicate performance as before. It was!! It put a big grin on both of our faces! During the testing I ran about 2-3 tanks through it.


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## Chris-PA (Dec 9, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> OK. I think I have some fairly significant info. on my saw with the EL48. I took it up north where I have a variety of stuff to cut last Wed.-Sat. OnThurs. the outdoor temp was mid 20s, & I ran it with the "gate" open. After a calibration run, I let it idle for 2sec., 10sec., & 30sec.,-1min. & had NO hesitation when throttled up. It was being run in Red Pine that day. On Fri., with the temp. in the mid 30s, I ran it with the "gate" closed. It started on the 2nd pull, fast idled & slow idled perfectly, spooled up like a rocket, & had NO off idle hesitation when tested at the same intervals as the day before, & it was cutting dry Honey Locust. Yesterday I took it to the dealer to demonstrate what I hoped would be a duplicate performance as before. It was!! It put a big grin on both of our faces! During the testing I ran about 2-3 tanks through it.


Can you explain what you mean by the gate? I probably missed the reference and couldn't find anything relevant in the last couple of pages.


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## blsnelling (Dec 9, 2014)

SCHallenger said:


> OK. I think I have some fairly significant info. on my saw with the EL48. I took it up north where I have a variety of stuff to cut last Wed.-Sat. OnThurs. the outdoor temp was mid 20s, & I ran it with the "gate" open. After a calibration run, I let it idle for 2sec., 10sec., & 30sec.,-1min. & had NO hesitation when throttled up. It was being run in Red Pine that day. On Fri., with the temp. in the mid 30s, I ran it with the "gate" closed. It started on the 2nd pull, fast idled & slow idled perfectly, spooled up like a rocket, & had NO off idle hesitation when tested at the same intervals as the day before, & it was cutting dry Honey Locust. Yesterday I took it to the dealer to demonstrate what I hoped would be a duplicate performance as before. It was!! It put a big grin on both of our faces! During the testing I ran about 2-3 tanks through it.


Fantastic news. It's about time you have a usable saw! Glad you've got it sorted out.


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## sunfish (Dec 9, 2014)

Pud said:


> Sorry sunfish i got a bit carried away , used to metric


No problem man. I have a buddy in Sweden and we are always getting confused with measurements.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 9, 2014)

The saw should be in TN by the end of the week or Monday at the latest. Here's hoping for a fix!


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## SCHallenger (Dec 9, 2014)

Chris-PA said:


> Can you explain what you mean by the gate? I probably missed the reference and couldn't find anything relevant in the last couple of pages.



The gate is the passageway between the fins & the carburetor compartment. In the 562 it is marked by a recessed area in the firewall which must be punched out in order to allow engine heat into the carb compartment when the outdoor temp & humidity conditions might cause carb icing. If you ever do "open the gate", you have to get a plug from your dealer when you want to close the opening. Stihl recommends opening the gate when temps fall below 50. I usually do it around 40 on my Stihls & 30 on my 562XP.


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## Locust Cutter (Dec 9, 2014)

I've never punched mine out to try it with the gate open... I wonder if that is the problem?


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## SCHallenger (Dec 9, 2014)

Locust Cutter said:


> I've never punched mine out to try it with the gate open... I wonder if that is the problem?



It's not likely. I did that before when the EL46 was on it, & it made no difference. The hesitation was there either way. It may have made no difference with the EL48, but I just thought I would try it & see what happened. There was some question about whether or not it made a difference in an earlier part of this thread or in another thread. I didn't really prove anything here. I just thought I would report it in case someone was wondering if there was any noticeable effect.


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## MustangMike (Dec 9, 2014)

Glad to hear U got it worked out. Those 562s are nice saws, and it pains me to hear when people are having problems with some of them.


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## ChrisAdam45 (Jan 2, 2015)

I was recently given a brand new 562XP and haven't had a chance to run it yet. It's got a 2012 manufacture date (must have been on the shelf for a while) and a EL44B carb. Any predictions on whether it will have issues?


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## TK (Jan 2, 2015)

Who knows


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## M&Rtree (Jan 2, 2015)

Got to run it to find out. Mine has the old carb and has been flawless since new.


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## TIMBERTRON (Jan 2, 2015)

mine has el46 and hasnt missed a beat flawless and puts smile on my face it seems to just be a problem for certain ones and not a problem for others.

also this thread making it to 37 pages WOW i had no idea that there was this big of a problem with the saws i only had one come in that had hesitation off idle and it was the fuel metering spring and pop off presure that was doing it


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## lmbrman (Jan 3, 2015)

I have owned four of the 562 and one was a pita constantly. Third time it went to the dealer he put a new carb and coil on the saw under warranty. Been perfect ever since.

My dealer felt bad about the time I wasted with that one 562, so he gave me a box-o-562, trade in with 700 hours on it, bearing gave out. I rebuilt the bottom end, installed a new p/c, original EL46 carb. Strongest of all the 562 I ever ran. The old p/c were still useable but I wanted the saw 'as new'.

My dealer was/is good to me, but there is nothing worse than a crappy saw, and that one 562 was worthless as sold to me. Dealer made it more than right.


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## MustangMike (Jan 3, 2015)

Nice to hear of good endings, but sorry for what U went through.


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## naturelover (Jan 3, 2015)

Good grief, Husqvarna still hasn't fixed this yet?!?!?


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## tlandrum (Jan 3, 2015)

the problem has been fixed for quite some time now. the el48 is the updated replacement for saws that need it. not all saws do. if you have one that does don't whine and moan and complain about it on the web,take it and have it updated under warranty.


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## M&Rtree (Jan 3, 2015)

It wasn't a huge problem. This is a saw site and lots of internet folks come here so you see lots of issue's. I've run 5 with the old carb with zero issue's. My personal saw for going on three years with no problems.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 4, 2015)

tlandrum said:


> the problem has been fixed for quite some time now. the el48 is the updated replacement for saws that need it. not all saws do. if you have one that does don't whine and moan and complain about it on the web,take it and have it updated under warranty.


Yes, Husqvarna finally fixed the problem but how long did it take? And how long did they basically deny that there was a problem and then say that it was a few isolated cases? Their customer service on ALL levels is less than awful. Their saving grace is some good dealers. I'm fortunate that I found one even though he is 5 hours away. Thanks Terry.


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## naturelover (Jan 4, 2015)

tlandrum said:


> the problem has been fixed for quite some time now. the el48 is the updated replacement for saws that need it. not all saws do. if you have one that does don't whine and moan and complain about it on the web,take it and have it updated under warranty.



Just seems like it shouldn't have been such a process. I do wonder why some saws would need it and some saws wouldn't though, seems like that would be an issue across all saws with that common carb. 

Think they should have took a play from Stihl's playbook and did as they did with the 661c.

I'm a Stihl guy, but I want these more fuel efficient and cleaner burning saws to become commonplace, so hopefully they've got it straightened out. 









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## Chris-PA (Jan 4, 2015)

naturelover said:


> I do wonder why some saws would need it and some saws wouldn't though, seems like that would be an issue across all saws with that common carb.


This is a misconception about manufacturing - there can be design errors that effect all units, and there can be parts tolerances that effect only some. And combinations of both that drive engineers nuts. 

It sounds like there is a problem with the tolerances on the throttle position sensing system on some units, so that the control processor does not see the throttle opening in time. 

In a manufacturing environment such issues are simply the daily grind - nothing is ever identical. The best defence is manufacturing personnel who are alert and raise the alarm when things are not right.


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## lmbrman (Jan 4, 2015)

I did learn a good lesson from my 'bad' 562, which is find a dealer you can trust and buy from that person. Local dealer, or a known level headed good dealer here on AS. I have purchased dozens of new saws, stihl and husky over the years and this one 562 was the first I ever needed a warranty. That speaks well to the quality of both stihl and husky.

My first 562 was flawless, like many here on AS, and I was quite vocal about it. I thought it prudent to share the experience of a 'bad' 562 with equal merit. 

Definitely not whining, not exaggerating. Saw was worthless as sold to me. Dealer, supported by husky more than satisfied me and all I had to do was tell him the truth about the saws value.

-dave


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## c5rulz (Jan 4, 2015)

Dave, wonder if that good dealer of yours can get Total Super bars?


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## lmbrman (Jan 4, 2015)

c5rulz said:


> Dave, wonder if that good dealer of yours can get Total Super bars?



only if he can read a chart, both rows and columns, and note the part number to ask for 

while a couple ace mechanics distract him


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## c5rulz (Jan 4, 2015)

lmbrman said:


> only if he can read a chart, both rows and columns, and note the part number to ask for
> 
> while a couple ace mechanics distract him




Hmmm. Like this:







Didn't get a pic of the three more new ones in 3/8ths, 50 gauge small mount yet or the one on the 288.


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## lmbrman (Jan 4, 2015)

hoarder-


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## c5rulz (Jan 4, 2015)

lmbrman said:


> hoarder-



Speak for thy self.


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## hamish (Jan 4, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> Yes, Husqvarna finally fixed the problem but how long did it take? And how long did they basically deny that there was a problem and then say that it was a few isolated cases? Their customer service on ALL levels is less than awful. Their saving grace is some good dealers. I'm fortunate that I found one even though he is 5 hours away. Thanks Terry.


There are still problems with the EL48, but like the EL46 and EL44 it is individual carb problems, it is not clean across the board. In over two years of this BS Husqvarna has yet to issue a service bulletin on the matter, in a numbers case that's how small it is. Over three years of production with the same carb worldwide and how many "problematic" ones are there?

Yeah give your head a shake.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 4, 2015)

hamish said:


> There are still problems with the EL48, but like the EL46 and EL44 it is individual carb problems, it is not clean across the board. In over two years of this BS Husqvarna has yet to issue a service bulletin on the matter, in a numbers case that's how small it is. Over three years of production with the same carb worldwide and how many "problematic" ones are there?
> 
> Yeah give your head a shake.


But there were even less case bolt and fuel tank vent issues but there were TIB's issued on those.


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## hamish (Jan 4, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> But there were even less case bolt and fuel tank vent issues but there were TIB's issued on those.


Crankcase gasket failure and av mounts were a crap load, gee even took two service bulletins to address the crankcase gaskets. I have done over 20 crankcase gasket replacements, and just one carb replacement.
You think there were fewer incidences of other failures, however they were much greater and more detrimental than some carb issues.
The EL44 is the same as the EL46 carb wise....................
It boils down to basic troubleshooting and realizing not to keep chasing your tail when a bad carb is a bad carb.
Numbers wise the carb issue is a mute point in the big picture, most likely less than 5% of all units and in reality after getting rid of misdiagnosis, less than 1%.

There will be problems with the EL50 also, just give it time.


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## Mastermind (Jan 4, 2015)

I must have got all of the ****ed up ones then.........I've seen a **** load.


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## lmbrman (Jan 4, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> I must have got all of the ****ed up ones then.........I've seen a **** load.



I think my dealer hands out your contact info for all AT saws


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## Junkfxr (Jan 4, 2015)

hamish said:


> Crankcase gasket failure and av mounts were a crap load, gee even took two service bulletins to address the crankcase gaskets. I have done over 20 crankcase gasket replacements, and just one carb replacement.
> You think there were fewer incidences of other failures, however they were much greater and more detrimental than some carb issues.
> The EL44 is the same as the EL46 carb wise....................
> It boils down to basic troubleshooting and realizing not to keep chasing your tail when a bad carb is a bad carb.
> ...


Mr Hamish, I refuse to continue this banter with you, for you always have an answer. Apparently you are a self appointed chainsaw god and no one other than you knows anything at all about working on them. You have a good day sir.


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## ash man (Jan 4, 2015)

If this thread was started and i read it, I doubt I would have bought one when I did. I'm just lucky I bought mine from Terry and he's trying to make it right.


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## sunfish (Jan 4, 2015)

I got a good one, 2011. First run I believe...


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## ash man (Jan 4, 2015)

Mines a 2013 2260 with the hesitation issues from the start and a couple other bigger ones Terry is in the middle of figuring out. I feel bad for Terry, he's spending his precious time on warranty work when he could be porting saws.


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## Mastermind (Jan 4, 2015)

You must have got the only other one that ever had the bog.


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## CR888 (Jan 4, 2015)

you would think in 2014.....well 2015 now a company as big as Husky could fit a reliable working carburettor on a 60cc two stroke engine. Its a shame as the 562 is prolly their best saw. Reminds me of my ms200t.....when everything is working as it should its a pleasure to use but a little unnessasary accelerator pump acting up will frustrate you to the point you start despising the saw.


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## MustangMike (Jan 5, 2015)

There is a thread about fixing that carb on the 200. My brother has one, loves it, but has had carb issues.


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## Pud (Jan 5, 2015)

Hopefully after el 86 they will start coming from walbro


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## ChrisAdam45 (Jan 6, 2015)

So after 38 pages and a few youtube videos do I understand this correctly? 
The EL44 had fewer problem cases than the EL46, and the EL44's that did have problems were typically fixed by rotating the throttle butterfly until it was correctly indexed so its notches lined up with the transfer slots. Is that right?


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## ChrisAdam45 (Jan 6, 2015)

Also, what are the problems with the new EL48's? I hadn't heard about issues yet...


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## CR888 (Jan 6, 2015)

MustangMike said:


> There is a thread about fixing that carb on the 200. My brother has one, loves it, but has had carb issues.


Oh l know how to fix them.....l just wish l was'nt such an expert from all the practice. But on the note of husky carbs, l have a 555 which has good throttle response and an ATsystem/carb that works spot on. lt is not a high hour saw yet though.


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## Locust Cutter (Jan 6, 2015)

Well, my saw is also at Terry's. Hopefully he can get it running right and I will truly enjoy getting it back. I really do enjoy it and when was using it, it caused my 372 to sit at home a lot. I love my 372 but I'd like to have the 562 back, running as it should in the winter as that's my prime cutting season for Hedge...


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## lmbrman (Jan 6, 2015)

I like the 562, but not gonna choose it when the zombies come.


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## MustangMike (Jan 7, 2015)

That was good! I think my 044 also gets the nod over my 362 in that category!


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## Chris-PA (Jan 7, 2015)

lmbrman said:


> I like the 562, but not gonna choose it when the zombies come.


Because the zombies all like Stihls?


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 7, 2015)

Chris-PA said:


> Because the zombies all like Stihls?


NOOO!!! Because a hesitation issue could be deadly


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## CJ1 (Jan 7, 2015)

Esp when it dies at the hit of the throttle! CJ


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## Junkfxr (Jan 7, 2015)

It's baaaack. My first 562 didn't start acting up until the weather turned cold and the saw got warmed up good. Husky replaced it with another one with the same problem except worse. I finally got it fixed with an EL44 carb back in the summer and it's been doing real good but we've not had any cold weather to speak of yet. This morning was 22 degrees so I took it to the log pile and used it for a while. Same thing. After it gets warmed up good and idles for several seconds. it has a pretty good hesitation but nothing like the original problem that I had. At least it doesn't die when I hit the throttle so it's still usable. Supposed to be in the single digits tomorrow morning, maybe I'll see if it gets any worse in that temperature.


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## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2015)

I've got another one in route. I replaced the 46 with a 44, and it was fine in warmer weather. Now the bog is back. 

Maybe we need to send a few of these to Hamish.....


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## MustangMike (Jan 7, 2015)

It sounds like a nightmare, hope a solution that works in all weather is found!


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## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2015)

Just a 1%er.....


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## SCHallenger (Jan 7, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> It's baaaack. My first 562 didn't start acting up until the weather turned cold and the saw got warmed up good. Husky replaced it with another one with the same problem except worse. I finally got it fixed with an EL44 carb back in the summer and it's been doing real good but we've not had any cold weather to speak of yet. This morning was 22 degrees so I took it to the log pile and used it for a while. Same thing. After it gets warmed up good and idles for several seconds. it has a pretty good hesitation but nothing like the original problem that I had. At least it doesn't die when I hit the throttle so it's still usable. Supposed to be in the single digits tomorrow morning, maybe I'll see if it gets any worse in that temperature.



Check out post#715 on P36 & post#722 on P37. Here is a follow up on both of them. I took it out last week with the outdoor temp @ 16 & the wind blowing 20-30mph. I left the gate closed just for testing purposes. It started normally both hot & cold. It idled as it should @ both slow & fast idle. AND, best of all, it cut like a screaming banshee in 36in maple using the 24in B&C. There was NO hesitation off idle when tested @ 2sec., 10sec., & 30+sec. intervals. I have done about everything you can do with it as far as testing it in a wide range of temps, & it has been perfect! About the only thing that remains to be seen is whether or not it changes after several more hours of use. So far the EL 48 has been a magic bullet!


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## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2015)

The EL48 might be next for CJs saw. I think Husqvarna should pay for it though.


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## SCHallenger (Jan 7, 2015)

SCHallenger said:


> Check out post#715 on P36 & post#722 on P37. Here is a follow up on both of them. I took it out last week with the outdoor temp @ 16 & the wind blowing 20-30mph. I left the gate closed just for testing purposes. It started normally both hot & cold. It idled as it should @ both slow & fast idle. AND, best of all, it cut like a screaming banshee in 36in maple using the 24in B&C. There was NO hesitation off idle when tested @ 2sec., 10sec., & 30+sec. intervals. I have done about everything you can do with it as far as testing it in a wide range of temps, & it has been perfect! About the only thing that remains to be seen is whether or not it changes after several more hours of use. So far the EL 48 has been a magic bullet!


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## super3 (Jan 7, 2015)

If only Husky would just stop buying those ####ty carbs that Stihl makes.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 7, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> I've got another one in route. I replaced the 46 with a 44, and it was fine in warmer weather. Now the bog is back.
> 
> Maybe we need to send a few of these to Hamish.....



I say we load up the back of my truck with the "1%" and deliver them to Mr Hamish in person. I'll drive and supply the fuel. Always wanted to see the great white north.



Mastermind said:


> The EL48 might be next for CJs saw. I think Husqvarna should pay for it though.



I would love to give the 48 a try even if I have to pay for it but I'll have to ship the saw off to have it done and shipping a saw is a real pain for me. Our local Husqvarna dealers leave a lot to be desired and that is saying the nicest thing that I can about them.


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## blsnelling (Jan 7, 2015)

The saw does not need shipped. You can provide the dealer with the product id and SN, and program the carb before shipping it.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 7, 2015)

Do you mean that the dealer can program the carb and then ship it to me for me to install it?


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## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> I say we load up the back of my truck with the "1%" and deliver them to Mr Hamish in person.



Better be a big damn truck......


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## blsnelling (Jan 7, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> Do you mean that the dealer can program the carb and then ship it to me for me to install it?


Yes. I don't know how that would work with a warranty case, but that's how I did mine.


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## MustangMike (Jan 7, 2015)

Brad, did yours work, and was it not under warranty???


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## ash man (Jan 7, 2015)

Mustang I love ya brother, but I've never seen somebody that loves Stihl saws as much as you, be so concerned about a Husky hesitation issue. You must be eating this sh** up.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 7, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Yes. I don't know how that would work with a warranty case, but that's how I did mine.



Thanks, I didn't know it worked that way. I guess that I assumed that there was an ecm on the saw somewhere and not just on the carburetor.


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## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2015)

I was a total StihlHead.......then I found that some Huskys could be made to put a hurt on my beloved Stihls. I ended up with 9 372XPs on my shelf. I love me a 346xp, and a 372xp.......love em. 

Well.......then I started seeing issues with the Huskys that I'd never seen with my Stihls. 

For instance......Just tore down a brand new 346XP......the fuel line fell off as I was getting the carb screws out. It was only on about 2mm. 

I've sold most of my Huskys......


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## Junkfxr (Jan 7, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> I was a total StihlHead.......then I found that some Huskys could be made to put a hurt on my beloved Stihls. I ended up with 9 372XPs on my shelf. I love me a 346xp, and a 372xp.......love em.
> 
> Well.......then I started seeing issues with the Huskys that I'd never seen with my Stihls.
> 
> ...



I'm kind of in the same boat. I was basically born with a Stihl in my hands and never had a reason to try a Husky until I demoed some at a logging expo several years ago and was impressed with the speed. Well, I'm about over that now just because of the problems with this 562. I'm tired of fighting it, never had problems like this until I got this saw and I can't seem to get it fixed. Some people live to work on and tinker with saws, not me. I love using them but want nothing to do with working on them any more. I turned wrenches for too may years I reckon and don't care if I ever see another one. Can you say burned out? That's one of the reasons that I buy "pro" model saws, so that they just work. I'm giving a lot of consideration into making this saw a very expensive door stop or paper weight. Just tired of fooling with it not running like it ought too and the lack of local support and the lack of caring from the manufacturer.


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## ash man (Jan 7, 2015)

I love pretty much everything about Husky saws, but my 2260 has me second guessing myself. Actually been looking on cl for a clean 361. I don't understand what's up with the 562/2260 carbs. My little 550 hasn't missed a beat the last year I've had it. Its 6° in Ohio and I had the 550 out for a bit today and it ran flawlessly. If Husky can use a different carb on that saw and it seems to work, why not use something similar on the 562. I just hope the 550 has the longevity of my old 029 super and 036. I never babied those saws at all and they always worked.


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## blsnelling (Jan 7, 2015)

Put a new EL48 on it. It fixed my 2260.


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## ash man (Jan 7, 2015)

It's at Terrys now. I tell him you suggest it.


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## lmbrman (Jan 7, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> Do you mean that the dealer can program the carb and then ship it to me for me to install it?



Yes, but in my case that did not fix it for long, just temporary, like ten hours use. I needed a new coil and carb. Carb was not the only issue for me. Just before it became wheel chuck status I could not keep it running without the choke on, no error codes ever showed up. Thing has been fine with new carb and coil, thirty hours use so far, but I don't trust it much. Not predictable, or maybe it is I guess, predictably untrustworthy.

I started rebuilding all my 200series saws. Refreshing to see one wire and one fuel line. How simple, easy to work on. Easily fixed by a dummy like me.

even a monkey could fix it


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## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2015)

blsnelling said:


> Put a new EL48 on it. It fixed my 2260.



That's good B'Rad.....

I just hope it stays fixed. 

I've fixed them with the EL44, only to have the fix become unfixed when the weather changes.


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## blsnelling (Jan 7, 2015)

This is the first "562" I've had. I put it off for a long time, and still got burnt with a bad carb. I had to eat the cost on my EL48. I'm just happy to see it running right.


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## lmbrman (Jan 7, 2015)

At one point there were no less than 10 562 sitting in a pile at one dealer I frequent. Most had bearings out, fulltime users. Now if they had enough hours on them, not an issue. I got one such machine from him, had about 700hours on it. Rebuilt it is the best 562 I ever ran.

I wonder about all the crud that gets between the filter and intake on mine. There is a leak there.


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## MustangMike (Jan 7, 2015)

Ash Man, just cause I like Stihl does not mean that I dislike Husky or Husky users. I wish everyone's saw ran well so we could judge them based on other things. I pay attention to threads like this because I almost bought one of these, and to stay aware of what is going on.

I feel for those who have a recurring problem with their saw, it can not be any fun, and I don't tease anyone about it. It does not matter what brand saw U like, I don't wish that on anyone.

I'm also curious if anyone is going to come up with a clear explanation of what is causing the problem.

Good luck with your saw.


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## Pud (Jan 8, 2015)

El 48 in the trading post for u guys $70 shipped


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## Mastermind (Jan 8, 2015)

MustangMike said:


> I'm also curious if anyone is going to come up with a clear explanation of what is causing the problem.



That's what I would like to find......but I'm far too busy to devote as much time as I would like to just this one problematic saw.


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## MustangMike (Jan 8, 2015)

I know the ones you've ported run fantastic, but I'm surprised U still do them given all the problems. Has to be a major headache for U to fix a problem only to have it come back again a few months later.


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## Mastermind (Jan 8, 2015)

I live to serve.


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## LegDeLimber (Jan 8, 2015)

My apologies if I've overlooked the answer. How *exactly* Is the carb listed or labeled?
Is it EL48, EL-48 or does it have a prefix like C1M, C1Q or some other characters?

There are aspects of the carb, that I'd like to see and Exactly how they're accomplished.

I'd like to see if the good parts of information around here, could be sorted a little bit 
and maybe begin to map out what truly affects what and why so.

And as is typical, I'm curious as to the venturi sizes, Burt both fuel path AND strato circuit.
I might be a teency bit more curious about the fuel venturi size.


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## CJ1 (Jan 9, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> The EL48 might be next for CJs saw. I think Husqvarna should pay for it though.


So far they have paid twice and I would be my dealer would give me a carb or whatever is needed to fix this thing but they really don't know. I hate using up your time, caus I know you are busy but you know I will cover you for what ever you have in this thing! This saw runs so dang good otherwise after you ported it or I would not be spending a dime more on this thing. We'll take another crack at this thing and if that don't get it, I'll have you build a 372XPG and be done with it. CJ


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## CJ1 (Jan 9, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> Better be a big damn truck......


I have 3 more from a buddies crew that I can add to that shipment. And a 555! With all of Hammys expertise it should not take but a few hours to fix em all. CJ


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## CJ1 (Jan 9, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> I'm kind of in the same boat. I was basically born with a Stihl in my hands and never had a reason to try a Husky until I demoed some at a logging expo several years ago and was impressed with the speed. Well, I'm about over that now just because of the problems with this 562. I'm tired of fighting it, never had problems like this until I got this saw and I can't seem to get it fixed. Some people live to work on and tinker with saws, not me. I love using them but want nothing to do with working on them any more. I turned wrenches for too may years I reckon and don't care if I ever see another one. Can you say burned out? That's one of the reasons that I buy "pro" model saws, so that they just work. I'm giving a lot of consideration into making this saw a very expensive door stop or paper weight. Just tired of fooling with it not running like it ought too and the lack of local support and the lack of caring from the manufacturer.



I feel the same way, too busy working on outboards and boats to screw around with saws. I'll trade this sucker in on a 372 and give Randy a brake on this thing! In the old days it would have ended up under the tracks of the dozer like a 410 and a rancher did. CJ


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## Mastermind (Jan 9, 2015)

CJ1 said:


> So far they have paid twice and I would be my dealer would give me a carb or whatever is needed to fix this thing but they really don't know. I hate using up your time, caus I know you are busy but you know I will cover you for what ever you have in this thing! This saw runs so dang good otherwise after you ported it or I would not be spending a dime more on this thing. We'll take another crack at this thing and if that don't get it, I'll have you build a 372XPG and be done with it. CJ



Well it is admirable that they have ponied up for the repairs. I'll just get an EL48 and install the correct firmware.


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## CJ1 (Jan 9, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> Well it is admirable that they have ponied up for the repairs. I'll just get an EL48 and install the correct firmware.



They really are top notch and they are less than willing to recommend this saw until Husky fixes it. I have not had a chance to ship it yet, how much will the repairs cost? I will throw it in with the saw. CJ


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## Mastermind (Jan 9, 2015)

I'm not sure.....we'll worry about that after it's fixed. OK?


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## CJ1 (Jan 9, 2015)

Your just too nice, I'll give you a couple of goodies to get started!


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## Mastermind (Jan 9, 2015)

I'm gonna try a couple of tricks on the 44 that is on it first.......then if we have to.......the 48.


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## hamish (Jan 9, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> I say we load up the back of my truck with the "1%" and deliver them to Mr Hamish in person. I'll drive and supply the fuel. Always wanted to see the great white north.



Sure bring them on up, is it a southern thing not being able to change carbs?


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## Mastermind (Jan 9, 2015)

hamish said:


> Sure bring them on up, is it a southern thing not being able to change carbs?



You said that you've only changed one. That hardly makes you well qualified.


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## hamish (Jan 9, 2015)

Have only needed to change one. Why would you default to having to put an EL48 on a saw, much better to continue to chase your tail. Yeah the fix has been out for awhile almost a year, lets continue to flog a dead horse. 

Its still an numbers game, regretfully most cant understand it, 317 ish million in the US, so basically 500 million in the US, the US is the largest market for chainsaws globally. 35 million in all of Canada. The volume of sales..............ah whats the point, pretty much futile in these means.

A bad 44 or 46 will be done under warranty, even if the saw is out of warranty almost no questions asked.


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## lmbrman (Jan 9, 2015)

Hamish, I wish there were more dealers like yourself who know how to easily fix the problem. I searched for such a dealer prior to my purchase and found one I had confidence in. He has been great. I found five dealers in my area who still refuse to purchase the computer reader gizmo.

Maybe locally it has to do with the economy of running a saw shop, or resistance to change, I don't know. Two of the husky only saw shops closed last year.


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## hamish (Jan 9, 2015)

lmbrman said:


> Hamish, I wish there were more dealers like yourself who know how to easily fix the problem. I searched for such a dealer prior to my purchase and found one I had confidence in. He has been great. I found five dealers in my area who still refuse to purchase the computer reader gizmo.
> 
> Maybe locally it has to do with the economy of running a saw shop, or resistance to change, I don't know. Two of the husky only saw shops closed last year.


I attended Husqvarnas annual service update school recently. with over 30 techs the 562 was a non issue, for the technical rep from NC it was the white elephant of the day, (he was waiting for lashing on the 562 that never came) Troubleshooting, then proceed as is, in most cases swap out the carb. Done deal everybody goes away happy.
The other side of the coin lets chase our tails and not know nothing about nothing and find an excuse. This is no different than vac and pressure testing a saw, something most fail miserably at or even fail to do.

Work orders with 10+ hours($750) for a saw worth $300, go learn something or beat your head with a hammer.

Yeah a new 46 will fix a bad 46, but hey you cant even get a 46 anymore so its 48 time.


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## Mastermind (Jan 9, 2015)

I bet y'all gave each other reacharounds too..... 

Your smug ass tone just annoys the hell outta me Hamish. 

Just sayin.


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## lmbrman (Jan 9, 2015)

Hamish, what did you learn about the updated intake for the 562? I heard at school it will come out soon?


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## hamish (Jan 9, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> I bet y'all gave each other reacharounds too.....
> 
> Your smug ass tone just annoys the hell outta me Hamish.
> 
> Just sayin.


nah no reacharound, big sweaty American ain't my thing


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## lmbrman (Jan 9, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> I bet y'all gave each other reacharounds too.....
> 
> Your smug ass tone just annoys the hell outta me Hamish.
> 
> Just sayin.



take the banana out of yur ear, a bad echo can drive a guy nuts


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## hamish (Jan 9, 2015)

lmbrman said:


> Hamish, what did you learn about the updated intake for the 562? I heard at school it will come out soon?


what part of the intake? part that has been failing miserably in cold climates on all the 500 series saws? That were only spec'd put for saws bound for Russia, but now have been spec'd for here?


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## Mastermind (Jan 9, 2015)

I've yet to see that smug mfer contribute anything here but a smart ass attitude. Phuck him.


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## RedFir Down (Jan 9, 2015)

hamish said:


> I attended Husqvarnas annual service update school recently. with over 30 techs the 562 was a non issue, for the technical rep from NC it was the white elephant of the day, (he was waiting for lashing on the 562 that never came) Troubleshooting, then proceed as is, in most cases swap out the carb. Done deal everybody goes away happy.
> The other side of the coin lets chase our tails and not know nothing about nothing and find an excuse. This is no different than vac and pressure testing a saw, something most fail miserably at or even fail to do.
> 
> Work orders with 10+ hours($750) for a saw worth $300, go learn something or beat your head with a hammer.
> ...


That is shocking... and here all this time I thought they just let you start in the back of the shop (from sweeping the floors, washing windows and scrubbing toilets) to unbox the chainsaws, put the loop thingys with sharp teeth on the blades and set them on the display! Was I ever wrong.








Do you know what the word arrogant means Hamish?


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## Schells (Jan 10, 2015)

well its been a little cold here in MN and mine sure doesn't run or stay running like it did this summer. I start it and let it warm up a bit and cut and it surges all through the cut like it starving for fuel.


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2015)

RedFir Down said:


> That is shocking... and here all this time I thought they just let you start in the back of the shop (from sweeping the floors, washing windows and scrubbing toilets) to unbox the chainsaws, put the loop thingys with sharp teeth on the blades and set them on the display! Was I ever wrong.
> 
> Do you know what the word arrogant means Hamish?



Yes I do, should I be arrogant for swapping out a bad carb in 15 minutes versus having a irate end user, yes I must be arrogant. If I fail to take the time to learn and understand how things work, yes I am arrogant. If I fail to use the tools available to me yes I am arrogant.

Enjoy


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> I've yet to see that smug mfer contribute anything here but a smart ass attitude. Phuck him.


Well Randy have you figured out the Manual for the AT reader I sent you last year?

Might I ask what is your attitude?


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## RedFir Down (Jan 10, 2015)

hamish said:


> Yes I do, should I be arrogant for swapping out a bad carb in 15 minutes versus having a irate end user, yes I must be arrogant. If I fail to take the time to learn and understand how things work, yes I am arrogant. If I fail to use the tools available to me yes I am arrogant.
> 
> Enjoy


Lets try this again. Do you know what it means to be humble? Or know how to show humility?


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## Mastermind (Jan 10, 2015)

I'm never again gonna take the mfer off ignore. 

He makes my blood pressure too high.


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## hamish (Jan 10, 2015)

RedFir Down said:


> Lets try this again. Do you know what it means to be humble? Or know how to show humility?


yes I do I am Canadian, its what we do.


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## lmbrman (Jan 10, 2015)

and yet it's soo dayum cold outside . . .


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## RedFir Down (Jan 10, 2015)

hamish said:


> yes I do I am Canadian, its what we do.


Interesting, I recommend you look the definition up and reread it.


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## Schells (Jan 10, 2015)

yep its in the negative


lmbrman said:


> and yet it's soo dayum cold outside . . .


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## SawTroll (Jan 10, 2015)

As far as I know, most issues are related to the - 46 carbs, and there isn't really a lot of them.

Then think about who owns Zama, and ultimately is to blame......


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## MustangMike (Jan 10, 2015)

If the fix is so darn simple & rare, why so many cases of repeat problems???

And if ZAMA mfg is to blame (and not a design flaw), why the H*** don't they just switch???

And why not a recall on the bad carbs at the co expense, since problems often don't surface right away??? (Instead of only if U R still under warranty?)

And, has the problem been fixed??? Are there no bad 48s??? If they fixed the problem what was the problem???

I hear a lot of talk, but not many real answers.


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## super3 (Jan 10, 2015)

SawTroll said:


> As far as I know, most issues are related to the - 46 carbs, and there isn't really a lot of them.
> 
> Then think about who owns Zama, and ultimately is to blame......



Stihl has them build the good carbs for the their own saws and junk ones for the huskys. Yep, that must be it.


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## Junkfxr (Jan 10, 2015)

hamish said:


> yes I do I am Canadian, its what we do.



DO WHAT??


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## SawTroll (Jan 10, 2015)

super3 said:


> Stihl has them build the good carbs for the their own saws and junk ones for the huskys. Yep, that must be it.




What I actually think about the matter, is that it likely wasn't a good move to select Zama for making a new kind if carb. The Stihl connection was of course a joke- even though Stihl does own Zama!


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## MountainHigh (Jan 16, 2015)

Hi All ... and Happy New Year! 
So far this thread is better than TV


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## quotejso2 (Jan 16, 2015)

Only problem with my 562 is keeping it out of the dirt because it cuts too fast. Anyone have any idea of the actual % of affected saws?


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## MustangMike (Jan 17, 2015)

Welcome back Mountain!

I don't think anyone really knows. Some saws just seem to run great (old & new), and other folk continue to have problems with "fixed saws" or replacement saws, which must be very frustrating.

Hopefully the problems will be resolved because it is, otherwise, a really good saw.


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## MountainHigh (Jan 18, 2015)

tlandrum said:


> the problem has been fixed for quite some time now. the el48 is the updated replacement for saws that need it. not all saws do. if you have one that does don't whine and moan and complain about it on the web,take it and have it updated under warranty.



that about sums things up. Do new 562xp's come with the el48 now and if so, what serial numbers/dates did they start? Anyone? Thanks.



quotejso2 said:


> Only problem with my 562 is keeping it out of the dirt because it cuts too fast. Anyone have any idea of the actual % of affected saws?



Ditto ... have to hold on tight when bucking up logs, the dirt comes up awful fast.


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## crzybowhntr (Feb 2, 2015)

tlandrum said:


> if the saws under warranty then yes they will let an authorized dealer replace it.


I am experiencing the bog/hesitation issue now. What is a good way to approach my dealer in order to get it updated to the EL48? Any articles you all have access to from Husqvarna that documents the known issue that you can share with me? I would like to walk in there and just ask for it to be done (in a very polite understanding manner, not in a "do this for me now" kinda way) but I know there is a protocol dealers have to follow. Any shortcuts to getting it done? This dealer is not very tech savvy and has mentioned in the past if any issues arise it just needs retuned so you probably understand my dilema. It is under warranty for just under the next 3 years. I have about 4-5 gallons through it and has the EL46.


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## MustangMike (Feb 2, 2015)

Good Luck with it. Isolated problem my A**!


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## hamish (Feb 2, 2015)

crzybowhntr said:


> I am experiencing the bog/hesitation issue now. What is a good way to approach my dealer in order to get it updated to the EL48? Any articles you all have access to from Husqvarna that documents the known issue that you can share with me? I would like to walk in there and just ask for it to be done (in a very polite understanding manner, not in a "do this for me now" kinda way) but I know there is a protocol dealers have to follow. Any shortcuts to getting it done? This dealer is not very tech savvy and has mentioned in the past if any issues arise it just needs retuned so you probably understand my dilema. It is under warranty for just under the next 3 years. I have about 4-5 gallons through it and has the EL46.


If it is a carb issue, the dealers only choice is to replace it with the EL48 as the EL46 and 46 spares are no longer available.

Quickest route is have your dealer contact tech support describe the symptoms, checks performed and result, then will be told to replace the carb.


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## albert (Feb 2, 2015)

SawTroll said:


> As far as I know, most issues are related to the - 46 carbs, and there isn't really a lot of them.
> 
> Then think about who owns Zama, and ultimately is to blame......


 That says alot husqvarna's comitment to be the best doesn't it? Reallly isn't alot of them, You must be high or something, husqvarna's always the best blah blah blah, then when they f up it's the competitions fault. I would take a echo over that series of husqvarn/jonsered with out thinking twice.


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## Locust Cutter (Mar 31, 2015)

Follow-up:
It was pointed out by one f te posters on here that I never said anything about getting the saw fixed. I ended up shipping it out to Terry who got with Husky and warrantied my saw. I now have a spanking new EL48 on there and the off-idle bog is gone. It idles exactly as it should (for well over 30 seconds) and actually got a bit more high end pull as well. I am ecstatic about the saw and how it performs. I also couldn't be more pleased about the interaction with Terry, even though I forgot to send the check for about a week after I said I would, (SORRY AGAIN TERRY!!!). Since I've gotten it back I've only fired up the 372 once as I haven't been in big enough trees to justify it's shrill whistle and additional power/weight. It's a keeper.

Thank you again Terry!!!!! 
ps: Is there a Wicked work saws T-shirt, like the ones that Randy has? I'd buy one.


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## MustangMike (Mar 31, 2015)

Glad to hear you got it fixed, now you can enjoy it!!! Did U get it ported while it was there???


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## MountainHigh (Apr 1, 2015)

Locust Cutter said:


> Follow-up:
> It was pointed out by one f te posters on here that I never said anything about getting the saw fixed. I ended up shipping it out to Terry who got with Husky and warrantied my saw. I now have a spanking new EL48 on there and the off-idle bog is gone. It idles exactly as it should (for well over 30 seconds) and actually got a bit more high end pull as well. I am ecstatic about the saw and how it performs. I also couldn't be more pleased about the interaction with Terry, even though I forgot to send the check for about a week after I said I would, (SORRY AGAIN TERRY!!!). Since I've gotten it back I've only fired up the 372 once as I haven't been in big enough trees to justify it's shrill whistle and additional power/weight. It's a keeper.
> 
> Thank you again Terry!!!!!
> ps: Is there a Wicked work saws T-shirt, like the ones that Randy has? I'd buy one.



Great news!


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## LogSawyer74 (Apr 1, 2015)

Terry fixed mine too!! He ended up putting an EL44 carb on it to finally get it right. It's been flawless ever since. Thank you Terry


----------



## SawTroll (Apr 1, 2015)

albert said:


> That says alot husqvarna's comitment to be the best doesn't it? Reallly isn't alot of them, You must be high or something, husqvarna's always the best blah blah blah, then when they f up it's the competitions fault. I would take a echo over that series of husqvarn/jonsered with out thinking twice.




That's a post that says more about the poster, than what he is posting about. No further comment!


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## Locust Cutter (Apr 5, 2015)

MustangMike said:


> Glad to hear you got it fixed, now you can enjoy it!!! Did U get it ported while it was there???


I thought about it Mike, but honestly I'm pretty happy with the saw as-is although it does have a muffler done up by Randy's Son John which makes a difference. It will likely be ported someday when I get bored with it's current level, but I'm actually very satisfied with it. Hell I'm over the moon just to have it running correctly and dependably. 7 tanks since Terry and it's been flawless.


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## MustangMike (Apr 6, 2015)

Great, I'm glad they got it worked out for you. Enjoy it!


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## Junkfxr (Jul 23, 2015)

Here I go again. Hot or cold, doesn't matter. I finally got the cold hesitation problem fixed by having the carb replaced with an EL 44. Well, mostly fixed. Still has a slight hesitation in cold weather but it's tolerable. About a month ago, I was sawing in high 80 degree temperatures and stopped to refuel. After finally getting it restarted, it took a couple of minutes to smooth out and run right but ran fine the rest of the day. Two weeks ago I was using it on a big tree removal and stopped to refuel before running out. No matter what, it wouldn't restart. It would start but not run long enough to get my hand to the throttle. This went on for about 5 minutes before I threw it back in the truck and picked up the 346. It wouldn't even pop. The thermometer on the truck said it was 97 degrees. Luckily I was only 15 minutes from home so I went back and got some dreamsicles. No problems the rest of the day. Finally dug the Husky's out this morning and they started and ran fine at 72 degrees. They don't seem to like cold or hot ambient temperatures. My dreamsicles just don't seem to care. I guess maybe I can still use the Husky's around the house where there are some dependable saws close by but I'm sure not taking them out on a job site anymore. I keep hearing to let them cool back down before trying to restart them because they're heat soaked. Time is money on a job site, no time to let a tempermental saw have it's way.


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## SierraWoodsman (Jul 23, 2015)

I have a 562 also in early model with an EL 44 carburetor. I also had restart issue with it on a very hot day. It was in the high 90s. (I hate cutting when it's that hot outside). otherwise the saw has been flawless! I never experienced the hesitation issue at all with my 562. it only happened the one time. I blamed myself not to saw


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Chris-PA (Jul 23, 2015)

Sounds like the vapor lock issue of the recent thread, and that I deal with on many of my other saws.


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## Junkfxr (Jul 23, 2015)

You don't happen to have a link to the vapor lock thread do you?


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## LegDeLimber (Jul 23, 2015)

It's probably this thread for the vapor locking.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husky-562-vapor-locking.282369/


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## SCHallenger (Jul 23, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> You don't happen to have a link to the vapor lock thread do you?



If I remember correctly, the operator choked his saw to shut it down, instead of using the ignition kill.The theory was that you were leaving a charge of fuel in the carb. It worked!


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## Junkfxr (Jul 23, 2015)

Thanks guys. I'll have to check it out and maybe try the choking idea sometime, even though it shouldn't be an issue.


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## sunfish (Jul 23, 2015)

Sell the Huskys & buy a couple more ms362s'...


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## Junkfxr (Jul 23, 2015)

Sell the Husky's and have the 660 ported so it'll pull that 42" bar better.


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## MountainHigh (Jul 23, 2015)

sunfish said:


> Sell the Huskys & buy a couple more ms362s'...


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## sunfish (Jul 23, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> Sell the Husky's and have the 660 ported so it'll pull that 42" bar better.


660s' need porting, don't ya know...


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## mbrick (Jul 23, 2015)

sunfish said:


> Sell the Huskys & buy a couple more ms362s'...


I'll gladly deal with a bogging 562 from someone who switches to a 660...


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## sunfish (Jul 23, 2015)

There not a Stihl saw made I'd trade a 562xp fer!!!


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## Mastermind (Jul 23, 2015)

Since we switched to Yamalube 2R, Jon's 562XP has been flawless. I've put several gallons thru it in the last couple of months. Great saw.


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## Junkfxr (Jul 23, 2015)

sunfish said:


> There not a Stihl saw made I'd trade a 562xp fer!!!


You should come and deal with this POS of mine for a while then. You might change your mind. Only took a year and two saws to get it fixed the first time. I'm just tired of fighting it. It had became my "go to" saw until this last episode. When a piece of equipment starts becoming unreliable on the job, it's time for it to go. Customers don't like to pay you while working on your equipment.


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## zogger (Jul 23, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> Since we switched to Yamalube 2R, Jon's 562XP has been flawless. I've put several gallons thru it in the last couple of months. Great saw.



Must of missed that in one of the threads. No more belray? I still have an unopened can of belray, I switched to lucas air cooled at 1/2 the price, around that anyway.. I'll try the yamagoo if it is significantly better than anything else.


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## sunfish (Jul 23, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> You should come and deal with this POS of mine for a while then. You might change your mind. Only took a year and two saws to get it fixed the first time. I'm just tired of fighting it. It had became my "go to" saw until this last episode. When a piece of equipment starts becoming unreliable on the job, it's time for it to go. Customers don't like to pay you while working on your equipment.


Like I said, trade it fer a 362...


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## Mastermind (Jul 23, 2015)

zogger said:


> Must of missed that in one of the threads. No more belray? I still have an unopened can of belray, I switched to lucas air cooled at 1/2 the price, around that anyway.. I'll try the yamagoo if it is significantly better than anything else.



The Lucas is good oil. Stick with it.


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## sunfish (Jul 23, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> The Lucas is good oil. Stick with it.


I've been using Lucas for 4 years, seems like good stuff.


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## weedkilla (Jul 23, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> Since we switched to Yamalube 2R, Jon's 562XP has been flawless. I've put several gallons thru it in the last couple of months. Great saw.


Same result with my t540. 
My 562 doesn't seem to care what fuel goes in it, and I haven't had the 550 long enough to really tell.


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## Junkfxr (Jul 23, 2015)

weedkilla said:


> Same result with my t540.
> My 562 doesn't seem to care what fuel goes in it, and I haven't had the 550 long enough to really tell.


I have a friend that works for a tree service and has / had a 550 and fought hot start issues for over a year. The dealer kept telling him to try all sorts of stuff. Chanting incantations, doing the Hokie Pokie dance, all sorts of stupid stuff other than just pick it up and go. Last week he stopped at the Stihl dealer and came out with a 261. He pulled the 550 out of the toolbox on the chip truck and threw it in the back on the chips and dumped it at the landfill with the chips. I hope you have better luck with yours.


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## weedkilla (Jul 23, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> I have a friend that works for a tree service and has / had a 550 and fought hot start issues for over a year. The dealer kept telling him to try all sorts of stuff. Chanting incantations, doing the Hokie Pokie dance, all sorts of stupid stuff other than just pick it up and go. Last week he stopped at the Stihl dealer and came out with a 261. He pulled the 550 out of the toolbox on the chip truck and threw it in the back on the chips and dumped it at the landfill with the chips. I hope you have better luck with yours.


Haha! I'd be shocked if a small engine made me go to those lengths - but each to their own. 
Now I'll just finish my lunch and go start that 550. Not sure that I'll be able to test hot starts as the wind is straight off Antarctica today and it'd freeze the nuts off a brass monkey.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 23, 2015)

weedkilla said:


> Haha! I'd be shocked if a small engine made me go to those lengths - but each to their own.
> Now I'll just finish my lunch and go start that 550. Not sure that I'll be able to test hot starts as the wind is straight off Antarctica today and it'd freeze the nuts off a brass monkey.


That 550 started on 3 pulls when it left here[emoji1]


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## weedkilla (Jul 23, 2015)

KenJax Tree said:


> That 550 started on 3 pulls when it left here[emoji1]


The cylinder fell off it last night in the shed. 
It's harder to pull over now.


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## weedkilla (Jul 23, 2015)




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## KenJax Tree (Jul 23, 2015)

weedkilla said:


> The cylinder fell off it last night in the shed.
> It's harder to pull over now.


The cylinder fell off?[emoji53]


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## weedkilla (Jul 23, 2015)

KenJax Tree said:


> The cylinder fell off?[emoji53]


Yep. Damndest thing. One minute I'm checking squish, next minute the cylinder just fell off.
That's when I started swearing about how much I hate cutting gaskets and how much I miss my lathe.


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 23, 2015)

Lol...ok gotcha....its better now....i thought it blew up[emoji28]


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## weedkilla (Jul 23, 2015)

KenJax Tree said:


> Lol...ok gotcha....its better now....i thought it blew up[emoji28]


Yeah, apparently I need to use those smiley things to make the translation from Australian into 'merikan legible.


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## Hedgerow (Jul 23, 2015)

Junkfxr said:


> I have a friend that works for a tree service and has / had a 550 and fought hot start issues for over a year. The dealer kept telling him to try all sorts of stuff. Chanting incantations, doing the Hokie Pokie dance, all sorts of stupid stuff other than just pick it up and go. Last week he stopped at the Stihl dealer and came out with a 261. He pulled the 550 out of the toolbox on the chip truck and threw it in the back on the chips and dumped it at the landfill with the chips. I hope you have better luck with yours.


You have a friend eh??

All I have is over 200 tanks and counting on a 562...
Still runnin..
And I can manage to get it started with the old, un-dependable carb...
It's a fantastic machine..

You should trade yours for a 362..
Enjoy...
Lol.


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## mbrick (Jul 23, 2015)

Hedgerow said:


> You have a friend eh??
> All I have is over 200 tanks and counting on a 562...


Side questions: 200 tanks, wow. Did you need a top end rebuild in there? What kind of maintenance or parts otherwise?


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## Hedgerow (Jul 23, 2015)

40:1 oil, sharp chains, 2 years use, and no re-builds..

Suppose it could blow up any minute I guess...

But damn...
What a saw.


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## tlandrum (Jul 23, 2015)

not to mention the top end on hedgerows saw was ported before it ever saw the first tank of fuel.


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## weedkilla (Jul 23, 2015)

tlandrum said:


> not to mention the top end on hedgerows saw was ported before it ever saw the first tank of fuel.


G'day Terry!

My 562 had less than 20 tanks of fuel before you sent me a ported top end, dunno how many tanks has been through it since, but I've used 25' of chain. Still feels as fresh as the day it was bolted back together.


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## sunfish (Jul 24, 2015)

Hedgerow said:


> You have a friend eh??
> 
> All I have is over 200 tanks and counting on a 562...
> Still runnin..
> ...


Matt, I guess you didn't get the memo. That saw is a piece a chit & should be thrown in the landfill...

You should trade yours for a 362..


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## Junkfxr (Jul 24, 2015)

Nope, if it's running like you want it to, run the snot out of it. When they start causing you more headache and money than they're worth, then throw the junk heap away.


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## Hedgerow (Jul 24, 2015)

tlandrum said:


> not to mention the top end on hedgerows saw was ported before it ever saw the first tank of fuel.


And it eats that no good, thin Lucas oil.
Lol..


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## Mastermind (Jul 24, 2015)

Hedgerow said:


> And it eats that no good, thin Lucas oil.
> Lol..



All the A/T and M/T saws seem to like the thinner oils. I use Yamalube 2R because it's purple. I like purple oil.


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## zogger (Jul 24, 2015)

Mastermind said:


> All the A/T and M/T saws seem to like the thinner oils. I use Yamalube 2R because it's purple. I like purple oil.



Pretty soon they will have optical sensors and not run at all except with the approved factory oil or canned premix..and it will data record everything so the dealer can go AH HAH! and deny warranty claims...just sayin...


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## CristiRo (Mar 18, 2017)

Hello guys!
Wich is the best fix for an EL47 that dies when hitting the trigger? 
I do not have a off idle problem, just when hitting the trigger it dies. 
Reducing the pop-off pressure will help? 
Or i need to make larger holes in the throtle plate?


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## ash man (Mar 18, 2017)

El-48 carb did the trick for my 2260


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## CristiRo (Mar 18, 2017)

ash man said:


> El-48 carb did the trick for my 2260



Thanks!
Just spoke to a local dealer and he said to me that they only have for order the EL44 carb.
I'm looking for a fix, for this EL47 for now...
I'm not thinking for a carb swap right now, but i'll take this in consideration.
Anybody knows what carb is on the 2017 562xp?


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## DND 9000 (Mar 19, 2017)

Current carb on the 562xp is the (ZAMA 140055A), introduced from serial no.: 20160800193


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## CristiRo (Mar 19, 2017)

Thanks!
Rotating the butterfly could help resolve that shut off when hitting the trigger while idling?

Just to show the issue I have, after idling a bit:


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## Little Al (Mar 19, 2017)

SawTroll said:


> Well, I haven't been able to run it much, because of my health issues....



Well Troll it can be any make if it's not running it will not have idling /acceleration problems


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## CristiRo (Mar 19, 2017)

So, I took of the carb and this is the butterfly.
What hole should I make bigger?


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