# Husqvarna 266se



## subhunter (Dec 3, 2010)

Well I scored a free 266se over the thanksgiving holiday. It didnt need much, top av mounts, fuel line and chain adjuster bolt and other than a goo cleaning it was in decent shape. 
My wifes uncle gave it to me . He said he got tired of fooling with it after he couldnt keep the chain from tightening up on him. I looked at it and to me it looked as the bolt was broken and it should be a cheap fix. He didnt care so now I have it. 

Any way Today I got the parts in and put the new adjuster on, slap a brand new carlton timber champ bar and rsc chain thinking it was ready to go. Well I was wrong. The chain tightened itself up to the point that it stalled the saw out. I loosened it back and tried to spin the chain by hand and again it tightened up before it made a full turn. NOW I AM STUMPED!!!
The only thing I noticed that looked different to me was the bar seemed to long. The tail of the bar seems to be touching the clutch drum binding it up some. Other than that I cant figure this out. Any help? Or do I need more than 72DL on this saw? 
I know that the rim is right I pulled the clutch to make sure.


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## 8433jeff (Dec 3, 2010)

subhunter said:


> Well I scored a free 266se over the thanksgiving holiday. It didnt need much, top av mounts, fuel line and chain adjuster bolt and other than a goo cleaning it was in decent shape.
> My wifes uncle gave it to me . He said he got tired of fooling with it after he couldnt keep the chain from tightening up on him. I looked at it and to me it looked as the bolt was broken and it should be a cheap fix. He didnt care so now I have it.
> 
> Any way Today I got the parts in and put the new adjuster on, slap a brand new carlton timber champ bar and rsc chain thinking it was ready to go. Well I was wrong. The chain tightened itself up to the point that it stalled the saw out. I loosened it back and tried to spin the chain by hand and again it tightened up before it made a full turn. NOW I AM STUMPED!!!
> ...



Take the chain and sprocket off and see if the crank is bent. Could have happened, put away hot and chain extra tight, but other than a fit up issue (.325 vs 3/8) IDK. Right sprocket, bar, bar mount? I know you checked, just asking. Any slop in rim drive/ excessive wear on sprocket?


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## subhunter (Dec 3, 2010)

I never thought of a bent crank. The clutch and drum both looked brand new on the saw. The rim is brand new and it is 3/8. What seems strange to me is that if you tighten the chain up a bit past where you would want it, leave the clutch cover off the chain spins freely. Put the cover on it is just too tight. Maybe the brake or clutch could be mis matched? I was really wanting to use this saw on monday umpkin2:


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 3, 2010)

I would think if crank was bent that bad it would be shaking and vibrating
all to hell......0 and back





TT


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## Stumpys Customs (Dec 3, 2010)

If you are moveing the chain by hand you're not turning the crank. You are just turning the clutch bell.


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## subhunter (Dec 3, 2010)

So not to sound too ignorant but How do I tell if the crank is bent? To me it looks good.


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## subhunter (Dec 3, 2010)

Trigger-Time said:


> I would think if crank was bent that bad it would be shaking and vibrating
> all to hell......0 and back
> 
> 
> ...



Right with no B&C it runs nice. 

stumpyshusky If you are moveing the chain by hand you're not turning the crank. You are just turning the clutch bell. 

I also can turn the flywheel and it spins the chain. Is that normal?


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## 8433jeff (Dec 3, 2010)

No, thats a clutch problem. How do the spring (springs?) look? If you turn the flywheel, the center of the crank should stay in the center, not wobble around. But thats a long shot now, focus on clutch. And the bearing is OK?


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## andrethegiant70 (Dec 3, 2010)

Sometimes bars sprockets fail instead of the rails wearing out. It happens occasionally that the bar sprocket gets worn in such a way that there is too much clearance between the sprocket teeth and the bar rails. Once the chain is under load, the drivers get yanked into the space between the teeth and the rails, binding the saw. It is common for this to occur only under load. Once you unbind it, and there is no pressure on the chain, it will ride up on the drivers as it does normally, so it's hard to detect while you just spinning the chain by hand.

Go out, get it all nice and jammed up.... now inspect where the drivers are riding at the bar sprocket.

BTW, those are excellent saws and you're going love the power. Good score.


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## 8433jeff (Dec 3, 2010)

andrethegiant70 said:


> Sometimes bars sprockets fail instead of the rails wearing out. It happens occasionally that the bar sprocket gets worn in such a way that there is too much clearance between the sprocket teeth and the bar rails. Once the chain is under load, the drivers get yanked into the space between the teeth and the rails, binding the saw. It is common for this to occur only under load. Once you unbind it, and there is no pressure on the chain, it will ride up on the drivers as it does normally, so it's hard to detect while you just spinning the chain by hand.
> 
> Go out, get it all nice and jammed up.... now inspect where the drivers are riding at the bar sprocket.



He said it was a new bar, and the right pitch, and I said check them. I assume hes done so...


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## spike60 (Dec 3, 2010)

Clutch or bearing issue a possibility. Or......Wrong bar, kink in chain, burred drive links from thrown chain, worn sprocket, bad bar tip sprocket. It's there.....keep looking!


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## andrethegiant70 (Dec 3, 2010)

Chit, so he did. Never mind.


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## subhunter (Dec 3, 2010)

Well to my untrained eye the spring looks OK. the bearing is good. The part # on the drum does not match the 2 in my IPL. I wonder if that matters? When i had the chain tight the tail of the bar was still at least a 1/4" in behind the drum making the drum very close to the bar. I was wondering if that may be it?
Some pix


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## subhunter (Dec 3, 2010)

spike60 said:


> Clutch or bearing issue a possibility. Or......Wrong bar, kink in chain, burred drive links from thrown chain, worn sprocket, bad bar tip sprocket. It's there.....keep looking!



Right I am! :biggrinbounce2: The bar in new and the chain is new also though. Just got them both today! New rim sprocket also Its got me stumped....


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## spike60 (Dec 3, 2010)

Wow, we got ourselves what the Car Talk guys call a "puzzler". Rim looks good, but the drum shows some wear from running too long with a worn sprocket. If it has a lot of use on it, the ID of that drum can be worn and egged out. 

I still wonder if the bar is correct since you mentioned that the tail is in contact with the drum. 

How does the little nylon bushing that keeps the chain tensioner bolt in place look? Is it where it's supposed to be, in the groove in the tensioner bolt. And is the bolt straight? 

As far as the bent crank is concerned, you can check that by pulling over the saw and looking at the crank end to see if it wobbles.


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## subhunter (Dec 3, 2010)

Well I think the drum could have something to do with it. The rim has quite a bit of play when installed. It is the correct drum though as the ipl I have is for newer and the is a 1983 model. Found one on bai;eys matching the # on mine. the bar adjuster is new and the nylon square{never seen one til today} is at the far end where threads stop.

I was questioning the bar though myself. I got it from baileys, one of the el cheapo calton bars. Same one I run on my husq365 and makita. I am new to the out board clutches as the only saw that has one prior to now was my 350, which I have never had it off :yoyo:


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## teatersroad (Dec 3, 2010)

subhunter said:


> Right I am! :biggrinbounce2: The bar in new and the chain is new also though. Just got them both today! New rim sprocket also Its got me stumped....



For what it's worth, looks like the chain has spent a fair amount of time riding on the spline and not in the rim sprocket.


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## teatersroad (Dec 3, 2010)

this was an edit, now a re-post so it'll catch:


looks like the spline is hammered. Does the rim sprocket move freely over the length of the spline? If not, it could be the rim sprocket is being pushed into the oil pump and binding up the works there. Putting the clutch cover on may be enough to push it into the bind.


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## subhunter (Dec 3, 2010)

Thanks TR. I think that the spline on the drum is shot.The chain would turn by hand,to a point but try to push the chain off the top of the bar as it exits the clutch cover. I am going to be ordering a new drum so I hope that will solve the problem....

Thanks for the help guys.


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## Stumpys Customs (Dec 3, 2010)

Is the chain break working properly. It may be putting enough tension on the drum once the cover is snugged up. Just a thought.


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 4, 2010)

subhunter said:


> Thanks TR. I think that the spline on the drum is shot.The chain would turn by hand,to a point but try to push the chain off the top of the bar as it exits the clutch cover. I am going to be ordering a new drum so I hope that will solve the problem....
> 
> Thanks for the help guys.



If you mean mail order.

I would have to go to my local dealer, if you have one around.

*Am not ragging on you at all*, but if we don't support our dealers.
Even more so in small towns we will one day wonder where they all went.
Just like wal-mart has run many small town bussiness out. So will
the internet with online sales.

Again this is not ragging on OP, even though it may seem that way.
I just give him a gold Nova


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## 272super (Dec 4, 2010)

Watch what happens from underneath(where you can see), when you tighten the clutch cover. Since that is when the bar has to tighten against the case, look to see what that does to the alignment of chain,drum and rim as you tighten it. Probably a bad drum as already stated. Also check that the clutch cover goes on flush and there is no area that does not fully merge with case. 

You will like that saw, let us know how it turns out.


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## Cantdog (Dec 4, 2010)

Yep...Definately time for a new rim AND clutch drum and bearing!! Pay close attention when you reassemble and be very certain that you are not getting any interference from your brake band. Also take a close look at the end of your crank when you have it all apart. Pull the saw over without the spark plug (but make sure the plug wire is grounded or the ign. switch is off) while watching the end of the crank. It should not wobble any if it does this will cause the drum to run out of round and encounter the brake band as well.

My hunch is the rim/spline/drum is toast and worn so out of round itself that you are hanging a driver up on tht top or edge of a spline causing a sudden "to short chain" problem. (especially with a brand new chain on a beat rim) Just my morning thoughts without quite enough coffee yet!! Good luck!!


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## spike60 (Dec 4, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> Yep...Definately time for a new rim AND clutch drum and bearing!! Pay close attention when you reassemble and be very certain that you are not getting any interference from your brake band. Also take a close look at the end of your crank when you have it all apart. Pull the saw over without the spark plug (but make sure the plug wire is grounded or the ign. switch is off) while watching the end of the crank. It should not wobble any if it does this will cause the drum to run out of round and encounter the brake band as well.
> 
> My hunch is the rim/spline/drum is toast and worn so out of round itself that you are hanging a driver up on tht top or edge of a spline causing a sudden "to short chain" problem. (especially with a brand new chain on a beat rim) Just my morning thoughts without quite enough coffee yet!! Good luck!!




I agree! 

And, have yourself another cup of coffee.


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## Cantdog (Dec 4, 2010)

spike60 said:


> I agree!
> 
> And, have yourself another cup of coffee.




LOLOL!!!! Already there Bob!!


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## teatersroad (Dec 4, 2010)

Trigger-Time said:


> If you mean mail order.
> 
> I would have to go to my local dealer, if you have one around.
> 
> ...



I'm down with that. I go online for some stuff, hard to beat the Carlton closeout bars at Bailey's right now, and dealers won't really mess with aftermarket (eg: Meteor). Otherwise local saw shop is my first stop for parts. 

The difference in part number on the Drum -vs- IPL is likely that the Drum is an Oregon Powermate and has Oregon's part number.


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## almondgt (Dec 4, 2010)

Your clutch is screwed. Don't change anything but the clutch. Make sure your bar is marked d009 as well. Feels good to be on here so early.:chainsawguy:


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## teatersroad (Dec 4, 2010)

almondgt said:


> Your clutch is screwed. Don't change anything but the clutch.,



maybe. crichy, you can tell the condition of the needle bearing from way up there? you're good.

by clutch, do you mean the clutch drum, the clutch. or both? yeah, noted, the drum looks shot. what fixes the problem remains to be seen


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## almondgt (Dec 4, 2010)

The clutch should not have an open hole on the end of it, it should be sealed with a small hole in it for greasing the sprocket/clutch,drum bearing. Clutch only.
:chainsawguy:


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## teatersroad (Dec 4, 2010)

almondgt said:


> The clutch should not have an open hole on the end of it, it should be sealed with a small hole in it for greasing the sprocket/clutch,drum bearing. Clutch only.
> :chainsawguy:



you just yanking chain here? I can't quite grock what you're talking about. Not saying it aint me, but, what?

The clutch looks fine to me, though I'm having a hard time gauging spring tension in the pics. Hole in the end of crank for lubing needle bearing, check. Cogs on clutch drum to drive oild pump, check. Hammered spline on drum, check

also,, looking back at pics, it sure looks like the plastic oil pump drive gear is broken. 

Not pissing here, good neighbor to the North, explain better what you mean by 'hole in the clutch' to this hack.

edit> oh, now I think I get it. You might be used to some sort of 'cap' at the clutch thread boss. Not always the case. and not the case with my 266.


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## SawTroll (Dec 4, 2010)

almondgt said:


> Your clutch is screwed. Don't change anything but the clutch. Make sure your bar is marked d009 as well. Feels good to be on here so early.:chainsawguy:



It is a Carlton bar, so I don't think it will be marked with the Oregon "large Husky" code, even if it is the right one.....


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## almondgt (Dec 4, 2010)

The clutch in question was overtightned on the se saw. Husqvarna se has the old style clutch as pictured. Newer clutch used on the later xp models is a better design with the open end clutch. Oil pump gear looks like needs replace as mentioned.

<a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg232/carsonbridge/?action=view&amp;current=clutch001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg232/carsonbridge/clutch001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


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## teatersroad (Dec 4, 2010)

almondgt said:


> Husqvarna se has the old style clutch as pictured. Newer clutch used on the later xp models is a better design with the open end clutch. Oil pump gear looks like needs replace as mentioned.
> 
> <a href="http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg232/carsonbridge/?action=view&amp;current=clutch001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg232/carsonbridge/clutch001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>



copy, nice pic. My SE has clutch as shown prior by OP, can't see how it may be a problem unless the cap is also the 'shoulder' that keeps the clutch from setting hard against the drum. I did not read back to see if drum spun freely after install.

glad you're up early on that.


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## almondgt (Dec 4, 2010)

Good morning...You are correct my good man on your comment, 'shoulder' that keeps the clutch from setting hard against the drum. If that damaged clutch is tightened the drum won't turn and could damage the oil pump gear
.:chainsawguy:


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## Dawgfan52 (Dec 4, 2010)

*pump gear*

You need a new rim and drum and pump gear. Drum kits are only $16-$20 here for the Oregon brand. I had a problem with the clutch locking to the drum on a 61 last week. The oil pump gear was worn and didn't engage the new drum correctly. The drum wouldn't go on far enough, and when the clutch was threaded on it would lock the drum. New gear, no more problem. They are plastic for a reason.

The rim sprocket does float on the drum and from your pics I could see the potential for sticking and binding the chain.

Wes


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## teatersroad (Dec 4, 2010)

almondgt said:


> Good morning...You are correct my good man on your comment, 'shoulder' that keeps the clutch from setting hard against the drum. If that damaged clutch is tightened the drum won't turn and could damage the oil pump gear
> .:chainsawguy:



well now I'm going to have to recon the nearly new to me '84 266se, 'cuz the clutch does not have that cap, but all works fine. I did not look at my drum splines, but the splines in the pic sure look like they've been used to drive chain. My thought was if the rim sprocket doesn't travel back and forth along the spline then it may bind hard against the case. Not that that jives with the chain bunching up on top of the sprocket.

he's probably out cutting wood with it already and we'll be solving his problem for the next six months.


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## teatersroad (Dec 4, 2010)

closer look at the clutch in the pic I can see that the 'cap' is broken out, not just the wrong clutch. cheers, good eye.


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 4, 2010)

teatersroad said:


> closer look at the clutch in the pic I can see that the 'cap' is broken out, not just the wrong clutch. cheers, good eye.



Know that this has come up, I had 266, 261, 272 and few other
Husky part saws and did run into some troubles with cap and
non-cap clutches and washers, try to get a few of them going.


TT


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## subhunter (Dec 4, 2010)

WELL I called around and found a drum,bearing etc for 25 bucks. It matches the old drum to the 'T'. 

I am a bit confused about what you guys are saying about the clutch???? 

Although after I did tighten the clutch up I did run into the problem of the drum locking and not turning after about 1/4 turn. So what next? 

THANKS AGAIN FOR THE REPLIES!!


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## teatersroad (Dec 4, 2010)

as almondgt pointed out, look at your clutch and look at the pic of the clutch he posted. His has a Hex cover with a pinhole oiler port, on yours the cover is broken off. That cover acts as a depth stop to keep the clutch spaced off of the drum, allowing the drum to freewheel when the clutch is not engaged. Some clutches just seat against a shoulder on the crank, not in your case. When you cinch down your clutch it binds against the drum. A problem. Also it appears your oil drive gear is broken, can't really tell. It's the plastic gear seated in the pump gear.


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## teatersroad (Dec 4, 2010)

try swap meet thread for a new clutch, good first stop


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## almondgt (Dec 4, 2010)

subhunter said:


> WELL I called around and found a drum,bearing etc for 25 bucks. It matches the old drum to the 'T'.
> 
> I am a bit confused about what you guys are saying about the clutch????
> 
> ...



Sure would like to see a picture of the mounting area of your chainsaw bar &/or provide the numbers/letters stamped on the bar to make sure you have the correct bar for your saw. Are the mounting threads inside the clutch coarse or fine?
:chainsawguy:


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## subhunter (Dec 4, 2010)

I see. So I need also a new clutch. I am kida doubting the worm is broken though as I pulled it off and it seems sound. 
after reading this last post I barely loosened the clutch and indeed it does now spin freely.















the crank is course thread


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## almondgt (Dec 4, 2010)

subhunter said:


> I see. So I need also a new clutch. I am kida doubting the worm is broken though as I pulled it off and it seems sound.
> after reading this last post I barely loosened the clutch and indeed it does now spin freely.



Worm wheel needs to be square on the 4 shoulders that contact the clutch drum. If not, the wheel could slip and no oil to the bar as a result. Nice pic by the way but need to see the end with the mounting holes of the bar that is closest to the clutch once mounted.:rockn:


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## almondgt (Dec 4, 2010)

subhunter said:


> I see. So I need also a new clutch. I am kida doubting the worm is broken though as I pulled it off and it seems sound.
> after reading this last post I barely loosened the clutch and indeed it does now spin freely.
> 
> 
> ...



Excuse my mixed up wording. Please add a picture of the mounting holes in the carlton bar.:chainsawguy:


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## subhunter (Dec 4, 2010)




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## almondgt (Dec 4, 2010)

subhunter said:


>



Bar mount looks great. Blow out the small oiler holes on the bar so oil flows easily. :chainsawguy:


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## huskydude (Dec 4, 2010)

the plastic chain guide looks well worn, might want to change it


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## subhunter (Dec 4, 2010)

Well it seems that the course thread clutches are very rare, as in they dont make them or aftermarket ones from what I can tell. 
Would this one work though ??? 

http://store.chainsawr.com/products...clutch-sprocket-assembly-type-2-coarse-thread
seems lke it would


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## Cantdog (Dec 4, 2010)

subhunter said:


> Well it seems that the course thread clutches are very rare, as in they dont make them or aftermarket ones from what I can tell.
> Would this one work though ???
> 
> http://store.chainsawr.com/products...clutch-sprocket-assembly-type-2-coarse-thread
> seems lke it would



Yes it will, but do yourself a favor and buy a new rim to go with it. You have a new chain and bar and you should have a brand new rim to go with them so it's ALL new and the worn part is not prematurely wearing out the rest of the new stuff.


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## subhunter (Dec 10, 2010)

Got the clutch and another drum today. The chain problem seems to be fixed.
Now my new question/problem is when I had it running today trying to tune it quite a bit of oil was being forced out of the muffler, right where the two halves join together. ALSO after letting it run a while I revved it up some and then it never would slow down. No matter how far you adjust the idle screw it still kept the chain turning. I am guessing an air leak for the racing but before it seemed to run ok and earlier today it did also. guess I need to do a vacuum test now.

What would make the oil run out the muffler though? I run 40:1 and the other saws seem to like it.

THANKS FOR PICKING UP ON MY CLUTCH ISSUE BECAUSE I NEVER WOULD HAVE...:hmm3grin2orange:


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## SawTroll (Dec 10, 2010)

Cantdog said:


> Yes it will, but do yourself a favor and buy a new rim to go with it. You have a new chain and bar and you should have a brand new rim to go with them so it's ALL new and the worn part is not prematurely wearing out the rest of the new stuff.



Yes!


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## almondgt (Dec 10, 2010)

subhunter said:


> Got the clutch and another drum today. The chain problem seems to be fixed.
> Now my new question/problem is when I had it running today trying to tune it quite a bit of oil was being forced out of the muffler, right where the two halves join together. ALSO after letting it run a while I revved it up some and then it never would slow down. No matter how far you adjust the idle screw it still kept the chain turning. I am guessing an air leak for the racing but before it seemed to run ok and earlier today it did also. guess I need to do a vacuum test now.
> 
> What would make the oil run out the muffler though? I run 40:1 and the other saws seem to like it.
> ...




Good place to start is the carb. Have you removed the carb for a thorough cleaning? Carb can create a lot of issues that could mimic air leaks. Carb may need a rebuild kit. Check for stiffness in the carb gaskets. Hopefully you haven't worked the H and L screws to much as they may start to leak air if too loose in the carb body. You'll be looking for a carb next if not careful. Excess oil may be due to carb as well.
:chainsawguy:


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## SawTroll (Dec 10, 2010)

subhunter said:


> Got the clutch and another drum today. The chain problem seems to be fixed.
> Now my new question/problem is when I had it running today trying to tune it quite a bit of oil was being forced out of the muffler, right where the two halves join together. ALSO after letting it run a while I revved it up some and then it never would slow down. No matter how far you adjust the idle screw it still kept the chain turning. I am guessing an air leak for the racing but before it seemed to run ok and earlier today it did also. guess I need to do a vacuum test now.
> 
> What would make the oil run out the muffler though? I run 40:1 and the other saws seem to like it.
> ...




I wouldn't want to run 40:1, but that is not the reason for the oil coming out of the muffler - do you know if it is bar oil?

Regardless what other problems are present, there probably is an air leak somewhere, and maybe a leak from the oil tank into the cylinder.


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## almondgt (Dec 10, 2010)

Beg to differ troll, 40:1 is a good mix for the old saws. The vintage saws have wear to the piston/cylinder and the heavier mix will keep that saw running a lot longer than 50:1 mix will. No disrespect intended. Looking back at your picture of the bar I notice now that you are missing the bolt that retains the right lower front antivibe mount and the plastic or aluminum chain catch is missing as well.
:chainsawguy:


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## SawTroll (Dec 10, 2010)

almondgt said:


> Beg to differ troll, 40:1 is a good mix for the old saws. The vintage saws have wear to the piston/cylinder and the heavier mix will keep that saw running a lot longer than 50:1 mix will. No disrespect intended. Looking back at your picture of the bar I notice now that you are missing the bolt that retains the right lower front antivibe mount and the plastic or aluminum chain catch is missing as well.
> :chainsawguy:



More oil in the gas will also make the saws run leaner at the same carb settings - but do as you want to!


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## almondgt (Dec 10, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> More oil in the gas will also make the saws run leaner at the same carb settings - but do as you want to!


 
I prefer 40:1 mix. I set the H and L screws on my carbs and don't have any issues with leaning the system out. Pretty sure owners manual for the old Husky 266 recommended 40:1 mix as well. Simple problem, simple solution. 
:chainsawguy:


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## SawTroll (Dec 10, 2010)

almondgt said:


> I prefer 40:1 mix. I set the H and L screws on my carbs and don't have any issues with leaning the system out. Pretty sure owners manual for the old Husky 266 recommended 40:1 mix as well. Simple problem, simple solution.
> :chainsawguy:



Older statements about oil to fuel ratio are irrelevant, because the oils have improved a lot!


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## almondgt (Dec 10, 2010)

SawTroll said:


> Older statements about oil to fuel ratio are irrelevant, because the oils have improved a lot!



You're a hard sell troll. Gotta do what makes you feel good!
:chainsawguy:


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## Cantdog (Dec 11, 2010)

*"Free Saw!!"*

I would clean the carb thoughly and install a new kit. Oil coming from the muffler is generally caused by an extreamly rich condition. Probably your needle valve is sticking open a bit and supplying to much fuel. The # is RK-23HS for the kit but one thing to remember...you may not be able to use the gasket that goes between the carb and the isolation block that is supplied. It's outside area may not be large enough to cover the impulse corridor and you will have an air leak plus your carb and fuel pump won't function properly. Either reuse the old one if it's in good shape or go to a Husky/Jonsered dealer and get the correct one, or simply use the supplied one as a pattern and make a new one but with more outside area around the impulse corridor. You will see what I mean. It may work fine as is but something to be aware of. Also make sure your fuel line is not touching the throttle linkage on the right hand side and causing the linkage to hang up and giving you a high idle situation. 
If none of this works you may have a leaking crank seal. In all the posts and pics in this thread I haven't seen or heard mentioned the dust/debris shield that goes between the clutch drum and oil pump housing. If this saw has been run without this, dust, dirt and chips have been flying around your oil pump and your crank seal is right in the oil pump housing and has probably worn itself out. These are about the easiest crank seals to replace as you can remove the oil pump housing and do the seal right out on the bench. If you have trouble reinstalling the housing with the new seal without the seal trying to flip itself inside out when it catches on the lip on the crank, take your clutch bearing and very carefully slip it into the seal out on the bench. Then reinstall the housing. This will expand the seal and the seal will ride the bearing to the lip and slide right onto the shaft. Also you will find a large O-ring that seals the housing to the case. Make sure to replace that as well because that is another possible place for an air/vac leak to occur on these saws. Don't forget to get a new dust shield if you in fact don't have one.

Good luck with your "free" saw LOLOL!!!! (not laughing at you, just with you!! I have a bunch of these "free" saws!!) But seriously....once you get this all straightened out you will have a real good saw.


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## willysmn (Dec 11, 2010)

*266se free*

Hi there Cant Dog. How are you doing way up there?
this has been a very educational discussion for me, although my 266s run well. 
They seem to be just right for multipurpose work, with smaller trees.
willysmn in NM


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## Cantdog (Dec 12, 2010)

*"Hey there yourself"*

How are things in the land of mountains and desert?? Things are good (normal) here if you like 9 hrs. of daylight and temps in the teens!! But things will be looking up soon, days will begin to get a bit longer and the temps will drop to zero and beyond........good for working in the woods when the wet/muddy places become hard as concrete and logs move easy and stay clean in the snow.

I have never had a 266 but have all the saws around them in that family. As you said great all round saws. Very well designed and easy to work on too. I was using the 61/268XP in my sig yesterday and just adore that saw. I was taking down a 28" standing dead, very twisted cherry for firewood. The cherry we have here is very hard when allowed to dry and weather for a few yrs still standing. It has a 20" bar and double dawgs. Man you can just bury the bar and pivot right around the butt like a can opener. It is very hard to slow it down at all. It is capable of working 99% of the trees that grow around here. It is a bit heavy for limbing but thats where one of my trusty 49SPs shine!!


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## subhunter (Dec 12, 2010)

Cantdog, I have not had the time to get back around that saw since my last post. 
I can tell you that the dust sheild is in place and was not damaged in any way. Also on this model the throttle linkage is oppisite the fuel line and that isnt a problem. 
I am trying to figure out how to vacuum test this saw as it has no impulse line??
Can I use an old compression testers hose and screw it into the plug and hook the vac pump to it that way?

Also it very well could be the carb as the rest of this saw was so crummy and caked up it looked as if it had not EVER been taken apart and cleaned or serviced. 
Hopefully I can get around to taking a peek at the crank seals later this week but who knows. Thanks again for the replies!


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## willysmn (Dec 12, 2010)

*266SE free*

Things are very dry here, ie no snow due to La Nina weather pattern. Going to be seriouly bad fire danger and water shortages if it does not let up, which it may not.
You have some interesting hardwood/firewood trees up there, none like that in this country. In AZ, the Mesquite is big enough to cut as firewood and very hard wood dry, so break,not cut. 
SO I should look into a 49sp maybe. I recall eading some cutting results where you had those screaming. A small Homelite was second, I do have two of those. 
A good winter to you. The short days up north might get me. I'd need a well lighted, warm shop.



Cantdog said:


> How are things in the land of mountains and desert?? Things are good (normal) here if you like 9 hrs. of daylight and temps in the teens!! But things will be looking up soon, days will begin to get a bit longer and the temps will drop to zero and beyond........good for working in the woods when the wet/muddy places become hard as concrete and logs move easy and stay clean in the snow.
> 
> I have never had a 266 but have all the saws around them in that family. As you said great all round saws. Very well designed and easy to work on too. I was using the 61/268XP in my sig yesterday and just adore that saw. I was taking down a 28" standing dead, very twisted cherry for firewood. The cherry we have here is very hard when allowed to dry and weather for a few yrs still standing. It has a 20" bar and double dawgs. Man you can just bury the bar and pivot right around the butt like a can opener. It is very hard to slow it down at all. It is capable of working 99% of the trees that grow around here. It is a bit heavy for limbing but thats where one of my trusty 49SPs shine!!


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## Cantdog (Dec 12, 2010)

subhunter said:


> Cantdog, I have not had the time to get back around that saw since my last post.
> I can tell you that the dust sheild is in place and was not damaged in any way. Also on this model the throttle linkage is oppisite the fuel line and that isnt a problem.
> I am trying to figure out how to vacuum test this saw as it has no impulse line??
> Can I use an old compression testers hose and screw it into the plug and hook the vac pump to it that way?
> ...




I'd do the carb before I got carried away with seals. Another thing, that O-ring I mentioned could be leaking and allowing bar oil into the crankcase behind the seal if your oil pump has problems (leaks). It can also be a great place for an air leak. But the carb would be my guess. Seals go bad but in my experience carbs need way more attention than seals. When you do the carb make sure you pay close attention to the filter screen inside the carb. It is right under the top cover and is right near where the fuel enters the carb. It sits down in a hole about 1/4" in dia. These are the final fuel filter and get overlooked alot. There will be a new one in the kit.

You're right about the linkage. I mix and match Jred carbs on some of these saws and they have quite a choke/high idle linkage on the right hand side, which has given me throttle problems with the fuel line before.

Good your dust shield is/was in place..I've gotten saws that were missing these. Quite important...


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## woodyman (Dec 13, 2010)

Hope everything works out on your 266.I ran one for many years till my buds 359 beat it.





Never did have dogs on it or my 44 rancher.


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## willysmn (Dec 13, 2010)

*266se free*

Nice 266.
Put a dose of nitro in the tank to beat the 359. but not much.


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## subhunter (Dec 21, 2010)

Today I got some spare time to rebuild the carb and look at the oil pump. The O ring that ( I assume) seals the pump housing was kinda iffy so I called around and cant find one at any of the local dealers or auto parts stores. I also looked at the seal and to my untrained eye it looked to be OK but I could be wrong on that. 

The problem is that I got it running again and it seemed to run better after the carb rebuild but it still is leaking oil out of the muffler. The carb had some rusty colored gummy stuff in it and on the L needle. It didn't race wildly like before today until it got nice and warm and then it did race for a bit but settled back down. I am guessing it does have an air leak most likely through the oil tank and maybe the clutch side seal also. 

*My big question is how will I go about doing a vacuum test on a saw with no impulse line? *
THANKS AGAIN
*edit*
THe time when it did race after it was hot was after I blipped the throttle several times then it raced but settled down. BUT afterwards when I pulled it over to start it again the chain would also turn as I pulled the start cord and it was noticeably harder to pull over. It doesn't turn everytime I pull the cord though. Could this be a bearing symptom as well?


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## Cantdog (Dec 21, 2010)

If you can't find that o-ring at your local Husky dealer...google.... partstree.com you will find what you need. If it's iffy change it out. Might as well get atleast one crank seal at the same time and change the clutch side seal while the pump is out to replace the o-ring.


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## subhunter (Dec 21, 2010)

Right I plan on replacing the seal at that time. BUT my biggest concern is doing a vac test to the saw before I really damage it. I cant seem to find anything that shows/ explains doing a vac test to a saw like this with no impulse line.


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## Cantdog (Dec 21, 2010)

Well you have to block off (air tight)the intake and exhaust ports and create/use some kind of fitting in one of these openings to connect to whatever you are using to develop vac/pressure. 

Don't know but in my world......I just replace all seals and other opportunities for leaks at one time. If the left side seal is leaking......how long before the right side does too? I know this flies in the face of AS thoughts but I rarely do these tests. It takes longes to test than it does to replace all the seals and gaskets in a saw motor. Not saying testing is not sometimes needed but time is money and seals are pretty cheap and when your done you know none of the seals are the problem. (if you still have a problem)


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## almondgt (Dec 21, 2010)

Replace the crank seals and oring and you shouldn't have to do a vac test as long as your crankcase gasket is in good condition. Make sure all your intake gaskets from carb to cylinder head are in good shape. Make sure your fuel line is not damaged in any way. A proper carb rebuild entails soaking the carb in carb cleaner overnight prior to reassembly.:chainsawguy:


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## subhunter (Dec 21, 2010)

OK so is the FW side seal as easy as the clutch side to replace? I am not sure of the crank case gasket but I wouldnt be shocked if it was also in need of replacing.


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## almondgt (Dec 21, 2010)

Replace crankcase gasket is not preferable but you would know what you have got if you did get in there. Unlikely there is any leakage due to corrosion of the case sides but if there is you will definately know where you stand. No more guessing. The saw is old and the crankcase gasket should be replaced if your are serious about using the saw and repairing it too last. Fair amount of work, been there done that.:chainsawguy:


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## 272super (Dec 21, 2010)

I leak test these saws quite a bit. I use inner tube rubber to block of intake and exhaust. I made block off plates because I do these saws alot,but you can use muffler and intake/carb to block off if you need to. I then take my pressure reading through spark plug hole. I took an old plug and knocked electrode out and then attached tester to that with a hose. There are plenty of ways to connect tester to spark plug hole. Also can use compression tester(quick disconnect type) half with valve removed.Make sure piston is at BDC so you can pressurize the crankcase easier. I test at 7-8 psi. This is a very easy test and essential for any 2 cycle. It eliminates so many potential problems.

I was able to get an o-ring from a hardware store by matching it up. It is thinner than most.


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## woodyman (Dec 21, 2010)

I think there was a leak test on older saws with no impulse line thread awhile back with pics.Might have been Fourpaws that did it.He did it about the same way 272super said.


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## subhunter (Dec 28, 2010)

ok I am about to pull the trigger on new seals and a few other parts. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE CONFIRM THAT THE FLYWHEEL SIDE SEAL IS SAME AS CLUTCH? I cant seem to find it in my IPL about the FW side, also how hard is it to replace the FW side seal? 
thanks


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## 272super (Dec 29, 2010)

subhunter said:


> ok I am about to pull the trigger on new seals and a few other parts. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE CONFIRM THAT THE FLYWHEEL SIDE SEAL IS SAME AS CLUTCH? I cant seem to find it in my IPL about the FW side, also how hard is it to replace the FW side seal?
> thanks



They are the same seals. Pull the flywheel. To remove seal,drill a small hole in seal,insert small screw and grab screw with pliers to remove. Probably other ways to do it but that works for me. Be careful when drilling.


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## subhunter (Dec 29, 2010)

Ok I got the seals ordered along with my other parts. My next question is how many crank case screws are there? and is there a pin (or 2)I should be looking for like on the stihl saws? 
Got it almost ready to split


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## subhunter (Dec 29, 2010)

OK I just got the jug off and it is in very nice shape. What has me confused :monkey:
is the FW side had the three screws holding a plastic piece on. It seems to me that is where my seal is on the FW side and the PTO side it is in the oil pump. (Bear with me as this is my first time replacing seals and splitting the case) How do the seals come out of the pump and the plastic triangle? 

Also I tried to go ahead and split the case with the 2 jaw puller and the piece of steel I have. It seemed as if I was putting a whole lot of pressure on the crank. Is this normal? and did I miss those pins or what??

THANKS AGAIN GUYS FOR ALL THE GUIDANCE!!! :yourock:


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## jockeydeuce (Dec 29, 2010)

subhunter said:


> OK I just got the jug off and it is in very nice shape. What has me confused :monkey:
> is the FW side had the three screws holding a plastic piece on. It seems to me that is where my seal is on the FW side and the PTO side it is in the oil pump. (Bear with me as this is my first time replacing seals and splitting the case) How do the seals come out of the pump and the plastic triangle?
> 
> Also I tried to go ahead and split the case with the 2 jaw puller and the piece of steel I have. It seemed as if I was putting a whole lot of pressure on the crank. Is this normal? and did I miss those pins or what??
> ...



If you've got the type with the plastic seal holder, that's a bonus!!! Way easier to change the seal. Just pry the triangle shaped seal holder out and the seal will drive out the back side.....Make sure you support that plastic holder well when you remove the seal so it doesn't break.

There are SEVEN screws holding the crankcase together......4 under the oil pump, 2 that also retain the inner falling spike and 1 short one at the rear by the ignition switch......A little heat with a heat gun around the bearing area helps when you're splitting the cases.....There are two short dowels, but you can't drive them out like a Stihl.


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## subhunter (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks Jockey. I guess I got all the screws out then as I had 7. I will give it another try. SO the dowels cant be driven out. Glad to know that. One last question... how do you keep the puller straight on the crank? I am having a hard time and I dont want to put the stress on the crank from an angle like it keeps wanting to do.


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## subhunter (Dec 29, 2010)

I got the case split now just waiting on parts. The bearings are smooth as silk. The last thing left to get for this saw is a new piston. The old one looks to be worn, showing no signs of machine marks and a bright scuff/streak down the exaust side. I was hoping not to have to get one as the compression was at 170 before I took it apart.


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## 272super (Dec 29, 2010)

subhunter said:


> I got the case split now just waiting on parts. The bearings are smooth as silk. The last thing left to get for this saw is a new piston. The old one looks to be worn, showing no signs of machine marks and a bright scuff/streak down the exaust side. I was hoping not to have to get one as the compression was at 170 before I took it apart.



Just curious,if the bearings are good why did you split the case? Between that and replacing the gasket there isn't much reason to split them.


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## subhunter (Dec 29, 2010)

Well it had a bad oil leak where it was losing a lot through the muffler when running. 
I wasnt sure if the gasket was bad but after I got it split I could tell it was likely bad as it was just a few small pieces left at the oil tank. This was a project saw that had been sitting in my wifes uncles barn for a while. He said he had bought it new but it hadnt been running in a year or two. Id say longer...


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## subhunter (Jan 3, 2011)

*Parts should be in today!*

So I am told the parts should be here today(minus the new piston).I have a few questions before I try to get the case put back together. 

1)Is there any special trick to getting my case back together? 
2)DO I use permatex or other in addition to the crankcase gasket?
any other tips/tricks to getting the seals in place or anything anyone can think of?
OR am I just making this too difficult by over thinking?

I have read that you can take two or three small pieces of pipe to help pull the case halves back together using the clutch. I have cut some and think it may work but some inspiration for a first timer is ALWAYS appreciated!:hmm3grin2orange:


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## almondgt (Jan 3, 2011)

subhunter said:


> So I am told the parts should be here today(minus the new piston).I have a few questions before I try to get the case put back together.
> 
> 1)Is there any special trick to getting my case back together?
> 2)DO I use permatex or other in addition to the crankcase gasket?
> ...


 
First off, I think you made the right choice to split the crankcase. Clean the crankcase halves carefully/spotlessly. Assuming both your bearings are on the crankshaft follow this: Do one side at a time. Keep the crankshaft cold in the garage, warm up the crankcase halves near a wood stove. Warm the halves the warmest your hands can handle. Crankshaft/bearing should drop in easily if done correctly. Crankcase gasket is installed dry, no adhesives. Spread 2 stroke oil lightly inside the crankcase halves and outside of the bearings and be careful not to over do it so no oil gets on the crankcase gasket. If the bearings are still in the crankcase then I would 2 stroke oil the friction parts to be assembled. Again warm the crankcase half and keep the crank cold. Work carefully but relatively quickly. Don't damage the crankcase gasket in any way. Make sure your crankcase mating surfaces have no damage. How does your piston fit inside your cylinder with the ring removed from the piston? Should fit like a glove with no slop or play any which way. Make sure your arrow marked on the piston top is pointing to exhaust side of cylinder when testing you piston. Do you have pictures of piston available from both sides(intake and exhaust):chainsawguy:


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## subhunter (Jan 3, 2011)

The old piston is not going to be used. It had no machine marks left and the ring end gap was out of this world wide. 

I left the crank in the fw side of the case thinking that would be easiest since the bearings were still smooth as silk. I scraped the case halves with a razor to remove the debris and old gasket and it is nice and clean.


By spread the oil on the case halves and over all the case halves but leave the gasket oil-less? kinda confused me but I see what you mean. Also should I heat the PTO side and leave the crank and the FW side cold?


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## almondgt (Jan 3, 2011)

subhunter said:


> The old piston is not going to be used. It had no machine marks left and the ring end gap was out of this world wide.
> 
> I left the crank in the fw side of the case thinking that would be easiest since the bearings were still smooth as silk. I scraped the case halves with a razor to remove the debris and old gasket and it is nice and clean.
> 
> ...


 
Sorry about the oil bit. 2 stroke oil on the crankshaft area to be installed and inside the case half hole where the bearing rests and or oil inside the bearing hole. No oil anywhere else. Keep hands clean and dry to the best of your ability. If piston/ring are so worn I can't see how you got such a high compression reading. :chainsawguy:

Also should I heat the PTO side and leave the crank and the FW side cold? YES 
As well, as long as you can get the two crankcase halves close together you can use the case screws tightened evenly to finish. Tighten evenly at all 7 locations so you don't damage threads in the case.


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## subhunter (Jan 3, 2011)

The piston fits tightly like it should in the jug it just is really worn with no machine marks at all and also some scoring on both sides. I think it has injested some saw dust at some point as the elbow the filter mounts to had a large chip,about the size of a pencil eraser, missing from it. I fixed it with JB weld. The exaust side looks way worse than it was but a new piston was still in store at this point.
I was also suprised with the compression reading after I checked the end gap and seen the piston out of the jug.


intake




exaust 




ring end gap was .069


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## almondgt (Jan 3, 2011)

subhunter said:


> The piston fits tightly like it should in the jug it just is really worn with no machine marks at all and also some scoring on both sides. I think it has injested some saw dust at some point as the elbow the filter mounts to had a large chip,about the size of a pencil eraser, missing from it. I fixed it with JB weld. The exaust side looks way worse than it was but a new piston was still in store at this point.
> I was also suprised with the compression reading after I checked the end gap and seen the piston out of the jug.
> 
> 
> ...



If the piston fit in the cylinder is as you describe I would replace the piston ring with a new ring and run it. Carefully check the cylinder for any imperfections and deal with them best you can. That way you will save on the cost of a piston for now and be able to test the quality of your work restoring the crankcase. Machine marks on the piston are not that critical as you presume they are. I would hate to put in a new piston and burn it up due to a small error in the rebuild. :chainsawguy:
Do you have the black rubber gasket between the air cleaner support and air cleaner element in place? That seal is crucial in keeping debris out of the carb system.


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## subhunter (Jan 3, 2011)

*a SMALL issue*

I got the case pulled back together. Heated half and left the other out side for a few hours and it almost fell together. I got the FW side seal installed but my problem I am having is I cant remember how the seal went into the oil pump. The seal seems too big to go in and I am not wanting to put alot of force on the seal or pump


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## Cantdog (Jan 3, 2011)

I find it easier for me to remove the pump body from the case, then remove the gear and shaft from the pump. Then install the seal, the shaft and gear and reinstall the whole thing into the case. Rember to use a new o-ring to seal the housing to the case.


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## almondgt (Jan 3, 2011)

subhunter said:


> I got the case pulled back together. Heated half and left the other out side for a few hours and it almost fell together. I got the FW side seal installed but my problem I am having is I cant remember how the seal went into the oil pump. The seal seems too big to go in and I am not wanting to put alot of force on the seal or pump



Use a flat surface with a piece of cardboard/rag on top of that surface to protect the oil pump. Find the best deep socket that matches the size of the seal for tapping the seal into place. Use the bottom or closed end of the socket for the flatest surface to tap the seal into place. Pay attention to the size of the socket once the seal becomes flush with the oil pump surface, you may need a smaller deep socket to drive the seal deeper. I always use some 2 stoke oil around the outside of the seal and some oil inside the oil pump where the seal will rest. Oil helps or not, I just do it. The seal needs to face out with the exposed rubber/spring facing into the crankcase. Tap the seal in until the seal is approximately 1/16" below the oil pump surface. Don't go in too far, don't leave the seal flush with the surface of the oil pump. Use care when you do the above mentioned. Make sure your little black rubber tube is in place in the rear of the oil pump prior to assembly in the crankcase.
:chainsawguy:


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## subhunter (Jan 3, 2011)

*Thanks!*

I got it to seat in there with some oil, a small piece of pipe and the rubber mallet. 
this is just all new to me and I am not wanting to screw it up. I got the clutch and FW back on now and just waiting on the piston from Greece.


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## subhunter (Jan 12, 2011)

The piston finally came in from Greece. I thought it was going to be a Episan but it turned out to be a meteor. I massaged the piston a bit before putting it on the rod.
The cylinder seemed as if it could be widened quite a lot and I opened it up some. I use the dremel and some small needle files to grind the ports. I left the transfers alone. This is my third jug to grind on and it doesnt look that great but I am hoping that it runs pretty good. 
Critics please? 
best pic I could get of EX




intake












squish


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## jockeydeuce (Jan 12, 2011)

Can't tell from your pics, but make sure you put a chamfer back on the inside of those ports where you widened them....You don't want to catch the edge of a ring.

Is that .029 squish with a gasket or without?


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## subhunter (Jan 12, 2011)

I put a slight camfer on the edges and they seem nice and smooth. At first I had them kinda sharp and had to work them more. The .029 was with out the gasket. I am about to put the jug back on now.


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## jockeydeuce (Jan 12, 2011)

subhunter said:


> I put a slight camfer on the edges and they seem nice and smooth. At first I had them kinda sharp and had to work them more. The .029 was with out the gasket. I am about to put the jug back on now.



Wow! That's still pretty wide on the squish without a gasket....You're well into the safe zone going gasketless.


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## Cantdog (Jan 12, 2011)

Looking good.....HMMM that squish seems a bit large for no gasket but it is what it is.....are you sure that the solder was at the exact edge of the piston?


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## subhunter (Jan 12, 2011)

I ran two strips of solder across the piston, one intake to exaust the other side to side. Secured them with masking tape and bolted the jug up then turned it over. The .029 was at the exaust and was the smallest number. The two sides were both right at .033 and the intake was at .030. But I thought they were all within tolerance.I am hoping this turns out well. 

On another subject, today I called the husqvarna dealer I like to visit the most ( a local Co Op) and kindly ask if they had the tools to do a vacuum and or pressure test on a saw. He said yea bring it on up I can check the compression for you. I said no I have a compression tester, I need to test the crankcase for any air leaks. Would you believe he had no clue as to what I was talking about and then said they had no such tools.:bang: I had a el cheapo HF brake bleeder but today I went to use it and it would no longer pull a vacuum.


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## almondgt (Jan 12, 2011)

subhunter said:


> I put a slight camfer on the edges and they seem nice and smooth. At first I had them kinda sharp and had to work them more. The .029 was with out the gasket. I am about to put the jug back on now.


 
Are you going to use the 2 piston pin retainer clips that came with the meteor piston? I have read most people prefer to use oem clips. As far as that goes some even say to put in an oem ring and oem piston pin on the meteor piston. If you replaced the crankcase gasket, both crank seals you should be relatively safe in firing that saw up with the top end parts you decide to install. Make sure carb/carb gaskets are all good and everything is tightly secured. Is there an A or AB or B designation stamped on the top of your cylinder and is the piston marked with any letter/s?
Just wondering........:chainsawguy:


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## subhunter (Jan 12, 2011)

Yes I used the two clips and the wrist pin. I have not really read any bad on the meteor pistons. I looked it over to make sure the end of the wrist pin wasn't tapered, it was flat. I did think to use the set of OEM clips but I thought they seemed plenty of stiff and springy. Only time will tell I guess........

Now I am wondering should I pull the jug back off and use the two new clips I already have??:taped::taped:

Edit: piston had AB etched into it and the top of the jug confused me a bit....


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## almondgt (Jan 12, 2011)

subhunter said:


> Yes I used the two clips and the wrist pin. I have not really read any bad on the meteor pistons. I looked it over to make sure the end of the wrist pin wasn't tapered, it was flat. I did think to use the set of OEM clips but I thought they seemed plenty of stiff and springy. Only time will tell I guess........
> 
> Now I am wondering should I pull the jug back off and use the two new clips I already have??:taped::taped:


 
Retracted my comment as Cantdogs post regarding piston clips later on makes sense.
:chainsawguy:


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## Cantdog (Jan 12, 2011)

subhunter said:


> I ran two strips of solder across the piston, one intake to exaust the other side to side. Secured them with masking tape and bolted the jug up then turned it over. The .029 was at the exaust and was the smallest number. The two sides were both right at .033 and the intake was at .030. But I thought they were all within tolerance.I am hoping this turns out well.
> 
> On another subject, today I called the husqvarna dealer I like to visit the most ( a local Co Op) and kindly ask if they had the tools to do a vacuum and or pressure test on a saw. He said yea bring it on up I can check the compression for you. I said no I have a compression tester, I need to test the crankcase for any air leaks. Would you believe he had no clue as to what I was talking about and then said they had no such tools.:bang: I had a el cheapo HF brake bleeder but today I went to use it and it would no longer pull a vacuum.




I'm sure it will be fine...the reason I asked is I always use meteor pistons and without a gasket they usually fall in 0.017"-0.021" range more or less so I was just wondering if your solder was all they way out to the edge of the piston. The squish band tapers up rather quickly from the outside...just seems large to me is all.


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## almondgt (Jan 12, 2011)

subhunter said:


> Yes I used the two clips and the wrist pin. I have not really read any bad on the meteor pistons. I looked it over to make sure the end of the wrist pin wasn't tapered, it was flat. I did think to use the set of OEM clips but I thought they seemed plenty of stiff and springy. Only time will tell I guess........
> 
> Now I am wondering should I pull the jug back off and use the two new clips I already have??:taped::taped:
> 
> Edit: piston had AB etched into it and the top of the jug confused me a bit....


 
If your piston is marked AB you are good to go. Do both pistons you have on hand generally look the same in design? The meteor piston looks like a nice one. :chainsawguy:


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## Cantdog (Jan 12, 2011)

The AB size code means that it will work in either A or B size cyls...happy medium so to speak. It's good.....

I wouldn't worry about the pin clips. As long as they were installed with the gap at 12:00 or 6:00 they will be fine. I would worry more using OEM clips in an aftermarket piston. The groves are machined to fit the clips the piston came with, not a different brand. Meteor and Episan are good quality Italian made pistons. I think you'll find the clip troubles show up more on pistons from the far east and people installing the clips incorrectly. Golf etc.


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## subhunter (Jan 12, 2011)

*I stand corrected*

The clip thing had me worried as I have had some clips fail once with a golf piston so I took it back apart to use the new OEM clips. The piston only says B not AB. Should that still work? I measured using feeler gauge and it was nice and tight. No slop.


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## almondgt (Jan 12, 2011)

subhunter said:


> The clip thing had me worried as I have had some clips fail once with a golf piston so I took it back apart to use the new OEM clips. The piston only says B not AB. Should that still work? I measured using feeler gauge and it was nice and tight. No slop.


 
Read Cantdogs post previous to this one. Makes sense so I retracted my comment. I personally have never used an aftermarket piston assembly. What marking A B does your old piston have on top? Do both pistons look the same? :chainsawguy:


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## Cantdog (Jan 12, 2011)

You have a "B" sized cyl and a "B" sized piston. It doesn't get any better than that. Good to go. Personally I would use the clips that came with the Meteor for the afore mentioned reason. But do what you feel best with, just make sure the gaps are positioned correctly..


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## subhunter (Jan 13, 2011)

Got it all finished today with some time to let it run as well. It popped on the first pull! and started on the second. I was impressed but what really impressed me was the compression number I got out of it. My gauge read 150 after the second pull and after 6 pulls




Are there and negative effects to having such high compression?


The thing that gets me is that it still has a bit of oil seeping through the split in the muffler. No where near the amount before but a small amount. I have it set rich but I haven't seen the oil seep out before this saw. I am going to run it and see how it goes. 










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## almondgt (Jan 13, 2011)

subhunter said:


> The clip thing had me worried as I have had some clips fail once with a golf piston so I took it back apart to use the new OEM clips. The piston only says B not AB. Should that still work? I measured using feeler gauge and it was nice and tight. No slop.


 
Congrats! Sounds like you have a running saw. Time will tell how good your rebuild is. If she's running rich that is your excess oil leaking at the muffler. Couple tanks of fuel through the saw and lean the saw out some and that oil leakage will dissipate. Make sure your final adjustment on the H screw on the carb is at least 3/4 turn out from closed or you could melt your top end. One comment regarding your muffler. If that muffler comes apart in two halves straighten out the front half. You would be amazed how much better the entire unit will appear if you do it. One more comment. Pull start grip looks funny too. OEM in my book is the cats meow. Did you grease your clutch bearing? Did you grease your chainsaw bar tip? 
:chainsawguy:


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