# Tree hung up on other trees.



## Allar (Jan 26, 2019)

I knew this tree was going to get hung up, there was no question about it. The real question was, where to fell it, so it makes as minimal damage to the other trees as possible. Overal, no real damage was done, so i'm quite happy with the outcome.

Also the shower of snow, made me blind for a few seconds 

The felling lever is such a useful tool, every homeowner should own one.


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## chipper1 (Jan 31, 2019)

Nice video, like the husky.
So is this all being cut for firewood. Do you haul it back and then buck it to length, how long.
Couldn't you have used the lever earlier on.
Brett


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## Allar (Jan 31, 2019)

chipper1 said:


> Nice video, like the husky.
> So is this all being cut for firewood. Do you haul it back and then buck it to length, how long.
> Couldn't you have used the lever earlier on.
> Brett



Thanks.

Yeah it's going to be firewood. I buck my trees in the forest to 45cm ~ 17.7'' and throw em into a pile. I'll haul them out once the snow is melted.

Yeah i could have used the lever earler and i usually do. But because i was recording and not everyone have the lever, i decided to use the most common approach.


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## chipper1 (Jan 31, 2019)

Thanks for the response.
I was asking about where you buck them up at because I see guys give those of us the states a hard time cutting off the ground higher. I understand cutting lower to get a log out if the butt section, but not when it's firewood. I like to cut them higher so I'm able to see exactly what I'm doing without bending over, then I will come back and flush cut the stump. When I do my felling cuts I just make sure I'm leaving enough for one nice round below them.


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## Allar (Jan 31, 2019)

chipper1 said:


> Thanks for the response.
> I was asking about where you buck them up at because I see guys give those of us the states a hard time cutting off the ground higher. I understand cutting lower to get a log out if the butt section, but not when it's firewood. I like to cut them higher so I'm able to see exactly what I'm doing without bending over, then I will come back and flush cut the stump. When I do my felling cuts I just make sure I'm leaving enough for one nice round below them.



Well i'm working on my own forest, so i doubt that anyone else besides me cares if i leave too high stumps or not.

i love low stumps, i even changed my felling technique to get lower stumps. I used to make angled cut first but it was harder to guess what the stump height gonna be and i often had high stumps.
So now i make the straight cut first, which lets me set the stump hight right away.

I do have to bend over on my knee to make that low stump but it's not an issue for me.

But whenever i can't make a low stump, i do use the same technique by leaving enough wood for another round.


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## chipper1 (Jan 31, 2019)

I like them left low too unless there will be a piece of equipment coming behind me, then I leave them two rounds high.
I like to flush cut the last round straight across back barring, then no wedges are needed as the chips fill the void if the stum is wider than the bar or I pull the bar out a little as I go around it.
Nice to have a great piece of property like that, beautiful land there .


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## 560Dennis (Jul 4, 2019)

What bar size? ,model is the Husky ? I know little about the newer saws , I got a old McCulloch.thinking seriously about up grading . Thanks 
I have a dead ash widow maker just like what you did with your saw to do. Thanks for the video .


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## Allar (Jul 4, 2019)

560Dennis said:


> What bar size? ,model is the Husky ? I know little about the newer saws , I got a old McCulloch.thinking seriously about up grading . Thanks
> I have a dead ash widow maker just like what you did with your saw to do. Thanks for the video .



It's a Husqvarna 545 with a 15'' bar. What i love about this and newer saws is that they have such a good power and weight ratio and because of the autotune/m-tronic you will never need to mess around with the carburetor. Also newer saws are so much easier on your body. Be safe!


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## Rickz26 (Sep 3, 2019)

Looks very tricky to cut down a tree there will all other trees nearby.


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## mrgrtt123 (Sep 9, 2019)

Rickz26 said:


> Looks very tricky to cut down a tree there will all other trees nearby.



I agree, but I feel like OP have managed to figure it out as it seems like he has been doing it in the long run.


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## Deleted member 117362 (Sep 9, 2019)

Have done them like that before, but prefer to back tractor up and drag them down.


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## WildernessJeep (Sep 28, 2019)

So technique? So you make a normal cut, it gets hung up. Then it looks like you cut through about 3/4 of the way, starting on the top (compressed) side of the tree. You cut all the way through, leaving a bit on the side away from you, then come back from the bottom of the tree so it doesn't bind and hit the last bit. Do I have that right? Any other tips?


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## chipper1 (Sep 28, 2019)

WildernessJeep said:


> So technique? So you make a normal cut, it gets hung up. Then it looks like you cut through about 3/4 of the way, starting on the top (compressed) side of the tree. You cut all the way through, leaving a bit on the side away from you, then come back from the bottom of the tree so it doesn't bind and hit the last bit. Do I have that right? Any other tips?


Welcome to AS sir.
Much depends on the species, the lean, and how the tree is weighted and where that weight is.
If you cut through 3/4 of the way on the compression side you will most likely have some problems, 1/4-1/3 is usually all you can get away with unless the tree is almost vertical.
How much you leave and on what side is a matter of reading the situation as I was saying above.
Be careful, practice on low risk trees and if you're unsure or uncomfortable get someone to teach you in person.


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## Skeans (Sep 29, 2019)

WildernessJeep said:


> So technique? So you make a normal cut, it gets hung up. Then it looks like you cut through about 3/4 of the way, starting on the top (compressed) side of the tree. You cut all the way through, leaving a bit on the side away from you, then come back from the bottom of the tree so it doesn't bind and hit the last bit. Do I have that right? Any other tips?





chipper1 said:


> Welcome to AS sir.
> Much depends on the species, the lean, and how the tree is weighted and where that weight is.
> If you cut through 3/4 of the way on the compression side you will most likely have some problems, 1/4-1/3 is usually all you can get away with unless the tree is almost vertical.
> How much you leave and on what side is a matter of reading the situation as I was saying above.
> Be careful, practice on low risk trees and if you're unsure or uncomfortable get someone to teach you in person.



Here’s a quick tip a full faced Dutchman with a snipe on the stump with a narrow humboldt face will get the tree going faster as well as off the stump normally allowing them to by pass a hang up. Option two put a little swing in her something I do a pretty good amount when thinning you’ll swing the top out of the foreseeable hang up. Another option is to slip it off the stump side ways and the last one is slip it off the stump backwards. All three of these were swung I can’t recommend this be done by someone that’s green one bit but you get the idea.













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## chipper1 (Sep 29, 2019)

Skeans said:


> Here’s a quick tip a full faced Dutchman with a snipe on the stump with a narrow humboldt face will get the tree going faster as well as off the stump normally allowing them to by pass a hang up. Option two put a little swing in her something I do a pretty good amount when thinning you’ll swing the top out of the foreseeable hang up. Another option is to slip it off the stump side ways and the last one is slip it off the stump backwards. All three of these were swung I can’t recommend this be done by someone that’s green one bit but you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hanging out at the stump is definitely not something for a greenhorn.
But it sure can produce some great results. Wish I got the opportunity to use it more often.
Did you make it out to the garage, I'm real curious about those chassis'.


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## Skeans (Sep 29, 2019)

chipper1 said:


> Hanging out at the stump is definitely not something for a greenhorn.
> But it sure can produce some great results. Wish I got the opportunity to use it more often.
> Did you make it out to the garage, I'm real curious about those chassis'.



Pm sent there’s some slight differences not much.

There’s ways to set up the cuts so you’re not hanging around too long but you really need to spend the time with someone who does it everyday. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rumatt (Sep 29, 2019)

WildernessJeep said:


> So technique? So you make a normal cut, it gets hung up. Then it looks like you cut through about 3/4 of the way, starting on the top (compressed) side of the tree. You cut all the way through, leaving a bit on the side away from you, then come back from the bottom of the tree so it doesn't bind and hit the last bit. Do I have that right? Any other tips?


I was wondering the same. 

What are the gotchas here?  

How likely is it that the base of the tree ends up falling toward you? Seems pretty low but is there anything you need to do to ensure it?

Bar getting pinched - seems high. Does cutting half way through from the top then finishing with an undercut not work here? (full width of the tree in both cuts)

Angled vs straight cuts. I've seen some folks do this with angled cuts rather than straight. I wasn't sure whether angled produced a better result (helps tree fall away from you) or was just more convenient due to the reach and saw angle.


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## Deleted member 117362 (Sep 29, 2019)

chipper1 said:


> Thanks for the response.
> I was asking about where you buck them up at because I see guys give those of us the states a hard time cutting off the ground higher. I understand cutting lower to get a log out if the butt section, but not when it's firewood. I like to cut them higher so I'm able to see exactly what I'm doing without bending over, then I will come back and flush cut the stump. When I do my felling cuts I just make sure I'm leaving enough for one nice round below them.


Why don't you just pull it down with that Kubota?


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## chipper1 (Sep 29, 2019)

Duce said:


> Why don't you just pull it down with that Kubota?


I do and the skidding winch .
If its in a location I can't get to with the tractor or a redirect you have to do whatever it takes to get it down, I wont leave them leaning long if I can avoid it. 
I often purposely tip a tree into another, then remove sections as in the video to shorten it up and when its short enough I tip it back the other direction towards the stump. When you have an 80' tree and. A tight canopy you dont want to damage you make it happen. It also works in fenced in back yards when you dont have a climber, I just dont do it when the customer is watching lol.


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## Allar (Oct 16, 2019)

rumatt said:


> I was wondering the same.
> 
> What are the gotchas here?
> 
> ...



If you read the tree correctly it will not fall towards you, it comes with experience. Also, you can aim the tree by where you make your cuts.

Bar getting pinched depends really on the angle of the tree, when making top cut you just want to blast trough without hesitation. Finishing with a simple undercut will work just fine but i prefer 'scribing' and boring in so my cuts meet perfectly.

I don't think that angled cut helps tree to fall away from you, rather than there's less of a chance to get bar pinched.
I personaly don't like angled cut because then i'm left with ugly angled bucks, i'm really anal about my firewood being squared 


For me personaly getting a tractor into forest during winter is not an option. But the fact that this is firewood let's me use this kind of 'dirty way' to get em down.
Obviously if this was going to be a timber for sawmill then i would come up with something better. Such as boring the hinge out from the middle and then just grind the corners till it either falls on ground or till hinge is gone so i could use my felling lever.


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