# Looking for a Sawmill Shed Design



## Ted J

I'm looking for some ideas on a shed cover for the Woodmizer. I want a ten foot cantilevered roof section, so I'll be able to expand with extra bed sections. I figure 24 foot is probably the longest shed I'll need, and use the post section of the shed for stacking and stickering. With the cantilevered roof section I won't have post to run into and avoiding any unnessesary accidents.

So if ya got any pics post'em up and help me out...

Thanks,
Ted


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## billstuewe

Probably not what you are looking for but this works for me. It is 35x35 and the saw sits just under the roofline. I stack the logs to be cut on the ramp outside and just roll them on the mill as needed.


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## Mike Van

Ted, a 10 ft cantilever is quite an overhang, yet wind blown rain will still come right under it. Up here, the first wet snow would have it on the ground. Why not go 12 or 14 ft and have a few posts? One thing I can tell you is you never have enough room. If I had a jet hangar I'd still bit*h about not enough room.


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## OhioGregg

Bill, Thats about like the way i have mine set up. Works well for me also, can get to it from the outside to load logs on with a 3pt. boom pole on the tractor. Yet, I'm mostly under roof. A larger more open one like you have is more suited for a larger mill, like Ted is looking to cover.

Gregg,

[http://


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## Ted J

Mike Van said:


> Ted, a 10 ft cantilever is quite an overhang, yet wind blown rain will still come right under it. Up here, the first wet snow would have it on the ground. Why not go 12 or 14 ft and have a few posts? One thing I can tell you is you never have enough room. If I had a jet hangar I'd still bit*h about not enough room.



Ain't that the truth... 

Snow..... that sounds refreshing right about now.

The neighbor a couple doors down gave me two C10's that are 24 foot long, I guess I could fab up a 24' x 16' four post cover and put the mill in the middle.

Ted


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## Ted J

billstuewe said:


> Probably not what you are looking for but this works for me. It is 35x35 and the saw sits just under the roofline. I stack the logs to be cut on the ramp outside and just roll them on the mill as needed.



That doesn't look bad though, I'de take it if it was cheap enough.

I like the idea of a log table up to the mill.


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## Ted J

Well, I started on setting post for the cover for the woodmizer.


























The size will be 24x16. Right now the top of the header up on the post is at 9 foot plus.

Right now I'm debating on which way to pitch the roof. The concrete pad has a slope of about 3 inches (towards the post), It was an old dog kennel pad, the reason for the sloped pad...

But, this is the progress so far since starting on Friday.

Later,
Ted


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## HarryHarley

Great pics. Keep them coming. Like to see how "ideas" actually turn out.
Good work so far.


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## Ted J

Not too much progress has been made since the last post due to worknig some OT at the real job and other things that are of higher priority. :bang:
The outside temps don't seem to help either.

Ran into a snag, and I could use some advice or suggestions. The 24 foot channel that I went to get, as it turns out is only 20 foot long.  So, I need to make a 24 foot beam, as that is the span that I need fill.

I have on hand, 2x12x16 footers, I was thinking of making a laminated beam from three of those 2x12's. I was going to cut one 2x12 in half, staggering the sections, like so:
8 foot / 16 foot
16 foot / 8 foot
Using screws every 6 inches apart. alternating sides, for four rows using Strong-Drive® Screws (SDS).

Any suggestions, words of wisdom, or on hand experience? 

Thanks in advance.
Ted


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## Old Hilly

Well, I think I would use some sort of bloody strong waterproof adhesive between those boards, that way you would end up with a sort of laminated beam that would be even stronger. You could also consider making a thing that we call a "Barlow truss" down here in OZ. Basically it forms an upside-down truss using steel rod and some steel pipe. This old brain isn't working too well at the moment so rather than totally confuse you while I try to describe it, please look it up on Gooogle or one of those searchengine confusing things. This truss will lower the amount of clearance you have under that beam but it will add greatly to the load the beam will carry. It is not a hard thing to make and almost anyone with a welder and a decent power drill will fiddle one together fairly quickly.
Dennis


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## stipes

*Backwoods would be the man to ask.....*

Seen his work on here and he be the one to ask....


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## HarryHarley

Find a 24 footer and you won't have to worry about all this!! 
Easy for me to say, though.


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## Ted J

HarryHarley said:


> Find a 24 footer and you won't have to worry about all this!!
> Easy for me to say, though.



LOL... ain't that the truth... Although, if I had three more sections for the woodmizer I could cut it myself...


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## Leroy in Kansas

Ted, I used a "fitch plate" at least I think? that's what it's called. This is a piece of heavy sheet metal sandwiched between your 2/12's OR if you choose to use a three layer beam the metal goes between both layers. My son and I built a 26' clear span ceiling/floor in his shop. It's covered with 3/4" tongue and groove ply on the top and 3/4" osb on the bottom, (ceiling of shop) The joist are on 24" center. Doesn't have any bounce from above. I can send pic's if you want? Leroy


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## mrlynx

Why not take a tree in right size and cut it to the right dimension with a chainsaw?
Or do it oldschool with an axe.
There are also more modern alternatives like masonite beams.
http://www.byggmagroup.se/dt_article.aspx?m=2471


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## Backwoods

As long as the log is not to big to handle you can mill it twice on your mill and end up with a 24’ beam. Cut as far as you can on the first cut and trim the tailing off then back the saw out, do that to all four sides then reposition the log on your mill and level the log to the band and finish all the cuts.


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## Coalsmoke

Ted J said:


> Not too much progress has been made since the last post due to worknig some OT at the real job and other things that are of higher priority. :bang:
> The outside temps don't seem to help either.
> 
> Ran into a snag, and I could use some advice or suggestions. The 24 foot channel that I went to get, as it turns out is only 20 foot long.  So, I need to make a 24 foot beam, as that is the span that I need fill.
> 
> I have on hand, 2x12x16 footers, I was thinking of making a laminated beam from three of those 2x12's. I was going to cut one 2x12 in half, staggering the sections, like so:
> 8 foot / 16 foot
> 16 foot / 8 foot
> Using screws every 6 inches apart. alternating sides, for four rows using Strong-Drive® Screws (SDS).
> 
> Any suggestions, words of wisdom, or on hand experience?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> Ted



Yes this is an acceptable building practice, I have done this in outdoor construction and it is strong when done correctly. I don't know about the loading factors for your area, but keep in mind that you will loose some strength and rigidity with a spliced beam. If the original plan is for two 2x12s 24' long, you will want to make 3 layers. 
Layer 1, 6' - 12' - 6' 
Layer 2, 12' - 12'
Layer 3, 6' - 12' - 6'

or option 2:
Layer 1, 8' - 16'
Layer 2, 12' - 12'
Layer 3, 16' - 8'

Either is acceptable. At the ends of each board you will want two fasteners, and then spaced in an up down zig zag pattern every 8-10". Drive your fasteners in on an approximate 30* angle, and use either galvanized spiral nails or an equivalent screw.


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## BackWoodsGuy

I don't know about your area, but the 84 lumber up here carries microllam and it can be ordered in any length or thickness to support what ever amount is needed. most all pro builders are using them now. i used them in my basement to build new headers and support beams.


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## Mike Van

This is part of the header on the open side of my sawmill. It's 40 ft long, has openings of 18, 14 & 8 ft. Made of four oak 2x12's, double bolted every 2 ft. Overkill? Maybe a little. In the 14 ft span, using 2 chain hoists I picked a 24" old castiron planer off a trailer. We estimated the planer at 2800 lbs. The header never sagged, squeaked, or otherwise bit*hed about it's task.


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## Ted J

Leroy in Kansas said:


> Ted, I used a "fitch plate" at least I think? that's what it's called. This is a piece of heavy sheet metal sandwiched between your 2/12's OR if you choose to use a three layer beam the metal goes between both layers. My son and I built a 26' clear span ceiling/floor in his shop. It's covered with 3/4" tongue and groove ply on the top and 3/4" osb on the bottom, (ceiling of shop) The joist are on 24" center. Doesn't have any bounce from above. I can send pic's if you want? Leroy



I thought about the flitch plate but I was trying to see if I could make up the board by sandwiching 16 foot 2x12's and alternating the splices. Like this:





I have on hand about 20 2x12's, and I'm trying to use them up.
So, let me know your thoughts on this.

Ted


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## Ted J

Coalsmoke said:


> Yes this is an acceptable building practice, I have done this in outdoor construction and it is strong when done correctly. I don't know about the loading factors for your area, but keep in mind that you will loose some strength and rigidity with a spliced beam. If the original plan is for two 2x12s 24' long, you will want to make 3 layers.
> Layer 1, 6' - 12' - 6'
> Layer 2, 12' - 12'
> Layer 3, 6' - 12' - 6'
> 
> or option 2:
> Layer 1, 8' - 16'
> Layer 2, 12' - 12'
> Layer 3, 16' - 8'
> 
> Either is acceptable. At the ends of each board you will want two fasteners, and then spaced in an up down zig zag pattern every 8-10". Drive your fasteners in on an approximate 30* angle, and use either galvanized spiral nails or an equivalent screw.



I had just posted my drawing when I noticed the second page of posts.....

Coalsmoke... Simpson makes 3 inch galvanized screws just for this, although they recommend driving the screws at least into 2 1/2 boards on 3 layered boards. I could only get the 3 inch so I will alternate sides with the screws.

but were thinking along the same line here....

Ted


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## Ted J

Backwoods said:


> As long as the log is not to big to handle you can mill it twice on your mill and end up with a 24’ beam. Cut as far as you can on the first cut and trim the tailing off then back the saw out, do that to all four sides then reposition the log on your mill and level the log to the band and finish all the cuts.



Right now I don't have the means to bring in a 24 foot log, but it's good to know what I need to do if I want to cut a log longer than the mill,
Thanks!!!!





BackWoodsGuy said:


> I don't know about your area, but the 84 lumber up here carries microllam and it can be ordered in any length or thickness to support what ever amount is needed. most all pro builders are using them now. i used them in my basement to build new headers and support beams.



That's a thought, but I wanted to use real wood for the sawmill cover. The only other problem again is getting two of those beams home, unless I have it delivered. I wonder how much they would charge to deliver only two.......


thanks for all the thoughts and ideas. I love this place!!!!

Ted 

stay tuned, i'll post more pics as I go. opcorn:


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## Ted J

Mike Van said:


> This is part of the header on the open side of my sawmill. It's 40 ft long, has openings of 18, 14 & 8 ft. Made of four oak 2x12's, double bolted every 2 ft. Overkill? Maybe a little. In the 14 ft span, using 2 chain hoists I picked a 24" old castiron planer off a trailer. We estimated the planer at 2800 lbs. The header never sagged, squeaked, or otherwise bit*hed about it's task.



Mike,
Do you mind posting some more pictures to get an idea of the overall layout of what you got there?
Ted


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## Mike Van

Ted - I'll geta few more pics later today -


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## Coalsmoke

Ted J said:


> I had just posted my drawing when I noticed the second page of posts.....
> 
> Coalsmoke... Simpson makes 3 inch galvanized screws just for this, although they recommend driving the screws at least into 2 1/2 boards on 3 layered boards. I could only get the 3 inch so I will alternate sides with the screws.
> 
> but were thinking along the same line here....
> 
> Ted



Sounds good to me. I wouldn't bother getting fancy with the ends like in the drawing, but it sure won't hurt anything if you want to do it that way.


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## Mike Van

Ted, a few more pics. First is the overall view of the front [business side] The open part is 20x40, the closed in shop 20x20. The big header is along the 40 ft shown here.



The next pic shows the same header closer up



The span in the middle is 18 ft, as the mill will do 16' 4". The span on the far right I have an overhead crane for, just can't seem to get the time to put it up. There are 8x8 oak posts under it, with 3x5 braces that are half lapped let in & a 5" lag to keep them from falling out.



The last pic is from the inside looking out. I did this in '95, before that I'd just cover the mill up in early winter & not use it 'till spring. It was some pain in the :censored: Trying to get through the snow & froze down tarps, so I just didn't bother - "closed for the winter" used to be the motto.


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## Ted J

Coalsmoke said:


> Sounds good to me. I wouldn't bother getting fancy with the ends like in the drawing, but it sure won't hurt anything if you want to do it that way.



That is funny........ Let me tell you why.... I got out there this morning, got a couple saw horses set up for cutting, lay out the lines on a couple of 2x12's, grabbed the saw..... started thinkin'..... damn:censored:! Ya know it looks preety on paper, but it ain't practical!!!! Musta been a heavy coffee day or sumptin'?

I decide to just make the cuts straight and have two rows of screws on each side of every splice cut...

I didn't get much past that, as we had an appointment for the dog at the vet... at least the plan is a bit better.... 

Ted


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## Ted J

Mike Van said:


> Ted, a few more pics. First is the overall view of the front [business side] The open part is 20x40, the closed in shop 20x20. ....................
> Trying to get through the snow & froze down tarps, so I just didn't bother - "closed for the winter" used to be the motto.



Thanks for taking the extra pics, gives me a few ideas, especially the half lapped bracing.

Now about this snow stuff....... I would have welcomed it outside this morning, I was soaked in two hours, and it wasn't raining either. 

Thanks again for all the comments,
Ted


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## Mike Van

I hear you Ted - No where near as hot here as you get, but I'm ready for fall. I never got as many stinkin mosquito bites as this year, even back when I was in boy scouts.


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## Coalsmoke

Ted J said:


> That is funny........ Let me tell you why.... I got out there this morning, got a couple saw horses set up for cutting, lay out the lines on a couple of 2x12's, grabbed the saw..... started thinkin'..... damn:censored:! Ya know it looks preety on paper, but it ain't practical!!!! Musts been a heavy coffee day or sumptin'?
> 
> I decide to just make the cuts straight and have two rows of screws on each side of every splice cut...
> 
> I didn't get much past that, as we had an appointment for the dog at the vet... at least the plan is a bit better....
> 
> Ted



Haha yeah, sometimes simple is nice.


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## Ted J

A little progress is made considering the heat and humidity issues. :censored:
I only had to change clothes two times today, compared to four times yesterday. 

I figured that I spend 1/3 of my time working, 1/3 wiping my brow and cleaning my glasses, and 1/3 taking a water break. I'm glad I don't do this for a living, 'cause I'de be broke, alot thinner, but broke! 

I know that my real job as a desk/computer jockey, sitting in A/C all day doesn't help, but it does pay for the hobby. For those of you who work outside doin' this stuff for a living....

Ted


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## Mike Van

AT least there's a little shade there Ted - Some places in Texas are a little bleaker looking?


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## demographic

Seems I missed this thread coming up first time but for anyone else wanting downloadable plans for agricultural building its worth looking HERE, they tend to start out massive and get bigger from there on in though but there's a few that could be adapted for your use though I imagine, just click on the bar on the left to see whats there is on offer to download.


Just have a look through whats on offer and see what looks about the right size.
Regards Scott,.


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## Kobraken

You guys aint seen hot. But i do understand what yall are saying. I am a plumber/pipefitter and have spent the last 6 weeks on top of a asphalt roof running 6 inch weld pipe for chilled water air conditioning systems for a school. Roof surface temps taken with a infra-red digital temp at mid day hover between 165-189 degrees. with the sun beating down on you under a tarp tent it is usually aroun 120-130, if the wind stops, we get off the roof. If you bend over all the sweat condensed in your hard hat falls in your face. But somebodys got to do it. (wish it wasn't me!!!!) so when i was milling last weekend and the ground temp was only 101, i was thinking of going and getting a jacket. hahahahahahaha


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## Ted J

Kobraken said:


> You guys aint seen hot. But i do understand what yall are saying. I am a plumber/pipefitter and have spent the last 6 weeks on top of a asphalt roof running 6 inch weld pipe for chilled water air conditioning systems for a school. Roof surface temps taken with a infra-red digital temp at mid day hover between 165-189 degrees. with the sun beating down on you under a tarp tent it is usually aroun 120-130, if the wind stops, we get off the roof. If you bend over all the sweat condensed in your hard hat falls in your face. But somebodys got to do it. (wish it wasn't me!!!!) so *when i was milling last weekend and the ground temp was only 101, i was thinking of going and getting a jacket. hahahahahahaha*



See.... the heats done got to him!!!!!  

Kobraken, Take it easy on those roofs......

Ted


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## Ted J

Mike Van said:


> AT least there's a little shade there Ted - Some places in Texas are a little bleaker looking?



A little shade and a refrigerator full of cold drinks.....


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## Marklambert61

*saw and milling shed*

Finally got my shed started she will be 18' X 32' with 10' walls I will post some pictures soon...

Mark


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## Ted J

Marklambert61 said:


> Finally got my shed started she will be 18' X 32' with 10' walls I will post some pictures soon...
> 
> Mark



Cool...
I bet you'll probably get yours done before mine too!

Ted


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## Ted J

Finally, got some work done on the shed and the day wasn't too bad weather wise.
Got the rest of the banding around the top done, and the 24 foot beam is fabbed up, and placed up top. Until I can get up there and bolt it in, I have it clamped and wired in place. The boys were worried that it might fall over if we had another storm blow through again, so for safety's sake, just in case.
Here are the pics:

Ted


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## Beefie

Marklambert61 said:


> Finally got my shed started she will be 18' X 32' with 10' walls I will post some pictures soon...
> 
> Mark



That is the same size as the one I am working on, only my side walls are11.5' tall. I am building mine for firewood storage but hope some day to get a band mill. That is the main purpose,build it bigger than you think you need because it is never big enough. The Wife came out and said" I thought you were building a little shed" I said " I am building a little shed" She said "That dosn't look like no little shed to me"

But honey I got almost all the lumber free, And it was enough to put up this shed. 

She said whatever and walked back into the house.:hmm3grin2orange:

You can check out my progress on the firewood forum.

Beefie


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## Kobraken

You could build it twice as big as it is now, and it would end up being half as big as you need in the end. Story of every building i ever started on. Ken


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## Old Hilly

No, no, no. You have it all wrong.
A shed can NEVER be big enough! 
Murphy's second Law of Posessions clearly states (and has been proved on countless ocasions) that a person's posessions will acumulate so that they will fill 120% of the available space within a period of less than 12 (calendar) months.
Murphy's third law states that any item you need in a hurry will be found in the corner farthest away from the door and under at least 2 heavy objects that require at least 2 people to move them. As always, there will only be enough room for one person near the objects to be moved.
Murphy lives about 5 miles from me.


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## Ted J

Actually, the current plan is to only build half of the shed. That 24 foot beam is really the middle. At some time in the future I will add two more columns and another 24 foot beam, move the Woodmizer onto the 12 foot wide concrete slab that is there and use this part for wood storage or who know's.

Well, that's the plan... so far 

Ted


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## Old Hilly

Beaudy!That's more like it!Then you can have an addition to the extention of the original shed. This is sounding more Australian as we go along. A bloke can never have a big enough shed.:wave:


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## Kobraken

Just added on a 15 wide x 40 long addition to my 34wide x 50 long shop. 2300 sq ft under roof and i am already trying to figure out how to add on . or do i need to build another building altogether?


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## Ted J

Kobraken said:


> Just added on a 15 wide x 40 long addition to my 34wide x 50 long shop. 2300 sq ft under roof and i am already trying to figure out how to add on . or do i need to build another building altogether?



What.... no pictures?  If you don't add pictures then it's just :spam:


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## Kobraken

Ouch, I hate Spam. So heres your pic. I actually do have all the materials to put the sides on and the gables. Just gotta get time to do it.


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## Sawyer Rob

I pushed the sod off a spot today, where i'm going to put up a roof over my sawmill... It won't go up fast, but at least i got a start on it!












Next will be putting some sand down, to bring it up to the grade i want...

Rob


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## Ted J

Rob,

Looks like your off to a good start.

What kind of base are you going to do, gravel or concrete? How big are ya going?

Keep the pics coming.

Ted


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## Old Hilly

G'day Rob. Just fallen in love (lust, actually) with your tractor. What sort is it?
Dennis.


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## Ted J

Old Hilly said:


> G'day Rob. Just fallen in love (lust, actually) with your tractor. What sort is it?
> Dennis.



Dennis,
You don't mean to say... "you think his tractors sexy"???????????

....Looks like a Case 450 Crawler Bulldozer....

Ted


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## Backwoods

Old Hilly said:


> G'day Rob. Just fallen in love (lust, actually) with your tractor. What sort is it?
> Dennis.



Next thing you know, that little dozer will be dragging logs to your mill. Can here the bells now.

Those are a handy size to have. I know a guy that has three and would not part with a one of them.


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## Old Hilly

I thought it was a Case but we don't get to see too many small dozers around here, mainly we have the Fiat crawler agricultural tractors with 3 point linkage and sometimes a front blade.
Sexy might not be the right word to discribe that tractor. Attractive would be more like it. Anything that will move a heap of dirt like that definitely attracts me!
Dennis.


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## Sawyer Rob

Ted J said:


> Rob,
> 
> Looks like your off to a good start.
> 
> What kind of base are you going to do, gravel or concrete? How big are ya going?
> 
> Keep the pics coming.
> 
> Ted



Hi Ted,

I'm going to pour concrete... and it's going to be 10' wide, 30' long. I'm pitching the roof all one way, so i can add another 10' later, pitched "the other way". That is "if" i decide i want to make it bigger?

The tractor is a Case 450, it's been a good tractor, i've done quite a bit of work with it here on my place, and also have taken a few jobs with it too...






I've had bigger crawlers, but this one is just the right size for me, and is very handy to have around.

Rob


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## Ted J

Sawyer Rob said:


> Hi Ted,
> 
> I'm going to pour concrete... and it's going to be 10' wide, 30' long. I'm pitching the roof all one way, so i can add another 10' later, pitched "the other way". That is "if" i decide i want to make it bigger?..... <snip>
> Rob



I know exactly what you mean.

I'm figuring I'll be able to cut my own 24 foot beam later on when I decide "if" I want to expand the one I'm building.

Ted


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## Sawyer Rob

Well, today i started digging sand with my loader tractor, moving it to my new build.






I have my own sand pit, but the sand is "fine" sand, my friend up the road a ways, has "course" sand, and that's what you need under a slab...






Once i had some sand hauled, i compacted it in, using the tractor tires for the "packing". I'll put water on it when i'm done, to settle the sand even more...






Hopefully, i'll find some time S   N to get the rest of the sand i need!!

Rob


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## Sawyer Rob

OK guys, it's time to saw out some lumber to go over my "fancy new concrete", that's not poured yet. lol I even found myself a "helper", to make my day more productive than usual!

So, i got started by loading a really nice white pine, a friend gave me,






Boy, this was a nice log, and i didn't need it as long as it was, so i chainsawed off the crooked end, and milled this log into 2x12's, as i need headers!






Next log on the mill, was a soft maple,






And this log became 2x6's for the rafters i'll need!






With those two logs out of the way, it was time to get started on a pile of old red pine logs, that my neighbor gave me. These logs came out of a powerline, that the utility guys sawed out. So, i started loading them TWO at a time, and got to sawing,






Some of them i milled into 5/4 x 4" lumber,


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## Sawyer Rob

And some of the better ones,






I sawed into 2x6's,






I split some of the logs, and then lay all the pieces on the bunks, to saw out, four 5/4 x 4" boards at a time,






Until we FINALLY ended up with a nice pile of "construction" lumber,






As i have time, i still will have to "saw out" more lumber, so stay tuned!

Rob


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## Ted J

Sawyer Rob said:


> As i have time, i still will have to "saw out" more lumber, so stay tuned!
> 
> Rob



Looking good Rob.


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## Backwoods

Looking god Rob. 
I have not played with milling two logs at a time much because they tend to roll up in the middle on my mill, but you have a different dogging system. But when making stickers I can stack them 24 wide if I want to, but 10-15 is easier on the saw. You keep working away on getting that shed package cut out and in no time you will have a nice dry place to work.


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## Ted J

I find it interesting how Rob can call maple.... "construction lumber"!!!


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## Ted J

We had a couple of trees that needed to come down.

One was in the driveway area and has been dropping branches, and it was time to bring'em down before someone got hit walking to the shop.






The other was at the back of the house and has a fungus disease and some of the branches are starting to die also... the one in the middle of the pic,





So, we decided they should come down at the same time.

Now, I did pay someone else to cut them down.... yeah yeah yeah, I know, I could've done it myself.... but he had cut the neighbors tree down that had the same problem, and I got this big chunk....





The main reason in paying to have them cut down was to get rid of the stumps, and... well...., since he had a stump grinder.


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## Ted J

That is also when he took more interest in the Woodmizer, and mentions he always has trees that either gets cut up for firewood or gets burned, and offers to bring them over and maybe get a little milled lumber in return.

WELL....
Today he brings me these....
















Looks like I gotta finish the roof on the sawmill cover, and soon too. The wife said he'll be bringing over the other half of the logs this weekend.

Looks like I got a log supplier... 

Later,
Ted


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## gr8scott72

Ted J said:


> That is also when he took more interest in the Woodmizer, and mentions he always has trees that either gets cut up for firewood or gets burned, and offers to bring them over and maybe get a little milled lumber in return.
> 
> WELL....
> Today he brings me these....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I gotta finish the roof on the sawmill cover, and soon too. The wife said he'll be bringing over the other half of the logs this weekend.
> 
> Looks like I got a log supplier...
> 
> Later,
> Ted



Many tree guys would love to have places that they could drop off logs instead of having to take them to the dump, burn them, or try to use them for firewood. I know I would. That's part of the reason I jumped on the opportunity to get this CSM.

You might (if you actually want more) run thru the yellow pages and make a few calls offering the same deal to a few of the other tree companies in your area.


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## Ted J

I got just a little something done so far this weekend.
After setting the beam on the posts and bolting it in on both sides, I set half of the rafters in with hurricane ties, and hopefully I'll get the other half done tomorrow, or at least some of the bracing in.





Also had to spend some time on the Woodmizer and mill up a couple of the pine logs for the guy that brought me some oak and pine logs. He took these home to dry in his garage.






Later,
Ted


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## Ted J

Beefie said:


> That is the same size as the one I am working on, only my side walls are11.5' tall. I am building mine for firewood storage but hope some day to get a band mill. That is the main purpose,build it bigger than you think you need because it is never big enough. The Wife came out and said" I thought you were building a little shed" I said " I am building a little shed" She said "That dosn't look like no little shed to me"
> 
> But honey I got almost all the lumber free, And it was enough to put up this shed.
> 
> She said whatever and walked back into the house.:hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> You can check out my progress on the firewood forum.
> 
> Beefie



Beefie,
I paid a visit to the firewood forum and checked out your shed build, very impressive indeed. 

Ted


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## Ted J

*Update on the shed build.....*

Last weekend I finished the last of the rafters, but I didn't know the wife took any pics. I went out and bought a palm nailer..... very nice, it saved my fingers from the hammer while putting up the other half of the joist hangers.





Today I screwed all the decking down, and it's ready for some tar paper and some sheet metal that I have to order. OH, Gel knee pads are a wonderful thing! 

























Later all,
Ted


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## matt9923

How long is that mill? Whats the longest board you can make?


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## Ted J

matt9923 said:


> How long is that mill? Whats the longest board you can make?



Right now I can do an 11 footer. In about a month I should be able to do 24 foot boards, as I intend on getting two more sections. That's the plan so far....

Ted


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## Coalsmoke

Nice work Ted, two thumbs up.


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## Ted J

While I am waiting for the price quote on the sheet metal roof to come in, I decided to add some stain to the wood on the cover. I know some of you are probably saying why.... why stain it?.... Well, the wifes like it, and so do I, and afterwards she tells me to order the sheet metal roofing and whatever else I need. 
Ted

The before and after:


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## Coalsmoke

Looking nice.


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## matt9923

I like the stain


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## MotorSeven

ditto


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## Backwoods

Looks good with the stain you chose. What brand of stain did you use?
I have been liking the results that I have been getting with Cabots stains.


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## Ted J

Backwoods said:


> Looks good with the stain you chose. What brand of stain did you use?
> I have been liking the results that I have been getting with Cabots stains.



I used the Penofin Ultra Premium Red Label , Transparent Western Red Cedar color. it's rated for 3-5 years on vertical surfaces, and all the reviews I've read on it have been very good.

There are different ways I could have applied the stain, brushing would have involved too much ladder time, spraying would have wasted a lot to drips, runs and over spray. So, I opted to roll it on and took my time, to minimize waste. The stain isn't cheap by any means so slopping it on and wiping it off would have meant a lot of waste also, and being a cheap bastich that I can be....

I still have about 2 inches left in the one gallon can and I still have some nooks and crooks to get to later on. The rosewood oil in the stain doesn't leave the surface feeling oily or tacky, overall I'm very happy with the outcome and how nice it went on.

Next time I will stain before it goes up....

Later,
Ted


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