# 390xp



## parrisw (Dec 16, 2011)

Well, started on the 390 tonight. Got a couple things done.


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## young (Dec 17, 2011)

all new oem replacement parts?


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## Jacob J. (Dec 17, 2011)

young said:


> all new oem replacement parts?



$300 worth of OEM cylinder and piston goodness.


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## parrisw (Dec 17, 2011)

young said:


> all new oem replacement parts?





Jacob J. said:


> $300 worth of OEM cylinder and piston goodness.





Me and JJ worked out a trade. Hopefully he's happy with what he got.


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## Jacob J. (Dec 17, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Me and JJ worked out a trade. Hopefully he's happy with what he got.



Yep, I'm happy, even though you had to shoot that homeless man to get the CT away from him...


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## young (Dec 17, 2011)

i like it.:biggrin:

really hate too see china parts on these saws.


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## parrisw (Dec 17, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> Yep, I'm happy, even though you had to shoot that homeless man to get the CT away from him...



Good!! 

MEH, it was only one homeless guy. There are plenty more! LOL

And hopefully that 357 is doing ok.



young said:


> i like it.:biggrin:
> 
> really hate too see china parts on these saws.



Yes I do like OEM, I do play with the china stuff though, good for experimenting. I don't think there is any after-market cyl kits for 390's is there?


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## AUSSIE1 (Dec 17, 2011)

young said:


> i like it.:biggrin:
> 
> really hate too see china parts on these saws.



Brazilian....no hairs between the teeth working with these parts (piston at least)!



parrisw said:


> I don't think there is any after-market cyl kits for 390's is there?



Nuh! :msp_mad:


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 17, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Me and JJ worked out a trade. Hopefully he's happy with what he got.




Aww dude tell me it aint so!!!!!! You traded that Pristine CT For Husky parts????



parrisw said:


> Well, started on the 390 tonight. Got a couple things done.



Gosh will looks like you getting Low on Your Amsoil!!!!!

You planning on windowing the piston with your new toy????


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## parrisw (Dec 17, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Aww dude tell me it aint so!!!!!! You traded that Pristine CT For Husky parts????
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I traded the CT yes. But the saw your thinking of that I showed you was my CA, I still have that. 

Doesn't look like there is room for windows.

Will


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## parrisw (Dec 18, 2011)

Got some more done this morning. Trying to mock most of it up to see what parts I need to get. 





















Degreed the saw too, stock, base gasket in. Not the normal Husky numbers I'm used to.

Ex- 170° duration, 95° ATDC

Int- 150 duration, 74° FTDC

Tran- 122° duration, 119° ATDC


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## komatsuvarna (Dec 18, 2011)

Wow, The exhaust and transfers is higher than I would have guessed....:msp_confused:

Looks good Will, she runnin yet?


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## parrisw (Dec 18, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> Wow, The exhaust and transfers is higher than I would have guessed....:msp_confused:
> 
> Looks good Will, she runnin yet?



Ya, I thought the same thing. 

Not running yet! LOL


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## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 18, 2011)

Look's like a good start Will! Nice saw!


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## parrisw (Dec 18, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Look's like a good start Will! Nice saw!



Thanks.


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## little possum (Dec 18, 2011)

Any chance this will be the new favorite, and you will just shrug off ever seeing a 372


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## parrisw (Dec 18, 2011)

little possum said:


> Any chance this will be the new favorite, and you will just shrug off ever seeing a 372



Anything is possible I guess. But I don't think anything can take the place of a 372. This will be a big 372 I think, for bigger wood.


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## 385XP (Dec 18, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Anything is possible I guess. But I don't think anything can take the place of a 372. This will be a big 372 I think, for bigger wood.


I like the 372 a lot but the 390 is one saw i will never be without. lots of power but nimble enough to limb . They are great so have fun. by the way you do nice work


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## parrisw (Dec 18, 2011)

385XP said:


> I like the 372 a lot but the 390 is one saw i will never be without. lots of power but nimble enough to limb . They are great so have fun. by the way you do nice work



Many thanks! Can't wait to run it. Never run one before. 

Thanks for the compliments.


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## komatsuvarna (Dec 18, 2011)

You gonna port it Will, or leave it be? With those numbers, where would one port too? I guess if you done a popup and lowered the cylinder some, it would help it out all the way around?


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## Rudolf73 (Dec 18, 2011)

Subscribing to a good build opcorn:


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## parrisw (Dec 18, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> You gonna port it Will, or leave it be? With those numbers, where would one port too? I guess if you done a popup and lowered the cylinder some, it would help it out all the way around?



Yes, will be ported. At a minimum you can widen the ports to max. I'll be lowering the cylinder, thinking of not doing a popup in this one, I haven't checked squish yet.


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## TRI955 (Dec 18, 2011)

I'll be watching too...


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## mdavlee (Dec 18, 2011)

Squish is usually pretty tight around .025-.027" in the 3 I've checked. Compression really helps them come alive though.


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## parrisw (Dec 18, 2011)

mdavlee said:


> Squish is usually pretty tight around .025-.027" in the 3 I've checked. Compression really helps them come alive though.



Ok, if its that tight, I'll probably do a popup, I kinda want to start conservative, since I've heard these port quite a bit differently then 372's. Have gotten a couple tips from a couple good builders, don't want to say anything yet due to respect for them. If they are cool with me sharing then I will.


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## parrisw (Dec 19, 2011)

Checked squish today. Was at .028", doesn't leave much room for lowering. So instead of doing a popup in this saw, I'm going to attempt to cut the squish band if needed, hope I don't screw up a new 390 top end.

Made a jig for holding the cylinder.

Now before anyone jumps all over me for copying others, well, I did, this isn't my idea got the idea from Eric and Dennis, couldn't see any other way to do it so why not use this method.


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## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 19, 2011)

Nice saw Will. I want a 390 have for a long time. Was that a lathe? Good work you do alot of metal work?


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## parrisw (Dec 20, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Nice saw Will. I want a 390 have for a long time. Was that a lathe? Good work you do alot of metal work?



I've been lusting after a 390 for some time now, finally got my mitts on one. 

Yes that's my metal lathe. Do a bit of metal work, mostly chainsaw related.


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## jropo (Dec 20, 2011)

Cool!!! If you never ran one of these things before HANG ON!! They are a beast stock! I recomend PPE. :msp_thumbup:


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## parrisw (Dec 20, 2011)

jropo said:


> Cool!!! If you never ran one of these things before HANG ON!! They are a beast stock! I recomend PPE. :msp_thumbup:



Nope I haven't, can't wait.


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## jropo (Dec 20, 2011)

I started giggling like a little girl when my dealer fired up my 385 to tune the carb.!!!:dribble: I should of known when we had to go outside, when my other saws were fired in the shop!:big_smile:


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## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 20, 2011)

parrisw said:


> I've been lusting after a 390 for some time now, finally got my mitts on one.
> 
> Yes that's my metal lathe. Do a bit of metal work, mostly chainsaw related.


 Awesome Will, nice work, and that is a great skill, the metal work. Is the 390 headed to salt spring island soon?


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## parrisw (Dec 20, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Awesome Will, nice work, and that is a great skill, the metal work. Is the 390 headed to salt spring island soon?



Thanks. If we go there it'll be coming.


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## jropo (Dec 20, 2011)

BUT after running this thing for a year or so I'm wondering what a BB 395 would be like. I know a guy that has a 3120 and its just to friggn big.( I'm 5'8 190 he's 6'+) I would almost dread running some thing like that for a day! The 385 gets heavy at the end of the day, but its so much fun I don't mind. Any more weight would take some fun away. I would recomend a light weight bar if possible, my 36'' Carliton is very nose heavy!


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## parrisw (Dec 20, 2011)

jropo said:


> BUT after running this thing for a year or so I'm wondering what a BB 395 would be like. I know a guy that has a 3120 and its just to friggn big.( I'm 5'8 190 he's 6'+) I would almost dread running some thing like that for a day! The 385 gets heavy at the end of the day, but its so much fun I don't mind. Any more weight would take some fun away. I would recomend a light weight bar if possible, my 36'' Carliton is very nose heavy!



395's get real heavy after a while. I've had a few of them.


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## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 20, 2011)

I have never been a fan of 36in bar's all were nose heavy, and long for my stubby ass!


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## parrisw (Dec 20, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> I have never been a fan of 36in bar's all were nose heavy, and long for my stubby ass!



36" RW


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## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 20, 2011)

That would be the ticket Will. I have never run a reduce'd weight. I want to try one. I do have a 34 standard weight bar on the 2101. My short self has adapted too!


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## jropo (Dec 20, 2011)

parrisw said:


> 36" rw



oooooohhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!! Well if you have ran 395's this 390 might seem weak, I guess thats why your modding!


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## parrisw (Dec 20, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> That would be the ticket Will. I have never run a reduce'd weight. I want to try one. I do have a 34 standard weight bar on the 2101. My short self has adapted too!



Its nice, but they ain't cheap. Cost me a few dollars short of $200 for bar and chain.



jropo said:


> oooooohhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!



Ya I like! Sold that saw though, still have the bar, and down to 1 running 395 now, and one project.


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## jropo (Dec 20, 2011)

Why? Will that bar fit the 390? With the mods I think you should be able to pull full comp. I run skip 73 JGX on my 36'' just to be safe. It seems to have trouble oiling that much surface at times I'm always tring different oils at different times (Summer/Winter). Plain rips w/ 24'' though.


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## Bowtie (Dec 21, 2011)

Cool . Been tossing around a big Husky idea for a while. Had a pair of 372's that I liked. never been above that size in a Husky. May have to try one!

Good thread!


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## SawGarage (Dec 21, 2011)

Wow...

that's some SURPRISINGLY HIGH exh #'s... (and t-fers for that matter...)

Is this going to be a build thread, Will?


if so, I'ma watchin'... 



either way, the plastics on that saw are NICE!!!  


Was this a box-saw from OR??


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## SawGarage (Dec 21, 2011)

jropo said:


> Why? Will that bar fit the 390? With the mods I think you should be able to pull full comp. I run skip 73 JGX on my 36'' just to be safe. It seems to have trouble oiling that much surface at times I'm always tring different oils at different times (Summer/Winter). Plain rips w/ 24'' though.



I wonder if the oil pump can be modded...

OR, if the W saws came with a bigger pump like the Stihl W saws did... :dunno:


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## blsnelling (Dec 21, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Degreed the saw too, stock, base gasket in. Not the normal Husky numbers I'm used to.
> 
> Ex- 170° duration, 95° ATDC
> 
> ...


My 390 was very similiar to yours.:
Ex-96
Tran-122
Int-76

The exhaust isn't that high on a 385.




komatsuvarna said:


> You gonna port it Will, or leave it be? With those numbers, where would one port too? I guess if you done a popup and lowered the cylinder some, it would help it out all the way around?


There's pleny to do in there. All the ports can be widened significantly. The transfers need to come up quite a bit too, IMHO.


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## jropo (Dec 21, 2011)

Bowtie said:


> Cool . Been tossing around a big Husky idea for a while. Had a pair of 372's that I liked. never been above that size in a Husky. May have to try one!
> 
> Good thread!



The only problem w/ the big Husky's is they like BIG wood and its not always avilable. So mine sees some shelf time. I thought that I could put a short bar on and do more cutting w/ it but its heavy and thirsy. When my 357 or your 372 would be like a sord this would be like a big heavy battle ax. Very fun battle ax! When she comes out its by appointment and I bring Moltrin.
View attachment 212518
40'' Limb


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## jropo (Dec 21, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> I wonder if the oil pump can be modded...
> 
> OR, if the W saws came with a bigger pump like the Stihl W saws did... :dunno:



Thats what I'd like to know! But if I'm reaching the limits of my oiler might be time for a bigger saw ( oh no)!


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## parrisw (Dec 21, 2011)

jropo said:


> Why? Will that bar fit the 390? With the mods I think you should be able to pull full comp. I run skip 73 JGX on my 36'' just to be safe. It seems to have trouble oiling that much surface at times I'm always tring different oils at different times (Summer/Winter). Plain rips w/ 24'' though.



No won't be putting a 36 on this. Maybe 33" at most.



SawGarage said:


> Wow...
> 
> that's some SURPRISINGLY HIGH exh #'s... (and t-fers for that matter...)
> 
> ...



Yep, saw in a box from OR.



blsnelling said:


> My 390 was very similiar to yours.:
> Ex-96
> Tran-122
> Int-76
> ...



Trans come up??? Do you mean raise the transfers? If I'm at 119atdc, you got to what 115atdc? 

Were those numbers your stock #'s or modded?


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## CJ1 (Dec 21, 2011)

I really like my 390, it wears a 20" bar most of the time. The saw is light enough to use as a limbing saw but still pulls hard with a 28" bar and full comp chain. I am looking for a 32" bar, I figure it will have no problem with that also. After a few tanks ran through my 395 I could really feel it, not so with the 390. I don't see alot of big wood so for myself to have a dedicated saw for just that makes no sence. With the 390 I have a saw that when the 36"+ trees come up it has no problem and can still be used in the smaller stuff. I really liked my past 285's and 385's so the 390 was the next logical step. CJ


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## blsnelling (Dec 21, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Trans come up??? Do you mean raise the transfers? If I'm at 119atdc, you got to what 115atdc?
> 
> Were those numbers your stock #'s or modded?



Those were the stock numbers.


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 21, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Anything is possible I guess. But I don't think anything can take the place of a 372. This will be a big 372 I think, for bigger wood.



My sentiments,,,, exactly......



parrisw said:


> Yes, will be ported. At a minimum you can widen the ports to max. *I'll be lowering the cylinder, thinking of not doing a popup in this one*, I haven't checked squish yet.



Ya my modded 390XP is blowing 185 psi with a flat top piston with just a squish reduction w/.021 squish,,, it is a freaking animal as the rings are really started getting seated!!!!!


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## SawGarage (Dec 21, 2011)

jropo said:


> Thats what I'd like to know! But if I'm reaching the limits of my oiler might be time for a bigger saw ( oh no)!




Oilers on new -ERA EPA saws put out FAR less oil than the older saws did...one reason ya don't see manual oilers to speak of...someone might BUMP the button, and a few extra drops might come out, hit the ground, get into the local river  and start polluting :msp_ohmy:

and MAYBE it would kill a rare fish, or bird :bang: :taped:...

BUT, the 390xpW comes with a couple carbon-credits you can buy, and THEN your allowed to pollute.. :msp_rolleyes: :msp_mad:



:biggrinbounce2:


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## wigglesworth (Dec 22, 2011)

Bowtie said:


> Cool . Been tossing around a big Husky idea for a while. Had a pair of 372's that I liked. never been above that size in a Husky. May have to try one!
> 
> Good thread!



I know a guy with a pretty nice 385 that needs a good home.


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## jropo (Dec 22, 2011)

More pics please!!
Would a ported 390 top end work on a 385? 
How would a ported 390 stack up to a stock 395?


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## Jacob J. (Dec 22, 2011)

jropo said:


> More pics please!!
> Would a ported 390 top end work on a 385?
> How would a ported 390 stack up to a stock 395?



A ported 390 top end works perfectly on a 385.
I can't speak for Will, but the 357 he built for me would
stay right with a stock 372, so I'm sure his ported 390 
would easily stay with a stock 395.


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## parrisw (Dec 22, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> A ported 390 top end works perfectly on a 385.
> I can't speak for Will, but the 357 he built for me would
> stay right with a stock 372, so I'm sure his ported 390
> would easily stay with a stock 395.



That good eh? I guess I otta port my 357, I don't use it much though, but if it would cut like a stock 372 i'd use it more. 

I'm actually hoping that this 390 will run right by a stock 395.

Yes that's where the beauty of ported saws come in, they'll run with the next size up, but becomes a point where you need a bigger saw when the wood gets huge, if your running big bars.


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## parrisw (Dec 22, 2011)

jropo said:


> More pics please!!
> Would a ported 390 top end work on a 385?
> How would a ported 390 stack up to a stock 395?



Pics of what? ME? LOL 

385 bottom end is same as 390, parts swap right over.


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## jropo (Dec 22, 2011)

CJ1 said:


> I really like my 390, it wears a 20" bar most of the time. The saw is light enough to use as a limbing saw but still pulls hard with a 28" bar and full comp chain. I am looking for a 32" bar, I figure it will have no problem with that also. After a few tanks ran through my 395 I could really feel it, not so with the 390. I don't see alot of big wood so for myself to have a dedicated saw for just that makes no sence. With the 390 I have a saw that when the 36"+ trees come up it has no problem and can still be used in the smaller stuff. I really liked my past 285's and 385's so the 390 was the next logical step. CJ



I personally don't use mine unless I have some bigger firewood that the 357 might struggle with (then its the 24''), or some one wants a big wooden turd out of there yard (then is the 36''). I have probally used my 28'' on maybe 5 trees. If I new then what I know now I would have the pounded into my head recommended "3 saw plan" (346,372,80+cc). But I still stand by my route and you would have to pry my babies from my cold dead fingers. I just have some gaps that need filling. I'm thinking of filling those gaps w/ modded basket case's like parrisw's 390 due to the fact that instead of buying whole XP line up new I could get a newer truck.


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## jropo (Dec 22, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> A ported 390 top end works perfectly on a 385.
> I can't speak for Will, but the 357 he built for me would
> stay right with a stock 372, so I'm sure his ported 390
> would easily stay with a stock 395.



That vid I just watched in the other thread 357 bb? 372 top? That saw sound bbbbbbbbbbbbaaaaaadddd!!!!!!!!
Thats what I thought since they are the same chassie, but was unsure about the transfers lineing up and what not.


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## parrisw (Dec 22, 2011)

jropo said:


> I personally don't use mine unless I have some bigger firewood that the 357 might struggle with (then its the 24''), or some one wants a big wooden turd out of there yard (then is the 36''). I have probally used my 28'' on maybe 5 trees. If I new then what I know now I would have the pounded into my head recommended "3 saw plan" (346,372,80+cc). But I still stand by my route and you would have to pry my babies from my cold dead fingers. I just have some gaps that need filling. I'm thinking of filling those gaps w/ modded basket case's like parrisw's 390 due to the fact that instead of buying whole XP line up new I could get a newer truck.



Almost all of my saws, I've built. I never buy a running saw, unless its a older cool muscle saw I come across.


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## jropo (Dec 22, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Pics of what? ME? LOL
> 
> 385 bottom end is same as 390, parts swap right over.



lol The saw!
How much did you pay for the 390 top end kit ?


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## parrisw (Dec 22, 2011)

jropo said:


> lol The saw!
> How much did you pay for the 390 top end kit ?



I believe they are about $300.


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## jropo (Dec 22, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Almost all of my saws, I've built. I never buy a running saw, unless its a older cool muscle saw I come across.



I want to mod mine but I'm having problems with the idea of tearing into a new saw that I had to scrimp and save for. But swaping out top ends is not that bad. When you port is there anything that needs to be done to the case?


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## jropo (Dec 22, 2011)

parrisw said:


> I believe they are about $300.



Cheaper than a 395 by a thousand or so!
How much to port? Ball park.


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## CJ1 (Dec 22, 2011)

JROPO, My M/M 390 is actually faster than my 395 in everything until it gets into the 16-20" or so range. That is where the torque of the 395 really shines. The only time so far I wished i had the 395 was a 54" tree that I removed last july. So far the 390 has been a good decision for me. Don't get me wrong the 390 handled the tree no problem but the 395 would have been faster in the big cuts. CJ


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## Jacob J. (Dec 22, 2011)

My brother is a timber falling contractor and he runs up to a 42" bar on his 390 without difficulty. I had a 385 towards the tail end of my falling career but I never ran more than a 36" on it and it was heavily modified. You need to be careful though, some other cutter friends have broken the crankcases on the 385/390 running the longer bars in big wood.


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## Jacob J. (Dec 22, 2011)

jropo said:


> Cheaper than a 395 by a thousand or so!
> How much to port? Ball park.



If you could talk Will into doing it, that old boy does good work.


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## parrisw (Dec 22, 2011)

jropo said:


> I want to mod mine but I'm having problems with the idea of tearing into a new saw that I had to scrimp and save for. But swaping out top ends is not that bad. When you port is there anything that needs to be done to the case?



No nothing to the case.



jropo said:


> Cheaper than a 395 by a thousand or so!
> How much to port? Ball park.



Sorry wont be me, got too many of my own things to do right now, and I'm not a sponsor of this site which you need to be to take work from here. Talk to one of the fine builders that are on this site that are sponsors.


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## jropo (Dec 22, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> My brother is a timber falling contractor and he runs up to a 42" bar on his 390 without difficulty. I had a 385 towards the tail end of my falling career but I never ran more than a 36" on it and it was heavily modified. You need to be careful though, some other cutter friends have broken the crankcases on the 385/390 running the longer bars in big wood.



That's kinda what I thought. The Husqvarna book says recomendened bar length max 28'' for the 385/390 so I know I'm pushing it w/ the 36''. And i'm sure there is a reason for that, during testing there might of been long term problems w/ running long bars on the smaller chassie. At the time I thought the 385/28'' would be more than enough for firewood. But the first tree I put that saw into I couldn't see over. I picked up the 36'' for $50 just for fun or the occasional tree, but it seems like it wears the 36'' the most.


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## jropo (Dec 22, 2011)

parrisw said:


> No nothing to the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry wont be me, got too many of my own things to do right now, and I'm not a sponsor of this site which you need to be to take work from here. Talk to one of the fine builders that are on this site that are sponsors.



I totally understand! I was just wondering what the ball park was on these since there seems to be quiet a few good builders on here now days and I was just wondering what the "going rate" was and I'm sure its just like sleds and bikes it all depends on what all you do to it. The $300 for the P/C is out of the question for me right now, but I would like to know how many pop cans I would need to take back before I can start shopping for a good Husqvarna builder.


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## parrisw (Dec 22, 2011)

jropo said:


> I totally understand! I was just wondering what the ball park was on these since there seems to be quiet a few good builders on here now days and I was just wondering what the "going rate" was and I'm sure its just like sleds and bikes it all depends on what all you do to it. The $300 for the P/C is out of the question for me right now, but I would like to know how many pop cans I would need to take back before I can start shopping for a good Husqvarna builder.



I believe $250-300 is the going rate.


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## jropo (Dec 23, 2011)

parrisw said:


> I believe $250-300 is the going rate.



EEEK Thats a New 346!
I hope its worth it!
Looks like the Crapsman is coming apart again! (practice)
395 top 385/390 bottom?
After market 390 top kit?
How is the build comming?


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## parrisw (Dec 23, 2011)

Haven't done anything the last few days. Been busy with this little thing called Christmas.


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## Jacob J. (Dec 23, 2011)

There's currently no aftermarket 390 top end kit and
putting a 395 top end on a 385 case would be more work than its' 
worth. You'd be better off to stuff a 3120 top end on a 394/395 
(Which I've actually seen in person.)


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## parrisw (Dec 23, 2011)

I've been wondering if they'll ever come out with a BB390.


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## AUSSIE1 (Dec 24, 2011)

Doubt it Will, at least not for a good while. They don't even make an aftermarket piston, at least that I'm aware of.

Typed on my lappy from a hilltop while camping with a coupla bourbons up my belt!


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## Jacob J. (Dec 24, 2011)

parrisw said:


> I've been wondering if they'll ever come out with a BB390.



That would be interesting. They'd have to address the cylinder mounting issue though with the mounting ears that
were breaking off the earlier 390 cylinders.


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 24, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Sorry wont be me, *got too many of my own things to do right now*, and I'm not a sponsor of this site which you need to be to take work from here. Talk to one of the fine builders that are on this site that are sponsors.



LOLOL!!!! Ya,,, will I can see your still working on your truck!!!!


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## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> LOLOL!!!! Ya,,, will I can see your still working on your truck!!!!



Naa, truck is done for now. Just mounting the cylinder up in the lathe now. Man way harder to setup the cylinder this way for cutting squish bands. Pics to come soon.


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 24, 2011)

jropo said:


> Cheaper than a 395 by a thousand or so!
> How much to port? Ball park.



Some really excellent builders come to mind in no specific order

ECsaws Eric Copsey (Ohio) is running a discount for next years bookings

Bad Brad Snelling (Ohio) can make one sing a tune,,,,

Mastermind (Tennessee) Smarter than the average Chimp!!!

Simonizer (Campbell River BC/CA) Builds solid fallers work saws

Tree Sling'r (N. California) Builds a mean saw


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## RiverRat2 (Dec 24, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Naa, truck is done for now. Just mounting the cylinder up in the lathe now. Man way harder to setup the cylinder this way for cutting squish bands. Pics to come soon.



Ya I was just picking on ya,,, and Ya I was @ the shop yesterday with my Machinest mate coming up with Ideas,,, and drinking a few holiday whiskies,,,, LOL!!! Hmmm can you spell boring bar????


----------



## Jacob J. (Dec 24, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Ya I was just picking on ya,,, and Ya I was just @ the shop yesterday with my Machinest mate coming up with Ideas,,, and drinking a few holiday whiskies,,,, LOL!!! Hmmm can you spell boring bar????



Rick- I didn't picture you as the type to hang out at the boring bar. I figured you were more for the high-class joints.


----------



## SawGarage (Dec 24, 2011)

jropo said:


> EEEK Thats a New 346!



250-300 is a NEW 346??

what is your address, I'll paypal you for *TWO* just send them my way after christmas.








Merry Christmas, guys!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

Well, no guts no glory right? Took the plunge and the first squish band I cut was on a $300 390 Cylinder! LOL. Got er done though. 







Rick was this the kind of Boring Bar you were referring to? LOL


----------



## SawGarage (Dec 24, 2011)

Will,

how much did ya take out?


was the bore CL the same CL as the triangulation of the 4 bolt holes? 

IF 'NO' how did you figure?

either way,  !!


oh, don't break the setup down yet, my cyl's are on the way


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> Will,
> 
> how much did ya take out?
> 
> don't break the setup down yet, my cyl's are on the way



Started with .020", don't want to go nuts my first go round. I figured cutting the squish band will have more effect on compression then a popup.


----------



## SawGarage (Dec 24, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Started with .020", don't want to go nuts my first go round. I figured cutting the squish band will have more effect on compression then a popup.




Makes sense... course, ya gotta drop that cyl for it to do anything but LOWER compression  lol!


EDIT----> see my edited post above


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> Makes sense... course, ya gotta drop that cyl for it to do anything but LOWER compression  lol!
> 
> 
> EDIT----> see my edited post above



LOL, I kinda knew that. Just haven't machined the base yet.


----------



## jropo (Dec 24, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Some really excellent builders come to mind in no specific order
> 
> ECsaws Eric Copsey (Ohio) is running a discount for next years bookings
> 
> ...



Thank you! And your right they all do nice work!


----------



## jropo (Dec 24, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> 250-300 is a NEW 346??
> 
> what is your address, I'll paypal you for *TWO* just send them my way after christmas.
> 
> ...


lol  Merry X-Mas to yalls also!

OEM 390XP Jug and Slug kit= $300
Port job= $250-300

$300
+$250-$300
---------------
$550-$600+s/h = 346XP + A spare chain, bar oil, box o file's. 


I would imagine it is WELL worth it!:chainsawguy:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

jropo said:


> lol  Merry X-Mas to yalls also!
> 
> OEM 390XP Jug and Slug kit= $300
> Port job= $250-300
> ...



Just port your 385.


----------



## jropo (Dec 24, 2011)

Jacob J. said:


> There's currently no aftermarket 390 top end kit and
> putting a 395 top end on a 385 case would be more work than its'
> worth. You'd be better off to stuff a 3120 top end on a 394/395
> (Which I've actually seen in person.)





Kinda what I thought but ya never know.
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!:hmm3grin2orange:
Now your talking!!!!
Fast/slow?
rpms?


----------



## RiverRat2 (Dec 24, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Well, no guts no glory right? Took the plunge and the first squish band I cut was on a $300 390 Cylinder! LOL. Got er done though.
> 
> 
> Rick was this the kind of Boring Bar you were referring to? LOL



Yep sure is,,,,,,, Will,,, You do really nice work,,,


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Yep sure is,,,,,,, Will,,, You do really nice work,,,



Thanks Rick!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Doubt it Will, at least not for a good while. They don't even make an aftermarket piston, at least that I'm aware of.
> 
> Typed on my lappy from a hilltop while camping with a coupla bourbons up my belt!



Nice, wish I was with ya AL.

Oh, well. BB's are nice to play around with. But I do like having OEM to run.


----------



## jropo (Dec 24, 2011)

Nice work!
I was wondering what you meant about squish band now I see!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

jropo said:


> Nice work!
> I was wondering what you meant about squish band now I see!



Thanks.

Yes, squish band is the area of tight clearance between the piston and combustion chamber.


----------



## jropo (Dec 24, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Just port your 385.



I suppose I could do that, It would save me some, but I would always wonder about the ported 390.
Go big or go home. If I gonna do this might as well do it right!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

jropo said:


> I suppose I could do that, It would save me some, but I would always wonder about the ported 390.
> Go big or go home. If I gonna do this might as well do it right!



I agree, but if money is tight?? 

385's can be a real good runner ported, you'd be surprised.


----------



## RiverRat2 (Dec 24, 2011)

jropo said:


> Thank you! And your right they all do nice work!



Hey will is right,,,,, those 385's are no punks,,, they mod up very well,,, but if you have to have the 390 then save your money,,, get one and then get it modded,,,, you can always sell the 385 P/C and get about 1/2 of the oem 390 p/c cost back


----------



## jropo (Dec 24, 2011)

parrisw said:


> I agree, but if money is tight??
> 
> 385's can be a real good runner ported, you'd be surprised.



I seen the one that Brad did on You tube and it was Awesome! I hear its day/night.


----------



## jropo (Dec 24, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Hey will is right,,,,, those 385's are no punks,,, they mod up very well,,, but if you have to have the 390 then save your money,,, get one and then get it modded,,,, you can always sell the 385 P/C and get about 1/2 of the oem 390 p/c cost back



I might just do that! But I always save my old parts!
Some thing I'v learned while working on cars. If it goes up for sale it goes stock.


----------



## jropo (Dec 24, 2011)

I would really like to run the two of them stock side by side to really see what the difference is.
There is a reason why I went w/ a 385 vs a 390. I really wish I could find my 09' book w/ the prices in it but if I remember right the 390 was like a $100 more for like a .5hp and was a tad heavier.
Now I wish I got the 390 just because they killed the 385!


----------



## mdavlee (Dec 24, 2011)

Just work over the 385 cylinder. I don't think it's worth it to buy another cylinder and have it ported. A worked over 390 will flat out smoke a stock 394 in wood 25" or so. 

The work looks good Will. :msp_thumbup:


----------



## SawGarage (Dec 24, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> Will,
> 
> 
> 
> ...




??


----------



## stihl038x2 (Dec 24, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> Will,
> 
> how much did ya take out?
> 
> ...



Doesn't matter, he did it in the 4-jaw chuck.

Steve


----------



## blsnelling (Dec 24, 2011)

No way would I replace a good 385 cylinder with a 390. A modded 385 runs awesome!

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/zx5nWV9Stts?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


----------



## parrisw (Dec 24, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> Will,
> 
> how much did ya take out?
> 
> ...



Sorry guess I missed this post. 

I have no idea what your asking?


----------



## Logger4Life (Dec 24, 2011)

*390xp BB kit by Logger4Life*



parrisw said:


> I've been wondering if they'll ever come out with a BB390.



I need a few more odds and ends and I will be attempting this build and I will try and keep everyone posted. I am looking for some cosmetic parts yet such as recoil starter cover, clutch cover, top cover,high top air filter cover,and chain brake system. So if anyone knows where or who might have some of these parts please let me know thanks. Anyway I am over boring and honing a 390 55mm cylinder to 56mm raising the combustion chamber as much as I can and I am going to try and use a 2100 thin ring piston I have 2 of the thin ring OEM pistons and a Golf 2100 56mm x 1.2mm ring piston but I think that they will be to tall from the center line of the wrist pin to the top of the piston. so I will probably have to use a 395 piston which is only .5mm taller from wrist pin center line to the top of the piston. Know here lies the problem with the 395 piston choice I have heard from a very respected saw builder that a 395 OEM pistom will come apart at around 14,000 rpm's so the safe bet is to use a limited coil and the other problem is the case volume but I have to go for now you know X-mas stuff. but I will let everyone know what I find out . And Parrisw nice work keep it up , I am also building a 390xp right now the same way so good luck mine is a hardwood saw.


----------



## stihl038x2 (Dec 24, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Sorry guess I missed this post.
> 
> I have no idea what your asking?



He is saying CL = centreline

Steve


----------



## Meadow Beaver (Dec 24, 2011)

Just subscribing, don't know much about the 385 or 390. opcorn:


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 25, 2011)

Merry Xmas Will! Anxious to see that beast in action!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 25, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Merry Xmas Will! Anxious to see that beast in action!



Thanks Norm. Merry Christmas to you as well. 

It'll be a little while before it runs but hopefully not too long.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 25, 2011)

Nice! Looking forward to it.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 25, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Nice! Looking forward to it.



Yes, I've had a few frustrations and complications with machine the squish band, just working through that now, think I got it figured with the help from Eric (ECSaws)

Will


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 25, 2011)

Right on, I have never done a saw build, but alot of saw relate repair's, and maintenance. Pulled my hair out, and had quite a few headache's. Even had to walk away for day's or week's due to frustration. Even had some that the fix was right in front of me, and I was looking to hard.


----------



## SawGarage (Dec 25, 2011)

stihl038x2 said:


> Doesn't matter, he did it in the 4-jaw chuck.
> 
> Steve



yes, it was in the 4-jaw chuck, *BUT* the chuck was clamped onto a plate on the TOP on the cyl, that was attached by FOUR bolts to the CYL BASE...

there-in lies my question...

IF you draw triangulation lines from all the bolt holes, do they intersect the exact center of the bore... 


OR, Will, did you spin the top end until there was ZERO noticable out-of-round (if you will) spinning??

thanks! 


Jay


----------



## parrisw (Dec 25, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> yes, it was in the 4-jaw chuck, *BUT* the chuck was clamped onto a plate on the TOP on the cyl, that was attached by FOUR bolts to the CYL BASE...
> 
> there-in lies my question...
> 
> ...



Doesn't matter if the bolts center the cylinder or not. Its in a 4 Jaw, you adjust till you have 0 runout on the bore.


----------



## SawGarage (Dec 25, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Doesn't matter if the bolts center the cylinder or not. Its in a 4 Jaw, you adjust till you have 0 runout on the bore.



Ah...hmm... keep in mind, I have NOT run a lathe before...

so you adjust the jaws till you measure zero runout on the inside of the bore when turning the piece??

got it


----------



## parrisw (Dec 25, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> Ah...hmm... keep in mind, I have NOT run a lathe before...
> 
> so you adjust the jaws till you measure zero runout on the inside of the bore when turning the piece??
> 
> got it



Yes. 

The back plate isn't perfectly square either. This 4 jaw chuck, each jaw is independent of the others, so you must adjust each one individually, way better to use 4 jaw when machining already made parts like this.


----------



## SawGarage (Dec 25, 2011)

parrisw said:


> This 4 jaw chuck, each jaw is independent of the others, so you must adjust each one individually, way *better to use 4 jaw when machining already made parts like this.*



I guess is so you can adjust x axis and y axis when setting up the equipment, and if you know the exact center of the bore.. (not hard by knowing the dia, and triangulating to find CL) it's fairly quick after getting all the 'mechanicals' in place??


The mind-set is there, the hands-on as much ,well isn't...

cool... I want one


----------



## parrisw (Dec 25, 2011)

SawGarage said:


> I guess is so you can adjust x axis and y axis when setting up the equipment, and if you know the exact center of the bore.. (not hard by knowing the dia, and triangulating to find CL) it's fairly quick after getting all the 'mechanicals' in place??
> 
> 
> The mind-set is there, the hands-on as much ,well isn't...
> ...



No, you just bolt it to the plate, chuck the plate in the jaw, then you must set it square, meaning the bore parallel with the lathe, then use a dial indicator inside the bore, then turn the piece until the indicator reads 1/2thou or less runout.


----------



## Logger4Life (Dec 25, 2011)

when you machined the squish band did you have to angle the band toward the combustion chamber a few thousands and if so how much? I will be doing the same thing tomorrow. I know from measuring the stock band depth that it slowly increases in depth until the combustion chamber chamfer.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 25, 2011)

Logger4Life said:


> when you machined the squish band did you have to angle the band toward the combustion chamber a few thousands and if so how much? I will be doing the same thing tomorrow. I know from measuring the stock band depth that it slowly increases in depth until the combustion chamber chamfer.



2° taper is what I did.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 25, 2011)

Got the squish band all done. Finally, relieved now. Got in a little trouble for doing it on Christmas day though!! LOL


----------



## jropo (Dec 26, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Got the squish band all done. Finally, relieved now. Got in a little trouble for doing it on Christmas day though!! LOL



Nice work!
I got in trouble just for checking up on this tread on Christmas.
Is there any gains from smoothing out the dome at the top of the cyl.?


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 26, 2011)

Xmas or not, some thing's just can't wait Will!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 26, 2011)

jropo said:


> Nice work!
> I got in trouble just for checking up on this tread on Christmas.
> Is there any gains from smoothing out the dome at the top of the cyl.?



Yes, its gets done in conjunction with machining the base of the cylinder as well, smaller combustion chamber, higher compression.


----------



## tlandrum (Dec 26, 2011)

how much did you take out of it will? it doesnt look like you cut much out. id like to see how much you gain in compression per say 10 thou of material removed. how much time will you have in it doing it this way as opposed to just doing a pop up? im not trying to give you a hard time. just trying to see where the gains will out weigh the cost and extra time of it all


----------



## parrisw (Dec 26, 2011)

tlandrum2002 said:


> how much did you take out of it will? it doesnt look like you cut much out. id like to see how much you gain in compression per say 10 thou of material removed. how much time will you have in it doing it this way as opposed to just doing a pop up? im not trying to give you a hard time. just trying to see where the gains will out weigh the cost and extra time of it all



Hey, no problem at all. Time is a non issue for me since I enjoy doing this. If I had to get paid to do it, then ya, would be harder due to setup time, but I'll get faster. According to Eric he see's a 5-10 psi increase over a popup with same amount of material removed. I started with just going to remove .020, then I had to clean it up so its more likely in the .025 range maybe slightly more. I like trying different things, so its all good.

Time, yes this takes longer. Its my first time and it took me about an hour to cut the squish band the second time.


----------



## Outlaw5.0 (Dec 26, 2011)

How much is everyone cutting from the chamber?. My new 390Xp is at 150psi, the squish is .038-.039 currently. I thought of just cutting the base .015 and running a few tanks thru it, but I doubt it gain 25 psi or more.

My first MS460 I cut the squish band .010 and tightened the squish to .020, it ended up at 200 psi. Compression started at 160psi out of the box new.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 26, 2011)

Outlaw5.0 said:


> How much is everyone cutting from the chamber?. My new 390Xp is at 150psi, the squish is .038-.039 currently. I thought of just cutting the base .015 and running a few tanks thru it, but I doubt it gain 25 psi or more.
> 
> My first MS460 I cut the squish band .010 and tightened the squish to .020, it ended up at 200 psi. Compression started at 160psi out of the box new.



Are you sure youre 390 is at 38-39thou squish???? I've never seen one that high, all the ones I've done were under 30thou, this one is .028


----------



## Outlaw5.0 (Dec 26, 2011)

Checked it 3 times.


----------



## komatsuvarna (Dec 26, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Hey, no problem at all. Time is a non issue for me since I enjoy doing this. If I had to get paid to do it, then ya, would be harder due to setup time, but I'll get faster. According to Eric he see's a 5-10 psi increase over a popup with same amount of material removed. I started with just going to remove .020, then I had to clean it up so its more likely in the .025 range maybe slightly more. I like trying different things, so its all good.
> 
> Time, yes this takes longer. Its my first time and it took me about an hour to cut the squish band the second time.



JMO, I think its worth the time just for the fact that later on down the road anybody can put a new Piston in if needed. 2 of my saws have popups now, but I think in the future Ill be sending them off to be cut on. Probably not that big of a deal if ya have the stuff to do it, But when Im old and grey, I dunno that I want to trying to find someone to cut me a piston for a 372 I ported 25 years ago .....just saying....:msp_smile:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 26, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> JMO, I think its worth the time just for the fact that later on down the road anybody can put a new Piston in if needed. 2 of my saws have popups now, but I think in the future Ill be sending them off to be cut on. Probably not that big of a deal if ya have the stuff to do it, But when Im old and grey, I dunno that I want to trying to find someone to cut me a piston for a 372 I ported 25 years ago .....just saying....:msp_smile:



Yep. Plus I heard the saw likes it without a popup, so I'm going to find out. I'll be doing a 372 next, since I'm pretty familiar with those I'll have a better idea on how well it works, and I have a pretty good running 372 to compare it to.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 26, 2011)

Looking good Will Carry on!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 26, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Looking good Will Carry on!



Soon!!


----------



## jropo (Dec 27, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Are you sure youre 390 is at 38-39thou squish???? I've never seen one that high, all the ones I've done were under 30thou, this one is .028



What's the lowest?


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 27, 2011)

Well anticipated, the thing I like about you Will you take your time, and don't get in a hurry. That's qaulity work my friend! I would not have a problem with you working on any one of my saw's!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

jropo said:


> What's the lowest?



All the ones I've done have been real close around .028 give or take a thou or 2 range. I've done machine work on 4 or 5 other 390's. 



NORMZILLA44 said:


> Well anticipated, the thing I like about you Will you take your time, and don't get in a hurry. That's qaulity work my friend! I would not have a problem with you working on any one of my saw's!



Thanks Norm.

Ya, I don't get in a panic about most things. The only time I try to be faster is when working on someone else's saw.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 27, 2011)

Good stuff my friend!


----------



## Outlaw5.0 (Dec 27, 2011)

Well I will try another caliper since my numbers are off in left field.


----------



## CJ1 (Dec 27, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> JMO, I think its worth the time just for the fact that later on down the road anybody can put a new Piston in if needed. 2 of my saws have popups now, but I think in the future Ill be sending them off to be cut on. Probably not that big of a deal if ya have the stuff to do it, But when Im old and grey, I dunno that I want to trying to find someone to cut me a piston for a 372 I ported 25 years ago .....just saying....:msp_smile:



I agree 100%. That is why I want a stock piston so it can be replaced without any trouble. And there are advantages to a flat top also. CJ


----------



## Outlaw5.0 (Dec 27, 2011)

If you have a pop-up piston, and use the saw for a living, I highly suggest keeping a machined spare piston on hand.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

Outlaw5.0 said:


> Well I will try another caliper since my numbers are off in left field.



Ya, I just thought it was odd is all. I guess its possible though.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

Outlaw5.0 said:


> If you have a pop-up piston, and use the saw for a living, I highly suggest keep a machined spare piston on hand.



Good idea!


----------



## tlandrum (Dec 27, 2011)

99% of the time when i lose a top end the cylinder is toast from shrapnal. i have never burned up a saw from an air leak or straight gas. its usually mechanical failure and the p/c are toast. so id need a cylinder for that spare piston.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

tlandrum2002 said:


> 99% of the time when i lose a top end the cylinder is toast from shrapnal. i have never burned up a saw from an air leak or straight gas. its usually mechanical failure and the p/c are toast. so id need a cylinder for that spare piston.



Yup, that can happen too. But I've also done many that only need a piston.


----------



## mdavlee (Dec 27, 2011)

The 390s I checked were .024-.028" on squish without machine work. You might have got one that has real high squish and could really benefit from tightening. I had one with the base machined that was around 175-180 on compression. The squish was at .020" on that one.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

mdavlee said:


> The 390s I checked were .024-.028" on squish without machine work. You might have got one that has real high squish and could really benefit from tightening. I had one with the base machined that was around 175-180 on compression. The squish was at .020" on that one.



Wow, that's pretty good, just for a jug drop. Wonder what mine will be at with a cut combustion chamber and .020" squish. Don't want it too high.


----------



## mdavlee (Dec 27, 2011)

Yeah I think it will put it up pretty good with that amount of drop. I don't know what they will hit with popups. I don't remember what the one was at that had the machine work done to it. I know I dropped a 7900 down about .013" and gained 15 lbs.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

mdavlee said:


> Yeah I think it will put it up pretty good with that amount of drop. I don't know what they will hit with popups. I don't remember what the one was at that had the machine work done to it. I know I dropped a 7900 down about .013" and gained 15 lbs.



I did a popup on one once for a guy and he said it hit 195psi.


----------



## mdavlee (Dec 27, 2011)

I would imagine close to 200 lbs would be right on with a popup.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

mdavlee said:


> I would imagine close to 200 lbs would be right on with a popup.



Yikes. gona sound like a dirtbike!


----------



## mdavlee (Dec 27, 2011)

The last one I had with a wrap handle had the most compression. It did sound a little different and it's one of the saws I used the decomp on.


----------



## wyk (Dec 27, 2011)

Outlaw5.0 said:


> If you have a pop-up piston, and use the saw for a living, I highly suggest keeping a machined spare piston on hand.



Most of us whom use saws for a living would have a couple of other saws on hand... I don't know many that swap out pistons in the field.


----------



## Metals406 (Dec 27, 2011)

Subbing. . . opcorn:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

Machine work is all done. Just did the cyl base this eve. Squish now is at .023, it ended up there, so I figured I'd leave it there, don't want compression to get out of hand.

Post machine work numbers.

EX 97.5atdc 165dur

Intake closes 76.5ftdc 153dur

Transfers 121atdc

Blowdown 23.5

My thoughts, ex will stay were it is, just widen.

Intake maybe bring up to 155-156dur close to 80ftdc

Transfer maybe raise up to 119?? little unsure about the transfers still.

that would leave 21.5blowdown


----------



## RiverRat2 (Dec 27, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Machine work is all done. Just did the cyl base this eve. Squish now is at .023, it ended up there, so I figured I'd leave it there, don't want compression to get out of hand.




Scccccchweeeeeeet,,,, Again very nice work William cant wait to see the vids of this one slinging chips!!!!!


----------



## mdavlee (Dec 27, 2011)

Looks good Will. I would leave the intake where it is for now. You might want to drop the cylinder some more. :cool2:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> Scccccchweeeeeeet,,,, Again very nice work William cant wait to see the vids of this one slinging chips!!!!!



Thanks!! I can't wait either!



mdavlee said:


> Looks good Will. I would leave the intake where it is for now. You might want to drop the cylinder some more. :cool2:



Thanks ya, good idea! But I can't imagine that .003 will make much difference.


----------



## wigglesworth (Dec 27, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Machine work is all done. Just did the cyl base this eve. Squish now is at .023, it ended up there, so I figured I'd leave it there, don't want compression to get out of hand.
> 
> Post machine work numbers.
> 
> ...



I am really digging them numbers. Strikingly similar to one of my favorite "big" saws, except of course the 390 has quad transfer ports. 

If it were mine, I wouldn't change nothin till I ran it.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 27, 2011)

Geeze, I had to do some catching up, you have been busy Will.:msp_thumbup:


----------



## mdavlee (Dec 27, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Thanks!! I can't wait either!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks ya, good idea! But I can't imagine that .003 will make much difference.



Yeah true. I wonder how the compression will be there? If it's not too high you could drop the jug some more and get more intake and lower the exhaust to around 100°. Just thinking here, I haven't got to try it yet myself so it may have plenty of compression where it's at and not want more.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

wigglesworth said:


> I am really digging them numbers. Strikingly similar to one of my favorite "big" saws, except of course the 390 has quad transfer ports.
> 
> If it were mine, I wouldn't change nothin till I ran it.



Ya, I was thinking that. But as you see my changes were minor. But by all means wouldn't be a big deal to put it together without changes, just widen the ports.



mdavlee said:


> Yeah true. I wonder how the compression will be there? If it's not too high you could drop the jug some more and get more intake and lower the exhaust to around 100°. Just thinking here, I haven't got to try it yet myself so it may have plenty of compression where it's at and not want more.



I'm guessing it'll be fairly stout. We'll see.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 27, 2011)

Man the compression talk, you got me thinking of pulling over the 288's. Im sure the 390's are more starter friendly. What is the 390 stock PSI?


----------



## parrisw (Dec 27, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Man the compression talk, you got me thinking of pulling over the 288's. Im sure the 390's are more starter friendly. What is the 390 stock PSI?



I'm not sure. I'm guessing at least 160psi, maybe a little more.


----------



## RiverRat2 (Dec 27, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Ya, I was thinking that. But as you see my changes were minor. But by all means wouldn't be a big deal to put it together without changes, just widen the ports.
> 
> 
> 
> *I'm guessing it'll be fairly stout.* We'll see.



If I was a bettin man I'day it will come in about 185,,, In my book 175-185 is perfect for a good work saw,,,,

will,,,, JFTR,,,,,,, this aint botherin ya letting all of us hooligans in on yer machining techniques????


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 27, 2011)

I doubt it, he probably wouldn't mind if we came over, and changed all the setting's, and adjustment's on his machining tool's either. That would just make thing's interesting.otstir:


----------



## jropo (Dec 27, 2011)

parrisw said:


> I'm not sure. I'm guessing at least 160psi, maybe a little more.



My stock 2yr old 385 pumped up to 150psi cold @ room temp.


----------



## tlandrum (Dec 27, 2011)

husky saws seem to be a bit lower compression saws than what one thinks they would be. some of them are hard to get compression out of


----------



## parrisw (Dec 28, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> If I was a bettin man I'day it will come in about 185,,, In my book 175-185 is perfect for a good work saw,,,,
> 
> will,,,, JFTR,,,,,,, this aint botherin ya letting all of us hooligans in on yer machining techniques????



Nope never cared, I enjoy showing this stuff.



NORMZILLA44 said:


> I doubt it, he probably wouldn't mind if we came over, and changed all the setting's, and adjustment's on his machining tool's either. That would just make thing's interesting.otstir:



Come over anytime! Just don't screw up my stuff! LOL


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 28, 2011)

LOL! Thought you would like that little buddy! The one husky that is a surprise on the comp being so high though is the 288.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 28, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> LOL! Thought you would like that little buddy! The one husky that is a surprise on the comp being so high though is the 288.



288's are nice! I've had a few with high comp. My 395 is at 195, it thumps at idle.


----------



## Logger4Life (Dec 28, 2011)

Nice work Will I'am jealous I have had some trouble this week just had to have me best friend put down yesterday my 3yr old Jack Russels Kiddneys shut down not a good week . But I am trying to completee to same exact build . was wondering how much you took off the base and out of the combustion chamber you took about .025 right I kind of got confused in your post about what the final # was. This is ironic be cause I biult a Makita 6401 with a MCW BB kit at the same time as you also it came out very well I put the HD -12 Walbro on it from a 372 and the HD filter kit it was a HD rental saw beforehand by far the cheapest best running saw per $ I have ever built it was impressive . I also like the 681 Solo's and my other 2 new 7900 that are all ported.
Thanks for your time and thanks for the help. JAY


----------



## Outlaw5.0 (Dec 28, 2011)

My new out of the box 390xp pumped 150 psi. Its possible a broken in one will see 160 psi.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 28, 2011)

Logger4Life said:


> Nice work Will I'am jealous I have had some trouble this week just had to have me best friend put down yesterday my 3yr old Jack Russels Kiddneys shut down not a good week . But I am trying to completee to same exact build . was wondering how much you took off the base and out of the combustion chamber you took about .025 right I kind of got confused in your post about what the final # was. This is ironic be cause I biult a Makita 6401 with a MCW BB kit at the same time as you also it came out very well I put the HD -12 Walbro on it from a 372 and the HD filter kit it was a HD rental saw beforehand by far the cheapest best running saw per $ I have ever built it was impressive . I also like the 681 Solo's and my other 2 new 7900 that are all ported.
> Thanks for your time and thanks for the help. JAY



Well I kinda screwed up a little, started with .020, then had to go back to clean up a mistake, and took about another .005. I would not reccomend going by my measurements, check you're squish and go from there. The mathe is simple. Squish was at .028 + .025 out of chamber, now that leaves .053 squish, now machine the correct amount off the base to achieve the desired squish.


----------



## RiverRat2 (Dec 28, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Well I kinda screwed up a little, started with .020, then had to go back to clean up a mistake, and took about another .005. I would not reccomend going by my measurements, check you're squish and go from there. The mathe is simple. Squish was at .028 + .025 out of chamber, now that leaves .053 squish, now machine the correct amount off the base to achieve the desired squish.



So whats the hold up????:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 28, 2011)

RiverRat2 said:


> So whats the hold up????:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:



LOL, allot where should I begin!


----------



## tree monkey (Dec 29, 2011)

2 degree angle? all the way to the edge? why?


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

tree monkey said:


> 2 degree angle? all the way to the edge? why?



Why not?


----------



## tree monkey (Dec 29, 2011)

i wanted to know if you know why? it's been talked about here before. i understand what it does. but how did you come up with 2 degree


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

I did some searching and came up with 1-2° angle for 2 stroke squish bands. And as well I asked Eric and he cuts his at 2°, so that's why I did it, not based on any of my own experience, this is all new to me, I think it has to do with forcing fuel air to the center.


----------



## tree monkey (Dec 29, 2011)

what i've read says it depends on bore stroke and width of the band. traped comp also


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

tree monkey said:


> what i've read says it depends on bore stroke and width of the band. traped comp also



I'm sure there are many variables. It just makes sense to me to have it tapered, if it were flat or tapered the other way, unburned fuel/air could get trapped in the squish area. 

It would also depend on if the piston is domed or not, if you had a domed piston, you'd want the taper 2° more then the dome taper, now I know not many saws had domed pistons, just something to think about.


----------



## tree monkey (Dec 29, 2011)

tw got into the subject pretty deep some time ago. good read if you can find it


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

tree monkey said:


> tw got into the subject pretty deep some time ago. good read if you can find it



Ya. I miss having him around. He's a good dude, was always willing to help. 

Did he post about it here on AS, or on the other site that's now gone?


----------



## tree monkey (Dec 29, 2011)

i think here


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

tree monkey said:


> i think here



Cool. A searching I will go.


----------



## jropo (Dec 29, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Machine work is all done. Just did the cyl base this eve. Squish now is at .023, it ended up there, so I figured I'd leave it there, don't want compression to get out of hand.
> 
> Post machine work numbers.
> 
> ...



Now the Million Dollar question is how do you this w/o a lathe?


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

jropo said:


> Now the Million Dollar question is how do you this w/o a lathe?



You don't.


----------



## Meadow Beaver (Dec 29, 2011)

parrisw said:


> You don't.



You do, if you have someone make the tools for you you can. Hell, I've cut squish bands and cylinder bases with sand paper and elbow grease.


----------



## komatsuvarna (Dec 29, 2011)

Meadow Beaver said:


> You do, if you have someone make the tools for you you can. Hell, I've cut squish bands and cylinder bases with sand paper and elbow grease.



:monkey:


----------



## komatsuvarna (Dec 29, 2011)

Machine work turned out real nice Will. Makes me wanna lathe...maybe one day.:smile2:

You decide what timing you were going to shoot for yet?


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

Meadow Beaver said:


> You do, if you have someone make the tools for you you can. Hell, I've cut squish bands and cylinder bases with sand paper and elbow grease.



Too each their own, I would never do it that way. especially on Husky cylinder where the bottom protrudes into the case, I've seen people cut holes in wood that the cylinder fits in and put sand paper around the hole and sand away. Sorry but I like things accurate.



komatsuvarna said:


> Machine work turned out real nice Will. Makes me wanna lathe...maybe one day.:smile2:
> 
> You decide what timing you were going to shoot for yet?



Don't know. Was thinking of leaving it alone and see how it runs, ex will stay the same for sure, if anything the intake can come down a little, and transfers up 2°, but its so close now, I may just leave it and try it, just widen all the ports though.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Dec 29, 2011)

Good job I to am impressed with your machine work Will!


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Good job I to am impressed with your machine work Will!



Thanks Norm. It's fun and frustrating at times. I love learning new things, especially mechanical things such as this.

My grandma once told me when I was young, that I have a very mechanical mind, if that makes sense.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2011)

komatsuvarna said:


> Machine work turned out real nice Will. Makes me wanna lathe...maybe one day.:smile2:
> 
> You decide what timing you were going to shoot for yet?



Eric also helped me do a little brainstorming about numbers on this. And its real close to what we talked about. 

Its easy to go back in for more, but its all but impossible to put it back.


----------



## ECsaws (Dec 30, 2011)

parrisw said:


> Eric also helped me do a little brainstorming about numbers on this. And its real close to what we talked about.
> 
> Its easy to go back in for more, but its all but impossible to put it back.



Will "I" would much rather go back in a new modal saw 3-4 times and make adjustments that go crazey the 1st time and wonder what it may have ran like "IF" I had done this.
I have a 2188 on its way so we can compare notes later on if you like.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 30, 2011)

ECsaws said:


> Will "I" would much rather go back in a new modal saw 3-4 times and make adjustments that go crazey the 1st time and wonder what it may have ran like "IF" I had done this.
> I have a 2188 on its way so we can compare notes later on if you like.



I agree, that sounds real good Eric.

Thanks

Will


----------



## Meadow Beaver (Jan 2, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Too each their own, I would never do it that way. especially on Husky cylinder where the bottom protrudes into the case, I've seen people cut holes in wood that the cylinder fits in and put sand paper around the hole and sand away. Sorry but I like things accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know. Was thinking of leaving it alone and see how it runs, ex will stay the same for sure, if anything the intake can come down a little, and transfers up 2°, but its so close now, I may just leave it and try it, just widen all the ports though.



It's accurate enough, I've done it twice and it took me 5 hours each time. :eek2:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 2, 2012)

Meadow Beaver said:


> It's accurate enough, I've done it twice and it took me 5 hours each time. :eek2:



I don't have enough patience.


----------



## komatsuvarna (Jan 2, 2012)

parrisw said:


> I've seen people cut holes in wood that the cylinder fits in and put sand paper around the hole and sand away. Sorry, but I like things accurate.



Are you talking about a wooden mandrel, or something else Will? Im trying to envision it, but ......:msp_confused:


----------



## mdavlee (Jan 2, 2012)

Cut a hole in a piece of wood or tile or something like that where the piece that protrudes down into the base will slide down in and sand paper can be mounted down.


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 2, 2012)

or in the case for you and durand you can make a short trip to your buddies saw shop and have him do it while you wait. much more precise than doing it by hand. lol


----------



## komatsuvarna (Jan 2, 2012)

Oh OK, Youns talking about the base, not the chamber. Iz lost for a minute....again lol.

Terry, That piston made almost 190 psi lol.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 2, 2012)

How's it coming along Will?


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 2, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> Oh OK, Youns talking about the base, not the chamber. Iz lost for a minute....again lol.
> 
> Terry, That piston made almost 190 psi lol.



itll hit over 200 when the rings seal. no need for the ring polishing for more compression huh


----------



## parrisw (Jan 2, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> How's it coming along Will?



MEH, been sick for the past few days. All I've done is think about it.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 2, 2012)

Sorry to hear that, and that sh## is going around here too! I know I would be the same way, that saw would be the only thing on my mind!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 2, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Sorry to hear that, and that sh## is going around here too! I know I would be the same way, that saw would be the only thing on my mind!



Ya it sucks. Had it planned for my kids to go spend the night at my parents on New Years Eve, so me and the good wife could go do something, they still went, all I did was lay on the couch feeling sorry for myself. I had 0 energy today, actually right now I'm feeling a little better, still all stuffed up though.


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 2, 2012)

I'm fighting my second cold already. The first one only lasted about a month!


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 2, 2012)

Just shook one off this weekend, felt it coming on so I took ziacam that stuff work's wonders.


----------



## husq2100 (Jan 2, 2012)

Logger4Life said:


> ................. Anyway I am over boring and honing a 390 55mm cylinder to 56mm raising the combustion chamber as much as I can and I am going to try and use a 2100 thin ring piston..............




I doubt this is going to work for you...you will have to remove all the Nikasal to get it to 56mm and then all you have is aluminium....no good for running a cylinder on. Only way to do it is to over bore it and have it replated like the race guys do.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 2, 2012)

for gods sakes mn stay off the computer, i don't need another virus:computer2:virus:computer2:virus:computer2:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 2, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> I'm fighting my second cold already. The first one only lasted about a month!



Yup same here Brad. 



NORMZILLA44 said:


> Just shook one off this weekend, felt it coming on so I took ziacam that stuff work's wonders.



What's ziacam? guess I could google it eh?



tree monkey said:


> for gods sakes mn stay off the computer, i don't need another virus:computer2:virus:computer2:virus:computer2:



LOL!


----------



## Jacob J. (Jan 3, 2012)

parrisw said:


> What's ziacam? guess I could google it eh?



Zicam. It's a nasal spray with Zinc in it. It's supposed to ward off colds when you feel one coming on. 
It's thought that the Zinc breaks the peptide bonds so that the Rhinovirus can't get established.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 3, 2012)

Jacob J. said:


> Zicam. It's a nasal spray with Zinc in it. It's supposed to ward off colds when you feel one coming on.
> It's thought that the Zinc breaks the peptide bonds so that the Rhinovirus can't get established.



HUU, never heard of it. Sounds interesting. Wonder if I can buy it here in Canuckastan.


----------



## Jacob J. (Jan 3, 2012)

Zinc lozenges will help after a cold is established. I think you want the ones with vitamin C and magnesium.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 3, 2012)

Jacob J. said:


> Zinc lozenges will help after a cold is established. I think you want the ones with vitamin C and magnesium.



Cool, thanks.


----------



## jropo (Jan 3, 2012)

parrisw said:


> MEH, been sick for the past few days. All I've done is think about it.



So thats where you were, I thought you were gonna leave us hanging!
Getting sick stinks!! :msp_thumbdn:
Good to see this thread on page 1 again!! 
I wanna see this thing in some WOOD!!!!! :msp_w00t:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 3, 2012)

jropo said:


> So thats where you were, I thought you were gonna leave us hanging!
> Getting sick stinks!! :msp_thumbdn:
> Good to see this thread on page 1 again!!
> I wanna see this thing in some WOOD!!!!! :msp_w00t:



Ya you and me both! I'm still waiting on parts anyway, so I'm in no rush to rush the port work. It will probably take me a few evenings to do the port work, I think I'll start tomorrow, I'm feeling a little better and kids are back in school tomorrow, and I'm not working tomorrow, so should be able to get a bunch of work done.


----------



## jropo (Jan 3, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Ya you and me both! I'm still waiting on parts anyway, so I'm in no rush to rush the port work. It will probably take me a few evenings to do the port work, I think I'll start tomorrow, I'm feeling a little better and kids are back in school tomorrow, and I'm not working tomorrow, so should be able to get a bunch of work done.



Waiting for parts also stinks!!!
Take your time and do it right!!!
Good deal! Mine also go back to school this week.
I hoping to get some work done also, ever since this tread, and the pop-up started you guys have made me want to try some of these performance mods.
Due to the fact that my garage is full of sleds, has no heat, and leaks I'v decided to make a shop in my attic to my engine work/painting/ect. in. Complete w/ piped in air and exhaust fan. I'm really excited about it! One project at a time, no messes!
The first thing I want to do is tear down my parts "Crapsman" and see what I can do w/ it. I would like to do my 170 due to the fact that all it needs right now to run is a coil, where the parts saw is missing things, and I think the topend melted down.

So once again AS has further influnced me.


----------



## MacLaren (Jan 3, 2012)

Jacob J. said:


> Zinc lozenges will help after a cold is established. I think you want the ones with vitamin C and magnesium.



The best thing Ive ever taken for a cold. But like ya say, youve got to start the lozenges 1st signs of the cold. They have stopped colds dead in their tracks for me. Cold Eze, but i usually get the generic store brand. Same thing.


----------



## jropo (Jan 3, 2012)

If Nyqul don't work I go see the Doc. Antibiotics week later 10' tall bulletproof.


----------



## MacLaren (Jan 3, 2012)

jropo said:


> If Nyqul don't work I go see the Doc. Antibiotics week later 10' tall bulletproof.



Like they say, " a week with medicine, 7 days without".(the common cold) Those zinc lozenges will stop it for me though.


----------



## jropo (Jan 3, 2012)

Might have too try them next time!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 3, 2012)

MacLaren said:


> The best thing Ive ever taken for a cold. But like ya say, youve got to start the lozenges 1st signs of the cold. They have stopped colds dead in their tracks for me. Cold Eze, but i usually get the generic store brand. Same thing.



I did a search for this Zinc stuff, and clicked on the first link, and they said there is a possibility for the spray to cause loss of smell. No thanks, and to not take the spray or lozenges for more then 5 day max or can cause adverse side effects. I'd rather suffer for a few extra days then have any chance at that stuff.


----------



## MacLaren (Jan 3, 2012)

parrisw said:


> I did a search for this Zinc stuff, and clicked on the first link, and they said there is a possibility for the spray to cause loss of smell. No thanks, and to not take the spray or lozenges for more then 5 day max or can cause adverse side effects. I'd rather suffer for a few extra days then have any chance at that stuff.



Ive took them about 2 days max. But go ahead and suffer lol........I dont use the spray, nor did i mention it.
Maybee i came off a little strong there......The point is to take the lozenges at 1st sign of a cold. It takes about 2-3 days max for my symptoms to go away. Now, if a man already has a cold then naturally they wont work. Just take the lozenges @ 1st symptoms.
Let me clarify again, ...if a man already has a cold they will not knock it out completely, but they will help the symptoms. Its the best stuff ive ever taken.


----------



## komatsuvarna (Jan 3, 2012)

Moonshine works well for me, of-course the cold usually turns into a bellyache!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 3, 2012)

MacLaren said:


> Ive took them about 2 days max. But go ahead and suffer lol........I dont use the spray, nor did i mention it.
> Maybee i came off a little strong there......The point is to take the lozenges at 1st sign of a cold. It takes about 2-3 days max for my symptoms to go away. Now, if a man already has a cold then naturally they wont work. Just take the lozenges @ 1st symptoms.
> Let me clarify again, ...if a man already has a cold they will not knock it out completely, but they will help the symptoms. Its the best stuff ive ever taken.



Sorry, I wasn't targeting you particular, just that your post was the last one with zinc mentioned so I quoted that one, LOL. I'm not by any means judging anybody for what they do with their own body/health, I'm just saying what I read.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 3, 2012)

when the side effect is worse then the illness, no thanks. 

like may cause anal leakage:msp_scared:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 3, 2012)

Hmm, going form porting a 390 to cold remedy? Could this get the award for all time thread derail? LOL


----------



## komatsuvarna (Jan 3, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> when the side effect is worse then the illness, no thanks.
> 
> *like may cause anal leakage*:msp_scared:





Haha,,, I *was* eating lunch!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 3, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> when the side effect is worse then the illness, no thanks.
> 
> like may cause anal leakage:msp_scared:



ha ha ha. I've heard that one. "Side effects may include slight anal leakage" ?????????????????????? WTF Who would take that chit.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 3, 2012)

is talking about exhaust leakage on topic?


----------



## MacLaren (Jan 3, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Sorry, I wasn't targeting you particular, just that your post was the last one with zinc mentioned so I quoted that one, LOL. I'm not by any means judging anybody for what they do with their own body/health, I'm just saying what I read.



Cool. I just talked to my wife. She's a Pharmacist. She said theres really no adverse effects at all to the zinc lozenges. Said most people wouldnt take them 5 days in a row anyways. Side effects are much worse in say vics dayquil and other conventional cold meds then they are in zinc. She did say the same thing about the zinc spray though. Not tryin to be smart or anything Will, its just funny at what they have to put on any type of medicine now a days for side effects. So, dont be afraid to take the lozenges when ya get a sign of a cold. They really help.


----------



## MacLaren (Jan 3, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> is talking about exhaust leakage on topic?



LOL, yes, thats one of the side effects of moonshine i believe.....I remember when i worked for the police dept., me and my partner confisctated a quart of that damn stuff one night.....Ill never for get it was peach flavored. Well the next day whe off work we decided to tye into it. My God, I thought i was gonna die all night long. That stuff can kill a man lol......I did taste the peach flavor after a few sips though....:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 5, 2012)

Well finally got to start on porting tonight. Just got a little done, intake and ex widened, still need to do some blending and open up the ports some more, and work the transfers.


----------



## jropo (Jan 5, 2012)

Well good!
I thought this was a :deadhorse:
Thanks for the update!


----------



## jropo (Jan 5, 2012)

P.S. I don't know how you did it but you got me sick...:msp_thumbdn:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 6, 2012)

jropo said:


> P.S. I don't know how you did it but you got me sick...:msp_thumbdn:



LOL, sorry about that.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 6, 2012)

Got a bunch of porting done tonight. Int and EX is mostly done, just need to smooth out now.

Pay no attention to the uppers their not done yet.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 6, 2012)

Nice work Will


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 6, 2012)

Nice clean work Will.


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 6, 2012)

Looking good Will.


----------



## jropo (Jan 6, 2012)

Well Done!!!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 6, 2012)

Thanks guys. Trying to do a nice job on this one.


----------



## jropo (Jan 7, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Thanks guys. Trying to do a nice job on this one.



Yup 
So far so good! Nice pix!


----------



## SawGarage (Jan 7, 2012)

Quality work, Will...


----------



## parrisw (Jan 7, 2012)

SawGarage said:


> Quality work, Will...



Thanks Jay, will post up some more pics when its all done, still got to make stuff a little smoother.


----------



## SawGarage (Jan 7, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Thanks Jay, will post up some more pics when its all done, still got to make stuff a little smoother.



and there-in lies the part that takes the longest, and the most tedious... trying to get things blended nice, yet not take out 'more' material.


I'm excited to see where it ends up.... I have a saw i'd like to do _someday _


----------



## parrisw (Jan 7, 2012)

SawGarage said:


> and there-in lies the part that takes the longest, and the most tedious... trying to get things blended nice, yet not take out 'more' material.
> 
> 
> I'm excited to see where it ends up.... I have a saw i'd like to do _someday _



Ya it does. Honestly most of the saws I do I leave it like I have it here, just want to go the extra mile on this one.


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Jan 7, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Got a bunch of porting done tonight.




Looks like you've over ran your marks to me!......Hahahahahaha!


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Degreed the saw too, stock, base gasket in. Not the normal Husky numbers I'm used to.
> 
> Ex- 170° duration, 95° ATDC
> 
> ...





parrisw said:


> Post machine work numbers.
> 
> EX 97.5atdc 165dur
> 
> ...





mdavlee said:


> Looks good Will. I would leave the intake where it is for now. You might want to drop the cylinder some more. :cool2:





wigglesworth said:


> I am really digging them numbers. Strikingly similar to one of my favorite "big" saws, except of course the 390 has quad transfer ports.
> 
> If it were mine, I wouldn't change nothin till I ran it.



I've been trying a lower intake duration than I've used in the past Will. I'm in no way saying that this is the way to go or even that it helps at this point, but my thinking is along these lines....

We talk a lot about intake opening point, but what about the relationship between intake closing and transfer opening? We think about the blowdown time, but never do we mention the amount of time that crankcase pressure is building between intake closing and transfer opening. 

I'm seeing a pattern based on the size of the crankcase and this number. As we all have found, some saws "like" more blowdown....some "like" less. I'm thinking that this is because of crankcase volume vs displacement. 

The lower the intake and the higher the transfers the less time the pressure builds in the crankcase, so by leaving the intake as is and just raising the transfers.........????

Keep in mind that all this is just me thinking out loud, but I wouldn't lower that intake until I saw how well it pulled a long bar. Sure a high revving saw is a hoot to run, but a saw that has a butt load of torque is a fine thing.

Sorry for the long winded derail.....carry on.


----------



## SawGarage (Jan 7, 2012)

Randy,

this is always a thought in my mind... what makes the most sense for disp vs. CC volume... I know there are programs out there that help with sizing the crankcase (when modifying it makes sense...) and what changes can be incorporated together...

I wonder how most measure the CC volume... fill the CC with a metered amount of oil?



more reading is required, I guess..


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 7, 2012)

SawGarage said:


> Randy,
> 
> this is always a thought in my mind... what makes the most sense for disp vs. CC volume... I know there are programs out there that help with sizing the crankcase (when modifying it makes sense...) and what changes can be incorporated together...
> 
> ...



All I know for sure is this. The more I learn......the more I need to know. :msp_sad:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 7, 2012)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> Looks like you've over ran your marks to me!......Hahahahahaha!



Good thing I always mark conservatively, so I decided to go a little further. Don't worry Dennis I measured. 

Oh you are very observant! Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha


----------



## parrisw (Jan 7, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> I've been trying a lower intake duration than I've used in the past Will. I'm in no way saying that this is the way to go or even that it helps at this point, but my thinking is along these lines....
> 
> We talk a lot about intake opening point, but what about the relationship between intake closing and transfer opening? We think about the blowdown time, but never do we mention the amount of time that crankcase pressure is building between intake closing and transfer opening.
> 
> ...



I'm getting what you're puttin down randy. Makes sense.


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Jan 7, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Good thing I always mark conservatively, so I decided to go a little further. Don't worry Dennis I measured.
> 
> Oh you are very observant! Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha




That's right Willie, I figured you left some tolerance......besides, we'd have to listen to a big crying if you ever traveled to Freeport City!......Hahahahahahaha!


----------



## logger 12345 (Jan 7, 2012)

nice saw,nice build,best of luck with it!!!
must be heavy beast when it's all set to go...


----------



## parrisw (Jan 7, 2012)

Dennis Cahoon said:


> That's right Willie, I figured you left some tolerance......besides, we'd have to listen to a big crying if you ever traveled to Freeport City!......Hahahahahahaha!



LOL, yup, I've done that on a 395, it sucked but fixed it with a 2101 piston.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 7, 2012)

logger 12345 said:


> nice saw,nice build,best of luck with it!!!
> must be heavy beast when it's all set to go...



Thanks. 

Supposed to be not too bad in weight for a 90cc saw.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 9, 2012)

Was powering through some work on this saw today, then got a call from the school, had to go pick up one of my daughters, not feeling well, so had to stop work, oh well, the joys of parenting.

Final smoothing with 320.







Polished up the port a little.











Polished the piston crown.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 9, 2012)

Carb through the USC, man I love this thing.












And that's it for today folks. Not doing anymore to the cylinder, going to run it now and see what happens.


----------



## jropo (Jan 9, 2012)

Once again, Nice work!

Why does that piston look like a Popup?


----------



## jropo (Jan 9, 2012)

P.s. Good luck on the first fire!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 9, 2012)

jropo said:


> Once again, Nice work!
> 
> Why does that piston look like a Popup?



Thanks.

Now that you mention it, it does look like a domed piston doesn't it. Its not, I think its just the way the light is reflecting off of it.


----------



## RiverRat2 (Jan 9, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Now that you mention it, it does look like a domed piston doesn't it. Its not, I think its just the way the light is reflecting off of it.



will what do you use in your cleaner???


----------



## parrisw (Jan 9, 2012)

RiverRat2 said:


> will what do you use in your cleaner???



Usually just paint thinner, or mineral spirits is pretty much the same thing, this time I used Lacquer thinner, though its a little more aggressive. That's just for carbs, I put the thinner in a coffee pot and float that in the USC that has just water in it.


----------



## jropo (Jan 9, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Now that you mention it, it does look like a domed piston doesn't it. Its not, I think its just the way the light is reflecting off of it.



I was going to say, Where did you get that!!

Another question, is that all the chamfer needed on the exhaust/ intake port?


----------



## komatsuvarna (Jan 9, 2012)

Looking good Will......The saw I mean :msp_sad:.

I gotta get me an USC before long, Just not sure what Im looking for yet.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 9, 2012)

jropo said:


> I was going to say, Where did you get that!!
> 
> Another question, is that all the chamfer needed on the exhaust/ intake port?



Yes, you don't need much. I may actually go a little more near the outside of the port since its a little wider then 65% of bore Dia. 



komatsuvarna said:


> Looking good Will......The saw I mean :msp_sad:.
> 
> I gotta get me an USC before long, Just not sure what Im looking for yet.



Thanks. 

Yes the USC's are great, got mine from ebay.


----------



## young (Jan 9, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Usually just paint thinner, or mineral spirits is pretty much the same thing, this time I used Lacquer thinner, though its a little more aggressive. That's just for carbs, I put the thinner in a coffee pot and float that in the USC that has just water in it.



i like seafoam also.


----------



## jropo (Jan 9, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Yes, you don't need much. I may actually go a little more near the outside of the port since its a little wider then 65% of bore Dia.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



O.k. Was not sure. I have seen some pictures on here and every one looks a little different. +/- Chamfer.

Can you have too much chamfer?


----------



## mdavlee (Jan 9, 2012)

Looks nice Will. How soon til you get to run it?


----------



## parrisw (Jan 9, 2012)

young said:


> i like seafoam also.



I've heard that works well. I'll have to try it sometime.



jropo said:


> O.k. Was not sure. I have seen some pictures on here and every one looks a little different. +/- Chamfer.
> 
> Can you have too much chamfer?



Yes and no. The chamfer will change timing so you have to account for that. Too much wont harm it, to little and you can hang a ring.



mdavlee said:


> Looks nice Will. How soon til you get to run it?



Not sure yet, I got most of the parts now. Still need a tank vent, and I think that's it. Just have to assemble it. Not likely I'll get to cut wood with it until after the beginning of February.


----------



## jropo (Jan 9, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> I've been trying a lower intake duration than I've used in the past Will. I'm in no way saying that this is the way to go or even that it helps at this point, but my thinking is along these lines....
> 
> We talk a lot about intake opening point, but what about the relationship between intake closing and transfer opening? We think about the blowdown time, but never do we mention the amount of time that crankcase pressure is building between intake closing and transfer opening.
> 
> ...





"The lower the intake and the higher the transfers the less time the pressure builds in the crankcase, so by leaving the intake as is and just raising the transfers.........????"

Sorry had to reread, I'm trying not to hound you w/ questions, but did you do this?^ Did you have to raise or lower the Exh./Int. in any way to account for the dropped cylinder? If so how many Deg.'s? Or did you just widen and blend? If so how much? You said that "I may actually go a little more near the outside of the port since its a little wider then 65% of bore Dia." How much is this over stock?

Once again sorry for all the questions.


----------



## komatsuvarna (Jan 9, 2012)

I hope Will don't care, But this is a 066 cylinder Im getting ready to port.






That upper mark is when the Intake closes, the lower one down next to the lip is when the transfers open.......marked off the bottom of the piston skirt. I laid it out like this because it was easy to tell what was what just by eyeballing it.
Intake is at 160 stock. If ya lower the intake more, its gonna move that upper line closer to the bottom line.

Transfer are at 114. Raise them and its gonna move that bottom line closer to the top line. The closer them lines get, the less case pressure you have. Am I making any sence?


Now I have no idea how much is enough, or how much is not enough.......:msp_confused: But the lower the intake gets, and the higher the transfers get, the less case pressure you have. The area between them 2 lines is what ''Im gonna call" the compression stage for the crank case....which don't look like much anyways.





BTW, all of this is just thinking out loud.


----------



## stihl038x2 (Jan 9, 2012)

So how about this ........... what if you don't raise the uppers to compensate for dropping the jug, widen them towards the intake as much as possible. Does this not help to "save" some c/c pressure & if you raise the ex. up this will increase the blowdown. By widening the uppers only, will this not help in the port/time/area to sweep out the old gasses & fill the cyl. with the extra charge from the added intake dur.

Also just thinkin' through the keys.........

Steve


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 9, 2012)

I would be lying Will, if I said all this was not over my head, but I still enjoy the thread, had to cover over and say hello to my loyal friend!! P.S 390, and all husky muscle saws are way cool:msp_thumbup:


----------



## jropo (Jan 9, 2012)

Once again, I am sorry. I do not want to derail Op's good thread. If I still have that many questions I have more reading to do. And I do appreciate all of the further assistance. I have imposed on the op enough.


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 9, 2012)

All this thinking makes my head hurt. :msp_unsure:

I'm just going back to hogging everything out and hoping for the best. :msp_ohmy:




:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 9, 2012)

Ya no worries guys. I've still got lots to learn just like most of us. The more you think you know, you realize how much your really don't know.


----------



## jropo (Jan 11, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> I hope Will don't care, But this is a 066 cylinder Im getting ready to port.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





I still do not want to derail op thread.
But I now want to take a stab at this.

Why would you even want to mess w/ the intake? Unless your raiseing it, and maybe filling the bottom.
More case pressure more Torque?
I get messed up when it comes to the transfers, but if you raised the intake and the transfers the same......... no change? 
More the cylinder compression the less the case pressure you need?
The closer the intake and transfer times are togather the more rpm?
The further they are apart more torque? Its just the matter of weighing it out.
Now the (on my screen) vertical lines are how far you are planning to widen and blend? Seems like alot.

Please let me know if I'm even in the Ballpark..


----------



## jropo (Jan 11, 2012)

stihl038x2 said:


> So how about this ........... what if you don't raise the uppers to compensate for dropping the jug, widen them towards the intake as much as possible. Does this not help to "save" some c/c pressure & if you raise the ex. up this will increase the blowdown. By widening the uppers only, will this not help in the port/time/area to sweep out the old gasses & fill the cyl. with the extra charge from the added intake dur.
> 
> Also just thinkin' through the keys.........
> 
> Steve



No loss in torque added rpm?

More directed volume?


----------



## jropo (Jan 11, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> All this thinking makes my head hurt. :msp_unsure:
> 
> I'm just going back to hogging everything out and hoping for the best. :msp_ohmy:
> 
> ...



My too. I thought they were talking nonsense until I did a little more reading, it still makes me a little  but its starting to make some sense now.

Thats what I say hog'em out! More the better!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 11, 2012)

You don't raise the intake, you lower it. Intake opens from bottom to top, ex opens from top to bottom.


----------



## komatsuvarna (Jan 11, 2012)

jropo said:


> I still do not want to derail op thread.
> But I now want to take a stab at this.
> 
> Why would you even want to mess w/ the intake? Unless your raiseing it, and maybe filling the bottom.
> ...




Dont raise the intake. You run the risk of dropping a ring into the intake port,,, which isn't a big deal as long as its not the ring ends. Alot of saws have rings that drop in the intake, but the ring ends cant be in there.

I cant speak about the case pressure.....I have no lies to tell when I say a lot of this stuff is over my head!!

The vertical lines.....The closest ones to the port is the piston skirt sides, the widest set of lines is the ring end pins. Ya probably cant see it in that picture, but the ring end pins is CLOSE to the upper transfer ports. Cant wrap them but a very very small amount. I may end up turning the piston around backwards so the ring ends will be on each side of the exhaust port. They will be ~ .100 on each side which should be fine, but I haven't made my mind up yet.

Like somebody said the other day, the more I learn, the less I know.


----------



## wyk (Jan 11, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Supposed to be not too bad in weight for a 90cc saw.













The 390 weighs in about the same neighborhood.


----------



## jropo (Jan 11, 2012)

parrisw said:


> You don't raise the intake, you lower it. Intake opens from bottom to top, ex opens from top to bottom.



W/ my eyes closed, I cut the motor/cylinder in half, ran the process thru slow in my head, and this is what I also came up w/. Why I thought raising the intake was ideal is beyond me now. If anything you would want to lower the intake to increase duration/charge, which would also get the charge in the cylinder earlier(if matters or not :dunno. Or raise the intake side of the skirt of the piston instead, (I guess this where a windowed pistion comes into play if needed) if you don't want to cut the cylinder. To make the exhaust port open earlier w/o cutting the cylinder, slope the crown on the exhaust side as long as there is enough material. Enrichen carb to pervent a lean mix due to the increased volume intering the c/c,transfers, combustion chamber. This is why the intake and exhaust are staggered, to reverse this makes no sense, to me, right now.

Also thinking out loud, thanks for helping me understand this a little more.
Once again not meaning to derail. :chatter:


----------



## jropo (Jan 11, 2012)

komatsuvarna said:


> Dont raise the intake. You run the risk of dropping a ring into the intake port,,, which isn't a big deal as long as its not the ring ends. Alot of saws have rings that drop in the intake, but the ring ends cant be in there.
> 
> I cant speak about the case pressure.....I have no lies to tell when I say a lot of this stuff is over my head!!
> 
> ...



Makes sense to me.
I forgot all about the ring ends.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 11, 2012)

jropo said:


> Makes sense to me.
> I forgot all about the ring ends.



Search for the thread porting 101, lots of reading there.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 12, 2012)

How we doing tonight? I been on the other new site. Liking it!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 12, 2012)

Doing well.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 12, 2012)

Sweet! And by the way just noticed your post count, never did before. Mother of god 11k!! Nice! I thought I reached another level 3k, but got a long way to go to catch ya buddy!


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 12, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Sweet! And by the way just noticed your post count, never did before. Mother of god 11k!! Nice! I thought I reached another level 3k, but got a long way to go to catch ya buddy!



lol, i think he does more talking then working.

you got this thing running yet?


----------



## parrisw (Jan 12, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Sweet! And by the way just noticed your post count, never did before. Mother of god 11k!! Nice! I thought I reached another level 3k, but got a long way to go to catch ya buddy!



LOL, thanks.



tree monkey said:


> lol, i think he does more talking then working.
> 
> you got this thing running yet?



If you knew me, you'd know its the complete opposite. 

No its not running yet. Still waiting on a few small parts, this is what happens when you build a saw from a box of parts.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 12, 2012)

parrisw said:


> LOL, thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



lol "box-o-saw" been there, more then once:bang:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 12, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> lol "box-o-saw" been there, more then once:bang:



Yep, allot of my saws started this way.


----------



## young (Jan 12, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Yep, allot of my saws started this way.



but is more fun this way hahaha


----------



## parrisw (Jan 12, 2012)

young said:


> but is more fun this way hahaha



Ya it is actually!


----------



## young (Jan 12, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Ya it is actually!



my dealer thinks so too. those small parts add up quick.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 12, 2012)

young said:


> my dealer thinks so too. those small parts add up quick.



They do, last resort for me though!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 13, 2012)

Making some progress. Still need a tank vent, other then that, I think that's all I need. Oh and a spark plug, that might help a bit.


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 13, 2012)

cant wait to see how yours turns out. i may be building one soon.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 13, 2012)

tlandrum said:


> cant wait to see how yours turns out. i may be building one soon.



Ya me too Terry!! Good luck with yours if ya get one.

Will


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 13, 2012)

i built and ported 2 saws today at the same time. one xp and one xpw. i cant believe how much stronger the xpw is with the same porting in both saws. the xpw rocks.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 13, 2012)

tlandrum said:


> i built and ported 2 saws today at the same time. one xp and one xpw. i cant believe how much stronger the xpw is with the same porting in both saws. the xpw rocks.



Wow two saws in one day. That would take me 2 weeks. So what's the deal with the xpw, I got one coming soon. What kind of numbers do you use one them? PM's are ok, if ya don't want to post here.


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 13, 2012)

i have no secrets on numbers. i am running about 162 intake 168 exhaust and 22* blowdown. pop up and combustion chamber flattened. transfer walls raised almost to the divider no windows in piston. widened as much as possible (about .050 left). giving numbers out is just a good point of reference for people to work toward . my numbers are high for most people but they are runners.. anyone who has ran my xpw's would agree.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 13, 2012)

tlandrum said:


> i have no secrets on numbers. i am running about 162 intake 168 exhaust and 22* blowdown. pop up and combustion chamber flattened. transfer walls raised almost to the divider no windows in piston. widened as much as possible (about .050 left). giving numbers out is just a good point of reference for people to work toward . my numbers are high for most people but they are runners.. anyone who has ran my xpw's would agree.



Cool, thanks Terry. Wow you widen to .050" to the piston skirt edge? I guess I go pretty conservative at .100"

I've seen the one vid of your xpw in a square cant. Its pretty quick.


----------



## stihl038x2 (Jan 13, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Cool, thanks Terry. *Wow you widen to .050" to the piston skirt edge?* I guess I go pretty conservative at .100"
> 
> I've seen the one vid of your xpw in a square cant. Its pretty quick.



I aim for 1,5mm (~.060 for the Southern Boyz :msp_razz: )

Steve


----------



## parrisw (Jan 13, 2012)

stihl038x2 said:


> I aim for 1,5mm (~.060 for the Southern Boyz :msp_razz: )
> 
> Steve



I have gone wider, just most of the time, I shoot for .100". Do you go past 65% of bore dia?


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

Worked on the muffler today. 

Opened up the stock port, then welded the deflector back down.
















Made another port, and made my own deflector with spark screen.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

Finished up. I don't particularly like the screw down deflectors but I thought I'd try it. I never usually run spark screens but thought I would this time and like to be able to remove the spark screen if needed.






I cleaned it all up and painted the muffler and painted it, paint is drying now, will post a pic later of it put together.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 15, 2012)

Looks good Will.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

All done the muffler. Looks much better all together and painted.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 15, 2012)

no vid? then it's not done yet


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> no vid? then it's not done yet



LOL, I said the muffler was done. Still don't have a tank vent. I ordered one from Baileys, it was on back order, should of been 1 extra week, which would of been here this week, but got an email saying it might be up to 30 days till I get it?????? So I'm going to call around locally tomorrow. I hate waiting.


----------



## Jacob J. (Jan 15, 2012)

Don't forget Will, I put a new tank vent in with that starter decal, so it should be there anytime. It was mailed last Monday?


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

Jacob J. said:


> Don't forget Will, I put a new tank vent in with that starter decal, so it should be there anytime. It was mailed last Monday?



Oh ya, chit, I forgot about that. Too many dam things on my mind. 

You're box of parts should be getting shipped out tomorrow.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 15, 2012)

just a reminder, started 12-16-11 today is 1-15-12, don't get in a hurry now


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> just a reminder, started 12-16-11 today is 1-15-12, don't get in a hurry now



OH, I know, but thanks for the reminder. I'm never in a hurry when its my own saw. I don't even have any wood to cut yet soooo. It'll be soon. I'm going away at the end of next week, so it'll have to wait till after that.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 15, 2012)

parrisw said:


> OH, I know, but thanks for the reminder. I'm never in a hurry when its my own saw. I don't even have any wood to cut yet soooo. It'll be soon. I'm going away at the end of next week, so it'll have to wait till after that.



your killing me with the suspense:bang:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> your killing me with the suspense:bang:



LOL, sorry, probably should of waited to start the thread EH?


----------



## NHlocal (Jan 15, 2012)

parrisw said:


> LOL, sorry, probably should of waited to start the thread EH?



...I'm glad you started it when you did, gives a great example of what it takes to put a good saw together, 
including waiting for those little parts you can't run without. Thanks for the updates! :msp_thumbup:


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Jan 15, 2012)

parrisw said:


> OH, I know, but thanks for the reminder. I'm never in a hurry when its my own saw. I don't even have any wood to cut yet soooo. It'll be soon. I'm going away at the end of next week, so it'll have to wait till after that.



For crying out loud Will, the 490XP will be out by then!


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 15, 2012)

Yep Duane I agree. I am enjoying the thread! And yes you get those ones where you need patience, and not everything goes as planned.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

NHlocal said:


> ...I'm glad you started it when you did, gives a great example of what it takes to put a good saw together,
> including waiting for those little parts you can't run without. Thanks for the updates! :msp_thumbup:



Very true! 



NORMZILLA44 said:


> Yep Duane I agree. I am enjoying the thread! And yes you get those ones where you need patience, and not everything goes as planned.



Just think, it makes each update that much better, when you have to wait.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

AUSSIE1 said:


> For crying out loud Will, the 490XP will be out by then!



LOL. That might happen!


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Jan 15, 2012)

It's all good Will, some of my jobs are coming to a couple of years!


----------



## parrisw (Jan 15, 2012)

AUSSIE1 said:


> It's all good Will, some of my jobs are coming to a couple of years!



LOL, I know. I've got many as well. Still got a BOX-O 395, just like the one I sent you, but not as nice.


----------



## NHlocal (Jan 15, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Yep Duane I agree. I am enjoying the thread! And yes you get those ones where you need patience, and not everything goes as planned.


...Duane???...:msp_confused: I have a cousin named Duane...:dunno:


----------



## stihl038x2 (Jan 15, 2012)

I'll run without a vent, just don't tip it on its side :tongue2:

Steve


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 15, 2012)

NHlocal said:


> ...Duane???...:msp_confused: I have a cousin named Duane...:dunno:


 Sorry I got that crossed up, Randy.. Duane duh I apologize guess its all my thread hopping:msp_razz:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

stihl038x2 said:


> I'll run without a vent, just don't tip it on its side :tongue2:
> 
> Steve



I know, I was tempted to fire it today, but the plastic thing on the carb that holds the throttle cable is broken and the cable just slips right off, so not going to bother till I get that.


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 16, 2012)

i made a trade deal on some of my 460 race stuff and some cash for a nice 385xp. ill be building me one soon. is the 390 cylinder much better than the 385


----------



## Jacob J. (Jan 16, 2012)

I ran an old ear plug as a vent for a couple weeks once in a 372 until I could get to the saw shop.


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 16, 2012)

necessity is the mother of invention jj


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

Jacob J. said:


> I ran an old ear plug as a vent for a couple weeks once in a 372 until I could get to the saw shop.



LOL. Good thinking, but are you hard of hearing in the ear you stole it out of?



tlandrum said:


> i made a trade deal on some of my 460 race stuff and some cash for a nice 385xp. ill be building me one soon. is the 390 cylinder much better than the 385



No Idea Terry. Why not try out the 385, I've heard they can be made to be real good runners.


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 16, 2012)

from an xp to an xpw is just 3cc so i would think the same scenario of performance difference in the 385 and 390. i may be wrong in this thinking


----------



## Jacob J. (Jan 16, 2012)

When the 385 first came out, I was lucky enough to get a near-new one from a side rod I worked with who went back to Stihl.
They can be real good runners with the right work. I didn't window the piston in mine or make a pop-up, just a lot of shaping 
work underneath and flat, wide ports in the cylinder.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

tlandrum said:


> from an xp to an xpw is just 3cc so i would think the same scenario of performance difference in the 385 and 390. i may be wrong in this thinking



Good point Terry. I know you love the XPW's. I've never ran either so I'm of no help.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

Maybe AL will chime in, I know he's done both, and has some experience with them. The numbers on this 390 are quite a bit different then what I'm used to in the husky lineup, so its new to me. 

I'm at about 67-68% width on the int and ex ports.


----------



## NHlocal (Jan 16, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Sorry I got that crossed up, Randy.. Duane duh I apologize guess its all my thread hopping:msp_razz:


Apology accepted Norm, . I've done it myself, I'm lousy with names. Maybe it's an age thing.....


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Jan 16, 2012)

The 385 and 390 run difference no's to each other.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

AUSSIE1 said:


> The 385 and 390 run difference no's to each other.



Do you know off hand what a stock 385 #'s run?


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Jan 16, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Do you know off hand what a stock 385 #'s run?



I don't know if I recorded them Will. If I can find my book (the wife likes to file things away for me in a "safe" place) I'll let you know.

They run an ex more in line with the 372's.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

AUSSIE1 said:


> I don't know if I recorded them Will. If I can find my book (the wife likes to file things away for me in a "safe" place) I'll let you know.
> 
> They run an ex more in line with the 372's.



Cool, thanks AL.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

Well couldn't wait any longer guys. I stole the cable clip off my 371 and fired off the 390. Only put a little gas in it so it didn't come pouring out of the vent hole. 

Wow, can't believe how snappy this saw is. Maybe there is something about not using a popup! I think it revs as fast or faster then my 372. 

Video uploading now.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 16, 2012)

is it done yet?:msp_biggrin:


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 16, 2012)

i can't wait! hurry up:msp_w00t:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> is it done yet?:msp_biggrin:





tree monkey said:


> i can't wait! hurry up:msp_w00t:



LOL, another 15 mins


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

Here it is. Nothing special. Hopefully can test it in the wood soon.

[video=youtube_share;X0MA59psrtw]http://youtu.be/X0MA59psrtw[/video]


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 16, 2012)

aaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggg

thats it? come on, cut the car in half, ya ya ya :msp_w00t:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> aaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggg
> 
> thats it? come on, cut the car in half, ya ya ya :msp_w00t:



Yup that's it for now. No wood here to cut. Once I get the tank vent, I can go somewhere and find some wood, or go out with my friends tree service. I had some test logs for a while, but makes a mess in the front yard.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

Wierd, just checked compression and only came in at 160psi. Really thought it would be higher to start. Some people report 185psi with just base gasket removed??? This is squish band cut and squish at .023".

Checked my 371bb to see how the gauge reads and it came in at 190psi, was definitely harder to pull over.


----------



## AUSSIE1 (Jan 16, 2012)

Will, it might be snappy on the throttle, but I bet it cuts lousy!

Found the book but no stock no's. From memory the stock ex was around 158.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

AUSSIE1 said:


> Will, it might be snappy on the throttle, but I bet it cuts lousy!
> 
> Found the book but no stock no's. From memory the stock ex was around 158.



Ya especially with no bar or chain! LOL


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 16, 2012)

how mutch did you cut from the squish?


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> how mutch did you cut from the squish?



.025" should of gone more, but I hear people say they are getting over 180 with just base gasket pulled??? WTF


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 16, 2012)

what is your in dur now?


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

I want to try to put 6 tanks through it, check it again, then tear it down, and check it over, maybe machine some more out of the chamber. Just don't want the intake to get out of hand.


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 16, 2012)

parrisw said:


> I want to try to put 6 tanks through it, check it again, then tear it down, and check it over, maybe machine some more out of the chamber. Just don't want the intake to get out of hand.



thats what i was thinking.


----------



## wyk (Jan 16, 2012)

parrisw said:


> .025" should of gone more, but I hear people say they are getting over 180 with just base gasket pulled??? WTF



My 385xp went to 170psi.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> what is your in dur now?



after machine work it was 153° duration, but when I ported I slightly took a little off the bottom, so probably no more then 155° in fact probably didn't even go that high.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

wyk said:


> My 385xp went to 170psi.



Well, that makes me feel a little better.


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 16, 2012)

in? ex? blowdown?


----------



## tree monkey (Jan 16, 2012)

parrisw said:


> after machine work it was 153° duration, but when I ported I slightly took a little off the bottom, so probably no more then 155° in fact probably didn't even go that high.



then you have room to cut squish and base more. take another .020 and check comp before changing ports


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Post machine work numbers.
> 
> EX 97.5atdc 165dur
> 
> ...





tlandrum said:


> in? ex? blowdown?



See above Terry.



tree monkey said:


> then you have room to cut squish and base more. take another .020 and check comp before changing ports



Cool, thanks Scott. I've heard the 390's don't like allot of intake? Maybe not though?


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 16, 2012)

i see a need for more in duration , but the rest looks good. takes fuel to make power. some are afraid of slow spooling with too much intake but im not worried too much .


----------



## Meadow Beaver (Jan 16, 2012)

tlandrum said:


> i see a need for more in duration , but the rest looks good.* takes fuel to make power. some are afraid of slow spooling with too much intake but im not worried too much* .



More intake is better in my opinion as well, intake channels are my prefered work to the intake.


----------



## SawGarage (Jan 16, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> aaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggg
> 
> thats it? come on, cut the car in half, ya ya ya :msp_w00t:




Easy Beavis, easy....


----------



## SawGarage (Jan 16, 2012)

Meadow Beaver said:


> More intake is better in my opinion as well,* intake channels* are my prefered work to the intake.




uhhhh?? with a wet intake, wouldn't this cause puddling?

pictures? as I have had thoughts about something similar...


----------



## parrisw (Jan 16, 2012)

tlandrum said:


> i see a need for more in duration , but the rest looks good. takes fuel to make power. some are afraid of slow spooling with too much intake but im not worried too much .



That was my first thought Terry. I usually don't go under 160 on most of my saws on the intake, but heard these 390's like different numbers. So I left it alone, and decided to run it as is and see. Easy to go back in for more, then to go too far and think FUK, I went too far. So, its going to get run like this for at least 6 tanks, then come apart again.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 19, 2012)

Ok, this compression thing was really bugging me. So I remember last year my gauge acted up, so I went out and tried again, I just couldn't accept 160psi. So when I check it again, sure enough I watched the gauge real close while I was pulling my guts out, everytime I stopped I saw the needle drop a bit, so the highest I saw this time was 170psi. But now I can't even trust that.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 19, 2012)

What is the issue Will just seem low?


----------



## parrisw (Jan 19, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> What is the issue Will just seem low?



Ya, there is a leak in the gauge somewhere. I just couldn't believe that it was only making 160psi. I can live with 170 now, we'll see after a few tanks and a new gauge.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 19, 2012)

Yep, gotcha it's a husky she will climb! t least you got a comp release. I pulled a few 288's. Woulda been afraid to guess the comp. 170 sounds really good. I know how you feel though if you are anything like me, if a saw is having an issue or something is stumping me it will keep me up at night.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 19, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Yep, gotcha it's a husky she will climb! t least you got a comp release. I pulled a few 288's. Woulda been afraid to guess the comp. 170 sounds really good. I know how you feel though if you are anything like me, if a saw is having an issue or something is stumping me it will keep me up at night.



YUP, it wouldn't leave my mind till I went back out and checked. 

I checked it against my 371bb, and either its a fluke it worked right, or that saw is pulling some serious compression, it hit 190psi.


----------



## RiverRat2 (Jan 20, 2012)

parrisw said:


> YUP, it wouldn't leave my mind till I went back out and checked.
> 
> I checked it against my 371bb, and either its a fluke it worked right, or that saw is pulling some serious compression, it hit 190psi.



If you read back through my Post in this tred,,, I believe I predicted it to hit 185+...........


----------



## parrisw (Jan 20, 2012)

RiverRat2 said:


> If you read back through my Post in this tred,,, I believe I predicted it to hit 185+...........



Yep, I remember that.


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 20, 2012)

I may actually get mine back together tomorrow


----------



## steve316 (Jan 20, 2012)

*payback*

Brad it only takes about an hour you should already have it back together. Rember the pacer shot.Steve


----------



## parrisw (Jan 20, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> I may actually get mine back together tomorrow



Sweet let me know how it goes


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 20, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Sweet let me know how it goes



My numbers are different than yours, so we'll see how it turns out.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 20, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> My numbers are different than yours, so we'll see how it turns out.



Care to share you're numbers?


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 20, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Care to share you're numbers?



Absolutely..................after the buildoff:hmm3grin2orange: I got beat by my own findings in the 460 build-off, lol. Can't let that happen again:msp_smile:


----------



## tlandrum (Jan 20, 2012)

so let me get this right brad. your simply saying your sceerd of being beet again and again and again and again and again and again. :hmm3grin2orange:otstir:


----------



## blsnelling (Jan 20, 2012)

tlandrum said:


> so let me get this right brad. your simply saying your sceerd of being beet again and again and again and again and again and again. :hmm3grin2orange:otstir:



Nope Just don't want to beat myself again, lol. Besides you may not want my numbers are the buildoff:taped:


----------



## parrisw (Jan 20, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> Absolutely..................after the buildoff:hmm3grin2orange: I got beat by my own findings in the 460 build-off, lol. Can't let that happen again:msp_smile:



PM me, I'm not in the build off.


----------



## Mastermind (Jan 20, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> Absolutely..................after the buildoff:hmm3grin2orange: I got beat by my own findings in the 460 build-off, lol. Can't let that happen again:msp_smile:



:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Dennis Cahoon (Jan 20, 2012)

Hahahahahaha!......You chainsaw nerds are beating your heads againist the wall. When in doubt, do what the motorcycles do.


----------



## jropo (Jan 21, 2012)

Well its been a while since I dropped in and bugged ya so....... Is it done yet, Is it done yet, Is it done yet, how about now, how about now. :hmm3grin2orange:

Can't wait for the video!

GET A NEW GAUGE!!!! 
Or when its under pressure spray it down w/ soapy water, might just have a loose fitting.


----------



## parrisw (Jan 21, 2012)

jropo said:


> Well its been a while since I dropped in and bugged ya so....... Is it done yet, Is it done yet, Is it done yet, how about now, how about now. :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Can't wait for the video!
> 
> ...



No loose fittings. Won't be able to test it till beginning of Feb sometime.


----------



## jropo (Jan 21, 2012)

parrisw said:


> No loose fittings. Won't be able to test it till beginning of Feb sometime.



Bummer. Can't wait to see what this thing does!

Started on those 372's yet?


----------



## parrisw (Jan 21, 2012)

jropo said:


> Bummer. Can't wait to see what this thing does!
> 
> Started on those 372's yet?



No, that'll have to wait till Feb too.


----------



## SawGarage (Jan 21, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Care to share you're numbers?


 :Eye::Eye:



blsnelling said:


> Absolutely..................after the buildoff.....



BBBBOOOOOO....

wait, *ANOTHER *buildoff?? :msp_rolleyes:

I thought it was going to be Mini-mac's this time?!!?!! I have 4 here, all with different #'s and stages of work.... :bang:



parrisw said:


> No, that'll have to wait till Feb too.



That's a shame.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 21, 2012)

Don't rush him fella's the DR. Must continue his research, and have a steady hand to perform the final surgery.:msp_thumbsup::yoyo:


----------



## Jacob J. (Jan 21, 2012)

NORMZILLA44 said:


> Don't rush him fella's the DR. Must continue his research, and have a steady hand to perform the final surgery.:msp_thumbsup::yoyo:



That and having a young family to take care of. Saws always come after family. 

If fact, they come after a lot of things.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Jan 21, 2012)

Yeah, I'm sure that would keep anybody busy.


----------



## Whiteman (Jan 21, 2012)

Jacob J. said:


> That and having a young family to take care of. Saws always come after family.
> 
> If fact, they come after a lot of things.



Too true. I got a used 390 right when this thread started and had to bring the jug to work to open it up a little. After a few weeks of owning it I finally got it together and running. The wife and 2 of my kids (7 months and 2 years old) had to look out back to see which saw I was playing with. Its a rare occasion that I get a chance to mess with a saw. Family time is more important, just not always as fun.:msp_smile:


----------



## mdavlee (Jan 21, 2012)

My little girl will let me work on them sometime if she can ride her tricycyle around the garage until she gets bored. If the wifes home I'm usually in the garage messing with something before they get up. I might have a build going on longer than Will here on the 066. I started it at christmas and might finish it the end of next month.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 12, 2012)

Well the wait is finally over you guys. Ran it today in the back yard, just had 4 big ties strapped together. It runs good I think, it doesn't impress me as much as my 372 does, I definitely think there is more in there, going to go back in after its broke in, don't want to jump the gun yet just incase its real tight, this is only the first run so keep that in mind, and not properly tuned yet due to break in. I also took a vid in the same wood with same bar and chain with my 372, they are very close, 390 had a 8pin 372 had 7pin, it was hard to tell but I think the 390 was a little quicker, but that's just seat of the pants feel. Someone will have to get out the stop watch for me. 

Vids uploading now, might be a couple hours, sorry.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 12, 2012)

Just watched the vids again a few more times. And now think the 372 is a little faster, I kinda thought it would be in this size wood, normal I guess. But its also set at about 14,5000 no load, the 390 was only hitting 13,5000.


----------



## komatsuvarna (Feb 12, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Just watched the vids again a few more times. And now think the 372 is a little faster, I kinda thought it would be in this size wood, normal I guess. But its also set at about 14,5000 no load, the 390 was only hitting 13,5000.



Sounds about right Will......Its happened to me several times. Until the wood gets big and the bars get longer, Seems like a hot 70cc will pull more RPMs. Id thought the 8 pin on the 390 would have made up a lot of the difference......Just thinking out loud.


----------



## tlandrum (Feb 12, 2012)

ptjeep and i done a little testing on my 385 today. i can say this i know where to get those missing rpm that it didnt have but i think when i did that i lost some of the torque. id rather have the torque that it had before the change. so i put it back.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 12, 2012)

Ya I agree with ya guys. I think my 372 is a very good running saw considering its not pulling allot of compression, when I first checked it was only pulling 160psi, probably a little more now. I really did very little work to the transfers so far on this. I think that may be the key to make this come alive, and maybe a little more intake.

Anyway here is the first vid. 390. Pardon the smoke billowing off of it, just the paint on the muffler burning in.

[video=youtube;pb96p_Xoajk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb96p_Xoajk[/video]


----------



## Metals406 (Feb 12, 2012)

Nothing wrong with the way that saw is cutting!

BTW, where's the winter facial hair? Now you're gonna get carded for beer. :msp_biggrin:


----------



## parrisw (Feb 12, 2012)

Metals406 said:


> Nothing wrong with the way that saw is cutting!
> 
> BTW, where's the winter facial hair? Now you're gonna get carded for beer. :msp_biggrin:



LOL, thanks Nate. Not much into a beard.


----------



## Metals406 (Feb 12, 2012)

parrisw said:


> LOL, thanks Nate. Not much into a beard.



Well fer Christ's sake, at least do a handlebar mustache or goatee!!


----------



## parrisw (Feb 12, 2012)

Metals406 said:


> Well fer Christ's sake, at least do a handlebar mustache or goatee!!



LOL, haven't you seen my facebook pic. Had a beard a little while ago, shaved it off for family pics.


----------



## wigglesworth (Feb 12, 2012)

Metals406 said:


> Nothing wrong with the way that saw is cutting!
> 
> BTW, where's the winter facial hair? Now you're gonna get carded for beer. :msp_biggrin:



Speaking of facial hair....

Ur straight razor is on its way. 


Saw sounds good Will. What is that? Rotted 4x4's?


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 12, 2012)

parrisw said:


> I really did very little work to the transfers so far on this. I think that may be the key to make this come alive, and maybe a little more intake.



The transfers and intake are key to the 390. You can have at least the RPMs of your 372 and boat loads of torque at the same time. Mine wil 4-stroke past 15K and will turn 12K in the wood. You can really lean on it too. It's in there


----------



## Metals406 (Feb 12, 2012)

parrisw said:


> LOL, haven't you seen my facebook pic. Had a beard a little while ago, shaved it off for family pics.



Well yeah! That's why I asked where it went! LOL


----------



## Metals406 (Feb 12, 2012)

wigglesworth said:


> Speaking of facial hair....
> 
> Ur straight razor is on its way.
> 
> ...



Saw-weet!

Thanks Jeremy! 

And that woods not rotten, it's well aged. Hahahaha


----------



## Metals406 (Feb 12, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> The transfers and intake are key to the 390. You can have at least the RPMs of your 372 and boat loads of torque at the same time. Mine wil 4-stroke past 15K and will turn 12K in the wood. You can really lean on it too. It's in there



Are you talking very little lower, and more upper trans work, mixed with a lot of intake?

Or did you hog the lowers?


----------



## parrisw (Feb 12, 2012)

wigglesworth said:


> Speaking of facial hair....
> 
> Ur straight razor is on its way.
> 
> ...



LOL, you ASS, its 6x6's not rotten. 



blsnelling said:


> The transfers and intake are key to the 390. You can have at least the RPMs of your 372 and boat loads of torque at the same time. Mine wil 4-stroke past 15K and will turn 12K in the wood. You can really lean on it too. It's in there



Feel free to PM me any more info if you like, on your after machine work numbers. As I remember ours were pretty close, I just didn't do much transfer work.


----------



## parrisw (Feb 12, 2012)

Here is the 372 to compare too.

[video=youtube;Vpkd-Xh30tU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vpkd-Xh30tU[/video]

And the 390 to compare to.

[video=youtube;pb96p_Xoajk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb96p_Xoajk[/video]


----------



## blsnelling (Feb 12, 2012)

Metals406 said:


> Are you talking very little lower, and more upper trans work, mixed with a lot of intake?
> 
> Or did you hog the lowers?



I cased matched and the tapered the lowers in. They are not hogged out at all. A lot of work was done to the uppers. Yes, lots of intake.


----------



## NORMZILLA44 (Feb 13, 2012)

tlandrum said:


> ptjeep and i done a little testing on my 385 today. i can say this i know where to get those missing rpm that it didnt have but i think when i did that i lost some of the torque. id rather have the torque that it had before the change. so i put it back.


Good point, I have run with a lot of guys who leaned there saws out, to get the highest rpm, but I would beat them at the stump. Kind of like floating the valves on a 4 stroke, you go backwards a little on the torque as it falls. Howdy Will Looking good man sweet saw:msp_wink:


----------



## parrisw (Mar 3, 2012)

Picked up a new compression tester today. I duno WTF is going on but the 390 only blew 145psi??????? My nice 372 blew 160psi which I knew from before, so the gauge must be accurate. I don't really think its going to come up allot once broken in.


----------



## Outlaw5.0 (Mar 3, 2012)

My new 390xp is only 150 psi.


----------



## parrisw (Mar 3, 2012)

Outlaw5.0 said:


> My new 390xp is only 150 psi.



I figured it would be higher, since I machined out the squish band.


----------



## tlandrum (Mar 3, 2012)

the one i just ported for nixon is setting at 185psi


----------



## SawGarage (Mar 3, 2012)

parrisw said:


> I figured it would be higher, since I machined out the squish band.



Will, The deck heights of the piston the same? decomp blocked with a plug, or ATLEAST sealing? 

I would think It would be higher too... I put a new slug in a Jonsereds 625, sans base gasket and it blew just under 190. The saw had not been run yet!... :dunno: THAT I was surprised with....


----------



## mdavlee (Mar 3, 2012)

I would think it should be up 175+++. The one I had with no popup and the squish at .019" was 175.


----------



## FATGUY (Mar 3, 2012)

I took .035" off Brad's and it's blowing just south of 200... check your decomp.


----------



## parrisw (Mar 3, 2012)

Thanks guys, I'll check it again tonight with a plug instead of a decomp.


----------



## blsnelling (Mar 3, 2012)

FATGUY said:


> I took .035" off Brad's and it's blowing just south of 200... check your decomp.



It actually went up after this, just shy of 200.





This is a 28" bar, full comp RSC chain, and a 7-pin rim in hardwood.
[video=youtube_share;3vT4DeVoyd0]http://youtu.be/3vT4DeVoyd0[/video]


----------



## NHlocal (Mar 3, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> It actually went up after this, just shy of 200.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice "little" saw...me likey.:msp_wub:


----------



## tlandrum (Mar 3, 2012)

this one runs pretty good heres the saw in stock form
[video]http://www.youtube.com/user/tlandrum2002?feature=mhee#p/a/u/1/7xHXQtSDqfU[/video]


here it is after porting [video]http://www.youtube.com/user/tlandrum2002?feature=mhee#p/a/u/0/0wG4T_NVsQg[/video]


----------



## nixon (Mar 3, 2012)

I'm looking forward to Getting the saw back in my hot little hands ! 
Got the 372 cleaned up and ready to ship ..... Just have to locate a decent box . 
Heck, even the wife was impressed ! :msp_biggrin:


----------



## NHlocal (Mar 3, 2012)

*Can you say CAD...*



tlandrum said:


> this one runs pretty good heres the saw in stock form
> [video]http://www.youtube.com/user/tlandrum2002?feature=mhee#p/a/u/1/7xHXQtSDqfU[/video]
> 
> 
> here it is after porting [video]http://www.youtube.com/user/tlandrum2002?feature=mhee#p/a/u/0/0wG4T_NVsQg[/video]


UH-OH! There goes my CAD again...:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## FATGUY (Mar 3, 2012)

nixon said:


> I'm looking forward to Getting the saw back in my hot little hands !
> Got the 372 cleaned up and ready to ship ..... Just have to locate a decent box .
> Heck, even the wife was impressed ! :msp_biggrin:



?


----------



## parrisw (Mar 3, 2012)

Well I put a plug in it and it only hit 150, then I figured I should start it briefly to get some heat into it and lube the bore, after that it hit 160, so a little better but I want more. After I run a few tanks, its coming back apart.


----------



## parrisw (Mar 3, 2012)

Here she is all ready to party!!!!! 33" bar and chain, ready to work.


----------



## jropo (Mar 4, 2012)

Cool !
I NEED one of those testers!
Too bad about the comp., something don't sound right.:msp_ohmy:


----------



## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

jropo said:


> Cool !
> I NEED one of those testers!
> Too bad about the comp., something don't sound right.:msp_ohmy:



Nice tester, not cheap though. Nothing Snap-On is cheap.

I duno about the comp, I'm gona run some tanks through it and take it back apart. Maybe something happened to the rings? Maybe there was a burr on one of the ports and hurt the rings? Who knows.


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## tree monkey (Mar 4, 2012)

[video]http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s294/scottk66/?action=view&current=MVI_0053.mp4[/video]
385 with 205lbs


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## jropo (Mar 4, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Nice tester, not cheap though. Nothing Snap-On is cheap.
> 
> I duno about the comp, I'm gona run some tanks through it and take it back apart. Maybe something happened to the rings? Maybe there was a burr on one of the ports and hurt the rings? Who knows.



No they are not cheap. The Snap-on guy used to come to the shop, went in the truck once, saw the prices, walked back out.
I did end up getting a Blue Point D/A, nice.

Looked like you had nice chamfers, and I think you'd notice a burr.
Ring of death?
Exh?
Lets just hope that them rings need to see some run time, and your decomp. was leaking a little.:msp_thumbup:
Hope she's ok.


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## blsnelling (Mar 4, 2012)

It's something besides run in time. A saw will have good compression from the time it's put together. This one is quite odd, don't know what to thing.


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## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> It's something besides run in time. A saw will have good compression from the time it's put together. This one is quite odd, don't know what to thing.



I'm thinking the same Brad???? Maybe an anomaly with this piston and cylinder? I really don't know. But my well run in 372 with popup is only 160psi, and it runs dam good.


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## blsnelling (Mar 4, 2012)

parrisw said:


> I'm thinking the same Brad???? Maybe an anomaly with this piston and cylinder? I really don't know. But my well run in 372 with popup is only 160psi, and it runs dam good.



What's your elevation?


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## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> [video]http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s294/scottk66/?action=view&current=MVI_0053.mp4[/video]
> 385 with 205lbs



Nice, 385's also have lower EX ports.


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## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> What's your elevation?



Sea level.


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## tree monkey (Mar 4, 2012)

did you run the saw or check comp before porting?


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## tlandrum (Mar 4, 2012)

i just did an xpw with combustion chamber cut and dropped the cylinder .065 and after porting it only has 150 psi. but i did not replace the rings. the rings had been run in this saw at a saw mill operation ,bucking stacks of lumber. id say the compression would come up a bit if i had replaced the rings. i will be replacing them in the near future but the saws runs like a stiped asss ape so no real need for it yet.


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## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

tree monkey said:


> did you run the saw or check comp before porting?



No I did not.


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## jropo (Mar 4, 2012)

Whats the difference between a 385/390 top end? 
1mm?


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## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

jropo said:


> Whats the difference between a 385/390 top end?
> 1mm?



Yes. 1mm or 3cc's


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## jropo (Mar 4, 2012)

1mm is not alot.
Might be a possablity.
385 slug 390 jug?
What was your ring gap?
Don't know if 1mm would even make the skirt slap.
Call me crazy.


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## tree monkey (Mar 4, 2012)

jropo said:


> 1mm is not alot.
> Might be a possablity.
> 385 slug 390 jug?
> What was your ring gap?
> ...



390 would not run with a 385 piston in it


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## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

jropo said:


> 1mm is not alot.
> Might be a possablity.
> 385 slug 390 jug?
> What was your ring gap?
> ...



You're crazy.


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## jropo (Mar 4, 2012)

parrisw said:


> You're crazy.



Just an idea.


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## deye223 (Mar 4, 2012)

opcorn:


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## Mastermind (Mar 4, 2012)

deye223 said:


> opcorn:



Pass the popcorn.......

I think you just didn't cut enough from the band to make up for raising the exhaust. You just took .025 out right? If that's the case it should still run real strong.


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## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

Mastermind said:


> Pass the popcorn.......
> 
> I think you just didn't cut enough from the band to make up for raising the exhaust. You just took .025 out right? If that's the case it should still run real strong.



I hope your right. I didn't raise the ex though Randy. These 390 come with pretty high exhaust from factory. Ya I only took out .025. and since then, reading how much other people take out of the chambers, I didn't take out enough. It's just wierd that some people say with just reduced squish theirs is pulling over 175psi, unless their gauges are overcompensating for something. 

Regardless, its coming apart again, I want more intake duration, I never lowered the intake, since I was thinking I was going to machine more from the cylinder.


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## blsnelling (Mar 4, 2012)

I only took .035" out of mine and it's nearly 200 PSI. .010" isn't going to make up that much difference. Additionally, I did raise my exhaust. Something is definately amiss.


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## parrisw (Mar 4, 2012)

blsnelling said:


> I only took .035" out of mine and it's nearly 200 PSI. .010" isn't going to make up that much difference. Additionally, I did raise my exhaust. Something is definately amiss.



Yes, .010 won't make much diff at all. Maybe I farked up a measurement? I don't know. I'll recheck squish when I take it apart, maybe its way out.


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## jropo (Mar 5, 2012)

Seems to me that if you cut the base to the point where you need to cut squish band, it should make more than stock comp.
Did you take .25 out of the band or the roof of the exh.?


While your in there check yo ring gap.:biggrin:


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## parrisw (Mar 5, 2012)

jropo said:


> Seems to me that if you cut the base to the point where you need to cut squish band, it should make more than stock comp.
> Did you take .25 out of the band or the roof of the exh.?
> 
> 
> While your in there check yo ring gap.:biggrin:



Squish band machined, then base was machined to bring squish back down. Ring gap on a brand new piston and cylinder?


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## jropo (Mar 5, 2012)

parrisw said:


> Squish band machined, then base was machined to bring squish back down. Ring gap on a brand new piston and cylinder?



Why not.
There is only a few things that kills comp.
Like you said, maybe you got a bad p/c.
I like puzzles, I like to know what is doing what, at what time. If something is wrong I wanna know why.
There has to be a good reason why the comp. is down, I'm simply curious as whats going on.

Who knows maybe your p/c was the last run on a Friday!!!!


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