# Chain Saw Sharpening



## Froggy (Jul 7, 2003)

Question for you Pro's out there. What technique do you all feel is the best to use in order to get the most even sharpening when you can't use a clamp.


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## NickfromWI (Jul 8, 2003)

Slice in to a small log a few inches, then use that groove to hold the bar steady while you sharpen. You can also buy a stump vise for like ten bucks. Super useful!

love
nick


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## Stumper (Jul 8, 2003)

I've sharpened freehand on tailgates and stumps for so many years that anything else seems like overkill (I understand that building racing chain is a whole 'nother subject.) When sharpening the right side cutters my left elbow secures the saw by bearing on the powerhead (usually on the front handle). When sharpening the left side cutters my gloved left hand secures the bar tip.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jul 8, 2003)

Brace it btween my knees and jut keep the angles uniform. Practice makes perfect.

Get some old chains from your boss and try to make each tooth look the same.

Also, if you need to knock the rakers down, do that first


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## dbeck (Jul 8, 2003)

when learning to sharpen chains, start using both arms from the start to make yourself ambidextrous. Ifyou don't, you PROBABLY won't sharpen the left side as well as the right side. Your angles will be fine w/our right hand, but your left hand will be not as strong as your right...you get the picture. Just a word of advice.

jps, why do you say to file the rakers 1st?


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## rahtreelimbs (Jul 9, 2003)

If you were to file the rakers first, then took a fair amount off of the cutters, wouldn't you have to file the rakers a second time?
Also, doesn't the proper raker file leave the teeth off of the side of the file? This prevents the file from doing damage to the cutter.


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## MasterBlaster (Jul 9, 2003)

I've allways knocked my drags down before the teeth. It just allways seemed better to do them first. I hate filing! Filing SUCKS!!


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jul 9, 2003)

If you want a accurately sharpened saw you will need to clamp the bar in place and use both hands on the file. If you're holding the saw under your arm on the tailgate and pushing the file with one hand, you are doing a questionable job. The guys that file racing saws need to clamp each tooth seperately, just that little slop in the bar is too much.
Taking the raker down before shapening the cutter will not be as accurate as doing it afterwards because the amount you take off the raker is dependent on the amount you take off the cutter. It is better to sharpen the cutters, then use a $3 raker gauge too get each raker the correct height relative to the cutter height. The raker gauge will protect the cutters as you flat file.
A little known trick is to file one side of the chain, then turn the saw upside down, insead of around, in the vice. This keeps the angles of the cutters the same, and you don't have power head in your way while you file. You can sit right in the same spot, you don't have to move your ash tray or six pack.
That's our rule at work, if you're sitting on the six pack filing long enough for your chair to go away, filing's done, go back to work.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jul 9, 2003)

Well, yahhahh, if you are doing a bench sharpening do with oresission. I'm talking about a quick field sharpening.

*IF* I need to tap the rakers in the feild I'll do them first then get the cutters.

Many times I just borrow a Pferd ChainSharp


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jul 9, 2003)

Just 'cus you are in the field doen't mean you don't have a vice in or on the truck or a stump vice. 
If you can put two hands on the file and the saw is steady, you can sharpen better, easier and faster.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jul 9, 2003)

I said brace with knees?? I suppose you gathered that i pull the file back and forth through the cutter too.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jul 9, 2003)

Only you would push back and forth on a very sharp tool held between your legs!  
Are you trying to raise your voice an octive?


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## rahtreelimbs (Jul 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Mike Maas _
> *
> A little known trick is to file one side of the chain, then turn the saw upside down, insead of around, in the vice. This keeps the angles of the cutters the same, and you don't have power head in your way while you file.*



Good idea!!! Thanx Mike.


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## Stumper (Jul 9, 2003)

Question all you want to Mike. My saws are still sharper than any others I ever seen.


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## rahtreelimbs (Jul 9, 2003)

Whatever works for the individual is the way to go! Although I still question doing the rakers first. I need a stump vice and two hands to get any kind accuracy.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jul 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Stumper _
> *Question all you want to Mike. My saws are still sharper than any others I ever seen. *



You should look at more chains. 
For example, you wouldn't run a new chain right out of the box or off the reel would you? Dang, those things are dull. You gotta touch 'em up a little before running them, don't you?

Rich knows.


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## jwiener (Jul 9, 2003)

Everyone is different. 
My older brother could never "free hand" a saw and make it cut srtaight. I learned from watching my dad and after awhile I was doing the sharpening so dad and the brothers could keep cutting.
I liked the stump that was low enough so I could kneel on the ground and rest my chest(and gut) on the saw to hold it steady.


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## kf_tree (Jul 9, 2003)

i find it amazing that so called tree men can not sharpen a chain. if one needs more than a tail gate and and a hand file it's time to look for a new occupation.

we always joke about that when hireing a new climber. the first thing we ask is can he sharpen a saw?


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## Stumper (Jul 9, 2003)

Yeah Mike , They cut better after I give'em a tickle. And the teeth have consistent angles and tooth heights even after several filings. I also straighten out other filers messes. Obviously freehand filing is hard-everyone keeps saying so and I see all these nasty looking chains-but I don't find it hard. Granted I am better than I used to be but I never had a problem getting my chains to cut well. Of course I can also sharpen knives- a stupendous achievement for a modern man judging by all the dull knives in my friends kitchens and the plethora of sharpening gizmos on the market.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jul 10, 2003)

Square ground is about 20% faster cutting, everything else equal.

Dan, does the wheel soon start to take the shape of a round cutter when you are converting round filed chain back to square? I understand you can dress the wheel square again, but does it need to be done often?

This subject has been hashed over many times on the chainsaw board, but doesn't a grinding wheel leave more microscopic striations than a file, causing slightly slower cutting?


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jul 10, 2003)

It sounds like you have a sweet setup. 
The few grinders I have tried had abrasive wheels like an angle grinder, and they would change in size and shape as you used them. The wheels you describe sound awsome.
Now that I think about it, it was the grinder that left a better surface, in the discussions.
I do want to get into a grinder soon, I just don't know what to look for. 
It does make sense to take a chain to a grinder 2 or 3 times in it's life to even things out or make them square ground again. Square filing in the field is tough, I do it for light touch up, but if the chain is really dull, grinding is better, for me anyway.
Did you ever put a square grind on a round tooth?


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jul 10, 2003)

I sharpened a round ground chain with a six sided file for square ground cutters, and it cut really good. I did do any timed cuts or anything, I just remember thinking it was faster.


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## Kneejerk Bombas (Jul 10, 2003)

No Brian, it was regular old semi chisel chain, on my power pruner as a matter of fact.
You should get a loop or two of square ground chain to check it out. Then when it dulls, try one of those six sided files, and when you fail at that (hehe, I assume you'll fail), just round file it.
Square filing isn't that hard, just put the file in, line it up and push.


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## Stumper (Jul 11, 2003)

The truth will out! Mike has a power pruner.


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