# New seedlings.... Poast herbicide



## whitedogone (Apr 19, 2009)

I need to apply some grass killer to some new seedlings. I have a atv sprayer with a boom and a handheld wand tip. I made a holder that I can stick the wand in and it will stray out to the side as I drive along. I'm not sure how much poast to mix with my 25 gal of water. All the info just shows how many pints of poast pre acre. I have no clue how many arces it would be. I need to know how strong the tank spray needs to be. I had no luck killing any grass with it last year. Too weak I guess. WDO


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## slinger (Apr 19, 2009)

Are you going to spray with the boom or the wand?

Herbicides are usually labelled for amount of active ingredient applied/area either acres or square feet (43560 sq ft/ac)



If you are going to spray X pints /acre in 25 gallons of water then you could add the correct rate of product to your 25 gallons an that would be the concentration assuming it covers 1 acre.


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## dingeryote (Apr 21, 2009)

whitedogone said:


> I need to apply some grass killer to some new seedlings. I have a atv sprayer with a boom and a handheld wand tip. I made a holder that I can stick the wand in and it will stray out to the side as I drive along. I'm not sure how much poast to mix with my 25 gal of water. All the info just shows how many pints of poast pre acre. I have no clue how many arces it would be. I need to know how strong the tank spray needs to be. I had no luck killing any grass with it last year. Too weak I guess. WDO



Whitedog,

Poast can be pretty fickle on some grasses. I don't have a label in front of me, but there are a few that poast dosn't kill at all. I have that issue in a section. Also if the grass is taller than several inches, Poast dosn't work well at all. 

For concentration ya might consider banding if you have enough trees in rows. Proper sprayer tips can be rigged to a square tubing boom attached to your ATV and line run back to the pressure regulator.
That way you get proper rate applied.

For wand application it is a crap shoot. Too little and it's a waste, too much and it's a waste. You can round about guesstimate by mentally figuring the area you are gonna spray around each sapling, and knowing the flow rate of your spray tip, and going from there. 

Just break an acre down to the area for each sapling, and break down the mix volume to match, and time the spray to match delivery rate you calibrate on your wand.

Honestly, good old Glyphosate at 2-5% and a Berthoud shield tip is my go to on young plantings. No drift, and everything gets nuked. Poast and fusilade always leaves broad leaves to spray later.

Oryzalin/Simazene applied in the spring keeps most things down for the whole season, but again you're gonna have to either band spray, or get good at eyeballing and timing area.

How many saplings and what species?

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## whitedogone (Apr 22, 2009)

I have a setup to mount my wand to the ATV for band spraying. I was told by the DNR that they mix it at 2oz./Gal. Sound about right? I have 2500 seedlings to spray. Black chokeberry, Red twig dogwood, and grey dogwood.


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## dingeryote (Apr 22, 2009)

whitedogone said:


> I have a setup to mount my wand to the ATV for band spraying. I was told by the DNR that they mix it at 2oz./Gal. Sound about right? I have 2500 seedlings to spray. Black chokeberry, Red twig dogwood, and grey dogwood.




Hang on WD. Lemme do some digging. I have the Poast data on my 06' spray recods..last time I used the stuff. Planted a new field of 5,000 Blue crop and Jerseys that year.

2oz to the Gallon is good to know, but at what ground speed and rate of delivery/area?

Does your ATV have a speedometer or tach?
If not, it's gonna be a SWAG at best anyhow LOL!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## dingeryote (Apr 22, 2009)

WD,

In 06' I applied at a rate of 1 pt. per acre, and the limit was 2 pts per acre for my state and crop. In my notes I had noted deference to sandy soil as to why I didn't go higher with the rate.

Speed listed was 2.2 mph(Calibrated digital speedo's are the BOMB!) and flow was 4 pints per min combined for the two tips. I don't remember if I used the 200gal. tank back then or was using the 60 gal.Tank so I can't help ya on mix concentration.

Just set your rig up and measure how much flow ya get out of your wand tip at lower pressure. 20-40psi to avoid misting.
Use a Measuring cup and time it untill full. 1 Cup=8oz etc.
Measure how much area is covered with the spray pattern.=Area.

From there, you can figure speed by setting your ATV up as you would be using it. Throttle stop, high idle, rpm's or speedometer. Whatever will be constant and repeatable.
Time a rolling pass of 100yds.

Now you have speed, area, and volume.
Then just crunch in how much spray dope you'll need to add to your tank to equate to 1 Pint per acre.

I'll dig around and try to find a Tutorial on sprayer calibration and banding applications for ya.


http://www.weedalert.com/general_application_info/sprayer_calibration.htm

http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cach...calibration+formula&cd=30&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

The first link is probably what you are looking for. 

Are you going to include a Pre-emerge or just stay with post emergent control?

Reason I'm asking is I have a little project underway fabbing up a rotary cultivator that might be fun.

Ever see a weed badger? LOL! Same principle as the friday Hoe, just smaller.


Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## whitedogone (Apr 22, 2009)

Thanks ding, I hit most of the strips w/ roundup the week prior. I don't think that I would get very good burndown with that because of the low temps here. Lots of tech info there.  Heck when the dnr came out a couple of years ago and did some existing trees here and there he just sprayed with the wand till everything was throughly wetted. Do know how I would cotrol speed that close going on level ground, uphill, downhill. I think I'll just mix it up at the 2oz/gal and drive along till it looks well wetted. I know it's going to take a few apps to get this grass burnt down good. WDO


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## dingeryote (Apr 23, 2009)

whitedogone said:


> Thanks ding, I hit most of the strips w/ roundup the week prior. I don't think that I would get very good burndown with that because of the low temps here. Lots of tech info there.  Heck when the dnr came out a couple of years ago and did some existing trees here and there he just sprayed with the wand till everything was throughly wetted. Do know how I would cotrol speed that close going on level ground, uphill, downhill. I think I'll just mix it up at the 2oz/gal and drive along till it looks well wetted. I know it's going to take a few apps to get this grass burnt down good. WDO




WD,

LOL!! It ain't that much techie.. You should see the Chemigation forms for running pre-emerge or innoculants with a Mazei injector on drip irrigation!!
I get a headache just thnking about it! 
Some folks can do the forms in thier head...not me.
Cup of Coffee, Calculator and a referrence book at hand LOL!

Check the flow rate on your wand and see what kind of "Hang time" you'll need to approach roundabout 1pt per acre, that way you wont waste too much. Poast ain't cheap!!!!LOL!! Heck, Glyphosate ain't cheap anymore.



Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## hokiewheeler (May 3, 2009)

You could always go with a fluazifop spray and then some type of pre emergent that won't hurt the trees. If you have a stand of grass around them now, fluazifop or quizalofop would work well. Then a pre-emergent would prevent any new growth around the seedlings. I think symmazine or atrazine might hurt the seedlings as both can be used post emergent in field crop systems as well as pre em.


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## larabush (Mar 19, 2010)

LOL!! It ain't that much techie.. You should see the Chemigation forms for running pre-emerge or innoculants with a Mazei injector on drip irrigation!!
I get a headache just thnking about it!
Some folks can do the forms in thier head...not me.
Cup of Coffee, Calculator and a referrence book at hand LOL!


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## dingeryote (Mar 20, 2010)

larabush said:


> LOL!! It ain't that much techie.. You should see the Chemigation forms for running pre-emerge or innoculants with a Mazei injector on drip irrigation!!
> I get a headache just thnking about it!
> Some folks can do the forms in thier head...not me.
> Cup of Coffee, Calculator and a referrence book at hand LOL!



Yup!
And it's getting to be that time of year again! LOL!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## Fechmup (Mar 30, 2010)

whitedogone said:


> Thanks ding, I hit most of the strips w/ roundup the week prior. I don't think that I would get very good burndown with that because of the low temps here. Lots of tech info there.  Heck when the dnr came out a couple of years ago and did some existing trees here and there he just sprayed with the wand till everything was throughly wetted. Do know how I would cotrol speed that close going on level ground, uphill, downhill. I think I'll just mix it up at the 2oz/gal and drive along till it looks well wetted. I know it's going to take a few apps to get this grass burnt down good. WDO



IMHO - I think you're much better off wetting down your target species than worrying about your speed and making passes. I'm a little nervous for you that your mounting the nozzle on the atv and making passes; that just sounds like a recipe for disaster, but I don't know your situation and I'm certainly not passing judgement. I have an atv (automatic) that I walk along side and spray by hand. Hitting your target is most important

When I used glyphosate products, (typically Rodeo - I was around water) I always keyed in on the "spot spray" or "brush" part of the label. Somewhere on the label, you should be able to find a chart that references spot spray and corresponding percent mixes, but, it will say that there is a *max per acre to be applied.*

I love how the labels are set up for sophisticated spray rigs that are GPS controlled and computer calibrated.

I guess my point is, read the label slowly and carefully - I feel like I see something new every time I read them. I also feel like they're up to some interpretation - a lot of gray areas.

Good luck.


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## Fechmup (Mar 30, 2010)

*From the Poast Label... Page 5 - bottom right.*

"Spot or Small Area Application 
DO NOT make spot treatments in addition to broadcast or band treatments. When using knapsack sprayers or high-volume spray equipment with hand guns or other suitable nozzle arrangements, prepare a 1% - 1.5% solu- tion of Poast in water unless otherwise specified under specific crops. Use a concentration of 0.5% for Dash® HC and Sundance® HC spray adjuvants, or 1% for oil con- centrate. Prepare the desired volume of spray solution by mixing the amount of Poast and the amount of Dash HC, Sundance HC or oil concentrate in water according to Tables 5 and 6."



http://www.cdms.net/LDat/ld00F025.pdf

Hope this helps, Good luck!


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## whitedogone (Apr 28, 2010)

I actually used Shadow

http://www.cdms.net/LDat/ld83B004.pdf

I didn't get a very good burn at all with it last year. I'm going to give it another go this year.


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## dingeryote (Apr 28, 2010)

Whitedog,

Did you figure out your rate of application?

I noticed the label calls for a pretty dillute solution, and sometimes it's a timing thing with getting a good kill with such herbicides.

Are the saplings big enough yet to run an articulated boom with a wiper or shielded nozzle?

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## whitedogone (Apr 29, 2010)

I am trying to burndown brome grass.  When I sprayed last year I don't think it was growing real fast at the time. It had been cold around the only time I could get to it. It was real wet last year and I just didn't get it sprayed but once. It's going to take a few apps with this brome at the right time (when it's really growing). The good thing is that with all the rain last year, the seedlings did great. Now, if I could know this sod they are growing in they will really take off. I think I'll try a slightly higher concentration this year as well. WDO


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## dingeryote (Apr 29, 2010)

whitedogone said:


> I am trying to burndown brome grass.  When I sprayed last year I don't think it was growing real fast at the time. It had been cold around the only time I could get to it. It was real wet last year and I just didn't get it sprayed but once. It's going to take a few apps with this brome at the right time (when it's really growing). The good thing is that with all the rain last year, the seedlings did great. Now, if I could know this sod they are growing in they will really take off. I think I'll try a slightly higher concentration this year as well. WDO




I know ya got a lot of 'em, and it's a PITA.

But the best and most surefire way to get things under control is a Shilded Nozzle on the wand and plain old Glyphosate with ammonium sulphate.

Once you get knockdown in the bands, it gets a LOT easier.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## whitedogone (Apr 29, 2010)

AHH....Good old:







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