# board and batten



## thepheniox (Dec 13, 2010)

Is it ok to nail up freshly cut green spruce. Or does it need to dry first?


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## jimdad07 (Dec 13, 2010)

When working with rough cut, as long as it's not for a floor, I have always put it up green all at once. The only reason for this is that it warps if you let it sit unless you are sticker stacking and even then you will have some shrinkage. Floors are different. For a floor I would let it dry.


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## betterbuilt (Dec 14, 2010)

When I put up green board and batten I nail them tight together. I've had pretty good luck using them green. I have heard of battens cracking because of the way the nails were put in. I haven't had that problem.


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## mtngun (Dec 14, 2010)

I used half dry wood for board and batter, but I installed the screws in such a way that the boards are free to expand and contract. 

Either nail one edge of the board, but not the other edge (the batten clamps the un-nailed edge).

Or else nail the center of the board, but not the edges. Again, the batten will hold the edges. I think that's how I did it. 

Also, I pre-drilled all the holes to reduce the chance of cracking and splitting. 

Haven't had any problems with cracking or warping. Some of the boards are weeping pitch, but I figure the pitch is a natural preservative, so it doesn't bother me.


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## deeker (Dec 14, 2010)

mtngun said:


> I used half dry wood for board and batter,* but I installed the screws in such a way that the boards are free to expand and contract. *
> 
> Either nail one edge of the board, but not the other edge (the batten clamps the un-nailed edge).
> 
> ...



Anything else may be asking for a headache.


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## thepheniox (Dec 14, 2010)

ya that makes sense to only nail one side. I was wondering how to do it so the boards didnt crack or just pull out the nails. I milled 100, 10-20 inch wide,1 inch thick spruce boards with the alaskan last saturday for a friend of mine. I just want to make sure he installs it correctly. OK it was really only 96 boards but my back is still telling me it was 100. Thanx for the ideas.


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## Sawyer Rob (Dec 14, 2010)

mtngun said:


> Or else nail the center of the board, but not the edges. Again, the batten will hold the edges. I think that's how I did it.



Yup, that's the "proper" way to do it! And, anything else IS asking for trouble...

One screw in the center is even better.

Rob


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## rarefish383 (Dec 15, 2010)

Now you have me curious. How wide are the battens and do you just put one nail or screw in the center of the batten also, Joe.


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## Timberframed (Dec 15, 2010)

As Mtngun stated. You can see the nails on one side of the batten. This b&b shop was built 35 years ago.




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## Sawyer Rob (Dec 15, 2010)

rarefish383 said:


> Now you have me curious. How wide are the battens and do you just put one nail or screw in the center of the batten also, Joe.



One nail or screw in the middle on the batten, and the nail goes between the edges of the boards. The batten holds the edge of the boards down, and allows everything to move as needed.

Rob


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## mtngun (Dec 15, 2010)

Batten width is a matter of taste, but I went with 3" and was pleased with the results. 

I left 3/4" - 1" gap between boards.

Boards were random width.

The screws/nails in the center of the board don't have to follow the _exact _ center, you can stagger them 2" - 3".

Around window and door openings, you'll be forced to use fasteners on the edges of the board, too. I got around this by egging out those screw holes with a drill.

Board and batten siding is an excellent project for rough sawn lumber. The rough surface actually improves the character.


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## thepheniox (Dec 15, 2010)

How did it look using different size boards. We were going to cut them all the same size but if it turned out good using random widths we could have way less waste. If you have any photos could you post one. This is great getting all this advice.

Thanx
Mike


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