# Stihl and ProMix Bar and Chain Oil is same stuff



## CORNFEDMIDGET (Dec 26, 2008)

I just picked up a couple of gallons of Pro-Mix Bar and Chain oil from Lowes for $4.95 gallon. Got the MSDS and compared to Stihl Bar and Chain oil; it is identical. Both produced by Omni Specialty. Everything on the MSDS is identical. Just thought I would give you all a heads up. I would buy from the Stihl dealer here, however they are asking around $13 a gallon. That seemed a little expensive. I can get almost 3gallons to 1gallon, with Pro-Mix, and it appears identical.


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## parrisw (Dec 26, 2008)

Hey thats interesting, good to know.


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## Wet1 (Dec 26, 2008)

I haven't noticed that bar oil at Lowes, but I'll have to check into it. I just picked up two gal. of the Pooplan brand bar oil at WM yesterday, I want to say it was around the same price and I've had good luck with it.


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## bruiser 1 (Dec 26, 2008)

CORNFEDMIDGET said:


> I just picked up a couple of gallons of Pro-Mix Bar and Chain oil from Lowes for $4.95 gallon. Got the MSDS and compared to Stihl Bar and Chain oil; it is identical. Both produced by Omni Specialty. Everything on the MSDS is identical. Just thought I would give you all a heads up. I would buy from the Stihl dealer here, however they are asking around $13 a gallon. That seemed a little expensive. I can get almost 3gallons to 1gallon, with Pro-Mix, and it appears identical.



Just went to LOWES web only see Husky oil. Is it just in certain stores?


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## Just Mow (Dec 26, 2008)

Sorry to burst your bubble ,but it is different


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## Wortown Mick (Dec 26, 2008)

I laugh at the clowns who think stihl b/c is sent from the gods or something. 
Same with stihl oil... 

Stihl makes chainsaws... ill buy my oil from a company that makes oil. 



It would be interesting to compare the oils side by side, maybe do a lil beta test / experiment to see if anyone could tell the difference other than your wallet getting alot lighter when it has anything to do with anything that says stihl.


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## Paul001 (Dec 26, 2008)

Wortown Mick said:


> I laugh at the clowns who think stihl b/c is sent from the gods or something.
> Same with stihl oil...
> 
> Stihl makes chainsaws... ill buy my oil from a company that makes oil.
> ...




Feel free to use whatever you deem appropriate for your saw. Hell I hear used fryer oil is sold rather cheap, might want to give that a try.

What I find humors are those who are so certain that there aren't any differences or that Engineers from a particular company would not be involved with testing/research into products branded by and directly used in conjunction with their base product.

However, you didn't ask for that information, you prefer to assume you already know what the answers are. I'll be happy to leave you to your blissfulness...

BTW, I think you ment to suggest a field test. Beta testing implies pre-release phase testing, but I'm sure you knew that.


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## CORNFEDMIDGET (Dec 26, 2008)

I'm not trying to make any enemies. I had a little extra time and asked for an MSDS at the Lowes store, they were happy to oblige, when someone finally knew what an MSDS was. I'm not advocating buying a saw at Lowes. I have a Stihl purchased from a dealer. What I am saying is compare the MSDS. Here is the Stihl MSDS:

http://www.mta.ca/administration/facilities/safety/msds/Grounds/Bar & Chain lubricant - STIHL.pdf

And the Pro-Mix Bar and Chain Oil MSDS is the jpg. files I attached. Take a gander for yourselves. Maybe Stihl is better. But I can't see "chemical" attributes that makes it such. I'm just trying to pass some info on to the rest of you all. 

Your not bursting my bubble. Whether you want to buy Stihl or Pro-Mix or Poulon or Husky, I don't really care. I am just passing info on.


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## Bowtie (Dec 26, 2008)

Paul001 said:


> Feel free to use whatever you deem appropriate for your saw. Hell I hear used fryer oil is sold rather cheap, might want to give that a try.
> 
> What I find humors are those who are so certain that there aren't any differences or that Engineers from a particular company would not be involved with testing/research into products branded by and directly used in conjunction with their base product.
> 
> ...



Yep, Ole Mick knows everything, according to him.


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## Paul001 (Dec 26, 2008)

CORNFEDMIDGET said:


> I'm not trying to make any enemies. I had a little extra time and asked for an MSDS at the Lowes store, they were happy to oblige, when someone finally knew what an MSDS was. I'm not advocating buying a saw at Lowes. I have a Stihl purchased from a dealer. What I am saying is compare the MSDS. Here is the Stihl MSDS:
> 
> http://www.mta.ca/administration/facilities/safety/msds/Grounds/Bar & Chain lubricant - STIHL.pdf
> 
> ...



Understand completely. I actually do the same with customers everyday. They suggest there is no difference between the Stihl oil they buy from me and the oil they get from Walmart. I explain what is different. If they are interested, great. If not, I suggest maybe they should pick up a case or two from Walmart.

I don't mind selling a few extra bars and chains to them each year 

With regards to the two MSDS's, easiest way to put it, think of brand name medication and a generic. Both have listed the same ingredients. Does that mean they are the same?


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## GASoline71 (Dec 26, 2008)

Wortown Mick said:


> I laugh at the clowns who think stihl b/c is sent from the gods or something.
> Same with stihl oil...
> 
> Stihl makes chainsaws... ill buy my oil from a company that makes oil.
> ...



Do you need a cookie? 

Gary


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## zr900 (Dec 26, 2008)

Paul001 said:


> Understand completely. I actually do the same with customers everyday. They suggest there is no difference between the Stihl oil they buy from me and the oil they get from Walmart. I explain what is different. If they are interested, great. If not, I suggest maybe they should pick up a case or two from Walmart.
> 
> I don't mind selling a few extra bars and chains to them each year
> 
> With regards to the two MSDS's, easiest way to put it, think of brand name medication and a generic. Both have listed the same ingredients. Does that mean they are the same?



Just think if your customers were using Husqvarna oil: you wouldn't be selling them any bars or chains. 
Stihl oil is about as tacky as a Ritz Cracker


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## Wet1 (Dec 26, 2008)

Paul001 said:


> With regards to the two MSDS's, easiest way to put it, think of brand name medication and a generic. Both have listed the same ingredients. Does that mean they are the same?



I have family members that work for BMS, Lilly, and Pfizer... yes, they usually are the exact same active ingredient (the part that that you actually benefit from).

Do you really think Stihl engineers know more about formulating oil than the oil companies that make it for them???

There's nothing wrong with buying Husky, Stihl, etc oil, but don't kid yourself into thinking that it's the only oil that will meet the manufactures requirements...


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## Paul001 (Dec 26, 2008)

Wet1 said:


> I have family members that work for BMS, Lilly, and Pfizer... yes, they usually are the exact same active ingredient (the part that that you actually benefit from).
> 
> Do you really think Stihl engineers know more about formulating oil than the oil companies that make it for them???
> 
> There's nothing wrong with buying Husky, Stihl, etc oil, but don't kid yourself into thinking that it's the only oil that will meet the manufactures requirements...



I never said that, did I?

Feel free to use whatever you feel best suits your needs.


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## Zackman1801 (Dec 26, 2008)

why would it be different if it comes from the same manufacturer and factory. it really dosent matter who tacks their name on it. companies around the world do it. 

although would it really matter what oil you buy, if it works i could care less about who makes it.


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## Airecon (Dec 26, 2008)

Looks like Omni packages some of Stihls 2 stroke oil too. http://www.stihlusa.com/msds/index.html

Looks like Stihl Ultra is made by Castrol Oil


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## K9-Handler (Dec 26, 2008)

*Agreed*

There shore are a lot of folks on this thread who don't care what other people use...


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## Bowtie (Dec 26, 2008)

zr900 said:


> Just think if your customers were using Husqvarna oil: you wouldn't be selling them any bars or chains.
> Stihl oil is about as tacky as a Ritz Cracker



:monkey: Man :newbie: s really dont have a clue.


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## parrisw (Dec 26, 2008)

Just Mow said:


> Sorry to burst your bubble ,but it is different



Care to elaborate? Just saying its different doesn't really help this situation.


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## aandabooks (Dec 26, 2008)

Personally, for the 2 gallons of bar oil I go through per year, I'll pony up for the Stihl since it gives me a chance to fondle the saws while I'm there.


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## J.Gordon (Dec 26, 2008)

Like it or not if it’s identical on the MSDS it’s the same. If you believe otherwise you eliminated ignorance.


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## Zackman1801 (Dec 26, 2008)

thats where it comes in for me, if i can get the same stuff down the road for 5 bucks less, guess where i shop. if the oil is tacky, stays on the bar, and keeps the chain lubed i dont care who the hell makes it, i go through mine quick so its not economical for me to buy the most expensive stuff just because im a brand jockey.


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## windthrown (Dec 26, 2008)

Y'all are gonna be using: 

GaryWAY oil products in all your saws.
Multi-level marketing coming to a tavern near you.


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## csx7006 (Dec 26, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Y'all are gonna be using:
> 
> GaryWAY oil products in all your saws.
> Multi-level marketing coming to a tavern near you.



GaryWay oil will be on sale $2.00 for 10 gallons. Hurry! this offer wont last long!!


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## dt6266 (Dec 26, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Y'all are gonna be using:
> 
> GaryWAY oil products in all your saws.
> Multi-level marketing coming to a tavern near you.



:agree2: ......amen to that


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## zr900 (Dec 26, 2008)

Hey Bowtie  

I have used stihl oil in the 044 at work for over 10 years for firewood cleanup, and have used husky oil in my personal saws for firewood. 
I can say that bars and chains hold up better with the husky oil by a noticeable margin.

044 at work 10 years 8-10 cord a year gone through 3 20" stihl es bars
371xp at home 10 years 10-15 cord a year still using original 20 and 24 inch Husky (Oregon) bars.


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## angelo c (Dec 26, 2008)

OK, so how do we get a MSDS for the Husky Bar oil and compare it to the Stihl/Promix . 

Also I am not sure if the MSDS has %'s of compounds in the list, it's tough to read and I am assuming that would be intellectual property. So in theory it could be made of the exact same compounds but in differing amounts and thus perform differently ?
Don't we have any retired petrochemical engineers who like to make sawdust ?


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## Zackman1801 (Dec 26, 2008)

yes compound in different ammounts would make different things, H20 would not be water if it had 3 hydrogen molecules or 2 oxygen, it would be a different chemical. same with things like this. but would adding more or less of somethings make a difference probably not, its all about what your adding and subtracting, if your talking about red dye or other little add in things that essentially do nothing then no.


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## Wortown Mick (Dec 27, 2008)

Paul001 said:


> Feel free to use whatever you deem appropriate for your saw. Hell I hear used fryer oil is sold rather cheap, might want to give that a try.
> 
> What I find humors are those who are so certain that there aren't any differences or that Engineers from a particular company would not be involved with testing/research into products branded by and directly used in conjunction with their base product.
> 
> ...



Youre right, field test is the proper term. I just couldnt think of it at the time. 

Fryer oil would work just like atf, motor oil, anything oil based with a suitable viscosity. Bar and chain oils just really heavy with some additives to help keep it from slinging off the bar.

There are definitely going to be better oils and worse oils , price would play a factor. Im saying for the disproportionately high price there are no disproportionate benefits to stihl oil. It might be marginally better with a fart of a percent more additive or something, its easier to pour but so is the bottle you buy for 5 dollars at an auto parts store is even more so. 

I dont advocate wasting money, run whatever youd like. 

You stihl people are so funny, blinders on every side to products that dont say stihl.


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## epicklein22 (Dec 27, 2008)

zr900 said:


> Hey Bowtie
> 
> I have used stihl oil in the 044 at work for over 10 years for firewood cleanup, and have used husky oil in my personal saws for firewood.
> I can say that bars and chains hold up better with the husky oil by a noticeable margin.
> ...



Well if Husky oil is so much better, why don't you be a good employee and tell them to buy Husky oil?:monkey:

3 bars for 100 cords? Sounds like someone doesn't worry about hitting rocks and dirt.......You should be able to get way more time out of those bars, or you are real picky about condition. Bar are no different than chains, they need maintenance too.


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## spacemule (Dec 27, 2008)

Wortown Mick said:


> You stihl people are so funny, blinders on every side to products that dont say stihl.



I think it'd be fun to do a Pavlov's dog bell type experience with Stihl heads.


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## ondarvr (Dec 27, 2008)

Everything I sell comes with an MSDS, they say little about the actual formula. We can make two products with identical MSDS's and they can be very different, one could be junk and the other may be great, there's little you can tell from an MSDS form.

I'm not saying that's the case in this situation and I don't use either one of these bar oils, so I don't even know if they look the same, just giving information on the MSDS.


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## carvinmark (Dec 27, 2008)

CORNFEDMIDGET said:


> I just picked up a couple of gallons of Pro-Mix Bar and Chain oil from Lowes for $4.95 gallon. Got the MSDS and compared to Stihl Bar and Chain oil; it is identical. Both produced by Omni Specialty. Everything on the MSDS is identical. Just thought I would give you all a heads up. I would buy from the Stihl dealer here, however they are asking around $13 a gallon. That seemed a little expensive. I can get almost 3gallons to 1gallon, with Pro-Mix, and it appears identical.



Did you get to try it yet? I may need to go check for some at Lowes.


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## Tzed250 (Dec 27, 2008)




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## deezlfan (Dec 27, 2008)

A MSDS is a legal document that specifies the ingredients that present a risk to human health and the technical information that is required to handle it safely. It in no way specifies the formula nor does it address the inert ingredients. Using a MSDS to compare product quality is ridicules and impossible. 

Omni Specialty Packaging is a custom contract packager according to their website. To assume that every gallon of oil that is run through their packing line is identical would be silly at best. To assume they may have used the same lab and legal team to prepare their MSDS would probably be a good assumption. 

That said, you won't convince me that $13.00 Stihl oil is superior to $5.00 Poulan oil unless you perform a side by side comparison using two identical saws in identical conditions. Until that point, you are attempting to blow smoke up my muffler. You bar oil snobs need to put up or shut up.


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## Zackman1801 (Dec 27, 2008)

lets just do a chem comparison by getting the ingredients list for a bunch of oils and see whats what, that or send them out and have them analized. then we can really see what is the best oil.


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## GASoline71 (Dec 27, 2008)

I too laugh at all the haters that think that "Stihlheads" are narrowminded loser idiots that only buy Stihl stuff because we "have too"..

So... if you are a Husqvarna fan and run only Husqvarna oils and such in your saws... does that count as being a loser with a blind following???

There is a reason that most Stihl guys use only Stihl stuff in their saws... it works, and we don't give a rip about the price. Plain and simple... so all you pu$$ies whinin' about "Stihlheads"... get a grip, and move along...

There are othe saw brands with "fans" that do the same thing... but don't get hacked on... jealousy is the highest form of flattery...

Man up, or shut up... 



Gary


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## blackoak (Dec 27, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> I too laugh at all the haters that think that "Stihlheads" are narrowminded loser idiots that only buy Stihl stuff because we "have too"..
> 
> So... if you are a Husqvarna fan and run only Husqvarna oils and such in your saws... does that count as being a loser with a blind following???
> 
> ...



The oil man hath spoken.


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## BIGBORE577 (Dec 27, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> I too laugh at all the haters that think that "Stihlheads" are narrowminded loser idiots that only buy Stihl stuff because we "have too"..
> 
> So... if you are a Husqvarna fan and run only Husqvarna oils and such in your saws... does that count as being a loser with a blind following???
> 
> ...



I've always liked your style. Calling it like it is without the candy coated crap, is one of your best attributes! Touche'


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## Tzed250 (Dec 27, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> I too laugh at all the haters that think that "Stihlheads" are narrowminded loser idiots that only buy Stihl stuff because we "have too"..
> 
> So... if you are a Husqvarna fan and run only Husqvarna oils and such in your saws... does that count as being a loser with a blind following???
> 
> ...




This is now officially nominated for "*Post of the Year*"!!!!


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## BIGBORE577 (Dec 27, 2008)

Tzed250 said:


> This is now officially nominated for "*Post of the Year*"!!!!



I'll SECOND that!!!!!!!!


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## Wortown Mick (Dec 27, 2008)

Im not endorsing any one brand of oil over another. And in no way bashed stihl saws. 


So tell me, does stihl underwear chaff less? What about the stihl boots do those protect better against stihl chain? 

FWIW I will say stihl makes the best chain IMO


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## GASoline71 (Dec 27, 2008)

I don't know about the clothing and such... I don't use any of that stuff... maybe I have to...



Gary


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## Wortown Mick (Dec 27, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> I don't know about the clothing and such... I don't use any of that stuff... maybe I have to...
> 
> 
> 
> Gary



I dont know if I like the boots they put the stihl name on or not. 

Ill stick with chippewas, good medium between price and quality.


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## BIGBORE577 (Dec 27, 2008)

Wortown Mick said:


> .....So tell me, does stihl underwear chaff less? What about the stihl boots do those protect better against stihl chain?
> .....



While I usually don't speak for someone else, if you are addressing Gary's statement, I'll go out on a limb with this one. You've missed the point.


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## alpinecrick (Dec 27, 2008)

csx7006 said:


> GaryWay oil will be on sale $2.00 for 10 gallons. Hurry! this offer wont last long!!



Just as long as it comes in a orange Stihl bottle..........by the way of Omni Specialty  




Casey


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## alpinecrick (Dec 27, 2008)

CORNFEDMIDGET said:


> I just picked up a couple of gallons of Pro-Mix Bar and Chain oil from Lowes for $4.95 gallon. Got the MSDS and compared to Stihl Bar and Chain oil; it is identical. Both produced by Omni Specialty. Everything on the MSDS is identical. Just thought I would give you all a heads up. I would buy from the Stihl dealer here, however they are asking around $13 a gallon. That seemed a little expensive. I can get almost 3gallons to 1gallon, with Pro-Mix, and it appears identical.




I'm' not surprised--and that's good info. Some products--petroleum products being one example--are often relabeled........again and again.

Although Stihl would like us to believe it's true, I never bought into the idea that Stihl oils were concoted by German Gnomes deep in the Ardennes....... 


Casey


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 27, 2008)

Couple of little details that the MSDS misses out.. Stihl's packing line is exclusive (no other products flow down it) and they only use virgin oil (not recycled hydraulic and other oils)... Oh, then there's that stuff called "paratac" - damn expensive machinery grade "tackifier".

Is it any better than other 'premium" brands? no idea, but I use it. For 90% of my cutting I doubt I couldn't tell any difference - but when you push the edge of lubrication - like with milling, then the differences show.

BTW.... I have a top secret pic of "someone" on Whidbey Island covering up Stihl labeling with "Garysown" stickers... :greenchainsaw:


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## alpinecrick (Dec 27, 2008)

ondarvr said:


> Everything I sell comes with an MSDS, they say little about the actual formula. We can make two products with identical MSDS's and they can be very different, one could be junk and the other may be great, there's little you can tell from an MSDS form.



That can certainly be true. But if the two MSDS specs are identical and coming from the same company, it's quite likely it's the same product coming out of the same "vat".


Casey


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## XJWoody (Dec 27, 2008)

aandabooks said:


> Personally, for the 2 gallons of bar oil I go through per year, I'll pony up for the Stihl since it gives me a chance to fondle the saws while I'm there.



Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner!


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## Pissfirwillie (Dec 27, 2008)

I don't care that Stihl can get a premium price for their products. That is the goal of most all capitalistic companies. They pay attention to the quality of their products and can charge accordingly. Probably 90% of chainsaw users only use 1 gallon a year anyhow, so they can get away from it. As for bar oil, I don't think that there is a big difference between brands as long as it has a "tacking" agent. During cutting season, we run our saws for about 5 to 6 hours a day, and I never noticed the difference between Husky Oil or Stihl Oil. We now run Bailey's Motion Lotion, simply because that is what is available from them. We buy it by the pallet.


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## parrisw (Dec 27, 2008)




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## GASoline71 (Dec 27, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> BTW.... I have a top secret pic of "someone" on Whidbey Island covering up Stihl labeling with "Garysown" stickers... :greenchainsaw:



Hmmm... :rockn: 

Gary


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## BuddhaKat (Dec 27, 2008)

Hate to burst anyone's bubble about which oil is best or not, but oil is oil. There has never been a lubrication failure in an automobile engine. Same is true I suspect of chains and bars. Every lubrication attributable failure that has ever happened has happened because of a _LACK_ of lubrication. If it gets oil on it, it won't fail.


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## GASoline71 (Dec 27, 2008)

How about all the flat tappet camshaft failures due to the oil companies removing zinc and phospherous (ZDDP) from the oils??? Those had lubrication on them and still failed...


I know this firsthand...


Gary


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## BuddhaKat (Dec 27, 2008)

Wortown Mick said:


> _snip_
> So tell me, does stihl underwear chaff less?
> _snip_


I dunno bout that, but I hear it cures ED. I wouldn't know anything about that cause I don't ever have that problem. Nope, not me! Nuttin wrong with my hardware! 

_(Where did I put the Stihl dealers phone number?)_


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## BIGBORE577 (Dec 27, 2008)

Gary,
Forgive me if I never understood your frustration about oil threads. I am now there. If only misinformation was worth something.


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## windthrown (Dec 27, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> BTW.... I have a top secret pic of "someone" on Whidbey Island covering up Stihl labeling with "Garysown" stickers... :greenchainsaw:



No way! They are only supposed to be stickered over by the regional GaryWayTM SuperSellers! :taped: 

SLOWP is in charge of producing the stickers, and the instructions for proper placement. So that activity would all be happening down by Mt Adams, inside or near a big 4WD sparkely pink Cady, and not anywhere near the P. Sound.


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## Thechap (Dec 27, 2008)

*Bar oil*

I just use a good ole quart of 10x30 motor oil.


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## CORNFEDMIDGET (Dec 27, 2008)

Jeepers Creepers. I am going to think twice next time I make a post. Just wanted to share some information, not misinformation. For what it is worth, it looks and "feels" like the Stihl bar oil. However, that isn't very scientific, just personal observation. It seems to work fine.


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## ondarvr (Dec 27, 2008)

alpinecrick said:


> That can certainly be true. But if the two MSDS specs are identical and coming from the same company, it's quite likely it's the same product coming out of the same "vat".
> 
> 
> Casey





We formulate and make the products (plastics), the MSDS does not specify the exact raw material that was used, it’s typically only a generic type. Take styrene for example, we use 4 or 5 different types of styrene, the MSDS will list the styrene % but not the type, same with glycol and other ingredients. Many items aren't listed at all, so an MSDS is of little value in identifying the differences between similar products. Our competitors can get ours and we can get theirs and aside from knowing the percent of a few listed items there's no way a formula can be copied with the information they provide.


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## Longwood (Dec 27, 2008)

CORNFEDMIDGET said:


> Jeepers Creepers. I am going to think twice next time I make a post. Just wanted to share some information, not misinformation. For what it is worth, it looks and "feels" like the Stihl bar oil. However, that isn't very scientific, just personal observation. It seems to work fine.



I guess nobody warned you there are some "Scared Cows", "Hornets Nests" and "Raw Nerves" on this forum your better off not to go near. In time you will learn to tap dance in this "mine field" without getting blasted. Good Luck in the future.


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 27, 2008)

send a "virgin" sample to blackstone labs ! or other lab ...AT least you will have a chemistry breakdown of all the added/NOT added - compared to X brand oil...

Then you can start throwing tin cans at each other on why X oil put more Magnium or Molybdenum. x, y z in it.. They can do this by parts per million..

I know they mainly do engine "used" oil analysis - but they also do check virgin oil as a guideline for the used stuff!

U all can talk all day long or someone spend $20.. and then that person has some ammo to type with!

Heck I would love to have Motul checked
someone do Stihl
someone do Motion Lotion
someone do Lowes brand X

then you can start talking oil!


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## zr900 (Dec 27, 2008)

epicklein22 said:


> Well if Husky oil is so much better, why don't you be a good employee and tell them to buy Husky oil?:monkey:
> 
> 3 bars for 100 cords? Sounds like someone doesn't worry about hitting rocks and dirt.......You should be able to get way more time out of those bars, or you are real picky about condition. Bar are no different than chains, they need maintenance too.




Not only do I tell him to buy Husky bar oil I have told him to get rid of all the 
chitty stihl equipment and buy Husky also.

And for the 3 bars for 100 cord, well how come I have no trouble with the Oregon bars that have cut much more wood. 

You must be implying that the Oregon bars are of higher quality than the stihl


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## Tzed250 (Dec 27, 2008)

:monkey:


zr900 said:


> Not only do I tell him to buy Husky bar oil I have told him to get rid of all the
> chitty stihl equipment and buy Husky also.
> 
> And for the 3 bars for 100 cord, well how come I have no trouble with the Oregon bars that have cut much more wood.
> ...



:monkey:


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## Airecon (Dec 27, 2008)

Looks like some other brands come from Spectrum- Echo and Bailey's does too. http://www.atlanticpowerinc.com/msds.htm

Comparing MSDS, looks like Echo, Dolmar, Bailey's and Poulan Pro may be the same thing. I think the cheap Poulan oil like at Wal Mart may be different. If you compare Stihl to Spectrum looks like they all got the same base oil CAS#64742-52-5. I think maybe they're all about the same.

Dolmar, Poulan Pro and Bailey's 2 stroke synthetic comes from Sprectum and looks to be the same from comparing MSDS.

In an earlier post someone said ...."Stihl's packing line is exclusive (no other products flow down it)"... So you're saying at Omni they have lines dedicated to packaging only Stihl Oil- I don't believe that. I would say they have lines dedicated to certain size and shape bottles and sometimes they put ProMix in, sometimes they squirt Stihl in. My guess is its all the same oil, but I may be wrong.


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## spacemule (Dec 27, 2008)

Here are my thoughts on the subject. Because bar and chain oil is a total loss system and does not involve high temperatures, the quality of oil is not nearly as pertinent as it is in engine applications. So long as the stuff is sticky enough to stay on the bar a round or two, it's fine. This position is backed up with only having to replace one bar tip in my life, and it was on a used saw and worn out before I bought it. If there is a difference, it's negligible for my purposes.


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## 2dogs (Dec 27, 2008)

Longwood said:


> I guess nobody warned you there are some "Scared Cows", "Hornets Nests" and "Raw Nerves" on this forum your better off not to go near. In time you will learn to tap dance in this "mine field" without getting blasted. Good Luck in the future.



Never mess with the AS scared cows.


----------



## Lakeside53 (Dec 27, 2008)

Airecon said:


> In an earlier post someone said ...."Stihl's packing line is exclusive (no other products flow down it)"... So you're saying at Omni they have lines dedicated to packaging only Stihl Oil- I don't believe that. I would say they have lines dedicated to certain size and shape bottles and sometimes they put ProMix in, sometimes they squirt Stihl in. My guess is its all the same oil, but I may be wrong.




Well... believe what you like. It is dedicated... it's one of Stihl requirements, and when you sell several million gallons a year.. you can do that. Every batch is also sampled and approved by Stihl in Germany before shipment from Omni. It's their brand so they care.


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## Just Mow (Dec 27, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Well... believe what you like. It is dedicated... it's one of Stihl requirements, and when you sell several million gallons a year.. you can do that. Every batch is also sampled and approved by Stihl in Germany before shipment from Omni. It's their brand so they care.



Don't fret it Lake. They just don't get it and it's not worth the breath


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## csx7006 (Dec 27, 2008)

Just Mow said:


> Don't fret it Lake. They just don't get it and it's not worth the breath



I second that


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 27, 2008)

something makes me think you all really don't want to find out the truth - because if u did - what the flap would we have 2 do around here :monkey: 

Marvel Mystery Oil

I think we should do a run on the top 2 stroke oils for engine  

also yes - 3 top bar oils! anymore sure but the top 3!

let the results lead the WAR!! and I am sure there will be one...


----------



## BIGBORE577 (Dec 27, 2008)

Just Mow said:


> Don't fret it Lake. They just don't get it and it's not worth the breath



Yep, if Darwin's rule applied, there would be plenty of room and saws left over.


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## logbutcher (Dec 27, 2008)

Any man that even mentions "Always time for a dram of Laphroaig Cask Strength ! " has to be correct. Even if from Texas. 

Now to hijack the oil thread and get down to real liquids: Laphroaig   

Now D&C tell me: how did a Texan get to know that beautiful drink ? You do know the slogan from Islay: " Laphroaig, either hate or love, there is no 
in between. No half measures. "  
Here Downeast, it is never shared.


----------



## PA Plumber (Dec 27, 2008)

Hear I read another thread, on oil.
It was a tad sad but not bad, on oil.
Nothing gained although pained, on oil.
I'll use my brand, head in the sand, on oil.


Okay, my "free" poetry is very rough, so I thought I would practice in an oil thread. Good chance it'll get lost in the archives and no one will really care.:greenchainsaw: 


Actually, I do care about oil. I do run Stihl orange bottle in my larger saws with longer bars. My comfort is all that really matters. 

If anyone here really cares about what I run in my saws, please send (oil preference written here) to me. 

Thanks!


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## Wortown Mick (Dec 27, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Well... believe what you like. It is dedicated... it's one of Stihl requirements, and when you sell several million gallons a year.. you can do that. Every batch is also sampled and approved by Stihl in Germany before shipment from Omni. It's their brand so they care.



LMAO

The gnomes are milking the oil ogres deep in the ardennes to keep the oil per stihl spec. 

Ill go with what spacemule said.


I get a free meal for every gallon of stihl oil I substitute with oil from a green bottle.


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## Airecon (Dec 27, 2008)

I'm going to bet that the Lowe's "Omni" oil is the same darn thing as Stihl. Doesn't make much difference to me because I don't use about a gallon a year. Somebody at Lowe's though needs to run down to the nearest Stihl dealer and find somebody that can write a description for them. Take a look. 

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...bcatg=111408&semkeyword=Bar+&+Chain+Oil+32+Oz.

Maybe if you mix it with gasoline it lubes the bar better.


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## Stihl310 (Dec 27, 2008)

LOL... this has been some good reading...

I'll chap all your guys' butts... I've been using used motor oiled that has been strained for over 5 years for my bar oil... it's free, and I have yet to see any ill effects of using it... The teeth on my chain always wear out before a link breaks... never seen any excessive wear.... I have had to replace one bar, but that was because a tree came down on it and torqued the nose of the bar, letting the bearings come out...


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 27, 2008)

Yep better than watching a barrel of monkeys!


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## parrisw (Dec 27, 2008)

Stihl310 said:


> LOL... this has been some good reading...
> 
> I'll chap all your guys' butts... I've been using used motor oiled that has been strained for over 5 years for my bar oil... it's free, and I have yet to see any ill effects of using it... The teeth on my chain always wear out before a link breaks... never seen any excessive wear.... I have had to replace one bar, but that was because a tree came down on it and torqued the nose of the bar, letting the bearings come out...



There are other reasons why not to use used motor oil.

Do a search.


----------



## windthrown (Dec 27, 2008)

As for real bar oil, I have run that Lowe's stuff (got a quart to try it once) and in my book it is about like that cheap stuff the sell at Wally World. Not for me, thank you. I do not run Stihl oil either. I run mostly Durex (made in Portland, OR specifically for chainsaws with red dye added, and good tacky additives) and/or Poulan oil, which I have found to be pretty darn good bar oil. I have also run Husky oil when I found a dirt cheap supply that they were discontinuing at one of those farm supply places. Husky bar oil was good stuff. Straight motor oil is too thin, and it flies off the bar way too fast. If you have to use it, get the non detergent motor oil and it is not only cheaper, but better for the environment, and better for your bars and chains. I used to run that stuff, and it will stretch your chains a whole lot faster than a good bar oil with tacky additives. It will also wear your bars faster. Wally World oil seems to be highly varied, and it is usually too thin. Better than straight motor oil, but that is about it. 

Poulan bar oil is about the best priced good bar oil that I have found. Durex runs about $8 a gallon at Bi-Mart here in the PNW, and I would put it up against any other higher priced bar oil out there. It is consistant and available in just about any town around here. Of course, yah, if you want REALLY CHEAP BAR OIL, like for free, just run used motor oil as bar oil. Not only will it grind your bars down faster, wear your rims and sprockets out faster, stretch your chains and dull them faster, but it is far worse for the environment too! And best of all, its free! My father did, and he swore by it. He filtered it through coffee filters. He ran it in his Homelite saw and other equipment. He also dumped it on his driveway and said it was good to keep the dust down. He also died of cancer at a young age (66). Another reason I own two (count 'em) 361s!


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## parrisw (Dec 27, 2008)

There are known carcinogens in used motor oil. Really not good stuff to be slinging around.


----------



## windthrown (Dec 27, 2008)

parrisw said:


> There are known carcinogens in used motor oil. Really not good stuff to be slinging around.



But its CHEAP, mang! :spam:

And Stihl310 says he still has all his teeth after 5 years of using it...


----------



## Ljute (Dec 27, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> I don't know about the clothing and such... I don't use any of that stuff... maybe I have to...
> 
> 
> 
> Gary



BUFF!?!!


----------



## Stihl310 (Dec 27, 2008)

Stihl310 said:


> LOL... this has been some good reading...
> 
> *I'll chap all your guys' butts*... I've been using used motor oiled that has been strained for over 5 years for my bar oil... it's free, and I have yet to see any ill effects of using it... The teeth on my chain always wear out before a link breaks... never seen any excessive wear.... I have had to replace one bar, but that was because a tree came down on it and torqued the nose of the bar, letting the bearings come out...



I knew that would do it... well I never knew it was bad for the enviornment, what does regualr bar oil consist of that makes it "good" for the enviornment??? Can't say I dump it on my driveway to keep dust down... but if we're going to go the eviornment route then we need to talk about 2 stroke exhaust as well...definetly not good for the enviornment... nor is burning wood... I mean, not trying to start and arguement just pointing out things that we all do that is not good...

I went to Home Depot today trying to find bar oil, but they didn't even have a single jug of it... the Stihl dealer wanted 13$ a gallon, and being the first plaaced I stopped in at I figgered I could find it cheaper elsewhere... I'd say about half the time I use old oil and half the time I use newbar oil... I can't say I have noticed any significant difference between the two. Of course I'm not cutting 500 cords of wood a year either, so that may have something to do with it... life expectancy of the components could go down I suppose, but the cost difference between the two makes it worth it to me to use up the old oil...

I know, I know... everyone hates me already because of it... sorry


----------



## Stihl310 (Dec 27, 2008)

Well I did some research on used motor oil in bars... seems about half the people say it's fine, and the other half say not to use it... Am I right or wrong for using it???

Just curious guys, I've been using it for years and have seen no ill effects... or excessive wear, never seen any kind of overheating on the bar or anything along those lines... figgered it was fine...


----------



## brages (Dec 27, 2008)

windthrown said:


> As for real bar oil, I have run that Lowe's stuff (got a quart to try it once) and in my book it is about like that *cheap stuff the sell at Wally World.* Not for me, thank you. I do not run Stihl oil either. I run mostly Durex (made in Portland, OR specifically for chainsaws with red dye added, and good tacky additives) and/or *Poulan oil, which I have found to be pretty darn good bar oil.*



Around here, the cheap stuff at Wally World is Poulan oil. (I mean it "is" is, not that it's part of some rebranding conspiracy.)

I can get a new bar and chain for my MS210 for about the same price as a gallon of Stihl bar oil... so I think I'm just going to start running it dry...


----------



## madmax (Dec 27, 2008)

Stihl310 said:


> I knew that would do it... well I never knew it was bad for the enviornment, what does regualr bar oil consist of that makes it "good" for the enviornment??? Can't say I dump it on my driveway to keep dust down... but if we're going to go the eviornment route then we need to talk about 2 stroke exhaust as well...definetly not good for the enviornment... nor is burning wood... I mean, not trying to start and arguement just pointing out things that we all do that is not good...
> 
> I went to Home Depot today trying to find bar oil, but they didn't even have a single jug of it... the Stihl dealer wanted 13$ a gallon, and being the first plaaced I stopped in at I figgered I could find it cheaper elsewhere... I'd say about half the time I use old oil and half the time I use newbar oil... I can't say I have noticed any significant difference between the two. Of course I'm not cutting 500 cords of wood a year either, so that may have something to do with it... life expectancy of the components could go down I suppose, but the cost difference between the two makes it worth it to me to use up the old oil...
> 
> I know, I know... everyone hates me already because of it... sorry



GOOSE,GOOSE,GOOSE, dammit I mean DUCK, (this could get serious).


----------



## Zackman1801 (Dec 27, 2008)

brages said:


> Around here, the cheap stuff at Wally World is Poulan oil. (I mean it "is" is, not that it's part of some rebranding conspiracy.)



darn i was just going to say that too. 

I say untill someone gets the two and does an ingredient check or has it tested in a lab none of this matters. if your oil works use it, it you want to be a brand jockey go ahead and buy your "brand" but im usually out of money and when i need bar oil i get the cheap stuff and my bars seem to be fine at the end of the day.


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## parrisw (Dec 27, 2008)

windthrown said:


> But its CHEAP, mang! :spam:
> 
> And Stihl310 says he still has all his teeth after 5 years of using it...



Ha ha ha. LOL, I could literally get tons of the stuff, but I have no desire to do so. Used motor oil is unhealthy, for that reason, I don't use it. I know all the things I do in life aren't healthy, but I try to keep them to a minimum.


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## Zackman1801 (Dec 27, 2008)

i just looked at one of my bar oil bottles and it says right on it, Please recycle old motor oil and do not use it for bar and chain lubrication. In laboratory animal tests it has shown to cause skin cancer after extended periods of exposure. I dont think that using it would hurt your saw much, but what about you?


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## parrisw (Dec 27, 2008)

Zackman1801 said:


> i just looked at one of my bar oil bottles and it says right on it, Please recycle old motor oil and do not use it for bar and chain lubrication. In laboratory animal tests it has shown to cause skin cancer after extended periods of exposure. I dont think that using it would hurt your saw much, but what about you?



Wont hurt the saw besides make it messy, and wear out your bar and chains sooner.


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## windthrown (Dec 28, 2008)

brages said:


> Around here, the cheap stuff at Wally World is Poulan oil. (I mean it "is" is, not that it's part of some rebranding conspiracy.)
> 
> I can get a new bar and chain for my MS210 for about the same price as a gallon of Stihl bar oil... so I think I'm just going to start running it dry...



Running a 210 bar dry... now you are talking! Great for the environment! You will get a badge from Al Gore for doing that! 

At the Wally Worlds I have shopped at here they only have an el-cheapo Wally brand of bar oil that I tried a few years ago. The Wally stuff comes in a square gallon bottle and is thinner and less tacky than Poulan that comes in the narrow wide green gallon bottle. I get my Poulan oil at a farm suppy place. Durex can be had at any Bi-Mart (PNW regional stores).


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## Wortown Mick (Dec 28, 2008)

Your actually suppossed to run motor oil, preferably synthetic right before you store a saw to keep it all healthy. 

Bar oil dont keep too good, especially the eco bio friendly stuff.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 28, 2008)

Zackman1801 said:


> i just looked at one of my bar oil bottles and it says right on it, Please recycle old motor oil and do not use it for bar and chain lubrication. In laboratory animal tests it has shown to cause skin cancer after extended periods of exposure. I dont think that using it would hurt your saw much, but what about you?



It trashes your oil pump... and is toxic waste...


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## RCR 3 EVER (Dec 28, 2008)

Up until I got my Stihl 361, my Dad and I did not use the saws alot so the several gallons of white Jugs with Green lettering (I forgot the name) sat around for several years. 
I was NOT going to put that crap in my Stihl however since it was gloppy and and had gloppy sludge on the bottom of the jug. I looked at newer stuff that was unopened but it showed the same sludge.:jawdrop: The Stihl jugs I bought for my saw from a year ago still have relatively clear oil. 

I bet the MSDS's are probably the same for these 2 oils also. It iall in the proprietary info.

It is the same as medications real and generic. I take Allegra the real stuff, yes it is much more expensive, but the generic version does NOT work, in fact I get asthmatic.


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## RCR 3 EVER (Dec 28, 2008)

I just looked at prices for Lowes oil and it more expensive than Stihl oil. It would definitely be more expensive if I added gas to the oil as it says I can do.


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## windthrown (Dec 28, 2008)

Wortown Mick said:


> Your actually suppossed to run motor oil, preferably synthetic right before you store a saw to keep it all healthy.
> 
> Bar oil dont keep too good, especially the eco bio friendly stuff.



Motor oil on a bar? Not me... never heard of that. I have had no problems with leaving bar oil on my saws for weeks or months of not using them. I would think that the opposite is more true; run bar oil on your bar before they are stored as it will stay on there a lot longer and not rust up. I store my unused loops in baggies with a little bar oil in there to keep them from rusting. I have never had bar oil cause a problem with any saw or chain, ever. I have heard that bio oil tends to congeal on the bars over time, and that you should run dyno bar oil in them if you are going to store them. I would not waste the money that synthetic motor oil costs on a chainsaw bar. No point. Save that money for the spendy synthetic premix oil. THAT stuff does make a huge difference over dyno.


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## Stihl310 (Dec 28, 2008)

Well, maybe I'll go back to running bar oil 100% of the time... I do have a dumb question though, what makes motor oil toxic to the eviornment, but bar oil isn't??? Iknow there are some bio friendly bar oils, but some of them are not??? Just curious...


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## angelo c (Dec 28, 2008)

One can only assume that the bi-products of the combustion process that the oil is designed to suspend, then filter away is the base of the carcinogens. It's been a while since I slept in a Holiday Inn Suites but that's a quick and "dirty" answer. I don't think there would be much of a difference for an unused motor oil. Other then lack of a tackifier/suspension and cost. 
I'ld bet some used auto oils are cleaner then others but still same principals apply. Auto exhaust is nasty stuff.


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## Tzed250 (Dec 28, 2008)

Stihl310 said:


> Well, maybe I'll go back to running bar oil 100% of the time... I do have a dumb question though, what makes *motor oil* toxic to the eviornment, but bar oil isn't??? Iknow there are some bio friendly bar oils, but some of them are not??? Just curious...



*Used* motor oil is toxic waste. Combustion by-products and metals in the oil will do bad things to your cell structure.


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## Tree Sling'r (Dec 28, 2008)

I burn a gallon a day at work, why would I spend the money on Stihl or Husky oil, when I can can buy a 55 gallon drum of a 30w/hydraulic mix for a $1 a gallon.
I like how many of the dealers sell a new bar, rather than just squeezing the rails and grinding them on the old one.
I can make a bar last a full working season, just by proper maintainence. Tips, well that is another story.
If Canon put Oregon's bearings in their tips they would last for ever.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 28, 2008)

There has been many a mechanic been known to become allergic to used motor oil, just from getting it on their hands too often. And who know what else they have in store for themselves later in life.


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## blackoak (Dec 28, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Running a 210 bar dry... now you are talking! Great for the environment! You will get a badge from Al Gore for doing that!
> 
> At the Wally Worlds I have shopped at here they only have an el-cheapo Wally brand of bar oil that I tried a few years ago. The Wally stuff comes in a square gallon bottle and is thinner and less tacky than Poulan that comes in the narrow wide green gallon bottle. I get my Poulan oil at a farm suppy place. Durex can be had at any Bi-Mart (PNW regional stores).


I think the cheap WalMart Super Tech bar oil is just straight 30W motor oil, but I could be wrong.


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## 2dogs (Dec 28, 2008)

Tree Sling'r said:


> I burn a gallon a day at work, why would I spend the money on Stihl or Husky oil, when I can can buy a 55 gallon drum of a 30w/hydraulic mix for a $1 a gallon.
> I like how many of the dealers sell a new bar, rather than just squeezing the rails and grinding them on the old one.
> I can make a bar last a full working season, just by proper maintainence. Tips, well that is another story.
> If Canon put Oregon's bearings in their tips they would last for ever.



I've run bulk spill oil in the past but since most of our work is in watersheds I'll stick to bio-oil. I do wish it was cheaper though ($75.00 for 5 gallons). In the 5 or so years I have been running Stihl Bio Plus I have found it super easy to clean up and does not leave any residue. In my world everyone would run inexpensive tackified canola oil instead of conventional bar oil. BTW I recycle all my used clean canola oil oil my bar oil.

I don't think there is a saw shop within 200 miles that would grind rails. I'm stuck using a Pfferd tool.


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## Paul001 (Dec 28, 2008)

2dogs said:


> I've run bulk spill oil in the past but since most of our work is in watersheds I'll stick to bio-oil. I do wish it was cheaper though ($75.00 for 5 gallons). In the 5 or so years I have been running Stihl Bio Plus I have found it super easy to clean up and does not leave any residue. In my world everyone would run inexpensive tackified canola oil instead of conventional bar oil. BTW I recycle all my used clean canola oil oil my bar oil.
> 
> I don't think there is a saw shop within 200 miles that would grind rails. I'm stuck using a Pfferd tool.



Lazy dealers. No saw leaves my shop, regardless of why it was brought in until the following is done:

Clean and reface bar
Clean air filter
Pull fuel filter and check/replace as needed.
Check sprocket -advise
Check RPM's/Carb settings.

All of the above take less than 5 minutes, with a cup of coffee in your hands. Most customers do not understand why we do it and even more do not appreciate that we do...until they use another dealer for their service.

Same reason I tell everyone, including in this thread, feel free to run whatever you feel is appropriate. If/when a failure occurs they are far more open to suggestions as to how to reduce the chances of those failures in the future.

If the sav-a-chain and other econo b & c oils work for you. If the extra stop to pick it up someplace else justifies the monies you'll save...use it.

However as several others have pointed out, and the sole reasons for my comments in this thread, the original conclusion of the OP were/are false. There is a difference. Does it justify the sometimes additional cost? Does it mean that Stihl oil is better? No, means that they are not the same oils.


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## windthrown (Dec 28, 2008)

Free bar dress? Carb tune? AF cleaned? Wow... if shops did that here I would tend to do less work on my saws myself. Here they want $45 just to diagnose the problem and tell you how much it is gonna cost to fix it.


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## BIGBORE577 (Dec 28, 2008)

Paul001 said:


> Lazy dealers. No saw leaves my shop, regardless of why it was brought in until the following is done:
> 
> Clean and reface bar
> Clean air filter
> ...



You can be my dealer anytime.


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## windthrown (Dec 28, 2008)

parrisw said:


> There has been many a mechanic been known to become allergic to used motor oil, just from getting it on their hands too often. And who know what else they have in store for themselves later in life.



I am sensitive to oil and gas myself. I have to wear latex gloves before I work on saws, my truck, the ATV etc. God knows what all that California gas with MTBE in it is going to do down the road. It got into the ground water anywhere near where it was stored.


----------



## Lakeside53 (Dec 28, 2008)

BIGBORE577 said:


> You can be my dealer anytime.



Uh oh.. I'e been demoted:greenchainsaw:


----------



## Paul001 (Dec 28, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Free bar dress? Carb tune? AF cleaned? Wow... if shops did that here I would tend to do less work on my saws myself. Here they want $45 just to diagnose the problem and tell you how much it is gonna cost to fix it.



The bar dressing is no big deal. Remember almost all my customers are commercial. They seldom drop in for one chain. We do not tune the carb, normally, just note the RPM's and advise if it should be adjusted. For good customers, it's just done.

There are issues with doing this though. If someone burns up a P & C, we get a few pointing fingers at us "well you adjusted it"! 

Helps us to track who is fiddling with their saws and after the rash of burned up P & C's we had awhile back, when they upped the Alchy level in the fuel...plus the number of dealers we have in the area who set straight to the spec sheet, without taking into consideration that that 660 they set at 14K will be making a living on a tree crew (almost no maintenance) with a 36" bar and those animals will be putting all 36 inches to work, daily.

Gives those customers one more reason to buy from us.

As for the diagnosis fee, unfortunately, we are headed that direction as well. I was getting ready to make a post on these boards looking for input from other dealers as to their wording and policy. The problem is a customer brings in a saw, it was running and just stopped/couldn't get it restarted/etc. We spend 15-20 minutes figuring out whats wrong. 

Now the saw is broken down.

We inform the customer that X is wrong and the price to make the repair. Typical commercial customer it's "how fast can you get it back to me". Typical homeowner/land scraper "I'll be in to pick it up" so they can go find some backyard yahoo to replace parts. 

Even worse when they pick it up, they want us to put another 10 minutes plus into the saw to re-assemble it. "When I brought it in, it was in one piece...". At this point I"m now out 30 minutes on a saw that we'll not be fixing.

So unfortunately, that diagnosis fee is going to have to occur. Doesn't mean we change our normal service procedures, as thats what separates us from the others.

I'm betting if you talked to your dealer/serviceman you might find that they've never thought much about it, and with a little persuasion on your part...who knows their procedure might change as well


----------



## 2dogs (Dec 28, 2008)

Paul001 said:


> Lazy dealers. No saw leaves my shop, regardless of why it was brought in until the following is done:
> 
> Clean and reface bar
> Clean air filter
> ...



My saws raerly see the inside of a shop. I don't need all that stuff done for me, I can do it myself. The last work done was replacing a crank seal, about a year ago.


----------



## BIGBORE577 (Dec 28, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Uh oh.. I'e been demoted:greenchainsaw:



Never! I know, I've tried!:censored:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 28, 2008)

windthrown said:


> I am sensitive to oil and gas myself. I have to wear latex gloves before I work on saws, my truck, the ATV etc. God knows what all that California gas with MTBE in it is going to do down the road. It got into the ground water anywhere near where it was stored.



I agree, but I use the blue nitrile gloves, they cost a little more but cheaper in the long run because they last longer. I work on cars for a living and I wear them all the time, I don't want it to become a problem, so I wear the gloves now before it does.


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## THALL10326 (Dec 28, 2008)

spacemule said:


> Here are my thoughts on the subject. Because bar and chain oil is a total loss system and does not involve high temperatures, the quality of oil is not nearly as pertinent as it is in engine applications. So long as the stuff is sticky enough to stay on the bar a round or two, it's fine. *This position is backed up with only having to replace one bar tip in my life, and it was on a used saw and worn out before I bought it. *If there is a difference, it's negligible for my purposes.



Good job Space. I highlighted the area in which you admit you don't know what your talking about, the judge would be proud but he may sit you down for wasting his time,hehe


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## THALL10326 (Dec 28, 2008)

Wortown Mick said:


> LMAO
> 
> The gnomes are milking the oil ogres deep in the ardennes to keep the oil per stihl spec.
> 
> ...




Whatcha laffing about Wort. Wasn't you the guy that thought his big Redmax blower blew away the competition by falling sucker to the air they measured in the uhhhhhhhhhhh fan housing, not what comes out the hose, did they give you a free meal,LOLOLOLOLOL


----------



## THALL10326 (Dec 28, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Uh oh.. I'e been demoted:greenchainsaw:



Dayummm Lake looks like Bigbore has tossed ya to the curb for Paul. I reckon I won't get any of his business either, oh well, more Folgers for me,hehehe


----------



## BIGBORE577 (Dec 28, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> Dayummm Lake looks like Bigbore has tossed ya to the curb for Paul. I reckon I won't get any of his business either, oh well, more Folgers for me,hehehe



Ah, heck. You're just jealous.


----------



## THALL10326 (Dec 28, 2008)

BIGBORE577 said:


> Ah, heck. You're just jealous.




Hey Lake theres some guy at the door wanting a coffee, he looks kinda cold out there, should we let him in? Whats that, is it Bigbore, let me look, yeah its him. Huh, whats that, oh ok, I'll tell him. Cracking door, peeking out, uhhhhhhh we're not speaking to you,LOLOLOLOLOL


Hey Big I feel terrible. I use Stihl bar oil,LOLOLOLOLOL


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## Stihlman441 (Dec 28, 2008)

In Australia the stihl bar oil is made by Castrol..................


MS260
MS441
MS660


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## Griffbm3 (Dec 28, 2008)

Stihlman441 said:


> In Australia the stihl bar oil is made by Castrol..................
> 
> 
> MS260
> ...



Further South in Antarctica, Stihl oil is made from Penguins... 

J/K:spam:


----------



## 2dogs (Dec 28, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> Good job Space. I highlighted the area in which you admit you don't know what your talking about, the judge would be proud but he may sit you down for wasting his time,hehe



Space is on my ignore list so I can't quote him. Space as the bar oil system is indeed total loss then you should do what you can to avoid polluting the environment by using a biodegradeable oil, not what is cheapest. You need to think beyond yourself and right now.


----------



## madmax (Dec 28, 2008)

2dogs said:


> Space is on my ignore list so I can't quote him. Space as the bar oil system is indeed total loss then you should do what you can to avoid polluting the environment by using a biodegradeable oil, not what is cheapest. You need to think beyond yourself and right now.



I have never used moter oil as bar oil before, but looking at it from an environmental standpoint Im tempted to change, afterall Ashes to ashes and dust to dust, but sling enough oil and the World wont rust!


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## Stihl310 (Dec 28, 2008)

2dogs said:


> Space is on my ignore list so I can't quote him. Space as the bar oil system is indeed total loss then you should do what you can to avoid polluting the environment by using a biodegradeable oil, not what is cheapest. You need to think beyond yourself and right now.



So my question then is, is the bar oil I buy from my stihl dealer in the bright orange jug biodegradable??? If not then I'm not sure what the arguement is... if it is bio- then that is news to me... never new of it....


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## zr900 (Dec 28, 2008)

stihl bio oil is in a blue jug at my dealers


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## THALL10326 (Dec 28, 2008)

Stihl310 said:


> So my question then is, is the bar oil I buy from my stihl dealer in the bright orange jug biodegradable??? If not then I'm not sure what the arguement is... if it is bio- then that is news to me... never new of it....



I think this thread is about two oils, one costing more than the other but they are both supposed to be the same oil, just in diffferent bottles. 

Where I work we have the same deal, one cheap bar oil and the Stihl oil in the orange bottle. The cheap stuff is about 3.00 a bottle less. When asked why is one cheaper than the other I just say its cheap stuff and the customers opt for the Stihl oil everytime. Probably sell 100 bottles of Stihl oil to every bottle of the cheap stuff. Those that buy the cheap stuff we just callem cheap, LOLOLOL


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## Stihl310 (Dec 28, 2008)

zr900 said:


> stihl bio oil is in a blue jug at my dealers



Thats what I was wondering... thanks... I have seen the blue jugs, but didn't see any at all yesterday at the dealer...


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## windthrown (Dec 28, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> Where I work we have the same deal, one cheap bar oil and the Stihl oil in the orange bottle. The cheap stuff is about 3.00 a bottle less. When asked why is one cheaper than the other I just say its cheap stuff and the customers opt for the Stihl oil everytime. Probably sell 100 bottles of Stihl oil to every bottle of the cheap stuff. Those that buy the cheap stuff we just callem cheap, LOLOLOL



   

You seem to have the world of sales figured out there Tommy. Does it have a label saying:

T-Hall's Cheap-Stuff 
Chainsawr Barr and Chains Oil


----------



## stihlfarmer (Dec 28, 2008)

there is also a stihl winter grade oil that comes in a blue jug but I use the orange bottle it costs $10 a bottle at my dealer and if you buy 6 bottles you get 1 free 6 + 1 = 7 bottles 60/7 = $8.57 per gallon at that rate it doesnt have to be much better than anything else to pay very easily

most places around here charge 13.99 per gallon no discount


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## THALL10326 (Dec 28, 2008)

windthrown said:


> You seem to have the world of sales figured out there Tommy. Does it have a label saying:
> 
> T-Hall's Cheap-Stuff
> Chainsawr Barr and Chains Oil




LOL, we only offer that cheap bar oil for those cheap customers, we want their money too. What kills me is the cheap sucker that will not buy a gallon, he buys a quart. For the price of two quarts they could have bought 1 gallon, I walk those to the counter grinning ear to ear,hehe


----------



## windthrown (Dec 28, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> LOL, we only offer that cheap bar oil for those cheap customers, we want their money too. What kills me is the cheap sucker that will not buy a gallon, he buys a quart. For the price of two quarts they could have bought 1 gallon, I walk those to the counter grinning ear to ear,hehe



Well, those are like the people that buy one pack of smokes at a time. They keep coming back and pay 2x over the long haul. What I never understood were the people that bought gas at my brother's old gas station. They would buy $5 worth of gas and smokes at a time. So that was a pack of smokes (cheaper then) and a few gallons of gas. Next day, same thing. Filling up with gas and getting a carton of smokes was not an option for them I guess? Even though my brother sold cartons of cigarettes for a lot less, he rearely sold any. He made more from smokes than from gas sales.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 28, 2008)

zr900 said:


> stihl bio oil is in a blue jug at my dealers



huh? Summer dino is orange. Winter weight dino is blue... Our stihl bio is Green (what else?)...


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## zr900 (Dec 28, 2008)

My bad, green not blue


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## THALL10326 (Dec 28, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> huh? Summer dino is orange. Winter weight dino is blue... Our stihl bio is Green (what else?)...



Yaw sell all three? We sell the orange bottle and thats it. If it gets too thick in the cold we say its too cold to be sawing. If it gets too thin in the summer we say its too hot to be sawing. If they want bio we tellem they shouldn't be sawig at all,LOLOLOLOL


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## alpinecrick (Dec 28, 2008)

ondarvr said:


> We formulate and make the products (plastics), the MSDS does not specify the exact raw material that was used, it’s typically only a generic type. Take styrene for example, we use 4 or 5 different types of styrene, the MSDS will list the styrene % but not the type, same with glycol and other ingredients. Many items aren't listed at all, so an MSDS is of little value in identifying the differences between similar products. Our competitors can get ours and we can get theirs and aside from knowing the percent of a few listed items there's no way a formula can be copied with the information they provide.




I realize that--and ultimately there may be a big difference between the Lowes stuff vs the Stihl--but I'm still saying it's unlikely......

I work with paint and epoxies, and am well aware of how MSDS sheets work, but you may be surprised at how often products are relabeled or copied--not everything is patented-able. It's fairly easy to reverse engineer something like oil and it's additives, and there's few secrets in oil/synthetic refining.

There are paints and epoxies out there that are relabeled but are identical--the difference in price reflects the warranty (longer warranty=higher price) and advertising (a specific product's advertising cost has to come out of that specific product's revenues).

A Stihl product is most likely going to be a good product, and a person can expect to pay more for that (re)assurance--it's like that with a lot of brand names.



Casey


----------



## windthrown (Dec 28, 2008)

A wise old sage once said... 



THALL10326 said:


> Yaw sell all three? We sell the orange bottle and thats it. If it gets too thick in the cold we say its too cold to be sawing. If it gets too thin in the summer we say its too hot to be sawing. If they want bio we tellem they shouldn't be sawig at all,LOLOLOLOL



Dayum Tommy, if you ain't spreadin' the chain sawin' gospel! 

If they want bio saw oil they should really be sawing by hand or something.


----------



## pickwood (Dec 29, 2008)

Buy the best you can afford-we buy expensive saws- why would you use cheap oils? And like it was said earlier, most of us use only a couple of gallons a year. Also, support yor dealer!:greenchainsaw:


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## mikefunaro (Dec 29, 2008)

I called OMNI today. 

I spoke to curtis, whose name appears as the contact on the MSDS. 

He confirmed that there were indeed differences between the stihl bar and chain oil and promix bar and chain oil. He said that stihl specifies certain tackifiers and base oils that they want to be used, and that these are different from those which promix specifies. 

He suggested that the stihl is a better oil.


----------



## Lakeside53 (Dec 29, 2008)

Finally....:greenchainsaw:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2008)

LOL, all this and a simple phone call sorts it out.

I'll still just keep using Stihl bar oil then.


----------



## Lakeside53 (Dec 29, 2008)

But If I'd have called, who would have believed me?


----------



## 2dogs (Dec 29, 2008)

Stihl310 said:


> So my question then is, is the bar oil I buy from my stihl dealer in the bright orange jug biodegradable??? If not then I'm not sure what the arguement is... if it is bio- then that is news to me... never new of it....



I have never bought Bio Plus in anything other than the clear 5 gallon jug. You know, the one you can't pour out of without spilling some on the garage floor. Andy says green for Bio Plus in gallon size. I think BP comes in quarts too, also a clear bottle but I may be wrong about that.


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 29, 2008)

Oh... there are two packagings for the Bio stuff - the OLD (a year back) clear packaged bio was imported from Germany. The later is packaged in the USA into Green.


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## alpinecrick (Dec 29, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> But If I'd have called, who would have believed me?




I would've believed you.....no, really!


But alas, it's too late--I already bought some at Lowes. I'll try it soon and see if my bar melts........ 


Casey


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## mikefunaro (Dec 29, 2008)

2dogs said:


> I have never bought Bio Plus in anything other than the clear 5 gallon jug. You know, the one you can't pour out of without spilling some on the garage floor. Andy says green for Bio Plus in gallon size. I think BP comes in quarts too, also a clear bottle but I may be wrong about that.




The quarts are now green. I think they used to be clear and cylindrical--that's what appears in this year's catalog.


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## THALL10326 (Dec 29, 2008)

windthrown said:


> A wise old sage once said...
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Its funny Wind. I never get asked much about oils other than maybe price. Saws, never get asked about vib systems, air filtration systems or weight. The only place I see talk about all those things is here on AS. Most of my buyers aren't into any of the stuff we talk about on here. They just want a saw, some oil and a promise I'll fix it should they have a problem later on. 

I do get to see the guys that run motor oil changed out of a car. Had one a few weeks ago. Oil was jet black in the oil tank. I said is that what I think it is, is that old used motor oil. He goes yeah, whats wrong with that. I go do you realize that stuff will eat up your oil pump in time and thats its really no good for bars and chains. He gets alittle huffy and goes well oil is oil and thats good oil, it was in my truck. I go really, why in the hell did you take it out of your truck if its so good. He stumbles and then goes well its got alot of miles on it so I changed it. I go was it jet black when you first put it in your truck, he goes no, thats why I changed it. 

I finally explained to him why it was jet black and why it was no good for bars and chains and why in time he would be buying a new oil pump. To my surprise he goes well I never knew any of that. I said well by Joe ya know now so whatcha gonna do. He broke out laffing. He winds up buying a bunch of bar oil, a new bar, and a slew of chains. Man spent 250.00. 

Goes to show some folks like it when your upfront with them instead of beating around the bush. Take note I never once called him a cheap bas-tard for using that old oil. I'm still wondering had I would he had spent more money,LOLOLOLOLOL


----------



## THALL10326 (Dec 29, 2008)

mikefunaro said:


> I called OMNI today.
> 
> I spoke to curtis, whose name appears as the contact on the MSDS.
> 
> ...



Oh my, that can't be. We all know Stihl is ripping people off. Them lowlifes are making zillions selling cheap oil in a bottle with their name on it. 

Funny how it comes full circle. Why is that bottle 3.00 cheaper, the answer is simple, thats the cheap stuff,haha


----------



## mikefunaro (Dec 29, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> Oh my, that can't be. We all know Stihl is ripping people off. Them lowlifes are making zillions selling cheap oil in a bottle with their name on it.
> 
> Funny how it comes full circle. Why is that bottle 3.00 cheaper, the answer is simple, thats the cheap stuff,haha



There's a dealer here that tries to sell gallons of the stihl stuff for $16 + tax.


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## THALL10326 (Dec 29, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Finally....:greenchainsaw:



Hey Lake talking about oils I had a guy bring in a 290 year before last that was trashed. The engine looked like it got burnt by a blow torch. Crank, rod and bearings were blue. I asked the old boy what kind of oil are you mixing in the gas. He goes Toro oil from over at Home Depot, its cheaper than yaws Stihl mix. I said is that right. He goes yeah, I can get a big bottle of that for what yaw charge for those small bottles of Stihl oil. I go is it 300.00 cheaper. He goes whatcha mean.

I finally showed him what his cheap oil did to his saw. He goes I'm not buying anymore of that f-cking schit,LOLOL

I walked out to the truck with him and on back of the truck was the Toro bottle, it was for lawnmowers. Unreal.


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## THALL10326 (Dec 29, 2008)

mikefunaro said:


> There's a dealer here that tries to sell gallons of the stihl stuff for $16 + tax.



Highest I've seen it is 13.99. We sell it for 9.99 but we have to buy it by the pallet to do that. If we bought it a case at a time it cost around 10.00 a gallon believe it or not..


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## 2dogs (Dec 29, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> Oh... there are two packagings for the Bio stuff - the OLD (a year back) clear packaged bio was imported from Germany. The later is packaged in the USA into Green.



Gracias!


----------



## Urbicide (Dec 29, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> Do you need a cookie?
> 
> Gary



I'll take an oatmeal raisin cookie.


----------



## windthrown (Dec 29, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> I walked out to the truck with him and on back of the truck was the Toro bottle, it was for lawnmowers. Unreal.



Well,, at least he was not running straight gas!  

By gosh, these oily threads are so much fun! :spam:


----------



## Airecon (Dec 29, 2008)

mikefunaro said:


> I called OMNI today.
> 
> I spoke to curtis, whose name appears as the contact on the MSDS.
> 
> ...




Omni has a big contract with Stihl, you don't think he's going to tell you the truth do you? It's probably in the contract that they can't discuss details about Stihl oil with Lowe's or regular Joe's that call in. Lowe's probably contacted them and said " we need bar oil" and Omni said " we can do it" and then squirted the same "Stihl" formula in the Lowe's bottle. That's what I would do if I were Onmi. Unless their Stihl contract says they can't use the same formula for other oil. If it is different, its probably so close it doesn't matter.


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 29, 2008)

a-around and round we go.. go round and a-round and round!


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## GASoline71 (Dec 29, 2008)

Airecon said:


> That's what I would do if I were Onmi.



That is the most clueless post I have read in a looooong time... 

Gary


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 29, 2008)

gary is that beer u have in your hand there??? 

could be a coke??


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## Urbicide (Dec 29, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> That is the most clueless post I have read in a looooong time...
> 
> Gary



Yea. I like the ones with the clues in them better. opcorn:


----------



## GASoline71 (Dec 29, 2008)

HA! Me too... 

Gary


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## Cedarkerf (Dec 29, 2008)

Airecon said:


> Omni has a big contract with Stihl, you don't think he's going to tell you the truth do you? It's probably in the contract that they can't discuss details about Stihl oil with Lowe's or regular Joe's that call in. Lowe's probably contacted them and said " we need bar oil" and Omni said " we can do it" and then squirted the same "Stihl" formula in the Lowe's bottle. That's what I would do if I were Onmi. Unless their Stihl contract says they can't use the same formula for other oil. If it is different, its probably so close it doesn't matter.



DEET dee deeeeeee Sure Stihl wouldnt care what they did with their oil:monkey:


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## GASoline71 (Dec 29, 2008)

diesel&coffee said:


> gary is that beer u have in your hand there???
> 
> could be a coke??



That would be a Bud Light... standin' in the campground at the Deming Logging Show... 

Gary


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 29, 2008)

got u!! If u only knew what went in - or DID not get in! U would surely change to Miller !!  

guess we need a taste test and after effects of consuming much beer.. its the only way settle this!


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## 056 kid (Dec 29, 2008)

Do not underestimate the power of the thick tacky oil in the light green jug. It can be used not only as bar oil but hydraulic oil and even motor oil!!









Polan oil is my fav.


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## Ljute (Dec 29, 2008)

Airecon said:


> Omni has a big contract with Stihl, you don't think he's going to tell you the truth do you? ... *SNIP*



A conspiracy theory? 
Curious, who do you think took down the WTC towers? :deadhorse:


----------



## Ljute (Dec 29, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> That would be a Bud Light... standin' in the campground at the Deming Logging Show...
> 
> Gary



Don't you know the synthetic beers go down much smoother and last longer between pees?


----------



## mikefunaro (Dec 29, 2008)

Airecon said:


> Omni has a big contract with Stihl, you don't think he's going to tell you the truth do you? It's probably in the contract that they can't discuss details about Stihl oil with Lowe's or regular Joe's that call in. Lowe's probably contacted them and said " we need bar oil" and Omni said " we can do it" and then squirted the same "Stihl" formula in the Lowe's bottle. That's what I would do if I were Onmi. Unless their Stihl contract says they can't use the same formula for other oil. If it is different, its probably so close it doesn't matter.



If you're OMNI, and you're packaging thousands upon thousands of bottles of bar and chain oil, and lowes calls you up and says they want some bar and chain oil, and proceed to say that it doesn't necessarily have to be TOP quality, are you going to use the same base oil or a cheaper base oil? I'm sure for OMNI, if they can save 10 cents per bottle by using a cheaper base oil or tackifier, they will. Multiply the savings by thousands upon thousands of bottles, and surely it outweighs any inconvenience which they encounter in having to do another, different blend. 

I'll add that the guy was rather frank, and agreed with my interpretation that there wasnt a very large difference between the two oils. He did say, however, that stihl specifies a specific oil and a specific tackifier. Perhaps when making the lowes variety, they may just go to the lowest bidder, provided that it still meets lowe's specs. 

Think about the case of two cycle oil. If the same company packaged stihl's high performance (Jaso FB) and super high performance (Jaso FD), would they put the super high performance in the high performance bottles just to save themselves from the inconvenience of having to bottle separate varieties?

To say that OMNI is just going to "squirt" some stihl oil in thousands of pallets of bar and chain oil headed to lowes when they can save some money and use a different oil is ridiculous. 

Maybe we should just let this one go... I go back to school in a week so if you want me to approach the chemistry department with samples of both for analysis I'll see what I can do.


----------



## BIGBORE577 (Dec 29, 2008)

People with just a little knowledge seem to be the most dangerous.


----------



## stihlfarmer (Dec 29, 2008)

mikefunaro said:


> If you're OMNI, and you're packaging thousands upon thousands of bottles of bar and chain oil, and lowes calls you up and says they want some bar and chain oil, and proceed to say that it doesn't necessarily have to be TOP quality, are you going to use the same base oil or a cheaper base oil? I'm sure for OMNI, if they can save 10 cents per bottle by using a cheaper base oil or tackifier, they will. Multiply the savings by thousands upon thousands of bottles, and surely it outweighs any inconvenience which they encounter in having to do another, different blend.
> 
> I'll add that the guy was rather frank, and agreed with my interpretation that there wasnt a very large difference between the two oils. He did say, however, that stihl specifies a specific oil and a specific tackifier. Perhaps when making the lowes variety, they may just go to the lowest bidder, provided that it still meets lowe's specs.
> 
> ...



:agree2: :agree2: :agree2: 100% down to the last letter

I love the word *ridiculous* it is so amusing but so direct


----------



## Lakeside53 (Dec 29, 2008)

Airecon said:


> Omni has a big contract with Stihl, you don't think he's going to tell you the truth do you? It's probably in the contract that they can't discuss details about Stihl oil with Lowe's or regular Joe's that call in. Lowe's probably contacted them and said " we need bar oil" and Omni said " we can do it" and then squirted the same "Stihl" formula in the Lowe's bottle. That's what I would do if I were Onmi. Unless their Stihl contract says they can't use the same formula for other oil. If it is different, its probably so close it doesn't matter.





LOLOL So far from reality it's funny... 

My friend, you have no idea....


----------



## DanManofStihl (Dec 29, 2008)

Not trying to come in to the middle of a full blown oil fight but in all honesty how much longer is a bar going to last using stihl oil verses the poulan brand bar and chain oil. I can get the poulan brand oil for $4.99 a gallon stihl $13.99 a gallon so every gallon I use of the cheap stuff that is $9.00 I go through about 2 to 3 chains before my bar is toast i have really never kept up with how much bar oil that is but I am sure it is a good amount so it would almost break even with the savings of using a more inexpensive oil. I used to run stihl when it was 7 bucks a gallon but $14.00 is just crazy for a gallon of bar oil.


----------



## Cedarkerf (Dec 29, 2008)

Gary give the last word on this oil thread so let it be said by Gary and so let it be the truth for all man kind to the 4 corners of the earth.


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2008)

DanManofStihl said:


> Not trying to come in to the middle of a full blown oil fight but in all honesty how much longer is a bar going to last using stihl oil verses the poulan brand bar and chain oil. I can get the poulan brand oil for $4.99 a gallon stihl $13.99 a gallon so every gallon I use of the cheap stuff that is $9.00 I go through about 2 to 3 chains before my bar is toast i have really never kept up with how much bar oil that is but I am sure it is a good amount so it would almost break even with the savings of using a more inexpensive oil. I used to run stihl when it was 7 bucks a gallon but $14.00 is just crazy for a gallon of bar oil.



2-3 chains before your bar is toast???????????? That's not very good, I think I can get longer life out of a bar using water.


----------



## lab-rat (Dec 29, 2008)

:hmm3grin2orange:


parrisw said:


> 2-3 chains before your bar is toast???????????? That's not very good, I think I can get longer life out of a bar using water.


----------



## diesel&coffee (Dec 29, 2008)

hmmmm hijack!

THink I am 2 get a Silvey 510 for some $900 to maintain the $200 or so of Carlton Chipper chain and semi chisel chain I have.... cooooooool.. 

:hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## stihlfarmer (Dec 29, 2008)

DanManofStihl said:


> Not trying to come in to the middle of a full blown oil fight but in all honesty how much longer is a bar going to last using stihl oil verses the poulan brand bar and chain oil. I can get the poulan brand oil for $4.99 a gallon stihl $13.99 a gallon so every gallon I use of the cheap stuff that is $9.00 I go through about 2 to 3 chains before my bar is toast i have really never kept up with how much bar oil that is but I am sure it is a good amount so it would almost break even with the savings of using a more inexpensive oil. I used to run stihl when it was 7 bucks a gallon but $14.00 is just crazy for a gallon of bar oil.



I can tell you that my neihbor who has me grind his chains (he never dulls them just hits rock or dirt as a habit) will not use anything but poulan oil and after about half the like of the chain it must be shortened a link and this is stihl chain (on a husky) i told him I have never had to have a chain shortened using the stihl oil

most of the time I will toast a nose sprocket before wearing out a bar if you can only get 3 chains worth out of your bar you are only proving the pont of the poolan oil being inferior i get at least 10 chains worth out of a bar possibly more than that

Bars are $40+ I think and I couldnt imagine replacing after only 2-3 well run chains


----------



## wigglesworth (Dec 29, 2008)

*Aahheemmmmm!!!!!*

FWIW i have a good friend who is a BONIFIED chemist, Manages a lab, and is a rather outdoorsy/good old boy, who would be more than happy to test both the "STIHL" brand and the "other" brand to compare chemical composition. I just need a sample. :biggrinbounce2:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2008)

wigglesworth said:


> FWIW i have a good friend who is a BONIFIED chemist, Manages a lab, and is a rather outdoorsy/good old boy, who would be more than happy to test both the "STIHL" brand and the "other" brand to compare chemical composition. I just need a sample. :biggrinbounce2:



DO PLEASE PUT THIS SUBJECT TO BED!!!! I CAN'T STAND IT ANYMORE.


----------



## wigglesworth (Dec 29, 2008)

> DO PLEASE PUT THIS SUBJECT TO BED!!!! I CAN'T STAND IT ANYMORE.


 I just figured that my friend could actually "put this to bed." I guess we will never know if its the same


----------



## spacemule (Dec 29, 2008)

wigglesworth said:


> I just figured that my friend could actually "put this to bed." I guess we will never know if its the same



I think he was saying to yes, please get your friend to test them.


----------



## wigglesworth (Dec 29, 2008)

all jokes aside, get me some samples and i will


----------



## parrisw (Dec 29, 2008)

wigglesworth said:


> I just figured that my friend could actually "put this to bed." I guess we will never know if its the same





spacemule said:


> I think he was saying to yes, please get your friend to test them.



Yes that's what I meant!!!


----------



## spacemule (Dec 29, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> LOLOL So far from reality it's funny...
> 
> My friend, you have no idea....



Why don't you tell us what you squirt in your jugs, Andy?


----------



## parrisw (Dec 30, 2008)

spacemule said:


> Why don't you tell us what you squirt in your jugs, Andy?



LOL you don't want to know what Andy squirts on JUGS!!!


----------



## lab-rat (Dec 30, 2008)

parrisw said:


> LOL you don't want to know what Andy squirts on JUGS!!!


I definitly spit my beer on that one that was good -dave-


----------



## Lakeside53 (Dec 30, 2008)

Why only the best, of course:biggrinbounce2:


----------



## parrisw (Dec 30, 2008)

lab-rat said:


> I definitly spit my beer on that one that was good -dave-



ha ha LOL, ya I'm still laughing about it.


----------



## BuddhaKat (Dec 30, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> How about all the flat tappet camshaft failures due to the oil companies removing zinc and phospherous (ZDDP) from the oils??? Those had lubrication on them and still failed...
> 
> I know this firsthand...
> 
> Gary


Well I have to admit, I've been out of the auto repair business for so long that I really can't say I would have heard about a major failure across the entire industry related to cams or lifters going flat from an ingredient removed from an oil formula. Would have thought the class action lawsuits would have made the news from all those hundreds of thousands of broken engines tho. I would however suspect there was something else contributing to your failure. The easiest way to determine that would be to ask if it was a single lobe or lifter that went out, or was there an equal amount of wear on them all? Was anything else worn in the motor as well? Even if there was, the culprit still might not have been the oil formula itself. Other factors such as a dirty oil filter, which has a bypass valve in case the filter clogs, or maybe a fault in the cooling system, etc. 

I'm certainly not a chemist, and I'm even farther away from that when it comes to chainsaws, but I spent many years as an engineer working with gears and bearings, grease and oil. I can say this about this subject though, the purpose of any lubricant is to keep two moving surfaces from contacting each other. There's always a film between the two surfaces, even if it's only a few microns thick. Two factors can affect the efficiency of this process, pressure and heat. A lubricant is formulated to work within the application. Exceed the limits and you will have a failure due to a _lack_ of lubrication. Now, does this mean one bar oil is the same as any other? Nope! But I suspect, (note, I didn't say I'm proclaiming), that most any quality bar oil is adequate for a typical sawing application. That can change due to other factors, such as the pressures generated by a harvester or sawing in -20° blizzards.

One thing I will 'proclaim' is that an MSDS is in no way, shape or form an indicator of what's in a formula, and it's highly likely that Stihl is having its own, very proprietary formula blended and packaged by an outside source. It's also just as likely that they have their own packaging line as something as simple as the shape of a bottle or a lid would necessitate that.

This thread needs to die!


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## windthrown (Dec 30, 2008)

*My Stihl oil light came on!?!?!*

Hey Gary/Lake/THall (and all would-be chainsaw oil experts):

The oil light came on on one of my 361s. What does that mean? :newbie:


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## parrisw (Dec 30, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Hey Gary/Lake/THall (and all would-be chainsaw oil experts):
> 
> The oil light came on on one of my 361s. What does that mean? :newbie:



If it did, it means your a tard!!! LOL


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## GASoline71 (Dec 30, 2008)

Cedarkerf said:


> Gary give the last word on this oil thread so let it be said by Gary and so let it be the truth for all man kind to the 4 corners of the earth.



This farkin' topic sucks... now lock it up.  

Gary


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## parrisw (Dec 30, 2008)

GASoline71 said:


> This farkin' topic sucks... now lock it up.
> 
> Gary



AHHH actually, it sucks my sweaty ballsac.


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## BIGBORE577 (Dec 30, 2008)

wigglesworth said:


> I just figured that my friend could actually "put this to bed." I guess we will never know if its the same



The narrow minded would not believe the results anyway. It would be deemed part of a mass conspiracy to cover up the truth. It's a great offer on you and your friends behalf but, most likely an exercise in futility, much like the thread it's self. Ignorance is Bliss.


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## Paul001 (Dec 30, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Hey Gary/Lake/THall (and all would-be chainsaw oil experts):
> 
> The oil light came on on one of my 361s. What does that mean? :newbie:



Means it's time to buy a new one. I'm sure you're dealer will give you a modest trade in for your current worn out 361


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## PA Plumber (Dec 30, 2008)

wigglesworth said:


> FWIW i have a good friend who is a BONIFIED chemist, Manages a lab, and is a rather outdoorsy/good old boy, who would be more than happy to test both the "STIHL" brand and the "other" brand to compare chemical composition. I just need a sample. :biggrinbounce2:



Yes, I would like to know those results.

PM me an address, quantity needed, and the cost. If I can swing the latter, I will mail you a sample of Tractor Supply's bar oil. 

I would guess you have some Stihl Orange bottle already? If not, I'll send some of that along also.


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## THALL10326 (Dec 30, 2008)

spacemule said:


> Why don't you tell us what you squirt in your jugs, Andy?




Boy what da hell is wrong with ya, its not what ya squirt *in* the jugs its what you squirt *on* the jugs, no wonder you and ya sister fight and carry on all the time,


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## Just Mow (Dec 30, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> Boy what da hell is wrong with ya, its not what ya squirt *in* the jugs its what you squirt *on* the jugs, no wonder you and ya sister fight and carry on all the time,


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 30, 2008)

windthrown said:


> Hey Gary/Lake/THall (and all would-be chainsaw oil experts):
> 
> The oil light came on on one of my 361s. What does that mean? :newbie:



It's time for your 5 minute $250 dealer service. If the light starts flashing.. drop it and run...


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## Sawin (Dec 30, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> Highest I've seen it is 13.99. We sell it for 9.99 but we have to buy it by the pallet to do that. If we bought it a case at a time it cost around 10.00 a gallon believe it or not..



I was in Union Maine today, at a Deere dealer that also sold Stihl. No prices on anything, so I yelled across the room, "How much are the Orange Gals?". the guys yells back "$18"! I just made a loud moaning sound and walked out the door. 

I think there must be a lot of "New Age" people living round and bout there...


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 30, 2008)

lolol GOUGING ....

We sell it for $11 if we don't know you...


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## wigglesworth (Dec 30, 2008)

> I would guess you have some Stihl Orange bottle already? If not, I'll send some of that along also.


 Stihl makes bar oil???   HA HA no i dont have any. I will talk to my buddy in the morning and will let you know.


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## Marco (Dec 30, 2008)

13+ pages and nobody mentioned that keeping your chain sharp and your rakers set properly might mean more than the brand of oil your using


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## diesel&coffee (Dec 30, 2008)

that would be under chain sharping - this is a oil X and Y thing.. Not a Angle X, Y in ref. Z angle !! :censored:


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## windthrown (Dec 30, 2008)

Lakeside53 said:


> It's time for your 5 minute $250 dealer service. If the light starts flashing.. drop it and run...



Geez! Stihl, the BMW of chainsaws!


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## spacemule (Dec 31, 2008)

THALL10326 said:


> Boy what da hell is wrong with ya, its not what ya squirt *in* the jugs its what you squirt *on* the jugs, no wonder you and ya sister fight and carry on all the time,


I always did wonder why those jugs is orange.


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## Erick (Dec 31, 2008)

So Wendy’s and McDonalds hamburgers taste the same right?????

I mean it's all the same thing.......

Ground meat, catsup, mustard, pickle....... gotta be the same right????


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## spacemule (Dec 31, 2008)

Erick said:


> So Wendy’s and McDonalds hamburgers taste the same right?????
> 
> I mean it's all the same thing.......
> 
> Ground meat, catsup, mustard, pickle....... gotta be the same right????



Going in you might notice a difference, but you sure won't going out.


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## Erick (Dec 31, 2008)

spacemule said:


> THALL10326 said:
> 
> 
> > Boy what da hell is wrong with ya, its not what ya squirt *in* the jugs its what you squirt *on* the jugs, no wonder you and ya sister fight and carry on all the time,
> ...





Incest...... a game the whole family can play.


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## parrisw (Dec 31, 2008)

Erick said:


> Incest...... a game the whole family can play.



Incest is BEST why go across the street when you can go across the hall!!!


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## lab-rat (Dec 31, 2008)

This is getting bad:monkey:


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## Lakeside53 (Dec 31, 2008)

yep....


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## Wortown Mick (Dec 31, 2008)

spacemule said:


> Going in you might notice a difference, but you sure won't going out.



Some truth in that, if it were burger king you could tell.


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## iCreek (Jan 11, 2009)

I am sticking with those Orange gallons, interesting topic though...

Picked up two cases of Stihl Bar Oil last Tues 1/6/09, $40.00 per case, comes to $6.66 per gallon if I do my math correct. His per gallon price is $7.00 out the door. Of course everything is reasonable at this Stihl dealer, in business since 1963.


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