# Husqvarna 50 big-bore upgrade question



## Axlerod74 (Dec 30, 2010)

My Dad's old 1987 model 50 husqvarna finally refused to start after over 20+ years of firewood cutting. I told him I would look at it and see if I could get it back into service. Pulled the muffler and the piston and and ring are heavily scoured. I believe the stock piston and cylinder are 44mm. There are plenty of 45mm and 46mm top ends out there on the net. Does anyone know if there would be any problems simply stepping up to the bigger piston and bolting up the 46mm cylinder (originaly for the 55 rancher). Looks like a simple big bore upgrade but the current carburator is the Walbro WA 82A. Would the carb. need an upgrade as well?


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## Roanoker494 (Dec 30, 2010)

All you will need is the larger piston and cylinder, everything else will swap over and work fine. Check out site sponsor Bailey's for a good deal on a aftermarket 46mm top end. Bailey's - NWP Cylinder Assembly for Husqvarna 50, 51, 55


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## lwhaples (Dec 30, 2010)

Have the bigger jug and piston on it's way from Baileys.Nice light saw,soon to be 53 CC. Good Luck!


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## wigglesworth (Dec 30, 2010)

Do yourself a favor, and replace the intake boot, impulse grommet and the fuel line, if not, you will most likely be replacing the P&C again......


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 30, 2010)

lwhaples said:


> Have the bigger jug and piston on it's way from Baileys.Nice light saw,soon to be 53 CC. Good Luck!


 
Let us know how and if that works out. I had believed that a 55 jug would only fit on cetain later 50's or 50 specials. 

But I really got confused over the whole thing.


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 30, 2010)

Modifiedmark said:


> Let us know how and if that works out. I had believed that a 55 jug would only fit on cetain later 50's or 50 specials.
> 
> But I really got confused over the whole thing.


 
I was also concerned about the same thing. I saw a listing on e-bay for a 46mm top end (53 cc) and it listed all of the model saws it would fit. Under the model 50s, it only listed the ones for 1989 and later as well as the 50 specials. Mine is a 1987 model but the bulkhead and intake boot looks the same.


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 30, 2010)

Roanoker494 said:


> All you will need is the larger piston and cylinder, everything else will swap over and work fine. Check out site sponsor Bailey's for a good deal on a aftermarket 46mm top end. Bailey's - NWP Cylinder Assembly for Husqvarna 50, 51, 55


 
Thanks for the link! I buy quite a bit from Baileys but I did not realize NWP was making this top end. And it is a little cheaper than the best price I have seen on e-bay. Looks like the impulse grommet and intake boot are the same for the older 50s and newer 55s. I think the kit will match up. Any thoughts on wether the older carb. will be sufficient to power the 53cc upgrade?


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## Roanoker494 (Dec 30, 2010)

Modifiedmark said:


> Let us know how and if that works out. I had believed that a 55 jug would only fit on cetain later 50's or 50 specials.
> 
> But I really got confused over the whole thing.


 
Now that you mention it I did run into a small issue when installing a "big bore" on a older model 50. I do not know the technical names for these parts and areas of the saw, so please bear with me. On the bottom of the cylinder there are "lips" that drop inside the top of the crankcase. The "lips" on the larger cc cylinder were thicker and would not fit inside the crankcase opening. I used a dremel, with a sanding drum, and it only took me a couple minutes to thin those "lips" down and everything went right together. The saw now has hundreds of hours on it with no issues.


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## Yoopermike (Dec 30, 2010)

Ive heard of that before.. I was curious to try it but. I already have a 51 and 55 in the arsenal. I will leave my 50's be 50's .


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 30, 2010)

Roanoker494 said:


> Now that you mention it I did run into a small issue when installing a "big bore" on a older model 50. I do not know the technical names for these parts and areas of the saw, so please bear with me. On the bottom of the cylinder there are "lips" that drop inside the top of the crankcase. The "lips" on the larger cc cylinder were thicker and would not fit inside the crankcase opening. I used a dremel, with a sanding drum, and it only took me a couple minutes to thin those "lips" down and everything went right together. The saw now has hundreds of hours on it with no issues.


 
I just hit the order button and placed an order with Baileys for the "big bore kit".....then read your post. I was thinking if there was any difference it might be the lower cranckcase opening. If you have had good luck with this method, I will try it. Seems simple enough to modify and I bought a new cylinder gasket to get a good seal. Did your kit come drilled and tapped for de-comp? Dad is in his early sixtys and has a lot of pain in his elbow. He might like the de-comp.


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 30, 2010)

Roanoker494 said:


> Now that you mention it I did run into a small issue when installing a "big bore" on a older model 50. I do not know the technical names for these parts and areas of the saw, so please bear with me. On the bottom of the cylinder there are "lips" that drop inside the top of the crankcase. The "lips" on the larger cc cylinder were thicker and would not fit inside the crankcase opening. I used a dremel, with a sanding drum, and it only took me a couple minutes to thin those "lips" down and everything went right together. The saw now has hundreds of hours on it with no issues.


 
That follows what I was thinking as per this Husqvarna service notice.


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## MechanicMatt (Dec 30, 2010)

i too am in the midst of rebuilding a 50. keep us all informed how it works out, my 50 is a 83, a bit older but she is a good looker.


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## Roanoker494 (Dec 31, 2010)

axlerod74 said:


> I just hit the order button and placed an order with Baileys for the "big bore kit".....then read your post. I was thinking if there was any difference it might be the lower cranckcase opening. If you have had good luck with this method, I will try it. Seems simple enough to modify and I bought a new cylinder gasket to get a good seal. Did your kit come drilled and tapped for de-comp? Dad is in his early sixtys and has a lot of pain in his elbow. He might like the de-comp.


 
I actually installed a used OEM 45mm model 51 top end, so I can not say if the aftermarket one has a decomp. I looked in the FAQ on the Baileys parts and it seem it does have a decomp, along with a plug in case you do not want to use it. From what Baileys is telling me this Aftermarket kits is made in such a way that it should fit any 50-55 model Husqvarna saw, like a universal mount.


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 31, 2010)

Modifiedmark said:


> That follows what I was thinking as per this Husqvarna service notice.


 
Thanks for the research Mark. I will take some measurements when I pull the head off and compare to your file. The kit description on Baileys indicated it would fit the model 50 but that may not take into account the older models before the service notice.


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 31, 2010)

Roanoker494 said:


> I actually installed a used OEM 45mm model 51 top end, so I can not say if the aftermarket one has a decomp. I looked in the FAQ on the Baileys parts and it seem it does have a decomp, along with a plug in case you do not want to use it. From what Baileys is telling me this Aftermarket kits is made in such a way that it should fit any 50-55 model Husqvarna saw, like a universal mount.


 
This kit has a 46mm top end but I believe the tabs going into the crankcase would have the same outside diameter. Judging by the service notice modifiedmake sent, looks like I might have to grind off about 2mm (at least on the OEM kits). Do you recall if you had to grind that much off your project? Thanks for the info.


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## vw_motorsports (Dec 31, 2010)

I had a 50 and put a 55 cylinder on it ran nice. The other thing I would upgrade to is the complete carb and top cover from a 51/55. Much better choke setup than the 50 setup...and essentially you'll have a 55 at this point. If the bigger jug's skirts fits inside the case...the other thing is the 50 does not have the cast bosses for the air injection, well my 50 didn't have them. The impluse grommet you can use some silicone vacuum hose from the automotive side.


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 31, 2010)

vw_motorsports said:


> I had a 50 and put a 55 cylinder on it ran nice. The other thing I would upgrade to is the complete carb and top cover from a 51/55. Much better choke setup than the 50 setup...and essentially you'll have a 55 at this point. If the bigger jug's skirts fits inside the case...the other thing is the 50 does not have the cast bosses for the air injection, well my 50 didn't have them. The impluse grommet you can use some silicone vacuum hose from the automotive side.


 
This 50 does not have air injection however it is only lacking the cast bosses and air horn. The bulkhead does not have the hole for the horn to pass through either. I definately like the choke better on the 55s. Right now I don't have the spare parts for the complete 55 conversion. If I can get Dad back to cutting firewood, I think he will be happy. I loaned him my 55 while I was working on the 50 and he loves it...................I may not get it back!


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## Axlerod74 (Dec 31, 2010)

I pulled the 44mm cylinder off and compaired it to an old 46mm (from a 55 husqvarna) that I had. The 46mm is noticably larger at the bottom. If the one from Baileys is the same size, it will certainly take some modifying.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 1, 2011)

lwhaples said:


> Have the bigger jug and piston on it's way from Baileys.Nice light saw,soon to be 53 CC. Good Luck!


 
Is your 50 older (pre 91)? Any crankcase issues?


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 1, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> Now that you mention it I did run into a small issue when installing a "big bore" on a older model 50. I do not know the technical names for these parts and areas of the saw, so please bear with me. On the bottom of the cylinder there are "lips" that drop inside the top of the crankcase. The "lips" on the larger cc cylinder were thicker and would not fit inside the crankcase opening. I used a dremel, with a sanding drum, and it only took me a couple minutes to thin those "lips" down and everything went right together. The saw now has hundreds of hours on it with no issues.


 
What year was your 50 produced?


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## lwhaples (Jan 1, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Is your 50 older (pre 91)? Any crankcase issues?


 
Yes,older.The bottom seems fine. Should get the jug next week,so I'll see if I went the wrong way.


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## Roanoker494 (Jan 1, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> What year was your 50 produced?


 I can not say for sure because I gave it to my landlord after I fixed it, he had given it to me first because of the top end damage. I will check my pictures when I get home, I may have a photo of the serial number.


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## SawTroll (Jan 1, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> I pulled the 44mm cylinder off and compaired it to an old 46mm (from a 55 husqvarna) that I had. The 46mm is noticably larger at the bottom. If the one from Baileys is the same size, it will certainly take some modifying.



Yes, there was a change to the case in 1989 week 19, when the 50 Special came out - the 51 and 53cc cylinders don't fit the older saws.


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## Stihl Crazy (Jan 1, 2011)

Which would be the best route, open the case or turn down the sleeve to fit?
Got a few 50's and P5000's that I want to put 55 cyl's on.


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## Roanoker494 (Jan 1, 2011)

Stihl Crazy said:


> Which would be the best route, open the case or turn down the sleeve to fit? Got a few 50's and P5000's that I want to put 55 cyl's on.


 In my opinon it is easier to work on the cylinder. Working on the case will involve metal shavings inside the crankcase and into your bearing.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> In my opinon it is easier to work on the cylinder. Working on the case will involve metal shavings inside the crankcase and into your bearing.


 
Did the bolt holes line up and were they the same size fasteners?


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## Roanoker494 (Jan 1, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> Did the bolt holes line up and were they the same size fasteners?


 The bolt holes did line up and the bolts were the same size. The only thing I forgot to mention is to make sure you take equal amounts of material off each "lip", could end up with all kinds of problems otherwise. The saw I worked on was one of the later black top models, can not say if it can be done on the early white top ones.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 1, 2011)

Stihl Crazy said:


> Which would be the best route, open the case or turn down the sleeve to fit?
> Got a few 50's and P5000's that I want to put 55 cyl's on.


 
what are you doing with the old P5000 cylinders and pistons??? And how scored are they??


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 1, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> The bolt holes did line up and the bolts were the same size. The only thing I forgot to mention is to make sure you take equal amounts of material off each "lip", could end up with all kinds of problems otherwise. The saw I worked on was one of the later black top models, can not say if it can be done on the early white top ones.


 

God only knows I have done my share of redneck modifications, but if theres alot of material too take off, sounds like putting it on a mandrel in a lathe might be a good idea. 

No doubt if its not alot and your careful you can do it without one though.


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## Winn R (Jan 1, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> , but if theres alot of material too take off, sounds like putting it on a mandrel in a lathe might be a good idea.



I've done the case instead.

It's 1mm off the case all the way around. The new cylinder can be held with the bolts on the case, dykem sprayed around it. It still takes a little scribing but magnesium removal is easy up to the line.

Stuff the case with rags and wash well.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 1, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> Yes, there was a change to the case in 1989 week 19, when the 50 Special came out - the 51 and 53cc cylinders don't fit the older saws.


 
I'll try to be brief here but this is what I have found out so far. My 50 (gray top) is a 1987 model with the 44mm piston and cylinder. I took the piston and cylinder off to get a good measurement with calipers. The crankcase opening comes out to aproximately 50.6mm diameter. According to the service file that modified mark sent earlier (thanks again Mark, this has been very helpful) that should be plenty big enough to fit the 46mm upgrade. Intrestingly enough, according to the service file, my serial # 7160XXX should fit well into the older models that should have the smaller 48.5mm opening. The saw is all original and my Dad is the original owner so no funny business there. So I found an old 46mm cylinder (scoured) off a 55 that I had for a parts saw (1995 model) and compared the bottom cylinder openings of the two. The 46mm was noticably larger at the base. I slid the 46mm down over the connecting rod on the 50 case and it dropped right in. Then I checked the bolt hole pattern and all 4 cylinder bolts matched up. Not sure why there is a discripency in the serial number info from the service file or year of production info that sawtroll sent. I am now very optimistic that the NWP 53cc upgrade kit ordered from Baileys will probably fit. I'll let you know when I find out more.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 1, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> Did the bolt holes line up and were they the same size fasteners?


 
On mine both saws had the same size fasteners............the 55 had 4mm allen head and 50 has 5\16 hex head fasteners but same length and thread.


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## Roanoker494 (Jan 2, 2011)

The serial number on my saw was 5155017, sliver tag. I believe that translates to 1985 week 15. My landlord bought the saw new and his son straight gassed it along about the third tank. I installed a used 51 top end and a new bar/chain then gave it back to him around Christmas time.


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## Stihl Crazy (Jan 2, 2011)

MechanicMatt said:


> what are you doing with the old P5000 cylinders and pistons??? And how scored are they??



They were part saws that I picked up with no cyls or pistons.


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## SawTroll (Jan 2, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> I'll try to be brief here but this is what I have found out so far. My 50 (gray top) is a 1987 model with the 44mm piston and cylinder. I took the piston and cylinder off to get a good measurement with calipers. The crankcase opening comes out to aproximately 50.6mm diameter. According to the service file that modified mark sent earlier (thanks again Mark, this has been very helpful) that should be plenty big enough to fit the 46mm upgrade. Intrestingly enough, according to the service file, my serial # 7160XXX should fit well into the older models that should have the smaller 48.5mm opening. The saw is all original and my Dad is the original owner so no funny business there. So I found an old 46mm cylinder (scoured) off a 55 that I had for a parts saw (1995 model) and compared the bottom cylinder openings of the two. The 46mm was noticably larger at the base.  I slid the 46mm down over the connecting rod on the 50 case and it dropped right in. Then I checked the bolt hole pattern and all 4 cylinder bolts matched up. Not sure why there is a discripency in the serial number info from the service file or year of production info that sawtroll sent. I am now very optimistic that the NWP 53cc upgrade kit ordered from Baileys will probably fit. I'll let you know when I find out more.



What I have the info from is a 1990-01 service bulletin, that state the serial number for the change as 9190006 (= early in week 19 1989), and I know no more about the issue.

It is very odd that they issued a service bulletin on it, if it isn't an issue - maybe the aftermarket cylinder is specially made to fit both the newer and the older case?


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 2, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> The serial number on my saw was 5155017, sliver tag. I believe that translates to 1985 week 15. My landlord bought the saw new and his son straight gassed it along about the third tank. I installed a used 51 top end and a new bar/chain then gave it back to him around Christmas time.
> 
> 
> Looks identical to mine except my chain brake lever is grey and serial tag is black. Thanks for the pics.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 2, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> What I have the info from is a 1990-01 service bulletin, that state the serial number for the change as 9190006 (= early in week 19 1989), and I know no more about the issue.
> 
> It is very odd that they issued a service bulletin on it, if it isn't an issue - maybe the aftermarket cylinder is specially made to fit both the newer and the older case?


 
Thanks for the info. My serial #7160181 looks like 1987, early in week 16 (if i"m reading that right).


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 2, 2011)

Anytime aftermarket pistons are used, the reliability of aftermarket circlips comes into question. Anyone used the NWP kits before that can comment on their circlips? Any secrets to the orientation of the circlips for most reliability when installing?


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 4, 2011)

I wish i knew how to link this thread into the one captain crunch needs to see but hopefully he'll find it now that it is on the first page.:hmm3grin2orange:


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## Captain Crunch (Jan 4, 2011)

Matt,
I a'm here, thanks for the link. Rep sent. 

The 50 on my bench is a 45 mm bore, s/n 0311318, black tag. Not sure what year that would be. 

The bottom of the cylinder on this one, and a 1999 55 measure 49.96 mm, so pretty close to the service bulletin. 

Good info, I will track this as I get ready to pull the trigger on my project. It seems this series of saws is worth the effort even though some look down on anything not a "pro" saw.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 5, 2011)

Captain Crunch said:


> Matt,
> I a'm here, thanks for the link. Rep sent.
> 
> The 50 on my bench is a 45 mm bore, s/n 0311318, black tag. Not sure what year that would be.
> ...


 
Definately worth rebuilding especially for general fire wood cutting and property maint'. Metal crankcase lasts and lasts and is rebuildable. Many parts interchange with Husqvarna 51 and 55 so lots of parts available. Most professionals may prefer a more powerful saw but hard to beat for the average guy.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 5, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Definately worth rebuilding especially for general fire wood cutting and property maint'. Metal crankcase lasts and lasts and is rebuildable. Many parts interchange with Husqvarna 51 and 55 so lots of parts available. Most professionals may prefer a more powerful saw but hard to beat for the average guy.


 
I LOVE these saws. I think it is optimal all around saw, it will keep pace with my 026 and cost half as much


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 11, 2011)

*Follow up*

I recieved the NWP p/c from Bailey's and first impressions are good. Looks like good quality and a very close match to OEM cylinder. This model is drilled and tapped for de-comp valve (not included) and a plug is included if you chose not to add de-comp. Piston looks good and ring has a narrow groove in the center. Measurements on circumfrence at the bottom of cylinder are 50.0mm. Exactly match OEM 55. Crankcase opening on Husqvarna 50 is 51.6mm and the cylinder drops right in (only 1.6mm clearance but no problems there). Haven't bolted it on yet, only test fit. I see no problems with this upgrade fitting. I somehow got lucky that this older crankcase had the larger opening. I will add more as things progress.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 11, 2011)

lwhaples said:


> Yes,older.The bottom seems fine. Should get the jug next week,so I'll see if I went the wrong way.


 
Any progress on yours so far?


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 11, 2011)

*Carb rebuild*

Axle, you might want to invest in a carb rebuild kit. Its cheap insurance, and while you have the saw apart making the top end NEW why not freshen the carb up too. I did the carb the same time i did the big bore on my 362xp, the kits average $10. Good luck and keep us posted on when you finally fire the old girl up.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 11, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> I recieved the NWP p/c from Bailey's and first impressions are good. Looks like good quality and a very close match to OEM cylinder. This model is drilled and tapped for de-comp valve (not included) and a plug is included if you chose not to add de-comp. Piston looks good and ring has a narrow groove in the center. Measurements on circumfrence at the bottom of cylinder are 50.0mm. Exactly match OEM 55. Crankcase opening on Husqvarna 50 is 51.6mm and the cylinder drops right in (only 1.6mm clearance but no problems there). Haven't bolted it on yet, only test fit. I see no problems with this upgrade fitting. I somehow got lucky that this older crankcase had the larger opening. I will add more as things progress.


 
Thanks for the update.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 11, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> Thanks for the update.


 
Mark,
On another note, I have been in intrested in a few of the Poulan Pro saws and I have read a few of your posts on them. I was hoping to ask you for a little insight since you seem to have quite a bit of experience with these models. I have been running a Husqvarna in the 59-60cc range for cutting my bigger firewood and have since gained an appreciation for this class of saw. I have looked at a few Poulans to see what is out there and I saw an older post of yours about the PP 365. What are your general thoughts on handling, power, and performance on the hardwoods (esp. bigger oaks)? My husqvarna seems to have a lot of low end torque and pulls a 20-24 inch bar no problem (24 would be the biggest though). I would like to experiment with some other saws in the 60cc range and you can occasionally find a Poulan that won't break the bank. I guy I work with bought a PP 330 when Tractor Supply started clearanced them last year and he loves his. THe PP 365 seems like it would be a step in the right direction..........................any thoughts would be appreciated.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 11, 2011)

MechanicMatt said:


> Axle, you might want to invest in a carb rebuild kit. Its cheap insurance, and while you have the saw apart making the top end NEW why not freshen the carb up too. I did the carb the same time i did the big bore on my 362xp, the kits average $10. Good luck and keep us posted on when you finally fire the old girl up.


 
I rebuilt the carb last week with a complete kit. Most gaskets and diaphrams were good but replaced them anyway. The K10-WAT kit was about $9 and the needle valve was starting to show a ring. Dad has probably done a gasket kit before years ago but the inside needed a good cleaning anyway. That is good advice though.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 11, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Mark,
> On another note, I have been in intrested in a few of the Poulan Pro saws and I have read a few of your posts on them. I was hoping to ask you for a little insight since you seem to have quite a bit of experience with these models. I have been running a Husqvarna in the 59-60cc range for cutting my bigger firewood and have since gained an appreciation for this class of saw. I have looked at a few Poulans to see what is out there and I saw an older post of yours about the PP 365. What are your general thoughts on handling, power, and performance on the hardwoods (esp. bigger oaks)? My husqvarna seems to have a lot of low end torque and pulls a 20-24 inch bar no problem (24 would be the biggest though). I would like to experiment with some other saws in the 60cc range and you can occasionally find a Poulan that won't break the bank. I guy I work with bought a PP 330 when Tractor Supply started clearanced them last year and he loves his. THe PP 365 seems like it would be a step in the right direction..........................any thoughts would be appreciated.


 
I love my Poulan Pro 365. Not the lightest, not the fastest but just feels good the way its laid out, and runs pretty darn good. The choke, throttle lock and off switch are laid out in the most sensable way that I know of. I run a 20" 3/8s on it and it pulls it well. 

I also have a Poulan Pro 330 that I like as well. 

The 330 has a bigger carb stock and isn't much behind the 365. I have had 330 style carb here for some time that I want to try on the 365, but just have not had time. Other projects have got in the way. 

If you can find a Super 380 or a 3750 there also 60cc and have the better filter setup on them like the 330 has. 

The only thing I don't like about this series is the A041 bar mount on them, no really good bars are made in 3/8's for them. I have a modified small Husky K095 mount on my 330 right now and it works fine. 

I also have a Husky 262XP and while the Poulan wont outrun it, it feels better and is a little smoother. At the end of the day the 365 will not have much less wood in the truck.

Since your in East KY , if you ever get a chance to hook up with Mopar Mike, try to get him to let you run his souped up some Poulan Pro 365. Its a runner.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 11, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> I love my Poulan Pro 365. Not the lightest, not the fastest but just feels good the way its laid out, and runs pretty darn good. The choke, throttle lock and off switch are laid out in the most sensable way that I know of. I run a 20" 3/8s on it and it pulls it well.
> 
> I also have a Poulan Pro 330 that I like as well.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for the info. I have never seen the Super 380 or 3750 before but I will start looking. I try to get a lot of bar and chain needs from Bailey's and I noticed too that they carry very little for bars on the PP 330 and others. If I find a good saw at the right price, I may ask you more about how you modified the K095 mount. Was it simply a oiler hole mod or mount mod? Gizzard had just mentioned the 3750 to me in an earlier conversation and that sounds like it would be worth checking out. I saw some pics you had posted of your 365 while doing a search on the model. Yours looks to be in great condition. Thanks again for the info.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 11, 2011)

I have been following this as I have been wondering about the 55 cy on a Partner 500 saw. 

Short of pulling them down I compared the Husky 50 that I had to a Partner that I have. The Partner needs a threaded boss on the right side of the cyl for the upper handle mount to bolt to. 

The 50 cyl had that threaded boss even though it was not used on it. 

Does the 55 cyl have it as well? As you can tell I know nothing first hand on a 55. 







I liked the 50 that I had but ended up trading it reluctently for a older saw I had been looking for that was much harder to find. It's new owner tells me that he is very happy with it though.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 11, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Thanks for the info. I have never seen the Super 380 or 3750 before but I will start looking. I try to get a lot of bar and chain needs from Bailey's and I noticed too that they carry very little for bars on the PP 330 and others. If I find a good saw at the right price, I may ask you more about how you modified the K095 mount. Was it simply a oiler hole mod or mount mod? Gizzard had just mentioned the 3750 to me in an earlier conversation and that sounds like it would be worth checking out. I saw some pics you had posted of your 365 while doing a search on the model. Yours looks to be in great condition. Thanks again for the info.


 
The 3750 is virtually the same saw as a Super 380 far as I can tell. The bar mod is very simple.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 12, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> I have been following this as I have been wondering about the 55 cy on a Partner 500 saw.
> 
> Short of pulling them down I compared the Husky 50 that I had to a Partner that I have. The Partner needs a threaded boss on the right side of the cyl for the upper handle mount to bolt to.
> 
> ...


 
The OEM 50 and OEM 55 both have the threaded boss and so does the NWP. The NWP is slightly different as it does not show that raised vertical rib on the right edge of the boss but looks the same otherwise and should fill the same prupose. I will try to get a picture up later.


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## Ganz (Jan 12, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> I have been following this as I have been wondering about the 55 cy on a Partner 500 saw.
> 
> Short of pulling them down I compared the Husky 50 that I had to a Partner that I have. The Partner needs a threaded boss on the right side of the cyl for the upper handle mount to bolt to.
> 
> ...


 
As the new owner of Mark's saw he's right I am VERY happy with this saw. If something would ever happen to it I'll be looking at this mod though.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 12, 2011)

Ganz said:


> As the new owner of Mark's saw he's right I am VERY happy with this saw. If something would ever happen to it I'll be looking at this mod though.


 
Well, looky here! Where you been? 

Glad to see you around and that nice little Husky is still kicking!


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 12, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> The OEM 50 and OEM 55 both have the threaded boss and so does the NWP. The NWP is slightly different as it does not show that raised vertical rib on the right edge of the boss but looks the same otherwise and should fill the same prupose. I will try to get a picture up later.


 

i suspected that it would have the boss on it since I found out Bo's Partner 543 use's a Husqvarna 55 top end on it. 

Thanks for verifying it though.


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## Ganz (Jan 12, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> Well, looky here! Where you been?
> 
> Glad to see you around and that nice little Husky is still kicking!


 
Mostly lurking bud, do a lot more reading than typing. Good to hear from you as well!


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## slipknot (Jan 12, 2011)

wigglesworth said:


> Do yourself a favor, and replace the intake boot, impulse grommet and the fuel line, if not, you will most likely be replacing the P&C again......


 
Listen to this guy....very valuable info here....e-10 gas makes all the rubber parts very hard and which will result in an air leak. solid insurance anyways.


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## lwhaples (Jan 12, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Any progress on yours so far?


 
Yes, Got it back together last night. Ended up putting more into it,AV mounts, trigger,throttle control rod,kill switch,and rubbers for the intake.All gotten from my Jonsereds Dealer. Nice saw,need to sharpen the chain and get some run time.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 13, 2011)

View attachment 168196
View attachment 168197
View attachment 168198
View attachment 168199


Here is last nights progress. Everything went together pretty well. One note of intrest: all bolts going into case on this older saw have hex heads for a 5\16 socket instead of the later 4mm allen heads that Husqvarna later went to. When bolting down the cylinder, the casting holes in the new NWP were about 1.5mm smaller diameter than the holes in the OEM 44mm cylinder. I was unable to fit my smallest 1\4 drive socket through the holes. Luckily i had a 55 parts saw on hand and the 4mm allen bolts matched perfectly. The casting holes on the NWP do match the size of the OEM 46mm (from a 55 rancher) which it is designed to replace.


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 13, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> View attachment 168196
> View attachment 168197
> View attachment 168198
> View attachment 168199
> ...


 
Ill have to keep the bolts in mind if I have to order a 55 big bore for my 50. Ive been waiting for 3 freakin weeks now for my piston ring to come from ebay. Im starting to wish i had payed a little extra and ordered it from baileys, it would've been here two weeks ago.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 13, 2011)

Good update on the bolts, most (me anyway) wouldn't have thought about that till it arrived. 

That decomp position on that cyl isn't in a reall nice spot for a Partner. Right behind the upper side mount for the front handle. Looks like it would clear if the plug was used though.


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## wigglesworth (Jan 13, 2011)

MechanicMatt said:


> Ive been waiting for 3 freakin weeks now for my piston ring to come from ebay. Im starting to wish i had payed a little extra and ordered it from baileys, it would've been here two weeks ago.


 
Did you order it from Greece? I just got a ring for my 490 in less than a week.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 13, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> Good update on the bolts, most (me anyway) wouldn't have thought about that till it arrived.
> 
> That decomp position on that cyl isn't in a reall nice spot for a Partner. Right behind the upper side mount for the front handle. Looks like it would clear if the plug was used though.
> 
> I installed the plug today and it looks like it would clear that side mount...........barely. The only thing protruding is the hex head of the plug. It is the size of a 13mm socket. Put a new fuel line and filter on this afternoon, all the covers and added gas and oil. After a couple adjustments to the low and idle screws on the carb, it cranked right up. I have only ran it for a few minutes (no wood yet) but it sounds and feels great. So far, I have no complaints on the NWP kits and the aftermartket price is much better than OEM. I will probably run it slightly rich on the high screw for now and let everything seat well before really opening it up.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 13, 2011)

MechanicMatt said:


> Ill have to keep the bolts in mind if I have to order a 55 big bore for my 50. Ive been waiting for 3 freakin weeks now for my piston ring to come from ebay. Im starting to wish i had payed a little extra and ordered it from baileys, it would've been here two weeks ago.


 
I ordered a Golf piston and ring from e-bay and it was here in 2 days. Bailey's usually takes about 7 business days but I always need a chain or filter or something to make the order worth while.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 13, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Modifiedmark said:
> 
> 
> > Good update on the bolts, most (me anyway) wouldn't have thought about that till it arrived.
> ...


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## lwhaples (Jan 13, 2011)

MechanicMatt said:


> Ill have to keep the bolts in mind if I have to order a 55 big bore for my 50. Ive been waiting for 3 freakin weeks now for my piston ring to come from ebay. Im starting to wish i had payed a little extra and ordered it from baileys, it would've been here two weeks ago.


 
I used a 8mm 1/4 drive socket,that was only snug on one hole.Sucks waiting on parts!


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 13, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> axlerod74 said:
> 
> 
> > Sounds good.
> ...


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 13, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Modifiedmark said:
> 
> 
> > It would be no problen to grind with a grinder. The plug head is not exceptionally thick, maybe 3\16" - 1\4". I can get a measurement on clearance tomorrow and maybe a finished picture.
> ...


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 13, 2011)

I need to find a better way to attach pics so that they open up automatically. Today's pics were my first attempt and I will get the hang of it. When I replaced the fuel line, I used some yellow Oregon line. Slightly bigger O.D. and slightly smaller I.D. Made a good seal through the tank and a good snug fit on filter and carb. Heard mixed reviews on the Oregon line but I have used it on 2 saws with no problems yet. 
These older walbro WA 82A carbs seem a little fickle on the low screw. This one I had to set 1 3\4 turn out. Any more or any less and it would not run. But at that setting, throttle response is good and ilde is smooth.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 13, 2011)

lwhaples said:


> I used a 8mm 1/4 drive socket,that was only snug on one hole.Sucks waiting on parts!


 
Did not try metric at all. My local hardware store carries a lot of 4mm allen head screws. It would have worked either way but with teh old parts saw, I was able to get it locked down right then. Any trouble getting the bolts tight enough with the 8mm?


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## MechanicMatt (Jan 13, 2011)

wigglesworth said:


> Did you order it from Greece? I just got a ring for my 490 in less than a week.


 
Wiggs, its coming from singapore. Its only been 11 days, it just feels like three weeks. The estimated shipping says 1-20 to 2-2 it should arrive, I CAN NOT WAIT. I don't want to dremmel my cylinder anymore and have just about finished the pipe for it. When she blows up I think Im just gonna put a 55 top end on her and a modded forester muffler. Any body know how to make a freakin mac load pics onto this site so i can show you guys this little saw??


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 14, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> axlerod74 said:
> 
> 
> > Yes I don't think it would be problem, I know how thick they are. Looking at the picture I think it would clear anyway.
> ...


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 14, 2011)

Here is another picture, finished product.


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## Ganz (Jan 14, 2011)

Very nice Axelrod let us know how it runs. Is that a 16" bar?


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## Yoopermike (Jan 14, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Here is another picture, finished product.


 
THATS TERRIBLE!!! you should immediately send it to me so I can properly dispose of it for you!( set it next to my 50's,would make a great addition! )  same with anyone else that has a saw like that.. ship em ALL to me so I can play er umm "dispose" of em properly


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 14, 2011)

Ganz said:


> Very nice Axelrod let us know how it runs. Is that a 16" bar?



It is a 16". That is all Dad ever ran on it (when it was a 48.9cc). Now that is is a 53cc he may step up to a 18" though. I ran it some today on a locust. Ran about like a Husqvarna 51 but I had the carb set pretty rich. After cutting through about 3\4 tank of gas, I leaned the carb just a tad (still has that nice burble on top end). RPMs jumped noticably and now sounds like it should. I am still being cautious with break in to keep it a little rich for a few tanks.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 14, 2011)

Yoopermike said:


> THATS TERRIBLE!!! you should immediately send it to me so I can properly dispose of it for you!( set it next to my 50's,would make a great addition! )  same with anyone else that has a saw like that.. ship em ALL to me so I can play er umm "dispose" of em properly


 
My Dad has cut firewood with this saw for 23 years......................he is expecting it back............soon. I'm sure you have found them to be good little runners as well.


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## lwhaples (Jan 14, 2011)

Your Dad should be happy! Nice looking saw for it's age.


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## Yoopermike (Jan 14, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> My Dad has cut firewood with this saw for 23 years......................he is expecting it back............soon. I'm sure you have found them to be good little runners as well.


 
yes! I love husky 50's .. sadly I only have 2 atm... wish I had more!


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 14, 2011)

lwhaples said:


> Your Dad should be happy! Nice looking saw for it's age.


 
Thanks, I think he will. I could tell he sounded pretty disappointed earlier this year when it went down on him. I think he will be suprised if it will run a 18'' well.


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## Yoopermike (Jan 14, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Thanks, I think he will. I could tell he sounded pretty disappointed earlier this year when it went down on him. I think he will be suprised if it will run a 18'' well.


 
I have an 18 on one of mine.. it handles fairly well


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 14, 2011)

Yoopermike said:


> yes! I love husky 50's .. sadly I only have 2 atm... wish I had more!


 
I noticed you have a Husky 266SE, what do you think about those? I saw one on e-bay recently that looked great and thought real hard about it.


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## Yoopermike (Jan 14, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> I noticed you have a Husky 266SE, what do you think about those? I saw one on e-bay recently that looked great and thought real hard about it.


 
well mines a lil tired iron atm ( awating a new piston ring) id pounce on it, there a really good, hearty saw at around 4.5 hp!


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 14, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Modifiedmark said:
> 
> 
> > Here is the de-comp plug pic.
> ...


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## Ganz (Jan 14, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Thanks, I think he will. I could tell he sounded pretty disappointed earlier this year when it went down on him. I think he will be suprised if it will run a 18'' well.


 
I run a 18' .325 full chisel on mine and I feel it does great with it.


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## Gizzard (Jan 14, 2011)

axlerod74 said:


> Thanks, I think he will. I could tell he sounded pretty disappointed earlier this year when it went down on him. I think he will be suprised if it will run a 18'' well.


 
I thought the saw ran and sounded fine cutting up that locust today. A 16" or 18" would be fine, but probably hard to change an older fellers mind after 23 years of running it one way. By the way, I dug out that fuel cap and it looks good to go. I'll get it to you Tuesday.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 15, 2011)

Gizzard said:


> I thought the saw ran and sounded fine cutting up that locust today. A 16" or 18" would be fine, but probably hard to change an older fellers mind after 23 years of running it one way. By the way, I dug out that fuel cap and it looks good to go. I'll get it to you Tuesday.


 
Thanks Gizzard. I plan to cut some tomorrow and see how the carb. adjustment helped it. I think it will pull a 18 fine and if Dad wants faster he could use the narrow kerf. If the husqvarna 49 will pull it well, I am sure his 50 will too.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 15, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> axlerod74 said:
> 
> 
> > I think that would clear on the Partner without any trouble.
> ...


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 16, 2011)

Cut some wood today. Started off easy on a small poplar to get the saw warmed up. With a 16" bar and .325 full chisel chain, the 10" poplar was loading the saw up a little as the engine was cold and wood fairly frozen (about 35 degrees here today). As the saw warmed up (about half a tank of gas) I began to notice it pick up a little power. I hit a dead and well seasoned mullbery next for some ready-to-burn-firewood and it cut well. I think as things get seated in it is only going to improve. So far, no complaints on the NWP kit and at almost 1\2 the price of OEM top end, I consider it a great deal to put new life in an old saw.


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## Yoopermike (Jan 17, 2011)

Do you still have the old top end?? was it scratched or was there aluminum transfer (galling)? you might have been able to save the old cyl if it was just galling with a little muriatic acid.


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## Axlerod74 (Jan 19, 2011)

Yoopermike said:


> Do you still have the old top end?? was it scratched or was there aluminum transfer (galling)? you might have been able to save the old cyl if it was just galling with a little muriatic acid.


 
I tried the muratic acid and 320 grit paper. Transferred AL cleaned up nicely only to reveal significant cylinder scouring. Old top end is toast.


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## MGoBlue (Feb 8, 2014)

Axlerod74 said:


> he sounded pretty disappointed earlier this year when it went down on him.



Axlerod, 1st wanna thank you for all the info on this thread. My father recently gave up on his '88 grey top 50 and bought a 435. He doesn't burn much wood anymore and gave the saw to me. After a few new parts (b/c, carb kit, pressure seal, fuel/air filters, plug...), I've discovered it has low compression, about 100psi. I'm researching these kits that you installed and wondered if there was a chance you could restore the lost images? I'd rather stay OE 44mm, but can't seem to find a reasonable kit.
TIA


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## Axlerod74 (Feb 8, 2014)

This is a NWP kit I bought from Baileys. It is a good kit however, I would use an OEM ring. The one in the kit had a fine groove around the ring. Seems to work fine but I would use the other. This kit came drilled and threaded for a de-comp. On the 50 th de-comp will interfere wth the handle and I was not able to use it


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## Axlerod74 (Feb 8, 2014)

I think OEM is the only 44mm kit available but notsure. The switch to the 46mm was a no brainer for me as it has more power. You could also use the 45mm kit from the 51 husqvarna but may be looking at only OEM there too.


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## MGoBlue (Feb 8, 2014)

Thanks! I don't want to spend a lot on this saw and the 46mm is $100. Might have to do. 

Someday my son will appreciate that it was his grandfathers and that's my main reason for a rebuild. I have the 357 for bigger stuff, so this was to be a limbing saw. The more questions I ask, the more details I get. May have been straight gassed or ran with a lean mix, ring was replaced but that's all. Apparently he loaned it out to a friend who didn't have much chainsaw experience. I'm going to post pics of the jug on a separate thread.


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## Axlerod74 (Nov 26, 2014)

Just an update on this old thread. I originally had trouble using the decomp as the brake handle on the model 50 clutch cover will interfered with it. You can install a clutch cover/brake handle from a 55 rancher and there is plenty of clearance for the decomp.


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## nmurph (Nov 26, 2014)

Modifiedmark said:


> That follows what I was thinking as per this Husqvarna service notice.



Mark, could you re-post this SB?


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## Axlerod74 (Nov 28, 2014)

nmurph said:


> Mark, could you re-post this SB?


I had this saved somewhere, I'll have to do some digging..............


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## Bob95065 (Nov 28, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


> Do yourself a favor, and replace the intake boot, impulse grommet and the fuel line, if not, you will most likely be replacing the P&C again......



Crank seals too. Don't mess around.


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## wigglesworth (Nov 28, 2014)

Bob95065 said:


> Crank seals too. Don't mess around.



Agreed. But it should be known that there is a special tool to remove the oil pump worm gear, and once it's off, that seal is a bastard.... I just split em...


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## Gypo Logger (Nov 28, 2014)

Before I get carried away and start ripping saws apart I need to ask some questions.
What chassis should I use 50, 51 or 55?
Also as Wiggs mentioned a P 5000 jug will work, but will a 5000 plus fit also?


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## wigglesworth (Nov 28, 2014)

Gypo Logger said:


> Before I get carried away and start ripping saws apart I need to ask some questions.
> What chassis should I use 50, 51 or 55?
> Also as Wiggs mentioned a P 5000 jug will work, but will a 5000 plus fit also?



Go drunk john, your home...


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## Gypo Logger (Nov 28, 2014)

wigglesworth said:


> Go drunk john, your home...


Your drunk? I don't understand.


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## AlexTheGrater (Jan 4, 2015)

Just put a Huztl 46mm barrel and piston on a 'tired' 50 with a scuffed piston, absolutely no problem, and it cost £30.00 on eBay, at that price it's astonishingly well made.


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