# Best fallin wedges?



## verticaltrx (Jan 26, 2010)

Just wondering what kind of wedges everyone likes, I'm about due for some new ones and want something good. I'm tired of these wedges I have that don't drive worth a s***. I'm mostly working with 20"-30" DBH trees, but occasionally some bigger ones, so I'll probably be looking for some wedges in the 10-12" range. I'm kinda looking at the double taper red head wedges from Baileys, but I'm undecided. Any input would be great.


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## joesawer (Jan 26, 2010)

Best is subjective.
I really like the red heads. but some times the hard head is better. and I keep a lot of orange Bailey's wedges around. They are pretty dang good and a lot cheaper if you are just going to be beating them up.


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## tramp bushler (Jan 27, 2010)

*Look in fallers wedge pouches .*





.I use 1, 15" , ,1,12" and 1 , 10" . I prefer the 12" to be a Hard Head .. I,ll have 1 or 2 toothed wedges if the timber is frozen ..


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## tramp bushler (Jan 27, 2010)

10" and 12" . 10" lifts easy , most of the time they are low rise . 12" have more bearing surface , they are a little harder to drive , but lift further ..


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## bitzer (Jan 27, 2010)

Great pics Tramp!

The Oregon toothed wedges are great for winter wood and they are pretty tough. They hold their place well in hardwoods, but don't drive real smooth. Don't buck with them though, they may not come back. Don't get the stihl wedges. The chip and break easily. 

Unless I order online those are really my only two options and damn the shops around here rape you on them. Its been a while since I had to buy any and I usually get them in bulk. I had to pick up two 8 in oregons this morning that cost me almost $28! I damn near dropped one in my pants. They wanted like $15 each for 10s and $18 each for 12s!


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## Oldtimer (Jan 27, 2010)

I like to use a big green Treefarmer C5D wedge.


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## 056 kid (Jan 27, 2010)

the 12'' red head ones are nice. Beter than the rifled ones that have the little lines across the tip so it breaks off after a month. thats what thery sell everywhere around you, well at most saw shops anyway. .


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## tramp bushler (Jan 27, 2010)

*That is a rip off*



bitzercreek1 said:


> Great pics Tramp!
> 
> The Oregon toothed wedges are great for winter wood and they are pretty tough. They hold their place well in hardwoods, but don't drive real smooth. Don't buck with them though, they may not come back. Don't get the stihl wedges. The chip and break easily.
> 
> Unless I order online those are really my only two options and damn the shops around here rape you on them. Its been a while since I had to buy any and I usually get them in bulk. I had to pick up two 8 in oregons this morning that cost me almost $28! I damn near dropped one in my pants. They wanted like $15 each for 10s and $18 each for 12s!


.

Ya , wait till Bailey's ,Wood's ,or Madsen's ect has wedges on sale and buy a case .. I bought a case of soft 10" med high rise Blue Ox wedges from Baileys in 1990 and I,m useing the last one this winter . It,s a little shorter than when it was new , but it still works ......Ya , get a case of 10" and a case of 12" hard plastic wedges , then get specials as you want .14$ a piece for 8" wedges is way too much .. It ain,t the shipping as I,m buying them here for the scalper price of 12.00$ each..


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## tramp bushler (Jan 27, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> I like to use a big green Treefarmer C5D wedge.


.

NO. Just , NO !


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## 056 kid (Jan 27, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> I like to use a big green Treefarmer C5D wedge.



Cause thats the most powerful skidder around:spam:


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## Burvol (Jan 27, 2010)

I think the K&H Red Heads have the most lifting combined with longevity. Double tapers are nice in warm weather, but break when cold or not hit square. The Bananna Ramma 15" yellow DT is a must!


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## Oldtimer (Jan 27, 2010)

056 kid said:


> Cause thats the most powerful skidder around:spam:



It's the skidder that will start and pull wood when the rest are being parted out. The word of the day is Deutz...
What skidder do you run?


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## Oldtimer (Jan 27, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> .
> 
> NO. Just , NO !



Why's that? I don't work the side of a 11,000' Mt. cutting 5' DBA wood.
I work alone, in the mixed stands of hard and softwood. If I wasted time with a wedge on every tree that wasn't leaning the right way I'd never make a dime. Pull the machine up, push into the tree a bit, lock the brake, get out, notch and back-cut it leaving a good hinge, get in, and nudge it. If you think it's dangerous, it can be if you're not experienced. I've done it almost 20 years now, all alone. I know what I'm doing.


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## 371groundie (Jan 27, 2010)

you tell em old timer! i bet youve got a tree pusher welded on the top of your fairlead too.

i can do it. ive done it enough i can do it as safely as it can be done. but i dont usually. i drive out and drop as many trees as i can without fear of loosing one. then commence to twitchin. 

my cousin will notch and backcut 5, 6, 8 trees that set back on him, then back into the first one and play dominoes. not for me!


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## verticaltrx (Jan 27, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. 

So I guess the double taper wedges get a better seat in the wood before they really do most of the lifting, correct? I can see how they would be easier to break however. All I've ever used were single taper, but would like to try some other options. 

I agree on the comment on the Stihl wedges, I couldn't believe how crappy they were considering the price.


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## 056 kid (Jan 27, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> It's the skidder that will start and pull wood when the rest are being parted out. The word of the day is Deutz...
> What skidder do you run?



Ive run TJ 380s, a TJ 450, a Cat 440, & some old franklin(only one ive run with a stick. .) ive cut trees under 20dbh that you could not get to commit with the 450. . . . . Now when your in big 30/40''+dbh stuff no where near a skid road on a steep grade, how are you gonna push the tree with _any_ skidder? let alone a little red ant like the tree farmer. .

so, the red heads are pretty good, then again, you can trash a wedge in minutes if you cant hit it right.....


What is the difference between single taper & double taper, the extra bevle on the tip of the wedge?


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## tramp bushler (Jan 28, 2010)

*which state is the Pine tree state ?*

I,ve been wanting to ask that for some time now ......Now Old Timer, don,t get all mad ...I,m not into having iron help fall timber .....by and large it is totally un necessary . And I,ve skidder logged in Maine ,and have pushed over trees with a wheel skidder ......
.
.It,s one thing that separates a timber faller from a logger ......
.
Not interested in an argument ,nor implying you don,t know your business . But you would get more wood to the landing if you did your falling , then did your loggin ....... It is alot more efficient . and alot more fun .

. Tho there are certain select logging senarios where pushing a tree over may be handy .. With a bit of thot almost 100 % of your timber can be fell with just your brain and a power saw ,I sure don,t pound over every tree I fall ............... in a 6 1/2 or 7 hour day of cutting timber , I may only wedge over 4 or 5 trees , out of 40 - 80 numbers .....
.


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## isaaccarlson (Jan 28, 2010)

*i use those yelloy oregon toothed wedges....*

the ones that were in "that other" thread. Never had any problems with em.....I just used one on a 26" oak yesterday......worked like a charm. $3.00 a piece at fleet farm.


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## tramp bushler (Jan 28, 2010)

Isaac ; we need to steer Blitzer to that place , poor guy is loosing all his ot pay on out of this world expensive wedges


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## bitzer (Jan 28, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> Isaac ; we need to steer Blitzer to that place , poor guy is loosing all his ot pay on out of this world expensive wedges



The $3.00 a piece ones are 5.5 inches. They are at Menards too for the same if not a better price. If you want anything larger than that you have to pay for them around here. Oregon sells the 5.5"ers in blister packs to the box stores so they can drop the price considerably. The larger Oregon wedges are sold by dozens to saw shops. ALL of the saw shops around here are expensive with everything. I just ordered some 8s, 10s, and 12s from the shop my boss has an account at. I think I will be putting some on his tab for a while instead of shelling for my own.


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## 48"BAR PINCHER (Jan 28, 2010)

I run 12" Blue OX. I've used Oregons, Stihls, etc.... These Blues are holding up the best so far. Never tried those red heads.


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## tramp bushler (Jan 28, 2010)

*Where do you find the Blue Ox wedges ????????*

Are they Hard or soft plastic ... My blue ox wedges drove real easy , I like them ....


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## Oldtimer (Jan 28, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> I,ve been wanting to ask that for some time now ......Now Old Timer, don,t get all mad ...I,m not into having iron help fall timber .....by and large it is totally un necessary . And I,ve skidder logged in Maine ,and have pushed over trees with a wheel skidder ......
> .
> .It,s one thing that separates a timber faller from a logger ......
> .
> ...



You're right, I don't have to push many, maybe 5 out of 100. I do tend to chop and limb for a day, then twitch.


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## Industry (Jan 28, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> Which state is the Pine Tree State?
> I,ve been wanting to ask that for some time now .....
> .



Maine.
For the small stuff I usually deal with the 5.5" Orange ones work well.


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## 48"BAR PINCHER (Jan 28, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> Are they Hard or soft plastic ... My blue ox wedges drove real easy , I like them ....



Hard plastic. Got them at Madsens. I do a lot of resi take downs so a log skidder is not an option for me. My wedges get used alot


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## tramp bushler (Jan 29, 2010)

Industry said:


> Maine.
> For the small stuff I usually deal with the 5.5" Orange ones work well.


.

.I should have known that ...Thanks ..


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## dingeryote (Jan 29, 2010)

isaaccarlson said:


> the ones that were in "that other" thread. Never had any problems with em.....I just used one on a 26" oak yesterday......worked like a charm. $3.00 a piece at fleet farm.



isaac,

I used a couple just yesterday. I bought 'em for the teeth. Paid about double what you did though! LOL!

Long story short, they don't hold up well for me, but they DON'T go spitting out on long dead standing cherry that has a bunch of crap falling from up top and ya can't afford to look at the stupid wedge! LOL!
I'm gonna keep a couple just for that reason.

Just wish they didn't crack,split, and mushroom as bad.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## 056 kid (Jan 29, 2010)

hit em squarer


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## dingeryote (Jan 29, 2010)

056 kid said:


> hit em squarer



LOL!!!

Easier said than done while looking/waiting for the next bit of trash to come down.


Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## RandyMac (Jan 29, 2010)

What are you smacking them with?


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## dingeryote (Jan 29, 2010)

RandyMac said:


> What are you smacking them with?



Plain old Axe. Mostly off center, but sometimes with the edges of the butt on those trees, and not real hard either. Just enough to get lift and not shake things up too bad or inspire more junk coming loose while trying to respect an iffy hinge. 

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


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## RandyMac (Jan 29, 2010)

Plain old axes are good.


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## tramp bushler (Jan 29, 2010)

*Rafting axes .*

For those who don,t know a rafting ax was designed for building and breaking down log rafts , flat and bundle rafts .....
However they are the perfect modern day fallers axe . the 5 lb rafting ax has a good heavy poll and just the right size bit .the 5 lb steers better for wedging than the 4 lb or 3 1/2 lb . the bit of the 4 and 5 lb is the same size but the poll (hammer end) of the head is larger ....... I had a 5 lb ax one time that I kept breaking off wedges with ......... I would get freakin out mad breaking off new 12" double taper wedges .. every tree I had to wedge I broke a wedge off in ....Finally in enraged desperation I looked closely at the poll and saw it had been ground with a very obvious angle on the striking face ... It was like as if when I would hit the wedge I was hitting it on a very down ward angle even tho i was swinging for straight on ... I ground like almost 1/4th " off one side ( the high side ) of the head and didn,t break or beat up another wedge till I lost that ax ......
. If you are using a Jersey Axe with the rounded poll YOU WILL BREAK AND RUIN PLASTIC WEDGES .........
.
. The poll needs to be 90 degrees to the bit and the handle both ways .longitudinally and perpendicular "lengthwise and cross wise " ........


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## bitzer (Jan 29, 2010)

dingeryote said:


> isaac,
> 
> I used a couple just yesterday. I bought 'em for the teeth. Paid about double what you did though! LOL!
> 
> ...



They do mushroom some, but the funny thing is sometimes if you put them on the stump afterwards you can pound them back straight! With the cold temps this winter (-2F this morning) I've been snappin wedges left and right. I'd only broken 2 all last year. They do hold well in frozen wood. You can get an extra smack or two out of them over a plain wedge. That could be why they can get to chippin and mushrooming faster.


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## tramp bushler (Jan 29, 2010)

*You guys putting enough wedges in the back cut ??*

If you have to really lift a tree , you will need a couple few wedges in the back cut ... Don,t just put one in and beat the hell out of it till it breaks ... When your ax starts bouncing back at you , thats as much as you ought to beat that wedge .......
. exactly what kind of ax are you guys using for wedging ??. Get a 5 lb rafting ax from Bailey's or Madsen's or Wood's ect ......


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## Burvol (Jan 29, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> If you have to really lift a tree , you will need a couple few wedges in the back cut ... Don,t just put one in and beat the hell out of it till it breaks ... When your ax starts bouncing back at you , thats as much as you ought to beat that wedge .......
> . exactly what kind of ax are you guys using for wedging ??. Get a 5 lb rafting ax from Bailey's or Madsen's or Wood's ect ......



Spread out the load of the tree with more wedges.... If I know it's gonna be a sucker, I start planning on it right away.


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## Greystoke (Jan 29, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> If you have to really lift a tree , you will need a couple few wedges in the back cut ... Don,t just put one in and beat the hell out of it till it breaks ... When your ax starts bouncing back at you , thats as much as you ought to beat that wedge .......
> . exactly what kind of ax are you guys using for wedging ??. Get a 5 lb rafting ax from Bailey's or Madsen's or Wood's ect ......



A 6 pounder with 36" handle with plenty of wedges in my pouch and in spares in my pack-sack was always the best combination for me if I was in the kind of wood to warrant it, and if it was not, it was time to break out some jacks.


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## Greystoke (Jan 30, 2010)

*My wedge selection*

By the way, I always liked the 10 and 12 inch K & H wedges best, but I would always mix in a dozen 12 inch Madsens wedges in to help stretch the wedge budget, also used a 15 inch banana wedge (mostly for beating lightly, but also in nicer trees to get some extra lift with some other stacked ones).


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## Burvol (Jan 30, 2010)

tarzanstree said:


> By the way, I always liked the 10 and 12 inch K & H wedges best, but I would always mix in a dozen 12 inch Madsens wedges in to help stretch the wedge budget, also used a 15 inch banana wedge (mostly for beating lightly, but also in nicer trees to get some extra lift with some other stacked ones).



Premium. We think alike


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## tramp bushler (Jan 30, 2010)

tarzanstree said:


> By the way, I always liked the 10 and 12 inch K & H wedges best, but I would always mix in a dozen 12 inch Madsens wedges in to help stretch the wedge budget, also used a 15 inch banana wedge (mostly for beating lightly, but also in nicer trees to get some extra lift with some other stacked ones).


.

. I saw that bananna in your wedge pouch ./. My favorite heavy lifting wedge is the 12" Hard Head ..


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## bitzer (Feb 1, 2010)

tramp bushler said:


> If you have to really lift a tree , you will need a couple few wedges in the back cut ... Don,t just put one in and beat the hell out of it till it breaks ... When your ax starts bouncing back at you , thats as much as you ought to beat that wedge .......
> . exactly what kind of ax are you guys using for wedging ??. Get a 5 lb rafting ax from Bailey's or Madsen's or Wood's ect ......



I've got a 3.5 and 5 lber with straight handles. Frozen hardwood can be a b$tch to move and unless you've got the backcut open well enough it is tough to double stack sometimes. The wood has no give at all. I'm not pounding any harder than necessary, but sometimes I've got some pretty ugly stuff to move. I guess I haven't changed from my warmer weather falling tactics until lately. I've been using deeper faces and the 5lber. Seems to be working out a lot easier. Wedges are too damn expensive around here to be killing them all the time! ha. ha.


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