# Problem with dodge tranny



## ozzy42 (Mar 19, 2009)

I have a peculiar ptoblem with a 2000 dodge ram 1500 318wauto tranny.

When truck warms up a bit,it will shift into 2nd or drive while sitting at a light or stop sign. I have to pull it down manualy into 1st gear then after it is going 20mph or so bump it back up to normal drive position and it shifts just fine. It does not do it when the truck is cold,and it does not slip at all even under heavy load.I have never had a tranny do this before.
It has the propper amount of fluid ,and is not burnt .

Any ideas?


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## ShoerFast (Mar 19, 2009)

ozzy42 said:


> I have a peculiar ptoblem with a 2000 dodge ram 1500 318wauto tranny.
> 
> When truck warms up a bit,it will shift into 2nd or drive while sitting at a light or stop sign. I have to pull it down manualy into 1st gear then after it is going 20mph or so bump it back up to normal drive position and it shifts just fine. It does not do it when the truck is cold,and it does not slip at all even under heavy load.I have never had a tranny do this before.
> It has the propper amount of fluid ,and is not burnt .
> ...



From the hip...

Play with the kick down linkage, what could that hurt, but sounds like a deeper problem. 

Sounds like a seal problem. (or a seal/governor problem)

Sort of a trick, but easy after you have tested one. To put a pressure gauge on it and run it thought it's problem. 

Give or take, the governer should have a PSI per MPH , and line pressure should hold constant in every gear. (very slight dips as packs engage) 

Short story long, you might be OH'ing the tranny or at least a seal kit.


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## ozzy42 (Mar 19, 2009)

Thanks Shoerfast,
I know my way around a motor ok,but all I've ever done with trannies is 
r&r. Might have to start looking for a replacement.


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## John D (Mar 19, 2009)

I've built quite a few dodge automatics,mostly behind the cummins. Next time it does it,slip in in N,shut it off,restart it,and see if it shifts normally for a short time. If it does,you more than likely need to replace the governor soleniod and pressure transducer .The truck is going into limp mode,shutting it off resets it until it sense pressures out of range again.This is not a real hard job,and takes about an hour at the most.You will need to pull the pan to do this,so service the trans at the same time,kill 2 birds w one stone.
If after shutdown,it continues to act the same,I suggest you get under the truck,about in the middle of the front driveshaft,look up above the tans pan,you will see the linkage,Spray them down with wd40,and reach up and manually move the small lever on top,that is the kickdown linkage.Trucks in the salt belt get build up there,and they hang up occasionally. 
Im 95% sure its the gov solenoid though.


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## ozzy42 (Mar 20, 2009)

Thanks John,I'll give it a try.


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## John D (Apr 11, 2009)

Any updates on the truck or problem?


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## Dadatwins (Apr 11, 2009)

John D said:


> I've built quite a few dodge automatics,mostly behind the cummins. Next time it does it,slip in in N,shut it off,restart it,and see if it shifts normally for a short time. If it does,you more than likely need to replace the governor soleniod and pressure transducer .The truck is going into limp mode,shutting it off resets it until it sense pressures out of range again.This is not a real hard job,and takes about an hour at the most.You will need to pull the pan to do this,so service the trans at the same time,kill 2 birds w one stone.
> If after shutdown,it continues to act the same,I suggest you get under the truck,about in the middle of the front driveshaft,look up above the tans pan,you will see the linkage,Spray them down with wd40,and reach up and manually move the small lever on top,that is the kickdown linkage.Trucks in the salt belt get build up there,and they hang up occasionally.
> Im 95% sure its the gov solenoid though.



Mine did the same thing and I spent almost $500.00 at the dealer for the solenoids and labor. Was told it was a common problem with that model. As it came out the repair shop, I drove a block away and traded it in for a Chevy.


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## 046 (Apr 11, 2009)

great advice! 

also wouldn't hurt to change out fluids to synthetic, if it's not already done. while the pan is dropped, adjust your clutch bands. 



John D said:


> I've built quite a few dodge automatics,mostly behind the cummins. Next time it does it,slip in in N,shut it off,restart it,and see if it shifts normally for a short time. If it does,you more than likely need to replace the governor soleniod and pressure transducer .The truck is going into limp mode,shutting it off resets it until it sense pressures out of range again.This is not a real hard job,and takes about an hour at the most.You will need to pull the pan to do this,so service the trans at the same time,kill 2 birds w one stone.
> If after shutdown,it continues to act the same,I suggest you get under the truck,about in the middle of the front driveshaft,look up above the tans pan,you will see the linkage,Spray them down with wd40,and reach up and manually move the small lever on top,that is the kickdown linkage.Trucks in the salt belt get build up there,and they hang up occasionally.
> Im 95% sure its the gov solenoid though.


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## John D (Apr 11, 2009)

Dadatwins said:


> Mine did the same thing and I spent almost $500.00 at the dealer for the solenoids and labor. Was told it was a common problem with that model. As it came out the repair shop, I drove a block away and traded it in for a Chevy.



It isnt a big deal,the average guy with basic skills and a toolbox can put them in.They are known,common items.Its too bad they got you for $500.00,the entire job should have been closer to 3-400 with a service,depending on the parts(OEM,or aftermarket).


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## Dadatwins (Apr 11, 2009)

John D said:


> It isnt a big deal,the average guy with basic skills and a toolbox can put them in.They are known,common items.Its too bad they got you for $500.00,the entire job should have been closer to 3-400 with a service,depending on the parts(OEM,or aftermarket).



Mine was just out of warantee, 38k on the clock and the dealer would not even discuss options. Lost a day with the truck, no loaner available just terrible service. I liked the ride and room of the dodge but that experience has turned me off them. Not meaning to bash the product, I know some luv them, just not me and probably because of this.


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## weimedog (Apr 11, 2009)

ozzy42 said:


> I have a peculiar ptoblem with a 2000 dodge ram 1500 318wauto tranny.
> 
> When truck warms up a bit,it will shift into 2nd or drive while sitting at a light or stop sign. I have to pull it down manualy into 1st gear then after it is going 20mph or so bump it back up to normal drive position and it shifts just fine. It does not do it when the truck is cold,and it does not slip at all even under heavy load.I have never had a tranny do this before.
> It has the propper amount of fluid ,and is not burnt .
> ...




Mine started a mechanical nightmare like that back in 2004..and then progressed into a real mess. (I have a 2000 Durango w/ 360)

Those transmissions were notorious for issues. To cut to the quick. Their oil pumps don't have enough oil pressure & capacity to handle all the clutch packs. Especially when in reverse. They typically score bearings a little & then the pressure drops a little each time they get scored more..and they get erratic as the operating pressure is borderline. Works better cold when oil is a little thick as compared to warm. This also thows a shop as when they do pressure checks, usually in the beginning of the "melt down" those checks are done without a fully warmed transmission.

Mine did as yours is right now back in 2004. So my dealer started with the typical stuff they could get to..all the way from the governor soleniod and pressure transducer to a new valve body.....and while they were spending time and money there..it would be better for a week or two..then the engine light would turn on...and then shifting issues would return again a few weeks later. They even replaced the torque converter and that gave me a couple of months! This went on for an entire summer, fall and into the winter.

Finally on a really cold night going to work..it just stuck & litteraly broke the torque converter (the NEW one) I ran it a full throttle to finish the trip to work..and then it had to be towed...and then they tore the entire transmission down and found the problem...scored bearings.

In retrospect..I should have listened to the mechanic in our shop..You can ltterally kill them by going backwards for a period of time..plowing long parking lots on a cold day kills them quick.

When they "stick" and take out the torque converter .. they throw a mechanic off the scent...and the typical tranny shop will replace that and it will work for a bit...then get erratic again....because they didn't get to the "lower" pressure issue from scored bearing at the rear of the transmission.

Where I work I've seem them die in one snow storm. My Durango has lasted since 2004 when it was finally fixed by following what our shop mechanic recommended...

Once you see and understand, you can make them last. (ONCE rebuilt)
1) Stay out of reverse as much as possible..and if you HAVE to be in reverse, do so with as little stress as possible.
2) Keep that tranny out of overdrive on really cold days (Sub 10 degrees)
3) Keep it out of OD when towing or pulling long hills.
4) Synthetics helps but doesn't solve the issue.

Sorry...thats the deal.


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## John D (Apr 11, 2009)

weimedog said:


> Mine started a mechanical nightmare like that back in 2004..and then progressed into a real mess. (I have a 2000 Durango w/ 360)
> 
> Those transmissions were notorious for issues. To cut to the quick. Their oil pumps don't have enough oil pressure & capacity to handle all the clutch packs. Especially when in reverse. They typically score bearings a little & then the pressure drops a little each time they get scored more..and they get erratic as the operating pressure is borderline. Works better cold when oil is a little thick as compared to warm. This also thows a shop as when they do pressure checks, usually in the beginning of the "melt down" those checks are done without a fully warmed transmission.
> 
> ...



I have no idea where you got your info,but I certainly do not agree with it. As for the bearing in the rear of the trans,the only bearings are in the OD unit,and they are torrington,and rarely fail at all.
If your statements were correct,it would be impossible for my cummins trans to last 6 yrs plowing without a single issue,I have mine modded,but nothing to the rear of the trans. 
As for you saying there isnt enough oil pump to handle all the clutch packs,thats BS.These trannys are simple,in reverse the only things applied are the 3rd gear clutch(front clutch),and the reverse band.Thats it!If the trans is worn out,then by all means it will leak the pressure off and fail.
The oiling works like this in these transmissions:
1st gear is just the rear clutch,nothing else.2nd just applies the front band,while leaving the rear clutch on,3rd applys the front clutch,while overpowering the 2nd band forcing it to release.OD does everything in 3rd,then applies the 4th gear piston,which has to overcome 3rd gear spring pressure,and apply the 4th clutches.So if any gear failed,or excess clutches caused failure it would likely be in OD.This is why the modded diesels slip the transmissions,they have everything applied+lockup,with stock pressures,and a modded cummins will put out 8-900+ft lbs easily at 1700rpm.
The issue with lubrication is well known for years dating back to the original 3 speed torqueflight design,due to lack of oiling in park,there are 2 ways to fix this,either use the parking brake,and N like you would with a manual trans,or install a trans go shift kit,which corrects this by drilling passages to allow some oiling in park.If you put it in N upon the first start every day for 20 seconds,then back out,it will be fine.In order to cool a hot trans after towing,plowing or launchign a boat,just let it idle in N,and it will cool right off,people throw it in park,and stop oiling,and seal off the coolers,then wonder why they die.I'm pretty sure this info is in the owners manual of the trucks,not that anyone reads them.
Reverse is pretty strong in those transmissions,esp the later versions(after 95 or so) with the 3 ring reverse band.


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## weimedog (Apr 11, 2009)

"Star Center" is the source of information.

I might be slightly off of parts and termanology as its been 4-5 years....so I just got my work orders out to look again:

PN for the Shaft that had its bearing surface scored on mine (and three others at work):

From the work order:

"Removed transmission per Star Center and replace Converter, Pump, Input Shaft and Seals. Road Test- Shifts good now, No Codes Stored"

Some of the more expensive parts:

4617396 :SHAFT: TRANSMISSION
4617418AC: RING: INPUT SHAFT
Other parts replaced during that deal:

52118500AB: SOLENOID: TRANSMISSION OVERD
52118789: FILTER: VALVE BODY
2124872: RING: NONE
4617161 :WASHER: FRONT CLUTCH
4796467AD : PUMP PKG: TRANSMISSION
R4736591AC (FP) : CONVERTER: TORQUE

Bunch of other related stuff that I don't have time to copy here.

This was the last of four separate "rebuilds" & "repairs" done by the local dealer on MY Durango, all starting with pretty much the same explanation and conclusion you have started with....along with explatives of how many transmission the first of three tranny guys had done..they were the dealer! And it was finally the "Star Center" that directed the last guy to the issues along with the explaination relative to decreasing transmission pressure due to a progressive scoring on the bearing surface of that particular shaft...

Then I started complaining to our shop mechanic...the place where I work deals with more snow than you can imagin. Trust me on that..they had bought some Dodges with the same transmission 360 motor setups in RAM 3500's w/ much lower axle (numerically higher) ratio's and started having them die while doing large parking area's. Our shop mechanic figured out the deal faster than the local transmission shop who had relied on the local dealer..who just kept burning wareentee money until mine..and then the "Star Center" got involved. (What ever they were) And they came to the same conclusion our shop mechanic did...


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## yodayoda (Apr 11, 2009)

weimedog said:


> "Star Center" is the source of information.
> 
> I might be slightly off of parts and termanology as its been 4-5 years....so I just got my work orders out to look again:
> 
> ...



I've been a mechanic at a dodge dealer for 18 years and have overhauled hundreds of dodge trannys. Johns posts are right on the money.

The 46RE trans behind the V8 Had all kinds of torque converter problems starting around 2000 till 2002. Star center had all kinds of theories, one of their favorites was blaming the "micro finish" on the input shaft causing the Teflon seal rings to not seal properly, thereby allowing fluid to leak by and partially engage the torque converter clutch, burning the clutch out.

In the end, it was a bunch of bad torque converters produced by eliminating a manufacturing step, trying to save cost, I always suspected this and finally got someone at star to admit it. Half the time Star is trying to cover their or someone Else's ass.

It was very frustrating as a tech and really made you doubt yourself when you put in a new part and the new part was no better than the part you took out. There was a bunch of trucks bought back because of it.

Ozzy, replace the governor sensor and solonoid as John said, will probably take care of your particular concern, if you haven't already had torque converter problems you probably got a good one.

Couple of minor corrections

1)Throttle pressure or "kickdown linkage" sticking will cause late/harsh upshifts, early downshifts,
2)only the diesel and v10 got the double wrap reverse band

John, do you work as a tech?


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## John D (Apr 12, 2009)

John said:


> Not anymore,I was a chrysler tech for a few yrs.I was building performance dodge transmissions for a little while.I actually got into the 46/47/48RE's after having zero luck locally,it seems the local trans shops couldnt keep them together very long.I am pretty particular about setting them up,and use good parts,mostly from http://www.dieseltrans.com/. My personal truck has all DTT stuff,all 3 shafts,and has been making in excess of 600rwhp for 5 yrs+,and I havent had any issues yet,other than a bad governor solenoid.


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## yodayoda (Apr 12, 2009)

John D said:


> Not anymore,I was a chrysler tech for a few yrs.I was building performance dodge transmissions for a little while.I actually got into the 46/47/48RE's after having zero luck locally,it seems the local trans shops couldnt keep them together very long.I am pretty particular about setting them up,and use good parts,mostly from http://www.dieseltrans.com/. My personal truck has all DTT stuff,all 3 shafts,and has been making in excess of 600rwhp for 5 yrs+,and I havent had any issues yet,other than a bad governor solenoid.



If you ever want to move to northern Minnesota, we could use a good chrysler transmission tech.

I actually enjoy doing trans. work. There's not many people who actually understand how they work, the warranty flat-rate system pretty much sucks any enjoyment from my job anymore, also driving talented people out of the field. I've got tendinitis in my wrists and shoulders pretty bad so It's hard for me to do heavyline powertrain work all the time, works out however as I still like working on all aspects of cars, bumper to bumper.


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## John D (Apr 12, 2009)

yodayoda said:


> If you ever want to move to northern Minnesota, we could use a good chrysler transmission tech.
> 
> I actually enjoy doing trans. work. There's not many people who actually understand how they work, the warranty flat-rate system pretty much sucks any enjoyment from my job anymore, also driving talented people out of the field. I've got tendinitis in my wrists and shoulders pretty bad so It's hard for me to do heavyline powertrain work all the time, works out however as I still like working on all aspects of cars, bumper to bumper.



Thank you for the offer! I forgot to mention,Ive been wrenching since 11 yrs old,my father owned an auto repair shop.I built my first small bock Chevy at 16 for my Fj40 cruier. I went to SUNY Morrisville,with auto tech major,and went onto first GM,then as Chrysler tech.I too love trans work,not many do them well,kind of why I like it I guess.


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## Brian VT (Apr 18, 2010)

*Thanks*

I should have come to AS first. So much good REAL info here.
I am buying an '01 2500 with 360 gas. So many of the car review sites have me scared about these trannys that I am already getting buyer's remorse. 
I have a friend that had an '01 1500 360 with no issues. My neighbor has an '03 2500 Cummins that he plows/sands hard. No issues. 
I talked to a stanger at a gas station with '01 1500 360 that's on it's 3rd tranny in under 100K mi. 
I don't know what to think, but I feel better knowing I might could get solid help here if/when needed. 
Any further advice on this truck/tranny would be appreciated. I read something about adding a Sea Foam tranny product to keep a valve from sticking ?


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## Dadatwins (Apr 19, 2010)

Thanks for bringing this thread back up, makes me sad to remember the problems that truck gave me back then, and is probably giving problems to someone else today. Good luck with yours.


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