# Planning on replacing engine on log splitter



## Leever2000 (Oct 19, 2017)

I have a 22 Ton Huskee Log splitter with a 6.5 HP B&S engine that seized this past year. Looking to replace engine and have a 5.5 HP B&S from a power washer. Can I use that engine and is there anything I would need to modify on the 5.5 HP B&S? Both are vertical shaft the only differences are the HP and the fact that the donor is from a pressure washer.


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## saxman (Oct 19, 2017)

I have a 26 ton Brave splitter with a 8 HP Briggs Intek It is 11 years old and blowing blue smoke at times. 
I'm going to repower with a Honda. Since you already have an engine that's the way to go for sure. I think it will be fine as long as it turns the same RPM. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sawyer Rob (Oct 19, 2017)

Isn't there ANOTHER difference?

Doesn't you pressure waster motor have a tapered shaft?? If so, you will have to deal with that too.

SR


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## muddstopper (Oct 19, 2017)

Most pressure washer engines I have seen do have a tapered shaft. There was a guy and ebay selling a taper adapter for around $10,, just have to search to see if they are still available.


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## Dieseldash (Oct 19, 2017)

I'd throw a new Harbor Freight 6.5hp Predator on there I've had really good luck with them. Can't go wrong for $99. They run way better than the flat head brigs


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## crowbuster (Oct 19, 2017)

Put a 6.5 hp Honda on my splitter 5-6 yr ago, it was from a pressure washer. Straight shaft, just had to cut an inch off of it.


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## rarefish383 (Oct 20, 2017)

Check the shafts and if they are the same, go with the one you have. If you want to spend the 99 dollars, go with the Predator. I had one on an old splitter. When I bought my new splitter, I left the old one down in the woods for a year and a half, before I decided to sell it. With old gas and all, I choked it, pulled 3-4 times and it fired right up. Always started no matter how cold. If the B&S on my Huskee ever goes, I'm putting a Predator on it, Joe.


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## sb47 (Oct 21, 2017)

Leever2000 said:


> I have a 22 Ton Huskee Log splitter with a 6.5 HP B&S engine that seized this past year. Looking to replace engine and have a 5.5 HP B&S from a power washer. Can I use that engine and is there anything I would need to modify on the 5.5 HP B&S? Both are vertical shaft the only differences are the HP and the fact that the donor is from a pressure washer.



I have the same splitter. The pull rope recoil rusted out and I had a motor that came off a power washer that looked like it would fit.
After mounting it I found the shaft was 1'' to short. So I robbed the pull starter off the washer motor and fixed the spliter motor.
As long as it bolts up and the shaft is the same it should work without any mods.
I could have cut the mounting bracket and re welded it to fit the new motor but I decided not to do that. 
Harbor fright has a motor that will fit for $189.00. I will have to replace it at some point because the one thats on it is on it's last leg. It smokes and burns a lot of oil but it still works.
Check HF if your motor wont fit.


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## Mntn Man (Oct 21, 2017)

sb47 said:


> I have the same splitter. The pull rope recoil rusted out and I had a motor that came off a power washer that looked like it would fit.
> After mounting it I found the shaft was 1'' to short. So I robbed the pull starter off the washer motor and fixed the spliter motor.
> As long as it bolts up and the shaft is the same it should work without any mods.
> I could have cut the mounting bracket and re welded it to fit the new motor but I decided not to do that.



I have a power washer motor as well. I went to use my splitter last weekend and the gas tank had split so I robbed it off of the washer motor. I also noticed that the motor had a choke instead of a primer bulb so I am going to swap carbs as well. The bulb is getting bad and it is really cold blooded.

After I got it going, it was not working splitting the rounds. I could tell it had low pressure but high seemed to not be there. I thought it was the valve had gone bad but after replacing it, it was doing the same thing. I bought a gauge and capped the line. I do have plenty of pressure. I am pretty sure the cylinder has gone bad because I only get 500 lbs of pressure trying to split but if I hold the lever against the detent return I can get 1700 lbs. Has anyone tried to rebuild a cylinder? I haven't found the right kit but it has to be out there. I will ask the hydraulic shop for an estimate on Monday. New cylinders are about $200.


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## sb47 (Oct 21, 2017)

Mntn Man said:


> I have a power washer motor as well. I went to use my splitter last weekend and the gas tank had split so I robbed it off of the washer motor. I also noticed that the motor had a choke instead of a primer bulb so I am going to swap carbs as well. The bulb is getting bad and it is really cold blooded.
> 
> After I got it going, it was not working splitting the rounds. I could tell it had low pressure but high seemed to not be there. I thought it was the valve had gone bad but after replacing it, it was doing the same thing. I bought a gauge and capped the line. I do have plenty of pressure. I am pretty sure the cylinder has gone bad because I only get 500 lbs of pressure trying to split but if I hold the lever against the detent return I can get 1700 lbs. Has anyone tried to rebuild a cylinder? I haven't found the right kit but it has to be out there. I will ask the hydraulic shop for an estimate on Monday. New cylinders are about $200.




lol I robbed my pressure washer motor for several things to make the original splitter motor to keep it going.
Have you changed the hydrolic the filter lately?
What condition is the oil in?
Yes the internal seals can go out and cause it to lose pressure.
Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral.
If the seals are good the ram should not move. If it does the seals could be bad.
Most of the equipment I'm used to were where gravity will let you know if one is bleeding down. If it a small leak it may move very slowly and you have to force it to move. It's not going to move without some weight on it. Gravity is not going to work on a spliter like it does on heavy equipment.
The hydrolic pump may bed bad and not the ram.
I have not personally pulled a cylinder apart and tried to fix it. I always took them to a shop. I've seen them do it several times.
They do use specialize tools and machines though. Of course they also fix cylinders that blow the ends right off and re weld them and return the tubs and ram stems. I don't know how easy it is to just change seals. 
Start with the simple cheap things first, then work your way through it. 
Hope you getter goin again.


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## Mntn Man (Oct 21, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Have you changed the hydrolic the filter lately?
> What condition is the oil in?



New filter and the oil is synthetic 32 in great shape. Thanks for the suggestion about using a jack, I will try that tomorrow. It just irks me because I have just a little bit of wood ready to go and a cord and a half of ash to split. The last time I used it I didn't have any problems nor have I in the 10 years of service it's given me other that I sanded it down and repainted and new wheel bearings.


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## aokpops (Oct 22, 2017)

While your at it . Hop this thing up get a bigger pump . I heard of people running a 16 gallon pump on a harbor freight 6 horse .


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## Mntn Man (Oct 22, 2017)

That was the plan if the pump was shot but I am sure that isn't the problem. It has to be the ram unless the new valve has the same problem as the old one. I will turn up the low side to the max the motor will handle once I get it going. I played with it a little and I know that it can handle more than the factory default. I hope that will shorten the cycle some. I go about the speed of the splitter anyway, lol. Bad timing for me for the cost of a breakdown. I was looking forward to the low energy bills of winter to help catch up.


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## Gugi47 (Oct 22, 2017)

I have the exact splitter for years, never have any problem.
But I use only Mobil 1 10/20 synthetic oil from new.


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## al-k (Oct 23, 2017)

DuroMax 7 HP Go Kart Log Splitter Gas Power Engine Motor - XP7HPE Electric Start on ebay for 180. I have a duromax 10k generator that works good. have about 200 hours on it.


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## Mntn Man (Oct 25, 2017)

Put a new cylinder on it this evening and it lives! Thought I would split until I ran out of gas and I did, before it did, lol. No, it got dark on me, that's it. Now I need more hydraulic oil. I can see that it just has enough to fully extend the ram. It has 32 synthetic in it but I don't think I can get more of it for free. I will price the various options at work tomorrow.


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## reddogrunner (Oct 26, 2017)

Harbor Freight motors are hard to beat too, although that sees a little late for this post. I put one on mine and its been working great for about a year with first pull starting each time. I also upgraded the pump from 11gpm to a 13gpm and can notice the difference in cycle time.


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## muddstopper (Oct 26, 2017)

sb47 said:


> lol I robbed my pressure washer motor for several things to make the original splitter motor to keep it going.
> Have you changed the hydrolic the filter lately?
> What condition is the oil in?
> Yes the internal seals can go out and cause it to lose pressure.
> ...



Since the Op has solved his problems, I want to comment on a few things you said.

*"Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral."*

Not going to work as a test. If your valve is 100% sealed, you wont be able to jack the cyl in, even if you removed the shaft seals completely. In order for the shaft to be forced into the cyl, there has to be someway for the oil volume that is equal to the shaft volume to be expelled from the cyl. If oil cant leave the cyl then the cyl cant be retracted, with a jack or other wise. If the cyl does manage to retract using the jack method, the problem is with the control valve and not with the cyl.

*"Most of the equipment I'm used to were where gravity will let you know if one is bleeding down. If it a small leak it may move very slowly and you have to force it to move. It's not going to move without some weight on it." *

See above reply, the same conditions apply as using a jack to force the cyl in. Again, problem is most likely a valve problem and not a cyl problem. It could also be a leaking fitting, pin hole in hose, not properly seating relief valve, etc. Point is, the cyl cannot retract unless there is a path for the oil that is being displaced by the rod, to escape. This would apply even if you remove the shaft seals completely.


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## sb47 (Oct 26, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> Since the Op has solved his problems, I want to comment on a few things you said.
> 
> *"Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral."*
> 
> ...




Sorry to disagree but I ran a Big John tree spade for 30+ years. I know for a fact that when the internal seals in the cylinder go bad, it can and will bleed down because of weight and gravity. It's not bleeding through the valve because replacing the cylinder or fixing the existing cylinder will fix the problem.
Been there done that many times. I personalty removed and or replaced many cylinders on many tree spades, back ho's, loaders, dump trucks, and I have seen many cylinders internal seals go bad.
Take the main lift cylinder from a tree spade for example. It's a push pull set up, meaning it has power in both directions (up or down)
If I lift a load and stop and put the valve in neutral. It should stay in that spot till I move it. If the seals start going bad it will bleed down instead of staying put. It bleeds down because there is a lot of weight pushing on it, causing the fluid to bleed past the internal seals. Replacing the lift cylinder fixes the problem. That tells me the leak was in the cylinder, not the hand valve.
Same goes with all of them. from the outrigger cylinders to the blade cylinders, gate cylinders, pad cylinders, tilt cylinders. They all work the same way.
Some cylinders like some on a fork lift are push only, meaning it only has power in one direction. Witch would push up only, gravity is used to pull the forks back down. Many tractors lift's are push only, meaning they only push up with no downward pushing power. 

Wood splitters are push pull types but because there is no down force or weight to to force it in one direction or the other, you can't use gravity to let you know if one is bleeding through the internal seals.
So using a jack will help determine if the cylinder has internal leaks. It could very well be the hand valve, but 99% of the time it's in the cylinder.


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## sb47 (Oct 26, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> Since the Op has solved his problems, I want to comment on a few things you said.
> 
> *"Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral."*
> 
> ...




It also doesn't mean there is some other issue causing the problem. Low hydrolic pressure is a symptom of several possibility's.
I'm assuming he has checked for leaking hoses, fittings or any signs of oil leaking externally. Those are very obvious and easy to spot.
The only things left are the hand valve, witch can go bad but it doesn't usually lead to low hydrolic pressure.
That leaves the pump or the cylinder as the culprit.
Pumps do go bad and do cause low pressure, resulting in low power.
But water contaminated oil can do that as well. Same with foamy oil or oil filter getting stopped up.
He needs to check all of the above before replacing anything.
Both pump and cylinder leaks can come on slowly getting weaker or letting oil bypass seals until it becomes noticeable. Sometimes they can happen suddenly. 

If it were me, I would test the cylinder first because I have a way to do that. (i.e. the jack method or gravity) If I still was not sure I would have the cylinder tested. If that's ok, then it almost surly is a pump or oil issue.


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## sb47 (Oct 26, 2017)

Mntn Man said:


> Put a new cylinder on it this evening and it lives! Thought I would split until I ran out of gas and I did, before it did, lol. No, it got dark on me, that's it. Now I need more hydraulic oil. I can see that it just has enough to fully extend the ram. It has 32 synthetic in it but I don't think I can get more of it for free. I will price the various options at work tomorrow.



Good to hear you gott'er fixed. I had a feeling it was cylinder related.


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## muddstopper (Oct 26, 2017)

sb47 said:


> It also doesn't mean there is some other issue causing the problem. Low hydrolic pressure is a symptom of several possibility's.
> I'm assuming he has checked for leaking hoses, fittings or any signs of oil leaking externally. Those are very obvious and easy to spot.
> The only things left are the hand valve, witch can go bad but it doesn't usually lead to low hydrolic pressure.
> That leaves the pump or the cylinder as the culprit.
> ...



I never addressed the problems the OP was having. I will agree that bad cyl seals can reduce force. If the oil is bypassing the cyl seals, it has a open path to tank and therefore a pressure drop and loss of force. A new cyl fixed his problem so bad cyl seals where the likely problem. You can check for bad cyl seals by simply running the cyl all the way out or in, one way or the other, but not both at the same time, and unhooking a hose. Then try going past full out or extend and see if oil squirts out of the open port., If it does, the seals are bad or cyl is scored. Dont need a jack.

As for the cyl being able to be jacked to retract, Until you can explain how the cyl can hold more volume as the cyl rod is forced inside the bore, I will stand by my statements. The cyl bore will only hold a certain amount of volume, the oil as, well as the piston and the rod, takes up the entire volume of the cyl bore. Retracting the cyl, without a path for oil to leave the bore is trying to put more volume ( the actual rod),in a bore where there isnt anymore room. Take your spade cyl off and remove the piston seals, reassemble with the rod extended, fill competely with oil and cap both ends of the cyl ports. Dollar to a donut, you cant jack the cyl rod to a full retract position. If the rod can be retracted even a little bit, it will be because you didnt get all the air out of the cyl. Air will compress, oil wont. If both cyl ports are connected to a control valve and you can force the cyl closed, and there are no other leaks, the oil volume, (volume equal to rod volume), has to be returning to tank thru the control valve and 99% of the time, the CV is what is bad. 

As for a cyl extending, I will agree you can force the cyl to extend by applying weights or with a jack. Oil is considered a non compressible fluid, but it will readily expand. Forcing a closed cyl to open will create a vacuum and actually shear the oil causeing the molecules to separate. This will cause foaming in the oil.


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## muddstopper (Oct 26, 2017)

I tried to link a site to fully explain what I am trying to explain, but forum software wouldnt let me. If you have doubts, do a little research about cyl drift


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## Mntn Man (Oct 26, 2017)

I will say that I used a hand screw jack with nearly no effort to move the cylinder towards retracted position and I could hear a sucking sound as I did. Cylinder did not leak oil. Hoses and oil all were in good shape and valve was already replaced with no change in symptoms. I had checked pump by capping out line and pulling engine.


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## sb47 (Oct 26, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> I never addressed the problems the OP was having. I will agree that bad cyl seals can reduce force. If the oil is bypassing the cyl seals, it has a open path to tank and therefore a pressure drop and loss of force.




You answered your own question. If the seals are bad the oil can bleed in ether direction. The jack is just replacing gravity or the weight that may hang from it.
On a splitter, because of its design, it would simply be easier to push it in then push it out.


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## JeffHK454 (Oct 26, 2017)

sb47 said:


> You answered your own question. If the seals are bad the oil can bleed in ether direction. The jack is just replacing gravity or the weight that may hang from it.
> On a splitter, because of its design, it would simply be easier to push it in then push it out.


You're struggling with how displaced volume works in relation to drift caused by gravity ... drift happens because holding valves , check valves or directional control valves are bypassing.


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## sb47 (Oct 26, 2017)

JeffHK454 said:


> You're struggling with how displaced volume works in relation to drift caused by gravity ... drift happens because holding valves , check valves or directional control valves are bypassing.



I'm simply going by personal experience. I have seen it happen. Not once but many times.
The volume of oil doesn't change, it simply blows by a leaking seal from one chamber to another.


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## muddstopper (Oct 26, 2017)

If the valve is in center position and is not bypassing oil internally, you will never jack a cyl into the retract position. I dont care if you take the piston off the rod and throw it in the trash can. The simple act of the rod going into the barrel of the cyl is displacing volume and that volume has to go some where other than stay in the cyl. You are giving bad information, Period. This is not related to the problem the OP was experiencing and my post had nothing to to do with diagnosing his problems. My post was in reply to you posting wrong information. In the morning, fill your coffee cup to the point of over flowing and then stick your finger in the cup and see if it overflows. This is what is happening when trying to force a ram into a closed cylinder. The fluid has to be displaced to make room for the rod to enter the cyl. If the oil cant be displaced, then the rod cant enter the cyl. If the hoses are connected to the cyl from the control valve and you can force the cyl into retract position, the oil is flowing back to tank thru the valve and has nothing to do with the conditions of the cyl seals. You are 100% correct, the volume of the oil doesnt change, but the volume of the rod does as it enters the cyl. Rod volume has to displace fluid volume in order to retract into the cyl. if the oil doesnt leave the cyl then the rod cant retract. The oil cant simply blow by the leaking seal from one chamber to the other because the rod is taking of the volume of the opposite chamber and the more rod that enters that chamber, the less room you have for oil. It wont matter if you have bad seals, no seals, or remove the piston entirely, if oil cant leave the cyl, you cant force the rod back inside the cyl. If you can you better be looking around because you have oil leaking somewhere.

On the other hand, if you are using the valve to activate the cyl, then you are providing a open path to tank for the oil to flow. If the valve is worn and bypassing internally, you have a path for oil to return to tank and at that point, you would be able to jack or force the cyl closed.


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## muddstopper (Oct 26, 2017)

http://www.hydraulicspneumatics.com/blog/how-troubleshoot-hydraulic-cylinder-drift


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## sb47 (Oct 26, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> If the valve is in center position and is not bypassing oil internally, you will never jack a cyl into the retract position. I dont care if you take the piston off the rod and throw it in the trash can. The simple act of the rod going into the barrel of the cyl is displacing volume and that volume has to go some where other than stay in the cyl. You are giving bad information, Period. This is not related to the problem the OP was experiencing and my post had nothing to to do with diagnosing his problems. My post was in reply to you posting wrong information. In the morning, fill your coffee cup to the point of over flowing and then stick your finger in the cup and see if it overflows. This is what is happening when trying to force a ram into a closed cylinder. The fluid has to be displaced to make room for the rod to enter the cyl. If the oil cant be displaced, then the rod cant enter the cyl. If the hoses are connected to the cyl from the control valve and you can force the cyl into retract position, the oil is flowing back to tank thru the valve and has nothing to do with the conditions of the cyl seals. You are 100% correct, the volume of the oil doesnt change, but the volume of the rod does as it enters the cyl. Rod volume has to displace fluid volume in order to retract into the cyl. if the oil doesnt leave the cyl then the rod cant retract. The oil cant simply blow by the leaking seal from one chamber to the other because the rod is taking of the volume of the opposite chamber and the more rod that enters that chamber, the less room you have for oil. It wont matter if you have bad seals, no seals, or remove the piston entirely, if oil cant leave the cyl, you cant force the rod back inside the cyl. If you can you better be looking around because you have oil leaking somewhere.
> 
> On the other hand, if you are using the valve to activate the cyl, then you are providing a open path to tank for the oil to flow. If the valve is worn and bypassing internally, you have a path for oil to return to tank and at that point, you would be able to jack or force the cyl closed.






I think your the one that is not understanding what I'm saying.
Take a cylinder full of fluid and cap off both the input and output sides so no oil can go into or out of the cylinder.
Now try and move the rod in or out. If the seals are bad the ram will move because the oil in one side of the cylinder can blow by the seals and transfer to the other side. The ram can move without changing the volume of the oil in the cylinder. It's not bad advice, your just not following along.


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## muddstopper (Oct 27, 2017)

I understand fully. If you cap both ends of the cyl and it is full of oil with no air, you will be able to apply enough force to extend the cyl. You will never push the rod into the cyl unless you blow out the gland seals or split the side of the cyl. The oil can not move from one side of the seals to the other simply because the other side is already full of oil andyou are trying to overfill that side by adding more rod to the inside of the cyl. It cant get any more plain than that and it is you who doesnt understand. I know you didnt read the link I provided so I will just paste what it says here.

"A popular misconception about hydraulic cylinders is that if the piston seal is leaking, the cylinder will drift down. Fact is, if the piston seal is completely removed from a double-acting hydraulic cylinder, the cylinder is completely filled with oil and its ports are plugged, the cylinder will hold its load indefinitely - unless the rod-seal leaks."


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## sb47 (Oct 27, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> I understand fully. If you cap both ends of the cyl and it is full of oil with no air, you will be able to apply enough force to extend the cyl. You will never push the rod into the cyl unless you blow out the gland seals or split the side of the cyl. The oil can not move from one side of the seals to the other simply because the other side is already full of oil andyou are trying to overfill that side by adding more rod to the inside of the cyl. It cant get any more plain than that and it is you who doesnt understand. I know you didnt read the link I provided so I will just paste what it says here.
> 
> "A popular misconception about hydraulic cylinders is that if the piston seal is leaking, the cylinder will drift down. Fact is, if the piston seal is completely removed from a double-acting hydraulic cylinder, the cylinder is completely filled with oil and its ports are plugged, the cylinder will hold its load indefinitely - unless the rod-seal leaks."




Sorry partner, When the internal seals go bad, I have seen cylinders bleed in both directions. Your telling me something is impossible when I have seen it for myself.
I have seen them bleed down in both directions. Explain that!


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## NSMaple1 (Oct 27, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Sorry partner, When the internal seals go bad, I have seen cylinders bleed in both directions. Your telling me something is impossible when I have seen it for myself.
> I have seen them bleed down in both directions. Explain that!



You're not grasping the situation.

Forget about the internal seals. And the piston.

With the cylinder fully extended, all that rod is outside in the air and outside the cylinder. That rod has volume. If you try to push the rod back in the cylinder that is full of oil and capped, that rod volume that is coming back into the cylinder will have to displace oil volume that is already in the cylinder before it can enter the cylinder. Pistons & their seals have nothing to do with that. The only way that rod will push back into the cylinder, is if oil leaks out the cap seal around the rod, or if it leaks out through one of the two oil ports which would mean it is also going past or through a valve somewhere. Or out a simple leak somewhere else. It has nothing to do with the internal piston & seals.

You are imagining the rod being inside the cylinder all the time, for its full length - and that the end of the rod moving in and out is only moving the piston back & forth on the rod. Which is obviously not the case.


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## muddstopper (Oct 27, 2017)

sb47 said:


> Sorry partner, When the internal seals go bad, I have seen cylinders bleed in both directions. Your telling me something is impossible when I have seen it for myself.
> I have seen them bleed down in both directions. Explain that!


 Its simple, oil is either leaking back thru the control valve, or thru a relief or other componet, or you have a leaking hose or fitting or shaft seal.In other words, the oil has to be going somewhere, you just have'nt found the where yet. 
There is also the possibility that the cyl was forced outward under load, which would shear the oil and cause foaming. The vacuum created by forceing the cyl to extend by external means, (your jack), has sheared the air molecules out of the oil. You cyl now can recompress that air as it ties to retract under load and this would allow the cyl to "drift", how much would depend on how much shear was created. At no point would the cyl retract any more than the point that the shear was created, and it would be very difficult to even reach that point. 

I did not read what Problem the Op had. When the thread was started it was about swapping current engine to a pressure washer engine. He wasnt having a hyd problem. When I checked back in, he had already fixed his problems so I had no reason to comment. I did feel it necessary to respond to one of your comments, which I knew to be wrong. I think if you will consider what I, and NSMaple, have said, read the link I provided, and if not convinced, then do a little more research, you will realize what we are saying is true.


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## sb47 (Oct 27, 2017)

muddstopper said:


> Its simple, oil is either leaking back thru the control valve, or thru a relief or other componet, or you have a leaking hose or fitting or shaft seal.In other words, the oil has to be going somewhere, you just have'nt found the where yet.
> There is also the possibility that the cyl was forced outward under load, which would shear the oil and cause foaming. The vacuum created by forceing the cyl to extend by external means, (your jack), has sheared the air molecules out of the oil. You cyl now can recompress that air as it ties to retract under load and this would allow the cyl to "drift", how much would depend on how much shear was created. At no point would the cyl retract any more than the point that the shear was created, and it would be very difficult to even reach that point.
> 
> I did not read what Problem the Op had. When the thread was started it was about swapping current engine to a pressure washer engine. He wasnt having a hyd problem. When I checked back in, he had already fixed his problems so I had no reason to comment. I did feel it necessary to respond to one of your comments, which I knew to be wrong. I think if you will consider what I, and NSMaple, have said, read the link I provided, and if not convinced, then do a little more research, you will realize what we are saying is true.




Not worth arguing or disagreeing over something that doesn't help the thread. The thread is dead, he fixed his problem witch was the cylinder. Case closed.


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## muddstopper (Oct 27, 2017)

Your choice to believe or not to believe.


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