# Dump Trailer Floor Replacement



## Chris(Glen) (Jul 2, 2014)

Just wondering what everyone would do if they had to replace their trailer floor.

Either Steel if so which gauge or wooden plank? I am using the trailer for basically only split wood deliveries being loaded by a conveyor.


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## sam-tip (Jul 2, 2014)

10 guage steel is my 2 cents for dump. I tend to go extreme for sturdy.


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## Sagetown (Jul 2, 2014)

sam-tip said:


> 10 guage steel is my 2 cents for dump. I tend to go extreme for sturdy.


Yup; Sometimes things dropped on thin steel beds can penetrate right through.


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## dave_dj1 (Jul 2, 2014)

I'm with them, at least 11 gauge but probably 10.


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## GeeVee (Jul 2, 2014)

I used 11g. But, then again, I trashed out the bed frame too. I cut the old bed sides about three inches off, including salvaging the bottom hinge of the door. Set it aside. Cut the bed frame off the chassis, built new frame, and installed on cross memeber/cylinder bracing (twin rams) laid flor and tacked, then set bed on OVER the frame (made it a quarter inch narrower) welded it to new frame (2x3 box tube) then raised bed and welded floor overhead. In hindsight I would have welded floor to frame (down) then rotated and installed.


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## muddstopper (Jul 2, 2014)

I'm with the 10 or 11 guage crowd. Sometimes i just cut out the bad spots and stitch in new. Also been know to just drop in a piece of plywood for temporary fixes, Plywood will last a pretty long time, but when the plywood wears out, you can bet the metal bottom is a lot worse than it was before you started covering the holes.


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## DanTheCanadian (Jul 3, 2014)

10 gauge or better, don't waste your time with wood its too heavy and doesn't last. I've seen floors done with 3/16 but now your getting heavy.


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## gulity1 (Jul 3, 2014)

Our scrap guy at work tunred me on to this, use 10ga on the floor and cover with 10ga stainless if you can find it or afford it. nothing sticks to the floor nothing we have used that trailer for hauling wet dirt and it didn't stick to the floor it did the sides but once we the angle up tall enough it comes out.


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## Mike Van (Jul 3, 2014)

I'd use 1" locust boards, I can cut my own, so they're basically free. Split firewood will bounce off it like it was steel plate, and given the way they salt the roads, it will outlast the trailer. Only drawback I see is unless you tounge & groove it, you won't have a 'dirt tight' trailer. If you only haul wood, it's not a problem.


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## jackjcc (Jul 3, 2014)

I went cheap and put 3/4 tongue and groove into mine. It was wood before and it lasted 20+ years. I didn't even consider steel, no idea what the price difference is. I do know that the elements will be what causes it to fail, not 10 pound chunks of oak falling 10 feet.


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## Dave630 (Jul 3, 2014)

Steel with cheap plywood bolted on. Throw away/burn the wood when it gets too beat up.

Dad had a scrap metal hauling business and used this technique to extend trailer life. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## WoodTick007 (Jul 3, 2014)

Go with steel and a liner


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## CRThomas (Jul 30, 2014)

jackjcc said:


> I went cheap and put 3/4 tongue and groove into mine. It was wood before and it lasted 20+ years. I didn't even consider steel, no idea what the price difference is. I do know that the elements will be what causes it to fail, not 10 pound chunks of oak falling 10 feet.


 I have a steel for dump trailer and a dump floor 450 truck with steel floor my othr trailer and one ton dump have wood floors. For new floor wood I measure and call Sikeston Mo they have the new floor ready for pick up the next day and cheaper than the saw mill and theres is treated. I bought some wood at the lumber yard put it on bolted the ends down going to finish it the next day couple days nbefor I got to it the boards were so far a part you could throw a cat thru the cracks. Later


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