# Stihl Aftermarket Parts Review



## surfincr (Sep 10, 2014)

Since there seems to be a lot of threads that pop up from time to time asking about aftermarket parts i figured i'd start one for Stihls to make one thread to collect the data in one spot. Plus there are a few parts that i have been debating on getting and am on the fence about going aftermarket.

So far i have used the following:

Ms260 carbs from china (ebay) - so far used 3 all have worked perfectly and were actually well made.
Ms260 air filter covers - one did not want to fit nicely and took some finess the others fit but were a little off
Ms036/360 (ebay) - fitment was not that great had a few gaps around the sides and starter rope was not long. but functional

Please feel free to add your experiences to this thread


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## surfincr (Sep 11, 2014)

No one wants to review the aftermarket parts they've used?


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## johnlhatfield1 (Sep 11, 2014)

Good thread: I would like to know about HYWAY cylinders & pistons. I bought a (no name)Piston & cyl from LilRedBarn for my 460 Mag. So far it's doing well. Anybody ??


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## stihl for life (Sep 11, 2014)

i got a few kits from weedeaterman and all the owners of the saws i sold are still running


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## nmurph (Sep 12, 2014)

stihl for life said:


> i got a few kits from weedeaterman and all the owners of the saws i sold are still running



Why are the owners running?


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## Brushwacker (Sep 12, 2014)

I bought 10 fuel lines off 1 of those China suppliers, finally tried 1. Had a heck of a time getting it to fit over the pick up. Saw didn't run very long, like less then a minute. The rubber split apart around the pick up nipple and it detached from the line.
I have a small collection of other China parts I picked up cheap. Expect will be trying some of it in the future. 
Any body used their fuel filters ?


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## Big_Wood (Sep 12, 2014)

if the title had been "aftermarket parts reviews" i would be all over this but since it's stihl only i'll be going now.


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## SawTroll (Sep 12, 2014)

I understand that *in general* AM plastic parts tend to have fitment issues, and the plastic often is inferior quality, and heavier than OEM.

Personally I think it is good advice to stay away from AM parts, unless OEM is NLA - but of course there are a few exceptions, like Meteor pistons.


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## splitpost (Sep 12, 2014)

Meteor pistons in general are probly the best AM piston but it still pays to check them ,ive had the odd one with casting flaws and one with the circlip groove that wasnt machined correctly and would not allow the clip to seat,

clutch covers fit good,
cylinders can be hit and miss for quality,
bearings seam ok ,am running some in a couple 026s ,034,036 no worries yet,running a richer mix probly helps,
China Sparkplugs are junk,
fuel lines and intake boots dont always fit good
cranks seals usually junk
Fuel caps that dont seal ar fit good

Have used some carbs with good results,some needing the needle height corrected,and gaskets replaced but generally good
Clutches and drums seem to work good
Rim sprockets can be poorly made being out of round






Sent from my GT-S7500T using Tapatalk 2


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## pioneerguy600 (Sep 12, 2014)

I keep hearing that the AM parts are being improved upon but I really have not seen much of an improvement yet. The parts for the most part will fit, sometimes with a little tinkering and will work but none come up to OEM standards so far. The P&C sets have improved marginally but still leave a lot to be close to OEM. Therefore its still OEM for most of the stuff I use, one exception is the Hutzl outer plastic covers, they aren`t the best but have fit and do the job, look better than old faded out parts and if they break or fail it won`t damage a running saw.


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## big t double (Sep 12, 2014)

I put a hutzle (sp?) fuel tank on a guys 660...it was ok, didn't leak or nuttin. The master control lever was pretty flimsy as was the air filter cover that came with it. I tried to fit a stock cover on it but there was fitment issues so just stuck with the am supplied cover and it was all good. I'd say Not a bad option if you want to keep repair cost down.


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## surfincr (Sep 12, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> if the title had been "aftermarket parts reviews" i would be all over this but since it's stihl only i'll be going now.


i thought about making it a general one but figured it'd be better to keep it clean to easily search.


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## benmyers (Sep 12, 2014)

I've used a couple air filters. One required some fitting, but both worked. 

P&C kits are hit and miss. Usually bad cast quality. I had one with the plating coming off. I have also had a few that were fine. As far as brands I am not sure. The ones baileys sells I can say have been decent. 

I have used quite a few of the clutch covers and they seem ok.


I have also used clutch drums and sprockets with limited success. I recently had an MS460 am drum that was out of round. Other than that, not bad.


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## Poleman (Sep 12, 2014)

Have had nothing but GOOD from HYWAY kit....get them reom weedeaterman!!!! All still going strong...even the ones I ported!! I personally think there GREAT!!
Have had good luck with aftermarket carbs also.
Fuel tank for 038 was a little off but worked. Things didn't line up the best when assembled in some areas.

Off stihl subject here....
Used an afrermarket case on a 372, and it was very good. Sent from China but made in Italy...still scratching my head on that one. Fit was excellent, very good color match, matched righ up to tank and fit like OEM. Only thing off was I had to grind a little off one of the supports to get oil pump to fit right and lay down. Original case had a chunk broke out of oil tank by dogs. This fixed it, looked good, person was HAPPY, and was fairly cheap in comparison.

My experiance in aftermarked some things are as good or better and others are off, plastics especially.


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## f1100turbo (Sep 12, 2014)

Used a am ms361 case, good.
Used a am ms360 case, good.
Used a am ms361 fuel tank, good.
Used a am ms360 recoil, has issues engaging.
Am handle bars good


TURBS

How can i annoy OC today?


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## SawTroll (Sep 12, 2014)

f1100turbo said:


> Used a am ms361 case, good.
> Used a am ms360 case, good.
> Used a am ms361 fuel tank, good.
> Used a am ms360 recoil, has issues engaging.
> ...



You said "good" - but did you check that the material and the weight is as OEM?

Chances are that it isn't!


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## MustangMike (Sep 12, 2014)

I purchased an AM recoil rope & elastostart handle through one of our sponsors and the handle came off in my hand in less than a month. Was not expensive enough for me to bother following up with it. Put the original (w/o elastostart) back on. I mostly wanted the larger handle.


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## f1100turbo (Sep 12, 2014)

SawTroll said:


> You said "good" - but did you check that the material and the weight is as OEM?
> 
> Chanses are that it isn't!


That part didn't matter so much to me as i I'm not a professional woodsman,
I'm just a plain Ole firewood cutter trying to keep 9 saws running ....... [emoji12] 

Luckily the wood just appears in my driveway now and again.

Mostly oak,ash and maple.


TURBS

How can i annoy OC today?


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## Trx250r180 (Sep 12, 2014)

i have had an aftermarket crank in my milling 660 over a year now with no issues ,also a meteor 460 jug and piston on a 440 with no issues


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## watsonr (Sep 12, 2014)

Trx250r180 said:


> i have had an aftermarket crank in my milling 660 over a year now with no issues ,also a meteor 460 jug and piston on a 440 with no issues



Yes Sir..


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## Trx250r180 (Sep 12, 2014)

watsonr said:


> Yes Sir..



I have been happy with the other stuff i have ordered from you also ,fast shipping ,nice packaging also ,I sent another meteor 460 kit out to a production logger to run daily ,just to see how they do in the real world.


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## surfincr (Sep 17, 2014)

i have to say i'm surprised this thread died off so quick, i was really hoping we could build a strong review thread


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## Brushwacker (Sep 17, 2014)

I bought some china stuff cheap on auctions but haven't used most. I opened up a metal handle bar package today, looks like it will work. Not sure but the grip may be less soft.


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## redoakneck (Sep 17, 2014)

It is, what it is. Stir fry or brat???


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## stubnail67 (Sep 17, 2014)

i bought some hutzel zama filters and primer bulbs wont know for awhile...... also some fuel line from hong kong....the oregon i been using has to be changed every year so im willing to try it and see.... to soon to say......


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## tallfarmboy (Sep 17, 2014)

I bought some aftermarket M5 and M4 bolts with the T27 head on them from eBay... Save a LOT of money from buying OEM.


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## fearofpavement (Sep 17, 2014)

I just today received a Huztl clutch cover for an 1127 series Stihl. Was surprised to find it made of metal since the oem ones are plastic. Looks great but haven't installed one yet. These are quite often cracked or missing on saws I get so I ordered a couple of them. Also ordered some starter parts as these seem to suffer attrition too. Most of the saws I build, I rob the next saw in line to complete the one I'm working on. It's a bit like mother Hubbard's cupboard after a while though...


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## MnSam (Sep 17, 2014)

Any input on Farmer Tec? I have gaskets/seals/bearings/fuel line for an 026 rebuild that I need to get into. The saw is a bit rough to start with, so thought I'd try AM.


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## fearofpavement (Sep 18, 2014)

I use a lot of the farmer tec parts and have been happy with them so far.

I have some added input as of today as a customer I sold a 49mm Huztl cylinder kit saw to brought it back for service. I pulled the exhaust and the piston/cylinder still looks great. He cuts firewood to sell with this saw and has used it extensively for almost two years now. I put a new rim/drum sprocket on it (he supplied it) and it was having some bogging issues. finally traced it down to a bad chain (dull). I put a new chain on it and the problem went away (he tested it in my wood). He didn't want a new chain so I pulled it back off, put his on and sent him on his way. I serviced the bar for him too as it had some wear on the rails.
This is the second time I've seen this saw since I rebuilt it and it has continued to run strong. He's been extremely happy with it.


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## watsonr (Sep 19, 2014)

Hutzl and Farmer tech are the same stuff.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Sep 19, 2014)

watsonr said:


> Hutzl and Farmer tech are the same stuff.


Good information, glad you posted it. I figure that you know this stuff...


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## TheManOfStihl (Sep 19, 2014)

I have used many parts from Huztl/ Farmer Tec as well. So far I am happy with them, and my customers are too. They like the fact that I can save them money on repairs over the cost of going genuine on big ticket items, like piston and cylinder kits.

Specific examples: Piston and cylinder for my MS440 as well as a recoil assembly. Recoil was metal and works great. Piston and cylinder still going strong, no issues with power. Not sure how many tanks of fuel but quite a few. 20-30 tanks if I had to guess.

MS200T piston and cylinder, carb, fuel line and filter. Still doing great, probably 20 tanks of fuel through it now.

MS250 carb, 029 carb, 044 oil pump and worm, M5 screws, 025 coils, 066 rear plastic cover...

Have used sprockets and clutches from them with no issues. Crankshaft for my MS440 project with bearings and seals doing fine. Piston and cylinder for 029 running great. Worms and oil pumps doing well.

I guess I'm not much help if I don't have any complaints, huh? I honestly have had little trouble from aftermarket parts as of yet. Yes, fitment sometimes is a little off, but rarely to the point that it adds a lot of time to the repair. If it doesn't fit, it doesn't get installed on my customer's saws. I have gone genuine due to fitment before. If that air filter doesn't fit, it's going to dust the engine. I can't have that on my customer's saws. I have started going genuine Stihl on air filters lately. MS170/180 not so much since it's just a piece of felt, but the others have to fit right, and they don't always seem to. That's the only complaint I can think of.

One more comment - The thing I like about the aftermarket carbs is that they have all three adjustment needles on them. I can adjust the carbs when I need to without dealing with the limiter caps. Call me crazy, but I much prefer the old style spring and needles.


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## MustangMike (Sep 20, 2014)

That is great information to know, thanks for sharing. Do you also go OEM on fuel filters? I hear they can also be an issue.


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## TheManOfStihl (Sep 20, 2014)

No, I've used aftermarket fuel filters for awhile now and not had any performance issues. In my mind they are doing well so I will keep on using them.


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## johnlhatfield1 (Sep 20, 2014)

big t double said:


> I put a hutzle (sp?) fuel tank on a guys 660...it was ok, didn't leak or nuttin. The master control lever was pretty flimsy as was the air filter cover that came with it. I tried to fit a stock cover on it but there was fitment issues so just stuck with the am supplied cover and it was all good. I'd say Not a bad option if you want to keep repair cost down.


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## johnlhatfield1 (Sep 20, 2014)

Most of us have a stock of parts-and those are OEM parts. We need a way to share them. Some parts I have used when rebuilding a saw. Putting good used parts on another saw usually is suitable.


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## johnlhatfield1 (Sep 21, 2014)

fearofpavement said:


> I just today received a Huztl clutch cover for an 1127 series Stihl. Was surprised to find it made of metal since the oem ones are plastic. Looks great but haven't installed one yet. These are quite often cracked or missing on saws I get so I ordered a couple of them. Also ordered some starter parts as these seem to suffer attrition too. Most of the saws I build, I rob the next saw in line to complete the one I'm working on. It's a bit like mother Hubbard's cupboard after a while though...


 Yes I agree, we use lots of parts that we have on hand. I never try to fix all of the models of the Stihls that I build-(I keep one saw for parts). It is nice to keep a stockpile


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## splitpost (Sep 21, 2014)

Meteor pistons ,becoming less desirable as an aftermarket piston option,four pistons all with different problems


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## mdavlee (Sep 21, 2014)

splitpost said:


> Meteor pistons ,becoming less desirable as an aftermarket piston option,four pistons all with different problems


What saw was it for?


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## splitpost (Sep 21, 2014)

mdavlee said:


> What saw was it for?


044 and three 026 pistons,all from different suppliers

Sent from my GT-S7500T using Tapatalk 2


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## watsonr (Sep 21, 2014)

any numbers on the boxes, maybe from the same run?


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## mdavlee (Sep 21, 2014)

splitpost said:


> 044 and three 026 pistons,all from different suppliers
> 
> Sent from my GT-S7500T using Tapatalk 2


Just wondering. I've used a few meteors here lately and all of them looked good for 046 and 064.


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## splitpost (Sep 21, 2014)

watsonr said:


> any numbers on the boxes, maybe from the same run?


I'll take a look in the morning,9:34PM here and raining,

Sent from my GT-S7500T using Tapatalk 2


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## DSS (Sep 21, 2014)

I've used a couple of the Hutzl 038 tanks with no problem. A lot of fuel filters, hard to go wrong for a buck. I've had no trouble with them but I've heard others have. Crank seals seem to be doing fine. The air filters are iffy. Some of them look ok and some of them are junk. 

I've never seen a good chinese piston, but some of the cylinders look very good. I got an 038 kit from HL and the jug was very nice but the piston was garbage. I'll stick with Meteor, never a problem yet.


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## fearofpavement (Sep 21, 2014)

I've never seen a good chinese piston, but some of the cylinders look very good. I got an 038 kit from HL and *the jug was very nice but the piston was garbage*. I'll stick with Meteor, never a problem yet.[/QUOTE]
..........................................................................
Could you please provide some specifics regarding what made the piston garbage? ie, flaws/voids in casting? it wasn't round? piston pin wouldn't fit in hole? ring grooves wrong size? not shiny enough?


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## DSS (Sep 21, 2014)

fearofpavement said:


> I've never seen a good chinese piston, but some of the cylinders look very good. I got an 038 kit from HL and *the jug was very nice but the piston was garbage*. I'll stick with Meteor, never a problem yet.


..........................................................................
Could you please provide some specifics regarding what made the piston garbage? ie, flaws/voids in casting? it wasn't round? piston pin wouldn't fit in hole? ring grooves wrong size? not shiny enough?[/QUOTE]



Pin wouldn't go in, the bores weren't machined straight, however that happens. And one of the circlip grooves wasn't deep enough to accept the clip. 

It was quite shiny, no problem there.


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## blsnelling (Sep 21, 2014)

splitpost said:


> Meteor pistons ,becoming less desirable as an aftermarket piston option,four pistons all with different problems


What were the issues with these pistons?


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## splitpost (Sep 21, 2014)

044 with a pin bore not true ,044 -pin would not go all way through no matter what,
026 -circlip groove not deep enough to accept circlip on one side of pin bore ,basically not machined all way around,
026 with crack in piston skirt ,
026 with crack in pin boss
and I have a episan brand 034 that also sports a crack in the pin boss
I realize all brands have their inherent problems for whatever reason but it seems that meteor QC may be slipping


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## splitpost (Sep 21, 2014)

watsonr said:


> any numbers on the boxes, maybe from the same run?


I don't see anything that looks like a batch number


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## Definitive Dave (Sep 21, 2014)

I have purchased from Watsonr in the past and was always happy, and have been pleased in general with Meteor/Camber products for my customers' saws.

My aftermarket experiences as posted at the SH forum recently.

Most of my experience is with Huztl parts for pro model Stihl saws as I have used literally several thousand of them, second only in number to OEM Stihl.
Huztl stihl chain tensioners are less "smooth" than OEM. After installation, you need to work them back and forth with a big screwdriver to get the gears to mesh better.
Huztl MS290 recoil assembly (1 of three used so far I hate homeowner saws) had a sharp burr on the metal cord grommet and cut the cord on the third pull. They replaced it free.
Huztl MS660 (and many others, same part) clutch covers. In my most recent order of 30 covers, one package of 4 had paint problems. They are usable but not perfect enough to sell or use on a customers saw. They replaced for free.
Huztl MS660 complete engine, one arrived with a mangled oil seal, they offered to replace the entire part, but I declined as it was a 2 minute fix.
Huztl MS361 crankcase does not include the impulse hose nipple, just odd and about a $3.50 piece from Stihl.
Huztl stihl flywheels do not come with keys, $.99 from Stihl again just a little odd.
Huztl MS660 tank handle assembly (1 of 10) arrived with cosmetic shipping damage, ugly but usable, they replaced it free.
Huztl MS361 top cover shrouds (2 of 10) arrived with cracks, they replaced them free.
found a few more parts that are utterly shiiiiiiit from Huztl, I am sure they will replace but be aware
1. threaded nuts that are part of the air filter for an MS260 are soft and poorly threaded, two of the four I had on hand were unusable - they replaced
2. the tank vent on both MS260 tank handle assemblies I have are crap, they fail the pressure test after assembly and yanking the pull start a few times - they replaced the entire handle assemblies
Had an MS361 fuel line that I replaced for a customer online who said it split at the filter end after about 2 months of use with marine fuel (no ethanol).
Of the 650+ flippy caps I have bought and sold since July I had two of the small size that wouldn't seal properly.
DDave


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## surfincr (Sep 22, 2014)

I've been really curious about the hutzl parts, sounds like they arent too bad over all and at least their customer service seem really good


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## TheManOfStihl (Sep 23, 2014)

Their customer service is good I've heard too. Huztl is the only one I've dealt with so far. There is another that I've just found, they go by UNGT Warehouse. They sent me a price list for wholesale parts that is pretty much the same thing Huztl sent me. I haven't dealt with these guys yet.

With Huztl, the only issue that I had was an MS440 recoil that I bought from them that had some chips out of the paint and was really apparent. I wanted to return it but my customer stopped by so I showed him. He was okay with it so I sold it almost at cost to him. Everyone was happy, so it turned out okay. We didn't want to wait the 2 weeks to get it from China for a new one.


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## kenny80 (Sep 24, 2014)

Anyone tried a built engine/case from huztl? Ebays got them for $110, just not so sure how the quality could be


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Sep 24, 2014)

Have had good and bad experiences with some of the stuff. Not downing aftermarket parts. I use my share of them. 
I wondered about the 066 crank cases. Anyone here got experience with a build with one?


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Oct 3, 2014)

Bump,
Evidently not on the 066 side. I bought an OEM case and it looks good.


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## cmarti (Oct 3, 2014)

Hyway P&c and gaskets were solid
Huztl carbs for shindiawa & Echo trimmers, stihl saws, ran fine, but still under a year.
Huztl starter cover, suprised how well made
Huztl lines, filters and primers fine
Huztl air filters, fitment problems with OEM cover
Chain brake OK, clutch fit, no run time
Huztl drum an bearing fitment, quality concern


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Oct 3, 2014)

The 281 XP rewind I just bought came like this...
Note the apparent milled section in the bottom left corner.


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## Brushwacker (Oct 3, 2014)

I can't remember if I said something prior but I would be reluctant to buy any more China fuel lines, I don't remember whose I bought but it was a lot of 10 and the filter end of the 1st 1 I tried came apart within an hour after I put it on. Thought I'd confirm since some one else had a similar incident in a prior thread I assume from Hutzl.
On an 066 starter I never used yet it looks to me it isn't that well made. Another starter I ended up with that appeared after market the threads for the starter pulley screw were stripped. I assume the materials these are made of are softer and more delicate, my opinion.
Any body have much experience with the rim sprockets on bigger saws ? I bought 10 3/8 standard spline but haven't used any yet. They look good to me without a side by side comparison of OEM.


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## MustangMike (Oct 3, 2014)

Stihlofadeal64 said:


> The 281 XP rewind I just bought came like this...
> Note the apparent milled section in the bottom left corner.




Did you use the starter, or send it back? Wondering how the function was.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Oct 4, 2014)

actually wrangling with them now about refund/return. If you zoom the picture on their thumb nail
on the add it actually has this place on it. The explanation was they made them with a "trademark" 
on this item and had to remove it in order to sell it. That's a first for me.


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## MustangMike (Oct 4, 2014)

You can't make this stuff up!


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## splitpost (Oct 4, 2014)

Make that 4 026 meteors 

Sent from my GT-S7500T using Tapatalk 2
Three all have the casting crack in the same place ,one has a crack in the pin boss


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## moojpg2 (Oct 4, 2014)

I used a hyway muffler on a 660 and a 460 to switch to dual port, no problems. I rebuilt a makita construction saw that got used dry in concrete without an air filter (cylinder and piston were baaaaad lol) with an am top end and it fired up on the first pull and its got maybe 5-700 hours of commercial use on it with no issues. (Believe it was farmertec or hyway)


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## MustangMike (Oct 14, 2014)

Got my 044 #2 running today, it was the coil. So now the saw has Heztl (Farmer Tech) carb & coil, will see how they perform & hold up.

The carb has a snorkle, which I covered with a piece of cloth & a rubber band. It is labeled ZAMA! The carb also had the thinner adjusting screws, which I prefer.

The coil itself was an exact fit, but the spark plug wire is a little too long, but it works! I adjusted the coil by putting a business card between the coil & the flywheel, then rotating the flywheel till the magnetic portion drew it in. I pressed it a slight bit firmer and tightened it up. She fired right up!

It may be low tech, but it worked. Besides, all my feeler gauges are flat!


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## fearofpavement (Oct 14, 2014)

I got a Huztl brake handle in the mail today but haven't tried it yet. It survived the trip so must be pretty tough!


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Oct 14, 2014)

I am finding that unless you buy from an American seller that does the quality checks
and goes through this stuff, its a crap shoot at best on the kind of quality that will show
up.


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## MustangMike (Oct 14, 2014)

So who does that, and how they going to check the quality of a carb or coil?


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## MustangMike (Apr 23, 2015)

Surprised this thread just died!!! Anyone try those aftermarket engine assemblies for the 044/440? The have them both in standard & big bore.


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## Steffen (Apr 23, 2015)

Has anyone used the bearings for the stihl 090 that is for sale on eBay?? The original one is impossible to kill if god oil is used, but some saws that has not been taken care of, can be bad. I have some aftermaked crank bearings, but has not used them yet. Are they any good? Do they hold up?? I have put a aftermaked piston in one, seems to be good. The saw runs very well with it.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 23, 2015)

I just brought in and installed 3 complete sets of airfilters, airfilter covers and engine top covers for the MS 260 and 3 carbs. The filters seem to be better than the ones I got last year, fit good. The airfilter cover works fine and locks into place good also. The top shroud had a little fitment issue at the left rear where there is a prong that goes into a corresponding hole in the case and there is a molded in bump in the cover just forward of the prong. It required a little trimming to the prong and the bump with a sharp knife to get it to fit nicely, not real hard to do. The carbs all work fine, just like the previous ones I have used.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Apr 23, 2015)

pioneerguy600 said:


> I just brought in and installed 3 complete sets of airfilters, airfilter covers and engine top covers for the MS 260 and 3 carbs. The filters seem to be better than the ones I got last year, fit good. The airfilter cover works fine and locks into place good also. The top shroud had a little fitment issue at the left rear where there is a prong that goes into a corresponding hole in the case and there is a molded in bump in the cover just forward of the prong. It required a little trimming to the prong and the bump with a sharp knife to get it to fit nicely, not real hard to do. The carbs all work fine, just like the previous ones I have used.




I am interested to know if the choke flap work well in these newer ones that you purchased. I bought a few over time. None of these AM filters worked in the 026 or the MS260 series. 
Thanks for posting, let me know.


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 23, 2015)

Stihlofadeal64 said:


> I am interested to know if the choke flap work well in these newer ones that you purchased. I bought a few over time. None of these AM filters worked in the 026 or the MS260 series.
> Thanks for posting, let me know.



They all work fine. What were your issues for them not working?


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Apr 23, 2015)

MustangMike said:


> So who does that, and how they going to check the quality of a carb or coil?



I guess you are right in relation to the parts you specified. There are a few sellers that are brokering some of the stuff and culling out some things that have quality problems. 
If you buy through fleabay you can always get a refund


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## SteveSS (Apr 23, 2015)

Stihlofadeal64 said:


> I guess you are right in relation to the parts you specified. There are a few sellers that are brokering some of the stuff and culling out some things that have quality problems.
> If you buy through fleabay you can always get a refund


Yep. I bought three of the carbs that PG600 speaks of from a guy in California. Have a set of the oil seals coming from a guy in Florida. When I do my searches, I look to see what is shipping from China or Hong Kong, and then I filter my results to only show US sellers so I can buy the same product without the over seas shipping delay.


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## SteveSS (Apr 23, 2015)

The carbs have a quality look and feel to them, but I haven't bolted one up yet. Got them for $16 and some change each with free shipping if you buy two or more.


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## Onan18 (Apr 24, 2015)

Surprised that no one has mentioned the NWP 039/MS390 short blocks. I have installed several over the last three years, two see pretty severe duty on a regular basis, and as of yet no failures. I installed a complete Meteor top end on a MS260 and it runs stronger than my stock 44 mm 026. Have used several HL Supply pistons, NWP pistons, and Meteors in various saws and no problems so far. Also used an Oregon air filter (mesh) on a MS260 and it works great.

Joe


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## marne (Apr 24, 2015)

Bought a Stihl 076 / 760 muffler cover, bad painting and one screw hole was far away from where it should be, but generally fitted except of this screw.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Apr 24, 2015)

pioneerguy600 said:


> They all work fine. What were your issues for them not working?


The choke flap mechanism would not function properly on every one I purchased. Glad you had success with yours.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Apr 24, 2015)

SteveSS said:


> View attachment 420773
> 
> 
> The carbs have a quality look and feel to them, but I haven't bolted one up yet. Got them for $16 and some change each with free shipping if you buy two or more.


Most of these carbs work fine. Do the ones you purchased have ZAMA on the plate?


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## pioneerguy600 (Apr 24, 2015)

Stihlofadeal64 said:


> The choke flap mechanism would not function properly on every one I purchased. Glad you had success with yours.



They seem kinda straight forward on the ones I got from Huztl/ they came in a Forester branded bag. The frame assembly seemed solid and I checked the cross shaft and flap, function and alignment were perfect but they use a coil spring on the end of the shaft as a return spring instead of the OEM setup. It seems simple but time will tell if it holds up well, when installed it functions well with the master control switch. The saws all start cold fine, just the same as they did with OEM filter choke setups. I now have these filters on 6 of my own saws.


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## SteveSS (Apr 24, 2015)

Stihlofadeal64 said:


> Most of these carbs work fine. Do the ones you purchased have ZAMA on the plate?


Yes. They do.


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## MustangMike (Apr 24, 2015)

I thought all of the Huztl stuff was packaged as Farmer Tech? And yes, the carb I got for my 044 says ZAMA on it and seems to function well.


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## DSS (Apr 25, 2015)

Not all the Huztl stuff is packaged as farmertec. And there is farmertec stuff coming from other places than Huztl.


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## Fritzy (Jun 15, 2015)

I'm not a chainsaw expert, but I just completed a 025 build, some new OEM Stihl parts just were not in the budget right now. I wanted to keep the guts Stihl ( cylinder, piston, crank, carb, etc). But the AM parts were cheap, I had good luck with some, not so much on the others.

The good
AM chain break cover
Replacement rubber buffers
Fuel/oil lines: no issues so far. Filters seem to work. How this cheaper rubber will hold up to the fuel, that's TBD, but no issues so far.
Clutch cover: little cheesy looking, but seems durable.
Air filter elements: little finicky, but no complaints 

The bad
Air filter cover: seems okay made, but does not line up with the 025's OEM handle, appears to possible for the squares off top of the ms250, but not the 025.

The "we will see"
Got a AM exhast, seems to work good but unlike the OEM unit, the aftermarket one is one piece. There is no way to access the spark arrest or screen or make the exhast hole bigger if you wanted too.

I did order some large AM bucking spikes, just because. They work great.


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## fearofpavement (Jun 15, 2015)

I just received three shipments today of aftermarket Stihl parts. I got bucking spikes (for big Stihls) a clutch cover and a rim/drum for a Stihl MS660. I haven't installed any of these yet.
The dual dog sets that are sold for the MS660 work great and can be used with the roller catcher. The same set is also sold for the 044/046/MS440/MS460 and they don't line up well enough for the roller catcher to find the hole on the inner dog. If you're not using the roller catcher, they work well enough.


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## Fritzy (Jun 15, 2015)

I stand corrected, the air filter cover is rounded on the AM, not squared off like in the 0 series, seems to fit with the ms250....don't have a 250 to prove it, but that's what it looks like


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## fearofpavement (Jun 15, 2015)

DSS said:


> Not all the Huztl stuff is packaged as farmertec. And there is farmertec stuff coming from other places than Huztl.


Exactly. Farmertec is a manufacturer and Huztl is a seller. There is "machinesdoctor" which is also Huztl. They ship in the same yellow tape balls. I have received Farmertec parts from other distributors. I buy the majority of my Asian parts from Huztl but also use Wangluo and some others.


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## fearofpavement (Jun 15, 2015)

Fritzy said:


> I stand corrected, the air filter cover is rounded on the AM, not squared off like in the 0 series, seems to fit with the ms250....don't have a 250 to prove it, but that's what it looks like


Most of the aftermarket distributors do not understand the differences between the O and MS series Stihls and advertise the parts for models they don't fit. Studying the pics is the best thing.


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## Fritzy (Jun 15, 2015)

fearofpavement said:


> Most of the aftermarket distributors do not understand the differences between the O and MS series Stihls and advertise the parts for models they don't fit. Studying the pics is the best thing.


 I figured thAt out after ordering, but it was a three buck mistake with the free shipping, I have a OEM case with a scored piston on another 025, going to try the meteor piston...more to follow


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## Somesawguy (Aug 9, 2015)

I need to replace the fuel line, impulse line, filter, and intake boot on a 025 Stihl for my dad. Are all of the aftermarket parts about the same, or should I stick with a particular seller? 

Is there an online seller of OEM parts? Locally, they are very very expensive for even basic parts.


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## fearofpavement (Aug 9, 2015)

I've had good experience with the Farmertec parts but it isn't known other than by experience who sells those. Huztl, machinesdoctor, wangluo and others sell Farmertec.
As far as online Stihl parts, invariably parts cost less at the dealer than someone online selling original Stihl parts unless it's NOS or something like that.


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## fearofpavement (Aug 9, 2015)

Fritzy said:


> I figured thAt out after ordering, but it was a three buck mistake with the free shipping, I have a OEM case with a scored piston on another 025, going to try the meteor piston...more to follow


You can use MS series plastics on the 025, you just can't mix them. If you have an MS handle to go with the air filter cover, that will work.


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## DSS (Aug 11, 2015)

fearofpavement said:


> Exactly. Farmertec is a manufacturer and Huztl is a seller. There is "machinesdoctor" which is also Huztl. They ship in the same yellow tape balls. I have received Farmertec parts from other distributors. I buy the majority of my Asian parts from Huztl but also use Wangluo and some others.


I think they're all one and the same. I say this because I've ordered on the same day from at least four different places, and had the whole order arrive together in the same ball of grey plastic.

I've also ordered four things on the same day from the same seller, and had them all arrive separately.


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## Brushwacker (May 26, 2016)

Anybody have AM handle bar issues ? How about Farmertec's on an ms660 ?


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## MustangMike (May 26, 2016)

Don't remember the brand, but got two AM for the 440 & 044 ($14 each/free shipping) w/screws, and they work just like OEM to me. Good fit & feel, and no problems so far.


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## Frogfarmer (May 26, 2016)

I tried a handle for an 038 and it was weak. It worked and is still attached but I do have to be careful not to tweak it. Also bought a plastic one for an 026 and I have no complaints at all with that one. Could be hit or miss.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 26, 2016)

fearofpavement said:


> I've never seen a good chinese piston, but some of the cylinders look very good. I got an 038 kit from HL and *the jug was very nice but the piston was garbage*. I'll stick with Meteor, never a problem yet.


..........................................................................
Could you please provide some specifics regarding what made the piston garbage? ie, flaws/voids in casting? it wasn't round? piston pin wouldn't fit in hole? ring grooves wrong size? not shiny enough?[/QUOTE]
I've not had a piston failure yet and have installed quite a few, not all on Stihls however.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 26, 2016)

MustangMike said:


> Got my 044 #2 running today, it was the coil. So now the saw has Heztl (Farmer Tech) carb & coil, will see how they perform & hold up.
> 
> The carb has a snorkle, which I covered with a piece of cloth & a rubber band. It is labeled ZAMA! The carb also had the thinner adjusting screws, which I prefer.
> 
> ...


 I think you can use the old diaphragm cover off a similar Zama without the snorkel.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 27, 2016)

I don't know if the Chinese are improving some of the products or just selling the same stuff they did but I know the 290 fuel lines won't work, they kink. I had an issue with the 029 buffer plugs not fitting, ordered some screws for 029 and they weren't the same threads. Most of the plastics on the 1127 series saws fit but didn't look original, like their starter assys. I kinda like their clutch covers, very nice. Haven't had any trouble with any parts on the MS250 series except for the choke actuator rod being the wrong shape, ended up making my own. Stihl 041 air filters wouldn't fit, ended up trashcanning them.


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## Khntr85 (May 27, 2016)

I have bought a clutch cover for my ms362 and just recently got a farmer tec whole engine to put in a ms180.... The clutch cover is identical to OEM, and the whole engine I put in the ms180 has 3-4 tanks threw it and seems to be running great..... Only time will tell how long the engine will last!!!


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## Frogfarmer (May 27, 2016)

I should have mentioned the Clutch covers for the Stihls from Farmertec are excellent quality. Over the years I have tried several from different places. I typically try to order from somebody that has stock here in the states. The ones from Farmertec that came direct from China were the nicest. Several years ago I ordered one that I would swear was an OEM with the Logo ground off and repowder coated.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 27, 2016)

Frogfarmer said:


> I should have mentioned the Clutch covers for the Stihls from Farmertec are excellent quality. Over the years I have tried several from different places. I typically try to order from somebody that has stock here in the states. The ones from Farmertec that came direct from China were the nicest. Several years ago I ordered one that I would swear was an OEM with the Logo ground off and repowder coated.


 I've bought 3 or 4 of them and have to agree. Someone on here stated they were made of metal which I hadn't realized. Might be one case where the AM might be better than OEM.


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## altair (May 27, 2016)

Guess this isn't aftermarket parts as such, but here in NZ we are flooded with Chinese bars and chains, one called Tri Link I tried a few years back, the chain stretched very easily and didn't hold an edge long, so wasn't impressed.May have improved since, but, well...one bitten, twice shy for me. But have one called "Longer" here in NZ available through an auction site, that chain is excellent, holds a sharp edge just as well as the Oregon chain, and lasts very well. Bars are pretty crappy, tend to chip off near the sprocket early, despite maximum oiling and cleaning. On an MS440. Okay for the home firewood guy though, considering you can get a 24 inch bar and chain combo for about $80NZ.
Have heard of the chinese fuel filters being total rubbish, falling off the line and not filtering well, same with chinese air filters.
I run Sugi Hara bars and Longer branded chains on the 440 and 661, been really happy with that setup.

On another note I purchased a chinese 4 in 1 pole trimmer/chainsaw/edger/weed whacker for $450, as couldn't justify the $1800 for the Stihl system, well I sold that chinese junk 4 months later (1 month warranty) for $100 and was happy to see the end of it. If people think chines chainsaw are rubbish, they need to try these 4 in 1 pole trimmers. True crap.

Fitted a chinese no name piston and cylinder to a friends 660 a couple of years back, which has held up really well, it still has excellent compression and a ton of grunt, here in NZ a P/C kit for a 660 aftermarket runs about $180, genuine Stihl would no doubt be three times that.

Personally would never buy chinese filters, rubbers, gaskets, bearings or cranks...otherwise for the cost savings (especially here in NZ) their chains, clutches and plastics are great value.


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## raumati01 (May 27, 2016)

I've been looking at those $450 combos on trademe but theres so much imported junk on there I decided it wasn't worth the risk. I picked up a stihl combi , ms250 and fs 85 for $85 the other day, apart from the ms 250 they are all in the sort of miserable condition you'd expect for that price.


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## altair (May 27, 2016)

Wow, well done..for that money parts alone would be worth a lot more, the MS250 seem to be a good saw?


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## a. palmer jr. (May 27, 2016)

I didn't realize how good the MS250 was until I had a bunch of wood to cut up. Kinda reminded me of my old Super EZ with the power to weight thing. Since I'm not a teenager I've kinda taken to the lighter saws. One thing about these Stihl homeowner saws, if something breaks it doesn't cost much to fix it.


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## raumati01 (May 28, 2016)

altair said:


> Wow, well done..for that money parts alone would be worth a lot more, the MS250 seem to be a good saw?



They don't get a lot of love here because they are a clamshell homeowners saw but the first saw I ever rebuilt was an ms 250 which should give you an idea of how easy they are to fix. I like them, I wouldn't buy one new but when they come up cheap on trademe I buy them. 

Whereabouts in NZ are you? I'm in Porirua.


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## altair (May 28, 2016)

raumati01 said:


> They don't get a lot of love here because they are a clamshell homeowners saw but the first saw I ever rebuilt was an ms 250 which should give you an idea of how easy they are to fix. I like them, I wouldn't buy one new but when they come up cheap on trademe I buy them.
> 
> Whereabouts in NZ are you? I'm in Porirua.


I'm an hour north in the Horowhenua area. Mate has an MS250 which has been used, abused, and for a long time...still runs like new, along with his 038..that it seems, must be one of Stihls best saws. Muffler mod helped it along.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 28, 2016)

As long as the engine cradle (the plastic part) isn't too much torn up it can be fixed. The Chinese now even make the engine cradle, fuel and oil tank assembly and they're not too expensive.


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## raumati01 (May 28, 2016)

altair said:


> I'm an hour north in the Horowhenua area. Mate has an MS250 which has been used, abused, and for a long time...still runs like new, along with his 038..that it seems, must be one of Stihls best saws. Muffler mod helped it along.



I used to live in Kapiti, I just sold my 070 to a guy in Levin. The 038 became the 380 which became the 381 which we get but can't be sold in the states. One of those 381s would be a good score at the right price.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 28, 2016)

I just ran across a 36" bar at the local flea market and bought it. Wondering if it'll work on my MS390? Seems awfully big. It says on it ".404 .063." It's a solid nose bar, brand new so the pitch might be changed to 3/8-063 I guess.


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## fearofpavement (May 29, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I just ran across a 36" bar at the local flea market and bought it. Wondering if it'll work on my MS390? Seems awfully big. It says on it ".404 .063." It's a solid nose bar, brand new so the pitch might be changed to 3/8-063 I guess.


That bar may be a 3002 mount. If so it won't work on an MS390. That and a 36" is way too much bar for that saw even if it is the same mount. Start shopping for a bigger saw if you need that much bar...


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## a. palmer jr. (May 29, 2016)

fearofpavement said:


> That bar may be a 3002 mount. If so it won't work on an MS390. That and a 36" is way too much bar for that saw even if it is the same mount. Start shopping for a bigger saw if you need that much bar...


 I was kinda kidding. I have another 390 I rebuilt and have an 18" bar on it, my latest has a 20" and that's big enough. I was looking at saws at the flea market, didn't find any I wanted but did run across this big bar which I don't have anything it would work on. I'll probably trade it to a local shop for something I need.
Another thing, the 390 mount is plastic and wouldn't hold up too well under heavy cutting in big stuff.


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## ssm1699 (May 31, 2016)

I just started for the first time the other day, since finishing the rebuild, my 029 Super with a FarmerTec 039/390 p&c on it. Once it fired, I was running and I got it tuned. Let it sit for 24hrs and it popped on the first pull with full choke. Backed it to half choke/full throttle and it fired on the second pull. That saw hasn't started that well in along time for me. I haven't even put a tank through it yet, but my first impressions so far are that it is pretty darn good. I got the P&C off ebay and was very pleased with the seller. He gave me good advice on doing the rebuild. While I was in, I also replaced the main bearings with new skf bearing. Everything that I put in, has been pretty good. The only thing I found that was junk for AM was the fuel line.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 31, 2016)

ssm1699 said:


> I just started for the first time the other day, since finishing the rebuild, my 029 Super with a FarmerTec 039/390 p&c on it. Once it fired, I was running and I got it tuned. Let it sit for 24hrs and it popped on the first pull with full choke. Backed it to half choke/full throttle and it fired on the second pull. That saw hasn't started that well in along time for me. I haven't even put a tank through it yet, but my first impressions so far are that it is pretty darn good. I got the P&C off ebay and was very pleased with the seller. He gave me good advice on doing the rebuild. While I was in, I also replaced the main bearings with new skf bearing. Everything that I put in, has been pretty good. The only thing I found that was junk for AM was the fuel line.


 You could use the new fuel line just for the grommet in the middle and run tygon through the middle of it, so it's not a total loss. A fellow member posted a pic of the line on AS somewhere..


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## ssm1699 (May 31, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> You could use the new fuel line just for the grommet in the middle and run tygon through the middle of it, so it's not a total loss. A fellow member posted a pic of the line on AS somewhere..



I saw that on the other post. I don't have any tygon right now and I haven't thrown the AM fuel line away. I just didn't use it after I saw it was kinking when I was putting the carb back in. I put the line that I had in it, back in and haven't had any issues with it yet. I checked it over before I put it back in though. Everything has been great other wise.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 31, 2016)

If the old fuel line doesn't leak it would be better than the new AM one. I did exactly what you did on my last 390 build.


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## Brushwacker (Jun 1, 2016)

It should be against the law to sell junk that doesn't work like them fuel lines. What a waste of time let alone the few dollars less 1 has to buy the good after they find out it doesn't work.


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## Khntr85 (Jun 1, 2016)

ssm1699 said:


> I just started for the first time the other day, since finishing the rebuild, my 029 Super with a FarmerTec 039/390 p&c on it. Once it fired, I was running and I got it tuned. Let it sit for 24hrs and it popped on the first pull with full choke. Backed it to half choke/full throttle and it fired on the second pull. That saw hasn't started that well in along time for me. I haven't even put a tank through it yet, but my first impressions so far are that it is pretty darn good. I got the P&C off ebay and was very pleased with the seller. He gave me good advice on doing the rebuild. While I was in, I also replaced the main bearings with new skf bearing. Everything that I put in, has been pretty good. The only thing I found that was junk for AM was the fuel line.



Hey man I will be interested in how your kit turns out.... I put a whole complete new engine in a ms180 and it's got about 3 tanks threw it.... I put it in shagbark hickory yesterday and I didn't take it easy on her at all...the damn thing impresses me more every time I start it....

Let me ask you this, did you consider just putting a complete engine assembly in or was it to pricey.... Only reason I ask is because when my ol ms290 dies I will be doing the same thing.... Thanks a lot Kyle


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 1, 2016)

I rebuilt a 290 using a 390 kit but I also built a 290 using a 290 p/c and they both impress me but I think I was most impressed by the 250 I built from parts. I used a 3/8 Lo Profile bar and chain on it and it zips through the wood. It probably wouldn't be as impressive with a big bar and chain though..


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 1, 2016)

Khntr85 said:


> Hey man I will be interested in how your kit turns out.... I put a whole complete new engine in a ms180 and it's got about 3 tanks threw it.... I put it in shagbark hickory yesterday and I didn't take it easy on her at all...the damn thing impresses me more every time I start it....
> 
> Let me ask you this, did you consider just putting a complete engine assembly in or was it to pricey.... Only reason I ask is because when my ol ms290 dies I will be doing the same thing.... Thanks a lot Kyle


 Much cheaper to rebuild your engine with a p/c kit and new seals than to buy a new engine. Those 390 kits have really come down in price in the last few months..


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## Khntr85 (Jun 1, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Much cheaper to rebuild your engine with a p/c kit and new seals than to buy a new engine. Those 390 kits have really come down in price in the last few months..



Hey thanks a lot..... Go figure you would figure they would make it cheaper to buy whole engine, and clamshell isn't the most fun to work on lol.... Thanks a lot for the info... Wonder what the price difference is???


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## Khntr85 (Jun 1, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I rebuilt a 290 using a 390 kit but I also built a 290 using a 290 p/c and they both impress me but I think I was most impressed by the 250 I built from parts. I used a 3/8 Lo Profile bar and chain on it and it zips through the wood. It probably wouldn't be as impressive with a big bar and chain though..


Oh and did you notice a big difference when you put the 390 kit in the 290.... Thanks a lot kyle


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## Khntr85 (Jun 1, 2016)

Oh and I just rebuilt a ms180 and I put a Chinese whole engine assembly in it..... The damn thing has mad me surprised every time I start it.... I put it into some shag bark hickory yesterday, and she didn't have one problem..... I am anxious to see how kind this $40 motor will last!!!!!


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 1, 2016)

Khntr85 said:


> Hey thanks a lot..... Go figure you would figure they would make it cheaper to buy whole engine, and clamshell isn't the most fun to work on lol.... Thanks a lot for the info... Wonder what the price difference is???


 On a Stihl 290 you don't need to buy all the new parts that are in the complete engine such as crankshaft, crankcase bottom, clutch, and the other stuff they put in the complete engine, all you need are a piston and cylinder and new crank seals, assuming everything else is okay. On the previous ones I've rebuilt I had perfectly good crankshafts, bearings, and everything else, just a scored cylinder. I changed the p/c and seals, of course cleaning everything else up, and checking the intake and pulse hoses, think I did put a new pulse hose on them. On one of them I put a new intake on also because it looked old and brittle. No need to buy what you already have..


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 1, 2016)

Uhh, I'm the odd exception in that I don't mind working on the clamshell saws.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 1, 2016)

Khntr85 said:


> Oh and did you notice a big difference when you put the 390 kit in the 290.... Thanks a lot kyle


 Not especially but I haven't really ran either enough to get used to them. They both have 18" bars on them so they both zip through the kind of wood we have here but I imagine I could easily put a longer bar on the 390. I've only used them one or two days and not very long at a time. Since I'm far from a full time wood cutter I will probably keep one of these for what little wood I cut anymore and probably sell the pro saws but I'm gonna do some more testing to be sure..


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## altair (Jun 2, 2016)

Anyone here bought a chink bolt in saw engine or P/C and run them at 50:1? Can't see them lasting long at all....any chinese equipment like saws in NZ they advise 25:1 only...would love to see one being used with 40 or 50:1 and see how long it keeps good compression and lasts.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2016)

altair said:


> Anyone here bought a chink bolt in saw engine or P/C and run them at 50:1? Can't see them lasting long at all....any chinese equipment like saws in NZ they advise 25:1 only...would love to see one being used with 40 or 50:1 and see how long it keeps good compression and lasts.


I don't run anything 50:1 unless I'm trying to tear it up. I go around 35 to 40 to one on everything and I've not had a problem. Starting to have a little problem with compression on my Lawn Boy mower that I've used every week, bought it new in 1982..
On another post on AS they have a Stihl ad saying they are expanding their Chinese factory to about double the size that it was. Sounds like AM and OEM are gonna be very similar in the future. Stihl could just buy their parts from Huztl and avoid all the building costs...


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## Khntr85 (Jun 2, 2016)

altair said:


> Anyone here bought a chink bolt in saw engine or P/C and run them at 50:1? Can't see them lasting long at all....any chinese equipment like saws in NZ they advise 25:1 only...would love to see one being used with 40 or 50:1 and see how long it keeps good compression and lasts.



Now I know people will freak out, but I run stihl grey bottle at 45:1 with 93 gas and I have never had any problems.....my ms250 I bought new about 4 years ago was ran on 50:1 gray bottle until this year..... I really only switched to 45:1 this year because I got a new stihl trimmer and other new saw, and figured it wouldn't hurt.... I have taken my ms250 apart and the piston looks new still, and no carbon build up on top of piston...I also have this new Chinese engine in a ms180, and since i like limbing with it I am keeping it.... It has had 4 tanks threw it so far and the last tank I was limbing shagbark hickory, and bucking pieces up to about 8".....

So anyway as you said I am anxious to see how long this engine last, as it works great now.... As far as the 45:1 mix hurting the engine I don't know..... I have read MANY of the great oil debate threads.....I mean a saw can definitely have to much oil, and get carbon deposits, which in turn can break loose and cause problems....

I should add that my saws are all stock except for some muffler mods....


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## Khntr85 (Jun 2, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Not especially but I haven't really ran either enough to get used to them. They both have 18" bars on them so they both zip through the kind of wood we have here but I imagine I could easily put a longer bar on the 390. I've only used them one or two days and not very long at a time. Since I'm far from a full time wood cutter I will probably keep one of these for what little wood I cut anymore and probably sell the pro saws but I'm gonna do some more testing to be sure..



Ya I bet with a 20" bar you would surely tell a difference in the 390.....I have a ms362, and now I don't use my ms290 much at..... What pro saw do you have....


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2016)

Khntr85 said:


> Ya I bet with a 20" bar you would surely tell a difference in the 390.....I have a ms362, and now I don't use my ms290 much at..... What pro saw do you have....


I have a MS361, 362XP Husky, MS280, 346XPand 353, Dolmar 5100S a couple of top handles. The rest are homeowners and older saws.
Actually, the latest 390 I've built has a 20" bar on it but I haven't gotten to use it yet.


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## ssm1699 (Jun 2, 2016)

Khntr85 said:


> Hey man I will be interested in how your kit turns out.... I put a whole complete new engine in a ms180 and it's got about 3 tanks threw it.... I put it in shagbark hickory yesterday and I didn't take it easy on her at all...the damn thing impresses me more every time I start it....
> 
> Let me ask you this, did you consider just putting a complete engine assembly in or was it to pricey.... Only reason I ask is because when my ol ms290 dies I will be doing the same thing.... Thanks a lot Kyle



I considered doing a fully assembled kit, but the difference in price is what killed it for me. I was/am tight on funds, I went the cheaper route and spread out the purchasing of my parts. I don't mind doing the work to save me some money and I am able to learn about what I have in equipment. Doing everything I have done, I only have $100 total in everything I put into the saw. I currently have ran a tank of fuel in the saw and it has been running beautifully through that single tank. I am noticing that the compression is building as it is breaking in. I did a little noodling with it, right after I got it tuned and I could notice the difference in power. I am also not having any issues with it idling anymore. If I can come up with another 029/MS290 that the p&c are fried in, for cheap, I will probably clean up my old ones as they really weren't all that bad and build another saw.


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## Khntr85 (Jun 2, 2016)

ssm1699 said:


> I considered doing a fully assembled kit, but the difference in price is what killed it for me. I was/am tight on funds, I went the cheaper route and spread out the purchasing of my parts. I don't mind doing the work to save me some money and I am able to learn about what I have in equipment. Doing everything I have done, I only have $100 total in everything I put into the saw. I currently have ran a tank of fuel in the saw and it has been running beautifully through that single tank. I am noticing that the compression is building as it is breaking in. I did a little noodling with it, right after I got it tuned and I could notice the difference in power. I am also not having any issues with it idling anymore. If I can come up with another 029/MS290 that the p&c are fried in, for cheap, I will probably clean up my old ones as they really weren't all that bad and build another saw.


 
Ya once she breaks in she have better compression.... Ya the whole engine was only $45 for the ms180 I just did.... I think the last time I looked for around $70 you can get a 390 engine... Maybe if you do another one you could look around on eBay and save even more money.... If you don't mind me asking what kind of gas mix and what ratio do you use on your saws....

I am like you though, I don't care if it's a pro saw or a clamshell..... For the right price I will buy either one to rebuild, I also like tearing into them and bringing them back to life!!!!!

It will be interesting to see how long your and my rebuilds last.... Did you use Chinese parts like I did???


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## ssm1699 (Jun 2, 2016)

Khntr85 said:


> Ya once she breaks in she have better compression.... Ya the whole engine was only $45 for the ms180 I just did.... I think the last time I looked for around $70 you can get a 390 kit.... Maybe if you do another one you could look around on eBay and save even more money.... If you don't mind me asking what kind of mix and what ratio do you use on your saws....
> 
> I am like you though, I don't care if it's a pro saw or a clamshell..... For the right price I will buy either one to rebuild, I also like tearing into them and bringing them back to life!!!!!
> 
> It will be interesting to see how long your and my rebuilds last.... Did you use Chinese parts like I did???



I am currently running 40:1 with 91 octane fuel. The oil I am using it the standard Stihl 2 stroke oil, in the orange bottles. I tend to run my mixes a little heavier on oil because I look at oil as being cheap insurance for my equipment. I use that thought especially since all of my mowers are 2 stroke Lawn Boys and you can't buy a new 2 stroke Lawn Boy anymore. I need the 2 stroke mower because of the steep terraces that I have. I also add Sta-Bil and Seafoam to my fuel cans. I have always noticed a difference in my used equipment when I started adding Seafoam. The P&C that I am running is a Farmertec kit. I spent $75 on the kit, because it was the cheapest kit I could find that had all the parts, but the crank bearings, that actually stated that it was Nikasil lined. There were a couple of cheaper kits, but none of them specifically stated that they were Nikasil lined. I even messaged several of the sellers of the cheaper kits, asking if they were Nikasil lined and never heard from any of them. The kit that I bought, the seller was great to communicate with. The kit was from ebay. I think it has dropped in price since I bought it. The cheapest full engine kit on ebay that I could find, that also stated that it was Nikasil lined, I think was about $110. But like I said before, I also like knowing how to completely tear into my equipment and work on them. I also have an aftermarket carb for my 029 Super farmboss, of which now has the 039/390 top end on it. I bought it so that I could have a second carb for it. I have also done the MM to it. My original main bearings were fine, but they had the plastic bearing cages and I know they are known for failing. It cost me $12 with shipping, for 2 brand new SKF 6203/C3 bearings, so that I knew what I had. The bearings were easy to replace anyways and while I was in, why not do them.


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## ssm1699 (Jun 2, 2016)

This is the exact kit that I used for my rebuild.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-029-0...4527df&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=141956616582

It has dropped in price by $5 since I bought it.


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## Khntr85 (Jun 2, 2016)

ssm1699 said:


> I am currently running 40:1 with 91 octane fuel. The oil I am using it the standard Stihl 2 stroke oil, in the orange bottles. I tend to run my mixes a little heavier on oil because I look at oil as being cheap insurance for my equipment. I use that thought especially since all of my mowers are 2 stroke Lawn Boys and you can't buy a new 2 stroke Lawn Boy anymore. I need the 2 stroke mower because of the steep terraces that I have. I also add Sta-Bil and Seafoam to my fuel cans. I have always noticed a difference in my used equipment when I started adding Seafoam. The P&C that I am running is a Farmertec kit. I spent $75 on the kit, because it was the cheapest kit I could find that had all the parts, but the crank bearings, that actually stated that it was Nikasil lined. There were a couple of cheaper kits, but none of them specifically stated that they were Nikasil lined. I even messaged several of the sellers of the cheaper kits, asking if they were Nikasil lined and never heard from any of them. The kit that I bought, the seller was great to communicate with. The kit was from ebay. I think it has dropped in price since I bought it. The cheapest full engine kit on ebay that I could find, that also stated that it was Nikasil lined, I think was about $110. But like I said before, I also like knowing how to completely tear into my equipment and work on them. I also have an aftermarket carb for my 029 Super farmboss, of which now has the 039/390 top end on it. I bought it so that I could have a second carb for it. I have also done the MM to it. My original main bearings were fine, but they had the plastic bearing cages and I know they are known for failing. It cost me $12 with shipping, for 2 brand new SKF 6203/C3 bearings, so that I knew what I had. The bearings were easy to replace anyways and while I was in, why not do them.



Ya hopefully we both have good luck with these farmer tec parts.... I have heard people have good luck with them so we will see....


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2016)

I run Lawn Boys also but I don't use the same fuel in them that I do in my saws because the mowers use so much more. I use non-ethanol fuel in the saws and ethanol fuel in the Lawn Boy mowers and I used to use Stihl oil but have switched to Echo 2 stroke oil because that's what my local dealer has, really don't notice any difference. I got by a little cheaper on my kit, I bought the p/c separately from the seals and spent around $35 or so to change it over to a 390.


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## ssm1699 (Jun 2, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I run Lawn Boys also but I don't use the same fuel in them that I do in my saws because the mowers use so much more. I use non-ethanol fuel in the saws and ethanol fuel in the Lawn Boy mowers and I used to use Stihl oil but have switched to Echo 2 stroke oil because that's what my local dealer has, really don't notice any difference. I got by a little cheaper on my kit, I bought the p/c separately from the seals and spent around $35 or so to change it over to a 390.



I run 32:1 or heavier through my Lawn Boys. The thinner mix is for my chainsaws and weed eater only. I think that gas that I mixed for the Lawn Boys is sitting about 26:1 right now. I won't run any lighter than 32:1 in them though. I don't run ethanol in any of my small engines or my outboard. I use the stihl oil because the other small engine shop is a crappy place to deal with and I don't want to deal with them. I also don't really want to run walmart 2stroke oil in my gear. Did your jug have a decomp port? Mine did and the kit included the plug to plug it off since I don't have and didn't want a decomp on my saw.



Khntr85 said:


> Ya hopefully we both have good luck with these farmer tec parts.... I have heard people have good luck with them so we will see....



From what I have read, everyone that has posted anything on the Farmer Tec p&cs have had good luck. I am really looking forward to seeing how it does down the road, as well. The only issue I had with my kit was that the ground wire screw hole on the jug was bigger than the original. Luckily a 10-32x1/2 screw fit perfectly for securing the ground wire to the jug. The seller I got my kit from, said that he has this exact kit in customers saws, that have been in service for 7 years now and no problems with them. Don't know if that is commercial use or home owner use. My guess would be home owner.


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## Definitive Dave (Jun 2, 2016)

ssm1699 said:


> This is the exact kit that I used for my rebuild.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-029-039-MS290-MS310-MS390-piston-and-cylinder-kit-49mm-W-oil-sealBig-Bore/131834336228?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20140602152332&meid=015b56082e7f45039a03bf4e674527df&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=141956616582
> 
> It has dropped in price by $5 since I bought it.




heck I sell it for $20 less than that and have for years 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-chain...der-kit-with-oil-seals-bearing-/221725092196?
or with the decomp valve if you prefer
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-chain...t-with-oil-seals-bearing-valve-/321706173204?

Capitalist Dave


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## ssm1699 (Jun 2, 2016)

Definitive Dave said:


> heck I sell it for $20 less than that and have for years
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-chain...der-kit-with-oil-seals-bearing-/221725092196?
> or with the decomp valve if you prefer
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-chain...t-with-oil-seals-bearing-valve-/321706173204?
> ...



Nice to know that. Maybe I should have joined this site before I started to do my rebuild and bought my parts. Stuff happens. We all live and learn, sometimes the hard way.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2016)

My kits didn't come with a de-comp port although they would be nice on the 390s, don't think it's necessary on the 290 though. I think when they upped the displacement the compression ratio went up a bit also but never measured it.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2016)

Definitive Dave said:


> heck I sell it for $20 less than that and have for years
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-chain...der-kit-with-oil-seals-bearing-/221725092196?
> or with the decomp valve if you prefer
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-chain...t-with-oil-seals-bearing-valve-/321706173204?
> ...


Oh, you're dssjms, I've bought a lot of stuff from you, small world..


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## Definitive Dave (Jun 2, 2016)

its funny I meet guys at gtg sometimes and it turns out I already "know" them from a forum or ebay with different screen names


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2016)

Yeah, I use a different screen name on ebay but you might know from my address.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2016)

Yeahk I think the last thing I bought from you was a couple of big washers for 290 stihl clutches. Not sure if you were the one I bought the Homie intake from, had a similar screen name.


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## ssm1699 (Jun 3, 2016)

I think I bought my ring compressor for my 029 from you Dave. Didn't use it though, lol.


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## bluejean (Jun 20, 2016)

Can anyone tell me what is best aftermarket crankshaft for a ms440? Or where to get oem crank cheap?


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 20, 2016)

ssm1699 said:


> I think I bought my ring compressor for my 029 from you Dave. Didn't use it though, lol.


Kinda hard to use a ring compressor on a Stihl clamshell saw. Nice on the others though. Actually, on the MS250 and I guess 025 they have their own compressor built in, just line the rings up on the piston and push it in. On the 029 you have to assist it a little..


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## BroncoRN (Jun 20, 2016)

I know this is a Stihl thread but has anyone bought an AM recoil housing for a 372xp with good results?


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 21, 2016)

I just rebuilt an 024 using AM cylinder kit. Only complaint is that they only included 2 piston circlips in the kit. It takes a minimum of 3 or 4 for me..


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 21, 2016)

BroncoRN said:


> I know this is a Stihl thread but has anyone bought an AM recoil housing for a 372xp with good results?


 I bought 2 clutch covers with chain brake hardware for a 357XP and a 359. These were Aftermarket and didn't cause me any trouble. Never bought a starter though for a Husky, the AM Stihl starters work just fine..


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## ssm1699 (Jun 27, 2016)

Well, I put some time on my saw over the weekend on Saturday. It should be pretty well broke in now. My parents had an Ash tree dropped, since it was dying, due to the Ash Borer Beetle. To save them money, they just had the tree service drop the tree, chip the brush and put the trunk on the ground. The smallest part of the trunk was 36" and going to past 44". My first couple of cuts in the trunk, I ran a tank of gas on each cut. I had the saw running pig rich for the break in. After that, I leaned it out by like a 1/16th of a turn on each jet and I was getting 2 cookies cut to a tank. I could definitely tell that it was breaking in and gaining power. It was definitely having no problems pulling the 20" 3/8 chisel chain through that big ash tree, doing the full bar. Never had a problem with oiling either. I am very pleased with the upgrade I did to my saw. I figure that each cookie that I was cutting off the trunk was probably pushing 120+ lbs. The cookies were each about 6" thick. I probably put 6 or 7 tanks of gas through the saw.


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## rd35 (Jun 27, 2016)

ssm1699 said:


> The cookies were each about 6" thick.


Now that's some mighty short firewood! Bet it was easy to split though!!!


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 27, 2016)

Probably just hit it with a hammer.


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## ssm1699 (Jun 27, 2016)

Fresh, green ash at 36"+ in diameter, at that thickness, is all I wanted to do to lift it. I was cutting them that thin to make them moveable. The parents just wanted the wood out of the yard. When I have a chance, I will post pics.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 28, 2016)

I was just kidding, I've had firewood here in all shapes and sizes, mostly around 18 to 20 inches if possible, but I have some chunks not over 6".


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## ssm1699 (Jun 28, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I was just kidding, I've had firewood here in all shapes and sizes, mostly around 18 to 20 inches if possible, but I have some chunks not over 6".



I know. This just one pic of what I was cutting on. Sorry about my daughters rear end in the pic. Both kids were running around while dad and I were taking a break. 92 degrees with 65% humidity, was kicking our butts that day.


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## ssm1699 (Jun 28, 2016)

Pic of my son standing on the stump.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 28, 2016)

A log splitter sure comes in handy on jobs like yours..


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## ssm1699 (Jun 29, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> A log splitter sure comes in handy on jobs like yours..



Yes it does. Have to own one first though, lol. I haven't had a need to own one because I don't have a wood burner and any time I burn wood, it is either in a fire pit or a big burn pile at my in laws.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 29, 2016)

I bought a new one about 3 years ago and although I've used it a few times I doubt I'll ever get my money's worth out of it..


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## ssm1699 (Jun 29, 2016)

The cheapest gas powered splitter in this area is about $700 and it is only a 13ton splitter. Definitely not something I would spend that kind of money on. I could probably build something a lot better for less. I have a 12hp Kohler that I have been slowly rebuilding, since it was pulled from an old John Deere 112, that could probably be used to power it.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 29, 2016)

I wish I'd spent $700 on my splitter. It was more like $1000 after the sales tax people got done with me.. I keep it in good clean condition in case I need to sell it though. I think mine is around 20 ton.


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## ssm1699 (Jun 29, 2016)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I wish I'd spent $700 on my splitter. It was more like $1000 after the sales tax people got done with me.. I keep it in good clean condition in case I need to sell it though. I think mine is around 20 ton.



The cheapest 22 ton I found locally was at Menards for $800. Regularly, it is about $900.

http://www.menards.com/main/outdoor...448039155-c-10115.htm?tid=-110933995440154118


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 29, 2016)

Bought mine at Tractor Supply, on sale for nine something+7% sales tax. It was normally something like $1099. I will say one thing about it, it has been very dependable and easy starting always. It has a Briggs and Stratton engine, I forget what hp but I think it's around 7.


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## bluejean (Nov 27, 2016)

Has anyone have any results on a AM crankshaft?


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## bluejean (Nov 27, 2016)

Trx250r180 said:


> i have had an aftermarket crank in my milling 660 over a year now with no issues ,also a meteor 460 jug and piston on a 440 with no issues


What AM crankshaft did you use?


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## bluejean (Jan 8, 2017)

Trx250r180 said:


> i have had an aftermarket crank in my milling 660 over a year now with no issues ,also a meteor 460 jug and piston on a 440 with no issues


Who made the crankshaft? I'm looking for a good am one for my stihl 440. There's are a lot of different names and prices.


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## Jasonrkba (Jan 9, 2017)

Bought an entire engine replacement on Amazon for my 025. Chinese stuff. Actually upgraded to a 42.5. runs good. Brand name was Kosin.


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## Trx250r180 (Jan 9, 2017)

Raisman platt


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## roccus (Jan 9, 2017)

I tried an after market fuel line for an MS260 it is not as pliable as OEM also it seems to be a bit longer so when you bend it to hook it to the carb it kinks this can and will limit the fuel going into the carb, the chineese oil line and impulse lines seem ok... I also used an after market clutch, air filter, and coil on the saw they seem to working well with no problems or issues and fit is good

I put a NWP top end kit on the 260 I have heard the meteor kits for the 260 are not that great with some sort of porting problem the NWP looks like decent machining it is chrome lined and it seems to be working real well I also got an NWP gasket/seal set I did not split the case so did not use that gasket but the seals, jug base gasket, and muffler gasket all fit good


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 11, 2017)

Waiting for crank seals for my 390 build so I called the local Stihl dealer to see if he had them and how much. He has them and they're only $36 for the pair. I think I'll wait on my AM order..


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Jan 19, 2017)

roccus said:


> I tried an after market fuel line for an MS260 it is not as pliable as OEM also it seems to be a bit longer so when you bend it to hook it to the carb it kinks this can and will limit the fuel going into the carb, the chineese oil line and impulse lines seem ok... I also used an after market clutch, air filter, and coil on the saw they seem to working well with no problems or issues and fit is good
> 
> I put a NWP top end kit on the 260 I have heard the meteor kits for the 260 are not that great with some sort of porting problem the NWP looks like decent machining it is chrome lined and it seems to be working real well I also got an NWP gasket/seal set I did not split the case so did not use that gasket but the seals, jug base gasket, and muffler gasket all fit good



The aftermarket fuel lines are a no go. I tried several -- they were way too soft, and too many other complaints against them as well. It just does not make sense to take a chance on scoring up a costly saw over a few bucks.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 19, 2017)

I bought some AM fuel lines and tried one on my 029, didn't work so I've got some sitting in a can, maybe use the grommets out of them.


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## brandonstc6 (Apr 19, 2017)

I saw a tecomec gasket for a 036 on eBay. Has anyone used one of these? Are the included seals a quality seal? It says made in Italy on the package? 
Thanks 


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## a. palmer jr. (Apr 19, 2017)

The straight fuel lines such as on an 028 or an older 026 would probably be okay in the aftermarket even if only for a while. Where the 029 fuel hose failed was where the bend next to the carb is it kinked and blocked off the fuel.


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## brandonstc6 (Apr 19, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> The straight fuel lines such as on an 028 or an older 026 would probably be okay in the aftermarket even if only for a while. Where the 029 fuel hose failed was where the bend next to the carb is it kinked and blocked off the fuel.



I've run into this problem as well on a ms260. I use lots of aftermarket lines on other saws.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## a. palmer jr. (Apr 19, 2017)

I've use some aftermarket fuel lines on 029 saws but not the Chinese ebay ones. I think it's Oregon that makes a pretty good line, cheaper than OEM.


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## Brushwacker (May 1, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> The straight fuel lines such as on an 028 or an older 026 would probably be okay in the aftermarket even if only for a while. Where the 029 fuel hose failed was where the bend next to the carb is it kinked and blocked off the fuel.


I tried 3 or so of 10 bought for 026's, all that I tried swelled at the pick up end and the pick ups fell off. The best I remember was 1 tank of fuel before failing.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 1, 2017)

I'm wondering on these Stihl saws if you can't find a reliable aftermarket line and don't want to pay for OEM why not just cut the grommet out of the middle of the fuel line and run the Tygon line through it. You'd probably have to use a different filter but that's no big deal.


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## BuckthornBonnie (May 28, 2017)

Different fuel line failure---
036 line... 3yrs at my cabin as an emergency saw. It split right at the fuel filter. We noticed it after it had a high idle a few weeks ago. 
It did more sitting in fuel (ethanol free) than most saws but still--- it should not have split. 
So... don't use em.


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## BuckthornBonnie (May 28, 2017)

This was really an experiment for me. I knew that it'd probably fail but now I have a timeline on the failure (3yrs). The saw maybe gets two tanks a year ran thru it.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 28, 2017)

BuckthornBonnie said:


> Different fuel line failure---
> 036 line... 3yrs at my cabin as an emergency saw. It split right at the fuel filter. We noticed it after it had a high idle a few weeks ago.
> It did more sitting in fuel (ethanol free) than most saws but still--- it should not have split.
> So... don't use em.


 I use them occasionally but I don't cut wood that often anymore and I do have about 35 chainsaws...
Normally none of mine sit with fuel in them...


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## brandonstc6 (May 28, 2017)

I am having a stihl 044 getting send back because starter paw on the made in China pull start failed. I have been having bad luck with Chinese parts lately. Including a bearing with a too small seal pocket on an 028.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## a. palmer jr. (May 28, 2017)

I've had a little trouble with OEM parts lately but it could possibly be because the parts are 40 years old.


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## BuckthornBonnie (May 29, 2017)

brandonstc6 said:


> I am having a stihl 044 getting send back because starter paw on the made in China pull start failed. I have been having bad luck with Chinese parts lately. Including a bearing with a too small seal pocket on an 028.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm trying one of those recoils as well. I'll report back after a while.


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## a. palmer jr. (May 29, 2017)

If your 044 doesn't have a de-comp I would imagine you will have starter problems and shoulder problems as well. I used to own one of those and got rid of it rather quickly because of the kick back. I have an aftermarket recoil on my MS250 and it's very well up to the task. I have one also on a 390 and no problems there either.


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## brandonstc6 (May 29, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> If your 044 doesn't have a de-comp I would imagine you will have starter problems and shoulder problems as well. I used to own one of those and got rid of it rather quickly because of the kick back. I have an aftermarket recoil on my MS250 and it's very well up to the task. I have one also on a 390 and no problems there either.



It does have a de-comp. everything worked great before I shipped it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## a. palmer jr. (May 29, 2017)

I would have kept mine if it had a de-comp but I had other saws and didn't want to tear that one down to install one. I think I remember putting some of those plastic pawls in it.


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## Stihlofadeal64 (Jun 18, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> If your 044 doesn't have a de-comp I would imagine you will have starter problems and shoulder problems as well. I used to own one of those and got rid of it rather quickly because of the kick back. I have an aftermarket recoil on my MS250 and it's very well up to the task. I have one also on a 390 and no problems there either.



Take the aftermarket rewind cover, replace the pawls with OEM and install a Elasto Start rope kit. I believe you will find everything will be OK then.


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 18, 2017)

I think I still have one or two of the Elasto Start ropes and handles, finding them will be another thing.


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## BuckthornBonnie (Aug 13, 2017)

Stihlofadeal64 said:


> Take the aftermarket rewind cover, replace the pawls with OEM and install a Elasto Start rope kit. I believe you will find everything will be OK then.


The first 460 recoil is still alive. Naturally I tried a second for a 440/-- failed within a tank. 

The pawls, plastic pulley, washer, spring clip, and spring are all shot. What failed first? The saw was running ok, tried to restart and just pulled the string with no tension. 
The pulley does have wear marks. The spring was bent over on itself in the housing. The flywheel ate part if the pulley and the spring steel clip was cut in two.


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## a. palmer jr. (Aug 13, 2017)

Kinda on or off the subject but it appears that possibly our supplier of cheap aftermarket parts may no longer be much of a trading partner if they don't cooperate with our government on matters of our national security (and theirs.)


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## diesel&coffee (Nov 28, 2017)

Any comments on after market MS660 crankcase found on HLSUPPY and EBAY


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## MustangMike (Nov 28, 2017)

diesel&coffee said:


> Any comments on after market MS660 crankcase found on HLSUPPY and EBAY



IMO, the bottom ends fared really well. While there were occasional problems with other bearings, the only one that regularly had a problem is the Piston Pin bearing.


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 28, 2017)

MustangMike said:


> IMO, the bottom ends fared really well. While there were occasional problems with other bearings, the only one that regularly had a problem is the Piston Pin bearing.


 I guess a guy could just use a Stihl 660 bearing instead.


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## diesel&coffee (Nov 28, 2017)

MustangMike said:


> IMO, the bottom ends fared really well. While there were occasional problems with other bearings, the only one that regularly had a problem is the Piston Pin bearing.



Thanks.. Which brings a REAL WONDERING QUESTION on bearings in general.. Anyone have issues with using a quality bearing like

NACHI JAPANESE bearing
FAG or other name brand bearings ??

Have to ask


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## diesel&coffee (Nov 28, 2017)

Wow looks like a NACHI 6403 C3 has limiting RPM may be low.. Interesting I haven't really had to think about RPMS until chainsaws lol

INSERT: GREASE LIMITATION 11,000ish .. Interesting


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## brandonstc6 (Nov 28, 2017)

HL supply has Tecomec 036 piston kits for $ 6.33. I bought 3. The last ones I got looked great. Has anyone used any of these? 


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## a. palmer jr. (Nov 28, 2017)

Some of the Stihl saws used plastic retainers in their bearings, I didn't care much for those and replaced them with metal ones.


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## Mad Professor (Nov 29, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Some of the Stihl saws used plastic retainers in their bearings, I didn't care much for those and replaced them with metal ones.



There is a reason for plastic. It's a certain type that has thermal expansion properties that keep the bearings spaced properly. And if the cage comes apart it's softer than aluminum or steel.

This was learned from an old Lakeside53 post from about 2007? I had faith in what Andy told us, he knew more than most of us here, so go from there.......


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## Mad Professor (Nov 29, 2017)

brandonstc6 said:


> HL supply has Tecomec 036 piston kits for $ 6.33. I bought 3. The last ones I got looked great. Has anyone used any of these?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Tecomec used to be OEM quality and made in Italy. THeir website still says made in Italy but they are Chi-Com now.

This is from the former USA distributor which was Tilton. He said buy up NOS Italian Tecomec before it dries up.

Let us know how the Chinese Tecomec is now?


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## brandonstc6 (Nov 29, 2017)

Mad Professor said:


> Tecomec used to be OEM quality and made in Italy. THeir website still says made in Italy but they are Chi-Com now.
> 
> This is from the former USA distributor which was Tilton. He said buy up NOS Italian Tecomec before it dries up.
> 
> Let us know how the Chinese Tecomec is now?



I will post up some pictures. I have ordered some of their newer pistons in the past and was happy. 
Stihl 028 super
Stihl MS361 
Stihl 036


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mad Professor (Nov 29, 2017)

brandonstc6 said:


> I will post up some pictures. I have ordered some of their newer pistons in the past and was happy.
> Stihl 028 super
> Stihl MS361
> Stihl 036
> ...




Please do. The USA distributor I actually talked with on the phone. He said Li'll Red Barn might still have some NOS Italian Tecomec.

I've used the Italian stuff and it is /was OEM quality. No work needed at all on cylinders, perfect chamfers on ports, clean non-porous castings, plating perfect, no fitmet issues.


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## morbius18 (Dec 30, 2017)

I rebuilt a 029 super with a 49mm Farmertec P&C.

Works great, pics after break in.


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## brandonstc6 (Dec 30, 2017)

Mad Professor said:


> Please do. The USA distributor I actually talked with on the phone. He said Li'll Red Barn might still have some NOS Italian Tecomec.
> 
> I've used the Italian stuff and it is /was OEM quality. No work needed at all on cylinders, perfect chamfers on ports, clean non-porous castings, plating perfect, no fitmet issues.




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## morbius18 (Dec 30, 2017)

Did two 026s with P&C and seals. Kept a pro one sold the other. Both work and run strong:


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## morbius18 (Dec 30, 2017)

Also did a scored MS250 P&C and seals. Running strong by a local firewood cutter:


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## MustangMike (Dec 31, 2017)

My understanding is they are very good quality, but have ceased production. Remaining inventory is all that is left.


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## BuckthornBonnie (Aug 3, 2018)

Beware the AM ms660 mufflers with baffles. The top baffle plate on one of mine loosened up and fell off. It could have (in theory) gotten into the exhaust port and ruined the top end. I heard it rattling around while gasing up. Lasted 2 years, baffle wasn’t messed with other than 3/8” hole drilled well below the tack welds holding this piece in.


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## Tinman204 (Aug 7, 2018)

Currently I have an ms260 with a hutzle piston and rings. Have about 40 tanks through it and it's a strong runner.

Ordered a hutzle piston and cylinder for another 260 I'm building here and the piston looks good but the cylinder will need a lot of port work to make any power I recon. Exhaust port is way smaller then an OEM. Plating looks ok and the castings arent bad. The chamfers on both intake and exhaust ports are almost not there. 

I'll post a thread once that one is together and I'll ring its neck cutting for a awhile before I give it thumbs up or down......


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## BuckthornBonnie (Jun 12, 2020)

Updating-

Bad—I had an aftermarket 1127 impulse line fail in a ms290. Lasted three years of low use by a buddy... saw had other issues but noticed an idle and racing issue.
* Ethanol free gas used for all saws discussed here. 

This caused me to go through all my saws that I was trying those lines on. I had two 064s with ‘em— both ran fine and the lines looked ok (probably 2015/16 builds). I’m still replacing them since I consider this experiment concluded; aftermarket fuel AND impulse lines are no good for long term use despite using proper fuel. Fuel lines were a previous conclusion and should be widely known at this point. 

While into an 064 that gets low-moderate use bucking tree service logs (28” bar), I noticed three shot AVs. All were aftermarket. The main culprit (I think) was the two-holed tank buffer. That had the rubber shear and may have jeopardized the others. This is my SECOND failure on those style AVs so I am done with that experiment. Some AVs are ok, but may tear before oem. 

Good- those 2013 white AM air filters with the foam gasket were legitimate. They seal well and last like oem. I regret not buying more. 
The plastic tanks and cylinder covers are holding up well. 
Echo-style tank vents are great
So far so good on all seals, but OEM is a safer bet. 
Clutches for 1125/1128/1122 with oem springs are holding up well to firewood use. 
Rims are ok if they’re round. 
No failures with Meteor pistons...again, low-moderate use with some combo of felling, limbing, bucking, and noodling. 
That damn 2012-2013 Hyway 036 kit is still alive lol.


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## BuckthornBonnie (Jul 13, 2020)

Update- all aftermarket AV buffers are no good for prolonged use. 1122/1125 just do not last. 
OEM only on these and most (all?) rubber parts.


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## Vintage Engine Repairs (Jul 14, 2020)

BuckthornBonnie said:


> Updating-
> 
> Bad—I had an aftermarket 1127 impulse line fail in a ms290. Lasted three years of low use by a buddy... saw had other issues but noticed an idle and racing issue.
> * Ethanol free gas used for all saws discussed here.
> ...


When you say AM, I’m guessing they are Chinese clone parts? Yeah, don’t touch them with a barge pole.


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## BuckthornBonnie (Jul 14, 2020)

Yes, but also sold under aftermarket “name” brands. I’m shocked that more people haven’t had failures. I know plenty of other guys tried them when I did back in 2013 or so. 

Clone saws that are actually working should be torn down and have all the aftermarket buffers removed. A catastrophic failure of AV could kill a saw.


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