# stump grinding- embedded fence



## stump grinder (Jun 23, 2003)

I wonder if anyone has dealt with this situation. A customer is replacing a chain link fence with a new one. Over the years some trees have grown along the fence line. Several of the trees have grown into the fencing. So this is a problem for my grinder. Does anyone have a solution for getting through this stuff. It would be difficult to cut below the fence as it is going below grade and just for fun, there is a cement curb up close to the fence.I am doing another job for this gentleman so I would like to try and see if there is anything I can do for him here even though this is not what I would consider a "good" job.

Dean Chartier


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## treeman82 (Jun 23, 2003)

How big are the stumps? I would just cut the fencing as close as you possibly can to the stumps and then just grind right through the whole stump. Might have to sharpen your teeth afterwards, but just charge for it.


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## kf_tree (Jun 23, 2003)

use bolt cutters to get as much fence away as possible. to make a flush cut just use a cruddy chain on a big saw and blow through the fence, then just grind away.


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## stump grinder (Jun 24, 2003)

Won't my grinder get hung up in that fencing when I get to it? Or will it cut through it? Has anyone actually cut through fencing with a chainsaw? Sounds like it could end in disaster. But i am open to trying ift if amyone has actually done it and it works.

Dean


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jun 24, 2003)

If you can get low below grade as you do the outside od the stump, you can undermine the connected part, using small movements and trying to get only a small portion of the head,

A buddy of mine who does a lot of stumps says that the biggest mistake in somehing like this is engaging too much of the head with the stump.


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## kf_tree (Jun 24, 2003)

stump grinder...
i used to work in brooklyn NY, and we came across this all the time. alot of times we had to cut through it just to get the wood out of the yard (to lighten it up). just cut as much of the wood as possble before you go after the fence. alot of the tree's in brooklyn had more hardware in them than home depot clothes pulley, hose reals, nails etc, so cutting through some chain link is no big deal. a 394 or 3120 will blow right through it, but the chain will be trashed. some wedges and pry bars help.

i only had a 24hp stumper and it would eat the fence right up.


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## Stumper (Jun 25, 2003)

I've done that sort of job many times. As Kenny and others have posted-just cut the fence away at the stump and grind it. Loose chainlink is an awful mess wound up in a grinder's wheel but the stuff that is grown in will just get chopped up. Wear chaps and a face shield (eye and ear protection are ALWAYS in place -right?). Personally I hate trashing a chain so I prefer JPS's method if the fence is high in the stump-cut away all the wood that you can then grind that wire filled slab loose. Steel posts are teeth killers, chainlink fencing, while a hard wire, is not too damaging. Figure on dulling a set of teeth though and charge accordingly.


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## Greg (Jun 25, 2003)

Not grinder related --
How do you guys deal with small 3-6" trees that have grown through chain link fences. It is easy to cut them on each side but then you are left with a block of wood hanging on the fence. I have used a drill to break them up, any easier methods?
Greg


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## Stumper (Jun 25, 2003)

Yeah, leave the chunk of wood in the fence!


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## stump grinder (Jun 25, 2003)

Stumper- I always wear my PPE. I do however need to get some chaps. Sounds like this might work. I think I will get with the customer and try it out on one of the half dozen before I agree to do the whole job. I have other work to do there anyways. 

Dean


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## dbeck (Jun 25, 2003)

I use dto do underground utility construction for my summer job during college(natura gas , electric, tlephone, catv, etc) We used trenchers to do a lot of the ground digging. If you haven't seen them, they look like a great big earth chainsaw and the teeth are similar to stumper teeth. Carbide tips, etc. I have seen those trenchers go through blacktop, concrete, abandoned steel gas pipe, rock, shale, you get the picture. While a stupm grinder is not designed for the same type a treatment, I think your machine can handle some chain link in a stump.
jus trying to give you some confidence. Do not for get to compensate in pricing for teeth wear!


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## Yellowdog (Jul 6, 2003)

Depending upon the size of the stump you could consider using a tree shear. While it may be unconvential to most guys who work with saws, I often work with tree guys and take care of little problems like this. If nothing else, and the stump is huge, the shear will take a huge bite out of it leaving a lot less for hand work, etc. I can personally use a shear right up to and curbs, etc. and do a whole lot of fence line clearing. It just takes a little time to be gentle but it can certainly be helpful when you have wire and such in the way.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jul 6, 2003)

How much does it caost to get an excavator with a shear onto a property?


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## Yellowdog (Jul 6, 2003)

I was thinking excavator. I was thinking skidsteer. A skidsteer with a shear can cut a 24" hardwood in one bite. Multiple bites would be needed for a larger tree. I use a 14" shear myself but take multiple bites for larger stumps. I routinely cut stumps I encounter while shearing juniper trees in my neck of the woods. 

For a skidsteer, you would be looking at about $50-65 hr. I charge closer to the latter but there are guys who charge as little as $30 hr. but it is my opinion that you get what you pay for and $30 an hour can't hardly pay for a machine with lots of hydraulic muscle..


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jul 6, 2003)

10-4 on that. I cannot understand how the lowballers live. I walked from a big silvermaple bid with a verbal 1300 when they told me someone said like 750 with the stump. I would need 2 trucks and askidder to clean it out in a day with 3 guys Day and a half with one truck and no skidder.

The only shears I've seen are the big ones that land clearing operations use around here on excavators. Cut the roots, grab the but, wiggles it and load the peices into a dump...


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## Yellowdog (Jul 8, 2003)

You would probably be amazed what is out there for skid steers.

I used to operate a JD 450 loader dozer and a D5M and miscellaneous backhoes and I am amazed at what a big Bobcat can do with the right person in the cab. You should have seen the stumps I removed today. Easily 30" dead liveoak. My loader will lift about 3400 lbs up into the air. It is rated at 3000 lbs to 10.5 feet and I couldn't lift the stump ball after I dug it out. I did 7 of them today in just a couple of hours. I could have literally pieced the stumps out with a shear but it would have taken a long time but the shears will do it, bite by bite.


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## kf_tree (Jul 8, 2003)

yellow dog
have you ever seen the stump grinder attachment for a bobcat in use? i always wondered if they were worth it. it just seems alot more practical than a one purpose machine like a stump grinder.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Jul 8, 2003)

I've been told that if you done have high flow hydraulics the skidder attachments are slow compared to a dedicated unit.

That said, if you fot the skidder and dont do stumps all the time, sounds like a good investment.


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## Greg (Jul 9, 2003)

A buddy of mine has a grinder he uses on his cat (873 I think), and it eats up those stumps. He does have High Flow. I watched him take a 36" live oak about 8 inches below ground in about 20 mins. One of the nice things is that you can use the wheel to push aside the chips if you need to clear around the hole. He was done and never got out of his seat.
Greg


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## Yellowdog (Jul 9, 2003)

I've only seen the bobcat stump grinder video.

It used to be that if you had standard flow hydraulics, "some" of the attachments were slow but now most of the bigger machines have at least 20 gpm and high flow of between 31 and 40 for various makes of skid steers.


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