# Let's Start a Muff Mod Thread



## Ironworker (Jan 19, 2014)

Well I've been home for a few weeks recovering from surgery with not much to do so in my boredom I bought and sold a couple of saws, one modded and one stock. I have also been looking for stuff especially pics of muff mods cause that's probably the first thing I'm gonna do to my stock 346, but they are very hard to find on the site now at least for me and I've also noticed a couple of other guys looking for info on muff mods. So let's see if we can get an updated thread going on MM's.


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## sachsmo (Jan 19, 2014)

Homelite410 does some nice work.

I have one that is pretty off the wall.

No fear, I can put it back to the stock louvers in a wag of a lambs tail!







QUACK QUACK!


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## jeremyc (Jan 19, 2014)

Stihl 066 diy dual port.


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## sachsmo (Jan 19, 2014)

That one you are contemplating have a cat muff?


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## Ironworker (Jan 19, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> That one you are contemplating have a cat muff?


I have no idea, haven't received it yet.


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## sachsmo (Jan 19, 2014)

No matter.

A free flowing muffler is the best bang for the buck saw mod you can do to that saw cat or not.

Even the non cat is very restrictive, but the cat waffer has to go, it gives off way too much heat.


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## jackjcc (Jan 19, 2014)

I opened up a crimped muffler on my 250 and I never took any pics. That was a mistake. 

If you get one with a cat then the best way to open it up is to uncrimp it. I wish all saws had bolt together mufflers, but I'm pretty sure re EPA had something to do with them going away. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sachsmo (Jan 19, 2014)

I tried that on a cat muff from a 359, 

The metal is so thin I gooned it up pretty good.

If I did another I would just split it with a cutoff wheel and gut it and weld it back together (Braze)


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## sachsmo (Jan 19, 2014)

silver wire and the good (black) flux will stick nearly anything (except mag and aluminum)


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## Chris-PA (Jan 19, 2014)

There are other ways to get inside some of these mufflers beyond opening the crimp. You can cut a hole, use a drill and a die grinder to clean out internal baffles and then close it with a cover panel:



Permatex Ultra Copper works well for sealing the cover. I cut the cover panels from some SS sheet from an old microwave cover I saved.


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## sachsmo (Jan 19, 2014)

Getting that cat 'waffer' out of the husky muffs requires splitting them.

It comes out like a big saltine cracker, leaving them in and bypassing with an exrta port behind the 'waffer' would still light it off and create too much heat.

I do like the idea of the 'access panel' though.


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## sachsmo (Jan 19, 2014)

Brass to steel?

Copper to steel?

Yup!


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## Chris-PA (Jan 19, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> Getting that cat 'waffer' out of the husky muffs requires splitting them.
> 
> It comes out like a big saltine cracker, leaving them in and bypassing with an exrta port behind the 'waffer' would still light it off and create too much heat.
> 
> I do like the idea of the 'access panel' though.


Yeah that could be a problem. And you are right, I tried a total bypass of the cat in the Earthquake muffler but that cat still got smokin' hot.


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## jughead500 (Jan 19, 2014)

On the mufflers like chris-pa posted.those are the redmax gz4000 style mufflers.the ryobi mufflers exactly the same and can be had for $6 or less.I took my original muffler of and ordered the cheap chinese muffler to mod.if I messed up wasnt too bad of a mistake.


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## z71mike (Jan 20, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> View attachment 328700


I wanna hear that thing run. Looks crazy!


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## jjw (Jan 20, 2014)

Here's one on a 350 that woke it right up.




Here's one on a 266 that woke the neighbors right up.


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## blsnelling (Jan 20, 2014)

That last one looks like a Poulan 5200.


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## sachsmo (Jan 20, 2014)

z71mike said:


> I wanna hear that thing run. Looks crazy!




No.


this is the one that you wanna hear run.

Old 152 jungle muffler I split and slayed out the "elephant trunk',

It be my all time favorite!


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## z71mike (Jan 20, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> No.
> 
> 
> this is the one that you wanna hear run.
> ...


Video!


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## half_full (Jan 20, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> I tried that on a cat muff from a 359,
> 
> The metal is so thin I gooned it up pretty good.
> 
> If I did another I would just split it with a cutoff wheel and gut it and weld it back together (Braze)


I've done that to a 353 muffler. It was alot of work. I know some saws have a non-cat muffler available but I'd cut another just because I like to tinker.


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## Jeff Lary (Jan 20, 2014)

I just added a deflector to a saw that in the past had melted the brake handle. While there any way I added 2, 1/4'' holes in the front. I do have a question as a rule of thumb how much of an opening can you add to a muffler in relation to the exhaust port size? To me it looks like some have an added opening that must be close to the port size.


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## Ironworker (Jan 20, 2014)

Jeff Lary said:


> I just added a deflector to a saw that in the past had melted the brake handle. While there any way I added 2, 1/4'' holes in the front. I do have a question as a rule of thumb how much of an opening can you add to a muffler in relation to the exhaust port size? To me it looks like some have an added opening that must be close to the port size.


You hear all kinds of stuff on that, I like to keep it slightly smaller than the exhaust port.


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## Jeff Lary (Jan 20, 2014)

yup ok well I am sure more opinions will come.


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## z71mike (Jan 20, 2014)

If memory serves me correctly, go 80% of the size of the exhaust port on the block.


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## mesupra (Jan 20, 2014)

At some point I can across a thread where some said to used spaghetti to measure the area of the exhaust port, I thought it was pretty neat and did so on my 346.


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## Chris-PA (Jan 20, 2014)

mesupra said:


> At some point I can across a thread where some said to used spaghetti to measure the area of the exhaust port, I thought it was pretty neat and did so on my 346.


Canned sauce or homemade?


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## Homelite410 (Jan 20, 2014)

My 350




Its a 1" pipe and it runs great! Lil raspy tho..........


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## Stihl n Wood (Jan 20, 2014)

Here's a 460 muff I recently did. Sounds nice!!


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## Jeff Lary (Jan 21, 2014)

yea those look really good, you gotta like the pasta caliper idea.


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## gr8mac (Jan 21, 2014)

I just did a muffler mod today on my 066. Sorry I didn't think to take any pics. I opened up the factory side hole and added a dual port cover. Instead of removing the baffle, I drilled three big holes down the front surface of the baffle. I didn't get a chance to run it much, I only started it for a few. Seems to have more attitude now.


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## sachsmo (Jan 22, 2014)

z71mike said:


> Video!




Perhaps when I get 2 more SD six cubers?

I would like to do an 8 cylinder like Uncle Lee did with his seven cubers.

Ain't much of one to post videos (never have did one)

If the sound from 8 of those bad boyz don't break sumthin' my ugly mug would fo' sure!


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## sachsmo (Jan 22, 2014)

359

Hey we all gotta start somewhere eh?

my first and no doubt the best(performance wise)


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## blsnelling (Jan 22, 2014)

My advice is to not get caught up in a numbers game. Just open it up and let it breathe. Use a little common sense and it'll be fine.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 22, 2014)

I'm gonna mod my 550xp muffler this weekend but im not gonna cut the baffle inside it gets too loud.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## blsnelling (Jan 22, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> I'm gonna mod my 550xp muffler this weekend but im not gonna cut the baffle inside it gets too loud.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Autotune Carb


I would agree with that.


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## coxy74 (Jan 22, 2014)

z71mike said:


> If memory serves me correctly, go 80% of the size of the exhaust port on the block.



Is that 80% total together with the original exhaust port, or 80% of the exhaust port, plus the original exhaust port?? If that makes sense?? 

Does anyone have any photos of a MM off a 562XP?

Thanks


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## z71mike (Jan 22, 2014)

Together with the original.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 22, 2014)

No pics but i just cut out everything under the deflector, im gonna do the same on the 550


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## sachsmo (Jan 22, 2014)

Is there really anything as too loud?

Only thing I can think of is two Nitro Funny cars getting it all the way!
Dem things will shake your eyeballs.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 22, 2014)

Yup too loud gets annoying when you gotta run it all day 5-6 days a week. Especially in the city in between houses and such it bounces and echos all over.


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## sachsmo (Jan 22, 2014)

I get ya.

Watch them insurance folks.


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## KenJax Tree (Jan 22, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> I get ya.
> 
> Watch them insurance folks.



Yeah them too


Sent from my Autotune Carb


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## Uldis (Jan 22, 2014)

I have a question - I ordered a "modded muffler" from Husqvarna for 576XP ("modified"=544 03 02-02; standard=544 03 02-01), but the only difference I see, is that modded one has baffle (inner plate) removed. The exhaust hole looks to be the same size as the one on standard muffler. So question: does only removing the baffle increase power?


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## Ironworker (Jan 30, 2014)

I bumped this up, maybe we can get some more pics, that recent shark gill one was pretty good maybe you can post it here.


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## redfin (Jan 30, 2014)

mesupra said:


> At some point I can across a thread where some said to used spaghetti to measure the area of the exhaust port, I thought it was pretty neat and did so on my 346.



I measured all my saws exhaust port opening just for reference. What works really well is pull piston up to block port spray with wd40 and squish playdough into form the shape.

Pull it out and set it on a piece of paper and you have the excact shape left from the oil staining the paper. I can assure you with the oil on the cylinder and piston none of the playdough is left behind.


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## HittinSteel (Jan 30, 2014)

346XPG


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## Venomvpr900 (Jan 30, 2014)

The gills !!

First set




Second set 




On the saw 




Here's the link to the how to.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/muffler-gills.251493/


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## sachsmo (Jan 31, 2014)

Dunno 'bout them 'gills.

I do know a free flowing 359 just flat out gets it!


Chit , when I joined here the 359 was the bang fer your buck champ.

But you had to open 'em up a bit, guess i didn't need to go any further eh?


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## HittinSteel (Jan 31, 2014)

Dang Mo, bet that sounds good


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## Homelite410 (Jan 31, 2014)

Putting this on a 670.


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## sachsmo (Feb 1, 2014)

HittinSteel said:


> Dang Mo, bet that sounds good



If the cackle from that little orange mo-fo don't give a grown man wood,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,he must be dead?

That was me first attempt and yes she will sit and idle all day.

It had a screen but it blew out one day bucking a big Sycamore, I never replaced it.

 Eight years, and she runs like a top, she goes nearly every time I go cuttin'.


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## bootboy (Feb 1, 2014)

My 460


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## sachsmo (Feb 1, 2014)

A straight line is the shortest route eh?


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## Lutty440 (Feb 9, 2014)

bump


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## Heilman181 (Feb 9, 2014)

Is it even worth integrating a screen into the new exhaust muffler ports?


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## bootboy (Feb 10, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> A straight line is the shortest route eh?




Actually, the tubes extend far enough into the muffler that the initial exhaust impulse clears the top of them and hits the front of the muffler cover. My thought when deciding how long and how low to make the tubes was to let the exhaust still produce a little pressure inside the muffler before it found its way out. It's not as loud as you'd think either. I got som additional RPMs with this mod and retuned accordingly. I won't make up many figures but it's noticeably more grunty than stock. How do I know? It out cuts the 3 stock 460's of guys I cut with.


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## redfin (Feb 10, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Is it even worth integrating a screen into the new exhaust muffler ports?


 
I have kept all the screens in every saw muffler i have opened. I more worried about crap getting into the muffler.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 10, 2014)

redfin said:


> I have kept all the screens in every saw muffler i have opened. I more worried about crap getting into the muffler.



Makes perfect sense!

Does anyone know where one can purchase small sections of the screen that is typically used?


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## Chris-PA (Feb 10, 2014)

A screen will typically reduce the effective size of the opening it is stretched across by around 40%. I really don't like the removable screen design of most saws I see, including most "pro" saws, where the screen is just perched across the opening. Certainly it is convenient for cleaning, but also restrictive. The screens that are loosely wrapped around an internal baffle tube have much more surface area accessible and don't restrict much at all.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 10, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> Putting this on a 670.



Homelite, do you leave the OEM muffler opening open too? What size are those pipes?


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## Homelite410 (Feb 10, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Homelite, do you leave the OEM muffler opening open too? What size are those pipes?


That is where factory opening was. Those are 1" od pipes.


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## 1375619cm3 (Feb 10, 2014)

Has anyone muff mod a jonsered 2171. And was there a notice able power differance?


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## Heilman181 (Feb 10, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> That is where factory opening was. Those are 1" od pipes.



Hummmmmm........

Homelite, do you think TWO 1" pipes would be too big on my 359? I was going to do two 5/8" pipes and weld solid the OEM exhaust opening to avoid top cover burn. Maybe I should use 1" instead.

Is this something that is even going to make a performance difference and/or much of a sound difference?


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## adventurebob (Feb 10, 2014)

Ok, so being the OCD skeptic I am, the results of muffler mods all seem to be anecdotal. While I have heard some great sounding mods, the question remains: What's the proof other than the sound that they actually do anything? My experience is from the Motorcycle and Snowmobile worlds. There's a lot of "seat of the pants dynos" but when you actually throw some stuff on a no kidding dyno, there's no gain and in some cases there's even a loss of performance. From what I know about building two stroke exhausts there's a lot of physics and math involved that have been boiled down to things that work and things that don't. Simply drilling a hole or punching fins in the can that exists doesn't seem to follow the published knowledge of gaining power from a two stroke. Someone please explain...


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 10, 2014)

adventurebob said:


> Ok, so being the OCD skeptic I am, the results of muffler mods all seem to be anecdotal. While I have heard some great sounding mods, the question remains: What's the proof other than the sound that they actually do anything? My experience is from the Motorcycle and Snowmobile worlds. There's a lot of "seat of the pants dynos" but when you actually throw some stuff on a no kidding dyno, there's no gain and in some cases there's even a loss of performance. From what I know about building two stroke exhausts there's a lot of physics and math involved that have been boiled down to things that work and things that don't. Simply drilling a hole or punching fins in the can that exists doesn't seem to follow the published knowledge of gaining power from a two stroke. Someone please explain...




Your thinking more of a tuned exhaust, pipe and stinger set up. It takes a lot more smarts to improve a tuned exhaust system, as for a chainsaw set up. It's all about meeting EPA. So what ever they have to do to meet the EPA spec they will and performance always is the one to suffer. I have yet to see a modern saw not benefit from a muffler mod, the new auto tunes really gain from a muffler mod. There are tons of videos out there should real gain results from just a muffler mod.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 10, 2014)

adventurebob said:


> Ok, so being the OCD skeptic I am, the results of muffler mods all seem to be anecdotal. While I have heard some great sounding mods, the question remains: What's the proof other than the sound that they actually do anything? My experience is from the Motorcycle and Snowmobile worlds. There's a lot of "seat of the pants dynos" but when you actually throw some stuff on a no kidding dyno, there's no gain and in some cases there's even a loss of performance. From what I know about building two stroke exhausts there's a lot of physics and math involved that have been boiled down to things that work and things that don't. Simply drilling a hole or punching fins in the can that exists doesn't seem to follow the published knowledge of gaining power from a two stroke. Someone please explain...



A muffler mod ALONE might not do much at all. However, considering the two stroke engine is basically an air pump you are able to move more air in/out which allows you to add more fuel. More air + more fuel = more power. Power gains might only be minimal at 5-10%, but then you get into porting and improving the flow to make the pump work faster and more efficient to see more power gains in the 15+% range.

I don't think there is much math involved until you get into race saws with expansion chambers built into the pipes.


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## adventurebob (Feb 10, 2014)

Again, have watched and enjoy a great mod video. The sound of some are amazing, but what is the objective measure of "real gains?"
I know a lot of people who bolt $500 intakes and $1300 exhausts to their cars and swear up and down that the improvements are awesome. Yet many magazines who look at things objectively throw the same combos on the same cars and get 8-10HP. Yet to listen to the owners, they bolted on 50Hp. In my experience, performance gains on ones own stuff suffers from a self serving bias. Im not saying they do nothing, but man how do you prove it? Don't you want to really, objectively know that its worth the effort? I do.


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## adventurebob (Feb 10, 2014)

I understand the air pump analogy. But a 2 stroke is a pump without a valve train. To make it efficient (ie more power per CC cylinder volume), a method has to be devised to help scavenge the exhaust and pull fresh FA charge into the cylinder. That is historically done through the utilization of exhaust with regard to timing and cylinder volume. The mufflers as they come from the factory work, but with all the mods, not apparently as well they could. But to know what to do, what actually makes it better vs louder shouldn't they be tested? Objectively?


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## Heilman181 (Feb 10, 2014)

adventurebob said:


> Again, have watched and enjoy a great mod video. The sound of some are amazing, but what is the objective measure of "real gains?"



Going from taking 8 seconds to cut through that log down to 5 seconds. Why? Because it is 2014 and we like to push the envelope. For some people, the GPS tells them how to get to a destination and what time they will arrive. To me, the GPS says "this is when you will arrive, do you think you can get there faster sucker?" 



adventurebob said:


> I know a lot of people who bolt $500 intakes and $1300 exhausts to their cars and swear up and down that the improvements are awesome. Yet many magazines who look at things objectively throw the same combos on the same cars and get 8-10HP. Yet to listen to the owners, they bolted on 50Hp. In my experience, performance gains on ones own stuff suffers from a self serving bias. Im not saying they do nothing, but man how do you prove it? Don't you want to really, objectively know that its worth the effort? I do.



Those oftentimes are the people who take them to a racetrack, leave them on the trailer and just like to rev them up. It sure sounds good though.

I used to ride dirt bikes with some "pretty boys" that would ride AROUND mud puddles and slow down for creek crossings while I blazed through everything like a raped ape. However, on the way back to the trucks, they would hit the last mud puddle hard to get the bikes all muddy. Then, they would leave them in the back of the trucks for a few days and drive around town like they actually did something.

Can you tell an 8-10 hp increase in a vehicle? I sure can't, but it makes the ego driven society sure feel better about themselves.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 10, 2014)

adventurebob said:


> I understand the air pump analogy. But a 2 stroke is a pump without a valve train. To make it efficient (ie more power per CC cylinder volume), a method has to be devised to help scavenge the exhaust and pull fresh FA charge into the cylinder. That is historically done through the utilization of exhaust with regard to timing and cylinder volume. The mufflers as they come from the factory work, but with all the mods, not apparently as well they could. But to know what to do, what actually makes it better vs louder shouldn't they be tested? Objectively?



Correct, so the quicker you can get exhaust out of the muffler the quicker you can get fresh air/fuel in. Baffles, CAT materials that result in excessive heat and reduced air flow, etc... to suit EPA requirements are not "performance" minded.

The objective results can be checked with a stop watch. With these minor mods, you are able to run a different rpm range. In most cases, turning 25-40% more rpms. However, higher rpms is not the only or best way to achieve more power.

It all depends on what you are doing with the saw. Just a similar concept of changing the running gear ratios in a vehicle.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 10, 2014)

2253 stock


2253 muffler modded


Get some larger hard wood and the times get further and further apart.


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## Homelite410 (Feb 10, 2014)

1375619cm3 said:


> Has anyone muff mod a jonsered 2171. And was there a notice able power differance?







Here is my 2171.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 10, 2014)

Dicks tree! Sup mike? That's an old picture...!!


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 10, 2014)

My first 550xp muffler, has since move on to a fellow member. The 545, 550, 555, 562 are the same muffler really. The 555-562 are just a scaled up version.


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## RedFir Down (Feb 10, 2014)

adventurebob said:


> Ok, so being the OCD skeptic I am, the results of muffler mods all seem to be anecdotal. While I have heard some great sounding mods, the question remains: What's the proof other than the sound that they actually do anything? My experience is from the Motorcycle and Snowmobile worlds. There's a lot of "seat of the pants dynos" but when you actually throw some stuff on a no kidding dyno, there's no gain and in some cases there's even a loss of performance. From what I know about building two stroke exhausts there's a lot of physics and math involved that have been boiled down to things that work and things that don't. Simply drilling a hole or punching fins in the can that exists doesn't seem to follow the published knowledge of gaining power from a two stroke. Someone please explain...


One thing I would suggest is for you to buy a inexpensive after market muffler and do some experimenting with muffler mods. That way you can see for yourself.


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## sachsmo (Feb 11, 2014)

Some saws don't gain a whole bunch if they were free flowing to begin with. Others are so choked up the muffler mod is at least 60% to 70% of the gain you will receive on a work ported saw.

You could port the hell out of some saws, but if the muff is stuffed you will not see the potential.


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## ILikesEmGreen (Feb 11, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> Some saws don't gain a whole bunch if they were free flowing to begin with. Others are so choked up the muffler mod is at least 60% to 70% of the gain you will receive on a work ported saw.
> 
> You could port the hell out of some saws, but if the muff is stuffed you will not see the potential.


Dare I go there, but in some instances, a stuffed muff isn't too bad. Lol

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## Homelite410 (Feb 11, 2014)

The 359 really benefits from a muffler mod but on that one the most important thing is getting more flow thru the baffle or adding a port behind the baffle.



muffler on left is 359.


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## wyk (Feb 12, 2014)

adventurebob said:


> Ok, so being the OCD skeptic I am, the results of muffler mods all seem to be anecdotal. .... My experience is from the Motorcycle and Snowmobile worlds. There's a lot of "seat of the pants dynos" but when you actually throw some stuff on a no kidding dyno, there's no gain and in some cases there's even a loss of performance. ...



As you would. Few people can modify a tuned exhaust better than factory engineers can to see real gains. The difference is, chainsaws do not have tuned exhausts. They simply have bolt on cans. And the exit hole and exhaust gas output are heavily regulated by the EPA both for sound pressure levels and emissions. A tuned exhaust on a chainsaw, using similar timing and porting a stock two stroke motorbike has will increase power to the point the saw becomes unreliable and dangerous for woods work. We have to find the middle gounrd, and that is porting and muffler modifications.

Here's some data a member posted a few years back:

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...d-data-temp-sound-level-and-preformance.6199/

And here is what we're talking about - a 20% improvement on Chad's Dyno with a simple factory dual port muffler mod. In other words, Stihl themselves detuned their saw to meet EPA regulations, and by simply replacing the old part modified by the factory, a 20% improvement in horse power was realized:

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...w-vs-hd2-and-oem-vs-dual-port-muffler.240387/


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## Chris-PA (Feb 12, 2014)

adventurebob said:


> Ok, so being the OCD skeptic I am, the results of muffler mods all seem to be anecdotal. While I have heard some great sounding mods, the question remains: What's the proof other than the sound that they actually do anything? My experience is from the Motorcycle and Snowmobile worlds. There's a lot of "seat of the pants dynos" but when you actually throw some stuff on a no kidding dyno, there's no gain and in some cases there's even a loss of performance. From what I know about building two stroke exhausts there's a lot of physics and math involved that have been boiled down to things that work and things that don't. Simply drilling a hole or punching fins in the can that exists doesn't seem to follow the published knowledge of gaining power from a two stroke. Someone please explain...


Because a tuned pipe has such a dramatic effect on power from a 2 stroke most of the published knowledge is basically "how to make the pipe work", which makes sense. But without a pipe at all, much of the tricks and techniques are not relevant or even counter productive. Also, these are really WOT, constant (sorta) rpm engines. And then there is strato porting. It's different - get your had into it and have fun, it will be something new to learn.


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## Str8six (Feb 12, 2014)

What are you guys using for the tube outlets? I love the look of the double round outlets pointing forward and would love to do my 550XP and 395XP. Also, are you just welding them in or what?


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## Homelite410 (Feb 12, 2014)

Str8six said:


> What are you guys using for the tube outlets? I love the look of the double round outlets pointing forward and would love to do my 550XP and 395XP. Also, are you just welding them in or what?


I have .625" .750" and 1.00" pipe. I silver braze all my muffler mods that I do. I use silvaloy 45% silver and an acetylene torch. Cleanliness is next to godlyness when it comes to silver braze. Oh and a good flux too!


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## Homelite410 (Feb 12, 2014)

Here is some of my brazing work.


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## adventurebob (Feb 12, 2014)

I appreciate the rationale discussion without the degradation into stupidity. I do have to say that Homelites mods are something I'd put on my 550. Very well done Sir, very well done.


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## weedkilla (Feb 12, 2014)

My requirement is a spark arrestor, does anyone have any links to sources of arrestor screen or tubes?
Also I recall there was a source of oem style outlets that could be welded on for a secondary outlet. Any links?


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## Homelite410 (Feb 12, 2014)

mx_racer428 said:


> My first 550xp muffler, has since move on to a fellow member. The 545, 550, 555, 562 are the same muffler really. The 555-562 are just a scaled up version.


Thanks but this IS the 550 muffler mod!!


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## TheLazyBFarm (Feb 13, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> I have .625" .750" and 1.00" pipe. I silver braze all my muffler mods that I do. I use silvaloy 45% silver and an acetylene torch. Cleanliness is next to godlyness when it comes to silver braze. Oh and a good flux too!



Home, any reason MM can't be MIG welded? I know that there is one TheChainsawGuy youtube video where he talks about bad MIG welding with loose weld wire getting into the engine etc., but what about a clean MIG weld job?

Thanks,


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## Lignator (Feb 13, 2014)

weedkilla said:


> My requirement is a spark arrestor, does anyone have any links to sources of arrestor screen or tubes?
> Also I recall there was a source of oem style outlets that could be welded on for a secondary outlet. Any links?



you can buy a Husky 288 deflector and spark arrestor screen for less than $20.


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## Lignator (Feb 13, 2014)

My latest MM: This is for a Husky 390xp that I picked up recently. I would like to open the stock port up more without altering the stock look of it. There is a lot of real estate to work with under there. Still working on that part of it. I too wanted to keep the ports screened. I sometimes cut in dry areas and have set moss ect on fire before. Also the screen helps keep chips out of the muffler.


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## Homelite410 (Feb 13, 2014)

Albin said:


> Home, any reason MM can't be MIG welded? I know that there is one TheChainsawGuy youtube video where he talks about bad MIG welding with loose weld wire getting into the engine etc., but what about a clean MIG weld job?
> 
> Thanks,


Well I'd agree with him. You can do as you please but I have had way better results with braze as the muffler is furnace brazed from the factory! I'm no welder so I'll pass on mig for my mufflers.


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## TheLazyBFarm (Feb 13, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> Well I'd agree with him. You can do as you please but I have had way better results with braze as the muffler is furnace brazed from the factory! I'm no welder so I'll pass on mig for my mufflers.



Well of course you agree since you don't have a MIG. Duh.

I don't have the capability to braze.

So, the question still stands: Any reason you can't MIG - assuming you keep it clean or can clean it up afterwards?


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## Homelite410 (Feb 13, 2014)

Albin said:


> Well of course you agree since you don't have a MIG. Duh.
> 
> I don't have the capability to braze.
> 
> So, the question still stands: Any reason you can't MIG - assuming you keep it clean or can clean it up afterwards?


I do have a wire welder but its too thin for me. Weld away my friend, just make sure its clean inside. The other advantage to brazing is you can use to dissimilar metals.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 13, 2014)

Albin said:


> Well of course you agree since you don't have a MIG. Duh.
> 
> I don't have the capability to braze.
> 
> So, the question still stands: Any reason you can't MIG - assuming you keep it clean or can clean it up afterwards?



I am no welder by trade, but I do a good job with mig welding. I have some black pipe that I am going to use for my next muffler mod. It measures .61" inside diameter. It is thicker walled pipe than anything else that I have seen on here. I just plan to get most of my heat in the weld focused on the pipe wall versus the muffler shell since the pipe is thicker.

Your weld gap should not really be big enough for excess wire to make it into the muffler to potentially break off and get inside the exhaust port on the cylinder. It sounds to me that someone needs to do a better job on the fitment side of things instead of trying to weld closed an air gap. 

I vote for "give it hell" on the mig welder.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 13, 2014)

Mig welding can be done. I AM a full time welder. You name it I can weld it. I won't mig weld muffler mods, not on the new cheap thin stuff that is. I've tig welded some and mig welded a few I will grab the silver solder any chance I can get over anything else. Just like anything out there there is a time and place for ever welding process and when it comes to muffler mods silver solder fits the bill for most if not all situations. 10 min job vs 20 or more plus a more factory cleaner look... Carry on.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 13, 2014)

Great to have an expert opinion! 

mx_racer428, what is your reasoning for mig being your least favorite? 

Is it structural, weld quality, etc.....? 

When you say "new cheap thin stuff" what exactly does that mean? How "new" did the cheap stuff start appearing? 

Thanks! 

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## Homelite410 (Feb 13, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Great to have an expert opinion!
> 
> mx_racer428, what is your reasoning for mig being your least favorite?
> 
> ...


The reason we don't like Mig is because the metal is so thin that no matter what, you will blow holes in it and have nothing but a fantastic mess. We are by no means putting down a mig welder however there is better choices on real thin muffler material. 

If you have your heart set on mig welding your muffler by no means don't let us stop you.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 13, 2014)

I don't have my heart set on it, but for me it is of easiest access. I have not brazed anything in 20 years. If I could brazed with an old coat hanger, I am sure that I could do it successfully. 

I could pick up the silver rod, but my thing is that I am lacking the torch to do so. 

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## Homelite410 (Feb 13, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> I don't have my heart set on it, but for me it is of easiest access. I have not brazed anything in 20 years. If I could brazed with an old coat hanger, I am sure that I could do it successfully.
> 
> I could pick up the silver rod, but my thing is that I am lacking the torch to do so.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


Yeah that really sucks when you don't have the one vital tool that you need.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 13, 2014)

It is a damn good excuse to buy more tools though! 

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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 13, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Great to have an expert opinion!
> 
> mx_racer428, what is your reasoning for mig being your least favorite?
> 
> ...




Mig welding can be done but it's more of a mess then The other options, tig welding can look good but boy does it eat up a lot of time. The silver solder just flows In the joint and that's about it. No real clean up compared to the mig, And not having to chance blowing a hole and chasing it for who knows how long. To me it's about how quick can I do the job done and what will look, work the best.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 13, 2014)

562 with completely gutted muffler and screen, tig welded.









550 with completely gutted muffler and 1" stainless pipe with muffling gullets, silver soldered. 







Don't mind my dirty saws. They earn there keep.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 13, 2014)

I kinda dig this giant fart box, I like the "rawness" of it. 




[/quote]


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## TheLazyBFarm (Feb 14, 2014)

mx_racer428 said:


> Mig welding can be done. I AM a full time welder. You name it I can weld it. I won't mig weld muffler mods, not on the new cheap thin stuff that is. I've tig welded some and mig welded a few I will grab the silver solder any chance I can get over anything else. Just like anything out there there is a time and place for ever welding process and when it comes to muffler mods silver solder fits the bill for most if not all situations. 10 min job vs 20 or more plus a more factory cleaner look... Carry on.



Ok, no booger welds make sense to me. Too thin muffler metal also makes sense as well, ie. booger welds due to blowing thru.

Off to look on how to do brazing (aka: Babe, I need some tools!!!)


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## Heilman181 (Feb 15, 2014)

What kind of silver rod are you guys using? Do you know an approximate cost?

I checked Harbor Freight, Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply and Ace Hardware with NO luck at all. I called the local welding supply house where I get my mig tanks and they had 15% silver brazing rod. They were 20" lengths and came in 1 lb. but they wanted $107.58.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 15, 2014)

Homelite410 may be able to hook you up, I get mine from him.


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## Shanster (Feb 15, 2014)

Ms 261
















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## Big_Wood (Feb 16, 2014)

for the dual pipe port guys. i like dual pipe ports. sounds and performs best . i got some more muff mods coming up if i don't get lazy  3120 just has one big pipe. pipes are just so much cooler then deflectors


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## sachsmo (Feb 16, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> I don't have my heart set on it, but for me it is of easiest access. I have not brazed anything in 20 years. If I could brazed with an old coat hanger, I am sure that I could do it successfully.
> 
> I could pick up the silver rod, but my thing is that I am lacking the torch to do so.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk




You can 'mig weld a muffler IF you are going steel to steel and you have the proper (small) wire gauge.


Where silver solder (brazing) come into play is the capability to adhere (notice I didn't say weld) different materials together.

Homelite 410 is spot on, most muffs you will see are furnace brazed for a reason, the light guage metal is hard to 'weld' by other means.


One thing you can't do (at least I can't) is mig a copper pipe, brass stock or other non ferrous materials onto carbon steel!


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## sachsmo (Feb 16, 2014)

Kind of hard to see in the pic, but the back 7-10 has a hand fashioned brass shim cover with double .38 'chrome 'shooters' silver 'brazed'.




Try that with a mig? My first (and last) muffler mod used a mig, yup I blew holes through the thin chit 

I aint no pro, but if'n there was a tig in me shop, I would give it a whirl again.


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## sachsmo (Feb 16, 2014)

Kind of hard to see in this pic, that back 7-10 has a hand fashioned brass shim stock cover with double chrome .38 'shooters.




My first (and last) muffler I used a mig on, yes I am not a pro welder, but am familiar with the process. It is hard to weld that thin of material with a mig. A tig would be more better.





Silver solder (braze) works for me, your mileage may vary eh?


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## zogger (Feb 16, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> What kind of silver rod are you guys using? Do you know an approximate cost?
> 
> I checked Harbor Freight, Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply and Ace Hardware with NO luck at all. I called the local welding supply house where I get my mig tanks and they had 15% silver brazing rod. They were 20" lengths and came in 1 lb. but they wanted $107.58.



Maybe a well equipped pro welding shop will sell you a few sticks.


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## sachsmo (Feb 16, 2014)

zogger said:


> Maybe a well equipped pro welding shop will sell you a few sticks.




Look up 'silver solder' I am sure McMaster Carr sells it.

You could try a search of 'silver solder' on the bag too. It is small gauge wire.

A little dab will do it as long as your not trying to fill too big of gap.


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## sachsmo (Feb 16, 2014)

And that migged one on the 359 would look better painted, flat black covers a lot of flaws.


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## ktoom (Feb 16, 2014)

What kind of bit do you use to cut the muffler metal, when widening the stock port? I have some bits that were giving to me that are good for porting. I just need something for harder metals.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 16, 2014)

Are they bits for aluminum or steel? Aluminum bits are generally more coarse, but you can use steel as long as you go slow so they don't plug up. 

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## ktoom (Feb 16, 2014)

I believe the are aluminum bits. I tried to use them before, but they kicked like it wasn't meant for that kind of metal.


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## Homelite410 (Feb 16, 2014)

I use standard carbide burrs, drill bits, uni- bit step drill and stones in my foredom. McMaster Carr is really hi priced and for you guys I just may become a supplier. We buy wholesale where I work and can save a lot!


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## Ranger Dave (Feb 16, 2014)

heres my 350 and 55 muff mod


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## Heilman181 (Feb 16, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> You can 'mig weld a muffler IF you are going steel to steel and you have the proper (small) wire gauge.



So I guess my 180 amp MIG with .035" wire isn't going to work!


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## Heilman181 (Feb 16, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> McMaster Carr is really hi priced and for you guys I just may become a supplier. We buy wholesale where I work and can save a lot!


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## Homelite410 (Feb 16, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> So I guess my 180 amp MIG with .035" wire isn't going to work!


180....... I'm jealous I only have a 140 Hobart but I do really like it for light stuff. 1/4" and under. Big stuff I have a copper wound arc welder for!


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## The Ripper (Feb 16, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> So I guess my 180 amp MIG with .035" wire isn't going to work!



get the wire size down to .023 and turn the amps WAY DOWN. I mig weld with a 110 and have no problems doing my muffler mods.


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## Moparmyway (Feb 17, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> So I guess my 180 amp MIG with .035" wire isn't going to work!


Yes, it will if you switch over to 0.023" wire and turn it down a little. My Miller 250 does just fine on mufflers with 0.023" wire


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## Heilman181 (Feb 17, 2014)

Moparmyway said:


> Yes, it will if you switch over to 0.023" wire and turn it down a little. My Miller 250 does just fine on mufflers with 0.023" wire



Wouldn't I have to change the shield inside the cable and get smaller tips before I can run .023" through it?


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 17, 2014)

Just tips and make sure your feeder rollers will go that small. No one said it couldn't be done. I know one thing for sure is I'm not going to stock .023 wire and switch over Jair for a muffler job when I can silver solder one In 5 or so min with very little effort. What ever floats your boat. If your welding stainless to your carbon steel muffler you "should" run 309 wire. Another reason silver solder is so friendly, quick and cheap to use.


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## Lignator (Feb 17, 2014)

anyone got a step by step on how best to silver solder?


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 17, 2014)

You should be able to get the idea from these


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## SquareFile (Feb 17, 2014)

Have your metals very clean. Use flux. You can use a map gas torch if you don't have oxy acetaline torch. Heat the materials and then puts the silver braze in the flame. The braze will follow the heat and only stick where flux is present.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 17, 2014)

mx_racer428 said:


> Just tips and make sure your feeder rollers will go that small. No one said it couldn't be done. I know one thing for sure is I'm not going to stock .023 wire and switch over Jair for a muffler job when I can silver solder one In 5 or so min with very little effort. What ever floats your boat. If your welding stainless to your carbon steel muffler you "should" run 309 wire. Another reason silver solder is so friendly, quick and cheap to use.



I have no desire to change over my current setup just to try to weld one muffler mod. I was more curious than anything. I will wait until I get some silver brazing rods.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 17, 2014)

shawn nolder said:


> Have your metals very clean. Use flux. You can use a map gas torch if you don't have oxy acetaline torch. Heat the materials and then puts the silver braze in the flame. The braze will follow the heat and only stick where flux is present.



Is flux, flux? Are there different kinds or will any flux do the job?


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## Lignator (Feb 18, 2014)

Great thanks! I have some silver solder wire and some black high temp flux I purchased from a welding shop. I had plans of brazing a lugged bicycle frame but never got around to it.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 20, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Is flux, flux? Are there different kinds or will any flux do the job?



So I stopped by Northern Tool and picked up a container of Hobart Brazing Flux. It is a powder type that you dip the brazing rod into before brazing. 

Is this stuff okay for a muffler mod?


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## SquareFile (Feb 20, 2014)

I'm not familiar with that type but it should work. I use a flux called Borax. Don't over complicate it, its not that difficult and its just a muffler. Clean materials is the key.


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## sachsmo (Feb 21, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> So I guess my 180 amp MIG with .035" wire isn't going to work!




Depends on how 'careful you are.

Think that 359 I did was with .040


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## sachsmo (Feb 21, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Is flux, flux? Are there different kinds or will any flux do the job?




No!

get the 'black' stuff.

It has silver content, the black works so much better than the white.

No doubt there's better places to buy the silver wire, probably find your best price on the net?


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## Heilman181 (Feb 21, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> No!
> 
> get the 'black' stuff.
> 
> ...



Where would one find the black stuff? Any stores regularly stock it?


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 21, 2014)

On my 550xp i just opened up everything under the deflector and was done in 10 minutes start to finish.


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## Big_Wood (Feb 22, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> On my 550xp i just opened up everything under the deflector and was done in 10 minutes start to finish.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



What kind of gains did you see on your 550? I got one coming but i'm kinda leaning towards it being my only quiet saw so may leave it bone stock. Might get bored on a snowy day though.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 22, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> No!
> 
> get the 'black' stuff.
> 
> ...



From what I was reading online the black flux is very corrosive and it is recommended to wash it with detergent and vinegar afterwards.......

Is there any truth to this?


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## KenJax Tree (Feb 22, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> What kind of gains did you see on your 550? I got one coming but i'm kinda leaning towards it being my only quiet saw so may leave it bone stock. Might get bored on a snowy day though.



The gains were very noticeable it made a big difference. It didn't get that much louder because i left the baffles inside alone. Its definitely worth the 10 minutes though. On my 562 i cut the baffle inside and its really loud.


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## Big_Wood (Feb 22, 2014)

I'll be looking into it then


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## Heilman181 (Feb 22, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> I'll be looking into it then



westcoaster, how far out do your dual pipes protrude from the muffler?


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## Big_Wood (Feb 23, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> westcoaster, how far out do your dual pipes protrude from the muffler?



depends what muff i'm modding and where i put the outlets. i get them far enough to give the exhaust direction. sucks when you don't have them far enough and they melt plastic and stuff. my 372 pipes don't stick out that far.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 23, 2014)

Mine is a 359. I was planning on 3/4" but I am thinking that is a little bit much. Maybe 1/2" would be better. 

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## Big_Wood (Feb 23, 2014)

are you planning to close off the factory port? i pretty well do with all my saws. if you do close it off i'd go with 1". if you leave it open i would go with 11/16 or 3/4's. whatever i could find. i don't really get to picky about sizing. as long as it's bigger then factory you did good. i aim for 100% of the exhaust port. a little less, a little more, i don't really care.


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## sachsmo (Feb 23, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> From what I was reading online the black flux is very corrosive and it is recommended to wash it with detergent and vinegar afterwards.......
> 
> Is there any truth to this?




Could be,

I leave my stuff in the 'buff so to speak.

I see some patina but doesn't look too bad.

Sure flat black grill paint will make it look sanitary, but I leave my welds/brazes 'naked' reminds me to do a better job next time eh?


After all it is just a muffler, even stock they tend to get pretty ratty looking after time.

My best suggestion is try some different methods and stick (pun intended) with what works best for you.


'Black' flux used here, no wash, two+ years since soldered/brazed;


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## sachsmo (Feb 23, 2014)

wanna see a strange one?

Uncle Lee (leeha) the known King of Big Inch Saws once told me this was THE most "unique" muff mod he had ever seen.

(guess that was about as nice as he could put it)

It's an old 1100 'jungle' muffler (four screws and it can go back to stock)

I was shooting for sumthin' akin to the old Max Wedge/HEMI Super Stock hood scoops (always been a mopar man)

Well as you can see it looks more like Daffy Ducks bill eh?

Oh well, bet there ain't another quite like it.

QUACK, QUACK!


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## Heilman181 (Feb 23, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> are you planning to close off the factory port? i pretty well do with all my saws. if you do close it off i'd go with 1". if you leave it open i would go with 11/16 or 3/4's. whatever i could find. i don't really get to picky about sizing. as long as it's bigger then factory you did good. i aim for 100% of the exhaust port. a little less, a little more, i don't really care.



Yes, I am plating over the OEM opening. Here is my rough fit muffler mod. These are 5/8" inside diameter, but I am not sure how far they stick out of the muffler case.


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## Homelite410 (Feb 23, 2014)

Here is another 59 I did




and another



and another


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## Heilman181 (Feb 23, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> wanna see a strange one?
> 
> Uncle Lee (leeha) the known King of Big Inch Saws once told me this was THE most "unique" muff mod he had ever seen.
> 
> ...



Good thing you got those extra large felling dogs.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 23, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> Here is another 59 I did
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Those look good! 

If my brazing work turns out even a fraction as good as yours I will be happy. Whoever had my non-CAT muffler be must have painted over the surface rust. I took the wire wheel on the angle grinder to it yesterday and got it all cleaned up. I will use some heat paint after I get the tubes brazed in and will be ready to roll. 

I have to braze in the patch to cover the OEM opening. I am just not sure whether to put the patch inside and braze it shut or put it on top and braze around it.


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## Big_Wood (Feb 23, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Yes, I am plating over the OEM opening. Here is my rough fit muffler mod. These are 5/8" inside diameter, but I am not sure how far they stick out of the muffler case.
> 
> View attachment 335275



oh my bad. your going with dual ports. no way would i consider 1" for that. single pipe ya but not dual. 5/8's is a nice size for dual ports.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 23, 2014)

In the event it needs it, can that silver braze be ground down after work is completed?


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 23, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> In the event it needs it, can that silver braze be ground down after work is completed?




Yes, you will not be able to mig weld over the braze though. As for cleaning with the wire wheel you may want to consider blasting as the white wheel can tend to hear up the paint and smear it isn't any small pores and the flux and silver solder will not like it.


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## Homelite410 (Feb 24, 2014)

My latest muffler. 670 Jonsered. 1" OD ss pipe


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## Big_Wood (Feb 24, 2014)

You gotta be damn near 200% on that one aye mike. One thing i can say for sure, she ain't gonna be quiet .


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## Homelite410 (Feb 24, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> You gotta be damn near 200% on that one aye mike. One thing i can say for sure, she ain't gonna be quiet .


1.38in2


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## Heilman181 (Feb 24, 2014)

Damn fine work there Homelite! 

Do you just use regular old heat paint when you are done? 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## Chris-PA (Feb 24, 2014)

westcoaster90 said:


> You gotta be damn near 200% on that one aye mike. One thing i can say for sure, she ain't gonna be quiet .


At that point the "outlet" is somewhere inside!


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## troylee (Feb 24, 2014)

Does anyone on here sell modded mufflers? I picked up a Walbro 215 for my 025, and now want to add a modded muffler.


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## Homelite410 (Feb 24, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Damn fine work there Homelite!
> 
> Do you just use regular old heat paint when you are done?
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


 Thank you for the complement, I have about an hour and 15 min in that one. I use stove paint on my mufflers when I'm done. It lasts about 2 yrs or so..


troylee said:


> Does anyone on her sell modded mufflers? I picked up a Walbro 215 for my 025, and now want to add a modded muffler.


None for sale here but I have done some mufflers for hire, or barter


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## Heilman181 (Feb 24, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> Thank you for the complement, I have about an hour and 15 min in that one. I use stove paint on my mufflers when I'm done. It lasts about 2 yrs or so..



Do you just spray them and let them dry? 

I was thinking about using that ceramic header paint, then baking it for about 30-45 minutes. 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## Homelite410 (Feb 24, 2014)

Yup


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## anlrolfe (Feb 26, 2014)

Helpful video for MS290, 310, 390 family



Louder isn't necessarily better or more powerful. Baffles are sometimes designed to improve flow @ specific RPM. Think cars with "tuned exhaust", "tuned intake" and the geometry of car engine header tubes. These are all built like musical instruments to RESONATE at a specific frequency(RPM). If you can do this to your saw, BAM, power band. If you want it to "look cool" just go ahead and hang some "danglies" (bar fastening devices) off the rear handle and make it match the hitch on your truck.

Here's a couple examples dealing with cars but the same techniques and theories apply





Hope this was helpful


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 26, 2014)

I was once working on a truck with an exhaust leak and tightened up a bolt with the rattle gun while the truck was running. The rattle gun damn bear stalled the truck, if that's not proof enough right there to what anlrolfe is saying I donno what is. That's why engineers get the big $$!


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## anlrolfe (Feb 26, 2014)

whatever


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## Homelite410 (Feb 26, 2014)

What do you guys think.


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Feb 26, 2014)

anlrolfe said:


> whatever



????


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## Homelite410 (Feb 26, 2014)

anlrolfe said:


> Helpful video for MS290, 310, 390 family
> 
> If you want it to "look cool" just go ahead and hang some "danglies" (bar fastening devices) off the rear handle and make it match the hitch on your truck.
> 
> ...



What are you getting at there?


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## Homelite410 (Feb 26, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> My latest muffler. 670 Jonsered. 1" OD ss pipe


For those of you curious about loud and flow, this is for a ported race saw. I was given this muffler and told to have fun. This is what I came up with! 

A man is only limited by his imagination.


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## wyk (Feb 26, 2014)

anlrolfe said:


> ...
> 
> Louder isn't necessarily better or more powerful. Baffles are sometimes designed to improve flow @ specific RPM. Think cars with "tuned exhaust", "tuned intake" and the geometry of car engine header tubes. These are all built like musical instruments to RESONATE at a specific frequency(RPM). If you can do this to your saw, BAM, power band. If you want it to "look cool" just go ahead and hang some "danglies" (bar fastening devices) off the rear handle and make it match the hitch on your truck.
> 
> ...



That would be helpful.... if your chainsaw has a pipe and was a four stroke... Tuned exhaust for 2-strokes are an entirely different principle.


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## anlrolfe (Feb 26, 2014)

> Tuned exhaust for 2-strokes are an entirely different principle.



Yup, no argument there but many similarities. Don't you think that the engineers had their pencils reasonably sharp and although they were not designing a race saw got flow and back pressure designed for a balance of power and economy.

Many people cite lower cylinder temps after muffler mod's and porting. If you flow enough raw unburned fuel straight through and out the exhaust things are bound to run cooler but you'll be filling up all the more. If anyone can prove otherwise I'm all ears.


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## Homelite410 (Feb 27, 2014)

I understand what your saying here but, would you spend a little more in fuel so that your saw runs cooler and in return lasts longer? I like cutting and hate waiting on a saw to cut, so if it costs me a little more to get the wood home faster and my saw runs cooler, than so be it. It is no fun cutting wood with a epa choked down turd of a saw!


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## anlrolfe (Feb 27, 2014)

Little more fuel? Depends. 

I have opened up the mufflers on my Stihl 026 and 039 to the point that they are equal or slightly more than their European brothers. I believe that the US emissions choked them back and slight improvement in flow returns them to the "As Designed" performance. So will this effect the fuel consumption? Sure. Does it effect it drastically? Nah! 

All that said, I'm probably running ever slightly cooler and ever so slightly dirtier but with noticeable improvements "in the cut".


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## Homelite410 (Feb 27, 2014)

Go my 2260 muffler done ready for paint.









its not perfect but I think it'll be ok.
That is a Jonsered 670 deflector I used.


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## anlrolfe (Feb 27, 2014)

Now that's why I like Silver Solder(Sil-Braze)

Smooth!


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## Homelite410 (Feb 27, 2014)

All done.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 27, 2014)

Looks good! 

How much did you open it up under the deflector?


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## Homelite410 (Feb 27, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> Looks good!
> 
> How much did you open it up under the deflector?


3/4" hole.


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## ILikesEmGreen (Feb 27, 2014)

Homelite410 said:


> Go my 2260 muffler done ready for paint. its not perfect but I think it'll be ok. That is a Jonsered 670 deflector I used.


It's close enough for govt work. Looks good!

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


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## wyk (Feb 27, 2014)

anlrolfe said:


> Yup, no argument there but many similarities. Don't you think that the engineers had their pencils reasonably sharp and although they were not designing a race saw got flow and back pressure designed for a balance of power and economy.



The top main design criteria are emissions, noise, and size(will it fit). If efficiency were higher up, chainsaws would have huge louvres or ports as they did before 1996 when the first serious rounds of emissions laws attacked two stroke engines(a la the dual port mufflers on Stihls). Everything about chainsaw mufflers is foremost a compromise of these aforementioned factors. Tuning a tiny box to 'resonate' properly or add tuned back pressure is like teaching a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig. If you want plenty of back pressure, you couldn't do any better than to use a tiny box with a tiny hole for a muffler unless you simply plugged the exhaust.



> Many people cite lower cylinder temps after muffler mod's and porting. If you flow enough raw unburned fuel straight through and out the exhaust things are bound to run cooler but you'll be filling up all the more. If anyone can prove otherwise I'm all ears.



Most of the 'excess' heat is the factory saw running lean into an exhaust that is not designed to flow well. A good mixture out of a free-flowing exhaust will almost always be cooler than a relatively new stock saw set to factory specs to pass emissions.


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## Heilman181 (Feb 28, 2014)

Is there any "ratio" for the volume of the muffler when compared to the cc size of the engine? 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## tbone75 (Mar 6, 2014)

Just had to put this one up. LOL Haven't started the saw yet to hear it ? A good friend gave the cover to me to put on my 064 , just put it on the other day .


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## Heilman181 (Mar 7, 2014)

My hat is off to you fellas that silver braze and make them look that good. 

Apparently, I can't hit a bulls ass with a base fiddle! 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## TheLazyBFarm (Mar 7, 2014)

Heilman181 said:


> *My hat is off to you fellas that silver braze and make them look that good. *
> 
> Apparently, I can't hit a bulls ass with a base fiddle!
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk



Just in case someone missed it! Next time in Lowe's I'm gonna look into what it takes to braze.

When should you do a MM on a brand new saw - in this case, my Stihl MS-362 C-M? Wait for the 2 year warranty to be up or.....

Thanks,


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## Heilman181 (Mar 7, 2014)

TheLazyBFarm said:


> Just in case someone missed it! Next time in Lowe's I'm gonna look into what it takes to braze.
> 
> When should you do a MM on a brand new saw - in this case, my Stihl MS-362 C-M? Wait for the 2 year warranty to be up or.....
> 
> Thanks,



Ideally you need acetylene and oxygen. You can get away with a mapp gas and oxygen setup, which is what I have. You will need flux and also silver brazing rod (NOT silver solder in the roll).

Go watch numerous youtube videos on how to silver braze, then go out to the garage/shop and screw it up. Well, at least that is how it went for me.


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## Heilman181 (Mar 7, 2014)

I got the front of the dual pipes done with silver braze. It is not beauty queen, but I am sure it will flow exhaust gases. 

The way I ran my dual pipes through the internal baffle, I wanted to attach the pipes inside too. Then I had to weld on a "top plate" where I cut the muffler open to remove the OEM exhaust port. 

I was so fed up with brazing, I did the inside welds and top plate with the mig welder.

I will attach some pictures after it is painted.


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## Heilman181 (Mar 7, 2014)

OK, here she is! 







Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## Heilman181 (Mar 7, 2014)

This is the opening that I cut to remove the OEM exhaust port on top of the muffler. 

I tacked the nut in the middle so that I could screw in a bolt to hold the "top plate" while I tacked it in place. 

I used 10 gauge steel and it covers the whole top. I placed it inside and focused the mig weld on the heavier steel. 

Cut the nut off and ground down the weld. 

It ain't pretty, but it should work. 







Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## hoskvarna (Mar 10, 2014)

HittinSteel said:


> 346XPGView attachment 331057










here's my 346,1in pipe but look closely inside.


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## brian22 (Mar 10, 2014)

My first soldering job. Wow that is a lot easier and cleaner than welding.


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## Heilman181 (Mar 10, 2014)

brian22 said:


> My first soldering job. Wow that is a lot easier and cleaner than welding.View attachment 338629



First of all, good job! 

Second, you suck! Haha! 

I don't know what I was doing wrong. 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## redfin (Mar 11, 2014)

660.



261.


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## Komatsu_Mech1 (Mar 11, 2014)

Just thought I would throw up some pics of a mod I did on a MS390 I had, the added piece is cut and ported along with the inner structure to direct exhaust out. I was surprised as to how well it sounded, had a nice smooth but not to loud tone, as for performance I hogged the exhaust port a little while in there and the throttle response woke up a little but still wasn't the saw I wanted so down the road it went.


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## flotek (Mar 11, 2014)

The clamshell stihls seem to really wake up with a muffler mod they are especially choked up .


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## Ironworker (Mar 30, 2014)

346 xp waiting on a load of wood to test, I hope it's big enough.


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## whitedogone (Mar 31, 2014)

Thinking of adding some gills to my 362. anyone done those on a 362? I don't want it to get TOO loud.


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## Lignator (Mar 31, 2014)

i did a mm to my ms362 (added another port, w/ screen) and it's a lot louder....that said, the power gains were worth it.


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## Ironworker (Mar 31, 2014)

flotek said:


> The clamshell stihls seem to really wake up with a muffler mod they are especially choked up .


Funny you should say that, my first mm was on a husky 445 and I was very surprised at the gains.


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## Ironworker (Jul 3, 2014)

After running my 2188 for a while I thought I would add another port, it ran fine the way Terry did it, but sounded like it needed to breath a little more.



I also painted it with a shinier black, looks good with the red.


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## SS Sniper (Jul 3, 2014)

sachsmo said:


> Homelite410 does some nice work.
> 
> I have one that is pretty off the wall.
> 
> ...


Looks like a duck haha


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## Haywire Haywood (Jul 4, 2014)

Blast from the past. I like Andy's (Lakeside53) solution to doing an MM and still having an effective unrestricted spark arrestor. Unfortunately most of the pics are gone. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lakeside53s-361-muffler-mod-w-photos.33528/


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## Ironworker (Jul 4, 2014)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Blast from the past. I like Andy's (Lakeside53) solution to doing an MM and still having an effective unrestricted spark arrestor. Unfortunately most of the pics are gone. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lakeside53s-361-muffler-mod-w-photos.33528/


I always use a screen when doing an mm.


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## SquareFile (Jul 4, 2014)

562 mod with screen intact


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## SquareFile (Jul 4, 2014)




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## Haywire Haywood (Jul 4, 2014)

I think Andy said that a flat screen over a hole restricts it pretty good with just a little carbon buildup and his method with the screen tube inside had a lot more area to help with that. I don't run screens on mine.


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## SquareFile (Jul 4, 2014)

The screen I use was recommended by Mastermind. 67% open. Stainless steel mesh from amazon. I don't think carbon would build up. I like using screens to prevent objects getting in.


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## Red Amor (Jul 4, 2014)

anlrolfe said:


> Helpful video for MS290, 310, 390 family
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
thankyou for posting you work , I found it very helpful, you didn't say what fuel oil mix you run and what ratio, I use a Castrol synthetic and a 98 octain unleaded fuel at 25 to 1


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## regulate34 (Jul 5, 2014)

tbone75 said:


> Just had to put this one up. LOL Haven't started the saw yet to hear it ? A good friend gave the cover to me to put on my 064 , just put it on the other day .View attachment 337865


that's Gnarly. I like how the front bead sight was left on. Guns and chain saws two great things


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## LegDeLimber (Jul 5, 2014)

Do the double barrel scatter guns come with swappable chokes?
Could be a new tuning aid here.


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## Tor R (Jul 5, 2014)

Jonsered CS 2253WH Muff Modd
Not a nice looking muff modd, but it works  (forgot to take pics of the screen and the muff modd there)

Before:



After:



Ready for action:


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## KenJax Tree (Jul 5, 2014)

Its gonna be loud as hell


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## Tor R (Jul 6, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> Its gonna be loud as hell


Oh yes, hearing protection is a must.
However I feell that it was worth it.


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## hoskvarna (Jul 6, 2014)

. This is my 2188. Pipe goes thru to other side of muff, with long pipe and little ports inside of pipe it pulls some exhaust back into muff for some back pressure but still let's it breath ,1in pipe. Quiets a little too. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2


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## hoskvarna (Jul 6, 2014)

. Did the same thing on the 555. I have put a 562 p&c and stuffers,so it's a 560 now. Also flashed 562 tune into it,runs sweet. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2


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## hoskvarna (Jul 6, 2014)

. Same on 372,needs blasted and painted. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2


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## Ronaldo (Jul 6, 2014)

371xp with copper elbows brazed in. Sounds nice


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## Ronaldo (Jul 6, 2014)

Jonsered 2152 with piece of electrical conduit brazed in. Nice low throaty tone.


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## sachsmo (Jul 6, 2014)

KenJax Tree said:


> Its gonna be loud as hell




YUP!

those of us NOT in the trade don't need to worry about noise.

This one will wake the dead. It was my first chainsaw mod after coming to these pages.

The 361 was THE saw to cure every diabolical illness known to man.

Rumor was the 359 was just as stout if'n it could breath?


Let's just say I let her breath!


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## DexterDay (Jul 6, 2014)

I can't take credit for this one. But it's a clean 2nd port


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## A.E. Metal Werx (Jul 6, 2014)

hoskvarna said:


> . Did the same thing on the 555. I have put a 562 p&c and stuffers,so it's a 560 now. Also flashed 562 tune into it,runs sweet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2




Looks like you did some good work there...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hoskvarna (Jul 6, 2014)

Ya u did


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2


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## super3 (Jun 6, 2015)

Not up to 410's caliber yet but, here is my latest 395 muffler.


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## Ronaldo (Jun 6, 2015)

super3 said:


> Not up to 410's caliber yet but, here is my latest 395 muffler.
> 
> View attachment 429078


Very nice! Any pics of it installed?


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## big t double (Jun 6, 2015)

Haywire Haywood said:


> Blast from the past. I like Andy's (Lakeside53) solution to doing an MM and still having an effective unrestricted spark arrestor. Unfortunately most of the pics are gone. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lakeside53s-361-muffler-mod-w-photos.33528/


This was the first real muffler mod I did..I followed the pics in this thread...when you could still see it. I never knew the lakeside dude but he seemed real up on his sh!t...so props to him for this... I've posted this before but here goes again...


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## super3 (Jun 6, 2015)

Ronaldo said:


> Very nice! Any pics of it installed?



Not yet, saw is in line for a port job. I'll post another pic when finished.


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## gomoto69 (Jun 7, 2015)

I did this to my 298xp, haven't done any timed cuts or anything, but it seems to run well, but here's my issue now, i'm building an alaskan mill for this saw, and would like to use a silencer i have off a kx100. There's no way i can mount it now without blocking off one of these outlets, so here's the question, is the can necasary at all, or could i simply build a manifold and pipe straight off the exhaust port and into the silencer? Anybody tried this? I would like quieter for milling, and also to direct exhaust away instead of straight at the log. Not looking for big gains, just not a big loss. I guess just trying might be my best option. Any thoughts?


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## Sty57 (Jun 7, 2015)

SquareFile said:


> The screen I use was recommended by Mastermind. 67% open. Stainless steel mesh from amazon. I don't think carbon would build up. I like using screens to prevent objects getting in.


Do you have a link for the screen? 

Thanks, Brian


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## BGE541 (Jun 7, 2015)

Heilman181 said:


> So I guess my 180 amp MIG with .035" wire isn't going to work!


It can work just take your time, use that set up often...


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## wde_1978 (Jun 7, 2015)

This is my PS-7900 muffler mod:


It is nothing fancy like You guys do.
On the outside it intentionally looks stock , I only "opened it up" a fair bit without completely gutting the innards.

I:
- un-crimped the fold to get the two muffler halves apart
- drilled open the existing holes of the deflector and added a few more
- grinded open the "mouth" of the deflector a little more
- grinded open the existing outlet hole keeping the original outlet cover and maintaining the possibility to use the stock spark arrester screen
- re-assembled the muffler and re-crimped the fold






I am satisfied with the result. 
My PS-7900 sounds really mean with this muffler mod and the noise frequency is highly addicting.


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## BGE541 (Jun 7, 2015)

So do they all just "uncrimp" like that... never tried, Thanks


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## wde_1978 (Jun 7, 2015)

BGE541 said:


> So do they all just "uncrimp" like that... never tried, Thanks


My PS-6400 & PS-7900 are pre-CAT/SLR and thus have a muffler out of normal steel and can be un-crimped easy enough while *COLD*.

To my understanding CAT/SLR mufflers are made out of Stainless Steel and need be heated *RED HOT* for un- & re-crimping.

I have read some members just grind the muffler fold open and weld the halves back together afterwards , but that requires additional skills and tools (mostly for the welding part).

Some mufflers appear to be bolted together , but I might be wrong.


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## Cope1024 (Jun 7, 2015)

BGE541 said:


> It can work just take your time, use that set up often...



A good 140 amp MIG will do the job.


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## Sty57 (Jun 7, 2015)

How are you guys doing a 361? 
Are you uncrimping them and removing the baffles or just putting a second port?
Let's see some pictures please. 

Thanks, Brian


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## Sty57 (Jun 7, 2015)

Here's my 2186







And 346xp





Thanks, Brian


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## BGE541 (Jun 27, 2015)

See posts #536-545 for the Echo saws

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/15-echo-cs620pw-information.278407/page-27


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## ANewSawyer (Jun 27, 2015)

wde_1978 said:


> My PS-6400 & PS-7900 are pre-CAT/SLR and thus have a muffler out of normal steel and can be un-crimped easy enough while *COLD*.
> 
> To my understanding CAT/SLR mufflers are made out of Stainless Steel and need be heated *RED HOT* for un- & re-crimping.
> 
> ...




The two cat muffler I have worked on were very hard to open. I think map gas is required to get the crimp hot enough. I ground both of my muffler open with a angle grinder. One a friwnd welded back together. The second one, I am trying as a simple bolt together. I am watching it for the potential for exhaust to melt the housing. I haven't noticed a problem yet.


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## bwalker (Jun 28, 2015)

Tor R said:


> Oh yes, hearing protection is a must.
> However I feell that it was worth it.


Even double hearing protection won't fully protect you.
I say this as someone who has lost 90% of my low frequency hearing by age 38.


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## bwalker (Jun 28, 2015)

The designs that expelled the exhaust forward suck IMO. You end up catching the bark on fire of certain trees like white and yellow birch. Plus the noise reverberates of the tree back at you.


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## Sty57 (Jun 28, 2015)

MS361

















Thanks, Brian


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## super3 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ronaldo said:


> Very nice! Any pics of it installed?


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## Big Block (Jul 9, 2015)




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## Big Block (Jul 9, 2015)

Echo 590 I cut out the inner rear facing baffle on the ss deflector and cut that rectangle out on the inside pre inner baffle. It is stupid loud but has a good note. 

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## Skeans (Jul 9, 2015)

562xpw falling saws




Old 385 this muffler has seen better days to say the least. Both of these are falling saws on the west coast.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BGE541 (Jul 18, 2015)

Skeans said:


> 562xpw falling saws
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Does the 562XP benefit from that amount of air flow? Looks good may have to try this, no AT issues?

Thanks


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## BGE541 (Jul 18, 2015)

Echo 620 with a 288XP deflector added on, richened up 1/4 on H side and sounds like a much different saw now... FWIW No white dogs were hurt by this saw lol


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## BGE541 (Jul 30, 2015)

TTT for muffler mod up dates!


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## Big Block (Jul 30, 2015)

Ttt?


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## BGE541 (Jul 30, 2015)

Big Block said:


> Ttt?


To the top


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## Ronaldo (Jul 30, 2015)

TTT -----how about "Tweaked Twin Tin"


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## hseII (Jul 30, 2015)

This title gets me ever time


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## zogger (Sep 19, 2015)

Great thread! I'm getting close to needing to braze my 359 creation. I took the stock cat muffler and after butchering it, sent away for an aftermarket new one with the side pipe. That will stay intact until I figure out how to screen that. Today I took the die grinder and cut the top plate off the old muffler with the screen screw hold down intact, got it all. Got it cut down and ground out smooth enough, tomorrow is final fitting, just needs a little bending and stuff, it is mostly good to go now.. Next step would be the brazing, I have never done it. I bought the cheapo bernzomatic mapp/oxy rig today. It has five different unlabeled rods. Any way to tell which is the best for the brazing I will need to do? I didn't see any labeled silver brazing rod at the store, just some rolls of silver solder, which I didn't buy. If anyone is familiar with those welding kits and knows about the little starter pack, please recommend which rod to use, I assume one with the flux on it? I will clean the area and get the paint off first of course. The pic is the new muffler, the thing on the side is the rough cut plate off the old muffler. Cut out and ground down that pipe segment on the cut off piece since that pic, and made two nice openings for it on the new muffler, it fits pretty good now. Started with the screen bolt stud, then made a wider opening for the exhaust and deflector.. Going to go right back where it was inside back of the new muffler, so I'll have a dual, odd, but dual port there. Just trying to learn new stuff, this welding/brazing.


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## echoshawn (Sep 20, 2015)

Ugly 5200 style mm on my 3400/4000 frankensaw . Ugly welds because my mig was acting up, and, well, I'm a farmboy welder.
Drilled out baffle, but screen still inside.


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## zogger (Sep 20, 2015)

Finished cleaning and smoothing the donor piece, cleaned paint off where it was to be brazed on new muffler. Staked it down to hold with two screws, just barely enough to hold it in place, nothing hanging down inside, cut them off flush after brazing. Then smoothed out amateur globs and painted it. We'll see if it holds! I'll get some proper silver rod and flux for the next project. Hardest part was lighting torch and keeping it lit with proper small blue flame in the wind.


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## Sty57 (Sep 20, 2015)

zogger said:


> Finished cleaning and smoothing the donor piece, cleaned paint off where it was to be brazed on new muffler. Staked it down to hold with two screws, just barely enough to hold it in place, nothing hanging down inside, cut them off flush after brazing. Then smoothed out amateur globs and painted it. We'll see if it holds! I'll get some proper silver rod and flux for the next project. Hardest part was lighting torch and keeping it lit with proper small blue flame in the wind.


Looks good for your first time.
If I were you I would get some small pieces of sheet metal and practice. Just play around with different Temps. Just to see how it will react. 

Sliver is nice but it's really expensive. I would stick with bronze until you fell comfortable doing it. 


Thanks, Brian


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## Sty57 (Sep 20, 2015)

I would also get your self some 3/32" bare bronze rod and a tub of flux. It's much easier to control the smaller rod and the flux doesn't make as big of a mess. 

Also make sure everything is really clean. No paint, oil or dirt.

Thanks, Brian


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## zogger (Sep 20, 2015)

Sty57 said:


> I would also get your self some 3/32" bare bronze rod and a tub of flux. It's much easier to control the smaller rod and the flux doesn't make as big of a mess.
> 
> Also make sure everything is really clean. No paint, oil or dirt.
> 
> Thanks, Brian



As soon as I find another little deflector/screen donor part in my junk I will remove most or all of that front tube and add the deflector there. That will be some more practice. In the meantime I'll try it out on some fresh greener wood around here, don't want to use it on the big dead oak, I already started one fire there sawing! hahaha Went and got a jug of water and got it out. That super dry punky oak, man that lights up with the tiniest spark. I also like screens to keep the mud daubers out. So far I like this 359 a lot, seems a good compromise size/weight/handling for a one saw plan, so this might become my official new truck saw. After the muffler is done and I am satisfied with it after using it a few tanks, etc, this might be my first saw to try and port as well, that will be later.


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## lucky_dad01 (Sep 22, 2015)

390 husky



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lucky_dad01 (Sep 22, 2015)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ironworker (Sep 22, 2015)

Here goes a couple I just did on a couple of saws I ported.




359 cat muffler.


365 Xtorque


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## CoreyB (Sep 22, 2015)

Here is a video a some asked for on the stihl 192 /192t


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## Greenthorn (Sep 22, 2015)

I just finished modding my 261, did the muffler and the timing advance, thanks Mike from the WKY GTG and mastermind.

I also dremeled out the baffle.


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## bikemike (Sep 22, 2015)

gomoto69 said:


> View attachment 429132
> I did this to my 298xp, haven't done any timed cuts or anything, but it seems to run well, but here's my issue now, i'm building an alaskan mill for this saw, and would like to use a silencer i have off a kx100. There's no way i can mount it now without blocking off one of these outlets, so here's the question, is the can necasary at all, or could i simply build a manifold and pipe straight off the exhaust port and into the silencer? Anybody tried this? I would like quieter for milling, and also to direct exhaust away instead of straight at the log. Not looking for big gains, just not a big loss. I guess just trying might be my best option. Any thoughts?View attachment 429132


 like that? This is a 25cc weed whip on a longboard I wanted it quiter and I achieved it with a home built glass filled silencer


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## briantutt (Sep 22, 2015)

lucky_dad01 said:


> 390 huskyView attachment 448869
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Pics of it "in process"?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## lucky_dad01 (Sep 22, 2015)

briantutt said:


> Pics of it "in process"?
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Didn't do it myself, the guy that built the saw did it. Sorry.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Stihlsmoking (Sep 26, 2015)

Best muff mod ever! A little hairy but? The hole is perfect!!


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## Stihlsmoking (Sep 26, 2015)

I didn't do it myself.
But damn I'd love to run some wood in it or run it through some wood or well you know what I mean.


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## Deleted member 83629 (Sep 27, 2015)

I'm possibly going to possibly muffler mod my husqvarna 545 i thought about bending back the deflector and either drill a five eighths or three quarter inch hole in the outlet.


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## KenJax Tree (Sep 27, 2015)

jakewells said:


> I'm possibly going to possibly muffler mod my husqvarna 545 i thought about bending back the deflector and either drill a five eighths or three quarter inch hole in the outlet.


If you have a Dremel tool its easy to make a small hole for the bit and then open everything up the deflector. But a drill bit will work too


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## Homelite410 (Oct 4, 2015)

Here is my latest ms360 I believe for lowvolt.




volt.


















This was my first mod with a screen. And I retained stock opening and screen.


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## Homelite410 (Oct 4, 2015)

Here is a 5105 I vowed to never do again. I used the cover as the front of the muffler and then black hi temp powder coated the ss muffler.


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## zwoehr (Oct 4, 2015)

Homelite410 said:


> Here is a 5105 I vowed to never do again. I used the cover as the front of the muffler and then black hi temp powder coated the ss muffler.


Very cool. I kind of like the unpainted look though. Reminiscent of an old works type expansion chamber.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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