# Pole saw injuries?



## familytreeman

I have a friend whose pole saw was knocked loose, and the hook side of the tool hit his bicep 
causing a softball sized contusion. Many people have also been cut by the blade...

Has anyone else been injured from a pole saw in tree?

Hand pinched between butt of pole and limb? this has got me before

Pole slip through your grip and butt end hit you in the upper thigh? see photo 


What are everyone's methods for pole use in tree, in regard to safe storage while not in use?


My company is creating some safety tools that could really help in this industry!


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## Philbert

Powered pole saw or manual?

My expectations for injuries would be getting hit by falling branches cut overhead. 

Keeping the pole saw at a 60 angle is a good starting point for safe use. 

Philbert


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## familytreeman

Manual pole saw. I don't recommend cutting branches overhead either. 

I'm trying to group injuries from the pole saw directly.

Thank you for your reply and helping me clarify.


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## Pelorus

If not using the saw, I think you are s'posed to have a scabbard over the blade.
Which would be safe, but inconvenient.
Be nice if someone invented a commercial duty spring loaded retractable blade polesaw.


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## yoyoman

Pelorus said:


> If not using the saw, I think you are s'posed to have a scabbard over the blade.
> Which would be safe, but inconvenient.
> Be nice if someone invented a commercial duty spring loaded retractable blade polesaw.



I use my elastic neck lanyard to hold the scabbard while making the cut to minimize the time the blade is exposed and limit it to only that time in which I am making a cut, then put it back on immediately after each cut. I think it could just as easyly be stored on a clip on your harness etc. I don't mined getting whacked with the saw and getting a bruise of some sort but that blade is some serious hurt anyway it touches you.

video of a canopy clean using the pole saw staring at 8:00, this link should take you to that time stamp.


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## stltreedr

I would think the repeated motion, soft tissue injuries, such as elbow tendonitis, rotator cuff, are probably the most prevalent. I rarely use a pole saw in a tree- usually can reposition to get where I need to be.


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## Philbert

Interesting video yoyoman. 

Thanks for posting. 

Philbert


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## Pelorus

Hey yoyoman - kudos to you for the interesting ideas and methods you think of!


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## NYTREECLIMBER

About 20yrs ago I guy I was working with hung his polesaw on a sucker while he wasn't using it and when he was repositioning underneath it his rope hit it a made it fall and the blade slid down over his shoulder blade and left a gruesome slash about 9" long. When I use a polesaw in a tree which is almost never i will girth hitch a nylon sling around a limb and just hang the polesaw in it


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## familytreeman

Excellent video yoyoman ! Also, really nice tree work as well


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## rarefish383

Back when I was still climbing, 20 plus years ago, it was quite common for climbers to have big long gashes on the back, shoulder, or scalp from a polesaw falling and ripping them as it went by. I had a splinter abouth the size of a skinny bal point pen go all the way through my hand in the meaty part between my thumb and forefinger, Joe.


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## Philbert

This is very enlightening. I didn't realize there would be such an issue with a manual saw.

Philbert


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## derwoodii

down under manual pole saw use within trees is not common and some company's dont even have them as standard gear for ground crews
This amazes me as they are cheap and can sort tasks that other wise needs climber to extend beyond or get in a work lift

I use mine daily and is saves customer heaps of $ while making my task far easier

As for injury's sustained in use by me well none really, in the tree well take care aim away from face, on the ground tripping while moving looking up is common mishap.
Contact of above wires is one to keep in mind my poles aluminum so very conductive so great care in this area thinking always of the back swing and safe tool vs wire distance


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## lego1970

I leave the scabbard on as long as possible, but once it comes off, then I try to keep the blade hanging around my leg or foot level, that way if it falls it won't rake across my neck or some other potentially life threatening area. If I have to hang it above my head then I hang it backwards and as far away from where I'm working as possible. Pruner heads are different and while they can still leave a nasty wound, I don't keep them level with me and the reason is because it to easy to want to grab the pruner by the head and if the rope snags, there goes a couple fingers. So despite it being dangerous from fall, I still like to keep it up higher then me. Oh, likewise if you keep a pruner pole in the sidebox of a chipper truck. Be sure not to pull it from it's head....to easy to lose a couple fingers. That's my only suggestion which you may already know.


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## familytreeman

Thank you for all your great feedback, suggestions and advice!

I designed a pole handle attachment which helps in some large open canopies. Please check it out in the hand tool section, entitled *'pole handle attachment idea'*

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pole-saw-handle-attachment-idea.251192/


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## Philbert

Post a link?

Philbert


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## familytreeman

sorry 'bout that, http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pole-saw-handle-attachment-idea.251192/


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## treesmith

I've only used a pole in a tree for collecting graft wood on contract so it was a case of climb, use, descend. It always had the scabbard on and I pulled it up when it needed it and back down to the ground when I didn't. Unwieldy and a pain in the ass up a tree and never gave me the cut I wanted, I preferred a hand saw/top handle for proper target pruning but it was quicker for that specific job. Wouldn't want one hanging anywhere near me or my rope


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## k5alive

a few years ago a guy on my crew was working under a power pruner picking up brush as it was falling, the operator of the polesaw had a bad habbit of letting the saw drop after a branch was cut, long story short the groundie got his forearm tendons shortened, many stitches and a new job. were still good friends now but he cant make a fist and bent his wrist down without his fingers opening up.


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## Mr. Moonshine

k5alive said:


> a few years ago a guy on my crew was working under a power pruner picking up brush as it was falling, the operator of the polesaw had a bad habbit of letting the saw drop after a branch was cut, long story short the groundie got his forearm tendons shortened, many stitches and a new job. were still good friends now but he cant make a fist and bent his wrist down without his fingers opening up.


new job? as in he could no longer do that work? or got fired?


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## Wolfcsm

Are there any long term issues? I would expect that the overhead work would cause issues in the shoulder.

Hal


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## derwoodii

Wolfcsm said:


> Are there any long term issues? I would expect that the overhead work would cause issues in the shoulder.
> 
> Hal



yes and the neck,, you need to measure your on tool time vs your own strengths over do it n yer buggered


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## Wolfcsm

I try and keep the saw lower than my shoulder. Could not always do that - so I went out and got a HT 101 extendable pole saw. So far I can keep it lower than my shoulder.

Hal


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## szajer

The pole saw is my sword. Used more than any tool I employ for tree care. 

Back in 1997, climbing late winter- snow on the ground yet drizzling rain— "typical Ohio weather." I was descending a large red oak and had to tie in twice in order to make it to the ground. As I finished tying in and making my final descent, I took my pole saw from its perch above me, and advanced it by letting it slide through my hand, until I get to the hook/blade. Well, it was slick and it went further down than I anticipated. So as to grab hold before losing it to the ground, I reached for it, extending my arm vertically. The very tip of the blade poked thru my sweatshirt, flannel, and arm warmers-- leaving a small hole I the top layer of clothing. 

I knew right away it was worse than it felt. I slowly pull up my sleeves and found I had a 5" cut thru every dermal layer to the muscle. Surprisingly it didn't bleed at first. I guess my body was like; Oh no you didn't! 

Anyway, 3 hours and 8 sutures later, I was patched up. 


This is one of a few pole saw mishaps the past 20+ years climbing.....


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## Philbert

Yikes!!!

Until I read this thread I did not realize the extent of injuries with these saws. I assumed that, since they were manual, they would be safe, especially compared to chainsaws.

(would it make me a Troll to start a thread on 'top-handled pole saws'?)

Philbert


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## treesmith

Scabbard


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## szajer

Yeah, I can see your point in regard to a scabbard, but at the rate I use the pole saw, it wouldn't be feasible. Just another 'thing' to have dangling from my saddle.

My only other brush with fate came when again, I was descending a large pin oak -with utility lines just feet away. The tree was located in the backyard were it had been pruned completely bare on one side, due to it being in line with the power companies right of way.

So as I was readying to touch earth, I grabbed for my pole saw that was hanging -and started letting it slide thru my hand to get to its middle for stability. But as I was doing this, a tooth happened to make contact with the power line. Just feet away from the back of my head- I see a brilliant blue flash with the sound of death just behind it. Scared the living hell outa me!

I made it to the ground and looked at where the blade touched. The electricity had blown off an inch worth of teeth and welded the remaining area. At the time I was using the old school poles that were made from a solid 12' piece of linden wood, with an aluminum Fred Marvin head and Fanno blade. May have been a different story with the Silky I use today.


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## beastmaster

Interesting how different people feel about the pole saw. I have several pole saws with different blades for doing different kinds of jobs. On some trees, like pine trims, I'll do the whole tree with a pole saw. Biggest problem is carrying one around with you in the tree. I carry mine upside down with the handle girth hitched to my saddle with a sling. I reach down grab the sling, and in a single motion have the saw ready to cut. Though I haven't had a pole saw related injury is more luck then skill, I've had a lot of close calls with that blade over the years, thats why I like to keep the blade as far a way as possible when I climb though a tree.


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## beastmaster

szajer said:


> Yeah, I can see your point in regard to a scabbard, but at the rate I use the pole saw, it wouldn't be feasible. Just another 'thing' to have dangling from my saddle.
> 
> My only other brush with fate came when again, I was descending a large pin oak -with utility lines just feet away. The tree was located in the backyard were it had been pruned completely bare on one side, due to it being in line with the power companies right of way.
> 
> So as I was readying to touch earth, I grabbed for my pole saw that was hanging -and started letting it slide thru my hand to get to its middle for stability. But as I was doing this, a tooth happened to make contact with the power line. Just feet away from the back of my head- I see a brilliant blue flash with the sound of death just behind it. Scared the living hell outa me!
> 
> I made it to the ground and looked at where the blade touched. The electricity had blown off an inch worth of teeth and welded the remaining area. At the time I was using the old school poles that were made from a solid 12' piece of linden wood, with an aluminum Fred Marvin head and Fanno blade. May have been a different story with the Silky I use today.



Im glad you made it through that. HV isn't very forgiving. A guy I use to work with brother used a alum. handle off a pool scupper net to use for a pole pruner handle, It worked pretty good, tell the day of the accident. I was there when they told him, It still haunts me.


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## TreeGuyHR

stltreedr said:


> I would think the repeated motion, soft tissue injuries, such as elbow tendonitis, rotator cuff, are probably the most prevalent. I rarely use a pole saw in a tree- usually can reposition to get where I need to be.


Tell me about it. I had a job 5 years ago involving around 50 medium sized oaks. First stage was thinning the weak ones and dead-wooding the rest I ended up getting severe tendonitis in BOTH elbows at the same time. Ouch.

While climbing, I yanked on my pole saw lanyard when the saw hung up (without looking at it) -- the saw blade poked a gash just above my eye. Should have retired the blade, but I only had broken off the first 2 inches so it was still good without the rounded end, right?


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## szajer

TreeGuyHR said:


> broken off the first 2 inches so it was still good without the rounded end, right?


What I've noticed of pole blades is -the more the better.

I've used Fanno and ARS blades for years. Their arch is modest, a slight concave. I've been with Silky now for 6 years and their bend radius is rather aggressive comparatively. The nose of the blade -I find, gets the most use. It's what keeps your blade 'in cut' as your sawing away. Any bent, cracked, broken blades should be disregarded. Now as for bent, I've honed many blades straight. But the alloys are compromised -and will simply fail sooner or later.


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## TreeGuyHR

I have quite the collection of used blades as well. At around $30 each, the large hooked ARS blades are hard to toss when dull. I find that they are stiffer than other brands and less prone to bend but more prone to break. It is also worthwhile to clean and oil them when they get pitchy. And yes, I will never use one with a broken tip again -- I would like to keep both eyes.


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## Philbert

Anybody sharpen theirs? I have sharpened my consumer grade pole saw blades with a triangular file, and it made a big difference. Don't know if you need feather files for the pro grade blades, or if it is worth the time.

Philbert


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## beastmaster

Philbert said:


> Anybody sharpen theirs? I have sharpened my consumer grade pole saw blades with a triangular file, and it made a big difference. Don't know if you need feather files for the pro grade blades, or if it is worth the time.
> 
> 
> I sharping my silky blades all the time. It took a while but I can do it pretty fast now. At 80.00 a blade I want to get as much use out of them as I can. Most blades you can't sharpen, if they have been "inpulse harden", forget it. I get 4 or 5 sharpens on them before they don't work as well then toss them in the pile.
> The silkys take a special feather file. Their 30.00 a piece, but I find them on ebay every once in a while for less


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## thisisfluff

In the rare occasion I have a pole saw or pole pruner w/ me I will either girth hitch it w/ a strap to a branch out of the way of my work area or if I am moving to a new area in tree, I will use a long strap and hang it below me while I move, always keeping a wary eye on it. When I first started climbing I saw a guy nearly impale himself on his polesaw b/c he didn't pay attention as he was descending out of the tree right to the spot he threw his pole into the ground before coming down. We were able to stop him within inches of the blade pointing at his backside. Gotta treat them like any other sharp object we use, w/ a whole lotta respect.


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## GroundSquirrel

Pelorus said:


> If not using the saw, I think you are s'posed to have a scabbard over the blade.
> Which would be safe, but inconvenient.
> Be nice if someone invented a commercial duty spring loaded retractable blade polesaw.


Better to be safe so you can live another day to grouse about the inconvenience!



> a few years ago a guy on my crew was working under a power pruner picking up brush as it was falling, the operator of the polesaw had a bad habbit of letting the saw drop after a branch was cut, long story short the groundie got his forearm tendons shortened, many stitches and a new job. were still good friends now but he cant make a fist and bent his wrist down without his fingers opening up


And THIS is why you never drop your guard in the LZ or get to close to a 'cutter' wherever that cutter might be working! Sorry to hear this.


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## Slang

yoyoman said:


> I use my elastic neck lanyard to hold the scabbard while making the cut to minimize the time the blade is exposed and limit it to only that time in which I am making a cut, then put it back on immediately after each cut. I think it could just as easyly be stored on a clip on your harness etc. I don't mined getting whacked with the saw and getting a bruise of some sort but that blade is some serious hurt anyway it touches you.
> 
> video of a canopy clean using the pole saw staring at 8:00, this link should take you to that time stamp.




You guys are freakin' amazing! Much respect to you, from Slang.


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