# Thread on You Tube falling mistakes



## smokechase II (Dec 30, 2009)

This will probably digress.

I'm hoping for a concise - individual opinion - selection of falling errors as shown on You Tube.

Nothing complete in the way of an education, but perhaps a nice visual how-not-to supplement.


----------



## smokechase II (Dec 30, 2009)

*Example one*

Forestry in Sweden 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ3kDa0JUWo&NR=1&feature=fvwp

Look at the opening sequence with a matching face cut required by a shorter bar.

Note the incomplete face cut.
It has an angle in it that can sponsor a tipping action as the tree goes over.
Loss of control either way can occur.

Jump ahead to the 3:33 - 3:37 time and note how it does cause the tree to 'change direction'.

This type of irregular face will tend to hold a tree up longer also.


----------



## smokechase II (Dec 30, 2009)

*Brief educational source*

What I'm hoping for is something quick, so as to not waste the viewers time.

The best way, to correct someone's error here would not be with the usual argument phase.

Could you post a video or other pics of the correct method based on your experience?

This is a pretty neat site for world wide opinions on falling technique.

We can all learn.

A civil concise discussion with evidence.

Thanks


----------



## Nailsbeats (Dec 30, 2009)

I would think a 20" bar would help out without too much more weight to carry. For limbing and boring it just offers more reach. Not sure what he was running but it must have been 16" or smaller. Maybe he wanted the chain speed and rpm's the short bar offers for boring. 

I think he may have wanted the uneven face to trigger a roll as it makes it's way through the tops . It's possible he knows why he's doing what he's doing and isn't making a mistake.


----------



## treemandan (Dec 30, 2009)

I don't know. He wasn't setting ropes so I guess he had to use the notch and wedges so he put more work into the notching. I don't like the way he buried the tip of that short bar with his hand on the side of the handle. I about jumped out of my seat when I saw that.
I don't know about the pointy notch thing either. Maybe Nails is right about helping it roll out ot the other trees. I think I would have used a longer bar and cut conventional, there would still be room to put a wedge I guess but I only dropped one real tree this year without a rope and haven't touched a wedge in years.


----------



## MR4WD (Dec 30, 2009)

Nailsbeats said:


> I would think a 20" bar would help out without too much more weight to carry. For limbing and boring it just offers more reach. Not sure what he was running but it must have been 16" or smaller. Maybe he wanted the chain speed and rpm's the short bar offers for boring.
> 
> I think he may have wanted the uneven face to trigger a roll as it makes it's way through the tops . It's possible he knows why he's doing what he's doing and isn't making a mistake.



I looked at the video... And it looks like he does know what he's doing. I think the tree rolled out at the same time it hit that messed up face. I'd much rather have a 372 with a 32" bar and a 7 pin than that 346/16 set up... But then at the same time if you watch this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPBEsQ__PgI

You can see where the little bar and little zippy saw shine in really small thinning and small falling/dense limbing operations though... I reckon if you're gonna have one saw, it better be able to do what you usually do better than what you sometimes do though...


----------



## Meadow Beaver (Dec 30, 2009)

Yeah no one ever told them its important to make a good lay.


----------



## Metals406 (Dec 31, 2009)

I see a bunch of mismatched cuts, bar angles all over hell's half-acre. . . And as said above, absolutely a huge pile of pick-up-sticks.

Not sure if he's intending for those faces to be that way or not? They sure are ugly and unclean.

As far as the 18" bars, all I can think is OUCH. My back hurts just watching the video. Give them guys a 28" bar, and their back would thank them at the end of the day. . . Esp. in pre-commercial thinning.

To each their own I guess, but there's a time and a place for a bore cut, all they're doing is slowing down production IMHO.


----------



## Meadow Beaver (Dec 31, 2009)

Maybe if they had bigger saws and longer bars, and skillz.


----------



## dingeryote (Dec 31, 2009)

I ain't a pro faller by a long stretch of the term, but dadgum it seems like the guy spent waaaay to much time ratttling the tree around while standing under stuff that coulda fallen.

Maybe I'm not seeing something.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


----------



## Metals406 (Dec 31, 2009)

*Gear Queer. . .*

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/P088bMP7jq0&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/P088bMP7jq0&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


----------



## isaaccarlson (Dec 31, 2009)

*I think he just likes wearing out bars and dropping trees on*

people and cameras. HE ALMOST HIT HIS BUDDY!!! You don't do that to your buddy.....tsk tsk...
Yeah use a longer bar for sure.


----------



## clearance (Dec 31, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> *Gear Queer. . *


*

I agree, all that to fall a tree...a "large" one as well. I guess the old humbolt, backcut deal is so 1980s.....*


----------



## pinemartin (Dec 31, 2009)

Nuff said


----------



## robfromaz1977 (Dec 31, 2009)

clearance said:


> I agree, all that to fall a tree...a "large" one as well. I guess the old humbolt, backcut deal is so 1980s.....



Your right. The humbolt would have been to simple for that guy. And if that was a large tree, then the stuff I cut down for fire wood must be huge.


----------



## bullbuck (Dec 31, 2009)

i would consider that to be a class a"beaver cut"remove enough wood and it will go somewhere!


----------



## pinemartin (Dec 31, 2009)

No notch?????


----------



## Burvol (Dec 31, 2009)

Wedging "big trees"...with a ball pin hammer. OK 

They tell you how and where to stand, exactly where to put your legs and shoulder. Nothing about that could be under the lean. I have seen video of tons of people that can only cut with the tree to their left shoulder. What the hell? Oh wait, you only have half your handle bar! :hmm3grin2orange:


----------



## Burvol (Dec 31, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> I see a bunch of mismatched cuts, bar angles all over hell's half-acre. . . And as said above, absolutely a huge pile of pick-up-sticks.
> 
> Not sure if he's intending for those faces to be that way or not? They sure are ugly and unclean.
> 
> ...



That tree was a perfect 32" bar tree. They all are. Go long for a while and your so use to it, anything less feels strange except for the 28. I guess I could survive in an emergency with one. If your over 6 feet tall, a 32 should pretty much be standard in the wood he was cutting. I can just see these guys crawling around and bucking with midget bars, what a sight. Go buck blow down and you'll understand why long bars shine in logging.


----------



## Gologit (Dec 31, 2009)

Burvol said:


> That tree was a perfect 32" bar tree. They all are. Go long for a while and your so use to it, anything less feels strange except for the 28. I guess I could survive in an emergency with one. If your over 6 feet tall, a 32 should pretty much be standard in the wood he was cutting. I can just see these guys crawling around and bucking with midget bars, what a sight. Go buck blow down and you'll understand why long bars shine in logging.


Well said. I don't watch too many of those tree disaster videos. They make my teeth hurt.


----------



## bitzer (Dec 31, 2009)

They have an unlimited supply of fuel in Europe! They also like dancing around while felling and limbing, great cardio! There's only so many trees over there, they have all the time in the world to drop them. Really unbelievable how long it takes to cut a tree down over there. I was told by a guy over there that the shorter the bar the greater the skill of the sawyer. I told him they take forever to cut a tree down over there. No reply. Long bars save lives! and backs...


----------



## SWE#Kipp (Dec 31, 2009)

Don't know if a longer bar saves life's ,,, skill on the other hand do with or with out a long bar ,,,,,

Don't saying the guy in vid is skilled, but pretty much the same discussion you guys have here occur about your way of logging on some of the European forums 

Happy new year to you all !!

Ps. I do use longer bars 

(15"-36")


----------



## Meadow Beaver (Dec 31, 2009)

Burvol said:


> That tree was a perfect 32" bar tree. They all are. Go long for a while and your so use to it, anything less feels strange except for the 28. I guess I could survive in an emergency with one. If your over 6 feet tall, a 32 should pretty much be standard in the wood he was cutting. I can just see these guys crawling around and bucking with midget bars, what a sight. Go buck blow down and you'll understand why long bars shine in logging.



I like that, midget bars. LMAO :greenchainsaw:


----------



## smokechase II (Dec 31, 2009)

*A couple quick thoughts*

If the faller is drawing a line from above with either their hand or eye, as an extension out from the saw sights, they are aiming generally and not being as specific as they could be if they put both the sights and the target in the same view. Like aiming a pistol. The sights are short in both instances - but please aim 'down the barrel' when accuracy is required.

In a similar vein and as previously stated, a ball peen hammer is a weak tool.
A 4 pounder, (falling axe), would be minimum for competency. Especially when you can drive to the stump, for heavens sake.

=======================

Did you ever know a skier who was good that could only turn one way?
(No Oval Track Racing jokes.) 
The faller who always makes all his cuts from one side limits themselves from working in topography, trees that actually are larger and around dangerous trees/snags.
With adequate bar length, all the cuts can be made from one side of the tree. This is necessary when dealing with a steep slope or a tree with hazards or access limitations on one side.
It should be noted that there are inherent weaknesses with most any technique and the open face has one here in that making the initial sloping cut while sighting from the 'right' side is so difficult that you virtually never see a GOL type using it from that side.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --

The way to get good at making all your cuts from either side is to practice cutting on whatever side you're uncomfortable on till you are equally good there. Get that weakness out of your mind and body.
The way to get good at hitting a precise target is to do that on *every tree*.
Don't pick out a target 40 feet out and settle for being 'just' a couple feet off. 
Hit something 80' plus and regard yourself as a failure to humanity if you don't nail it spot on.


----------



## smokechase II (Dec 31, 2009)

*28" vs. 32" Bar*

Longer bar discussion. I've posted this before and there is no since in believing it now either.

A thinning crew supervisor locally for the State Forestry claims to have virtually eliminated back injuries on his crew.
Went from something like just below a dozen in two years to none by moving up from 28" bars to 32" bars thinning.
Bending over, a lot, every day, for weeks at a time ..........
You can say bend your knees all you want, but people get tired, legs get tired and they bend at the waist and they hurt their backs.
Thinning with a longer bar looks like a compensation for some inadequacy but it represents intelligence.
(I'm aware that thinning the smallest trees is best done by weed whacker type circular saws. That is intelligent, holding your equipment with a harness.) However, when the trees get too big for that equipment ........) 

In response to longer bars saving lives.
They do without a doubt.

The further from danger you can place yourself the better.

Picture yourself buck a 30" log that is going to release with speed and power. One side could be going up and/or the other could be headed down.

Cut all you can on the off side with a 36" bar. 

Finish on your side with yourself even further from the danger zone because of that off side cut.
Picture how much further your bar gets your body from those forces.


----------



## SWE#Kipp (Dec 31, 2009)

Longer bars are good for the type of logging you guys do and i would not like to be logging in your terrain with short bar, but the video commented in this thread is not made by professional logger but by a recreational cutter it's a hobby for him.
And as far as bending over with a short bar when thinning in the terrain we have, well if your technique and planning are bad you will bend over.

Personally I try take different techniques and use what i can from them to make my work safer and more productive day in woods, for me that means using long bars were i need them and shorter were they fit better 

I'm a bit surprised some of you are so quick to judge other techniques as bad or wrong just because they don't fit your kind of logging ,,,,,,

Happy new year !!!!


----------



## John Ellison (Dec 31, 2009)

*I am only 5'6 or 7" tall*

So take this for what its worth. Usually I agree with the west co. fallers, but saying long bars are the best for every situation is wrong. Just the same as GOL bore cut and release for every tree is wrong.
Sure, there are places where you need the long bar/methods but there are places where you don't. In this area and I suspect others as well if you cant safely fall timber with a 20" bar working from one side of the tree in most all cases a longer bar will not help you any at all. There are exceptions but if 95% of your stumps are 12 to 20" and the ground is flat, you are faster with a shorter bar.
I usually do not have back problems, but I had a much tireder? back when using a long bar all day than when using a short one. 
Can any other fallers that have actually used both long and short bars to fall timber comment on this? I know that I was also against short bars until I finally tried the shorter versions here in the flat ground ,park like always sunny conditions that we have here.

The guy did say in the first video that that tree was much larger than what he usually fell. I have to say that from what I saw (whatched only parts of it) that on that ground and in those trees I would probably use a 20" bar and work the trees up from the ground. I think that his bi-directional undercut or whatever it is was just sloppy work on his part.


----------



## John Ellison (Dec 31, 2009)

SWE#Kipp said:


> Longer bars are good for the type of logging you guys do and i would not like to be logging in your terrain with short bar, but the video commented in this thread is not made by professional logger but by a recreational cutter it's a hobby for him.
> And as far as bending over with a short bar when thinning in the terrain we have, well if your technique and planning are bad you will bend over.
> 
> Personally I try take different techniques and use what i can from them to make my work safer and more productive day in woods, for me that means using long bars were i need them and shorter were they fit better
> ...



Just now read your post and will say I agree completely Kipp. Happy New Year!!!


----------



## forestryworks (Dec 31, 2009)

the gear queer guy made his face, back cut, and hinge in a defect area of the tree.

did he check for soundness, or did he just get lucky?


----------



## Burvol (Dec 31, 2009)

smokechase II said:


> If the faller is drawing a line from above with either their hand or eye, as an extension out from the saw sights, they are aiming generally and not being as specific as they could be if they put both the sights and the target in the same view. Like aiming a pistol. The sights are short in both instances - but please aim 'down the barrel' when accuracy is required.
> 
> In a similar vein and as previously stated, a ball peen hammer is a weak tool.
> A 4 pounder, (falling axe), would be minimum for competency. Especially when you can drive to the stump, for heavens sake.
> ...



Your dang right! Cutting all trees from one side is like a pitcher throwing the same pitch over and over, just hoping for the best. _Doesn't anyone know what the uphill/downhill side of timber is?_ (I'm not talking the ground) You wonder how saws get smashed? Losing trees? (Cutting from under the lean) 

People can believe or say what they want, but we do things out West because they work in our timber (which is anything from massive to tiny-get it?) Yes, there are big hardwoods, and big trees, but truly big wood in AK,BC,WA,OR,CA is a completely different animal. The techniques and practices we use were developed to keep people alive and not break up the wood. I'm not biased against anyone, so please don't feel that I am jabbing.


----------



## 056 kid (Dec 31, 2009)

Burvol said:


> Wedging "big trees"...with a ball pin hammer. OK
> 
> They tell you how and where to stand, exactly where to put your legs and shoulder. Nothing about that could be under the lean. I have seen video of tons of people that can only cut with the tree to their left shoulder. What the hell? Oh wait, you only have half your handle bar! :hmm3grin2orange:



Hay, I can cut in all directions, & with only half a handlebar.

I do like the 3/4 or full ones better though....


----------



## Burvol (Dec 31, 2009)

056 kid said:


> Hay, I can cut in all directions, & with only half a handlebar.
> 
> I do like the 3/4 or full ones better though....



I'm pretty decent with a misery wipe and axe, but we don't do it like that anymore


----------



## isaaccarlson (Dec 31, 2009)

*Then you have people like this...*

I will let the vid speak for itself. Listen to what she says at the beginning....."the big saw froze up"
no mix??????
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/dnn-WDiqp_0&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dnn-WDiqp_0&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


----------



## 056 kid (Dec 31, 2009)

You know you have got to feel like a dumb ass when that happens!!


----------



## Burvol (Jan 1, 2010)

Classic example of what I was talking about. Just cut everything from that side, even under the _lean_.


----------



## slowp (Jan 1, 2010)

In the _Forestry in Sweden 1_ besides having a good lunch, they did what many fallers do, dropped a tree across the road. Now around here, when that happens it means the yarder can't be moved in and set up until the shovel is walked in to clear the road. Gotta think about things like that too. If the shovel is needed a couple miles away to still load trucks out, it can make for some bad thoughts about the fallers. Of course, I'm talking about trees that do not lean over the road. And they usually won't if the road is brand new.  Are we still friends?:greenchainsaw:


----------



## Burvol (Jan 1, 2010)

slowp said:


> In the _Forestry in Sweden 1_ besides having a good lunch, they did what many fallers do, dropped a tree across the road. Now around here, when that happens it means the yarder can't be moved in and set up until the shovel is walked in to clear the road. Gotta think about things like that too. If the shovel is needed a couple miles away to still load trucks out, it can make for some bad thoughts about the fallers. Of course, I'm talking about trees that do not lean over the road. And they usually won't if the road is brand new.  Are we still friends?:greenchainsaw:



We make it a practice to not practice treating the road like it's your strip. My Dad is usually the one we always delegate to cut the road & powerline strips. He is the guy that everybody has always relied on when things really count.


----------



## Burvol (Jan 1, 2010)

isaaccarlson said:


> I will let the vid speak for itself. Listen to what she says at the beginning....."the big saw froze up"
> no mix??????
> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/dnn-WDiqp_0&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dnn-WDiqp_0&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>



Did you notice he just goes over to the far side and cuts up all of his holding wood while standing under the lean right off the get. His arms dropping and his whole body in disbelief is of the utmost classic caliber.


----------



## SWE#Kipp (Jan 1, 2010)

isaaccarlson said:


> I will let the vid speak for itself. Listen to what she says at the beginning....."the big saw froze up"
> no mix??????
> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/dnn-WDiqp_0&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dnn-WDiqp_0&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>



Love that clip


----------



## hammerlogging (Jan 2, 2010)

John Ellison said:


> Just now read your post and will say I agree completely Kipp. Happy New Year!!!



I appreciate both of ya'lls comments.

I cut for a couple of years with a 20, cloassic east coast directional felling crap. I worked for a couple of ex heli dudes and they convinced me to atleast try a longer bar. I did. I NEVER looked back.

All of my fallingpast and opresent has been targeting mature hardwood timber, although depending on the prescription that can also mean cutting lots of smaller diameter junk. 

If all I was doing was small diameter junk I would drop to a smaller/lighter saw but keep the longer bar (I'm 6'3" so a 32" seems good) to save weight. If it won't pull the longer bar, hop up the smaller cc saw so it will.

Walking the trunks limbing all is "at your finger tips". I can bore through most of my stems when felling, and it gives me mor clearance for crap under lots of tension.

If I may once again repeat the converstion that led to my evolution:
"But here in the east coast we pride ourseleves in being able to cut a 50" butt with a 20" bar"

"We can too, but its not as fast"

Period.


----------



## John Ellison (Jan 2, 2010)

For me its mostly the terrain that decides bar length and style. Here I can put every thing flat on the ground and a short bar is faster for me than walking the log. If the timber were a bit bigger/ with steeper or broken up ground that would all change.

Hey SC you did say we would probably digress, did'nt you?


----------



## coastalfaller (Jan 2, 2010)

Gologit said:


> Well said. I don't watch too many of those tree disaster videos. They make my teeth hurt.



:agree2:


----------



## bitzer (Jan 2, 2010)

The tree on the house guy has probably never seen a wedge in his life. Like many guys around here if you put a face in it the tree has to fall in that direction no matter what right? wrong. His saw could use a tune up too. Old lady commentary is great, wish I could see the fallers face when he turns around! 


Longer bars have saved my ass on several occasions and they will again. Bucking under pressure for one. Felling a hazard tree you are already that much farther away,2. Extra reach limbing, walking a log or not, 3. Back saver,4. Most of my terrain here is flat. We do have plenty of rolling hills and steep drop offs but nothing like out west or in appalachia. I can get most of my work done with a 25" and that is the shortest I have run for about 5 years now. Bigger or hazard trees or more dangerous bucking and I've got a 36" bar for those. Originally I ran 16s, 18s, and 20s for the first two years of felling because that is what the boss had. I had a revelation one day after getting poked in the eye about a hundred times by sticks that a longer bar will give me longer reach and safer distance. I put a 25" bar on the bosses acount and never looked back. I run 25" bars on my 60cc saws and 28" on my bigger saws 70- 80+cc, but I also have the 36" option when I need it. An extra 5" may not seem like much compared to a 20" bar but it really is an extra step or so away. It seems a lot farther. Just like a 32" to 36", only 4 inches but seems like a mile. Around here a 32" does not seem practical on a daily basis, but 25" and 28" do for sure. Only three cuts on a tree instead of 6 with a smaller bar is a lot easier. Also if you can only cut from one side of the tree and the bar is too short, its not a lot of fun. Short bars have their place, just not for me.


----------



## char (Jan 2, 2010)

Burvol said:


> Did you notice he just goes over to the far side and cuts up all of his holding wood while standing under the lean right off the get. His arms dropping and his whole body in disbelief is of the utmost classic caliber.



I'm guessing he could have put that directly at the camera or 180 degrees from that. A little wedge, boom, done. 

Or, realize that there is a house right there worth way more than a pro and have them do a takedown.


----------



## redprospector (Jan 2, 2010)

John Ellison said:


> For me its mostly the terrain that decides bar length and style. Here I can put every thing flat on the ground and a short bar is faster for me than walking the log. If the timber were a bit bigger/ with steeper or broken up ground that would all change.
> 
> Hey SC you did say we would probably digress, did'nt you?



I know what you're talking about short bars. Since I demoted myself to being just a thinning contractor, I dropped down to 28" bars myself. oke: :hmm3grin2orange:

Andy


----------



## Burvol (Jan 3, 2010)

redprospector said:


> I know what you're talking about short bars. Since I demoted myself to being just a thinning contractor, I dropped down to 28" bars myself. oke: :hmm3grin2orange:
> 
> Andy



A 28" reduced weight with either a modded 372/460 is a great thinning combo. Plenty of power on that size of bar, just enough reach and light weight.


----------



## 137cc (Jan 3, 2010)

*found this on youtube*

I don't know if anyone else has seen this one. But it looks like a perfect example of a Darwin awards finalist.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b18D_GV_JEs&feature=related


----------



## clearance (Jan 3, 2010)

137cc said:


> I don't know if anyone else has seen this one. But it looks like a perfect example of a Darwin awards finalist.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b18D_GV_JEs&feature=related



Tremendous!


----------



## Meadow Beaver (Jan 3, 2010)

137cc said:


> I don't know if anyone else has seen this one. But it looks like a perfect example of a Darwin awards finalist.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b18D_GV_JEs&feature=related



I wouldn't hire him because he can't operate a camera let alone a chainsaw.


----------



## Oly's Stump (Jan 3, 2010)

That guy should be on Ax Men with that Marine Logger goof


----------



## Gologit (Jan 3, 2010)

Kinda gives new meaning to the old logging term "cut and run". Idiots, pure and simple.


----------



## redprospector (Jan 3, 2010)

Hahahaha. 
I can see the add now.
Gently used skidder for sale by widdow. 

Andy


----------



## redprospector (Jan 3, 2010)

Burvol said:


> A 28" reduced weight with either a modded 372/460 is a great thinning combo. Plenty of power on that size of bar, just enough reach and light weight.



I'm gonna have to try one of those reduced weight bars. 
Thinning, I don't cut many trees that a 28" won't cut from one side. The main thing though is I really don't like hunching up like a monkey on a football when limbing. 

Andy


----------



## dingeryote (Jan 4, 2010)

137cc said:


> I don't know if anyone else has seen this one. But it looks like a perfect example of a Darwin awards finalist.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b18D_GV_JEs&feature=related



They HAVE to be doing dope.
No other explanation.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote


----------



## GASoline71 (Jan 4, 2010)

Burvol said:


> Go buck blow down and you'll understand why long bars shine in logging.



That's a fact mang. 



Gologit said:


> Well said. I don't watch too many of those tree disaster videos. They make my teeth hurt.



I will never understand why some drips put videos on youtube of their so called "skills". There should be more dead people... but lady luck usually shines on idiots more than people with true skills.

There are some cats that are members here that I can't believe still have all their fingers and toes. Or haven't had their teeth knocked out from "fallin'" trees.

Gary


----------



## joesawer (Jan 6, 2010)

When I started logging in Alabama 16" bars where the norm on 70+ cc saws. Much to my grandfathers dismay it is what I used. He logged some of the last bigger timber in the east and worked during the transition from misery whip and ax to chainsaw.
When I started doing tree service work I started using a 24" bar for general use and a 36" when necessary.
Then I settled on a 32" for most general purpose falling when I started logging small parcels for myself. I learned the hard way the advantage of increased accuracy in your cuts.
When I went west and worked with the guys from PNW started using a 36" bar at first but settled on 32" bar on a 372 and a 42" on a 395.
I am back in AL right now and am cutting mostly with a 32" bar. But the other day I dug out an old 24" and full comp chain that I put a square grind on and cut up an oak tree into fire wood and it was pretty dang fast.
Don't let any one tell you that a 372 wont pull a 32" in eastern hardwood. Just because it wont for them does not mean it will not do it.
Also most people have no concept of what bad ground is. When you are in real danger of falling off the mountain it changes your priorities.
If some body does not NEED caulks they probably don't NEED a long bar. 
Lol But even when I don't need one I like a 32". But remember to some people a 32" is a little short bar!


----------



## slowp (Jan 6, 2010)

Sometimes, I'd like to have a 20 foot long bar. I don't like blowdown excitement. I spend a lot of time staring at it before and during cutting. Ah, the Zen Of Blowdown. Focus, try to understand it, be the tree....


----------



## GASoline71 (Jan 6, 2010)

slowp said:


> Ah, the Zen Of Blowdown. Focus, try to understand it, be the tree....



Sounds like the start to a good book... 

Gary


----------



## 056 kid (Jan 6, 2010)

GASoline71 said:


> That's a fact mang.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I never understood it either Gary, I DO know that the liberal media has somthing to do with it though...


----------

