# Great deal on a Craftsman Riding Mower



## MontanaResident

I picked this up a few weeks ago, and such a deal. $100 and it was mine. 

It runs and does cut some grass. I will drop the mower deck and replace or sharpen the cutting blades in the spring of 2022.

A few days ago it would not start. With the multimeter I became pretty confident it was a problem with the ignition switch. I sprayed the area pretty good with some aerosol electrical contact cleaner and it now starts and runs just fine. I love finding and fixing these types of problems. 

With my very old 10ft^3 dump trailer moving split wood and rubbish becomes a simple and fast job.


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## MontanaResident

Sitting all winter, since November, and the mower started right up.

Not bad for a 24yo $100 mower. With the Century Arc Welder I still need to tighten up the steering, and the front tires still have a slow leak. I’ll spray the belts with some belt dressing and the mower will be ready for work this coming season. I find it a better machine for hauling wood with the dump cart, and of course keeping the wild yard from from growing out of control. With the repaired mowing deck, it is ready to get to work. Tis all good.


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## MontanaResident

Another mower today. Doesn't run, or runs poorly. I expect electrical or carburetor cleaning should fix its problem. Guy was asking $250, but I got him to agree to $150. It is a T1200, like I had bought for $450 last year, cleaned up and sold for $1000. Hopefully I can repeat this. More seed money, and looking to purchase 3 or 4 more like this, this spring and summer. Then I will be looking for some logging/firewood equipment that is to normally to costly for me to consider. A tree pusher would be nice.


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## djg james

MontanaResident said:


> Another mower today. Doesn't run, or runs poorly. I expect electrical or carburetor cleaning should fix its problem. Guy was asking $250, but I got him to agree to $150. It is a T1200, like I had bought for $450 last year, cleaned up and sold for $1000. Hopefully I can repeat this. More seed money, and looking to purchase 3 or 4 more like this, this spring and summer. Then I will be looking for some logging/firewood equipment that is to normally to costly for me to consider. A tree pusher would be nice.
> 
> View attachment 979298
> 
> 
> View attachment 979299


Hey, that looks like mine which I bought new years ago. Transmission went out after two months and the kohler engine blows oil out the mufflers. Wouldn't buy another Craftsman new now a days (if available) but for $150....


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## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Hey, that looks like mine which I bought new years ago. Transmission went out after two months and the kohler engine blows oil out the mufflers. Wouldn't buy another Craftsman new now a days (if available) but for $150....



Yeah, these T series mowers are popular, because they are cheap. Lots of them around. Still hard to get at Lowes and Home Depot due to the Pandemic. Buy them used, clean them up, fix some issues and sell for a profit. 

In my area it is John Deere and Craftsman (and their clones -- Toros). The Craftsman are used and abused and very inexpensive to purchase used. John Deeres' seem to be taken care of and sell for a premium. Profits are with the Craftsman mowers.


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## djg james

The muffler fell of this one also, so it's pretty loud. Bought new bolts for it but not sure if there's a gasket in there that was lost. I've got two of the older gray Craftsman with geared transmission and I loved it. They can pull my 5x8 trailer with wood in it. But they're both down with steering problems. Too much slop in steering. Poor design. Sector gear slips past the mating gear.


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## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> The muffler fell of this one also, so it's pretty loud. Bought new bolts for it but not sure if there's a gasket in there that was lost. I've got two of the older gray Craftsman with geared transmission and I love. They can pull my 5x8 trailer with wood in it. But they're both down with steering problems. Too much slop in steering. Poor design. Sector gear slips past the mating gear.



I got the mower. Started right up for me. It stalled when I engaged the PTO, and the previous owner said that is the problem. Well I only had 1/2 throttle so no real surprise there. Got it home and repeated the PTO but at full throttle and it worked perfectly. Previous owner said he took it to someone 3 times and they could not fix it. Question is Fix What?

Machines tag says Date Of Manufacture is Aug2018, so it a rather new machine. WhoooHoooo.

I’ll give it a good look over tomorrow when the temps will be in the 60s and I give it a very good bath. I’m thinking this ones going to sell fast and for a good profit.


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## Lanedrew

MontanaResident said:


> Another mower today. Doesn't run, or runs poorly. I expect electrical or carburetor cleaning should fix its problem. Guy was asking $250, but I got him to agree to $150. It is a T1200, like I had bought for $450 last year, cleaned up and sold for $1000. Hopefully I can repeat this. More seed money, and looking to purchase 3 or 4 more like this, this spring and summer. Then I will be looking for some logging/firewood equipment that is to normally to costly for me to consider. A tree pusher would be nice.
> 
> View attachment 979298
> 
> 
> View attachment 979299


Does that mower have the single cylinder Kohler courage engine or the Briggs? The Kohler courage that they put in those cheap mowers like that are junk, I’ve seen too many problems with them to count, and they use 2 cheap plastic camshafts. Genius…


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## djg james

Lanedrew said:


> Does that mower have the single cylinder Kohler courage engine or the Briggs? The Kohler courage that they put in those cheap mowers like that are junk, I’ve seen too many problems with them to count, and they use 2 cheap plastic camshafts. Genius…


Mine is a twin and I think it is the 'Courage' model. Bought the mower specifically because it was a Kohler. Disappointing.


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## MontanaResident

Lanedrew said:


> Does that mower have the single cylinder Kohler courage engine or the Briggs? The Kohler courage that they put in those cheap mowers like that are junk, I’ve seen too many problems with them to count, and they use 2 cheap plastic camshafts. Genius…



I looked but have forgotten. Not a Kohler or I would remember. I have a Kohler Command in the other (Keeper) mower, and its a good one. In the new mower, it didn't sound right and I checked the oil. It was low, so low it didn't register on the dip stick. Topped it off and it sounds much better now.


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## Sportfury70

Lots of Husqvarna riders here, can be found free on CL pretty often. I’ve sold 3 of them so far, as well as a craftsman and an mtd. They are usually a basket case, but after a pressure wash, Amazon spindles and belts, basic tuneup and a new battery I sell them for 500-600. I average about a $100 on parts give or take. Between that and the early winter rush on free snowblowers that ppl can’t get started (always just a gummed you carb) I make decent change for other toys.

I don’t touch the ones that are missing mower decks or are just too far gone. Nonetheless they pop up weekly through the spring and summer. New England is the craziest place for that stuff. Lots of disposable income here I guess.


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## Okie

You can usually find a owners manual for those Craftsman mower on-line and the parts lists and how to replace belts and do adjustments is usually also inside the manual.
I just got through completely re-building the deck and some tractor parts on the first green one shown. Lots of replacement parts on flea bay and Amazon once you come up with a part number.

Just type your model number into the search bar requesting a OWNERS MANUAL, pdf.
Sometimes you will end up at Sears parts link for mowers and the owners manual is pictured for free download. I just save the manual to the computer and review/print only the pages I need. If it a keeper mower I sometimes copy the manuals to a CD or a usb flash drive. (backup for when the computer crashes)


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## MontanaResident

First cleaning done. Shined up like a bright new penny. Started nice and easy, and I took it for a mile ride and it is about perfect.

I'm thinking this is a $1000 mower. Nice little profit for spending $150 and another $50 for gas to go pick it up.

I'll go at it with the pressure washer one more time, and get under the wheel wells and there is still dog poop in the threads. Previous owners ran a kennel. Lots and lots of dogs, and their poop.

And I'll drop the mower deck and sharpen the cutters, and make sure there is no resistance to rotation, that caused it to bog at 1/2 throttle. I'll put another coat of Armorall on the plastics and apply a coat of wax on the paint. All in all, I'm quite happy with this.


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## MontanaResident

I was out testing the mower this morning. Engaging and disengaging the PTO, til finally it failed. The belt came off one of the pulleys. It had actually jumped a guard or was never properly routed. I put the belt back on and did all my tests again, and again, and again, and it seems to be holding. Odd. I already have someone interested in the mower, but I might have to tell them to wait a bit. I'll drop the mower deck and see what is going on, or it might be fixed for good. In my probing the belt routing, it seems that the belt is loose. I might go get a slightly shorter belt, an inch or two might make a real difference.


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## Okie

*Post up a Sears/Craftsman model number and maybe we can help you with that rig.
or better yet a link to download the owners manual????????????*

Some hints without knowing the model number about deck belt coming off.

No need in spending big bucks on a new belt UNLESS YOU definitely find the reason for jumping track because it will just chew up a new belt. 
Seen a guy recently junk out a really nice Cub Cadet that he bought used because it would chew and throw the NEW deck belts he kept installing. One of the deck idler pulley was wrong one from a previous Bubba owner..

When you get the deck off measure the length of the existing belt. I use a cloth upholster tape about 6 ft long, $3 at Wal-mart sewing section and try to get the 1 inch wide one vs 3/4 inch as more user friendly) to get most precise OD length such as this one then look at the owners manual parts list and get the part number and look on flea bay or on-line to see if it has the correct length belt. Used belt may be 1/2 inch longer. I like to use Kevlar belts for my own use, but if you are go to sell just get the correct length regular belt x correct width and length. Also use the tape and check the length of the new belt BEFORE installing.* (I often see new belts now days not the correct length per their specs and can be returned if not used)*
Next check the deck idlers and bearings and spindle pulleys and spindle shafts for wear or anything that might seize after running awhile. I also usually remove the spindle shaft and bearings (leaving the spindle housing on the deck) and pop out the bearing seals and pack with grease then pop the seal back in. On the idlers I have a grease gun vaccinating needle and I pierce the bearing seal on the bottom side and grease. You can then apply a permatex sealant over the little pierced hole if desired. Make sure all belt guides are in proper place especially at the motor pulley and at the idlers on the deck. Sometimes the belt keepers on the deck will become bent and cut into the back side of the belt making it jump track.
The answer to a belt jumping off IS NOT purposely installing a 1-2 inch shorter belt.

link to the type tape measure:


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> *Post up a Sears/Craftsman model number and maybe we can help you with that rig.
> or better yet a link to download the owners manual????????????*
> 
> Some hints without knowing the model number about deck belt coming off.
> 
> No need in spending big bucks on a new belt UNLESS YOU definitely find the reason for jumping track because it will just chew up a new belt.
> Seen a guy recently junk out a really nice Cub Cadet that he bought used because it would chew and throw the NEW deck belts he kept installing. One of the deck idler pulley was wrong one from a previous Bubba owner..
> 
> When you get the deck off measure the length of the existing belt. I use a cloth upholster tape about 6 ft long, $3 at Wal-mart sewing section and try to get the 1 inch wide one vs 3/4 inch as more user friendly) to get most precise OD length such as this one then look at the owners manual parts list and get the part number and look on flea bay or on-line to see if it has the correct length belt. Used belt may be 1/2 inch longer. I like to use Kevlar belts for my own use, but if you are go to sell just get the correct length regular belt x correct width and length. Also use the tape and check the length of the new belt BEFORE installing.* (I often see new belts now days not the correct length per their specs and can be returned if not used)*
> Next check the deck idlers and bearings and spindle pulleys and spindle shafts for wear or anything that might seize after running awhile. I also usually remove the spindle shaft and bearings (leaving the spindle housing on the deck) and pop out the bearing seals and pack with grease then pop the seal back in. On the idlers I have a grease gun vaccinating needle and I pierce the bearing seal on the bottom side and grease. You can then apply a permatex sealant over the little pierced hole if desired. Make sure all belt guides are in proper place especially at the motor pulley and at the idlers on the deck. Sometimes the belt keepers on the deck will become bent and cut into the back side of the belt making it jump track.
> The answer to a belt jumping off IS NOT purposely installing a 1-2 inch shorter belt.
> 
> link to the type tape measure:



I got to thinking about it, and the belt jump off the pulleys when I had the deck at its lowest height. At that height it is almost dragging on the ground. Way way to low for the rocky ground here. Seems like a height for a putting green. On my other mower, there is a screw adjustment that controls the range of the deck adjust-ability. I have it set so there is no adjustment -- its always at max height. I'll test out this theory tomorrow and if that is the case I'll just sell it as is, with the caution of lowering the deck.

In my looking at the deck and its belt and pulleys, it is all in good condition. I saw no chewing of the belt. It might be new.

Basically, I'm looking for problems, because the previous owner said there were problems, and I don't want to sell someone something at top dollar that isn't as good as I can make it. I'm almost there.


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## Okie

This is in the owners manual under ADJUSTMENTS for those type mower:
That mower will have a* depth drop adjustment*. and also a deck leveling adj from side to side.
Also the correct deck drop should be about 2 in from the blade to the floor when at lowest and the rear of blade tip about 1/8 to 1/4 inch higher then the front with the blade point fore and aft when measuring with correct air pressure in the tires. (make sure it has the correct size tires still on the rig. Sometimes prev owners will buy used tires and rims and install different than OEM on the tractor and deck adjustments will be way off the chart and result in belts jumping if they try to change OEM adjustments.
Look in the owners manual. (It states these adjustments)
Also the plastic gauge wheels should be about 1/2 inch off the floor with deck at it's lowest desired position. The mower carries the gauge wheels when on level ground and mowing at the lowest position.
If the rear of the deck is too high tilted where the rear of the blade tip is too high vs the front of the blade tip the front idler pulleys on the deck can get to high of an attack angle and the belt will jump. Also a weak idler pulley spring (or wrong spring) won't keep enough tension on the belt idlers.
Right about the on the dash screw drop adjustment (user friendly).
Your might have the type adj that is only wrench adjustable on the hangers from underneath on each side and controls both the drop and the leveling side to side.


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## Okie

On some of the mowers that has the lift lever with the notched frame that still allow the deck to go too low I've purposely drilled a hole and installed a stop bolt so as the lift lever would not allow the deck to go to low. Decks that do not have a anti scalp roller on the front of the deck will scalp fast if ground is not level. Also some decks do not even have gauge wheels.
If a deck has gauge wheels and no lower limit adjust as to the lowest cutting height the gauge wheels can be set so as to temporary limit the lowest the blades will cut, BUT the plastic type gauge wheels are not designed to carry the weight load of a deck constantly. (and a set of some types of NEW gauge wheels are pricy)


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## 3000 FPS

I have a couple of used mowers that bought on the cheap. One is a Craftsman like the green one you showed at the beginning of this thread. The other one is a John Deere. I have used the crap out of both of these mowers. 
The Craftsman was free and the John Deere was 250. Both are work horses.


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## MontanaResident

3000 FPS said:


> I have a couple of used mowers that bought on the cheap. One is a Craftsman like the green one you showed at the beginning of this thread. The other one is a John Deere. I have used the crap out of both of these mowers.
> The Craftsman was free and the John Deere was 250. Both are work horses.



Yeah the first one is my favorite. A very easy starting engine and is smooth, almost purrs. The front end is sloppy and noticeable when I make sharp turns. There looks to be no way to tighten it up, sans new parts. I finally broke down and bought and installed new tires all around. When it started right up in near freezing temps after sitting for ~6 months I knew the machine was worthy of some additional investment.

I get why these machines are so inexpensive as used machines. They operate in a harsh environment and some mechanical ability goes a long ways in keeping them running. Most people haven't the time, the tools, or patience to fix and keep these machines running.

As I was driving home with the Craftsman a few days ago, I was noticing off the highway several of these machines littering businesses and homes, like trash. People can't store them right, have multiple mowers cause they don't even have the time to go about selling the problematic mower. I'm thinking of doing door knocks and see if people want to sell the wreck abandoned at the side of their house.


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## 3000 FPS

The craftsman when I first got it had been sitting out side in the weather with no protection for about 3 years. I found some bad switches and the steel cable for the mower deck was frozen in place. There was also one tire with a bad split on one side from sitting while it was flat. Like you said it takes a little mechanical ability.

Out here there are a lot of things that can make a tire go flat so I started filling them with that fix a flat in a can. That solved that problem. I also bought one of those tire machines from harbor freight so that I could put inner tubes in some of the tires. Much cheaper than replacing the whole tire.


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## MontanaResident

3000 FPS said:


> The craftsman when I first got it had been sitting out side in the weather with no protection for about 3 years. I found some bad switches and the steel cable for the mower deck was frozen in place. There was also one tire with a bad split on one side from sitting while it was flat. Like you said it takes a little mechanical ability.
> 
> Out here there are a lot of things that can make a tire go flat so I started filling them with that fix a flat in a can. That solved that problem. I also bought one of those tire machines from harbor freight so that I could put inner tubes in some of the tires. Much cheaper than replacing the whole tire.



I'm only 60yo and still use the tire irons I have had since I was a teenager, changing the tires on my motorcycles. I used the tire irons on replacing the 4 on the '98 Craftsman and just about ruined myself. My Mojo was near empty by the time I finished.


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## 3000 FPS

MontanaResident said:


> I'm only 60yo and still use the tire irons I have had since I was a teenager, changing the tires on my motorcycles. I used the tire irons on replacing the 4 on the '98 Craftsman and just about ruined myself. My Mojo was near empty by the time I finished.


I hear ya. I am 71


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## MontanaResident

Buyer is coming on Monday. $1100. And if that falls through another person wants it. $150 -> $1100 in a month, and all did was clean it.


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## djg james

MontanaResident said:


> Buyer is coming on Monday. $1100. And if that falls through another person wants it. $150 -> $1100 in a month, and all did was clean it.


Easier than selling firewood.


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## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Easier than selling firewood.



No Kidding. 4 to 5 cords of wood I would have to cut, split and deliver to make this kind of money.


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## Abbeville TSI

From a Toro/Wheel Horse guy, there are no deals on a Craftsman riding mower!


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## JRM

Abbeville TSI said:


> From a Toro/Wheel Horse guy, there are no deals on a Craftsman riding mower!



You must be talking about the good old days. When a Wheel Horse was made by Wheel Horse.


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## Abbeville TSI

JRM said:


> You must be talking about the good old days. When a Wheel Horse was made by Wheel Horse.


 After Toro bought Wheel Horse they kept the original style garden tractor in the line until 2007, calling it the "Classic". My oldest is a 1975 C-100, the newest is a 1997 314-8.
The Troy Bilt Horse tiller is another long lasting machine. I have a 7 HP Horse I bought new in 1976. I still depend on it in the garden.


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## Okie

MontanaResident said:


> I'm only 60yo and still use the tire irons I have had since I was a teenager, changing the tires on my motorcycles. I used the tire irons on replacing the 4 on the '98 Craftsman and just about ruined myself. My Mojo was near empty by the time I finished.


You say: I used the tire irons on replacing the 4 on the '98 Craftsman and *just about ruined myself. My Mojo was near empty by the time I finished.*

Some of them small tires are really a bugger to break the bead loose especially the deep dish 6 and 8 inch types used on the front.. 
I got out my cutting torch and welder and made several different sizes of rings that fit over the rims, some are made by cutting out the center of a steel rim that just fits over the existing rim. (I can then jack down on the oversize rim to break the bead and even then I sometimes have to just get them under a strain and let them set for couple minutes. 

I have a tire changer that will do the 12 inch and larger if the center hole is 1 1/4 inch or larger.

Usually really a mess when I break one down and it's had fix a flat inside for long time and rim is rusted. Slimed rims can be soaked in water to soften/ loosen the crud and do not rust as much as fix a flat.

Paying someone to add a tube to a old lawn tractor tire can get costly and price of tubes and tires going out of sight. Also lots of inner tubes now days that are no good when new.


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## MontanaResident

Another mower has come on line. It looks like a wreck, and is a Poulan. After today's sale is complete I will see about buying this newly advertised one real cheap.


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## JRM

Abbeville TSI said:


> After Toro bought Wheel Horse they kept the original style garden tractor in the line until 2007, calling it the "Classic". My oldest is a 1975 C-100, the newest is a 1997 314-8.
> The Troy Bilt Horse tiller is another long lasting machine. I have a 7 HP Horse I bought new in 1976. I still depend on it in the garden.


They used to be a quality garden tractor. Even during the early years of Toro ownership they were still good but when they bought into the Alphabet soup lineup quality really tanked. 
I've still got the 210-5 my dad handed down to me when I bought my first house over 20 years ago. It was well aged by then. He bought it new. somewhere there is a picture floating around of me as a wee lad standing on the tunnel in between his legs steering the tractor while he supervised.


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## Okie

I've never seen a Poulan branded riding mower. 
After seeing the picture I suspect that Poulan may have made some Craftsman branded lawn tractors like the Poulan/Craftsman chainsaws, maybe.

If drive very far away I think I would ask for a model number first and see if a owners manual could be found on-line. If no model number available or no owners manual available on-line, finding parts pieces without a model number is more time consuming.

Also if the paper tag is still attached under the seat or on the metal shroud under the seat it's a good idea to write down the model and ser BEFORE hauling the machine. I've seen them paper tags comes off when being hauled. Also if someone ever replaced the seat on some the model number went south with the old seat.

Looks like it may have been stored out of the weather.

Asking price little steep. (could only view the one main picture)


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## JRM

Poulan is part of the MTD Alphabet soup lineup. I can't imagine parts would be tough to come buy, you could even have a wide variety of colors of the same part to choose from


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> Poulan is part of the MTD Alphabet soup lineup. I can't imagine parts would be tough to come buy, you could even have a wide variety of colors of the same part to choose from



A lot of these mowers have common parts. I don't see that as a problem. It is all about making a few coins for my troubles. This is a good distance away, so the time and gas is a consideration. Guy has bought its replacement already, so he is looking to reclaim space and remove the eyesore. OBO says he wants to get rid of it, ASAP.

I have already sent him an email asking the preliminary questions.


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## MontanaResident

Sold the Craftsman last night. Guy even showed up early. Mower cold started perfectly and the guy was very pleased with it loaded it straight into this trailer and drove off.

Now lining up the next. This should be very familiar since I owned an JD LA130 of the same year.


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## Okie

I've got a machine in my tractor salvage the looks like that JD.
No deck or engine but some other parts. Came to me w/o deck or engine.

It still has a nice hood, transaxle, pulleys and steering, maybe gas tank. I'm using the rear and front wheels/tires.
the cushion seat is torn.


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## MontanaResident

I ordered and installed a new starter switch on the '98 mower. It was dying while running and while rolling down the road, and since I had diagnosed the starter of having other symptoms a new one was justified. Turns out the new switch revealed other gremlins. For general info I took the other one apart and could see nothing wrong. My next step was to disconnect all the electrical connections and spray them clean with CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner. Wow! Everything works better, Starting, holding a constant speed, etc. it is just a much improved mower.

I love finding and fixing such things.

The JD L120 owner got back to me, and will send me some pictures. If that looks good, I'm going to buy the JD and begin getting it running, properly, for another resale.


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## Okie

_electrical connections.
I use _
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube​on the terminals of electrical connections with good results.
Really good for lawn tractor ignition switch plugs and interlock switch connections.
I just apply little bit to the female side of the connector and then re-assemble.

Really good to prevent any future rusting of the male/female connections.


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> _electrical connections.
> I use _
> Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube​on the terminals of electrical connections with good results.
> Really good for lawn tractor ignition switch plugs and interlock switch connections.
> I just apply little bit to the female side of the connector and then re-assemble.
> 
> Really good to prevent any future rusting of the male/female connections.



Yes, is a good extra treatment for clean connectors. I have a tube and once this proves to be the "fix" I'll take apart the connectors and apply some dielectric grease. Helps keep moisture out as well as dirt and grime.


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## MontanaResident

Picking up the John Deere today. Sure looks good, but will see what is actually going on with the motor. Might need some simple cleaning of the electrical connections or possibly an ignition module. There isn't to many things it could be. I hope.


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## Sportfury70

Smokin deal on that Deere. I know it’s a box store model, but ppl tend to think the green paint is worth way more than other colors.

Just got this husky for free, broken spindle and it wouldn’t start. Got a spindle coming from eBay, and all it needed to start was a new 15amp ignition fuse. Runs great!

I’ll get it cleaned up and sell my other one. It’s an older LTH150 that runs flawless, but is a bit rougher. Got that one free too.


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## MontanaResident

Sportfury70 said:


> Smokin deal on that Deere. I know it’s a box store model, but ppl tend to think the green paint is worth way more than other colors.
> 
> Just got this husky for free, broken spindle and it wouldn’t start. Got a spindle coming from eBay, and all it needed to start was a new 15amp ignition fuse. Runs great!
> 
> I’ll get it cleaned up and sell my other one. It’s an older LTH150 that runs flawless, but is a bit rougher. Got that one free too.



A fuse?!? Nice deal. Was that from a family member or what?

The guy with the JD sent me some pictures of the motor and it looks like it was taken care of. Not especially clean, but no oil or grease, just farm dirt from normal use.


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## Sportfury70

These things pop up for free pretty regularly this time of year here. This was from my brother in laws neighbor.

Usually they are older or in worse shape, but sometimes they are like this one. Been waiting for a zero turn to pop up, but I have yet to see one.

A month ago or so a Kamodo Joe Egg grill was free for pick up. Came with a house that was just bought and the guy didn’t want it. I was out of town so some lucky bastard got it before I could.


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## Sawyer Rob

I thought I'd show you my little lawn tractor,







And NO, I didn't have to pay too much for it.

SR


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## MontanaResident

Got it home.

Looks pretty good, once you look past the dirt and grime. Supposedly there is no spark at the plug, but the engine does turn over with the nearly dead battery. And it is a V-Twin. The battery charger is doing its thing already. O’Boy! 

The grass bagger was a nice add-on and is in very good condition. Hell the bagger purchased new costs nearly what I paid for the entire package. 

This is going to be a nice profit. 

After cleaning and get running, this should be up on craigslist in a week or less.


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## MontanaResident

Sawyer Rob said:


> I thought I'd show you my little lawn tractor,



Nice. Hopefully what I am doing can continue and I can move towards the bigger more capable tractors that can do real work.


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## djg james

MontanaResident said:


> Sold the Craftsman last night. Guy even showed up early. Mower cold started perfectly and the guy was very pleased with it loaded it straight into this trailer and drove off.
> 
> Now lining up the next. This should be very familiar since I owned an JD LA130 of the same year.
> 
> View attachment 985702


Never seen one go that cheap. Especially a JD.


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## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Never seen one go that cheap. Especially a JD.



I pulled the battery this morning, and is now showing full charge on the trickle charger. Gave the machine a good overall look and it is getting better and better. I'll clean it when the temps warm up, pull all the electrical connectors and give them a good blast of cleaner then air, and then I will know. Do she start or not?


----------



## MontanaResident

We got life. Looks to be running on one cylinder, the right. Left exhaust was cold while the right was building up temperature. Both ignition coils look the same, and share a common wire and there is continuity between them. I didn't actually test for spark, but all signs point to that being the culprit. Brand new spark plugs so someone has been trying to get this running before me. I'll actually test for spark and maybe swap the coils. Could, and probably is the coil, but I'll reset the gap before further diagnosis.

Enough for today. And tomorrow I have a deer to butcher. I'll look at it with fresh eyes Wednesday.

Boy, was this machine dirty. So so much grass loading up the mower deck. My feeling underneath makes me believe I'll be removing the deck and checking for easy spindle rotation and some doing blade sharpening.


----------



## djg james

MontanaResident said:


> ....... And tomorrow I have a deer to butcher.....


Sorry, I'm fixated an off-topic subject. Fresh deer this time of year? Or you had it frozen whole?


----------



## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Sorry, I'm fixated an off-topic subject. Fresh deer this time of year? Or you had it frozen whole?



Typically this time of the year, deer are harvested off the highway. In this case the deer got her neck broken in a fence after getting spooked by a barking dog. Wife thinks this IS/WAS Bambi, and it was given to me as I was close by and willing to get this tragedy out of sight out of mind.


----------



## MontanaResident

Too many hours of daylight left to not address the spark issue. Turns out there is plenty of spark. Wow!

As before there is some backfiring, and with much of the machine apart it is backfire out the carb. I'll remove the valve covers and check clearances and overall condition. If that proves to be good, I'll start cleaning or rebuilding the carburetor. This is turning into a job. 

This could be it -->


----------



## 3000 FPS

Yep, sounds like that could be a possibility. Bent push rod on the exhaust. 
I would not suspect the carb.


----------



## Captain Bruce

Sportfury70 said:


> These things pop up for free pretty regularly this time of year here. This was from my brother in laws neighbor.
> 
> Usually they are older or in worse shape, but sometimes they are like this one. Been waiting for a zero turn to pop up, but I have yet to see one.
> 
> A month ago or so a Kamodo Joe Egg grill was free for pick up. Came with a house that was just bought and the guy didn’t want it. I was out of town so some lucky bastard got it before I could.


What has curb picking old BBQ's and tractors got to do with chainsaws?


----------



## Sportfury70

MontanaResident said:


> Nice. Hopefully what I am doing can continue and I can move towards the bigger more capable tractors that can do real work.


I think I’ve posted this before, but here it is again. I got two Ford 14d tractors for $800 about 4 years ago. Wanted a larger and more capable tractor that ran on diesel. Put all the best parts on the one with power steering, and did a little refinish on the paint. The other I got running reliably and traded for a dual axle trailer. Both came with mower decks and a Deere plow blade. Ended up selling the nice one for $1800 to a collector. Fun and made a real tidy profit!


----------



## Sportfury70

Captain Bruce said:


> What has curb picking old BBQ's and tractors got to do with chainsaws?


It’s fun wrenching on old stuff and getting really good deals? Just chattin with like minded folks here..


----------



## Okie

If the heads are still on the rig I would think about doing a leak down test or if no leak down tester available just inject some air about 15- 30 psi into the spark plug hole and listen for leakage at carb/exhaust while at TDC BEFORE removing a head if the valve lash is correct. (valve lash not too close) When doing such you can also compare one cylinder to the other.
spitting back through the carb and weak on one cylinder on a twin small engine is symptom of intake valve issue.


----------



## JRM

Captain Bruce said:


> What has curb picking old BBQ's and tractors got to do with chainsaws?


Reading the title of the thread certainly helps. I'd expect no less from a self proclaimed leader of the site.....

Dang it Montana now you got me into this. There was an LT1000 sitting out at the road on my way to work. I drove by it almost a whole week telling myself I don't need another project  
Long story short, it's down a blade and a deck belt and the guy says once the pto engages it won't disengage until he shuts the tractor off. Needs a battery. Other than that it seems like a good little tractor and runs well. Curiously it has Briggs 17.5 hp stickers on the side but only has a 15.5 hp engine. 
At any rate, I'm in it for $150. I figure I'll have my teenage son go through it and clean it up and throw some new blades and a belt on and go from there.


----------



## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> *At any rate, I'm in it for $150. I figure I'll have my teenage son go through it and clean it up and throw some new blades and a belt on and go from there.*



Sounds like fun. Get a picture or two up when you get a chance.

I butchered my deer yesterday, and had tenderloins, onions, and rice last night. I'm geared up to check the valve lash today. I'm oscillating between optimism and doom on what I expect to find.


----------



## Okie

MontanaResident said:


> Sounds like fun. Get a picture or two up when you get a chance.
> 
> *I butchered my deer yesterday, and had tenderloins, onions, and rice last night.* I'm geared up to check the valve lash today. I'm oscillating between optimism and doom on what I expect to find.



Seen where your deer was a road kill or hung in fence with a broken neck.

Inflation, gas, groceries keeps going up guess I might start riding a bicycle and patrolling the roadways for road kills myself. Might have to growl off others like a wolf would do, people trying to take my find away from me. Survival of the fittest. (survival mode)
Getting to expensive to drive my old fossil fuel 4x4 and too broke to get a battery operated bicycle or vec.

Brandon says he feels our pain, BUT, BUT, excuses, excuses.

*Be sure and wear your covid mask when at the fuel pumps as a safety concern for your health per the CDC recommendation..

If you do not know why, just ask here*


----------



## grizz55chev

Sawyer Rob said:


> I thought I'd show you my little lawn tractor,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And NO, I didn't have to pay too much for it.
> 
> SR


I love my Wheelhorse, best mower I've ever owned!


----------



## Okie

Sawyer Rob's wheel Horse looks like a Brute.

I've never been around a Wheel Horse tractor.

Sawyer Rob's looks to be the old style wrap the rope around the pulley type for cranking.
Lots of people now days would never get those type up and running.
I've cranked on those old 10 horse Briggs and Gravelys with that type manual rope crank.
The kickback on those types will take finger meat if one not aware of such.


----------



## JRM

I'm pretty sure the B series was made in the early70's. Good little tractors, for sure.


----------



## MontanaResident

As expected. Both rods bent, and the exhaust was completely off its mounts. I just took a rubber mallet and tapped them straight -- Good enough. Right side looks okay. I'll just do an adjustment to bring back to spec. Then we shall see it this was the full problem and the solution.

I don't recall pulling rods before. These are completely unsupported the full length of the rod. Only support is at the ends. Tis no wonder that they can fail like they do. Get a little out of spec and motor's got problems. Now I know.


----------



## Okie

You might want to REVIEW on-line:
What causes Briggs OHV twin engines to bend push rods?

Lot of info about such on-line and is a common complaint and you can do a visual of the head while the valve cover is off.


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> You might want to REVIEW on-line:
> What causes Briggs OHV twin engines to bend push rods?
> 
> Lot of info about such on-line and is a common complaint and you can do a visual of the head while the valve cover is off.



Thanks. I'll partly button it up and look into it before I try and start it. I did set the clearance at the minimum. Perhaps that will help.

As of now I don't believe that adjustment was ever made. The previous owner had no idea, and was possibly negligent in doing maintenance. The machine does have more then 650 hours on it, so it could have been running on borrowed time for some time. Don't feel like calling the previous owner, who I suspect doesn't know much about motors. No Spark. Yeeesh....


----------



## Sawyer Rob

Okie said:


> Sawyer Rob's wheel Horse looks like a Brute.
> 
> I've never been around a Wheel Horse tractor.
> 
> Sawyer Rob's looks to be the old style wrap the rope around the pulley type for cranking.
> Lots of people now days would never get those type up and running.
> I've cranked on those old 10 horse Briggs and Gravelys with that type manual rope crank.
> The kickback on those types will take finger meat if one not aware of such.


 It's electric start, but that wrap around rope, start sure came in handy one day when the batt. was dead!

SR


----------



## grizz55chev

Sawyer Rob said:


> It's electric start, but that wrap around rope, start sure came in handy one day when the batt. was dead!
> 
> SR


Yes, because bump starting takes real determination!


----------



## Okie

Sawyer Rob:

What make and HP engine is that.
Big one cylinder?
Maybe old Tecumseh, Briggs or Wisconsin?


----------



## Sawyer Rob

8hp Kohler, it just doesn't need more hp.

In fact, that deere flywheel is hanging off the front to help keep the front end down.

It has enough traction, that you can pull start it too.

SR


----------



## MontanaResident

After drawing some gas out and comparing it to some fresh gas, some slight discoloration, I drained it, and put in fresh pump gas. Started right up. Runs smooth and quiet. There is some slight barely noticeable surging, but other then that runs like a champ. I put some fuel system cleaner in and will run it a few miles and then decide if I need to do further maintenance on it.

Right now, it feels like it is ready for sale.

I'll likely drop the mowing deck. I am about certain that the some cleaning, lubing and blade sharpening needs to be done.

All in all, tis a good machine.


----------



## MontanaResident

I took it for a good long ride today. Something seems off now. Worse then yesterday. Got it home and the left side exhaust is around 500 degrees, while the right side exhaust was under 300 degrees. 

Kinda pissy out today, but next time it is good to work outside I'll be doing a compression test. Something is not right.


----------



## grizz55chev

MontanaResident said:


> I took it for a good long ride today. Something seems off now. Worse then yesterday. Got it home and the left side exhaust is around 500 degrees, while the right side exhaust was under 300 degrees.
> 
> Kinda pissy out today, but next time it is good to work outside I'll be doing a compression test. Something is not right.


Can't sell it like that, right? Hope it's something quick and obvious. ( and cheap! )


----------



## MontanaResident

grizz55chev said:


> Can't sell it like that, right? Hope it's something quick and obvious. ( and cheap! )



I like this mower. I'm more of a mind to fix it and keep it. I'm prepared to pull the engine and do a complete rebuild, as the rest of the mower is tight. 

Listed is the good running Craftsman.


----------



## Sportfury70

I might have missed it, did you put new plugs in it? The cold side might be misfiring.


----------



## MontanaResident

Sportfury70 said:


> I might have missed it, did you put new plugs in it? The cold side might be misfiring.


Plugs look new. I will swap them if the compression is good.


----------



## Okie

How does it sound when idling?
Is it smooth or a slight miss or just not quite smooth?

If I suspect a cylinder is weak on a twin instead of pulling plug wires to each cylinder one at a time I prefer to GROUND the plug wire and sometimes to do this I have a short length of GM plug wire that I can plug/splice onto the existing plug wire and the cap on the spark plug end is bare so as I can ground it out. The reason I momentarily apply Ground is with a electronic magneto type coil can become damaged from back feed spark if left in open air.

Sometimes you can carefully slide the spark plug boot back on the plug wire so as to expose the tip for grounding.

When I'm grounding the cylinders one at a time I pay attention to the rpm's drop,* the strong cylinder will cause more of a rpm droop.*


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> How does it sound when idling?
> Is it smooth or a slight miss or just not quite smooth?
> 
> If I suspect a cylinder is weak on a twin instead of pulling plug wires to each cylinder one at a time I prefer to GROUND the plug wire and sometimes to do this I have a short length of GM plug wire that I can plug/splice onto the existing plug wire and the cap on the spark plug end is bare so as I can ground it out. The reason I momentarily apply Ground is with a electronic magneto type coil can become damaged from back feed spark if left in open air.
> 
> Sometimes you can carefully slide the spark plug boot back on the plug wire so as to expose the tip for grounding.
> 
> When I'm grounding the cylinders one at a time I pay attention to the rpm's drop,* the strong cylinder will cause more of a rpm droop.*


When the left cylinder was crapped out due to the valve rod, I suspect the right was over worked. The entire machine should have been stored pending the fix. I'll draw a conclusion after the compression test.


----------



## Okie

What is the Model and type of the engine?

Some of them dogs have a dual throat type carb and intake. (one side of carb could be suspect if the dual throat type is why I mention such)

Do you have any idea why the push rods got bent?

*Were they bent on both cylinders and just one?*


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> Do you have any idea why the push rods got bent?
> 
> *Were they bent on both cylinders and just one?*



Motor ran good first day, like crap the second. And yep, the same exhaust valve rod was bent again. It look like the valve guide is sticking out a ways. I'm going to pull the head, and verify. Steel valve guide, aluminum head = bad design.

I'll investigate, but it is looking like, it is a new engine or this machine goes to the scrap yard. Fudge! Double Fudge!!! 

I see on Ebay and Amazon a replacement engine is $900. Is it worth it? I gots to think about it. Might be best to just dump this and take the $300 hit.


----------



## Sportfury70

Metal does funny things when exposed to heat cycles. Even though you tapped the pushrods straight, they will forever be imperfect and prone to bending again. 

Maybe splurge a little more and get some new pushrods and retainers. Shouldn’t be more than $20-$30

If you have the patience, grab new head gaskets too. Pull the heads all together and disassemble so you can lap the valves and inspect the cylinder bores while your at it. Shouldn’t take longer than an afternoon so.

I’m not sure if that engine uses a poly camshaft lobe, but that’s something else that could cause an issue if they get damaged or worn out.


----------



## MontanaResident

Sportfury70 said:


> Metal does funny things when exposed to heat cycles. Even though you tapped the pushrods straight, they will forever be imperfect and prone to bending again.
> 
> Maybe splurge a little more and get some new pushrods and retainers. Shouldn’t be more than $20-$30
> 
> If you have the patience, grab new head gaskets too. Pull the heads all together and disassemble so you can lap the valves and inspect the cylinder bores while your at it. Shouldn’t take longer than an afternoon so.
> 
> I’m not sure if that engine uses a poly camshaft lobe, but that’s something else that could cause an issue if they get damaged or worn out.



I'm going to look into some high heat "loctite/glue" and see if I can tap the valve guide back into its proper position and get it to hold during normal operations. New pushrods are not excluded from a fix. This is all under investigation right now. As far as time goes, I gots lots and lots of that.


----------



## Okie

Most likely cause of push rod bending on a Briggs OHV"

Valve is sticking in the guide. (the push rods are made wimpy enough to bend and maybe not damage other things when a valve sticks) One of the push rods is steel, the other is aluminum.

What causes a valve to stick in a guide? 
overheating due to clogged cooling fins, bad fuel, ethanol gas, rpm's constantly too high, lack of lubrication, running slightly out of time and overheating.

Cure: 
Sometimes just remove the gummy syrup from the INTAKE stem and clean the gas tank and add new non-ethanol gas. Intake usually sticks due to old gas instead of the exhaust valve.)

Replace the heads with know good heads.

Usually won't last if push rods are replaced or straightened without finds the original cause of the valve/valves sticking.

I would probably just go ahead and remove the head that BOTH PUSH RODS WERE BENT AND CLOSELY INSPECT THE GUIDES AND STEMS for cause of sticking.

Completely overhauling the engine with sticking valves is kinda like whipping on a dead horse and throwing good money after bad.

If you want a second or 3rd opinion you might go here register and ask. (mainly a small engine forum site)
Some guys and moderators here *that have walked in your shoes *and they have free service manuals in their library and usually fast responses. Sometimes you have to click on the back arrow ONCE to get past a advertisement to get the forum link.






Professional Power Equipment Technicians & Education Network (PPETEN) • View forum - Technical Discussion Forum







ppeten.com


----------



## MontanaResident

The problem and solution is in reach. 
I could possibly fix this myself, but I have a greater then 50% chance of making the situation worse.

I have a referral to someone that can do the job, and do it right. Good news is that the problem seems to be minimal as there is little else that I can see wrong. 

From what I know, in the picture the value guide is protruding out creating a block and keeping the valve from fully opening, hence the bent rod. It is press fit in and needs to be pressed back in place, and then welded (or some other way) to keep it from moving back out. 

Doesn’t seem that difficult, but I don’t have the tools, nor are my welding skills at all capable of doing fine work. The good news is EVERYTHING else looks fine, except some clean up. Years and years of grime is coating the head and very likely caused the head to over heat.

On a similar good note, I did get my 250V 50A wired up to run my ARC Welder. I'll be welding soon enough, but welding a valve quide is a few welds away (>30 and then some).


----------



## Okie

Good to hear you found the cause of the bent push rods.

Lots of carbon build-up on the piston. Was the engine smoking any when you got the momentary run?

Did you see any of the reasons I posted above as to why when looking at the valve stem and guide as to why the valve hung/stuck in the guide and caused the guide stick to the valve stem and move? (like gummy stuff on the valve stem or valve)
I've seen Automobile heads do that when running on propane or when using ethanol gas in old model vec's. (lead gas kept the stems and guides lubed good, especially the exhaust guides..


----------



## MontanaResident

Nope no smoking at all. And the valves movement in the guide is very smooth. The valves look great including the face and the corresponding head surface. Really other then the carbon build up it all looks great.

One of my referrals passed on doing the work. I've two others that are possibles. The more I think about this I'm becoming more confident I can do this. Tomorrow I play with the welder. I can weld a lip on the guide if I can muster up the confidence to remove the guide.


----------



## Okie

*Edited a mis-print: that should have read I've pinned Valve seats instead of guides*

Just a thought.
Wonder if the guides could be pinned in place on their side. (drill through the aluminum and part way into the guide after the guide has been pressed back into place)

I've staked and used small steel machine screws to stake valve guides *SEATS *on small aluminum block engines in place with very good results.

I'm kinda lucky that I have couple of lawn tractor and small engine junk salvages close by to get salvage prices and parts for small engines and lawn tractors reasonable.
*Main thing is I ALWAYS get a price up front for a part first BEFORE I even go look at their junk.
If I don't like their price I don't waste my time shopping with them.*


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> *Edited a mis-print: that should have read I've pinned Valve seats instead of guides*
> 
> Just a thought.
> Wonder if the guides could be pinned in place on their side. (drill through the aluminum and part way into the guide after the guide has been pressed back into place)
> 
> I've staked and used small steel machine screws to stake valve guides *SEATS *on small aluminum block engines in place with very good results.
> 
> I'm kinda lucky that I have couple of lawn tractor and small engine junk salvages close by to get salvage prices and parts for small engines and lawn tractors reasonable.
> *Main thing is I ALWAYS get a price up front for a part first BEFORE I even go look at their junk.
> If I don't like their price I don't waste my time shopping with them.*



I've thought of a set screw from the side. I'm still considering that. Also red or green loctite after roughing up the guides surface, and then welding. Or a combination of two or all three. It is about getting the guide out with a brass punch, which I need to buy. And can I get the guide back in without a hydraulic press, i.e. using a vice.


----------



## Okie

Since no low priced replacement heads available or donor engine for parts and new heads to expensive for an old engine and to stay away from machine shop or pay someone else to try and they are not going to offer a warranty and you say you have time to piddle:

If you pinned the guide/guides in place you would not have to remove. Just get the guide in correct place and do a drill from the side. (even at a angle, then drill and tap so as the end of the pin just divits into the side of the guide) Take a steel pin from a grease sert and tap into place or similar to the way I do valve seats is I take small steel USUALLY 4-40 machine screws and drill tap the block so as the edge of the screw head holds the steel seat anchored in place. (the pressed in valve seats pop out due to the difference in the expansion rate of the aluminum block and the steel seat)
I do this while the engine is still mounted on the machine usually.

One concern about yours is something has caused (and maybe still causing) the valve stem to seize in the guide with enough friction to actually move the pressed in guide and that is why the wimpy hollow push rods bent. I'm not sure if it's a weak design flaw of the guides in the aluminum heads or another cause???? (like the design issue with the pressed in steel valve seats in aluminum block)
If the push rods had been stronger and not bent, things would have broke and went south fast.

*The Red locktite will usually release when it gets heated.*

I've got some stuff (do not remember the name, and expensive in a small oz bottle) that I tried around valve seats that were coming out that turns to a hard ceramic *and was designed for such around loose valve seats, (*apply before PEENING) around the edge of the seat, but I also seen it fail to securely hold the seats on some engines.


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> I've got some stuff (do not remember the name, and expensive in a small oz bottle) that I tried around valve seats that were coming out that turns to a hard ceramic *and was designed for such around loose valve seats, (*apply before PEENING) around the edge of the seat, but I also seen it fail to securely hold the seats on some engines.



I like the idea of peening. Today's priorities are welding stuff/junk for practice, then clean the head, press/tap the quide into place and then think on this some more.

Looks like a new head is around $150 and change. Since the entire machine is worth a grand, I figure I can spend another $700 to get this fixed and running and still break even. So a new head is Plan B, if I seriously fubar what is currently a "simple" problem to fix, albeit I'm not quite sure what is the best solution.


----------



## Okie

You might try a post at PPETN link I sent you for more GOOD ideas. (for 2nd opinions before you put it on the operating table)

Some of those guys and moderators are into those type engines every day.


----------



## MontanaResident

My referred engine guy from yesterday, who declined, suggested that this was likely to go to a machine shop and an oversized guide might be required. Is there Indy 500 pit mechanics with extra time on their hands. I mean the race is still 6 days away, surely they can fix this little problem during a potty break.  

I'm absolutely sure I stressed that this was a 2003 John Deere Riding Mower. After that I began thinking this is something I need to fix myself.


----------



## MontanaResident

I got the head back. I took it to a local guy who has a little machine shop. He pressed the guide out, scored it, applied red loctite, and then staked/peened it. He said it pushed out simply enough, but went back in requiring a lot more force. I'm thinking it will hold. Guy charged me $20, so an inexpensive attempt at a solution.

I'll start putting the engine back together today. I've some cleanup to do, and I need to do a good job as I don't have a replacement head gasket, but the old one is still intact and looks fine.


----------



## SS396driver

Picked this craftsman up for $250 about a week ago it’s like new needed a belt


----------



## MontanaResident

SS396driver said:


> Picked this craftsman up for $250 about a week ago it’s like new needed a belt



Yup. That's what I'm talking about. $30 belt and the machine can be sold for more then $1000. Easy money!


----------



## Sawyer Rob

MontanaResident said:


> Yup. That's what I'm talking about. $30 belt and the machine can be sold for more then $1000. Easy money!


 Really, they sell that high there?

You "might" get $600. for it here, IF everything works perfect and it looks like new.

SR


----------



## MontanaResident

Sawyer Rob said:


> Really, they sell that high there?
> 
> You "might" get $600. for it here, IF everything works perfect and it looks like new.
> 
> SR



I bought for $150 the same riding mower and sold it a month later for $1100. Just cleaned it up, and made it pretty. Last time I checked riders are limited, need to be ordered, and the price is high compared to pre-pandemic prices.


----------



## Sawyer Rob

I know where there's one right now for 800., it's Kohler powered and looks like it came off the showroom floor, I'm not kidding, it looks new.

It's been sitting there for quite a while, so around here they obviously sell a lot cheaper.

SR


----------



## wrenchit

Okie said:


> What is the Model and type of the engine?
> 
> Some of them dogs have a dual throat type carb and intake. (one side of carb could be suspect if the dual throat type is why I mention such)
> 
> Do you have any idea why the push rods got bent?
> 
> *Were they bent on both cylinders and just one?*


Push rods bent because the head was overheated and the valve guide worked its way out. 90% of the time from mice nest blocking off the air cooling fins , or a bunch of grass plugging them up.
You can try to tap it back in but unless I know the person, I wont do it because it may last years or an hour before it comes out again. The warranty on driving them back in ends when the machine goes past the door of my shop. Its best to just replace the cylinder head and be done with it, while you have the tin covers off clean it out as best you can to eliminate it from happening all over again.


----------



## MontanaResident

wrenchit said:


> Push rods bent because the head was overheated and the valve guide worked its way out. 90% of the time from mice nest blocking off the air cooling fins , or a bunch of grass plugging them up.
> You can try to tap it back in but unless I know the person, I wont do it because it may last years or an hour before it comes out again. The warranty on driving them back in ends when the machine goes past the door of my shop. Its best to just replace the cylinder head and be done with it, while you have the tin covers off clean it out as best you can to eliminate it from happening all over again.



The amount of baked on crude was alarming. Soaking it in a solvent did nothing. I finally had to put a brush on my dremel to remove it after I had scraped and scraped it with a metal file. I'm going to clean up the cylinder today and reassemble the head, then I will take a closer look at the right cylinder and see if I have to do some aggressive cleaning on it also.


----------



## wrenchit

MontanaResident said:


> The amount of baked on crude was alarming. Soaking it in a solvent did nothing. I finally had to put a brush on my dremel to remove it after I had scraped and scraped it with a metal file. I'm going to clean up the cylinder today and reassemble the head, then I will take a closer look at the right cylinder and see if I have to do some aggressive cleaning on it also.


That's great! Usually only one cylinder spits valve guides because it runs the hottest and obstructions cause the damage. I my self pull the tin and clean the fins on every mower I work on. Also, When you set the valve clearance make sure you know how to do it correctly. Simple way is a wooden chop stick. Drop it in the spark plug hole and at Top dead center, MARK IT. rotate the flywheel 1/4 inch and MARK the chopstick again. THIS second mark is what to use to set the valve clearance. What you are doing this for, is allowing for the compression release on the cam. An engine that is set properly, should start on one revaluation and be running. if you have top keep turning it over and over before it starts, the valves are loose. I write the date on the valve cover and every two years I re-adjust the valves. Hope this helps.


----------



## MontanaResident

wrenchit said:


> That's great! Usually only one cylinder spits valve guides because it runs the hottest and obstructions cause the damage. I my self pull the tin and clean the fins on every mower I work on. Also, When you set the valve clearance make sure you know how to do it correctly. Simple way is a wooden chop stick. Drop it in the spark plug hole and at Top dead center, MARK IT. rotate the flywheel 1/4 inch and MARK the chopstick again. THIS second mark is what to use to set the valve clearance. What you are doing this for, is allowing for the compression release on the cam. An engine that is set properly, should start on one revaluation and be running. if you have top keep turning it over and over before it starts, the valves are loose. I write the date on the valve cover and every two years I re-adjust the valves. Hope this helps.



Thanks for the tip. On motorcycles there use to be a mark for where to do the rocker adjustment. Times before this on mowers I was using TDC. 1/4 inch mark makes sense.


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## wrenchit

MontanaResident said:


> Thanks for the tip. On motorcycles there use to be a mark for where to do the rocker adjustment. Times before this on mowers I was using TDC. 1/4 inch mark makes sense.


Glad I could help. Another thing that I use all the time now is nothing but Kohler or Kawasaki engine oil. It has Zink in it and is more durable on high heat air cooled engines. Both are made by the same manufacturer. You can find Kohler at tractor supply, or at any dealer. Wont find it at auto parts stores because if some nitwit puts it in their car, it will poison the catalytic converter. Also flat or "L" head engines all take straight 30 oil, and all overhead valves take 10W30. Most Koehler's use hydraulic lifters. For some strange reason, using Kawasaki or Kohler oil, removes the lifter/tappet clicking on the Briggs engines , so it must be better. I actually found this out by mistake. I am a Master Certified Technician for Briggs and Stratton and get retested on all this stuff every 4 years. It gets old, trust me.


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## MontanaResident

The John Deere started right up. I'll ride it around for a few days, and make sure the fix is solid. If so, then I'll drop the cutting deck and sharpen the blades and get this one on Craigslist. On CL I see similar JDs selling for $1200, and this one of mine comes with a nice grass bagger. $1200 should be easy for this repaired mower.


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## JRM

We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150. The deck would not disengage. Needed new springs and brake arms (not an electric pto model). I didn't know it at the time but it's a 1998 model. You wouldn't know by looking at it. 
I need to look around and see what these things are going for around here.


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## Sportfury70

Good to hear! Another one or two of these under your belt and you can shift up to garden tractors like my 14d, g series kubotas, heavy duty bolens units, etc.

The buy in is a bit more, but they sell for a LOT more too.


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150. The deck would not disengage. Needed new springs and brake arms (not an electric pto model). I didn't know it at the time but it's a 1998 model. You wouldn't know by looking at it.
> I need to look around and see what these things are going for around here.



Very nice. A bit old, but looks like an easy $600 or more. I sold three Craftsmans this past year, but they were all less then 5 years old, and they go for a grand easy. Personally I like the older units. Less safety crap on them. Backing up happens a lot in my yard, and not having to remember to push some silly button is nice.


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## MontanaResident

Sportfury70 said:


> Good to hear! Another one or two of these under your belt and you can shift up to garden tractors like my 14d, g series kubotas, heavy duty bolens units, etc.
> 
> The buy in is a bit more, but they sell for a LOT more too.



I had a line on a Cub Cadet, in perfect exterior condition, but it don’t run. Ad says it popped, and smoked, and now won’t start. Says it might need a new engine, but the seller doesn’t know. Yeah, right. Wanted $500, a little crazy I thought. I’ve offered $200, and we went back and forth a bit. I’m solid at $250, and he’s solid at $300. If it wouldn’t cost me 60 to 70 in gas to go get it, I might do the 300, but with the risk, it doesn’t look like it is going to happen. I might be done, buying, fixing and flipping mowers til the fall. Been fun...


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## MontanaResident

Wow! Just got notice. It's mine for $250.


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## Sportfury70

Nice how stuff works out sometimes, huh?!

Finding a replacement engine shouldn’t be difficult, and selling will be a breeze too as ppl like those cubs a lot.

You gonna take it down and see if maybe you can fix it first?


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## MontanaResident

Sportfury70 said:


> Nice how stuff works out sometimes, huh?!
> 
> Finding a replacement engine shouldn’t be difficult, and selling will be a breeze too as ppl like those cubs a lot.
> 
> You gonna take it down and see if maybe you can fix it first?



I do doubt it needs a new engine. I figure low mileage, gots to be something not all that difficult to fix. I don't relish pulling an engine and slipping in a new piston or getting into the crank case, but I will before purchasing a new engine.

The fact that this is so clean, it will get top dollar after getting after and fixing the problem. I just googled their address, and it is an estate. Gated private lot, with key code -- I'm growing convinced it is going to be something simple. I hope!


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## Okie

JRM wrote:
We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150.* The deck would not disengage. Needed new springs *and brake arms (not an electric pto model). I didn't know it at the time but it's a 1998 model. You wouldn't know by looking at it.

That blade brake design is a common problem with that type mower. the brake pads are wimpy and and spring load into the edge of the deck pulleys and the pulley cut grooves into the pad. 

Some of those were a 6 speed heavy duty gear box. Yours has been taken care of and stored inside.


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## MontanaResident

I pulled out of the deal. I did my research night before, and I got a bad bad feeling. It looks like the Kohler Courage engine is prone for a particular failure. Usually I caulk such things to bad luck, but this problem is/was common, such that Kohler once issued a recall. It might really need an engine, like the owner suggests.

Then last night, the seller told me I should have bought it, as it started right up for him, and it was the transmission belt. What? It went from pop, to smoke, to wont start and then something magical happened and it was just a bad transmission belt and now it runs perfectly.

Something is off. I'm glad not to have gotten involved.


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## Okie

Montana resident was typing his previous post at the same time I was typing this:
I''m doing final work on a Cub Cadet, model LTX1046 on the hood that was given to me with the motor and deck off. (two bad decks) I wished it were the Kohler engine but it was the Briggs* TWIN* Intek type. Kohler is usually a better engine but more expensive to repair.
*Briggs TWIN INTEK engine* dual throat Nikki Carb was bad and a challenge to repair, valve lash out of adjustment and
All the drive belt idlers were bad, the steering pinion jumping gears (due to wrong parts being installed) deck spindle bearings bad, wrong deck idler pulley and tension spring. right front tire leaking air.
I'll have about $100 in parts when done. Was lucky that most all of the parts were still around in buckets. Harder to re-store them when several parts/pieces missing.


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## djg james

Okie said:


> JRM wrote:
> We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150.*....*
> Some of those were a 6 speed heavy duty gear box. Yours has been taken care of and stored inside.


I've held onto two older gray Craftsman because of just that fact. The gearbox. It could pull a half load of a 5x8 trailer of firewood up a hill. My original one had steering problems. The gear would slip out of the sector gear. And I only had a few gears. Bought a year earlier model that had a beefy steering but the deck pulley was horizontal and the belt kept slipping off. I plan on cobbling the two into one, some day.


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> I''m doing final work on a Cub Cadet, model LTX1046 on the hood that was given to me with the motor and deck off. (two bad decks) I wished it were the Kohler engine but it was the *Briggs Intek* type.
> Carb was bad, valve lash out of adjustment and
> All the drive belt idlers were bad, the steering pinion jumping gears (due to wrong parts being installed) deck spindle bearings bad, wrong deck idler pulley and tension spring. right front tire leaking air.
> I'll have about $100 in parts when done. Was lucky that most all of the parts were still around in buckets. Harder to re-store them when several parts/pieces missing.



I had a bad taste in my mouth with the B&S Intek on the John Deere. The guy that did the valve guide repair said that in press fitting the guide back in it was a hell of a lot more force going in then it was in removing it. I fully trust that the fix is going to hold. Now that the engine is running again, it is a nice and smooth sounding engine. I've half a mind to sell the $100 Craftsman and keep this John Deere.


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## djg james

MontanaResident said:


> I pulled out of the deal. I did my research night before, and I got a bad bad feeling. It looks like the Kohler Courage engine is prone for a particular failure....


I've got the same engine on another mower and it knocks badly and leaks oil out the exhaust.


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## Okie

djg james wrote:
I've held onto two older gray Craftsman because of just that fact. *The gearbox*. It could pull a half load of a 5x8 trailer of firewood up a hill. My original one had steering problems.* The gear would slip out of the sector gear. *

Some of them 6 speed manual models also had a really good stout clutch drive belt design. The clutch was spring loaded really stout would really hold good without slipping any at all even with a old drive belt.

Also some of them sectors on some are not user friendly to replace/remove.
I've seen several lawn tractors that the steering gear and the sector gear would slip and new bushing and steering gear *would only temporarily fix *but their main issue was up/down slack in the steering shaft which allowed the steering pinion gear to drop down just enough that it would not en-gauge the sector gear fully due to shims being worn and just wear. (this is the type *where the steering pinion gear mates with the sector gear at an angle from under the sector gear)* Several times I could install shims to shim the steering gear up into the sector fully and get a permanent fix, if all else was ok.


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## djg james

Okie said:


> djg james wrote:
> I've held onto two older gray Craftsman because of just that fact. *The gearbox*. It could pull a half load of a 5x8 trailer of firewood up a hill. My original one had steering problems.* The gear would slip out of the sector gear. *
> 
> Some of them 6 speed manual models also had a really good stout clutch drive belt design. The clutch was spring loaded really stout would really hold good without slipping any at all even with a old drive belt.
> 
> Also some of them sectors on some are not user friendly to replace/remove.
> I've seen several lawn tractors that the steering gear and the sector gear would slip and new bushing and steering gear *would only temporarily fix *but their main issue was up/down slack in the steering shaft which allowed the steering pinion gear to drop down just enough that it would not en-gauge the sector gear fully due to shims being worn and just wear. (this is the type *where the steering pinion gear mates with the sector gear at an angle from under the sector gear)* Several times I could install shims to shim the steering gear up into the sector fully and get a permanent fix, if all else was ok.


Perfect description of my problem. Only the bushing for the pinion gear is mounted a hair too far away from the sector gear. I've change the sector gear three times and it's a PITA. I thought I would elongate the bushings mounting holes, draw it tight and then bolt, washer, nut them tight into place. Up and down hasn't been the problem, I don't think.


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## JRM

Okie said:


> That blade brake design is a common problem with that type mower. the brake pads are wimpy and and spring load into the edge of the deck pulleys and the pulley cut grooves into the pad.
> 
> Some of those were a 6 speed heavy duty gear box. Yours has been taken care of and stored inside.



Even with a new cable/spring assembly to engage the blades and a new spring (mounted on the deck, attached to idler pulley) to disengage the blades it is still slow to disengage. This with new brake arms and bushings. I'm thinking about adding a second spring. 

I also find the decals on this thing odd. They say 17.5hp but the engine is 14.5. I asked the (original) owner if the engine had been replaced, he said no.


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## MontanaResident

And the Saga continues. Jeez Louise!!!

Started right up again, and sounded fine. Very good in-fact. But I wouldn't assume anything and got out the IR Temp Tester, and the Left Cylinder exhaust pipe shot up in temp to over 500 degree, while the Right Cylinder hadn't yet gotten to 100. So back to the drawing board.

I removed the valve cover and that looks okay. No damage done in running the engine for a couple of minutes. On to the compression tests. The left cylinder (the one that was bending the rod) has a compression of 75psi, while the right has 110. Okay not ideal, but shouldn't cause any major issues, right. However, I did notice the Right spark plug wasn't showing much coloration. SO I took the carburetor completely apart. There I saw some rust accumulation in the float bowl, so Aha. I cleaned that up, and it is now shiny clean. I have a nice set of brushes and pokers, (that are specifically for working on small carburetors) that I rimed out all the orifices, and nothing really was bad or even suspiciously bad was learned. I then got out the can of Quick start and started to blast away into all the same orifices, and slowly one started to spray better and better with more and more squirts from the aerosol quick start spray. I'm now thinking I GOT IT. The right cylinder was not getting sufficient gas and the left cylinder was over compensating. Or that is the theory so far. It is all apart, and will remain so for a day, or at least til I feel like working on it more.

I also removed both exhaust pipes looking for any obstructions and that looks good, and they do share the same muffler, so that possibility has been removed. And I checked spark again, a sanity test, and both have strong spark.

Yeesh....

If this wasn't a problem with gas, due to a dirty carb, then I'm going to really be puzzled. @Okie, your thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Before I put it all together again, I'll run the Craftsman and see how its solo exhaust pipe heats up. 100 degrees seems low for a couple of minutes of run time, while 500 seems high. The Craftsman should tell that tale.


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> Even with a new cable/spring assembly to engage the blades and a new spring (mounted on the deck, attached to idler pulley) to disengage the blades it is still slow to disengage. This with new brake arms and bushings. I'm thinking about adding a second spring.
> 
> I also find the decals on this thing odd. They say 17.5hp but the engine is 14.5. I asked the (original) owner if the engine had been replaced, he said no.



Frustrating isn't it. These mowers are cheap, cheaply built. They have a hard life, but seem to run into problems very quickly. This is why I'm buying these so inexpensively. They are just so prone to early failure, and hiring a shop is crazy expensive to have them try and fix the problem(s).


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## JRM

I can't say I've had any frustration to this point but yes they are built very cheap. Not the quality I'm used to wrenching on having had the pleasure of riding around on this beauty the last decade or so.....




At 2k hrs the only failure I've had was the gear box that drives the deck. A rebuild kit with OE bearings and seals cost roughly $75. And one idler which I drilled the rivets out and replaced the bearing so even now it is "serviceable". Everything is greasable, down to the deck pivot bushings.


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## JRM

Also, RE compression testing on these engines. It is hard to get an accurate reading, the cam grind is such that the intake valve is held open a little more than usual at low rpm (cranking speeds) during the compression stroke. That acts as a compression release at low speeds for easier cranking. I'm not sure if Briggs Even publishes minimum #'s for this reason. I do know that if your valves are way out of spec it will cause either low or excessive compression when starting.


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## Smitty Smithsonite

I've got one in here right now that I just finished Friday with the walking valve guide! I had to yank the engine to retrieve a pushrod that departed for the crankcase. 2nd time on the same machine, so I yanked the head and installed a used one. Fixed the oil leaks that caused the original problem - the breather pukes oil all down the front of the engine, and it cokes up to molasses and attracts dirt to the lower part of the head at the exhaust, the hottest part, naturally. Even had brown tinting around the exhaust valve spring - that's how hot this thing got!

I may modify the bad head with a set screw to hold the guide in place, then throw it up for sale. We'll see if I have time.


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## JRM

Hey Smitty, what is the red cage in the 1st pic, to the left?


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## MontanaResident

Smitty Smithsonite said:


> I've got one in here right now that I just finished Friday with the walking valve guide! I had to yank the engine to retrieve a pushrod that departed for the crankcase. 2nd time on the same machine, so I yanked the head and installed a used one. Fixed the oil leaks that caused the original problem - *the breather pukes oil all down the front of the engine*, and it cokes up to molasses and attracts dirt to the lower part of the head at the exhaust, the hottest part, naturally. Even had brown tinting around the exhaust valve spring - that's how hot this thing got!
> 
> I may modify the bad head with a set screw to hold the guide in place, then throw it up for sale. We'll see if I have time.



I'm going to take a good look at the breather. Way back when, street motorcycles use to run a fuel hose from the crankcase to the underside of the bike. Just vent it into the atmosphere, and bypass the carb and combustion chambers.


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## MontanaResident

This makes me feel a little better. I'm growing more confident that the right cylinder is not running. Carb is cleaned, there is no obstructions, spark is good, etc. AND if my carb cleaning fails to fix the problem, there is on Amazon replacement carbs for $30 to $50.  




That sounded really hot to me, but I guess it is normal. What is NOT normal was the right side staying cool and under 100 degrees.


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## Smitty Smithsonite

JRM said:


> Hey Smitty, what is the red cage in the 1st pic, to the left?


That's a powered parachute I'm doing an engine swap on. Powered by a dual ignition Rotax 582. Original has a cracked case, so the owner found a newer engine and decided he wanted to run that. Can't wait to finish that job - that thing is taking up all my shop space!

Here's a pic of my ultralight paramotor (Black cage) next to the powered parachute. The powered parachute is capable of carrying a passenger, and is much, much heavier than the paramotor, which disqualifies it (Along with the passenger seat & 15 gallon fuel capacity) from FAR Part 103 (Ultralight regulations).


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## Smitty Smithsonite

MontanaResident said:


> This makes me feel a little better. I'm growing more confident that the right cylinder is not running. Carb is cleaned, there is no obstructions, spark is good, etc. AND if my carb cleaning fails to fix the problem, there is on Amazon replacement carbs for $30 to $50.
> 
> View attachment 996965
> 
> 
> That sounded really hot to me, but I guess it is normal. What is NOT normal was the right side staying cool and under 100 degrees.


Yeah, at 100°, that's just either occasionally firing once in a blue moon, or is just residual heat from the other cylinder being transferred through the block.

The cylinder head temperature on my 2-stroke 190cc paramotor pictured above on a 90° summer day after a long climbout will nudge 400°F. Thing is cookin'! I back off much over 400° and make a slower climb. They say the engine is good for about 460°, but that's pushing it IMO.


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150. The deck would not disengage. Needed new springs and brake arms (not an electric pto model). I didn't know it at the time but it's a 1998 model. You wouldn't know by looking at it.
> I need to look around and see what these things are going for around here.



The Craftsman is gone. $900 was the final selling price. Guy bought it for his dad who has polio. The father had the exact same machine for more then 20 years, and it seized up on him 4 days ago. This will be a nice replacement for him, as he uses it to get around, as walking is difficult for the guy. I'm happy it is going to someone that really needs it.

Now the John Deere has to get fixed so I can keep the weeds under control, while I find a wreak to purchase and replace this Craftsman. The John Deere has to be sold. It will be worth more then I need for my yard maintenance.


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## MontanaResident

The carburetor is back together. I found a couple things and now the right cylinder runs fine. The entire machine runs fine. But the left cylinder is still running hot. 500 degrees, while the right side is a nice 250 degrees. I spayed the intake manifold, and ran the propane bottle around all possible leak areas -- nothing. Only one thing left is the jets. There are two or them and they are suppose to be of different sizes, but they looked the same to me, so I just popped them in. I'm now grasping at anything that I might be able to do different. So I'll reverse the jets tomorrow, thinking they were wrong and I reinstalled them wrong again.

I'm desperate. I've no F'ing idea what is going on.

I only bought the thing for $300, and I've spent another $20, so no giant lose if I have to eat it. I figure it is still worth $300, but to someone with more mechanical skill then I. Fudge! Double FUDGE!!! I haven't completely given up, but this escapes me. No way I'm replacing the engine, and rebuilding it seems like throwing more money after a loser investment. Triple FUDGE!!!


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## MontanaResident

I've made over 2K this past year in buying, fixing and reselling these mowers, that I am now free and clear to buy a brand new mower. I'm thinking of a Cub Cadet XT1 LT46. F'These mowers. I had my fun, bank my profits, and onto something else, something new.


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## Smitty Smithsonite

I checked the head on my beater, single cylinder Murray today after mowing the hill (Plus rocks and stumps) out back. Was pretty close to 400° after shutting the fuel off, letting it run out of fuel completely (Feeding it choke to get every drop out), stall, then the time it took to grab my infrared thermometer. I'd bet it was 400° or better at full bore with the deck spinning. 500° could just be a matter of lean jetting. I'd bet the 250° is still a misfire of some sort happening on that side. The hot side is running as it should, albeit lean.

If it were me, I'd be comparing compression and leakdown readings from both cylinders, then I'd be checking valve clearance on that cool cylinder. It's either lean jetting on the one hot cylinder, and leaking valves, tight valves, low compression due to worn rings, or and ignition problem on the cool cylinder (If you're certain fueling is right).


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## MontanaResident

Smitty Smithsonite said:


> I checked the head on my beater, single cylinder Murray today after mowing the hill (Plus rocks and stumps) out back. Was pretty close to 400° after shutting the fuel off, letting it run out of fuel completely (Feeding it choke to get every drop out), stall, then the time it took to grab my infrared thermometer. I'd bet it was 400° or better at full bore with the deck spinning. 500° could just be a matter of lean jetting. I'd bet the 250° is still a misfire of some sort happening on that side. The hot side is running as it should, albeit lean.
> 
> If it were me, I'd be comparing compression and leakdown readings from both cylinders, then I'd be checking valve clearance on that cool cylinder. It's either lean jetting on the one hot cylinder, and leaking valves, tight valves, low compression due to worn rings, or and ignition problem on the cool cylinder (If you're certain fueling is right).



I appreciate the comments. I'm now thinking of a new engine. $900 and this would be a keeper. Just not sure of a fit if it wasn't a direct replacement. Seems like Briggs would conform to a set mounting pattern, but I don't know. Putting in a 724cc engine would be very nice and justify the cost....


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## Smitty Smithsonite

I wouldn't give up yet. Usually these kinds of problems are extremely simple to resolve. The hard part is figuring out WHICH problem you're dealing with.


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## MontanaResident

Looks like swapping in a new B&S engine is a simple thing to do.

I called Tractor Supply last night, and they have no Cub Cadets, they cannot be ordered or back ordered. No estimated time til they can get them. Not this summer, not this year, or maybe never. I said, "But, this is America, the United States of America. Are you telling me I cannot buy one tomorrow, and have it delivered free of charge the same day?". "Yup, that's what I'm tell you", she said. LOL!

I'm cutting firewood this morning, then I will start in on the carburetor one more time. Then it will be time to pull then engine in order to buy the correct replacement engine. 22 or 24Hp, 724cc brand new, will be nice.


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## JRM

The way things are going in the world we may all learn the hard way why the Greatest Generation were such hoarders.


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> The way things are going in the world we may all learn the hard way why the Greatest Generation were such hoarders.



People are going to have to learn how to fix things. Tossing 1 or 2 year old stuff and buying new isn't going to fly anymore. Chainsaw users also. Not to long ago, one of my posts/threads was attacked for ways to keep a saw clean. Use it, abuse it, refuse to even clean it, and it is going to be landfill material before you know it.

I'm doing stuff on this John Deere, I've done many many times before, but that was years and years ago. My tools are better and I have time, so it is a bit of fun chasing down these problems and getting them fixed. I just wish I had more space.


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## MontanaResident

MontanaResident said:


> The Craftsman is gone. $900 was the final selling price. Guy bought it for his dad who has polio. The father had the exact same machine for more then 20 years, and it seized up on him 4 days ago. This will be a nice replacement for him, as he uses it to get around, as walking is difficult for the guy. I'm happy it is going to someone that really needs it.
> 
> Now the John Deere has to get fixed so I can keep the weeds under control, while I find a wreak to purchase and replace this Craftsman. The John Deere has to be sold. It will be worth more then I need for my yard maintenance.
> 
> View attachment 997384



Buyer called me the other day. Wanted to know if I wanted his dad's old mower. I had told him how to check for a seized engine, and he got out a wrench and was able to turn it over part ways. Then he hit a solid obstruction and it would not budge at all. A free fixer-upper was tempting, but it sounds like it is seriously damaged, and maybe even more so now that he turned it over by hand. I passed on it. I've got enough to deal with in fixing the John Deere.


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## Okie

Just a hint you might try to check cylinder balance. *(before you give up and throw in the towel at Briggs))*
Slide the spark plug boot back on both spark plugs so as you can ground the spark plug tips while the Briggs Intek is running and have your IR ready.
Ground each individual cylinder at first while the machine is idling and check the rpm drop by ear. The cylinder that drops the rpms most is the stronger cylinder. Ground the left spark plug tip and let it run on just the right cylinder while monitoring the temp then do the opposite. I suspect the cylinder that is the hottest is the lean cylinder, rich on air and lean on gas. Do not pull the spark plug wire off to kill the cylinder, ground the tip.
Pulling the wire can ruin a electronic magneto.

*I'm not saying you have a bad carb,* but them dual throat Nikki's,* one throat is for each cylinder.*
I was given a Briggs Intek recently that was scrapped because no one could get it to run correctly.

When I got to checking the left cylinder was dead, good compression and spark.
I swapped the carb with a old carb and the problem swapped, right cylinder dead, left ok???????????(that told me that both carbs were bad and I was lucky they were opposite side bad) When I went to cleaning the carbs I found both had bad o-rings and could not take two and make one because they were built different at the H jet area. A OEM Nikki was priced around $200 so that was a no go and a OEM complete kit going by the number stamped on the carb casting was expensive.
I bought a $15 China clone carb, installed and got both cylinders running but the carb itself was erratic idling. I could have sent it back to Amazon prime with free shipping but decided to carefully peek inside first.
Removed the clone carb and when I removed the bowl it looked same as one of the other bad Nikki's*,** so I used* the* $15 china clone carb as a kit for one of the bad carbs transferring the completed H jet emulsion tube and it's jets and gaskets to the bad carb and got a good run.*

Also I install paper gaskets (that I make myself) on the plastic intake manifold where it bolts to the head. I do not trust re-using the old rubber gaskets for a good seal. I just leave the old rubber seals in place on the intake manifold but they can be discarded. I think maybe some Nikki carb kits now come with the paper gaskets for this area.


*At least I knew on this twin Intek I had a bad carb issue that was causing the engine to be weak on one cylinder. (not just guessing at the issue now)

My point being is those dual throat Nikki's can cause a INtek engine to do some weird things AND THE O-RINGS SEALS INSIDE HAVE TO BE IN GOOD SHAPE to seal passages, etc. (and they are not all the same internally even though they look same on the outside)*


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## Okie

MontanaResident said:


> Buyer called me the other day. Wanted to know if I wanted his dad's old mower. I had told him how to check for a seized engine, and he got out a wrench and was able to turn it over part ways. Then he hit a solid obstruction and it would not budge at all. A free fixer-upper was tempting, but it sounds like it is seriously damaged, and maybe even more so now that he turned it over by hand. I passed on it. I've got enough to deal with in fixing the John Deere.



If you have room to store (salvage) *them freebies* lawn tractors they really come in handy for spare parts, carbs, starters, or even selling the transaxles and steering parts, especially when You are fixing others up to sell or just doing it as a hobby.
Got to keep in mind though that even a freebie cost's dollars in fuel and time now days just to go retrieve the beast. (getting to where we do have to look a gift horse in the mouth now days)


----------



## MontanaResident

Thanks @Okie

I have submitted the online form with BrandNewEngines.com to see about a replacement engine. I've 3 options, at $795, $849 to $1239. Might not be a bad way to go. I'll still be under what the machine is worth. i.e. I can still sell for a profit, but since the Craftsman is now living elsewhere, this JD might have to be a keeper. As far as I'm concerned -- New Engine = New Mower

I might go back into the carb, but I have pretty much ruled that out by now. The waving the propane bottle at all the suspect air leakage spots tells me Not The Problem. And I do agree that these Nikki Carbs can be fickle.

I might drop the cutting deck, as it is still a mystery to me. If it is crap then that will be another decision variable.


----------



## Okie

Yes about dropping the cub's deck first.
When I'm re-building my own decks: LTX1046VT series machine
Couple hints about what I seen on my recent cub cadet decks:

Them decks have some tough steel, well built. Quite common to see a gauge wheel steel bracket that needs welded while the deck is off and /or the front center tension rod bracket.
Them cadet decks on that type are more user friendly to remove and re-install as compared to several of the Craftsman decks. I just got through going through, taking two 46 inch 2 blade cub cadet decks that look similar to yours and making one. Both of my decks looked the same and would fit under the tractor but the parts were slightly different such as blade length, belt idler diameters different by 1 1/2 inches, one had 5 star spindles vs 6 star. Keep a heads up about such if buying replacement deck parts.
You have be also keep a heads up about blades, 5 star, 6 star types and some are 1 1/2 inches different in lengths with the same model number of machine if replacing blades. I removed the top deck belt pulleys and then just dropped the shaft out the bottom with the blades still on the shafts then removed and repacked the bearings. I had to place one of the spindle shafts in my big blacksmith vise after heating the nut and side hammering on the nut to impact hammer the blade nut off. Sometimes I find if I need both bearings and a spindle shaft I just buy a complete spindle assembly leaving my old spindle housing in place and just transfer the new parts into the old housing that is still on the deck. Doing such keeps me from twisting off old seized bolts and I have my new spindle housing laid back if I ever need one later. The belt spindle pulleys are sometimes stripped on the shaft also. (you have to keep a heads up about their diameter also, sometimes as much as 1 1/2 difference in diameter which will upset the length of the deck belt's tension.
I did see 6 replacement spindle bearings on flea bay at a reasonable price. If anyone ever hit anything solid with a blade the star on the bottom of the spindle shaft will be stripped. Also just because you see grease serts on some of them spindle housing does not really mean the bearings are getting lubed properly. I think the grease inside the housing is just kinda maybe a heat sink. I have a grease gun vaccinating needle that I can use on some of the idler pulley rubber seals *on the bottom side of the idler and then* re-seal the needle hole with permatex gasket maker. going into the bearing seal on the bottom of the idlers reduces chance of water or dirt eventually getting into the needle hole or seal. Do not get any silcone gasket sealer inside of it will ruin the baring. Turns to abrasive sand when it gets heated.

Do keep a heads up and after removing the deck be sure and place the COMBO belt keeper anti rotation bracket bolts/nuts back on securing the electric clutch on the engine shaft. If the clutch is accidently en-gauged or the engine started with the anti-rotation bracket off the clutch will usually be ruined due to the rotation strain on the clutch wires possible ripping the wires from the sealed clutch housing.
Using some type of hoist or cherry picker to hold a deck vertical on saw horses sure makes for re-building them easier.

Also I found a FREE download parts manual on-line more easily than I found the owners manual.
Lots of the repair steps in the owners manual indicates to take the machine to the Cub dealer for repairs, *BUT just go on-line and you tube and lots of Cub Cadet info about that series tractor to save time.*
For example replacing one of the tractor drive idlers requires pulling the whole back off the machine for access to a top securing nut.


----------



## MontanaResident

I do think I got it. The last problem to solve was surging. In taking the carburetor apart a torn, mangled piece of foam dropped on the floor. I discarded it, thinking WTF. Well after thinking about it after reassembling the carb, the Choke plate flopped around a bit. The foam was there to stabilize the choke plate rod. I got a feeling that was the case when it was surging, it steadied out when I moved the choke lever. With the lever off, at operating temp was when it was surging.

I went back into the Carb, and cut out a piece of foam, and slipped an o'ring in place, and now the linkage is solid. No more flopping around, and holds steady while running at all throttle settings.

I'll ride it around for a few days, work on the cutting deck, and get it up for sale.


----------



## MontanaResident

This never ends. It is again back to surging. Last time I was in the carb, the main jets are very loose. The o'rings seem to be shot. I saw a video dealing with the same carb and those jets are suppose to be pressed in and take some force. Carb rebuild kit now on order. Fudge!!!


----------



## MontanaResident

And I got another mower. $80. Doesn't go in reverse, but it start, runs nice and it mows. Fix the Reverse? The thing weighs about nothing and is pushed with ease.


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## JRM

Forrest Gump approved 

It would certainly help with resale. But probably depends on how deep you have to dig to fix it. Did you check all the linkage, confirm it is physically going into reverse?


----------



## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> Forrest Gump approved
> 
> It would certainly help with resale. But probably depends on how deep you have to dig to fix it. Did you check all the linkage, confirm it is physically going into reverse?



I can see the operation of the cables, yet nothing happens. I've to much on my plate to invest much time or effort in to it.


----------



## Okie

MontanaResiden:

*In your post #110 showing the picture of your Cub Cadet and the 20 HP Kohler engine.

Can you send me the EXACT LTX Model from the hood, I see LTX104**?*
*and also the model number from the tractor?*

The reason I'm asking for such is I have a Cub Cadet LTX1046 that looks like that machine with a Briggs Intek and I'm working on the Intek with it off the machine right now and going to have to split open the sump 
AND I have a* comple*te *GOOD *20 Hp Kohler Courage engine with electric clutch not being used at the time and if I had your complete models I can maybe download a electrical diagram and parts list so as I could make the engine swap to my good Kohler engine easier.

My machine with the Briggs Twin Intek is a LTX1046, Model 13VR91AT009.


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> MontanaResiden:
> 
> *In your post #110 showing the picture of your Cub Cadet and the 20 HP Kohler engine.
> 
> Can you send me the EXACT LTX Model from the hood, I see LTX104**?*
> *and also the model number from the tractor?*
> 
> The reason I'm asking for such is I have a Cub Cadet LTX1046 that looks like that machine with a Briggs Intek and I'm working on the Intek with it off the machine right now and going to have to split open the sump
> AND I have a* comple*te *GOOD *20 Hp Kohler Courage engine with electric clutch not being used at the time and if I had your complete models I can maybe download a electrical diagram and parts list so as I could make the engine swap to my good Kohler engine easier.
> 
> My machine with the Briggs Twin Intek is a LTX1046, Model 13VR91AT009.



Thanks but I didn't buy the Cub Cadet. The Courage engine had me back off if. And I'm glad I did, I'm still working on the JD Mower.

And I have major water issues I am also working to resolve. I have no water, but am bringing over buckets of water from the neighbors and washing and bathing in freezing water. Fun times!


----------



## JRM

Water problems are never fun! 
Are you on a well?


----------



## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> Water problems are never fun!
> Are you on a well?



Yup! I didn't have the pressure tank properly pressurize. I didn't know you have to pressurize the tank when it was empty. Got a new switch to install and my frost free hydrant has been leaking for a good bit. Lots of digging, 3' down and wide so I got room to move.


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## davidprivett

let me ask a question/opinion. My daughter called me the other day and said her zero turn husky 2346 23 hp kohler courage. would not turn over it just clicked, so I thought I do not know how old the battery is so we will change it out. When I got there I engage the starter and the start relay clicked loudly and I thought it is not the battery ,felt the relay it was warm , I had put a new starter on it a month ago. Anyway I tryed to rotate the flywheel and it was stuck kinda firmly. I looked at the oil fresh looking and full. Went back to the flywheel and put more force on it and it came loose. I looked at the gas lever and it was set wide open, so I assume that it was turned off at wide open. Do you think that is why it stuck? The cylinders got washed? It was most likely hot mowing a coulpa acres before turn off. ideas?


----------



## MontanaResident

davidprivett said:


> let me ask a question/opinion. My daughter called me the other day and said her zero turn husky 2346 23 hp kohler courage. would not turn over it just clicked, so I thought I do not know how old the battery is so we will change it out. When I got there I engage the starter and the start relay clicked loudly and I thought it is not the battery ,felt the relay it was warm , I had put a new starter on it a month ago. Anyway I tryed to rotate the flywheel and it was stuck kinda firmly. I looked at the oil fresh looking and full. Went back to the flywheel and put more force on it and it came loose. I looked at the gas lever and it was set wide open, so I assume that it was turned off at wide open. Do you think that is why it stuck? The cylinders got washed? It was most likely hot mowing a coulpa acres before turn off. ideas?


Pull the sparks plugs. Turns over with ease? Anything come out? Condition of the plug? Etc.


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## davidprivett

we started it and it seems to be fine ,no strange noises. So I told her to let it idle for a min. before she turns it off, not knowing what else it could help from it happening again . I was just wondering why it stuck.


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## MontanaResident

Still not up to standard so I rebuilt the carb, and it started up just fine. Both exhaust pipes are reading good, right is a laggard in getting to temp. Swapped the coils and it is again surging a bit. I ordered 2 new ignition coils. I'm getting close. Very close.


----------



## MontanaResident

I put the coils in this afternoon. Machine now sounds like new. It purrs. It is now for sale.


----------



## MontanaResident

Lining up to buy another Craftsman tomorrow. The mowers are growing increasingly in scarcity. Deals are drying up, gots to get what I can when they come available.

I got a call from a guy in Glascow, MT yesterday. He might come out later this week to buy the John Deere. A 500+ mile drive. Really really hard to get a mower new from a dealer, and increasingly from anybody anymore.

I've been riding the John Deere about every other day, working the controls, engaging the PTO, just putting the machine thru its paces and it is now a very fine mower. I dropped the mower deck and sharpened the cutting blades yesterday. There is no evidence that they had ever been sharpened before, and this is a 650 hour machine. So dull I cannot believe they cut grass at all. Very very sharp now.

Before and After:


----------



## MontanaResident

I picked up #7 of the year. A very nice condition Craftsman YT3000. Runs perfect. I'll clean it up and get it posted for sale. Can't really see that anything needs fixing. Just start mowing...  

Zero expense in picking it up, as I had a scheduled VA Eye Exam the same morning.


----------



## MontanaResident

Shined up like a new penny. I ran it thru 2.5 to 3 feet of weeds on the side of the road, and it cut it all down like it wasn't even there.

Only question now is which one to keep. The John Deere sure is smooth with the v-twin engine.

With all my profits over this last year I can get a brand new John Deere S170, but no one has them and no one can even tell me when they might even be available.

I stopped in at Home Depot yesterday and they have plenty of zero-turn gas powered mower, which are quite expensive. They look simpler to build and run the exact same engine. I can't help but think the industry is pushing zero-turns on the mower public. Better profits?


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## MontanaResident

The John Deere is gone. Guy talked me down to $1600. I was into it for $400, so not so bad.


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## JRM

I think the zero turns are more available because they are in demand more. I honestly don't know anyone that has put time in on a zero turn that would rather run a lawn tractor. Not one.
But really, it comes down to personal needs. If mowing small yards and the difference in time is minutes, not hours, then who cares.

Eidt: is that an XR in the pic? What year?


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## djg james

You ever work on a Kawasaki (FH680V) engine. The linkage connecting the choke wire to the carb broke. It goes into the hole circled in red on the stock photo. Should be something like the black plastic piece circled in blue. Parts diagram calls for a whole shaft (16041) connected to the linkage, but that's something like $60? should be a jury rig for this small missing plastic part.


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> I think the zero turns are more available because they are in demand more. I honestly don't know anyone that has put time in on a zero turn that would rather run a lawn tractor. Not one.
> But really, it comes down to personal needs. If mowing small yards and the difference in time is minutes, not hours, then who cares.
> 
> Eidt: is that an XR in the pic? What year?




I use my riding mower more for hauling the dump cart, 10*. The zero turns had no hitch mount available.

Maybe better for just only mowing, but I'll stick with the more conventional riding mowers.


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> Eidt: is that an XR in the pic? What year?



350, 1983. I need to sell it. My sciatic nerves don't allow me to start it any more. I got boxes of spare parts too.


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## JRM

Many ZT come with hitches now a days. I've seen universal hitch kits atTractor Supply, too. Not trying to change your mind - just stating they exist. 

I had an 85 XR. Good bike. I've been keeping my eye out for a decent looking dual sport that needs a little wrenching on. I haven't had a bike in years.


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## Bill G

MontanaResident said:


> Shined up like a new penny. I ran it thru 2.5 to 3 feet of weeds on the side of the road, and it cut it all down like it wasn't even there.
> 
> Only question now is which one to keep. The John Deere sure is smooth with the v-twin engine.
> 
> 
> I stopped in at Home Depot yesterday and they have plenty of zero-turn gas powered mower, which are quite expensive. They look simpler to build and run the exact same engine. I can't help but think the industry is pushing zero-turns on the mower public. Better profits?


First I have never seen a zero turn or any mower at a discount store that I would own for my use. With that being said if you run a QUALITY zero turn you will never want to run any other type. I do not enjoy mowing but a quality zero turn.makes it more bearable. Everyone here has good ones as none of us like mowing


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## JRM

djg james said:


> You ever work on a Kawasaki (FH680V) engine. The linkage connecting the choke wire to the carb broke. It goes into the hole circled in red on the stock photo. Should be something like the black plastic piece circled in blue. Parts diagram calls for a whole shaft (16041) connected to the linkage, but that's something like $60? should be a jury rig for this small missing plastic part.
> View attachment 1005804



If you Google throttle linkage bushing you should be able to find something that will work.
Here's an example, I don't know if these are a standard item or if the linkage size varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. 
These do look a little different than what you have pictured. 

Kohler 25-158-11-S Throttle Linkage Bushing (Pack of 2) https://a.co/d/egKMPH1


----------



## JRM

Here ya go James, try this.








John Deere Holder MIU12442


Find John Deere Holder MIU12442 here. Shop for John Deere Holder MIU12442 and 400000 genuine John Deere parts online at Green Farm Parts.




greenfarmparts.com





Shipping is kind of a killer there, I plugged that number in to Amazon and found this.

John Deere MIU12442 Holder https://a.co/d/9xM3IXZ

Of course I'm not 100% sure this is your ticket.....just a buyer beware kind of thing.

Edit: here is the choke shaft assembly for $37, still way more than I would spend for that but it beats the $60 the dealer quoted you....
Kawasaki Genuine 16041-0028 Carburetor Choke Shaft OEM https://a.co/d/7wLrXbC

Double edit : pretty sure this is what your after, and is OEM, dang they're proud of those little buggers!

In the description it says to message them for fitment confirmation. 

Kawasaki 13280-7004 HOLDER https://a.co/d/2Cr4uWG

OK, I'm out!


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> Many ZT come with hitches now a days. I've seen universal hitch kits atTractor Supply, too. Not trying to change your mind - just stating they exist.
> 
> I had an 85 XR. Good bike. I've been keeping my eye out for a decent looking dual sport that needs a little wrenching on. I haven't had a bike in years.



I probably need to ride one. In my mind it seems like the Zero-Turn is ass heavy and loading up a dump cart with split logs would make it even more so. Could it tip the ZT backwards? It sure would from my perspective.


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## JRM

I dont feel they are ass heavy at all. In fact, everytime i have gotten one stuck is because the roller casters sink further than the drive wheels. Part of this is because of the width and subsequent contact patch of the smaller tire. Also, I don't pull a cart with mine so I can't answer to how well they handle. I just see a lot of people using them as such. They also make snow plow mounts for them so I imagine they are probably ok in that aspect too. I'd not try it here due to the amount of snow we get, but I also wouldn't try to plow with a garden tractor for the same reason.


----------



## Okie

*Or can you post up the craftsman model number of your YT3000?*
Reason I ask is I have one that looks exactly like that with a Single cylinder Briggs Intek OHV that I need to piece the tractor and deck back together. Part of the stick on model number on the plastic sticker under the seat on the rear fender pan assembly is not readable so as I can find the correct IPL.
I got it dirt cheap and some of the deck and hanger parts are missing from a previous Bubba flogging the rig.


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## MontanaResident

This has a Kohler engine.


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## Okie

Thanks for the model.
I can use that model for a deck IPL. (the frame is same as mine except for the engines.
Your Kohler engine is the better machine as compared to the Briggs Single cylinder OHV Intek.


----------



## MontanaResident

#7, the excellant condition Craftsman YTS3000, is being sold today. Bought Monday, selling Thursday. Easy $450 profit. All I did was wash it.

I'm now out of mowers. Craigslist is showing junkers or ones over a 100 miles away.

/- edit -/
Guy cancelled on me. Good cause I'm raising the price.


----------



## Okie

Mowers not selling in this neck of the woods.
*Grass and even weeds are brown and dead *due to no rain for several days and over 20 days of over 100F temps.
Been towing a 50 gallon (400 lbs loads) water wagon with my Cub Cadet watering fruit trees and garden.

Came within 2 inchs of a COILED copper head snake chomping on my hand yesterday. Do not really know why it did not strike. I thanked the man upstairs for helping me.


----------



## MontanaResident

One of the secrets to finding good deals on mowers is guessing just how bad people spell or can't form simple sentences.

I suppose that people can blame spell checkers, but only in part? Still read what you wrote. Deer or Deere and never johndeer, riding or rideing. Duh! Crazy....

To bad this ones in California. Looks like it could be a fun project.


----------



## Okie

Some people like the JD's. I can pass on the yeller/grn stuff myself. (spell check did not catch the Yellow mis-spell because it know about Join deer's)
I fully restored a 212 and a 318 and I'm not to fond of the JD's. This 318 requires almost constant TLC. Onan B48 engine with lots of expensive parts.
The 212 has a really good single cylinder Kohler. But belt drive AND AND

I think easier to play with the types you have been flipping..


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> I think easier to play with the types you have been flipping..



Amazing how many have required almost no work at all. The JD was something else. I learned a lot and made some good coin, but I'll try and avoid it in the future. But who knows? I'll see what pops up in the next couple of weeks or a month and decide how deep I want to get with a fixer-upper.

I was thinking of keeping the current Craftsman cause a mower is nice to have around. Now I'm thinking, when I need a mower, I'll buy one, fix it, use it, and flip it. I really only HAVE to mow twice a year, and the ATV can do all the dump cart work, that the tractor does so much better.


----------



## MontanaResident

Now I'm out of mowers. Guy took it off my hands for $1250. 600 profit in a weeks time, and I did nothing but pick it up and wash it.

Check out this one that came up on Craigslist that I hadn't notice before. Not mine, but the price. Wow!




And another one. Price is Wow! Hell, I bought an excellent condition John Deere LA130 for $900 6 years ago. Had I held onto it it would easily sell today for $1500 to 1600.


----------



## djg james

Not meaning to hijack your thread again, but I have a Kohler Series 7000 22 HP twin cylinder on my Craftsman riding mower. The bolts to the muffler fell off. I bought new bolts (4) but I don't know if there's a gasket in between the muffler and the manifold. Any ideas?


----------



## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Not meaning to hijack your thread again, but I have a Kohler Series 7000 22 HP twin cylinder on my Craftsman riding mower. The bolts to the muffler fell off. I bought new bolts (4) but I don't know if there's a gasket in between the muffler and the manifold. Any ideas?


There's Sears parts suppliers online that have parts diagrams from which you use to order parts. I'd put a DIY gasket between them even if it doesn't show on the diagram.


----------



## djg james

MontanaResident said:


> There's Sears parts suppliers online that have parts diagrams from which you use to order parts. I'd put a DIY gasket between them even if it doesn't show on the diagram.


Usually, the engine is listed as one part on those lists. At least that's what I've seen. You have to go to the engine mfg. to find a engine parts list. Which I haven't found.


----------



## cookies

look on this site, if its got a gasket they'll have it in the diagrams for your mower and sell it to you.


https://www.propartsdirect.net/


----------



## JRM

Hey James, did you get your throttle linkage clips sorted out? 




djg james said:


> Not meaning to hijack your thread again, but I have a Kohler Series 7000 22 HP twin cylinder on my Craftsman riding mower. The bolts to the muffler fell off. I bought new bolts (4) but I don't know if there's a gasket in between the muffler and the manifold. Any ideas?



Try this site, if you scroll down they show a few different gaskets. 

"Kohler 7000 Series Gaskets - Jacks Small Engines" https://www.jackssmallengines.com/equipment/kohler/7000-series/gaskets

If you click on one of the gaskets it shows which models it fits. There is also a drop bar above the models to type in your mower model #.


----------



## djg james

JRM said:


> Hey James, did you get your throttle linkage clips sorted out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try this site, if you scroll down they show a few different gaskets.
> 
> "Kohler 7000 Series Gaskets - Jacks Small Engines" https://www.jackssmallengines.com/equipment/kohler/7000-series/gaskets
> 
> If you click on one of the gaskets it shows which models it fits. There is also a drop bar above the models to type in your mower model #.


Yes, I think I did. Haven't ordered it yet though.





Amazon.com : John Deere MIU12442 Holder : Patio, Lawn & Garden


Amazon.com : John Deere MIU12442 Holder : Patio, Lawn & Garden



www.amazon.com





I have to check the exact Model # of my Kohler 7000 series engine, but I think these will work:





Amazon.com : Kohler (2 Pack) 24 041 49-S Replacemnt Exhaust Manifold Gasket # 24 041 49-S-2pk- 2 pack : Patio, Lawn & Garden


Amazon.com : Kohler (2 Pack) 24 041 49-S Replacemnt Exhaust Manifold Gasket # 24 041 49-S-2pk- 2 pack : Patio, Lawn & Garden



www.amazon.com





I'll check today and order both. Will cross reference with Jack's Small Engine first to make sure both are correct.
Thanks


----------



## Okie

Your question about exhaust pipe to head gasket on the exhaust pipe.
Yes they normally have one. I make my own using a old one as a pattern. I have NAPA asbestos gasket material.

Those bolts that fell out can have either a torx head or a allen wrench head 5/16 bolt.
Do not limp wrist them when snugging up. One some of them Kohler mufflers on some tractors the bolts hold the complete load of the muffler and the pipes are made into the muffler and the exhaust system is all one piece.

You might get a jaw drop when your price them two gaskets.


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> Your question about exhaust pipe to head gasket on the exhaust pipe.
> Yes they normally have one. I make my own using a old one as a pattern. I have NAPA asbestos gasket material.
> 
> Those bolts that fell out can have either a torx head or a allen wrench head 5/16 bolt.
> Do not limp wrist them when snugging up. One some of them Kohler mufflers on some tractors the bolts hold the complete load of the muffler and the pipes are made into the muffler and the exhaust system is all one piece.
> 
> You might get a jaw drop when your price them two gaskets.



Yeah, my last fix on my John Deere L120A involved my putting gaskets between the intake manifolds to the cylinder heads. $7 and change from Amazon. There were original o'rings which I kept in place but did not trust them to seal completely. I don't know if they sealed or not, but got fed up with working on the carbs after 3 times. I said the hell with it and bought the expensive gaskets and, well, the machine ran perfectly, so was money well spent.


----------



## Okie

MontanaResident said:


> Yeah, my last fix on my John Deere L120A involved my putting gaskets between the intake manifolds to the cylinder heads. $7 and change from Amazon. There were original o'rings which I kept in place but did not trust them to seal completely. I don't know if they sealed or not, but got fed up with working on the carbs after 3 times. I said the hell with it and bought the expensive gaskets and, well, the machine ran perfectly, so was money well spent.


You said:
There were original o'rings which I kept in place *but did not trust them to seal completely.*

I also started using gaskets over the Nikki o'rings at the carb intake manifold with good results*.* I apply grease to each side of the intake gasket's and they are usually re-useable. *Them intake manifold o rings when used by themselves will be a source of intake manifold air leaks* and engine surging/hunting. (and the Nikki carb get's blamed AGAIN)


----------



## JRM

MontanaResident said:


> Now I'm out of mowers. Guy took it off my hands for $1250. 600 profit in a weeks time, and I did nothing but pick it up and wash it.
> 
> Check out this one that came up on Craigslist that I hadn't notice before. Not mine, but the price. Wow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one. Price is Wow! Hell, I bought an excellent condition John Deere LA130 for $900 6 years ago. Had I held onto it it would easily sell today for $1500 to 1600.
> 
> View attachment 1007154


Holy cow. The one with the bagger for $900 is definitely on the upper end of full retail. Baggers aren't cheap but they're also very model oriented and is hard to sell on their own. 

The bottom one tho, just wow! Your prices are definitely higher than my area.


----------



## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> Holy cow. The one with the bagger for $900 is definitely on the upper end of full retail. Baggers aren't cheap but they're also very model oriented and is hard to sell on their own.
> 
> The bottom one tho, just wow! Your prices are definitely higher than my area.



Yup! I've another mower I am hoping to pick up tomorrow. $895 it was listed yesterday, and today is $695. I'm guessing the guy is tight for cash, or doesn't care about a couple of hundred. It is easily a 12 to 13 hundred dollar mower in todays crazy market.

I did my tally and of the 7 mowers I have bought and sold since this thread was started, I've made (profit) $4420. No small sum of money for me.

I have no visibility in how long this supply demand imbalance will go on, but I plan to take full advantage of it.

It really comes down to peoples ability to diagnose and fix problems. Sadly many cannot and that is where I come in. I fix them up and in selling them list all features and possible issues when asking top dollar. So far this is working. Guy yesterday, didn't attempt to negotiate on price. Just handed me $1250 and drove off.


----------



## MontanaResident

It has now officially become an obsession.

I'm picking up this Craftsman DYT4000 tomorrow morning.  

B&S Intek 724cc engine. I talked with the seller and it all sounds good.


----------



## djg james

Ahhhh $h!t. I've got another problem child. Brother and I both have Yard Machines 121R 31 cc mini cultivators. Neither start. Mine needs another primer bulb which I've located. My Brother's leaks gas through the air intake. So I assume these little carbs have a rubber diaphragm that is cracked. I did a quick search and found several cheap aftermarkets that should fit. But I think the originals were Walbro carbs. Haven't found one yet. Will look tomorrow. These little carbs are becoming a PITA. I'm correct about the cracked diaphragm?


----------



## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Ahhhh $h!t. I've got another problem child. Brother and I both have Yard Machines 121R 31 cc mini cultivators. Neither start. Mine needs another primer bulb which I've located. My Brother's leaks gas through the air intake. So I assume these little carbs have a rubber diaphragm that is cracked. I did a quick search and found several cheap aftermarkets that should fit. But I think the originals were Walbro carbs. Haven't found one yet. Will look tomorrow. These little carbs are becoming a PITA. I'm correct about the cracked diaphragm?



I invested in the set of carb brushes and pics. Probably a good idea to get a set off Amazon and try fixing it along with a kit. Just for the knowledge its worth it. But those carbs are probably very inexpensive, so there is that route to consider.


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## djg james

MontanaResident said:


> I invested in the set of carb brushes and pics. Probably a good idea to get a set off Amazon and try fixing it along with a kit. Just for the knowledge its worth it. But those carbs are probably very inexpensive, so there is that route to consider.


I agree fixing it myself is worth the experience. But my brother is impatient and just wants it fixed. I'm trying to educate myself because there is no reliable place locally to get my saws/mowers worked on. The pressure washer, I working on myself.


----------



## JRM

djg james said:


> Ahhhh $h!t. I've got another problem child. Brother and I both have Yard Machines 121R 31 cc mini cultivators. Neither start. Mine needs another primer bulb which I've located. My Brother's leaks gas through the air intake. So I assume these little carbs have a rubber diaphragm that is cracked. I did a quick search and found several cheap aftermarkets that should fit. But I think the originals were Walbro carbs. Haven't found one yet. Will look tomorrow. These little carbs are becoming a PITA. I'm correct about the cracked diaphragm?



Do they sit for long periods with gas in them? I've not had the greatest luck rebuilding carbs that are corroded from ethanol. Sometimes a replacement is the best solution.....I'd definitely try tearing it down and cleaning it first tho, and maybe throw a rebuild kit at it depending on what things look like inside. Don't be too discouraged if that doesn't fix it is all. 
Freakin ethanol......
Based on limited info it looks like it could be this one, maybe.

"MTD 75304333 Carburetor Assembly - Jacks Small Engines" https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/mtd/75304333


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## Okie

I've had 90% good luck with the replacement HIPA small 2 cycle carbs from amazon. Every once in awhile I get one that won't adjust properly but not often, engine just will not get smooth on the high rpm end. (usually $20 or less) I have Amazon Prime for free shipping.
They usually come as a tune up kit. *You will need the special jet adjusting tool,* sometimes it comes with the kit.* If it does not work send it back free for a refund. *

Yes the ethanol is not a good thing for the carbs and tygon fuel lines. Make a drawing of the fuel line routing connections FIRST especially if it has the external to the carb primer bulb because most generally the fuel LINES will need replaced and may break into pieces as the carb is moved. If a Bubba gets into one first the lines may already be connected wrong, see this quit often.

I like Walbro carbs, but some of the small one just won't come around with a kit.
I suspect little check valves (that are intended to be non-serviceable) buried deep inside has went bad.


----------



## djg james

JRM said:


> Do they sit for long periods with gas in them? I've not had the greatest luck rebuilding carbs that are corroded from ethanol. Sometimes a replacement is the best solution.....I'd definitely try tearing it down and cleaning it first tho, and maybe throw a rebuild kit at it depending on what things look like inside. Don't be too discouraged if that doesn't fix it is all.
> Freakin ethanol......
> Based on limited info it looks like it could be this one, maybe.
> 
> "MTD 75304333 Carburetor Assembly - Jacks Small Engines" https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/mtd/75304333


Yes they sit all Winter with gas in them. Once I get them running, I'll dump the gas and run them dry for Winter storage.


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## Bill G

JRM said:


> Holy cow. The one with the bagger for $900 is definitely on the upper end of full retail. Baggers aren't cheap but they're also very model oriented and is hard to sell on their own.
> 
> The bottom one tho, just wow! Your prices are definitely higher than my area.


They are well out of the realm of possibility here also. No way anyone would give that for those here.


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## djg james

Okie said:


> I've had 90% good luck with the replacement HIPA small 2 cycle carbs from amazon. Every once in awhile I get one that won't adjust properly but not often, engine just will not get smooth on the high rpm end. (usually $20 or less) I have Amazon Prime for free shipping.
> They usually come as a tune up kit. *You will need the special jet adjusting tool,* sometimes it comes with the kit.* If it does not work send it back free for a refund. *
> 
> Yes the ethanol is not a good thing for the carbs and tygon fuel lines. Make a drawing of the fuel line routing connections FIRST especially if it has the external to the carb primer bulb because most generally the fuel LINES will need replaced and may break into pieces as the carb is moved. If a Bubba gets into one first the lines may already be connected wrong, see this quit often.
> 
> I like Walbro carbs, but some of the small one just won't come around with a kit.
> I suspect little check valves (that are intended to be non-serviceable) buried deep inside has went bad.


Thanks about HIPA. I've seen them on amazon. And yes, I'm looking on amazon so I can return it if it doesn't work. Got stuck with one off ebay for my MS170 that didn't work. Bought a Zama? that did.
Hoses and primer bulb have been replaced.


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## Bill G

MontanaResident said:


> One of the secrets to finding good deals on mowers is guessing just how bad people spell or can't form simple sentences.
> 
> I suppose that people can blame spell checkers, but only in part? Still read what you wrote. Deer or Deere and never johndeer, riding or rideing. Duh! Crazy....
> 
> To bad this ones in California. Looks like it could be a fun project.
> 
> View attachment 1006194


That is well overpriced. The 317 was not a good mower when it was new and has not gotten better with age. I had one and was glad to see it go. Those who have worked on them will tell you about the proprietary strangle hold Deere had on engine parts


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## Okie

djg james said:


> Yes they sit all Winter with gas in them. Once I get them running, I'll dump the gas and run them dry for Winter storage.


I have really good luck using the Stihl oil mix gas in my 2 cycles and non-ethanol gas.
I seen a advertisement few years ago (maybe about 5 years back) where the Stihl oil mix leaves a film inside the tank/carb and fuel lines that helps prevent corrosion even after all the fuel has been dumped or consumed out of the carb.
On my 2 cycles using the Stihl oil mix (non-synthetic type oil) if they (2 cycles) are going to be stored for 6-10 months I dump the fuel and run the carb until it runs out of fuel and store in a place that does not get excessively hot.
On my 4 cycle engines, especially small emergency generators I drain all gas from the tank, especially if it's a steel tank, drain the carb bowl or run the engine until the carb starves the engine dead, then add some Auto transmission fluid (ATF) with little bit of non-ethanol gas and send it to the carb and coat the inside of a steel tank. If the carb has a bowl drain I send until I see ATF coming out the carb drain. When ready to operate the eq just add gas and go. If the bowl has a drain I let the new gas flush out some of the ATF before cranking. Works really good for me saving carbs and reducing gas tank corrosion/rusting. I do not use any of the gasoline fuel stabilizers, just ATF and sometimes Marvel Mystery oil from a bulk tank I have.


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## JRM

I'm really fortunate to have a dedicated ethanol free pump at the local gas station down the road from me. I run it in everything that has a small engine and don't have the same problems that I've had to fix on so many other people's equipment. 
I do drain the fuel from everything that sits in the off-season also, as a preventative measure.


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## Bill G

I am in the heart of ethanol country and we have zero issues finding non ethanol gas.


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## MontanaResident

I went to look at another mower yesterday. Before going I wrote asking question and talked with the seller about the mower. He assured me that there were no issues, that the mower was in great condition and specifically was there no surging, among other questions.

Well it surged, and would only run with 1/3 choke on. I pointed this out to him, and he looked me square in the eye and said, "As far as I'm concerned there is nothing wrong". Unbelievable. On top of that the blades were as soft as a babies bottom, and overall the mower was rough looking. The cutting deck looked like it could have some very thin sections with advanced rust.

I tried to negotiate a fairer price, and he refused, saying he could find someone else to pay his asking price. Never came across someone like this, grossly misrepresenting the condition of his machine for sale.

I could have fixed most all of it, but at my cost and efforts and would have been lucky to resell it at what he wanted to sell it to me.

Fudge!!! Double Fudge!!!! Waste of time and gas money.


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## Bill G

Well beauty is in the eye of the beholder


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## MontanaResident

Bill G said:


> Well beauty is in the eye of the beholder



I suppose it is. Were it upside down and on fire, he might still have said, "As far as I'm concerned there is nothing wrong". Are you now a lawyer?


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## MontanaResident

Mower #8 for the year was picked up this morning.

I gave it an initial cleaning and everything works. I'll give it a detail cleaning and fix and adjust everything, get a seat cover, etc and it will be ready to sell. A Craftsman LT1000 with the 656cc Brigg&Stratton V-Twin. 

It was pretty dirty, hence the good price. I wasn't sure if I was looking at a heavy accumulation of dirt or rust. Power washer showed it to be dirt.


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## MontanaResident

I don't think this mower has ever been washed. Third washing with the powerwasher and it is still not to my standards. I need to adjust the clutch, my attempt to fix a slow leak in the left front tire is underway, and I ordered a seat cover. All in all this mower is coming along nicely, and was a good deal.

I discovered that the battery is brand new (July22) and so is the belts, deck spindles and the blades. A bubba mechanic attempted a seat safety switch by-pass. Not sure if I am going to reverse that or what.


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## Okie

I've got one that looks exactly like that 6 speed craftsman that I just restored. Also have another one that looks same except it's Hydrostatic drive and the decks are exactly the same on both rigs. The hydrostatic drive one has a oil burner Briggs twin OHV Intek engine.

When I got the rig I found the carb had been sucking dirt in the breather tube hole bypassing the air filter due to someone leaving the breather hose unplugged from the air box. (dirt/dust going directly into the carb intake throat) It was also very nasty with dust and grass build-up. Some people are just lazy about using little bit of proper TLC on their eq.
You were lucky you go to the rear rims before they rust seized on the axles. Little bit of Anti-seize on the axle shafts is a good thing before re-installing the rims..


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> I've got one that looks exactly like that 6 speed craftsman that I just restored. Also have another one that looks same except it's Hydrostatic drive and the decks are exactly the same on both rigs. The hydrostatic drive one has a oil burner Briggs twin OHV Intek engine.
> 
> When I got the rig I found the carb had been sucking dirt in the breather tube hole bypassing the air filter due to someone leaving the breather hose unplugged from the air box. (dirt/dust going directly into the carb intake throat) It was also very nasty with dust and grass build-up. Some people are just lazy about using little bit of proper TLC on their eq.
> You were lucky you go to the rear rims before they rust seized on the axles. Little bit of Anti-seize on the axle shafts is a good thing before re-installing the rims..


It is turning out to be a very nice mower. I got the leaking tires sidewalls fixed. Still researching the clutch adjustment. Right now a tiny throw and if the idle is at all high it will buck forward and nearly toss me off the seat. Gots to get that fixed, plus the seat cover and it will be ready for craigslist.


----------



## Okie

My Craftsman 917.270930 that looks like yours also has the clutch that will pop your neck also.
If in 4rh gear and up it will pull the front wheels off the ground If engine speed is at 1/2 throttle and up.

When I first got the really nice clean looking mower/tractor, seat look new, a Bubba had taken the really clean looking Briggs twin 461707 engine apart, reported to crank fast but not start. Both heads, magneto, carb off the engine and Bubba was trying to get the flywheel off when they gave up. At least Bubba had all the parts and pieces in a old ice chest.
He gave me the rig due to him being sick of the machine as barter for me repairing his air compressor.

I put the engine back together and it had a weak spark, $20 replacement magneto and ran like new. Starts really fast, like new. The carb even looked new. Mower had apparently been stored inside by the previous owner and had TLC, but Bubba was really inflicting pain on the rig and losing ground fast.

Installed the low hours deck after packing the spindle bearings and sharpening the blades and put to test as A ok, except the blade brakes not working.

The blade brakes are the wimpy type on this one, finally got them to braking.

I have not looked at the neck popping clutch. Drive belt looks new. 
Was kinda hoping the motion drive belt would wear in for slippage but not yet.
All the safety Interlocks work as intended.
Probably place it for sale next year.


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> My Craftsman 917.270930 that looks like yours also has the clutch that will pop your neck also.
> If in 4rh gear and up it will pull the front wheels off the ground If engine speed is at 1/2 throttle and up.
> 
> When I first got the really nice clean looking mower/tractor, seat look new, a Bubba had taken the really clean looking Briggs twin 461707 engine apart, reported to crank fast but not start. Both heads, magneto, carb off the engine and Bubba was trying to get the flywheel off when they gave up. At least Bubba had all the parts and pieces in a old ice chest.
> He gave me the rig due to him being sick of the machine as barter for me repairing his air compressor.
> 
> I put the engine back together and it had a weak spark, $20 replacement magneto and ran like new. Starts really fast, like new. The carb even looked new. Mower had apparently been stored inside by the previous owner and had TLC, but Bubba was really inflicting pain on the rig and losing ground fast.
> 
> Installed the low hours deck after packing the spindle bearings and sharpening the blades and put to test as A ok, except the blade brakes not working.
> 
> The blade brakes are the wimpy type on this one, finally got them to braking.
> 
> I have not looked at the neck popping clutch. Drive belt looks new.
> Was kinda hoping the motion drive belt would wear in for slippage but not yet.
> All the safety Interlocks work as intended.
> Probably place it for sale next year.



Probably not correct, but from what I can tell the brake and clutch are one and the same. Doesn't seem likely, but I'm going to remove some spring tension from the brake mechanism and see if that will slacken up the throw on the "clutch". It might also be as you hinted, that the belt, being new, is real grabby, and maybe just needs to wear in a little. I've probably ridden the machine a few miles now, but no improvement in its lurching forward and attempting to throw me off the seat.


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## Okie

Mine does the same: (really have to let the clutch out slow and grabs all at once. Really a neck popper.* (mtd could possibly be liable for causing the OP to spill a hot cut of coffee in their crotch and whip lash)
I suspect mtd needs one of these for this clutch*

I have not dug into this one.
*Post up the results of your findings and might save me some wrestling with this one.*
I briefly looked at the IPL's and owners manual and seen no mention of clutch adjustments, just brake adjustments.


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## Okie

Did you get the grabbing clutch figured out????


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> Sis you get the grabbing clutch figured out????



Not yet. Soon though. Cool weather is here for a few days so it is in the plans to finish it up and begin the selling process.


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## MontanaResident

Here is what is happening in my area. Riding Mower Inflation!

This guy is asking more for his mower then the Big Box Stores. The fact that the big box stores don't have any, and haven't had any for most of the year, this guy may get his asking price.









John Deere S 140 riding lawn mower - farm & garden - by owner - sale


John Deere S 140 riding lawn mower. This is a 2022 John Deere S140 riding lawn tractor it is brand new has 1/10 of an hour on it has never been used $2900 call 40six-36nine-014three



missoula.craigslist.org


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## MontanaResident

I backed out the brake tensioner nut, thinking that might slacken the clutch engagement. Will it work? Don't know yet. The mower is up on jacks and it has been raining something fierce all morning and is likely to continue into this evening. Lots of Thunder&Lighting. Quite the show.


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## Okie

MontanaResident said:


> I backed out the brake tensioner nut, thinking that might slacken the clutch engagement. Will it work? Don't know yet. The mower is up on jacks and it has been raining something fierce all morning and is likely to continue into this evening. Lots of Thunder&Lighting. Quite the show.



I briefly also noticed that brake spring and the brake and clutch rod all the same rod with the spring on the rod with jammed locknuts for the brake adjust ONLY.
The brake on this one will slide the rear tires if going fast and thromp on the brake, then just slightly release the brake/clutch pedal and it pops the neck and just going from memory as the brake is let off that same rod engauges the transaxle on the pivot lever on side of transaxle. (therefore no clutch adjustment other than weaken the spring or hope for some eventual motion drive belt slippage.

Might be a critical adjustment between having a brake and getting a softer clutch. When I seen only brake adjustment mentioned in the manual and no clutch adjustment I was also working on another mower and never went back to try and back off on the spring or find a weaker spring or ??????????


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> I briefly also noticed that brake spring and the brake and clutch rod all the same rod with the spring on the rod with jammed locknuts for the brake adjust ONLY.
> The brake on this one will slide the rear tires if going fast and thromp on the brake, then just slightly release the brake/clutch pedal and it pops the neck and just going from memory as the brake is let off that same rod engauges the transaxle on the pivot lever on side of transaxle. (therefore no clutch adjustment other than weaken the spring or hope for some eventual motion drive belt slippage.
> 
> Might be a critical adjustment between having a brake and getting a softer clutch. When I seen only brake adjustment mentioned in the manual and no clutch adjustment I was also working on another mower and never went back to try and back off on the spring or find a weaker spring or ??????????


Yeah, I'm being lazy on this mower. Selling season is about over. Also this mower is really nice. Best of the bunch. Haven't had but one other that was a V-Twin (the John Deere), and this one is in excellent condition, engine wise.

Leaking tire is pissing me off. Might have to order a couple of fronts. Looks like this one maybe a keeper. I'll put it to work in helping me get my firewood ready for winter, then come spring time, I'll see about what to do with this mower.


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## Okie

Slow leaking dry cracked lawn tractor tires. I quit using slime in my own lawn tractors.
They would usually still leak when the mower is stored for awhile and then a mess cleaning the tire and rim to install a tube after slime is used. Fix a flat will rust rims fast..
One good straight stem inner tube 15x6x6 such as Carlisle is pushing the $20 area. Lots of inner tubes now days that are not any good mostly the lesser priced China versions.
I repair my own tires, installing tubes and fixing flats. Just got through installing two 20x10x8 and one 15x6x6 on one mower to stop leaks. tires had good thread, just dry cracked due to previous owner letting the tires set on ground flat. Almost $60 not counting the sweat labor of installing.

Them 6 and 8 inch tires can be a bugger to break down the bead for installing a tube on the deep dish rims.
I made my own break down tools for 4 inch to 14 inch rims.


----------



## djg james

Okie said:


> ....
> I made my own break down tools for 4 inch to 14 inch rims.


I'd like to see them.


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> Slow leaking dry cracked lawn tractor tires. I quit using slime in my own lawn tractors.
> They would usually still leak when the mower is stored for awhile and then a mess cleaning the tire and rim to install a tube after slime is used. Fix a flat will rust rims fast..
> One good straight stem inner tube 15x6x6 such as Carlisle is pushing the $20 area. Lots of inner tubes now days that are not any good mostly the lesser priced China versions.
> I repair my own tires, installing tubes and fixing flats. Just got through installing two 20x10x8 and one 15x6x6 on one mower to stop leaks. tires had good thread, just dry cracked due to previous owner letting the tires set on ground flat. Almost $60 not counting the sweat labor of installing.
> 
> Them 6 and 8 inch tires can be a bugger to break down the bead for installing a tube on the deep dish rims.
> I made my own break down tools for 4 inch to 14 inch rims.



Tires are inexpensive enough, but installing them can be a pain. Did all four on another machine back in May(?). No fun.



https://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Turf-Saver-Lawn-Garden/dp/B005O5Y3QI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3V4P23BWJTGYN&keywords=tire+15x6x6&qid=1661433977&sprefix=tire+%2Caps%2C281&sr=8-3


----------



## Okie

djg james said:


> I'd like to see them.


Just a hint. About making bead breakers for small lawn tractor tires/rims 4 inch to 12 inch area.

I used my cutting torch and welder and sacrificed some donor rims (cut out the center of the donor rim, for example a 8 inch deep dish rim to break down a 6 inch rim tire, 10 inch rim for a 8 inch rim tire. Welded some 1 inch heavy wall square tubing and 1/2 inch plate on top of the opened up rim and use a jack to press this down down against the smaller tire rim. It just fits over the edge of the tires rim so as to press on the tire. 
On some of the small rims that are of the deeper type (tire needed to be pressed further to break the bead I took some 3/8 steel plate a cut the circle just little larger than the rim/tire and welded square tubing and 3/8 plate on top of the cutout circle.
On the tough ones I sometimes have to apply little bit of ATF around the rim/tire while in the press and just let it set about couple minutes for the bead to break down. Also sometimes have to massage the tire with a large hammer while in the press if the rim is rusty inside and the tire is old and cold.

I also have a air/electric (old model) John Beam that I can use on 12inch through 16 inch rims if the center hole of the rim is 1 1/4 inch dia or more so as to mount to the machine.

Not a fun job, especially when the rim is found to be rusty inside and needs cleaned/re-painted then new tube or tire installed. (and I only do the tire flat fixing for myself. (so I can have more money to spend on my hunting and fishing equipment)

*"Hunting and fishing is not a matter of life and death, It's more important than that"*


----------



## Okie

MontanaResident said:


> Tires are inexpensive enough, but installing them can be a pain. Did all four on another machine back in May(?). No fun.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Turf-Saver-Lawn-Garden/dp/B005O5Y3QI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3V4P23BWJTGYN&keywords=tire+15x6x6&qid=1661433977&sprefix=tire+%2Caps%2C281&sr=8-3


Right about better off cost wise/ labor wise just to install new tires vs inner tubes. Old tires that are dry cracked or have thorns will sometimes just ruin new tubes fast.
AND Carlisle is a good brand of both tires and tubes.

I can sometimes find 12 inch ATV tires for less price than Lawn tractor tires. (but usually have to settle for a aggressive tread pattern)


----------



## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> Right about better off cost wise/ labor wise just to install new tires vs inner tubes. Old tires that are dry cracked or have thorns will sometimes just ruin new tubes fast.
> AND Carlisle is a good brand of both tires and tubes.
> 
> I can sometimes find 12 inch ATV tires for less price than Lawn tractor tires. (but usually have to settle for a aggressive tread pattern)



Yeah, and here is Walmarts price of 2 for $34. The Hi-Run is a brand I have used before, not junk... --



Robot or human?


----------



## SS396driver

Was going to sell our old lawn tractor but I ended up giving it to a kid my neighbor knows . He works 40 hours a week and does a side hustle of mowing lawns he is using a push mower now. He does this to pay for community college. He doesn't want debt so he works his butt off . So I gave him the tractor should make his life easier .


----------



## MontanaResident

Seems that the grabby clutch symptoms are going away. Or maybe my foot work is better. IDK.

It is now up for sale. Wrong time of the year to be selling a rider, but who knows. I haven't bought a mower yet that I wasn't willing to keep as my own. Maybe it will sell next spring, or maybe the market's supply and demand will stabilize and this Craftsman will be my keeper.

I've been putting it to work, so lots of driving it around with the dump cart.


----------



## Okie

*Thanks for the come back info.*

Mine looks as clean or cleaner than that one but has a really good original L-head Briggs twin cylinder. The engine is like new. starts easy and fast.

I'll loosen the brake spring off on this one and pull my dump cart around with heavy loads and see if it loosens up. 
Yes after few neck poppers the clutch foot work is a heads up. It's the surprise neck pop that is aggravating. (forgot to let the clutch out slow)
A new Operator will catch on fast to the whip lash clutch.


----------



## grizz55chev

MontanaResident said:


> Seems that the grabby clutch symptoms are going away. Or maybe my foot work is better. IDK.
> 
> It is now up for sale. Wrong time of the year to be selling a rider, but who knows. I haven't bought a mower yet that I wasn't willing to keep as my own. Maybe it will sell next spring, or maybe the market's supply and demand will stabilize and this Craftsman will be my keeper.
> 
> I've been putting it to work, so lots of driving it around with the dump cart.
> 
> View attachment 1013480
> 
> 
> View attachment 1013484
> 
> 
> View attachment 1013487


Just fixed a major oil leak on this model for a friend. Turned out to be a blown gasket where the engine splits, a relatively easy fix. He got it for $200, and it runs like new now, smokes a little on first startup, so probably a valve seal, gonna have him run it for a while and see if it clears up. Nice mowers, and parts are easy to find. When I split the motor, I found half of a push rod in the sump!


----------



## Okie

Keep a heads up if it's a Briggs Intek with a momentary smoke on start up. If it gets worse and a running issue they have a habit of a leaking head gasket usually going into the push rod galley. Sometimes can even see such with the valve cover off doing a leak down test while looking into the push rod galley.

Leaking sump gaskets is depressing to see when still on the tractor. Also attracts lots of dirt and grass clipping on a mower engine. No need in trying to snug up the bolts once they start leaking. Just a waste of time and oil.

I started using K&W copper plus or equiv permatex gasket sealer to the crankcase side to securely GLUE the paper gasket in place then a thin coat of Yamaha Bond on the sump side of the gasket so as to make sure the thin paper gasket stays in place as it ages.

Using the Yamaha Bond allows me to wiggle the sump little bit W/O distorting the paper gasket when installing the sump. I let the sealers dry for about 24 hours before adding oil.

Even more depressing to see a sump gasket leaking again after awhile. I've seen them only leak hot oil. (no leak when the oil is cold)

Also keep a heads up, some of them crankshaft seals now days do not even have the spring inside the lip. (China type crankshaft seals usually)


----------



## grizz55chev

Okie said:


> Keep a heads up if it's a Briggs Intek with a momentary smoke on start up. If it gets worse and a running issue they have a habit of a leaking head gasket usually going into the push rod galley. Sometimes can even see such with the valve cover off doing a leak down test while looking into the push rod galley.
> 
> Leaking sump gaskets is depressing to see when still on the tractor. Also attracts lots of dirt and grass clipping on a mower engine. No need in trying to snug up the bolts once they start leaking. Just a waste of time and oil.
> 
> I started using K&W copper plus or equiv permatex gasket sealer to the crankcase side to securely GLUE the paper gasket in place then a thin coat of Yamaha Bond on the sump side of the gasket so as to make sure the thin paper gasket stays in place as it ages.
> 
> Using the Yamaha Bond allows me to wiggle the sump little bit W/O distorting the paper gasket when installing the sump. I let the sealers dry for about 24 hours before adding oil.
> 
> Even more depressing to see a sump gasket leaking again after awhile. I've seen them only leak hot oil. (no leak when the oil is cold)
> 
> Also keep a heads up, some of them crankshaft seals now days do not even have the spring inside the lip. (China type crankshaft seals usually)


I found it really easy to work on, had the motor out and on the bench in no time, despise all the oil slathered all over everything. I usexthe Right stuff to seal the sump gasket, worked like a charm. Good to know about the head gasket, I'll let him know to keep an eye on it. The thing runs well, never even touched the carb, fires right up and good throttle response, don't fix what ain't broke! I did service the mower deck while I had it down, nice machines!


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## Okie

Oil all over the work bench:

Something I've found really handy* to help keep the work bench top from getting oily and greasy when flogging chainsaws and small engines is a large metal tray, like a cookie tray.* Has about 1/2 inch sides. Look at wal mart for the different sizes.
OR
for small engines I use the round plastic lid from a molasses tub (like the ranchers use as feeder for their cattle) These plastic lids are tough, have about a 1 inch lip around the edge and will catch oil grease and also any small objects that want to get to the floor that you did not see fall off the engine plus hold any tools within reach w/o have to look for such.
I just get them molasses tubs (approx 25 gallon tubs with lids) given to me by ranchers and I also use the tubs with lids to store small engines and other parts outside the shop. They are waterproof when the lid is secured. I'm referring to the really heavy made black plastic type. Really handy when placed the the waterproof tub outside the shop to store engines waiting on parts. (all the parts in one place off the work bench and out of the shop)

The right stuff sealer you mentioned plus others such as Yamaha Bond, K&W, Permatex copper Plus gasket maker storage of un used tubes. I've got an old working fridge in the shop and I store gaskets makers/sealers, etc in the fridge placed in zip lock bags so as the un used portions will not dry out in the tubes/cans. (extends the storage life of the gasket sealers)


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## MontanaResident

grizz55chev said:


> I found it really easy to work on, had the motor out and on the bench in no time, despise all the oil slathered all over everything. I usexthe Right stuff to seal the sump gasket, worked like a charm. Good to know about the head gasket, I'll let him know to keep an eye on it. The thing runs well, never even touched the carb, fires right up and good throttle response, don't fix what ain't broke! I did service the mower deck while I had it down, nice machines!



Did you have to remove the drive pulley to pull the engine? I don't have a good way to lift the front of the machine beyond a few or more inches. I've seen plenty of videos where the pulley is taken off before yanking the engine, and they sometimes don't come off easy, requiring an impact hammer. Not sure about fussing under the machine with limited space to work with power tools underneath.


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## grizz55chev

MontanaResident said:


> Did you have to remove the drive pulley to pull the engine? I don't have a good way to lift the front of the machine beyond a few or more inches. I've seen plenty of videos where the pulley is taken off before yanking the engine, and they sometimes don't come off easy, requiring an impact hammer. Not sure about fussing under the machine with limited space to work with power tools underneath.


Yes, the pulley did have to come off, no, it wasn't stuck, and I just lifted it to one side and proped it up with 2x4s. It's not rally that heavy. I did drop the mower deck first, again, not that hard, and it was impacted with old clippings and needed service anyway. It's been a month or so, but if memory serves, I pulled the spark plug and stuffed rope into the cylinder to get a good bite on the bolt holding the pulley.


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## Okie

You say:
* I don't have a good way to lift the front of the machine beyond a few or more inches.* 

Couple ideas:
*To make life little easier when working under the lawn tractors.*
I first started out with floor jacks and safety stands, few times under a shade tree with ratchet cable winches and a truck bed mat to lay on. Also have a large A frame hoist outside with a 5 ton chain hoist but prefer to work inside shop over a concrete floor and piece of old low nap carpet on the floor especially when weather is bad.

For inside shop:
I now have a little 1 ton rated chain hoist in the shop and the support for the hoist is a 1 1/2 inch schedule 40 pipe about 12ft long across several of the ceiling joists. I also have a ratchet cable hoist to connect to the machine as a safety back-up after the lawn tractor is lifted and safety stands as a back-up safety. I work by myself so I work safely so as I'm not going to be supporting any falling machinery. most generally I have to remove the tractors hood and then can hoist the machine by looping a lifting chain around the front axle or by attaching to the front frame. I do not use chain hooks, I bolt the chain securely to the frame or bolted chain loops. hoist lifting makes things such as removing and installing decks and removing engines more user friendly for me.

I can easily hoist a lawn tractor straight up vertically if desired so as to get at the under side with impact drivers, both electric and air type. I've tried cherry pickers and lawn tractor floor jacks but their support arms are not user friendly to work around. I can also lift the transaxle end of the tractor with the chain hoist if desired.

The PTO pulley most generally has to be removed before removing the engine from the frame and I've seen them pulleys rusted on severely and had to sacrifice the pulley to get them off. I have a large gear type bearing puller that I can use to remove the rusted on ones. Sometimes heat cool is required.
I clean the shaft good and apply anti-seize before re-installing PTO pulleys and the slip on type rear rims.. When impact tightening or removing on or off I use the torque limiting extension drivers.


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## MontanaResident

Really really the wrong time of the year to be selling a mower. My latest cannot even get a single hit, and I've been moving the price all around to no effect.

That's not stopping me though, and I've got another coming soon. A free one. Guys dealing with a HUGE amount of stuff that has to be hauled out, due to a death. Guy says something is wrong with it, but has no idea what is the problem. My thought is it don't run for all the usual reasons, and the guy just doesn't have any time to look into it. Hell it might just be out of gas.


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## Okie

Same in this neck of the woods about selling mowers.

Severe drought, grass not growing plus cooler weather and hunting season coming.
People thinking about getting wood, gas and groceries.

Time to get them mowers ready in spare time for next season. (and keep the batteries trickle charged)


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> Same in this neck of the woods about selling mowers.
> 
> Severe drought, grass not growing plus cooler weather and hunting season coming.
> People thinking about getting wood, gas and groceries.
> 
> Time to get them mowers ready in spare time for next season. (and keep the batteries trickle charged)



It was a great spring and summer for flipping mowers. I've no idea if supply and demand will get to parity next year, and upset my cash boon. The mower I'm sitting on now is getting better and better. Although it has developed an interesting problem. The Mower blades like to run on their own. Lots of slack in the belt, but I guess the belt somehow tightens up after pulling the dump cart for 15 or more minutes. The suspect responsible for this is the tensioner spring. Seems pretty weak, but also seem like it ought to be enough. Oh, well what can you expect from a 20yo Craftsman -- Problems, lots of them, one after another. And that is why they are so cheap...


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## Okie

See that blade run myself on several of the MTD and craftsman's.
Some of them non-electric PTO mower decks have that blade run issue.
The belt on some gets warmed up in the front spinning PTO pulley and gets sticky and starts turning the blades with the manual PTO set of off AND the blade brakes are also really wimpy on some of them decks and even costly NEW brake pads and springs won't cure the issue permanently.
Just weak and wimpy made designs.


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> See that blade run myself on several of the MTD and craftsman's.
> Some of them non-electric PTO mower decks have that blade run issue.
> The belt on some gets warmed up in the front spinning PTO pulley and gets sticky and starts turning the blades with the manual PTO set of off AND the blade brakes are also really wimpy on some of them decks and even costly NEW brake pads and springs won't cure the issue permanently.
> Just weak and wimpy made designs.



As I suspected. Thanks for the info.


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## MontanaResident

I pulled the deck, and despite all my cleaning it is still a mess. Come spring time I'll pull it all apart, clean it and fully lube all pivots, and there's quite a few of them. Considering how dirty it was I wouldn't be surprised if some linkages were not fully retracting, i.e. the brakes, and the belt not becoming loose enough. These old mowers are really crying for a complete disassembly, inspection and lubing. Luckily nothing appears to be broken or missing.


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## djg james

Now that you're talking about end of year, how do you winterize your tools? Not talking about lawnmowers. I usually charge my batteries every one or two months through the winter and also start them up about February.

I've had trouble with little engines like power washers and mini-cultivators. I leave gas in them and recently have been replacing the carbs so I want to store them properly. Run them dry then add Sta-bil and run dry again?

Chainsaws get used throughout the year so it's not a problem with them.


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## JRM

MontanaResident said:


> It was a great spring and summer for flipping mowers. I've no idea if supply and demand will get to parity next year, and upset my cash boon. The mower I'm sitting on now is getting better and better. Although it has developed an interesting problem. The Mower blades like to run on their own. Lots of slack in the belt, but I guess the belt somehow tightens up after pulling the dump cart for 15 or more minutes. The suspect responsible for this is the tensioner spring. Seems pretty weak, but also seem like it ought to be enough. Oh, well what can you expect from a 20yo Craftsman -- Problems, lots of them, one after another. And that is why they are so cheap...


I probably missed it, is this a non electric pto deck? Manual cable engagement?


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## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Now that you're talking about end of year, how do you winterize your tools? Not talking about lawnmowers. I usually charge my batteries every one or two months through the winter and also start them up about February.
> 
> I've had trouble with little engines like power washers and mini-cultivators. I leave gas in them and recently have been replacing the carbs so I want to store them properly. Run them dry then add Sta-bil and run dry again?
> 
> Chainsaws get used throughout the year so it's not a problem with them.


I use the mower a lot. As much as my saws. Pull the dump cart to move splitter rubbish, move split logs to the winter storage area, and of course mowing. I have winterized doing it all and doing nothing special. Makes no difference. Everything starts and runs fine in March.


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> I probably missed it, is this a non electric pto deck? Manual cable engagement?


Current mower is manual engage PTO. I'm not crazy about it.


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## JRM

MontanaResident said:


> Current mower is manual engage PTO. I'm not crazy about it.


I recall having to add an extra spring to hold the idler off just a little bit more. (Create more slack in the belt). Otherwise what happens is the engine pulley rubs the belt just so slightly because there isn't enough slack in the belt, the belt warms up and the warmer it gets the more grabby it gets which engages the blades even though technically you are disengaged. 
I also recall the brake arms wearing out pretty quickly on those set ups. When new they help hold the belt stationary but as they age they lose their grip on the belt. 
There's probably more I'm forgetting that's just off the top of my head. 
I'd say there is good reason that system didn't survive very long.


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## MontanaResident

Got it a Craftsman DLS3500. All tires have to be replaced. I'll move tires and wheel from the other mower, so I can move this some place and I can start testing it out and see what is wrong with this mower. Guy I got it from died not to long ago and his adult children are moving all this junk to the dump and trying any way they can to get rid of the rest. Battery is on the charger and I cleaned it up some. Everything is mostly there so hopefully it will run, else my investment of $0.00 might get costly. I'll know more tomorrow...


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## MontanaResident

Well so far tis good. 

I removed the gas tank and the engine cowling and more cleaning. Afterwards I put back the battery and she cranks real hard.

Tomorrow more cleaning, reinstall the parts of the engine I took apart, reinstall the gas tank and see how she runs. If it runs at all I will be stoked. I suspect the carburetor likely needs rebuilding, which is simple enough. But if it runs at all I’ll go ahead and order the new tires. Then all my attention will be on the mower deck, and then put it away till the spring when I will put it up for sale. 

There was a serious hornets nest under the panel (hence removal of the gas tank) and a 1/2 an inch of mud, grass and general foul grime. And under the engine cowling, more dirt and oil and grime and a whole lot of stink bugs. This machine was an insect habitat, big time. 

I’m glad I had the spare wheels and tires that I temporarily loaned from the other mower project. Lots of pushing this thing around, but allowed me to get the steering loosened up, and the mower deck seems to rise and lower just fine. 

All in all a good $0.00 investment, so far...


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## JRM

Any idea how old it is? I think that's the first Craftsman I've seen that color.


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## Okie

If the engine acts like it's struggling to get over the compression stroke, check the valve lash and set to minimum.
The compression release on the single cylinder Intek is on the Intake valve. (and valve lash on the intake valve is critical for the ACR to operate correctly)


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## MontanaResident

JRM said:


> Any idea how old it is? I think that's the first Craftsman I've seen that color.



DOM is May 2007. I've seen this color before, but you're right this era mower was largely Army Green.


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> If the engine acts like it's struggling to get over the compression stroke, check the valve lash and set to minimum.
> The compression release on the single cylinder Intek is on the Intake valve. (and valve lash on the intake valve is critical for the ACR to operate correctly)



Cranks real hard = cranks real good.


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## CDElliott

MontanaResident said:


> DOM is May 2007. I've seen this color before, but you're right this era mower was largely Army Green.


I also bought a Sears riding mower in 2007 that is that color. It was the 80th-anniversary edition DYS 4500 with the Intek 22 HP motor. Still have it, but only use it a few times a year for picking up leaves with a DR vacuum leaf bagger.


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## MontanaResident

No Joy yet on the mower. Things were delayed cause I had to fix a leak in the gas tank. Yesterday no start, not even a pop. Spark is good, so I took a hard look at the carb, and it is Phooked. Linkages are gummed up bad and difficult to move, return springs have no effect. I removed the float bowl and every orifice looks clogged and everything feels real sticky. New Carburetor is soon to be ordered.

Today I'm going to spray quick start into the intake manifold. I expect it to pop and run a bit. If not I'll have to check the compression and possibly remove the valve cover and maybe the cylinder head.


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## Okie

I had the gummy hit me awhile back on a used mower. I cleaned the carb and installed a in-line fuel filter and the gummy came back within about 4 hours of run time into the filter and also caused the float needle to gummy stuck again when the engine set without use for about 12 hours.

Old molasses in the gas tank from previous owner. I put it in moth balls until I can remove the rear fenders and remove the big tank for a good cleaning.


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> I had the gummy hit me awhile back on a used mower. I cleaned the carb and installed a in-line fuel filter and the gummy came back within about 4 hours of run time into the filter and also caused the float needle to gummy stuck again when the engine set without use for about 12 hours.
> 
> Old molasses in the gas tank from previous owner. I put it in moth balls until I can remove the rear fenders and remove the big tank for a good cleaning.



Cleaning a mostly clean carb makes for careful work. I could tell in an instance that this carb was to much work. A new B&S Carb cost $130 or so, but a clone cost $20. I'll take my chances with the cheaper one.  

I wish there was a scrap yard around. I'd love to find some old tires that still hold air.


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## MontanaResident

It was a nice idea. I took the valve cover off and the valves don’t move. Everything looks fine, but rockers are not moving, nor the push rods. Something deep in the motor is wrong.

1. Remove and fix the engine in the spring
2. New engine
3. Get rid of it
4. Sell it for parts
5. ?


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## MontanaResident

Here is the problem and possible cause, and I'm not going to dig into this engine. Maybe look for a used engine in good shape, or just get rid of this boat anchor.


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## Okie

What is the model and code on that Briggs OHV Intek engine?


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## MontanaResident

Tis gone. The power of the word FREE. Gone in 24 hours. New tires, new carb, complete tear down of engine with possible new camshaft, blades and spindles, etc. I was looking at $400 to $500 just to get it going again. Looked rather rough, so wasn't going to be an easy sell.

All'n'All it was a good one to let go. Guy that picked it up has the exact same machine with a failed tranny, so he'll salvage his machine with parts from this.


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## MontanaResident

Okie said:


> What is the model and code on that Briggs OHV Intek engine?



Not really sure. Tis gone.


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## Okie

I've got some in my lawn tractor salvage of that nature. Did not know why this one was salvaged but I found out one reason why. I pulled what I thought was a good hydrostatic transaxle out of one few days ago, bench tested it by spinning the shaft and F/R seemed ok. Installed into another tractor. No Good.
Bad tires, engine, deck, on and on throwing good money into bad. You were lucky you could see the obvious bad stuff before you throwed any serious money and time into it.


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## MontanaResident

Yeah, I was tempted to order tires soon, and the carb seemed like a small expense. But I held off til I could get the engine to pop. When the carb was still on I tried to get it to pop with the Quick Start and got nothing, and the compression always seemed a little low when I turned it by hand. The big tip off was when I first got the motor to turn over with the battery. I still had a sandwich baggie over the carb intake to keep water and all else out of the intake. When the motor cranked over hard and fast, I thought I was lucky the baggie didn't get sucked in. Turns out I wasn't lucky in that way. I was unlucky that there was no vacuum to suck the baggie in.


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## Okie

I did the same with a plastic baggie on a old L head Tecumseh engine once. I had never seen the engine run and was checking it out.
The big plastic baggie sucked inside fast and all at once. I pulled the spark plug and could see the plastic. Sure was dreading pulling the head. I got ahold on the bag with hemostats and keep pulling as i turned over the engine by hand and was surprised it all came out.

Few minutes later the engine was running strong. Big surprise again.

Turned out the old 8 horse Tecumseh was really a good one and still in use, electric start on a Troy Bilt Horse Tiller..


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## MontanaResident

Finally! Deal has been struck. I'll be buying/trading for a lightly used John Deere S180. Bought this year and used 1/2 the summer. 13.5 hours on the meter. Little dirty but otherwise in fine shape. $2000 plus an older, yet in very good condition, Remington 700 30-06. I haven't shot this rifle in over 10 years, and frees up a slot in the gun cabinet, so that is a win also. 

New this mower sells at $3600, and has been unavailable for 6+ months.


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## MontanaResident

I got it. It was 17 degrees and would barely start. With some quick start if fired right up. Other then dirty this is in mint condition. Not a scratch on it. Even the tires still have the little nubs on them, not yet warn away. Yeah Baby.


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## MontanaResident

Temps were warmer this morning, still freezing but far better then it has been. And I could not wait til spring, and got to cleaning. I don't think this has ever been cleaned before. Hell the guy ripped the for sale sign off the seat and never peeled off the tape. WTF! 

When I first picked it up, the owner had a bit of difficulty starting it. I thought it might be temperamental in freezing weather. But now that I have it, and have started it several times, I have had to spray quick start each time it was cold. With quick start it starts immediately and runs nice. Well mostly nice. There are some flat spots in the power band, and those are already getting better, after draining the questionable gas and putting in fresh 92 Octane E-Free gas. While cleaning I did the usual stuff, reset the spark plug gaps, they were a bit wide. Air filter was really loaded up with dirt, and prefilter looked especially bad, but with soap and water now looks fine.

After all that it did start without quick start, and the power band is much smoother, and engine runs real smooth like.

Jury is still out on the starting issues, but it will have to wait til spring, when I can take wrenches and sockets to it, and possibly get new plugs, and really run the machine for a couple of miles on the street out front.


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## djg james

MontanaResident said:


> Temps were warmer this morning, still freezing but far better then it has been. And I could not wait til spring, and got to cleaning. I don't think this has ever been cleaned before. Hell the guy ripped the for sale sign off the seat and never peeled off the tape. WTF!
> 
> When I first picked it up, the owner had a bit of difficulty starting it. I thought it might be temperamental in freezing weather. But now that I have it, and have started it several times, I have had to spray quick start each time it was cold. With quick start it starts immediately and runs nice. Well mostly nice. There are some flat spots in the power band, and those are already getting better, after draining the questionable gas and putting in fresh 92 Octane E-Free gas. While cleaning I did the usual stuff, reset the spark plug gaps, they were a bit wide. Air filter was really loaded up with dirt, and prefilter looked especially bad, but with soap and water now looks fine.
> 
> After all that it did start without quick start, and the power band is much smoother, and engine runs real smooth like.
> 
> Jury is still out on the starting issues, but it will have to wait til spring, when I can take wrenches and sockets to it, and possibly get new plugs, and really run the machine for a couple of miles on the street out front.
> 
> View attachment 1034407
> 
> View attachment 1034408


Don't know if this is applicable. My Craftsman wouldn't start in warm weather, but it cold. I had a covered repair and the repairman reset the choke cable. It then started in Summer without starting fluid. But now it cold weather, I have to spray something into the air intake to get it started.


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## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Don't know if this is applicable. My Craftsman wouldn't start in warm weather, but it cold. I had a covered repair and the repairman reset the choke cable. It then started in Summer without starting fluid. But now it cold weather, I have to spray something into the air intake to get it started.



I suspect the choke cable as a possible too. Friday it is suppose to be in the 40s (I'll believe it when I see it), and I'll play with it some more then. I once had a JD LA130 that was 10+ years old, and for 4 years I used it in the winter to plow the snow. It started up perfectly winter, summer, no matter what. And the JD L120 I did battle with this early spring also was a good easy starting mower. I'll figure this out. In my experience these machines don't get used enough and any gas starts to go foul and causes some problems. The previous owner, with his negligence to even remove tape off the seat, tells me he probably never did a thing but mow and likely used the least expensive gas he could find.

I could probably ride this around and get it working properly. Good gas and some Chevron Fuel system cleaner is in the tank now, and that usually does the trick.


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## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Don't know if this is applicable. My Craftsman wouldn't start in warm weather, but it cold. I had a covered repair and the repairman reset the choke cable. It then started in Summer without starting fluid. But now it cold weather, I have to spray something into the air intake to get it started.



Good call! I could see that the choke rod was moving only very slightly. With my finger I could move it past the 1/4 inch movement to the >1/2 inch full motion allowed by the carb. With my finger moving the choke rod it fired right up. I mean BOOM, running gooooood...

No adjustment on the choke rod but the rod is actuated with the throttle at full. The throttle cable only took a small adjustment and now everything is working as it should.

I'z feeling good.


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## djg james

Good to hear I guessed right.


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## MontanaResident

djg james said:


> Good to hear I guessed right.



I was going to use the palm of my hand to block the intake and choke the carb, but didn't get that far when I saw what was obvious. I'm now pretty certain the sellers were not just preparing for a move but also off loading a problem machine on to me. Grrrrrrrr. I wrote to the seller earlier today to share the success, but no word or response yet. LOL.


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## MontanaResident

The S180 is sold. Guy drove 100 miles and bought it off me for $3000. A profit of $500. It was just way more machine then I could justify -- size + cost.

Now I'm looking forward to the spring, when I can try and do in 2023 what I did in 2022. Buy, clean, fix and flip. 9 mowers this past year, and made almost $5000, and mostly I enjoyed it.


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