# Stupid Chainsaw Question-Chain Won't Turn



## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

Put it together, started it, the chain won't turn. Is there a trick to it?


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 10, 2008)

Have you checked the chain brake. The lever/guard in front of the handle for your left hand. Pull it back till it clicks and it should release the brake.

Stupid safety gadgets anyway ! LOL

I guess they arent a bad idea. The first real kickback I had it was headed directly for my forehead. Once was all it took to respect the no touch zone at the tip.


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

Tried that. I can't get it to click. I'm wondering if it's me or the refurbished saw?


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 10, 2008)

Will it click if you push the brake lever forward ?

Missing shoes in the clutch ?

Something jammed inside the brake, chain or bar guide rails ?

Chain too tight ?


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## skid row (Nov 10, 2008)

Chain might be too tight. Take the sproket cover off and check what is binding.


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## Mkarlson (Nov 10, 2008)

maybe the sprocket in the nose is jammed .

Try taking clutch cover off and turn it by gloved hand. This would tell you if its the chain brake or not. If it doesnt turn I'd check for proper chain tension if its ok try removing chain and look the bar rails over for an obstruction.


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## JBinKC (Nov 10, 2008)

Could the chain you are using happen to be non OEM on a OEM bar? I recently purchased a replacement chain for my MS170 which was non OEM where the chain fit too tight (snapped into place on the bar) and the saw wouldn't turn.


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

Is there something in the bar that could be the problem? The saw came with the chain on backwards, I didn't notice and put it together that way. The chain broke and I was sent a new replacement saw with a new chain and bar, but I used the old bar and not the replacement. Could this one have been damaged when the chain was on backwards?
I don't think the chain itself is the problem.


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## avalancher (Nov 10, 2008)

Had a very ignorant neighbor bring his saw over a few months ago, he bought a new Husky455 and made the mistake of pulling the sprocket cover off while the chain brake was engaged. When he went to put the cover back on with the brake engaged, the brake wouldnt ride back on top of the clutch.Instead of investigating, he "TAPPED" the cover repeatedly with a mallet trying to force the brake back over the clutch and mangled the brake.Eventually got the cover back on but the saw wouldnt turn the chain.
After I managed to get the cover back off, discovered the brake was mangled, the cover was cracked in two places, and it ended up costing him 80 bucks in parts to repair the thing.
As was suggested, pull the sprocket cover off and check the ride of the chain on the bar, and make sure you didnt mangle the brake when assembling it.

What make and model of saw is it?


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 10, 2008)

The chain tensioner is only supposed to take thte slack out of the chain. Enough so the chain doesnt droop below the bottom of the bar. 

Never use a screwdriver to pry the chain onto the bar.

We need more information from you about the problem to help you correct it.

Other wise we are only taking potshots in the dark sending you on a wild goose chase. Neither is productive for any of us.

How did the first chain break ?
What caused it to break ?
What were you or the sw or both doing when it broke ?
Have you taken it back apart to confirm that it will move freely with no binding by running a drive link through the entire rail of the bar, top and bottom ?
Does the roller on the tip of the bar spin freely ?
When you ordered a new chain after the old one broke is it the correct chain ?

In the words of Jerry McGuire "Help me help you."


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

It's Husqvarna 142. When it came, the chain was on backwards. Having never owned a chainsaw, I didn't notice. Kept it that way and the chain broke. Instead of just sending a new chain, they sent a new saw. We just used the old bar and tried putting the new chain on. When we started the saw, it didn't move.


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## Coldfront (Nov 10, 2008)

I remember you were the one who wanted to buy the cheap reman. saw off the internet, when most here suggested you buy a better saw from a local dealer.


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## .aspx (Nov 10, 2008)

This happened to me once when I was cutting wet douglas fir and didn't bother revving the saw coming out of the cut.

Loosen your chain (or remove it completely) and run a toothpick / scrench to remove anything that's caked up in your guide.

Start revving the saw as you come out of the cut to prevent this as well as making sure your chain is plentity tight


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

Thanks so much. I'm going to take it apart AGAIN tonight and do that-do you think if I still have both bars, I should try switching bars too? The other one hasn't been used (at least by us), so should be ok.


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 10, 2008)

Coldfront said:


> I remember you were the one who wanted to buy the cheap reman. saw off the internet, when most here suggested you buy a better saw from a local dealer.



I guess a 357, 372 or 3120 might have the brute force to overcome the friction of a chain that was over tightened. It would soon burn something else up though. A better saw wont overcome operator error.

Said it before and will say it again - Crawl, walk, run, there should be a natural progression for the uninitiated. Better to learn on an easily replacable saw than one you spend a weeks pay on.
_______________________________________________

Hoping4heat, have you tried any of the posibilties in the replies to your original post ?
Knowing what you have tried so far will help us help you better. Post back each of the things that have been suggested that you checked and didn't find anything wrong. 

Chain brake on. 
Chain too tight.
Something jammed in the brake housing.
Damaged brake assembly.
Wrong chain thickness binding in the rails.
Wrong chain pitch binding on the sprocket or roller tip.
Rollertip on old bar binding.
Bent bar causing chain to bind.
Foreign matter in the guide rails.
Missing shoes in the clutch housing.
Bent chain from improper installation.

I hope I didn't forget any suggestions.



Hoping4Heat said:


> Tried that. I can't get it to click. I'm wondering if it's me or the refurbished saw?



Push it it forward , it should pop as the spring loaded brake engages. Pull it back and it should pop again. If not this sounds like the first place to start looking.


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

KSWoodman-I haven't done anything with it today-I've been running around and it's just easier to do once the kids go to bed. I did bring it in to a Stihl dealer (we use them for everything else, so I know them there) to make sure the chain was tight enough and he said it was. Unfortunately, I didn't try to start it up there. That should rule out the chain being too tight possibility. I am pretty sure it is not the brake, because we tried to get it to disengage, but then didn't hear a click. It was also really hard to get the tightening screw lined up with the bar. I don't know if that means anything?


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## jmcguiretree (Nov 10, 2008)

check to see if the cover was placed back on right.take it off and see if it works without cover*****NOT WHEN RUNNING***** IF IT MOVES FREELY THAN IT IS IN CHAIN BREAK


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

I can check that now-I don't think it will move though. What does that mean?


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## Austin1 (Nov 10, 2008)

avalancher said:


> Had a very ignorant neighbor bring his saw over a few months ago, he bought a new Husky455 and made the mistake of pulling the sprocket cover off while the chain brake was engaged. When he went to put the cover back on with the brake engaged, the brake wouldnt ride back on top of the clutch.Instead of investigating, he "TAPPED" the cover repeatedly with a mallet trying to force the brake back over the clutch and mangled the brake.Eventually got the cover back on but the saw wouldnt turn the chain.
> After I managed to get the cover back off, discovered the brake was mangled, the cover was cracked in two places, and it ended up costing him 80 bucks in parts to repair the thing.
> As was suggested, pull the sprocket cover off and check the ride of the chain on the bar, and make sure you didnt mangle the brake when assembling it.
> 
> What make and model of saw is it?


+1 becarefull don't engage your brake if you have a outboard clutch husky wile the clutch cover is off. I think we have the same neighbor maybe he has a brother up here lol. Just trying to get that brake band to pop back into place wile the cover is off is a pain in the ***. is a whole thread about it in the chainsaw forum.Sorry don't now how to post a link.


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

Ok, I think it was the break. I don't think I ever heard that click before. Now, the 2nd saw they sent me looked really beat up and that is why I only switched the chain. Last night, in desperation, I switched to the beat up looking saw. This one won't start. It feels like I can only pull the choke half way.


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

Thank GOD. It was the bar. Whatever the things were in front wouldn't spin well. It is running.


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 10, 2008)

Thank GOD. It was the bar. Whatever the things were in front wouldn't spin well. It is running.  

Thank you everyone for your help!


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## Austin1 (Nov 10, 2008)

Hoping4Heat said:


> Thank GOD. It was the bar. Whatever the things were in front wouldn't spin well. It is running.
> 
> Thank you everyone for your help!


So your tip was sized up, at least it's not any thing serous, Just put the chain back on the bar and pull it across a log that should UN lock it. It might take some effort but never had one that would not rotate after getting stuck. If it is really trashed you can replace the tip of the bar without buying a new bar.


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 10, 2008)

Glad to hear you found the problem.

There is a tip greaser that for $6.00 is an excellent investment. I give mine 2 shots on one side, roll the chain by hand a bit and 2 shots on the other side nearly every time I go out to cut wood. Then when I add fuel and bar lube it gets another shot. 

It's a learning curve getting used to something new. It takes time. Work safely for your sake and others.


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## J.W Younger (Nov 10, 2008)

KsWoodsMan said:


> I guess a 357, 372 or 3120 might have the brute force to overcome the friction of a chain that was over tightened. It would soon burn something else up though. A better saw wont overcome operator error.
> 
> Said it before and will say it again - Crawl, walk, run, there should be a natural progression for the uninitiated. Better to learn on an easily replacable saw than one you spend a weeks pay on.
> _______________________________________________
> ...


K.S I,m having problems with my biggers saws which i don't use a lot. The mac 610 was loaned out a few years back and now the chain binds bad.its a new chain on it. The guy i loaned it to said it wouldn't cut so he put a new chain on it.My guess its the wrong chain because the spur seems to have 2 wear paterns on it.do you know if its possible to change this over to use the same b/c as my 460 sthil? The 460 uses a paddle wheel and the mac uses a spur. both bars are the same 20in from tip to bucking spikes. my 460 ran a while then when i went to restart it it was flooded and wouldn't start till I pulled the muffler cover and dryed the plug.I figure the diaphram or needle valves bad but at least I can get parts for this one.what i'm trying to do is get one or the other going as cheap as possible cause moneys tight. I appreciate your thoughts.


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 10, 2008)

There is a chance he put the wrong chain back on there. Borrowed saws seem to come home with bent bars, pinched guide rails and run in the dirt till they quit. 

Lay the bar out on a flat surface and check for straightness. 

Use one tooth from a chain and run it through the rails to check if it has been pinched. 

I had a tip pinched when it came back and the heat destroyed the bearing in the tip in just a matter of a few minutes of running.

I'm not sure why there would be 2 wear patterns the first thing that comes to mind is .325 chain instead of 3/8 .050 like it is supposed to have originally.

One last thing to check is the wear condition of the rim sprocket. If it is severly worn the chain will ride up on the tops inside the drive wheel and create extra tension and binding. The more load on the chain the worse it gets and will bring things to a halt or turn loose completely.

Looking on the Oregonchain site they show the Stihl 460 uses 72 drive links and the Mac 610 uses 70 drive links. They dont show the same # for the bars so I would say it wouldnt be a direct swap. You would have to compare the 2 bars to see how close the mounting bolt diameter is, the oiling hole locations and the tensioner holes match up.

The experts over at the chainsaw forum would be better suited to answering if they easily interchange and might have a good swap in mind that would work to your advantage.


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## J.W Younger (Nov 10, 2008)

KsWoodsMan said:


> There is a chance he put the wrong chain back on there. Borrowed saws seem to come home with bent bars, pinched guide rails and run in the dirt till they quit.
> 
> Lay the bar out on a flat surface and check for straightness.
> 
> ...



thanks ks i think i'll just lean on gettin the 460 fixed for now cause the ole mac has a manual oiler that my arthuritit thumb can't handle anyway thanks man


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## l2edneck (Nov 10, 2008)

This thread scares me.....be careful bud....


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## Husky137 (Nov 11, 2008)

Send the saw back and get your money back before you do some real harm to yourself. Or find someone with real, actual chainsaw experience to show you how to run one safely. Be wary of friends and neighbors who claim to know what they are doing.


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## Coldfront (Nov 11, 2008)

Husky137 said:


> Send the saw back and get your money back before you do some real harm to yourself. Or find someone with real, actual chainsaw experience to show you how to run one safely. Be wary of friends and neighbors who claim to know what they are doing.



That was my point, if she would have let the spiders out of her wallet and bought from a local dealer he could have showed them how to run it and the chain would not have been on backwards. My last saw I know I could have saved at least $50 buying online but I decided to buy from my local Husky dealer. The saw was all set up he took me out back of his shop ran it cut a few logs checked the rpm, showed me exactly how everything works, he de-tuned it a little bit for break in and told me to bring it back after I run about 1 gallon of gas through it and he will set the rpm back up for max performance and check it over after break in at no charge. How many people who buy off the internet even have a tach to check the proper rpm and adjust the carb properly?


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## Coldfront (Nov 11, 2008)

KsWoodsMan said:


> Glad to hear you found the problem.
> 
> There is a tip greaser that for $6.00 is an excellent investment. I give mine 2 shots on one side, roll the chain by hand a bit and 2 shots on the other side nearly every time I go out to cut wood. Then when I add fuel and bar lube it gets another shot.
> 
> It's a learning curve getting used to something new. It takes time. Work safely for your sake and others.



My 372xp came with the grease tool and grease but my Husky dealer told me not to use it he said if you grease it the bar oil won't get down to the sprocket and you will have to keep greasing it all the time, he said good bar oil will lube it better and constantly, he said he has seen more tip sprockets burn'd up from people who use grease and very few problems when people just let the bar oil do it's job, the grease keeps the oil from getting down to the sprocket bearings. But what does he know we are only in the lumberjack capital of the world, and he is the biggest husky dealer in the region.


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 11, 2008)

Well, it's nice to see that along with the helpful people, the sarcastic #######s are still around too. I really want to thank everyone who helped me get the saw going properly. Anyone else, if you have an extra $50 lying around, you can send it to me and I'll gladly buy from my local dealer.


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## Coldfront (Nov 11, 2008)

It's aggravating when people ask for advise then do what there mind was set on anyway. I hope all the problems were worth the $50 along with problems still to come.


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## Husky137 (Nov 11, 2008)

Hoping4Heat said:


> Well, it's nice to see that along with the helpful people, the sarcastic #######s are still around too. I really want to thank everyone who helped me get the saw going properly. Anyone else, if you have an extra $50 lying around, you can send it to me and I'll gladly buy from my local dealer.



Not being sarcastic at all, just brutally realistic. Your posts bely that you are obviously way in over your head. Would you like a life ring or should we try and teach you how to swim by shouting instructions from shore? $50 is cheap money to get at least a rudimentary education on how to operate a very dangerous tool. Will $50 even cover the ER co-pay these days. You need to at least develop the tiniest bit of respect for the power of a chainsaw.


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 11, 2008)

Husky137 said:


> Send the saw back and get your money back before you do some real harm to yourself. *Or find someone with real, actual chainsaw experience to show you how to run one safely.* Be wary of friends and neighbors who claim to know what they are doing.


Husky, I'm kinda with you on this one. But they seemed pretty set on buying and using one. I didn't think it was a good idea to start with a bigger saw without knowing their situation. 

Maybe, just maybe there was a reason the guy from the tree service suggested a more modest starting point for them.


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## Hoping4Heat (Nov 11, 2008)

I do have respect for it and that is why we didn't go out and buy a huge saw that would be difficult to handle. That is why I brought it to a local dealer who I use frequently who showed me how to adjust the tension of the chain. I just didn't think that it wouldn't turn, and obviously the dealer didn't either. I thought possibly someone could help me get it set up and was getting frustrated taking the chain on and off and moving it back and forth. I do have a 2 year warranty on it, same as new, I just thought a lot of you guys knew a lot about saws and could help me get it set up last night (as I did) rather than waiting until today. My father is coming later today and will show us how to use it, he always cut all our wood, but I wanted to have it set up when he got here. Next time I'll just wait and take it to the dealer...


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## bore_pig (Nov 11, 2008)

Easy now! No need to get upset. We've all been in your spot. None of us were born with the knowledge to cut safely. Hate to hear you got hurt. If wrenching on the saw is frustrating, wait till you cut with it. A saw is something that needs lots of time and tinkering to keep at it's best performance.

Learning from your father is a good first step. I'm sure that he'll show you how to not use the tip when cutting (to avoid kickback) and all those sorts of things. What he may not tell you is to wear workboots, not tennis shoes, when cutting. And to wear safety glasses. And hearing protection. And heavy pants or chaps. 

Good Luck.


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## avalancher (Nov 11, 2008)

Hoping4Heat said:


> Is there something in the bar that could be the problem? The saw came with the chain on backwards, I didn't notice and put it together that way. The chain broke and I was sent a new replacement saw with a new chain and bar, but I used the old bar and not the replacement. Could this one have been damaged when the chain was on backwards?
> I don't think the chain itself is the problem.



I guess I am a little puzzled as to why you used the old bar instead of the new one that came with the replacement saw. Seems that using the new bar would have eliminated a problem with the bar, unlikely as it may seem in this case.


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 11, 2008)

Coldfront, I figure the engineers that designed and built the saws we use knew that the oil slinging off the chain wasn't going to make it to the inside of a bearinged hub that turns 5,000 to 6,000 RPM. So they provided a lube point to provide better longevity. 

To someone that has never used a saw before and doesn't subconsciescely realize if the oiler is working or have the experience to know how much is enough, greasing the tip seemed like good advice. The bar is going to go in the dirt. It might even go in the dirt often. A little extra grease in there seems like a better idea for lubrication than grinding compound going through dry bearings. Adding a little every time you fuel up will expell that grinding compound.

It is their first saw, they are starting out someplace. They bought what evidently fit their budget and would cut some firewood from time to time. They came to a site where experience with saws and wood heaters abounds to ask for valid opinions on their choice of 2 saws. It would be better if they had one of us standing beside them guiding them or mentoring them through the process, showing them the ropes. They came here seeking knowledge instead. Some made the decision to discourage them, others to belittle their willingness to learn and some offered help with their first steps to being more self reliant. I personally don't want to hear about her husband having an accident anymore than the rest of you but they are going to do this and are well on their way. They may not ever cut more than 3-4 cords of firewood a year to heat their own home. They probably won't be felling timber in the PNW or the East Coast Hardwoods. But the are going to cut some wood. Their mind is set on this as they has showed. 

Is it worse to help them have a better experience learning the ropes on their own with a bit of guidance or to be less than helpful and when it goes wrong for them, to tell yourself you did the right thing by not helping ? 

Ma'am, you and your husband work safely, read and undestand the manual with all the safety warnings before putting the saw to use, Please.


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## avalancher (Nov 11, 2008)

KsWoodsMan said:


> Coldfront, I figure the engineers that designed and built the saws we use knew that the oil slinging off the chain wasn't going to make it to the inside of a bearinged hub that turns 5,000 to 6,000 RPM. So they provided a lube point to provide better longevity.
> 
> To someone that has never used a saw before and doesn't subconsciescely realize if the oiler is working or have the experience to know how much is enough, greasing the tip seemed like good advice. The bar is going to go in the dirt. It might even go in the dirt often. A little extra grease in there seems like a better idea for lubrication than grinding compound going through dry bearings. Adding a little every time you fuel up will expell that grinding compound.
> 
> ...



Amen.Tried to rep you on that one, but I have to spread it around a bit first.
I aint going to say another word, KsWoodsMan has hit the nail right on the head.


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## Coldfront (Nov 11, 2008)

KsWoodsMan said:


> Coldfront, I figure the engineers that designed and built the saws we use knew that the oil slinging off the chain wasn't going to make it to the inside of a bearinged hub that turns 5,000 to 6,000 RPM. So they provided a lube point to provide better longevity.
> 
> To someone that has never used a saw before and doesn't subconsciescely realize if the oiler is working or have the experience to know how much is enough, greasing the tip seemed like good advice. The bar is going to go in the dirt. It might even go in the dirt often. A little extra grease in there seems like a better idea for lubrication than grinding compound going through dry bearings. Adding a little every time you fuel up will expell that grinding compound.



I don't know who is right or wrong but I will go by what the dealer told me don't use the grease, he used to cut for a living in the pacific northwest, then moved back to WI. and has had a Husky chainsaw dealership sales and service for for about 20 years now and we are in big time logger country here.
I would like to know what the truth is but for now no offense but I will go with what the dealer told me. I think what he said was once you grease it you are committed to greasing it all the time from then out because now oil with not make it through the grease down to the bearings anymore, he claimed the bar oil will get to the bearing and if you use good bar oil you will be fine. Also I never said for them to run out and buy a 70cc saw, but many of us did recommend getting a better saw than the one they wanted, a better model used saw would have been a better choice for the money.


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## Mike Van (Nov 11, 2008)

Hoping4Heat - Now that gas is cheap [ha ha] again, If you ever want to take a ride up to Kent, bring your saw, I'd be happy to help, show you what I can. I've been at it for a long time. No 50.00 charge either -


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## KsWoodsMan (Nov 11, 2008)

Coldfront, good point. What is right for some might not be right for all. No offence taken over whether to grease the tip or not. 

They could have bought a better saw, agreed. Better used saws exist, lots of them. Until they know what to look for, they won't know what to look for. The chance of getting a warranty that lasts past the driveway is pretty slim when buying used. Only one dealer here sells used saws . "They are 'as-is', you pay your money , you own the saw." After getting support from their local dealer I'd hope they decide to support him with the purchase of better chains, bar, bar lube, premix and PPE. When they are ready they should have a good relationship with him. Good enough to ask and trust his opinion on an upgrade from his shop. Before they wear the 142 out they will be ready for more.

Or they will decide wood heat isn't for them and have gained valuable experience at self sufficiency.

.....

Hoping4heat, glad to hear the dad offered to help out with the learning curve.

Stay warm and keep it out of the dirt.


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## Outdoorsmanvgp (Oct 12, 2015)

I need some help with My chain saw

I bought a STIHL MS 271, 291 farm boss saw in early September. I haven't had any problems with it until now. 

My brother wanted to shoot his brand new 22 in the back yard so he ran the saw at the same time as he was shooting so none of the neighbors would hear. But he has the brake on and reved the engine at little. Then the saw started smoking. So I try to start it the next morning and it turns on but the chain won't move even though I disengage the chain brake. The little wheel at the front of the bar moves freely but when the bar and chain is on the saw nothing moves. Can some one help me


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## Canadian farm boy (Oct 12, 2015)

Outdoorsmanvgp said:


> I need some help with My chain saw
> 
> I bought a STIHL MS 271, 291 farm boss saw in early September. I haven't had any problems with it until now.
> 
> My brother wanted to shoot his brand new 22 in the back yard so he ran the saw at the same time as he was shooting so none of the neighbors would hear. But he has the brake on and reved the engine at little. Then the saw started smoking. So I try to start it the next morning and it turns on but the chain won't move even though I disengage the chain brake. The little wheel at the front of the bar moves freely but when the bar and chain is on the saw nothing moves. Can some one help me


Try using the search feature here. If you don't find any answers to help with your situation start a new thread in the chainsaw forum. The guys there are awesome


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## ckr74 (Oct 13, 2015)

Outdoorsmanvgp said:


> I need some help with My chain saw
> 
> I bought a STIHL MS 271, 291 farm boss saw in early September. I haven't had any problems with it until now.
> 
> My brother wanted to shoot his brand new 22 in the back yard so he ran the saw at the same time as he was shooting so none of the neighbors would hear. But he has the brake on and reved the engine at little. Then the saw started smoking. So I try to start it the next morning and it turns on but the chain won't move even though I disengage the chain brake. The little wheel at the front of the bar moves freely but when the bar and chain is on the saw nothing moves. Can some one help me


I can't see the saw from here but if the saw was revved for very long with the brake engaged the plastic case has melted. I've seen it more than once.


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## jughead500 (Oct 13, 2015)

sorry but should your brother be in possession of a chainsaw or firearm?


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## sunfish (Oct 13, 2015)

The saw is toast. Start a new thread and you will get help fixin it.


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