# Poulan 3400-3700-4000 fuel line replacement revisited



## Modifiedmark (Dec 4, 2010)

Seems fuel line issues are the fad now days and it seems new members are popping up more and more wanting help with fuel line replacements. 

I did a brief how-to on this series of saws before but not thinking ahead I posted it in the Poulan thread where it's now buried in amongst 400 or so pages making it extremely difficult to find when needed. 

I know we don't need any more stickies in the chainsaw fourm but maybe at least by starting a new thread on it, it can be found easier with the search function. 

I plan on doing a couple other Poulan saw series when time permits like the 25 series and Micro's at least as I know they come up a lot as well. 

For now I'll show how I put the new version of Oregon brand fuel lines that is supposed to withstand 30% ethanol in my Poulan 4000. The Poulan 3400 and 3700 use the exact same fuel line setup as well. 

Here is the patient my Poulan 4000 that had some ethanol damaged lines on it. 







Outside of a screw driver to remove the top cover and recoil, on the Poulan here are two things that I consider necessary when doing fuel lines on almost all chainsaws. 

Some thin gauge stove pipe wire from almost any hardware store and a medium size pair of curved hemostats. 






Remove the air filter cover and filter. Remove the 3 screws holding the cyl cover on then lift and turn the cover to remove it. 











You then need to remove the 4 screws holding the recoil and make note of where the different length screws go. Mainly remember that the shortest one goes in the uppper left corner and the long ones go in the rear by the fuel cap.


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 4, 2010)

You will need 12" of 1/8"X3/16" fuel line. You need to cut a 3" piece for the vent line and 9" for the fuel line itself. 

Take note of the 2 holes in the top of the tank, the rear hole is for the vent and the front hole is for the fuel line. You will also note that the vent hole is just a little bit bigger. 
 
Seems alot of these old saws show up to there new owners with out any duckbill check valves on them and even worse the little plastic double barbed fitting that holds the duckbill valve to the vent line is missing as well. 

Here is the small double barbed fitting thats sometimes missing so you can see what it is. Also pictured is the new Poulan duckbill with the part# clearly labled on it. 






The reason that the tank hole for the vent line is just a little bit bigger is so that when the vent is installed, you pull the line all the way to the top of the tank and the plastic barb is actually pulled up into the hole that way and tightens the line into the tank hole. 

I showed in the prior posting how to use a common Homelite duck bill with a 1/8" piece or plastic tubing stuck in the vent hose to hold the valve. If you do that you will need a .117x.211" line to fit that hole right. 

Here is the vent line with the barb and duckbill assembled and ready to install into the tank. You need to remember that the longer end of the double barb is inserted into the line and the duckbill goes on the shorter end. 

Notice how the end of the line is angle cut to help guide it into the tank hole






Take a piece of the stovepipe wire and insert it through the vent line hole in the tank and fish it out through the tank fill hole. 

Poke a small hole in the angle cut on the line and pull the line up through the hole in the tank pulling it all the way to the top of the tank. Remove the wire and route the end of the line back in above the tank by the ign switch. 











Cut the same angle on the end of the fuel line and using the wire again, this time through the fuel line hole, guide the line up through the hole in the tank. 

Pull enough line through to go under the carb and around the other side of it to the carb inlet fitting.


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 4, 2010)

I forgot add that after the line is pulled though the tank, cut the angle off the end of the line so it is flat. 

Using the hemostats I then grab the end of the line on the side of the carb just shy of the end of it and guide it onto the carb inlet fitting. 






You can then install the fuel filter on the tank end of the line and put it back into the tank. 






Now your ready to reinstall the recoil, cyl cover, air filter and cover. 

Fill the tank and go cut some wood.


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## PLMCRZY (Dec 4, 2010)

I want to add, i could not find a duckbill around my area but the dealer had a Echo vent assembly. I used that instead of the duckbill, seems to work great. Also if you dont have hemostats or angled needle nose you can take the carb off and its a breeze then.

Although you will have to zip tie it to the kill switch wire so the "vent" is out of the way of your bolt hole for the pull start.


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 4, 2010)

ClayKann101 said:


> I want to add, i could not find a duckbill around my area but the dealer had a Echo vent assembly. I used that instead of the duckbill, seems to work great. Also if you dont have hemostats or angled needle nose you can take the carb off and its a breeze then.
> 
> Although you will have to zip tie it to the kill switch wire so the "vent" is out of the way of your bolt hole for the pull start.



Why not post up a picture of the Echo vent and how you made that work. 

I'm not familiar with that setup.


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## PLMCRZY (Dec 4, 2010)

Modifiedmark said:


> Why not post up a picture of the Echo vent and how you made that work.
> 
> I'm not familiar with that setup.


Give me a sec ill run out there and take a few.


*EDIT*

Sorry about the cell phone picture, i couldnt find the charger for the real camera. 

Anyways Heres the line with the zip tie, you have to do this to keep the vent from blocking your bolt hole. Dont put the vent in the tank i put just enough fuel line in the tank so it wouldnt slip out.




It looks a little smushed but it vents just fine ive had no problems with it.
Heres the vent itself that you need, part #'s # 13130056430 / 13130040630
Its about $5 and its made by oregon.


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 4, 2010)

I forgot to add that at this time I have still not come up with a part # for the double barbed plastic fitting. I have not seen it listed on any IPL yet. 

Poulan did list a fuel line kit on there IPLs and Im guessing that it may have been included in the kit, but I don't know for sure. 

I do know that alot of weedwackers had 2 piece fuel lines on them with a double barbed connector on them, the ones I have seen will also work fine for this application. 

Got the local dealer saving them all for me.


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## redunshee (Dec 5, 2010)

ClayKann101 said:


> Give me a sec ill run out there and take a few.
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> ...



I've seen those. So you have the Echo vent tucked between the kill switch and fuel tank. I imagine you had to use a larger size line than the fuel line.
Bob


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## OhioGregg (Dec 5, 2010)

Great job on the fuel line replacement tutorial Mark!!!

The only thing that I would add, is the 9" fuel line is that for a reason. You want to end up with 5" sticking out of the tank, that goes under the carb to the inlet.
So you have 4" inside the tank with the weighted filter on it. Its important that the filter is not stuck up against the back wall of the tank. It should be free to swing back & forth and not hit the back wall.

Would get real annoying to be cutting a few minutes and the saw quit, only to find the filter stuck up at the top of the tank, out of the fuel.

Gregg,


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## GlenM (Dec 5, 2010)

The wire trick is something I figured out some time ago. I have a spool of wire used for ele fence that works well, sometimes I wrap a twist tie wire around angle cut that does the trick.
fwiw


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## Sprintcar (Dec 5, 2010)

Excellent Post Mark. Rep coming your way after I reload. I got a line out on a 306A, if he bites, it's yours.

Jerry


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 5, 2010)

OhioGregg said:


> Great job on the fuel line replacement tutorial Mark!!!
> 
> The only thing that I would add, is the 9" fuel line is that for a reason. You want to end up with 5" sticking out of the tank, that goes under the carb to the inlet.
> So you have 4" inside the tank with the weighted filter on it. Its important that the filter is not stuck up against the back wall of the tank. It should be free to swing back & forth and not hit the back wall.
> ...



Good points Gregg, the more you guys add to this the better it becomes. I'm not really all that good at explaining whats on my mind. 





GlenM said:


> The wire trick is something I figured out some time ago. I have a spool of wire used for ele fence that works well, sometimes I wrap a twist tie wire around angle cut that does the trick.
> fwiw



Most electric fence wire I have seen is a little too thick for whats needed here. Not saying it won't work but the thinner wire is much easier to work with. Someone mentioned mig welding wire and I think thats a geat idea, its a little stiffer and still smalll dia if you used the .023 wire but .030 would work as well. 




Sprintcar said:


> Excellent Post Mark. Rep coming your way after I reload. I got a line out on a 306A, if he bites, it's yours.
> 
> Jerry




Thats good but I like that other Poulan you got the other day... :hmm3grin2orange:


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## PLMCRZY (Dec 5, 2010)

redunshee said:


> I've seen those. So you have the Echo vent tucked between the kill switch and fuel tank. I imagine you had to use a larger size line than the fuel line.
> Bob



I used whatever mark recommended in the first thread about changing fuel line. Both lines are the same size.....yes its tucked behind all that stuff its a tight fit but it works!


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## Bob Wright (Dec 5, 2010)

ClayKann101 said:


> I want to add, i could not find a duckbill around my area but the dealer had a Echo vent assembly. I used that instead of the duckbill, seems to work great.



Here is a good place to find a duckbill. Look inside almost any vintage Echo chainsaw fuel cap. They are all the same PN on the Echos. The ones for my CS-60S are 9 bucks each and i found a bag of them on ebay cheap for a CS-302 and it goes under the cap...Bob


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## Modifiedmark (Dec 5, 2010)

Bob Wright said:


> Here is a good place to find a duckbill. Look inside almost any vintage Echo chainsaw fuel cap. They are all the same PN on the Echos. The ones for my CS-60S are 9 bucks each and i found a bag of them on ebay cheap for a CS-302 and it goes under the cap...Bob



Dang, $9 for a duckbill? The correct new ones from Poulan cost me $2 from my dealer. 

I forget how much the Homelite ones are but I buy them 10 at a time and I think there a little bit cheaper. 

For $2 though you might as well use the right ones.


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## joe25DA (Dec 5, 2010)

Great write up Mark. Nice 4K too


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## pastryguyhawaii (Dec 5, 2010)

Thanks for the good information Mark. I like threads like this that can teach me something. My 4000 is a fantastic saw.


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## PLMCRZY (Dec 5, 2010)

pastryguyhawaii said:


> Thanks for the good information Mark. I like threads like this that can teach me something. My 4000 is a fantastic saw.



I see brad did some work on it, how is it over a stock one?


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## stubnail67 (Dec 6, 2010)

*very nice!*

very nice write up mark!!!! if i can rep ya i will!!!


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## pastryguyhawaii (Dec 6, 2010)

ClayKann101 said:


> I see brad did some work on it, how is it over a stock one?



I never ran it stock. I traded for it after he ported it. It's just a real nice saw to run, lots of torque.


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## Rftreeman (Jan 14, 2011)

thanks Mark, if I hadn't seen this and the wire trick I'd still be trying to get the line through the holes in the tank...


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## hamish (Jan 14, 2011)

Has anybody come up with a part number for the double ended barb fitting?


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 14, 2011)

No not yet, like I said it might not even have one, and might have only been a service part of the fuel line kit. 

The trimmer double barb works fine and I got the local dealer looking for a part # for them.


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## hamish (Jan 14, 2011)

Mark,
I ran the part number for the duckbill valve though the husky site.........was amazed all the saws its used on (346NE is one of them) after lots of IPL's I came up with 530 02 38-77 for the double end barb fitting. I ordered a couple of them and when they come in next week I will get some rough measurements and see if they are the same as the on you use.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 14, 2011)

hamish said:


> Mark,
> I ran the part number for the duckbill valve though the husky site.........was amazed all the saws its used on (346NE is one of them) after lots of IPL's I came up with 530 02 38-77 for the double end barb fitting. I ordered a couple of them and when they come in next week I will get some rough measurements and see if they are the same as the on you use.


 
Nice work, let us know what you come up with. Thats also very good news to me to know that duckbill is still being used on saws that new, hopefully that means that we will still be able to obtain them for quite some time yet. They were used in alot of places on lots of older Poulan saws, in fact that same duck bill was used in fuel caps as far back as 1975 as far as I know. 

Just for the heck of it, I did find a double barb fitting # for the one used on the Poulan 3300 and that # is 530024475. That one should work as well. I think I will order a few of both part # just to see what they come back as.


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## Rftreeman (Jan 15, 2011)

I got lucky, both the fitting and the duckbill were still inside the tank and usable...


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## hamish (Jan 27, 2011)

View attachment 169907


Here in the double ended barb fitting 530 02 38-77....................and no I am not a photograper as you can tell.


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## Nardoo (Jan 27, 2011)

Great thread Mark - very informative.
Al.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 27, 2011)

hamish said:


> View attachment 169907
> 
> 
> Here in the double ended barb fitting 530 02 38-77....................and no I am not a photograper as you can tell.


 
Yes we can tell by that photograph! 

Looks close to what is needed from what I can see of it though, thanks for following up and posting it. 

I ordered some of the 530024475 barbs but have not went to pick them up yet. 

I think either will probably work fine. 

This will be nice having part numbers now to use. I cannot believe I never bothered to track them down before.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 27, 2011)

Nardoo said:


> Great thread Mark - very informative.
> Al.


 
Thanks Al, hope it keeps helping around here.


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## Nardoo (Jan 28, 2011)

*Timely*

Mark, that info on the fuel lines came in very handy this afternoon. I have been looking for a 3400 Countervibe for a long time. I bought one brand new in 1982 and sold it after a couple of years to get an 042, much to my regret - but money was tight then. It is hard to find them in Australia in good nick but to my surprise I picked up this 375 the other day. Everything is just fine except the fuel lines, which were hard and perished from sitting too long. It is not a 3400 but I am really happy with it. My first Poulan in 29 years.

Well lucky for me that little duck bill and the plastic connnector were still in the tank. I removed the tank to do the job but it was easy with your instructions. This pic is not good but you can see the little connector poking through.






Very easy to work on these Poulans.





What do you think? Still on it's first chain! This one is a keeper and will sit with my Partners.


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## Modifiedmark (Jan 28, 2011)

Al, as you guys say, that 375 is in awsome Nik! 

You came out well there, looking for a 3400 and finding that instead. 

That saws a full 60cc, and has the updated Poulan 4000 style air filter setup on it. 

Thats a very nice find, we don't see them that often here in the states either.

Al, I'm sure the guys in the Poulan thread would like to see these pictures there.


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## OhioGregg (Jan 28, 2011)

Nardoo, Nice find on the 375! I just found one of those recently myself. They are like Mark said, basically a 61cc 3700 with 4000 features. If your in need of a carb kit for that saw, which has a Zama C3A carb, as opposed to the Walbro HDB on those Poulans. Which will work also. The only place I could find one, was from Poulan. They still have the kits.






Gregg,


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## Nardoo (Jan 28, 2011)

Thanks Mark, I will put up a couple of pics over in the Poulan thread.
Ohiogregg thanks for that info. I have tried to get Poulan parts in Australia but have had no luck at all. Apparently McCulloch distribute Poulan now and they only sell chain store rubbish with no back up. I will keep trying as this 375 needs a Zama idle screw and I will get a kit too. I think I can rob one from an 034S but I will try to get McCulloch customer service to respond to me.
Now I am off to cut up some green red gum before it gets too hot.

Al.


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## homelitejim (May 11, 2011)

subscribing


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## Roanoker494 (Sep 29, 2011)

Thought I would bring this one back up since I have a 3700 here now in need of fuel lines. Big thanks to ModifiedMark for taking the time to make this thread for us.

EDIT:
I am going to make one modification to Mark's approach since I do not have a duck bill around here. I am going to use the barb to hold the vent line in the tank but I will use a coarse threaded screw in the opposite end as a vent, not the best but it will get me through the weekend in Butner and I will find a duck bill next week.


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## redunshee (Sep 29, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> Thought I would bring this one back up since I have a 3700 here now in need of fuel lines. Big thanks to ModifiedMark for taking the time to make this thread for us.
> 
> EDIT:
> I am going to make one modification to Mark's approach since I do not have a duck bill around here. I am going to use the barb to hold the vent line in the tank but I will use a coarse threaded screw in the opposite end as a vent, not the best but it will get me through the weekend in Butner and I will find a duck bill next week.


 
Shoot. You should be fine!


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## Modifiedmark (Sep 29, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> Thought I would bring this one back up since I have a 3700 here now in need of fuel lines. Big thanks to ModifiedMark for taking the time to make this thread for us.
> 
> EDIT:
> I am going to make one modification to Mark's approach since I do not have a duck bill around here. I am going to use the barb to hold the vent line in the tank but I will use a coarse threaded screw in the opposite end as a vent, not the best but it will get me through the weekend in Butner and I will find a duck bill next week.


 
Yes you will be fine with the right sized screw, dont go to big with it or it will seal the line off though. It will drip a drop or two when the saw is in certain positions but not a big deal.


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## TN-ELK (Sep 30, 2011)

Followed Marks directions last night on my 4000 and it worked like a charm.


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## timberdollars (Sep 30, 2011)

*Fuel line with threaded metric rod*

Yes the screws work great, I place TWO 4mm/5mm ready rod chunks or studs cut 1/4 " long. (found in nut bolt section of hardware stores) I place one near fitting and one at other end. I have had to do this on lots of my Partner S55/F55 saws with vent lines as they are always missing there tank fitting and duck bill assembly.

No issues at all with venting or pressure leaks, may be too much restriction for larger cube saws but not showing yet.

Great tutorial on lines, all applies to Partners too as tank is similar and lines the same, Weedeater line kit works great for both if you need the fitting or line.


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## Modifiedmark (Sep 30, 2011)

The only problem with using the screw for the vent line is without the double barb fitting in the line inside the tank is that the 3/16" OD line is too small for the vent hole in the tank. The barb is needed to swell the line to fit tight in the hole. 

I found that you will need a 117x211 line to fit the vent hole without a barb.


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## Roanoker494 (Sep 30, 2011)

Luckily enough my barb was still in the tank but my duck bill was a melted ball of goo. My 3700 started and ran like a champ today after turning the high side back about a 1/8, the plug was black as tar from being so rich.


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## mactodd (Oct 30, 2011)

*Vent barb part number*

I'm going through a PP375 and a PP335 right now. Found the barb in the PartsTree schematic for the 335.
Barb is PN 530024475. I think it's only $1.03 !!


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## redunshee (Oct 30, 2011)

Roanoker494 said:


> Luckily enough my barb was still in the tank but my duck bill was a melted ball of goo. My 3700 started and ran like a champ today after turning the high side back about a 1/8, the plug was black as tar from being so rich.


 
Yea, I like To get a nice brown color on my plug.


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## Eccentric (Sep 22, 2012)

I just did this job on my 3400 last weekend. Used 3/32"ID-3/16"OD line as that's what I had. Worked fine. The old lines were there, but hard and brittle. The vent 'double barb' fitting was there, along with the duckbill. It was installed backwards however. It was on top of (outside) the tank with the 'tail' end of the line slipped through the hole into the tank. The saw had "needs repair" written in sharpie on the rear handle. Between the gunked up carb and that backwards vent routing (which would cause a vacuum to build in the tank), I'm not surprised that the saw needed "repair". A carb cleaning and some new lines (plus a good overall degunking and a new spark plug) and it runs strong now. I should have taken a pic of the 'custom' vent routing before fixing it...


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## carabeno (Aug 8, 2013)

Thank you so much for this post. This is exactly what i need to fix up a Poulan Pro 305 I've been needing to get done for a while.


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## carabeno (Aug 8, 2013)

carabeno said:


> thank you so much for this post. This is exactly what i need to fix up a poulan pro 305 i've been needing to get done for a while.



It's aliiiiive! It's alllllliiiiiiiiiiiiivvvveeeee!


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## redunshee (Aug 8, 2013)

Congrats to you for being able to find this Thread. Btw the PP 305 is a great saw. Same as the Poulan 3000 and with a modded muffler might give a Husky 346XP OE a good run.
Bob


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## carabeno (Aug 8, 2013)

One of the hardest things for me was getting the fuel lines attached to the fittings and filters. I purchased Oregon fuel line, same size, from True Value. It seemed impossible at first, but then I decided to try and carefully heat up the ends of the line, stretch out the tips a bit to get it started, and then was able to heat them up a bit again and slide the filter/fittings right in place. Once it cools, and you don't have much time, it shrinks back up super tight.


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## redunshee (Aug 8, 2013)

In a tight fit I use a ballpoint pen and heat the line up with a heat gun. I then stretch it over the end of the pen and let it cool. Makes it easier to put the line on the carbor filter.


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## clintonior (Aug 9, 2013)

I just did the line in a Craftsman 3.4 and the duck bill was missing now im gonna have to find one soon. All the lines were brittle and cracked. to add to that does this saw have a line into the oil tank? if so im guessing that is also brittle and junk by now. mine leaks bar oil right by the chain catcher any tips? View attachment 308595
View attachment 308596


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## Modifiedmark (Aug 9, 2013)

clintonior said:


> I just did the line in a Craftsman 3.4 and the duck bill was missing now im gonna have to find one soon. All the lines were brittle and cracked. to add to that does this saw have a line into the oil tank? if so im guessing that is also brittle and junk by now. mine leaks bar oil right by the chain catcher any tips? View attachment 308595
> View attachment 308596



Any Poulan or Husqvarna dealer can get you the duckbill valves if they don't already have them in stock. I can help you with the oiler question but let's not sidetrack this thread with that. 

Post it in the Poulan thread. .


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## clintonior (Aug 9, 2013)

Can do sad news today my favorite saw shop closed their doors. was just there anyways ill have to try someone else now. Was going there to get a duckbill and hoping for some 55/51 covers ah well.


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## BigDee (Apr 23, 2014)

Threads like this make Arboristsite so valuable to people like me. Sincere gratitude and appreciation to Modifiedmark and all the others who consolidate and share what they have learned. Does anyone know if there is any move to restore the photos lost in the grand meltdown?


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## Michael Boggs (Sep 30, 2014)

Thanks to Mark and all. A Google search brought me to this awesome post and I was able to resurrect my 30 year old Poulan 3400.


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## ChrisS (Nov 1, 2017)

Hello mark,
Would be able to some how add the beginning of this thread again with the pictures? None of them are there and I am a definite hands on picture type of guy.


Chris


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## leecopland (Nov 1, 2017)

Today I'm having trouble with almost all pics on this thread. My thanks go out to mark et al for the info shared here.


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## Philanum (Oct 25, 2018)

Modifiedmark said:


> Seems fuel line issues are the fad now days and it seems new members are popping up more and more wanting help with fuel line replacements.
> 
> I did a brief how-to on this series of saws before but not thinking ahead I posted it in the Poulan thread where it's now buried in amongst 400 or so pages making it extremely difficult to find when needed.
> 
> ...


Why can't I see the images


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## hotshot (Oct 25, 2018)

About five years ago this AS website was hacked by linkbucks, and a lot of the pics were deleted from the threads.

Unfortunately this was one of them.


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