# Firewood Measuring Sticks



## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

Anyone who cuts firewood has seen or thought of some way to measure pieces into equal lengths. Some guys don't care. Some have limits based on the size of their stove. Guys who sell wood might want it to stack neatly.

There are a number of methods and homemade solutions that can be used, and many products offered for sale - some of these are more convenient than others, and some may work better than others in certain circumstances.

I received a sample of the "_Ott Accu-Stick Pro_" magnetic measuring device to try. This is a telescoping aluminum tube that is adjustable between 14 and 26-1/2 inches, which attaches to the guide bar with a powerful, rare earth magnet.





The measuring stick has a black, anodized finish, and etched markings. The tip of the stick has a bright yellow, hi-viz dot for visibility, and the base is 1-1/8 inches in diameter. Overall weight is 3.4 ounces.

A longer version (19 to 36 inches), and models with metric graduations are also shown on the manufacturer's website: http://www.3ott.com/ott-accu-stick.html

Philbert


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

*General*

The measuring stick looks and feels professionally made, with clear, accurate markings on the approximately half-inch diameter outer tube, and roughly 5/16 inch diameter inner tube. Length adjustment is simply by pulling the inner tube out, or pushing it back in. Despite this being stupidly simple, it was not clear to me at first because of a knurled nut / collar where the tubes meet, that I desperately wanted to turn (it doesn't).

Once set, the length stays set due to internal resistance. Mine felt and sounded a bit scratchy at first, and although Ott says that it is not needed, it moved more smoothly after a few drops of 3-In-One oil were drizzled down the shaft.

Philbert


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

The magnet is _STRONG_ - I did not try to measure the pull force, but it wanted to stick to _everything_, including things that I did not intend. Keep this away from your credit cards, electronics, etc.! It held really solid to the guide bars I tested it on.





The Accu-stick attaches to either side of the guide bar, depending on whether the user is cutting from the right or left end of the log. It is very simple to place and remove, unlike some measuring sticks which screw onto bar mounting nuts or clamp to saw handles, for example. No modifications to the saw are required, and it can be used on multiple saws or shared among multiple users.




For simple cuts, the measuring stick can remain on the saw while bucking. The manufacturer recommends that it be nestled between the teeth of bucking dogs (if present) to minimize any interference. If preferred, the magnetic stick can be used to make marking cuts along a log, then quickly and easily removed for cutting. No calibration is needed, other than glancing at the etched markings to be sure that nothing moved.




The aluminum material should be quite durable, and minimize damage to cutting teeth should it somehow make contact with the chain. While the black finish looks nice, I like the reflective tape used on the company's Hi-Viz Scrench http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-flat-scrench.304350/ which would make it easier to locate in a low light, high sawdust location. A trip to the hardware store should make that mod easy to do.

I have limited firewood to buck right now, and hope to take this to an upcoming GTG fairly soon, where we can give it a good work out and get some other opinions.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 23, 2017)

I generally use the saw's bar as a gauge. However, this looks interesting. I have found that cutting all the rounds to the same length that I eventually split means a lot. If they all are cut to 17-1/2" I can pack my truck's 6' bed with four rows of split logs as tight as a sardine can and the customers are really impressed. I have one customer who is so picky that if any log over 18" long shows up, he hands it back to me.


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 23, 2017)

I used to use my 16" bar which gave me a nice 15" cut.

Now that I cut 20", I made a tap n cut out of 1" pvc filled with marking chalk.

I do like the magnetic stick...


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 23, 2017)

tried going to their website but Firefox is giving me an "expired security certificate" for their site.

EDIT: Got it.


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> tried going to their website but Firefox is giving me an "expired security certificate" for their site.
> EDIT: Got it.


They also sell on eBay, but their site helps to describe the different models that they offer.

Philbert


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 23, 2017)

Thanks.


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 23, 2017)

Thats an interesting sales model for a relatively low cost item. Went through the process of purchasing direct from their site and the payment gets handled via a phone call....


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 23, 2017)

Just an observation. The strong magnet could be attached on either side of the bar. That's a plus in my book. You could switch it to either side at any time.

As Philbert said, "The Accu-stick attaches to either side of the guide bar, depending on whether the user is cutting from the right or left end of the log. It is very simple to place and remove, unlike some measuring sticks which screw onto bar mounting nuts or clamp to saw handles, for example. No modifications to the saw are required, and it can be used on multiple saws or shared among multiple users."

That's a huge plus, not to mention the ease of adjusting the length. LMOL just handed me $40 for Valentines Day next month. I may have to consider this.


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> Just an observation. The strong magnet could be attached on either side of the bar. That's a plus in my book. You could switch it to either side at any time. . . . That's a huge plus . . . .


The simplicity of the magnet is also attractive (no pun intended). Some other products require you to use special bar nuts, or take more time to install or remove. This lets you switch it between saws (unless you have some NASA designed, super lightweight, graphite bar), or remove it quickly if you need the saw for something else.

As mentioned, there are a number of firewood measuring sticks offered for sale, along with many homemade versions. These often use fiberglass, wooden, or threaded rods, or even springs which project out from one side of the saw or the other, and attach in many different ways.

One challenge is making the device simple and convenient to use, while remaining secure, and not getting in the way. Another is making the length of the measuring stick adjustable. Safety, including accidental chain contact, is also a concern.

I wanted to compare the Ott Accu-Stick against a more basic design: the 'Woodcutter's Helper' fiberglass measuring stick. This 16 inch, non-adjustable device also attaches to the guide bar with a rare earth magnet, and is used the same way.


Philbert


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 23, 2017)

Ordered via Ebay. Thats my first Ebay transaction in a long time.


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

The *Woodcutter's Helper* comes in 6 different versions, including adjustable models that use a threaded steel or nylon rod with an indicator disk that marks the desired length. A tape measure is used to position the indicator disk, and the remaining portion of the threaded rod extends beyond this point. http://www.chainsawaccessories.biz/

The steel rod made me a bit nervous, and I definitely prefer the telescoping design of the Accu-Stick over having extra rod sticking out past the indicator. But the basic model was appealing due to its simplicity. It consists of an orange, 3/16 inch diameter fiberglass rod, with a rare earth magnet base, and a plastic tip at the other end. There is also a very similar looking competitor, with a confusingly similar sounding name: the 'Firewood Buddy' http://firewood-buddy.com/




The magnet and chromed steel base on the Woodcutter's Helper is slightly smaller than that on the Accu-Stick, but the device is also lighter in weight (1.6 ounces), and it seems to hold adequately. Easy on; easy off. No calibration needed. 




If you want to cut wood shorter than 16 inches, simply place a piece of tape on the fiberglass rod, leaving a small 'flag', making it easier to see. A contrasting color tape might help. Or buy a few sticks and cut them each to different lengths (color code them for identification?).




If you want to cut wood longer than 16 inches (say 24 inches), place the tape halfway (12 inches in this case), and use this to mark the halfway point, cutting through the wood every other time. 




Philbert


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

Comparing these two products side-by-side really seems to cover the range of this approach from deluxe (Accu-Stick) to basic (Woodcutter's Helper) versions.



A handy person might make their own version, with rare earth magnets and some fiberglass fence posts or driveway markers; this might make sense if they were the type of person to frequently lose these types of things. The low price of the basic model makes it attractive to some. The deluxe version has a professional quality feel with additional features, and would make a nice gift for a woodcutter who appreciates nice tools, even if they buy it for them self.



CaseyForrest said:


> Ordered via Ebay. Thats my first Ebay transaction in a long time.


Be sure to post your comments and experience with it here in this thread!

Philbert


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 23, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Be sure to post your comments and experience with it here in this thread!
> 
> Philbert



Certainly. Looks to be here by next Monday. But probably wont get to use it till it gets cold again.


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## midwest_170 (Jan 23, 2017)

2x4 and a can of spray paint. Mark out enough for a tank of gas and start cutting. Refuel and mark out some more, give me a little break from running the saw. That thing looks cumbersome on a saw, probably wouldn't use it if someone gave me 1.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 23, 2017)

Philbert, this warning seems rather ridiculous:

*Be careful and aware that the tool can get very hot during use and after you remove it from the chainsaw! Always wear safety gloves when removing this tool from your chainsaw to avoid getting burned or picking up a hot tool. Excessive heat can also be avoided by using this tool for only saw marking and removing when a visual sight mark on the log or wood has been established. *

I do not see how this is possible with normal chain saw cutting. My bar never gets really hot unless I run out of bar oil or the oil pump clogs up and regardless, I do not see how that much heat could be transferred to the Accu-Stick. Any comments on this?


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 23, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> Philbert, this warning seems rather ridiculous:
> 
> *Be careful and aware that the tool can get very hot during use and after you remove it from the chainsaw! Always wear safety gloves when removing this tool from your chainsaw to avoid getting burned or picking up a hot tool. Excessive heat can also be avoided by using this tool for only saw marking and removing when a visual sight mark on the log or wood has been established. *
> 
> I do not see how this is possible with normal chain saw cutting. My bar never gets really hot unless I run out of bar oil or the oil pump clogs up and regardless, I do not see how that much heat could be transferred to the Accu-Stick. Any comments on this?



Maybe from the muffler.... Aluminum is a pretty good sink..


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## litefoot (Jan 23, 2017)

Very good review and pics, Philbert. Looks like an interesting idea. But I think this "stick" might encourage someone to cut wood without a helper to pre-mark the cuts. Cutting solo is not a good practice. So I'm wondering if this product is creating a worse habit than the problem it's solving.


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## Relex (Jan 23, 2017)

My Mingo Marker works great. 

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> Philbert, this warning seems rather ridiculous: . . .


Lawyers. . . .



litefoot said:


> Very good review and pics, Philbert. Looks like an interesting idea. But I think this "stick" might encourage someone to cut wood without a helper to pre-mark the cuts.


That's up to the user. It does not prevent anyone from cutting with a buddy. Even when I have cut with dozens of people around (e.g. GTGs or charity firewood cutting events), we each marked our own cuts. Sometimes I have worked with a buddy to pick up the wood that the other person cuts, or to stage logs onto a saw buck to keep the actual cutting time 'up'.

What I like about this measuring tool is that I don't have to use a lumber crayon (or spray paint), a separate measuring stick to put down (and misplace), repetitively turn the saw sideways to measure with the bar, etc., along with the convenience factors noted. If you prefer to measure and mark first, the videos attached to the manufacturers' websites show how to mark using saw kerfs, before returning to cut all the way through.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 23, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Maybe from the muffler.... Aluminum is a pretty good sink..


Could be and yes, a good point. Many guys port their mufflers straight out when they modify them. The exhaust gases might blow right onto the stick.


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> Could be and yes, a good point. Many guys port their mufflers straight out when they modify them. The exhaust gases might blow right onto the stick.


Wonder if that would melt the fiberglass rod? Might have to add a heat shield (aluminum tape) on a hot saw.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 23, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Wonder if that would melt the fiberglass rod?
> 
> Philbert


Yes, I'll bet it easily could if the exhaust gases were right on it. I've seen guys drill holes in Stihl MS 361 mufflers straight out, a saw that begs for muff mods. Even the shark gill mods on the sides of the muffler could produce hot exhaust gas that would hit that measuring stick if mounted on the left.


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

Then again, the guys who use snowmobile engine modded hot saws are probably not the target market for a product like this . . . (might look too much like curb feelers!).

Philbert


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## kevin j (Jan 23, 2017)

I made these a few years back to see if I would use them.

1. Magnet and threaded rod, adjusable. Not too great. Heavy, and rigid tube was prone flip off the magnet to bar if the end snagged brush. 

2. Second version, larger magnet, and spring connecton epoxied at the base. Lighter, more forgiving of snags. 

Overall, I don't use them much. Usually I jusgt eyeball. If important, I measure the first couple rounds, then my eye is recalibrated and away I go. But many years on the drafting board refined my ability to judge dimensions.


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## Philbert (Jan 23, 2017)

*I Modded Mine!*

I really like the sleek, black finish, but I liked the reflective feature of their flat scrench more - makes it easier to find in a pile of sawdust or leaves. So I applied some reflective tape that I had in the shop:






kevin j said:


> I made these a few years back . . .


Yeah, the design is pretty simple for the fixed length model. Part of what makes this model work is the rare earth magnet, which the manufacturer says has a 50 pound rating, combined with a very lightweight rod (hollow aluminum on the _Accu-Stick_, and fiberglass on the _Woodcutter's Helper_). It's easy to see how any guide that sticks out could get snagged by brush. I would expect to use this in a cleared area, with a saw buck, at a log pile, etc.

Philbert


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 24, 2017)

I also just mostly use the saw bar. I'm usually cutting up a fair sized windfall where it lays, so taking the next step sideways down the tree by firstly turning the saw sideways & resting it on the tree has become sort of a natural movement. Once you replant your feet, eye up your saw blade reference mark to where it hits the tree, then turn the saw back around & start cutting. Goes pretty quick.

Depends on your situation though. If cutting on a pile of logs & moving around on it quite a bit, I could see where this would come in handy. Doesn't happen that often, but I do some of that once in a while too - hmmmm....


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## waross (Jan 24, 2017)

I just use an old broom handle. I have it cut to length of 20" (perfect size for my woodstove) and put it in my left hand, place against log, look, grab saw with both hands and go. No reason to complicate this with fancy contraptions.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## Marshy (Jan 24, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> Philbert, this warning seems rather ridiculous:
> 
> *Be careful and aware that the tool can get very hot during use and after you remove it from the chainsaw! Always wear safety gloves when removing this tool from your chainsaw to avoid getting burned or picking up a hot tool. Excessive heat can also be avoided by using this tool for only saw marking and removing when a visual sight mark on the log or wood has been established. *
> 
> I do not see how this is possible with normal chain saw cutting. My bar never gets really hot unless I run out of bar oil or the oil pump clogs up and regardless, I do not see how that much heat could be transferred to the Accu-Stick. Any comments on this?



Dull chain? Dull chain can make the bar really hot, enough to burn your hand if you touch it right after a cut. Even normal cutting can cause a fair amount of heat on the bar especially in long cuts.


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 24, 2017)

Looks like 'firewood-buddy' isn't being sold at the moment, btw...


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## reddogrunner (Jan 24, 2017)

Wow, if I want precise I use a modified tape measure ( to stick on end of log) and a lumber crayon in YELLOW. Works amazing. Take 20 seconds and mark the whole log and then cut away. Works great on the bigger logs. Smaller stuff I just eyeball. I don't want to cut through a bigger log more than I have to. small stuff if it's too long I just throw it back in the saw buck. No big deal.


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## Rockjock (Jan 24, 2017)

I have been using a magnetic pick up tool. 2.99
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/magnetic-pick-up-tool/A-p8718389e


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## ChoppyChoppy (Jan 24, 2017)

litefoot said:


> Very good review and pics, Philbert. Looks like an interesting idea. But I think this "stick" might encourage someone to cut wood without a helper to pre-mark the cuts. Cutting solo is not a good practice. So I'm wondering if this product is creating a worse habit than the problem it's solving.



Why? I work alone quite often. As far as length, after a few weeks of cutting wood you'll get +- 1" without measuring.


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 24, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Why? I work alone quite often. As far as length, after a few weeks of cutting wood you'll get +- 1" without measuring.



+1.

'Helper' - what's that?



When I'm heading to the woods, I do tell someone exactly where I'm going, and for how long. But I'm pretty well always going alone.


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## Rockjock (Jan 24, 2017)

NSMaple1 said:


> +1.
> 
> 'Helper' - what's that?
> 
> ...



A helper to he or she that gets the coffee and or lunch .


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## NSMaple1 (Jan 24, 2017)

NSMaple1 said:


> Looks like 'firewood-buddy' isn't being sold at the moment, btw...



Ok, maybe it is. Found it on Ebay with a Google search, but searching for it while on Ebay it didn't turn up for me. Huh.


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## Philbert (Jan 24, 2017)

Rockjock said:


> I have been using a magnetic pick up tool. 2.99


Funny thing is that I have a variety of those around my shop, but your post reminded me that I can now use my _Accu-Stick_ as a pick-up tool on steroids (50# rated pull). More than enough to pick up a dropped scrench, or to find a bar nut in a pile of chips! Talk about multi-tasking!
_
I wonder if it will help me find nails in logs . . . .?_

Philbert

_EDIT: I just used it to find a .325 pre-set that dropped on the floor and rolled under a cabinet. Save!!!_


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## Rockjock (Jan 24, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Funny thing is that I have a variety of those around my shop, but your post reminded me that I can now use my _Accu-Stick_ as a pick-up tool on steroids (50# rated pull). More than enough to pick up a dropped scrench, or to find a bar nut in a pile of chips! Talk about multi-tasking!
> _
> I wonder if it will help me find nails in logs . . . .?_
> 
> Philbert



I use a stud finder for that.. seems to work pretty good!


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## LoveStihlQuality (Jan 24, 2017)

Relex said:


> My Mingo Marker works great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk


Next purchase. So far turn nephew loose with a plastic post with marked at 16" and marking paint. After a while he is definitely 'hi vis'.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


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## Philbert (Jan 24, 2017)

LoveStihlQuality said:


> Next purchase.


Please post your comments, suggestions, critique, complaints, experience, etc. here, after you have had the chance to try it!

Philbert


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## Erik B (Jan 24, 2017)

I bought a Mingo Marker this past summer and I like it. There was a bit of a learning curve with it along with some paint sprayed where it was not needed...operator error. With my 69 year old bod I really enjoy having a reason to put down the saw for a few minutes before continuing with the bucking. I also do not have calibrated eyeballs so I need help with measuring the size of the blocks I cut. I am not in any big hurry to get the wood cut since I only am cutting for myself.


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## hedge hog (Jan 25, 2017)

The mingo is fast ,right on even the curvy never straight hedge
As fast as you can walk beside the log it will be marked
But it is hard on even the pro saws I have 
They never get idle 
like using you bar or a rod to measure with


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 25, 2017)

Well, you might look at it this way. This past year I worked with a tree company and collected their big logs at job sites and hauled it to my firewood drop site. They wanted to know if they could cut some to length for me. I said, "Sure, amigos. Cut the rounds all between 16" and 18" in length. Comprende?"

The next load I picked up ranged anywhere from 6" to 28". And, the cross sections of the logs were usually shaped like trapezoids or parallelograms.


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## Philbert (Jan 25, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> The next load I picked up ranged anywhere from 6" to 28".


Maybe you need to buy them some_ Accu-Sticks_?

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 25, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Maybe you need to buy them some_ Accu-Sticks_?
> 
> Philbert


That and perhaps a lesson on chain sharpening so that both sides of the chain are equally sharp. Some of those side angles were over 30 degrees off the vertical. I gave up splitting several of these logs until I cut them square and saved the scrap wedges for kindling. That made the short logs even shorter, of course.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 25, 2017)

waross said:


> I just use an old broom handle. I have it cut to length of 20" (perfect size for my woodstove) and put it in my left hand, place against log, look, grab saw with both hands and go. No reason to complicate this with fancy contraptions.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk



Same here. I dtried the mounted ones, flopping saw back and forth, pre marking. Pre marking does not work as one has to constantly make adjustments when coming to crotches limbs, bend in log, etc. 

My stick is a 16" section of 1/2 or 3/4" pvc pipe. light, white and easy to find when you need it. I cut several at a time and carry spares. Don't waste a lot of time looking for a lost one.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 25, 2017)

ValleyFirewood said:


> Why? I work alone quite often. As far as length, after a few weeks of cutting wood you'll get +- 1" without measuring.



Not me. Tried it many times. small guage stuff (limbs xmall logs) I cut too long, big stuff - too short.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 25, 2017)

NSMaple1 said:


> +1.
> 
> 'Helper' - what's that?
> 
> ...



Samed here except there is noone left at home to tell. I have a cell phone with me but it is useless (no service out there) and just signed up with a "panic buttong" outfit - also useless out there. I havve some friends that will come looking but by the time they think it is necessary it will be too late. At my age, dying with a saw in my hand and log on top of me is a "good thing". Beats being warehoused in an old folks home.


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 25, 2017)

Rockjock said:


> A helper to he or she that gets the coffee and or lunch .



Now if he/she was bringing the beer...


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## Philbert (Jan 25, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> . . . I cut them square and saved the scrap wedges for kindling.


Short wood burns. It just does not stack as pretty. 
I keep short pieces in produce boxes from the warehouse clubs, or Rubbermaid style totes.

If I was selling firewood, I would be more picky about the exact length and appearance. For me personally, I want the wood to stack reasonably well, and not bee too big for my fireplace insert.

Philbert


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## Rockjock (Jan 25, 2017)

turnkey4099 said:


> Now if he/she was bringing the beer...


Beer is not permitted while cutting LOL Oddlyt while I worked in Germany there was a beer vending machine in the lunch room.. also a case or 3 was in the server room as it was always kept quite cool!


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## turnkey4099 (Jan 26, 2017)

Rockjock said:


> Beer is not permitted while cutting LOL Oddlyt while I worked in Germany there was a beer vending machine in the lunch room.. also a case or 3 was in the server room as it was always kept quite cool!



I was in Germany for 6 years (2 tours1962-70). Got addicted to warm german beer. By the time I left, the GI bars were serving cold beer but had an imersion heater to put in the mug for those who liked it warm. .


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## Little Al (Jan 26, 2017)

Several years ago I did a DIY one a magnet ( Bought of Fleabay) & a length of GRP tube 8mm in dia. Magnet epoxied to end of tube, with length marking & different coloured tape/paint rings at the different lengths, as with a good few of unusual bits of kit It grew a pair of legs & walked off one day I hope the Bu**er that walked of with it finds it useful


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## Little Al (Jan 26, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Maybe from the muffler.... Aluminum is a pretty good sink..


As said if your saw has a front exiting muffler the alu tube could get hot, also if your saw is not fitted with dawg's the saw pulling itself into the wood will clatter into the measuring stick


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 26, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Short wood burns. It just does not stack as pretty.
> I keep short pieces in produce boxes from the warehouse clubs, or Rubbermaid style totes.
> 
> If I was selling firewood, I would be more picky about the exact length and appearance. For me personally, I want the wood to stack reasonably well, and not bee too big for my fireplace insert.
> ...


The owner of my drop site property only burns short wood. His stove is a top loader and gobbles it up like popcorn. So, he gets every piece of short wood that I have left over after I cut all my logs the same length. It's a fabulous arrangement, but his outside woodpile is always just a random collection, not really a stack, and he usually just carries the wood inside using a recycling bin. Regardless, his stove burns hotter than a $2 pistol.


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## Philbert (Jan 26, 2017)

Little Al said:


> As said if your saw has a front exiting muffler the alu tube could get hot, also if your saw is not fitted with dawg's the saw pulling itself into the wood will clatter into the measuring stick


Maybe those guys would want to place the magnetic stick on the other side of the guide bar?

Philbert


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## Ted Jenkins (Jan 26, 2017)

The magnet stick is OK, but it does not work well for me. I buy several bright colored 25' tapes and modify them to about 8' then I rivet a larger hook on the end. I take a felt marker and mark with two colors a 18'' sequence and another for 16''. For logs in the 4'' diameter I guess, but for larger logs I mark with some weathered drywall up to 6 cuts. After cutting a few 18'' rounds I can compare my free cuts with the measured cuts. I try to go through a whole pile of wood marking as many cuts as possible and then do not have to stop and start so often. Often I can run a haft tank of gas before having to stop and mark more. thanks


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 26, 2017)

Ted Jenkins said:


> The magnet stick is OK, but it does not work well for me. I buy several bright colored 25' tapes and modify them to about 8' then I rivet a larger hook on the end. I take a felt marker and mark with two colors a 18'' sequence and another for 16''. For logs in the 4'' diameter I guess, but for larger logs I mark with some weathered drywall up to 6 cuts. After cutting a few 18'' rounds I can compare my free cuts with the measured cuts. I try to go through a whole pile of wood marking as many cuts as possible and then do not have to stop and start so often. Often I can run a haft tank of gas before having to stop and mark more. thanks


Your system is similar to what the loggers use around here for longer lengths. They cut their logs 8.0' to 9.o' before loading them onto the flatbed, marking first with a spray can of paint. Most of their sales go into making pallets, but they save a few half-price uglies now and then for me. When I buy logs from them, I can then divide them all into five lengths for firewood and have practically no waste. Occasionally I can get six out. A visual sighting for measuring is usually all that I need -- that and my bar on the saw.

I should comment that one time they dropped a saw on a paint spray can in the truck bed and the can blew up. I suddenly earned a $20 clean up job on that saw along with a few beers.


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## Philbert (Jan 26, 2017)

Ted Jenkins said:


> The magnet stick is OK, but it does not work well for me.


Nothing works best for everyone, or every situation. Good that you found what works for you, and thanks for sharing it with others!

Philbert


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 28, 2017)

Showed up today. It's not as obtrusive as I thought it would be. I like it. I'll fit it to a saw when we get back from swimming. 


Sent from a field


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## Woody912 (Jan 28, 2017)

litefoot said:


> Very good review and pics, Philbert. Looks like an interesting idea. But I think this "stick" might encourage someone to cut wood without a helper to pre-mark the cuts. Cutting solo is not a good practice. So I'm wondering if this product is creating a worse habit than the problem it's solving.



cut by myself for the last 40 yrs.


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 29, 2017)

2 saws for size comparison. First 3 pictures are a 241 with 12" bar. Last 3 are a 661 with 25" bar. The measuring stick is set at 20".

My initial impression when I opened the envelope was "cool." It wasn't as large as I had envisioned. It appears to be built well and the magnet is very strong. There shouldn't be any movement issues unless you physically knock it off. The laser etched markings shouldn't wear off.

If I could change one thing it would be the friction fit for the adjustment. It feels like its metal on metal but so far I haven't noticed any of the powder coat being effected by the friction fit.

Its made using Easton tubing which reminded me of a vendor I used some years ago for a business I was running... I am not affiliated with this company...

http://www.questoutfitters.com/tent_poles.htm

It wouldn't be difficult to fashion something from any of the tent poles they have.























Sent from a field


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## Philbert (Jan 29, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> If I could change one thing it would be the friction fit for the adjustment. It feels like its metal on metal


Drizzle a few drops of _3-In-One_ oil a into the joint and work it back a forth a few times - eliminated the 'scratchy' sound on mine.

And maybe think about some high-viz tape, in case you drop it through those deck boards!

Anxious to hear how you like using it.

Philbert


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 29, 2017)

Good idea... Ill give it a shot.


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## Wood Doctor (Jan 29, 2017)

Casey, I'd love to see those pics in post #63 right above your last sentence ("Sent from a field") but they are ignored by my computer and cannot be opened. Any idea what format those files are or what I need to download in order to look at them?


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 29, 2017)

They are JPEGs uploaded from tapatalk. Perhaps you have some setting somewhere that wont allow images from tapatalk.


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## CaseyForrest (Jan 29, 2017)

Try this... If this works, Ill do all of them...


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## Philbert (Jan 29, 2017)

Looks secure, nestled in those dawgs!

Philbert


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 11, 2017)

Finally got the chance to put this to work. 

Works as intended. BUT, your saw needs to have dogs long enough that the stick can nestle into them and still have the dogs be functional. Obviously the 241 dogs won't cut it. Here is the result of using it in the 362....






That's the result of the magnet sticking out past the dogs and using the magnet as a point of leverage.


Sent from a field


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## Sandhill Crane (Feb 11, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> I'll fit it to a saw when we get back from swimming.



Strong east winds lately. Has blown most of the ice flow off shore out into Lake Michigan. Still a bit cold for swimming though isn't it?
Edit: I just filled the wood stove...


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 11, 2017)

Sandhill Crane said:


> Strong east winds lately. Has blown most of the ice flow off shore out into Lake Michigan. Still a bit cold for swimming though isn't it?
> Edit: I just filled the wood stove...



Not when you're hard core. I usually get in the water at Kite Fest.


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 12, 2017)

Reading this I got all excited ( I do that a lot) went to Amazon ordered 3-4 1.5 inch diameter round rare earth magnets. The add says they will hold up to 70 pounds each.


Mine have a metal housing with the magnet nestled inside the magnet has a small hole in the center big enough for a normal size drywall screw. Now I need to affix something to the magnet and I will be all set. Any ideas what to use for a rod? I envision a rod the right length I then drill a small hole up inside one end then fill the hole with epoxy and put a maybe 2 inch drywall screw through the magnet and into the drilled hole in the rod to hold it together. I know I can buy one all built for under $15.00 but if I play my cards right I should be able to build one for right around the cost of several dozen already built ones !!! ha ha.


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## turnkey4099 (Feb 12, 2017)

Jeff Lary said:


> Reading this I got all excited ( I do that a lot) went to Amazon ordered 3-4 1.5 inch diameter round rare earth magnets. The add says they will hold up to 70 pounds each.View attachment 557723
> View attachment 557724
> View attachment 557725
> Mine have a metal housing with the magnet nestled inside the magnet has a small hole in the center big enough for a normal size drywall screw. Now I need to affix something to the magnet and I will be all set. Any ideas what to use for a rod? I envision a rod the right length I then drill a small hole up inside one end then fill the hole with epoxy and put a maybe 2 inch drywall screw through the magnet and into the drilled hole in the rod to hold it together. I know I can buy one all built for under $15.00 but if I play my cards right I should be able to build one for right around the cost of several dozen already built ones !!! ha ha.



Wood dowel. May be too fragil if small diameter. Hollow tubing with short piece of dowel inside?


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 12, 2017)

Maybe I thought of a fishing rod or maybe a driveway marker or maybe a fiberglass fence post?


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## old guy (Feb 12, 2017)

Aluminum arrow shaft


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 12, 2017)

That sounds good too


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## Philbert (Feb 12, 2017)

Jeff Lary said:


> Reading this I got all excited ( I do that a lot) went to Amazon ordered 3-4 1.5 inch diameter round rare earth magnets. . . . Now I need to affix something to the magnet and I will be all set. Any ideas what to use for a rod?


Patience grasshopper . . .

Keep an eye on this thread. I too was struck by the challenge, and have been working on some '_home brew_' versions.

Was hoping to wait until they were finished and tested, but might have to make some in-progress posts now!

Philbert


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## rarefish383 (Feb 12, 2017)

Car antenna so you can change lengths, Joe.


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## Philbert (Feb 12, 2017)

rarefish383 said:


> Car antenna so you can change lengths, Joe.


And frequencies!

Philbert


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## rwoods (Feb 12, 2017)

How about a cheap telescopic magnetic pickup tool with your favorite lengths marked? I just eyeball my firewood but the pickup tool goes with me and is really useful for finding nuts and screws that disappear.

Ron


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## Philbert (Feb 12, 2017)

rwoods said:


> How about a cheap telescopic magnetic pickup tool with your favorite lengths marked?


Since posting this thread here, and on '_another forum_', I have received many comments - this idea has come up a few times!
_EDIT: See Post #33 in this thread by @Rockjock_

As long as you have confidence that it will remain attached to the saw, and the the length will not change, regardless of vibration, getting bumped, etc.

The magnets on the measuring sticks I described are much stronger than any cheap pick-up tool that I have seen (reported 40 to 50 pounds), although, I _have_ used the telescoping _Ott Accu-Stick_ a few times as a pick up tool in my shop, after realizing how it sticks to _everything_!!!
(turnabout is fair play)

Philbert


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## Philbert (Feb 12, 2017)

*Home Brew*

****I want to emphasize that it is simpler, and maybe faster, to buy one of the commercially available measuring sticks described on the first page of this thread, versus making your own. I am 'fiscally conservative', yet find each reasonably priced for the quality and utility received.****​
That said, there is a certain attraction (pardon the pun) to making your own stuff. And this forum is full of creative guys who like to tinker. I have been messing around with some things, and @Jeff Lary kind of forced my reveal early.

My goal was to see if I could make these using parts that were _easily_ available to _most_ people, using basic tools. No lathes, no mills, no welding (can destroy rare earth magnets by the way), etc. Here is what I found so far . . .

Magnets
Rare earth ('neodymium') magnets are crazy strong. Embedding them in a steel cup further focuses and magnifies the effective force. I looked for ones approximately 1 inch diameter and rated at 40 to 50 pounds of force (varies with manufacturer). I found some on eBay and Amazon, either with a tapered center hole, or an attached post (threaded for a 4mm hook). $3 - $4 each (shipped)




Rods
Different options may be available to different folks. @merc_man had some hollow, aluminum arrow shafts and used those. I rescued some hollow, fiberglass poles, from a cheap tent that someone was throwing out (replacement tent poles are also sold by some sporting goods retailers). Local home centers had reflective, solid, fiberglass driveway markers ($1/ea on sale; twice that much regularly!!! They are all over the place in Spring after the snow melts). Thinner shafts on the driveway markers with the larger, round reflectors on the top. Fiberglass rods are also available as electric fence posts at farm stores.




Philbert


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## Philbert (Feb 12, 2017)

*continued . . .
*
Attaching the rod to the magnet was the next challenge, As noted, these magnets are crazy strong, and a lot of stress is placed on the junction when you remove it from the guide bar.

After considering a bunch of options, I am trying the following methods.

1) For the magnets with holes, a friend provided a bunch of .357 magnum shells with the used primers removed. I drilled and tapped these for a 1/2" long, #10, flat headed screw that sits flush with the magnet (see photo above). It will be epoxied in place, along with the fiberglass rod. I tried using a standard nut inside the shell, but it was too large to fit. I also tried a Pop-Rivet, but it stood proud of the magnet, and did not hold as securely.

2) For the magnets with a stem, I found some aluminum tubing that just fit at a local hobby shop. I will cut these into sleeves approximately 1 to 1-1/2" in length. I will rough up the stem of the magnet with a Dremel bit, and clean up the inside of the aluminum tubing with coarse steel wool on a drill mandrel, then epoxy with the rod, as above.



JB weld for epoxying the rods to the magnets; #10-24 tap; hole in wooden board, with saw kerf, to hold shells in vise while drilling and tapping; plastic 'screw protector' tips from local hardware store for covering cut ends of fiberglass rods; sticky glue to help keep tips on rods.

Philbert


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## merc_man (Feb 12, 2017)

Was out yesterday cutting and using the log measuring thing i made. I tried putting it a few inchs from end of the bar and that worked ausome. Never had to bend down to mark them, just walk down the tree and make marks and let the boy go to town bucking it up. Best tool in my opinion for marking the lenth.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


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## merc_man (Feb 12, 2017)

Heres the pics of the log measuring stick i made with the old arrow shafts. Thought i had pics on here too.












Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


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## rwoods (Feb 12, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Since posting this thread here, and on '_another forum_', I have received many comments - this idea has come up a few times!
> _EDIT: See Post #33 in this thread by @Rockjock
> 
> ..._
> ...




There goes my million dollar idea. I don't know Rockjock but he must be a pretty smart dude. 

Ron


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## litefoot (Feb 13, 2017)

Rockjock said:


> A helper to he or she that gets the coffee and or lunch .





ValleyFirewood said:


> Why? I work alone quite often. As far as length, after a few weeks of cutting wood you'll get +- 1" without measuring.





NSMaple1 said:


> +1.
> 
> 'Helper' - what's that?
> 
> ...



Let me tell you why I mentioned not working alone. I, like you, would cut alone at times, but rarely. I skipped the chaps at times. Essentially, every time we do something unsafe...and get away with it... we reinforce the belief that nothing will ever happen.

One day, I was bucking a large pile of pine with a 440 and stopped to touch up the chain. We were almost done with the long pieces, so my buddy told me to grab his 044 so we could get done quicker; an 044 with weak clutch springs (red flag). Long story, short: Off throttle, I stepped over a round and lifted my knee into the chain still spinning at high speed. It cut through my knee cap (no chaps) and severed the tendons running up the front of my leg; basically rendering my left leg useless. Luckily I didn't hit an artery and bleed out and I had "help" nearby to get me to a hospital. I had 6 hours of surgery to reconstruct everything and over a year of recovery.

Funny thing (well, not funny) was while recovering, my young neighbor across the street was bucking some ponderosa pine in his driveway...without chaps. I hobbled over in my soft leg cast and offered my chaps after telling him my story. He said "Nah, don't need them".

So far, there's not a law that makes you work in pairs or wear chaps. You can be as stupid as you want to be. So go ahead. Knock yourself out.


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## rarefish383 (Feb 13, 2017)

Philbert said:


> And frequencies!
> 
> Philbert


I tried XM but the non resistor wire on my plug sounded like a tach in my headphones!


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 13, 2017)

One plus on the Chaps I cut alone all the time and always have. I also use a cutters helmet Lebonville chainsaw chaps or loggers pants.
Philbert
I like the shell casing idea I was wondering how to connect a rod to the magnet this will work great. I have 6.5, 30:06 and 45-70 brass one of them should work well. I like the drilling an tapping idea as well. Thanks for the ideas.


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## Philbert (Feb 13, 2017)

litefoot said:


> Let me tell you why I mentioned not working alone.


Thanks for sharing your cautionary tale litefoot. Glad that you are OK now.

I would never encourage folks to cut alone, without PPE, or with a questionable saw.

These sticks, and similar devices, are just for measuring to consistent length - something that I have always done for myself, even when cutting with a large group.

Philbert


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## Philbert (Feb 13, 2017)

Jeff Lary said:


> I have 6.5, 30:06 and 45-70 brass one of them should work well.


Should make a high caliber measuring stick!

Philbert


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 13, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Should make a high caliber measuring stick!
> 
> Philbert


Yea I think you are right on "Target" with that one !


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## SeMoTony (Feb 13, 2017)

turnkey4099 said:


> Now if he/she was bringing the beer...


Alcohol & chainsaws are Baaaad combination from reports I've seen/heard!


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## jr27236 (Feb 13, 2017)

Philbert said:


> The *Woodcutter's Helper* comes in 6 different versions, including adjustable models that use a threaded steel or nylon rod with an indicator disk that marks the desired length. A tape measure is used to position the indicator disk, and the remaining portion of the threaded rod extends beyond this point. http://www.chainsawaccessories.biz/
> 
> The steel rod made me a bit nervous, and I definitely prefer the telescoping design of the Accu-Stick over having extra rod sticking out past the indicator. But the basic model was appealing due to its simplicity. It consists of an orange, 3/16 inch diameter fiberglass rod, with a rare earth magnet base, and a plastic tip at the other end. There is also a very similar looking competitor, with a confusingly similar sounding name: the 'Firewood Buddy' http://firewood-buddy.com/
> 
> ...



@Philbert the woodcutters helper comes with a disc thats on the fiberglass rod and slides to the length youd like your cuts (16") max out to the end. Of you want longer pieces you slide it to half the length and mark out twice, for example a 20" piece you set it for 10" from bar and mark twice down the log.
I like the metal one because you can adjust it outward to a greater length but I would feel it would be awkward to handle and when you toss it to the side( and you will lol) the high visability of the WC orange plus fiberglass is more durable to stepping on it. The WChelper also comes with that clip you can hang on a belt loop, but when I used it I just tossed it aside when not needed.


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## Philbert (Feb 13, 2017)

jr27236 said:


> @Philbert the woodcutters helper comes with a disc thats on the fiberglass rod and slides to the length youd like your cuts (16") max out to the end.


If you visit their website, you will see that they offer a variety of fixed length and adjustable models with fiberglass, nylon, and steel rods. The model that I chose was one of their most basic / least expensive styles (fixed length fiberglass rod and no disc - sold on ebay), to compare / contrast with the more deluxe, adjustable, aluminum, more expensive, '_Ott Accu-Stick Pro'_. 

I did exchange a few emails with the contact at Woodcutters Helper suggesting that they could do a better job on their website of clarifying the different models and choices that they offer, as well as distinguishing their products from competitors. I think that this would help their sales.

The sliding disc looks handy, assuming that it does not move. As noted earlier, I can just place a 'flag' of masking tape on the rod for the limited number of times that I am cutting at a different length.

(The steel rod makes me nervous when I think about accidental chain contact).

Philbert


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## jr27236 (Feb 13, 2017)

Ok. Didnt know that made different models couldnt imagine the point of selling the same one with or without the disc on it? What would be their savings .01


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 25, 2017)

Well I tried my hand at making a couple different measuring gadgets today. I made 2 different ones one using a magnet and one using a bar nut as a keeper. I bought 4 rare earth magnets for like 5 bucks on amazon last month. Last week I bought a driveway marker with a spring base 4' long for $5.00 and a fiberglass fence post for 2 dollars. The rest of the stuff I had.


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 25, 2017)

I took a bolt and ground the head down so when inside the magnet it would be below flush so as to set good and flat on the bar. Then I realized I had to have some way to screw it into the brass and into the rod. So I got out my Dremel and cut a slot into it for a straight head screwdriver.
Then I took a 30:06 spent brass and drilled and taped it for the bolt thread. I passed the bolt through the magnet and threaded it into the 06 shell for a test fit. Then I took it apart and covered the threads with JB weld I was going to use the Devcon but changed my mind.
I then measured and cut to length the orange rod and filled the 06 brass with JB weld. I took the rod and drilled a hole in its end so as to allow it to set down over the screw I was going to put up into the brass case so the rod would travel all the way to the base of the brass shell. Then I put the pieces together I placed painter tape over the brass to try to keep it clean ( have no idea why.

Next I made one from the white fence rod. I bent up some light weight steel and drilled a hole to fit down over the back bar bolt. Then I made a couple gussets to strengthen the flanges to keep it a bit more ridged. I did the same kind of thing using a shell casing and J.B weld this time though I used a countersink wood screw not a drywall screw but a good old rugged one. Then I drilled a hole into the end of the fence rod and put all the pieces together. I thought the magnet one would be my favorite but I can tell bu touching them and moving the saw around the second one the white one may be the best .


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## Philbert (Feb 25, 2017)

Thanks for sharing the details. Let us know how they work! 

The advantages of the magnetic version include: convenience; easy on/off; work either side of the bar; can mount near tip of bar for marking; work with any brand/model of saw; etc. 

But the bottom line is what works for you!

Philbert


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## Jeff Lary (Feb 25, 2017)

Yes sure thing,.. I agree about the magnet but my saws don't have bucking dogs so I wonder how well it will stay put.


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## merc_man (Feb 26, 2017)

I found it easyer to put marker out by end of bar. Walk along the log and make a quick little mark then pop off magnetic marking stick and start bucking. This way you dont have any extra bendong oer to mark them.


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## DavdH (Feb 26, 2017)

I use a 50' Spencer tape,or any measuring tape, the little red diamonds are to lay out studs for construction, they are every 16". Mark with a lumber crayon. Lots of the time it is _ocular estimation_ is just faster.


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## jr27236 (Feb 26, 2017)

Jeff Lary said:


> Yes sure thing,.. I agree about the magnet but my saws don't have bucking dogs so I wonder how well it will stay put.


Jeff- with the magnet it will stay unbelievably put, those rare earth magnets are unreal. I put mine nested in the dogs and didn't like it. I use mine like Mercman and put it out on the bar and tap my marks, remove and buck em up. No [emoji250] [emoji251] needed.


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## Rockjock (Feb 26, 2017)

You can always go high tech ......






use a stihl laser 2 in 1


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## CaseyForrest (Feb 26, 2017)

Gotta have it. Freekin laser beam on my saw....


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## Rockjock (Feb 26, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Gotta have it. Freekin laser beam on my saw....


I know right! I mean if you are gonna do it why not go all in LOL. I have seen this item work, and its pretty cool. Mind you my idea of the telescopic magnetic pick up will be added to the Jabroni © line of fine products for 2017.


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## 300zx_tt (Feb 26, 2017)

I just mark out 16" lines on a 12' 2x4 and lay it on the ground, I can buck 12 foot at a time or 9 rounds then move it. Simple cheap and easy.


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## aokpops (Feb 26, 2017)

Going to keep on using my eye . Sometimes use the bar


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## jr27236 (Feb 26, 2017)

300zx_tt said:


> I just mark out 16" lines on a 12' 2x4 and lay it on the ground, I can buck 12 foot at a time or 9 rounds then move it. Simple cheap and easy.


Who's walking around with a 12' 2x4 lol. I mean that would definitely be good in a yard i suppose, but having the dodad on the bar tip move and tap is very easy when scrounging. I used it today on the small pile I had. Just walked around tapping out marks. Pulled it off and dissected the pile in no time.


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## 300zx_tt (Feb 26, 2017)

jr27236 said:


> Who's walking around with a 12' 2x4 lol. I mean that would definitely be good in a yard i suppose, but having the dodad on the bar tip move and tap is very easy when scrounging. I used it today on the small pile I had. Just walked around tapping out marks. Pulled it off and dissected the pile in no time.



You walk to scrounge wood? That's nuts! 
I just leave the 2x4 in the flatbed, drop a tree back up to it take out the 2x4 and start bucking. Works perfect for my kind of scrounge, OP asked what we used to measure, so I told him what I use.


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## jr27236 (Feb 26, 2017)

300zx_tt said:


> You walk to scrounge wood? That's nuts!
> I just leave the 2x4 in the flatbed, drop a tree back up to it take out the 2x4 and start bucking. Works perfect for my kind of scrounge, OP asked what we used to measure, so I told him what I use.


I wasn't knocking it, for me that'd be very cumbersome. I only have a 6 foot bed dodge ram and a 1500 no less.


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## Philbert (Feb 26, 2017)

Different sticks for different kinds of of cutting.

I also do a lot of cutting 'in place' of limbs, etc. Very little cutting of full length logs. 

Philbert


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## Philbert (Mar 3, 2017)

Alignment

Although not a precision measuring tool, I do want to make the sticks somewhat straight.

On the version with the post magnet, I cut off and straightened a short section of the screwed in hook; just by chance it fit perfectly into the hollow, salvaged tent poles (including the metal ferrules) and will hold them straight while I epoxy a short tube around the joints. 



For the version with a hole in the magnet, I needed a way to align the narrower fiberglass rod with the larger diameter bullet shell. I bored holes into some scrap wood approximately the same diameter as the shell, then cut the wood blocks in half on a bandsaw. 






I wrapped masking tape around the rod until it was about the same diameter, and will clamp the assembly with some spring clamps while the epoxy sets.





Gotta love 'indigenous materials'!

Philbert


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## dancan (Mar 4, 2017)

Here's a couple of vids on Euro measuring sticks 



and this one at the 53 second mark


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## merc_man (Mar 4, 2017)

Those are kida cool too for measuring.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


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## Philbert (Mar 4, 2017)

dancan said:


> Here's a couple of vids on Euro measuring sticks


Problem with those Euro sticks is that they only measure in metric lengths . . .

Another method for the same goal. A few years back at a GTG we tried using something similar, that a member had made, using pieces of 1x2 wood and lumber crayons. The sticks in those videos look heavier duty.

Philbert


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## dancan (Mar 4, 2017)

I'd guess at a measure of 1 meter which is about 39 inches .
Shorten it to 32" if you want 16's , eyeball the cut in the middle .


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## Philbert (Apr 9, 2017)

Here's another version I saw yesterday (_also a gratuitous opportunity to take a shot of a bow bar!_)




This one has a nice end marker ('washer') that butts up against the end of the log, or drops into the last kerf marked, instead of relying on 'eyeing it up'. Comes in 16" - 24" sizes. 

This one uses a steel rod, which I do not like, since it could accidentally come in contact with a moving chain, and get exciting. But the website describes a carbon fiber shaft, which would be lighter and safer - must be newer models.

Note that his videos also caution against using the measuring stick while cutting, recommending it for marking only.
http://www.acc-u-mark.com/

Philbert


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## Philbert (Apr 9, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Alignment


(picking up where I left off: got distracted by other stuff - you know how that goes . . . ).

Glue up went pretty easy. I roughed up the fiberglass rods a bit with sandpaper, and cleaned the inside of the brass shell casings with a some ScotchBrite and a little acetone. The JB Weld is a bit thick for this; there is almost a hydraulic fit between the rods and the shell casings, so I had to 'work it in' to fill the space completely. I think that a thinner epoxy would be a better choice for this.



'Sleeve' / socket versions in the alignment blocks, L to R: post from white driveway marker, orange driveway marker, hollow tent pole



Note the (last minute) addition of plastic food wrap to prevent the possibility of gluing the fiberglass rods to the wood blocks with any excess epoxy!




Fini! The strips of reflective tape are to help find dropped sticks in the grass, snow, sawdust, etc. Some also mark out 14" and 12" lengths. Other lengths can be marked with temporary, masking tape flags, as noted above.




Reflectivity test, in our secret, subterranean, illumination laboratory . . .

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 10, 2017)

A quick note to CaseyForrest, et al. After you changed the file format on your Pics, I can now see all of them using Chrome. Thanks so much. I recently used one of the sticks when cutting rounds of mulberry for one of my friends to split at the work site with an 8-lb maul. His pickup truck has a 6' box. As he split, he loaded the logs on. When through, he had exactly four rows lying flat, packed like a sardine can. [4 x 18" = 72"]

He said, "Edwin, that measuring device works like a charm!"


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## mga (Apr 10, 2017)

Philbert said:


> and models with metric graduations



now we have to cut metric sizes?


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## Philbert (Apr 10, 2017)

mga said:


> now we have to cut metric sizes?


Only if they are metric trees ('African Rosewood', 'European Beech', 'Hungarian Oak', 'Canadian Spruce', 'Brazilian Cherry', 'Japanese Cedar', . . . )

Philbert


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## Philbert (Apr 10, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Alignment





Philbert said:


> (picking up where I left off . . . ).


The posts above show how I assembled the measuring sticks, with a hole through the base magnet, using a shell casing as an external sleeve for the rod.

I changed my plan for the magnets with the threaded boss and the hollow rods. I purchased 4mm machine screws; screwed them into the bases with a little thread lock; cut their heads off; bored the inside of the hollow shafts slightly to fit; and assembled with JB Weld (lots of masking tape to keep things clean). 




Since these rods (salvaged tent poles) already had a metal sleeve, I skipped the extra sleeve to tie things together, and just wrapped a little bit of aluminum duct sealing tape around the joint for aesthetics.




Today's graduating class! (all the same height, despite the smart phone photo).

Philbert


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## jerrycmorrow (Apr 10, 2017)

I been using a retractible 25' tape measure and chalk for decades. Walk along the tree and mark. No muss, no fuss. Really cant see working around a rod on my saw or having to keep up with it. Got enough stuff to lug to the woods. 
Bout five years ago i started buying children's sidewalk chalk. Cheap and bright. Some colors show better than others.
I also work alone; cut for myself only but do use ppe since near misses


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## Philbert (Apr 10, 2017)

jerrycmorrow said:


> I been using a retractible 25' tape measure and chalk for decades.


Different strokes for different folks!

I would prefer to not lug around a 25' tape measure and chalk, or to take the extra steps to mark a log, then look for the marks. But I understand your preference. Some of it may depend on the size of wood that you are cutting: I cut up a lot of branches, tops, 'Zogger wood', etc, which is difficult to mark, and which can be cut with these rods in place. The marking method might work better on larger diameter logs, where chalk or lumber crayon marks are easier to see, and where you need the full length of the bar.

One of the commercial vendors for these types of magnetic sticks provides a small, steel clip to attach to your belt loop. The strong magnet holds pretty tight if you don't mind the rod hanging off your belt. When I cut, I usually designate a 'parking spot' for fuel, oil, any tools, water, coat, etc., and the marking stick can sit and talk to the scabbard, etc. But I did put Hi-Viz tape all over these, just in case it gets dropped.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 11, 2017)

One thing you have to remember is that the measuring stick will not correct a chain or bar that pulls left or right through a big round. If the saw goes wacko on the way down a buck cut of a big log, you will not have uniform split lengths. Believe me, I have had to split a lot of trapezoid rounds and angular parallelograms in my years. They can flip right out of a log splitter.


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## CaseyForrest (Apr 11, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> A quick note to CaseyForrest, et al. After you changed the file format on your Pics, I can now see all of them using Chrome. Thanks so much. I recently used one of the sticks when cutting rounds of mulberry for one of my friends to split at the work site with an 8-lb maul. His pickup truck has a 6' box. As he split, he loaded the logs on. When through, he had exactly four rows lying flat, packed like a sardine can. [4 x 18" = 72"]
> 
> He said, "Edwin, that measuring device works like a charm!"



Must have been something with your browser. I didnt change any formats, just saved a couple to my computer and loaded them that way. They are still jpeg's

Glad it worked out, though!


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 11, 2017)

CaseyForrest said:


> Must have been something with your browser. I didn't change any formats, just saved a couple to my computer and loaded them that way. They are still jpeg's
> 
> Glad it worked out, though!


Computer to computer always seems to work better than phone to computer. Chrome is still the best browser I've ever used, but that may change. I usually use a third-party Pic site, such as Photobucket, but there are times when they drive me bonkers. I'd rather just upload Pic files from my PC, but some say that's too risky.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 12, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> One thing you have to remember is that the measuring stick will not correct a chain or bar that pulls left or right through a big round. If the saw goes wacko on the way down a buck cut of a big log, you will not have uniform split lengths. Believe me, I have had to split a lot of trapezoid rounds and angular parallelograms in my years. They can flip right out of a log splitter.



Or a crook in the log, limb, knot, etc. etc. Which is why I don't premark a log. Total waste of time as one has to make adjustments as they move down the log. Pre-marking will work IF the log is perfectly straight with no abnormalities - those don't happen where I have worked.


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 12, 2017)

turnkey4099 said:


> Or a crook in the log, limb, knot, etc. etc. Which is why I don't premark a log. Total waste of time as one has to make adjustments as they move down the log. Pre-marking will work IF the log is perfectly straight with no abnormalities - those don't happen where I have worked.


I just ran into one of these demons last weekend -- big mulberry tree. I've always said mulberry is a tree that knows not whether it's a tree or a bush. Some say its a first cousin to hedge, so I imagine we could add hedge (osage orange) to the list. But, hedge has thorns and big green fruit, so that relationship is suspect. Both drink water like fish in the spring.

I ended up with three truckloads, and the guy who dropped the tree shredded anything smaller than 3" dia. It's only redeeming feature is that it splits nicely when green and burns hot when dry, turning from yellow to burnt orange as it dries. Snap, crackle, and pop -- great for holiday campfires -- but, LOML won't let me bring it into the house. She loads the stove and hot mulberry often screams and barks when you open the loading door.


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## hedge hog (Apr 12, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> I just ran into one of these demons last weekend -- big mulberry tree. I've always said mulberry is a tree that knows not whether it's a tree or a bush. Some say its a first cousin to hedge, so I imagine we could add hedge (osage orange) to the list. But, hedge has thorns and big green fruit, so that relationship is suspect. Both drink water like fish in the spring.
> 
> I ended up with three truckloads, and the guy who dropped the tree shredded anything smaller than 3" dia. It's only redeeming feature is that it splits nicely when green and burns hot when dry, turning from yellow to burnt orange as it dries. Snap, crackle, and pop -- great for holiday campfires -- but, LOML won't let me bring it into the house. She loads the stove and hot mulberry often screams and barks when you open the loading door.



Yes they are related 
Both have a male and female trees
If they have no competition they will bush and not much straight on either of them 
Mull saves it snapping and popping for a big one 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## svk (Apr 12, 2017)

I don't know how I missed this thread earlier.

Thank you @Philbert for the stick, I will give it a try the next time I get out to cut wood.


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## Philbert (Apr 12, 2017)

*Couple of 'geeky' comments for DIY'ers . . . *

First, to reiterate a few things:
- not everybody wants to use these;
- *if you just want one, it is much easier to just buy one *(at least 4 vendors are referenced in this thread);
- *if you just want one, and have to buy all the materials, it is probably cheaper to just buy one*;
- that said, some guys just like to do things themselves; or want a custom version; or have all the materials sitting around, and it's raining, and they are out of beer . . . .

The actual sticks could be from a variety of sources. We mentioned driveway markers, electric fence posts, old arrow shafts, tent poles, . . . I have started looking funny at old fishing poles, golf clubs, and TV antennas at garage sales. I prefer something non-metalic, in case of accidental contact with the saw, but soft aluminum may be OK.

The rare earth magnets ('neodymium') are the heart of these measuring sticks. They are super strong, and when placed in a metal cup, the magnetic force is focused to one side, dramatically increasing the holding power. So what you want to buy are 'neodymium cup magnet assemblies'. These are available on eBay, Amazon, etc., with a countersunk hole for a screw, or with a male threaded stud, or a female threaded post.

1 inch diameter cup magnets are rated around 40 pounds of holding force. A 1.25 inch diameter magnet jumps up to 70 pounds of holding force! The same magnets without the screw holes have higher holding power (very noticeable, but not rated by the vendors). 




Here's the geeky part: thinner, more flexible sticks do not need as strong of a magnet, since they flex before they pry the magnet off of the guide bar. This might happen if the stick brushes against a limb while cutting branches. Thicker, stiffer sticks need a stronger magnet, since a smaller movement of the tip will apply leverage against the magnet.

Have fun. Be safe. And please post photos and comments of any you try in this thread.

Philbert


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## Wood Doctor (Apr 13, 2017)

Philbert said:


> *Couple of 'geeky' comments for DIY'ers . . . *
> 
> First, to reiterate a few things:
> - not everybody wants to use these;
> ...


The female threaded post might work well with an ordinary metal rod that you can salvage from a campaign poster sign. Just thread one end to match the post hole threads and add a plastic cap on the other end. I think I have one in the garage waiting. I've also used this stock to make hot dog and marshmallow roasters for the fire pit.

Seems like the metal is a small issue and the heat on plastic from ported exhaust is a larger issue, but I'd have to try it to be sure. I believe I would use this primarily with good size stock that would eventually have to be split, not smaller branches, but that remains to be seen. It could become addictive.


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## turnkey4099 (Apr 13, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> The female threaded post might work well with an ordinary metal rod that you can salvage from a campaign poster sign. Just thread one end to match the post hole threads and add a plastic cap on the other end. I think I have one in the garage waiting. I've also used this stock to make hot dog and marshmallow roasters for the fire pit.
> 
> Seems like the metal is a small issue and the heat on plastic from ported exhaust is a larger issue, but I'd have to try it to be sure. I believe I would use this primarily with good size stock that would eventually have to be split, not smaller branches, but that remains to be seen. It could become addictive.


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## Philbert (Apr 13, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> It could become addictive.


Well, they are certainly '_attractive_'!

Philbert


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## Philbert (Apr 24, 2017)

*Update*

*1. I LOVE USING THESE STICKS*

- Much easier and faster than marking with chalk, crayon, paint, etc., or rotating the saw 90° each time to measure with the guide bar.
- They work on straight logs, as well as bent branches (e.g. cutting 'tops' into stove wood).
- Very easy to change Right side to Left side, etc., depending on the wood being cut.
- I got really pretty, neat, firewood stacks (if that is something that you care about).

I discovered that I really like 14" wood better for my stove (fits easier and larger rounds are easier to split). One tote that I use to store / carry wood is only 11-1/2 inches wide, so I cut some shorter to fit width-wise instead of length-wise. Neither of these was a problem with the calibrated, hi-viz tape markings.

*2. THEY WILL FLY!*

- I tried to _intentionally_ knock the magnetic sticks off the guide bar, by bumping them against the wood. Sticks with stiffer rods, or smaller magnets, released more easily than more flexible rods or stronger magnets (see earlier post).

- The sticks did not 'fall' off the guide bar when bumped, as much as they 'slid' or rolled to a new position - this could be against the moving chain, if not nestled securely between deep bucking dogs.

- A surprise was cutting wood in a sawbuck - the 'X' frames of the sawbuck frequently bumped the measuring sticks out of position. This was not as much an issue when bucking on the ground.

- Another user commented on similar movement of the stick while trying to cut up trees with the limbs still attached: probably not the best application for these devices.

My recommendation is to use the measuring sticks for marking only, in any situation where they could get knocked into the rotating chain. Pretty simple and easy to remove them from the bar, and place them in a rear pocket, when not needed.

*3. Next Steps?*

I thought that these measuring sticks were a gadget when received, but am now sold on them: simple, convenient, practical, consistent, . . .

I was impressed with the 2 commercial versions I tested. If I make a '_Gen 3 Philbert_' version, they will use the 70-pound magnets, with a smooth base and threaded male stud, and more flexible rods.

Philbert


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## zogger (Apr 27, 2017)

Smokin! Slick, really slick..I'll try it out soon on one of them "chain" saws...that little bitty magnet is no joke!


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## Philbert (Apr 27, 2017)

zogger said:


> .I'll try it out soon on one of them "chain" saws...


Zog, that Fiskars saw has a plastic handle; can't cut as well as one with a wooden handle . . . . (just sayin').

Look forward to your comments.

Philbert


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## dancan (Apr 27, 2017)

Wood Doctor said:


> I just ran into one of these demons last weekend -- big mulberry tree. I've always said mulberry is a tree that knows not whether it's a tree or a bush. Some say its a first cousin to hedge, so I imagine we could add hedge (osage orange) to the list. But, hedge has thorns and big green fruit, so that relationship is suspect. Both drink water like fish in the spring.
> 
> I ended up with three truckloads, and the guy who dropped the tree shredded anything smaller than 3" dia. It's only redeeming feature is that it splits nicely when green and burns hot when dry, turning from yellow to burnt orange as it dries. Snap, crackle, and pop -- great for holiday campfires -- but, LOML won't let me bring it into the house. She loads the stove and hot mulberry often screams and barks when you open the loading door.





Philbert said:


> Well, they are certainly '_attractive_'!
> 
> Philbert





Philbert said:


> *Update*
> 
> *1. I LOVE USING THESE STICKS*
> 
> ...


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## zogger (May 1, 2017)

First try, with the oregon battery saw. As a quick marker, great. Remove to cut. 

Yes, a slight bump and they want to slide. Next test will be something with real felling dawgs so it can nestle in there.


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## Logger nate (May 1, 2017)

Well after reading this thread I decided to try the firewood buddy
I really like it, works very well, strong magnet, was only like $15 on amazon, tried premarking with it close to bar tip and cutting blocks with it between dog teeth close to power head, for me premarking worked best, but most of what I cut is pretty straight. Great thread.


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## Philbert (May 2, 2017)

Nate, 

Can you measure the diameter of the rod on your Firewood Buddy for me (nearest 16th of an inch) ? Nerdy request, but I have been comparing a bunch of different models, along with different fiberglass rods for DIY models. 

Thanks 

Philbert


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## Logger nate (May 2, 2017)

Hope that helps


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## svk (May 2, 2017)

Philbert if you need 357/38 Spl brass I've got a bunch of it.


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## Helper (May 9, 2017)

As creator and manufacture of the Woodcutters Helper we are honored to see our cutting edge magnetic mounting process adopted by Philbert, Ott Accu-Stic, Acc-U-Mark and others. 
As the saying go’s, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.”


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## Philbert (May 9, 2017)

Helper said:


> As creator and manufacture of the Woodcutters Helper we are honored to see our cutting edge magnetic mounting process adopted by Philbert, Ott Accu-Stic, Acc-U-Mark and others. As the saying go’s, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.”


Welcome to A.S.! 

You will find a large number of passionate woodcutters here, interested in products like yours. And, in general, we _LOVE_ to have the inventors, manufacturers, reps, etc. , participate in forums, and share technical aspects of their products, so that we have a deeper understanding and appreciation of them.

As noted throughout this thread, I have tried making my own versions of your product out of curiosity, and my personal urge to 'tinker'. I have learned a lot, and tried to share that. But there is no practical way that I can 'compete' with the value point of your basic product, or with the sophistication of some of the higher end offerings.

I would love to hear your story of designing these.

Philbert


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## svk (May 20, 2017)

Used my philbert measuring stick this morning doing a cord of hardwood. 

Using the stick on a saw without spikes somewhat hindered the process as contact with wood would eventually "walk" up or down and into contact with the chain. If it hit the top chain it would throw the stick a good 25 feet so fortunately the bright colors helped me locate it. 

I'll run it tomorrow on my larger saw and I'd bet it won't move once it's tucked in the spikes.


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## Wood Doctor (May 20, 2017)

Agreed, you need at least one bumper spike for it to work right and the stick should be between you and the log, floating down with the saw. The spikes on my Makita and my 046 were ideal. With longer logs, I also tried several measurements at once with just nibble cuts. Then I took the stick off and cut at the nibbles since the measuring was over. That worked also, but with big logs, you must have a good chain that does not pull left or right. Whenever I get one of those, I replace it because most of the time it's the chain and not the bar that causes the pulling.


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## tla100 (May 20, 2017)

How about drilling hole in to dawg, threaded rod cut to desired length, nut on both sides of dawg with lock washers. Easy peasy, no gonna fly off, not real fun to maneuver tho. Patent Pending......


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## turnkey4099 (May 20, 2017)

tla100 said:


> How about drilling hole in to dawg, threaded rod cut to desired length, nut on both sides of dawg with lock washers. Easy peasy, no gonna fly off, not real fun to maneuver tho. Patent Pending......


 
In all my trials with saw mount measuring sticks, I found one of the most important things was easy/quick on/off. I tried the "quik sticks" (I dthink that was the name, plastic rods) they threaded into a double length bar nut - not too practical mounting/dismounting.


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## tla100 (May 20, 2017)

Ok. Threaded rod, jam nut, nut, dawg, but on bar side, drill hole and insert a small hitch pin clip into hole. Only one clip to loose.....


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## Philbert (Jun 26, 2017)

Made a Set for Denny's Interfaith Firewood Ministry Volunteers




Philbert


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## turnkey4099 (Jun 26, 2017)

turnkey4099 said:


> In all my trials with saw mount measuring sticks, I found one of the most important things was easy/quick on/off. I tried the "quik sticks" (I dthink that was the name, plastic rods) they threaded into a double length bar nut - not too practical mounting/dismounting.



Not practical AT ALL. Sticks break at the slightest excuse. I replaced the plastic ones with iron rods. Still takes to long to mount/dismount.


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## bikemike (Jun 26, 2017)

I just use my echo saw and lay it on the log from chain cover to the nose of the bar and score with a blip of the throttle. And work my way down the line. 14 inch bar works great then come back with a bigger saw.


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## svk (Jun 26, 2017)

Philbert said:


> Made a Set for Denny's Interfaith Firewood Ministry Volunteers
> 
> View attachment 587288
> 
> ...


And that carrying case!


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## Philbert (Jun 26, 2017)

I really like these sticks and use them all the time now. Easy-on; easy-off. 

The tape rings mean no measuring tapes and consistent lengths. 



svk said:


> And that carrying case!



That was to help him keep track of them at a busy, outdoor work site. 

Philbert


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## jpcjguy (Feb 13, 2018)

Here is another version:

https://www.amazon.com/Cut-Rite-Cha...sory-Detachable/dp/B01M5FDFDW#customerReviews


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## Philbert (Feb 13, 2018)

jpcjguy said:


> Here is another version . . .


That is one of the '_replaces the bar nut_' type mounts.




Advantage:
- cannot not slip around like a magnetic mount.

Disadvantages:
- more time to mount/dismount;
- threaded adaptor stays with / protrudes from the saw;
- different threads for different saw brands;
- can't switch between right and left sides of guide bar;
- won't work on saws with 'tool-less' chain tensioners (no bar nuts).

About $30 at that link. Clever use of air hose coupling. Whatever works for the end user!

Philbert


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## Yarz (Feb 13, 2018)

Thanks for the ideas! I made a few of these this winter, based on some of the ones pictured in this thread.

The rod is a fiberglass driveway marker (you can get 2 rods from 1 marker - one with reflectors and one without)
That is epoxied into a bullet casing. I used 9mm because that's what I had the most of, but I found one 5.56 that actually fit the rod better (after cutting off the inward belled end)
Then, to be more secure, I drilled and pinned through the casing, epoxied and peened the pin
A cup magnet with a screw hole through the center is then screwed onto the base
I made them 24" because that's the largest I need, and I plan to put colored electrical tape at different lengths for when I cut for/with friends
I haven't had a chance to use one yet, though. Hopefully they hold up to the use and abuse.


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## Philbert (Feb 13, 2018)

Looks good! Let us know how they work out for you!

Philbert


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## Ted Jenkins (Feb 13, 2018)

90% of what i cut is 18" so two hand widths make 18''. Right hand or left hand still make 18"' Some times I can be more accurate with my hands than a tape because of curvature or uneven wood. The stick works too just have not found and easy way to carry one away from the saw. Light chalk or drywall works pretty well. I have not figured a reasonable way to handle 14'' and 16''. I hate doing really short stove wood so much that I am considering telling my stove customers to buy a real stove or buy from some body else. Thanks


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## Little Al (Feb 14, 2018)

I knew I should have patented my DIY one I made years back Broken off extending auto aerial pull out to max length you will require trim off at thick end with dremel cut off wheel purchase rare earth magnet & epoxy to the thick end open close to required length


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## Huskybill (May 25, 2018)

Looks great, seen it before but never gave it much thought. I would call it speed bucking. Time is money.


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## Canyon Angler (May 31, 2018)

Maybe I'm just a prodigy, but I can eyeball the correct length for our woodstove to within +/- 3/8" ... probably 99 logs out of 100 fit just fine with maybe 1% too long ... can't imagine the hassle of screwing around with measuring sticks...if anything I would Magic Marker a line on the bar...


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## Ted Jenkins (May 31, 2018)

"Looks great, seen it before but never gave it much thought. I would call it speed bucking. Time is money."

I enjoy going to my project area to cut and load. I spend up to three weeks completely away from civilization, but when I start a saw I need to make something happen. One of the things that consumes time is marking wood to cut. If the log is pretty linear then get the chalk and mark. Then there are logs that have curves and yes I realize that they should all grow straight, but some did not get the memo. So with tape or measuring device in hand they have to be marked some how. No matter how you cut it it will either be too long or short. This all depends on a judgement of how to cut it so the device needs to be stored on ones self and be ready to go at a moment. A strip on fabric with some velcro works and a combination of hands with the measuring seems to meet most needs. Thanks


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## muddstopper (May 31, 2018)

My stove will take 32in wood. I like sawing around 20 in. Anything 24in or less will fit on my splitter and in my stove. I burn anything from 6in chunks to 32in limbs. Dont see how a measureing stick will help me much. Eye ball is close enough.


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## Philbert (Jun 1, 2018)

Only a issue for guys who need / what very uniform firewood: selling; fixed size stove; OCD; etc. 

Not a problem for burning random lengths, where appearance is secondary, etc. 

IF you measure firewood, this is just one method/ option. I find it very convenient. 

Philbert


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## Big_Eddy (Jun 1, 2018)

Canyon Angler said:


> Maybe I'm just a prodigy, but I can eyeball the correct length for our woodstove to within +/- 3/8" ... probably 99 logs out of 100 fit just fine with maybe 1% too long ... can't imagine the hassle of screwing around with measuring sticks...if anything I would Magic Marker a line on the bar...


Magic marker, paint, etc. will be gone within 5 minutes.
I used an engraving pen and scored a vertical line on both sides of my bar 16" from the tip. 
I'm not overly fussy about length, but my furnace maximum is 18" so it's nice to spot check every once in a while. I find my block length is pretty consistent, but it tends to drift longer on both small limbs and very large logs.


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## Philbert (Oct 9, 2018)

*(BUMP)*

I still use my sticks whenever I have a bunch of limbs to cut up.

The Ott stick (started me on this whole thread!) is currently on sale at Bailey's for $29.99

Philbert


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## Canyon Angler (Oct 10, 2018)

Big_Eddy said:


> Magic marker, paint, etc. will be gone within 5 minutes.



You must be a fast wood cutter or cut some abrasive wood! I cut several cords a year, and the Magic Marker lasts multiple years. Can you cut several cords in 5 minutes? 

NB: It helps to wipe off the bar oil before applying the Magic Marker.


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## Philbert (Aug 9, 2020)

*Bump!*

Philbert


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## Huskybill (Aug 9, 2020)

In the firewood business I eyeball 16” to 18” more like 17”. Unless they special order.


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## Yarz (Aug 9, 2020)

Philbert said:


> Looks good! Let us know how they work out for you!


I totally forgot to update on how my homemade ones work, my apologies!
Short answer is they work great!
There are a couple cautions though. 

You've got to be careful if you need to take a limb off that you don't catch the rod and knock it off the bar.
I don't usually fully buck with them on anymore because I've had them get pushed up into the chain. The chain tosses them pretty well though!  So now I typically just make layout marks and then remove the marker, and finish bucking. It's nice when there are 2 or more of us cutting too. One can layout and strip limbs as they go, while another one or two can just buck behind them.
The magnets seem to get weaker with use. I assume from the heat of the muffler. It's a slow change, though. I recently grabbed a newer one and it stuck to the bar with much more force than my older go-to.
I really like having uniform length wood. We typically cut 18" because that's what fits in my brother's burner. Having them all be pretty uniform allows me to fit them onto my trailer nicer, as well as to stack 3 rows on a pallet, allowing the outside rows to overhang. This technically lets me get a higher cord to pallet ratio stacked on the same number of pallets.
You can see that on the right side of this image:


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## Ted Jenkins (Aug 9, 2020)

My hand twice plus one inch has been reliable. I have yet to forget my measurer, but any thing could happen. Two hands plus an inch 18'' or two hands minus an inch 16'' Thanks


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## Philbert (Aug 9, 2020)

Handy!

Philbert


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## svk (Aug 10, 2020)

I have my measuring stick from philbert stuck to the side of my grinder to keep the magnet strong.

I remember a few times when it wiggled up on the bar, caught the chain and WHING into the woods. Good thing it was brightly colored LOL!


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## Ted Jenkins (Aug 11, 2020)

I have cut many thousands of cords of wood, but still do not know how to cut Oak really nice. Oak here is not straight. There are always curves and knots. So I have to average out about what I am aiming for. Cutting Pine which is pretty straight is not so easy either unless the tree is small. Cutting Pine needs a measuring device of some kind so that there are about five or six marks to hit to make the round consistent. Other wise the round will be seventeen on one side with the other approaching twenty inches. Not so good. Thanks


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## fields_mj (Aug 12, 2020)

I made one of these a few years ago using 24" of PVC pipe, a cap, 1-1/2" rare earth magnet, and a flat head screw. I used a green sharpie to mark and label 16", 18", 20", and 22". I leave my firewood in 7' logs until I'm ready to bring it in the house. Use my loader with forks to keep about a cord worth of logs close to the house along with my splitter. When I'm burning, I cut about once a week and bring a week's worth into the basement via an old coal chute. How long I cut my firewood depends on how cold it's going to be. My add on wood furnace will take a 26" log, but 24" is really as long as you want to go with it. If the weather is warmer, I may cut rounds as short as 16". If it's going to be in the low teens to below zero, I'll cut everything to 24". This allows me to burn up into the 40s without giving the house so hot that my wife complains while also keeping my flu temps up to minimize the creosote buildup in warmer weather.


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## Philbert (Aug 12, 2020)

Pics?

Thanks.

Philbert


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## fields_mj (Aug 12, 2020)

I'll see if I can find my current version out in the shop. An "incident" with the lawn mower caused me to have to replace the original. The magnet is protected with a metal cover, so I was able to save it. I grabbed a 3/4" dowel rod I had laying in the corner, cut it to 24" and gave it a few coats of white spray paint left over from another project. Used the same sharpie to mark it like the previous one.


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## husqvarna257 (Aug 13, 2020)

I use a 24" sticker That I painted to find it when I drop it . Now my new saw 562XP I have a 24" bar so that makes it easy. I like neat stacks in the 10-20 shed so over 24" makes a mess. I do have left over short pieces because I am cutting up ends that I got from a logging company. I use them for the wood strove or put them in a skid crate by the boiler.


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## Ted Jenkins (Aug 13, 2020)

I have several regular measuring tapes that I put a larger hook in the end. These work pretty well, but do not carry well in or on pockets well. I cut up old tapes into 24'' that can be folded up into ones pocket. A strip of canvas that has measured marks on them works pretty good too. Thanks


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## fields_mj (Aug 15, 2020)

Finally took a couple of pics. Looks like I only made the replacement version 22" long.


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## Philbert (Aug 15, 2020)

fields_mj said:


> Finally took a couple of pics. Looks like I only made the replacement version 22" long.View attachment 848505
> View attachment 848506
> View attachment 848507


I like it!

Philbert


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## Philbert (Sep 6, 2020)

fields_mj said:


> I made one of these a few years ago using 24" of PVC pipe, a cap, 1-1/2" rare earth magnet, and a flat head screw.


Here is a similar PVC version on YouTube:


Philbert


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## Philbert (Dec 8, 2020)

YIKES! The _Woodcutter's Helper _is up to $21 on eBay. Might make sense to make your own now!

Philbert


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## soloz2 (Dec 9, 2020)

I was going to order a pre made version, but they were all $20-40 so I'm still using chalk. It works and is cheap.


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## Philbert (Dec 9, 2020)

The basic ones were something like $14 to $16, shipped, when I started this thread!

Philbert


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## rarefish383 (Dec 9, 2020)

Philbert said:


> YIKES! The _Woodcutter's Helper _is up to $21 on eBay. Might make sense to make your own now!
> 
> Philbert


I took measuring stick in another direction. Back in the 70’s a friend had a factory made “yard stick”, that was 4’ long, just for measuring “cord” wood. I was making Oak floor boards for a yard cart out of 30-50 year old 1x6 fence boards. I had some long scraps left over so I cut them to 4’, ran them through the planer down to 3/4“ thick, and trimmed to 2“ wide. On one side I wrote 1 cord = two rows 24”X4’X8’. On the other side on top, 1 cord = three rows, 16”X4’x8’, and on the bottom, 1 cord= two rows 18”x4’X10.66’.
It also doubles as a good switch. You can line up three bad kids and straighten them all out in one swing.


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## TimberWolf530 (Dec 9, 2020)

I literally use a stick for my measuring stick. 18" is the perfect length for my stove, so I cut a straight(ish) one to 18" and mark where to cut with shallow cuts with my small saw. Can't beat the price, and if I lose one, they're easily replaced.


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## Philbert (Dec 9, 2020)

TimberWolf530 said:


> I literally use a stick for my measuring stick.



These are just ‘sticks’. Some people find the magnets ‘attractive’!

Philbert


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## SeMoTony (Dec 9, 2020)

Philbert said:


> These are just ‘sticks’. Some people find the magnets ‘attractive’!
> 
> Philbert


24" will fit the burner, so 24-25" bar is right in there


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## Ted Jenkins (Dec 10, 2020)

Two hands plus my thumb is 18'' and two hands minus a thumb is exactly 16''. I have not misplaced my measuring devices yet but who knows. Thanks


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## Big_Eddy (Dec 11, 2020)

2 minutes with an engraving tool
Eons ago







Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## DaleP (Dec 19, 2020)

midwest_170 said:


> 2x4 and a can of spray paint. Mark out enough for a tank of gas and start cutting. Refuel and mark out some more, give me a little break from running the saw. That thing looks cumbersome on a saw, probably wouldn't use it if someone gave me 1.


I use a piece of dowel cut to 16" and marking spray paint that points down. I have a plastic crate that my bar oil, gas, extra bar tool (one in my back pocket too), extra chain, chain file, spray paint and dowel all live in. The dowel gets some orange overspray on it so it's easy to locate.


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## Philbert (Dec 19, 2020)

DaleP said:


> I use a piece of dowel cut to 16" and marking spray paint that points down. I have a plastic crate that my bar oil, gas, extra bar tool (one in my back pocket too), extra chain, chain file, spray paint and dowel all live in. The dowel gets some orange overspray on it so it's easy to locate.


Welcome to A.S.!

Philbert


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## Woodslasher (Dec 19, 2020)

I saw this and wondered how 10 pages could be devoted to sticks cut to a certain length. Now that I’m informed, I’ll throw in my two cents. I usually just “eyeball“ stuff. If I bring a log to the bucking station, I’ll just knock an inch or so off of my MS250’s (18 inch) bar length when held along the log and use that as my “stick”. For the last cut, if the last piece is 30+ inches long I’ll split it in half, if it’s less I’ll have a long and a short piece. If I’m in the field and I’m bucking it, the log is 24+ inches in diameter so a 32 inch+ bar is being used, so I’ll divide the bar length by half and use that as my measuring stick. As the wood is being stacked I have a pvc pipe 18.5 inches long with a notch cut at 17 inches I hold the piece against. If the piece is about 18 inches long it gets chucked in the “buck” pile, if it’s less, it gets stacked.


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## Philbert (Dec 19, 2020)

Woodslasher said:


> I saw this and wondered how 10 pages could be devoted to sticks cut to a certain length.


As it says near the beginning of the thread, it does not matter to a lot of people. However, some folks with small stoves, or who sell wood to fussy customers might care. 

And most of us have thought about some way to do this. 

I have personally: ‘eyeballed’, used my guide bar, used a dedicated stick (wood, PVC, whatever), and tried some devices that attached to the saw handle or bar nuts. They all ‘worked’. 

Lots of of other devices described in these threads: paint, chalk, story poles, etc. 

The magnetic sticks are just so simple, easy, and effective. Measure once; cut once. I really like them. 

Philbert


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## Woodslasher (Dec 19, 2020)

Philbert said:


> As it says near the beginning of the thread, it does not matter to a lot of people. However, some folks with small stoves, or who sell wood to fussy customers might care.
> 
> And most of us have thought about some way to do this.
> 
> ...


After seeing the many devices shown, I understood the reason for 10 pages but when I thought it was just 10 pages of pictures of 17 inch long chunks of broom handle or pvc, I couldn’t understand how it garnered so many replies.


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## memory (Dec 25, 2020)

Was looking at buying one of these measuring devices but they are either hard to find or will take forever to ship it with it being the holidays. Bailey's is sold out of the accu stick until Jan 8th. Have a Tractor Supply near me but don't think they sell anything like this. Maybe I will try to make one myself. What all is needed to make something like this? Seems like it should be simple but just can't picture how it would be put together. Read through a few of the pages but not every single one. I seen someone using a magnetic pickup tool, would the magnet be strong enough to stay on the bar?


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## Philbert (Dec 25, 2020)

memory said:


> Maybe I will try to make one myself. What all is needed to make something like this?


_*Lots*_ of detailed info on this in the thread.

Philbert


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## Yarz (Dec 25, 2020)

The biggest thing you need is your imagination.. Picture what you want, dig through the materials you have, and then buy the 1 or 2 you need.
Do you want it magnet mounted?
Do you want it to be screwed onto the bar nuts?
How about a plate you put under the bar nuts?
What material do you have available? Fiberglass, PVC, aluminum, etc. can all be good options.

FYI, details of how I built mine are in post 161. But I've seen simpler ones after rereading through this thread.


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## Philbert (Dec 25, 2020)

Lasers.

There actually are laser pointer attachments for chainsaws. Once they connect to the Bluetooth on your smartphone you can cut from your folding camp chair. 

Philbert


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## memory (Dec 25, 2020)

Yarz said:


> The biggest thing you need is your imagination.. Picture what you want, dig through the materials you have, and then buy the 1 or 2 you need.
> Do you want it magnet mounted?
> Do you want it to be screwed onto the bar nuts?
> How about a plate you put under the bar nuts?
> ...


I am going to try out a zip tie attached to the handle. Not sure how well it will work but will see. Still want to make something that attaches to the bar with a magnet. 

Will check out the other posts


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## Philbert (Dec 25, 2020)

_*In case you thought that I was joking . . . . *_


part # 00004004900


part # 00004000200

Philbert


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## Philbert (Dec 25, 2020)

Philbert


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## memory (Dec 25, 2020)

Philbert said:


> _*In case you thought that I was joking . . . . *_
> View attachment 877429
> 
> part # 00004004900
> ...


I have seen those before but never actually looked into that. Anyone hear actually use this device? Not looking to get one, prefer to KIS it lol. Got enough things that run off a battery, don't need anymore. Would get annoying you go to use it and it have a dead battery.


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## Philbert (Dec 25, 2020)

memory said:


> Got enough things that run off a battery, don't need anymore. Would get annoying you go to use it and it have a dead battery.


What if it was powered by the inertia of the motor (like heated handles)?

Philbert


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## Witterings (Dec 25, 2020)

memory said:


> Was looking at buying one of these measuring devices but they are either hard to find or will take forever to ship it with it being the holidays. Bailey's is sold out of the accu stick until Jan 8th. Have a Tractor Supply near me but don't think they sell anything like this. Maybe I will try to make one myself. What all is needed to make something like this? Seems like it should be simple but just can't picture how it would be put together. Read through a few of the pages but not every single one. I seen someone using a magnetic pickup tool, would the magnet be strong enough to stay on the bar?



I've just received the 2 links below ... the "sticks" are an incredibly tight fit and won't need any glue, I normally go for 9 / 10" logs so will just cut the sticks to length and if the end's not highly visible put some coloured tape on it or cut a circular disc from cardboard or plastic and mount it on the end. 






Okra Cake Dowels 5mm Wood Rods 10 Pack - 30cm long Wooden Craft Sticks: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home


Okra Cake Dowels 5mm Wood Rods 10 Pack - 30cm long Wooden Craft Sticks: Okra Cake Dowels 5mm Wood Rods 10 Pack - 30cm long Wooden Craft Sticks: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home



www.amazon.co.uk













Rare Earth DIY Industrial Strong Ring Neo Neodymium Disc Round Magnet with Hole | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Rare Earth DIY Industrial Strong Ring Neo Neodymium Disc Round Magnet with Hole at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.



www.ebay.co.uk





The magnets are really strong and the sticks incredibly light, they can either be mounted on the bar itself, I'm not sure what the teeth that stick out from the body are called but also from them or the nuts that that hold the "bar cover" in place so lots of different options.


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## memory (Dec 25, 2020)

Just thought of this but not sure how well it would work. Just a thought since some may have a few of them. A hard drive magnet, not sure how many are familiar with these little magnets are strong for the size of them, actually might be too strong. Like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-12-...898437?hash=item2a8c164e05:g:nMoAAOSwf-xZpdqm

Not sure if these could be applied here.


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## Philbert (Dec 25, 2020)

memory said:


> A hard drive magnet, . . .


I stripped some out of old hard drives. Very strong. But brittle. And hard to attach to things. But fun to play with. 

Philbert


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