# Husky chainsaw won't idle



## hanalance (Aug 18, 2006)

The saw is a 42/42 Special/242. Saw had been operating erratically. 
Can sometimes get it running good at high speed by playing with the choke in and out and then at about half choke. It will not even come close to idling without dying. The idle screw does not seem to do anything. It has High, Low and Idle adjusting screws and I've tried all sorts of settings. I would really like to know what is going on with it. Meanwhile, I've ordered a carb rebuild kit; will that do it? 
Any suggestions or comments appreciated.


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## HiOctane (Aug 18, 2006)

First check the carb if clean inside.Check the if the fuel hose is not damaged by old fuel(ltouching it feels like glue) or not cut.Look for the fuel filter,if you have the old type like a felt,it should be soft not hard to the touch,if you replace it ,use one from the newer saw like 346,357 uses.It could be also an air leak by a gasket or seal,you have to a presure test done.The initial setting sdhould be around one turn out on both needles.Be sure to install the intake gasket correctly when reintalling the car,they are easy to drop on one side and then you get an air leak instantly and the trouble you describe.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Aug 18, 2006)

There is a long list of things it could be..

Including a leaky Crank seal, Leaky head (block to cylinder) gasket, intake gasket, internal carb leak, Fuel line, in or out of the tank...

what I sometimes do is get a little tiny can of WD40, and remove the air fillter housing and all that, and start the saw, and spray WD40 around the carb where it goes into the block, and listen for a change in exhaust note. If there is no change, it probably isnt leaking there. For the other possibilities, it is just going to have to be exploratory surgery...

Also, seeing as it is clearly running very lean, Id shy away from running it much, as this could speed up engine wear slightly.


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## hanalance (Aug 22, 2006)

Help me figure this out.
If it only runs at half choke, doesn't that mean that it is running rich - choking/limiting the air intake relative to the fuel intake?


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## HiOctane (Aug 22, 2006)

hanalance said:


> Help me figure this out.
> If it only runs at half choke, doesn't that mean that it is running rich - choking/limiting the air intake relative to the fuel intake?


No,it means you are running lean.Running choke half closed,you are cutting the air quantity to the engine.So with a X quantity of gas from your carb,and only half the passing tru with the choke half closed,you are richening the mixture.


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## hanalance (Aug 23, 2006)

HiOctane said:


> No,it means you are running lean.Running choke half closed,you are cutting the air quantity to the engine.So with a X quantity of gas from your carb,and only half the passing tru with the choke half closed,you are richening the mixture.




Right. I got it. I didn't frame my question properly. I was running rich[er] by pulling the choke out on an otherwise lean running engine.

So -- getting back to cause, it would be pulling in air from somewhere and/or not getting enough fuel from the carb [causing me to choke it to richen it up to get it to run]? Correct? 

Now, using the suggestions provided, I need to find out where the air is coming from or what's restricting the fuel.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Aug 23, 2006)

If you can run an engine on full choke..you definetly have an air leak somewhere..it would have to just about have the mixture screw bottomed out to run that lean.

One thing I did on a saw that had this problem was to take the gas cap off, and stuff paper towels over the gas hole and use some light compressed air to slightly pressureize the fuel system. A small air leak in a hose or fitting will become a gusher...showing you where to look.

What I did on a Homelite saw was find another gas cap, and drill a very small hole in it, and pressurize it that way. The key here is moderation, basically you are looking to put about as much pressure in the lines as you could with your mouth...I turned my regulator down to 10psi, and even then, barely wisped it, and found a gusher at the carb itself. Replaced the line, and fixed it right up.

2 words here..."Safety Goggles"


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## TopJimmy (Aug 23, 2006)

Red
Couldn't it as easily be a lack of fuel as an air leak.


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## HiOctane (Aug 23, 2006)

hanalance said:


> Right. I got it. I didn't frame my question properly. I was running rich[er] by pulling the choke out on an otherwise lean running engine.
> 
> So -- getting back to cause, it would be pulling in air from somewhere and/or not getting enough fuel from the carb [causing me to choke it to richen it up to get it to run]? Correct?
> 
> Now, using the suggestions provided, I need to find out where the air is coming from or what's restricting the fuel.


You are right right on both.


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## RED-85-Z51 (Aug 23, 2006)

TopJimmy said:


> Red
> Couldn't it as easily be a lack of fuel as an air leak.




Thats Why I suggested doing the fuel system test. If there are no leaks there, it is an air leak.

But typically fuel line doesnt leak a little, it just breaks, especially on a saw, with all the vibration.


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## TopJimmy (Aug 24, 2006)

Red,
I was worried that he might be confused when you posted that if it runs with full choke, then it is definitely an air leak. A plugged passage in the carb could have similar symptoms.

It seems to me that it could be a fuel leak, air leak, or a plugged passage in the carb. I like your method of looking for an air and fuel leak, but my money is on the carb rebuild fixing it. However based on what we know from his description, I would not say it is definitely anything.

Jim


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## njforestfire (Sep 5, 2006)

I have found that a plugged carb kinda gives the same symptoms. I had that issue in a 670 J'Red of mine. Cleaned it out and away she went! Now the 371 I just took apart had saw dust EVERYWHERE and now appears to have an air leak! Stripped the carb down to piece part level and re-built with a new kit. Now it is really idling roughly and exhibits an air leak after the throttle is opened wide...(it keeps a steady high rpm - but not as high as wide open). Still looking for the leak. I have tried the WD-40 trick but with no luck. New spark plug installed. Other than installing a pressure or vacuum guage, any other ideas?


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## Four Paws (Sep 6, 2006)

Sounds like an impulse line to me. Cracked, split, came off the hose barb...check it over...there is a good chance that is your problem!


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## HiOctane (Sep 6, 2006)

njforestfire said:


> I have found that a plugged carb kinda gives the same symptoms. I had that issue in a 670 J'Red of mine. Cleaned it out and away she went! Now the 371 I just took apart had saw dust EVERYWHERE and now appears to have an air leak! Stripped the carb down to piece part level and re-built with a new kit. Now it is really idling roughly and exhibits an air leak after the throttle is opened wide...(it keeps a steady high rpm - but not as high as wide open). Still looking for the leak. I have tried the WD-40 trick but with no luck. New spark plug installed. Other than installing a pressure or vacuum guage, any other ideas?


Remove the clutch and check if the pto seal is not leaking using wd 40 or soap/water to check for bubbles.And check the condition of the TINY o ring on the crankshaft just behind the clutch spacer.


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## cord arrow (Sep 6, 2006)

RED said:


> One thing I did on a saw that had this problem was to take the gas cap off, and stuff paper towels over the gas hole and use some light compressed air to slightly pressureize the fuel system. A small air leak in a hose or fitting will become a gusher...showing you where to look.



i've been blowin' gas tanks forever....i use my lips....


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## crankster69 (Jul 11, 2009)

*stalling*

Came across this thread and thought I'd bump it with a very similar problem.

The Husky 141 that I just picked up stalls when idling. Runs great otherwise 

It will not start with the choke full out or 1/2 out. 

It will only start with my finger on the trigger and the choke in.

Carb having issues? Fuel line leak?

Ideas?

Thanks for your input.


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## chucker (Jul 11, 2009)

"YUPP" !! refresh everything that you can ! AFTER THAT IT WILL RUN ,NEW CARB KIT, PLUG, FUEL LINES, FILTER AND GAS ... should'nt cost more then a 20.00...


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## crankster69 (Jul 11, 2009)

chucker said:


> "YUPP" !! refresh everything that you can ! AFTER THAT IT WILL RUN ,NEW CARB KIT, PLUG, FUEL LINES, FILTER AND GAS ... should'nt cost more then a 20.00...



Thanks for the quick reply!

I was also going to mention - or ask...

Cleaning a carb or replacing? (Can you tell that I'm new to this?):monkey:

Does everyone automatically "try" to clean their carb? Should that be step #1? And then replace?

Thanks for helping to educate me on this stuff.


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## chucker (Jul 11, 2009)

possible ? only after a few rounds with the starter cord and a dry plug. always fresh gas!! if the plug is wet then its getting fuel. spark after that and so on ..


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