# Chainsaw Boots?



## JimiLL (Jul 4, 2010)

Do any of you guys use them for firewood work??

I dont have to do any climbing but the extra protection is welcome.

The Oregons look nice


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## Philbert (Jul 5, 2010)

I have a pair of Husqvarna branded boots made by Weinbrenner Boot in Wisconsin. They have Vibram lug soles, steel toes, and protective material similar to that used in chaps sewn into the sides and tongue area. But they are HEAVY compared to normal, steel-toed work boots.

The all-rubber Oregon/Viking boots might be a good choice if you want the chainsaw protection, and look pretty affordable. Might be easier to slip on and off than a full lace boot as well, so you would not need to wear them when not cutting if they are heavy, or if you wanted to make them last longer.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=VW58+12&catID=574
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+295384+8&catID=12107

Philbert


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## TreePointer (Jul 5, 2010)

I'd definitely get something with a steel toe.

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## Brushwacker (Jul 5, 2010)

I snagged a used pair Stihl brand on ebay some time ago. I am impressed how light and comfortable they have been. Feel lighter then some without steel toes and they go higher.


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## 1999HarleyRN (Jul 5, 2010)

I bought a pair of the Labonville Kevlar 1" heel boots this spring. So far I love 'em; comfortable, not too heavy, fairly waterproof. I not sure how warm they will be though come cold weather.


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## BuddhaKat (Jul 5, 2010)

The Labonville boots are great. I've had the 2" ones for a year now and they're comfortable and tough. plus, I like the extra security of having Kevlar in them.


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## Ductape (Jul 5, 2010)

I second the steel toe at an absolute minimum. I'm confident I'd be toe deficient if I hadn't been wearing my steel toe'd Chippewas last winter doing some storm cleanup. I intend to buy some new boots this month while Labonville has their sale going on.


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## bluestem (Jul 5, 2010)

I have a pair of 10" Matterhorn chainsaw boots. Most comfortable boots I have ever worn. They take a couple weeks to break in but now they are my go to work boot. Made in the USA too! Can't beat that.


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## super3 (Jul 5, 2010)

TreePointer said:


> I'd definitely get something with a steel toe.
> 
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Ya but that's with a damm old Stihl, a Husky would of made mincemeat of those. Just ask Rope!


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## gwiley (Jul 6, 2010)

I wear Matterhorn 10" saw boots for all my saw work, felling, bucking, limbing.

The saw doesn't know whether you are cutting firewood or doing paid tree work - it will happily sever the toes no matter what the work is 

I recommend a little experiment.

Materials:
1 - heavy leather boot
2 - your typical chainsaw

1. Place boot (sole down) on a stable surface that will not damage a running saw chain - a stump or firewood round is a good choice. Ensure that the boot is stable.

2.Start your saw

3. Touch boot toe with saw - pay careful attention to any perceived resistance to the saw (it should be almost imperceptible).

4. Go buy saw boots (or at least steel toe).


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## pipehead (Jul 7, 2010)

I'll echo a few others - at the very least, wear steel toes. Even if not for the chain, a decent sized round rolling across your toes can hurt enough.
I were nothing but steel toes. Reminds me of when I milked cows, and a Hosltein stepped on my non-steel toe rubber boots, right on the toes. Think I could get it to move again? I'm not sure how long it really was, but it felt like an eternity.


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## 371groundie (Jul 8, 2010)

i wear chainsaw boots whenever i have a saw in my hand. i have the logger heel leather ones from labonnviles and some rubber ones (i think they are the same ones labonville carries). love them both. ive worn the leather ones out in about 18 months of abuse.


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## camoman (Jul 8, 2010)

Philbert said:


> I have a pair of Husqvarna branded boots made by Weinbrenner Boot in Wisconsin. They have Vibram lug soles, steel toes, and protective material similar to that used in chaps sewn into the sides and tongue area. But they are HEAVY compared to normal, steel-toed work boots.
> 
> The all-rubber Oregon/Viking boots might be a good choice if you want the chainsaw protection, and look pretty affordable. Might be easier to slip on and off than a full lace boot as well, so you would not need to wear them when not cutting if they are heavy, or if you wanted to make them last longer.
> 
> ...



My wife bought me the viking boots for my Birthday.. I spent a day cutting and loading 3 cords of wood (hauling by hand through the bush) and they worked great and were pretty comfy. I would recommend them!


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## smokinj (Jul 8, 2010)

I dont really see the need for them.....I wear steele toe boots and chaps that go to the ankle..If I was walking the log that would be differnt but with the long bar I will not be able to turn the saw to hit the side of the boot.


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## gwiley (Jul 9, 2010)

smokinj said:


> I dont really see the need for them.....I wear steele toe boots and chaps that go to the ankle..If I was walking the log that would be differnt but with the long bar I will not be able to turn the saw to hit the side of the boot.



Imagine the scenario in which the saw makes contact with the steel toe, now imagine the saw slipping back toward your leg rather than away from it - that is why saw boots matter. If you feel the steel toe is important or chaps that go to the ankle are important then you should consider the saw boots as well.

I don't feel we need to wear a full body suit, but kevlar boots are an easy way to protect an area that is commonly injured by the chain saw.


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## smokinj (Jul 9, 2010)

gwiley said:


> Imagine the scenario in which the saw makes contact with the steel toe, now imagine the saw slipping back toward your leg rather than away from it - that is why saw boots matter. If you feel the steel toe is important or chaps that go to the ankle are important then you should consider the saw boots as well.
> 
> I don't feel we need to wear a full body suit, but kevlar boots are an easy way to protect an area that is commonly injured by the chain saw.





I fill that coming back into my legs the chaps are there. I run a 41in. bar thats much longer than my legs. The only place I can see it is delimbing while walking the log and I dont do that, but not knocking safty if you fill you need them by all meens gettem. Long bars should be the only bars close to your feet and I really am not strong enough to turn them 90degrees to my foot....Maybe I am missing something here?


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## Philbert (Jul 9, 2010)

smokinj said:


> Long bars should be the only bars close to your feet and I really am not strong enough to turn them 90degrees to my foot....Maybe I am missing something here?



Maybe it is somebody else's bar?

Actually, I am surprised that the response to this thread has been so much in favor of specialty boots, especially considering the number of people who post on not wearing chaps.

I feel that steel toed boots are really a minimum level of foot protection that should be worn.

Philbert


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## smokinj (Jul 9, 2010)

Philbert said:


> Maybe it is somebody else's bar?
> 
> Actually, I am surprised that the response to this thread has been so much in favor of specialty boots, especially considering the number of people who post on mont wearing chaps.
> 
> ...



:agree2:

No dought about it and I would have the chainsaw boots if I could see where its going to help...I cut a lot and just cant rap my mind aroud where you could even get the bar in that area. Unless you work on top of the log. (my chaps cover my shoe laces)


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## stihl sawing (Jul 9, 2010)

Done this too mine a year ago, Definitely go with steel toes.


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## Philbert (Jul 9, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> Done this too mine a year ago, Definitely go with steel toes.



!!! Yikes !!! (and you are _STILL_ Sawing !)

Philbert


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## smokinj (Jul 9, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> Done this too mine a year ago, Definitely go with steel toes.





Thats where I would expect it..Great pic!


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## logbutcher (Jul 10, 2010)

Fast add on for steel toed protection.
When I HAD to get mandated training, PPE was a big part of the classes. Steel toed boots don't do anything to protect against the saw; in contact with the the boot, the chain usually slides up the foot @ WOT anyhow. Most foot saw slices are in the instep, not toes.
Steel toes protect primarily for log drops (yes, it can crush the foot) such as undercuts or blowdown messes. Then again, for some it's macho to cut in flip-flops.

Besides, what is anyone doing cutting near feet ? :monkey:

JMNSHO


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## Philbert (Jul 10, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Steel toed boots don't do anything to protect against the saw; in contact with the the boot, the chain usually slides up the foot @ WOT anyhow.



???

Seemed to work for stihl sawing in photo above. I could see it climbing up the boot if it was MY saw facing YOU and touching the toe of Your boot, but think that it would pull off of the boot (forward) if it was your own saw touching the toe of your own boot.

Of course, the steel toe boots do not provide the instep and side of the foot protection that chain saw boots do.

Philbert


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## smokinj (Jul 10, 2010)

philbert said:


> ???
> 
> Seemed to work for stihl sawing in photo above. I could see it climbing up the boot if it was my saw facing you and touching the toe of your boot, but think that it would pull off of the boot (forward) if it was your own saw touching the toe of your own boot.
> 
> ...




+1 but I think my chaps are long enough that it is not going to hit the side of my boot even if it where posiable the way I cut.


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## stihl sawing (Jul 10, 2010)

Philbert said:


> !!! Yikes !!! (and you are _STILL_ Sawing !)
> 
> Philbert


LOL, Yep, can't let a little boot cut stop ya.



smokinj said:


> Thats where I would expect it..Great pic!


It got my boot when i was bucking a large oak. Went through the round and hit the boot before i knew it.


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## smokinj (Jul 10, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> LOL, Yep, can't let a little boot cut stop ya.
> 
> It got my boot when i was bucking a large oak. Went through the round and hit the boot before i knew it.



I havent nick my boots yet, but my helper has nick his chaps...(I meen my chaps)


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## stihl sawing (Jul 10, 2010)

smokinj said:


> I havent nick my boots yet, but my helper has nick his chaps...(I meen my chaps)


LOL, I must be clumsy, I got my chaps a few years ago too.


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## smokinj (Jul 10, 2010)

stihl sawing said:


> LOL, I must be clumsy, I got my chaps a few years ago too.



I love the kid to death he is very quick, just cant seem to slow him down when he has a saw...He does good with a short bar just dont let him have anything over a 16in..lol


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## logbutcher (Jul 11, 2010)

Philbert said:


> *???*
> 
> Seemed to work for stihl sawing in photo above. I could see it climbing up the boot if it was MY saw facing YOU and touching the toe of Your boot, but think that it would pull off of the boot (forward) if it was your own saw touching the toe of your own boot.
> 
> ...



Phil:

Many examples of normal 'side' cutting in routine working that could place said chain on said boot at said angle to slice instep (IF operator is sloppy or inexperienced or plain worn out):

1. Ground Limbing .

2. Boring/plunge cuts.

3. Making felling cuts.

4. Side noodling large butts.

5. Back cuts.

6. Carving.

7. High limbing.

More....................... " ???????????????????? "


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## smokinj (Jul 11, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Phil:
> 
> Many examples of normal 'side' cutting in routine working that could place said chain on said boot at said angle to slice instep (IF operator is sloppy or inexperienced or plain worn out):
> 
> ...



I must cut differnt than you or just wear my chaps differnt. My chaps wrap around the boot you cant see any of the boot but the toe. I would say if you fill there is a risk on the way you cut or wear your chaps then I would buy a pair....."BE Safe"


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## Philbert (Jul 11, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Phil:Many examples of normal 'side' cutting in routine working that could place said chain on said boot at said angle to slice instep (IF operator is sloppy or inexperienced or plain worn out):



I don't doubt that 'climbing' could happen, and certainly agree that the CP-protective boots provide more protection; they also protect against side contact with the saw, where the toe is not involved.

I differ, however, with the comment, "_Steel toed boots don't do anything to protect against the saw_". I think that steel toed boots are a first step (if you will forgive the pun) toward foot protection when cutting, and much more protective that either a plain leather boot or a synthetic 'hard toe' boot.

Philbert


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## Tootall521 (Jul 11, 2010)

Why cant we get the quality and variety of boot that they have in Europe or Canada. Seems like we are pretty limited, you get on the internet and search for them and they have dozens of them overseas.


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## Philbert (Jul 11, 2010)

Tootall521 said:


> Why cant we get the quality and variety of boot that they have in Europe or Canada. Seems like we are pretty limited, you get on the internet and search for them and they have dozens of them overseas.



Cost is probably a big factor - a lot of guys don't want to pay $200 + for a pair of boots if they don't think that they need them. The only pair I have seen for around $100 is the Viking style rubber boots, referenced in some earlier posts in this thread.

There could be some import duties or tariffs on certain types of footwear that keep some of the foreign boots out, but that is hard to believe when all of our other footwear seems to come from overseas. 

The OSHA logging specialist here in Minnesota told me that chainsaw protective boots are required according to the way that the standards are interpreted here, but I will bet that the compliance rate is low.

Philbert


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## logbutcher (Jul 12, 2010)

smokinj said:


> I must cut differnt than you or just wear my chaps differnt. My chaps wrap around the boot you cant see any of the boot but the toe. I would say if you fill there is a risk on the way you cut or wear your chaps then I would buy a pair....."BE Safe"



Nope....no difference WITH full PPE. However: if you do
ground limbing or
high limbing or
plunge cutting or 
carving or
felling cuts or
blowdown clearring or
..............
Then there are many times you cut sideways for awhile. It's all part of using a saw.

Yes, be safe. I recently got flamed by one of the mini-machos wannabees here for even buying kevlar gloves (new for me). Hey, at this stage ANY extra protection is fine. Didn't have the G-2 for too long to use protection cutting, or climbing. In our time, no one thought of hearing protection around ordinance. Cocktail parties are lip reading time.

I will be coming down for breakfast.


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## JimiLL (Jul 12, 2010)

Unless the ends of ones chaps are strapped around and to the boot, im sure a chain would just wisk the flopping end away until it got to something that was a little more steadfast. Like your boot.


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## logbutcher (Jul 12, 2010)

JimiLL said:


> Unless the ends of ones chaps are strapped around and to the boot, im sure a chain would just wisk the flopping end away until it got to something that was a little more steadfast. Like your boot.



Damn, if we wore our chaps down to the toes those Fashion Police Woods Fairys would arrest us.:monkey:

Poll time: 
How Far Down Do You Wear Chaps?
1. Screw chaps, I never use 'em. I a pro.
2. Normal--chaps down to the ankles.
3. The Hell with Wood Fairys, mine are cut to the toes.


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## smokinj (Jul 12, 2010)

logbutcher said:


> Nope....no difference WITH full PPE. However: if you do
> ground limbing or
> high limbing or
> plunge cutting or
> ...




Yes I cut sideways all the time no dought about that even milling....I do all the above other than carving no art skills what so ever...Wish I did. I have the glove and also anti-vibe kelvar gloves, I own everthing that there is other than the chain saw boots...Hell I owen 4 pairs of chaps 3 helmets systems. Two of us cutting....I still fill like my head to toe is covered very well (that could always change) It could be the way I cut or just that the chaps are long...I will for go the chainsaw boots for the near future.


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## smokinj (Jul 12, 2010)

JimiLL said:


> Unless the ends of ones chaps are strapped around and to the boot, im sure a chain would just wisk the flopping end away until it got to something that was a little more steadfast. Like your boot.



I thought chaps are to be worn around the boot...lol with running bars like I have it is a concern 28,32,41 are what I use so the chaps are strap around the boot and cover the laces with a highier hill logger style boot.


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