# Huztl FarmerTec MS380, MS381, 038 Build Kit Start to Finish



## Bedford T (Feb 18, 2017)

Hot dignity dog they got the 038 ready to go. And its a little cheaper than the 440. I was completing an order for some MS660 parts to complete a saw for an engine I just built and this slapped me in my face, guess that will wait a while. Got one. $248.89

http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repai...uretor-Fuel-Tank-Cylinder-Piston-p367961.html

It does not say what size the cylinder is. I will build and give this to my son. I don't need another one, yeah I do. I always wanted one of these. When they told me the 070 and 038 were next out of the chute I did not think they meant anytime soon. Wonder what will happen to the 200t kit's chances?


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## rocketnorton (Feb 18, 2017)

subbed, hopin for comparo to "real" one.


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## merc_man (Feb 18, 2017)

Subbed. 

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## tbohn (Feb 24, 2017)

My 380 kit cleared customs in NY this morning. Not too much longer.


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## tbohn (Feb 24, 2017)

I might buy the 070 but I'm still on the fence.


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## Bedford T (Feb 24, 2017)

The 070 would match nicely with this mill

http://www.huztl.net/36-Inch-Holzff...-Milling-From-14-to-36-Guide-Bar-p228061.html

Otherwise it would be too big. Once it clears ny mine usually comes quickly. Except once it sat on a trailer at the local distribution center for 7 days. That was tuff to watch. I called and still got no movement and then bam


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## Bedford T (Feb 24, 2017)

I found this for 7$ and bought it. i was afraid they would not send a rim.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 24, 2017)

I wonder if the 038 will have a choke that doesn't stick. That seems to be a problem with the aftermarket filters..


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## Bedford T (Feb 24, 2017)

I will watch and report on that. Are you saying on a oem 038 when you install a AM filter it interferes with the choke?

Is there some adjustment you have been able to make it work?


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 24, 2017)

What I did on mine is to not overtighten the air filter nuts. It works fine if it is snug plus a small amount, tighten it really tight and it deforms the filter enough to make it stick. I'm not sure mine is even an aftermarket filter, I'll check but mine might be OEM. 
My original problem is, when I got the saw it didn't have an air filter cover or a cylinder cover so I went to the aftermarket for those. The cylinder cover was fine but the air filter cover never did fit just right at the center nut, it didn't seem to reach far enough into the air filter to lock. I spent a lot of time removing washers and trying different things until it's finally usable. It's possible I could buy a filter cover from another vendor or from Stihl and maybe not have a problem.
The air filter cover was a Huztl but the cylinder cover was a different Chinese vendor. I'm hoping you guys that buy the AM 038 kits don't have a problem with this..


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## Ozhoo (Feb 24, 2017)

They only have a 52mm jug listed which makes sense. If you're gonna lug that much weight around it should be over 70cc.

Old man Stihl would soil himself seeing a venerable work horse like the 038M being re-produced in chinookistain.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 24, 2017)

If old man Stihl had re-introduced the 038 it would cost $1000 or more and a lot of us wouldn't buy it. Plus this way we get to assemble our own rather than trust the mass production...


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## Ozhoo (Feb 24, 2017)

I can see it now... The Anniversary Edition 038M $1149 w/ 20" bar. All the weight of a 066 with the displacement of an 044... and gold plated flippy caps to add a little bling.


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## Bedford T (Feb 25, 2017)

I checked after tbohn said his had cleared customs and mine is just leaving the chinese mainland this weekend so it will be end of week before mine arrives. I started to ask "why me" but thought better of it. Maybe they forget to put the gold flippies in the box and needed the extra time.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 25, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I checked after tbohn said his had cleared customs and mine is just leaving the chinese mainland this weekend so it will be end of week before mine arrives. I started to ask "why me" but thought better of it. Maybe they forget to put the gold flippies in the box and needed the extra time.


 I hope for you that it doesn't have to go through Chicago...


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## rocketnorton (Feb 25, 2017)

am 038 & 026 af's have not worked for me. oe on those.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 25, 2017)

OE 024 and 026 sometimes not so good either.


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## rocketnorton (Feb 25, 2017)

yep [026] that's how I ended up w/2 china ones. found used oe after. sfsg.


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## Bedford T (Feb 25, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I hope for you that it doesn't have to go through Chicago...


I don't like the way that sounds. Me neither. It's been New York everytime so far


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 25, 2017)

When I order something from China the longest journey, timewise, is from Chicago to southern Indiana. The item tracks to Chicago then nothing for a couple of weeks or more then after you give up on it, it magically appears at my mailbox.


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## Bedford T (Feb 25, 2017)

That suxs. I did have an issue a couple months ago that drove me mad. It cleared customs lickity split and headed down eastern seaboard and got to my distribution center in Greensboro NC in one day and it sat there for 7 days. I got all twisted up. Called several offices and no one had a clue why. That actually made it worse. And bam it showed up on the 8th day in perfect condition inside and out with a perfect label. So I feel ya. Glad that's only happened once. The box did not look like it had been opened either.


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## Ozhoo (Feb 25, 2017)

Amerigringo bound SF Express packages are forwarded in either San Francisco or Jamaica, NY


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## tbohn (Feb 27, 2017)

I just checked and my package was in Des Moines at 00:16:00 today. Maybe 4 hours...maybe 4 days.


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## tbohn (Feb 27, 2017)

Anyone have an IPL for the ms380?


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

I checked mine this morning at 4am and it was still in China near Hong Kong from the map.

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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

I do give me minute

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## Ozhoo (Feb 27, 2017)

tbohn said:


> Anyone have an IPL for the ms380?



You got it


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

check your messages


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## dswensen (Feb 27, 2017)

This from the same guy who told ME not to get "all twisted up" when I couldn't get any confirmation of shipping or a tracking number for my 440 kit several weeks ago. Glad to see you are as impatient as I am. (grin)



Bedford T said:


> That suxs. I did have an issue a couple months ago that drove me mad. It cleared customs lickity split and headed down eastern seaboard and got to my distribution center in Greensboro NC in one day and it sat there for 7 days. I got all twisted up. Called several offices and no one had a clue why. That actually made it worse. And bam it showed up on the 8th day in perfect condition inside and out with a perfect label. So I feel ya. Glad that's only happened once. The box did not look like it had been opened either.


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

I thought it might be interesting to mention the updates the MS380 got from the 038 around 2003

tank caps
tank vent
choke shutter
suction hose
elastostart
chain tensioner

and the round name plate clipped to the fan housing rather than the shroud.
fan housing is different because of the round name plate
the shroud had an unbroken gunsight and a different contour, carb box got a new contour
the tank vent is the 0000 350 5800 mushroom with craters.
ground wire has the connector sleeve we see today
the choke shutter is two piece now 1119 120 2900 flexibly connecting together
suction hose is S shaped 1119 358 7701
fan housing besides whats already been mentioned the air intake holes were enlarged
hand guard screw mounting point now uses a hollow rivet and a washer
chain tensioner went from a front to a side tensioner with the bar plate

***the new air filter has been strengthened 1119 120 1604 1119 120 1621

so I can assume that means the 038 crankcase is different from the MS380 because of the chain tensioner moving from the front to the side.


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

swesen you gotta admit seeing something sit 40 miles from your house for a week would spark you. my memory for you is different, i was trying to show you where to look for the information that would help you. i found my tracking number and can see my current kit is taken a ride around china, i imagine its on the back of a bike or a donkey. hate your were sore about me helping with suggestions on how to find your tracking number.


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

the ipl just shows one cylinder size the 52mm. i know it was said huztl just showed the 52mm. 12mm wrist pin

its only got one pawl, the starter rope is 4.5mm

carbs c3-s148, c3-s149 as of 2010
bing 48a101c , 48a125a

just one level on the buffers

two base gaskets
1119 029 2302
1119 029 2303 1mm low compression gasket


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## merc_man (Feb 27, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> If old man Stihl had re-introduced the 038 it would cost $1000 or more and a lot of us wouldn't buy it. Plus this way we get to assemble our own rather than trust the mass production...


That saw here cost 1200 new back in the day. With 18" bar

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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

Canada and Australia the two most costly places for saws


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## merc_man (Feb 27, 2017)

You got that rite. Everything more here.

My inlaw was pricing a new ms 441 the other week and was gonna be close to 1500 out the door. 

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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

Show him the kits. Send him this link
www.huztl.net yam that's high

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## merc_man (Feb 27, 2017)

Ill send him the link. thanks

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## tbohn (Feb 27, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I thought it might be interesting to mention the updates the MS380 got from the 038 around 2003
> 
> tank caps
> tank vent
> ...


I'm looking forward to comparing it to my 038's. I have a super, magnum, magnum II, and standard.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 27, 2017)

Mine's a Magnum but you'd never know it by looking..I've had to replace all the plastic and the new plastic doesn't have stickers..


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 27, 2017)

Another thing I noticed is some use Caber rings which mine came from Greece. They never have used a tracking number on anything I've bought from them, currently I'm waiting on a set of seals for an 041 but can't find out where they are or when they'll get here..


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

That makes it hard to schedule.



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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Another thing I noticed is some use Caber rings which mine came from Greece. They never have used a tracking number on anything I've bought from them, currently I'm waiting on a set of seals for an 041 but can't find out where they are or when they'll get here..


 I thought eBay required tracking so you must be buying direct?

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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 27, 2017)

No, it's coming through ebay. I've never had trouble with the shipments from Greece taking too long however. Just thought tracking might help me know when to look for them. On this particular part it really doesn't matter much, it's my saw I'm working on and will not be using it in the near future..


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 27, 2017)

No sooner than I posted the above, the seals arrived...got them in the saw already. Now all I have to do is put the rest of it together after a pressure/vac test.
Order date for the seals, February 20. Pretty fast shipping!


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

I smoked many years ago. Lite up in a restaurant and bam your food arrives. 

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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 27, 2017)

These were very easy to install, didn't use anything but my fingers. I thought that might be too easy so I pulled them back out and put Motoseal around them. Let it dry and it might be good enough. If not I may have to go OEM.


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

Hopefully that will work. Are you going to do a vacuum/pressure test today

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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 27, 2017)

Probably try to sneak it in tomorrow. Been waiting for a phone call today which didn't come but I got the wife to do the phone work tomorrow. I guess the Motoseal will be dry by tomorrow afternoon. If it passes I'll try to slap the rest of the saw together while the weather is fairly warm..


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## Bedford T (Feb 27, 2017)

I just was curious and I took a peak and that box has hit new york. So it was near hong kong china this morning and here now. Long plane ride.


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## Mad Professor (Feb 27, 2017)

Speaking of 038M clones..........

http://www.precisiontooling.eu/chainsaws/


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## tbohn (Feb 28, 2017)

15 minutes away from my house at 02:56:00 today...


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## weimedog (Feb 28, 2017)

tbohn said:


> I might buy the 070 but I'm still on the fence.


Get one...


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

Almost there. Cool. I will be couple days behind you mine had to rest and it stopped for breakfast somewhere in new York. Might stay and have dinner

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## tbohn (Feb 28, 2017)

weimedog said:


> Get one...


Depends on the price at this point.


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

They may release the husky 272 before the 070 so don't be surprised. It could be a line jumper. Both kits are being assembled.

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## tbohn (Feb 28, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> They may release the husky 272 before the 070 so don't be surprised. It could be a line jumper. Both kits are being assembled.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


I don't understand a 272 kit when they already have a 365/372 kit.


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

You make a valid point. I just get the info that's far as l can help. I only mentioned it because I was told next two kits were the 038 070. Then we got a possible line jumper which is good for husky kit enthusiast. We won't know till they do it. I like you have a eye on the 070 because I want to do some milling.

You have seen this right?
http://www.huztl.net/36-Inch-Holzff...-Milling-From-14-to-36-Guide-Bar-p228061.html

That's what I call a good reason


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 28, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Hopefully that will work. Are you going to do a vacuum/pressure test today
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


 Pressure test was this morning, failed miserably but it wasn't the seal. Now it's the oil pump leaking like crazy. I pulled it out and didn't notice any O rings except the big one on the front. I think I'll have to take the pump shaft apart and replace the O ring inside the pump body..probably just put a little Dirko around the end of the pump upon install, that big O ring on the end is kinda expensive so trying not to replace it unless I have to..I think I already have more in this saw than it's worth..


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## Dieseldash (Feb 28, 2017)

tbohn said:


> I don't understand a 272 kit when they already have a 365/372 kit.



The 272 is a great platform. One of the iconic Husqvarna saws. It would be the easiest to build of the kits they currently offer. They are a joy to wrench on. Hopefully they price it cheap.


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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 28, 2017)

Dieseldash said:


> The 272 is a great platform. One of the iconic Husqvarna saws. It would be the easiest to build of the kits they currently offer. They are a joy to wrench on. Hopefully they price it cheap.


 It will probably be less than the 372 kit..


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Pressure test was this morning, failed miserably but it wasn't the seal. Now it's the oil pump leaking like crazy. I pulled it out and didn't notice any O rings except the big one on the front. I think I'll have to take the pump shaft apart and replace the O ring inside the pump body..probably just put a little Dirko around the end of the pump upon install, that big O ring on the end is kinda expensive so trying not to replace it unless I have to..I think I already have more in this saw than it's worth..


One thing about those tests they sure shorten the guessing game. 

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## a. palmer jr. (Feb 28, 2017)

Right now I'm guessing how many places these saws can leak! A lot of people around here like the 041s but I think I'll stick to my 039, seems a lot simpler..


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## tbohn (Feb 28, 2017)

Dieseldash said:


> The 272 is a great platform. One of the iconic Husqvarna saws. It would be the easiest to build of the kits they currently offer. They are a joy to wrench on. Hopefully they price it cheap.


Yeah. They probably need to consider what will have the most demand for the kits but also need to consider the number of used saws in the market that need parts.


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

One thing is for certain it's all coming to us. They have opened the spigot.


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## tbohn (Feb 28, 2017)

It arrived. They are now bubble wrapping several parts like case, cylinder, flywheel, clutch/drum and a couple more.

The case looks to be equal quality of the other huztl cases I have worked on.

The cylinder bore looks good but the plug threads are very rough and not machined. It also has a partial divider protruding into the intake port. I don't know if this is on the oem cylinders.


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

That looks like a defect. But it also looks smoother generally. They said they would fix the packing. Gotta hand it to them. They are their word.


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

Wonder if working an old plug in and out would smooth it up. Or are the threads missing?


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

And the locator pins are in place too


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## davhul (Feb 28, 2017)

Some old saws had that in the intake. I can't recall all which ones


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

Good to know.


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

Hurry up postman?


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## tbohn (Feb 28, 2017)

Photos of plug and decomp threads along with other cylinder photos.

Mine did come with a spur sprocket. The plastic is typical of all the huztl kits. The crank is shrink wrapped and bubble wrapped. It has an excellent finish on all surfaces. By far better than previous huztl cranks. The fasteners appear to be grouped for the area they are used.


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## Bedford T (Feb 28, 2017)

Do you think you will need a thread chaser? I can't tell from here.


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## tbohn (Feb 28, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Do you think you will need a thread chaser? I can't tell from here.


I can't thread a plug in by hand even one turn.


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## Mad Professor (Feb 28, 2017)

davhul said:


> Some old saws had that in the intake. I can't recall all which ones



The 038 series had the protrusion on the cylinder end of the intake port. So did the 034 but not the 036. I believe to support the rings.

In the pictured cylinder the intake protrusion should be centered in the port. At least the OEM ones are.

Also the chamfering of that port is _*fugly. *_The end of the ring support had way too much of the lining ground away at the tip, it should just be a chamfer, and the top right it looks almost like a gouge by the grinder rather than a chamfer. You can always blend in a proper chamfer, but you can't put the lining back on once it's gone......

How does the shapes and insides of the other ports look? Is the lining good up to the top of the bore?


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## tbohn (Feb 28, 2017)

Mad Professor said:


> The 038 series had the protrusion on the cylinder end of the intake port. So did the 034 but not the 036. I believe to support the rings.
> 
> In the pictured cylinder the intake protrusion should be centered in the port. At least the OEM ones are.
> 
> ...


The chamfering is there but it rough. I will be touching them up. I will definitely be checking if the rings drop below this piece. The exhaust and transfer ports have some slag in them that I will try to clean up.


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## davhul (Feb 28, 2017)

That's correct about ring support. I believe the 084/088 also has it


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## Ozhoo (Feb 28, 2017)

As mentioned, the tonsil is there to add support to the rings. The rings only ride down it for a couple mm. That said, that's one ugly tonsil.


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

It look like the only thing to install prior to putting the two case halves together is the oil pick-up assembly. You can't do that after its together. Obviously the crank goes in too.

The bearings are nice too.


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## Ozhoo (Mar 1, 2017)

The oil filter/hose can go in or be replaced at any time. You can do it your way, but as we say in ol' Mexico, NO NECESITO


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

How do you put it in later?


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

The cases went together easily. Case halves in oven and crank in freezer. Crank dropped right in on tapered end and the clutch side easily pulled in with the m5x18 bolts. I used motoseal 1 on both sides of the gasket.

I left the seals in place. The clutch end of the crank is stepped and it started to pucker the seal. I used a small screw driver to gently get the seals past the step and everything looks good.

I centered the crank in the case leaving about 54 mils of clearance on both sides. It spins freely. Now off to work.


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## davhul (Mar 1, 2017)

Looks good. I always worry that the spring came off the back of the seal


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

Stihl shows using the stihl hook to remove the oil line. So it appears then that connector is permanent more or less. I am going to look into it more but if that is a fact. I want an OEM connector. They would have to be made really well to be able to plug and unplug the oil hose remotely. And they are only 3$


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## Adam08ski (Mar 1, 2017)

tbohn said:


> It arrived. They are now bubble wrapping several parts like case, cylinder, flywheel, clutch/drum and a couple more.
> 
> The case looks to be equal quality of the other huztl cases I have worked on.
> 
> The cylinder bore looks good but the plug threads are very rough and not machined. It also has a partial divider protruding into the intake port. I don't know if this is on the oem cylinders.


I have just put a farmertec 52mm p&c (with a couple of cabers) on a OEM but blown 038 super (bit of grinding of the cylinder needed to make it fit) that needed a new intake boot due to a lean failure. Mine looked rough on the chamfers, the intake flange and the plugs were machined after casting though. Mine didn't have a de-comp hole. Works a treat so far and is strong.... Oh I base deleted the gasket and modded the muffler..


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## Mad Professor (Mar 1, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Stihl shows using the stihl hook to remove the oil line. So it appears then that connector is permanent more or less. I am going to look into it more but if that is a fact. I want an OEM connector. They would have to be made really well to be able to plug and unplug the oil hose remotely. And they are only 3$



A long set of big curved hemostats works great for oil and fuel lines inside of tanks. 

Mine move back and forth between my chainsaw toolbox and ocean fishing tackle box, I need to get another.........


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## Mad Professor (Mar 1, 2017)

tbohn said:


> It look like the only thing to install prior to putting the two case halves together is the oil pick-up assembly. You can't do that after its together. Obviously the crank goes in too.
> 
> The bearings are nice too.



Is the oil line connector metal (brass) or plastic? I can't remember what the OEM one (1118 028 7400) is made of?

Also, were there any markings on the crank bearings so you could tell manufacture, or were those covered up by the seals?


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

I am in the middle of calling all the dealers in driving distance to see if they have one on the shelf. Two mechanics could not recall about the connector. As always will report what I find


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

Ozhoo said:


> The oil filter/hose can go in or be replaced at any time. You can do it your way, but as we say in ol' Mexico, NO NECESITO


You would have to fish it in through the bar oil opening.


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

Mad Professor said:


> Is the oil line connector metal (brass) or plastic? I can't remember what the OEM one (1118 028 7400) is made of?
> 
> Also, were there any markings on the crank bearings so you could tell manufacture, or were those covered up by the seals?


There was a steel oil line connector already installed in the case. I could not see any markings on the bearings.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

The thing is you are connecting to another hose/pipe that does not look replaceable. Was it metal?


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

Cool, on the metal connector being in place. Looking at a book can be deceiving.


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

davhul said:


> Looks good. I always worry that the spring came off the back of the seal


That is a potential concern. The lip seal had just started to catch on the crank step when I adjusted it. It was never completely inverted.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

This could be of help in the future. If your kit gets shipped SF Express which is pretty quick and you see it get to NY on the east coast it gets handed off to another carrier and your tracking updates get all fuzzy. I found a US customer service number for SF manned by a very well spoken staff that verified me and gave me the delivery info plus the new UPS tracking number so the tracking would then be in real time. its 855-nine01-1133.

Not that anyone would ever wonder when their kit was coming.


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

The connector pin bearing would not fit all the way into the piston until I filed some casting seams. 
The squish is 25 mils without the base gasket. I with delete the gasket on my kit. The base gasket is a good quality fiber.


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

It's built. The quality of the parts were very high quality. Probably the best Huztl kit I've done. The clutch and drum were oem quality and the drum was Stihl branded. The flywheel was also very high quality. The plastic on the rear handle towards the top in the carburetor area was a little flimsy but servicable.

The top cover looked almost brown in indoor lighting. It looked fine outside. 

I will start it tomorrow after the motoseal cures overnight.

No missing parts. Only two parts left over. The base gasket and an extra insert for the chain brake handle.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

Awesome. Mine is scheduled tomorrow by UPS. They just get better. 

I came home today and found a chainsaw that was mine being shipped to me Literally sitting next to the mailbox post. Guy drives by in a truck sees the saw box thinks it's lost and needs a home throws it in his truck to protect it and I never see it again. Yeah post office


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

I found a helpful tool. If you have never seen or used press fluid it was my first encounter and I was impressed and since it is better and about the same price is everything else I though I would show it to you. Made that AV go right in. Putting in oil hoses through the crankcase can be aggrevating and not with this.


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## davhul (Mar 1, 2017)

That clutch drum is a fake. And is worrisome. Here is a oem. This isn't a 038 drum but they all have about the same markings. And the casting looks rougher


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## Dieseldash (Mar 1, 2017)

Nice work tbohn!

We are going to need an official Huztl MS380 vs MS440 shoot out comparison once they're de-bugged.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

tbohn said:


> It's built. The quality of the parts were very high quality. Probably the best Huztl kit I've done. The clutch and drum were oem quality and the drum was Stihl branded. The flywheel was also very high quality. The plastic on the rear handle towards the top in the carburetor area was a little flimsy but servicable.
> 
> The top cover looked almost brown in indoor lighting. It looked fine outside.
> 
> ...


All of it are copies. You said it was OEM quailty. Mark's should not matter although I would prefer they not bother stamping them. It no secret they are copies. I understand the cast marks carrying though.


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## davhul (Mar 1, 2017)

Yeah. I've heard of AM stamping Stihl on parts but never seen it. The problem is the guy that could pay 35$ for a 3$ drum. Stihl puts that S with a square on there also. Interesting


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

The quality on the clutch and drum are a step above the other Huztl clutches and drums I have used and I would have a difficult time telling them from oem.


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## davhul (Mar 1, 2017)

It does look good. We'll see what Bedford gets. They swap up so many manufactures who knows.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

I will post it when I get my paws on it. Ifs it's like today they will toss it out of their truck as they drive by.


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

There seems to be excessive play in the piston connector pin. At the top and bottom of the stroke, the piston stops momentarily and there is loud clicking as the rod moves up and down in the roller bearing.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

So the wrist pin you had to open the area to accept is suspect or the bearings. Do I understand correctly?


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

I will look at anything you want the minute mine arrives if you wait, which you likely will not.

You certain the rings have no place in the sound. We have that tonsil to stoke them.


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

I'm pretty certain the bearing diameter is too big and there is slop between the wrist pin and the bearing. I can rotate the flywheel back and forth a couple of degrees without moving the piston.
I guess I'm pulling the cylinder off.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

I would too. It would eat at me.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

Any way it could be slop at the flywheel like the woodruff slipped out when you were not looking. You are judging movement from the flywheel is why I mention it.


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

tbohn said:


> I'm pretty certain the bearing diameter is too big and there is slop between the wrist pin and the bearing. I can rotate the flywheel back and forth a couple of degrees without moving the piston.
> I guess I'm pulling the cylinder off.


It turns out there is almost 1/8 inch space between the bearing and the hole in the connecting rod. The bearing fits the wrist pin snugly.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 1, 2017)

tbohn said:


> It turns out there is almost 1/8 inch space between the bearing and the hole in the connecting rod. The bearing fits the wrist pin snugly.


 Is there some kind of insert missing? Or is it possible the clutch bearing is a different size than the wrist pin bearing?


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## tbohn (Mar 1, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Is there some kind of insert missing? Or is it possible the clutch bearing is a different size than the wrist pin bearing?


Nothing shown on the IPL.


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## Bedford T (Mar 1, 2017)

Dang,


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## Mad Professor (Mar 2, 2017)

Good thing you did not try to start it..........

Wasn't it a little sloppy when you were slipping the piston into the cylinder?

Looks like you got the wrong upper end bearing.

What is O.D. of wrist pin, I.D. of rod, width of rod?

O.E.M. rod bearing is 12 X 16 X 13 mm

No way to mix it up with the clutch bearing as that is a caged dual needle bearing 12 X 16 X 24 mm

How much did you have to grind to get the bearing to clear the bosses in the piston?

Is it possible they shipped a 044/046 wrist pin bearing ? 12 X 15 X 15 mm That bearing would fit the pin, be small in the rod, and fat in width.


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## tbohn (Mar 2, 2017)

Mad Professor said:


> Good thing you did not try to start it..........
> 
> Wasn't it a little sloppy when you were slipping the piston into the cylinder?
> 
> ...


I'm not sure where my brain was when I was installing it. When I took it apart it was obvious.

The pin is 12mm. The bearing O.D. measures 14.88mm. The length is 14.18mm. The opening in the rod is 16mm. I think you right about getting 440/460 bearing.

The bearing fit into the piston but the pin was very tight. There were some small casting seams on the piston that protruded into the space where bearing fits. I filed them so the bearing would slide all the way so the pin went in easily.

Huztl has been good about making things right it just takes weeks to get replacements. I have a bad cylinder and bad coil on a 440 kit and this issue with the 380 kit. I am also going to ask for a different top cover. I can't get over the burnt orange color.


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## tbohn (Mar 2, 2017)

....and the rod is 13 mm wide.


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## Mad Professor (Mar 2, 2017)

tbohn said:


> ....and the rod is 13 mm wide.



Looks like you have a spare upper bearing for the 440 

Edit : stihl dealer may stock or be able to get correct bearing. Also a bunch on flea bay


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## Bedford T (Mar 3, 2017)

What happened to the edit buttons?


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## Bedford T (Mar 3, 2017)

If you would like to know what comes in the box from www.huztl.net I did a video showing you each part. There is no building or anything of that natural just a tour of its contents. Mine was packed really well too and had the wrong bearing as well.


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## albert (Mar 3, 2017)

Is the arrow on the piston toward the ring pin side?


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## Bedford T (Mar 3, 2017)

Arrow points toward the exhaust area and kinda is between the pins


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 3, 2017)

If the pins are on one side of the piston wouldn't that be the intake side?


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## Bedford T (Mar 3, 2017)

I could not get a better photo there is a pin to the left of the arrow and one right beside my thumb. They are not equal in distance.

I am not sure why he wanted that info. I mark the top of the piston over the pins with a sharpie so I never have to hunt them again. Hard to see with the little metal hola hoops in place


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## s sidewall (Mar 3, 2017)

Just curious, are the kits complete and how well do the saws hold up?

Steve


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## tbohn (Mar 3, 2017)

s sidewall said:


> Just curious, are the kits complete and how well do the saws hold up?
> 
> Steve


I had it complete and noticed clicking noises when I turned it over by hand. It turned out the wrist bearing that was sent with kit was the wrong one. I notified huztl through their website. They requested photos and sent them. No response so far. I've built several 660 kits, a 365 and a ms440 kit. I think this one is the highest quality kit so far for me.

The husky 365, the ms440, and now the ms380 have had issues to keep them from running. Huztl made good on replacing defective parts but I did have to wait weeks for the parts. I can live with the delay but it might not be tolerated by others. The 440 and 365 had bad coils. The 380 had the wrong bearing.


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## Bedford T (Mar 3, 2017)

The kits are complete, like with anything there can be packing errors. How well will you care for the saw likely is an indication of how long it will last. They are not junk. If you had a Stihl in one hand and a Farmertec in the other and was not a purist you would likely would not see a difference. Look at one of the kit videos you can see the parts well enough to judge the quality. You can cut with the best of them. 

The cases are made of the same material, you have some freedom with a kit to customize from the start. There is a lot of material to help you. They are copies.


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## s sidewall (Mar 3, 2017)

I'm not a purist that's for sure, besides having a lot of older Poulans, Mac's and some Echos. Had thought about the Husky model and also the Stihl MS660. Just didn't know if they would last as long as they have and at the price they wanted for them, I just didn't know how durable they would be. Never built a saw from scratch, have rebuild a few. 

Steve


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

@tbohn is this the way you have your brake configured. I have never seen one like this. It appears different from the 038 service manual I have. The service manual i have is ancient it's written on papyrus.

You of course can't see the spring hidden below the plate that attaches to the handle with the nylon bushing covering the linkage. Could not find an example.

That is one heavy duty brake band.


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

I was looking at this new carb and opened it up. You don't see this everyday.

I thought this was a bing copy. Not like any zama I have ever seen


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## tbohn (Mar 5, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> @tbohn is this the way you have your brake configured. I have never seen one like this. It appears different from the 038 service manual I have. The service manual i have is ancient it's written on papyrus.
> 
> You of course can't see the spring hidden below the plate that attaches to the handle with the nylon bushing covering the linkage. Could not find an example.
> 
> That is one heavy duty brake band.


Yes. That looks correct.


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

I had the plate upside down and it would not move the linkage but after much deliberation it was as easy as flipping it over.


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## grizz55chev (Mar 5, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> If the pins are on one side of the piston wouldn't that be the intake side?


That arrow is pointing assbackwards, the arrow always (99.999 percent ) point towards the ex.


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

That did not register with me. I have yet to put my top on. I doubt that error is correct but I have reached out to them to find out one way or the other in case they had a reason.


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

I took off some plastic beside the switch that was in the way. Much better now.


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## s sidewall (Mar 5, 2017)

No saw in the picture, come on now, what's a tub picture without a saw. 

Steve


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 5, 2017)

grizz55chev said:


> That arrow is pointing assbackwards, the arrow always (99.999 percent ) point towards the ex.


 That's why I asked. You wouldn't want your ring ends pointed toward the hot side..


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> That's why I asked. You wouldn't want your ring ends pointed toward the hot side..


I am building the saw and only have an IPL and on this one thats tuff and my focus was on the case part. I am making videos. The brake assembly took me much longer than I expected but I whooped it. The assemblies are similar but very different. I wrote them in case there is something we need to know and so they can stop the kits and fix it or put a big note in the box if its an error like it looks.

My bearing should be here tomorrow and I can put the top on. I am going with the arrow is point the wrong way unless I hear from them first. Will advise when I hear.


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

s sidewall said:


> No saw in the picture, come on now, what's a tub picture without a saw.
> 
> Steve


If you are talking to me I don't have enough to show you yet. But will have plenty to show soon. I showed what I could before it all becomes white noise. That mod to the handle sure made it nicer to work that switch, it just hurt my thumb to move it, it was sharp. No more!


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## Mad Professor (Mar 5, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I am building the saw and only have an IPL and on this one thats tuff and my focus was on the case part. I am making videos. The brake assembly took me much longer than I expected but I whooped it. The assemblies are similar but very different. I wrote them in case there is something we need to know and so they can stop the kits and fix it or put a big note in the box if its an error like it looks.
> 
> My bearing should be here tomorrow and I can put the top on. I am going with the arrow is point the wrong way unless I hear from them first. Will advise when I hear.



Before you put the rings on, slide the piston inside the cylinder with arrow pointing both ways, and have a look inside both the exhaust and intake port. I think you will see in one orientation the end gaps will travel across the port.

One other thing before you button the top up. Check your ring end gaps and P/C clearance at the skirt. You can do this crudely with some feeler gauges.


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## s sidewall (Mar 5, 2017)

Who is putting the ring gaps to the exhaust port, that's wrong, gap toward the intake if I'm not mistaken.

Steve


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

They wrote back and in fact that is an error but only on a few of them. They have set a correction in motion. And on the few pistons that are pointing in the wrong direction just reverse the piston, but all futures ones are will be corrected.


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

s sidewall said:


> Who is putting the ring gaps to the exhaust port, that's wrong, gap toward the intake if I'm not mistaken.
> 
> Steve


Anybody that does not notice will, if you just follow the arrow. I just posted on it.


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## Bedford T (Mar 5, 2017)

Mad Professor said:


> Before you put the rings on, slide the piston inside the cylinder with arrow pointing both ways, and have a look inside both the exhaust and intake port. I think you will see in one orientation the end gaps will travel across the port.
> 
> One other thing before you button the top up. Check your ring end gaps and P/C clearance at the skirt. You can do this crudely with some feeler gauges.


They looked. They are quick. Soon as they hit the warehouse he had inventoried and assessed. But your right checking it a good idea.


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## grizz55chev (Mar 5, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> That's why I asked. You wouldn't want your ring ends pointed toward the hot side..


I think it's more of where the ring ends pass intake and transferes, you could hang a ring if things aren't in there right.


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## Bedford T (Mar 6, 2017)

Abridged video of the case assembly. If you need more look at the MS660 video I will put a link for that one as well. The top end I hope to make today if the bearing comes.












The MS660 case assembly in full if you need more, they go together the same way.

Huztl Farmertec Workshop Series MS660 Simple Crankcase Assembly


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## Bedford T (Mar 6, 2017)

Fuel tank pressure test

Huztl FarmerTec MS380 Chainsaw Build Kit Workshop Series - Tank Pressure Test


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## Bedford T (Mar 6, 2017)

The MS380 Video 1 of 3 on assembling the engine

Huztl FarmerTec MS380 Chainsaw Build Kit Workshop Series - Engine Install Step 1 of 3


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## Bedford T (Mar 6, 2017)

Installing the components like the brake and etc on the case of the MS380

Huztl FarmerTec MS380 Chainsaw Build Kit Workshop Series - Engine Install Step 2 of 3


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## s sidewall (Mar 6, 2017)

I watched some of your videos on YouTube Sunday, I really liked them. [emoji106]

Steve


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## Bedford T (Mar 6, 2017)

Thank you sir


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## Bedford T (Mar 7, 2017)

Huztl FarmerTec MS380 Chainsaw Build Kit Workshop Series - Engine Install Step 3 of 3one

in this video I assemble the engine, the video I am uploading now 3two I am attaching the engine to the handle and all things there after up till I put the orange parts on the top at the end of that video which is the last video in the MS380 build kit series.


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## Bedford T (Mar 7, 2017)

And the last one attaching the engine to the handle and beyond.

Huztl FarmerTec MS380 Chainsaw Build Kit Workshop Series - Engine Install Step 3 of 3two


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## tbohn (Mar 11, 2017)

Still waiting for the bearing...

My ring retaining pins are opposite the arrow on my piston. They are on the intake side.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 11, 2017)

tbohn said:


> Still waiting for the bearing...
> 
> My ring retaining pins are opposite the arrow on my piston. They are on the intake side.


 Retaining pins on intake side is a good thing. Stihl dealer might have the bearing if you're getting tired of waiting, surely wouldn't cost that much.


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## Bedford T (Mar 11, 2017)

From my understanding not something they usually stock at dealer but distributor usually does.


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## tbohn (Mar 11, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Retaining pins on intake side is a good thing. Stihl dealer might have the bearing if you're getting tired of waiting, surely wouldn't cost that much.


I checked two local dealers they did not have them in stock.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 11, 2017)

The only thing I might have would be used..might have discarded it though..


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## rocketnorton (Mar 11, 2017)

under $20. here.


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## Bedford T (Mar 11, 2017)

I paid like 10$ from a dealer that had one in stock from long ago. I would hope your dealer could order it in a couple of days


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## Bedford T (Mar 12, 2017)

i noticed that the last few shipments have traveled through these cities before being sent to New York.

Leaves FarmerTec
Quzhou City
Hangzhou City
Shanghia City
to New York

Tbohn surely yours is going to be on your door step Monday, i expect my shipment by Wednesday if all goes the same way.


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## s sidewall (Mar 13, 2017)

To bad they don't have a warehouse here in the states.

Steve


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 13, 2017)

s sidewall said:


> To bad they don't have a warehouse here in the states.
> 
> Steve


 Actually, there is a dealer or two that has aftermarket Chinese parts here in the states in California. Vostore is one of them..I've bought PC kits from them before, good stuff!


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## s sidewall (Mar 13, 2017)

Whole saw kits, not just bits and pieces.

Steve


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## Bedford T (Mar 13, 2017)

Whole saws would be great but I can't even find bits and pieces locally. I find that so weird. The world must be filled with wild things. I have thought about stores often that would carry a full range of parts, like old timey auto parts stores with stuff stacked to the ceiling. Then I would wake up.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 13, 2017)

s sidewall said:


> Whole saw kits, not just bits and pieces.
> 
> Steve


 There were some whole saw kits on ebay but they cost a lot more than the Huztl kits. I was talking about parts for the kits that came up missing..


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## s sidewall (Mar 13, 2017)

Thats why they need one in the states, order from them for kits and parts, that way you don't have to wait so long.

Steve


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 13, 2017)

That's usually what I look for when I need a P/C kit, one that is already in the States unless a customer doesn't mind waiting, then I go for the best price. On the Chinese ones, I try to get one from a company I've already bought from..


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## Bedford T (Mar 13, 2017)

i just found out my stuff is hung up in chinese customs. i guess its bound to happen sometime. they said they got a hold of it friday.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 13, 2017)

Yours will probably not linger there long. Chinese customs are probably a lot quicker than US customs.


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## s sidewall (Mar 13, 2017)

Found some guy hiding in a cylinder.

Steve


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## Bedford T (Mar 13, 2017)

My first trip though the maze. The tracking never stalled before. Tbohn's shipment seems behind too and that might be why. I was warned it could happen and did from time to time normally at random. Trouble is they have my toys in that box[emoji38]


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 14, 2017)

I've had it happen too, it hits about 4 or 5 places in China then they finally ship it out. As far as fast shipping I trust them better than our customs in Chicago. They lost one of my cylinder kits and I had to buy another to finish a job I was working on. It eventually came about 2 months afterward. I'll be prepared for the next one though.


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## Bedford T (Mar 14, 2017)

It did go fast. Now it's tied up in a snow storm! Lol


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## s sidewall (Mar 14, 2017)

Wouldn't you know it.

Steve


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 14, 2017)

Next will probably be a government holiday..


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## Bedford T (Mar 14, 2017)

Lol for sure


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## s sidewall (Mar 14, 2017)

Chinese spring break 

Steve


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## Bedford T (Mar 14, 2017)

They know how to party, I have said that before.


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## Bedford T (Mar 15, 2017)

I got the screw that goes into the cylinder that holds the rubber bushing to the shroud on one side. I forgot to take a photo of it but the part # is
0000 963 0808. It was [email protected]$ @ dealer


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 15, 2017)

I've always been able to take those screws out with a set of needle nose vice grips..


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## tbohn (Mar 20, 2017)

Still no joy. The shipments seem to be taking a long time from China lately.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 20, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I got the screw that goes into the cylinder that holds the rubber bushing to the shroud on one side. I forgot to take a photo of it but the part # is
> 0000 963 0808. It was [email protected]$ @ dealer


 Yeah, I thought that was what it was. The top ones are just screws. I guess a guy could take any bolt that size and cut the head off it and round it out a little.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 20, 2017)

tbohn said:


> Still no joy. The shipments seem to be taking a long time from China lately.


 Has it left China or is the hangup in the US?


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## Bedford T (Mar 21, 2017)

I got mine today. I got it assembled. The cowl will not fit or maybe it will and I was just tired. I set it aside and will go back to it tomorrow. My jug leaked and when I pulled it the jug had dirko on it but not the case surface was clean as a whistle. I hit it with the little wheel that removes dirko so well and re did it. My dirko tube sprung a leak and my hands got red. After the drama was over I got good pressure and vacuum tests. My handle had already been tested and was good. The vent was slow to leak so I put a OEM on it.

It was dark and I could not pull it hard enough to crank it. I am fairly certain I set the carb screws some time ago to one out. It has more compression than my 660 or feels like it.

I took it in my Stihl dealer today to get a rubber cork to fit in the manifold to help me with pressure testing and he said it looked top notch. The handle was not on yet.

I am a little concerned about the throttle rod, maybe there is no reason to be, it feels like two settings. I checked the choke it's kicking the lever on the air filter so I should be getting choke.

I will try it again tomorrow. I need to eat and relax now. I had it completely broken down and so when parts arrived had it reassembled in about 4 hours including resetting the jug again.

I got some larger spikes for it.


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## tbohn (Mar 21, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Has it left China or is the hangup in the US?


It shipped on the 4th. The tracking stops on March 8th in China.


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## Bedford T (Mar 21, 2017)

Have you messaged them using the website system and asked them about it? Something is wrong.


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## tbohn (Mar 21, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Have you messaged them using the website system and asked them about it? Something is wrong.


I ordered a backup too from them. One of them will show up. If you need a working saw in less than a month this is not the path to take.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 21, 2017)

China shipments may be backed up because so many people are ordering from them. I've talked to a few guys around here and they never heard that you could order a complete saw from China that you assemble yourself. When you sell stuff cheap they beat a path to your door..


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## Bedford T (Mar 21, 2017)

Mine got held up in the snow storm. It arrived well packed. I look forward to messing with it tomorrow again. 

With these the pulse comes from a hole in the wall. You gotta line the manifold up with the notch on the outside so it does not cover the hole on the inside. When I did my tests I could not figure out how to test the pulse with that setup. Just seems like an easy problem if everything does not line up. I feel mine did line up. Just the way they were designed then. My caps did not leak. After the pressure test I knew the fuel tank was tight. But the oil cap holding was nice too.

The shrouds holes did not seem to line up and it was evident around the decompression valve. I will have to drill it before it has enough room to pop. It popped every pull, of course shroud was off.


----------



## Bedford T (Mar 22, 2017)

I found some information on the bing carb they included in this kit.

The Bing carb on the 038 unlike the Walbros and Zamas on other Stihl saws it a real jewel.
The fuel and air passages are not molded into the body , but are grooves which are easily accessible by removing the cover plate inside the metering chamber.
This plate is held down by 2 screws.

The major carb kit # 1119 007 1066
and a Valve jet # 1119 121 5402 should enable you to do a complete rebuild job. These numbers could be old. check them.


----------



## a. palmer jr. (Mar 22, 2017)

I bought a Chinese Bing clone for mine, never took it apart, just adjusted it after I put it on the saw and no problems. Way better than the old Tillotson that was on it. Of course the Tilly needed rebuilt..


----------



## Bedford T (Mar 22, 2017)

I understand the square screw now. It sits behind the handle bar and its the best way to insert or remove the screw is with a 8mm box end. Mine would not start. carb seems to be fine, I tested the spark and nada. I will order two coils. I also ordered a 20 in bar. the saw tips with a 24" and that makes me nervous on a new saw. The shroud balking was I did not have the two top av screws all the way in and it interfered with the hole position, so simply screwing them in all the way solved that issue and then the decomp needed just a little bit taken off the shroud hole to free it. So its perfect and awaiting a new coil. I will do a comparison between it and the 440. The 440 is no harder to start than the 029 but this 038 is a different animal more like the 660, so if you are choosing a saw and you are older keep that in mind.

You might want to order one of these, the elasto start handle. The 3.5mm rope is right for this size range. It pulls hard enough to go up to 4.2mm size if the rotor will accomdate it and I don't have that info
http://www.huztl.net/Stihl-MS440-04...ith-3-5mm-Rope-OEM-1113-195-8200-p288296.html


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## Bedford T (Mar 22, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I got some larger spikes for it.



On the pair of spikes I got from Huztl this is the outside spike ( http://www.huztl.net/h-product-detail.html?goods_id=228971) I forgot to mention that the clutch cover will require some tweaking to the cover to allow the bottom portion of the spike to fit the cover. Material removal amount is small. I will take a photo of it later.

Inner spike 
http://www.huztl.net/h-product-detail.html?goods_id=228973


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Mine got held up in the snow storm. It arrived well packed. I look forward to messing with it tomorrow again.
> 
> With these the pulse comes from a hole in the wall. You gotta line the manifold up with the notch on the outside so it does not cover the hole on the inside. When I did my tests I could not figure out how to test the pulse with that setup. Just seems like an easy problem if everything does not line up. I feel mine did line up. Just the way they were designed then. My caps did not leak. After the pressure test I knew the fuel tank was tight. But the oil cap holding was nice too.
> 
> The shrouds holes did not seem to line up and it was evident around the decompression valve. I will have to drill it before it has enough room to pop. It popped every pull, of course shroud was off.


If your comp release is poping without the engine firing it is malfunctioning, aftermarket decomp is a known problem both with the previous problem as well as the button detaching. Best to go with OEM decomp.


----------



## a. palmer jr. (Mar 22, 2017)

I had a little trouble when I first got my 038 but it was OEM..my trouble was with the choke/air filter sticking. I bought a sackful of those decomps from China and haven't had any bad ones yet. I have one in my 036AV and one on my 026AV. My 038 doesn't have a de-comp. When/if they go bad I'll buy the OEM..


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I had a little trouble when I first got my 038 but it was OEM..my trouble was with the choke/air filter sticking. I bought a sackful of those decomps from China and haven't had any bad ones yet. I have one in my 036AV and one on my 026AV. My 038 doesn't have a de-comp. When/if they go bad I'll buy the OEM..


026 and 036 don't need a decomp to begin with, plug em and run em.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 22, 2017)

grizz55chev said:


> 026 and 036 don't need a decomp to begin with, plug em and run em.


 Probably right. The saws had one to start with so I just put a new one in when I rebuilt them. My 038 plastic has a big hole where the de-comp could have been but the cylinder wasn't drilled for one..


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## Bedford T (Mar 22, 2017)

I had a left over decomp that is oem quailty. I took the one that came with this one and used it on my 660. It fell apart when I was milling those few boards I did. I used the backup in this one. I tell ya removing the shroud on this puppy is a pita. You will want a top of the line valve to keep from removing it.


----------



## Adam08ski (Mar 22, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I had a left over decomp that is oem quailty. I took the one that came with this one and used it on my 660. It fell apart when I was milling those few boards I did. I used the backup in this one. I tell ya removing the shroud on this puppy is a pita. You will want a top of the line valve to keep from removing it.



Are you on about the top cover when you mention shroud? How is it a pain in the ass? My 52mm on my OEM saw is plugged/no hole ie. OEM 52mm magnum 038. It does not need a decomp and it has no base gasket too. I would just plug the cylinder. I have both top cover and air filter farmertec parts. They both go on and off sweet as a nut.


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## Bedford T (Mar 22, 2017)

I put the screw in the cylinder and to install or remove it's a pain. It's behind the handle. I put a photo up. The screw holds that side of the cover in place because there are no screws holding the shroud on on the clutch side on the base of the cover like on the starter side.


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I put the screw in the cylinder and to install or remove it's a pain. It's behind the handle. I put a photo up. The screw holds that side of the cover in place because there are no screws holding the shroud on on the clutch side on the base of the cover like on the starter side.


The motor is rubber mounted, simply push on the tank and remove the screw with a flat screwdriver, easy peasy.


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## Adam08ski (Mar 22, 2017)

grizz55chev said:


> The motor is rubber mounted, simply push on the tank and remove the screw with a flat screwdriver, easy peasy.


Oh but you may scratch the paint off the shiny new handle...


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## TreeJoe (Mar 22, 2017)

wrong screw. op is talking about the shroud screw on the cylinder. its behind the handle. not a motor mount. its in the photo


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2017)

TreeJoe said:


> wrong screw. op is talking about the shroud screw on the cylinder. its behind the handle.


See post # 204


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## TreeJoe (Mar 22, 2017)

The op posted the screw he was talking about several times and has a photo. See #203

Its a nice looking saw for the copies. I can still swing an axe pretty good. I try to use it everyday. 

this is getting old


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## grizz55chev (Mar 22, 2017)

I stand by my post, there is enough play in the rubber mounts to move the handle out of the way. At the very least I would remove the handle with my power screw driver then remove the shroud, takes all of 30 seconds. If the shroud gives you problems then I question your ability to do any major component replacement on this saw.


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## rocketnorton (Mar 22, 2017)

8mm wrench


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 22, 2017)

I agree with Bedford T that the square screw (bolt) could have been put in a better place instead of behind the handle. If the saw had been designed with the screw even 1/2" forward from where it is it would be easier to take out. The 028 is the same way..but they are what they are and you can see places in many saws that could have been designed better, for instance the plastic clamps on the intake boot on the Husqvarna saws when a simple metal hose clamp would have worked better..


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## blsnelling (Mar 23, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> the saw tips with a 24" and that makes me nervous on a new saw.


I don't understand. Can you explain why?


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## Adam08ski (Mar 23, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> I don't understand. Can you explain why?


could scratch it??


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 23, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> I don't understand. Can you explain why?


 I guess he means it's front heavy but don't know what being a new saw would matter..


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## Bedford T (Mar 23, 2017)

Front heavy. New kit saw controls are stiff. I start on ground.


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## blsnelling (Mar 23, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> Front heavy. New kit saw controls are stiff. I start on ground.


Perhaps you do this already, but try putting your foot in the rear handle.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 23, 2017)

blsnelling said:


> Perhaps you do this already, but try putting your foot in the rear handle.


 That's how I do it but hard to do sometimes with boots on..


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## Adam08ski (Mar 23, 2017)

I have never struggled to start my 038 mag, not even with new caber rings etc. I just put the rear handle between my legs whilst standing up right and give it a good pull. Just have to brace yourself for a snap back on occasion.


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## TreeJoe (Mar 25, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> That's how I do it but hard to do sometimes with boots on..



I am lucky to get the edge of my toe in the handle because I got big feet 13eeee and bigger steel toed boots. It slips sometimes. After 50 I quit throwing the saw around. A hard starting saw was an old homelite 700 bow saw that my dad had, I hated it. I was 17 before I was allowed to touch it. Maybe I was just to skinny to crank it. He ran over it with the truck.


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## s sidewall (Mar 25, 2017)

He done that on purpose, he got tired of pulling it also.

Steve


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 25, 2017)

Some of the old saws that used to be hard to start when I was younger turned out to be just out of tune. I've had the old McCullochs like the 1-53 that I thought was so hard to start so I bought another just a couple of years ago, tuned it up, already had good compression, and the thing started as easy as any saw I've had..


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## tbohn (Mar 29, 2017)

tbohn said:


> Still no joy. The shipments seem to be taking a long time from China lately.


Finally received the correct wrist pin bearing for 380. Ordered Mar 4th from Huztl ebay. Still have not received replacement directly from Huztl for the kit.


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## s sidewall (Mar 29, 2017)

Talking about a slow boat from China, that's slow turn around.

Steve


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## tbohn (Mar 30, 2017)

tbohn said:


> Finally received the correct wrist pin bearing for 380. Ordered Mar 4th from Huztl ebay. Still have not received replacement directly from Huztl for the kit.


Started up the 380 kit today. It runs great. It is much smoother than my 440 kit. The choke does not seem to restrict the flow enough and it takes over ten pulls to start cold. It starts on one pull when warm.


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## Bedford T (Mar 30, 2017)

I felt the air filter was going to be a problem. Wonder if a oem throttle bar and an air filter would improve it's starting faster


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## Bedford T (Mar 30, 2017)

I think I will start with throttle bar, I don't have an oem filter to compare with but it seems to open and close fully. What do you think it is?


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 30, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I think I will start with throttle bar, I don't have an oem filter to compare with but it seems to open and close fully. What do you think it is?


 My OEM 038 was hard to start when I got it and it turned out to be the filter choke sticking. Turned out all I had to do was loosen the mounting screws on the filter so it didn't distort the filter. These don't seem to be braced very well and if you go any more than snug it messes up the choke. Mine now starts in about 3-4 pulls when cold. I probably should use a bit of Silicone on it though..Come to think of it, it might have an aftermarket filter but not sure.


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## Bedford T (Mar 30, 2017)

Now I remember you telling us that earlier. I will remember that now. Getting old


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 30, 2017)

It's worth a try. I think that's what a lot of the 038s were difficult to start.


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## Bedford T (Mar 30, 2017)

A.palmer did you use nuts underneath the filter? Mine of course is sitting but I put nuts to secure the carb and then put the filter on and tightened it and checked the throttle tab was hitting the arm on the filter shutter and put the cover on.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 31, 2017)

I'm pretty sure the carb has nuts that hold it on then the air filter is screwed on with the aluminum nuts and the cover is screwed into one of the aluminum slotted nuts on the filter. I had to do a little finagling to get the aftermarket air filter cover to fit right onto the slotted nut, I had to take the spring out of the cover knob or it wouldn't screw in. I've had the same trouble with my 036 aftermarket cover.


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## tbohn (Mar 31, 2017)

I had issues with the filter cover fitting as well.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 31, 2017)

Mine fits, it's just the thing that tightens it up wouldn't engage. I ended up making mine a one piece thing, clamped the aluminum nut onto the engaging part so it just unscrews from the air filter. Thought about using JB Weld but figured it might break after a few times of taking it off. I would have used the OEM locks but they were missing when I got the saw.


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## tbohn (Mar 31, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Mine fits, it's just the thing that tightens it up wouldn't engage. I ended up making mine a one piece thing, clamped the aluminum nut onto the engaging part so it just unscrews from the air filter. Thought about using JB Weld but figured it might break after a few times of taking it off. I would have used the OEM locks but they were missing when I got the saw.


The issue I had was actually in the aluminum nut that is in the filter. It has a pin that the fastener on the filter cover locks onto. The pin is not centered in the hole in the aluminum nut so the fastener on the filter cover was blocked by the pin. I ground down the cover fastener so it could engage the pin and it works now.

I think the choke is not effective because it does not seat well into the filter housing and thus does not restrict air flow enough.


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## a. palmer jr. (Mar 31, 2017)

I've had two or three saws lately with problems like that and can't remember which one but the pin across the aluminum nut was one of my problems also. I think that's the reason I had to take the washers and spring out of the knob assembly for the 038, it just wouldn't reach in far enough to engage the pin. I looked to see if I had another nut with the pin placed a little farther out but didn't have one. I guess I could have re-drilled the nut and changed the pin location but I took the easy way out..


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## tbohn (Mar 31, 2017)

I just started my Huztl 380 cold. Over 50 pulls to start. The saw also doesn't kill when I choke it. I don't think the choke plug is sealing correctly. The saw idles great and starts on first pull when warm. I'm pretty sure it is a control rod issue and not the filter itself.
I've included a photo of the other 038s I have gathered over the years.


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## Bedford T (Mar 31, 2017)

You are no stranger to the 038 for sure. One rod coming up

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## tbohn (Mar 31, 2017)

I adjusted the flat spring on the control switch to hold the lever more in the choke position. This seems to give more travel to the choke plate lever on the filter.

I also noticed a difference in the right cover fastener location on the oem 038 vs. Huztl ms380. The oem is higher and mounted on the rear of the cylinder They are not interchangeable. Huztl sent me a replacement cover for the kit and it did not fit.


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## Bedford T (Mar 31, 2017)

On the Huztl the bolt is right behind the handle. Notice the OEM handle slopes more forward and that appears to uncover the bolt. Interesting.

My parts should be here next week and I am going back over mine. The spring is good information too.


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## tbohn (Apr 1, 2017)

I checked the compression on my Huztl 380. It is about 175 psi without a base gasket. The squish is only 15 mils at the edge but it's over 38 mils in about 3/16 inch. 
The 660 cylinders that I have seen have a decent squish machined on the top of the cylinder. The 440 and 380 cylinders i have are very uneven from outer to inner and from side to side.


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## Bedford T (Apr 2, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> On the Huztl the bolt is right behind the handle. Notice the OEM handle slopes more forward and that appears to uncover the bolt. Interesting. My parts should be here next week and I am going back over mine. The spring is good information too.



so after looking at the photo you provided of the two saws tbohn and considered why there was a difference? AM? the answer appears to be no. technical bulletin 52.2003
ti_52_2003_01_01_01.fm shows a photo of the ms380 and farmertec has the handle, cover dead on right, screw is hidden. handle slope changed


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## tbohn (Apr 2, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> so after looking at the photo you provided of the two saws tbohn and considered why there was a difference? AM? the answer appears to be no. technical bulletin 52.2003
> ti_52_2003_01_01_01.fm shows a photo of the ms380 and farmertec has the handle, cover dead on right, screw is hidden. handle slope changed


I guessing the difference is the 038 top cover mounting bolt is located more rearward on the cylinder and higher up than the ms380.


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## Bedford T (Apr 2, 2017)

Thanks for that photo it was helpful to me.


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## a. palmer jr. (Apr 2, 2017)

I think it was mentioned but that's probably why the bolt head is square, so you can use a wrench to tighten it. Believe me, they do need tightened occasionally.


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## tbohn (Apr 3, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> I think it was mentioned but that's probably why the bolt head is square, so you can use a wrench to tighten it. Believe me, they do need tightened occasionally.


On the oem 038s, the top cover is slotted to slip over bolt and rubber grommet. The Huztl 380 top covers are not slotted. My kit included a M4 X20(?) bolt and rubber grommet for the right cover fastener.


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## Bedford T (Apr 3, 2017)

I got the same screw and used the rubber grommet on a square head


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## a. palmer jr. (Apr 3, 2017)

tbohn said:


> On the oem 038s, the top cover is slotted to slip over bolt and rubber grommet. The Huztl 380 top covers are not slotted. My kit included a M4 X20(?) bolt and rubber grommet for the right cover fastener.


 Yeah, just going by what mine is, but mine's not a Huztl..


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## tbohn (Apr 3, 2017)

See the complete 070 powerhead on Huztl's website for $379?


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## a. palmer jr. (Apr 3, 2017)

tbohn said:


> See the complete 070 powerhead on Huztl's website for $379?


 Yeah, and it looks like they did the dirty work on those. Free shipping so that would be about a hundred more or so. I like the part about it being put together already...Still have to buy a bar and chain.


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## Bedford T (Apr 3, 2017)

Can't imagine what the cylinders look like. When it's built it's unknown.


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## Bedford T (Apr 3, 2017)

They don't have to worry about missing screws and the like. With a kit Technical support was you. On a built saw you should have some, what happens if the carb is bad and the guy has never installed one or tuned it, do you return it. Most repair shops will not touch one of these saws. With a kit you gained enough experience to service it. There will be lots of people without that experience and a saw that will not work. I wonder how this will work out for them?


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## tbohn (Apr 3, 2017)

I am curious about getting through customs with a complete saw.


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## a. palmer jr. (Apr 3, 2017)

tbohn said:


> I am curious about getting through customs with a complete saw.


 Might be all right if it doesn't say "Stihl" on it..


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## tbohn (Apr 3, 2017)

And the EPA is laying low...


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## Bedford T (Apr 3, 2017)

I will promise you this if Stihl discovers they are importing complete saws and they have an interest the customs will collect the saws. Border inspections are going up. The kits were a loophole, since when were parts illegal. I am surprised. My local dealer hammers them anytime someone shows up with a knockoff. I think he has a direct line.


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## a. palmer jr. (Apr 3, 2017)

I don't see why they can't import complete saws (less bar and chain) as long as it doesn't have the brand name or logo on it. If nothing else put the Huztl name on it.


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## Bedford T (Apr 3, 2017)

I am not against it. I said Stihl is. I talked to several importers and they told me Stihl has s team of people who's job is to make them uncomfortable. Otherwise Alibaba would be covered up with knock offs. That's why I said I was surprised.


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## s sidewall (Apr 3, 2017)

That Echo cs420es looks like my cs400 but mine is American specs not European specs, plus I don't think they build the 420 any more. 

Steve


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## tbohn (Apr 4, 2017)

I found place where I could buy like new echo cs 400 for $150 in the box. Needless to say I now have a lifetime supply.


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## Bedford T (Apr 4, 2017)

How much is shipping I will take one for that


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## tbohn (Apr 4, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> How much is shipping I will take one for that


You really think they have any left at that price?


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## s sidewall (Apr 4, 2017)

That's cheap, more than I paid 5 years ago.

Steve


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## Bedford T (Apr 26, 2017)

My journey on the 038 is coming to a close. I ordered another coil after i got no spark and then stuff happened and I got the new one and it still had no fire. So i found a lightly used oem coil and bought it and it still no fire. then stuff happened and just now get around to looking more closely at it and checked the continuity of the wiring and it looked good. So I ordered a control arm and am still waiting to hear from the dealer. today I removed the spring and the coil wire was not tight in the spring so I fixed that and the spring was not tight on the control arm like it was but by holding it it fires, so I don't have it on the arm correctly. So not a thing wrong with those Huztl coils. Funny how one small obscure detail can throw a money wrench in things so i set it aside and i am going to eyeball the dealer about a couple of things. no reason to spend time adjusting it until i get the oem control arm that i have already paid for. I am really looking forward to running this one. I am going to replace the oem coil with the original one that came with the saw and i will have a oem coil that can be used to troubleshoot at least 3 different saws in the future. the longer you do this the more assets you have to help yourself maintain them.


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## tpence2177 (Apr 27, 2017)

Anyone still putting one together and happen to mind getting a few measurements on the clutch drum? Trying to find an alternative to buying echo for my cs-590. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Adam08ski (Apr 27, 2017)

tpence2177 said:


> Anyone still putting one together and happen to mind getting a few measurements on the clutch drum? Trying to find an alternative to buying echo for my cs-590.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I can give you OEM measurement's tonight if you want off my 038 mag


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## tpence2177 (Apr 27, 2017)

Adam08ski said:


> I can give you OEM measurement's tonight if you want off my 038 mag



Doesn't have to be anytime soon just next time you are cleaning it or at your convenience. I still have plenty of life left on my spur sprocket and looking for a cheap alternative to going rim sprocket. Thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Adam08ski (Apr 27, 2017)

tpence2177 said:


> Doesn't have to be anytime soon just next time you are cleaning it or at your convenience. I still have plenty of life left on my spur sprocket and looking for a cheap alternative to going rim sprocket. Thank you!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Yep, If I forget, give this post a bump


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## Bedford T (Apr 27, 2017)

72.25mm across inside
17.48mm depth inside
16mm shaft


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## tpence2177 (Apr 27, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> 72.25mm across inside
> 17.48mm depth inside
> 16mm shaft



Thanks! Gonna measure mine when I get home. If it's close I may give it a shot 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Bedford T (Apr 27, 2017)

These use the double needle bearing.


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## tpence2177 (Apr 27, 2017)

Double needle bearing?
Edit nevermind just saw it. Haven't gotten mine apart yet to see what mine looks like. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Bedford T (Apr 27, 2017)

The wide bearing, making it wider than most drums.


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## Bedford T (Apr 27, 2017)

https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=2318317...26rvr_id%3D1207521474616&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps


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## Bedford T (Apr 27, 2017)

The cog is wider than most I guess solely because it drives the oil pump


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## tpence2177 (Apr 27, 2017)

Oh ok gotcha. Thanks! Not thinking this one will work lol. 


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## Bedford T (Apr 27, 2017)

I understand your quest. Just trying to help you see if it would work for you.


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## tpence2177 (Apr 27, 2017)

Bedford T said:


> I understand your quest. Just trying to help you see if it would work for you.



I really appreciate it! I'm eye balling the 361/440/040 clutch drum and rim sprocket next!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Bedford T (May 5, 2017)

I got the critter running. I could not get it running not once until this morning and there was no reason for it. i would get no spark, so i ordered a coil, I checked everything and ordered another coil, checked everything and ordered a oem coil, still would not crank. That was driving me mad. in the mean time i kept in mind the shutter in the filter and figured out how to keep everything in line so when i did get spark it would go. 

This morning after fiddling and fiddling I got it to fire. It was the switch wire and it tested fine each and every time and when I would button everything up or move the saw it would not work. I had a spare and replaced the wire and bam it fired right up and ran. Now it will not cut off lol. small thing. i will fix it. i went on to other things and will come back to that. It runs really smooth, smoother than any of my saws. I am going to do some cutting videos with it in a couple days.


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## rocketnorton (May 5, 2017)

try oe spring contact in place of china one. sorry, not knowing proper name of part. might wanna try oe wire, too. never seen the [switch] ends stihl uses anywhere else.
I have those parts if u cant find them.


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## andrethegiant70 (May 5, 2017)

Looks good, nice loping idle. Well done.


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## Bedford T (Jun 13, 2017)

these kits are on sale on www.huztl.net for a few days
30% off


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## 94SRUNNER (Jun 13, 2017)

How much is shipping on these kits? 


Bedford T said:


> these kits are on sale on www.huztl.net for a few days
> 30% off


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## tbohn (Jun 13, 2017)

94SRUNNER said:


> How much is shipping on these kits?


$85 to MN.


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## dswensen (Jun 27, 2017)

Just finished another Huztl MS380 build last night. She fired on the third pull and runs well after some tuning. After shutting her down, I noticed (for the first time) that there appeared to be some extra play in the piston/con rod assembly. Remembering and reading back a bit in this thread, I note I am not the only one - and perhaps the small-end (wrist pin) bearing is not quite right. It seems that there is a degree or two of flywheel rotation at the top/bottom of the piston stroke without any corresponding movement of the piston itself. Seems to be a bit more than the normal "top-dead-center" I'm used to.

The bearing looked fine when I inserted it into the upper con rod, but I will admit to not checking it against the wrist pin before installing the piston.

Wondering what y'all think. Since it ran, and ran well, is this just my imagination working up a problem that doesn't exist? Or do I have a time bomb waiting to "grenade"? Anybody else running one of these saws with the same condition?

I do realize that it is not that hard to pull the jug and look, but I thought I'd ask before I made it a project. I don't know about you, but these things never seem to go back together as tightly on re-assembly as they do when assembling for the first time. Plus, with my luck, I'll break a ring the second time .....


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## dswensen (Jun 28, 2017)

dswensen said:


> Just finished another Huztl MS380 build last night. She fired on the third pull and runs well after some tuning. After shutting her down, I noticed (for the first time) that there appeared to be some extra play in the piston/con rod assembly. Remembering and reading back a bit in this thread, I note I am not the only one - and perhaps the small-end (wrist pin) bearing is not quite right. It seems that there is a degree or two of flywheel rotation at the top/bottom of the piston stroke without any corresponding movement of the piston itself. Seems to be a bit more than the normal "top-dead-center" I'm used to.
> 
> The bearing looked fine when I inserted it into the upper con rod, but I will admit to not checking it against the wrist pin before installing the piston.
> 
> ...




Bump


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## tbohn (Jun 28, 2017)

dswensen said:


> Bump


I built a 380 and noticed a lot of slack at top and bottom of the stroke. I took apart a found they sent the wrong wrist bearing (it was for a ms440). I replaced it. I'm sure it would not have lasted long with the wrong bearing. It was obvious when I took the jug off. Not sure how I missed it during assembly.

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## dswensen (Jun 28, 2017)

tbohn said:


> I built a 380 and noticed a lot of slack at top and bottom of the stroke. I took apart a found they sent the wrong wrist bearing (it was for a ms440). I replaced it. I'm sure it would not have lasted long with the wrong bearing. It was obvious when I took the jug off. Not sure how I missed it during assembly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk



Thank you. By "a lot of slack", do you mean more than a few degrees of flywheel rotation? When you spun the engine by hand, could you "feel" the freeplay?


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## tbohn (Jun 28, 2017)

dswensen said:


> Thank you. By "a lot of slack", do you mean more than a few degrees of flywheel rotation? When you spun the engine by hand, could you "feel" the freeplay?


It was a couple of degrees of slack. I could feel it by hand.

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## Bedford T (Jul 29, 2017)

the 070 kit is ready

http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repai...er-Muffler-Carburetor-Handle-Bar-p584588.html


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## Walter Glover (Dec 13, 2017)

tbohn said:


> It was a couple of degrees of slack. I could feel it by hand.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


Get it sorted out?
Doubt you can tell slack in a pin and bearing unless you have it apart


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## tbohn (Dec 13, 2017)

Walter Glover said:


> Get it sorted out?
> Doubt you can tell slack in a pin and bearing unless you have it apart


When you have a ms440 wrist pin bearing in a ms380 you can tell. I installed the correct bearing and all is good.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## Walter Glover (Dec 13, 2017)

Tbohn, would you recommend the 380 kit? Pondering the 360 and 380 kits
Good you got it sorted!


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 13, 2017)

If I remember right the 044 had two different wrist pin diameters, 8 and 10mm.


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## tbohn (Dec 13, 2017)

Walter Glover said:


> Tbohn, would you recommend the 380 kit? Pondering the 360 and 380 kits
> Good you got it sorted!


I have not built the ms360 or ms361 kits. I've built at least one of everything else. I think the ms660 kit is the best deal and the quality is good. I think the ms380 kits are the best quality and and most heavy duty.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## tbohn (Dec 13, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> If I remember right the 044 had two different wrist pin diameters, 8 and 10mm.


I think the had a 10mm and 12mm. The 12mm fits on the ms380 wrist pin but it's OD is too small.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## tbohn (Dec 13, 2017)

tbohn said:


> I think the had a 10mm and 12mm. The 12mm fits on the ms380 wrist pin but it's OD is too small.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Or maybe the ID is too large...I can't remember.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 13, 2017)

Yep, been awhile since I had an 044 apart, just remember there were 2 sizes.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 13, 2017)

Cross pollination of the parts bins have been an on going problem.

Except for a few minor bits, this 380 went together fine.


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 14, 2017)

The above is my fifth ‘kit’ I’ve assembled. I must say that the quality of the crankcase assembly and top end has shown a vast improvement.

The cylinder in my first 361 had all manner of turkey turds and flash in the ports and transfers. [emoji37]


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 14, 2017)

Did you use any OEM parts to finish the 380?


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## 67L36Driver (Dec 14, 2017)

a. palmer jr. said:


> Did you use any OEM parts to finish the 380?



Yes, chain catcher screw, top cover shoulder screw (right side), flanged flywheel nut, air filter nut (that the twist lock engages), impulse line and fuel cap.

Crossing my fingers on the rest of the rubber goods.[emoji849]


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## ratman36 (Jan 26, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> I found a helpful tool. If you have never seen or used press fluid it was my first encounter and I was impressed and since it is better and about the same price is everything else I though I would show it to you. Made that AV go right in. Putting in oil hoses through the crankcase can be aggrevating and not with this.



Hot water soak with Dawn soap and water they drop right in and cheap.


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## TheManOfStihl (Jan 28, 2018)

I cheated this time... instead of buying the kit, I sourced an already built MS381 from a FarmerTec distributor. Didn't build it myself, but wanted to give it a shot. And hey, if it blows up, I'll be back on here with a teardown and failure analysis. For now, I've got 4 tanks of fuel through it, without too many complaints.

HOWEVER, there are some complaints. Right out of the box the carb was not adjusted well at all. Took care of that and put her in a log. Seems like the clutch slips, anything more than the weight of the saw stops the chain. I am chalking this up to the rings not being seated yet, as it must not be producing full power. Others have said this is an 038 Mag basically, which would keep right up with an 044. Mine does not. The 044 I used to use would cut circles around this thing. I am again assuming it's just not broken in yet and I'm trying to be patient with it.

No matter what I do, the air filter will not seal. Every time I refuel, I remove the air filter and clean the saw dust out of the carb throat. I don't like that, but have read on here that the OEM filter does not fit with the AM air cleaner housing. I sent a message to the seller about this, and they sent me a new air filter and a piston and cylinder kit, since I told them this would murder the engine.

They also fitted the saw with a 24" bar and chain when it was sent to me. Right away it was an issue. Sinks into a cut then stops biting, chain spins but doesn't cut. I have to rock the saw to get a bite again. I told them about it and they sent me a Stihl 20" bar and chain instead of their no name 24". So far so good with the Stihl setup. I guess they made it right, can't complain too much.

Otherwise, this is an easy starting saw, runs well now, and pulls the 20" chain as long as I don't get too aggressive. I installed oversized felling dogs but I can't really use them without stopping the chain. If it doesn't get better in a few more tanks of fuel, I may throw a clutch and drum replacement on it.


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## Bedford T (Jan 28, 2018)

TheManOfStihl said:


> I cheated this time... instead of buying the kit, I sourced an already built MS381 from a FarmerTec distributor. Didn't build it myself, but wanted to give it a shot. And hey, if it blows up, I'll be back on here with a teardown and failure analysis. For now, I've got 4 tanks of fuel through it, without too many complaints.
> 
> HOWEVER, there are some complaints. Right out of the box the carb was not adjusted well at all. Took care of that and put her in a log. Seems like the clutch slips, anything more than the weight of the saw stops the chain. I am chalking this up to the rings not being seated yet, as it must not be producing full power. Others have said this is an 038 Mag basically, which would keep right up with an 044. Mine does not. The 044 I used to use would cut circles around this thing. I am again assuming it's just not broken in yet and I'm trying to be patient with it.
> 
> ...


FarmerTec does not make a 381. There are lots of Chinese companies that make outdoor power equipment. The others seem to copy the 381 and 070. If it we're a farmertec 380 it would have more power as it should than a 440. 50 vs 52. Of course they have a 52 jug you can upgrade the 440 to. The 380 parts are high quailty, no slipping clutches. The clutch and the brake band were very heavy duty. Even the handle bar. I have seen the "381" and know what you are seeing. You still should have some fun with it. But they share the same fuel handle. I think only one company had the mold and it came out a few millimeters off. So they have a slightly off size air filter and cover. The choke is in that filter and will cause you many headaches. The real ones did too, except they were the right size. I like the choke on the carb, it's too important


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## TheManOfStihl (Jan 28, 2018)

Ah! So I was misinformed from the Chinese, they told me this was a FarmerTec saw. I guess it's to be expected out of them to mislead me. Sigh. Thank you for the info, I am still learning about these Chinese companies. I have used many of their parts on my saws and for friend's saws, but this is my first assembled unit I have bought from them.

I have read about others having trouble with the choke, I have not had trouble yet, but yes I expect it in the future. I agree the choke in the carb is the best setup. 

Just cut two more tanks of fuel with it, still getting saw dust in the carb. Really don't like that but otherwise it didn't do too bad today.


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## s sidewall (Jan 28, 2018)

Can you put some grease on the filter where it goes on the carb to help catch the saw dust?

Steve


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## TheManOfStihl (Jan 28, 2018)

That's a good idea. I hadn't thought of that. I was going to try to find a skinny oring that I could stick to the filter so it sealed, but I like your idea better. Thank you!


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## s sidewall (Jan 28, 2018)

A fellow as member said he had to do that on his Poulan 5020av, was having the same problem as you and he said it fixed his problem. 

Steve


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## a. palmer jr. (Jan 28, 2018)

As weak clutch springs cause a saw to not idle well maybe too strong clutch springs might make it slip...


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## TheManOfStihl (Feb 4, 2018)

Update, I ran a few more tanks of fuel through this MS381 and it's waking up. I really noticed it the last tankful, I can use the felling dogs now and the chain doesn't stop nearly as easy as it did before. I think the rings are seating now and she's making more power, it's more of what I expected now. And the clutch doesn't seem to slip nearly as much either. I suppose maybe they had an anti corrosion coating on the clutch and drum that might have worn off?

Either way, pretty pleased with this MS381 knock off, I must say.


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## Walter Glover (Feb 5, 2018)

s sidewall said:


> Can you put some grease on the filter where it goes on the carb to help catch the saw dust?
> 
> Steve


We did that with dirt bikes to get a good seal. Used waterproof wheel bearing grease. It worked the best.


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## Bedford T (Feb 5, 2018)

Do you guys using grease find that it attracts and hold the grit and saw dust eventually contaminating the air filter clogging it up?

Looks like grease would become a problem long term on a air filter. Just thowing that out there. On a 070 090 the filter is thin like cardboard so could be cleaned thoroughly. I guess you do what you must gotta stop it somehow. I am going to take a hard look at mine.


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## s sidewall (Feb 5, 2018)

You put the grease on where the filter pushes up to the carb, not on the filter media itself, just want to seal off any cracks between both.

Steve


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## Bedford T (Feb 5, 2018)

s sidewall said:


> You put the grease on where the filter pushes up to the carb, not on the filter media itself, just want to seal off any cracks between both.
> 
> Steve


I understood. But grease creeps. Best idea out there still


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## TheManOfStihl (Feb 5, 2018)

If i remember correctly, the air filter has a channel made into it around the opening for the carb. I wonder if I could cut an O-ring and silicone in into that groove in the air filter? That would (should) make a good seal on the carb flange I would think. I might try that. If not I like the grease idea. Certainly better than ingesting sawdust all day.


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## Bedford T (Feb 5, 2018)

I have a collection. Notice the different sizes. There is a rim but it won't hold an oring


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## s sidewall (Feb 5, 2018)

They should have made a molded rubber seal to seal, plastic don't seal.

Steve


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## TheManOfStihl (Feb 5, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> I have a collection. Notice the different sizes. There is a rim but it won't hold an oring



You're right. I just pulled my filter and was coming back to report that there is not a groove like I thought I saw before. I have the same filter as the top one in your pic. Just a flat face, no groove. I could have sworn there was a groove. Oh well. Grease is probably my ticket, although there was very little dust actually in the carb throat this time. Somehow it sealed last time I put it on. 

Thanks for the images though, I appreciate the info!


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## s sidewall (Feb 5, 2018)

Have you thought about an old inner tube, cut and make a gasket to fit over the plastic part, would be an easy fix.

Steve


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## s sidewall (Feb 5, 2018)

Bicycle type would work the best being thinner. 

Steve


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## TheManOfStihl (Feb 5, 2018)

That's another idea. that would be more feasible than grease and should be reusable.


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## Bedford T (Feb 5, 2018)

Another consideration, if you are producing powder you might want to switch to flock like the other photo. The mesh on the lighter filter can pass some powder.


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## Woody Longbranch (Feb 18, 2018)

I'm considering the kit Hutzl offers 038/380/381. Did the clone the farmertec distributor provided you come from Hutzl. If Farmertec didn't supply it who did? How's it running now? Does the displacement correspond to the 381?
It's supposedly got a little bit more displacement than the 440 series. Is it 72cc as far as you know 
Thank you.
David


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## Bedford T (Feb 18, 2018)

I doubt it. You can put the bigger jug on the 440 kit and come out with 72cc if that is what you wanted.


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## Bedford T (Feb 18, 2018)

Should you consider that. Ask them before you order and make sure the engine is not assembled in the kit.


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## Bedford T (May 15, 2018)

This kit was a bust for me. I kept finding things wrong. I kept being defeated. I kept coming back to it. The last big reveal was when I discovered the flash in the impulse channel while putting on the 6th carb, an oem that time. I thought I had hit pay dirt. Troubleshooting and not getting where I needed to be especially after that discover was devastating. A subscriber to my youtube channel brought it up and I took another look. This time I blame the kit and I have figured out the, what, when and why. Its been over a year and the preciseness of the work I did is comprehensive. The cylinder was so out of whack it caused the main problem and then that opens the door to the other. Its very interesting. I have hope that I can overcome the secondary problem(s). I will discuss those in the last video of the series. Its a very sturdy saw. Much heftier than the 440 or the 660, those are runners. I am unsure if huztl still has their storage trailer still packed to the ceiling with unsold kits ready to ship and packed like mine or if they unpacked the kits and replaced and fixed the problems. My gut tells me they did not lift a finger. As it unfolds if someone sees a solution, when that time comes, a long term solution, speak up please.


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## Woody Longbranch (May 15, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> This kit was a bust for me. I kept finding things wrong. I kept being defeated. I kept coming back to it. The last big reveal was when I discovered the flash in the impulse channel while putting on the 6th carb, an oem that time. I thought I had hit pay dirt. Troubleshooting and not getting where I needed to be especially after that discover was devastating. A subscriber to my youtube channel brought it up and I took another look. This time I blame the kit and I have figured out the, what, when and why. Its been over a year and the preciseness of the work I did is comprehensive. The cylinder was so out of whack it caused the main problem and then that opens the door to the other. Its very interesting. I have hope that I can overcome the secondary problem(s). I will discuss those in the last video of the series. Its a very sturdy saw. Much heftier than the 440 or the 660, those are runners. I am unsure if huztl still has their storage trailer still packed to the ceiling with unsold kits ready to ship and packed like mine or if they unpacked the kits and replaced and fixed the problems. My gut tells me they did not lift a finger. As it unfolds if someone sees a solution, when that time comes, a long term solution, speak up please.


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## Woody Longbranch (May 15, 2018)

got the notice that the thread was active a thread I've been watching so I just atch the video for the first time and of course you sound very knowledgeable and very competent you mentioned a flash in the impulse I don't know what that phrase means does that mean there was a impediment a blockage in the impulse line and then you didn't mention that you fixed it did you remit out or knock a little peace out and how did you make out I don't see any additional videos with the new cylinder posted yet sounds like you really had your hands full and you did try everything what is a flash in the impulse line and how did you fix it


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## Bedford T (May 15, 2018)

Woody Longbranch said:


> got the notice that the thread was active a thread I've been watching so I just atch the video for the first time and of course you sound very knowledgeable and very competent you mentioned a flash in the impulse I don't know what that phrase means does that mean there was a impediment a blockage in the impulse line and then you didn't mention that you fixed it did you remit out or knock a little peace out and how did you make out I don't see any additional videos with the new cylinder posted yet sounds like you really had your hands full and you did try everything what is a flash in the impulse line and how did you fix it


The videos will rollout starting tonight and appear about every two to three days on a schedule about 9pm. It starts with the chainsaw disassembly and will roll on through to the final fixes.

The impulse is a little heart beat that is produced in combustion and it drives the diaphragm in the carb to pump fuel. It was an unseen untouched channel connected differently from model to model. So the aftermarket handle had some left over material in this channel that when it got damp with fuel would obstruct the flow of pressure. You normally can't see it. I caught a glimpse. I think I explained the rest.



kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


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## Bedford T (May 16, 2018)

#1 tear down


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## Walter Glover (May 16, 2018)

Bedford do you own any tools? Man you seem to be struggling on that saw


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## Bedford T (May 16, 2018)

Walter Glover said:


> Bedford do you own any tools? Man you seem to be struggling on that saw


Walt, I think your full of it. Sometimes you struggle sometimes it goes smooth. If you find it painful to watch or you are expecting some Stormy type action don't watch. I really don't know what to say. So far it looks like your bored.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


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## Walter Glover (May 16, 2018)

All good Bedford. Just hard to watch a man struggle for lack of tools


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## Bedford T (May 16, 2018)

Walter Glover said:


> All good Bedford. Just hard to watch a man struggle for lack of tools


I have tools, many special tools by Stihl. I have hammers and saws and grinders and welder. Nails screws tape lots and lots of tools. I use them when it's appropriate. That may be what is worrying you. You perceive I should be using something. I have no idea what you are referring too.I lacked no tools while I worked on this saw. I have arthritis and I see evidence of that when I edit the videos but that only slows.me down not stop me

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


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## Walter Glover (May 16, 2018)

Is the MS380 a running saw today?


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## Bedford T (May 16, 2018)

Edit, did you listen to the video, I explained the saw had problems and it's history and where I was going with it. 


kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


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## Bedford T (May 17, 2018)

tear down #2


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## Walter Glover (May 17, 2018)

Bedford i will watch the videos completely asap


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## MG porting (May 17, 2018)

Can't we all just get along!!!!


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## Bedford T (May 17, 2018)

MG porting said:


> Can't we all just get along!!!! [emoji38]


Do you know this guy? He is a total fan. I think he is pulling my leg. He worries about folks that don't have tools. I am crippled, I got tools. Hands are two important tools. Lol

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


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## Bedford T (May 17, 2018)

I would like to work this saw out so we can have a 72cc runner. Early on the 660 was this much trouble. 

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


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## MG porting (May 17, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> Do you know this guy? He is a total fan. I think he is pulling my leg. He worries about folks that don't have tools. I am crippled, I got tools. Hands are two important tools. Lol
> 
> kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


No I don't know who he is he could be just poking fun at you I wouldn't let him get under your skin. But one thing he did forget to you is if you would like to buy some tools from him. Lol.


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## Bedford T (May 17, 2018)

MG porting said:


> No I don't know who he is he could be just poking fun at you I wouldn't let him get under your skin. But one thing he did forget to you is if you would like to buy some tools from him. Lol.


Your right he could fix me up. Set me on the right path. I need that you know. Bet he has got a bigly tool box. I use buckets. No tops.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com


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## Bedford T (May 25, 2018)

Here are some bits and pieces on MS380

1. cylinder changed out saw now runs
2. someone bought a kit and is having similar problems (not cylinder related)
3. he is a logger and 5 pulls, choke off, hold throttle open and continue to pull until it starts, not acceptable.
4. His lid screw is moved from behind handle and he can use carb nuts without having a handle soaked in fuel
5. the ms380 stihl parts are not sold in the US so if the parts are not used on another saw that is used here you can not get parts.
6. the problem now lies 100% with my fuel tank handle
7. i have purchased an additional ms380 handle and a ms381 handle and i am going to compare and fit them to my saw and look for a final fix. meaning if huztl redid the handles folks buying now do nothing besides find a ms380 air filter before purchase, if you have a kit already and its a dud one of these two handles hopefully will fix it + filter.
8. then we just need a oem filter source. in one of the ms380 videos i go over the AM filter differences so you can catch up.
9. i am optimistic


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## MG porting (May 25, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> Here are some bits and pieces on MS380
> 
> 1. cylinder changed out saw now runs
> 2. someone bought a kit and is having similar problems (not cylinder related)
> ...


So there's light at the end of the tunnel after all. And that's a good thing.


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## Bedford T (May 25, 2018)

MG porting said:


> So there's light at the end of the tunnel after all. And that's a good thing.


I really have done everything that could be done. Buying several additional handles to see which one works is insane. But I am hopeful. That will be the very last money this saw ever gets of mine. Lol


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## Walter Glover (May 25, 2018)

Whydoes it need a handle Bed?


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## Walter Glover (May 29, 2018)

Watched the handle vid completely. I am confused as to how a handle would affect carb nuts? Where would fuel be coming from? Like you said that is crazy issues there. Will be watching for an update.


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## 67L36Driver (May 30, 2018)

Just a tidbit on the 380 I built.

The coil crapped out but the client sourced one online and it’s back among the living.


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## Walter Glover (May 31, 2018)

67, how was your build other than the coil? Fit and finish?
Walter


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## dswensen (May 31, 2018)

Walter Glover said:


> 67, how was your build other than the coil? Fit and finish?
> Walter



Walter, I built one several months ago (kits are reported to have gone down in quality recently, YMMV). Mine went together well and runs well, but I don't have more than a few hours on it by now.

The only challenge I remember was that the choke shutter that is integral within the air filter had a return spring on it that was too weak. The result was when the saw would rev up, the increased volume of air going into the carb would suck the choke shutter closed, causing the saw to begin to die. As the revs came down, the choke shutter return spring would return the choke shutter back to the open position, and the engine would pick up again. The engine was thusly surging and then dropping back.

I'm sure an OEM filter with a better return spring for the choke shutter would have solved the issue, but being as "thrifty" as I am, I had to see if I could modify the unit that came in the kit. I ended up removing a large portion of the BACK of the choke shutter which allowed the choke, when open, to rest just a bit further away from the closed position, thereby allowing more air to pass at full throttle - viola! - no more surging.

Again, I haven't tested this "modification" thoroughly yet, but so far, it seems to work just fine.


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## Bedford T (Jun 4, 2018)

i got the two handles. the farmertec 380 and the protools66 381. i have them marked in photo. i was correct in my assumptions so far. unfortunately it leaks at the fuel elbow on the 381 so i will have to deal with that first. the size difference is correct and will pull the side screw into view. i need to measure the carb box but from looking at it i think the box will allow the oem filter to sit with the nuts on the studs and pickup the shutter latch on the control bar correctly. my very old original handle is different from the current famertec handle. they are using the 381 style fuel hose. looking back into the model history they never used that type on the 038 or 380, used a one piece hose. and of course that's not a great way to prevent leaks is have 3 sections versus one piece. You can look down on the carb boxs in the photo and see the sections looks much different + 
length.

to sum it up, the 381 handle should solve the problem, if i have guessed right it will. then by just buying the 381 handle you will not have this bad issue on the current or older kits. and if it works buying the 381 kit will give us a good 72cc kit that works like a good copy. its just too important for the filter shutter to work correctly. it looks like they used some of this and some of that to create that 380 kit. rather than having good copies like the others...overall, 660, 440 etc.

notice handle bar angle, i think an improvement


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## Bedford T (Jun 4, 2018)

this is just for fun. can you guess which package held the farmertec handle? the protools66 handle had a much better ride and still contained no cardboard. lol


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## MG porting (Jun 4, 2018)

Bedford T said:


> i got the two handles. the farmertec 380 and the protools66 381. i have them marked in photo. i was correct in my assumptions so far. unfortunately it leaks at the fuel elbow on the 381 so i will have to deal with that first. the size difference is correct and will pull the side screw into view. i need to measure the carb box but from looking at it i think the box will allow the oem filter to sit with the nuts on the studs and pickup the shutter latch on the control bar correctly. my very old original handle is different from the current famertec handle. they are using the 381 style fuel hose. looking back into the model history they never used that type on the 038 or 380, used a one piece hose. and of course that's not a great way to prevent leaks is have 3 sections versus one piece. You can look down on the carb boxs in the photo and see the sections looks much different + View attachment 656020
> length.
> 
> to sum it up, the 381 handle should solve the problem, if i have guessed right it will. then by just buying the 381 handle you will not have this bad issue on the current or older kits. and if it works buying the 381 kit will give us a good 72cc kit that works like a good copy. its just too important for the filter shutter to work correctly. it looks like they used some of this and some of that to create that 380 kit. rather than having good copies like the others...overall, 660, 440 etc.
> ...


Definitely a difference in length. And Lol. On shipping package go figure.


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## Bedford T (Jun 5, 2018)

I reached by out to protools66 about the leak and they wasted time in helping

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http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## L34 (Jun 5, 2018)

Hi Bedford,is protool gear better than FT?
Have you used any of their other stuff?
I assume protool and FT are not linked?
Cheers,Chris.


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## Bedford T (Jun 5, 2018)

No they are not linked thank goodness. But their English is great and helpful when you are buying and very similar to FarmerTec when things go wrong

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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## L34 (Jun 5, 2018)

Thanks Bedford for the reply.
They only have eBay,not a site like huztl?
Again thanks,Chris.


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## Bedford T (Jun 5, 2018)

eBay is gonna be best with these tariffs. Prices are only slightly higher but it saves you headache and heartache


FarmerTec cheap has a big cost factor. I hate getting screwed tying to have fun.

Do you build or are you just thinking about it. If it's your first I would get either the 440, 660 . 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## L34 (Jun 5, 2018)

Just muck with saws (have 660,064/066 hybrid x2,044,038 mag,441c I have rebuilt.
Use huztl for plastics,carbs,clutch cover,etc.
Did fit a hyway P/C to the 441,seemed to have a good finish to it.
Average price for a stihl P/C kit here Down Under is $700-no way thanks.
Cheers,Chris.


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## 67L36Driver (Jun 5, 2018)

Left is Huztl/Farmertec ‘mummy’ package. I’ve received several w/no breakage.

Takes a while with a sharpe utility knife to unwrap.


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## Bedford T (Jun 5, 2018)

I guessed wrong on the leak. the hole is jagged. so I guess I will have to wait on a new handle to be sent. bummer. I get a sense I am on my own.


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## MG porting (Jun 5, 2018)

That sucks a bit.


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## Walter Glover (Jun 5, 2018)

Smooth it then seal-all? Or a tygon sleeve?
Edit:
On old homelites i have made a friction fit sleeve of teflon so standard sized tygon fuel line would fit. Sealed great. To smooth that hole use a unidrill bit as the steps guide and control the cut leaving a very nice hole. 
Noticed Huztl kits are 30% off this week! Can do a lot of fixing at that price.


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## Bedford T (Jun 6, 2018)

I reached out to them and now they are having trouble understanding. I think it may get rocky. Why is it when you buy from these people and you have trouble they talk like they care and want to help but don't actually do anything. It is so strange. There was a lot of back and forth and then they go silent without providing you with a clear path. I guess i will open a case in the morning and see if i can find one somewhere else. It takes about 10 days to resolve those. FamerTec did not leak. Shame, I was hopeful


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## Walter Glover (Jun 6, 2018)

To whom?
I am confused
Farmertec had gas on handle now you say it doesnt leak? Is protool not responding now?


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## Walter Glover (Jun 7, 2018)

Going to buy one of these while they are on sale. Report findings and hoping for a good one!


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## Bedford T (Jun 7, 2018)

Well, it was better than I thought. My request that they check the replacement caused them to actually check it and they found it leaked too. So they checked another and found it leaked too. So on it went. They refunded me. 

That caused me to buckle down...cause I need it to work...I used the 038 fuel line, a one piece and it worked perfect and does not leak, with some cleanup

I filled a sink with water and pushed it down and the vent leaks like crazy. The opening for that might be a problem. I am getting another vent and I will see if that's true.

That is the first time a Chinese company quailty checked their product. Pay attention FarmerTec

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## Walter Glover (Jun 7, 2018)

Pulled the trigger. Ms380 bought and paid for $209usd with a few extra pieces on order. Yippee!


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## Walter Glover (Jun 7, 2018)

Bedford, shouldn't the vent release tank pressure? What pressure are you seeing bubbles? IMO if a vent does not let fuel out it is good to go. So only slight positive pressure then vent excess. Any more than a psi can influence carb tuning. In theory lol


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## Bedford T (Jun 7, 2018)

ok so the vent has a collar around it and it kept me from pushing the vent into it, i broke one, had to buy a second. so i took a dremel and removed the collar and it snapped in place. it now works. i have 3 hours of work in it. i shared what i learned with them. i would have just moved on but i could not get a good answer out of other sellers.

so i have work to catch up on but over the next few days i will put the handle in service


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## Walter Glover (Jun 7, 2018)

Excellent Bedford. That is good stuff. I ordered a one piece fuel line in case the handle that comes has issues


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## Walter Glover (Jun 15, 2018)

Any updates to report Bedford?


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## Walter Glover (Jun 19, 2018)

MS380 from Huztl arrived and picked up at post just now. Approx 10days from China to Canada. Awesome
Packaging hmmmmmm


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## Walter Glover (Jun 19, 2018)

Assembled carb parts through to filter. Choke in as received condition will not function. Will need a spacer/gasket to make it work. More later

Edit: on the ms038 ipl there is a carb gasket shown. So that will be the fix
This one will mayhap need two for sure


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## Walter Glover (Jun 20, 2018)

Assembly of engine quite far along. Remaining is carb etc, chain brake and clutch.
It appears there are screws missing in this kit but all else seems very good.
Once together I will inventory missing parts and extras if such exist. May need to enlist Bedfords help there.
Beautiful castings and machine work on this MS380. Very pleased so far.


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## Walter Glover (Jun 20, 2018)

Would apreciate an ipl for ms380


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## dswensen (Jun 21, 2018)

Walter Glover said:


> Would apreciate an ipl for ms380



It's in you PM box.


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## TS73 (Jun 21, 2018)

Built the MS380 today - Great Kit and Excellent running saw. I completly agree with afleetcommand on youtube - the air filter needs changed to OEM. The kits choke spring (in the air filter) is to weak and causes the saw to choke itself at high rpms when its sucking air and run rich. Very Good Quality saw!!!


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## Walter Glover (Jun 21, 2018)

Thank you B Swenson!!


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## Walter Glover (Jun 21, 2018)

TS73, would like to know how the ignition kill wire is supposed to be installed in the switch?
A pic of yours would be much appreciated or any tips?
TIA

Edit: sorted the kill switch
Cheers


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## TS73 (Jun 21, 2018)




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## Walter Glover (Jun 21, 2018)

TS73, perfect! Thank you.
Beauty saw you have there. Running?
Any issues with your choke rod and choke lever contact?

Edit: after figuring that kill switch out it appears to me yours could slip into the switch housing deeper to the right. That would give solid support to the brass barrel on the wire.
Cheers


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## TS73 (Jun 21, 2018)

Yep the spring on the Air Filter is too weak and at Higher RPM's it flutters the choke flapper open and closed which causes the saw to run rich. So far all of my local Stihl dealers don't have an OEM filter/choke or spring to replace it (to old). So I'm trying to figure out a way to add another spring to hold the choke flapper open when not needed. After the saw is warmed up - I took the choke flapper piece out and the saw runs Great!


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## Walter Glover (Jun 21, 2018)

Hope this works for top cover screw
Intend to leave screw in cylinder and pop cover off to remove


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## dswensen (Jun 21, 2018)

TS73 said:


> Yep the spring on the Air Filter is too weak and at Higher RPM's it flutters the choke flapper open and closed which causes the saw to run rich. So far all of my local Stihl dealers don't have an OEM filter/choke or spring to replace it (to old). So I'm trying to figure out a way to add another spring to hold the choke flapper open when not needed. After the saw is warmed up - I took the choke flapper piece out and the saw runs Great!



I had the same issue. I took the choke flap out and removed material from the back side with a dremel to allow the flap to open further. That seems to work for me - but granted, I haven't run the saw a bunch yet.


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## dmb2613 (Jun 21, 2018)

I ordered a 044 kit the 19th , will see , shipping was $100. I just had to see if all fits together lol


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## Walter Glover (Jun 21, 2018)

All together now
Usedan one carb base gasket to allow choke lever to actuate the choke flapper. 
Pressure test revealed a base gasket leak. Sanded cylinder base on glass surface in a crosshai ch to clean it up
Added some gasket maker and no leaks pressure or vacuum.
Squirt or two of gas filter off she starts. Tweaked carb screws and now starts easy and runs nice. 
Mounted a 20" Toolstorm bar and chain. Might get to give it some wood tomorrow.
Will watch for the choke flutter. Mine does not do that so far.
Cheers


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## L34 (Jun 22, 2018)

This is how I fixed my 038 mag lol.


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## Walter Glover (Jun 22, 2018)

L34 said:


> This is how I fixed my 038 mag lol.


Fixed what exactly? Huztl 038?


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## Walter Glover (Jun 22, 2018)

Bedford, have you destroyed your MS380? Been a while since you got those handles. Hope you got it sorted out. 

Cheers


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## L34 (Jun 23, 2018)

Walter Glover said:


> Fixed what exactly? Huztl 038?


No, genuine 038.Shi#$y choke setup.


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## s sidewall (Jun 23, 2018)

Not to get off the subject but what is the best kit they sale that has had no problems with the parts and has held up under use. 

Steve


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## Walter Glover (Jun 26, 2018)

s sidewall said:


> Not to get off the subject but what is the best kit they sale that has had no problems with the parts and has held up under use.
> 
> Steve


In this thread it be the MS380 as the best imo. Long use? Doubt anyone has actual long run times on the kit saws.


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## s sidewall (Jun 26, 2018)

If I'm going to build one, I'm going to run it. I wouldn't want to build something that would hold up.

Steve


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## Walter Glover (Jun 26, 2018)

Steve, I suppose first pick the size you want then decide if you wish to take the leap. IMO this 72cc MS380 would be a good choice and for increased reliability replacement e main bearings of better quality. Maybe wrist pin bearing as well. BUT the kit bearings might last quite a while. I am pleased with the kit I received and see little wrong with the way it runs.


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## s sidewall (Jun 26, 2018)

Thanks for the info, now that's the kind of information I want to hear. Saw building isn't that hard, I mess with building old Poulans, last was a full rebuild on a 5200, 85cc's of reed valve grunt. Figured I might try something smaller, around 65cc's or 70.

Steve


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## rocketnorton (Jun 27, 2018)

@Czed on couple other sights. likes the "huskys" 70ish cc, and runs em some.

guess he's here, too...


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## Walter Glover (Jun 30, 2018)

Imo the MS380 is a very classy saw whereas a Husky 372 is more vanilla icecream. Boring but functional lol
That said if i can seing it a Huztl 372 be finding a home at my shop haha


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## Bedford T (Dec 16, 2018)

There is a bunch of kits not running. They certainly have had plenty of time to correct what ever it is. They have not.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## a. palmer jr. (Dec 16, 2018)

I have so many saws that need fixed right now that I wouldn't even consider ordering a kit saw....maybe if my shop was empty?


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## Bedford T (Dec 16, 2018)

I was trying to draw the 380 posts in the 660 thread to here. So they did not have to dig for it 

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## Big_6 (Dec 16, 2018)

L34 
That is a nice fix. 
Do you prime it on every start with out the choke?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## L34 (Dec 17, 2018)

No.When it's warm it's ok to start.
Only prime on cold start.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 2, 2019)

Anyone with the pre built g388? 
Is it more like the old 038 or like the ms380. 
I know a guy that has ran that style for 30yrs and he want a new one. 
038m


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## Bedford T (Jan 2, 2019)

The 388 is a blue 380. I have yet to verify the cylinder size.




chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 2, 2019)

Dang. Theirs a few parts that can’t be obtained easily over here for the 380. 
One is the airfilter I think.


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## Ridge1 (Jan 26, 2019)

Okay my 380 runs good but when I start to put it up it leaks fuel down onto the handle I checked the vent the vents good gas is coming out of the carburetor between the air filter and the carburetor one of my local still guys told me to check something inside the carburetor is this something I can fix or is it time to get a new carb


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## Bedford T (Jan 26, 2019)

Ridge1 said:


> Okay my 380 runs good but when I start to put it up it leaks fuel down onto the handle I checked the vent the vents good gas is coming out of the carburetor between the air filter and the carburetor one of my local still guys told me to check something inside the carburetor is this something I can fix or is it time to get a new carb


Ridge I'm not clear how you're handling this but I've got a question did you pressure test the fuel tank and do a vacuum test?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## Ridge1 (Jan 26, 2019)

Did a pressure test on the tank it was good
Took out the vent to inspect it did vacuum test on the vent it was good
Don't know if you remember for my earlier post but I originally thought I had a bad tank on this 380
After receiving some testing tools was able to go in there and find out gas was leaking from the carburetor
When I turn the saw off remove the air filter and let it sit you can see gas start to puddle up inside the carburetor


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## Bedford T (Jan 26, 2019)

Ridge1 said:


> Did a pressure test on the tank it was good
> Took out the vent to inspect it did vacuum test on the vent it was good
> Don't know if you remember for my earlier post but I originally thought I had a bad tank on this 380
> After receiving some testing tools was able to go in there and find out gas was leaking from the carburetor
> When I turn the saw off remove the air filter and let it sit you can see gas start to puddle up inside the carburetor


I know you think you did a vacuum test but you need to do the test while it's in place not while it's removed for various reasons.

Test that and see if there is a difference.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 26, 2019)

Put your pressure gun on the carb nipple and see if it’ll hold any pressure. Sounds like your needle maybe leaking


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## Bedford T (Jan 26, 2019)

I am wondering if pressure is building up. That would have been my next step.

I had trouble on mine and fuel would leak around the FarmerTec filter. He said he put a gasket in between if I read it right. Lot going on. Hoping to take small steps.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 26, 2019)

It should let vacuum in and no pressure out. It could build up several pounds of pressure sitting in the sun.


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## Bedford T (Jan 26, 2019)

Fuel creates pressure, the grade of gas contributes. They figured that on the the rescues right, the spray.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## Ridge1 (Jan 26, 2019)

Put pressure to the nipple of the carburetor it will not build up any pressure if the needle is stuck open is that something I can open up the carburetor and remedy


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## 67L36Driver (Jan 26, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Anyone with the pre built g388?
> Is it more like the old 038 or like the ms380.
> I know a guy that has ran that style for 30yrs and he want a new one.
> 038m



Try this:
Professional Gas chainsaw 72cc electric chain saw petrol saw with 18" bar https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/192377847430

It needed some tweaking but works great.


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 26, 2019)

Ridge1 said:


> Put pressure to the nipple of the carburetor it will not build up any pressure if the needle is stuck open is that something I can open up the carburetor and remedy



It’s not sealing. Take the cover off and needle out. Hopefully somethings just hung under it.


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## Ridge1 (Jan 26, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> It should let vacuum in and no pressure out. It could build up several pounds of pressure sitting in the sun.


Good thought I had been cutting some wood 
It was about 30 degrees that day 6 almost dark I was not in the Sun
I also release the cap a couple of times because I thought it may have been building up pressure
decided to take the cover off and filter off and check the makeshift gasket that I made because the filter does not fit tightly to the carb I do have another filter on order as I was sitting there I noticed gas was leaking from the carb opening I tipped up the sawto let the gas out and watched again as gas started to puddle in carb


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## Ridge1 (Jan 26, 2019)

Okay I disassembled the carb didn't find anything under the PIN but I did find a pinhole in front of the throat plate
Not sure if that's supposed to be there for some reason


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## Ridge1 (Jan 26, 2019)

Is it normal for the throat plate to be out of round and maybe that's holding the throttle open


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## Bedford T (Jan 26, 2019)

I am not ingoring ya. It just looks like you hear him better so I will let him assist you. I have hands on experience with it and my take is different and would require your cooperation. Not a good kit.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 27, 2019)

Ridge1 said:


> Okay I disassembled the carb didn't find anything under the PIN but I did find a pinhole in front of the throat plate
> Not sure if that's supposed to be there for some reasonView attachment 699707



Does it hold any pressure now? If it doesn’t then it’s the needle or the sealing surface it touches needs addressing. It’s got to seal. That hole is the idle circuit.


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## Ridge1 (Jan 27, 2019)

Check vent while install it does release vacuum pressure
Took carb apart adjusted the throat plate it was pretty much out of round didn't notice anything under the needle but went ahead and wiped it off ran a plastic toothpick through its sealing surface didn't find any gunk in there reassembled and it does hold a little more than.05 MPA
But if I pump it up more than that the pressure comes down to just above that


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## Ridge1 (Jan 27, 2019)

Now after 10 minutes it's setting right on point .05 m p a


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## Ridge1 (Jan 27, 2019)

Bedford T said:


> I am not ingoring ya. It just looks like you hear him better so I will let him assist you. I have hands on experience with it and my take is different and would require your cooperation. Not a good kit.
> 
> chainsaw kits and packing lists
> http://thechainsawkitguy.com
> http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy


I did a vacuum test with the vent out by blowing into the brass side of it then reinstall it in the saw used a bulb tester created vacuum and it released the bulb after just 10 seconds or so I don't know if we're going for a certain amount of negative pressure release but it does release the pressure which I guess would mean air can get in the tank but still can't get out of the tank so I don't know what the vent would have to do with that school me please


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 27, 2019)

Ridge1 said:


> Check vent while install it does release vacuum pressure
> Took carb apart adjusted the throat plate it was pretty much out of round didn't notice anything under the needle but went ahead and wiped it off ran a plastic toothpick through its sealing surface didn't find any gunk in there reassembled and it does hold a little more than.05 MPA
> But if I pump it up more than that the pressure comes down to just above that



.06mpa is about 9psi so I would say that’s sealing.


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## Ridge1 (Jan 27, 2019)

Okay I took the throat plate back out modified it a little more and now I'm holding .08 steady
The throat plate was not sitting flush with the idle screw all the way out so I think that was holding the needle open a bit
Is there anything else I can make sure of while I'm in this carb
Thanks to everyone


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## Ridge1 (Jan 27, 2019)

And I think it would be good to have some kind of washer about 1/8 of an inch thick between the carb and the air filter to make a good seal
Don't know if a garden hose washer would be good to use with gas that size is about the right size if anyone has any thoughts I'd appreciate it


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## Ridge1 (Jan 27, 2019)

There must have been trash on the needle that I didn't see a little bit of black stuff had come off of it but I didn't see any sizable particles 
I had to retune it after I put the car back on took a little bit of time 
Okay I made this gasket out of a washer that's for a water heater The Saw runs really good with it no leaks after I finally got it tuned it's idling at about 4500 RPMs and maxing out about 13 any suggestions on where I should find tune


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 27, 2019)

The idle is a little high. Spec is around 2500 I believe. 
I would adjust the low using lean drop off method and get to at close to 3000 without the chain turning. 
The High adjustment should be good as long as it’s still 4 stroking. 
Your washer looks like it would work fine as long as it doesn’t affect the choke. 
I’ve cut one out of gasket paper and it worked also. Makes the choke work better


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## Ridge1 (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanks for the info I had to get something to push the filter out a little bit cuz my little choke lever wouldn't engage at all


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 27, 2019)

Ridge1 said:


> Thanks for the info I had to get something to push the filter out a little bit cuz my little choke lever wouldn't engage at all



I can see spacing the filter out some may limit the choke engagement.


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## Ridge1 (Jan 27, 2019)

Without anything my choke lever won't even touch the choke lever on the air filter


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 27, 2019)

Oh, I forgot the 380’s had that problem, I’m not sure. 
What did you do on yours Bedford? Did yours have that problem.


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## Ridge1 (Jan 28, 2019)

I got the 380 tuned and I was able to cut some wood yesterday I noticed that the bottom screw on my fellings spike was broken any suggestions on how to remove that broken screw


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## X 66 Stang347 X (Jan 28, 2019)

Ridge1 said:


> I got the 380 tuned and I was able to cut some wood yesterday I noticed that the bottom screw on my fellings spike was broken any suggestions on how to remove that broken screw



Sorry to hear that. Have you got it out? 
I would use a easy out or screw extractor. On small screws start by using a small drill bit then work your way up to the size needed for your extractor.


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## Bedford T (Feb 13, 2019)

The original kit was very problematic. I took a gamble the timing was off and replaced the crank, rebuilt from the ground up. I am close to being finished. am at the point where i have good tests on the crankcase and cylinder. the flywheel which is oem should be here in the next few days and i can see if i blew my money. be great if all those door stops were put in service and gave the buyer what he bought to start with. the carb box was clean and dry. the area around the oiler was dry. i will have oem ignition and fuel circuit now

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9Q3gd5dU2LdxYJwXhrE6hR3zyypWIfXq


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## Ridge1 (Feb 14, 2019)

X 66 Stang347 X said:


> Sorry to hear that. Have you got it out?
> I would use a easy out or screw extractor. On small screws start by using a small drill bit then work your way up to the size needed for your extractor.


I was able to remove the screw as I was drilling it out and progressing in size it actually screwed itself right out the back of the saw so that worked out good and I just shot some are in there and then resend it out with a threader
Thanks for the insight


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## auskip07 (Jun 2, 2021)

Hey fellas, finished my 380 build. minus a few extra parts and 2 missing screws for the spikes

Can anyone help identify the missing parts and where they go?


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## RED-85-Z51 (Jun 2, 2021)

auskip07 said:


> Hey fellas, finished my 380 build. minus a few extra parts and 2 missing screws for the spikes
> 
> Can anyone help identify the missing parts and where they go?


The 2 round parts go behind the carb around and inside the boot


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## a. palmer jr. (Jun 2, 2021)

The third package looks like the rear mount that sits on the left side and up near the air box at the side.


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## Bedford T (Jun 2, 2021)

Looks carb related. Likely nuts to hold carb on posts, the piece that surrounds the boot and the thin one goes in the boots throat. The other pac to the right looks like parts for a chain adjuster. Sometimes stuff is extra. Nice job


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## auskip07 (Jun 3, 2021)

Bedford T said:


> Looks carb related. Likely nuts to hold carb on posts, the piece that surrounds the boot and the thin one goes in the boots throat. The other pac to the right looks like parts for a chain adjuster. Sometimes stuff is extra. Nice job


I'll have to go look at your tear down videos again. I thought since the filter screws down to the carb studs I didn't need the independent nuts on the carb


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## Bedford T (Jun 3, 2021)

I was just telling you what they appeared to be. Often a spare/extra something wound up in the kits. I would look back @ video I was careful about placement. The filter is important because the choke is located in it and you don't want it twisting. I just looked at the ipl and nuts are shown.


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## GeorgiaVol (Jun 3, 2021)

Wonder when they will do a 3120XP kit?


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## auskip07 (Jun 3, 2021)

Bedford T said:


> I was just telling you what they appeared to be. Often a spare/extra something wound up in the kits. I would look back @ video I was careful about placement. The filter is important because the choke is located in it and you don't want it twisting. I just looked at the ipl and nuts are shown.


10-4 , checked the ipl also this morning and did see the nuts there


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## auskip07 (Jun 28, 2021)

finally decided to get it running after work today. I have the full throttle flutter im assuming is the air filter choke flap. Not alot of genuine options on the market any more since its discontinued (via stihl) so ill have to try to remove some material from the filter flap that i have 

Let it idle for about 5 minutes overall very happy with it. 

*carb settings*
Also not sure about your carb adjustments but i started with 1 turn out on each and that didnt get the job done. After a little tinkering im probably closer to 1/2 turn on the screw if not a little less. didnt know if you guys were seeing the same thing.


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## MFV (Jun 28, 2021)

auskip07 said:


> finally decided to get it running after work today. I have the full throttle flutter im assuming is the air filter choke flap. Not alot of genuine options on the market any more since its discontinued (via stihl) so ill have to try to remove some material from the filter flap that i have
> 
> Let it idle for about 5 minutes overall very happy with it.
> 
> ...


Yes my 880 is like this. I put a brand new wg 13 on it and I am about 3/4 out on the h screw at 10,000 to 10,500 it should be set at 11,500 but I don’t want to crank it down anymore. I have been testing it out and plan to cut the rest of my test logs up this weekend to split and get out of the way. Maybe do more adjusting.


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## Bedford T (Jun 28, 2021)

auskip07 said:


> finally decided to get it running after work today. I have the full throttle flutter im assuming is the air filter choke flap. Not alot of genuine options on the market any more since its discontinued (via stihl) so ill have to try to remove some material from the filter flap that i have
> 
> Let it idle for about 5 minutes overall very happy with it.
> 
> ...


The carb settings can vary. You don't say what carb you have. I think you can get a OEM carb. On the filter think eBay global. Look in Australia and new Zealand, maybe Germany and you can find a real air filter. Just buy a couple to do a while. 

1.5 turns sounds reasonable


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## auskip07 (Jun 28, 2021)

Bedford T said:


> The carb settings can vary. You don't say what carb you have. I think you can get a OEM carb. On the filter think eBay global. Look in Australia and new Zealand, maybe Germany and you can find a real air filter. Just buy a couple to do a while.
> 
> 1.5 turns sounds reasonable


Carb is farmtech kit carb
i wish it was 1.5 turns but .5 turn is what its set at.. very low but it runs so im not sure i can complain. ill need to adjust the high when i get a replacement filter


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## MFV (Jun 28, 2021)

auskip07 said:


> Carb is farmtech kit carb
> i wish it was 1.5 turns but .5 turn is what its set at.. very low but it runs so im not sure i can complain. ill need to adjust the high when i get a replacement filter


Yes I replaced my filter got only 500 rpms more


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## auskip07 (Jun 28, 2021)

MFV said:


> Yes I replaced my filter got only 500 rpms more


im just trying to get a consistent rpm as a baseline. the fluttering really keeps me from dialing in the H needle. I do know that this saw design is a lower reviing saw and my base gasket delete didnt do it any favors


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## MFV (Jun 28, 2021)

auskip07 said:


> im just trying to get a consistent rpm as a baseline. the fluttering really keeps me from dialing in the H needle. I do know that this saw design is a lower reviing saw and my base gasket delete didnt do it any favors


I didn’t do any mods I am like you just trying to figure out if it is safe to run . It sounds good and runs good it’s just not at 1 turn out like what you said.


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## MFV (Jun 28, 2021)

I am about done for tonight if you think of anything else we can figure it out tomorrow maybe


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## Bedford T (Jun 29, 2021)

Guys run it at 32:1 and work on getting a better filter. It's a crappy filter but you might try just replacing the spring if you don't like hunting for the filter. I just asked google for 1119-124-3000 labeled torsion spring on the ipl. I got a German site. <4$

Filters could show up as
1119-120-1621, 1617, 1618

The shutter is1119-120-2900
Carb 1119-120-0605


The screws and the spring are adjustment. I wondered if after you got it started if you had placed a magnet on the flap back and pulled it out of the way. That of course would never work. It's a weak point for sure.


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## auskip07 (Jun 29, 2021)

took the farmtech filter off and decided to wrap the spring around again to see if i can put more tension on it. It works no flutter ! 
Saw does scream now (will need to richen it up but its getting dark and i dont want to piss the neighbors off too much) I dont have a tach so i wont know how fast its turning but i guess it doesnt matter that much.


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## auskip07 (Jul 3, 2021)

finding a few issues here and there. the gas and oil caps that were supplied with the kit seep liquid through the 2 piece design. ill be looking for OEM style ones asap but i thought i would give everyone a heads up. 

Both caps were cleaned and i just stood there and watch them seep in real time.


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