# Stihl Chains & File Sizes



## Mirek (Nov 21, 2010)

Just checking to see if these files are the right ones i'm using for my stihl chains. I hope someone can confirm this stuff.

MS200T- 3/8"PM, .050 = 5/32" file

MS260- .325 RSC, .063 = 3/16" file

MS260- 3/8" RSC, .050 = 13/64" file

MS261- 3/8" RSC, .050 = 13/64" file

are those the right files i'm using for these saws?
thankz


http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/chainsawguy.gif


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## JDNicol (Nov 21, 2010)

Welcome to AS!
Looks alright to me.


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## Mirek (Nov 21, 2010)

superman10058 said:


> Welcome to AS!
> Looks alright to me.



thaNKs! thats a good chart.


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## Swamp Yankee (Nov 21, 2010)

Welcome X 2

7/32 files will work fine with the 3/8 RSC if you can't find 13/64 readily. 7/32 can be a bit tricky to start on the first sharpening, but other than that there's no noticeable difference.

Take Care


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## oscar4883 (Nov 21, 2010)

I find 13/64 to work the best on regular 3/8 Stihl chain for the vast majority of its life. Towards the end 7/32 works well.


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## ttyR2 (Nov 21, 2010)

In the Bailey's catalog, most of the .375 Oregon chain (yeah...it's actually .367) lists as using a 7/32 file. Is Stihl chain different? What am I going to lose if I stick with 7/32 files with the Stihl RSC chain I'll be running?


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## JDNicol (Nov 21, 2010)

ttyR2 said:


> In the Bailey's catalog, most of the .375 Oregon chain (yeah...it's actually .367) lists as using a 7/32 file. Is Stihl chain different? What am I going to lose if I stick with 7/32 files with the Stihl RSC chain I'll be running?



I use Oregon 7/32 on any Stihl 3/8 chains i have to sharpen with no ill effects. Haven't got round to getting the right file as virtually all my chains are Oregon.


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## galde (Nov 21, 2010)

oscar4883 said:


> I find 13/64 to work the best on regular 3/8 Stihl chain for the vast majority of its life. Towards the end 7/32 works well.



Don't you want to drop to a smaller, not larger size when getting down to the last of the tooth? The new-tooth file size starts cutting into the drive link and tie straps when the tooth is at its last.


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## BlackOakTreeServ (Nov 21, 2010)

Swamp Yankee said:


> Welcome X 2
> 
> 7/32 files will work fine with the 3/8 RSC if you can't find 13/64 readily. 7/32 can be a bit tricky to start on the first sharpening, but other than that there's no noticeable difference.
> 
> Take Care



Yep, this what I use as well, 7/32 for 3/8 RSC, seems to stay sharper longer


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## mikefunaro (Nov 21, 2010)

woodsman44 said:


> Yep, this what I use as well, 7/32 for 3/8 RSC, seems to stay sharper longer



This should be the case. The larger file gives you less hook, less hook lasts longer but cuts a little bit less aggressively.


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## Swamp Yankee (Nov 21, 2010)

ttyR2 said:


> In the Bailey's catalog, most of the .375 Oregon chain (yeah...it's actually .367) lists as using a 7/32 file. Is Stihl chain different? What am I going to lose if I stick with 7/32 files with the Stihl RSC chain I'll be running?



Nothing

Don't even worry about it. Chain will be just as sharp and pull just as well.

Take Care


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## Swamp Yankee (Nov 21, 2010)

mikefunaro said:


> This should be the case. The larger file gives you less hook, less hook lasts longer but cuts a little bit less aggressively.



For your consideration,

Since the file radius difference is only a nominal 1/128 or .008 inches I really doubt it makes a difference. Either will cut a hook just fine and stay out of the chassis if you know what you're doing.

Take Care


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## bigblackdodge (Dec 13, 2010)

*.325 20"*

Someone help me out here please. I have found that the 3/16 file is too small for the 20" .325 chains when used with the file guide that locks to the file itself. I have to use a 13/64 for this. Has anyone else run into this?:chainsawguy:


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## mikefunaro (Dec 13, 2010)

1. what do you mean "too small" in terms of the file? A file that is too small would generally cut too much of a hook?

2. Is your file attachment designed to work with 3/16" files?


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## Trigger-Time (Dec 13, 2010)

Mirek,

Welcome to AS, I see you have some very, very nice saws listed 

So unless you want to spend the money on 70cc,80cc,90cc saws
and maybe bigger. Take your file information and run from AS
and never come back!!

If you decide to stay, don't ever say you were never warned :hmm3grin2orange:



TT


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## bigblackdodge (Dec 13, 2010)

yeah the guide I'm using is an Oregon model for a 3/16 file, and on my 14" MS 170 it does fine. But on the 20" the file doesn't catch all of the tooth. It doesn't go deep enough to put the right edge on the side cutter, just files the top plate and the upper half of the side cutter.


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## MNfarmer (Dec 13, 2010)

oscar4883 said:


> I find 13/64 to work the best on regular 3/8 Stihl chain for the vast majority of its life. Towards the end 7/32 works well.



It's funny you said that because I do just the opposite. To me starting with 13/64 doesn't get the top of the cutter sharp unless you old up on the file. Towards the end of the chains life if I keep using 7/32 I don't seem to get enough hook to the cutter and so I then switch to 13/64 to finish it off. Probably not the textbook way or anybody else's, but I've had good luck doing it that way.


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## bigblackdodge (Dec 13, 2010)

check that! I use a 5/32 on the MS170. The 3/16 works fine on my 18" setup for the MS290, but the 20" setup seems to have bigger teeth, but all my 20" chains are Stihl brand and are .325, 20", .63gauge and 81links.


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## MNfarmer (Dec 13, 2010)

bigblackdodge said:


> Someone help me out here please. I have found that the 3/16 file is too small for the 20" .325 chains when used with the file guide that locks to the file itself. I have to use a 13/64 for this. Has anyone else run into this?:chainsawguy:



I ran into that using the guide with a 13/64 file. I finally gave up and ditched the guide and now do all my filing free hand. It does take practice and by no means do I claim to be a pro. As long as I can keep the chain cutting the way it is supposed to I consider it a success. And no I won't mention how many chains I went through trying to learn how to file!!!!!


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## bigblackdodge (Dec 13, 2010)

I have been sawing for 25 years and I am still no pro at free hand filing! LOL! I guess I'll just keep using the old benchtop grinder on the 20" stuff! Just hate to waste so much valuable tooth material.
Thanks for the info though.


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## Fish (Dec 13, 2010)

bigblackdodge said:


> I have been sawing for 25 years and I am still no pro at free hand filing! LOL! I guess I'll just keep using the old benchtop grinder on the 20" stuff! Just hate to waste so much valuable tooth material.
> Thanks for the info though.



Don't know why you would say that, you have to remove the damaged
cutter to properly sharpen the chain, grinder or file.........

Having an arsenal of many file diameters is nice to properly sharpen chains,
as the proper file size differs from brand and chain model, pitch has little
to do with it.
When selling the customer a proper file, I like to have the chain in question
to properly gauge the correct angle that the file will produce on THAT chain.

With a grinder, the angle is determined by the side of the grinder wheel.


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## Fish (Dec 13, 2010)

Also, the farther back the chain is sharpened, the lower/smaller the cutter=
file diameter is needed for proper sharpening.

Saying a 3/16 works on all .325 chains is silly, as well as 7/32 on all 3/8 chain.

The angles produced may be adequate for the guy filing, but not really correct.

The great thing about sharpening chain, is that even if you can barely 
sharpen a decent chain, it is still better than most.

Watching what you are doing, and knowing what angles you are trying to create is very important. Most people don't even look at the cutter.......


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## Fish (Dec 13, 2010)

Here is a chart I have posted many times in the past, the tilt is for Full Chisel


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## oldballs (Dec 16, 2010)

*Ms 290 .325 26rmc3*

Using the proper file guide for the Stihl, I don't quite comprehend the the 75 degree angle of the side cutter. Is this the "horizontal" angle that I push the file along the top cutter's 30 degree angle? If I was holding the file level with the top cutter, that would be easy. But pushing it thru in an upward thrust along the 30 degree angle kinda befuddles me.


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## Fish (Dec 16, 2010)

If you are reffering to the 10 degree drop on the full chisel, the 15 degree
is to show you the radius of the hook you are shooting for, and the correct
file size is important, and it gives a sharper corner point.


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## SawTroll (Dec 16, 2010)

ttyR2 said:


> In the Bailey's catalog, most of the .375 Oregon chain (yeah...it's actually .367) lists as using a 7/32 file. Is Stihl chain different? What am I going to lose if I stick with 7/32 files with the Stihl RSC chain I'll be running?



It is a little different, the front end of the cutter is not quite as high as on the Oregon counterparts - 7/32 will work, but there is a reason that Stihl specify 13/64. 

I use 13/64 for the last part of the Oregon chain as well as on the Stihl ones.

The chain models I refer to here is Oregon LP/LG/LGX, and Stihl RSC.



galde said:


> Don't you want to drop to a smaller, not larger size when getting down to the last of the tooth? The new-tooth file size starts cutting into the drive link and tie straps when the tooth is at its last.



:agree2:


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## oldballs (Dec 16, 2010)

Fish said:


> If you are reffering to the 10 degree drop on the full chisel, the 15 degree
> is to show you the radius of the hook you are shooting for, and the correct
> file size is important, and it gives a sharper corner point.



Maybe you answered my question by using the word "drop". This semi-chisel Stihl chain calls for a 75 degree (using the 3/16 recommended file) angle on the side plate. I guess you would call that a 25 degree "drop". As I see it that is something that one does "free hand" versus the markings on the file guide holder for the 30 degree top plate tooth.
Thanks for help.....oldballs


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