# Buying a Wood Splitter?



## Hexa Fox

Hey guys,

So a wood/log splitter is something that I have wanted a long time. So I just had a Cherry Tree taken down on my property and the guy gave me a discount to leave it lay on the ground. I haven't learned my lesson in years of doing stuff like this. I do not care what anyone says they are always bigger when they are on the ground than when they were standing.  Anyway a couple of my neighbors also had trees removed this year and for some reason decided to do the same thing. Both of them told me that I could have the left over wood if I wanted it.

You guys can probably see where this is going. I was looking for some advice on getting a log splitter. So I recently convinced myself that I was going to purchase one used because it is something that I am going to have to store outside for the time being anyway. So I figured if I found one with a little rust on it or something I could spray a little fluid film on it and be happy. However, I am noticing that a lot of these people selling them are asking close to what you could purchase a new one for and look like many of them have seen better days. I guess my questions is should I try to purchase one used and save the money? Is there a lot of risk in buying one used? Should I just bite the bullet and get one new?

I have already done some research on them, I was sold on a two way splitter, they look really cool but then I realized you cannot set them up for vertical splitting which is a deal breaker for me. Also can you pretty much by a two way splitter wedge attachment for any log splitter or are a lot of the wedges/chucks different? To clarify they are the things that usually slip over your existing wedge/chuck. I saw people using them and they look like they could save a lot of time if you are not trying to use them to split something huge.

If I decide to buy used I am guessing I should change/check all the fluids immediately? Is there anything to look out for? Like try to split a piece of wood on one and check for leaks etc? Any advice would be greatly appreciated gentlemen.

Also I notice a lot of people are interested in renting log splitters. Is this something you guys would do with yours or is that a bad idea? Do you guys ever do splitting jobs for people? I would imagine that would not be cost effective. If you are using your own equipment, splitting wood and stacking it for someone I would imagine it is going to be too close to what they could just purchase a load of wood for but you guys tell me.


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## Squareground3691

If ur handy at fixing a used one , then try that route, or if you want to buy new and are going to use it a fair amount then invest in new if you’re comfortable with that . https://www.logsplittersdirect.com/


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## ElevatorGuy

I looked for used briefly before buying my new TSC 30 ton unit. Used price as you stated was why and now they have gone up even more. If buying used make sure to take a few rounds to try it first and a Honda engine is a plus. Buying a used splitter right now is like buying a lawn mower in the spring though. Good luck.


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## Hexa Fox

ElevatorGuy said:


> I looked for used briefly before buying my new TSC 30 ton unit. Used price as you stated was why and now they have gone up even more. If buying used make sure to take a few rounds to try it first and a Honda engine is a plus. Buying a used splitter right now is like buying a lawn mower in the spring though. Good luck.



Yeah I thought the same thing about Honda engines. Except they are putting the really small engines on them. A lot of the MTD ones have the smaller GC 160 on the 22 ton log splitters. They are good engines do not get me wrong but that engine seems to really struggle to power those pumps. Not sure if MTD is correct nowadays but I am referring to the Troy Bilt, Cub Cadet, Yard Machines, Craftsman etc. Once you move up to the 25 ton or more on those splitters they put a generic engine on it with their sticker. 

I found a few of them used online with the Honda engine and was really excited but they really seem to struggle and have really long cycle times. I think it is the GC 190 that makes a pretty big difference but I guess that is too expensive for their budget. I found a couple of the County Line splitters to be reasonably priced as well. I also found a couple online as well. I have a local Tractor Supply now so I might stop by and take a look at them up close.


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## ElevatorGuy

I was die hard Honda or Kawasaki engine but my 30 ton TSC splitter has a 9.5 hp kohler that’s been alright. I’m not a kohler fan but it was available. It’s split stuff that stalled my buddy’s 27 ton Troy built with a 190cc Honda. I think my kohler is a 340cc. It’s a a lot faster than my buddy’s splitter but mostly that’s the pump. Looking back I’d buy the northstar 37 ton with the big Honda and log lift.


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## Bubster

I have a Power Pro 27 ton . Bought new for $1300 and two years later they now sell for $1700. I have the Honda GC 160 and I agree it is no power house, but starting in cold weather sure beats a Kohler.As for splitting, if it can't split a knot, it will cut it. I have split some very ugly maple and cherry knots. It may bog down, but has never killed the engine. As for renting it out, I would not. Too many think you can pull it down the interstate at 80 mph.As for hiring out yourself and machine, not a bad idea. Around here I have charged $50/ hr for me and my wife splitting. Not a bad little side job.


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## gggGary

Was pretty strong in the wood splitter weighs 8lbs camp, but some elm and mid sixties had me grab a well used but still in nice shape 28 ton, plenty for anything I've thrown at it. The 7.0 Briggs is a great motor. almost always one easy pull starting even after months of sitting. Yes the horizontal vertical units are the way to go, no sense lifting big heavy rounds when you can roll and split em on the ground. Unless you have a lot of time to watch the ads, new is prolly the hot tip. Cherry is easy splitting. Easier to hand split and noodle a few crotches than drag a splitter out.
Helping an old neighbor stock up.



This unit has a 2 speed ram, drops down "into low gear" for tough knots even elm knots so gnarly I have to knock them off the wedge with a maul won't stop it.
About 3/4 of my splitting still with an 8 lb maul.


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## Hexa Fox

I found a nice splitter local to me. County Line 28 Ton with a Honda GC 190 on it. Not really that local, he is an hour away from me. The unit does look like it is in excellent shape. He said he is firm on the $1,300 price. Do you guys think that is worth it? He might come down a little. 

Also I noticed these splitters can be pretty heavy. I have a decent sit of ramps I usually use for push mowers. Do you guys think two people could load a splitter like this onto the back of a truck for a longer transport?


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## Hexa Fox

ElevatorGuy said:


> I was die hard Honda or Kawasaki engine but my 30 ton TSC splitter has a 9.5 hp kohler that’s been alright. I’m not a kohler fan but it was available. It’s split stuff that stalled my buddy’s 27 ton Troy built with a 190cc Honda. I think my kohler is a 340cc. It’s a a lot faster than my buddy’s splitter but mostly that’s the pump. Looking back I’d buy the northstar 37 ton with the big Honda and log lift.



Yeah definitely not a fan of modern Kohler engines. However, I heard the Command line was a exception to this. Sort of the same when I bought my Ferris. I really wanted to get into the Vanguard line but you have to move up several models to get it. Now I think they put the Vanguard sticker on anything. Something else that I noticed about the Kohlers is that they have a considerably less cycle time than the Honda's as well.


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## ElevatorGuy

2 guys are not pushing it up ramps unless you have a hill working in your favor. If it’s like my 30T with full beam construction. That sucker is heavy.


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## StihlsawuserMS361

My two cents worth:
I bought a Tractor Supply 25 ton splitter (limited choices) about a year and a half ago, as my shoulders decided splitting with a maul became too difficult. Later that year, the price rose about $350+, same specs. engine etc. ( I was late (old) to the game, or I would have bought an Iron and Oak with a Honda engine) Mine has a Kohler motor, no complaints, had great reviews. I did make a log catcher as the store-bought version was light weight and not large enough.
Like the OP said, there are used ones out there on CL etc. I looked locally, most were either beat up or almost the same price as new. My thought process is to maintain and clean it well, when I've had enough , sell it for a good price and re-coup much of my investment.
Prior, I would also rent one from a local nearby company. The only problem with renting is you're under the gun to finish and return it within 8 hours. They charge about $80 a day, decent price. Nice thing about your own, it's at your disposal 24/7, with no time restrictions What I do is keep track of the hours I use mine , divide by $80/ per day to get total days used, then subtract from the units cost to justify the purchase.

So your used $1300 one sounds decent. The seller knows it's value, he may or may not be negotiable on price.
Hope this helps, good luck


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## Jughead

Several years ago I had several large trees cut down, too large for me. Mostly Oak, Cherry & some pine. After a couple weekends of trying to manually split I bought a 27ton Champion splitter from HD. 0% 2 year financing. Bought it for $1,100 in 2018 and it's worth every penny. don't know how many logs I split.


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## gggGary

Splitters ARE high and HEAVY don't attempt a ramp load.
Go ahead hate me, paid 500 for that 28 ton.
This one works well once you get her started, but ongoing maintenance can get kinda pricey.


If you won't be splitting a lot every year? https://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-...plitters/20-ton-212cc-log-splitter-61594.html


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## OM617YOTA

Around here, it's not worth buying a used splitter, they're just priced too close to new. It's like Honda 2000w generators. I'm not paying $950 for a used one, when they're $1200 new.

Not worth building one, either. I priced that out a couple years back, and was up to the cost of a new splitter, just in hydraulics and the motor. That was before adding steel, wheels, or picking up a tape measure and soapstone. I was hoping to build a 240v electric powered splitter, as I only split here at home near the shop, and I REALLY didn't want to deal with maintaining another gas engine, but the cost just wasn't worth it.

If you're not in a hurry for a splitter, maybe keep your eyes open and see if a fantastic deal comes around, or if someone you know is letting one go. I'd pay $950 for a used splitter if I know it's been maintained and cared for. There's a Champion 34T nearish by going for $1200, new they're $2000, has one season of use on it. If I needed a splitter, I'd probably roll the dice on that one.

Y'all will laugh at me for this, but a few years back I bought a 5 ton electric splitter. I was skeptical, but as I said, I REALLY didn't want to deal with another gas engine, and was willing to roll the dice on $350 to try it. It split 7+ cords, and only failed to split less than 10 pieces of wood. Very nice to put in ear buds and split wood while listening to an audiobook or podcast. Also nice to be splitting wood inside the shop, while rain is being blown sideways outside. No, it's not going to handle a 4 foot round, but I try to avoid that stuff if possible too.

I also have plenty of saws, and ready access to a buddy's 37 ton splitter, any time I want it. That seems to be the best set up. Don't have a splitter yourself, have a buddy with a splitter.


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## quahog

Jughead said:


> Several years ago I had several large trees cut down, too large for me. Mostly Oak, Cherry & some pine. After a couple weekends of trying to manually split I bought a 27ton Champion splitter from HD. 0% 2 year financing. Bought it for $1,100 in 2018 and it's worth every penny. don't know how many logs I split.



I was just looking at that and their 34 ton at HD an hour ago. I won't buy one until after I move next year, but I'll either grab one of these or the Countyline from TSC. HD has the generous .mil discount which helps. 

It's either that or i go whole hog and drop $15K on something industrial like. I doubt I'll do that. 

I've been splitting by hand, but I'm certainly not getting any younger or healthier.


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## Hexa Fox

ElevatorGuy said:


> 2 guys are not pushing it up ramps unless you have a hill working in your favor. If it’s like my 30T with full beam construction. That sucker is heavy.


Thank you, this was actually pretty important information to me. Because there is no way I am hauling it behind me for over an hour. This will also help me too. We live on the Shenandoah river so there are a lot of hills around where I live lol. I bought a two stage snow blower one year and unloaded it on one of my hills. I will make certain I ask whoever I buy one off of if there are any hills near by.


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## Hexa Fox

quahog said:


> I've been splitting by hand, but I'm certainly not getting any younger or healthier.



Tell me about it. I am only 33 but I have done a lot of splitting by hand and was not taught how to properly swing an age or hit a wedge at first. I still make costly mistakes but I learned from YouTube how to "let the tool do the work". It has definitely made it a lot easier on me. I just have some huge pieces of this cherry tree and some from my neighbor. 

Anyway the question remains, would you guys ever consider renting your log splitter or offering your services to someone that needs wood split? I am sort of against renting anything because of how people treat stuff. I always thought about starting a little rental business with a zero turn that I repaired or something. However, as many of you know people just treat your equipment like crap. They will rent a zero turn you put a lot of work into so they can brush hog a log that has not been mowed in five years or worse drop the deck down so low they are mowing dirt.


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## Hexa Fox

gggGary said:


> Splitters ARE high and HEAVY don't attempt a ramp load.
> Go ahead hate me, paid 500 for that 28 ton.
> This one works well once you get her started, but ongoing maintenance can get kinda pricey.
> View attachment 1018762
> 
> If you won't be splitting a lot every year? https://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-...plitters/20-ton-212cc-log-splitter-61594.html



So this is the one that I meant I was very interested in. Because it is convenient and definitely faster. Having that said, I realized you are going to lose the ability to split wood vertically, which is important to me with some of the logs I will be splitting with it right now even. So you mean you bought the one I mentioned for $500? I am sure if I offered him $1,000 he would take it but I do believe that is still a steep price for a used log splitter. The Kohler equivalent they are selling now is $2,099 on the website. He will probably sell it just because it has the Hona GC190 on it.


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## OM617YOTA

quahog said:


> I won't buy one until after I move next year,



I know moving it is a pain, but don't wait if you can help it. Prices on everything are going up, fast. Depending on how far you're moving, and what your capabilities are, it may well be worth the PITA to save the $$$$.


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## OM617YOTA

Oh, and as far as renting it out, not a chance. Maybe with a cash deposit that's $100 more than full current replacement cost.


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## blades

vertical and big rounds. sounds good right no lifting, until you try to move that chunk sitting on the flat side under the wedge. even if you dig the toe plate in a bit 50+ # chunks don't like to move and you are on your knees or bending over trying to get purchase power. I am about 160# I just do not have the mass to move something 30" or better in dia. by around 16-18' tall ( and better believe tha round of oak that size is in 75-100# area) in the dirt almost not possible on hard surface as well. That's what I found some 20 years ago. same splitter now but rebuilt heavy duty ( 30ton I bent the foot plate and sprung the beam over the course of time hence the rebuild) horz only now. those big rounds get noodled( sawed) down to where i can moving them with out ripping myself up, it was only 30k for the hernia op, just as soon not do that again. Used to bust them up with sledge and wedge, at 71 parts of me ain't what they used to be. wood in pic starts at 20"dia


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## OM617YOTA

I use a hand truck and a peavy for big rounds, or noodled pieces. Use the peavy to tip up an edge of the round or block, and get the hand truck under it. Then reverse the peavy, and use it to hold most of the round onto the hand truck while you tip it all back, then wheel it wherever. Grab the right surface of the block so that when you tip the hand truck back down, the block is on the splitter the right way to be split. A peavy is a huge help, even 400lbs moves easy enough with 5ft of leverage on it.

A pickaroon is a good one too, save you from bending over so much. Use the whole handle! The whole point is to extend your reach, if you're holding the pickaroon near the hook then you're forfeiting most of the advantage.


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## blades

got to have big fat tires on that hand truck or get stuck in the dirt. yes a tool to leverage things around helps- still a pia in my book.


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## OM617YOTA

Yep, definitely one of the big wheel hand trucks. If you have one of the little indoor concrete floor appliance hand trucks, don't bother.


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## gggGary

Hexa Fox said:


> you bought the one I mentioned for $500?


This one used for $500 






I've had 5 or 6 splitters over the years, most were just picked up when I saw a deal, clean up, fix up if needed, split an elm or three, resell.
Couple years ago got a three point splitter for $75! Tried to pay him more but the guy wouldn't take it. Shrug. Ran it off my skidsteer hydraulics but that's not so convenient. So off it went.


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## Hexa Fox

OM617YOTA said:


> I use a hand truck and a peavy for big rounds, or noodled pieces. Use the peavy to tip up an edge of the round or block, and get the hand truck under it. Then reverse the peavy, and use it to hold most of the round onto the hand truck while you tip it all back, then wheel it wherever. Grab the right surface of the block so that when you tip the hand truck back down, the block is on the splitter the right way to be split. A peavy is a huge help, even 400lbs moves easy enough with 5ft of leverage on it.
> 
> A pickaroon is a good one too, save you from bending over so much. Use the whole handle! The whole point is to extend your reach, if you're holding the pickaroon near the hook then you're forfeiting most of the advantage.



I never thought of that. I just bought a hand truck from Costco. It is pretty nice. I also have at least one of the tools you are mentioning too. They have sat in my closet forever. Yeah I learned a long time ago whether you are working on cars or moving huge logs, leverage can be an excellent tool.


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## Hexa Fox

So I guess Home Depot tuned into this thread. I just got a coupon in the mail today for 10% off and they have a Champion 22 Ton log splitter out there for like $1,200. Really thinking about it. Especially from the price of these other used units.


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## JimR

Hexa Fox said:


> I found a nice splitter local to me. County Line 28 Ton with a Honda GC 190 on it. Not really that local, he is an hour away from me. The unit does look like it is in excellent shape. He said he is firm on the $1,300 price. Do you guys think that is worth it? He might come down a little.
> 
> Also I noticed these splitters can be pretty heavy. I have a decent sit of ramps I usually use for push mowers. Do you guys think two people could load a splitter like this onto the back of a truck for a longer transport?


No way you are going to push a heavy splitter into the back of a truck up ramps. I cheat, I have a raised wall and field that I can back up to for loading and unloading equipment in and out of my truck.


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## JimR

ElevatorGuy said:


> I was die hard Honda or Kawasaki engine but my 30 ton TSC splitter has a 9.5 hp kohler that’s been alright. I’m not a kohler fan but it was available. It’s split stuff that stalled my buddy’s 27 ton Troy built with a 190cc Honda. I think my kohler is a 340cc. It’s a a lot faster than my buddy’s splitter but mostly that’s the pump. Looking back I’d buy the northstar 37 ton with the big Honda and log lift.


I picked up this used NorthStar last year for $1K. I wish it had the log loader on it. I did add the wings on the Ram and a cover to protect the motor.


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## david newbie

Jughead said:


> Several years ago I had several large trees cut down, too large for me. Mostly Oak, Cherry & some pine. After a couple weekends of trying to manually split I bought a 27ton Champion splitter from HD. 0% 2 year financing. Bought it for $1,100 in 2018 and it's worth every penny. don't know how many logs I split.





Jughead said:


> Several years ago I had several large trees cut down, too large for me. Mostly Oak, Cherry & some pine. After a couple weekends of trying to manually split I bought a 27ton Champion splitter from HD. 0% 2 year financing. Bought it for $1,100 in 2018 and it's worth every penny. don't know how many logs I split.


I just bought a lightly used one the other day just like this. When I tried to start it it felt like there was a lot of resistant in starter rope. Made me wonder if oil had gotten in the cylinder when I was moving it around. Has that ever happened to you.? Eventually , after I let it sit for awhile it stated with no problem


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## REJ2

Hexa Fox said:


> I found a nice splitter local to me. County Line 28 Ton with a Honda GC 190 on it. Not really that local, he is an hour away from me. The unit does look like it is in excellent shape. He said he is firm on the $1,300 price. Do you guys think that is worth it? He might come down a little.
> 
> Also I noticed these splitters can be pretty heavy. I have a decent sit of ramps I usually use for push mowers. Do you guys think two people could load a splitter like this onto the back of a truck for a longer transport?


Before trying to put it in the bed of a PU, borrow or rent a small trailer, the kind used to haul lawnmowers, much easier to haul a splitter for longer distances.


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## Hexa Fox

So I think I saw at least one person here say they have a Champion splitter they like. Does anyone else have one? I have a Home Depot local to me. So could use my discount and have one. I am not sure about the idea of having a "Champion" branded engine.


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## VirginiaIron

If your not sold on one yet, go to youtube and watch some videos of the various types to help you decide. Always use a tie off if attempting to load a splitter. Most are light enough for two men to push or pull up a ramp. Tie it off, one video does such thing and the beam struck the guys wife near the jaw.
I'd buy new unless you get it for half or less. 
Good luck, happy hunting!


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## soloz2

I have a 25T splitter from TSC and it's been a real workhorse for me. I just got a cover for it on Amazon and it's covered when I'm not using it. 
The prices have gone up to the point I could probably sell mine for more than I paid for it! I think regular price was able $1100 and it went on sale for $1k when I got it, now I've been seeing them for $1500.


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## quahog

Hexa Fox said:


> So I think I saw at least one person here say they have a Champion splitter they like. Does anyone else have one? I have a Home Depot local to me. So could use my discount and have one. I am not sure about the idea of having a "Champion" branded engine.



That is my concern with the Champion splitters. Not sure who makes their engines.


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## VirginiaIron

I have a Champion and I like it. The typical free 2 year warranty backed by HD is a plus.
I like it because it's not screaming loud and the steel/welds seemed better. The spool and sight glass was replaced under warranty- the company was very easy to deal with.
I haven't had a minutes problem with the engine. Starts first pull. I am told the air Filter cover may leak storm water into the carb if left uncovered.


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## VirginiaIron

Of all the Gin joints in the world it had to be a Champion I was referencing. Good video but the injury is at the end.


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## OM617YOTA

quahog said:


> That is my concern with the Champion splitters. Not sure who makes their engines.



Of the Honda GX clones, it's one of the better ones. At least as good as any other clone that'll come on a log splitter. Easy enough to swap out for a genuine Honda, if you have any problems.


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## quahog

OM617YOTA said:


> Of the Honda GX clones, it's one of the better ones. At least as good as any other clone that'll come on a log splitter. Easy enough to swap out for a genuine Honda, if you have any problems.



Good to know. Thanks.


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## quahog

VirginiaIron said:


> Of all the Gin joints in the world it had to be a Champion I was referencing. Good video but the injury is at the end.




That's another example of why you move those things on trailers. 

I don't have a BigTex 60PI-12 sitting in my yard for nothing.


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## OM617YOTA

I'd load a splitter in the back of a truck with ramps, but not pushing it by hand. Use a winch mounted up near the cab, even if just a hand winch cable puller. Even a couple stout ratchet straps.

If you get a busted leg or a busted face, and a genie popped out of a bottle and offered to make that never happen, for $1200, you'd take them up on that deal. Along those lines, if I'm loading something big, and it goes, I'm standing aside and watching it go.


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## lone wolf

OM617YOTA said:


> Around here, it's not worth buying a used splitter, they're just priced too close to new. It's like Honda 2000w generators. I'm not paying $950 for a used one, when they're $1200 new.
> 
> Not worth building one, either. I priced that out a couple years back, and was up to the cost of a new splitter, just in hydraulics and the motor. That was before adding steel, wheels, or picking up a tape measure and soapstone. I was hoping to build a 240v electric powered splitter, as I only split here at home near the shop, and I REALLY didn't want to deal with maintaining another gas engine, but the cost just wasn't worth it.
> 
> If you're not in a hurry for a splitter, maybe keep your eyes open and see if a fantastic deal comes around, or if someone you know is letting one go. I'd pay $950 for a used splitter if I know it's been maintained and cared for. There's a Champion 34T nearish by going for $1200, new they're $2000, has one season of use on it. If I needed a splitter, I'd probably roll the dice on that one.
> 
> Y'all will laugh at me for this, but a few years back I bought a 5 ton electric splitter. I was skeptical, but as I said, I REALLY didn't want to deal with another gas engine, and was willing to roll the dice on $350 to try it. It split 7+ cords, and only failed to split less than 10 pieces of wood. Very nice to put in ear buds and split wood while listening to an audiobook or podcast. Also nice to be splitting wood inside the shop, while rain is being blown sideways outside. No, it's not going to handle a 4 foot round, but I try to avoid that stuff if possible too.
> 
> I also have plenty of saws, and ready access to a buddy's 37 ton splitter, any time I want it. That seems to be the best set up. Don't have a splitter yourself, have a buddy with a splitter.


Wait a minute now it depends on if its a commercial splitter or box store one that would justify the price .


OM617YOTA said:


> I'd load a splitter in the back of a truck with ramps, but not pushing it by hand. Use a winch mounted up near the cab, even if just a hand winch cable puller. Even a couple stout ratchet straps.
> 
> If you get a busted leg or a busted face, and a genie popped out of a bottle and offered to make that never happen, for $1200, you'd take them up on that deal. Along those lines, if I'm loading something big, and it goes, I'm standing aside and watching it go.


How about tow it?


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## VirginiaIron

_Fyi- I love watching videos of woodsplitters. I get all sorts of ideas on how/how no to, or what I would change/add to the design._


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## lone wolf

VirginiaIron said:


> _Fyi- I love watching videos of woodsplitters. I get all sorts of ideas on how/how no to, or what I would change/add to the design._


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## OM617YOTA

lone wolf said:


> Wait a minute now it depends on if its a commercial splitter or box store one that would justify the price .



Good point. Guess it's like saws, lots more bang for the buck buying a used commercial saw than a new homeowner saw.



lone wolf said:


> How about tow it?



I've seen guys in their brodozers towing these things down the freeway, log splitter only touching the ground for an instant every 20 feet. The homeowner stuff is meant to be towed around someone's property with a riding mower, not actually out on the road. 20mph, tops? Take a long time to get anywhere at that speed. Really rather toss it on a legit highway rated trailer, or in the back of the truck. Some splitters are built with reasonable highway towing in mind, but none of the homeowner stuff that I'm aware of is, no matter if it's advertised as such, and has trailer lights or not.


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## lone wolf

OM617YOTA said:


> Good point. Guess it's like saws, lots more bang for the buck buying a used commercial saw than a new homeowner saw.
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen guys in their brodozers towing these things down the freeway, log splitter only touching the ground for an instant every 20 feet. The homeowner stuff is meant to be towed around someone's property with a riding mower, not actually out on the road. 20mph, tops? Take a long time to get anywhere at that speed. Really rather toss it on a legit highway rated trailer, or in the back of the truck. Some splitters are built with reasonable highway towing in mind, but none of the homeowner stuff that I'm aware of is, no matter if it's advertised as such, and has trailer lights or not.


If it dont have suspension it will hop up and down a ridiculouse amount.


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## Old Line State

The couple of box store splitters I have looked at said not to exceed 45 MPH


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## blades

he will be paying for that for quite awhile.


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## blades

Got to have a real smooth rd for 45 mph. I have an echo/Bearcat chipper shredder got all the making for road worthy except springs, good road max 30 bad road I can walk faster. Same for splitters. Think the next one I build I will have to vist the junk yard for a rear supension from some little car. or pony up for a torsion type - but i have heard that they do not last real long.


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## Hexa Fox

OM617YOTA said:


> Good point. Guess it's like saws, lots more bang for the buck buying a used commercial saw than a new homeowner saw.
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen guys in their brodozers towing these things down the freeway, log splitter only touching the ground for an instant every 20 feet. The homeowner stuff is meant to be towed around someone's property with a riding mower, not actually out on the road. 20mph, tops? Take a long time to get anywhere at that speed. Really rather toss it on a legit highway rated trailer, or in the back of the truck. Some splitters are built with reasonable highway towing in mind, but none of the homeowner stuff that I'm aware of is, no matter if it's advertised as such, and has trailer lights or not.



So this was going to be my next question. Because I have seen the same thing lol. Bouncing around like that cannot be good for them. However, if you look at them they rate most of them for "highway towing up to 45MPH". So if I purchase one from my local Home Depot and make certain I max out at 45MPH will I be in good shape?


----------



## Hexa Fox

blades said:


> he will be paying for that for quite awhile.



Yeah and this is how I keep moving up models and spending more money than I want to spend. It works out sometimes like with my Ferris IS2100Z. I went to my dealer for a much less expensive mower and he talked me out of a little Husqvarna zero turn that I am so thankful for today. He recommended a Hustler he had for a couple thousand more dollars and I think that is when I saw a Ferris in a crate. I was able to step up to the smallest unit available with a Vanguard engine on it for right at $10,000 in 2015. I will never look back, the ride quality and dependability of this thing is unmatched. 

Anyway just last night I was looking at RuggedMade splitters. You can get a 22-ton piece of equipment for around $3,200. Not sure what freight or other fees look like. However, the machine comes 'loaded'. It comes with a 4-way splitter attachment, log catcher table and a log lifter as well. These are features that you are easily going to pay much more for on a regular machine. I figure I am probably going to buy the 4-way splitter adapter right off the bat. Then not having the catchers is probably going to annoy me so I will buy them next. Then I will wish I had an easier way to lift the logs onto the unit. Then a machine like this comes viable. Just it is hard to justify that price tag for something I may very well use only this season, drain the gas from and let it sit for awhile.


----------



## Hermio

OM617YOTA said:


> Around here, it's not worth buying a used splitter, they're just priced too close to new. It's like Honda 2000w generators. I'm not paying $950 for a used one, when they're $1200 new.
> 
> Not worth building one, either. I priced that out a couple years back, and was up to the cost of a new splitter, just in hydraulics and the motor. That was before adding steel, wheels, or picking up a tape measure and soapstone. I was hoping to build a 240v electric powered splitter, as I only split here at home near the shop, and I REALLY didn't want to deal with maintaining another gas engine, but the cost just wasn't worth it.
> 
> If you're not in a hurry for a splitter, maybe keep your eyes open and see if a fantastic deal comes around, or if someone you know is letting one go. I'd pay $950 for a used splitter if I know it's been maintained and cared for. There's a Champion 34T nearish by going for $1200, new they're $2000, has one season of use on it. If I needed a splitter, I'd probably roll the dice on that one.
> 
> Y'all will laugh at me for this, but a few years back I bought a 5 ton electric splitter. I was skeptical, but as I said, I REALLY didn't want to deal with another gas engine, and was willing to roll the dice on $350 to try it. It split 7+ cords, and only failed to split less than 10 pieces of wood. Very nice to put in ear buds and split wood while listening to an audiobook or podcast. Also nice to be splitting wood inside the shop, while rain is being blown sideways outside. No, it's not going to handle a 4 foot round, but I try to avoid that stuff if possible too.
> 
> I also have plenty of saws, and ready access to a buddy's 37 ton splitter, any time I want it. That seems to be the best set up. Don't have a splitter yourself, have a buddy with a splitter.


I like my 20 ton electric Ramsplitter. I would like more tonnage, but honestly I only find 1 or 2 logs per year it will not split. I either noodle those or flake them with a maul. I like the low maintenance and low heat, no fumes and low noise. They are pricey; going for about $2000 these days. Though mine is a horizontal/vertical model, if you get a log stuck in vertical mode, you basically cannot get it unstuck without lifting it back to horizontal. Not easy to do!


----------



## lone wolf

Old Line State said:


> The couple of box store splitters I have looked at said not to exceed 45 MPH


And wait till you are doing 45 and hit a big hump in the road it will be airborne.


----------



## Lionsfan

OM617YOTA said:


> Oh, and as far as renting it out, not a chance. Maybe with a cash deposit that's $100 more than full current replacement cost.


Amen, and double that price if it's family.


----------



## Hexa Fox

Lionsfan said:


> Amen, and double that price if it's family.



I mean I see people renting them cheap all the time. What precaution do you take to keep people from renting it and you never seeing it again? The way people are stealing stuff right now I can't imagine it being difficult to find someone renting it during a road trip, paying them the rental fee and having it three states over and sold to someone else by the time you are suppose to return it. Not to mention like I said, people treat other peoples equipment badly to say the least. 

I would never consider renting my mowers out to people just because I know how people treat them. They are either brush hogging with them or lowering the deck down to 2.00" and throwing dirt. A new sharp set of blades dull in about two seconds. 

By the way I was a fan of Regular Show. I laughed when I first saw your profile picture.


----------



## REJ2

lone wolf said:


> And wait till you are doing 45 and hit a big hump in the road it will be airborne.


And it gets worse, many including my 37 ton NorthStar doesn’t have an axle that runs completely thru, just short pieces of rod welded to the hydraulic reservoir tank. Try a hole in the road at 45 with that.


----------



## Squareground3691

Iron & Oak 30T vert / horiz it’s a beast


----------



## Lionsfan

Hexa Fox said:


> Yeah and this is how I keep moving up models and spending more money than I want to spend. It works out sometimes like with my Ferris IS2100Z. I went to my dealer for a much less expensive mower and he talked me out of a little Husqvarna zero turn that I am so thankful for today. He recommended a Hustler he had for a couple thousand more dollars and I think that is when I saw a Ferris in a crate. I was able to step up to the smallest unit available with a Vanguard engine on it for right at $10,000 in 2015. I will never look back, the ride quality and dependability of this thing is unmatched.
> 
> Anyway just last night I was looking at RuggedMade splitters. You can get a 22-ton piece of equipment for around $3,200. Not sure what freight or other fees look like. However, the machine comes 'loaded'. It comes with a 4-way splitter attachment, log catcher table and a log lifter as well. These are features that you are easily going to pay much more for on a regular machine. I figure I am probably going to buy the 4-way splitter adapter right off the bat. Then not having the catchers is probably going to annoy me so I will buy them next. Then I will wish I had an easier way to lift the logs onto the unit. Then a machine like this comes viable. Just it is hard to justify that price tag for something I may very well use only this season, drain the gas from and let it sit for awhile.


How much wood are you going to split in a season? I do 25-35 face cord a year with a 25 ton Countyline and it's been dead nuts reliable, even with the el-cheapo Kohler that some guys seem to hate. As far as starting in the cold, I've used it down to 10* F and she started right up.


----------



## Lionsfan

Hexa Fox said:


> I mean I see people renting them cheap all the time. What precaution do you take to keep people from renting it and you never seeing it again? The way people are stealing stuff right now I can't imagine it being difficult to find someone renting it during a road trip, paying them the rental fee and having it three states over and sold to someone else by the time you are suppose to return it. Not to mention like I said, people treat other peoples equipment badly to say the least.
> 
> I would never consider renting my mowers out to people just because I know how people treat them. They are either brush hogging with them or lowering the deck down to 2.00" and throwing dirt. A new sharp set of blades dull in about two seconds.
> 
> By the way I was a fan of Regular Show. I laughed when I first saw your profile picture.


I'm 51, and STILL a fan of Regular Show. Big kid at heart I suppose.


----------



## HumBurner

Hexa Fox said:


> Tell me about it. I am only 33 but I have done a lot of splitting by hand and was not taught how to properly swing an age or hit a wedge at first. I still make costly mistakes but I learned from YouTube how to "let the tool do the work". It has definitely made it a lot easier on me. I just have some huge pieces of this cherry tree and some from my neighbor.
> 
> Anyway the question remains, would you guys ever consider renting your log splitter or offering your services to someone that needs wood split? I am sort of against renting anything because of how people treat stuff. I always thought about starting a little rental business with a zero turn that I repaired or something. However, as many of you know people just treat your equipment like crap. They will rent a zero turn you put a lot of work into so they can brush hog a log that has not been mowed in five years or worse drop the deck down so low they are mowing dirt.



Hand a generic person an axe or maul and they'll swing it from the ground up.

But, eventually, some people learn.


----------



## HumBurner

Hexa Fox said:


> I never thought of that. I just bought a hand truck from Costco. It is pretty nice. I also have at least one of the tools you are mentioning too. They have sat in my closet forever. Yeah I learned a long time ago whether you are working on cars or moving huge logs, leverage can be an excellent tool.




Rock bar/digging/pry bar with a chipper end (flat blade)


----------



## lone wolf

OM617YOTA said:


> Oh, and as far as renting it out, not a chance. Maybe with a cash deposit that's $100 more than full current replacement cost.


Last time I did that was in the 80's and it came back with a blown rod through the side of the block. If you are going to lend it make sure the person will cover the cost of repairs it they break it.


----------



## OM617YOTA

lone wolf said:


> If it dont have suspension it will hop up and down a ridiculouse amount.


Truth! My off-road utility trailer has springs, but they're 5k lb springs, on a trailer that weighs probably 600lbs empty. When empty, the axle might as well be welded to the frame, the only give is in the tires.



Hexa Fox said:


> So this was going to be my next question. Because I have seen the same thing lol. Bouncing around like that cannot be good for them. However, if you look at them they rate most of them for "highway towing up to 45MPH". So if I purchase one from my local Home Depot and make certain I max out at 45MPH will I be in good shape?



I sure wouldn't. 20mph, tops, on good roads. Crawling over driveway transitions and railroad tracks. Stop after a mile and make sure the bearings aren't trying to catch fire.

Seriously, they're meant to be towed around someone's property at riding mower speeds.


----------



## Captain Bruce

JimR said:


> No way you are going to push a heavy splitter into the back of a truck up ramps. I cheat, I have a raised wall and field that I can back up to for loading and unloading equipment in and out of my truck.


No tow option?


----------



## JimR

lone wolf said:


> Wait a minute now it depends on if its a commercial splitter or box store one that would justify the price .
> 
> How about tow it?


Good point, some are towable, others are not.


----------



## JimR

OM617YOTA said:


> Truth! My off-road utility trailer has springs, but they're 5k lb springs, on a trailer that weighs probably 600lbs empty. When empty, the axle might as well be welded to the frame, the only give is in the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> I sure wouldn't. 20mph, tops, on good roads. Crawling over driveway transitions and railroad tracks. Stop after a mile and make sure the bearings aren't trying to catch fire.
> 
> Seriously, they're meant to be towed around someone's property at riding mower speeds.


Mine is rated for 45mph and has trailer bearings on the axle.


----------



## Captain Bruce

OM617YOTA said:


> Truth! My off-road utility trailer has springs, but they're 5k lb springs, on a trailer that weighs probably 600lbs empty. When empty, the axle might as well be welded to the frame, the only give is in the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> I sure wouldn't. 20mph, tops, on good roads. Crawling over driveway transitions and railroad tracks. Stop after a mile and make sure the bearings aren't trying to catch fire.
> 
> Seriously, they're meant to be towed around someone's property at riding mower speeds.


This is spot-on advice. Bring the wood to the splitter, or put it on wheels.


----------



## JimR

Captain Bruce said:


> No tow option?


Mine is towable on the road.


----------



## VirginiaIron

JimR said:


> No way you are going to push a heavy splitter into the back of a truck up ramps. I cheat, I have a raised wall and field that I can back up to for loading and unloading equipment in and out of my truck.


Make it, take it, MOBILE! Here's a way to add a winch to your bed or trailer.


----------



## VirginiaIron

JimR said:


> Mine is towable on the road.


I've heard, and seen one youtube video where a new splitter had no grease in the bearings and/or the wheels fell off. There are all kinds of horror storys with store-boughts. I brought my Champion home on a trailer, then made sure there was grease in the wheels. I wouldn't hesitate to take my Champion an hour down the road behind the truck or the car.


----------



## VirginiaIron

lone wolf said:


>



Nice, that unit has springs too


----------



## VirginiaIron

I consider this brand one of the better splitters on the market, and even paying several thousands won't isolate you from problems. It does appear the line was damaged when the round came back @12:14. For this money, IMO, it should be more protected.
Anyway, those larger rounds are why I have a log lift.


----------



## quahog

VirginiaIron said:


> I consider this brand one of the better splitters on the market, and even paying several thousands won't isolate you from problems. It does appear the line was damaged when the round came back @12:14. For this money, IMO, it should be more protected.
> Anyway, those larger rounds are why I have a log lift.





Oof $4600 on Easton's page. You're right, those are pretty exposed. Odd because their other splitters do a much better job protecting it. Granted at a significant price increase.

I saw a video with their Axis splitter and was super impressed. log lift, conveyor, stand up work with foot pedal controls, etc. 

Only $16k https://www.eastonmadewoodsplitters...page=Eastonmade-Axis-Wood-Splitter-p297621144

I would love to find something like this, maybe without the conveyor for cheaper. The company is only a 6 hour drive from me, one of these days I may go check them out.


----------



## VirginiaIron

It is a poor design to have such a large wedge with a small pusher sled. We see most of those splits, & probably many others without straight grain, wanting to flip over. The sled should be close to the height of the wedge. 
Even though it has a detent, the operator must be aware of such things, BUT, I think this should have been foreseen by the manufacturer.


----------



## lone wolf

VirginiaIron said:


> Nice, that unit has springs too


Very costly but you can do over a cord an hour with a couple guys. Well worth it if you are in the firewood business.


----------



## lone wolf

VirginiaIron said:


> I consider this brand one of the better splitters on the market, and even paying several thousands won't isolate you from problems. It does appear the line was damaged when the round came back @12:14. For this money, IMO, it should be more protected.
> Anyway, those larger rounds are why I have a log lift.



I knew it as soon as I saw the knotty irregular pieces.


----------



## Hexa Fox

VirginiaIron said:


> Make it, take it, MOBILE! Here's a way to add a winch to your bed or trailer.




This does not even have a thousand YouTube views on it but some guy with cats has several million? Methinks something is not right with the world.


----------



## Hexa Fox

VirginiaIron said:


> It is a poor design to have such a large wedge with a small pusher sled. We see most of those splits, & probably many others without straight grain, wanting to flip over. The sled should be close to the height of the wedge.
> Even though it has a detent, the operator must be aware of such things, BUT, I think this should have been foreseen by the manufacturer.



When I was doing research on splitters I found that the design today is apparently backwards. If you look at splitters like the RuggedMade that manufacturer points out that theirs is not only more convenient but "correct". Not sure if this applies directly to what you are saying but the splitting wedge is usually at the bottom and the part actually connected to the hydraulic canister is flat. Then if you are lucky you have a table at the other end to catch logs that may need to go back through again. 

I probably will not get that one. The price is pretty steep for something I am not going to get a lot of use out of.


----------



## Hexa Fox

VirginiaIron said:


> I've heard, and seen one youtube video where a new splitter had no grease in the bearings and/or the wheels fell off. There are all kinds of horror storys with store-boughts. I brought my Champion home on a trailer, then made sure there was grease in the wheels. I wouldn't hesitate to take my Champion an hour down the road behind the truck or the car.



I realize now you were talking about a splitter similar to that of the RuggedMade. I like the fact it has a Vanguard. I remember being told back in 2015 that the first real Vanguard engine was the one I had on my machine. That is the 26HP 810cc. I think when I recently talked to me dealer he told me they are putting the Vanguard stickers on everything. That looks like a pretty sizeable engine though. It definitely looks to be a step up from the 22-ton RuggedMade.

I have been looking at the Champions for awhile too. Now to clarify you are saying that you wouldn't hesitate to tow the actual splitter, with no trailer behind your vehicle?


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> I realize now you were talking about a splitter similar to that of the RuggedMade. I like the fact it has a Vanguard. I remember being told back in 2015 that the first real Vanguard engine was the one I had on my machine. That is the 26HP 810cc. I think when I recently talked to me dealer he told me they are putting the Vanguard stickers on everything. That looks like a pretty sizeable engine though. It definitely looks to be a step up from the 22-ton RuggedMade.
> 
> I have been looking at the Champions for awhile too. Now to clarify you are saying that you wouldn't hesitate to tow the actual splitter, with no trailer behind your vehicle?


When I took my 27t Champion hubs apart, the bearings & spindle appeared the same as any other small wheel combo from the 1980's. Yes, I would tow my Champion splitter behind my car or truck without a second thought. Keep in mind, me thinks non suspension vehicles/trailers are limited to 45mph or whatever the law/manufacturer recommends


----------



## OM617YOTA

It's not just the hubs and wheels that would keep me from towing a splitter any distance or speed on the road. It's the lack of suspension, the lack of tongue length, the lack of appropriate wheel/hitch weight, and absolutely beating the crap out of the whole thing. You're basically putting the whole machine in a paint shaker when you tow it. Any line in the concrete, any crack, any rock, any pebble, all of that gets transmitted directly to the entire structure.

"Likes" on a forum aren't the be-all end-all of authority, but look how many likes the posts saying don't tow on the road are getting, vs. the posts saying go ahead, it'll be fine. Lot of people here, with a lot of wide and varied experiences, and they're saying something.


----------



## VirginiaIron

OM617YOTA said:


> It's not just the hubs and wheels that would keep me from towing a splitter any distance or speed on the road. It's the lack of suspension, the lack of tongue length, the lack of appropriate wheel/hitch weight, and absolutely beating the crap out of the whole thing. You're basically putting the whole machine in a paint shaker when you tow it. Any line in the concrete, any crack, any rock, any pebble, all of that gets transmitted directly to the entire structure.
> 
> "Likes" on a forum aren't the be-all end-all of authority, but look how many likes the posts saying don't tow on the road are getting, vs. the posts saying go ahead, it'll be fine. Lot of people here, with a lot of wide and varied experiences, and they're saying something.


"... Any line in the concrete, any crack, any rock, any pebble, all of that gets transmitted directly to the entire structure...."
Agreed! But, a base model box store unit (of which some are better quality) gets someone into the game- and its legal in most areas.


----------



## Hexa Fox

HumBurner said:


> Hand a generic person an axe or maul and they'll swing it from the ground up.
> 
> But, eventually, some people learn.



Yep I basically measure out the distance with my body and they axe, lift it straight up into the air and just let the weight of it bring it down onto the wood. When I deal with some larger pieces I might pull down on it a little. Makes a substantial difference in every way.


----------



## david newbie

VirginiaIron said:


> I have a Champion and I like it. The typical free 2 year warranty backed by HD is a plus.
> I like it because it's not screaming loud and the steel/welds seemed better. The spool and sight glass was replaced under warranty- the company was very easy to deal with.
> I haven't had a minutes problem with the engine. Starts first pull. I am told the air Filter cover may leak storm water into the carb if left uncovered.


The only thing I worry about with this champion is how exposed some of the hoses are on the side opposite the engine. Kind of wonder if a heavy piece of wood fell on it what could happen. I put a piece of plywood over that area to protect it while splitting


----------



## Hexa Fox

david newbie said:


> The only thing I worry about with this champion is how exposed some of the hoses are on the side opposite the engine. Kind of wonder if a heavy piece of wood fell on it what could happen. I put a piece of plywood over that area to protect it while splitting



So a couple of you guys have the Champion and seem to like it. Any chance you guys have gotten the Swisher 4-Way Wedge to work with it or any other wedges for that matter?


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> So a couple of you guys have the Champion and seem to like it. Any chance you guys have gotten the Swisher 4-Way Wedge to work with it or any other wedges for that matter?


I have not tried. You may be limited to width due to the wedge strippers. I've used mine to test it for integrity/warranty. Mine was originally purchased for a mod-project which has since stalled. I have to say it makes a great saw buck to keep smaller trees at a comfortable work height.


----------



## david newbie

Hexa Fox said:


> I realize now you were talking about a splitter similar to that of the RuggedMade. I like the fact it has a Vanguard. I remember being told back in 2015 that the first real Vanguard engine was the one I had on my machine. That is the 26HP 810cc. I think when I recently talked to me dealer he told me they are putting the Vanguard stickers on everything. That looks like a pretty sizeable engine though. It definitely looks to be a step up from the 22-ton RuggedMade.
> 
> I have been looking at the Champions for awhile too. Now to clarify you are saying that you wouldn't hesitate to tow the actual splitter, with no trailer behind your vehicle?


I bought a champion 27 ton recently barely used and not being a very smart guy I towed it on the freeway for 35 miles at about 55 mph. I got lucky I guess and not aware of any harm that came to the machine


----------



## nygrappler

I purchased a YardMax 28 ton half beam splitter online a couple years ago for (it was going for $1099 plus tax). Price is now $1499. I lucked out as I actually ordered the 25T which and paid $999 for, but they sent me the wrong one. Before the delivery driver offloaded, I called the company and told them it was the wrong model. They said I could keep it for what I paid. They also included a tray, which I didn’t order either.

I would recommend the half beam model as it’s lighter than the full beam but has all the same specs otherwise.

I’ve been very happy with this machine.


----------



## JimR

VirginiaIron said:


> I've heard, and seen one youtube video where a new splitter had no grease in the bearings and/or the wheels fell off. There are all kinds of horror storys with store-boughts. I brought my Champion home on a trailer, then made sure there was grease in the wheels. I wouldn't hesitate to take my Champion an hour down the road behind the truck or the car.


You can't always depend on the manufacturer to build anything right. I have a 45hp Kioti tractor that I noticed the tie rods were getting loose. They are no grease fittings on them. I removed them, popped off the rubber boots and found that there was never any grease in them at all. I drilled and tapped the back ends and installed grease fittings on them.


----------



## VirginiaIron

david newbie said:


> I bought a champion 27 ton recently barely used and not being a very smart guy I towed it on the freeway for 35 miles at about 55 mph. I got lucky I guess and not aware of any harm that came to the machin.



Here is a video from the manufacturer Rugged Made.


----------



## JRM

VirginiaIron said:


> Of all the Gin joints in the world it had to be a Champion I was referencing. Good video but the injury is at the end.



Dude put his wife on the hospital side of that job! He must not like her all that much.


----------



## Hexa Fox

So I mean, can you trust stuff like this? It says clogged fuel line. So as long as the flywheel turns that means it is not locked up right? So if it is not the fuel line then it is the carburetor? If it were you guys, would you take a closer look at this? This is local to me too.






Log in or sign up to view


See posts, photos and more on Facebook.




www.facebook.com


----------



## gggGary

Compression?
If you're at least a little handy, worse comes to worst, predator motors are cheap.


----------



## Hexa Fox

gggGary said:


> Compression?
> If you're at least a little handy, worse comes to worst, predator motors are cheap.



I have never swapped one out before but seen people do it. The worst I saw a guy have to do is take off the coupler/adapter from the crankshaft and drill new bolt holes for the Predator engine. I mean I am not a genius or anything but with a little aid from the internet I should be able to figure that out in my sleep. In case you cannot see it is a Performance Built splitter and it looks like it is in excellent condition. I may even be able to negotiate it down a little more.


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> I have never swapped one out before but seen people do it. The worst I saw a guy have to do is take off the coupler/adapter from the crankshaft and drill new bolt holes for the Predator engine. I mean I am not a genius or anything but with a little aid from the internet I should be able to figure that out in my sleep. In case you cannot see it is a Performance Built splitter and it looks like it is in excellent condition. I may even be able to negotiate it down a little more.


I love my PREDATOR, insert deep sounding predatorial snarling here....


----------



## jolj

27 top at Home Depot is $1500.00 today.
I can still split oak at 61 with a good ax, but I would not want to do a whole tree in a day.


----------



## VirginiaIron

jolj said:


> 27 top at Home Depot is $1500.00 today.
> I can still split oak at 61 with a good ax, but I would not want to do a whole tree in a day.


Did you buy one?
I see purchasing and owning a splitter this way. I split when I want and don't when I don't. I like not rushing off to the rental and picking up/dropping off to save the extra charge. Frankly, sometimes I feel like splitting and decide I'm not into it, and pack up, if I was renting I would have to continue even though I don't want to.


----------



## samhop

super spliter thats all
before and after pic size maters


----------



## VirginiaIron

samhop said:


> super spliter thats all


I love it. I would love to see a video of your operation. The supersplit is efficient due to the flywheel, but as all pushthrough designs one has to wrestle the larger pieces back to the staging area.
And, my concern is how it handles the larger ones.


----------



## Lionsfan

Hexa Fox said:


> So I mean, can you trust stuff like this? It says clogged fuel line. So as long as the flywheel turns that means it is not locked up right? So if it is not the fuel line then it is the carburetor? If it were you guys, would you take a closer look at this? This is local to me too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Log in or sign up to view
> 
> 
> See posts, photos and more on Facebook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.facebook.com


Ask him if you can dump a bit of gas in the carb or give it a puff of starting fluid and get it to fire. If he won't go for it, I'd let it go.


----------



## Hexa Fox

Lionsfan said:


> Ask him if you can dump a bit of gas in the carb or give it a puff of starting fluid and get it to fire. If he won't go for it, I'd let it go.



I already messaged him. He said it is not available. He hasn't removed it yet. Guessing it isn't a clogged fuel line lol, but guess it could be he just has not removed it yet. This is the major reason I do not want to mess around with an expensive one that is used to any extent. Morons run bad gas through them and ruin the carburetor and all kinds of other crap. Everyone raves about Ethanol free fuel but we only have one station for like 300 miles that sells it. They fill the tank and leave it in there forever and the fuel goes bad. 

So anyone that uses that fuel pretty much ruins their equipment. I started running this stuff in my STIHL equipment awhile back and couldn't get it to run at all. The dealer told me to swap to regular unleaded and use or discard on a regular basis. I have never had any problems with any equipment. Including some of my STIHL stuff that is now fifteen or more years old. 

Anyway I didn't get to respond to your other post either. I guess I am a big kid at heart too. I am currently 33 and I loved Regular Show. I was sad when I heard they were cancelling it. I have always worried about growing out of being myself. You do not hear about grown men enjoying stuff like Regular Show often. So I always wondered when I would 'grow out of it' but sure have not yet.


----------



## VirginiaIron

Lionsfan said:


> Ask him if you can dump a bit of gas in the carb or give it a puff of starting fluid and get it to fire. If he won't go for it, I'd let it go.


Sometimes that's all it is and the owner is finished with it.


----------



## Lionsfan

A lot of guys your age would spend that hard earned $1,500 on weed, clothing or ink without a second thought to their future. Decide what's practical for your needs, buy a shiny new one, and consider it a solid long term investment.


----------



## lone wolf

VirginiaIron said:


> I love it. I would love to see a video of your operation. The supersplit is efficient due to the flywheel, but as all pushthrough designs one has to wrestle the larger pieces back to the staging area.
> And, my concern is how it handles the larger ones.



That thing safe ?


----------



## VirginiaIron

Here is a hydraulic vs kinetic


----------



## jolj

VirginiaIron said:


> Did you buy one?
> I see purchasing and owning a splitter this way. I split when I want and don't when I don't. I like not rushing off to the rental and picking up/dropping off to save the extra charge. Frankly, sometimes I feel like splitting and decide I'm not into it, and pack up, if I was renting I would have to continue even though I don't want to.


No, not yet, do not have a need as of yet. But this tread did get me to look at prices.


----------



## Hexa Fox

jolj said:


> No, not yet, do not have a need as of yet. But this tread did get me to look at prices.



Yeah it is a lot to think about. In my opinion people are asking way too much for used log splitters. Why in the world would you spend $1,000 on a used splitter when you can get one new for a few hundred more bucks? Like I said, I just got a 10% off coupon from Home Depot. So definitely going to stop there and look at theirs again. It would be nice to locate a splitter with a ram/wedge that I can get a 4-way over. They seem like they can save a lot of time.

I thought about asking some of my friends if they want to go half on one and maybe consider a larger one. Just I can already see this causing some trouble. Especially after hearing how against people are here on renting them out, which by the way I do not blame one bit. I am no stranger to how people treat other peoples equipment. I think it is a big reason you constantly hear not to buy vehicles or equipment that has been rented out.

EDIT:
and as I post that statement I locate this on YouTube. This thing sure seems to have a lot of movement when it was forced up against that log though. How often do these things come flying out and end up in your brain do you think?


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> Yeah it is a lot to think about. In my opinion people are asking way too much for used log splitters. Why in the world would you spend $1,000 on a used splitter when you can get one new for a few hundred more bucks? Like I said, I just got a 10% off coupon from Home Depot. So definitely going to stop there and look at theirs again. It would be nice to locate a splitter with a ram/wedge that I can get a 4-way over. They seem like they can save a lot of time.
> 
> I thought about asking some of my friends if they want to go half on one and maybe consider a larger one. Just I can already see this causing some trouble. Especially after hearing how against people are here on renting them out, which by the way I do not blame one bit. I am no stranger to how people treat other peoples equipment. I think it is a big reason you constantly hear not to buy vehicles or equipment that has been rented out.
> 
> EDIT:
> and as I post that statement I locate this on YouTube. This thing sure seems to have a lot of movement when it was forced up against that log though. How often do these things come flying out and end up in your brain do you think?



"... How often do these things come flying out and end up in your brain do you think?..."
I don't know, but it happens. On my homemade unit, I had one round pop so fast and violently I believe it would have broken my femur if the half didn't hit my logstop in front of my leg.


----------



## Maine_woodburner

I can only tell you I got a 28 ton yardmax full beam in July and other than 1 o ring has had no issues using it to process a lot of wood.


----------



## davidprivett

if you are in a area that has rural king stores they have some on sale


----------



## Old-Feller

Hexa Fox said:


> So this is the one that I meant I was very interested in. Because it is convenient and definitely faster. Having that said, I realized you are going to lose the ability to split wood vertically, which is important to me with some of the logs I will be splitting with it right now even. So you mean you bought the one I mentioned for $500? I am sure if I offered him $1,000 he would take it but I do believe that is still a steep price for a used log splitter. The Kohler equivalent they are selling now is $2,099 on the website. He will probably sell it just because it has the Hona GC190 on it.


Going in with friends/partners is never a good idea on equipt of any kind. 

If you buy a log splitter that is too small you always regret it. I wouldn't consider anything smaller than the 28 ton and would buy the 34 ton If I could swing it. And using the vertical option on a log splitter sucks bad, It's best to add a log lift of some kind, There are some pretty good ones that use an electric winch and mount to the front of the beam.


----------



## GeeVee

Trailering it? ON a trailer yes, but not towing it on road. My splitter has the pump mounted so low I'm not chancing it.


----------



## OM617YOTA

Old-Feller said:


> Going in with friends/partners is never a good idea on equipt of any kind.
> 
> If you buy a log splitter that is too small you always regret it. I wouldn't consider anything smaller than the 28 ton and would buy the 34 ton If I could swing it. And using the vertical option on a log splitter sucks bad, It's best to add a log lift of some kind, There are some pretty good ones that use an electric winch and mount to the front of the beam.



Definitely wouldn't go in with friends on anything like this. Lots of drama can happen that'll make you wish you'd just forked over the other half of the bill and made it all go away.

I really like the vertical option. In the right situation, it's absolutely wonderful to have. Roll a big round under it, hit the lever, and stand back as best you can until it pops. If I was getting a log splitter, vertical flip would be on the "must have" list.


----------



## OM617YOTA

I really like my little electric splitter. It won't make Tim Allen grunt in approval, but it gets the job done, for less than 1/10th the hassle. No worries about towing, just toss it in the trunk of your car if you want.


----------



## Hexa Fox

OM617YOTA said:


> Definitely wouldn't go in with friends on anything like this. Lots of drama can happen that'll make you wish you'd just forked over the other half of the bill and made it all go away.
> 
> I really like the vertical option. In the right situation, it's absolutely wonderful to have. Roll a big round under it, hit the lever, and stand back as best you can until it pops. If I was getting a log splitter, vertical flip would be on the "must have" list.



Exactly. This is what turned me off from the Harbor Freight two way splitter. Like I said super cool machine that would speed up splitting infinitely but the major drawback is that you would have to lug huge pieces on it or purchase another piece of equipment to do so. I was looking into the GorillaBac system. Just another expense right out of the gate does not seem logical.


----------



## VirginiaIron

You could always purchase or build something like this









Split Second 45-0507 Log Splitter Log Lift


The Split Second Log Splitter Log Lift 45-0507 has been discontinued. Check out Expert's recommended alternatives for another top log splitter accessory.




www.logsplittersdirect.com


----------



## Hexa Fox

davidprivett said:


> if you are in a area that has rural king stores they have some on sale



They look like they have some reasonable prices. I do have one semi-local to me. I tried calling them to check price and availability but no answer. Guess I will try again tomorrow. I have a Tractor Supply and Home Depot that are very local to me so I am going to do some looking around there next time I am in town.


----------



## Bubster

I misspoke many post back. My splitter has the Honda GC 190. My local dealer has several Oregon splitters in stock from 25-33 ton. Ranging from $1400- 2300. He could load one on the back of a pick up if you make a 3 hour drive. If I am not mistaken, Oregon and Speeco are almost one in the same. As for towing a splitter, I tow mine a lot but never over 40 mph and never more than about 15 miles. One of the worst things about the GC 190 engine is there is no fuel shut off valve, so you always want to check your oil after a tow,make sure no gas " got through the float" and into the crankcase.


----------



## lone wolf

Bubster said:


> I misspoke many post back. My splitter has the Honda GC 190. My local dealer has several Oregon splitters in stock from 25-33 ton. Ranging from $1400- 2300. He could load one on the back of a pick up if you make a 3 hour drive. If I am not mistaken, Oregon and Speeco are almost one in the same. As for towing a splitter, I tow mine a lot but never over 40 mph and never more than about 15 miles. One of the worst things about the GC 190 engine is there is no fuel shut off valve, so you always want to check your oil after a tow,make sure no gas " got through the float" and into the crankcase.


Add the shut off i suppose. I noticed when you tow them they do tend to flood.


----------



## Bubster

lone wolf said:


> Add the shut off i suppose. I noticed when you tow them they do tend to flood.


I never know when I will be splitting again,so I usually just run my splitter out of gas when I can. The Honda GX 390 on my post driver does have a fuel shut off . I once forgot to close it and took off down the road,had almost a half gallon of gas in the oil when I got where I was going.But that was 60 mph and around 50 miles. Fuel shut off or petcock ( hate using that word) should be pretty cheap depending on the fuel line routing.


----------



## lone wolf

Bubster said:


> I never know when I will be splitting again,so I usually just run my splitter out of gas when I can. The Honda GX 390 on my post driver does have a fuel shut off . I once forgot to close it and took off down the road,had almost a half gallon of gas in the oil when I got where I was going.But that was 60 mph and around 50 miles. Fuel shut off or petcock ( hate using that word) should be pretty cheap depending on the fuel line routing.


I'm thinking in a pinch a pair of Hemostats clamped to the line.


----------



## Old-Feller

Old-Feller said:


> Going in with friends/partners is never a good idea on equipt of any kind.
> 
> If you buy a log splitter that is too small you always regret it. I wouldn't consider anything smaller than the 28 ton and would buy the 34 ton If I could swing it. And using the vertical option on a log splitter sucks bad, It's best to add a log lift of some kind, There are some pretty good ones that use an electric winch and mount to the front of the beam.


I have a bad back, A long time ago I had a store bought splitter with the vertical option, It about Killed me! Anyway I built my own with a log lift. Here is a pic with my 82 year old Dad, I took my splitter down the mountain to split up a tree they removed, The wood was wet and stringy sitting just a few days. Utah has 80mph speed limit on the freeway and it tows just fine. All Log splitters I have seen at the box stores have a 45mph speed limit. Even if I did buy a box store splitter, I would weld on a trailer axle so it could be towed with out worry and get the stupid thing up off the ground, These companies that make log splitters and pressure washers act like we live in a world full of midgets!

This splitters got well over 50 cords on it and it it's only 3 or 4 years old.


----------



## samhop

@VirginiaIron​havent had any luck posting video. the SS uses a sharp knife not a wedge so it cuts as much as it splits. i added 3" to the top of the knife so i rarely have to roll the wood. with a table if the wood is not completely cut all you need to do isroll the wood back so its standing on the round end that jest got pushed, hit it again and if there still some strings roll it again. you can see the size of the wood i split so i still have to roll back sometimes even with the higher knife. i made the push plate bigger and went full mental on power. the belt systom is app. 16:1 and the extra power works great the engine jest dogs down and the 16:1 jest push right through most of the stuff that used to take more than one hit. my hydro splitter has not been used since i got the ss going. my splitter was an old one that needed new push arm and drive gear i got it for free put some work into it and its the best splitter i have ever used. heat with wood only no backup anything. i would buy a new SS if i needed a splitter befor using hydro.


----------



## Bubster

samhop said:


> @VirginiaIron​havent had any luck posting video. the SS uses a sharp knife not a wedge so it cuts as much as it splits. i added 3" to the top of the knife so i rarely have to roll the wood. with a table if the wood is not completely cut all you need to do isroll the wood back so its standing on the round end that jest got pushed, hit it again and if there still some strings roll it again. you can see the size of the wood i split so i still have to roll back sometimes even with the higher knife. i made the push plate bigger and went full mental on power. the belt systom is app. 16:1 and the extra power works great the engine jest dogs down and the 16:1 jest push right through most of the stuff that used to take more than one hit. my hydro splitter has not been used since i got the ss going. my splitter was an old one that needed new push arm and drive gear i got it for free put some work into it and its the best splitter i have ever used. heat with wood only no backup anything. i would buy a new SS if i needed a splitter befor using hydro.


What about knots with a kinetic splitter. My whole purpose for buying a splitter was the really gnarly stuff. Straight grained wood I use a maul or poll axe. I do like the speed of the kinetic splitter, but I am still faster than it is with a maul.


----------



## Hermio

Hexa Fox said:


> Yeah it is a lot to think about. In my opinion people are asking way too much for used log splitters. Why in the world would you spend $1,000 on a used splitter when you can get one new for a few hundred more bucks? Like I said, I just got a 10% off coupon from Home Depot. So definitely going to stop there and look at theirs again. It would be nice to locate a splitter with a ram/wedge that I can get a 4-way over. They seem like they can save a lot of time.
> 
> I thought about asking some of my friends if they want to go half on one and maybe consider a larger one. Just I can already see this causing some trouble. Especially after hearing how against people are here on renting them out, which by the way I do not blame one bit. I am no stranger to how people treat other peoples equipment. I think it is a big reason you constantly hear not to buy vehicles or equipment that has been rented out.
> 
> EDIT:
> and as I post that statement I locate this on YouTube. This thing sure seems to have a lot of movement when it was forced up against that log though. How often do these things come flying out and end up in your brain do you think?



IMHO, a 4-way splitting wedge is pretty much useless unless it can be shifted up or down to match the center of the log. I bought one as an add-on, and it was set up to work well with about an 8-10" log diameter. It did not save any time when splitting larger rounds, as I would have to keep repositioning the log to avoid tiny scraps at the end. I don't use it anymore. I guess I could use it as a door stop.


----------



## Hexa Fox

Hermio said:


> IMHO, a 4-way splitting wedge is pretty much useless unless it can be shifted up or down to match the center of the log. I bought one as an add-on, and it was set up to work well with about an 8-10" log diameter. It did not save any time when splitting larger rounds, as I would have to keep repositioning the log to avoid tiny scraps at the end. I don't use it anymore. I guess I could use it as a door stop.



Yeah I see people welding them to their log splitters and wonder what they are thinking. So I was thinking it may be perfect for certain logs or if you have someone helping you. So one of you can position the log and the other can use the hydro lever. I thought about what you said already and it makes total sense. If you plan to use it a lot you are probably going to end up with a lot of kindling or undesirable pieces of wood. Having that said, I like the ones that have the little chain 'lanyard' thing that you can put around the cylinder arm too. Methinks it would significantly reduce the need for brain surgery. 

Okay so made a lot of progress today. 

1.) Talked to Rural King and my local one does not have any splitters on sale right now. They said all you can do is call back and check. 

2.) I went to Tractor Supply today and someone brought back an Oregon 30 Ton and they reduced the price $200 to $1,600. I talked to them about it and told them I wanted to do more research on the Kohler. It is an SH series and I was told long ago to not screw with modern Kohler unless it is in the Command Series. Also they could not get the story straight on the splitter either. The manager said it has never been used but 100% has. You can see the stains from it splitting wood. He was a nice guy but insisted it never had fuel in it. I ensured him I already checked and it was full of fuel. He said the guy brought it back because he put the log catcher on the wrong side and broke the welds off of it. They said they may consider taking a little less for it. I love Oregon, I really do. I think you guys already know they make awesome aftermarket commercial chainsaw chains, bars and even lawn mower blades. However, the quality of this wood splitter is questionable.

3.) Also stopped by Home Depot and their Champions seem to be in the lead. The Oregon has a protruding neck and the hydraulic cap is plastic whereas the Champion is not protruding and metal like all the others I have seen. They have a 27 Ton for $1,499 or the 34 Ton for $1,899. They do simply put look like more quality machines. The Oregon looks like it may be a little heavier. I also heard you guys saying that their engines are cloned Honda's? The 27 Ton out front clearly has some kind of residue on it. It is like a brown film and definitely oily. I am not certain if it is hydraulic fluid or what. It says they have others in stock. 

By the way, thanks for all the awesome feedback. You guys have given me a lot information. As always any thoughts on anything I wrote here is much appreciated.


----------



## Hexa Fox

Additionally, this is the wedge I found that should work with the Champions. So if you follow the link and read the last statement in the description it says "manufacturer recommends for use with softwoods only". So my thought process on that is... wtf? I want to try it so bad but you know it is going to have to be modified when it that is there. 






Eco Implements LLC | Huskee S401443TSC 35t Slip On 4 Way Wedge







ecoimplements.com


----------



## JoshNY

I would not worry at all about the Champion engine. They actually make their own engines, they are clones of the Honda gx series. They are regarded in the small engine forums as the best of the clones.
I have had a couple of their generators, one being over 10 years old and it's never gave me a lick of trouble. Always starts in 1 or 2 pulls. 

Honestly I've been hearing mostly good things about the Kohler splitter engines of recent years. They look pretty similar to the Honda clones.


----------



## sean donato

Not going to lie, I mostly skimmed through the thread. 
Had a really good laugh with the kohler engine bashing. The issues they had were years ago now with the courage series engine. Biggest issue they have lately is with the big blocks sucking oil. Most the smaller twins and singles are pretty good to go any more. I wouldn't pass up a splitter just because of a kohler engine. 

Clone engines 80% of the time run just as good as the Honda they knocked off. Added bonus is honda parts typically fit.

Best advice is get a log lift or plan to add one. I'm a little older then you and have worked heavy duty diesel most my life untill recently. Back issues suck... vertical splitting logs still needs lots of man handling. Log lift just needs you to roll the log onto it.

4 and 6 way hydraulic wedges are great too. You won't get that option with home depot or tsc splitters. The bolt one 4 way wedges are a bad joke. Tried that a few times and just didn't care for it. Too much handling with bigger rounds. I get too much big and ugly stuff for a fixed 4 way. 

I ended up building my own splitter. The cylinder, pump, and valves I had to buy. Had an engine here for it. Scrounge up the beam and had moat the steel laying around. Ended up having under $1k in it.


----------



## GrizG

VirginiaIron said:


> I consider this brand one of the better splitters on the market, and even paying several thousands won't isolate you from problems. It does appear the line was damaged when the round came back @12:14. For this money, IMO, it should be more protected.
> Anyway, those larger rounds are why I have a log lift.



Joe is good at "testing" things... I wouldn't use him as a barometer for the durability or performance of anything!


----------



## Hexa Fox

sean donato said:


> Not going to lie, I mostly skimmed through the thread.
> Had a really good laugh with the kohler engine bashing. The issues they had were years ago now with the courage series engine. Biggest issue they have lately is with the big blocks sucking oil. Most the smaller twins and singles are pretty good to go any more. I wouldn't pass up a splitter just because of a kohler engine.
> 
> Clone engines 80% of the time run just as good as the Honda they knocked off. Added bonus is honda parts typically fit.
> 
> Best advice is get a log lift or plan to add one. I'm a little older then you and have worked heavy duty diesel most my life untill recently. Back issues suck... vertical splitting logs still needs lots of man handling. Log lift just needs you to roll the log onto it.
> 
> 4 and 6 way hydraulic wedges are great too. You won't get that option with home depot or tsc splitters. The bolt one 4 way wedges are a bad joke. Tried that a few times and just didn't care for it. Too much handling with bigger rounds. I get too much big and ugly stuff for a fixed 4 way.
> 
> I ended up building my own splitter. The cylinder, pump, and valves I had to buy. Had an engine here for it. Scrounge up the beam and had moat the steel laying around. Ended up having under $1k in it.



Yep the Courage was the one I heard to watch out for. I wish I would have heard that before I bought my MTD with one of those engines though. I cannot complain though that machine is still running strong. I know it was going around that they were doing a lot of questionable things with engines around that time. Having that said, all manufacturers do it. Some people love their Briggs engines. I was told the same thing about Briggs that I was about Kohler, only go for the Vanguard engines. When you are spending that kind of money on a zero turn, you want a strong engine to back it up. 

I would have never passed up the Oregon just because of the Kohler. They just 'concern' me, which you have relieved a great deal. Just go to Tractor Supply, people seem much happier with the County Lines than they do the Oregon, which alone is concerning. I really did not like the location of that hydraulic cap either. People say the drawback of the Champions is having that stuff (lines, filter etc) exposed on the side you are working on. However, I can see a log coming off the splitter and hitting that protruding cap and causing a nightmare. 

Yep I am 33 and have a pretty roughed up lower back already. Anyway, I may go with a Champion and try that Speeco slip over 4 way. It looks like it can be removed in seconds when you are doing larger rounds. I am also leaning toward the 27 Ton because it is about 120lbs lighter and have been reading that it has plenty of power, faster cycle time and will obviously be a little easier to move around. 

I have a Toro snow blower that was probably the biggest regret of my life. It was exactly $2,000 and the engine was "Toro" branded. I heard that it was a Honda clone and very reliable. I had to replace the carburetor on like the second or third season of owning it. I put Star Tron in it and decided to leave fuel in it which I guess was my mistake. Anyway I do dislike this thing. It is heavy as a rock, bottoms out in a foot of snow and is just all around difficult. I also hurt myself pretty bad one year trying to use my bodyweight to push it forward, which to be fair was operator error.


----------



## GrizG

Hexa Fox said:


> Yeah I see people welding them to their log splitters and wonder what they are thinking. So I was thinking it may be perfect for certain logs or if you have someone helping you. So one of you can position the log and the other can use the hydro lever. I thought about what you said already and it makes total sense. If you plan to use it a lot you are probably going to end up with a lot of kindling or undesirable pieces of wood. Having that said, I like the ones that have the little chain 'lanyard' thing that you can put around the cylinder arm too. Methinks it would significantly reduce the need for brain surgery.
> 
> Okay so made a lot of progress today.
> 
> 1.) Talked to Rural King and my local one does not have any splitters on sale right now. They said all you can do is call back and check.
> 
> 2.) I went to Tractor Supply today and someone brought back an Oregon 30 Ton and they reduced the price $200 to $1,600. I talked to them about it and told them I wanted to do more research on the Kohler. It is an SH series and I was told long ago to not screw with modern Kohler unless it is in the Command Series. Also they could not get the story straight on the splitter either. The manager said it has never been used but 100% has. You can see the stains from it splitting wood. He was a nice guy but insisted it never had fuel in it. I ensured him I already checked and it was full of fuel. He said the guy brought it back because he put the log catcher on the wrong side and broke the welds off of it. They said they may consider taking a little less for it. I love Oregon, I really do. I think you guys already know they make awesome aftermarket commercial chainsaw chains, bars and even lawn mower blades. However, the quality of this wood splitter is questionable.
> 
> 3.) Also stopped by Home Depot and their Champions seem to be in the lead. The Oregon has a protruding neck and the hydraulic cap is plastic whereas the Champion is not protruding and metal like all the others I have seen. They have a 27 Ton for $1,499 or the 34 Ton for $1,899. They do simply put look like more quality machines. The Oregon looks like it may be a little heavier. I also heard you guys saying that their engines are cloned Honda's? The 27 Ton out front clearly has some kind of residue on it. It is like a brown film and definitely oily. I am not certain if it is hydraulic fluid or what. It says they have others in stock.
> 
> By the way, thanks for all the awesome feedback. You guys have given me a lot information. As always any thoughts on anything I wrote here is much appreciated.


Those Oregon splitters are the same as the SpeeCo splitters... rebranded. I've got a 35 ton SpeeCo Split Master.


----------



## StihlsawuserMS361

My Two cents:
Don't rule out Tractor Supply Splitters (County Line). I bought their 25ton splitter last May. Back then it was slim pickings on everything. I looked at Lowes and Home Depot offerings also. I chose the County Line / Tractor Supply version over the Champion offering. To me, the Tractor Supply was a bit heavier duty, stronger beam, and its' splitting height is taller than the Champion. The Champion @ HD on display was rusting at the welds....not a big deal, but to me reflected on quality. The Tractor Supply's welds even looked stronger and more complete. (Yes, they are mostly Chinese anymore). 
Mine has the Kohler SH Series engine, so far so good. Changed the engine oil @ 5 hours, some expected metal break in particles etc. Just changed it again yesterday, oil [email protected] less than 100 total hours. Also, as recommended, changed the hydraulic oil filter @ 25 hours. I cut it open, no metal particles inside.
This splitter has split everything thrown at it with ease. I believe I paid $1150, and now they are $1550. I made my own log catcher as the store bought wasn't big / strong / quality enough. 
Whichever you do purchase, look how the unit is stored on their lot. It's all over the internet that these engines will take in rainwater if not covered, rusting the internals of the motor, carb and gas tank. Not a good way to start out. I was lucky, as mine was crated and wrapped.
Hope this helps.


----------



## Hexa Fox

StihlsawuserMS361 said:


> My Two cents:
> Don't rule out Tractor Supply Splitters (County Line). I bought their 25ton splitter last May. Back then it was slim pickings on everything. I looked at Lowes and Home Depot offerings also. I chose the County Line / Tractor Supply version over the Champion offering. To me, the Tractor Supply was a bit heavier duty, stronger beam, and its' splitting height is taller than the Champion. The Champion @ HD on display was rusting at the welds....not a big deal, but to me reflected on quality. The Tractor Supply's welds even looked stronger and more complete. (Yes, they are mostly Chinese anymore).
> Mine has the Kohler SH Series engine, so far so good. Changed the engine oil @ 5 hours, some expected metal break in particles etc. Just changed it again yesterday, oil [email protected] less than 100 total hours. Also, as recommended, changed the hydraulic oil filter @ 25 hours. I cut it open, no metal particles inside.
> This splitter has split everything thrown at it with ease. I believe I paid $1150, and now they are $1550. I made my own log catcher as the store bought wasn't big / strong / quality enough.
> Whichever you do purchase, look how the unit is stored on their lot. It's all over the internet that these engines will take in rainwater if not covered, rusting the internals of the motor, carb and gas tank. Not a good way to start out. I was lucky, as mine was crated and wrapped.
> Hope this helps.



Yeah I was hoping to see County Line at Tractor Supply but they only had the Oregons.


----------



## Old-Feller

I did a lot of research on the chinese honda clones and from what I found the "Lifan" is the very best of them and they have better USA support too should you need it. I have been very impressed with the 13 HP Lifan I have on my splitter, It starts immediately and chugs all day, I have had the throttle on half way since I have owned it and I have never met a log it couldn't split yet. The engine does not use oil or smoke and is a pretty smooth runner for a single cylinder engine, It also charges my battery very well and I can lift a lot of logs using the winch without running the battery down, And it will start again if I shut it off even after lifting quite a few logs, I did use an automotive battery though. I think most of the chinese engines are pretty good now, I have a Kohler on my pressure washer and it's chinese, Starts right up and runs good too.


----------



## samhop

Bubster said:


> What about knots with a kinetic splitter. My whole purpose for buying a splitter was the really gnarly stuff. Straight grained wood I use a maul or poll axe. I do like the speed of the kinetic splitter, but I am still faster than it is with a maul.


go back and look at the stuff i split every thing on that table went through ss. nothing got noodeld with a saw. and thatswith the smaller upgrade power. you can see the stuff in the forground that was to wanky to stack it went on top of the load and ended up in the stove also.


----------



## Hexa Fox

I have always wanted a tractor, skid or something with some kind of frame I could use to move around the property. My father believed in not stacking wood around our foundation. So carrying in wood is cumbersome to say the least. I would love to have something like in that picture that I could temporarily put next to our basement door. 

I have been looking at Ventrac's for years but they have done nothing but raised the price of them. Especially since Toro bought them out. What turns me off about them is the machines try to do everything and they do lack a good bit in a lot of the stuff they try to do. Like lifting capacity for instance maxes out at 500lbs and I heard that includes the bucket and pallet forks. Still may be able to do what I want to do with it though. 

I ordered a 4 way slid over wedge several days ago and found out it is coming from Florida and has not actually shipped out yet. So I might be waiting awhile on that and that is okay. I was going to look around a little more this weekend but cannot now because of this hurricane coming through.


----------



## jolj

Told the wife I wanted a wood splitter for Christmas, she went on Fb & found one for $200.00
I said it is manual & I can cut more with an ax.


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> I have always wanted a tractor, skid or something with some kind of frame I could use to move around the property. My father believed in not stacking wood around our foundation. So carrying in wood is cumbersome to say the least. I would love to have something like in that picture that I could temporarily put next to our basement door.
> 
> I have been looking at Ventrac's for years but they have done nothing but raised the price of them. Especially since Toro bought them out. What turns me off about them is the machines try to do everything and they do lack a good bit in a lot of the stuff they try to do. Like lifting capacity for instance maxes out at 500lbs and I heard that includes the bucket and pallet forks. Still may be able to do what I want to do with it though.
> 
> I ordered a 4 way slid over wedge several days ago and found out it is coming from Florida and has not actually shipped out yet. So I might be waiting awhile on that and that is okay. I was going to look around a little more this weekend but cannot now because of this hurricane coming through.


"...What turns me off about them is the machines try to do everything and they do lack a good bit in a lot of the stuff they try to do...."
Size is determined by need and better than doing it by hand. Some people specialize in small equipment landscaping and do well. A mouse will take the whole slice of cheese one bite at a time.


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## lone wolf

VirginiaIron said:


> "...What turns me off about them is the machines try to do everything and they do lack a good bit in a lot of the stuff they try to do...."
> Size is determined by need and better than doing it by hand. Some people specialize in small equipment landscaping and do well. A mouse will take the whole slice of cheese one bite at a time.


----------



## Hexa Fox

VirginiaIron said:


> "...What turns me off about them is the machines try to do everything and they do lack a good bit in a lot of the stuff they try to do...."
> Size is determined by need and better than doing it by hand. Some people specialize in small equipment landscaping and do well. A mouse will take the whole slice of cheese one bite at a time.



That is the exact reason they were invented. Their size is nearly perfect for their original purpose which is mowing on steep banks. They can mow hillsides better and much faster than a team with string trimmers. Having that said, they are still excellent machines for this but you will easily spend $50,000 for the tractor and a couple attachments which is ridiculous if you ask me. I realize that you are paying for the science and quality behind the machine but that is still a steep price tag.

I have seen the power buckets move firewood before but that is not really going to help me personally unless I was processing a lot of it. It would be awesome to have something that I can detach from a skid or tractor (like a large FEL) and leave near my basement door when I get too lazy to carry wood in. It would also make carrying in wood a lot easier too. I forget what it is called but our basement is halfway into the ground so the steps outside have a concrete walkway coming down to the door. I could easily drop something like that off there and open my door and have access to firewood at waist/shoulder height. You can tell I have been thinking about this for awhile huh?


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> That is the exact reason they were invented. Their size is nearly perfect for their original purpose which is mowing on steep banks. They can mow hillsides better and much faster than a team with string trimmers. Having that said, they are still excellent machines for this but you will easily spend $50,000 for the tractor and a couple attachments which is ridiculous if you ask me. I realize that you are paying for the science and quality behind the machine but that is still a steep price tag.
> 
> I have seen the power buckets move firewood before but that is not really going to help me personally unless I was processing a lot of it. It would be awesome to have something that I can detach from a skid or tractor (like a large FEL) and leave near my basement door when I get too lazy to carry wood in. It would also make carrying in wood a lot easier too. I forget what it is called but our basement is halfway into the ground so the steps outside have a concrete walkway coming down to the door. I could easily drop something like that off there and open my door and have access to firewood at waist/shoulder height. You can tell I have been thinking about this for awhile huh?


For the cost a small loader and hoe is only about $25k new and $7k or more if used.




__





lynchburg for sale "loader" - craigslist


lynchburg for sale "loader" - craigslist



lynchburg.craigslist.org


----------



## quahog

VirginiaIron said:


> For the cost a small loader and hoe is only about $25k new and $7k or more if used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lynchburg for sale "loader" - craigslist
> 
> 
> lynchburg for sale "loader" - craigslist
> 
> 
> 
> lynchburg.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 1021236



I haven't shopped used equipment, but that actually doesn't look like a horrible price for one of their TLBs with what should be an engine with no emissions requirements.

*I'm about eight months out from walking into a Kubota dealer and telling him to spend my money with the biggest I'll go is an L47.


----------



## VirginiaIron

quahog said:


> I haven't shopped used equipment, but that actually doesn't look like a horrible price for one of their TLBs with what should be an engine with no emissions requirements.
> 
> *I'm about eight months out from walking into a Kubota dealer and telling him to spend my money with the biggest I'll go is an L47.


I know, and at 740 hours it's still a baby


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## Fabb

I do a tree with this device faster then many slow hydraulic splitters. Real men use their muscles as well  (this is not me btw, I don't have boobs; so even tough women use it!)


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## blades

brand name bilco doors


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## sean donato

Hexa Fox said:


> Yep the Courage was the one I heard to watch out for. I wish I would have heard that before I bought my MTD with one of those engines though. I cannot complain though that machine is still running strong. I know it was going around that they were doing a lot of questionable things with engines around that time. Having that said, all manufacturers do it. Some people love their Briggs engines. I was told the same thing about Briggs that I was about Kohler, only go for the Vanguard engines. When you are spending that kind of money on a zero turn, you want a strong engine to back it up.
> 
> I would have never passed up the Oregon just because of the Kohler. They just 'concern' me, which you have relieved a great deal. Just go to Tractor Supply, people seem much happier with the County Lines than they do the Oregon, which alone is concerning. I really did not like the location of that hydraulic cap either. People say the drawback of the Champions is having that stuff (lines, filter etc) exposed on the side you are working on. However, I can see a log coming off the splitter and hitting that protruding cap and causing a nightmare.
> 
> Yep I am 33 and have a pretty roughed up lower back already. Anyway, I may go with a Champion and try that Speeco slip over 4 way. It looks like it can be removed in seconds when you are doing larger rounds. I am also leaning toward the 27 Ton because it is about 120lbs lighter and have been reading that it has plenty of power, faster cycle time and will obviously be a little easier to move around.
> 
> I have a Toro snow blower that was probably the biggest regret of my life. It was exactly $2,000 and the engine was "Toro" branded. I heard that it was a Honda clone and very reliable. I had to replace the carburetor on like the second or third season of owning it. I put Star Tron in it and decided to leave fuel in it which I guess was my mistake. Anyway I do dislike this thing. It is heavy as a rock, bottoms out in a foot of snow and is just all around difficult. I also hurt myself pretty bad one year trying to use my bodyweight to push it forward, which to be fair was operator error.


All the engine issues happened when they stopped selling commercial engines and started producing "home owner" engines. Even Honda has a cheap line. I'll never really understand the hate for Briggs they delivered what people wanted, cheap throw away engines. Kohler jumped on that band wagon as did Honda. Worked out better for Honda then kohler..


----------



## quahog

Not that I plan on buying a Craftsman, this is another example that can be found at the big box stores. I was at Lowes earlier today and strolled over to look at their 27 tons for $1599.

Apologize for the cut off pic of the specs-I had to chase down some of my stuff that was blowing away.

Kohler 195cc engine
Splitter is made by "YTL International". Never heard of them, but I bet they make a bunch of stuff for other companies to slap stickers on.


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## Hexa Fox

sean donato said:


> All the engine issues happened when they stopped selling commercial engines and started producing "home owner" engines. Even Honda has a cheap line. I'll never really understand the hate for Briggs they delivered what people wanted, cheap throw away engines. Kohler jumped on that band wagon as did Honda. Worked out better for Honda then kohler..



Agreed the same can be said for the transaxles on a lot of these machines as well. A lot of the newer mowers have a Tuff Torq or Hydro Gear system that is not meant to be serviced. Nothing screams throw away unit when you realize those systems are completely sealed from the factory. Now I personally do not know the specifics but I remember reading and seeing the bad publicity that the Kohlers and Briggs engines got. I heard the Commercial Turf on the Briggs line was not bad but if you were willing to pay a little more you could get a Vanguard and that is the one that people were complimenting left and right. 

I heard nothing but good things about Kawasaki engines and came to the conclusion they would be a 'good bet' if I could not locate something else. I heard they were gas hogs though. Anyway, I am very happy that I decided to go with the Vanguard on my Ferris. I have no regrets on this engine so far. I am not putting the hours on the machine that a commercial company would so I only change the oil once a year and the hydro fluid once every three years. It seems to be working out well so far. 

Anyway I was looking at the County Line splitters and for $400-$500 more you can step up to a 30 Ton Kohler Command. Something to think about.


----------



## Old-Feller

VirginiaIron said:


> For the cost a small loader and hoe is only about $25k new and $7k or more if used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lynchburg for sale "loader" - craigslist
> 
> 
> lynchburg for sale "loader" - craigslist
> 
> 
> 
> lynchburg.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 1021236


I can tell you this ad here is a scam, That yard is in Southern California.


quahog said:


> Not that I plan on buying a Craftsman, this is another example that can be found at the big box stores. I was at Lowes earlier today and strolled over to look at their 27 tons for $1599.
> 
> Apologize for the cut off pic of the specs-I had to chase down some of my stuff that was blowing away.
> 
> Kohler 195cc engine
> Splitter is made by "YTL International". Never heard of them, but I bet they make a bunch of stuff for other companies to slap stickers on.
> 
> 
> View attachment 1021503
> View attachment 1021504


I have the Kohler SH Series on my pressure washer, It's a Chicom engine but it starts right up everytime, I have had it about 4 years, But truthfully, I might only use it 3 or 4 times a year. This engine is not even close to the "Command" Line of engines, At least the Command engines I have had in the past.


----------



## Hexa Fox

Old-Feller said:


> I can tell you this ad here is a scam, That yard is in Southern California.
> 
> I have the Kohler SH Series on my pressure washer, It's a Chicom engine but it starts right up everytime, I have had it about 4 years, But truthfully, I might only use it 3 or 4 times a year. This engine is not even close to the "Command" Line of engines, At least the Command engines I have had in the past.



Yeah engines change, manufacturers do stuff to make money. I heard that Briggs is now putting the Vanguard sticker on a lot of their China engines, which is very disheartening if true. 

So what you are saying is that it may be worth looking into the $2,000 splitter to get the Kohler Command engine? I did not want to spend this on a splitter but I will consider it to get a good one. 

This has been a ridiculously awesome thread for me guys. I have learned a lot. I never thought I would even be considering a Kohler engine at the end of this lol. You live and you learn I guess. 

So my next question would be, how do you guys store equipment that is not used regularly or possibly even a year or two at a time? Take for example a snow blower or log splitter that may get no use in a year? If you have a fuel cut off do you treat the fuel in the tank and let the carburetor run out of fuel? Do you fill your tanks all the way to the neck and add fuel treatment? Do you attempt to drain the gas completely? I would love to have feedback on this.

Like I said the dealer I bought my Ferris from is very knowledgeable. Something that upset me is when I was going around looking at zeros my first choice was Scag, but all the ones around me (both local and not local) seemed more like used cars salesmen. I realize that this is probably has nothing to do with Scag or Ferris but that I just got unlucky. Anyway the Ferris dealer was the first guy that knew more than me about the machines he was trying to sell me. 

The point to mentioning this is he told me the best way to store the Ferris was to fill the tanks as far as I could get them and treat them with a fuel treatment that I trust. Then run the machine a little so treated fuel is in the lines and carburetor/fuel injectors and then store it. I started doing this years ago and never had a problem getting the mower started in the Spring. 

Having this said, do you treat engines that may sit longer in the same fashion? So if I get a wood splitter and cannot see myself using it for a year after all this wood is split. Should I drain all the gas from the tank and let the engine run dry?


----------



## Old-Feller

Hexa Fox said:


> Yeah engines change, manufacturers do stuff to make money. I heard that Briggs is now putting the Vanguard sticker on a lot of their China engines, which is very disheartening if true.
> 
> So what you are saying is that it may be worth looking into the $2,000 splitter to get the Kohler Command engine? I did not want to spend this on a splitter but I will consider it to get a good one.
> 
> This has been a ridiculously awesome thread for me guys. I have learned a lot. I never thought I would even be considering a Kohler engine at the end of this lol. You live and you learn I guess.
> 
> So my next question would be, how do you guys store equipment that is not used regularly or possibly even a year or two at a time? Take for example a snow blower or log splitter that may get no use in a year? If you have a fuel cut off do you treat the fuel in the tank and let the carburetor run out of fuel? Do you fill your tanks all the way to the neck and add fuel treatment? Do you attempt to drain the gas completely? I would love to have feedback on this.
> 
> Like I said the dealer I bought my Ferris from is very knowledgeable. Something that upset me is when I was going around looking at zeros my first choice was Scag, but all the ones around me (both local and not local) seemed more like used cars salesmen. I realize that this is probably has nothing to do with Scag or Ferris but that I just got unlucky. Anyway the Ferris dealer was the first guy that knew more than me about the machines he was trying to sell me.
> 
> The point to mentioning this is he told me the best way to store the Ferris was to fill the tanks as far as I could get them and treat them with a fuel treatment that I trust. Then run the machine a little so treated fuel is in the lines and carburetor/fuel injectors and then store it. I started doing this years ago and never had a problem getting the mower started in the Spring.
> 
> Having this said, do you treat engines that may sit longer in the same fashion? So if I get a wood splitter and cannot see myself using it for a year after all this wood is split. Should I drain all the gas from the tank and let the engine run dry?


Well I don't know if you have what we call "Blue Gas" but it's Ethanol free gas here and comes out of a blue colored nozzle here in Utah, That's all I run now and haven't had any problems, But none of my stuff sits for a year, It sits over the winter and gets used in the spring up until November. Some people don't believe in "Sea Foam" But I put that stuff in everything. I do stock up on fuel so I have some in emergencies, And I add "Stabil" and "Sea Foam" to blue gas to store it.


----------



## Hexa Fox

Old-Feller said:


> Well I don't know if you have what we call "Blue Gas" but it's Ethanol free gas here and comes out of a blue colored nozzle here in Utah, That's all I run now and haven't had any problems, But none of my stuff sits for a year, It sits over the winter and gets used in the spring up until November. Some people don't believe in "Sea Foam" But I put that stuff in everything. I do stock up on fuel so I have some in emergencies, And I add "Stabil" and "Sea Foam" to blue gas to store it.



No, we have Liberty Stations that are the only places (I am aware of) that sell Ethanol Free gas. The problem is they sell all other kinds of gas too. So the Ethanol Free stuff sits in their tanks and goes bad. I could not get any of my STIHL equipment to work with it. Took it to the dealer and he told me to run the freshest stuff I could find and discard it if I did not use it for a long time. Never had an issue running Ethanol since. Except if you count the carburetor I had to replace in my snow blower but that was probably my fault to being with and not Ethanol.

EDIT:
Also are you saying that you run your equipment regularly? Even stuff like your log splitter runs on a semi regular basis?


----------



## quahog

Hexa Fox said:


> EDIT:
> Also are you saying that you run your equipment regularly? Even stuff like your log splitter runs on a semi regular basis?



To me the trick to heating with wood and enjoying it is to take a bight or two at a time, instead of knocking it out all at once. I could see myself running a log splitter at least as often as a lawnmower and probably wouldn't do anything fancy there. Close the fuel shutoff and run the carb out of gas would be about it.

For things like my snowblower and generator that sit, I keep them full at the advice of my local small engine place. Simply close the fuel shutoff and run out of fuel is it.

I do ethanol free in all my small engines except my lawnmower. There are plenty of busy stations here.


----------



## Old-Feller

Hexa Fox said:


> No, we have Liberty Stations that are the only places (I am aware of) that sell Ethanol Free gas. The problem is they sell all other kinds of gas too. So the Ethanol Free stuff sits in their tanks and goes bad. I could not get any of my STIHL equipment to work with it. Took it to the dealer and he told me to run the freshest stuff I could find and discard it if I did not use it for a long time. Never had an issue running Ethanol since. Except if you count the carburetor I had to replace in my snow blower but that was probably my fault to being with and not Ethanol.
> 
> EDIT:
> Also are you saying that you run your equipment regularly? Even stuff like your log splitter runs on a semi regular basis?


Yes my Log Splitter runs quite bit through the summer, And so do my saws, Mower and wheeled weed trimmer, The first year I moved to Utah I used E-85 and it ruined every carburetor I had by spring, I have never used it again even in my fuel injected car. Ethanol gets 20% less fuel economy, So saving 10 or 15 cents a gallon doesn't pencil out on vehicles, And it doesn't pencil out on small engines when you consider the maintenance problems it creates.


----------



## Old-Feller

This is from an Edmunds Article: https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html

The Final Score: Fuel Economy and Cost​
After refueling we put the fuel amounts and the prices paid into a spreadsheet and compiled a clear, side-by-side comparison for both fuel consumption and cost. Remember, these results apply only to this vehicle and to the prices in effect during our 667-mile test.

Gas Result:​
From San Diego to Las Vegas and back, we used 36.5 gallons of regular gasoline and achieved an average fuel economy of 18.3 mpg.

Gas Cost:​
We spent $124.66 for gasoline for the trip. The average pump price was $3.42 per gallon.

E85 Result:​
From San Diego to Las Vegas and back we used 50 gallons of E85 and achieved an average fuel economy of 13.5 mpg.

E85 Cost:​
We spent $154.29 on ethanol for the trip. The average pump price was $3.09 per gallon.
Gas vs. E85 difference:​
The fuel economy of our Tahoe on E85 under these conditions was 26.5 percent worse than it was on gas.


Edit To add: Old-Feller Added: Most people don't know that the green economy seldom does pencil out.


----------



## ken morgan

ethanol free or bust for all my non vehicle engines. last 5 gallon can in the fall is treated with stabil at about 25% more than the recommendation on the bottle. 
So everything gets it even my two stroke engines get it. basically the last two or three tanks for every small engine is run with stabil and close to the end of that units season i fill up and then run it till dry and put it away. 
If I can't quite finish the task at hand too bad it gets done next year. To give an idea, that's five chainsaws, a 40+ year old B&S 8 hp engine on my splitter, my brush cutter and string trimmer, 1 suitcase genset, one 6k genset.
I end up burning up the last of the gas in the winter in the ATC's and quad's, a Honda 200 ATC, a Suzuki two stroke 50cc ATC and a yamaha 100 cc quad. as these three are used year round by my girls and do not require draining.


----------



## parkercam

Hexa Fox said:


> Yeah I see people welding them to their log splitters and wonder what they are thinking. So I was thinking it may be perfect for certain logs or if you have someone helping you. So one of you can position the log and the other can use the hydro lever. I thought about what you said already and it makes total sense. If you plan to use it a lot you are probably going to end up with a lot of kindling or undesirable pieces of wood. Having that said, I like the ones that have the little chain 'lanyard' thing that you can put around the cylinder arm too. Methinks it would significantly reduce the need for brain surgery.
> 
> Okay so made a lot of progress today.
> 
> 1.) Talked to Rural King and my local one does not have any splitters on sale right now. They said all you can do is call back and check.
> 
> 2.) I went to Tractor Supply today and someone brought back an Oregon 30 Ton and they reduced the price $200 to $1,600. I talked to them about it and told them I wanted to do more research on the Kohler. It is an SH series and I was told long ago to not screw with modern Kohler unless it is in the Command Series. Also they could not get the story straight on the splitter either. The manager said it has never been used but 100% has. You can see the stains from it splitting wood. He was a nice guy but insisted it never had fuel in it. I ensured him I already checked and it was full of fuel. He said the guy brought it back because he put the log catcher on the wrong side and broke the welds off of it. They said they may consider taking a little less for it. I love Oregon, I really do. I think you guys already know they make awesome aftermarket commercial chainsaw chains, bars and even lawn mower blades. However, the quality of this wood splitter is questionable.
> 
> 3.) Also stopped by Home Depot and their Champions seem to be in the lead. The Oregon has a protruding neck and the hydraulic cap is plastic whereas the Champion is not protruding and metal like all the others I have seen. They have a 27 Ton for $1,499 or the 34 Ton for $1,899. They do simply put look like more quality machines. The Oregon looks like it may be a little heavier. I also heard you guys saying that their engines are cloned Honda's? The 27 Ton out front clearly has some kind of residue on it. It is like a brown film and definitely oily. I am not certain if it is hydraulic fluid or what. It says they have others in stock.
> 
> By the way, thanks for all the awesome feedback. You guys have given me a lot information. As always any thoughts on anything I wrote here is much appreciated.


I just happened upon this thread and noted a similarity and it currently has me stumped. I was at Home Depot on Saturday and they also had an Oregon 30ton splitter that had been returned to the store. I went home with it with a 15% discount. Seemed about as good a deal as any in this market. I have run about half a tank of gas through it and nothing seems off about it...I am not sure why it would have been returned and hope I'm not missing something before the window closes for me to return it if there are issues i am missing.


----------



## Hermio

Old-Feller said:


> This is from an Edmunds Article: https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html
> 
> The Final Score: Fuel Economy and Cost​
> After refueling we put the fuel amounts and the prices paid into a spreadsheet and compiled a clear, side-by-side comparison for both fuel consumption and cost. Remember, these results apply only to this vehicle and to the prices in effect during our 667-mile test.
> 
> Gas Result:​
> From San Diego to Las Vegas and back, we used 36.5 gallons of regular gasoline and achieved an average fuel economy of 18.3 mpg.
> 
> Gas Cost:​
> We spent $124.66 for gasoline for the trip. The average pump price was $3.42 per gallon.
> 
> E85 Result:​
> From San Diego to Las Vegas and back we used 50 gallons of E85 and achieved an average fuel economy of 13.5 mpg.
> 
> E85 Cost:​
> We spent $154.29 on ethanol for the trip. The average pump price was $3.09 per gallon.
> Gas vs. E85 difference:​
> The fuel economy of our Tahoe on E85 under these conditions was 26.5 percent worse than it was on gas.
> 
> 
> Edit To add: Old-Feller Added: Most people don't know that the green economy seldom does pencil out.


Not surprising. Ethanol has less energy per gallon than gasoline. But I like the idea of flex fuel vehicles so that one can shop the market for whatever gives the lowest cost per mile at that time. Fuel economy must be factored into it, of course. In your above example, the E85 price would need to be $2.52/gallon or less for it to equal or beat the cost per mile of gasoline.


----------



## sean donato

Most my equipment is used year round so I don't worry too much about it. It all gets treated regardless if it's sitting or getting used. Stuff thats going to sit gets run out of fuel, and the carb bowls drained. It's more of a pain then its worth searching out regular gas, and I'm not running any leaded gas in my equipment. I don't have carb issues and haven't really ever had carb issues so my routine must work.


----------



## Hermio

sean donato said:


> Most my equipment is used year round so I don't worry too much about it. It all gets treated regardless if it's sitting or getting used. Stuff thats going to sit gets run out of fuel, and the carb bowls drained. It's more of a pain then its worth searching out regular gas, and I'm not running any leaded gas in my equipment. I don't have carb issues and haven't really ever had carb issues so my routine must work.


I never have any fuel issues with my chainsaw (MS500i), and never did with previous saws. I use Sta-Bil every time. My saw sits idle about 10 months out of the year, and I do not drain it. As for my log splitter, it is a 20 ton electric. No fuel issues, no fumes, less heat and noise!


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## VirginiaIron

parkercam said:


> I just happened upon this thread and noted a similarity and it currently has me stumped. I was at Home Depot on Saturday and they also had an Oregon 30ton splitter that had been returned to the store. I went home with it with a 15% discount. Seemed about as good a deal as any in this market. I have run about half a tank of gas through it and nothing seems off about it...I am not sure why it would have been returned and hope I'm not missing something before the window closes for me to return it if there are issues i am missing.


Buyers remorse once itemsbecame a possession, or someone used it and returned it in the same window. Or, they realized the wood doesn't split itself and even though you have a splitter, there is work involved.


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## Hexa Fox

parkercam said:


> I just happened upon this thread and noted a similarity and it currently has me stumped. I was at Home Depot on Saturday and they also had an Oregon 30ton splitter that had been returned to the store. I went home with it with a 15% discount. Seemed about as good a deal as any in this market. I have run about half a tank of gas through it and nothing seems off about it...I am not sure why it would have been returned and hope I'm not missing something before the window closes for me to return it if there are issues i am missing.



I would not worry too much. I am not sure what the manufacturer warranty is but Oregon has a reputation to maintain so they are probably one of the better ones to be dealing with. I just saw another one today. They do look like sturdy log splitters just a few things I personally did not like, as I mentioned before. The one that was brought back to the store was still there this morning. This one actually has something wrong with it, as in the guy broke off the welds from putting the log catcher on the wrong side. If they would discount it more I would pull the trigger. Just did not like how they were already dishonest about it.


----------



## Hexa Fox

VirginiaIron said:


> Buyers remorse once itemsbecame a possession, or someone used it and returned it in the same window. Or, they realized the wood doesn't split itself and even though you have a splitter, there is work involved.



This is what I do not want to be. It feels like almost every year or at least every couple years there is a though going through my head saying "wish I had a log splitter right now". People give wood away in our neighborhood all the time for free. I wonder how they would feel if you came over, split the wood where it sat, loaded and took off with it? lol 

The last time I took away free firewood I had to load the large pieces into the back of my truck. It was not a fun job for my father or I. I wish I would have had a bigger saw and a log splitter for that. We would have had firewood for a few seasons if I could have gotten it all.


----------



## ericm979

I've got an Oregon splitter with the Kohler SH395 engine. It works fine. The engine starts up easily and runs well. Parts like air filters are a little expensive, but they are readily available.

Much of the wood I have is difficult to split. Bay and tan oak are both stringy and you have to drive the wedge all the way through the piece. Live oak and Eucalyptus are super dense. I tried splitting Eucalyptus by hand- an 8lb maul just bounces off. My criteria for a splitter is that it has to split the Euc and Bay. The Oregon "28 ton" splitter with 4.5" cylinder does it well. (splitter ton ratings are often wildly inflated. Calculating with the piston diameter and relief pressure, this one is not too far off).

Having used one for a few years, I'm not a fan of horizontal/vertical splitters. I find vertical mode to be useless. It takes a lot of upper body strength to position a round in the splitter. I'd rather use my much stronger legs and back to lift a round onto a horizontal splitter. When the rounds are too big to lift I section them by noodling with the saw. The H/V design has the wheels in the way of the operator, which is a bit of a pain but I can work around it.

I'd like to fab a log lift but the geometry of the H/V splitter with the wheels in the way makes it difficult. I'd love a push through splitter with log lift but I can't justify $6k+ for one.


----------



## sean donato

Hexa Fox said:


> This is what I do not want to be. It feels like almost every year or at least every couple years there is a though going through my head saying "wish I had a log splitter right now". People give wood away in our neighborhood all the time for free. I wonder how they would feel if you came over, split the wood where it sat, loaded and took off with it? lol
> 
> The last time I took away free firewood I had to load the large pieces into the back of my truck. It was not a fun job for my father or I. I wish I would have had a bigger saw and a log splitter for that. We would have had firewood for a few seasons if I could have gotten it all.


Good luck convincing someone that it's normal to split free wood at their house and not yours. Most I'd consider doing is bucking into smaller rounds or noodling to make the rounds manageable. Then can up the mess. Never would even consider taking a splitter to someone else's house that I don't know well to split wood to take home.


----------



## VirginiaIron

ericm979 said:


> I've got an Oregon splitter with the Kohler SH395 engine. It works fine. The engine starts up easily and runs well. Parts like air filters are a little expensive, but they are readily available.
> 
> Much of the wood I have is difficult to split. Bay and tan oak are both stringy and you have to drive the wedge all the way through the piece. Live oak and Eucalyptus are super dense. I tried splitting Eucalyptus by hand- an 8lb maul just bounces off. My criteria for a splitter is that it has to split the Euc and Bay. The Oregon "28 ton" splitter with 4.5" cylinder does it well. (splitter ton ratings are often wildly inflated. Calculating with the piston diameter and relief pressure, this one is not too far off).
> 
> Having used one for a few years, I'm not a fan of horizontal/vertical splitters. I find vertical mode to be useless. It takes a lot of upper body strength to position a round in the splitter. I'd rather use my much stronger legs and back to lift a round onto a horizontal splitter. When the rounds are too big to lift I section them by noodling with the saw. The H/V design has the wheels in the way of the operator, which is a bit of a pain but I can work around it.
> 
> I'd like to fab a log lift but the geometry of the H/V splitter with the wheels in the way makes it difficult. I'd love a push through splitter with log lift but I can't justify $6k+ for one.


"...I'd love a push through splitter with log lift but I can't justify $6k+ for one...."
I think the RuggedMades are around $3K.
Go to youtube, find your design, and see how others have made a lift.


----------



## Old-Feller

parkercam said:


> I just happened upon this thread and noted a similarity and it currently has me stumped. I was at Home Depot on Saturday and they also had an Oregon 30ton splitter that had been returned to the store. I went home with it with a 15% discount. Seemed about as good a deal as any in this market. I have run about half a tank of gas through it and nothing seems off about it...I am not sure why it would have been returned and hope I'm not missing something before the window closes for me to return it if there are issues i am missing.


People buy stuff they need for one job instead of renting it and return it, It's wrong, The companies just add their loss to their bottom line and you and I pay for it, It's just dishonest, That's what 80% of returns are, I knew a guy that would buy a nice set of clothes for a wedding, Or a special occasion and wear them and return them on Monday, Drives me insane! Although I know it's a short trip!


----------



## blades

many years ago had a guy working for me that did just that buy something for the job at hand then return it this was in the 70's. 
On Another note my oldest son who would borrow my 12" sliding miter saw for months on end went out a bought his own. funny part is he complained abought the cost of blades. Huh? What ? the old man here has been running a saw/machine shop for 30 years - guess things don't always click.


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## Hexa Fox

VirginiaIron said:


> "...I'd love a push through splitter with log lift but I can't justify $6k+ for one...."
> I think the RuggedMades are around $3K.
> Go to youtube, find your design, and see how others have made a lift.



They are closer to 4k and that is for a 22 Ton and I am definitely considering it. Like I said before you get a log lift, push through splitter, work table and a 4 way slip over. Just it is hard to justify for something I personally may not use for potentially a couple years at a time. 

Right now I am looking at the County Line splitters like a few others here have mentioned.


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> They are closer to 4k and that is for a 22 Ton and I am definitely considering it. Like I said before you get a log lift, push through splitter, work table and a 4 way slip over. Just it is hard to justify for something I personally may not use for potentially a couple years at a time.
> 
> Right now I am looking at the County Line splitters like a few others here have mentioned.


Yeah, things never change. I wanted the RM full beam six years ago for $2,900? (free shipping) but couldn't justify it.


----------



## ken morgan

guess i am just a cheep bastard... I just fabbed up my own. too lazy to split by hand when I can make my own splitter from odds and ends.


----------



## VirginiaIron

ken morgan said:


> guess i am just a cheep bastard... I just fabbed up my own. too lazy to split by hand when I can make my own splitter from odds and ends.


Me too...! Thats why I modded one. We need a picture!


----------



## Hexa Fox

ken morgan said:


> guess i am just a cheep bastard... I just fabbed up my own. too lazy to split by hand when I can make my own splitter from odds and ends.



I wish that I had some materials laying around so I could start something. I am short on everything though. I need a proper shop to start. Plus A log splitter probably isn't the most complicated of things to build but I do not have much experience welding and even less in fabricating. I guess you have to start somewhere but it is just not possible for me personally. I would end up purchasing or sourcing about every piece of the splitter. It would be different if I had some stuff lying around.


----------



## ken morgan

Hexa Fox said:


> I wish that I had some materials laying around so I could start something. I am short on everything though. I need a proper shop to start. Plus A log splitter probably isn't the most complicated of things to build but I do not have much experience welding and even less in fabricating. I guess you have to start somewhere but it is just not possible for me personally. I would end up purchasing or sourcing about every piece of the splitter. It would be different if I had some stuff lying around.


that's how we all start out... at the bottom and working our way up. do what you can, every effort pays dividends. I started out as a kid working nights at a fabrication shop. joined the military but held onto the skills I was taught every step of my life. 35 years later being lazy i built a wood splitter using skills taught to me 35 years prior. you can do it, but a cheap stick welder as you are working with thick metal its perfect and cheap. a piece of scrap steel here a piece of scrap steel there.... 90% of my splitter is 40 years old plus. the only new things were the hydro pump and the valve assembly, everything else was "scrap" but of good pedigree. everything else was just scrap...in everybody else's eyes....


----------



## Old-Feller

Hexa Fox said:


> I wish that I had some materials laying around so I could start something. I am short on everything though. I need a proper shop to start. Plus A log splitter probably isn't the most complicated of things to build but I do not have much experience welding and even less in fabricating. I guess you have to start somewhere but it is just not possible for me personally. I would end up purchasing or sourcing about every piece of the splitter. It would be different if I had some stuff lying around.


Yeah, I have around $2000.00 in my current Home Built Splitter and probably 60 hours of work, But it is many steps up from anything from a box store. You can build one yourself cheap if you try to source everything a little at a time, The I beam, The ram and pump and hydraulic hoses will be what is the hardest to find. I have built 3 of them over the years, Where I live now there isn't many places to scrounge stuff. A Scrap yard is a great place to find much of what you need. One of my early splitters I built was made from scrap yard parts, But that's when I lived near Los Angeles and there was lots of stuff to be had. One of them I built I used an old lawn mower engine from a wheel horse mower and an old road grader ram, I did by an auto return log splitter valve and new hoses. Some guys have used large square tubing instead of I-Beam for the main beam.

Find yourself an old Buzz box welder on CL and learn to use it, The little 110 wire feeds won't make a strong enough weld for most of the things you need to weld on a splitter, But in my younger days I built quite a few trailers and things with just an AC buzz box. Like this one.


----------



## parkercam

Hexa Fox said:


> I would not worry too much. I am not sure what the manufacturer warranty is but Oregon has a reputation to maintain so they are probably one of the better ones to be dealing with. I just saw another one today. They do look like sturdy log splitters just a few things I personally did not like, as I mentioned before. The one that was brought back to the store was still there this morning. This one actually has something wrong with it, as in the guy broke off the welds from putting the log catcher on the wrong side. If they would discount it more I would pull the trigger. Just did not like how they were already dishonest about it.


Thanks for the good words! I hope you and everyone else are indeed correct. I looked at it yesterday and it's hard to understand why they would mount the log catcher on the wrong side...maybe they shouldn't own a log splitter in the first place, it seemed like a pretty obvious mounting to me.


----------



## Hexa Fox

parkercam said:


> Thanks for the good words! I hope you and everyone else are indeed correct. I looked at it yesterday and it's hard to understand why they would mount the log catcher on the wrong side...maybe they shouldn't own a log splitter in the first place, it seemed like a pretty obvious mounting to me.



Yeah no problem. Something I did not want to mention to you that I noticed is that the 'power train' on the 25 Ton County Line is identical to the 30 Ton Oregon. The engine is the same 6.5 HP Kohler and the hydraulic pumps have the same part number. Having that said, if you want your mind a little more at ease it does look like the Oregon is a little over 150lbs heavier than the County Line. So sounds like you at least got a heavier product, which I would say counts for a lot in a log splitter.


----------



## VirginiaIron

ken morgan said:


> guess i am just a cheep bastard... I just fabbed up my own. too lazy to split by hand when I can make my own splitter from odds and ends.


I took this heirloom piece my dad built from 1980(?) and used it until about 2013(?) as it was, then raised it with an axle and tongue jack. Then decided to go full mod around 2016.


----------



## Hexa Fox

I can confirm that the Speeco 4 Way Wedge does not fit on many modern log splitters. It fit on old style Champion Log Splitters but I tried it today and it does not fit on the Champion 27 Ton or the 34 Ton. It also does not fit on the County Line 25 Ton. Ironically though I do think it will fit over the Oregon 30 Ton. Tractor Supply was really busy and I did not want to be messing around with it. I believe it is going to be a tight fit though. Like I said, I may have to look into that used Oregon if he agrees to lower the price. It was still there today. 

I am going to invest into one of those Curt Adjustable Trailer Hitches as well. They get pretty good reviews and will provide more than enough towing capacity for my truck and probably even if I upgrade trucks. I will leave the part number at the bottom of this thread. They have a 14,000 trailering limit, which exceeds my 1500's capacity easily. I figure I will probably easily be able to drop it down so that the log splitter is not too awkward while towing it home or from place to place. 
​CURT 45900​


----------



## GrizG

Hexa Fox said:


> I can confirm that the Speeco 4 Way Wedge does not fit on many modern log splitters. It fit on old style Champion Log Splitters but I tried it today and it does not fit on the Champion 27 Ton or the 34 Ton. It also does not fit on the County Line 25 Ton. Ironically though I do think it will fit over the Oregon 30 Ton. Tractor Supply was really busy and I did not want to be messing around with it. I believe it is going to be a tight fit though. Like I said, I may have to look into that used Oregon if he agrees to lower the price. It was still there today.
> 
> I am going to invest into one of those Curt Adjustable Trailer Hitches as well. They get pretty good reviews and will provide more than enough towing capacity for my truck and probably even if I upgrade trucks. I will leave the part number at the bottom of this thread. They have a 14,000 trailering limit, which exceeds my 1500's capacity easily. I figure I will probably easily be able to drop it down so that the log splitter is not too awkward while towing it home or from place to place.
> ​CURT 45900​


The SpeeCo 4-way should fit the Oregon as the Oregon splitters are rebranded SpeeCo... I have one of those 4-way wedges for my SpeeCo 35 that I got for free. I have yet to use it as the rounds I've been working on weren't the appropriate size--most were way too big to start with and others too small. Without the ability to change the head height it's utility is kind of limited. For someone with lots of rounds the "right size" it looks like it would work!


----------



## Hexa Fox

GrizG said:


> The SpeeCo 4-way should fit the Oregon as the Oregon splitters are rebranded SpeeCo... I have one of those 4-way wedges for my SpeeCo 35 that I got for free. I have yet to use it as the rounds I've been working on weren't the appropriate size--most were way too big to start with and others too small. Without the ability to change the head height it's utility is kind of limited. For someone with lots of rounds the "right size" it looks like it would work!


Thanks. I read somewhere awhile ago that they fit Oregon and Husqvarna splitters. I just figured you could not trust it since not only the company who actually manufacturer the splitters change but the splitters themselves change over time it would be difficult to know 100%. I figured the best thing to do was to purchase it and see if it would fit over the splitters. I thought it would easily go over the Champions since I have seen them in videos and stuff. I found otherwise.

Also this is one of the concerns I have. The first image is of the County Line 25 Ton and the second is the Oregon 30 Ton. If you ask me just observing this shows a night and day difference in quality. I am not even sure what is going on with the Oregon, like that is a plastic cap and it is rusting? I also took that cap off and that neck is very thin metal. I can easily see a piece of wood getting thrown into it and that being the end of that. Another concern as people have mentioned is the finish on the Oregon. Do not get me wrong, it looks great but there are countless places on it where paints seems to be chipped off or already rusting.

As I also mentioned before I mostly love Oregon products, I realize that they rebrand a lot of stuff as theirs. Like these log splitters or Burr Kings Belt Grinders. I started using Oregon lawn mower blades to replace the commercial high lift blades on my Ferris and Oregon chainsaw chains for my STIHL. All I can say is I am impressed with the quality. So not hating on Oregon,.


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> Thanks. I read somewhere awhile ago that they fit Oregon and Husqvarna splitters. I just figured you could not trust it since not only the company who actually manufacturer the splitters change but the splitters themselves change over time it would be difficult to know 100%. I figured the best thing to do was to purchase it and see if it would fit over the splitters. I thought it would easily go over the Champions since I have seen them in videos and stuff. I found otherwise.
> 
> Also this is one of the concerns I have. The first image is of the County Line 25 Ton and the second is the Oregon 30 Ton. If you ask me just observing this shows a night and day difference in quality. I am not even sure what is going on with the Oregon, like that is a plastic cap and it is rusting? I also took that cap off and that neck is very thin metal. I can easily see a piece of wood getting thrown into it and that being the end of that. Another concern as people have mentioned is the finish on the Oregon. Do not get me wrong, it looks great but there are countless places on it where paints seems to be chipped off or already rusting.
> 
> As I also mentioned before I mostly love Oregon products, I realize that they rebrand a lot of stuff as theirs. Like these log splitters or Burr Kings Belt Grinders. I started using Oregon lawn mower blades to replace the commercial high lift blades on my Ferris and Oregon chainsaw chains for my STIHL. All I can say is I am impressed with the quality. So not hating on Oregon,.
> View attachment 1022483
> 
> View attachment 1022484


Alright, now I know what you're talking about. I put a cap over my breather as well to keep out rain and dirt dobbers. It seems there is no screen in the hole. Sometimes I remember to take mine off but mostly I leave it on there.


----------



## sean donato

Old-Feller said:


> Yeah, I have around $2000.00 in my current Home Built Splitter and probably 60 hours of work, But it is many steps up from anything from a box store. You can build one yourself cheap if you try to source everything a little at a time, The I beam, The ram and pump and hydraulic hoses will be what is the hardest to find. I have built 3 of them over the years, Where I live now there isn't many places to scrounge stuff. A Scrap yard is a great place to find much of what you need. One of my early splitters I built was made from scrap yard parts, But that's when I lived near Los Angeles and there was lots of stuff to be had. One of them I built I used an old lawn mower engine from a wheel horse mower and an old road grader ram, I did by an auto return log splitter valve and new hoses. Some guys have used large square tubing instead of I-Beam for the main beam.
> 
> Find yourself an old Buzz box welder on CL and learn to use it, The little 110 wire feeds won't make a strong enough weld for most of the things you need to weld on a splitter, But in my younger days I built quite a few trailers and things with just an AC buzz box. Like this one.
> 
> View attachment 1022127


No offense but a 140 amp 120volt machine welded 90% of my splitter. Ripped the wedge off a few times, till I realized I was bending the end of the beam. Would have fixed it with thay same 140 amp welder, but I had it at work to get one of the guys opinions and we ended up reinforcing the wedge at work. Multi pass, preheating and good welding habits are better then a big stick welder thay few people seem to get proficient at using. Especially an ac only machine imo.


----------



## ken morgan

VirginiaIron said:


> Me too...! Thats why I modded one. We need a picture!


when i go up to my cabin next week I will get some pics.


----------



## ken morgan

Old-Feller said:


> Find yourself an old Buzz box welder on CL and learn to use it, The little 110 wire feeds won't make a strong enough weld for most of the things you need to weld on a splitter, But in my younger days I built quite a few trailers and things with just an AC buzz box. Like this one.
> 
> View attachment 1022127


I learned on an old Lincoln tombstone welder back in the early 80's. learn how to run a good clean 7018 rod on one of the old buzz box welders and you can weld with anything. BTW only some of the E7018's are formulated for a/c so research before you buy. would be easier if you had an ac/dc welder.


----------



## Old-Feller

ken morgan said:


> I learned on an old Lincoln tombstone welder back in the early 80's. learn how to run a good clean 7018 rod on one of the old buzz box welders and you can weld with anything. BTW only some of the E7018's are formulated for a/c so research before you buy. would be easier if you had an ac/dc welder.


Yes you are right, You need to buy the 7018AC rod, Regular 7018 doesn't work too well. The best rod I ever used for one of those buzz boxes was 7014, It just works and works well.


----------



## Old-Feller

sean donato said:


> No offense but a 140 amp 120volt machine welded 90% of my splitter. Ripped the wedge off a few times, till I realized I was bending the end of the beam. Would have fixed it with thay same 140 amp welder, but I had it at work to get one of the guys opinions and we ended up reinforcing the wedge at work. Multi pass, preheating and good welding habits are better then a big stick welder thay few people seem to get proficient at using. Especially an ac only machine imo.


You can do it with multiple passes, But honestly I welded my ram mount with 7018 because it's stronger than mig. The rest I welded with my Old School Millermatic 200 from the 80's that just refuses to die. I can run beautiful welds with an AC buzzbox, 7014 is the key, But yes you are right stick welding will become a lost art.

I also own a Lincoln 140 HD 110 machine and I use it often, But it has it's limitations, It makes beautiful welds though.

Throw up some pics of your splitter, I love seeing home built splitters.

This pic is a weld from my Lincoln 180 HD I own 6 or 7 welding machines, I worked in a few fab shops doing mostly aluminum work Mig and Tig.


----------



## Old-Feller

Hexa Fox said:


> Thanks. I read somewhere awhile ago that they fit Oregon and Husqvarna splitters. I just figured you could not trust it since not only the company who actually manufacturer the splitters change but the splitters themselves change over time it would be difficult to know 100%. I figured the best thing to do was to purchase it and see if it would fit over the splitters. I thought it would easily go over the Champions since I have seen them in videos and stuff. I found otherwise.
> 
> Also this is one of the concerns I have. The first image is of the County Line 25 Ton and the second is the Oregon 30 Ton. If you ask me just observing this shows a night and day difference in quality. I am not even sure what is going on with the Oregon, like that is a plastic cap and it is rusting? I also took that cap off and that neck is very thin metal. I can easily see a piece of wood getting thrown into it and that being the end of that. Another concern as people have mentioned is the finish on the Oregon. Do not get me wrong, it looks great but there are countless places on it where paints seems to be chipped off or already rusting.
> 
> As I also mentioned before I mostly love Oregon products, I realize that they rebrand a lot of stuff as theirs. Like these log splitters or Burr Kings Belt Grinders. I started using Oregon lawn mower blades to replace the commercial high lift blades on my Ferris and Oregon chainsaw chains for my STIHL. All I can say is I am impressed with the quality. So not hating on Oregon,.
> View attachment 1022483
> 
> View attachment 1022484


That pipe plug cap with the hole drilled in it for the vent scares me more than the rusty one, I live in snow country and that one with the hole would introduce water into the hydraulics pretty quickly around here.


----------



## Hexa Fox

Old-Feller said:


> That pipe plug cap with the hole drilled in it for the vent scares me more than the rusty one, I live in snow country and that one with the hole would introduce water into the hydraulics pretty quickly around here.



Yeah so how does the rusty plastic one even vent? Large threads that are not air tight?


----------



## Old-Feller

Hexa Fox said:


> Yeah so how does the rusty plastic one even vent? Large threads that are not air tight?


I would have to look at it to see how it vents, But I would think the vent is underneath. But it has to vent.


----------



## Old-Feller

VirginiaIron said:


> I took this heirloom piece my dad built from 1980(?) and used it until about 2013(?) as it was, then raised it with an axle and tongue jack. Then decided to go full mod around 2016.


Wow! That turned out great! Glad you added before and after pics!


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> Yeah so how does the rusty plastic one even vent? Large threads that are not air tight?


I think there is welding splatter on that cap; if that is splatter then the cap is metal.


----------



## JRM

Those vent caps are not meant to live outside 24/7 (I'd argue the entire splitter isn't either, but that's another discussion). 
If your splitter sits outside without cover a good quality vent cap with a filter should be the first upgrade.


----------



## Hexa Fox

VirginiaIron said:


> I think there is welding splatter on that cap; if that is splatter then the cap is metal.



I will have to check it out again but I did take it off. I remember it looking plastic and feeling like plastic. I could be wrong though. 


JRM said:


> Those vent caps are not meant to live outside 24/7 (I'd argue the entire splitter isn't either, but that's another discussion).
> If your splitter sits outside without cover a good quality vent cap with a filter should be the first upgrade.



Can you give an example of this or a video?


----------



## sean donato

Old-Feller said:


> You can do it with multiple passes, But honestly I welded my ram mount with 7018 because it's stronger than mig. The rest I welded with my Old School Millermatic 200 from the 80's that just refuses to die. I can run beautiful welds with an AC buzzbox, 7014 is the key, But yes you are right stick welding will become a lost art.
> 
> I also own a Lincoln 140 HD 110 machine and I use it often, But it has it's limitations, It makes beautiful welds though.
> 
> Throw up some pics of your splitter, I love seeing home built splitters.
> 
> This pic is a weld from my Lincoln 180 HD I own 6 or 7 welding machines, I worked in a few fab shops doing mostly aluminum work Mig and Tig.


My biggest gripe with ac only machines is the poor selection of rods, and when you do find them they cost more then a dc rod. I have access to bigger gas driven welders, I'm kinds the black sheep of the family dad and both my brothers are welders I'm the mechanic in the family. Running across town to grab the Lincoln or thermodyne is a pain. I did recently pickn up a no name 250 amp multi process machine haven't had the need to use it yet. 
Here's a few pics of the current splitter. That Plate on the back of the wedge timing it to the beam turned out to be the fix for me ripping the wedge off. The small beam is the weak link, I've had to back the relief pressure down to 2400psi to keep the beam from bowing too bad. This winter my brother and I are going to start on the next version. Picked up some mic channel to fabricate the main beam from. Hoping it will be closer to a mini processor then just a splitter. Also will be going with a 6 inch cylinder over the 5 inch on this splitter. Well may be going with duel 4 inch cylinders depending on what I can find. Learned a lot building this splitter.


----------



## VirginiaIron

I like your power beyond/return line


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> I will have to check it out again but I did take it off. I remember it looking plastic and feeling like plastic. I could be wrong though.
> 
> 
> Can you give an example of this or a video?


----------



## sean donato

VirginiaIron said:


> I like your power beyond/return line


Yeah, I was done spending money at that point lol. Found a hunk of metal, drilled and tapped it for a Y fitting, some low pressure hose I had laying around and there it was.


----------



## Old-Feller

sean donato said:


> My biggest gripe with ac only machines is the poor selection of rods, and when you do find them they cost more then a dc rod. I have access to bigger gas driven welders, I'm kinds the black sheep of the family dad and both my brothers are welders I'm the mechanic in the family. Running across town to grab the Lincoln or thermodyne is a pain. I did recently pickn up a no name 250 amp multi process machine haven't had the need to use it yet.
> Here's a few pics of the current splitter. That Plate on the back of the wedge timing it to the beam turned out to be the fix for me ripping the wedge off. The small beam is the weak link, I've had to back the relief pressure down to 2400psi to keep the beam from bowing too bad. This winter my brother and I are going to start on the next version. Picked up some mic channel to fabricate the main beam from. Hoping it will be closer to a mini processor then just a splitter. Also will be going with a 6 inch cylinder over the 5 inch on this splitter. Well may be going with duel 4 inch cylinders depending on what I can find. Learned a lot building this splitter




Looks good, I like your Avatar, I wonder how many people actually understand what you mean. With all of the money I have spent on saws, splitter, Trailers Etc. I'm not saving any money really.


----------



## sean donato

Old-Feller said:


> Looks good, I like your Avatar, I wonder how many people actually understand what you mean. With all of the money I have spent on saws, splitter, Trailers Etc. I'm not saving any money really.


My wife found that picture and said it fit me perfectly, I had to agree. Yep, I doubt I'm saving much either. Labor of love, and I love saws, trucks, trailers, equipment, the whole bit lol.


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## Lionsfan

Old-Feller said:


> Looks good, I like your Avatar, I wonder how many people actually understand what you mean. With all of the money I have spent on saws, splitter, Trailers Etc. I'm not saving any money really.


I know exactly what his Avatar means!


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## Bikerbrian

Old-Feller said:


> You can do it with multiple passes, But honestly I welded my ram mount with 7018 because it's stronger than mig. The rest I welded with my Old School Millermatic 200 from the 80's that just refuses to die. I can run beautiful welds with an AC buzzbox, 7014 is the key, But yes you are right stick welding will become a lost art.
> 
> I also own a Lincoln 140 HD 110 machine and I use it often, But it has it's limitations, It makes beautiful welds though.
> 
> Throw up some pics of your splitter, I love seeing home built splitters.
> 
> This pic is a weld from my Lincoln 180 HD I own 6 or 7 welding machines, I worked in a few fab shops doing mostly aluminum work Mig and Tig.


Those Millermatic 200 are good machines I still have a old Millermatic 35 that I keep to let friends use instead of my good Miller 210. The Millermatic 35 is nice because you can run it off a generator if needed even and not worry about a voltage spike hurting anything.


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## JRM

Hexa Fox said:


> Can you give an example of this or a video?


Sean has one on his splitter pictures he posted. It's a weather proof cap with (likely) some type of mesh packed in it, like a CCV filter, to help catch any heavy dust, prevent insects from crawling in, etc.


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## Lionsfan

Old-Feller said:


> That pipe plug cap with the hole drilled in it for the vent scares me more than the rusty one, I live in snow country and that one with the hole would introduce water into the hydraulics pretty quickly around here.


I pick my days with mine, and typically head for the barn if it looks like rain is moving in, so it's been a a non-issue. I have threatened to change it to something more bullet-proof, but haven't got around to it yet. Maybe this winter in the off-season.


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## Old-Feller

Bikerbrian said:


> Those Millermatic 200 are good machines I still have a old Millermatic 35 that I keep to let friends use instead of my good Miller 210. The Millermatic 35 is nice because you can run it off a generator if needed even and not worry about a voltage spike hurting anything.


You are right about those old "Millermatic 35" Machines they are good old machines and most of them are still being used, That's what I had before I replaced it with the Millermatic 200. The 35 is not quite the machine of the 200 but If I still had mine I would not feel like I didn't have enough welder. The only problem I ever had with it was the heat taps would melt the plastic nuts that held them in, Other than that they are solid machines.


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## JRM

Lionsfan said:


> I pick my days with mine, and typically head for the barn if it looks like rain is moving in, so it's been a a non-issue. I have threatened to change it to something more bullet-proof, but haven't got around to it yet. Maybe this winter in the off-season.


Same here. Mine only comes out when I am using it, which isn't in the rain  
In 10-12 years my oil has always looked nice and clear - no milky appearance. It's only a potential issue if they are left out in the weather.


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## JRM

On the subject of welders. I've got a Ranger 8. I recently fried the control board on it. The best option I've found so far is a company called Radwell that repairs them for around $300. I've seen them listed for over $800 
As common a machine as they are I was hoping to find a parts machine or even a board on ebay. The parts well for them is really dry....probably an indicator of how long they really do last.


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## fields_mj

sean donato said:


> No offense but a 140 amp 120volt machine welded 90% of my splitter. Ripped the wedge off a few times, till I realized I was bending the end of the beam. Would have fixed it with thay same 140 amp welder, but I had it at work to get one of the guys opinions and we ended up reinforcing the wedge at work. Multi pass, preheating and good welding habits are better then a big stick welder thay few people seem to get proficient at using. Especially an ac only machine imo.


Bigger rod on a bigger welder might be faster, but it's not going to produce a better weld than a smaller welder with multiple passes that's done correctly. I'm not a welder by trade, but I get to enjoy burning some metal from time to time. I learned on a Century welder back in the 80s after first learning to push a puddle with a torch. I've been fortunate to use some nice mig and tig welders over the years, but my stuff has always been on the cheap end. I bought a used Century 250 amp AC welder from a coworker for $20 before upgrading to a brand spanking new AMCO 160 amp DC welder from amazon. It may be crap compared to a real welder, but I actually love the little thing. I normally run it on its 220v setting just to keep from tripping breakers, but since I don't run it over 120 amps, I could get by with 110 if I paced myself a little better. If it has to hold, I generally grind a bevel, lay a root with 6011, and layer in with 7014. My results aren't perfect, and aren't always petty, but they are stronger than the original material and work for my needs. Most of my welding projects involve my old 1710 tractor and firewood, or my truck and trailer for the same purpose.


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## fields_mj

Old-Feller said:


> But yes you are right stick welding will become a lost art.


So long as there are homesteaders small farmers, and stubborn old rednecks like us, I think the art of stick welding will survive


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## Sierra_rider

sean donato said:


> My wife found that picture and said it fit me perfectly, I had to agree. Yep, I doubt I'm saving much either. Labor of love, and I love saws, trucks, trailers, equipment, the whole bit lol.


This. I've got a couple of chainsaw-related side hustles...but in reality, I'm not getting rich at them. They are merely paying for a hobby. 2022 has been expensive for me...3 new powersaws and a lathe lol.


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## Old-Feller

sean donato said:


> My wife found that picture and said it fit me perfectly, I had to agree. Yep, I doubt I'm saving much either. Labor of love, and I love saws, trucks, trailers, equipment, the whole bit lol.


I bet your wife has great sense of humor and is funny too!


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## sean donato

Old-Feller said:


> I bet your wife has great sense of humor and is funny too!


She comes up with a good one from time to time.


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## sean donato

JRM said:


> Sean has one on his splitter pictures he posted. It's a weather proof cap with (likely) some type of mesh packed in it, like a CCV filter, to help catch any heavy dust, prevent insects from crawling in, etc.


Yep. Picture attached 


JRM said:


> Same here. Mine only comes out when I am using it, which isn't in the rain
> In 10-12 years my oil has always looked nice and clear - no milky appearance. It's only a potential issue if they are left out in the weather.


For the past 9 years since its been built my splitter lives out doors. Oil is just as clear as the day I filled her up. I don't actually have anywhere to put it under roof either, so that being said, it doesn't have a choice but to deal with the weather.


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## ken morgan

Sierra_rider said:


> This. I've got a couple of chainsaw-related side hustles...but in reality, I'm not getting rich at them. They are merely paying for a hobby. 2022 has been expensive for me...3 new powersaws and a lathe lol.


didh you say lathe? FML... drools in three different languages...


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## Old-Feller

ken morgan said:


> didh you say lathe? FML... drools in three different languages...


Got 2 of them, Very fun pastime. And a Mill.


----------



## Hexa Fox

fields_mj said:


> Bigger rod on a bigger welder might be faster, but it's not going to produce a better weld than a smaller welder with multiple passes that's done correctly. I'm not a welder by trade, but I get to enjoy burning some metal from time to time. I learned on a Century welder back in the 80s after first learning to push a puddle with a torch. I've been fortunate to use some nice mig and tig welders over the years, but my stuff has always been on the cheap end. I bought a used Century 250 amp AC welder from a coworker for $20 before upgrading to a brand spanking new AMCO 160 amp DC welder from amazon. It may be crap compared to a real welder, but I actually love the little thing. I normally run it on its 220v setting just to keep from tripping breakers, but since I don't run it over 120 amps, I could get by with 110 if I paced myself a little better. If it has to hold, I generally grind a bevel, lay a root with 6011, and layer in with 7014. My results aren't perfect, and aren't always petty, but they are stronger than the original material and work for my needs. Most of my welding projects involve my old 1710 tractor and firewood, or my truck and trailer for the same purpose.



My neighbor is giving away his Ford 1500 series along with a bunch of other stuff. It is kind of scaring me to be honest. The guys has been sick for a long time and he is trying to give me a lot of his stuff and not sure how to go about it. Right now he wants to give me his old tractor and a trailer for nothing in return. I want the trailer more than the tractor to be honest because I would have more use for it. I have been mowing his lawn now for many years. I was thinking if I get the trailer and it is in nice shape I can give him a little something for it, especially if he has the title. 

The other neighbor is an engineer and told me the tractor is leaking fuel on one of the cylinders or something but you really cannot go wrong with free I guess. It does not really have any implements with it. I also checked out aftermarket companies that make loaders and the two that I checked said they did not have or make one to fit the Ford 1500 series tractor. I think it is a 1520. I know for a fact he has not had it running in many years and been sitting out in the elements for a really long time now.


----------



## Hexa Fox

sean donato said:


> Yep. Picture attached
> 
> For the past 9 years since its been built my splitter lives out doors. Oil is just as clear as the day I filled her up. I don't actually have anywhere to put it under roof either, so that being said, it doesn't have a choice but to deal with the weather.



So how do you protect from the elements? Do you cover it, is it sitting under an awning etc? Sorry if you posted a picture or something that tells the story. This thread has gotten quite long, which is awesome for me by the way.


----------



## Old-Feller

Hexa Fox said:


> My neighbor is giving away his Ford 1500 series along with a bunch of other stuff. It is kind of scaring me to be honest. The guys has been sick for a long time and he is trying to give me a lot of his stuff and not sure how to go about it. Right now he wants to give me his old tractor and a trailer for nothing in return. I want the trailer more than the tractor to be honest because I would have more use for it. I have been mowing his lawn now for many years. I was thinking if I get the trailer and it is in nice shape I can give him a little something for it, especially if he has the title.
> 
> The other neighbor is an engineer and told me the tractor is leaking fuel on one of the cylinders or something but you really cannot go wrong with free I guess. It does not really have any implements with it. I also checked out aftermarket companies that make loaders and the two that I checked said they did not have or make one to fit the Ford 1500 series tractor. I think it is a 1520. I know for a fact he has not had it running in many years and been sitting out in the elements for a really long time now.


First I would like to say, It was nice of you to mow your older neighbors yard for him! I'm sure you never expected anything in return for doing it, Just doing what you thought was right! Very commendable!

Secondly: If the Tractor is Diesel? There are a lot of things that can leak on one and most of them are not hard to fix or all that expensive. I have a Ford 5000 Diesel Tractor with a set of forks for moving heavy stuff around here, Anyway I was a heavy equipment/diesel mechanic for 30 years. There are steel lines going from the injection pump to each cylinder and are usually anchored to the engine in a few places and clamped together with a steel clamping plate. These tend to vibrate a lot and can develop cracks. There is also always a return fuel line that goes back to the tank and it usually but not always is steel but has a short rubber line too a lot of times and these get old and leak. And lastly you have a suction fuel supply line coming from the tank that may or may not be steel too but also has a short rubber piece connecting it to the filter assy most of the time, Anyway, This line has no pressure, But can develop an air leak when they get old, Usually the engine will either run rough, idle a little faster or not run at all. There are sometimes short rubber hoses at the injector nozzles also for the return line but not always. Hope this info has helped you, It really isn't all that hard to find and repair a leak. I have brazed the steel lines in the past too, It will last a while but may crack again.


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## Hexa Fox

Old-Feller said:


> First I would like to say, It was nice of you to mow your older neighbors yard for him! I'm sure you never expected anything in return for doing it, Just doing what you thought was right! Very commendable!



I am not that noble, my father maybe but I, no. I would like to think he rubbed off on me a little but my father was always a more generous person than myself. Anyway I started mowing the neighbors lawn when I was 15, I am now 33. It quickly turned into a business because of the hard working ethic my father passed onto me. I started out on his little Craftsman riding tractor and quickly upgraded to a Craftsman zero turn that could have actually been a worse machine. However, after stepping up to the Ferris there is no going back on that. It holds up much, much better, you can mow much faster on it and be comfortable while doing it. Never turning back. Even if I stop mowing other peoples lawns I will always have a commercial unit like this one to do my own. 


Old-Feller said:


> Secondly: If the Tractor is Diesel?



Yes, this will be my first diesel engine though. I was told to get it. That it had a Shibaura diesel that is nearly indestructible and no electronics to cause further complications. It would be nice if I could find a loader for it though. I was also told that if I could find a loader for it I would pay an arm and a leg. Especially since I cannot find a third party manufacturer.


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## Sierra_rider

ken morgan said:


> didh you say lathe? FML... drools in three different languages...


Yep...I started out with a 7x12 bench lathe. I quickly found the limits of what I could do with that and ended up getting a good deal on this 12x36 from a friend.

I was very fortunate to get this deal, the tooling alone is close to what I paid for it. Everyone looks at how expensive lathes are, but the tooling is the other expensive part. 

I do want to get a mill in the future, but I'll have to make some room for that. For now, I actually do quite a bit of stuff on the lathe...you don't know how much you can use one until you have it. I mostly work on saw cylinders with it.


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## Old-Feller

Sierra_rider said:


> Yep...I started out with a 7x12 bench lathe. I quickly found the limits of what I could do with that and ended up getting a good deal on this 12x36 from a friend.
> 
> I was very fortunate to get this deal, the tooling alone is close to what I paid for it. Everyone looks at how expensive lathes are, but the tooling is the other expensive part.
> 
> I do want to get a mill in the future, but I'll have to make some room for that. For now, I actually do quite a bit of stuff on the lathe...you don't know how much you can use one until you have it. I mostly work on saw cylinders with it.
> 
> View attachment 1023292


I have been using saws since I was a kid, But I have just started working on saws since I am semi retired now. I mostly use my lathes for doing threading and chambering work, And muzzle brake threading and making tooling for doing Gunsmith work, I have been doing gunsmithing work as a side job since the 90's I used to do it for the gun shops and pawn shops where I used to live, I just do my own work now since I compete in Long Range matches. But I have been watching tons of videos on saw porting and machining the bottom of the cyilnders down and raising the squish band up. I may get into that too? I don't know I have enough stuff going on all the time to keep me pretty busy.

Thats a nice little lathe by the way, I have a 12x36 Taiwan Lathe that I have been very happy with that's actually very accurate, And then I have a Kent USA 13x40 Lathe that I do my barrel work on, Also a great lathe. But like you said, I have way more in tooling than both of my lathes put together!


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## Sierra_rider

Old-Feller said:


> I have been using saws since I was a kid, But I have just started working on saws since I am semi retired now. I mostly use my lathes for doing threading and chambering work, And muzzle brake threading and making tooling for doing Gunsmith work, I have been doing gunsmithing work as a side job since the 90's I used to do it for the gun shops and pawn shops where I used to live, I just do my own work now since I compete in Long Range matches. But I have been watching tons of videos on saw porting and machining the bottom of the cyilnders down and raising the squish band up. I may get into that too? I don't know I have enough stuff going on all the time to keep me pretty busy.
> 
> Thats a nice little lathe by the way, I have a 12x36 Taiwan Lathe that I have been very happy with that's actually very accurate, And then I have a Kent USA 13x40 Lathe that I do my barrel work on, Also a great lathe. But like you said, I have way more in tooling than both of my lathes put together!



Mine's a Grizzly, so it's a Taiwanese lathe as well, I like it as far as I know...I'm no machinist. It's the "gunsmith" version as well, so it has the spiders in the spindle and comes with a couple of different follower rests. 

Long range always looked interesting, but I've got too many hobbies to go and pick up another one. I used to be into shotgun sports, I used to be a competitive clay shooter. I went too seriously into it and ended up quitting it once it became like a job. 

The saw machining/porting is very fun...I enjoy the problem solving aspect of it. It's also a relaxing hobby amongst many non-relaxing hobbies I'm into...it's to me what fishing is to most people. The actual machine work is really easy IMO, it's the port work that's the most difficult to learn. I'm pretty satisfied with some of the worksaws that I can build now, now I'm just trying things like different piston swaps in order to work around the limitations on stock piston+cylinder combos.


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## Old-Feller

I don't see a name plate on your lathe But I'm Pretty sure it's a Grizzly Machine? Is there a small spider chuck with 4 bolts at the end of the thru hole bore at the left rear of the lathe? If it has one, That machine was built and sold as a Gunsmith lathe.

Edit: Now that I made the pic bigger I see it is a Grizzly Gunsmith lathe.


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## ken morgan

Old-Feller said:


> Got 2 of them, Very fun pastime. And a Mill.


thats just mean.... and just off the cuff he adds he has a mill as well... you sir are a mean and cruel individual.  (jokes)


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## ken morgan

Hexa Fox said:


> I am not that noble, my father maybe but I, no. I would like to think he rubbed off on me a little but my father was always a more generous person than myself. Anyway I started mowing the neighbors lawn when I was 15, I am now 33. It quickly turned into a business because of the hard working ethic my father passed onto me. I started out on his little Craftsman riding tractor and quickly upgraded to a Craftsman zero turn that could have actually been a worse machine. However, after stepping up to the Ferris there is no going back on that. It holds up much, much better, you can mow much faster on it and be comfortable while doing it. Never turning back. Even if I stop mowing other peoples lawns I will always have a commercial unit like this one to do my own.
> 
> 
> Yes, this will be my first diesel engine though. I was told to get it. That it had a Shibaura diesel that is nearly indestructible and no electronics to cause further complications. It would be nice if I could find a loader for it though. I was also told that if I could find a loader for it I would pay an arm and a leg. Especially since I cannot find a third party manufacturer.


Shibaura's are very common in the Miura peninsula area. you see ones that are friggin ancient as in 1950's and earlier that are all ate up by the salt air corrosion that's typical in this area and yet the engines, mission, and axle are all still tight but the fenders and hoods will be totally gone from rust...


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## sean donato

Hexa Fox said:


> So how do you protect from the elements? Do you cover it, is it sitting under an awning etc? Sorry if you posted a picture or something that tells the story. This thread has gotten quite long, which is awesome for me by the way.


It sits outside, other then the possibility of kinda tucking it under the eve of the woodshed, it gets no cover. Actually where it's sitting in that picture is where it's been since I finished the "this year" log pile that was in front of the house. It will sit at about that spot till the next year pile is finished. We'll hopefully I have splitter 2.0 built for this spring.


Sierra_rider said:


> Yep...I started out with a 7x12 bench lathe. I quickly found the limits of what I could do with that and ended up getting a good deal on this 12x36 from a friend.
> 
> I was very fortunate to get this deal, the tooling alone is close to what I paid for it. Everyone looks at how expensive lathes are, but the tooling is the other expensive part.
> 
> I do want to get a mill in the future, but I'll have to make some room for that. For now, I actually do quite a bit of stuff on the lathe...you don't know how much you can use one until you have it. I mostly work on saw cylinders with it.
> 
> View attachment 1023292


Never realize how much you miss a lathe and mill till you dont have one at your fingertips anymore. Lots of fringe benefits working at a diesel engine machine shop. I miss the old Bridgeport daily. Not so much their big lathe, but they had a half worn out bench lathe that had a dozen different chucks and about any fixture and tooling you could imagine. No idea what make it was. It's was a dead handy machine for small stuff that I monkey with.


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## ken morgan

I had the chance to get a 5 axis german made cnc mill with all the fittings, step blocks, jig blocks cutters to include flutes, fly cutter and channel cutting bits, precision offset blocks everything. It came from a shop on the base and went up to the DRMO auction. the person that bought it got the whole kit and kaboodle for about 1.8 million yen or about 15kUSD. if that setup was not worth 100K USD I am a monkey's uncle. 
It and its attendant tool boxes that house the cutters and jig blocks etc would take up half of my shop. that and I would need 480 three phase, and divorce papers from my wife....


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## Sierra_rider

sean donato said:


> It sits outside, other then the possibility of kinda tucking it under the eve of the woodshed, it gets no cover. Actually where it's sitting in that picture is where it's been since I finished the "this year" log pile that was in front of the house. It will sit at about that spot till the next year pile is finished. We'll hopefully I have splitter 2.0 built for this spring.
> 
> Never realize how much you miss a lathe and mill till you dont have one at your fingertips anymore. Lots of fringe benefits working at a diesel engine machine shop. I miss the old Bridgeport daily. Not so much their big lathe, but they had a half worn out bench lathe that had a dozen different chucks and about any fixture and tooling you could imagine. No idea what make it was. It's was a dead handy machine for small stuff that I monkey with.


Probably an old Southbend lathe? A friend of mine has an antique Southbend bench lathe, they seem to be the most common. It's a really cool looking machine...back then, even the tools had style. 

Most of the stuff I do now, I could still do on my bench lathe. Things like the saw cylinders are doable on the bench lathe, but much easier on a larger unit. I did an 066 cylinder on the bench lathe and I was at the limits of what I could do, as far as the workpiece not hitting the carriage/turret.

The other big deal with this lathe, is just the power. On my little Chinese/Taiwanese 7x12, I couldn't take very big cuts without it triggering the overload protection on the lathe.


----------



## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> My neighbor is giving away his Ford 1500 series along with a bunch of other stuff. It is kind of scaring me to be honest. The guys has been sick for a long time and he is trying to give me a lot of his stuff and not sure how to go about it. Right now he wants to give me his old tractor and a trailer for nothing in return. I want the trailer more than the tractor to be honest because I would have more use for it. I have been mowing his lawn now for many years. I was thinking if I get the trailer and it is in nice shape I can give him a little something for it, especially if he has the title.
> 
> The other neighbor is an engineer and told me the tractor is leaking fuel on one of the cylinders or something but you really cannot go wrong with free I guess. It does not really have any implements with it. I also checked out aftermarket companies that make loaders and the two that I checked said they did not have or make one to fit the Ford 1500 series tractor. I think it is a 1520. I know for a fact he has not had it running in many years and been sitting out in the elements for a really long time now.


I would take the tractor if you have room to store it. Is this the tractor? Maybe this information will help your search for a loader.







TractorData.com Ford 1500 tractor information







www.tractordata.com










TractorData.com Ford 1520 tractor information







www.tractordata.com


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## Old-Feller

Sierra_rider said:


> Probably an old Southbend lathe? A friend of mine has an antique Southbend bench lathe, they seem to be the most common. It's a really cool looking machine...back then, even the tools had style.
> 
> Most of the stuff I do now, I could still do on my bench lathe. Things like the saw cylinders are doable on the bench lathe, but much easier on a larger unit. I did an 066 cylinder on the bench lathe and I was at the limits of what I could do, as far as the workpiece not hitting the carriage/turret.
> 
> The other big deal with this lathe, is just the power. On my little Chinese/Taiwanese 7x12, I couldn't take very big cuts without it triggering the overload protection on the lathe.


My first Lathe was a Southbend 13 I believe it was made in the 30's. It was a good old lathe but not suited to gun work as the spindle bores are small and there was too much going on in the back of the lathe to use a spider chuck. I had to do chambering using the steady rest instead of going through the spindle like I do now, Other than that it was still a very capable lathe.


----------



## Hexa Fox

VirginiaIron said:


> I would take the tractor if you have room to store it. Is this the tractor? Maybe this information will help your search for a loader.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TractorData.com Ford 1500 tractor information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.tractordata.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TractorData.com Ford 1520 tractor information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.tractordata.com



So I do not have room to store it. I have one decent sized shed (16x20) I believe and it is maxed out. I keep a snow blower and my Ferris in there full time. I have been wanting to build a large shed to store a lot of equipment for awhile now. I would like something big enough for a few mowers, Ventrac (one day) and attachments. Now that lumber is finally beginning to come down I might start something. Next problem is there is a big @$$ stump where I want this structure to go. Probably going to end up building a pole barn or something.


----------



## sean donato

Sierra_rider said:


> Probably an old Southbend lathe? A friend of mine has an antique Southbend bench lathe, they seem to be the most common. It's a really cool looking machine...back then, even the tools had style.
> 
> Most of the stuff I do now, I could still do on my bench lathe. Things like the saw cylinders are doable on the bench lathe, but much easier on a larger unit. I did an 066 cylinder on the bench lathe and I was at the limits of what I could do, as far as the workpiece not hitting the carriage/turret.
> 
> The other big deal with this lathe, is just the power. On my little Chinese/Taiwanese 7x12, I couldn't take very big cuts without it triggering the overload protection on the lathe.


No idea on the brand or model. It had back gears, could cut threads, forward or reverse. The back gears you physically had to change a setting and swap a belt from one gear set to another. Wish I had a picture of it. I abused it quite a lot. It would hold a piston out of a 5.9L cummins with no issues. Used to de-lip and cut the tops down for high boost applications.


----------



## Old-Feller

sean donato said:


> No idea on the brand or model. It had back gears, could cut threads, forward or reverse. The back gears you physically had to change a setting and swap a belt from one gear set to another. Wish I had a picture of it. I abused it quite a lot. It would hold a piston out of a 5.9L cummins with no issues. Used to de-lip and cut the tops down for high boost applications.


Yeah Mine had a lever that engaged the back gear and the at the front of the head there was a knurled knob that you would either screw in or unscrew to disengage the pulley for the back gears. I think thats the way it was it's been a long time since I had that lathe, It was a South Bend. It had a leather drive belt and you would pull a lever to loosen the belt and you could slide it over the different sized diameter pulleys to change the speeds.


----------



## sean donato

Old-Feller said:


> Yeah Mine had a lever that engaged the back gear and the at the front of the head there was a knurled knob that you would either screw in or unscrew to disengage the pulley for the back gears. I think thats the way it was it's been a long time since I had that lathe, It was a South Bend. It had a leather drive belt and you would pull a lever to loosen the belt and you could slide it over the different sized diameter pulleys to change the speeds.


I was looking at some pictures on the web of South bend lathes and I think your correct. Found a picture of a 10" x 20" and it looks darn close to the one the shop had. Seems this one has guards where the one at the shop didn't over where you changed the belt over. And the forward/reverse switch wasn't sticking up like the picture, but pretty much the same thing.


----------



## fields_mj

Hexa Fox said:


> My neighbor is giving away his Ford 1500 series along with a bunch of other stuff. It is kind of scaring me to be honest. The guys has been sick for a long time and he is trying to give me a lot of his stuff and not sure how to go about it. Right now he wants to give me his old tractor and a trailer for nothing in return. I want the trailer more than the tractor to be honest because I would have more use for it. I have been mowing his lawn now for many years. I was thinking if I get the trailer and it is in nice shape I can give him a little something for it, especially if he has the title.
> 
> The other neighbor is an engineer and told me the tractor is leaking fuel on one of the cylinders or something but you really cannot go wrong with free I guess. It does not really have any implements with it. I also checked out aftermarket companies that make loaders and the two that I checked said they did not have or make one to fit the Ford 1500 series tractor. I think it is a 1520. I know for a fact he has not had it running in many years and been sitting out in the elements for a really long time now.


As for the tractor, definitely get it, but plan on getting a loader for it also. Look for a Ford 770A or 770B, preferably the B as they go on and come off easier. The 1500, 1510, and 1520 were good little machines. As I recall the 1020 series (1520, 1720, 1920) were made from 86 to 89. Towards the end, they wore a New Holland name plate. Common wear parts are still available from NH dealers. The engines are good to at least 3000 hrs. 

There are 3 week points on these tractors. The first is the head. The most common death of these tractors is a cracked head after around 3000 hours. Keep the filter screen on the radiator cleaned off, and your antifreeze topped off, and check your oil frequently. FWIW, my machine has spent its entire life outdoors and it leaks engine and hydraulic oil pretty bad, but it serves my needs very well. 

Another week point is the bolts that hold the engine to the frame. The engine block is cast, and the bolts don't like to stay torqued. If they come loose, they will quickly wear the internal threads on the block. I was able to put inserts in mine and then used lock tight to keep them in. I think I used one of the green formulations, but don't recall for sure. Best bet is to keep them tight to begin with. 

If it has power steering, the 3rd week point is the hydraulic system where the hydraulic pump connects to the diverter valve for the power steering. If the engine bolts come loose and start to strip, you'll replace the orings in this connection about ever 8 hrs of use (ask me how I know). This is because the pump is mounted to the engine and the valve is mounted to the frame. Relative motion between the two abrades the orings rather quickly. Replacing the orings takes about 30 min, but is a bit of a pain in the rear. Installing inserts/helicoils had quadrupled the life of the orings. 

Lastly, while not really a week point, the suction filter on the hydraulic system does like to clog up. In the winter it becomes a real problem. Not a big deal since you can easily get them at NAPA, and they are super easy to change. If/when you add a loader, if it gets to where it runs really slow, change your filter. 

Another watch out is the rims. People used to use Calcium Chloride in them for ballast, and it eats the rims which are expensive to replace. If the rims are good, and you want ballast in the tire, load them with washer fluid, or rimgard/beet juice. Rims are pretty expensive which means moving from turf to ag tires, or the other way around can be an expensive upgrade since they don't use the same wheels. I had turf tires and it cost me $1,200 to buy a full set of heavily used Ag tires and wheels, and have them shipped to Indiana from Texas. 2/3 of that price was the shipping. 

This may sound like a lot of headaches, but its not. It's just the way it goes with older machinery. Heck, it goes this way with new machinery if you don't take care of it. IMHO, new machinery is a real pain to deal with because of all the EPA regs they've been forced to meet. This comes with electronic fuel injection, and sensors that can fail. These old diesels are all mechanical which makes them a lot more reliable. Over all mechanical diesel is super simple because it has no ignition system, and no electronics of any kind are required to get the machine to run. Just air, atomized fuel, and compression. To shut these machines down, you literally push the throttle in so far that it stops the flow of fuel. If the glow plugs work, your golden. If the glow plugs don't work, a quick shot of either into the intake (above the battery) will get it running even in temps below zero. DON'T USE EITHER AND GLOWPLUGS together. Main thing with any diesel is to not run it out of fuel. On top of being hard on the fuel pump and injectors, purging the air out is a slow and tedious process. Get impatient and you'll burn the starter up. Go too slow, and you'll drain the battery before you get all the air out. 

If you're wondering what the machines are worth, take a look on tractorhouse.com. You should be able to get a decent idea from there. Mine is a 4wd model, but the 4wd doesn't work. Previous owner was a young guy who had acquired it with the purchase of a small horse farm. He didn't know how the machine worked and had the 3ph control lever in its "Aux" position, but the machine doesn't have an auxiliary line hooked up so it was deadheading. His young wife wanted it gone so I got it for $2K. One of the few good deals I've found that didn't require more work than it was worth. If mine ever dies on me, I'll have no moral issues coughing up $10K or more for a slightly more modern replacement. That's how useful the machine has become for me. I'm in my late 40s and still in decent shape, but I'm sure that my machine has saved me one or more trips to the ER in the last 5 years, and is no doubt helping me to postpone or avoid additional corrective surgeries that would have otherwise been required in the future. 

Sorry, I know this is way off topic of the original post, but can't let this poor fellow pass up on something like this  





. .


----------



## Old-Feller

sean donato said:


> I was looking at some pictures on the web of South bend lathes and I think your correct. Found a picture of a 10" x 20" and it looks darn close to the one the shop had. Seems this one has guards where the one at the shop didn't over where you changed the belt over. And the forward/reverse switch wasn't sticking up like the picture, but pretty much the same thing.


Yep, Mine looked and operated exactly the same way as the pictured one except mine was quite a bit larger and had a 5 foot bed. It's sitting outside getting more and more ruined every year, But the bearings in the head were worn and the bed-ways were becoming Sow-Bellied and were no longer accurate, I sold enough parts and accessories off it to pay for the one I replaced it with. Pretty much everything from the bed-ways up is gone.

It was a good machine for what it was and it was the one I learned on.


----------



## Hexa Fox

fields_mj said:


> As for the tractor, definitely get it, but plan on getting a loader for it also. Look for a Ford 770A or 770B, preferably the B as they go on and come off easier. The 1500, 1510, and 1520 were good little machines. As I recall the 1020 series (1520, 1720, 1920) were made from 86 to 89. Towards the end, they wore a New Holland name plate. Common wear parts are still available from NH dealers. The engines are good to at least 3000 hrs.
> 
> There are 3 week points on these tractors. The first is the head. The most common death of these tractors is a cracked head after around 3000 hours. Keep the filter screen on the radiator cleaned off, and your antifreeze topped off, and check your oil frequently. FWIW, my machine has spent its entire life outdoors and it leaks engine and hydraulic oil pretty bad, but it serves my needs very well.
> 
> Another week point is the bolts that hold the engine to the frame. The engine block is cast, and the bolts don't like to stay torqued. If they come loose, they will quickly wear the internal threads on the block. I was able to put inserts in mine and then used lock tight to keep them in. I think I used one of the green formulations, but don't recall for sure. Best bet is to keep them tight to begin with.
> 
> If it has power steering, the 3rd week point is the hydraulic system where the hydraulic pump connects to the diverter valve for the power steering. If the engine bolts come loose and start to strip, you'll replace the orings in this connection about ever 8 hrs of use (ask me how I know). This is because the pump is mounted to the engine and the valve is mounted to the frame. Relative motion between the two abrades the orings rather quickly. Replacing the orings takes about 30 min, but is a bit of a pain in the rear. Installing inserts/helicoils had quadrupled the life of the orings.
> 
> Lastly, while not really a week point, the suction filter on the hydraulic system does like to clog up. In the winter it becomes a real problem. Not a big deal since you can easily get them at NAPA, and they are super easy to change. If/when you add a loader, if it gets to where it runs really slow, change your filter.
> 
> Another watch out is the rims. People used to use Calcium Chloride in them for ballast, and it eats the rims which are expensive to replace. If the rims are good, and you want ballast in the tire, load them with washer fluid, or rimgard/beet juice. Rims are pretty expensive which means moving from turf to ag tires, or the other way around can be an expensive upgrade since they don't use the same wheels. I had turf tires and it cost me $1,200 to buy a full set of heavily used Ag tires and wheels, and have them shipped to Indiana from Texas. 2/3 of that price was the shipping.
> 
> This may sound like a lot of headaches, but its not. It's just the way it goes with older machinery. Heck, it goes this way with new machinery if you don't take care of it. IMHO, new machinery is a real pain to deal with because of all the EPA regs they've been forced to meet. This comes with electronic fuel injection, and sensors that can fail. These old diesels are all mechanical which makes them a lot more reliable. Over all mechanical diesel is super simple because it has no ignition system, and no electronics of any kind are required to get the machine to run. Just air, atomized fuel, and compression. To shut these machines down, you literally push the throttle in so far that it stops the flow of fuel. If the glow plugs work, your golden. If the glow plugs don't work, a quick shot of either into the intake (above the battery) will get it running even in temps below zero. DON'T USE EITHER AND GLOWPLUGS together. Main thing with any diesel is to not run it out of fuel. On top of being hard on the fuel pump and injectors, purging the air out is a slow and tedious process. Get impatient and you'll burn the starter up. Go too slow, and you'll drain the battery before you get all the air out.
> 
> If you're wondering what the machines are worth, take a look on tractorhouse.com. You should be able to get a decent idea from there. Mine is a 4wd model, but the 4wd doesn't work. Previous owner was a young guy who had acquired it with the purchase of a small horse farm. He didn't know how the machine worked and had the 3ph control lever in its "Aux" position, but the machine doesn't have an auxiliary line hooked up so it was deadheading. His young wife wanted it gone so I got it for $2K. One of the few good deals I've found that didn't require more work than it was worth. If mine ever dies on me, I'll have no moral issues coughing up $10K or more for a slightly more modern replacement. That's how useful the machine has become for me. I'm in my late 40s and still in decent shape, but I'm sure that my machine has saved me one or more trips to the ER in the last 5 years, and is no doubt helping me to postpone or avoid additional corrective surgeries that would have otherwise been required in the future.
> 
> Sorry, I know this is way off topic of the original post, but can't let this poor fellow pass up on something like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . .


Thank you for all the great information. I just bought a County Line log splitter, pictures to come soon. However, it is taking my last free spot right now. So I am going to have to find a place to put it.


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## Old-Feller

Hexa Fox, I see you are in "Charles Town" Is that the same as Charleston? I believe it was Charleston that I used to pick up a plastic called "Zytel" from the Dupont plant there a long time ago when I was driving Truck.


----------



## Hexa Fox

Old-Feller said:


> Hexa Fox, I see you are in "Charles Town" Is that the same as Charleston? I believe it was Charleston that I used to pick up a plastic called "Zytel" from the Dupont plant there a long time ago when I was driving Truck.



No sir! Charles Town (where I am) is located on the Eastern Panhandle. I am about five minutes from Virginia and an hour and a half from D.C. People often make the horrible mistake and get them confused. My father used to work at the local casino and you cannot imagine the stories he would tell. For example, one time a car full of women came in and were asking for directions for a wedding and scared they were going to be late. Well they were definitely going to be late because my father had to inform them they were in Charles Town and not Charleston. 

Anyway, now that my little story is over. I could not be happier with the County Line 25 Ton Log Splitter. It is an amazing piece of equipment. I was at Tractor Supply today and they only had the new County Line or that used Oregon. The Oregon just keeps getting worse. The lady there today said she would take an additional $150 off it. So a discount of $350 all together but like I said there were too many red flags. Today I took off the crankcase dipstick and oil came pouring out before I even got it out. Also the hydraulic filter on the Oregon is an "internal" one. I am personally sick of internal filters. I closely inspected it today and the finish on the Oregon really is inferior to the County Line. This may not be the case for all but if you read the reviews people say similar things. 

Also the first thing I did today was take an adjustable wrench and check as many of the fittings as I could. I may go over them again too. So I have some concerns I was hoping to share with you gentlemen. 

1.) The hydraulic cylinder seems to get very hot. Too hot to touch, is that normal? 

2.) I took out the oil dipstick on this Kohler as well and it started dripping a little. Does that automatically mean it is overfilled? It was no where near as bad as the Oregon unit. 

3.) I have already covered the vent cap, should I make certain it is uncovered while in use? 

4.) Anyone want to talk about maintenance? Like do I need to lube the wheel bearings somehow? I have not seen a single zerk fitting anywhere. 

This thing is so cool. I am literally scared of running out of wood to split around here now. I can already see and agree with what people have said about towing it. You can get it up to 45 MPH on perfect rode conditions. I think one user pointed out when you are going over bumpy roads you need to slow to a crawl and this is true. When you are on a rough road you can tell by the banging it makes that it is in need of a suspension. 

I can also see the dangers already. When the wedge comes into contact with wood but does not split it right away the wood binds against it and the metal plate. The wood is literally under all that pressure. I have a couple pieces 'explode' on me today and can hopefully learn what to look out for.


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## Lionsfan

1.) They get pretty frickin' hot, if you start to see flames, I'd start worrying.
2.)Machine should be setting fairly level, and there should be graduated markings on the dipstick. Mine usually drips when I check it, cuz I usually forget to make sure it's level.
3.)I would make sure the vent is open when running, the vent will puke out fluid if you tow them really fast over really bumpy ground.
4.)I suppose a guy could grease them like he would on a riding mower. When the wheels fall off mine and I'm dragging the beam through the mud, I'll probably have a look.

All b.s. aside, congrats on your purchase, it's a good machine that will serve you well with minimal care. Make sure to shut your fuel off while transporting or you are guaranteed a crankcase full of raw gas. Keep excess debris off the muffler, it can catch fire if it's really dry. If you didn't get the bolt on cradle, go back and buy one or build your own if you're handy. Keep a junky screwdriver handy to dig the bark and wood fibers out of the beam rails, it gets packed in there pretty tight sometimes.


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## Old-Feller

You will get used to using it pretty quick, And it will be one of those things you wish you would have bought sooner.

As far as the oil goes, When I got my pressure washer with the Kohler Engine, The oil that came with it was like water! I threw that in the trash and put good 4 stroke oil in it. Once it was broke in, I switched it out for Full synthetic 4 stroke oil, Which I put in everything I own including Synthetic 2 stroke mix! Don't use Full synthetic oil until it's broken in or the rings won't seat, Four stroke oil really is that good, It's so good that you won't get the small amount of wear required to seat the rings. Car oils used to say "Do not use this oil until the engine has 5000 miles on it" I don't know if it still says that anymore but it was in the 90's when I switched over to it when I remember the bottles having that warning.

As far as the cylinder getting hot, Yes it will get pretty hot, That's one thing I hate about factory Log splitters, They put the smallest reservoir they think they can get away with. I made a 15 gallon tank for mine and it helps tremendously with keeping the oil and the hydraulic components cooler and doesn't let the fluid break down as quickly.

I would weld a trailer axle under it for 2 reasons, 1: Get the splitter up to where you aren't killing your back, 2: you can tow it on the freeway, I have towed mine 80 MPH on Utah freeways, That's the speed limit here. It will still bounce a little but not bad, At least not mine anyway. I run a little bit lower pressure in the tires to give it a little cushion.


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## sean donato

Sounds like your well in hand. One suggestion I have is to give that wedge a bit of an edge. Doesn't have to cut hairs, but a nice slicing action and let the wide part of the wedge rip the log apart the rest of the way. Safer with it cutting rather then exploding. I have my edge down to about a 1/8". Powered right through anything. 

Ditto on the cradle. Just get/make one.

Let the oil the engine came with in it for a while. I really want to say 25 hours or something around there change it. But the owners manual should say something about the break in period. Then swap out for a good oil.

I like the trailer axle idea. 
Have fun, and be safe!


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## Hexa Fox

Lionsfan said:


> 1.) They get pretty frickin' hot, if you start to see flames, I'd start worrying.
> 2.)Machine should be setting fairly level, and there should be graduated markings on the dipstick. Mine usually drips when I check it, cuz I usually forget to make sure it's level.
> 3.)I would make sure the vent is open when running, the vent will puke out fluid if you tow them really fast over really bumpy ground.
> 4.)I suppose a guy could grease them like he would on a riding mower. When the wheels fall off mine and I'm dragging the beam through the mud, I'll probably have a look.
> 
> All b.s. aside, congrats on your purchase, it's a good machine that will serve you well with minimal care. Make sure to shut your fuel off while transporting or you are guaranteed a crankcase full of raw gas. Keep excess debris off the muffler, it can catch fire if it's really dry. If you didn't get the bolt on cradle, go back and buy one or build your own if you're handy. Keep a junky screwdriver handy to dig the bark and wood fibers out of the beam rails, it gets packed in there pretty tight sometimes.



Thanks gentlemen, I really appreciate all the feedback!


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## Hexa Fox

sean donato said:


> Sounds like your well in hand. One suggestion I have is to give that wedge a bit of an edge.


Can you do that? As in the wedge is totally solid and can have material removed? So you just take an angle grinder down the side to get an edge?


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## VirginiaIron

Hexa Fox said:


> Can you do that? As in the wedge is totally solid and can have material removed? So you just take an angle grinder down the side to get an edge?


My two splitters have wedges with ground edges. I put those sharp edges on them to help cut any rounds or fibers that would otherwise tear or shear apart.


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## Hexa Fox

So my initial impression of the Kohler SH 6.5 is that I am impressed. It starts easily and sounds relatively good. It also looks nice and well built. However, there is a slight hum to the engine. It is hard to describe but it sounds like it is coming from somewhere else but becomes apparent after awhile that it is coming from this engine. Don't think I have ever heard anything quite like it, might describe it better as a whistle. I always wear hearing protection now, even while using smaller walk behind push mowers. So could be that but still strange to me. 

So I bought a 4 way wedge from Tractor Supply with the splitter as well. Honestly, I know some warned me but I am thinking about trying to return it. Because it makes the logs harder to handle (may change with a log catcher), the wings are not long enough to completely separate the wood into four pieces and it does seem like it could be heavier. I find some logs are perfect to be rolled 180 degrees after being split to get split into four pieces all together and works out pretty good. 

So the fuel capacity looks like 0.85 gallons. So should I shut off the fuel for storage or just treat the fuel for storage and make certain some of the treated fuel gets into the carburetor? Again sorry if you guys mentioned this before. I think a couple of you did. I have been going back through and reading but there is a lot here lol. It is fine because it is the kind of stuff I enjoy reading. I haven't had to weld since high school and to be honest I do not have any extra room for anything else. I need to get rid of some of the junk we have collected over the years.


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## Old-Feller

If you don't have "Ethanol Free" What we call "Blue Gas" here, Then you shut the gas supply off and let it run out of fuel when you are done using the splitter.


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## JRM

I agree, Your best bet would be to install a fuel shut off if it doesn't already have one. If sitting long term let the carb run dry. My dad did this on all his equipment he's ever owned, he's got 50-60 year old engines with original carbs. I think it's the best thing you can do for any engine that has a carb.


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## Old-Feller

These little Kohler's come with a shut-off.


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## VirginiaIron

My Champion has a shut off and so does the Predator.


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## sean donato

Hexa Fox said:


> Can you do that? As in the wedge is totally solid and can have material removed? So you just take an angle grinder down the side to get an edge?


Yes. Doesn't have to be knife sharp, but get an edge on it.


----------



## parkercam

Hexa Fox said:


> So my initial impression of the Kohler SH 6.5 is that I am impressed. It starts easily and sounds relatively good. It also looks nice and well built. However, there is a slight hum to the engine. It is hard to describe but it sounds like it is coming from somewhere else but becomes apparent after awhile that it is coming from this engine. Don't think I have ever heard anything quite like it, might describe it better as a whistle. I always wear hearing protection now, even while using smaller walk behind push mowers. So could be that but still strange to me.
> 
> So I bought a 4 way wedge from Tractor Supply with the splitter as well. Honestly, I know some warned me but I am thinking about trying to return it. Because it makes the logs harder to handle (may change with a log catcher), the wings are not long enough to completely separate the wood into four pieces and it does seem like it could be heavier. I find some logs are perfect to be rolled 180 degrees after being split to get split into four pieces all together and works out pretty good.
> 
> So the fuel capacity looks like 0.85 gallons. So should I shut off the fuel for storage or just treat the fuel for storage and make certain some of the treated fuel gets into the carburetor? Again sorry if you guys mentioned this before. I think a couple of you did. I have been going back through and reading but there is a lot here lol. It is fine because it is the kind of stuff I enjoy reading. I haven't had to weld since high school and to be honest I do not have any extra room for anything else. I need to get rid of some of the junk we have collected over the years.


Good to hear you are happy with it! We have put about 2 tanks through the Oregon 30ton so far and I am happy with it overall! I say "we" because i have actually gotten the wife using it. No chance she was going to be willing or able to split by hand, and I welcome the help. She has no issues starting the kohler which is definitely a good sign so far.

My only gripe is that wood gets stuck at the end between the rails and the beam. There are holes for stuff to fall out of, but there is a space that still gets clogged pretty easily. I looked briefly at the Champion model at HD and it seemed to be the same way, so maybe this is normal? I am going to try and keep it cleaned out mostly to stop moisture from getting trapped in there and rusting it away.

I am curious about the 4-way as well, it is good to read the info on here about using one. I haven't bought one, but it is a tempting idea at times.


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## 2100hpS10

We bought a Champion 34 ton splitter last year and am throughly impressed with it. We have run 2 trees threw it with no issues at all. It has a Chinese engine and looks like a clone of a Honda. I guess the key to any engine is good maintenance. 
Glad to hear about the 4-way splitter working ok for you. I was tempted to try, but have not yet. So maybe this year will try. Thanks for posting.


----------



## sean donato

Hexa Fox said:


> So my initial impression of the Kohler SH 6.5 is that I am impressed. It starts easily and sounds relatively good. It also looks nice and well built. However, there is a slight hum to the engine. It is hard to describe but it sounds like it is coming from somewhere else but becomes apparent after awhile that it is coming from this engine. Don't think I have ever heard anything quite like it, might describe it better as a whistle. I always wear hearing protection now, even while using smaller walk behind push mowers. So could be that but still strange to me.
> 
> So I bought a 4 way wedge from Tractor Supply with the splitter as well. Honestly, I know some warned me but I am thinking about trying to return it. Because it makes the logs harder to handle (may change with a log catcher), the wings are not long enough to completely separate the wood into four pieces and it does seem like it could be heavier. I find some logs are perfect to be rolled 180 degrees after being split to get split into four pieces all together and works out pretty good.
> 
> So the fuel capacity looks like 0.85 gallons. So should I shut off the fuel for storage or just treat the fuel for storage and make certain some of the treated fuel gets into the carburetor? Again sorry if you guys mentioned this before. I think a couple of you did. I have been going back through and reading but there is a lot here lol. It is fine because it is the kind of stuff I enjoy reading. I haven't had to weld since high school and to be honest I do not have any extra room for anything else. I need to get rid of some of the junk we have collected over the years.


4 way wedges that arnt adjustable are worthless unless you have that perfect size log, then you still have the few rounds you just want to half, but your taking a sliver off the top and making 2 big pieces and 2 splinters. At least the style your using is slip on and not bolt on like how I made mine for my current splitter.


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## Hexa Fox

Old-Feller said:


> These little Kohler's come with a shut-off.


I will keep that in mind. So shut the gas off, let the engine starve the carburetor out of fuel, then treat what is left in the tank or drain? 

Also I started another thread about my chimney in case anyone wants to stop by. Been posting pictures and stuff there too. 





Wood Stove and Chimney Cleaning


Hey guys so long story short I have been doing this for awhile now but now the responsibility has become solely mine. So I started burning this year already and noticed a good deal of smoke coming back into the house. So I checked the chimney and made the mistake of brining a floodlight rather...




www.arboristsite.com





Found me a Ready Whip cap that seems to work pretty well right now if I do not say for myself.


----------



## blades

slip on, beat it off whith a sledge when you want to remove it. Whine is likely the hydro pump. which is normal for them.


----------



## Lionsfan

Hexa Fox said:


> So my initial impression of the Kohler SH 6.5 is that I am impressed. It starts easily and sounds relatively good. It also looks nice and well built. However, there is a slight hum to the engine. It is hard to describe but it sounds like it is coming from somewhere else but becomes apparent after awhile that it is coming from this engine. Don't think I have ever heard anything quite like it, might describe it better as a whistle. I always wear hearing protection now, even while using smaller walk behind push mowers. So could be that but still strange to me.
> 
> So I bought a 4 way wedge from Tractor Supply with the splitter as well. Honestly, I know some warned me but I am thinking about trying to return it. Because it makes the logs harder to handle (may change with a log catcher), the wings are not long enough to completely separate the wood into four pieces and it does seem like it could be heavier. I find some logs are perfect to be rolled 180 degrees after being split to get split into four pieces all together and works out pretty good.
> 
> So the fuel capacity looks like 0.85 gallons. So should I shut off the fuel for storage or just treat the fuel for storage and make certain some of the treated fuel gets into the carburetor? Again sorry if you guys mentioned this before. I think a couple of you did. I have been going back through and reading but there is a lot here lol. It is fine because it is the kind of stuff I enjoy reading. I haven't had to weld since high school and to be honest I do not have any extra room for anything else. I need to get rid of some of the junk we have collected over the years.


I've never agreed with the run it out of fuel theory for off-season storage. I like to make sure that last tank of gas before winter lay-up is Rec-fuel with a dose of Stabil, and I shut it off with the carb bowl full of fuel.


----------



## JRM

Many manufacturers suggest running the carb empty if sitting more than 30-60 days. This information is found in your owners manual....
Here is one of many examples from Honda. 



> For long term storage, avoid fuel deterioration problems by draining the fuel tank and carburetor. See below. See our fuel recommendations page for more information on preventing fuel related issues.








Honda Engines | Storage and Transportation Tips | GX, GXV, GC and GS models


Information on proper storage and transporation for Honda engines and equipment powered by Honda engines.




engines.honda.com





Honda considers long term storage anything longer than 30 days. More reading here. You will find similar info from most any other reputable small engine manufacturer. 






Honda Engines | Fuel Recommendations


Information and recommendations on gasoline, ethanol, and fuel storage for your Honda Engine.




engines.honda.com





I don't necessarily go so far as to drain the tank. I do use a good marine fuel stabilizer and of course, E0 gas, always. Shut it off, run it dry, and drain the fuel bowl. (Still running original carbs @ 2k hrs on my mower doing this method). 
My reasoning for not draining the tank is, any varnish or solids formed by the separation of the gas should be caught by the filter before it hits the carb. If the fuel has sat in the carb for the last 6 months it's got nowhere to go but through the jet.


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## farmer steve

Hexa Fox said:


> So my initial impression of the Kohler SH 6.5 is that I am impressed. It starts easily and sounds relatively good. It also looks nice and well built. However, there is a slight hum to the engine. It is hard to describe but it sounds like it is coming from somewhere else but becomes apparent after awhile that it is coming from this engine. Don't think I have ever heard anything quite like it, might describe it better as a whistle. I always wear hearing protection now, even while using smaller walk behind push mowers. So could be that but still strange to me.
> 
> So I bought a 4 way wedge from Tractor Supply with the splitter as well. Honestly, I know some warned me but I am thinking about trying to return it. Because it makes the logs harder to handle (may change with a log catcher), the wings are not long enough to completely separate the wood into four pieces and it does seem like it could be heavier. I find some logs are perfect to be rolled 180 degrees after being split to get split into four pieces all together and works out pretty good.
> 
> So the fuel capacity looks like 0.85 gallons. So should I shut off the fuel for storage or just treat the fuel for storage and make certain some of the treated fuel gets into the carburetor? Again sorry if you guys mentioned this before. I think a couple of you did. I have been going back through and reading but there is a lot here lol. It is fine because it is the kind of stuff I enjoy reading. I haven't had to weld since high school and to be honest I do not have any extra room for anything else. I need to get rid of some of the junk we have collected over the years.


Mine has a weird noise also. Like @blades said,possibly the pump. Hasn't blown up after about a 100 cords. Knock on wood I'm going out to split now.


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## VirginiaIron

farmer steve said:


> Mine has a weird noise also. Like @blades said,possibly the pump. Hasn't blown up after about a 100 cords. Knock on wood I'm going out to split now.


I wonder if that wine noise is coupling noise? If it is, a tiny squirt of wd40 should eliminate it.


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## sean donato

VirginiaIron said:


> I wonder if that wine noise is coupling noise? If it is, a tiny squirt of wd40 should eliminate it.


Silicone spray would be a better option for the rubber. We have some big love joy style couplings here at work. Only thing recomended for them is silicon spray.


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## Hexa Fox

Since this thread has touched on every other redneck topic known to man. Here is the tractor I referenced earlier.


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## sean donato

Been a long time since I seen a big wheel ford...


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## Hexa Fox

Okay so I just got a log catcher and I was a little confused by the hardware. It came with two bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers. I used all of it besides the nuts. I am guessing that is there in case you are installing on a different log splitter? I am going to be like that guy that installs this wrong and breaks it. 

So I installed it on the same side as the engine and used the bolts on that same side. They thread through the log catcher holes, then through the log splitter beam and into the nuts welded on the other side? At least that is the way I did it. Also got a cover over it for the chance of rain tomorrow.


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## jolj

Went & got the 26 ton with the 6.5 horse OHV engine Splitter.
I told him that at least one person thought I paid to much for a five year old splitter that was used two season, but I think I got a good deal.
He replied that it was only four years old & he split one truck load the first year & a half load the second year.
It fire up the pull & sounds good
I found the Hydraulic Fluid at Tractor Supply in quart bottles($5.00).
Other oils where two gallon($39.00) & ($64.00) five gallon.


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## JRM

Kinda makes the 5 gallon pail seem like a deal! 
Congrats on the new rig.


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## jolj

JRM said:


> Kinda makes the 5 gallon pail seem like a deal!
> Congrats on the new rig.


Yes, but I do not need that much oil for one little splitter.


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## blitzen

Here is a video of the log splitter I use it has a 36-inch opening. I usually run it just above idle and increase for the type of wood I split. If you go to split-fires web site they list the rental companies that have their splitters. You could rent one and save some money vs. buying. Unless you have lots of wood to split then buying may be your best option.


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## VirginiaIron

I need one of those pickeroons


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## blitzen

The blue one is a Log-Rite it has a little barb in the hook part and that really makes a difference in how it holds the wood. I have other makes, but they don't hold like the Log-Rite.


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## jolj

My son went out to use the log splitter & it was cold & would not crank, it turned over, but no spark.
It was 12F & tonight it is 22F, so maybe when it warms up.
Someone said to heat up the engine with a torch, anyone done this trick? Sounds like it could go wrong fast!


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## kspakland

These things work GREAT to warm things up.


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## quahog

jolj said:


> My son went out to use the log splitter & it was cold & would not crank, it turned over, but no spark.
> It was 12F & tonight it is 22F, so maybe when it warms up.
> Someone said to heat up the engine with a torch, anyone done this trick? Sounds like it could go wrong fast!



You should have no problems starting a small engine above zero. 12 or 22 isn't really cold. 

No spark would be an indicator of something other than the ambient temp. Is it really no spark as in pull the plug and see it?

Torch would be great. Right on the gas tank, but open it first. J/K, don't do this.


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## VirginiaIron

jolj said:


> My son went out to use the log splitter & it was cold & would not crank, it turned over, but no spark.
> It was 12F & tonight it is 22F, so maybe when it warms up.
> Someone said to heat up the engine with a torch, anyone done this trick? Sounds like it could go wrong fast."



I would use a light bulb under a tarp to warm the engine and oil reservoir. With the proper oil, it should start. But you must reach a certain rpm for the engine to start and get spark. Another problem can be the control valve is not in the center or neutral and it would cause the engine to spin under load, plus the thick oil.


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## GeeVee

parkercam said:


> I just happened upon this thread and noted a similarity and it currently has me stumped. I was at Home Depot on Saturday and they also had an Oregon 30ton splitter that had been returned to the store. I went home with it with a 15% discount. Seemed about as good a deal as any in this market. I have run about half a tank of gas through it and nothing seems off about it...I am not sure why it would have been returned and hope I'm not missing something before the window closes for me to return it if there are issues i am missing.





Hexa Fox said:


> No sir! Charles Town (where I am) is located on the Eastern Panhandle. I am about five minutes from Virginia and an hour and a half from D.C. People often make the horrible mistake and get them confused. My father used to work at the local casino and you cannot imagine the stories he would tell. For example, one time a car full of women came in and were asking for directions for a wedding and scared they were going to be late. Well they were definitely going to be late because my father had to inform them they were in Charles Town and not Charleston.
> 
> Anyway, now that my little story is over. I could not be happier with the County Line 25 Ton Log Splitter. It is an amazing piece of equipment. I was at Tractor Supply today and they only had the new County Line or that used Oregon. The Oregon just keeps getting worse. The lady there today said she would take an additional $150 off it. So a discount of $350 all together but like I said there were too many red flags. Today I took off the crankcase dipstick and oil came pouring out before I even got it out. Also the hydraulic filter on the Oregon is an "internal" one. I am personally sick of internal filters. I closely inspected it today and the finish on the Oregon really is inferior to the County Line. This may not be the case for all but if you read the reviews people say similar things.
> 
> Also the first thing I did today was take an adjustable wrench and check as many of the fittings as I could. I may go over them again too. So I have some concerns I was hoping to share with you gentlemen.
> 
> 1.) The hydraulic cylinder seems to get very hot. Too hot to touch, is that normal?
> 
> 2.) I took out the oil dipstick on this Kohler as well and it started dripping a little. Does that automatically mean it is overfilled? It was no where near as bad as the Oregon unit.
> 
> 3.) I have already covered the vent cap, should I make certain it is uncovered while in use?
> 
> 4.) Anyone want to talk about maintenance? Like do I need to lube the wheel bearings somehow? I have not seen a single zerk fitting anywhere.
> 
> This thing is so cool. I am literally scared of running out of wood to split around here now. I can already see and agree with what people have said about towing it. You can get it up to 45 MPH on perfect rode conditions. I think one user pointed out when you are going over bumpy roads you need to slow to a crawl and this is true. When you are on a rough road you can tell by the banging it makes that it is in need of a suspension.
> 
> I can also see the dangers already. When the wedge comes into contact with wood but does not split it right away the wood binds against it and the metal plate. The wood is literally under all that pressure. I have a couple pieces 'explode' on me today and can hopefully learn what to look out for.





Hexa Fox said:


> Can you do that? As in the wedge is totally solid and can have material removed? So you just take an angle grinder down the side to get an edge?


Yes grind it, but be prepared for it to take a while, they are hard.


Hexa Fox said:


> So my initial impression of the Kohler SH 6.5 is that I am impressed. It starts easily and sounds relatively good. It also looks nice and well built. However, there is a slight hum to the engine. It is hard to describe but it sounds like it is coming from somewhere else but becomes apparent after awhile that it is coming from this engine. Don't think I have ever heard anything quite like it, might describe it better as a whistle. I always wear hearing protection now, even while using smaller walk behind push mowers. So could be that but still strange to me.
> 
> So I bought a 4 way wedge from Tractor Supply with the splitter as well. Honestly, I know some warned me but I am thinking about trying to return it. Because it makes the logs harder to handle (may change with a log catcher), the wings are not long enough to completely separate the wood into four pieces and it does seem like it could be heavier. I find some logs are perfect to be rolled 180 degrees after being split to get split into four pieces all together and works out pretty good.
> 
> So the fuel capacity looks like 0.85 gallons. So should I shut off the fuel for storage or just treat the fuel for storage and make certain some of the treated fuel gets into the carburetor? Again sorry if you guys mentioned this before. I think a couple of you did. I have been going back through and reading but there is a lot here lol. It is fine because it is the kind of stuff I enjoy reading. I haven't had to weld since high school and to be honest I do not have any extra room for anything else. I need to get rid of some of the junk we have collected over the years.


A 4 way wedge is kind of a one trick pony, unless you have tons of just the right diameter, its just a hassle. You can never go wrong with splitting ANY round or piece, in HALF to save steps/time. Although I will cut triangles for a while, then cut a round by going around the outside and cut half moons, just to get to the center a nice big square for making cribs for the ends of stacks. Or I want the square to cut 1 inch "slabs" then "re-assemble four or five, and cut those 1" wide for kindling. When I get nice hickory that splits with a pop that i dont have to chase the wedge all the way down, I look for opportunity to make these square rounds and get my kindling cut- I do not swing a hatchet or axe any more. 


Hexa Fox said:


> Since this thread has touched on every other redneck topic known to man. Here is the tractor I referenced earlier.


You go get that machine, he's offering it, even if you have to cover it in lots of tarps for a while till you get aorund to it. Sitting there isn;t doing anyone any good. LOTS of tractor salvage yards around you might can source a FEL for it. and the Shibaura rebadged Ford is not a bad little 19 horse machine. I'll give you or him $500 for it as it sits. and come up from FLorida to get it. Running, without the FEL, its maybe 1800 to 2k. Maybe. 2 wheel drive or 4, I didnt look at the pitcure that close.


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## GeeVee

I see it now- 2 wheel drive, still offer you or him $500, it will need gone through pretty deep. Clutch worn/wear, Hydro fluids take a couple of cycles and changes to clean out the old, particularly if it has gotten ANY water in it- which means rust INSIDE. Gears, bearings, seals, Starter, alternator, and of course injector pump. Tires that sit might hurt your feelings after you have gone through the mechanicals only to have them dryrotted and not holding air, and or rims with rust you can't see. Not super money pits if you are handy at doing your own work, but parts add up. OTOH. If you do the work and source used or salvaged parts where you can instead of brand new, you could wind up with a nice machine. IF you do some internet searching for that tractor with a FEL already on it and running- it may only cost you around 3-3500, for comparison, and may only need a clutch in its future- or tires..... You might wind up with 3k in that one if you found a FEL from a salvage yard. Maybe, maybe more. 

I would take that machine and couple it to a bushhog and never take it off, for my use. I have an ASV RC30 CTL, and a Mitsubishi 372D 4wd (no FEL) and my 15 hp Mits is currenlty only on BH duty. I'd let my Mits pull a box blade with ripper teeth (and it uncouple from the 3pt quickly, and haul a trailer the rest of its life) 

These Sub and Compact Ag tractors are prevalent and can do alot of work for their size, but I would always be preferring a 4wd unit- PARTICULARLY if its the only tractor or tool of its kind I owned.


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