# Recurve hunting



## okietreedude1 (Jul 23, 2006)

I recently got drawn into a bonus hunt that is restricted to recurve or long bows only. Ive never used one but am fixing to get one.

Anyone here use one? Im looking at a PSE that cabelas has.

What type of release do you use? tab, 3-finger, full glove.

Thanks for your help,


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## Stumper (Jul 23, 2006)

David, I'm a stickbow hunter. I own a couple of recurves but have hunted for several years with wood and sinew bows of my fathers manufacture(He makes Owl bows). Tab or glove is a personal preference but most experts will agree that a cleaner release is possible with a tab and tabs tend to get in the way less since you can flip it around and use your fingers for other tasks.

P.S. Since this is new to you don't make the mistake of going too heavy on draw weight-A 40lb bow with matched arrows and sharp heads will work on the biggest deer in OK. Idon't know what the minimums are on your hunt butdon't jump into a 60pound bow and develop terrible habits-get a 40-45 lber and get good without hurting yourself.


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## okietreedude1 (Jul 24, 2006)

Justin, 

The minimum draw weight is 40# at 28" of draw.

Thanks for the wieight tip. i figured at staying at or below 50#. Im going to try them out in the store starting at 40.


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## 046 (Jul 24, 2006)

which bonus hunt did you win? 

been a long time, since I've shoot recurve...


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## Cut4fun (Jul 24, 2006)

I have 3 recurves. All older ones like Indian, Bear, Shakespear. All 50 pound pull. I use 3 finger with leather glove only and no sights, instinct shooting only for me.


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## klickitatsacket (Jul 24, 2006)

I picked up an older Bear for $20 2 years ago. The draw on mine is 50#. I use mine to chase coyotes. I gihli up and call them in close. I have yet to get one like this but it is a whole lot of fun trying. When I finally get one I plan on making a quiver out of the hide.


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## ShoerFast (Jul 24, 2006)

okietreedude1 said:


> I recently got drawn into a bonus hunt that is restricted to recurve or long bows only. Ive never used one but am fixing to get one.
> 
> Anyone here use one? Im looking at a PSE that cabelas has.
> 
> ...



Okietreedude

I have 2 words for you,,,, *Martin Hatfield*,,,,,, just as .02 cents worth.

As sort of a "become the arrow" instinctive type here. 

My first year out of Guide School, I took a Father / Son team back into an area near Wolf Creek Pass Colorado, for Back Country Outfitters.

Wolf Creek is a tuff area and hard to pack (lots of down timber and ill-maintained trails. The Son had a Martin Hatfield take-down, packed into a 30" hard-case, horses never knew it was on them!. The take down bow will accept the bolt-on, Raw-hide quiver (Cabels has them as well as most good bow-shops), and I was so impressed with that bow set-up, that I had to order one myself, and have been very pleased!

Ordering from Cabias Pro-Shop, I had asked for something with a lot of snuff, as they only go up to #75 by there catalog, they found a bow that tested at #85 @28 and cronos a 535gr. Eston / Muzzley at 205 - 210 fps. Shoot the highest draw waight and heavest arrow you can, the faster an arrow, the less error in distance judging, the heaver the arrow, the more chance for a clean kill. I have put arrows clean througth elk that never moved, just looked at were the arrow hit wondering were the hell that thing came from!

I shoot "No Glove" 3 finger pads that fit over the string, cold elk mornings, I can bite a glove off my right hand faster then I can mount finger pads or shooting gloves.

What ever you decide to go with, I would start practicing, with my set-up, the first couple weeks of practice (started this week) are cut short as it tears the inside corner of my index finger till it callouses up,,,,,, a small price as the rig just hunts well. Just cause it's a recurve, dose not mean that it dose not need tuning, cut a lot of paper, I never have the nock-point so tight that I can't budge it a little in the field, and shoot a Wisker-Bisket and carry the Allen-wrench and an extra "shot-in" string,,,, better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it! And carry a couple Zuickie "judu-points" and stump-chuck offten. 

To me, there is nothing more moving then to stalk and call deer or elk with a re-curve!

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If this attachment loads? it's well worth the wait, as it is a very good place to start!


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## Cut4fun (Jul 24, 2006)

klickitatsacket said:


> I picked up an older Bear for $20 2 years ago. The draw on mine is 50#. I use mine to chase coyotes. I gihli up and call them in close. I have yet to get one like this but it is a whole lot of fun trying. When I finally get one I plan on making a quiver out of the hide.


I got a answer for you that will work. Climb in a tree stand. Put out your scents and use your calls. I have got 2-3 coyotes this way from up above. All shot 20-25 yards. I cheated though. I used a crossbow for these. I wanted to be able to take a 30-40 yard shot and know I could hit. With a recurve I am only good at 20.


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## okietreedude1 (Jul 24, 2006)

046 said:


> which bonus hunt did you win?
> 
> been a long time, since I've shoot recurve...




I got drawn in at McAlister AAP, Oct 13-15.


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## okietreedude1 (Jul 24, 2006)

ShoerFast said:


> Okietreedude
> 
> and shoot a Wisker-Bisket and carry the Allen-wrench and an extra "shot-in" string,,,, better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it! And carry a couple Zuickie "judu-points" and stump-chuck offten.
> 
> ...




Cant shoot a wisker-bisket. Its all traditional. Not mechanical releases, no sights, no rests. Just a bare bow, string, arrow.

Im not sure if you can even take a range finder (not that youd need one though)

And your attachment loaded. Looks like im going to have to fire up the printer.


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## klickitatsacket (Jul 26, 2006)

Cut4fun said:


> I got a answer for you that will work. Climb in a tree stand. Put out your scents and use your calls. I have got 2-3 coyotes this way from up above. All shot 20-25 yards. I cheated though. I used a crossbow for these. I wanted to be able to take a 30-40 yard shot and know I could hit. With a recurve I am only good at 20.


very nice! I have a stand, but the idea is to try and take 'em on the ground. the one i got in close enough to shoot spooked at the last few inches of the pull. I let fly anyhow and missed by a good 20'. I tell you what, yotes are as fast as it gets when spooked.


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## ShoerFast (Jul 26, 2006)

okietreedude1 said:


> Cant shoot a wisker-bisket. Its all traditional. Not mechanical releases, no sights, no rests. Just a bare bow, string, arrow.
> 
> Im not sure if you can even take a range finder (not that youd need one though)
> 
> And your attachment loaded. Looks like im going to have to fire up the printer.



Martin Hatfields do come with a rest, I added the Wisker Bisket.

I like the idea for the hunt! you may want to check with 3 Rivers Archery also. But time is your quarry for now.

Were are on the same page with the range finder, there about as usefull to an Instentive Archer as bells for your boots and a bottle of Old-Spice after-shave.

Glad that the info-file found you, there is a lot of the "stuff" in there, for any Archer!

Just another .02 cents worth of my opinion, but I will not have anything to do with expandable broadheads.

To me there just another whistle and bell, and only have a partial use on arrows at over 300fps, (with set-up's with other problims , as arrows should not "plain" if the waight is forward) but I had heard too many stories of how they have opened in-flight (pine brouse or tree-twigs or a clumsy setting or notching of the arrow)

Another contriversy that I would flip a coin over, is there is a fallowing on how to sharpen broad-heads, there is some clout to leaving the eadge "in the white" or still with a burr, as opposed to "razor-sharp" ,,,,, The idea of the "burr" is that if the arrow will pass clean throu, a cut from an eadge left in the "white" will flow twice the blood and speed the kill?

Have you shot "instinctive" before?


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## klickitatsacket (Jul 26, 2006)

BTW I also shoot instinctive but I am only good to about 30yrds (10" pattern) I met a guy a few years back that puts a serrated edge on all his broad heads. Has any one else ever heard of this? The concept seems valid but if it worked why do I not see manufacturers doing it?


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## ShoerFast (Jul 26, 2006)

klickitatsacket said:


> BTW I also shoot instinctive but I am only good to about 30yrds (10" pattern) I met a guy a few years back that puts a serrated edge on all his broad heads. Has any one else ever heard of this? The concept seems valid but if it worked why do I not see manufacturers doing it?



Dean

You can get broad-heads with serations, but a Plastic Sergon could explain why "razor" sharp will flow less blood then something "in the white"


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## Stumper (Jul 27, 2006)

I have used file sharpened and honed edges and gotten similar results. Which is best will probably be debated forever. So long as edges are sharp they will cut. One point though-proper file sharpening REMOVES the burr. If a burr is left it can fold over and impede cutting.


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## klickitatsacket (Jul 27, 2006)

doesn't filing leave micro seration?


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## Stumper (Jul 29, 2006)

Dean, Yes filing leave micro serrations an dit is myconviction thta a filed edge deals with green bone a bit better than a honed edge. Shoer's post was a little hard to follow but seemed to be in favor of leaving a burr. In most cases a burr left by filing of grinding is fragile enough to break a way and leave a moderately sharp edge behind but in some cases(depends upon steel alloy and filig procedure the "wire edge' or burr can fold over without breaking and suddenly the blade is simply dull as far as function goes. Proper technique with a file will remove the burr and leave a very sharp edge-in fact with the old glue-on Bear Razorhead or a Zwickey Eskimo I can get an edge that will shave hair with nothing but a bastard file. Some steels will get sharp with a file but require honing to cut hair easily.


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## 046 (Jul 29, 2006)

which hunt is that? did a google search can't find anything? 

I've got a life time hunting license and need to put in for all the special drawings.. sure like to win an elk tag...



okietreedude1 said:


> I got drawn in at McAlister AAP, Oct 13-15.


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## okietreedude1 (Aug 2, 2006)

Sorry guys to start the thread and leave....ive been in Minnesota at the ISA comp.

Stopped at cabelas in KC, KS today and came out w/ a PSE Impala. 50#@28", shooting tab, 12 carbon arrows, muzzy broadheads, field points, and a arm gaurd thing (more to compact your shirt sleeves).

This is my first time shooting a recurve.

046, go to www.wildlifedepartment.com and go to the controlled hunt section. Look for the McAlister AAP link. Theyve got some pics of harvested bucks and bucks roaming the area as well.

Now off to the practice range!


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## Marky Mark (Sep 10, 2006)

Bracken Berry Drifter is what I shoot, Port Oxford Cedar arrow with Zwicky Single blade Broadheads. 62# @ 28" The sharpening of broad heads is a debate like a chainsaw. I use the 2 mill Bastard files mounted in the oak block. 

Get your shooting down pat, then everymorning shoot one arrow, that's it. It will take a little time and patience to shoot asprins out of the air. But it can be done. Get yourself a cat quiver "back quiver" you can gary gear and arrows protected. Not to mention you be so off on your cant when shooting. 

www.kustomkingarchery.com

Also add the Fred Asbel book


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