# Bought a new Stihl MS 290 Farm Boss



## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

Well, after reading lots of posts here, and making a few posts concerning a new saw, and getting lots of good feedback from you guys, I pulled the trigger and bought a new tried and true Stihl MS 290 Farm Boss. Here's a brief video: Stihl MS 290 - YouTube

Until now, the only saw I've ever tried, used, or owned, was my little Stihl MS 170. Had it for 8 years now. Luv that little saw. Cut 50 full cords with it (up to 10 cords a year now). The chain oiler pooped out. No big deal. Took it to the Stihl dealer I've frequented over the years just enough so they recognize me, but don't remember my name. I've had them sharpen my chains, bought spare chains, bars, chain and 2 cycle oil, etc. My plan was to drop off the 170 for repair and buy an MS 250. The 170 would then become my backup saw.

As one fella was writing up the work order on my 170, I was playing with the 250. Bob, the owner, came out. I asked him if this was a good day to make a deal. He said every day is a good day to make a deal. Now the 250 felt very familiar to me. But suddenly, and without warning, the Tim Taylor syndrome came over me (more power, ugh ugh ugh), and I picked up the 290. I asked Bob which one he would recommend. He knew I had a 170 and cut only 10 cords a year so he didn't try to sell me a pro saw. He said if you can handle the extra weight, get the 290. It's got almost 1 more HP than the 250. But if you want to keep the weight down, get the 250. Umm. I did feel the extra weight of the 290 and thought it might be hard to start (no compression release). Bob showed me how to pull the starter cord, then handed it to me and said, give it a yank. So I gave it my best shot. It wasn't as hard as I had anticipated. Bob promptly said you won't have any trouble starting the 290. I said OK, here's the deal. I want the 290 with a 16 inch bar (I don't need a longer bar as I buy the permit to take trees (standing dead, or down) from the national forest, and not permitted to take anything over 18 inches. 95% of what I take is 16 inches or less), an extra bar (it came with one but I wanted an extra), 3 extra chains (it came with one, but I wanted some extras), a pack of Stihl 2 cycle synthetic engine oil (to double the warranty), and _YOU_ throw in a carrying case. He did some figuring and we agreed on $500 for everything, including all tax. He cut me a nice discount. Here's a picture of the invoice: View attachment 209352
I asked Bob about using non-safety chains (he carries them), but after a brief discussion, I decided to first get use to this new saw. Then maybe I'll give them a try.

He fueled and serviced the 290 while I finished the work order on my 170. I heard my new saw running in the back room. After awhile, he brought everything out and asked me if I wanted to go over the 290's safety, starting procedures, etc. I said, it's basically the same as my 170, isn't it. He said it was and I shouldn't have any problem starting and using it. Just start it like you start the 170. He also said, "Read the manual". He said I should bring it back after 5 hours of use so he could adjust the carburetor again. (There is no carb adjustment on my 170.) So away I went with all of my new goodies, and a big smile on my face.

Read the whole manual last night, TWICE. I'm a part time instructor at a technical college. I teach computer courses, so I like to read manuals. Reversed the air intake slide (put it on the left side) for winter operation, and installed the prefilter with the snow flake up for winter operation. Took it outside this morning and promptly flooded it. Took out the spark plug and give it 15 yanks to clear the combustion chamber. Put in the spark plug and it started right up. I found that if I give it two pulls in cold start mode, then switch to operating position 1, it usually starts right up. Manual says during break in (3 tanks of gas), machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load), so I blipped it up to half throttle for a few minutes to get things heated up. Stopped it, and tried starting it again. It started right up. Waited 15 minutes and it started right up again. Confident I could start it, I loaded all my gear in my truck and went looking for some trees to cut.

Found two nice 16 inchers. Saw started right up. To aid break-in, I babied it. I just let the weight of the saw (now that extra weight came in handy) do the work as I bucked those 2 trees. This thing chews through wood like a beaver in heat. But remember, all I have to compare it to is my little 170, so the difference is like day and night!

I know there are bigger and modded saws which can put the 290 to shame. But for my intended use, 10 cords of firewood a year, I don't need and can't justify a bigger or pro saw. And because most of the trees I harvest are 16 inches or less, all I wanted was a 16 inch bar for less reciprocating mass to better optimize the 290's power. I've cut a few 24 inch trees with the 14 inch bar on my little 170, so I'm sure the 290 will handle the larger trees when called upon. 

At first I did notice the extra weight of the 290, but by late afternoon while bucking rounds, it was no longer an issue, as that extra weight became an advantage, and I became use to it. And while some may prefer a longer bar when bucking to prevent bending over so much, this wasn't an issue for me. I rest my right elbow on my right knee, and let the saw do the work.

I'm so glad I went with the 290 vs the 250. It compliments my little 170 so well. In case someone is contemplating the 290 and wondering if they can handle its 13 pound weight (probably closer to 17 pounds with bar and chain), I'm almost 66 years old, 5'10", 200 pounds, and average physical condition. Watch the video above. I got use to the weight real quick. In all honesty, I think I would have been just as happy with the 250. But I know myself. And I know I might have later been wishing I had gotten the 290 with that extra 1 HP.

In the end, I couldn't be more pleased with my purchase. The 290 Farm Boss is a work horse of a saw. It's not a pro saw, not the most high tech, not the most powerful, and not the lightest. But it's well built and gets the job done, smartly, at a decent price point. Bob told me he sells more 250's and 290's, than all of the other Stihl models combined.

Before purchasing the Stihl, I did visit other dealers, Husky, Dolmar, Jonsered, etc. At each of these dealers I talked to customers who were absolutely delighted with their particular brand of saw. My purchase was very subjective. I think I would have been just as happy with any major brand of saw. I just felt the most comfortable with the Stihl dealer I had been frequenting over the years. He's always treated me right and cut me a nice discount. If you're ever in the area and need parts or service, check out Bob's Power Center in Rhinelander, Wisconsin.

The manual covers that carb adjustment. Umm, maybe I'll give that a try after 5 hours of use. Are there any tricks or tips that will help me with this?

Also, would it hurt to run a little more oil in the gas for awhile, say 40:1? I could have asked Bob when I bought the saw, but didn't think to.

Lastly, if you're not real saw smart (like me), what ever brand you buy, get it from a dealer who knows his products inside-out and can expertly service them. Make sure he services the saw (makes all the necessary adjustments) before you walk out the door with it. If you don't hear your new saw running in the back room, don't buy it. If he doesn't offer to walk you through the saws safety, starting, and operating procedures without you having to ask, find a different dealer. IF HE DOESN'T INSIST THAT YOU READ THE MANUAL, find a different dealer.	

And finally, READ (AND UNDERSTAND) THE MANUAL ~ TWICE !

Stay safe and have fun !
May your home always be too small to hold all your friends. 
May you be poor in misfortune, but rich in blessings.
May your right hand always be stretched out in friendship, but never in anger or want.
And finally, may peace and plenty be the first to lift the latch on your door, and happiness be guided to your home by the candle of Christmas. 

Thanks for all of your guidance and help guys,

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL

Don <><

Edit: See my calculations on how long it takes to cut 10 cords further down in this thread.


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## redunshee (Dec 1, 2011)

Congrats. I'm sure someone will make the comment that you could have gotten a better saw for the same $ but you are the one who will use the saw. 290(029) is an excellent saw as evidenced by how long they've been in production.
Bob


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## StihlGuitar (Dec 1, 2011)

Stihl recommends 40:1. I'd assume the carb was set with 40:1 mix, if you run 50:1 you might run lean.


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## redunshee (Dec 1, 2011)

StihlGuitar said:


> Stihl recommends 40:1. I'd assume the carb was set with 40:1 mix, if you run 50:1 you might run lean.


I'm surprised. Thought Stihl recommended 50/1. I run 40/1 in my old saws but assumed new saws ran 50/1.
Bob


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

StihlGuitar said:


> Stihl recommends 40:1. I'd assume the carb was set with 40:1 mix, if you run 50:1 you might run lean.



Hi StihlGuitar:
My 170 and my new 290 both call for a 50:1 mix. It's right in the manual.
So will it harm anything if I run 40:1 (synthetic) for awhile?

Don <><


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

redunshee said:


> Congrats. I'm sure someone will make the comment that you could have gotten a better saw for the same $ but you are the one who will use the saw. 290(029) is an excellent saw as evidenced by how long they've been in production.
> Bob




Hi redunshee:
I'm curious. What better saw could I have gotten for the same price (349.95)? Or would that just lead to a "Stihl vs whatever" debate which is purely subjective. I think all of the major manufactures produce some really fine saws, and we're lucky to have so many choices. If my little 170 is any indication of reliability, (it's as reliable as dirt), the 290 should give me many, many years of faithful service. In most cases, we get what we pay for, and given my intended use, I just couldn't justify a more expensive saw.

Don


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## redunshee (Dec 1, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> Hi redunshee:
> I'm curious. What better saw could I have gotten for the same price (349.95)? Or would that just lead to a "Stihl vs whatever" debate which is purely subjective.
> 
> Don



I thought the mix was 50/1. Running 40/1 won't hurt though I don't think its necessary. If you could adjust carb, I'd suggest running it a little rich which 40/1 will accomplish. That's what I do on my old saws after installing new rings or a piston(run my saws a little rich by openning the Hi speed needle a bit). I don't think you will harm saw unless you run it hard for the first few tanks.
Bob


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## redunshee (Dec 1, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> Hi redunshee:
> I'm curious. What better saw could I have gotten for the same price (349.95)? Or would that just lead to a "Stihl vs whatever" debate which is purely subjective.
> 
> Don



What I meant was exactly what you stated. Or, someone will suggest you buy a pro-series saw. Sometimes people get so picky on stats, horsepower rpm's that they forget that most people don't cut 100 cords a year or fell trees for a living. You did good.
Bob


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## Saw Dr. (Dec 1, 2011)

40:1 or 50:1 is fine. I run 44:1 in all my stuff including oldies that call for as much as 20:1. Just use good quality oil. There plenty of old 029's (virtually the same as 290) out there with farmers running nasty old swamp water in them, and they run fine. Congrats on the new saw. I think you should get a yellow chain as soon as practical, but the green ones can cut pretty when they're sharpened correctly.


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

Saw Dr. said:


> I think you should get a yellow chain as soon as practical, but the green ones can cut pretty when they're sharpened correctly.



I agree saw Doctor. I just didn't wanna get in over my head with this new saw until I get use to it. I could take the 3 extra chains back and exchange them for the yellow ones. Maybe I'll do that. Is there like a huge cutting difference when using the yellow chains as opposed to the green safety chains? Do the yellow chains get dull faster? Are they any harder to sharpen?

Don <><


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## StihlGuitar (Dec 1, 2011)

*029 super*

I bought my dad an 029 super in perfect condition...already broke in for 90$. I just don't see the point in buying a saw of this caliber new....


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

StihlGuitar said:


> I bought my dad an 029 super in perfect condition...already broke in for 90$. I just don't see the point in buying a saw of this caliber new....



Hi StihlGuitar:
I just don't know enough about used chain saws to make a good purchase. I wouldn't know if I were buying a piece of junk, or getting a real nice used saw. And I'm not mechanically inclined enough to overhaul a used saw. Given its price, the MS 290 is a decent saw.

Don <><


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## KenneSaw (Dec 1, 2011)

Congrats! Great saw. I have a 1998 029S.


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## Stumpys Customs (Dec 1, 2011)

Congrats on the new saw.
Don't tell anybody this, but I kinda like the 290.


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## StihlGuitar (Dec 1, 2011)

well with that consideration, you've done well. Better to buy a homeowner saw from a dealer than one from a box store. Fine job.


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## tomsteve (Dec 1, 2011)

after ya run about 5-10 tanks of gas through it, do a muffler mod and readjust the carb.she'ss wake up and snort.


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

tomsteve said:


> after ya run about 5-10 tanks of gas through it, do a muffler mod and readjust the carb.she'ss wake up and snort.



Hi tomsteve. I don't know how to do a muffler mod, but if I had one done, would this in any way affect my ability to use the saw in the national forest? They're kinda picky about stuff like spark arrestors. Would it affect my warranty?

Don


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## Kenskip1 (Dec 1, 2011)

Sir, glad that you made a quality purchase. BTW, I call anyone sir that has a collage education.I am glad that you bought it from a dealer rather than a box store.Stay warm and enjoy the cold winter evenings thanks to your new saw.Happy Holidays, Ken


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## redunshee (Dec 1, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> Hi tomsteve. I don't know how to do a muffler mod, but if I had one done, would this in any way affect my ability to use the saw in the national forest? They're kinda picky about stuff like spark arrestors. Would it affect my warranty?
> 
> Don



Don't do anything while under warranty. If you are happy with the saw leave it alone
Bob


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

Kenskip1 said:


> I call anyone sir that has a collage education.



It's funny you mention this Ken. I was a high school drop out at 17. Joined the Marines for 8 years. Viet Nam vet. Used the GI bill to get me some smarts. Was an accountant for 20 years. Never in a million years did I think I would ever be teaching at a technical college. But I absolutely luv it.

Happy Holidays back atcha.

Don <><


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

redunshee said:


> Don't do anything while under warranty. If you are happy with the saw leave it alone
> Bob



I'm completely happy with the stock power of this saw, and I wouldn't want to do anything to affect the warranty (which I hope I never have to resort to). Compared to the 1.7 HP of my 170, the 290 has over twice the power at 3.8. Not having any experience with anything other than my little 170, the 290 impresses the heck out of me! 

Don <><


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## Birdhunter1 (Dec 1, 2011)

If you are happy with the saw just put 50:1 fuel in it with Stihl 2 stroke oil, keep a sharp chain and clean filters in it and run it as is till it dies. Speaking of which it will last a long time, don't let guys dog you down, the 290 is a good saw and will do anything any other saw with a 16" 18" or 20" bar will do.


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## rms61moparman (Dec 1, 2011)

For what you do and what you need, you bought the best saw VALUE that you could have.
That saw in one form or another (029, 029 Super and MS290) has been around for about 20 years.
A saw that isn't top shelf for its purpose will NOT stay around that long!
Congratulations!

Mike


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

Birdhunter1 said:


> If you are happy with the saw just put 50:1 fuel in it with Stihl 2 stroke oil, keep a sharp chain and clean filters in it and run it as is till it dies. Speaking of which it will last a long time, don't let guys dog you down, the 290 is a good saw and will do anything any other saw with a 16" 18" or 20" bar will do.



Thanks Birdhunter. My little 170 handled all of my needs, so I'm confident the 290 will also, allbeit, a bit faster. It really is a pretty decent saw, that suits my needs perfectly, and at a price point I can afford. With proper maintenance, I expect it to out live me. Cutting 10 cords a year just doesn't put that many hours on a saw. Um, I should figure out how many actual cutting hours it takes to cut 10 cords.

Don <><


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## Birdhunter1 (Dec 1, 2011)

I've had mine for 11 1/2 years.


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## Yooperforeman (Dec 1, 2011)

Congratulations! The MS290 is a great saw, I muffler modded mine before the first tank of fuel went through it,and removed the carb limiters.
I wasn't worried about the warranty.Don't be disappointed that it isn't a pro grade saw,It's well built and has proven to be reliable.
I know of some pro grade saws that are sitting around with blown pistons,and the 'ol 029's/290's are still running strong.


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## russhd1997 (Dec 1, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> I agree saw Doctor. I just didn't wanna get in over my head with this new saw until I get use to it. I could take the 3 extra chains back and exchange them for the yellow ones. Maybe I'll do that. Is there like a huge cutting difference when using the yellow chains as opposed to the green safety chains? Do the yellow chains get dull faster? Are they any harder to sharpen?
> 
> Don <><



I use the yellow RMC semi chisel chain on my MS290 and it stays sharp a long time. The RSC full chisel chain will cut faster at first but will get dull faster especially if the wood is dirty. With your years of experience running a chainsaw I feel that you should be using the yellow chain. Take those 3 extra chains back and exchange them for yellow dot chain you will like it. I recommend the RMC chain.


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

russhd1997 said:


> With your years of experience



I got a kick out of this russhd1977. Be careful, or you'll give me a big head. Compared to some, if not most, of the guys in this forum, I'm a babe in the woods. I'm somewhat mechanically challenged, and can break stuff with the best of them. Maybe better. But I do think I'll try one of those yellow chains pretty quick.

Don <><


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## Birdhunter1 (Dec 1, 2011)

Your green label chain is an anti kickback chain, which means it will still kickback it just won't do it as often or as easily as the yellow label non safety chain. The yellow stuff will kickback and will do so often if you don't watch for it. Your owners manual addresses this, you can run either chain just fine. The green label won't cut as aggressive/as fast but if you've been happy with it on your 170 for years you'll probably be happy with it on the 290.


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## stihl86 (Dec 1, 2011)

Good luck. You bought a fine saw. We've sold 100's
It's been a solid saw since the 029.


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## mama (Dec 1, 2011)

*290*

I've had my 290 going on 7 years, good saw for the money. I muffler modded my and it gave it a more power. For the price it can't be beat. Good luck.


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## JoshF (Dec 1, 2011)

this post makes me chuckle... in a good way. i work at a stihl dealer and everyday at lunch me and the guys go up to drool over the saw rack. we all only heat our houses with wood so cut no more wood than you but we insist on having thousands tied up in fancy pro saws and we always say we could probably just handle that with a 290. you proved it... just like lots of other people. just dont tell my wife we could heat our house with only 349.99 worth of saws:smile2:


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## redunshee (Dec 1, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> It's funny you mention this Ken. I was a high school drop out at 17. Joined the Marines for 8 years. Viet Nam vet. Used the GI bill to get me some smarts. Was an accountant for 20 years. Never in a million years did I think I would ever be teaching at a technical college. But I absolutely luv it.
> 
> Happy Holidays back atcha.
> 
> Don <><



Glad to chat with another Nam vet. While not a jarhead(no insult intended, I'm Army)), I respect anyone who has served their Country honorably, even a situation as FUBAR as Nam.


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## s219 (Dec 1, 2011)

redunshee said:


> I thought the mix was 50/1. Running 40/1 won't hurt though I don't think its necessary. If you could adjust carb, I'd suggest running it a little rich which 40/1 will accomplish. That's what I do on my old saws after installing new rings or a piston(run my saws a little rich by openning the Hi speed needle a bit). I don't think you will harm saw unless you run it hard for the first few tanks.
> Bob



Correct me if I'm wrong -- running 40:1 means there is less fuel in each gallon of mix than 50:1. So a carb tuned for 50:1 will run slightly *lean* on 40:1. Not a whole lot, but definitely leaner. Right? So if you do run more oil than the carb has been tuned at, you should richen up the carb.


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

redunshee said:


> Glad to chat with another Nam vet. While not a jarhead(no insult intended, I'm Army)), I respect anyone who has served their Country honorably, even a situation as FUBAR as Nam.



Hey redunshee. Always glad to chat with another vet. I had to do an internet search to find out what the acronym FUBAR meant. And your're right. That's just what it was, along with a horrendous waste of life. My condolences go out to anyone who lost a relative or friend in that conflict.

Don <><


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## genesis5521 (Dec 1, 2011)

JoshF said:


> this post makes me chuckle... in a good way. i work at a stihl dealer and everyday at lunch me and the guys go up to drool over the saw rack. we all only heat our houses with wood so cut no more wood than you but we insist on having thousands tied up in fancy pro saws and we always say we could probably just handle that with a 290. you proved it... just like lots of other people. just dont tell my wife we could heat our house with only 349.99 worth of saws:smile2:



Hey JoshF. You made my day!!!!!!
Actually, I've been cutting 10 cords a year with just a little MS 170 I bought brand new for $150. But we won't tell your wife.


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## stihlrookie (Dec 1, 2011)

Congrats on the new saw! The MS290 is certainly a step up from your 170, you will not be disappointed. Follow the basic maintenance requirements, use 89 octane or higher non ethanol gas if you can find it and the saw will last you a long time.


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## Kenskip1 (Dec 1, 2011)

*Vets*

Had to hop on board and add my years experience.I spent 12 years Air Force.Just thought this might be relevant, B52-G model! Ken


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## abikerboy (Dec 1, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> Thanks Birdhunter. My little 170 handled all of my needs, so I'm confident the 290 will also, allbeit, a bit faster. It really is a pretty decent saw, that suits my needs perfectly, and at a price point I can afford. With proper maintenance, I expect it to out live me. Cutting 10 cords a year just doesn't put that many hours on a saw. Um, I should figure out how many actual cutting hours it takes to cut 10 cords.
> 
> Don <><



Hi Don;
I own a MS290, MS170 and MS441. You'll be happy with your new saw. If I were logging, or making a living on firewood, I would probably mate my MS441 with another pro saw, but for cutting my own wood, the MS290 does great. Just watch out for CAD!!! That's what got me 3 Stihl saws, along with some others I haven't yet mentioned! And to you, and to all of the fine folks who dedicated themselves to serving our country, many many many thanks to you all! Seems like it's too easy to take for granted all that we have because of you!


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## abikerboy (Dec 1, 2011)

Kenskip1 said:


> I am glad that you bought it from a dealer rather than a box store.Stay warm and enjoy the cold winter evenings thanks to your new saw.Happy Holidays, Ken



Seems like I'm all Stihl, but I actually bought Stihl because of my dealer. It's hard to find dealers who are willing to spend the extra time with you when you're still not even sure what you want or need. If you've got a good dealer, keep him at the top of your list! And def. take advantage of his offer for a 5 hour carb tuning!


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## grack (Dec 1, 2011)

getting close to four years of trouble free use on my 290 good choice.


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## Jer75 (Dec 1, 2011)

Congats on your new saw!!!

I've owned an 029 Super for quite a few years and it's been a heck of a saw for me. It wasn't until I first started lurking around here on AS that I heard terms like "Anchor" and quite a bit of talk about the power to weight ratio.

As a non-pro landowner I just hadn't given that any thought before. (Just didn't know enough to know it was too heavy and to slow I guess...) 

I seem to reach for my Echo CS-400 on a more regular basis now for most of the stuff I'm in to, but the 029 Super is as reliable as the sun coming up in the East, and I like knowing I have it - just in case.

You'll like it a lot for what you're doing.

I'd also like to say "Thanks" for your service and to all the Vets here on AS.


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## Kenskip1 (Dec 2, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> I got a kick out of this russhd1977. Be careful, or you'll give me a big head. Compared to some, if not most, of the guys in this forum, I'm a babe in the woods. I'm somewhat mechanically challenged, and can break stuff with the best of them. Maybe better. But I do think I'll try one of those yellow chains pretty quick.
> 
> Don <><




Don I am just the opposite.If my PC goes on the blink I am all but lost however, if the equipment has a spark plug and a carburetor then their is a very good chance that I will be able to repair it.Ken

I spent two semesters in a community collage in NY.Best learning experience I have ever had.


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## indiansprings (Dec 2, 2011)

Congratulations! You bought yourself the number one selling firewood saw in America. Even better made right here in the USA, by men and women in Virginia Beach, VA. They are a fantastic saw for the money, most won't ever admit it, but the 290's will cut more wood in day that most people are capable of cutting. I've got a cousin that has used one for years, he cuts cedar trees for a commercial mill with it, he will cut four or five 16' trailer loads of cedar logs a week with it and the saw has done it every week for four of five years. Don't pay any attention to the pro saw snobs, I'd run one any day because they are a good dependable design with millions of them sold and in use all across the world everyday. Everyone had their own opinion, I run my saws with Ultra mixed at 50:1 and have never had an issue. I hope you took advantage of the promo of buying a six pack of ultra and double your warranty to two years promotion.
Enjoy that saw, be safe and go out and make a pile of firewood, no telling how much more your going to get cut stepping up from a 170 to a 290. Your liable to become a firewood monster. New saw rep sent!
Way to support American made products!


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## redunshee (Dec 2, 2011)

s219 said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong -- running 40:1 means there is less fuel in each gallon of mix than 50:1. So a carb tuned for 50:1 will run slightly *lean* on 40:1. Not a whole lot, but definitely leaner. Right? So if you do run more oil than the carb has been tuned at, you should richen up the carb.



You've got it backwards. There is more oil at 40/1 than 50/1. 128oz/40=3.2oz. of oil. 128oz./50=2.56oz. of oil. So with 3.2 oz of oil in every gal. of gas(128oz.) you have a richer mixture than at 50 /1. 
Bob


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## redunshee (Dec 2, 2011)

Kenskip1 said:


> Had to hop on board and add my years experience.I spent 12 years Air Force.Just thought this might be relevant, B52-G model! Ken



Oooh! Rolling thunder!


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## genesis5521 (Dec 2, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> I should figure out how many actual cutting hours it takes to cut 10 cords.
> Don <><



I'm the OP.
I made some assumptions and calculations, which could be way off, but here's what I got.
These are just rough calculations and "guesstimates".

Pieces needed for 1 face cord = 275
Pieces needed for 1 full cord = 825
Average diameter of trees I cut = 12 inches
Length of rounds I cut = 16 inches
Pieces per round (4 way split) = 4
Rounds needed for 1 face cord = 275/4=68.75
Rounds needed for 1 full cord = 825/4=206.25
8' logs need for 1 face cord = (68.75 X 16)/96 = 11.45
8' logs needed for 1 full cord = 11.45 X 3 = 34.35

I haven't actually timed this so I arbitrarily used 15 seconds as the trigger time on the saw to cut a 12 inch diameter round.
So using the above formula, it takes roughly 17.2 minutes to cut 1 face cord. (15 x 68.75)/60 = 17.1875 minutes
And 17.875 minutes x 30 face cords (= 10 full cords) = 8.59 hours.
This is just the actual trigger time on the saw to cut the rounds.
It doesn't include any time to cut the trees down, or limbing them out, or idle time on the saw.


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## Richard Dupp (Dec 2, 2011)

redunshee said:


> You've got it backwards. There is more oil at 40/1 than 50/1. 128oz/40=3.2oz. of oil. 128oz./50=2.56oz. of oil. So with 3.2 oz of oil in every gal. of gas(128oz.) you have a richer mixture than at 50 /1.
> Bob



Actually, that is a leaner mixture of fuel to air, because there is ever so slightly less gas in the same volume of mix, but at these differences, I don't think it matters. I actually run 44:1 mix. Put a 2.6 oz bottle of oil and .9 gal (115 oz) of gas.


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## Chris J. (Dec 2, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> It's funny you mention this Ken. I was a high school drop out at 17. Joined the Marines for 8 years. Viet Nam vet. Used the GI bill to get me some smarts. Was an accountant for 20 years. Never in a million years did I think I would ever be teaching at a technical college. But I absolutely luv it.
> 
> Happy Holidays back atcha.
> 
> Don <><




Education & new saw rep sent, I should've included veteran :msp_thumbup: rep as well.

Ignore the 290 maligners, you bought a proven workhorse. Take good care of it (it sounds like you're a proper maintenance kind of guy) and it'll keep you in wood for many years.


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## mtfallsmikey (Dec 2, 2011)

Chris J. said:


> Education & new saw rep sent, I should've included veteran :msp_thumbup: rep as well.
> 
> Ignore the 290 maligners, you bought a proven workhorse. Take good care of it (it sounds like you're a proper maintenance kind of guy) and it'll keep you in wood for many years.



I agree. Sure, there are other saws that are lighter, faster in the same range as the 290, but mine is my go-to workhorse, in it's 4th year. Expect to replace the fuel pickup line after the first year.


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## StihlyinEly (Dec 2, 2011)

I ran a 290 for several years as a firewood and light felling saw, and it's one of the best values for the money bought new in the U.S., IMO.

Some points of information. A muffler mod involves drilling or cutting out larger openings in the muffler so more air can move faster through the saw. This increases power enough to notice. There have been a number of threads here over the last few years showing how. It's the work of about half an hour. You also have to richen the H and L screws to compensate for the increased airflow so you don't run the saw too lean. In order to do that, you have to physically pull off plastic limiter caps on each screw (they are plastic), file or cut off a small plastic tab that keeps them from being tuned richer than what the EPA wants (richer mix = more pollution), and put the limiter caps back on the H and L screws. Then, with the muff mod done, you tune the mix by ear (which isn't that hard to do, either, and there are threads here with what a properly tuned saw sounds like.)

So, doing these things will void the warranty, which in your case lasts 2 years. I'd not do it during the warranty period in your case because, even if you want to dig into your saw and do the MM and mixture screw readjustments, at your level you're probably more concerned with getting serviced on warranty if issues crop up than you are with power increases.

You've already gotten good info on the difference between the safety and non safety chains. You've done enough cutting so you should know your way around kickback situations, and should understand the tension/torsion on a felled tree and whether to make your cuts from above or below when bucking. 

You will notice a difference in cutting speed between the yellow and green chain. Going carefully and getting used to a new saw is important. I'd say once you have a few tanks through it and are used to it, that's plenty of time to pick up a couple loops of yellow chain and work carefully with that for awhile. 

You got a great saw for the money. You'll see the saws in my sig are pro saws, but I got every single one of them used, and I do some wrenchin on my own saws, so that makes it a bit easier to get into the pro saw stuff. Well maintained and properly used, your 290 will do everything you need it to do, and probably more, for many, many years.

Good purchase! :msp_biggrin:


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## cheeves (Dec 2, 2011)

redunshee said:


> Congrats. I'm sure someone will make the comment that you could have gotten a better saw for the same $ but you are the one who will use the saw. 290(029) is an excellent saw as evidenced by how long they've been in production.
> Bob



My brother's 029 has been cutting firewood for over 15 years! I did a simple MM on it and it runs great! Also has the 16" bar.


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## brages (Dec 2, 2011)

I believe the ms290 is the current champ among major brands in horsepower per dollar, based on mfgr specs!


It has some negatives, too, but we can wait for a more appropriate thread for those...


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## zogger (Dec 2, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> I agree saw Doctor. I just didn't wanna get in over my head with this new saw until I get use to it. I could take the 3 extra chains back and exchange them for the yellow ones. Maybe I'll do that. Is there like a huge cutting difference when using the yellow chains as opposed to the green safety chains? Do the yellow chains get dull faster? Are they any harder to sharpen?
> 
> Don <><



Think about how the chain cutters cut. Except for bore cuts at the tip of the bar, there ain't much difference. You got little wiggly scoops that reach up and scoop and rock back down as they zing along the bar. You have cutters and depth gauge bumps on both, with an additional "safety" ramp that inhibits cutting straight in at the nose. This is to eliminate "kickback" which for sure can happen. 

You sharpen and take down the depth gauges the same, so that's a wash.

I have both and sharpened correctly, I don't see any major diff, chips look identical. 

Perhaps the professional guys who cut 100 times as much wood and have to like drop 60 inch diameter or larger trees all the time see the difference, but outside of bore cutting I have never seen it. Heck, almost all I use is *used* safety chain I get for free or a buck or two, I just sharpen them. Not all my loops, I have some that are normal as in pre safety chain design chains, but for what I cut, and most likely you cut..not seeing any serious profound difference. You can milk a regular chain out further sharpening it with less hassle, because there are no additional safety ramps to file or grind down. 

Most likely there is a *marginal* power advantage with a regular chain, less moving doo dads to create friction and less weight on the chain, but it might fall into the "statistical noise" level as well if it was to be accurately measured.

I think you did fine with your purchase and being meticulous, you will learn more and come out ahead in the long run, especially once you are on your own past warranty period and do all your own repairs.

I wouldn't worry about the chains at all, just learn to sharpen correctly and take care of them.


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## StihlyinEly (Dec 2, 2011)

I see a difference between the two grades of chain. Enough for me to know there is a difference. I took down some trees for a handyman/maintenance client at his lake home this summer and taught him chainsawing while we were doing it. He had a new 290 w/ .325 green chain. I recommended he keep his current setup. If you're cutting a cord or two a year, it makes very little difference. If you are cutting a lot, small increases in speed/efficiency add up over time.


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## Tim Carroll (Dec 2, 2011)

Your 290 should do everything you need it to do. My old 029 gave me many years (10) of reliable service. I did do a muffler mod to mine and it did give better throttle response and pulled the chain a little better in the cut. My 029 seemed to like the .325 setup with the green chain better but I was running a 20" bar on mine. Until I needed bigger production my old 029 was good for me cutting about 3 full cord a year. When I needed more production I moved to faster saws and more aggresive chain. I think you will be happy with it for years to come. Good luck and happy cutting.


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## dargo (Dec 2, 2011)

Yooperforeman said:


> Congratulations! The MS290 is a great saw, I muffler modded mine before the first tank of fuel went through it,and removed the carb limiters.
> I wasn't worried about the warranty.Don't be disappointed that it isn't a pro grade saw,It's well built and has proven to be reliable.
> I know of some pro grade saws that are sitting around with blown pistons,and the 'ol 029's/290's are still running strong.



I agree. on the mod. I bought a new Ms290 1 month ago. 4 tanks gas later, did the muffler mod and adj carb....WAY fast cuts! Love it now... The Muffler opening is a joke...If the saw breaks within the warranty it is a junk saw period...Running at 100:1 using Amsoil saber. Same as my backpacks etc...

I open up my weedeaters and leafblowers mufflers and the opening is huge. This saw 1/10.


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## s219 (Dec 2, 2011)

redunshee said:


> You've got it backwards. There is more oil at 40/1 than 50/1. 128oz/40=3.2oz. of oil. 128oz./50=2.56oz. of oil. So with 3.2 oz of oil in every gal. of gas(128oz.) you have a richer mixture than at 50 /1.
> Bob




Yeah, but more oil means less gasoline for a given amount of mix. So 40:1 has less gasoline in a gallon of mix than 50:1 (not much less, but definitely less). Therefore a carb tuned at 50:1 is going to run leaner with 40:1 since less gasoline will be present. Make sense? It's a minor difference to be sure, but when you increase the amount of oil in a mix, less pure gasoline flows through the carb.


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## sefh3 (Dec 2, 2011)

You done good on the purchase. Don't let the pro boys ruin your new purchase. Those saws are built to do what you do. That is why they are the #1 chain saw sold. I own a MS290, 029Super, and a 310. I run them all hard and no problems (well only one problem a few years ago of getting straight gased). That is what lead me to this forum. I run 16"-20" bars on mine. The 18" seems to fit it just right. Stick to .325 instead of 3/8. For me it pulls the .325 better.


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## o8f150 (Dec 2, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> I'm the OP.
> I made some assumptions and calculations, which could be way off, but here's what I got.
> These are just rough calculations and "guesstimates".
> 
> ...



you have to much time on your hands


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## StihlyinEly (Dec 2, 2011)

o8f150 said:


> you have to much time on your hands



Speaking of that, I have *too* much time on my hands. Spelling, my friends. Spelling. It's what separates us from the Husky/Dolly/Jonny beasts.


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## genesis5521 (Dec 3, 2011)

o8f150 said:


> you have to much time on your hands



You're right. I do. It's just my analytical accounting background kicking in. I like to quantify things. Actually, I was trying to get a ball park figure of actual saw time per year. If it takes approximately 9 hours just to buck 10 full cords, and if I arbitrarily triple that to account for felling, limbing, and saw idle time, that puts me right around 27 hours a year for total saw time to cut 10 cords. I just like to know this kinda stuff.


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## russhd1997 (Dec 3, 2011)

sefh3 said:


> You done good on the purchase. Don't let the pro boys ruin your new purchase. Those saws are built to do what you do. That is why they are the #1 chain saw sold. I own a MS290, 029Super, and a 310. I run them all hard and no problems (well only one problem a few years ago of getting straight gased). That is what lead me to this forum. I run 16"-20" bars on mine. The 18" seems to fit it just right. Stick to .325 instead of 3/8. For me it pulls the .325 better.



Good advise here. I run the .325 RMC yellow semi chisel chain and 18" bar on mine. With a MM and carb retune it cuts as good as other saws in it size class. Stihl calls it the Farm Boss for a reason. It will stand up to the various cutting chores that most farmers and homeowners will need a chainsaw for.


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## genesis5521 (Dec 3, 2011)

sefh3 said:


> You done good on the purchase. Don't let the pro boys ruin your new purchase. Those saws are built to do what you do. That is why they are the #1 chain saw sold.



Hi sefh3:
The pro boys have been nice, as there's no reason not to. If I needed a pro saw, I would have gotten a pro saw. And I still might some day. I just hope this thread helps someone make an intelligent saw purchase. If they need a pro saw, then they should get one. If not, there's a lot of very fine non-pro homeowner/firewood saws out there.

I got a kick out of joshF's post. On 12-1-11, joshF wrote:
"This post makes me chuckle... in a good way. i work at a stihl dealer and everyday at lunch me and the guys go up to drool over the saw rack. We all only heat our houses with wood so cut no more wood than you but we insist on having thousands tied up in fancy pro saws and we always say we could probably just handle that with a 290. You proved it... just like lots of other people. Just dont tell my wife we could heat our house with only 349.99 worth of saws."


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## labrax (Dec 3, 2011)

*gotta like this response in the thread*



StihlyinEly said:


> I ran a 290 for several years as a firewood and light felling saw, and it's one of the best values for the money bought new in the U.S., IMO.
> 
> Some points of information. A muffler mod involves drilling or cutting out larger openings in the muffler so more air can move faster through the saw. This increases power enough to notice. There have been a number of threads here over the last few years showing how. It's the work of about half an hour. You also have to richen the H and L screws to compensate for the increased airflow so you don't run the saw too lean. In order to do that, you have to physically pull off plastic limiter caps on each screw (they are plastic), file or cut off a small plastic tab that keeps them from being tuned richer than what the EPA wants (richer mix = more pollution), and put the limiter caps back on the H and L screws. Then, with the muff mod done, you tune the mix by ear (which isn't that hard to do, either, and there are threads here with what a properly tuned saw sounds like.)
> 
> ...



This is one of the best responses - that I have seen to a post in 2 years of being on the site!

I just took my 290 apart, after having to replace the recoil rope, and will be doing a MM soon. The yellow chain for the OP is something he should consider. I bought one shortly after getting the saw and it is a worthwhile thing to do - I would recommend changing out those safety chains for the non-safety chains. 

It is a heavy saw, but it will do the job for the occasional firewood cutter (like me). After knowing more - I may have chosen a different saw (Makita/Dolmar 6401), but really can't have any buyer's remorse for how I use it.


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## dargo (Dec 19, 2011)

genesis5521 said:


> Hi sefh3:
> The pro boys have been nice, as there's no reason not to. If I needed a pro saw, I would have gotten a pro saw. And I still might some day. I just hope this thread helps someone make an intelligent saw purchase. If they need a pro saw, then they should get one. If not, there's a lot of very fine non-pro homeowner/firewood saws out there.



I agree but, for me, I want to make the best out of my ms290. I looked at all my Shindawa and Echo mufflers and they are almost wide open..Then you have this ms290 little opening...I am not a pro and the MM and carb deal will make you money (aka less time) work for you. I could careless on the warrenty since if you build a quality product, it is not needed. I just bought a car and it was, well, high priced and they said do I want the extra warranty? I said do I need it since you build quality cars? They said no but what if...I said do you build crap? Saved me $2500 dollars..

Then again I have flashlights that are more then this saw...


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## fastLeo151 (Dec 19, 2011)

congrats on the new saw, I have had a couple 029 saws in the last couple years. I have found that they are to heavy for the power they produce but at 350.00 new Its impossible to complain. I am a huge fan of the ms 250/ 025 size saws. awsome power to weight ratio, I have 2 that i used for firewood saws. what pitch chain are you running on your 290?


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## texastele (Dec 19, 2011)

The guy that I cut with swears by the 290, although I think that I starting to get hm converted with my 391. I think he is going to get another 290/291 in the spring. 
Also, I like the yellow chains. The safety chains seem to cut slower, but that could just be me.


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