# Another gaff thread...



## arbor pro (Jul 31, 2009)

I have the old school buckingham steel spikes with leather pads and i hate climbing with them. They always twist on me and cut into my shins. I wear a short boot. I realize that wearing a tall climbing boot might help with this problem but, I just am an occasional climber (bucket truck baby) who does mostly pruning. I use spikes maybe a couple of times a month for removals when I can't get my aerial lift into the area. Tall climbing boots would seldom get worn except for when I wear spikes.

I do not have a problem with spending money on either better gaffs to wear with my short boots or on tall boots to wear with my buckinghams. As a worst case scenario, I would even consider buying both climbing boots and new spikes.

Can anyone suggest a good gaff to work with regular short work boots that won't twist or dig in and is comfortable for the occasional user? I've read a lot about the geckos. Do they work good with short boots or do you need tall climbing boots.

If having a tall boot is the only solution, does anyone make a climbing boot with an integrated gaff? For me, it would make sense to have an integrated system as I would only wear the tall boot when climbing with gaffs.

Thanks for input.

Scott


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## TDunk (Jul 31, 2009)

I had some Kliens that use to do that. I bought a pair of the Weaver Super Climber pads, haven't had a prob. since. Plus the shanks don't dig into my leg like with the T-pads.


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

*here's some pad's I picked up a month or so back.*

They're called the "Big Buck" climbers from buckingham. I put them on my old buckingham spikes off my velcro wraps w/ insert. They're effin great! I was a bit hesitant to get another pad with a steel insert because of my bad experience with the velcro wraps but these are rock solid. No side to side movement at all. Comfy and secure. The main downfall that I can see thus far is it takes a minute or so to strap up. No biggie when your spending serious time aloft though. I got a few hundred hours on 'em and they're more comfortable now than they were out the box. Price? 86 bucks. Score.


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## arbor pro (Jul 31, 2009)

So, let's pretend I dont' even have the buckinghams and was looking to buy something from scratch rather than find a better pad to work with my buckinghams. Would I be better off buying geckos or something else or will a new pad alone make my buckinghams just as comfy WITH A SHORT BOOT as geckos or something else? Weight is not the issue here - it's preventing the twisting of the gaff and the digging into the side of my leg.

I wear echo boots which are fairly short. Though I am part-time, I will spend the money to get the most comfy gaffs available. It is worth it to me to be comfortable - even if I only use them a couple times a month.


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

Btw, I wear a chippewa boot. They're high top but nothing like those climber boots you see in the catalogs, well below the pads.


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

arbor pro said:


> So, let's pretend I dont' even have the buckinghams and was looking to buy something from scratch rather than find a better pad to work with my buckinghams. Would I be better off buying geckos or something else or will a new pad alone make my buckinghams just as comfy WITH A SHORT BOOT as geckos or something else? Weight is not the issue here - it's preventing the twisting of the gaff and the digging into the side of my leg.
> 
> I wear echo boots which are fairly short. Though I am part-time, I will spend the money to get the most comfy gaffs available. It is worth it to me to be comfortable - even if I only use them a couple times a month.



I've thought about getting geckos too, they do look comfy and light but I can't see spending that kind of money if they might fall apart. I'm pretty hard on my gear and spend a lot of time in it and it's difficult to judge which guys who recommend stuff actually use it everyday. Many people claim gecko's are "the bomb" but do they spend 40 hours a week in spikes? I can't drop that kinda change and have them fall apart in 6 mos like my stupid vlecro wraps with insert did.


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## arbor pro (Jul 31, 2009)

Blakesmaster said:


> They're called the "Big Buck" climbers from buckingham. I put them on my old buckingham spikes off my velcro wraps w/ insert. They're effin great! I was a bit hesitant to get another pad with a steel insert because of my bad experience with the velcro wraps but these are rock solid. No side to side movement at all. Comfy and secure. The main downfall that I can see thus far is it takes a minute or so to strap up. No biggie when your spending serious time aloft though. I got a few hundred hours on 'em and they're more comfortable now than they were out the box. Price? 86 bucks. Score.



So, are you wearing your gaffs with a tall climbing boot or with regular short hiking/work boots? Will these be comfy with a short echo boot?


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## Hddnis (Jul 31, 2009)

I wear the talon climbers. Once I finally adjusted them properly, by going one set of holes outside their range, they have been wonderful to wear. I have really long legs and they just didn't go tall enough using the three bolts. I went to two bolts and just upgraded the hardware to grade 8. Longest I've spent wearing them in the tree non-stop was seven hours. I was sore, but not beyond getting them on again for two more hours to finish the day.


Mr. HE


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

arbor pro said:


> So, are you wearing your gaffs with a tall climbing boot or with regular short hiking/work boots? Will these be comfy with a short echo boot?



I'd assume so. My Chippewa's do offer a bit more padding around the protruding ankle bone, whatever the hell it's called, but you can always wrap your lower strap on the spike for more padding. It'll help some, but you still might want to think about getting a boot that's an inch or 2 higher for more protection. Maybe there's a spike out there that doesn't rub that little ankle bone but I've used T pads, L pads, Velcro with insert, velcro without, and they all rub that ankle bone. If that's your main problem I can't help other than to say you need some different boots. I don't think you need to spend the money on those monster one's that go up to your knee though. They seem a bit unreasonable to me.


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

*This is my boot*






A bit higher than yours but not much. Not very good for golfing, though.


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## arbor pro (Jul 31, 2009)

Blakesmaster said:


> I'd assume so. My Chippewa's do offer a bit more padding around the protruding ankle bone, whatever the hell it's called, but you can always wrap your lower strap on the spike for more padding. It'll help some, but you still might want to think about getting a boot that's an inch or 2 higher for more protection. Maybe there's a spike out there that doesn't rub that little ankle bone but I've used T pads, L pads, Velcro with insert, velcro without, and they all rub that ankle bone. If that's your main problem I can't help other than to say you need some different boots. I don't think you need to spend the money on those monster one's that go up to your knee though. They seem a bit unreasonable to me.



My ankle bone isn't the problem. What bothers me is that the gaff itself tends to twist around to the front of my legs so the shaft is not to the side. Then the top pad digs into the area below my knee and it feels really funky. I try to strap them as tightly as I can but they just don't seem to stay on the side of my leg. When I installed the pads, i paid close attention to the directions and I'm pretty sure they're on right.

If someone sold a taller climbing boot with a gaff built into it as one unit, that would be the ticket for me. I'd just slip off the eccos and put on the climbing/gaff boots and not have to worry about whether they're strapped on right - just lace or velcro the boot onto my foot and I'm good to go. Seems like it would be a more solid system too if integrated into one piece with a removable spur rather than having to strap the gaff onto the boot every time. After all, who needs the tall boots when you're on the ground. That's what chaps are for if you're worried about cutting into the side of your leg with a saw. Chaps and a short boot with steel toe would be just fine. You don't need the tall climbing boot on the ground so why not just have the gaff built into it? 

(I ask this as a novice climber. I really would like to know why this would be a bad idea for the occasional climber/gaffer.


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## arbor pro (Jul 31, 2009)

Blakesmaster said:


> A bit higher than yours but not much. Not very good for golfing, though.



I have tried to wear taller boots for regular ground work but I don't like the rigidness of them for regular wear. Even for hunting, I seldom wear my expensive cabelas boots and end up wearing my eccos which are so so comfy but very short.


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## arbor pro (Jul 31, 2009)

Time to go do some tree work now. I'll check back on monday to see what else you guys have to say. Thanks Blakesmaster for the help so far!

Have a good weekend,

scott


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## treemandan (Jul 31, 2009)

arbor pro said:


> So, let's pretend I dont' even have the buckinghams and was looking to buy something from scratch rather than find a better pad to work with my buckinghams. Would I be better off buying geckos or something else or will a new pad alone make my buckinghams just as comfy WITH A SHORT BOOT as geckos or something else? Weight is not the issue here - it's preventing the twisting of the gaff and the digging into the side of my leg.
> 
> I wear echo boots which are fairly short. Though I am part-time, I will spend the money to get the most comfy gaffs available. It is worth it to me to be comfortable - even if I only use them a couple times a month.




I think your best bet is decent set of double strap pads or the like and some soccer shin pads which ended this problem for me for good.


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

arbor pro said:


> My ankle bone isn't the problem. What bothers me is that the gaff itself tends to twist around to the front of my legs so the shaft is not to the side. Then the top pad digs into the area below my knee and it feels really funky. I try to strap them as tightly as I can but they just don't seem to stay on the side of my leg. When I installed the pads, i paid close attention to the directions and I'm pretty sure they're on right.
> 
> If someone sold a taller climbing boot with a gaff built into it as one unit, that would be the ticket for me. I'd just slip off the eccos and put on the climbing/gaff boots and not have to worry about whether they're strapped on right - just lace or velcro the boot onto my foot and I'm good to go. Seems like it would be a more solid system too if integrated into one piece with a removable spur rather than having to strap the gaff onto the boot every time. After all, who needs the tall boots when you're on the ground. That's what chaps are for if you're worried about cutting into the side of your leg with a saw. Chaps and a short boot with steel toe would be just fine. You don't need the tall climbing boot on the ground so why not just have the gaff built into it?
> 
> (I ask this as a novice climber. I really would like to know why this would be a bad idea for the occasional climber/gaffer.



If your ankle bone isn't the problem and twisting is, get the Big Buck's I use. They'll work with your current gaff's and they're solid. The steel insert helps hold everything where it should be and the double straps up top provide some serious aid in that department as well. When I used the velcro wraps with insert I had the opposite issue you do, the steel insert would bend and the gaff would slowly work it's way around to the rear of my leg. Very uncomfortable. Go to page 31 of the new wespur catalog, pull out your phone and credit card and order the "Ultra Stiff Wrap Pads". Those one's are made by Baslin but look exactly the same construction as mine. ####, and they're 7 bucks cheaper.


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

arbor pro said:


> I have tried to wear taller boots for regular ground work but I don't like the rigidness of them for regular wear. Even for hunting, I seldom wear my expensive cabelas boots and end up wearing my eccos which are so so comfy but very short.



I like the tall boots, after a month or two they're no where near as rigid either. But like I said if your ankle's not the issue, you don't need 'em.


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## masiman (Jul 31, 2009)

That's good info to know Blakesmaster. I have the velcro wraps with insert and really like them. But I'm not climbing then 5 days a week. If your velcro wraps had not given out, would you have liked them better. I.e. were there any other issues with them besides the durability?

I'd go with trying to save the money. I think pads could really help. I could barely climb in my old T-pads. I probably wasn't too good a climber back then, but getting the velcro pads made a world of difference. If these velcros wear out, I'll probably go with the aluminum wraps to try them out.

Taking the wrap on the shank should help with the twisting.

Like BM says, if it is an ankle bone issue, maybe try the Gecko's or Kleins. They seem to give more room for the ankle bone based on how they look.


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

masiman said:


> That's good info to know Blakesmaster. I have the velcro wraps with insert and really like them. But I'm not climbing then 5 days a week. If your velcro wraps had not given out, would you have liked them better. I.e. were there any other issues with them besides the durability?
> 
> I'd go with trying to save the money. I think pads could really help. I could barely climb in my old T-pads. I probably wasn't too good with better pads back then, but getting the velcro pads made a world of difference. If these velcros wear out, I'll probably go with the aluminum wraps to try them out.
> 
> ...



Don't get me wrong, I LOVED the velcro wraps when I first got them. Super comfy, quick on and off, great, but they don't hold up. Once that steel ( or aluminum if you have the new version ) starts to tweak they get super painful very fast. I probably replaced my steel insert 6 times in the 2 years I had them. ( mind you I was only full time climbing the 2nd year of ownership ) IMO, if they simply found a better way to attach the top of the gaff to the pads they would have lasted much longer. 

It's hard to explain and those pads are long gone so I can't provide pics but if you have them, that little velcro strap that's supposed to hold the gaffs in place ( it's underneath the big velcro strap that attaches them to your leg ) is the weak link. It's not sturdy enough to hold the gaff and pads in the same position on extended climbs. As soon as that little attachment strap starts to shift it puts pressure on the insert which will eventually bend. I'm not a big guy ( about 200 lbs. last I checked ) and they wouldn't hold up. 

As far as the gecko's or kliens, I don't know. OD had a bad experience with Kliens durability which shy'ed me away from those. As far as the gecko's, people seem to like them but that's some serious coin to drop if they fall apart on ya.


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## Bearcreek (Jul 31, 2009)

I use the steel buckinghams with the aluminum leg pads and I love em. One of the guys I work with has gecko's that I've tried a few times and I've not been impressed. Mostly i'ts its the european shape spikes on them that I don't like, but I think the aluminum pads are more comfortable too. The gecko's are a bit overpriced for what you get IMO.


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## tree MDS (Jul 31, 2009)

Bearcreek said:


> I use the steel buckinghams with the aluminum leg pads and I love em. One of the guys I work with has gecko's that I've tried a few times and I've not been impressed. Mostly i'ts its the european shape spikes on them that I don't like, but I think the aluminum pads are more comfortable too. The gecko's are a bit overpriced for what you get IMO.



I've got them with the amercan spikes and they are mint. I hardly know that there on.

Blakes: I'm not sure of the long term durabilty (sinse mds has been bucket fortified for a couple years now, so no 40 hours climbing anymore here) however you can get parts, and the tip themselves require just an allen wrench and probably some locktite to swap out. Sure they aint cheap but I think theyre worth it - especially climbing that much.


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## Blakesmaster (Jul 31, 2009)

tree MDS said:


> Blakes: I'm not sure of the long term durabilty (sinse mds has been bucket fortified for a couple years now, so no 40 hours climbing anymore here) however you can get parts, and the tip themselves require just an allen wrench and probably some locktite to swap out. Sure they aint cheap but I think theyre worth it - especially climbing that much.



A bucket bunny, eh? Just kidding. I will probably pony up the bucks for a set of gecko's eventually but I was just trying to point AP toward something cheap and comfy. As far as those gecko's go, any idea how many hours you have on them and what's your weight, if you don't mind me askin'. Those things make a huge difference in the longevity of a spike.


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## iliketrees (Jul 31, 2009)

*caddy pads*

caddy pads will solve your problems. I was in the same boat not long ago. I mainly climb as a hobby, and prune and take down for friends and family. (I do climb professionally, just not trees. Rope access for rigging for the entertainment industry...) Anyway, I had the standard steel buckinghams with the leather "L" pads. Since I climb in spurs mabye 5 or 6 times a year, I cant justify spending money on geckos or 400 for a premium pair of boots. The cast aluminum pads, i got mine from wesspur, made 250% difference in comfort, and for only 60 or so. For some one like me who climbs rarely enough, much less on spurs, the caddy pads seem like a no brainer.


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## Bermie (Jul 31, 2009)

If the shank is twisting, try taking a wrap around the shank with the ankle strap, that keeps it locked in place for me, I found they would slip past the heel if I didn't wrap them, you might have to get a longer ankle strap, I have size 5 feet !...and tighten that top strap as tight as you can bear it.
I have a pair of Bashlin aluminums with leather pads...nothing fancy and they work just fine, five, six hours no problem, no shin chafe, they get used about once a month if that. 
I wear short boots, but they are chainsaw boots (SIP) so they have kevlar in betweeen the leather...maybe helps with padding?


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## treeoperations (Aug 1, 2009)

just drop the coin on the Geckos, i have some love them to bits, i dont spend 40 hours a week in mine, i only wear them when i have to, i hate spikes there a pain in the arse, ive had mine about 3 years and done about 500 hours on them and they look like new still


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## Dadatwins (Aug 1, 2009)

Are the gaffs adjusted properly? Have seen folks take them out of the box and strap them on without realizing they can be made longer to fit better. If your pad is over the widest point of your calf they will twist. Should be just below the knee. As for twisting, a wrap around the ankle strap can help, I find the pads with the insert, velcro wrap with insert, or the aluminum pads to work best to prevent twisting. The euc pads with 2 straps also work well.


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## Mike Cantolina (Aug 1, 2009)

I just skimmed the thread but I didn't see where anyone mentioned using offset stirrups (twisted shank). Taking a wrap on straight shanks does help but the offset shanks are much better. I just use regular l-shaped pads with no problems.

I climb with hiking shoes also with no problem.

I've used the same set since 1991 just replacing pads and gaffs when necessary.


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## treevet (Aug 1, 2009)

As many have said the big Euc type pad (I use velcro) and the wrap on the shank should work to stabilize the spike but your ankle still has to turn and if you are still getting pain try taking a small towel and wrapping it around your ankle and use the old standard, duct tape.

I get pain in the achilles sometimes and it works. Also if an all dayer I sometimes use a pair I have set up with foot plates.


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## tree MDS (Aug 1, 2009)

Blakesmaster said:


> A bucket bunny, eh? Just kidding. I will probably pony up the bucks for a set of gecko's eventually but I was just trying to point AP toward something cheap and comfy. As far as those gecko's go, any idea how many hours you have on them and what's your weight, if you don't mind me askin'. Those things make a huge difference in the longevity of a spike.



I'm only 160-165 lbs.

As far as hours on them go...I'm not really sure to be honest. probably not too many. I never really worried about how long they would last, just use em when I have to as someone else said. I'd reccomend them strongly though.

bucket bunny huh...yeah I suppose its getting like that some. Its more about just making money these days, though sometimes it seems too easy and I miss climbing, just not everything, every day. Besides I can offer my customers a better service with the truck, I find we can "give" (lol) more for thier money...

Get the spikes ya cheap skate, youll love em.


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## fishercat (Aug 1, 2009)

*yeah he has them.*



tree MDS said:


> I've got them with the amercan spikes and they are mint. I hardly know that there on.
> 
> Blakes: I'm not sure of the long term durabilty (sinse mds has been bucket fortified for a couple years now, so no 40 hours climbing anymore here) however you can get parts, and the tip themselves require just an allen wrench and probably some locktite to swap out. Sure they aint cheap but I think theyre worth it - especially climbing that much.



trust me,i have seen his outfit. he could break an anvil.


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## tree MDS (Aug 1, 2009)

fishercat said:


> trust me,i have seen his outfit. he could break an anvil.



A soft one maybe....


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## Bearcreek (Aug 1, 2009)

tree MDS said:


> I've got them with the amercan spikes and they are mint. I hardly know that there on.
> 
> Blakes: I'm not sure of the long term durabilty (sinse mds has been bucket fortified for a couple years now, so no 40 hours climbing anymore here) however you can get parts, and the tip themselves require just an allen wrench and probably some locktite to swap out. Sure they aint cheap but I think theyre worth it - especially climbing that much.



I didn't realize you could get them with the american style spikes. That would make a world of difference.


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## tree MDS (Aug 1, 2009)

Bearcreek said:


> I didn't realize you could get them with the american style spikes. That would make a world of difference.



Yeah, they kick a$$. I keep them so sharp that I rarely have to kick in too hard - unless hickory or some other nasty.

You can also interchange the tips, its all the same other than just the actual spike part. The tips are like 80 bucks I believe.


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## treevet (Aug 1, 2009)

You get em too sharp they get stuck and that's ng.


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## tree MDS (Aug 1, 2009)

treevet said:


> You get em too sharp they get stuck and that's ng.



Never had a problem....but I suppose its possible.. maybe too fat of a climber makes the spike dig too deep???

Burger King can be a MoFo on the waistline


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## fishercat (Aug 1, 2009)

*i was gonna grab some last time...........*



tree MDS said:


> Yeah, they kick a$$. I keep them so sharp that I rarely have to kick in too hard - unless hickory or some other nasty.
> 
> You can also interchange the tips, its all the same other than just the actual spike part. The tips are like 80 bucks I believe.



i was at Vermeer in Seymour.they only sell em with the euro gaffs.i told them to call me when they get some in with the american gaffs.


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## treevet (Aug 1, 2009)

tree MDS said:


> Never had a problem....but I suppose its possible.. maybe too fat of a climber makes the spike dig too deep???
> 
> Burger King can be a MoFo on the waistline



Always felt it was common knowledge you get em too sharp and smaller profile by sharpening they gonna stick in hard dead wood and be difficult to pull out (and that is what you should be spiking most of the time instead of live wood). Kinda like banging a nail in a tree and you need a claw on a hammer to pull out.

You been in the biz very long? no offense meant. I likely have one of the most hours on spikes on the forum.


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## fishercat (Aug 2, 2009)

*he's been on spikes a LONG time.*



treevet said:


> Always felt it was common knowledge you get em too sharp and smaller profile by sharpening they gonna stick in hard dead wood and be difficult to pull out (and that is what you should be spiking most of the time instead of live wood). Kinda like banging a nail in a tree and you need a claw on a hammer to pull out.
> 
> You been in the biz very long? no offense meant. I likely have one of the most hours on spikes on the forum.



i know from working with treeMDS.he's an excellent climber.i learned a lot working for him.if he says it,i'd pretty much take it to the bank.

still though,personal preference is what it is.


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## treevet (Aug 2, 2009)

fishercat said:


> still though,personal preference is what it is.




It is.


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## tree MDS (Aug 2, 2009)

treevet said:


> Always felt it was common knowledge you get em too sharp and smaller profile by sharpening they gonna stick in hard dead wood and be difficult to pull out (and that is what you should be spiking most of the time instead of live wood). Kinda like banging a nail in a tree and you need a claw on a hammer to pull out.
> 
> You been in the biz very long? no offense meant. I likely have one of the most hours on spikes on the forum.



Thats alright, no offense taken...probably deserved that for the burger king comment. lol, some beers yesterday must have been talking...sorry bud.

As far as my spikes go: I just like to keep em sharp thats all. I never mess with the angles sides part (other than a burr or two), just the flat part. 

Been in the biz 13 years now for myself. About 20 or 21 years treeworkin.


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## Blakesmaster (Aug 2, 2009)

tree MDS said:


> I'm only 160-165 lbs.
> 
> 
> Get the spikes ya cheap skate, youll love em.



Wass that, little man?  Yeah, I am pretty cheap. I even drink beer outta the can most times. I'll spend the dough when my current climbers call for replacement but I have a feeling that will be down the road a bit.


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## Blakesmaster (Aug 2, 2009)

tree MDS said:


> Thats alright, no offense taken...probably deserved that for the burger king comment. lol, some beers yesterday must have been talking...sorry bud.
> 
> As far as my spikes go: I just like to keep em sharp thats all. I never mess with the angles sides part (other than a burr or two), just the flat part.
> 
> Been in the biz 13 years now for myself. About 20 or 21 years treeworkin.



I have issues on some types of wood ( spruce, pine, most softwoods ) when my spikes are too sharp. Usually not an issue but I've found if I stand at the same spot too long with all my weight on the spikes they sink into the tree a bit far and can be hard to pull out. About a week after I sharpen them they get juuuuusssssst right for a few more weeks.


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## tree MDS (Aug 2, 2009)

Blakesmaster said:


> Wass that, little man?  Yeah, I am pretty cheap. I even drink beer outta the can most times. I'll spend the dough when my current climbers call for replacement but I have a feeling that will be down the road a bit.



Yo blakes! 

I got a stove grate I'll send you, see what you can fashion out of that big guy. :hmm3grin2orange:


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## arbor pro (Aug 3, 2009)

iliketrees said:


> caddy pads will solve your problems. I was in the same boat not long ago. I mainly climb as a hobby, and prune and take down for friends and family. (I do climb professionally, just not trees. Rope access for rigging for the entertainment industry...) Anyway, I had the standard steel buckinghams with the leather "L" pads. Since I climb in spurs mabye 5 or 6 times a year, I cant justify spending money on geckos or 400 for a premium pair of boots. The cast aluminum pads, i got mine from wesspur, made 250% difference in comfort, and for only 60 or so. For some one like me who climbs rarely enough, much less on spurs, the caddy pads seem like a no brainer.



After talking with a WesSpur rep this afternoon, I finally decided on the aluminum 'caddy' pads over the ultra stiff wrap pads. Sounds like either would make a big difference. I hope so. I should get them in a week. Unfortunately, I don't have any removals lined up for the next 2-3 weeks so will have to wait to see how they work...


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## Blakesmaster (Aug 3, 2009)

arbor pro said:


> After talking with a WesSpur rep this afternoon, I finally decided on the aluminum 'caddy' pads over the ultra stiff wrap pads. Sounds like either would make a big difference. I hope so. I should get them in a week. Unfortunately, I don't have any removals lined up for the next 2-3 weeks so will have to wait to see how they work...



Sounds good AP, I hear great things 'bout them caddy's too.


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## tstanbro (May 7, 2015)

arbor pro said:


> I have the old school buckingham steel spikes with leather pads and i hate climbing with them. They always twist on me and cut into my shins. I wear a short boot. I realize that wearing a tall climbing boot might help with this problem but, I just am an occasional climber (bucket truck baby) who does mostly pruning. I use spikes maybe a couple of times a month for removals when I can't get my aerial lift into the area. Tall climbing boots would seldom get worn except for when I wear spikes.
> 
> I do not have a problem with spending money on either better gaffs to wear with my short boots or on tall boots to wear with my buckinghams. As a worst case scenario, I would even consider buying both climbing boots and new spikes.
> 
> ...


Probably a little late here but are you wrapping the ankle strap around the spur shank one complete wrap.


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## Maineclimber (May 10, 2015)

arbor pro said:


> I have the old school buckingham steel spikes with leather pads and i hate climbing with them. They always twist on me and cut into my shins. I wear a short boot. I realize that wearing a tall climbing boot might help with this problem but, I just am an occasional climber (bucket truck baby) who does mostly pruning. I use spikes maybe a couple of times a month for removals when I can't get my aerial lift into the area. Tall climbing boots would seldom get worn except for when I wear spikes.
> 
> I do not have a problem with spending money on either better gaffs to wear with my short boots or on tall boots to wear with my buckinghams. As a worst case scenario, I would even consider buying both climbing boots and new spikes.
> 
> ...


Hey Scott, I see two problems creating your issue with your spikes. #1 I assume because u mentioned "old school" spikes that the shank is non-adjustable and therefore probably does not fit you properly in the first place, the ideal height is approx 1/2" under the bone that slightly protrudes from the inside of your knee, you may find it more comfy slightly lower but you ideally want the tallest shank you can comfortably wear. This makes a massive difference in the twisting of the spikes. And #2 the "t-pads" are basically the cheapest most non-user friendly pads made. I highly reccomend pads such as the "big buck" or "super climber" pads with double shin straps. I just bought the aluminum Climb Right tree spikes with the superclimbers pads. And as for the height of yor boot, I've used hikers and loggers both and either is fine but I prefer my loggers because the heel holds the spikes in place and less wear in my ankles. Personal preference there. Good luck!


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## simpleiowaguy (May 11, 2015)

I have big buck wraps with the buckingham velcro lowers as well and it doesn't matter what boot I wear. As long as it has a shank in it i'm comfortable all day


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## treesmith (May 13, 2015)

What's the difference between euro and American spikes, just gaff length?


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## Guran (May 20, 2015)

European style to the left above.


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## defensiblespace (May 31, 2015)

Geckos are worth every penny. I had an old pair of steel Buckingham spikes as well. They twisted all the time and were super uncomfortable. The Geckos are so comfy you barely even know they are there and they don't twist. I've had mine almost five years now and broke a spike once. Other than that, no problems and they're still in great shape.


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