# Stihl 048 Rebuild



## blsnelling (Apr 29, 2009)

I finally caught a lull in the action here and pulled the 048 parts from the box they arrived in several months ago. This old saw definately has some time on it! It looks to be complete though and in relatively good condition. Of course everything will be thoroughly cleaned. The original tank/handle is broken but a good one was included! I'll post updates once I get a little farther along. Here's a link to this model on Acre's site. LINK

Please ignore the "stuff" under my bench. I'd rather have cabinets with drawers. Oh well.


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## harrygrey382 (Apr 29, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I finally caught a lull in the action here and pulled the 048 parts from the box they arrived in several months ago. This old saw definately has some time on it! It looks to be complete though and in relatively good condition. Of course everything will be thoroughly cleaned. The original tank/handle is broken but a good one was included! I'll post updates once I get a little farther along. Here's a link to this model on Acre's site. LINK
> 
> Please ignore the "stuff" under my bench. I'd rather have cabinets with drawers. Oh well.


looks like a nice place to start Brad... You've got some cleaning ahead of you! Didn't realise they had metal tanks, must be a dense old thing. I'll watch with interest


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## kruege84 (Apr 29, 2009)

Other than the grime it looks to be in great shape. Since you're the one cleaning it, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.


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## Metals406 (Apr 29, 2009)

That's gonna be a cool saw when she's been snellerized!


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## fredmc (Apr 29, 2009)

*cool beens*

I can give you a little history on that saw. It was originally purchased for clearing the mountains for a natural gas pipeline. The pipeline is called the Texas eastern and it runs right through our county here in Pa. I believe it was completed in the late 80's. The saw was purchased later by an old guy in the neighborhood who gave it to me after it fell off the roof of his garage during construction. I then gave it to someone who will appreciate it.


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## blsnelling (Apr 29, 2009)

So there you have it folks. You now know more about it than I did previously. It's always cool to know where a saw came from and it's history. Thanks for a cool piece of history Fred. I know, I've made you wait a long time to see this thing go on the bench.

BTW, this saw will be put together stock. The most it might get is a squish adjustment since I'll likely be making the gasket anyway.


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## showrguy (Apr 29, 2009)

must be the "send brad a saw from Pa. week" ??


psst. i'm sendin him one too!!!!!!!


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## stinkbait (Apr 29, 2009)

I'm glad that you finally started on the 048. I have been waiting for you to do yours first, so that I will have your thread to read and follow with my 048 build. Take plenty of pics and don't leave out a bit of info.


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## blsnelling (Apr 29, 2009)

stinkbait said:


> I'm glad that you finally started on the 048. I have been waiting for you to do yours first, so that I will have your thread to read and follow with my 048 build. Take plenty of pics and don't leave out a bit of info.



Now you would have to go and make work out if it, LOL.


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## blsnelling (Apr 29, 2009)

showrguy said:


> must be the "send brad a saw from Pa. week" ??
> 
> 
> psst. i'm sendin him one too!!!!!!!



And I'm real excited to get this one! Can you find which one it is in my sig? I've had the 048 for a couple months though, I think.


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## outdoorlivin247 (Apr 29, 2009)

Ms440


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## blsnelling (Apr 29, 2009)

outdoorlivin247 said:


> Ms440



:chainsawguy::chainsawguy::chainsawguy:


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## blsnelling (Apr 30, 2009)

Not a lot of progress made yet. I do have a bunch of the parts soaking in the parts washer with Mineral Spirits in it. Those will come out this evening. I also ordered seals and gaskets from the dealer this morning.


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## stinkbait (Apr 30, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Not a lot of progress made yet. I do have a bunch of the parts soaking in the parts washer with Mineral Spirits in it. Those will come out this evening. I also ordered seals and gaskets from the dealer this morning.



My stihl dealer doesn't like you to buy parts from him unless you're getting him to install them. No thank you, come again or anything.


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## blsnelling (Apr 30, 2009)

stinkbait said:


> My stihl dealer doesn't like you to buy parts from him unless you're getting him to install them. No thank you, come again or anything.



My dealer probably makes more selling parts to me than he would selling me a couple new saws. Never an issue.


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## blsnelling (Apr 30, 2009)

I've got some minor issues with the replacement tank. My biggest concern is the two bosses that are missing for the two studs used to hold the air filter on. There is a different cover in the IPL that uses a twist lock, but I don't see one for sale on eBay.


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## blsnelling (Apr 30, 2009)

Actually this cover is only in the 042 IPL. Looks like I need this cover.





Instead of the one I have.





Strangely enough, both IPLs show the same PN for the tank, and there is no PN for the twist lock cover.


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## stinkbait (Apr 30, 2009)

So...what are you gonna do?


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## blsnelling (Apr 30, 2009)

stinkbait said:


> So...what are you gonna do?



I have two options the way I see it.


Find the filter cover that matches my tank (Prefered)
Mold in bosses of JBWeld, drill and tap for the studs, and use the existing cover. The hardest part here would be forming it up and keeping it there while it hardened. This really shouldn't be that hard to do. I'd just prefer to "do it right" with the right cover for the tank. Of course you could then argue that it wasn't the right cover since it's not found in the 048 IPL, only in the 042 IPL.


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## wigglesworth (Apr 30, 2009)

+1 for find the cover that fits the tank.


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## blsnelling (Apr 30, 2009)

Everything's cleaned up and ready for assembly except the muffler. Carb's clean and all. It'll certainly be much nicer to work on with all that grime gone!


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## wigglesworth (Apr 30, 2009)

That muffler is huge!!!


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## Sawdustmaker (Apr 30, 2009)

Is that just after a trip through the dishwasher?


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## blsnelling (Apr 30, 2009)

I actually cleaned it all by hand in my parts washer full of Mineral Spirits.


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## Sawdustmaker (May 1, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I actually cleaned it all by hand in my parts washer full of Mineral Spirits.



ohh... i was hoping all my parts would look like that when they come out of the dishwasher...


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## parrisw (May 1, 2009)

Cool build Brad, looking forward to the progress.


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

Sawdustmaker said:


> ohh... i was hoping all my parts would look like that when they come out of the dishwasher...



They will, seriously! I just wouldn't stick a crankcase with bearings and crankshaft in it. It will rust!

BTW, the crank feels great on this saw. With the seals removed, I flooded it with mineral spirits from the parts cleaner and let it flow from the inside out through the bearings as I rotated the crank. It took a while to get it perfectly smooth since this saw has sat so long with the cylinder off. There's no way this could have been accomplished without removing the seals. There's no play and they're totally smooth now. So that's a good step forward. The piston and rings are back on the saw, but the cylinder is just sitting there to keep it covered. I'm still waiting on gaskets.


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

Are you gonna paint the case? How does your paint hold up?


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

wigglesworth said:


> Are you gonna paint the case? How does your paint hold up?



I currently do not have plans to paint this saw. The Stihl grey paint is anything but durable. It chips easily and paint disolves it. I don't care how many months you let it cure. If I were to paint this saw, I'd never want to run it. If I leave it like it is, I can run it at will and not worry about it. Mechanically it will be 100%, but it will not be pretty.


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

> The Stihl grey paint is anything but durable.



I wonder if you can get it in non rattle can form and mix in some extra hardener? Or maybe poly the outside. I paint my bars and then put a coat of clear poly on it. It stays a long time, but you have to brush it on, so it is not perfectly smooth, but it is tough. Its made for industrial floors to cover paint. I dont remember the name though.


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

I experimented with clearcoating the Stihl grey. Both enamel and lacquer will blister it and ruin your work. Polyurethane was the only thing that didn't. I need to find a spray *clear *poly and try that. Your typical Minwax is yellowish. I wonder about the clear Varathan for floors?

Now you've got me thinking. The tank is in decent shape. I could paint the CC, recoil, and clutch cover and leave the tank original. That way I have the factory finish around the gasoline.


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

I will look monday at work and see what it is, but it does *not* yellow, clear and looks good. Sherwin Williams I think. You could probably thin it down and spray it. It is TOUGH stuff, I have a bar I have used for quite some time now and it still looks great.


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

I just remembered its Armorseal made by Sherwin williams


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## fredmc (May 1, 2009)

Hey Brad, you ever used baked on auto finish? Here at my work we have a paint shop-I could inquire about what the finishing guy Kevin would recommend? I think baked on enamel is gasoline resistant when cured.


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

fredmc said:


> Hey Brad, you ever used baked on auto finish? Here at my work we have a paint shop-I could inquire about what the finishing guy Kevin would recommend? I think baked on enamel is gasoline resistant when cured.



I painted both my 07S and 08s with automotive acrylic enamel. It works GREAT. But it cost about $75-$100 to paint each saw. When you're spending that much on paint, you put a lot more work into the job as well. I don't want to go that far with this saw. Any saw that I do up like that will NEVER see wood again. That's just me. I am very interested in checking out this SW clear though. Did you spray it over the Stihl grey?


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

I believe this is the stuff you're talking about. Armorseal


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

No, it wasn't stihl grey It was TSC ford gray. I just brushed it on, it smooths itself out, but you can still see some very minor brush marks, but on a bar, I didn't care. Turns out the stuff is tough as a pine knot. It is really thick, so I don't know how it would spray but it is oil based so im sure you could thin it. I will definitely be putting it on any case I paint. Dries clear as a bell. At least on the grey it did.


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

The stuff I linked to is a water-base urethane enamel.


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

> I believe this is the stuff you're talking about. Armorseal



Yes and no. I think the stuff we have is oil based, but I might be wrong.


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## fredmc (May 1, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I believe this is the stuff you're talking about. Armorseal



Actually that stuff looks like it would work well! I imagine baked on at 300 degrees that stuff would be tough. It can be thinned and sprayed also.


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

Here it is, I think its the floorthane

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pdf/products/armorseal_highperf.pdf


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

I thin and spray interior latex:jawdrop: Seriously. Like on louvered doors.


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

wigglesworth said:


> Here it is, I think its the floorthane
> 
> http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pdf/products/armorseal_highperf.pdf


That stuff is solvent based with a limited pot life. It would certainly have to be tested over the Stihl paint since it's so sensitive.


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

> I thin and spray interior latex Seriously. Like on louvered doors.



Come to think of it, I have too. LOL


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

Im telling you, you wont be disapointed did you read, resistant to impact, chemicals, and abrasion. It works.


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## fredmc (May 1, 2009)

I've stained decks with a stain filled bug sprayer:jawdrop:


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

fredmc said:


> I've stained decks with a stain filled bug sprayer:jawdrop:



Oh yeah


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## fredmc (May 1, 2009)

Unless you are in a hurry to paint, I can ask our supplier what he would recommend. There has to be an economical chem resist clear spray out there.
I can find out Monday?


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I believe this is the stuff you're talking about. Armorseal



I wonder how this stuff would do? Being water-based is a huge advantage to the buy spraying it in his garage. I would also expect it to bee ok over the Stihl paint. The 2-part floorthane I can almost guarantee you would lift the Stihl paint.


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

fredmc said:


> Unless you are in a hurry to paint, I can ask our supplier what he would recommend. There has to be an economical chem resist clear spray out there.
> I can find out Monday?



But the biggest problem to deal with is it lifting the Stihl grey paint. I'd love to find a clear I could just shoot over the Stihl Grey and add durability and fuel resistance. Do me a favor and ask him about this water-based product.


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## fredmc (May 1, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> But the biggest problem to deal with is it lifting the Stihl grey paint. I'd love to find a clear I could just shoot over the Stihl Grey and add durability and fuel resistance. Do me a favor and ask him about this water-based product.



I will, I just wrote it down on my to do list for Mon.


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## outdoorlivin247 (May 1, 2009)

I have some water based Dream Koat in my garage...It is the same style product as the Armorseal...If you want I can bring some to the GTG...I have used the stuff over everything, plastics, wicker lawn furn, wood, cement and it works wonders...


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## wigglesworth (May 1, 2009)

I have also used it over rustoleum gray. Didnt lift it. Is the stihl paint that bad it will lift? Maybe im missing something???


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

wigglesworth said:


> I have also used it over rustoleum gray. Didnt lift it. Is the stihl paint that bad it will lift? Maybe im missing something???



Absolutely. The Stihl paint is that sensitive. Both enamel and lacquer will lift it. Gasoline simply disolves it.


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## fredmc (May 1, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Absolutely. The Stihl paint is that sensitive. Both enamel and lacquer will lift it. Gasoline simply disolves it.



Even after heat curing?


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

fredmc said:


> Even after heat curing?



I honestly can't remember if I tried clear-coating after putting it in the oven or not. Gasoline? Absolutely. Does not stand up at all. It literally just disolves it.


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## fredmc (May 1, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I honestly can't remember if I tried clear-coating after putting it in the oven or not. Gasoline? Absolutely. Does not stand up at all. It literally just disolves it.



You could always run a test on an old piece of magnesium. I know muffler paint comes off until you run it and bake it on.


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## Metals406 (May 1, 2009)

Brad... I called on an Acrylic Polyurethane Enamel made by a company in Oregon... They'll mix custom colors a gallon at a time. I forgot to ask about price, but I imagine a gallon would do a dozen saws or better?

Chemical, fuel, and impact resistant. They can mix by a sample you send them, or a picture online.

http://forrestpaint.com/index.php?page=acrylic-polyurethane-enamel

I talked to Wendy about it in the Eugene store--but for custom mixed stuff she said to talk to Greg Davis at the factory EXT. 324...

Phone# 1-541-868-1222
Or 1-800-537-7201


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

fredmc said:


> You could always run a test on an old piece of magnesium. I know muffler paint comes off until you run it and bake it on.



I may grab a can of the Minwax clear Varathane and give it a try. Being able to use aerosol cans is a huge advantage for a hobbiest.


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Brad... I called on an Acrylic Polyurethane Enamel made by a company in Oregon... They'll mix custom colors a gallon at a time. I forgot to ask about price, but I imagine a gallon would do a dozen saws or better?
> 
> Chemical, fuel, and impact resistant. They can mix by a sample you send them, or a picture online.
> 
> ...



You just jogged my memory! There's a good old fashioned hardware store in Findlay that mixes tractor and implement paint. They can scan and custom mix it as you mentioned. They even sell a hardener for it if I recall. It's way more economical than acrylic enamel, though I'm sure not as good. It would certainly be better than the Stihl grey. I would loose the convenience of an aerosol can though. A couple coats and then rinsing out the gun with Mineral Spirits wouldn't be that big a deal though. I'm headed up there this afternoon. I think I'll grab a new clutch cover and take it along. That stuff is designed for exactly the kind of conditions a chainsaw sees. Lots of oil, gasoline, and the like.


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## Metals406 (May 1, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> You just jogged my memory! There's a good old fashioned hardware store in Findlay that mixes tractor and implement paint. They can scan and custom mix it as you mentioned. They even sell a hardener for it if I recall. It's way more economical than acrylic enamel, though I'm sure not as good. It would certainly be better than the Stihl grey. I would loose the convenience of an aerosol can though. A couple coats and then rinsing out the gun with Mineral Spirits wouldn't be that big a deal though. I'm headed up there this afternoon. I think I'll grab a new clutch cover and take it along. That stuff is designed for exactly the kind of conditions a chainsaw sees. Lots of oil, gasoline, and the like.



Implement enamel is pretty tough... The key to the stuff from Forrest Paint, is it has a Polyurethane element, and it's catalyzed.


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## blsnelling (May 1, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Implement enamel is pretty tough... The key to the stuff from Forrest Paint, is it has a Polyurethane element, and it's catalyzed.



That should make it perform about like the acrylic enamel I used, right?


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## Metals406 (May 1, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> That should make it perform about like the acrylic enamel I used, right?



It's my understanding the polyurethane element is the key... There are a lot of Acrylic Enamels out there, but this is an Acrylic Polyurethane Enamel... I believe Greg Davis, at the factory, would be better able to describe it's characteristics than I can.

I just know it's tough stuff, based on what they advertise.


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## blsnelling (May 2, 2009)

Now you've gone and made me do it. This rebuild is going to be a lot more work now. But a nice old 048 deserves it. I was at the big harware store in Findlay today and bought the paint. I had a bar cover with a fresh coat of Stihl Grey on it which they scanned. The paint is Ace Hardware tractor and implement enamel. They also sold me a hardner/catalyst with polyurethane to add to it. This should be some durable stuff. The catalyst says to mix 1/2 to 1 pint with one gallon of paint. How would you recommend I mix it? I was surprised to see that it has a pot life of 24 hours once mixed. I would have guessed less. The quart of paint was onlyh $8 and the 1/2 pint of catalyst $13. That'll paint several saws. So it should be way more durable and cheaper than Stihl aerosol cans, just more trouble to clean up. Well worth the effort I'd say.


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## Metals406 (May 2, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Now you've gone and made me do it. This rebuild is going to be a lot more work now. But a nice old 048 deserves it. I was at the big harware store in Findlay today and bought the paint. I had a bar cover with a fresh coat of Stihl Grey on it which they scanned. The paint is Ace Hardware tractor and implement enamel. They also sold me a hardner/catalyst with polyurethane to add to it. This should be some durable stuff. The catalyst says to mix 1/2 to 1 pint with one gallon of paint. How would you recommend I mix it? I was surprised to see that it has a pot life of 24 hours once mixed. I would have guessed less. The quart of paint was onlyh $8 and the 1/2 pint of catalyst $13. That'll paint several saws. So it should be way more durable and cheaper than Stihl aerosol cans, just more trouble to clean up. Well worth the effort I'd say.



Did they give you mixing cups Brad? That way you can do the math, and mix a little at a time... 







If they didn't give you any, you should be able to get them in any paint section of most stores. They're invaluable for mixing paints in the correct ratio.


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## blsnelling (May 2, 2009)

I have the necessary mixing cups. What's unclear is that the instructions on the catalyst say 1/2 to 1 pints per gallon. I'm not sure why the range or what difference it would make.


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## parrisw (May 2, 2009)

For mixing I use a paint mixing stick. Its got all different ratio's labeled on it, works for any paint, and you don't need to keep buying special cups to mix.


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## parrisw (May 2, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I have the necessary mixing cups. What's unclear is that the instructions on the catalyst say 1/2 to 1 pints per gallon. I'm not sure why the range or what difference it would make.



I'm guessing its to do on how fast you want it to go off. I'd personally use the least amount necessary.


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## blsnelling (May 2, 2009)

parrisw said:


> I'm guessing its to do on how fast you want it to go off. I'd personally use the least amount necessary.



Thanks. If I can get the benefit with 1/2 pint per gallon, that's what I'll do. As long as the durablilty is the same, I don't mind a few more hours drying time.


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## parrisw (May 2, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Thanks. If I can get the benefit with 1/2 pint per gallon, that's what I'll do. As long as the durablilty is the same, I don't mind a few more hours drying time.



Ya, and it costs less too.


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## Metals406 (May 3, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Thanks. If I can get the benefit with 1/2 pint per gallon, that's what I'll do. As long as the durablilty is the same, I don't mind a few more hours drying time.



Brad, Use the max catalyst in the paint... It will make the paint more durable.


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## parrisw (May 3, 2009)

I've never had a problem using the min amount. But I've never done it on a saw. So??? Do what you got to do I guess.


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## Metals406 (May 3, 2009)

parrisw said:


> I've never had a problem using the min amount. But I've never done it on a saw. So??? Do what you got to do I guess.



When Brad posted about the catalyst, I remembered something a body man friend of mine told me about hardener... The more hardener, the more durable the finish... So I Googled it to see if I remembered right.

I'm sure it'll be fine either way.


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## parrisw (May 3, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> When Brad posted about the catalyst, I remembered something a body man friend of mine told me about hardener... The more hardener, the more durable the finish... So I Googled it to see if I remembered right.
> 
> I'm sure it'll be fine either way.



I wonder how much a difference it will make?


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## Metals406 (May 3, 2009)

parrisw said:


> I wonder how much a difference it will make?



Dunno? All I remember is what my paint buddy told me, and I found that bit of info with a search on Google... The more hardener, the more durable the finish I guess?

It does cut down on your working time though. I guess Brad could try the min and then the max, and compare the two for durability?


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## parrisw (May 3, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Dunno? All I remember is what my paint buddy told me, and I found that bit of info with a search on Google... The more hardener, the more durable the finish I guess?
> 
> It does cut down on your working time though. I guess Brad could try the min and then the max, and compare the two for durability?



Ya, got to wonder if it just makes the paint harder??? And maybe that would make it more susceptible to chipping??


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## Metals406 (May 3, 2009)

parrisw said:


> Ya, got to wonder if it just makes the paint harder??? And maybe that would make it more susceptible to chipping??



I think the polyurethane will make it not want to chip?


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## parrisw (May 3, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> I think the polyurethane will make it not want to chip?



Ya, your probably right. I'm just used the the acrylic enamel.


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## pioneerguy600 (May 3, 2009)

parrisw said:


> Ya, got to wonder if it just makes the paint harder??? And maybe that would make it more susceptible to chipping??



You got it right. I paint all my old restorations with polyurethane 3 component paint and have done 20 or saws so far. The least amount of hardner gives you the longest pot life and the paint takes much longer to set up and stays a little softer and is more chip resistant but less durable to abrasion/scuffing. The maximum amount of hardener shortens pot life to a couple of hours, the paint sets up real quick and the shine is locked in also but the paint will be very easy to chip off in bigger chips but the abrasion /scuffing resistance will be greater. I personally go with a halfway inbetween mix and cannot complain about the results. On work saws it stands up really well to all the things that damage regular paint, my 066 is used all the time in the woods falling and limbing plus bucking and has shown no significant wear since painting it in January.
Pioneerguy600


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## parrisw (May 3, 2009)

pioneerguy600 said:


> You got it right. I paint all my old restorations with polyurethane 3 component paint and have done 20 or saws so far. The least amount of hardner gives you the longest pot life and the paint takes much longer to set up and stays a little softer and is more chip resistant but less durable to abrasion/scuffing. The maximum amount of hardener shortens pot life to a couple of hours, the paint sets up real quick and the shine is locked in also but the paint will be very easy to chip off in bigger chips but the abrasion /scuffing resistance will be greater. I personally go with a halfway inbetween mix and cannot complain about the results. On work saws it stands up really well to all the things that damage regular paint, my 066 is used all the time in the woods falling and limbing plus bucking and has shown no significant wear since painting it in January.
> Pioneerguy600



Nice work, good to hear info from first hand experience.

Thanks


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

I decided it would be easier to get my small sandblasting cabinet out than to try to sand this all down. I knew it would do a better job of roughing up the surface in all the little nooks and cranies too. The bar cover was all chipped up so I stripped it all the way down, exposing some corrosion. The tank didn't have a lot of wear, so I left most of the original finish on it.












I used the primer from Ace that is intended for use with this paint. It took less than one can to do all the parts.


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

I mixed the hardener at the strongest 1:8 ratio, or 1 pint/gallon. I mixed up 12 oz of paint, 1.5 oz of hardener, and 2-3 oz of paint thinner. The paint went on beautifully without a single run. Actually, the challenge was to get it to flow out. I was being conservative with the air pressure and flow though, 40 PSI and then regulated further on the gun. These pics are all of the first coat. The second coat went on nicely as well with no runs or sags that I saw. 


























I'm sure hopeful for a nice durable finish. This is WAY cheaper than going with automotice paint. Instead of $75-$100 per saw, this may cost me about $12 That's cheaper than Stihl paint, but is a little more work since I have to clean up the gun. That's no biggie though.


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## parrisw (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I mixed the hardener at the strongest 1:8 ratio, or 1 pint/gallon. I mixed up 12 oz of paint, 1.5 oz of hardener, and 2-3 oz of paint thinner. The paint went on beautifully without a single run. Actually, the challenge was to get it to flow out. I was being conservative with the air pressure and flow though, 40 PSI and then regulated further on the gun. These pics are all of the first coat. The second coat went on nicely as well with no runs or sags that I saw.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Nice work, looks good. What was the exact name of that paint??


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

parrisw said:


> what was the exact name of that paint??



"ace rust stop" machine & implement enamel


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## parrisw (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> "ace rust stop" machine & implement enamel



Cool, thanks. I'm going to see if they have it here, for my next paint job.


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## parrisw (May 5, 2009)

Are you going to clear coat it after???


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

I haven't planned on it. Of course I didn't plan on painting this saw at all either. So let me rephrase my answer. Do you want me to clear coat it, LOL?


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## parrisw (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I haven't planned on it. Of course I didn't plan on painting this saw at all either. So let me rephrase my answer. Do you want me to clear coat it, LOL?



ha ha ha. I don't know??? Does it need clear?


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

parrisw said:


> ha ha ha. I don't know??? Does it need clear?



I say no. This isn't a museum quality rebuild. It's just a repainted saw.

Now how about putting this paint in the oven. I always do the Stihl paint. I set the over to its lowest temp at 175F and leave it in there a couple hours. How long should I way before doing so? Should it be dry to touch, or does it not matter? I found it odd that the instructions on the hardener/catalyst said the the drying times would be *longer*


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## Metals406 (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I say no. This isn't a museum quality rebuild. It's just a repainted saw.
> 
> Now how about putting this paint in the oven. I always do the Stihl paint. I set the over to its lowest temp at 175F and leave it in there a couple hours. How long should I way before doing so? Should it be dry to touch, or does it not matter? I found it odd that the instructions on the hardener/catalyst said the the drying times would be *longer*



Are you supposed to bake it? If it doesn't say it on the instructions, I wouldn't do it... Thats how I got in trouble with that muffler of yours.

If this turns out to be really durable... I think a lot of folks will be going to Ace Hardware for saw paint.


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## Dan_IN_MN (May 5, 2009)

*Using hardener/catalyst*

I hope you guys are using a respirator when using paints with hardener/catalyst in them. That stuff is really tough on a guys lungs.

Looking good!

Dan


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## fredmc (May 5, 2009)

I like the way the paint looks, I want to paint some older magnesium I have. Can they mix any color at ace?
I talked to our paint guy here and he told me the same thing you already know-implement paint. He said if the parts are small enough you can dip and drip before you heat cure.


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

The paint is completely tack free this morning, and already quite hard. I tried to print it with my thumb and it did not. That's pretty fast drying for enamel. It's hanging from the cabinets in the kitchen since I figure the humidity is lower inside. With any luck I'll have some seals and gaskets this afternoon. I'll be working on a towel over the bench with this one

Here are the paint products I used. I bought them at Mastersons in Findlay, OH. They are a large old fashioned hardware store. I would think you should be able to by this at many Ace Hardware stores.





Notice the prices. I threw away about 8-10 oz of the 16 I mixed up too. There's enough here to do several more saws.






I'm officially hunting for this other style filter cover with the twist lock. Not only does it not screw onto my tank, it also doesn't even fit it properly. I'm sure it could be made to work, but I want the right one. Please let me know if you can help me out on this part.






BTW, be careful not to bump the copper outlet pipe of your air compressor after sandblasting for a while! Believe it or not, it doesn't hurt.


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## fredmc (May 5, 2009)

nice blister! no pain no gain eh?


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

fredmc said:


> nice blister! no pain no gain eh?



It's hard to see, but it stands pretty tall too! Well over an 1/8". I'll need a towel when it pops, LOL.


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## stinkbait (May 5, 2009)

I use the valspar tractor enamel from tractor supply. It is basically the same thing (just the tractor supply brand). It is pretty much gas proof after it fully cures.


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

stinkbait said:


> I use the valspar tractor enamel from tractor supply. It is basically the same thing (just the tractor supply brand). It is pretty much gas proof after it fully cures.



Can they custom color match it? I'll post up the recipe they came up with for me a little later.


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## stinkbait (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> Can they custom color match it? I'll post up the recipe they came up with for me a little later.



I don't know about that, probably not, but not sure. Between all of the name-branded tractor colors and the other standard colors, there is a lot to choose from. I am thinking about using the ford tan color for my old stihl 08s and then finding a really close match for the orange. You can also get this paint in spay cans. The only difference is the spray can paint takes quite a bit longer to cure, but is just as durable and gas resistant.


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

fredmc said:


> Can they mix any color at ace?



They sure can. They had a machine at the desk that they scanned my freshly painted clutch cover with that had been painted with Stihl paint.


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

Here's the formula for the color I'm using. I had them scan a clutch cover with a fresh coat of Stihl Grey paint.


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## sefh3 (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> It's hard to see, but it stands pretty tall too! Well over an 1/8". I'll need a towel when it pops, LOL.



Your going to need more that a towell when that pops. It's going to be messy.


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

sefh3 said:


> Your going to need more that a towell when that pops. It's going to be messy.



The skin's still holding up. I'll leave the fluid in there until it pops on its own. Still doesn't hurt either


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## Metals406 (May 5, 2009)

I've had me some nice blisters being a welder... That one looks like a good one!

So did I read right that you can put this paint in the oven?


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

I made lots of progress tonight. Most of the saw is together. Of course I've got a list of small parts I need. That always happens when you start with a box of parts and bag of bolts. The Biggest thing is one of the front AV mounts is totally shot and didn't come in yet. I also need a gas cap. The muffler still needs work too, but is fixable. It's a shame I can't get new plastic for this thing. She's a beaut now and deserves it! I haven't worked on this plastic at all yet, so it won't look this bad. The loop handle needs painting, and the brake handle needs more cleaning. So far I'm very impressed with the paint. Here I just painted this thing with enamel less than 24 hours ago and it's already assembled. No problems handling it at all.


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## barneyrb (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I made lots of progress tonight. Most of the saw is together. Of course I've got a list of small parts I need. That always happens when you start with a box of parts and bag of bolts. The Biggest thing is one of the front AV mounts is totally shot and didn't come in yet. I also need a gas cap. The muffler still needs work too, but is fixable. It's a shame I can't get new plastic for this thing. She's a beaut now and deserves it! I haven't worked on this plastic at all yet, so it won't look this bad. The loop handle needs painting, and the brake handle needs more cleaning. So far I'm very impressed with the paint. Here I just painted this thing with enamel less than 24 hours ago and it's already assembled. No problems handling it at all.



LOOKS GREAT!!!!! However if I set a saw (no matter if new, rebuilt, restored or grungy) on my wife's dining room table I'd be shot on the spot.


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## parrisw (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I made lots of progress tonight. Most of the saw is together. Of course I've got a list of small parts I need. That always happens when you start with a box of parts and bag of bolts. The Biggest thing is one of the front AV mounts is totally shot and didn't come in yet. I also need a gas cap. The muffler still needs work too, but is fixable. It's a shame I can't get new plastic for this thing. She's a beaut now and deserves it! I haven't worked on this plastic at all yet, so it won't look this bad. The loop handle needs painting, and the brake handle needs more cleaning. So far I'm very impressed with the paint. Here I just painted this thing with enamel less than 24 hours ago and it's already assembled. No problems handling it at all.



Looks really good Brad, as always very nice work. 

Question for ya. How do you get the crankcase so clean before paint?? Without seperating the case halves. I got a 038 that could use some paint, it looks like hell, but runs like a champ!!


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

parrisw said:


> Question for ya. How do you get the crankcase so clean before paint?? Without seperating the case halves.



The CC was stripped and the seals out. I washed it in my parts washer and then further cleaned with carb cleaner. DO NOT let the carb cleaner soak at all. It will release the original finish. I sanded the most exposed areas. I don't go crazy on surface prep of the case. Very little of it even shows.


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## FATGUY (May 5, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I made lots of progress tonight. Most of the saw is together. Of course I've got a list of small parts I need. That always happens when you start with a box of parts and bag of bolts. The Biggest thing is one of the front AV mounts is totally shot and didn't come in yet. I also need a gas cap. The muffler still needs work too, but is fixable. It's a shame I can't get new plastic for this thing. She's a beaut now and deserves it! I haven't worked on this plastic at all yet, so it won't look this bad. The loop handle needs painting, and the brake handle needs more cleaning. So far I'm very impressed with the paint. Here I just painted this thing with enamel less than 24 hours ago and it's already assembled. No problems handling it at all.



ever consider taking it down to the polish shop instead?


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

FATGUY said:


> ever consider taking it down to the polish shop instead?



I want to keep this saw as original as possible. I like to use truck bed liner on the black handles. It does chip though.


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## blsnelling (May 5, 2009)

*I need some help with a couple things here guys.*

I've got a part that I can't figure out where it goes from the IPL. It's item 1 in Illustration J, the chain brake page.

I'm also trying to figure out how the front AV goes together. Like I said, one of my mounts is shot. Check out Illustration C in the IPL. Does collar bolt 30 go all the way through both AV mounts and screw into the case on the other side? And then what is locking screw 29?


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## clutch25 (May 6, 2009)

Looks great Brad!!!!

Sorry for the psuedo hijack, but I have a buddy who does tractor resto's and he has been bugging me to paint the bar on my 460....I will post what he uses and how...I think I might strip it down and do the Sugi, polished bar with clear...


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## blsnelling (May 6, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> *I need some help with a couple things here guys.*
> 
> I've got a part that I can't figure out where it goes from the IPL. It's item 1 in Illustration J, the chain brake page.
> 
> I'm also trying to figure out how the front AV goes together. Like I said, one of my mounts is shot. Check out Illustration C in the IPL. Does collar bolt 30 go all the way through both AV mounts and screw into the case on the other side? And then what is locking screw 29?



I figured out where item 1 goes in Illustartion J. I noticed the wear marks from the brake spring. It goes under the clutch cover, just below the long spring.

On the front AV, I found that I do have collar bolt 30 and know where it goes. I was browsing through eBay 042/048 parts and found an actual picture of one. What secures the AV bushing on the other side? Is that what locking screw 29 is? Does it simply go through to the other side and simply fasten it to the crankcase?


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## blsnelling (May 6, 2009)

I really wish I had gotten a good shot of this shroud before sanding it down last night. Of course all the grime washed off, but what you can't see is that someone's name was scraped in it. You can see the big X scraped very deeply into it. I used my 1/4 orbital sander and was able to remove it all. There was also a lot of staining that I was able to remove.

This morning I started spray on coats of Rustoleum Crystal Clear enamel. This is 10-11 coats later. It took that much to cover the fibers of the nylon plastic. Unless the fibers poke back through as it dries tonight, I'm done. I'll then rivet the old model plate back on since they're NLA. I wish it were still daylight so that I could get the same lighting that was on the sanded parts this morning.


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## FATGUY (May 6, 2009)

out of curiosity, is the clear coat the same as the one you saw in the shop? I remember you saying it was a different label, but same stuff.... As always, great work Brad


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## parrisw (May 6, 2009)

Looks good Brad. 

Dang I need to get my but in gear on my projects.


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## blsnelling (May 7, 2009)

I got the model plate riveted back on and in better light for these pics. I'll try to get the loop handle and muffler done later today, perhaps tomorrow since I have a saw to port today as well.


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## lcso10 (May 7, 2009)

I think I sent you a PM about the air filter cover. Check and see.


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## blsnelling (May 7, 2009)

lcso10 said:


> I think I sent you a PM about the air filter cover. Check and see.



Got it!!!


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## blsnelling (May 14, 2009)

Here she is in all her new found beauty. She looks and runs like a dream!


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## blsnelling (May 14, 2009)

A great big thank you goes out to *lcso10 *for sending me a NOS air filter cover and AV mount that were both NLA! The purest will realize that this filter cover was probably only found on the 042. The only other difference is the handle moulding on the top of the rear handle. It's about 1/2" shorter than on the 048. I've not yet been able to find one. The one that is on it is for a 048 and I ground it down to fit. The PN I need is 1118 791 0601.


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## Tzed250 (May 14, 2009)

Looks beautiful!!! You still need an 028 though...


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## Motodeficient (May 14, 2009)

Wow looks amazing. Are you planning on running it? Its too purty to get used out in the woods now!

How about a video?


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## Metals406 (May 14, 2009)

Another beautiful saw at the hands of the Snellerizer! Now, on to the 064?


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## parrisw (May 14, 2009)

Looks great Brad!!


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## outdoorlivin247 (May 14, 2009)

Very nice...Now are you going to put it in wood or just hang it from the rafters?...


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## blsnelling (May 14, 2009)

It has made it's way to the basement where the pretty restoration saws are over my desk. You guys are the ones that made me paint it! Don't blame me for not getting to see it in wood. Actually, it would be a big deal. It would clean up just fine.


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## blsnelling (May 14, 2009)

Metals406 said:


> Another beautiful saw at the hands of the Snellerizer! Now, on to the 064?



I've got the new tank and engine shroud on the 064. I haven't yet stripped the blistered paing off the muffler cover yet though. I spent all night tonight disassemblind, cleaning and painting a MS440 I'm trying to get ready for next weekends GTG. The 064 will definately be going.


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## blsnelling (May 14, 2009)

Tzed250 said:


> Looks beautiful!!! You still need an 028 though...



I noticed that this baby looks a lot like my 038 Mag. I've been watching for a 028 Super to go with it anyway


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## Metals406 (May 14, 2009)

blsnelling said:


> I've got the new tank and engine shroud on the 064. I haven't yet stripped the blistered paing off the muffler cover yet though. I spent all night tonight disassemblind, cleaning and painting a MS440 I'm trying to get ready for next weekends GTG. The 064 will definately be going.



YAAAAY!!  LOL

Is impatience a virtue?? Hahaha


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## matt9923 (Sep 6, 2009)

Awesome job. What grit paper did you use on the orbital? 

Whats the best paint to buy in a can for this? I don't have my airguns anymore or a big enough compressor for that matter. 

Matt


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