# Off Subject Transmixer Repair



## Termite (Mar 5, 2015)

The transmission on my wife's 2005 Expedition is slipping in third gear. It started suddenly and will not pull at all. I checked a few things but I have come to the conclusion it needs a rebuild. I am thinking of doing it myself.
I did a 400Turbo one time and it was a success. I watched a 30 minute dis assembly video and a one hour assembly video and it doesn't look too bad. Has anyone else tried one of these. It is a 4r75e. It is basically the Ford AOD with some upgrades.


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## auskip07 (Mar 5, 2015)

Im much better at engine's so i leave transmissions to the specialists. If you feel confident and have some experience and most importantly have TIME you should tackle it.


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## SS Sniper (Mar 5, 2015)

The only transmission I've done is the ZF-5. I'd imagine automatics are a lot more involved but I don't know
But like said, if you think you can do it, and most importantly have the time, then go ahead
http://www.f150online.com/forums/transmissions/491619-4r75e-tranny-rebuild.html


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## D3B Dave (Mar 5, 2015)

In a past life, I was a transmission rebuilder. Having done complete rebuilds on over 5500 units. Most were high performance units. I don't drop names, but you have probably seen some of my transmissions in various types of vehicles

If you have rebuilt a TH 400, then you have rebuilt a compound planet trans. They are one of the two types of transmissions regardless of make or model. There is a compound planet and a split planet type.

A 4R75E is a mix of both. If you have been in a TH 400 and it worked with no worries, then you can do a 4R75E.

4R75E stands for 4 speeds, Rear wheel drive, 750 f.t lbs. torque rated, Electronic controlled.

The design started back in 1980 when Ford made the AOD trans. A 4R75E is an upgraded version.

Do a tear down paying attention to every part and placement. Be careful with the wiring as it can cause grief later. 

PM me and I can give you some tips. Just remember that if someone else put it together then you can too.

Good luck,
Dave


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## RedFir Down (Mar 5, 2015)

I know it might sound silly but try doing a treatment of Seafoam Trans Tune.
I have heard several good things about. For instance, my folks car (a 2005 Honda Accord) started shifting funny and around 35-37 mph it had a pretty severer "shutter/shimmy" to it. We ran a bottle of Trans Tune through it and it drives like new. 
I know your issue is more extreme but I would be willing to give it a try. If any thing else the inside of the transmission will be alot cleaner for our rebuild.


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## Bilge Rat LT 20 (Mar 5, 2015)

Have an area that is very clean to assemble the trans in.
Try to do it in a day/weekend. You can remember things better with less time between teardown and rebuild.


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## Termite (Mar 5, 2015)

Thanks Dave, when I get into it I might take you up on that support.


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## blades (Mar 6, 2015)

Termite how many miles on the tranny- they have a habit of disintegrating(3rd & 4th) bands around the 100k mark also the rear shaft bearing is a bit problem prone. Drop the pan if you can that will pretty much tell the story right quick.


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## Fubar (Mar 13, 2015)

i have rebuilt a 350 turbo and a 700 r 4 , never fooled with a ford transmission , i would say the principle is still the same as the 400 turbo you built , look for the ford service and repair manual on the 4r75e , and it should reveal all the particulars of rebuilding that model .


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## auskip07 (Mar 13, 2015)

wonder how it went?


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## Termite (Mar 13, 2015)

Time for an update. 
First, I dropped the pan. The oil looked good and very little crude on the magnet. Next,I removed the valve body. I found a snap ring on a servo broken, I think that's what it's called, but only about one inch and it could not cock. I also checked the solenoids with an ohm meter.
So with nothing obviously wrong I decided to remove the transmission. It's kind of a tough nut to crack but I got it out. I am glad I have an in ground lift. It would be a very tough job laying on your back.
I went about taking it apart and was I surprised. I have found absolutely nothing obviously wrong. Everything looked like new. No burnt, clutches no broken springs, all the bearings are good.
I don't like not finding the problem. I am thinking it is something in the valve body or electrical. I am waiting for more advice from D3B Dave on how to proceed and what parts to buy. A friend gave me a manual on AODe transmissions It is similar to the 4r75e.

Oh, the trans has 130k miles on it. And all the bands were in good shape too.


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## auskip07 (Mar 13, 2015)

good news on the insides hope you find what is wrong soon

could the snap ring cause the issue?


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## Termite (Mar 13, 2015)

auskip07 said:


> good news on the insides hope you find what is wrong soon
> 
> could the snap ring cause the issue?


I am certain the snap ring was not the problem. It would have been in the future but not yet.
My wife's cousin did trans repair all his life but he has cancer and I am not going to bother him.


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## blades (Mar 14, 2015)

10 cent snap ring has been an issue on the Ford trannies, don't remember if it was that particular # tranny. There was a bunch of trouble caused by that failure back in the late 90's and early 2000's- particularly with the 6.8 and 7.3 mills, IIRC cooling was another area of concern when under heavy loads depending on the truck & tranny combo.


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## Termite (Mar 14, 2015)

This is what Dave said to check for no output is 3rd gear.

"Well let's start with the direct clutch. It is the small pack in the rear of unit. It fits inside the output shaft outer shell drive. It can blow a seal ring and cause a sudden loss of gear. Turn the output shaft upside down on the bench, remove the large snap ring to remove the outer drive ring gear. Check the plates inside the drum, small seal ring where the drum slides over the output shaft, the seal rings on the output shaft where it slides into the case. This clutch takes a beating because it is so small, not a lot of surface area to apply. I install an extra clutch to take some of the load."

"If all that is ok, it is a small possibility of a solenoid failure, it could be OK electrically, but plugged causing a no-shift. Did you have any codes? Did you do a PID monitor live data stream drive test to make certain the processor was commanding a 3rd shift? The processor can not verify if a shift did occur so it will not set a code."

"Check the valve body for any stuck valves or blown gaskets at the rear where the oil is sent to the distributor sleeve in the rear of the case. That is where the oil is delivered to the output shaft for direct clutch. "

I will check these things today. I didn't have it checked for codes because I was afraid to drive the vehicle and I live in a rural area.


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## Termite (Mar 17, 2015)

I found the problem, the internal splines were striped from the direct clutch hub. It is reported that the part was not heat treated properly. The intermediate shaft that feeds it is perfect. Where the splines were is perfectly smooth, I thought it had been machined. 
I plan to go to Louisville tomorrow to "WIT" What Ever It Takes, and get parts. I hate going to Louisville. They are building two new bridges and it is a mess. I just like to stay in the country.


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## auskip07 (Mar 17, 2015)

you might be told you need to order the part. better call first


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## D3B Dave (Mar 18, 2015)

Glad I could help.
Dave


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## Termite (Apr 19, 2015)

Final update. I put the transmission in last weekend and no reverse. Forward seemed fine but I did not drive it far. After checking line pressures, which were correct, I took the pan off. Glad I put a drain plug in the pan. 
I found metal and rubber in the pan. I then decided to remove it again. It took me 8 hours the first time and 4 hours the second. It only took me about 15 minutes to dissasemble the trans on the bench and find my mistake. I had assembled the reverse clutch incorrectly. The clutch plates on each end of the clutch pac were reverse. This should have been obvious to the most casual observer but not me at the time.
The result was the piston went too far out of it's bore, bent the bevel washer the wrong way. The heat this created took all the temper out of the wafer-ed snap ring and forced the retaining ring in the drum out of its groove.
I replaced all damaged parts including the reverse drum. Installed the transmission yesterday and all seems good now. I am glad I added an external, perma cool, oil filter. It amazes me everything hydraulic has a filter even a cheap log split-er but not a $xxxx dollar transmission.
I would like to thank D3B Dave for his help and encouragement on this project.


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