# 12" bar or 14" bar on climbing saw?



## Plasmech (Dec 13, 2008)

Hi all,

I have a Stihl 192 TC. Currently it has a 14" bar. I have a 12" on order. I found the 14" to be a tad awkward while in the tree, now granted I'm a noob. What do the pro's usually use, 12" or 14"? Thanks!


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## tomtrees58 (Dec 13, 2008)

:newbie: we climb with 16 no problem tom trees


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## Plasmech (Dec 13, 2008)

tomtrees58 said:


> :newbie: we climb with 16 no problem tom trees



16" on what saw?

Does any pro use a 12? Thanks.


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## (WLL) (Dec 13, 2008)

tomtrees58 said:


> :newbie: we climb with 16 no problem tom trees


x2 but i like a 12 when doing heavy prunning, i think the 14 light bar from stihl is a good all around bar for every day use. imo the 192 is a crap pro saw with power issues, and just dont hold up like its bigger brother the ms200.


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## Bermie (Dec 13, 2008)

200t with 14"...small enough to be nimble, big enough for most work...if I need a longer bar, it probably means I need a more powerful saw, so out comes the 260 or the 361.


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## reachtreeservi (Dec 13, 2008)

I run a 14 on my 200T's. 

I don't own a 192, but if I did I'd run a 12 on it.

Like already posted, if you need a bigger bar, it's time for a bigger saw.


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## Beast12 (Dec 13, 2008)

I use a 14" bar on my 200T. I also have a 14" on my 192T for light pruning. My brother has a 192T that has a 12" bar on it for pruning as well.

The 192T could use either. Just remember that it isn't a 200T. 

-Matt


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## John Paul Sanborn (Dec 13, 2008)

I've been running a 12 inch on my 020 for years. It gets caught on stuff less then a longer bar. I can cut 16 inch wood with ease, and if i need to go any bigger then I'm swapping for the medium saw anyways. It is silly to work a small saw on big wood anyways.

It is my all around steup, trim, removal whatever.


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## FallinT (Dec 13, 2008)

I've been running the 14" 192T bar and chain on my 200t lately. My stihl dealer told me about it and I've been really happy with the performance. At first I was a little skeptical of running that smaller combo but after I tried it, I was pleased.


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## Nailsbeats (Dec 13, 2008)

I've got a 192t with a 12" and a 200t with a 14". The 12" is da bomb for heavy prunning like John said. It hangs real nice and is easier to move in the tree with. I wouldn't want a bigger bar on my 192t since I cut a lot of hardwood and the 12" keeps the saw in the snuff band.


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## jomoco (Dec 13, 2008)

John Paul Sanborn said:


> I've been running a 12 inch on my 020 for years. It gets caught on stuff less then a longer bar. I can cut 16 inch wood with ease, and if i need to go any bigger then I'm swapping for the medium saw anyways. It is silly to work a small saw on big wood anyways.
> 
> It is my all around steup, trim, removal whatever.



I guess that makes me silly!

I run a 14 inch bar on all my ms200's, and when aloft I work down to 28 inch wood before going to my 365's.

As long as my saws are razor sharp, I use the lightest saw I can in the tree.

It totally cracks me up watching other climbers using 440's and such in little 24 inch dbh trees that my ms200's have been cutting like butter since they replaced the old magnesium 020T's, that also cut that size wood like butter.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=rn4jBwETBnI

Weak and silly old me!

jomoco


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## John Paul Sanborn (Dec 13, 2008)

jomoco said:


> I guess that makes me silly!
> 
> I run a 14 inch bar on all my ms200's, and when aloft I work down to 28 inch wood before going to my 365's.



my medium saw is a 346 (well, was) and you can get a 26 inch bar on it.


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## treeslayer (Dec 13, 2008)

sometimes its necessary to cut fast, and moving around a tree cutting blocks out that are 16" or better (I run a 14"" ms200) can be risky when you go to the back cut. I routinely cut 24" - 36" diameter blocks as much as 8' - 10' long out of big trees, and darn right I'm pulling up a 460, or 372. 

besides, I can handle it. too much crying about saw weight on here, horsepower is important, and I'm a bada$$ sawyer. on the ground, or in a tree. get strong, or back in the truck. 

:chainsawguy:


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## Brimmstone (Dec 13, 2008)

I've seen way to many trees that went the wrong way because people weren't using a large enough saw for the job and it couldn't spin the chain fast enough to cut the tree. I have yet to see anyone who can safely control a cut with a saw that will not reach all the way across what they are cutting otherwise no one would have a bar over 28 inches. I personally have bars all the way to 36 right now and when the extra money hits will have either an 088 or a 3120 with at least a 48 inch bar seeing as most of the normal pines down here are 30 inch or larger at the base. The water oaks tend to be even bigger.


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## squad143 (Dec 13, 2008)

I'm silly as well. I run a 16" bar on my MS200 and 020T. I rarely prune and a majority of my removals are dead stuff. With a sharp chain these saws will quickly cut 16" of soft/dead wood. On hardwoods it takes a little longer but I prefer the lighter weight of the smaller saws until the wood gets bigger than 16", then I move up to an 026 and an 046 on the really big stuff. It most likely boils down to personal preference and what you are using your saw for and type of wood you are cutting. For the most part I limb on the way up and chunk on the way down. I don't find the extra 2" or 4" gets in the way (also depends on how low your saw hangs). I'd rather be looking at 4" of extra bar than looking for it.


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## jomoco (Dec 13, 2008)

Brimmstone said:


> I've seen way to many trees that went the wrong way because people weren't using a large enough saw for the job and it couldn't spin the chain fast enough to cut the tree. I have yet to see anyone who can safely control a cut with a saw that will not reach all the way across what they are cutting otherwise no one would have a bar over 28 inches. I personally have bars all the way to 36 right now and when the extra money hits will have either an 088 or a 3120 with at least a 48 inch bar seeing as most of the normal pines down here are 30 inch or larger at the base. The water oaks tend to be even bigger.



My ms880 pretty much stays in my tool box with no bar on it until the wood gets pretty dang big, over 4 feet. 

My 394 sees a little more action, between 3-4 feet.

It's my 365's that get used the most up top when necessary.

And on those occassions when I want to buck up some serious wood on the ground, my ms440 with a 24 inch bar gets fired up.

If you need a bar that matches the wood's diameter, you must be a rookie that can't cut straight.

The majority of arborists I know, even those that have been at it for over 10 years, can't sharpen chains, or dress their bars properly, just enough to get crookedly by with. I see their chains and laugh as they get loose then tight as I turn their chain by hand. When I suggest new drive washers to cure that problem, it seems to go in one ear and out the other.

I have a 262xp with 325 pitch chain that I like to use in large wood in the tree, particularly if there's alot of it up there, not quite the power of a 365, but considerably lighter for a wimpy old foggy like me to handle.

jomoco


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## Rftreeman (Dec 13, 2008)

I have one with a 12" and another with 16" the 12 is used for trimming only and the 16 will get pulled out on removals most of the time, the 12 is on a echo cs-300 and the 16 on a stihl ms-200t.




jomoco said:


> If you need a bar that matches the wood's diameter, you must be a rookie that can't cut straight.
> 
> The majority of arborists I know, even those that have been at it for over 10 years, can't sharpen chains, or dress their bars properly, just enough to get crookedly by with.


same here.........if you know how to use the saw you can cut 40" dia with a 20" bar easily.


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## (WLL) (Dec 13, 2008)

Rftreeman said:


> I have one with a 12" and another with 16" the 12 is used for trimming only and the 16 will get pulled out on removals most of the time, the 12 is on a echo cs-300 and the 16 on a stihl ms-200t.
> 
> 
> 
> same here.........if you know how to use the saw you can cut 40" dia with a 20" bar easily.


but why , that 2 me is just plain stupid unless u have 2. if u ever need 2 replace the dl. washers its time fer a new chain. its hard to teach the old doggs new tricks.


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## Rftreeman (Dec 13, 2008)

(WLL) said:


> but why , that 2 me is just plain stupid unless u have 2. if u ever need 2 replace the dl. washers its time fer a new chain. its hard to teach the old doggs new tricks.


I have the bars one different saws and they stay that way......


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## (WLL) (Dec 13, 2008)

imo the 14 is ideal on the ms200


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## skid row (Dec 13, 2008)

I got a 16" bar on one of my 200T's. And a 14" bar on the other one.

Best of both worlds.


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## treeslayer (Dec 13, 2008)

Rftreeman said:


> same here.........if you know how to use the saw you can cut 40" dia with a 20" bar easily.




SIGH................not the point, maybe you have all day to gnaw on big wood with a little saw, but why ????

I'm in it to MAKE money.
time is money.
get done, go make more money.

some people get so caught up in making THEIR point, they lose sight of the issue. 
which is;
THE IDEAL BAR LENGTH. it's based on several factors, but since this is the commercial climbing forum, its about business. i.e. money. and especially safety.

:deadhorse:


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## (WLL) (Dec 13, 2008)

i find myself one handing the 12in like a crazed loonatic, i rarely even turn the saw off during heavy prunes. the longer bar will force u to use 2 hands so your wrists dont kill u after an hours work. get the 14 keep both hands on her make cuts with care and get better and better. imo the 16 is a lil much and the 12 is just shy.


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## Rftreeman (Dec 13, 2008)

treeslayer said:


> SIGH................not the point, maybe you have all day to gnaw on big wood with a little saw, but why ????
> 
> I'm in it to MAKE money.
> time is money.
> ...





treeslayer said:


> I cut 4' - 5" stumps all the time with saws as small as a 372xp / 28".



lol
where am I "so caught up in making THEIR point" I was just agreeing with a post, I have a large saw with 36 bar and can get bigger if I need it but so many people think you MUST have a bar that matches the wood diameter and if you don't then you can't do the work, well, that is just plain B/S plain & simple..............


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## jomoco (Dec 13, 2008)

I am of the opinion that while the ms200T is the best climb saw currently sold, it is not the most powerful climb saw. The old magnesium cased 020T actually has more raw power, despite being a bit temperamental and not being as well balanced.

I still have a magnesium cased 020T in excellent condition that I can prove my opinion with.

jomoco


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## Adkpk (Dec 13, 2008)

200t- 12"
191t- 16"

That is what I have and that is the way to go.


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## capetrees (Dec 13, 2008)

I actually use a 170 in the trees with a 12" bar. I have a 12" bar because I have a pole saw with a 12" bar and therefore I don't need all sizes of chain. Today was kinda hairy. I was up the tree with a 440 bombing a tree in VERY tight quarters. Cut the chunks in 16" logs and then sent them down with the 440 hanging off the belt. Don't like doing that too much. 

For climbing, I like the 24" bar on the 440! :greenchainsaw:


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## (WLL) (Dec 13, 2008)

be carful who u get your info from on this site as many beg fer the rep they have. lmao


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## Brimmstone (Dec 13, 2008)

jomoco said:


> My ms880 pretty much stays in my tool box with no bar on it until the wood gets pretty dang big, over 4 feet.
> 
> My 394 sees a little more action, between 3-4 feet.
> 
> ...



As to being a rookie who can't cut straight I have been doing this for over 18 years now since my neighbor took me out working when I was 12. I have been cutting trees ever since then. I climbed for over eight years till a couple of freak accidents turned into a 20 foot plus fall. My rope was tired and failed when the limb I was on broke and I fell from about 25 feet in the air. I had about 5 foot of slack so I could move around out on the limb so it stopped me at first then broke and I continued to the ground. I have taken numerous large trees out with nothing but my old 262 with a 20 inch bar. I have learned over the years it's not worth my time to make two cuts just to say I can cut a big tree with a saw half as big. I want to control how my hinge lets the wood fall instead of trying to cut it from two sides and hope it's going to go the way I want it. It's also I want to get the job done as fast and professionally as I can. Not have the customer come out and look at me like I'm an idiot for using an undersized saw.


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## Brimmstone (Dec 13, 2008)

(WLL) said:


> be carful who u get your info from on this site as many beg fer the rep they have. lmao




I'm not sure who you are talking about but to me the Rep parts have always been a joke to me as too many buddies slapping each others backs can sit there and rep each other to the moon then slam the people who actually do know what they are talking about and then disagree with what they think.


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## treeslayer (Dec 13, 2008)

Rftreeman said:


> lol
> where am I "so caught up in making THEIR point" I was just agreeing with a post, I have a large saw with 36 bar and can get bigger if I need it but so many people think you MUST have a bar that matches the wood diameter and if you don't then you can do the work, well, that is just plain B/S plain & simple..............



so you quote me from 2 different threads trying to make YOUR point.
Well lets tell this newbie what SHOULD be done, not just what YOU can do. 

the stump quote was meant to show that a mid sized saw can do a big stump. different thread and context entirely, but hey if it makes YOUR point, drag it all the site, I don't care. 
anybody can type. 
I post pics.


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## sawinredneck (Dec 13, 2008)

A 200t without a 16" is just an injustice!! The saw blances fine, has plenty of powerand it gives you more reach.
!6" ALWAYS on my 200t.
The 192t, I run a 14", just for the reach again, but a 12" wouldn't be a terible thing.


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## (WLL) (Dec 13, 2008)

treeslayer said:


> so you quote me from 2 different threads trying to make YOUR point.
> Well lets tell this newbie what SHOULD be done, not just what YOU can do.
> 
> the stump quote was meant to show that a mid sized saw can do a big stump. different thread and context entirely, but hey if it makes YOUR point, drag it all the site, I don't care.
> ...


that pic is very familiar. is that the treeslayer? be honest now.


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## (WLL) (Dec 13, 2008)

sawinredneck said:


> A 200t without a 16" is just an injustice!! The saw blances fine, has plenty of powerand it gives you more reach.
> !6" ALWAYS on my 200t.
> The 192t, I run a 14", just for the reach again, but a 12" wouldn't be a terible thing.


stop cutting over your head and go to the work, u will look and feel more like a pro.:greenchainsaw:


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## Brimmstone (Dec 13, 2008)

(WLL) said:


> that pic is very familiar. is that the treeslayer? be honest now.




Yep that is the one and only Treeslayer. I would hate to think there are two people in the world that ugly


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## treeslayer (Dec 13, 2008)

(WLL) said:


> that pic is very familiar. is that the treeslayer? be honest now.



which pic, me on the sycamore stump in the red hard hat??


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## ozzy42 (Dec 13, 2008)

Ilike to put the smallest bar on a saw usually.[ms200tw/12 or 14"bar,i have both]
For me it has nothing with bulkyness,as it has to do with speed.Longer bars tend to slow down the saws of the same size and power.
Personally i like the saw razor sharp, mean lean &screamin.
Can't get carried away though,have to know when to stop with lil saw and get something with more reach ,and more power,[290 ,310, or 361 in my case].
Big saws hanging off the hip are a #####though.


You'all Think we have the poster confused yet?
We're all trying to help you man. just have different opinions.
I've worked with some for years,and we still can't agree all the time.

Find what works best for you .It will come in time.


BE SAFE


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## MNClimber (Dec 13, 2008)

I run a 200t with a 16in light for removals and a 200t with a 12in for pruning. Only way to do it!


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## sawinredneck (Dec 13, 2008)

(WLL) said:


> stop cutting over your head and go to the work, u will look and feel more like a pro.:greenchainsaw:



Come work on some of these beaten Elms!! It's nothing to do with overhead, it's trying to trim without spikes!


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## sawinredneck (Dec 13, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> That sounds like a good combo. I'm running 16" on both of my 200t and I bet the 12 works much better for pruning.



Not starting a war here, just trying to learn.

Why do you think that Dan? Can you not control the saw well enough that you feel comforable using the 16?
Is the bar flex a contributing problem?

Honestly, for pruning, I much preffer the 192t, it's nimbleness and weight make it a pleasure to use. I also find it a lot more controlable. I really need to get that thing running again!!!!


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## jomoco (Dec 13, 2008)

I have a rather unusual cutting technique when I'm cutting big wood with my ms200's. I use the top of my bar for the cut, my left hand on the main handle controlling the throttle with my little finger, with my right hand on the rope snap attached to the saw's wire ring on the back, cutting from right to left.

Using this unusual method causes less clogging and binding because it throws the sawdust away from the saw, it gives me superior leverage off the dawgs, and I've found that my cuts always meet when I circle around big vertical wood much bigger than my 14 inch bar length.

Sometimes I wonder if I'm the only climber that uses this unusual cutting method when chunking down big vertical wood.

Do any of you use this method, or understand what I'm talking about?

I guess I could post a vid of it if you guys think I'm crazy, don't make me do it!

jomoco


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## sawinredneck (Dec 13, 2008)

I have done that as well, depending on the winds. 
But dropping a limb creates a new set of problems using that technuiqe.


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## Blakesmaster (Dec 13, 2008)

TreeCo said:


> That sounds like a good combo. I'm running 16" on both of my 200t and I bet the 12 works much better for pruning.



I prefer my 361 with a 20 incher for pruning, but that's just me.


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## juststumps (Dec 14, 2008)

Plasmech said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a Stihl 192 TC. Currently it has a 14" bar. I have a 12" on order. I found the 14" to be a tad awkward while in the tree, now granted I'm a noob. What do the pro's usually use, 12" or 14"? Thanks!



back to your question..

i run a 200t with a 14" bar.. use that about 90% of the time.. but i fly a bucket.. so the weight thing isn't an issue..

i don't really like the 192t with a 14" bar, the few times i've used one.. it might proform better with the 12" bar.. but i never tried it , and a 12" bar really doesn't suit my work... and i really don't like the 192t, compared to the200t.. but thats me..( WHATS UP WITH THE OTHER CHOKE LEVER ?) JMHO

but thats all it is, an opinion !!! what works for me might not work for you...


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## Rftreeman (Dec 14, 2008)

treeslayer said:


> so you quote me from 2 different threads trying to make YOUR point.
> Well lets tell this newbie what SHOULD be done, not just what YOU can do.
> 
> the stump quote was meant to show that a mid sized saw can do a big stump. different thread and context entirely, but hey if it makes YOUR point, drag it all the site, I don't care.
> ...


I don't know what your problem is but you need to drop it with me, I posted the two quotes because one contradicted the other after you slammed me for making a simple statement so get off my back, you say in this thread that you have to have a big saw and bar to cut the big wood and then in another thread you say you cut big 4' to 5' stumps with a 28 inch saw so looks to me that you can't make up your mind what POINT YOU are trying to make...............



treeslayer said:


> anybody can type.
> I post pics.


trying to prove your point or do you want a cookie or should I rep you?


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## Rftreeman (Dec 14, 2008)

(WLL) said:


> be carful who u get your info from on this site as many beg fer the rep they have. lmao


no begging here.......I earned all that........lol


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## Plasmech (Dec 14, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> I've got a 192t with a 12" and a 200t with a 14". The 12" is da bomb for heavy prunning like John said. It hangs real nice and is easier to move in the tree with. I wouldn't want a bigger bar on my 192t since I cut a lot of hardwood and the 12" keeps the saw in the snuff band.



Snuff band eh? What's that?


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## 1I'dJak (Dec 14, 2008)

16" bar on the 200...can't stand the sound of those 192's...to me they're a camping saw....


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## Nailsbeats (Dec 14, 2008)

Plasmech said:


> Snuff band eh? What's that?



It's a technical term meaning when the saw has the optimum amount of snoose.


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## treeslayer (Dec 14, 2008)

Rftreeman said:


> I don't know what your problem is but you need to drop it with me, I posted the two quotes because one contradicted the other after you slammed me for making a simple statement so get off my back, you say in this thread that you have to have a big saw and bar to cut the big wood and then in another thread you say you cut big 4' to 5' stumps with a 28 inch saw so looks to me that you can't make up your mind what POINT YOU are trying to make...............
> 
> trying to prove your point or do you want a cookie or should I rep you?



I'm just advising a beginner that it is safer and faster to size the saw to the wood rather than fight it and maybe have an accident. 

the stump quote was to show that if my biggest saw working on that job is a mid sized saw, I can cut the stump regardless. not every company has monster saws. I use what they have, and Git her done.
I'm a contract climber. 

sorry you take it so personal, I'm not here to slam you. you paid your dues.


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## Plasmech (Dec 14, 2008)

Nailsbeats said:


> It's a technical term meaning when the saw has the optimum amount of snoose.



Oh, well now it makes perfect sense.:monkey:


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## squad143 (Dec 14, 2008)

Plasmech said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a Stihl 192 TC. Currently it has a 14" bar. I have a 12" on order. I found the 14" to be a tad awkward while in the tree, now granted I'm a noob. What do the pro's usually use, 12" or 14"? Thanks!



Hey Plasmech, I guess the answer to your question would be 
"d:-all of the above."
The Pros use 12" & 14", some even use 16". If your'e finding the 14" awkward, maybe you'll like the 12" that you have on order.
Remember, opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one.


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## John Paul Sanborn (Dec 14, 2008)

Brimmstone said:


> Rep parts have always been a joke to me as too many buddies slapping each others backs can sit there and rep each other to the moon



Mutual admiration club. Though I do like looking at the comments on the rep given to me from time to time. I like to know that some people actually get something from my blatherings.

As for the thing about not being able to control a fell with an undersized bar, I can bore cut nearly 30 inches with my 12 inch bar. I just do not like to.

Only if I have to make one oversized cut now and then I will forgo the bigger saw.

I can see not wanting a bigger saw if moving around a 150 ft euc all day, we just do not have those scales around here. Big trees spread wide, not wide and high. Except for a few cottonwoods.

On occasion, with the very wide spreading trees, Ive lashed my medium saw into the inner canopy and swapped it out myself for the big limb cuts when rigging with the GRCS.


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## rbtree (Dec 14, 2008)

jomoco said:


> I am of the opinion that while the ms200T is the best climb saw currently sold, it is not the most powerful climb saw. The old magnesium cased 020T actually has more raw power, despite being a bit temperamental and not being as well balanced.
> 
> I still have a magnesium cased 020T in excellent condition that I can prove my opinion with.
> 
> jomoco



correction, that saw was called the 020Super......the 020T was the same as the MS200T, just minor changes like carbs etc.


and neither will cut as fast as my muffler modded jonsered 2139/33* Husky.....which is also lighter

not even close.....

$250 less and better saws.....

Using a climb saw to cut big wood is not wise..especially if the saw costs $600. Too slow as well. 

Run modded saws and don't look back.....which allows me to run 3 cube saws aloft in 20-24 inch wood and have great power.z

Sure, an accomplished cutter can make proper faces, hinges, and backcuts with a bar that is shorter than the cut....as I was doing last night in the dark finishing a storm tree, (on steep ground, after bringing it down, trying to miss the dirt, good part was the bar tip was easy to keep clear of it, but as the cuts weren't going all the way through, it made it harder to get the work done. took two three of us to roll the logs over.....)but why, if you have a long bar, use it, it's so much easier to keep from cutting hinge wood out.


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## jomoco (Dec 14, 2008)

rbtree said:


> correction, that saw was called the 020Super......the 020T was the same as the MS200T, just minor changes like carbs etc.
> 
> 
> and neither will cut as fast as my muffler modded jonsered 2139/33* Husky.....which is also lighter
> ...



Got a question for yu RB. Do you ever grip your climb saw in this unusual manner when chunking down moderate sized vertical spars?

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=QadqcPOtiZM

jomoco


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## HolmenTree (Dec 14, 2008)

We're talking in circles here about 14" or 12". But lets talk chain. I sometimes run the little .043 PMN chain with a 14" on my MS200, now here is a quick cutting combination.


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## jomoco (Dec 14, 2008)

jomoco said:


> I have a rather unusual cutting technique when I'm cutting big wood with my ms200's. I use the top of my bar for the cut, my left hand on the main handle controlling the throttle with my little finger, with my right hand on the rope snap attached to the saw's wire ring on the back, cutting from right to left.
> 
> Using this unusual method causes less clogging and binding because it throws the sawdust away from the saw, it gives me superior leverage off the dawgs, and I've found that my cuts always meet when I circle around big vertical wood much bigger than my 14 inch bar length.
> 
> ...




http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=QadqcPOtiZM

I get it, I really am crazy!

jomoco


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## (WLL) (Dec 14, 2008)

jomoco said:


> http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=QadqcPOtiZM
> 
> I get it, I really am crazy!
> 
> jomoco


u are not alone with the cut technique i just get a bigger saw fer bigger wood if i got more than a couple cuts.


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## Climbing Cutter (Dec 14, 2008)

I run 16" bars on my 200t and 192. my echo cs330pos wears a 14".


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## (WLL) (Dec 14, 2008)

Climbing Cutter said:


> I run 16" bars on my 200t and 192. my echo cs330pos wears a 14".


the name says it all lol:greenchainsaw:
i cant imagine the 192 gettin much work done with a 16in bar on her it must be a bigbore with no muffler !


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## jomoco (Dec 14, 2008)

rbtree said:


> correction, that saw was called the 020Super......the 020T was the same as the MS200T, just minor changes like carbs etc.
> 
> 
> and neither will cut as fast as my muffler modded jonsered 2139/33* Husky.....which is also lighter
> ...



I paid almost 700 bucks for this saw back in the early 90's, and it loves big hard euc wood, unmodified.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=WGo7r6dZ1uE

jomoco


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