# McCulloch Titan 50 57 lines



## mweba (Mar 2, 2011)

Spent the last couple hours figuring out the fuel, impulse, and oil lines on this saw. Ended up tearing a second down as a cheat sheet. Line needed is 1/4 OD 1/8 ID (fuel) and 6" of 3/16 OD 1/8 ID (oil line). I will add, there is limited area for several lines so the lengths have to be at a minimum.

Couple pics for future adventurers to cheat off.


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## Modifiedmark (Mar 2, 2011)

I have heard guys cuss these saws before, now I can see why. What a figgin mess. 

The might be a OK saw, I don't know, never messed with one myself. 

After seein this,I'm not as sorry I turned one down last fall though. :msp_rolleyes:


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## mweba (Mar 2, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> I have heard guys cuss these saws before, now I can see why. What a figgin mess.
> 
> The might be a OK saw, I don't know, never messed with one myself.
> 
> After seein this,I'm not as sorry I turned one down last fall though. :msp_rolleyes:


 
I have three more here and I think this job is a deal breaker for the others to run. It is almost rediculous. Want me to send ya one LOL

They are strong runners though.


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## briantutt (Oct 10, 2011)

Modifiedmark said:


> I have heard guys cuss these saws before, now I can see why. What a figgin mess.
> 
> The might be a OK saw, I don't know, never messed with one myself.
> 
> After seein this,I'm not as sorry I turned one down last fall though. :msp_rolleyes:


 
I have one in my garage, now I see why it is in a million pieces


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## leecopland (Nov 2, 2011)

*titan 57 decompression*

Hi folks,

My first posting, I picked up a Titan 57 and although it looks reasonable I can barely pull it over. I also have an old 380 which is an 87cc beast and have little trouble pulling it over. Is there a decompression valve I haven't found? I have no manual. Any thoughts welcome

Lee
Huntsville, Ontario


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## leecopland (Dec 1, 2011)

*part way there*

I have my 57 partially stripped, carb off, but having a little trouble getting the handle/tanks separated from the motor. There are two odd looking screws at the front but they don't want to let go. Do you have to remove the manual oil pump? The fuel filter is an odd looking piece, long strip of what looks like felt. That came out along with the fuel line (broken) That explains no fire. There was however fuel in the carb? By the way it is now easier to pull over. It has a 20" b&c. The bar has a black coating, both seem reasonable, maybe these saws don't run long enough to wear things out! Kind of like an Italian Alfa.

Well I'll rebuild the walbro HDA while it's out, while I wait for help

Thanks,

Lee


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## briantutt (Dec 1, 2011)

The one i have litteraly is in a million pieces take a pic of the screws and i will look at mine tonight and see if i can help

Brian


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## Chris-PA (Dec 1, 2011)

I'm completely unfamiliar with the Titan saws - were they a separate brand for McCulloch, or just a different model range? What time frame were they produced?


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## briantutt (Dec 1, 2011)

Not sure, I got my basket case from a guy at work, he grabbed four saws for $20 at a garage sale. all of them apart in pieces. I plan to get to mine this winter. The Titan's appear to be maybe the end of the actual McCullochs?


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## leecopland (Dec 1, 2011)

*frozen screws*



briantutt said:


> The one i have litteraly is in a million pieces take a pic of the screws and i will look at mine tonight and see if i can help
> 
> Brian



The screw in question is bottom left of the wider angle pic. I believe they secure the handle/tank to the motor. A screw-lox driver fits it but they won't budge. I don't want to break anything. I was thinking of trying the screw-lox bit on an impact drill/driver.

Thanks for your help

PS just tried impact driver of course it worked. OMG what a bundle of snakes. Anybody want a parts saw?


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## briantutt (Dec 1, 2011)

leecopland said:


> The screw in question is bottom left of the wider angle pic. I believe they secure the handle/tank to the motor. A screw-lox driver fits it but they won't budge. I don't want to break anything. I was thinking of trying the screw-lox bit on an impact drill/driver.
> 
> Thanks for your help
> 
> PS just tried impact driver of course it worked. OMG what a bundle of snakes. Anybody want a parts saw?



I will check mine out tonight. DO you have the IPL? I do, PM me your email.


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## leecopland (Dec 1, 2011)

*lines*



mweba said:


> Spent the last couple hours figuring out the fuel, impulse, and oil lines on this saw. Ended up tearing a second down as a cheat sheet. Line needed is 1/4 OD 1/8 ID (fuel) and 6" of 3/16 OD 1/8 ID (oil line). I will add, there is limited area for several lines so the lengths have to be at a minimum.
> 
> Couple pics for future adventurers to cheat off.



Hi there MWEBA, These photos are a great help. Any chance of id-ing the lines? I suppose one could leave out either the auto or manual oil lines to simplify things, as long it remained my saw. I would say you would need a couple of feet of line, in various lengths. The oil side seems to use two sizes of line. Getting this back together and working will provide a huge sense of achievement!

Thanks,
Lee


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## briantutt (Dec 2, 2011)

Lee,

I failed, got distracted by the granddaughter. I will get on it tonight.

Brian


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## briantutt (Dec 3, 2011)

leecopland said:


> The screw in question is bottom left of the wider angle pic. I believe they secure the handle/tank to the motor. A screw-lox driver fits it but they won't budge. I don't want to break anything. I was thinking of trying the screw-lox bit on an impact drill/driver.
> 
> Thanks for your help
> 
> PS just tried impact driver of course it worked. OMG what a bundle of snakes. Anybody want a parts saw?



I didn't even notice the PS part of this message. Just took pics and was going to tell you "yep, that screw is the rear handle anti-vibe peg." I don't even know if I have all of the parts for the saw I have but I think I will tackle this one next, looks pretty much brand new but fully taken apart.


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## brokenbudget (Dec 3, 2011)

:hmm3grin2orangemg! the fuel lines on these saws are so easy a cave man can do it
i guess it's like anything else, if you do it a few times you get the hang of it. there was a year i did nothing but those fuel lines day in day out.
i see people struggling to get the lines in place, while trying to keep the 2 parts close together. this is the wrong and hard way. you need to seperate and do the lines on the handle first, then place the engine almost in place and trim the lines to fit. there is actualy quite a bit of room for the lines between the engine and handle. it isn't quite as tight as some may say. there are worse saws out there.


mweba: you need to have the 'clamp' on the pressure side of the manual oiler. otherwise the first time you push the button, you'll push the line off the pump body. it needs to be there. also, if any other 'clamps' are missing, you need them too.:msp_smile:








i can work on these with my eyes closed.


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## briantutt (Dec 3, 2011)

brokenbudget said:


> :hmm3grin2orangemg! the fuel lines on these saws are so easy a cave man can do it
> i guess it's like anything else, if you do it a few times you get the hang of it. there was a year i did nothing but those fuel lines day in day out.
> i see people struggling to get the lines in place, while trying to keep the 2 parts close together. this is the wrong and hard way. you need to seperate and do the lines on the handle first, then place the engine almost in place and trim the lines to fit. there is actualy quite a bit of room for the lines between the engine and handle. it isn't quite as tight as some may say. there are worse saws out there.
> 
> ...



Now I am more inspired to get mine together. Do you like the saw?


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## brokenbudget (Dec 3, 2011)

briantutt said:


> Do you like the saw?



yes, however i'm a biased there a good saw.:msp_smile:


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## leecopland (Dec 3, 2011)

*fuel lines*

Hi Brokenbudget, Thanks for the info and encouragement. Being a neophyte, where can I get those fuel/oil line clamps and is there a special tool to put them on? I picked up 2 feet of 1/4" tygone. @ a $ a foot I should have bought more I think. I purchased the thin black oil line off fleebay although the one on the saw looks OK. Looking down on the the handle there is a very short piece of line running cross ways on the right side, is that a breather? It doesn't seem to go anywhere.

A general question about fiddling with saws - what is the best way to clean all the oily sawdust off these beasts? I end up trailing it all over the house which doesn't make me popular with the missus. Maybe I need shop shoes.

Love this site and all the help that is out there.

Regards,

Lee


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## brokenbudget (Dec 3, 2011)

yes that little short length the seems to go off to the right is or should be the tank vent.
if you don;t have the little crushable clamps or they fell apart, you can use small tie wire to hold the line in place. just be sure the wire is even and fully seated with no little hump where the wire is twisted together. i doesn't need to be animal tight, just tight enough you can see the wire depressing into the line. what ever you do make sure the wire isn't squeezing the line into a point at the twist, or else you'll have a leaker there.
change out ALL of the lines regardless of what they look like. you don't want to do this twice.
the line inside the fuel tank rarley goes bad. it's made of a different material that seems to last very good.

when i clean the saw, i have a bucket of hot water, a tooth brush and a sponge. i'll pull the parts off the saw and throw them into the bucket and let soak. i pull all the guts out of the pull start before i do this and the engine is blown and wiped down until clean.
do not put the coil in the water. same for the pull cord and spring.


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## briantutt (Dec 3, 2011)

I use Simple Green mixed 50/50 and a tooth brush. Works awesome. I block off the intake port and the exhaust like the picture below and go to town. My wife gave me an ultrasonic cleaner last year that works awesome for anything that will fit in it, I use simple green 50/50 in that too. Blow everything off with air compressor once rinsed. For carbs I ultarsonic then blast the carb cleaner through them.


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## leecopland (Dec 5, 2011)

You guys are awesome!! Brokenbudget, when you say tie wire what exactly is that and where could I get some. Also, does that mean that the crush-able clamps are not available? The switch module on mine has been messed with. The on switch was replaced and glued in place. I'm hoping the module will still come out by removing the roll pin. It would useful to I can separate handle and engine. Thanks again,

Lee

PS switch came out without touching the roll pin. The pictures above mainly show the oil lines. The the fuel lines come out the side of the tank but the tygone line doesn't fill the holes tightly. Do you need some type of grommet?


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## briantutt (Dec 11, 2011)

*Clutch*

The oil lines on mine are hard as a rock and the one with the spring is cracked right in half. Do you need a special tool to remove the clutch? Goofy nut head on this one...


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## StihlyinEly (Dec 11, 2011)

Well, I just picked up a 57 for $20, and it appears the only problem is the fuel lines are disintegrated. Now it looks like I better make up my mind to pull this sucker WAY apart and replace all the oil and fuel lines. 

Ah well, at least this thread is a nice help!


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## brokenbudget (Dec 12, 2011)

briantutt said:


> The oil lines on mine are hard as a rock and the one with the spring is cracked right in half. Do you need a special tool to remove the clutch? Goofy nut head on this one...



as said before, you don't need to pull the clutch.


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## Wagnerwerks (Dec 12, 2011)

*Clutch tool.*

If this clutch nut is the same as the 4600, a 5/8 12pt fits. I know it's odd, but it works great. (Not saying you need to pull it for the lines:smile2


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## briantutt (Dec 12, 2011)

Wagnerwerks said:


> If this clutch nut is the same as the 4600, a 5/8 12pt fits. I know it's odd, but it works great. (Not saying you need to pull it for the lines:smile2



Yep Socket took it right off. On a side note. If you pull the oil pump off you will be staring right at the main bearing. I am going to pop the cylinder off and clean this one out but if you aren't ready for it you will get crap in the bearing for sure.


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## brokenbudget (Dec 12, 2011)

briantutt said:


> Yep Socket took it right off. On a side note. If you pull the oil pump off you will be staring right at the main bearing. I am going to pop the cylinder off and clean this one out but if you aren't ready for it you will get crap in the bearing for sure.



this is one of the reasons i tell people you do not need to take the oil pump off. good way to ruin a seal. more than enough room to get even the bigger set of hand in there with the clutch still on:smile2:


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## briantutt (Dec 12, 2011)

brokenbudget said:


> this is one of the reasons i tell people you do not need to take the oil pump off. good way to ruin a seal. more than enough room to get even the bigger set of hand in there with the clutch still on:smile2:



Good point, when I get the seal and pump cleaned up I will look at the seal under a microscope for damage.

Is there a way to get that spring inside a new oil line? 

Is the smaller black line coming from the manual oiler supposed to be rock hard?


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## brokenbudget (Dec 12, 2011)

briantutt said:


> Good point, when I get the seal and pump cleaned up I will look at the seal under a microscope for damage.
> 
> Is there a way to get that spring inside a new oil line?
> 
> Is the smaller black line coming from the manual oiler supposed to be rock hard?



use a good quality line and you don't need any spring in it. mcculloch would send us line with the anti-kink coil in it already. never have had any issues with using the yellow 'tygone' fuel line. 
that black rubber line should be pretty supple. change it out aswell.:smile2:
the crank seal is easy to get from any bearing and seal shop.
and make VERY sure that oil pump is sealed well. it's a good spot for an airleak.


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## briantutt (Dec 12, 2011)

Boy this saw sure is a goofy thing. It's worse than the Johnny 590. At least it's made of metal...

Thanks for the pointers on the oil lines and seal.


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## leecopland (Dec 16, 2011)

briantutt said:


> Good point, when I get the seal and pump cleaned up I will look at the seal under a microscope for damage.
> 
> Is there a way to get that spring inside a new oil line?
> 
> Is the smaller black line coming from the manual oiler supposed to be rock hard?



This black oil line is a hard plastic no need to replace if it's OK. But you do need to clamp the tygon line, from the manual oil pump, to it or the pressure will push them apart. Reuse existing clamps or tie wire.

Regards,

Lee


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## brokenbudget (Dec 16, 2011)

leecopland said:


> This black oil line is a hard plastic no need to replace if it's OK. But you do need to clamp the tygon line, from the manual oil pump, to it or the pressure will push them apart. Reuse existing clamps or tie wire.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Lee



yup! wasn't thinking while typing.:msp_rolleyes:


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## leecopland (Dec 16, 2011)

brokenbudget said:


> yup! wasn't thinking while typing.:msp_rolleyes:



Don't I just sound like I know what I'm talking about!!!:msp_rolleyes:

Regards,

Lee


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## leecopland (Dec 16, 2011)

*parts needed*

Brokenbudget

Steve here is a photo of the rubber fitting a the screw that I need as well as the switch unit. If I could get the switch unit with the wires attached that would be great as someone has butchered mine. Please let me know what I owe you and we can work out the best way to get it to you. Paypal or cheque in the post?


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## brokenbudget (Dec 16, 2011)

leecopland said:


> Brokenbudget
> 
> Steve here is a photo of the rubber fitting a the screw that I need as well as the switch unit. If I could get the switch unit with the wires attached that would be great as someone has butchered mine. Please let me know what I owe you and we can work out the best way to get it to you. Paypal or cheque in the post?



ahh. that rubber.....:hmm3grin2orange: now i know what you mean!:smile2:


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## old 040 (Dec 20, 2011)

mweba said:


> Spent the last couple hours figuring out the fuel, impulse, and oil lines on this saw. Ended up tearing a second down as a cheat sheet. Line needed is 1/4 OD 1/8 ID (fuel) and 6" of 3/16 OD 1/8 ID (oil line). I will add, there is limited area for several lines so the lengths have to be at a minimum.
> 
> Couple pics for future adventurers to cheat off.



just relined my titan 50 yesterday, took almost two hours, i wasn't going to fix the saw, but it allways ran great, it was the oiler that quit, due to the old lines breaking, i had replaced the fuel lines about three years ago, these saws wouldn't be worth repairing if they wern't youre own, but i'm glad its back in action, did a slight mm while i was in there, it really runs well now


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## leecopland (Dec 20, 2011)

brokenbudget said:


> ahh. that rubber.....:hmm3grin2orange: now i know what you mean!:smile2:



Hi Steve,

With the fuel tank breather, I'm guessing that just a short piece of Tygon going straight up would be OK. I think I also may need a washer/spacer on the clutch shaft as the hub moves back and forth more than what looks normal.:msp_unsure:

Cheers,

Lee


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## leecopland (Dec 20, 2011)

old 040 said:


> just relined my titan 50 yesterday, took almost two hours, i wasn't going to fix the saw, but it allways ran great, it was the oiler that quit, due to the old lines breaking, i had replaced the fuel lines about three years ago, these saws wouldn't be worth repairing if they wern't youre own, but i'm glad its back in action, did a slight mm while i was in there, it really runs well now



What bar and chain do you run on your Titan 50?

Regards,

Lee


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## old 040 (Dec 21, 2011)

leecopland said:


> What bar and chain do you run on your Titan 50?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Lee



hi lee, i've had this saw for allmost 15 years now, it had a 20" b/c with 3/8 pitch, i'm also changing the drive sprocket today, all i could find listed was .325 drive sprockets listed, and only 3/8 pitch bars?, but the sprocket is the rim style, so i'm going to use a 3/8 rim, also going to run a 16" bar and chain, it allways was able to handle the 20" with no problem, just want to ease the load some to make this saw more fun to run


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## briantutt (Dec 24, 2011)

Ultrasonic cleaner made the titan cylinder look Nos.

Brian


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## chainsawwhisperer (Dec 24, 2011)

I have to agree that the lines on the 50/57 are a pain, but once you do a couple you figure out that ...they are still a pain. lol
The crank case oil seal/ oil pump ass. is strange.
Any of you guys have a chain brake/cover for a Double Eagle 50? or Titan 50/57 ?
Thanks Jim


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## chainsawwhisperer (Dec 24, 2011)

Here what one of mine looked like a few months ago, I had to make a case gasket for it.


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## briantutt (Dec 24, 2011)

chainsawwhisperer said:


> Here what one of mine looked like a few months ago, I had to make a case gasket for it.



With the exception of the case split that is how I received mine. I wasn't going to split the case I figured I could clean the outside with simple green and water with a rag around the piston and rod and then remove the rag and rinse the inside out and flush the clutch side bearing with premix to clean out the crank area?


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## heimannm (Dec 29, 2011)

Here are a few photo's showing the Titan 57 in a bit more detail. First up are the typical condition you will find when you take one apart. Pretty good chance there will be several bit that just fall out, maybe an elbow and a breather/vent since the lines have turned to crumbs.












Here is the tank off before clean up, the lower two holes are in the fuel tank for the pick up and vent. The upper hole is where the Tee fitting plugs in for the oil pick up.






And this one is for the oil tank vent.






Here is what is left of the oil pick up line. The Tee simply plugs in to the line and makes a friction fit in the hole.






Mark


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## heimannm (Dec 29, 2011)

To simplify installing the fuel line, I ran it all the way through the tank and installed a more conventional fuel filter, then pulled the line back into the tank.






There are two vents, one for the oil tank and one for the fuel tank. The oil tank vent is the horizontal line on top, fuel tank vent is plugged into the fuel tank below and pointing up. 






Here is the manual oil pump, the longer fitting on the bottom is the pick up /inlet, the top with the clamp is the outlet.






I opened up the clamp with a small screw driver.






Here you see the manual pump installed with the outlet clamped to the top, the inlet can just press over the barb on the bottom.






Mark


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## heimannm (Dec 29, 2011)

The oil pick up is pressed into the tank, and the tank portion is plumbed and ready to go. Notice the fuel tank vent is now installed as well.











Oil pump and oil line removed.






New oil pick up line installed and the pump back in the saw. There is a spring inside the pick up line to prevent it from kinking or collapsing. I would recommend priming the pump before you put it all together as it takes a long time to prime the pump once you start the saw.






The hard (black) plastic line supplies oil from the manual pump to the saw, the pick up line for the oil pump is the tygon.






Mark


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## heimannm (Dec 29, 2011)

Here is the port for the impulse line...






and here is the fitting that installs in that port.






Impulse fitting installed...






and the impulse line connected






Mark


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## heimannm (Dec 29, 2011)

Before assembling the tank to the engine, be sure to put the retainer plate for the bottom of the handle in place...






I installed a couple of screws to keep in it place.






Here is the large "hose pliers" I used to squeeze the clamp joining the flexible oil line over the hard plastic delivery line to the saw.






In hind sight, I think it would be easier to connect the lines to the tank portion, then pull them back through the opening in the engine when you put it all back together.

One thing I did not show is one elbow fitting between the flexible line on tee (pick up) that connects to the long flexible line to the oil pump on the engine, this makes turning the corner possible without kinking the line.

Mark


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## briantutt (Dec 30, 2011)

Wow Mark! those photos and instructions will be great for me later this week. I just got my dead diesel jetta back up and running and can get back to the titan. Thanks for the pics and time spent to Detail the process for us.

Brian


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## briantutt (Dec 31, 2011)

Spent a half hour or so cleaning this crank case up. Rinsed good with mix, bearings feel like crap. Maybe this is why it was in a box in a million pieces. Guess i will pop it open now...

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 1, 2012)

The case splitter I built for my Pioneer 25 fit perfectly on the Titan 50. Popped it open, sprayed out bearings with carb cleaner, let it air dry for awile and sprayed WD40 in all the bearings. Feels smooth now, no rough patches. Do you think I can reuse the old case gasket if I use laquer thinner to clean it up and then use high-tack on both sides?


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## heimannm (Jan 1, 2012)

Keep in mind that you must have a perfect seal, if the gasket cleans up smooth with no tears, scratches, our gouges out of it you should be O.K.

Mark


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## briantutt (Jan 1, 2012)

heimannm said:


> Keep in mind that you must have a perfect seal, if the gasket cleans up smooth with no tears, scratches, our gouges out of it you should be O.K.
> 
> Mark








It came off very easy. Wiped both sides down with paint thinner then laquer thinner. Do you think high tack or motoseal would be better?

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 1, 2012)

briantutt said:


> It came off very easy. Wiped both sides down with paint thinner then laquer thinner. *Do you think high tack or motoseal would be better?* Brian



BUMP oke:


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## briantutt (Jan 1, 2012)

Ahhhh. Looking better now. I need a fuel filter and a new oring for the pulse fitting so i can't mate the halves today...

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 1, 2012)

This pic is better i hope

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 1, 2012)

Can one of you guys confirm the correct spark plug is DJ8J for the titan 50?


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## leecopland (Jan 1, 2012)

briantutt said:


> Can one of you guys confirm the correct spark plug is DJ8J for the titan 50?



According to Chain Saw Collectors Corner it is one of these; AC CS45T, Champion DJ8

Great photos! Your rebuild looks to be coming along very well

Best of the season!

Lee


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## vw_motorsports (Jan 2, 2012)

It seems the titans are "the" winter" project saws. I just picked up a titan 50 on CL and Mitch sent me a tank for my 57 that was crushed when a loaned it out to a friend. The saws are easy work on but just take time to do all the lines. I find the titan 57 to be a much nicer saw than a 3.7 timberbear. Hopefully the 50 will be just as nice.


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## mweba (Jan 2, 2012)

Looking good guys! I was pleased with the power my 57 produced. 

My lease was up at the end of the year so I cleaned out my old shop and moved everything over to the new one. I found another near complete 57 and a complete 50 in the pile. Seems that I have given away all the good coils I have left though lol.

Rob, I have that carb "bucket" but no filter.

Jim, I have the chainbrake handle you are in need of. PM me your addy and I will get it out. It is already boxed ready to go.


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## briantutt (Jan 2, 2012)

*Last Elbow*

I am ready to mate the halves now but I am confused where the last elbow fitting goes? I have all of the tank seal ones in and there is one left over. Does anyone have a picture that shows it in the proper place?

It doesn't go on the pulse line according to Mark's photos...


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## briantutt (Jan 2, 2012)

Just looked at IPL hoping. It looks like it goes in the fuel tank vent line???


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## briantutt (Jan 2, 2012)

Triple posting!






I made the vent look like the ipl but now i have a question about the black wires. Does the one from the coil follow the plug wire up and over or does it sneak through the little open in the lower left corner of the plastic shield? if it goes down there then i have to pull that shield off or snip the end off the wire.

Brian


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## briantutt (Jan 2, 2012)

*Fuel & Oil Lines with Labels*






Here is a labeled photo for future reference. After a lot of dorking around this appears to match the IPL and fits nicely.


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## briantutt (Jan 6, 2012)

*It's Alive!!!*










Amazingly this saw came to me in a big pile of parts in a box and I got it all back together with your help...not one bolt or anything missing. Went outside put the bar and chain on (which was in the box freshly sharpened as well:smile2. Gas and oil and a few tugs and she lit up to life! reved,idled pumped manual oil for about 3 minutes and surprise surprise oil starts spraying off the tip!

I will have to cut some with it in the daylight tomorrow (the saw basically looks new???)

Thanks guys for the post which got me started and for the tips along the way!

Not bad considering I only have about $15 into it (carb kit, fuel filter, spark plug and fuel line).

Pretty rewarding,

Brian


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## vw_motorsports (Jan 6, 2012)

briantutt said:


> Amazingly this saw came to me in a big pile of parts in a box and I got it all back together with your help...not one bolt or anything missing. Went outside put the bar and chain on (which was in the box freshly sharpened as well:smile2. Gas and oil and a few tugs and she lit up to life! reved,idled pumped manual oil for about 3 minutes and surprise surprise oil starts spraying off the tip!
> 
> I will have to cut some with it in the daylight tomorrow (the saw basically looks new???)
> 
> ...



I've had a titan 50 and 57 and I find them to be a very underrated saw. one of the nicest "modern" macs built. They feel nice and cut great, not heavy like a timberbear.


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## brokenbudget (Jan 9, 2012)

good job brian! glad you got it running:msp_smile:
i hope you crimped that clamp on the manual oiler before squeezing the engine and handle back together (pic in post #64), otherwise you'll have to pull the carb box. if it isn't done, you'll pop the line off as soon as you push the button. you don't want mess on that clean saw!:jester:


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2012)

brokenbudget said:


> good job brian! glad you got it running:msp_smile:
> i hope you crimped that clamp on the manual oiler before squeezing the engine and handle back together (pic in post #64), otherwise you'll have to pull the carb box. if it isn't done, you'll pop the line off as soon as you push the button. you don't want mess on that clean saw!:jester:



Ha! Good catch. I did crimp it but i had to go get a little end nip wire cutter to do it which i didn't have when i took the picture.

Brian


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## heimannm (Jan 9, 2012)

I believe that "extra" elbow is supposed to go in the oil pick up line for the automatic pump, out of the tank then a short tube and the elbow to help avoid the sharp bend you describe.

At least that is what I think is supposed to happen, as noted in an earlier post when you open one of these up a lot of part and pieced just fall out along with the crumbled lines.

Mark


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2012)

heimannm said:


> I believe that "extra" elbow is supposed to go in the oil pick up line for the automatic pump, out of the tank then a short tube and the elbow to help avoid the sharp bend you describe.
> 
> At least that is what I think is supposed to happen, as noted in an earlier post when you open one of these up a lot of part and pieced just fall out along with the crumbled lines.
> 
> Mark



You could be right, I just went by IPL. I am sure the guy before me took it apart and everything just crumbled apart so he put it in a box and never looked back. His loss!


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## leecopland (Jan 9, 2012)

briantutt said:


> You could be right, I just went by IPL. I am sure the guy before me took it apart and everything just crumbled apart so he put it in a box and never looked back. His loss!



Hi Brian,

Is it my eyes or is the oil line going to the oil pump narrower than the rest of the lines. I've used 1/4 / 1/8 Tygon throughout and did have some trouble getting this line behind the oil pump screws.

My project has come to a halt due to a New Years day heart attack, but I'm following this with great interest as I only have the putting back together stage left. I'm hoping to have a real nice saw at the end. I got my 57 in a group of 5 non-runners I bought for $80.00 so I too have about $20.00 into this one plus gas lines.

All the best for the New Year

Lee


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## briantutt (Jan 9, 2012)

leecopland said:


> Hi Brian,
> 
> Is it my eyes or is the oil line going to the oil pump narrower than the rest of the lines. I've used 1/4 / 1/8 Tygon throughout and did have some trouble getting this line behind the oil pump screws.
> 
> ...



Only the very short runs for the breathers are slightly smaller O.D. otherwise its all the same because I put all of those springs back in the lines. Even the long one headed to the oiler.


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## heimannm (Jan 9, 2012)

I used the same Tygon tubing for all of the lines and did find that the one under the oil pump is a very tight fit indeed. I did not really pay attention to the size of the tubing...

Mark


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## leecopland (Jan 10, 2012)

brokenbudget said:


> good job brian! glad you got it running:msp_smile:
> i hope you crimped that clamp on the manual oiler before squeezing the engine and handle back together (pic in post #64), otherwise you'll have to pull the carb box. if it isn't done, you'll pop the line off as soon as you push the button. you don't want mess on that clean saw!:jester:



Steve you need to clear out some of your PMs there is no room to receive new messages,

Regards,

Lee:msp_thumbup:


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## jimdad07 (Jan 10, 2012)

Not trying to hijack, but if you guys can please check this thread out: http://www.arboristsite.com/off-topic-forum/188558-23.htm#post3392218, this family could use some well wishing.


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## leecopland (Jan 11, 2012)

When I took my 57 apart I only found two clamp bands and two springs on what was left of the lines. Do you need more than two clamps? I'm not going to use the spring as the Tygon tubing seems to resist kinks. I think the clamps are just needed on the manual oiler line. Please correct me if I'm wrong.:msp_confused:

Thanks,

Lee


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## heimannm (Jan 11, 2012)

Only two clamps are needed to secure the flexible tube to the manual oil pump outlet and where the flexible tube connects to the black hard plastic line delivering oil from the manual pump to the bar.

Mark


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## leecopland (Jan 12, 2012)

heimannm said:


> Only two clamps are needed to secure the flexible tube to the manual oil pump outlet and where the flexible tube connects to the black hard plastic line delivering oil from the manual pump to the bar.
> 
> Mark


Thanks Mark,
That,s what I'd worked out from various photos and IPLs

Regards,

Lee


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## briantutt (Jan 12, 2012)

heimannm said:


> Only two clamps are needed to secure the flexible tube to the manual oil pump outlet and where the flexible tube connects to the black hard plastic line delivering oil from the manual pump to the bar.
> 
> Mark



I agree, that's how I did it.


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## drumbum (Jan 12, 2012)

leecopland said:


> Hi Brian,
> 
> Is it my eyes or is the oil line going to the oil pump narrower than the rest of the lines. I've used 1/4 / 1/8 Tygon throughout and did have some trouble getting this line behind the oil pump screws.
> 
> ...


Hope you have a speedy recovery!


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## leecopland (Jan 12, 2012)

drumbum said:


> Hope you have a speedy recovery!



Hey pal thanks for the good thoughts! I'm feeling great! Will see my family doc tomorrow to find out exactly what I can do. Like it's snowing but I dare not fire up the snow blower. But I am fiddling with a walbro HDC to try to get an old Hommie going.

Thanks again, have a wonderful New Year

Lee:hmm3grin2orange:


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## leecopland (Feb 13, 2012)

*Small box has arrived*







i can work on these with my eyes closed.[/QUOTE]


Many thanks, the small box has arrived! Please pm me your address so I can send you some $s

Thanks again,

Regards,

Lee


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## vw_motorsports (Feb 13, 2012)

I finally got my 57 up and running again.

If anyone is interested in a very nice titan 50, send me a PM.


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## chainsawwhisperer (Feb 14, 2012)

Lee, glad to hear your doing better!

Does anyone have a chain guard/brake ass. for a Mac Double Eagle 50? 
Thanks
Jim


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## leecopland (Feb 14, 2012)

chainsawwhisperer said:


> Lee, glad to hear your doing better!
> 
> Does anyone have a chain guard/brake ass. for a Mac Double Eagle 50?
> Thanks
> Jim



There is one for sale on Ebay for a Titan 50/57 might well fit. Have you tried "chainsawr" they have tons of parts good folk to deal with.

Regards,

Lee


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## brokenbudget (Mar 6, 2012)

HEY! STILL WAITING ON AN UPDATE!
lee, did you get that saw put together yet? to hell with the heart problems (hearts are for wimps)! get that saw running!:hmm3grin2orange:
mine runs fantastic! na na naa na naaaa!:dance:


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## leecopland (Mar 11, 2012)

*titan 57 re-line*



brokenbudget said:


> HEY! STILL WAITING ON AN UPDATE!
> lee, did you get that saw put together yet? to hell with the heart problems (hearts are for wimps)! get that saw running!:hmm3grin2orange:
> mine runs fantastic! na na naa na naaaa!:dance:



Hi Steve, I've been distracted by a Mini Mac 110, tidying up a Poulan 2050 and most recently working on a Homelite 300 that I picked up for $20.00. Back to the 57, I've been stymied vis-a-vis the seals and the crankcase gasket (making one).

Hearts great, easing back to work but The Depot won't let me work any more the doctors note so only doing 4 four hour shifts per week. Lots of time for tinkering. I've yet to find a good source of all the bits one needs to fettle with these machines. I'll let you know when I get it going.

Regards,

Lee


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## brokenbudget (Mar 11, 2012)

leecopland said:


> Hi Steve, I've been distracted by a Mini Mac 110, tidying up a Poulan 2050 and most recently working on a Homelite 300 that I picked up for $20.00. Back to the 57, I've been stymied vis-a-vis the seals and the crankcase gasket (making one).
> 
> Hearts great, easing back to work but The Depot won't let me work any more the doctors note so only doing 4 four hour shifts per week. Lots of time for tinkering. I've yet to find a good source of all the bits one needs to fettle with these machines. I'll let you know when I get it going.
> 
> ...



well look who decided to show up!
you just had a heart attack and you're working on a mini mac 110? you might as well be eating pure lard and pork rinds while smoking a king sized cigerette drinking a light american beer while trying to defuse a dirty bomb in a room full of crying children:hmm3grin2orange:
those things will be the death of you!:hmm3grin2orange:
can't wait until i get time to tinker:cool2: i'mma going to take some vacation time here in a couple of weeks to get caught up around the houses so i have some free time to play this summer.
on another note: my titan 57 runs very well:msp_thumbup:
when are you gonna get to say something like that?otstir::biggrinbounce2:


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## CTownsend (Nov 5, 2012)

*You Guys ROCK!!*

Wow,..I can FINALLY relax (almost). Lines were SO shot it was hard to trace their paths (I overlooked the oil supply on the side of the tank and used the vent hole,...dugh).

OK,..what about the little metal nipple on the oil pump JUST before the oil supply line meets the metal 90 degree fitting?? It's kind of hidden by the supply line.

Also,...these air filters are $40 each!! Yea, I get it,...supply and demand for parts to a dinosaur,...I guess it doesn't hurt to ask...

If anyone is excessively upset about their saws,...I'll buy em!!


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## briantutt (Nov 5, 2012)

CTownsend said:


> Wow,..I can FINALLY relax (almost). Lines were SO shot it was hard to trace their paths (I overlooked the oil supply on the side of the tank and used the vent hole,...dugh).
> 
> OK,..what about the little metal nipple on the oil pump JUST before the oil supply line meets the metal 90 degree fitting?? It's kind of hidden by the supply line.
> 
> ...



Does this pic help?

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/166289-5.htm#post3373575


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## ront162 (Dec 7, 2012)

*Titan 50 Oil Lines*

I am in process of replacing fuel and oil lines in my titan 50. I am okay with fuel lines, but a lil confused on oil. I managed to put everything back together, and got it running. but cannot get oil to flow to chain. Can someone explain the routing of the oil for me....starting from the manual oiler? The parts listing illustration is confusing.
Thank you for your time


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## briantutt (Dec 7, 2012)

A little way back in the thread there is a link to a picture with them all labelled.

Brian


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## ront162 (Dec 7, 2012)

briantutt said:


> A little way back in the thread there is a link to a picture with them all labelled.
> 
> Brian



thanks....should have looked closer. The manual oiler - does it matter which lines - inlet or outlet - attach to long or short barb?


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## briantutt (Dec 7, 2012)

Yes one is suction one is push

Brian


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## ront162 (Dec 7, 2012)

Thanks


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## briantutt (Sep 12, 2013)

Bump...

Does anyone have a titan coil they are willing to part with?

Brian


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## Joe Kidd (Sep 12, 2013)

Chris-PA said:


> I'm completely unfamiliar with the Titan saws - were they a separate brand for McCulloch, or just a different model range? What time frame were they produced?



My first saw. Bought in '89 after hurricane Hugo. (Titan 50)


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## briantutt (Sep 12, 2013)

I really like how it cuts and handles but i have lost two coils already!

Brian


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## bonosall (Jul 29, 2014)

I know this is an ancient thread, just like the saw, but I have acquired a Titan 57 and like the saw. After using it once, the fuel lines fell apart and literally fell out of the saw. I have new lines and the saw mostly apart. I am at a total loss as to where they all go. This thread looks great, but most of the photos are not here any longer. Any chance the photos of the saws with the fuel and oil lines labelled can be reposted? Or, if anyone has a good diagram as to where the lines go, that would also be great. I think I have the oil lines right, but the fuel seems to have too many holes and not enough other holes/barbs. Also, I understand there are supposed to be two rubber bumpers at the rear of the saw to keep the motor from vibrating the handle, or something like that. Mine is missing those. Where is a good supplier for parts on this saw? I know they don't exist any longer, but it seems things like rubber bumpers could be used from other brands or saws.


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## mweba (Jul 29, 2014)

50/57



Titan lines by mweba1, on Flickr



Titan by mweba1, on Flickr



Titan lines by mweba1, on Flickr



Titan lines by mweba1, on Flickr



Titan oil line by mweba1, on Flickr


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## mweba (Jul 29, 2014)

Terrible video that was not intended for the masses but if it helps.....


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## bonosall (Jul 29, 2014)

Nice. That is helping. The line that is at the base of the flexible intake manifold, where does it go? I gather the lines out of the fuel tank go to carb directly and the other one is a vent. The oil tank has a vent on top and the other line in your photo shows a 90 degree barb, mine has a tee. I have it rigged up so one part of the tee goes to the manual oil primer, the other one goes to the oil pump (routes around the clutch?) and the other end of the oil primer goes to the hard black plastic line that also goes around the clutch. Is this right? I think my problem is the fuel lines. I put it all back together and it will not start. There are two lines at the carb. One is on top, and the other is on the side. From photo 1 it looks like the one on the outlet side of the fuel tank that connects to the fuel filter goes directly up and connects to that side of the carb. The other side of the carb has a nipple and it goes to ???? Does it connect to the bottom of the intake manifold?


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## bonosall (Jul 29, 2014)

I just watched the video and it is a bit dark, but I think it answered most of my questions. The vent tops were not on my hoses. Are these specific to this chainsaw, or can I get some universal ones?


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## bonosall (Aug 3, 2014)

Okay. I think I have all the lines going to the right places now. I have developed another small problem. It does not seem to have a spark now. I have pulled the plug and tugged on the rope and I get nothing. I have pulled the wire from the coil and tested it for continuity from both ends and it seems to be fine. Is there anything that would cause the coil to not throw a spark, other than it being bad? Is there a way to test the coil without replacing it with another one?


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## heimannm (Aug 3, 2014)

I hate to inform you that the ignition module on those particular saws are pretty iffy. There are a few models that use the same module so look at the part number then search around a bit.

Mark


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## bonosall (Aug 13, 2014)

I have done a bit of research, and nobody seems to be able to find it. Has anyone used a different coil on their saw? I can upload a photo of the coil part numbers I have. I have also checked other parts lists and they show a different part number. I love working on old discontinued saws.


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## David Bell (Jan 15, 2015)

briantutt said:


> *Fuel & Oil Lines with Labels*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Brian - would you please repost the picture of the fuel and oil lines w/labels? The original post no longer shows the picture. Thanks, David


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## briantutt (Jan 17, 2015)

David Bell said:


> Brian - would you please repost the picture of the fuel and oil lines w/labels? The original post no longer shows the picture. Thanks, David


 
I canot find the labelled one to save my life but here are the pictures showing them in the right places


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## heimannm (Jan 18, 2015)

I found this photo saved in my archives. I did not create it, I just copied it when it was posted.




These were mine, I believe.



















Mark


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## briantutt (Jan 18, 2015)

heimannm said:


> I found this photo saved in my archives. I did not create it, I just copied it when it was posted.
> 
> View attachment 395908


 
Wow Mark,

You are incredibly organized. That labeled photo is indeed the one I created. Thank you for saving it and digging it up again.

Brian


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## David Bell (Jan 19, 2015)

Thank you!


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## Joe Kidd (Jan 19, 2015)

brokenbudget said:


> yes, however i'm a biased there a good saw.:msp_smile:


I ran a 50 hard after Hugo came through in '89.


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## Pol1780 (Feb 13, 2016)

Thank You...


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## Tim Willis (Oct 11, 2017)

mweba said:


> Spent the last couple hours figuring out the fuel, impulse, and oil lines on this saw. Ended up tearing a second down as a cheat sheet. Line needed is 1/4 OD 1/8 ID (fuel) and 6" of 3/16 OD 1/8 ID (oil line). I will add, there is limited area for several lines so the lengths have to be at a minimum.
> 
> Couple pics for future adventurers to cheat off.


do you still have the cheat sheet pics


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## heimannm (Oct 11, 2017)

Look over this entire page, I think all of Mitch's original photos plus several others have been posted.

Mark


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## Tim Willis (Oct 11, 2017)

heimannm said:


> Look over this entire page, I think all of Mitch's original photos plus several others have been posted.
> 
> Mark


thanks


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