# Strapping Logs



## Boon (Dec 15, 2013)

Milled out some Chinese Elm to 35 mm thickness but the timber is quiet wet and am expecting it to warp because of this and the thickness. Am thinking of strapping the boards together to try and help hold it in place along the stickers.

All the steel strapping tools look like they will not work for smaller logs as they seem too long on the tool, there is one that does nylon but I feel it may not hold enough pressure on the timber to assist in holding.

Anyone got advice or ideas on limiting timber warping or strapping and how Chinese Elm behaves during drying??


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## BobL (Dec 15, 2013)

\One trick to strapping small stuff is to use strong (4 x 2) stickers on the top and/or bottom of the pile that are wider than the log.
Then you have a choice of strap tensioning locations
1) either side of the stack
2) Placing two short packers on top of the topmost sticker allows you to tension on the top.



Here is another way to do it although a lot more $ are needed for the all-thread rod.



However, It can be continually tightened as the pack dries.
With strapping, if method 2 is used, shallow wedges can be packed under the two short packers and be hammered in to tighten the pack.


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## jrhannum (Dec 15, 2013)

I got some of those steel columns that support the "'gorilla racks" at the big warehouses, put one down as a base for slab-drying; used poly "trucker's rope" as cheap tie-downs and applied pressure via several "chinese windlass" wraps. Corragated tin roof-panel is tied on top to keep off the rain. see pic.


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## jrhannum (Dec 15, 2013)

I got some of those steel columns that support the "'gorilla racks" at the big warehouses, put one down as a base for slab-drying; used poly "trucker's rope" as cheap tie-downs and applied pressure via several "chinese windlass" wraps. Corragated tin roof-panel is tied on top to keep off the rain. see pic.


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## Boon (Dec 15, 2013)

Thanks for the replies, I see the methods used allow for adjustment. So then you are telling me that the timber dries and shrinks needing further adjustment over time.

Do I understand correct?

I was thinking of strapping it once under tension and forgetting about it till cured.


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## abbott295 (Dec 15, 2013)

Yes, the wood shrinks as it dries and and tension will have to be adjusted. Ratchet strap tie-downs is one way that has been used. Although the all-thread set-up that BobL shows would work also.


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## BobL (Dec 15, 2013)

The metal tie strap and wedges method also works very well. Just walk around the timber packs with a wooden mallet and give the wedges a whack. I tried using cheap 800lb ratchet straps but the ones I bought (blue ones in a multipack) in time stretched and kept stretching.


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## jrhannum (Dec 15, 2013)

My "windlass" setup allows me to add a few "come-lately" slabs to the stack and that results in re-tightening the whole shebang


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## Boon (Dec 17, 2013)

ok so I take it the strapping on the log and pressure should be done in such a way the it only places pressure on the log from top and bottom

And not tension the logs by wrapping the strapping around the edges of the log and the top?


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## BobL (Dec 17, 2013)

Boon said:


> ok so I take it the strapping on the log and pressure should be done in such a way the it only places pressure on the log from top and bottom
> And not tension the logs by wrapping the strapping around the edges of the log and the top?



That's the ideal way to do them but as long as you only tension where the stickers are located it's is not that critical.
Another reason not to strap the edges is that the straps can dig in and mangle the edges


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## Dave Boyt (Dec 19, 2013)

You might also check out the nylon straps & buckles. They can be re-tensioned, are re-usable, and inexpensive.


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## Boon (Dec 19, 2013)

BobL said:


> That's the ideal way to do them but as long as you only tension where the stickers are located it's is not that critical.
> Another reason not to strap the edges is that the straps can dig in and mangle the edges



When I stacked the timber did not have in mind that I would be strapping them, so the stickers are a bit long to have the straps go over them so I strapped either side of the stickers.....each sticker has two straps one on the left and another the right as close as possible to the vertical sticker stack line. Hope this is ok.


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## Boon (Dec 19, 2013)

jrhannum said:


> I got some of those steel columns that support the "'gorilla racks" at the big warehouses, put one down as a base for slab-drying; used poly "trucker's rope" as cheap tie-downs and applied pressure via several "chinese windlass" wraps. Corragated tin roof-panel is tied on top to keep off the rain. see pic.



That is a great Idea, would also solve the problem of floor space, an investment worth looking at. Thanks


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## jrhannum (Dec 19, 2013)

Fly yer Google-earth airplane to 40 o 28’ 17” N. ; 124o 05’ 58” W. see 1000s BF clear heart redwood (much of it quarter-sawn) stacked and stickered and air-drying before being planed and shaped into very valuable product; yes, they still cut old-growth remnants into such treasure. They use just the weight of the stack to manage differential shrinkage


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## 2treeornot2tree (Dec 20, 2013)

I always sticker between the boards alot and use the nylon strapping with the metal clips. You can tighten the straps as needed as it dries. You can also cheat with the strapping tightener and just put thw front edge of the tool on the edge of the board and crank. It will tighten right up for you and you dont have to worry about the distance you need for the tool.

Another cheap and real easy way is to just use rachet straps. The local amish mill uses those more then they use banding.

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## Boon (Dec 20, 2013)

than


jrhannum said:


> Fly yer Google-earth airplane to 40 o 28’ 17” N. ; 124o 05’ 58” W. see 1000s BF clear heart redwood (much of it quarter-sawn) stacked and stickered and air-drying before being planed and shaped into very valuable product; yes, they still cut old-growth remnants into such treasure. They use just the weight of the stack to manage differential shrinkage


Thanks for that not sure I got to the right place first one was a place in Canberra Australia the second Transverse city in the U.S. a methodist church, any way to find it?


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## jrhannum (Dec 20, 2013)

I got the coordinates from the Google Earth page, lower right corner; can be only one place on earth = the southern tip of the once company-owned town of Scotia, California. Before its takeover by Maxam (a junk-bond maestro), it was a wonderous complex of giant sawmill, plywood plant and company town, committed to sustained logging of its extensive properties and steady employment for its residents. Mostly down the toilet now.


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## Boon (Dec 22, 2013)

BobL said:


> \One trick to strapping small stuff is to use strong (4 x 2) stickers on the top and/or bottom of the pile that are wider than the log.
> Then you have a choice of strap tensioning locations
> 1) either side of the stack
> 2) Placing two short packers on top of the topmost sticker allows you to tension on the top.
> ...



Checked the elm yesterday after strapping it and I think the threaded rod in this case is the answer. 

The straps that were very tight originally are loose after less than a week and there is curving of the boards. Wedging it may not be the correct long term solution, the pressure needed to hold the boards in place has to be alot more than two straps and wedges either side of stickers can exert.

And I think although a really good idea the ratchet straps on 35mm slabs may not work. I feel it needs pressure places downwards onto the flat surfaces to slow it from curving, the straps would be good on thicker timber holding it all in place as a pack. But that is just my personal opinion, it would be good to hear from someone if you have a different opinion and why so I can gain a better understanding.

I don not think the weather here helps, we have had some 35 degree days and considering the amount of moisture that was in the elm this time of year is not right to be milling and air drying such wood, perhaps winter would be better will give it some time to dry slower. 

Live and learn I suppose.


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## 2treeornot2tree (Dec 22, 2013)

I have found that some wood drys better if you quarter saw it and other wood doesnt. Kind of a trial and error thing. I had a bunch of beech I sawed. Didnt quarter saw it and it looks like a half pipe.

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## Boon (Dec 22, 2013)

2treeornot2tree said:


> I have found that some wood drys better if you quarter saw it and other wood doesnt. Kind of a trial and error thing. I had a bunch of beech I sawed. Didnt quarter saw it and it looks like a half pipe.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk




That makes sense, is there a way to deal with boards that are not straight and small??


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## 2treeornot2tree (Dec 22, 2013)

You can cut the curve out of them on a table saw.

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## huskyhank (Dec 22, 2013)

Don't strap it or try to restrain it - just let it dry. 
You can even stand the wood on its end, gently leaning against a wall.
As a a test, I left some slabs leaning against a tree for about 6 months.
No problems.


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## Boon (Mar 28, 2015)

Bout 1 1/2 years ago originally posted this thread with problems concerning movement of Chinese Elm slabs. I was advised to leave the remaining whole logs and mill out in a few years. Well today I got a chance to do some milling of the remaining logs. One was full of cracks probably due to the different tensions within as a branch was out to the side. Another was pretty good and in comparison to the moisture content when originally milled it now seems fairly dry, time will tell as to how much more stable it is now. First lot was cut at 35mm (1 inch) this lot are at 40mm (1 37/64 inch). The dark spots are canola.


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## ChoppyChoppy (Mar 28, 2015)

BobL said:


> \
> 
> However, It can be continually tightened as the pack dries.
> With strapping, if method 2 is used, shallow wedges can be packed under the two short packers and be hammered in to tighten the pack.



Or you can cut the banding, re-tension and crimp it back again. We used tons of that stuff in the military for packaging explosives to warehouse (what I did)


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## 4x4American (Mar 29, 2015)

jrhannum said:


> Fly yer Google-earth airplane to 40 o 28’ 17” N. ; 124o 05’ 58” W. see 1000s BF clear heart redwood (much of it quarter-sawn) stacked and stickered and air-drying before being planed and shaped into very valuable product; yes, they still cut old-growth remnants into such treasure. They use just the weight of the stack to manage differential shrinkage



I tried, but can't figure out the latt + long on google maps or is it strictly google earth?


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## Greenland South (Mar 29, 2015)

4x4American said:


> I tried, but can't figure out the latt + long on google maps or is it strictly google earth?


Google Earth. Just enter the name of the town and state.


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## 4x4American (Mar 30, 2015)

read above I'm trying to find 40 o 28’ 17” N. ; 124o 05’ 58” W I have no idea what town or state its in!


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## Greenland South (Mar 30, 2015)

4x4American said:


> read above I'm trying to find 40 o 28’ 17” N. ; 124o 05’ 58” W I have no idea what town or state its in!


Post # 17


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