# chain sharpening



## Skywalker (Dec 16, 2007)

what do people use to sharpen chains

is there an industrial electric sharpener

the old vise and file is not working for us

cant get chains to cut right


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## ShoerFast (Dec 16, 2007)

Skywalker said:


> what do people use to sharpen chains
> 
> is there an industrial electric sharpener
> 
> ...



If you can't get it right with a file,,,, your really going to go through chains with an electric grinder IMO. 

It's not that hard to get chains to cut. First off, just try to match the factory grind bringing the newly file track all the way into the wore/dull area. 

Some find round-chain (non-chisel) to file easer, it dose cut longer between sharpenings.


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## TDunk (Dec 16, 2007)

I accualy find it easier to just use a file, nothing else. Oregon has a plate that you can clip on to your file wich has all the angles on it and you don't have to worry about depth either. I know Oregon and Stihl chain have a "witness mark" on them so it's pretty easy to get the right anlge on them. I agree with Shoerfast about the electric grinder.


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## hornett22 (Dec 16, 2007)

*if you are doing several chains i'd suggest a grinder and practice.*

it's not hard once you get the hang of it.i'd recommend the MAXX grinder.i think a few guys here sell them.

files are fine for touch up and a couple of chains.when you have a lot of chains and/or long chains,it's time to move on up. chains should be ground anyway after a few filings to get the teeth back to the same length.


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## Unknown Cutter (Dec 16, 2007)

http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39995&highlight=nt+grinder


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## ChiHD (Dec 16, 2007)

sorry to sabotage the thread but...

Any Canadians bought used bucket trucks in U.S? 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I am thinking about getting a used bucket truck and right now with the lower U.S dollar it seems like a good time. I am wondering how the process of bringing it back to Canada works, where to find a good truck, as well as any advice or warnings. Thanks so much


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## joecool85 (Dec 16, 2007)

I don't do it in the vice, I sharpen the chain while it's on the saw. Haven't had a problem doing that, and the chain that came on my Craftsman was REALLY messed up when I got it, cuts perfect now. Practice makes perfect, but if you really want to spend the money, I've heard electric sharpeners are easier to use.


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## Canyonbc (Dec 17, 2007)

ArborCARE(705) said:


> sorry to sabotage the thread but...
> 
> Any Canadians bought used bucket trucks in U.S?
> 
> ...




Do a search or start a new thread asking it, or both.


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## Canyonbc (Dec 17, 2007)

Skywalker said:


> what do people use to sharpen chains
> 
> is there an industrial electric sharpener
> 
> ...



If you do a search there are many other threads that will cover this. 

Sharpening chains by hand is a great way to do it...if you dont have a ton of chains. 

In talking with people the Oregon 501A is the nicest..but i think its like $ 300 plus bucks. 

There is a knock off..(which i have) that is sold at Northertool.com (i got mine shipped to Nor. Cal for under a $ 100). 

There is also a knock off of the Oregon sold through Baileys, which is a sponser on this sight. 

To be honest even though i bought the electric grinder...i have still not fully figured out oh to use it...when i say use it...i mean get it to sharpen correctly...angle and depth. 

Good luck, i would still do a search, hope this helps

Canyon


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## hornett22 (Dec 17, 2007)

*buy a good one.don't skimp.*

you ain't gonna get much for 85.00 and you'll be supporting the commies.

my partner bought one and he got what he paid for.power switch went right after he pulled it out of the box.they sent him a new switch but too much BS for me.there is a topic here about having to do something with a washer as well.i want it to work right out of the box. i bought the stihl grinder for $500 and i love it.a little pricey but it has never hiccuped,it's easy to use and it's saved me a lot of time,money ,and chains.i can file fine but it gets old.i'd rather be cutting than filing.


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## hermit63 (Dec 17, 2007)

*electric ?*

Yes read the threads, epecily the long ones. I can finaly file prety good nowafter 20+ years but last yaer after getting into milling ibought the red nock off not the real cheap one, about a hundred bucks. You cant keep the angles rite through the whole chain, when it gets rocked or hit meatal. but read the threads first.


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## hermit63 (Dec 17, 2007)

*Ohh*

And dont get the dremmil styel they just burn up your chain.


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## Canyonbc (Dec 17, 2007)

hermit63 said:


> Yes read the threads, epecily the long ones. I can finaly file prety good nowafter 20+ years but last yaer after getting into milling ibought the red nock off not the real cheap one, about a hundred bucks. You cant keep the angles rite through the whole chain, when it gets rocked or hit meatal. but read the threads first.



Ya i am finding that to be my problem with it. 

What or do you use a grinder now?


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## JackD_ME (Dec 17, 2007)

Check the gap on you bar!!!
I had a heck of a time getting mine sharp one day, took it to the shop (went for a bunch of stuff) and the guy asked "how does she cut, in circles?"

He sold me a new bar and it cuts perfect now! He said the bar was worn out and comparing the new and old ones, my old one had almost twice the gap!


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## Canyonbc (Dec 17, 2007)

JackD_ME said:


> Check the gap on you bar!!!
> I had a heck of a time getting mine sharp one day, took it to the shop (went for a bunch of stuff) and the guy asked "how does she cut, in circles?"
> 
> He sold me a new bar and it cuts perfect now! He said the bar was worn out and comparing the new and old ones, my old one had almost twice the gap!



Who are you reffering too??? The bar on the saw or the bar on the grinder???


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## squad143 (Dec 19, 2007)

I touch mine up with a file but when they hit objects or after I've used a file for some time I'll use a bench mounted saw chain grinder (I own a Techomec - similar to the Oregon 501A). Yes they are around $300. There are many posts on this subject already. Try a search on bench grinders or chain grinders.


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## newmexico (Dec 20, 2007)

*re. gap on bar*

I'd assume the gap on the bar of the chainsaw to be the one Jack D was talking about. You can put a new chain on a worn out bar and still have a heck of a time getting a straight cut in the wood (certain wood more than other wood) 

Hmmmmm....Wonder if you could just go .063 chain on a worn out .050 bar?


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## romeo (Dec 20, 2007)

newmexico said:


> I'd assume the gap on the bar of the chainsaw to be the one Jack D was talking about. You can put a new chain on a worn out bar and still have a heck of a time getting a straight cut in the wood (certain wood more than other wood)
> 
> Hmmmmm....Wonder if you could just go .063 chain on a worn out .050 bar?



Its best to get a rail closer, I think the .063 will still be to tight even for the worst worn bar.

Where are you from BTW??


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## chainsaw kid (Dec 20, 2007)

*New vs hand filed*

Don't get me wrong....a new chain is always so nice and I would never mess with a new chain..... Often times I wonder though, if after I hand file/knock down the rakers a tad if my saw is cutting better then w/the chain when it was new. I like hand sharpening (in the vice) and afterwards it looks as if you have opened up the tooth somewhat to a more aggressive bite. What do you guys think?


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## chainsaw kid (Dec 20, 2007)

chainsaw kid said:


> Don't get me wrong....a new chain is always so nice and I would never mess with a new chain..... Often times I wonder though, if after I hand file/knock down the rakers a tad if my saw is cutting better then w/the chain when it was new. I like hand sharpening (in the vice) and afterwards it looks as if you have opened up the tooth somewhat to a more aggressive bite. What do you guys think?



Romeo......What is your view on what I said? I thought you would bite but I have to ask...


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## computeruser (Dec 20, 2007)

chainsaw kid said:


> Don't get me wrong....a new chain is always so nice and I would never mess with a new chain..... Often times I wonder though, if after I hand file/knock down the rakers a tad if my saw is cutting better then w/the chain when it was new. I like hand sharpening (in the vice) and afterwards it looks as if you have opened up the tooth somewhat to a more aggressive bite. What do you guys think?



Yup. Better chip clearance, slightly narrower kerf, the precise angles you want, and the raker height that suits your needs, can combine to make a better cutting chain than fresh off the roll.


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## Unknown Cutter (Dec 20, 2007)

my question is whether or not it cuts that much better than one off the roll to warrant filing on a brand new chain vs waiting till it gets dull once before hand filing?


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## chainsaw kid (Dec 20, 2007)

Unknown Cutter said:


> my question is whether or not it cuts that much better than one off the roll to warrant filing on a brand new chain vs waiting till it gets dull once before hand filing?



Thats why I said this....

Don't get me wrong....a new chain is always so nice and I would never mess with a new chain


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## beowulf343 (Dec 20, 2007)

Skywalker said:


> what do people use to sharpen chains
> 
> is there an industrial electric sharpener
> 
> ...



Gotta learn to do it right by hand-hard to carry an electric sharpener out in the field. Every one of my chains is sharpened by hand while on the saw and usually on the tailgate of the truck or on a stump or log. I'll sharpen every second tank of gas and the chain never comes off until the teeth are ground right down. About the only time i'll change chains instead of sharpening is on the long bars if i've hit something serious. 

Sharpening by hand is becoming a lost art.


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## palogger (Dec 20, 2007)

i have run new chains without doing anything to them if i'm in a hurry, but most the time i will hit the rakers a couple times and touch it up before i use it and personally i see and feel a big difference

just my .02 cents worth


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## hermit63 (Jan 13, 2008)

*re.canyon*

for years i filed, and thougt i was good cause it worked
and i hate to file w/o a vice, humping the saw, but i always found that after i got half way through the teeth there wher imperfections left vs right side
also going to deep into the gullet too much hook angle so at some point would take them in and they needed to be takin way back, and of course blued. That became uneceptical so i bought a grinder and now i can true the angels as soon as i notice any lack of preformance. I like to use the file vice combo cause i think it can be better than a grinder and it takes off less meat.
Of course out in the field with no vice and you hit somthing, dirty logs and such you gotta make it work. I can get about four to eight hand fileings befor it needs the grinder depending on conditions, 25-50 strokes per tooth.
And like i said I'm just starting to get good.
And if the bar is off you'll never cut straight. My .058 bar mes. .063 now and no cain works on it.
gonna try a .063 chain on it a see how it dose.
Doing all .050 now lots of new chain and bars, im not into pushing my saws at all any more.


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## reachtreeservi (Jan 13, 2008)

Unknown Cutter said:


> my question is whether or not it cuts that much better than one off the roll to warrant filing on a brand new chain vs waiting till it gets dull once before hand filing?



My question is : Who is this unknown cutter ?

And why does he wear that mask ?


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## mryb (Jan 14, 2008)

Skywalker said:


> what do people use to sharpen chains
> 
> is there an industrial electric sharpener
> 
> ...



I just bought a MAXX. I love it. Dad bought one a year or two ago also & loves it. I like how quiet they are...Rick


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## undercut (Jan 14, 2008)

*files are cheap*

I personally think that files are cheap so bust out a new one when your files are not biting that well. also cut some wood right before you file. kill the saw in the wood while your cutting and you will get alot of the oil off the chain. I noticed if i rev out a saw in the air a few times before i sharpen it has more oil on the chain. Just a tip. It get on your file and makes it harder. Once you get good at hand filing there is nothing better. It takes a long long time to master. took me a year of sharpening 115dl chains everyday. You will know when you get it DOWN. I use a dremil tool just for my rakers. Quick taps with a small stone. I use round files for my cutters, no handle or anything. I just pop one out of the box. sharpen and cut faster than anyone i work with. Once i get a sharpness issue i take a real quick brake and touch it up. It is quick because i didn't continue to hammer my saw to cut. Just let the trigger go in the wood. Switch it off. Just fix it right away. No more revving. Just right when i notice it. Turn the saw of in the cut. Hope this helps people. I would never want a machine sharpened chain (other than brand new) over a chain i hand filed myself. period the end.


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## ray benson (Jan 14, 2008)

I used to believe a new chain out of the box was the ultimate. After 3 or 4 hand sharpening it needed to be machine ground as the angles would be screwed up. The machine ground was good but never as good as a new chain. Then found this site and after much reading and practicing no more dealer machine grinding was necessary. I even touch up a new chain out of the box with a round file and check/ file the rakers. As far as file handles - try a golf ball .


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## reachtreeservi (Jan 14, 2008)

Skywalker said:


> what do people use to sharpen chains
> 
> is there an industrial electric sharpener
> 
> ...




Check out these grinders. It doesn't get much more industrial than these. 

http://www.silveychaingrinder.com/


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## Rftreeman (Jan 15, 2008)

I use one of these it is pretty much a set it and forget it thing, it mounts to the bar and keeps the same angles on both sides of the chain, I only use it on my 36" and 24" bars all the others are just by hand with a file.


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## Slvrmple72 (Jan 16, 2008)

I file by hand. I use Pferd round files on the cutters for the first two sharpenings and then use the combination cutter/raker file for the third sharpening. This setup works great and keeping the rakers at the right height keeps the chips big without making the saw too jerky in the cut. On the looong chains and badly damaged ones I will sharpen with the Oregon Sure Sharp replacement stones but I put them in the Variable Speed Dremel w/ the flex shaft. I have a bar mounted to the front of my workbench that I drop the dull chains in and get to work. Once sharpened I dunk it in a jar of fresh motor oil and wrap it in a piece of towel that goes in the case for that saw. Why is it I always have more dull chains then sharp ones on hand?


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## 046 (Jan 16, 2008)

when filing by hand... here's a few things that will help. 

1. clamp chainsaw bar in heavy vise, then adjust to correct tension. 
2. use only sharp correct size files. Stihl files preferred
4. must see what you are doing. if that takes eye glasses and extra lights, then fine. 
5. personal preference, but I prefer a file guide. holds consistant angle better. 
6. measure file size to make sure it's the correct file. 
7. file one side, then re clamp bar before sharpening other side. taking no more than two full strokes on each teeth. if it's needs more, go back to that teeth. 

it's a good idea to use stihl's clamp on chain sharpener. it will show you exact angles to imitate.


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## Scots Climber (Jan 26, 2008)

I do mine on the saw with the saw on the bench using Stihl files (no guide), and as Slvrmple72 said I do the rakers every third sharpen. I've never used a grinder, but since I've put the 36" bar on my MS660W, I think I might get one  

My groundworker has an annoying knack of hitting the ground with the tip of the bar and then making a poor job of evening up the teeth :censored: At least that's only a 18" bar.


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## B-Edwards (Jan 27, 2008)

I use the Silvey 510 and it is an awesome grinder, my climber dulls every saw he touches every-time he touches one. We have had the talk ,it does no good, in is words (he's dammed good with a saw) and doesn't understand why i am so picky. When I said every-time he touches it I meant it. Chain grinders imo don't waste chain ,dulling them wastes chain ,you have to get it Sharp or it ain't gonna cut. I've had blisters from trying to sharpen a 3 foot on my 066. The answer to your question is relative to your situation, but if you have a genius like I do who dulls it every-time he touches it maybe a grinder is in the future for you.


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## Canyonbc (Jan 27, 2008)

B-Edwards said:


> I use the Silvey 510 and it is an awesome grinder, my climber dulls every saw he touches every-time he touches one. We have had the talk ,it does no good, in is words (he's dammed good with a saw) and doesn't understand why i am so picky. When I said every-time he touches it I meant it. Chain grinders imo don't waste chain ,dulling them wastes chain ,you have to get it Sharp or it ain't gonna cut. I've had blisters from trying to sharpen a 3 foot on my 066. The answer to your question is relative to your situation, but if you have a genius like I do who dulls it every-time he touches it maybe a grinder is in the future for you.



Hello, 

I was looking at the Silvey, sight last night. The grinder works well? How much did you pay for it?? (if you dont mind me asking). I emailed them...but do tey sell it through other companies...or do you order straight through Silvey. 

Thanks 

Canyon


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## B-Edwards (Jan 27, 2008)

Mine was $500 range but its been awhile. I got it at Sherrills when you could walk in ,before they went to Vermeer and mail only. It is a great machine, takes a lil getting used to like everything but well worth it. As i mentioned if you have guys who don't get the meaning of trying to keep a saw sharp this machine is for you. There's alot to keeping a saw running like it supposed to. If i owned a saw sharp store Id never have to buy another chain. Most people throw away very good chains thinking they are ruined. When I throw chains away they are losing teeth.


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## Canyonbc (Jan 27, 2008)

B-Edwards said:


> Mine was $500 range but its been awhile. I got it at Sherrills when you could walk in ,before they went to Vermeer and mail only. It is a great machine, takes a lil getting used to like everything but well worth it. As i mentioned if you have guys who don't get the meaning of trying to keep a saw sharp this machine is for you. There's alot to keeping a saw running like it supposed to. If i owned a saw sharp store Id never have to buy another chain. Most people throw away very good chains thinking they are ruined. When I throw chains away they are losing teeth.



Thanks for the information. 

I was just on Sherill web site, and didn't see it on there...only saw the Oregon 511-A, which there are lots of posts about here....so i wont ask any questions about that grinder...

i emailed Silvey, so waiting for there response. 

Thanks

canyon


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