# Stihl 020 AVP "Electronic"



## peter399 (Aug 1, 2008)

Alright, so I took the old 020 AVP "Electronic" out of the shed today..
Looks like she's been to hell and back  Compression seems OK by pulling the rope. Took muffler off, piston looks nice. My old man says it won't start. 
Have replaced the fuel, now I need a new plug. Fuel line seems OK. Set the carb to stop -1 turn on L and H. Don't know if that's factory setting on this one. Probably the carb needs to be cleaned. Now the problem, looks like you more or less have to split the case on this thing to access the carb ?? Any ideas ? 

What should I expect? Power anywhere near a 200 ? What is the behind the AVP letters?


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## peter399 (Aug 1, 2008)




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## pioneerguy600 (Aug 1, 2008)

I just did a lot of work on a saw just like this one. They are not easy to work on and have to be opened up from the side. If you remove the rear av mount bolt from the handle and just loosen the front one the handle will lift up enough to let the engine slide out to the right hand side. You have to remove the two front recoil side bolts,the two nuts behind the air cleaner cover that hold the carb in place,there is a bolt behind the spark plug wire under the muffler and the front handle bolts,one bottom and two top. Once all of these are out the right side engine and housing should slide over and out. I found the impulse line shot and the molded fuel line at the tank was too lose to seal to the carb nipple.The rubber carb boot can sometimes have a rip or hole in them so check that and the carb its self should be cleaned and kitted,they are very finniky and must be squeaky clean to get them to work correctly. The settings seem to work at near to one turn out each with a little tweaking once the saw is up and running. I also had to take the gas tank apart and make a new gasket as the tank started leaking after I got the saw up and running good.
Pioneerguy600


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## pioneerguy600 (Aug 1, 2008)

I think the AVP means anti vibration professional but I have no manual or anything in print to back this up.
Pioneerguy600


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## RES (Aug 1, 2008)

I just cleaned the carburetor on one of my 020's. It can be removed without taking the flywheel off. There are two hex bolts that hold it on. You have to remove the impulse line to allow it to slide off the two long studs. The rubber boot stays behind.


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## RES (Aug 1, 2008)

Most of the 020's have top handles. I believe the ones with the rear handles are the AVP models.


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## pioneerguy600 (Aug 1, 2008)

Spring loaded round clamp holds boot to carb, just remember to reapply it when the carb is put back in place and check the boot for air leaks,has to be tight or leanout will occur.
Pioneerguy600


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## peter399 (Aug 2, 2008)

Thank you guys, I'll follow your description and keep you posted.


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## RES (Aug 2, 2008)

I agree with Pioneerguy, these saws are very sensitive to contamination. I don't know how many times I have taken the saws apart to clean the carburetor. I think the problem is in the air filtration. These older saws don't clean up the incoming air very well.


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## pioneerguy600 (Aug 2, 2008)

The saw I worked on had so much junk in the gas tank that I tried four flush outs and still did not get it clean until I had to split the gas tank to replace a leaking gasket.I annalized the junk from the tank and there was a teaspoon of water,sawdust and chips,orange Permatex silicone,particles and bits,transparent chips of plastic sheeting and rust particles from a steel gas can the owner uses to fuel the saw.
On top of that the pickup filter screen had a rip up one side so the carb filled with this crap as well so a good cleaning and new kit was in order along with the gas and impulse lines.
Pioneerguy600


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## RES (Aug 3, 2008)

Jerry, I think it is a good practice to split the gas tank on these old saws. I inspected the inside of the gas tank on my original 020 that I had been using for 30+ years. The gasoline had caused the sealing gasket to break apart inside of the tank. The tank was loaded with small pieces of gasket material. I found it was very easy to split the tank, clean it out thoroughly and replace the gasket.


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## pioneerguy600 (Aug 3, 2008)

RES said:


> Jerry, I think it is a good practice to split the gas tank on these old saws. I inspected the inside of the gas tank on my original 020 that I had been using for 30+ years. The gasoline had caused the sealing gasket to break apart inside of the tank. The tank was loaded with small pieces of gasket material. I found it was very easy to split the tank, clean it out thoroughly and replace the gasket.



+1


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## peter399 (Aug 3, 2008)

Actually, it looks like I will now sell it! A collector offers me 100 USD for it!!!


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## P10 (Oct 19, 2011)

*No spark Stihl 020 AVP*

Just assembled a Stihl 020 AVP (yes the long handled professional) from some boxes of Stihl parts that a friend gave me. No spark. I suspect the ignition module 1217280101 to be bad. Zero ohms between screw to hold coil & shutoff wires down and either of the 2 screw bosses that the screws to mount and ground the module go thru.

How may one further test the module? May it be replaced with points & condenser if it is bad and its replacement is no longer available?


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## P10 (Oct 20, 2011)

Ok, I had the coil wire grounded under a hold down screw. Fixed that & I've got spark! Starts & dies. Won't stay running. Compression is only 50psi. I have 2 spare crankcase & cylinder assemblies plus a spare carb, flywheel & coil.

I don't think the the carb is pumping enough fuel. Is that due to low compression or possibly a bad diaphram in the carb or the needle rocker is out of adjustment?


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## blackoak (Oct 20, 2011)

P10 said:


> Ok, I had the coil wire grounded under a hold down screw. Fixed that & I've got spark! Starts & dies. Won't stay running. Compression is only 50psi. I have 2 spare crankcase & cylinder assemblies plus a spare carb, flywheel & coil.
> 
> I don't think the the carb is pumping enough fuel. Is that due to low compression or possibly a bad diaphram in the carb or the needle rocker is out of adjustment?


I'm pretty sure your problem is the 50 psi of compression. Did you pull the muffler off to check the piston and cylinder condition?


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## P10 (Nov 30, 2011)

Piston & wall are smooth, not scored. 
I put in new rings and a WA carb kit. 
Still won't stay running. 
I split the gas tank & cleaned it. 
I can start it on spray but it the carb's not providing the fuel. 
What to check next?

How can one access the crank seals?


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## Saddle Mander (Aug 27, 2013)

Flagging for later.


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## H 2 H (Aug 27, 2013)

Here are the two I have 

View attachment 311822


020 AV

View attachment 311823


020 AVP

These are touchy when working on a few screws are hard to find when taking them apart the first time

I used fuel line for impulse hose and check the boot for cracks (air leaks)

You put a MM on this little saw and it is a runner 

These saws are strong for there size

I like running the AVP better than the AV


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