# Best chain for a Husqvarna 435 & hackberry.



## ClickClickBoom (Apr 25, 2011)

Hello, 

I'm hoping you can help out a novice, read the chain FAQ's, still not sure what/ where to get the best chain for my task. 

I had a 90 ft tall hackberry cut down, and had them cut the trunk / limbs in 16 in sections. I need to quarter some of these to be able to get them into a splitter. 

I only have a Husqvarna 435 with a 16 in bar, and a bigger saw isn't in the budget. Can you recommend the best chain to cut through this? I heard that hackberry is hard on chains?

Thanks!


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## blsnelling (Apr 25, 2011)

A *sharp *non-safety chain.


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## muddawg (Apr 25, 2011)

never had any issues with hackberry and a sharp chain

:msp_biggrin: even a safety chain didnt cause any problems 

mike


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## barneyrb (Apr 25, 2011)

If it has .325 then anybodys non safety chain should be ok, full or semi chisel is your choice. 

If it has 3/8 lo-profile then I would use that new Stihl I think it is 63PS3. I just put 3 tanks through a Poulan S25DA this morning with that set up on it and it will not back up, very good chain for 3/8 lopro.


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## Sagetown (Apr 25, 2011)

A Safety Chain is for those who carelessly stick the nose of the bar into the wood or hard object with the chain turning on the bar. Doing it will cause the bar to kick back up towards the operator. 

A non-safety chain cuts faster than a safety chain.
A Semi-Chisel chain works well in dirty conditions.
A Full-Chisel chain has wider teeth and dull quickly in dirty conditions

For a 435 w/16"bar ~
A Husqvarna chain H22-66 is a good Semi-Chisel chain
An OREGON 20BPX-66 is also a good Semi-Chisel chain
I prefer OREGON brand.......


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## RAMROD48 (Apr 25, 2011)

Sagetown said:


> A Safety Chain is for those who carelessly stick the nose of the bar into the wood or hard object with the chain turning on the bar. Doing it will cause the bar to kick back up towards the operator.
> 
> A non-safety chain cuts faster than a safety chain.
> A Semi-Chisel chain works well in dirty conditions.
> ...


 
Or people with no experience and dont know any better...


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## hamish (Apr 25, 2011)

Just make sure whatever chain you choose to go with (LPX if its clean) let the saw to the cutting (no need to lean on it, if the chain is sharp it will self-feed), take it easy and go dammit, that 435 can cut some wood!


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 25, 2011)

Sagetown said:


> A Safety Chain is for those who carelessly stick the nose of the bar into the wood or hard object with the chain turning on the bar. Doing it will cause the bar to kick back up towards the operator.
> 
> A non-safety chain cuts faster than a safety chain.
> A Semi-Chisel chain works well in dirty conditions.
> ...


 

This saw uses the narrow kerf .325 H30 chains, I think your reccommendations were for the regular style chain?


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 25, 2011)

RAMROD48 said:


> Or people with no experience and dont know any better...



I'm not an expert, but also not an idiot :msp_razz:


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## Sagetown (Apr 25, 2011)

ClickClickBoom said:


> This saw uses the narrow kerf .325 H30 chains, I think your reccommendations were for the regular style chain?


 
That's correct. My referral is for the standard bar. You're on top of this subject, which is 'Right On'. I still would go with the Semi-Chisel. It does a great job. The Full-Chisel makes a lot more sawdust.


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 25, 2011)

I think I can use any chain with:

•66 drive links
•.325" pitch
•.050" gauge

I was looking at baileysonline.com and will admit it's rather confusing.

(Bailey's - Chainsaw Chain > Oregon Chainsaw Chain > Oregon .325" Pitch Chainsaw Chain)

The Oregon 95VPX is the only one listed as narrow kerf. But the .050 guage is what indicates the narrow kerf, which is what is needed for this saw/bar, correct?

With that in mind, I can either go with the BPX or LPX which are both more agressive that the VPX which I believe is the stock type chain?


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## REJ2 (Apr 25, 2011)

Hackberry is predominately what I cut, its not at all hard on chains. Lets discuss the way your going to quarter them big rounds. Laying the rounds on the ground with the bark touching the ground allows you to enter the bark with your bar parallel to the ground is the way you want to approach it. Lengthwise not crosscut. Any sharp chain will cut Hackberry with the crosscut and or noodling approach. Ripping is another story. For more info search the word noodles.


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## Sagetown (Apr 25, 2011)

ClickClickBoom said:


> I think I can use any chain with:
> 
> •66 drive links
> •.325" pitch
> ...


 
Okay; Bailey's confused me too. .050"gauge is the Bar's gap width for the chain drivers. The Kerf is the width of the tooth. The standard Kerf will not have any effect on the gauge. When looking at the VPX , BPX, and LPX, the tooth increases in width, (V) being the narrowest, and (L) widest. At least that's the way mine look.

p.s. I might as well add the Pitch: I'm thinking that a .325" pitch chain link is measured from the 1st pin hole on a "Drive Link" to the 1st pin hole on the next "Drive Link", which would be equal to 0.65" per length of chain link.


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 25, 2011)

Got the chains ordered. Thanks All.


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## Philbert (Apr 25, 2011)

ClickClickBoom said:


> This saw uses the narrow kerf .325 H30 chains, I think your reccommendations were for the regular style chain?


 


ClickClickBoom said:


> Got the chains ordered. Thanks All.



First, welcome to A.S.!

Second, hope it's not too late - but your options are a bit more limited with the narrow kerf chain. It is what came on my Husqvarna 353 and I like it. It uses less horsepower to cut a narrower kerf, but is not a beefy as a regular chain and will not take the same abuse or hold up on a higher powered saw.

Don't want to insult you if you know this, but you started out by stating that you are a novice: the chain, guide bar, and drive sprocket work together as a system. If you change one, you may need to change the others.

Specifically, for your saw, if you try to use 'regular' 0.325 pitch chain, you need a standard guide bar, even thought they are both 0.050 gauge. The narrower bar will not support the regular links properly. You might have some clearance issues with your clutch cover with the wider chain, maybe not.

Same thing is true in reverse: don't put narrow kerf chain on a standard bar as the bar may hang up in the cut due to lack of clearance.

Husqvarna's H30 chain is made by Oregon. They sell it as 95VG, which only comes in a semi-chisel, low-kickback version. Other companies may sell other versions of narrow kerf chain.

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf

The H30 / 95VP chains cut very well if kept sharp - they do not have the raised tie straps that annoy some users of low kickback chain.

Philbert


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## Philbert (Apr 25, 2011)

ClickClickBoom said:


> I had . . . them cut the trunk / limbs in 16 in sections. I need to quarter some of these to be able to get them into a splitter.


 
Another thing - since you do not have a huge saw, take your time quartering these. A 16" bar buried in 16" wood will put stress on the saw, especially if your chain is not really sharp and/or you try to push it. Use a light touch, let the chain do the work, and clear the saw from the work periodically.

Also, do a search on this site for 'noodling' - cutting the sections from the side instead of 'ripping' from the ends. It is something that I learned from this site (your chain is designed for 'cross-cutting' the log into sections).

Philbert


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## Sagetown (Apr 25, 2011)

> Philbert ~ Specifically, for your saw, if you try to use 'regular' 0.325 pitch chain, you need a standard guide bar


 
So, this narrow kerf .325" bar for a Husky is like a 3/8" low profile bar for other small saws, is that basically what your saying? If that's the case he definitly needs the narrow kerf chains.


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## Philbert (Apr 26, 2011)

Sagetown said:


> So, this narrow kerf .325" bar for a Husky is like a 3/8" low profile bar for other small saws, is that basically what your saying? If that's the case he definitly needs the narrow kerf chains.


 
Narrow kerf chain is usually .325 pitch, but can be 0.043 or 0.050 gauge. It needs to be run on a narrow kerf bar of the correct gauge. It uses a standard drive sprocket. Oregon calls their narrow kerf chain 'MicroLite'.

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf

3/8" Low Profile chain needs a 3/8LP drive sprocket and nose sprocket in the bar. I learned from A.S. threads that it is not really interchangeable with 'regular' 3/8" pitch.

They are both good chain systems, but you have fewer choices in cutter/chain styles than when running standard 0.325 or 3/8" pitch chain. So the OP needs narrow kerf chain on that saw.

Philbert


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## Sagetown (Apr 26, 2011)

This is my understanding then of this NK rigging. 
There is no harm done if the OP uses a standard chain on his NK Bar. It is nothing like the lowprofile vs standard 3/8 set-ups. Even the NK chain will work on a standard bar, but maybe not as fast.


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 26, 2011)

Philbert said:


> Narrow kerf chain is usually .325 pitch, but can be 0.043 or 0.050 gauge. It needs to be run on a narrow kerf bar of the correct gauge. It uses a standard drive sprocket. Oregon calls their narrow kerf chain 'MicroLite'.
> 
> http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf
> 
> ...


 

As far as I can tell .325 chain comes in .050 or .058 mm, not .043 and .050. The stock chain is .325 x .050 with 66 drive links so I can use any chain with those same specifications.

specs:
Husqvarna H30-66 - Replacement .325 (66 Drive Link) Low Vibration Chain Loop (Fits Models 435, 440, 445)

The narrow kerf chains are a more efficient for a saw of this size, but that advantage would be more than offset with a regular kerf chisel chain.

Correct, or am I all confused again?


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## Philbert (Apr 26, 2011)

Sagetown said:


> There is no harm done if the OP uses a standard chain on his NK Bar. . . . Even the NK chain will work on a standard bar, but maybe not as fast.



I disagree Sagetown. One might get away with it for a short time, but I think that it will lead to wear (bar and tie straps), binding, or uneven cutting issues.

Philbert

_"Always use a Micro-Lite™bar with a Micro-Lite™chain. Here’s why: 
To help a Micro-Lite™chain cut its narrower kerf, Micro- Lite™bars are built slightly thinner than standard bars. If Micro-Lite™chain is run on a standard bar, there may be hang-ups during the cut. And if standard chain is run on 
a Micro-Lite™bar, all the performance advantages of cutting a narrower kerf will be lost."_


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 26, 2011)

Philbert said:


> I disagree Sagetown. One might get away with it for a short time, but I think that it will lead to wear (bar and tie straps), binding, or uneven cutting issues.
> 
> Philbert
> 
> ...


 
Philbert, 

at the risk of me sounding like an idiot (it's possible, this is way more confusing than it needs to be).

The 435 uses a narrow Kerf Pixel bar:
Bailey's - Husqvarna 16" Narrow Kerf Pixel Chainsaw Bar

not a Micro lite which you have been referring to:
Bailey's - Husqvarna 16" Micro Lite Chainsaw Bar

With that said, it does say the the pixel bar is thinner than a standard bar.

I have seen references on this site (and on the web) of people using normal chisel chain in the 435 with good success (no chain model given). So, it would appear that it works fine with anecdotal evidence. 

However, is there another bar that I should also purchase that would be better suited to the chisel / semi-chisel, and would also fit the saw?


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## Sagetown (Apr 26, 2011)

> Philbert ~ One might get away with it for a short time,



Yes; even though *the B/C configuration ought to be adhered to especially with heavy usage*. Most homeowners won't use their saws enough to do any harm to either bar or chain. In other words, cross swapping the B/C can be done, it just isn't kosher.


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 26, 2011)

Sorry my replies are showing up late, they all have to be moderated before they are posted. 

Not sure how many posts I have to have before that goes away?


EDIT: looks like they're being auto-posted now. YIPEE


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## Philbert (Apr 26, 2011)

ClickClickBoom said:


> at the risk of me sounding like an idiot (it's possible, this is way more confusing than it needs to be). The 435 uses a narrow Kerf Pixel bar: not a Micro lite which you have been referring to:


 
Same thing - just a different name. Again, Oregon makes Husqvarna's chain; they may make their bars too.

It can be confusing. STIHL, and Oregon, and Bailey's, and others use their own trade names for their products, which is why it helps to understand what they mean, or at least what you have. 

You have a *66 drive link loop of 0.325 pitch, 0.050 gauge, narrow kerf chain*. You can buy any brand of that you like. You can also look for specialty types of cutters (e.g. full chisel, or carbide, or ripping cutters) or tooth patterns (e.g. skip tooth, etc.) or non-low-kickback chain if you'd like, as long as they are a *66 drive link loop of 0.325 pitch, 0.050 gauge, narrow kerf chain*.

My best guess is that, since this chain is intended for small to medium saws used by homeowners and light professional use, you will only find this chain in the semi-chisel, low-kickback format, but I could be wrong.

Philbert


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## REJ2 (Apr 26, 2011)

My Echo CS530 came from dealer with a NK bar, has the symbol that identifies it, and 33SL chain. The 33SL chain while being a safety chain is i believe a standard kerf chain. I've long since replaced the 33SL chain with Oregon 20LPX and its works fine. Granted its used mostly to limb with now, but when it was my only saw it did it all, fell, limb, and buck. Original bar with plenty of work left, chains get worked down to witness mark and never have had one let go, break. The consensus that i have read here is its ok to use regular kerf chain on an NK bar. Maybe something is lost with saws of less than 50cc's, i dont know.


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## TreePointer (Apr 27, 2011)

Philbert said:


> _"Always use a Micro-Lite™bar with a Micro-Lite™chain. Here’s why:
> To help a Micro-Lite™chain cut its narrower kerf, Micro- Lite™bars are built slightly thinner than standard bars. If Micro-Lite™chain is run on a standard bar, there may be hang-ups during the cut. And if standard chain is run on
> a Micro-Lite™bar, all the performance advantages of cutting a narrower kerf will be lost."_


 
MY TRANSLATION:


> _If you have a .325 NK bar, then a .325 NK chain will cut the narrow kerf, which is the prime benefit of an NK bar.
> 
> If you have a .325 NK bar, then a .325 standard kerf chain will do just fine, but it will not cut a narrow kerf.
> 
> Just don't run NK chain on a standard kerf bar because the kerf cut by the chain teeth will not be wide enough for the bar to move smoothly through the cut._



My NE346XP came with an Husqvarna branded .325 .050 NK bar and 95VP chain. I've also used Stihl RSC and Oregon 20LPX (both standard kerf) on that bar without issue.


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## TreePointer (Apr 27, 2011)

For comparison, the RSC and 20LPX seem to cut more aggressively than the 95VP, but the 95VP was smoother.


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 27, 2011)

Thanks for the help all, I ordered 2 Oregon 20LPX chains the other night, and i'll report back when I've had a chance to use them.


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## Sagetown (Apr 27, 2011)

You're Welcome, CCB:
Ouch ! You just NEG. Rep'd me. That's twice in the same month. I must not be living right or something.

p.s. It wasn't a NEG (RED), but a Neutral (Grey). Only -2 reps. I'll survive.


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## ClickClickBoom (Apr 27, 2011)

Sagetown said:


> You're Welcome, CCB:
> Ouch ! You just NEG. Rep'd me. That's twice in the same month. I must not be living right or something.
> 
> p.s. It wasn't a NEG (RED), but a Neutral (Grey). Only -2 reps. I'll survive.


 
Weird. Wonder if it's because I'm a new user or something? I chose positive rep.


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## Sagetown (Apr 27, 2011)

ClickClickBoom said:


> Weird. Wonder if it's because I'm a new user or something? I chose positive rep.


 
Could be, I don't know how they rate this stuff.


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## super3 (Apr 27, 2011)

ClickClickBoom said:


> Weird. Wonder if it's because I'm a new user or something? I chose positive rep.







You need 50 posts for rep to be pos or neg. Till then neutral.


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## Sagetown (Apr 27, 2011)

super3 said:


> You need 50 posts for rep to be pos or neg. Till then neutral.


 
Thanks super3. Is that info readily available on AS ? My searching hasn't revealed anything. 

Sage


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## SawTroll (Apr 27, 2011)

Sagetown said:


> Thanks super3. Is that info readily available on AS ? My searching hasn't revealed anything.
> 
> Sage



It has been posted lots of times, but I don't think the info is part of the "official" info on the site.....


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## Sagetown (Apr 27, 2011)

SawTroll said:


> It has been posted lots of times, but I don't think the info is part of the "official" info on the site.....


 
Kinda what I thought. General knowledge of the old and wise. The best means of info is from those who've been around awhile. An Old retireing Engineer told me that he'd forgotten more about his line of work than those coming up will ever learn. And after he left, they were definitely on a learning curve.:msp_ohmy::msp_w00t:


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## Philbert (Apr 28, 2011)

Ran across some bar and chain info files today that I will post as new threads for reference. But part of them touched on this thread, so I am posting that part here - a cross reference listing narrow kerf chain by manufacturer.

It shows that they sell their Woodland Pro narrow kerf chain in a non-low-kickback form, which I did not think was available.

Full chart is on Bailey's website at this link:
Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's

Philbert


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## ClickClickBoom (Jun 8, 2011)

I finally got some time to tackle some rounds with the new chain. They do seem to work quite a bit better than the factory chain. You can really feel the chain pull the saw through the wood instead of having to apply pressure.

It's cutting fast enough that I now have problems with the noodles clogging up the chain break. Need to stop every so often to pull them out of the saw.

The saw really is too small for as big a rounds as these are, but I'll make it through. A bigger bar/saw would really speed things up.

Thanks again for the advice.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## Terry Syd (Jun 8, 2011)

Just a note on the Woodland Pro NK chain. I took a look at the new Oregon 95VPX chain and its bumper link and compared it to the long raker of the Woodland Pro. It appeared that the WP would have just as much anti-kickback as the VPX. 

I ordered some Woodland Pro and then compared it on the bar as it went around the kickback area. IMO, the WP raker works as well as the bumper link on the VPX.


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## komatsuvarna (Jun 8, 2011)

On a narrow kerf bar, you can run narrow kerf chain or regular kerf chain, as long as its .325 and .050.

Ive ran the LPX and the VP on my 346, and I like the VP better all around. The LPX may shine in softwoods and such, but only thing I got more out of the LPX was more sharpening. The 95VP will last longer between sharpenings, and that makes the overall life of the chain longer....and in hardwoods you cant ''feel'' any difference between them in speed.

Thats my findings anyways, so its probably not worth much.:msp_rolleyes: What works for one may not for the other.


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