# Bucket truck pros and cons



## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

I would like to know pros and cons of this truck.
Thanks for any help. Basically, why
would you take a look at this truck? Why would you 
avoid this truck? Is this an acceptable starter tuck?

The add reads.

"1994 GMC Topkick Bucket truck with 62 ft WH Highranger, 59,000 miles, Under CDL, new PTO pump installed in 04. New tires, All maintenance records, Excellent Condition, Used Daily. "

The truck does not have an over center boom. I would like to hear anything and everything anyone has to say about this truck. The asking price is 22,000

Thanks for any thoughts and opinions.


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## BC WetCoast (Dec 6, 2007)

A couple of small things to think about over and above the obvious engine/tranny etc.

Has the boom been dielectrically tested? Any cracks in the boom? What kind of shape are the hydraulic hoses and boom controls?


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*thanks*

I think i should have it tested, good heads up, there was an accident here a month ago where a guy was killed on the ground when he touched the truck that was not correctly grounded or tested and or up to date. Definately will be looking closer into the hydraulics. Thanks, feed more questions and thoughts about what is good and bad about this truck. I am most likely going to end up with it. Is this a good/ok/bad set up for tree work? Does anyone know even though this boom is not over center can the upper boom be extended over the cab and then swing the lower boom around to acheive the same reach as an over center? Does this boom style have an advantage/disadvantage in any way? thanks keep em comming!


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## hornett22 (Dec 6, 2007)

*awesome truck if all is in order.*

i hate forestry packages for residential tree work but some guys like them.i'd ask to have it inspected if it recently was not.the boom and the truck.whether it's under CDL or not the staties are gonna look at you after the 2nd Avon mountain crash.they look bad for not doing anything after the first one so they are out to cover their a$$ this time.


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*thanks*

I like the crude drawing, lol. Although i was hoping that it would be able to open all the way up flat over the cab first then rotate all the way around 180 degrees back towards the work area assuming backing into the tree. In addition 360 would be nice. Is 360 rotation attainable? It seems like this might be a lame way to go if the crude drawing is in fact basically the booms range. Any one say this is really a bad choice? I Agree 100% on the Avon mountain thing btw...urrghhh. 100 dollar deposit is nothing to lose at this point?


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## hornett22 (Dec 6, 2007)

*i don't think you will regret buying that at all.*

that is a good price if it passes inspection.i'm sure it has the 366 engine.they are pretty solid.i work on them from time to time.usually just maintenance.the under cdl trucks are hard to find around here.glad t o see you found one.we had no luck.


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*under cdl*

yeah about the whole under cdl thing, i am almost 100% sure that the truck is technically a cdl truck. The seller is claiming a 18,000 empty weight and a 25,000 gross weight. He had a spring company put a sticker on the truck changing it's GVRW, claiming they weighed in on a scale to make these calculations. He also said he was pulled over by the DMV and they said everything was legit and fine. I had the DMV run the vin and they said it is currently in the system as an uncomplete and what ever sticker the final stage manufacturer had on it is what will classify it. Allthough in reality i believe it to be the tires/axles and suspension that determines if a truck is CDL. If a place is NHTSA certified as a repair shop they can modify GVRW in CT. I talked to such a shop and pretty much the rule of thumb is they can only add to build a truck stronger not detract to lower a trucks GVRW because it changes the safety of the actual truck. Like i wanted to derate the springs in my INT S1900 to bring it down from thirtyone thousand to twenty six. Not going to happen by a NHTSA repair shop. I found out this info from a guy at liberty tank in east hartford, the only guy that actually seemed to know what he was talking about. food for thought. so cdl or not is this a good truck? lol need more opinions please.


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*ohh yeah*

one other thing...
been to hell i spell it, spell it d,m,v. any one who's been there knows exactly what i mean. :monkey:


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## Treetom (Dec 6, 2007)

*Air brakes?*

Does this truck have air brakes? Some states still require a Commercial Driver's License, even with the "under cdl" weight classification.


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

Treetom said:


> Does this truck have air brakes? Some states still require a Commercial Driver's License, even with the "under cdl" weight classification.


Not true may have to have air brake endorsement though.
I have the same boom 52pbi they are good a few areas of
concern and thing to remember!
1 where the upper boom sets in the rest make sure it has rubber
on the rest and that you always lock the boom down before roading.
2inspect the boom where it contacts that rest and see if a repair
has been made underneath side of boom! Or if a hole is developed.
3make sure the holdback cable is wired in lower sheath.
4make sure all cables and load lines are in working order and inspect
sheaths to make sure the plastic inserts are there and not wore through!
5Grease all serts on at least a weekly basis and oil compensating chain
when necessary!
6Make sure deadman microswitch is in working order and very very important
make sure it has a manual shut off switch to the dead man for roading
as stored pressure and deadman engaging will cause it to climb out of
its rest while going down the road!
7The large attachment pins in the lower boom that attach the cylinders
have snap rings that hold them in make sure the snap rings are in place
both side of pins!
8 there are more but these are some of the worst


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## oldirty (Dec 6, 2007)

the way i see things is like this for a bucket truck. if i cant go over center then its not a tree truck its an electrical company truck or whoever is getting into the wires.

you need to be able to go anywhere when your in the bucket and in any direction. 

i think you might find yourself having to climb out of the bucket because you wont be able to reach what you need to cut. 




oldirty


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

oldirty said:


> the way i see things is like this for a bucket truck. if i cant go over center then its not a tree truck its an electrical company truck or whoever is getting into the wires.
> 
> you need to be able to go anywhere when your in the bucket and in any direction.
> 
> ...


 Not real sure what you mean here, I work this kind of truck
for trees and reach just fine. I have run over center trucks and the main
advantage is reach straight out and the ability to L under the powerlines
although not a recommended practice. I have not seen much in the
tree work that I can't do in a high ranger but an elevator would be nice
a little more height always helps but over center does not give that and
elevator does.


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## oldirty (Dec 6, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> Not real sure what you mean here, I work this kind of truck
> for trees and reach just fine. I have run over center trucks and the main
> advantage is reach straight out and the ability to L under the powerlines
> although not a recommended practice. I have not seen much in the
> ...



i didnt see the picture of the truck until i read your post. didnt realize she was rearmount. i was thinking it was centermount. 

not being able to go over center means not being able to continuously rotate right? what i was trying to say was that if you cant go around then you are going to run into trouble if you need to get over the cab right? you are going to have park the truck in such manner that allows you to get at your work right? 

hey i could be dead wrong, and have been in the past, but i know my lack of terminology is killing me in what i am trying to say here. 

the type of truck i was thinkn of would be run by the local power company.

a guy i used to work for had one and it was a PIA because i really couldnt do too much unless put in the perfect position to work. 

oh well


oldirty


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## lync (Dec 6, 2007)

The fact that its a rear mount will help with the lack of over center booms. 
You may have to move the truck during a pruning or take down. A new aeriel lift of Conn. is over 125 K. i suggest you put lift boom over boom straight up and rock lower boom while someone else looks for movment at the turret, pins and bushings. If its mechanically sound it will pay for itself in no time.
Good luck.

Corey


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

TreeCo said:


> A lot of booms that don't go over center have 360 degree rotation. The two functions are not related.
> 
> On some of the newer better booms both the lower and upper booms go over center. The get a lot better side reach.
> 
> ...


+1 he must have been thinking of non continuous units but even those
can do ok just need to set up proper!

Under cut you will like the flatbed easy to back and much
lighter in yards than my utility body but I can lock and store
my gear does it have a pto winch?


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*great info*

Can anyone comment on Tree Co's crude drawing? Everyone agree that is the functionaly of the boom? definately 52pbi? I was wondering if it could also be opened up the opposite way inorder to get full reach of the boom. I know it would not be able to put the bucket on the ground this way but it could still get the max reach horizontaly.????? or in other words lifted up a little off the cradle then turned around 180 degrees on the base then put the top boom over 180 so it could go straight back? -----------------> kinda like my cruder drawing?...


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

undercut said:


> Can anyone comment on Tree Co's crude drawing? Everyone agree that is the functionaly of the boom? definately 52pbi? I was wondering if it could also be opened up the opposite way inorder to get full reach of the boom. I know it would not be able to put the bucket on the ground this way but it could still get the max reach horizontaly.????? or in other words lifted up a little off the cradle then turned around 180 degrees on the base then put the top boom over 180 so it could go straight back? -----------------> kinda like my cruder drawing?...



No it will not go all the way over straight out but big deal it will go
high and with a little practice you will learn to set it up and will get most
trees done in one set up.
A little different than both drawings if I knew how to do a drawing
I could show the manuvers.
The lower boom comes over a little more than 90 like 100 degrees
and the upper does not go straight up and if it did you would be in serious trouble!


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## juststumps (Dec 6, 2007)

TreeCo said:


> It will not have the side reach that an over the center boom would have.
> 
> I suspect the boom you are looking at will move in the directions shown in my crude drawing.



hey, thats better than some of the owners manuals, i have read!!!!


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## juststumps (Dec 6, 2007)

undercut said:


> I like the crude drawing, lol. Although i was hoping that it would be able to open all the way up flat over the cab first then rotate all the way around 180 degrees back towards the work area assuming backing into the tree. In addition 360 would be nice. Is 360 rotation attainable? It seems like this might be a lame way to go if the crude drawing is in fact basically the booms range. Any one say this is really a bad choice? I Agree 100% on the Avon mountain thing btw...urrghhh. 100 dollar deposit is nothing to lose at this point?



most newer units go 360....

what are you trying to accomplish by flipping the boom over the cab????

i run a 65' hi ranger, on a gmc (izuzu) cab over forestry package...

had to flip the boom today,, you gain some reach, but sacrifice hieght.

the controls work in reverse,, so you really don't save any time, because you are always trying to figure out if " up is up, or is up down,,, goes for left right also .."

i wish i had a rear mount boom,, just back up to the tree,,, utilize the whole range of the boom,, i have to reach over 8 foot of truck if i nose up to a tree... and worry about dropping stuff on the cab...

and for a last note,, i wouldn't run the boom flipped over off the side of the truck... had the out rigger pick up in normal mode a few times....


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

ok this is full reach position on the 52pbI


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*hmm*

anyone know if i can get a manual or load/range chart for this boom on line?


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

undercut said:


> anyone know if i can get a manual or load/range chart for this boom on line?



I have repair and maintenance manual but they are hard to come by
try to see if you have a terex dealer near you they bought out
combatel here and now control parts and such.
As far as load it should be rated four hundred pounds as mine
this is my truck


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

i was not really trying to accomplish anything by going over the cab
i was just wondering if i could do a 180 with the whole thing then raise the upper boom up 90 and then back down 90 to have it stick the full boom lenght straight back horizontally never even raising the lower boom except to get it off the cradle so i could reach like this if i had to.
then i could work with more reach i have a feeling this is not possible with this style.
see lame drawing.


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## NORTREE (Dec 6, 2007)

That looks like a 6TDI-PBI unit.Some of these have 360 degree roatation some don't.The booms will not stand straight up nor will they lay out flat horizotally.I have a 6TDI-65PBI unit with 70' of working height and LOVE it!!The 6TDI units have a sealed upper boom for better dielectric cababilities.Look at the picture you posted,see the little circle on the upper boom just past the knuckle?Thats filled with dessicant crystals.They absorb moisture in the boom.If they are blue-good.If they are pink then you unscew the canister dump the crystals on a cookie sheet and bake them in the oven at 350 degress until they dry out and turn blue again(don't do this when your wife/girlfriend is home) and put them back in.This because these were the original EHV(Electrical High Voltage) Hi-Ranger designs.Keep in mind that dielectric testing is only good right at the time it's done,if the boom gets dirty driving down the road then it can conduct electricity!!!Proper EHAP training is mandatory for a reason!!!If you and your crew are not properly trained the follow the Z133 guide lines for approach distances whether it be a phone/cable or high voltage line!Most of my work is residential removals and this type of rig is awesome for this work.Your maximum working height is away from the truck.With an over center unit your maximum height is above the truck and the truck has to be directly under the work area.What type of tree work are you looking to do with this truck?Removals or line clearance type stuff?A great asset is that it has been converted to a side hung basket verses that damn awful wrap around 2 man basket(I have both setups for my Hi-Ranger and it only takes about 20 minutes to swap them around).As far as gas verus diesel...my experience is it will cost as much in a day or so in gas as to a week in diesel!Of course when it comes to parts or replacement engines then usually gas is cheaper(and I have yet to have to replace one of my diesel engines but several gas engines).Personally I think these are super units for the type of tree work I do.If you do mre road side/line clearance stuff then get an over center unit.Hi-Ranger is super on parts availability and they stand behind their product!If you have a 1960's vintage Hi-Ranger they will have the parts for it.Try that with an Asplundh or Baker boom!They will tell you to cut it up!!If you check the serial number for that tower I think you will find its a 70's vintage tower on a newer cab and chassis.In New England cal CUES and have them inspect the boom for you.Sorry for the long post but trying to answer your question.


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

juststumps said:


> most newer units go 360....
> 
> what are you trying to accomplish by flipping the boom over the cab????
> 
> ...


Fix the outrigger would be my suggestion I work off the side all the time
or at least when the rear is hard to achieve.


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*hmm*

can you lift more than 400 if your just using the lower boom mainly? could you weld a material hook on there? that just sounds like a bad idea? lol i don't think i would ever try this just wondering if anyone has or has thought about it. looks like it could lift 2000 easy.


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*post away*

long posts are good thanks for all the info nortree. so far i have been avoiding power line work and just focusing on removals but most people have a issue with trees near lines that is one reason i thought this would be a nice rig. i was hoping i could get by with this as an all around set up. i am gonna go warm up the oven lol.. in a dream world i want a teupen spider lift and a nice little truck for power lines. then trade in all three stumpers for a high powered self propelled and a high powered tow behind. all wheel steer bobcat, ohh yeah and one of those effer knuckleboom remote control jobs like mark has, that guy is sick.


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*interesting*

that is always good to know you could always boom out peices 400lbs if you had to if you stay on the tree and keep it tight. with the shock load keeping at 100 might be safer lol? are there ground controls typically could you hop out slide down rig have some one boom up tension carefully cut and boom to a work area?


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## NORTREE (Dec 6, 2007)

Going back and re-reading some of the other posts I see some folks are thinking this is the same as most 52PBI units.Assumming these are the typical 5H-52PBI or 5FPBI units then NO it it is a totally different unit.First off the boom is much heavier!The standard 52PBI units have smaller booms with ONE lift cable for the upper boom and the 6TDI series will have TWO lift cables as the booms are bigger and heavier.Also the smalle units were a deck mount with 2 outriggers vs the 6TDI series which had a chassis mounted subframe and 4 outriggers.The 52PBI units usually will have a compensating chain at the lower boom pivot whereas a 6TDI unit will have link rods attached at the lower boom.As far as manuals call Dueco http://www.dueco.com/ they will be your NUMBER 1 dealer for parts and service.I do have numerous Hi-Ranger manuals for different models and they are EXTREMLEY helpful!!
As far as the standard 52PBI units they are SUPER rigs!!!Light weight and can be manuevered into some tight yards.I believe these on units the lower boom goes 15 degrees over center and the 6TDI series only goes 5 degrees over center.I believe both upper booms go to 65 degrees(without looking it up).
If you want a rig with the articulation you are describing and since you live in New England go with an Aerial Lift of Connecticut unit.They are super rigs and they stand behind their product just as good as Hi-Ranger!!


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

undercut said:


> that is always good to know you could always boom out peices 400lbs if you had to if you stay on the tree and keep it tight. with the shock load keeping at 100 might be safer lol? are there ground controls typically could you hop out slide down rig have some one boom up tension carefully cut and boom to a work area?



Easy there the four hundred rating is not for using as a crane
even if you could what I do is snap cut a chunk shut saw off
and put in scabbord then get chunk setting on edge of bucket
and rotate to drop zone! Be careful as the boom supports you
and will for a long time if used proper!


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## ropensaddle (Dec 6, 2007)

NORTREE said:


> Going back and re-reading some of the other posts I see some folks are thinking this is the same as most 52PBI units.Assumming these are the typical 5H-52PBI or 5FPBI units then NO it it is a totally different unit.First off the boom is much heavier!The standard 52PBI units have smaller booms with ONE lift cable for the upper boom and the 6TDI series will have TWO lift cables as the booms are bigger and heavier.Also the smalle units were a deck mount with 2 outriggers vs the 6TDI series which had a chassis mounted subframe and 4 outriggers.The 52PBI units usually will have a compensating chain at the lower boom pivot whereas a 6TDI unit will have link rods attached at the lower boom.As far as manuals call Dueco http://www.dueco.com/ they will be your NUMBER 1 dealer for parts and service.I do have numerous Hi-Ranger manuals for different models and they are EXTREMLEY helpful!!
> As far as the standard 52PBI units they are SUPER rigs!!!Light weight and can be manuevered into some tight yards.I believe these on units the lower boom goes 15 degrees over center and the 6TDI series only goes 5 degrees over center.I believe both upper booms go to 65 degrees(without looking it up).
> If you want a rig with the articulation you are describing and since you live in New England go with an Aerial Lift of Connecticut unit.They are super rigs and they stand behind their product just as good as Hi-Ranger!!


Yes you are correct in most of this mine is 52pbI and has a noisy
compensating chain as a lot of them I have ran I have oiled sprayed
chain and cable lube and everythig I can think of wont get quiet
and thanks for that link!


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## undercut (Dec 6, 2007)

*hey*

so should i be worried that there are not to many people to service a high rangers in the hartford ct area? I suppose that might be important as to going home with this truck. it does have 4 out riggers. that makes it a 6 series?


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## NORTREE (Dec 6, 2007)

undercut said:


> that is always good to know you could always boom out peices 400lbs if you had to if you stay on the tree and keep it tight. with the shock load keeping at 100 might be safer lol? are there ground controls typically could you hop out slide down rig have some one boom up tension carefully cut and boom to a work area?


 BUCKET TRUCKS ARE NOT CRANES!!!!!ABSOLUTLEY NO SHOCK LOADING OR LIFTING!!!There are some units designed as material handlers with lifting jibs but these are not for tree work!A crane is a crane and a bucket is a buck!I have both and use each accordingly.
I don't know what your tree work experience or background is but I am going to recommend something right now that might save you or your employees their lives.Go to ACRTs website http://www.acrtinc.com/ACRT_training.html call Lois and sign up to take some of their week long classes.They offer line clearance certification and basic and advanced arborist classes.In the advance class you get to do crane removals.It is worth the drive and money spent!!These are AWESOME training classes!You can PM me or call me and I can go into much better detail on their programs and my experience with them.I'll be headed back to ACRT for the umpteenth time again in '08,maybe some of us New Englanders can meet and carpool out.
Since most of your work is residential rmovals then that will be a great unit for you(as long as its in decent working shape) but DON"T TIE ANYTHING TO THE BOOMS!!!


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## NORTREE (Dec 6, 2007)

undercut said:


> so should i be worried that there are not to many people to service a high rangers in the hartford ct area? I suppose that might be important as to going home with this truck. it does have 4 out riggers. that makes it a 6 series?


 CUES will come to you and do repairs and inspections(both mechanical and or dielectric testing).They are out of New Hampshire. http://www.cuesequip.com/ 
Some of the earlier small units also had for out riggers but they are not what you pictured.Call and get the model and serial numbers.


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## ropensaddle (Dec 7, 2007)

I went back and deleted the post about lower boom lifting chunks
as I told him I did not recommend the practice and don't want anyone to get the wrong idea that it is a crane.


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## undercut (Dec 7, 2007)

*no boom tieing*

LOL- you got me. I am always up for learning. I am always pushing my imagination. We are on the same page here, i won't be using the bucket as a crane. i was just wondering hypothetically if it might be possible with itty bitty loads. thanks for looking out. I most definately need line clearing training i know you can never learn to much and am the first to admit i do not know everything. I always thought you could take little pieces into the bucket if need be? my ideas are not always ingenious lol.. thanks again for looking out!


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## ropensaddle (Dec 7, 2007)

nortree do you have any ideas on compensating noise
I may have to take it off and lube the rollers with a needle
greaser or something but would like them quiet!


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## hornett22 (Dec 7, 2007)

*CT requires cdl for air brakes.*



Treetom said:


> Does this truck have air brakes? Some states still require a Commercial Driver's License, even with the "under cdl" weight classification.



they are probably one of t he strictest states now.


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## hornett22 (Dec 7, 2007)

*for the money,i'd grab it.*

if inspection goes through.


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## undercut (Dec 7, 2007)

*hmm*

are you talking about a boom safety inspection or a dmv inspection or both?


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## ropensaddle (Dec 7, 2007)

undercut said:


> are you talking about a boom safety inspection or a dmv inspection or both?



Just got back in used mine today about twenty trims raised
limbs for customer he wanted them a little higher than I usually
like to raise them but wants his grass to grow! Anyway they
looked nice had neighbors wanting me over to there place so
here we go again lol.


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## juststumps (Dec 7, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> Fix the outrigger would be my suggestion I work off the side all the time
> or at least when the rear is hard to achieve.



don't have an out rigger problem...... only 2 out riggers on my truck... work off the side all the time,,, lower boom goes over center...happens sometimes when the chip box is empty,,, the out rigger opposite the side im working off will sart to float a few inches while moving the boom all the way out.. would never work off the side of the truck with the boom flipped...


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## ropensaddle (Dec 8, 2007)

juststumps said:


> don't have an out rigger problem...... only 2 out riggers on my truck... work off the side all the time,,, lower boom goes over center...happens sometimes when the chip box is empty,,, the out rigger opposite the side im working off will sart to float a few inches while moving the boom all the way out.. would never work off the side of the truck with the boom flipped...



Only two on my truck as well and yes they sometimes float
a little I usually stiff the working side a little extra but have 
never seen an upset by what you are describing. I don't
like the float either though!


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## JimL (Dec 8, 2007)

juststumps said:


> don't have an out rigger problem...... only 2 out riggers on my truck... work off the side all the time,,, lower boom goes over center...happens sometimes when the chip box is empty,,, the out rigger opposite the side im working off will sart to float a few inches while moving the boom all the way out.. would never work off the side of the truck with the boom flipped...



I work over the side with the boom flipped everyday just about. Gain a couple feet of side reach down low that way, up high you loose it being flipped over. I work at full extention over the side of the truck all the time. sometimes it gets a little bouncy but not too bad, had it worse working over the front or back. only 2 jacks on our trucks.


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## juststumps (Dec 8, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> Only two on my truck as well and yes they sometimes float
> a little I usually stiff the working side a little extra but have
> never seen an upset by what you are describing. I don't
> like the float either though!



usally only happens when the chip box is empty.. come back down and do the same thing,,, jack the one side of the truck up higher...

never seen one upend,, rather not be the one to try it.

used to do a lot of high voltage work... all those trucks had 4 riggers,, and had to be set level...bigest was a ALTEC HL125

float makes me edgy,, sinking is worse,, was going up in a basket on the end of a 130 foot boom truck,,, up,up, all of the sudden down down... look down to the operator,, whats going on??? he points to the front rigger.. sunk 2 foot down with pads under it... ok,, lets get down (quick)


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## ropensaddle (Dec 8, 2007)

juststumps said:


> usally only happens when the chip box is empty.. come back down and do the same thing,,, jack the one side of the truck up higher...
> 
> never seen one upend,, rather not be the one to try it.
> 
> ...



Yeah getting down would be my response as well however I
left my crew one day and these guys were not green they had
been in the biz a while! 
Came back from getting work orders to see them full to the side
with no outriggers down they had been working it that way for
the setup. I get out and see the truck looked funny and then I 
seen why and hollered and was scared and mad. These or most
buckets are designed to hold the forces of boom support by truck
weight but if a spring had broke it would have been bad I wrote the 
incident up and they had been taught the right way to set up each
thought the other set the riggers I asked them why the did not notice 
the shake and they said I don't know! I did not let them trim while I was away for a great while they were three year men then.


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## juststumps (Dec 9, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> Yeah getting down would be my response as well however I
> left my crew one day and these guys were not green they had
> been in the biz a while!
> Came back from getting work orders to see them full to the side
> ...



MY RULE NO1: i fly the thing,, i set the truck up...get some helpful helpers,,that don't have a clue....they like pulling levers,, they think they are helping,,i'm like " don't touch my truck"


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## ropensaddle (Dec 9, 2007)

juststumps said:


> MY RULE NO1: i fly the thing,, i set the truck up...get some helpful helpers,,that don't have a clue....they like pulling levers,, they think they are helping,,i'm like " don't touch my truck"



No one touches mine either but I was a foreman on clearance crew
when this happened and they wanted me to teach not trim they
want you to give them your replacements. I have since got out of
that and work for myself and work my own truck. These guys knew
what to do and were good trimmers they just had a dumb blond
moment as we all have had!


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## NORTREE (Dec 10, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> nortree do you have any ideas on compensating noise
> I may have to take it off and lube the rollers with a needle
> greaser or something but would like them quiet!



From one of my Hi-Ranger manuals "If the chain becomes dry internally,as evidenced by noisy operation when lower boom is moved,apply penetrating oil,such as Whitmore's open chain lubricant at the ends of the rollers"


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## juststumps (Dec 11, 2007)

ropensaddle said:


> nortree do you have any ideas on compensating noise
> I may have to take it off and lube the rollers with a needle
> greaser or something but would like them quiet!



rope, missed this first time thru...maybe will help...

started 2 1/2 yrs ago this gig....tell the boss " hey this aint right,,, bucket jerks" the JERK i work with is of the mind set,,, so it jerks,, its always jerked !!!

boss calls HI-RANGER,,, guy tells him it need to be lubed,, (no grease fitting where the bucket pivot meets the upper boom) spray WD 40 on the shaft...so we spray,, like thats going to help , the guy i work with is from south texas real south about 2000 miles south hard worker but an idiot !!!

annual boom inspection,,10 issues...2 of the 10,, inspector says "bucket jerks, and there is chain slapping in the lower boom.. i won't red tag it,, but it needs to be fixed...

boss calls some more,,,gets a guy that say the chains are out of adjustment,,and the bucket jerking is called (ratcheting) caused by the chains being out... we now have an offical name for it

guy says he has to pull everything out of the boom,,, measure every thing for spec.including measuring every link on the chains.. if it all in spec,, re 
assemble,, and adjust.. $1800.....if the chain is worn,, add price of chain...

or just rip the guts out and put in new chain and adjust for $2500

boss is going for the $2500 our truck is an 2000,, guy said on a hi-ranger it should be done every 5 years,, we're going on 8


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## undercut (Dec 11, 2007)

*interesting*

yeah so knowing the cost to keep equipment up is not a bad idea. what do you guys think it cost a year to keep a high ranger running safely on average?


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## juststumps (Dec 12, 2007)

undercut said:


> yeah so knowing the cost to keep equipment up is not a bad idea. what do you guys think it cost a year to keep a high ranger running safely on average?



i don't deal with the money end of the biz,, but if the thing is making money for you ,, you have to set some aside...

the two things that the inspector cited,,, chain slap and bucket jerking =$2500... over 8 years that aint bad

the other 2 things that failed,, were nicks and dings on the fiberglass on the boom and the bucket.... guy doing the chain said "i can do it for a lot more money,, or just go to a marine supply house,, get some gel coat and do the glass work your self"

the reast of the stuff was,,
loose bolt (tighten bolt)
faded decals (buy decal set)
no grease on the out riggers ( throw some grease on them)
no capacity lable on the bucket ( buy label)
cut side wall on a tire ( nothing wrong with tire )
missing bolt on the frame (replace bolt)

all piss ant stuff....

i don't know what the inspection cost,, but it was 2 guys all day....

they went over the whole truck top to bottom... dielectric test,, leakage test on all the cylinders,, etc... probably isn't cheap... yearly thing

but in the long run,, throwing a few grand into maintaining your rig, every year,, probably is a good idea...


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## undercut (Dec 22, 2007)

*6tdi-pbi*

i found out that it was built in 1976. I have a few questions

Which way should the round valve thing that makes the bucket rigid be in operation and in stow away (it is to the right next to the bucket control on the upper boom if i am remembering correctly.

is it ok if there is a little fluid leaking from that area? is it normal or should it be fixed immeadiatly?

should i have to idle the truck up to run the boom or can i just leave it at an idle?

I was testing it today and it didn't really come alive until i idled it up a little, when it was dropped off we were operating it at an idle fine. 

Is checking the cables and easy proceedure like taking all the plates off and inspecting with a flash light?

Is there anyone that is close in ct or mass that will come inspect it? dueco will inspect it, i guess they are in boston but they want me to take the truck there and then there is cues in new hampshire. I figure they will charge more for the drive but it might be worth it. I would like more local if possible. 

thanks for any info


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## undercut (Dec 22, 2007)

*missed cues other location*

i just noticed the north frankling location on cues website. i think i will try that. i wouldn't mind taking the truck over there since it is only 45 mins or so away. fewwwwwwww


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## undercut (Jan 18, 2008)

*got plates*

Truck is on the road, registered and inspected under cdl  If you see me taking a corner stay behind the white line.... I was so nervous at the dmv as far as inspection. It was tricky getting the temp plates. They wanted tax numbers and little misc crap that sent me going back and fourth. I was ready to have a blinker fail or weighted out on the scale. the funny thing is i talked to the inspector so long about tree work that fifteen minutes later i think he felt bad that we held up the line. He gave me the slip and said i was all set. I was like so what do i do? pull in the garage? he said no, your all set go register it. keeping a straight face (jumping up and down in my head) good thing the truck looking clean. next I went to pay for the plates and i filled out my check in correctly. I thought it was all over since i brought one check (dooohhht!) So anyway, i said what can we do white it out, cross it out and i can initial it. They insisted that i need a new check. I said i wish you guys took credit cards. Then to my surprise she said "today is our first day accepting credit cards". At this point my mind was blown. Walk through inspection. f-up my only check, then put it on a credit card. I should have bought a lotto ticket.


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## hornett22 (Jan 19, 2008)

*man you did get lucky.*

i hope you went to Mohegan afterward.


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## undercut (Apr 22, 2008)

*main mast bearing*

what is involved in replacing the main mast bearing on a high ranger 6 tdi boom?


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## NORTREE (Apr 22, 2008)

Are you reffering to the bearings in the turntable for rotation? I thought mine were bad several years back and had a tech guy from CUES take a look at it. He pulled the cover from the turrett and had me lift the boom out of the cradle and rock it bak and forth and had a smirk on his face and told me to watch the gearbox as he did it...the gearbox was LOOSE! He said that was common on Hi-Rangers and he cut the "safety wires", tightened the bolts, re "safety wired" it and it was fine. If you actually need to replace the bearings then I would think that would be a big job as you would need to be able to raies the boom assembly off the turrett. I believe the manual does tell how to do it.


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## hornett224 (Apr 22, 2008)

*i belive it's a bunch of steel dowels.*

cut to length and laying in a round tray.that is how the one i looked at was,i don't remeber if it was a high ranger.i'd check the gear box first as well.


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## undercut (Apr 23, 2008)

*interesting*

thanks for the info guys...
do you think it is possible to get the manual?
sounds like your man knows what he is doing nortree.. you think there is a way you can get the guys name and number for me? i would be interested in his opinion.


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