# Different method of falling a tree



## FSburt (Jan 10, 2007)

While working on the Boundary Fire in Yosemite NP this summer had the opportunity to do some falling with fire to get some trees down. This method is used on fires to get a really bad trees down. :angry2:


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## FSburt (Jan 10, 2007)

*More pics*

here's more


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## FSburt (Jan 10, 2007)

For those that wonder what kind of trees Fireline fallers usually have to deal with.


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## smokechase II (Jan 10, 2007)

*Northwest Timber Fallers*

http://www.nwtimberfallers.com/

http://www.fallerstudy.com/

http://www.cdc.gov/nasd/docs/d001801-d001900/d001838/d001838.html

Related sites to Burts Fire Falling


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## JamesJems (Jan 10, 2007)

*Whoa....that's really weird.*



FSburt said:


> While working on the Boundary Fire in Yosemite NP this summer had the opportunity to do some falling with fire to get some trees down. This method is used on fires to get a really bad trees down. :angry2:



Whoa. That's really weird. Explain. What do you mean, "really bad trees." What could necessitate that particular technique? Wouldn't a faller lose control? Wha....wha....???

Bizarre.

James:jawdrop:


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## rmihalek (Jan 10, 2007)

I certainly wouldn't want to be standing around the base of a burning tree cutting all those windows into it!


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## smokechase II (Jan 10, 2007)

*It can be the safe way.*

It's like anything else.

Judgment.

Looking at Burt’s tree, first photo, with it still standing.
Looks reasonably solid. My concern would be hazards up high that are either burning or where it has burned recently.

There is obviously very very little or no control with this type of falling.


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## John Ellison (Jan 15, 2007)

Is that for a delayed fall, so you could be completly in the clear?


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## smokechase II (Jan 15, 2007)

*delay*

Yes.
The cuts open up air flow.
Maybe a few pitchy limbs get shoved in to add to the fire.

Maybe a mini face gets placed on the downhill side.

Then you wait for the fire to do the final release.

Guarding the general area.


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## Davey Dog (Jan 20, 2007)

I havent seen this type of fall personaly, but would definatly be interested in seeingt it first hand. I can remember a few times where this could have made things a lot safer over all... We have alot of fire control here though and I dont know if this method of falling is something that would be allowed. Maybe if it was done by CDF. But I highly doubt that we would be allowed to do this ourselves...
Interesting pics though, thank you for sharing....


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## FSburt (Jan 20, 2007)

Hey fellas this method is used on trees that are just way too dangerous to spend alot of time getting an undercut and backcut in and the only objective is to get the tree on the ground. We usually do this at the end of a shift when there will be no one on the line and it will fall at night. As far as cutting air holes into the tree if it can be done quickly and safely the aid the tree buring down quicker than we will do but sometimes we just pile a huge amount of logs and slash up against the base and get it really hot. The picture I sent is a green WWP that was burning up inside a catface and we were trying to minimize saw cuts since we were in the Yosemite NP and were up above El Capitan. Saw cuts are the hardest thing to hide when doing rehab on wilderness fires. This tree had a slight lean in the direction it fell into so we made the leg on that side the weakest and made sure that the fire burned hottest against that leg. Kinda like a undercut just weakened that lean side first. Pretty exciting at it slowwly started popping and creaking before falling. We had to do this on another tree that had major cracks and heavy head lean which we felt that it would barberchair even using a boring backcut. So we did the same thing and piled in a bunch of wood and burned it down. Took about 1 hour but it came down and the hazard was mitigated. As far is doing this on a CDF fire i have not seen it done because they usually use their dozers to come over and push them over. Now a 8-12 ft DBH redwood the skys the limit on that one.


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## FSburt (Jan 20, 2007)

here's a pic that shows the kind of tree we would burn down if it had to be put on the ground for safety reasons.


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## Big A (Jan 26, 2007)

Interesting technique, we used to have an old fashioned steeple-jack called Fred Dibnah, he used to fell old factory chimneys with a similar style. Carefully removing the brickwork, putting in wooden props, then light a large fire, and it was a very controlled style.


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## soutz (Jan 26, 2007)

wooooo! love to see that up close and personal. awesome! clever technique


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## Big A (Feb 11, 2007)

Not wishing to de-rail this thread, but it is slightly relevant. http://uktv.co.uk/index.cfm/uktv/History.item/aid/527968 sorry couldnt find any vid of this, but recall seeing it done on tv.


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## tek9tim (Feb 13, 2007)

Kinda funny what you get used to. It's weird people haven't heard of this. Then again, most people have no idea what it's really like on fires. I like the mentality of the tree not needing to be down immediately if to fell it would be more of a hazard. Another thing to remember is that softwoods that diameter have a healthy lean to them. You know which way it's going, you just have to help it free itself from the stump. It's not like you have no idea what it's going to do.


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## neighborstree (Feb 13, 2007)

that lookslike it would be to much fun! i get bored of the same thing every day. i get so excited when i pull a nice planting job or soemthing out of the lines of take downs every day. but that would definatly get my blood pumpin


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## smokechase II (Feb 13, 2007)

*heated work space*

I didn't say you could do this.

But if you're in an area where there couldn't be a wildland fire right now, snow is over a foot in depth and you have permission for a warming fire. Perhaps that warming fire could be made where it encouraged a tree to go over. Some might even copy Burt’s technique.

Again, there is no reason for anyone to actually do this other than on a fire.

Maybe an area 2 tree lengths is secured and you are ready for it to take a day longer to burn through than you planned. Plus you have thought this out and are ready for suppression action if it gets into the roots and lingers there for a month or more. If it dries out you know who prevents forest fires. It is not Only Me. It is *ONLY YOU* !

Do you have the discipline to not go up to the base and start cutting again after it has burned for awhile and is at its peak danger? 
As a pro arborist, did you set up a rope/cable beforehand to encourage its fall, both directionally some and time wise?

Of course, if any fire gets away and does any damage or a local fire department is called and puts it out. You pay the fees for your actions.

Accountability.


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