Electric Chain Saw Sharpeners pros and cons please
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mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
Con -- they cost money 
Con -- you have to learn to set them up and use them correctly, and it may take a while. You have to be able to read and follow directions, and the directions are typically not all that great. Don't expect to make perfect chains right off the bat.
Pro -- fast and consistent.
Con -- you have to learn to set them up and use them correctly, and it may take a while. You have to be able to read and follow directions, and the directions are typically not all that great. Don't expect to make perfect chains right off the bat.
Pro -- fast and consistent.
smilin possum
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey Pal,
I got 2 of um and they sit in the cabinet most of the time. I use ours if I seriously rock out a chain. I don't like to have to take the chain off all the time to sharpen them. I hand file all of ours at 25 degs. I can file one by hands as quick as I can get it ready and grind. If you get it to hot grinding it and have to sharpen it in the woods with a file they are hard as a rock. I just don't like um.
I got 2 of um and they sit in the cabinet most of the time. I use ours if I seriously rock out a chain. I don't like to have to take the chain off all the time to sharpen them. I hand file all of ours at 25 degs. I can file one by hands as quick as I can get it ready and grind. If you get it to hot grinding it and have to sharpen it in the woods with a file they are hard as a rock. I just don't like um.
Yep - Me too.
Yep.
Yep - trick with chains is never to let them go too far. Then all it takes is a quick touch up like this.
see
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWwLEuY5Iao
42" bar chains take me ~5 mins, 60" bar chains 7 minutes.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
As mentioned grinders are excellent "if" you know how to use them properly. It also depends what you're cutting and how quick you are bluntening/wrecking chains. If I'm wearing chains out in 10 minutes on filthy, old, dead, termite infested hardwood (it happens!) then I tend to swap chains out and grind when I get home. However if you only need to sharpen 3 or 4 times a day then by all means whip out a file - I have been lately because when I get home I can't be stuffed grinding chains. I do tend to grind my chains after about 10 filings. They're not too bad but do get the odd inconsistent cutter lengths. Angles always seem to be OK.
In saying that, and I've mentioned it numerous times before, some people just can't file properly despite thinking they can and as always in life some people can't be taught (people like this exist, I've worked with them ) or don't want to learn. I have a mate who is very handy and quick to work things out but has bought a grinder because he can't file very well, does a lot of firewood cutting, and with two young kids who are a handful he'd rather not spend hours learning to file. At least with a grinder you can go cutting wood and know you'll get adequate to excellent results. Many people who file are likely to get a surprise if they threw their chains on a (quality!) grinder as they suddenly realise that their angles and cutter lengths aren't as good as they thought they were!
Sadly most of the guys who bring their chains to me have only brought them to get a replacement as their chain "don't cut no good no more". Generally it is a good chain just sharpened badly. A quick grind to retrue it and set the depth guages and after they've used it they think it's christmas. Remember that the vast chainsaw using population see a chainsaw as a tool and nothing more. They don't have the same love affairs with their saws/chains/cutting that many of us on AS have!
Once again, not bagging filing, just making people aware that proper filing isn't as easy as some people make it out to be. Some people would rather grind and swap chains if they have to and as has happened numerous times on this site shouldn't be burnt at the stake for doing so.
Remember: Just filing a chain so that it cuts better than before does not constitute good filing and poor filing is rarely as obvious on shorter bars (ie: less than 32")
In saying that, and I've mentioned it numerous times before, some people just can't file properly despite thinking they can and as always in life some people can't be taught (people like this exist, I've worked with them
) or don't want to learn. I have a mate who is very handy and quick to work things out but has bought a grinder because he can't file very well, does a lot of firewood cutting, and with two young kids who are a handful he'd rather not spend hours learning to file. At least with a grinder you can go cutting wood and know you'll get adequate to excellent results. Many people who file are likely to get a surprise if they threw their chains on a (quality!) grinder as they suddenly realise that their angles and cutter lengths aren't as good as they thought they were!Sadly most of the guys who bring their chains to me have only brought them to get a replacement as their chain "don't cut no good no more". Generally it is a good chain just sharpened badly. A quick grind to retrue it and set the depth guages and after they've used it they think it's christmas. Remember that the vast chainsaw using population see a chainsaw as a tool and nothing more. They don't have the same love affairs with their saws/chains/cutting that many of us on AS have!
Once again, not bagging filing, just making people aware that proper filing isn't as easy as some people make it out to be. Some people would rather grind and swap chains if they have to and as has happened numerous times on this site shouldn't be burnt at the stake for doing so.
Remember: Just filing a chain so that it cuts better than before does not constitute good filing and poor filing is rarely as obvious on shorter bars (ie: less than 32")
my 2 pennies worth
I think hand filing and grinder filing both have their places in this world. I think it's priceless to have a hand file and know how to use it when you don't have the option of having power or being close to your grinder. Without a vise I personally am not the best at getting a good edge on my chain with a hand file. I usually don't have a stump vise or any kind of vise when I'm out cutting. A stump vice might be a good purchase some day.
I prefer to have 3-5 chains per bar & keep them with me when I go out. "If" I were to smoke all 3-5 chains in one day then it's usually time to call it quits anyways! LOL. It's embarrasing to admit, but I own one of the harbor freight $40 dollar grinders. I thought...since I'm not a full time cutter this thing will be bound to last me a long time. It still functions fine, but is sloppy and overall has too much play in the unit. That is what makes this unit one step from worthless. I've got a buddy that works at a local equipment shop and after bringing my chains to him and having them sharpened on the oregon 511ax grinder I now realize that the $300 dollar difference is well spent.
Every cutter is sharpened to the exact same angle, depth and length. With a good unit like the oregon and a sharpening wheel I have seen no burrs or really any way of making the chain sharper. In other words I don't see how hand sharpening could make a chain sharper than using a grinder or at least making a really noticeable difference.
I personally can't imagine a guy hand filing a 24" chain faster than I can undo two bar bolts, pull off the bar and chain, replace with the newly sharpened chain and replace & adjust. If two saws were brought in a shop and one had to be hand sharpened and the other taking apart to be bench grinded I still can't see the hand sharpening method being any quicker or at least not enough to make a big difference and I still think you come out with a chain that has something closer to a factory edge than the hand sharpened chain.
To conclude: I guess you could say that I have more pro's than con's to owning a 'good' bench grinder. However I am also saying that after you buy one you can't throw a hand file away. Cost is also a major factor here. $350 bucks for a good grinder is f'n expensive and is going to take a long time to pay for. Of course a guy could maybe advertisve somewhere to have chains sharped out of their house or garage for $8 bucks a sharpen and it probably wouldn't take that long to get your money back out of it. So there's my 2 cents worth. Take it for what you will. It's just my opinion and what I've experienced.
Buck
I think hand filing and grinder filing both have their places in this world. I think it's priceless to have a hand file and know how to use it when you don't have the option of having power or being close to your grinder. Without a vise I personally am not the best at getting a good edge on my chain with a hand file. I usually don't have a stump vise or any kind of vise when I'm out cutting. A stump vice might be a good purchase some day.
I prefer to have 3-5 chains per bar & keep them with me when I go out. "If" I were to smoke all 3-5 chains in one day then it's usually time to call it quits anyways! LOL. It's embarrasing to admit, but I own one of the harbor freight $40 dollar grinders. I thought...since I'm not a full time cutter this thing will be bound to last me a long time. It still functions fine, but is sloppy and overall has too much play in the unit. That is what makes this unit one step from worthless. I've got a buddy that works at a local equipment shop and after bringing my chains to him and having them sharpened on the oregon 511ax grinder I now realize that the $300 dollar difference is well spent.
Every cutter is sharpened to the exact same angle, depth and length. With a good unit like the oregon and a sharpening wheel I have seen no burrs or really any way of making the chain sharper. In other words I don't see how hand sharpening could make a chain sharper than using a grinder or at least making a really noticeable difference.
I personally can't imagine a guy hand filing a 24" chain faster than I can undo two bar bolts, pull off the bar and chain, replace with the newly sharpened chain and replace & adjust. If two saws were brought in a shop and one had to be hand sharpened and the other taking apart to be bench grinded I still can't see the hand sharpening method being any quicker or at least not enough to make a big difference and I still think you come out with a chain that has something closer to a factory edge than the hand sharpened chain.
To conclude: I guess you could say that I have more pro's than con's to owning a 'good' bench grinder. However I am also saying that after you buy one you can't throw a hand file away. Cost is also a major factor here. $350 bucks for a good grinder is f'n expensive and is going to take a long time to pay for. Of course a guy could maybe advertisve somewhere to have chains sharped out of their house or garage for $8 bucks a sharpen and it probably wouldn't take that long to get your money back out of it. So there's my 2 cents worth. Take it for what you will. It's just my opinion and what I've experienced.
Buck
used to only hand file only, got my chains cutting fast again...quickly.. usually in 3-4 minutes.
but since switching to square chain, hand filing while possible is a PITA... worst of all, takes me 15 minutes+ per chains or way too long.
simington square grinder makes short work of grinding square chains. since I'm grinding square chains... then why not grind my round chains too..... Silvey for round grinding
now I'm grinding all my chains... carry 15 or so spare chains and a few files for backup.
it's just about as fast hand filing vs changing out chains (for round only). but now have gotten into habit of just changing out chains for square and round.
when cutting really dirty wood, hand file preferred. that chain is toast anyways.
no way square chain is used for dirty wood... dull quick...
round chain with hand filing is equal to machine ground
this is assuming one has figured out how to hand file properly.
but since switching to square chain, hand filing while possible is a PITA... worst of all, takes me 15 minutes+ per chains or way too long.
simington square grinder makes short work of grinding square chains. since I'm grinding square chains... then why not grind my round chains too..... Silvey for round grinding
now I'm grinding all my chains... carry 15 or so spare chains and a few files for backup.
it's just about as fast hand filing vs changing out chains (for round only). but now have gotten into habit of just changing out chains for square and round.
when cutting really dirty wood, hand file preferred. that chain is toast anyways.
no way square chain is used for dirty wood... dull quick...
round chain with hand filing is equal to machine ground
this is assuming one has figured out how to hand file properly.
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Hand filing and grinders have their place.
If I'm doing a day's cutting away from home, I'll take a load of chains with me, cut until they are blunt, then sharpen the lot on the electric grinder - when you have a load of chains to do, it is quick. Setting up for 1 is too slow.
If I'm just cutting some stuff up at home, not a big job, I'll touch up with a file.
For milling - big loops, I'll touch up after every cut, then run all of the chains though the grinder to make sure they are consistent.
By the way, I was cutting for a long time before I realised that files wear out. I used to think that filing was rubbish - until I got some new files....
If I'm doing a day's cutting away from home, I'll take a load of chains with me, cut until they are blunt, then sharpen the lot on the electric grinder - when you have a load of chains to do, it is quick. Setting up for 1 is too slow.
If I'm just cutting some stuff up at home, not a big job, I'll touch up with a file.
For milling - big loops, I'll touch up after every cut, then run all of the chains though the grinder to make sure they are consistent.
By the way, I was cutting for a long time before I realised that files wear out. I used to think that filing was rubbish - until I got some new files....
Haha, good remark !!!! Filing with a blunt file is no fun....LOL, and many people don't even realise it.
I file usually for my work saws, but since I got this Stihl USG grinder, I always use it to correct the old chains on my collector saws. Try doing a long .404 chain that is totally blunt, with a file and you'll love the grinder. I also have become quite handy with it, so setting up the USG is a no brainer and takes only a little time. I officially love this machine :hmm3grin2orange:
I'll use the grinder if the chains get real bad, when I have to cut a stump out of the ground, hit the barbed wire fence or find some other object in a tree. Sharpening a chain by hand is a must for anybody running a saw.
ok i'll just get the elecrtic sharpner for back up i'm real good with a file on my chians.so i'll just buy one of the elecrtic sharpeners for back up. so thankd fellers for advice i'll buy one and just use it to sharpen them when they get really bad off
danrclem
Addicted to ArboristSite
A file or a grinder is only as good as the person using them. I got a NT grinder a couple months ago and I love it. I can file a chain and it works well but they don't seem to last as long as when I sharpen the chain on my grinder.
You need to be able to hand file but it really is an art that very few can accomplish with ultimate results. I'll readily admit that I'm not one of those people.
The grinder isn't very hard to learn and you have the advantage of having a friend to show you how to do it. The best advice that I could give a novice grinder is to go slow and use finesse.
You need to be able to hand file but it really is an art that very few can accomplish with ultimate results. I'll readily admit that I'm not one of those people.
The grinder isn't very hard to learn and you have the advantage of having a friend to show you how to do it. The best advice that I could give a novice grinder is to go slow and use finesse.
After many years of only hand-filing and the rare trip to a shop for a badly rocked chain or two, I broke down a year ago and bought a Maxx. After it arrived, I didn't find a need to use it much, wondered why I had gone against my usual penny-pinching nature and blown the cash.
Now, a year later, I really like it though half my sharpening is still by hand. They are great. I am not pushing Maxx, that's just the one I decided on. I have zero experience with any other brand.
I found it quite simple and easy to set it up and figure everything out. I did take my time, read the manual and fool around with the machine at a time I was in no hurry. Once you use them a time or two, it is so easy to set up and adjust you won't think about it. There are only a couple of adjustments to change now and then.
There are plenty of cheaper options than mine [$375 at Bailey's right now] and some folks on the forum are happy with their $50 models. I'm one of those guys who hate poorly-made tools and will save up to spend the extra on anything I'm gonna use more than once or twice.
Now, a year later, I really like it though half my sharpening is still by hand. They are great. I am not pushing Maxx, that's just the one I decided on. I have zero experience with any other brand.
I found it quite simple and easy to set it up and figure everything out. I did take my time, read the manual and fool around with the machine at a time I was in no hurry. Once you use them a time or two, it is so easy to set up and adjust you won't think about it. There are only a couple of adjustments to change now and then.
There are plenty of cheaper options than mine [$375 at Bailey's right now] and some folks on the forum are happy with their $50 models. I'm one of those guys who hate poorly-made tools and will save up to spend the extra on anything I'm gonna use more than once or twice.
robertjinnes
ArboristSite Member
Grinder opinion
I agree with SteveP. Although I have an inexpensive grinder, I understand its quirks. $50-$75 doesn't buy a solid metal frame. It buys plastic. The plastic flexes allows the grinder head to slide away from the tooth as you grind if you try to force it. I found that I needed to slowly load the grinder wheel against the tooth or both the grinder head and the tooth moved away from where they should be. Multiple passes until the wheel quits sparking on the tooth is my indication of being correctly ground. If I don't do that, the result is an edge-- but more like a metal cutting chisel than a wood cutting chisel. Sharp but not wood cutting sharp. Chains I slowly grind are as good as a correctly filed chain. Fast grind and poor filing are also equally poor. Save your $$ and buy a better one. I'm continualy watching CL and EB for that real steal on a pro type grinder.
I agree with SteveP. Although I have an inexpensive grinder, I understand its quirks. $50-$75 doesn't buy a solid metal frame. It buys plastic. The plastic flexes allows the grinder head to slide away from the tooth as you grind if you try to force it. I found that I needed to slowly load the grinder wheel against the tooth or both the grinder head and the tooth moved away from where they should be. Multiple passes until the wheel quits sparking on the tooth is my indication of being correctly ground. If I don't do that, the result is an edge-- but more like a metal cutting chisel than a wood cutting chisel. Sharp but not wood cutting sharp. Chains I slowly grind are as good as a correctly filed chain. Fast grind and poor filing are also equally poor. Save your $$ and buy a better one. I'm continualy watching CL and EB for that real steal on a pro type grinder.
