Stump Grinders. Lets talk Bearings.

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Scooter101

ArboristSite Member
Joined
May 9, 2011
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Location
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Bearings for the cutter head, why such a high failure rate? Lack of purging the bearing or greasing, over tighten the belts, to much side to side pressure? I know it is a dirty environment so purging is critical. How much do you think side to side pressure plays in wear and tear?
 
They take an absolute pounding... Each time the tooth hits the wood it is transferred to the bearing...
 
Here are some tips to possibly get longer bearing life. Grease the bearing when the bearing is warm. If you're greasing during the winter months, make sure the grease gun is put in the cab and it can warm up the grease in the gun. Grind a couple of stumps and then grease the bearing until the bearing is purged. Many of my customers find that the zerk fitting is bad and not taking grease. They will replace the zerk fitting with a new one, then grease the bearing and put the bad fitting back in. The dirt and wood can contaminate the zerk fitting. If you have a belt driven machine, you can spin the cutter wheel as you're greasing to get a more even application. I don't recommend this on a hydraulic motor driven cutter wheel as this can cause harm to you.

I carry Rexnord/Linkbelt bearings for both Rayco's and Carlton's.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-420-6400
 
Might check to see what class bearing you have been using as well. Everyday run of the mill are 3 . So classes run 3-5-7-9 for ANSI20 ISO and DIN use different #'s systems. Bearings are another area where you get what you pay for deal.
 
Here are some tips to possibly get longer bearing life. Grease the bearing when the bearing is warm. If you're greasing during the winter months, make sure the grease gun is put in the cab and it can warm up the grease in the gun. Grind a couple of stumps and then grease the bearing until the bearing is purged. Many of my customers find that the zerk fitting is bad and not taking grease. They will replace the zerk fitting with a new one, then grease the bearing and put the bad fitting back in. The dirt and wood can contaminate the zerk fitting. If you have a belt driven machine, you can spin the cutter wheel as you're greasing to get a more even application. I don't recommend this on a hydraulic motor driven cutter wheel as this can cause harm to you.

I carry Rexnord/Linkbelt bearings for both Rayco's and Carlton's.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-420-6400
Great information Dave.
 
What kinda hours are you guys getting out of a set of bearings? i have a bandit 2450 and have 320hr on mine and the bearings are still tight. I religiously grease it in the morning when the machine is warming up and then again an time the cutting wheel stops durning the day i grease to purge then back to work.
 
What kinda hours are you guys getting out of a set of bearings? i have a bandit 2450 and have 320hr on mine and the bearings are still tight. I religiously grease it in the morning when the machine is warming up and then again an time the cutting wheel stops durning the day i grease to purge then back to work.
How do you like your Haulmark 7x14 trailer?
 
image.jpg 3 years of over loaded services and all I have had to do it out 2 tires on it other then that it's been flawless. It's Carries my grinder saws rigging blowers and all. I do have a 3/4 sheet of plywood under the grinder because the factory floor did not seam happy with the weight of the rear wheels of the grinder
 
What kinda hours are you guys getting out of a set of bearings? i have a bandit 2450 and have 320hr on mine and the bearings are still tight. I religiously grease it in the morning when the machine is warming up and then again an time the cutting wheel stops durning the day i grease to purge then back to work.
Curious myself, what kind of hours is everyone getting out of there bearings?
 
I think we have two different animals. The V belt, and the belt that runs on the splined gears. I think there is less tension on the splined gear set up. I think I'm getting close to 1000 hours on the same belt/gear set. I would say I still have 30-40% life left, unless the wear is exponential toward the end. I pull the shield off and clean it out, scrape any excess grease and check tension every couple hundred hours. I have only added tension once. I do not purge. I give it 4 shots every four to six hours. I can usually see a little grease skeeter out the side of the exposed bearing when it gets up to working temp. I did more when I was running the 3 cyl RG50 until I put a new set of gears and bearings on it. The build up under the cover was just excess.
The spline belt is a solid set up. I have hit some things that sheared pocket bolts three times with no damage to the belt. The last time was a 1" rebar 20' long that I wrapped all the way around the cutter head. If the belt broke that time, I would not have been the least surprised.
 
I don't claim to be an expert on bearings, I have picked up some info over the years. A sealed bearing does not need to be purged, unless the seal has been "blown out". Same with ball joints and tie rods that are sealed. Once the seal is rendered ineffective, of course contaminants can enter. Thus, the purge is required. Some bearings are shielded and not sealed. The shield is normally metallic. The sealed bearing is normally sealed with a hard rubber/plastic something or other material. This can also act as the shield. Sometimes manufactures use annular bearings. These bearings will handle some side load. Dull teeth or knives probably destroy more bearings then people realize. Gone on to long, buy good grease, quality bearings and keep what should be sharp, sharp!
 
Grease type anyone?

I was using lucas X-tra heavy duty but am planning on siting to the red n tacky by lucas. I am finding the grease I use now starts to ooze out a little more than I am used to on my old machine. I am hoping the red n tacky will hold up better to the heat.
 

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