sredlin
ArboristSite Operative
Has anyone replaced the seal on the cylinder rod of their log splitters? Is this a tough job or an easy fix? Mine is leaking hydraulic oil from the cylinder.
Log Splitter Rod Seal
- Thread starter sredlin
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's not for the faint of heart, and without some good tools it is nearly imposible!!!
You will have to remove the hydraulic lines (this job is also extremely messy!!) then remove the pin off the rod end of the cylinder. ou will then need a spanner wrench, or be very very careful and use a punch to unscrew the nose of the cylinder. Check first, some have set screws around the outside of them that have to be removed first. Once the nose is loosened, right hand threads, it will usually turn by hand easily. I have done itseen it done, with a large pair of channel lock pliers also, not the best way. Once the nose is off you can remove the rod and gland, just slide it out, really messy!! Then you will have to remove the nut that holds the gland on, extremely tight and held on with loctite most times. Set the rod on 2x4"s put a prybar in the eye of the rod and use a breakover and cheater bar or an impact wrench to remove the nut and take the gland off the rod. Now you will need a set of picks to carefully remove all of the seals, remeber how they go on, draw a picture whaterver, it matters MOST! If you are in this far, replace them all!!!! the backing rings on the outside of the gland will not want to go on, "pull" them through you're thumbs and forefingers to "strectch" and warm them, then carefully use you're pick to put them in place. The o-rings will go on easily once the backing rings are on. Then to install the seals inside you need to "fold" these seals into a u shape, easier said than done, to install them. Use the peewaden out of lithium grease and reasemble everything the way you took it apart.
Sound easy enough?
Before you start any of this, see if you can even get parts for this, been here before, and it's not as easy as you would think! If you can't, you may be able to take the seals to a hdraulic warehouse and they might be able to match them up with some new ones.
Good luck,
Andy
You will have to remove the hydraulic lines (this job is also extremely messy!!) then remove the pin off the rod end of the cylinder. ou will then need a spanner wrench, or be very very careful and use a punch to unscrew the nose of the cylinder. Check first, some have set screws around the outside of them that have to be removed first. Once the nose is loosened, right hand threads, it will usually turn by hand easily. I have done itseen it done, with a large pair of channel lock pliers also, not the best way. Once the nose is off you can remove the rod and gland, just slide it out, really messy!! Then you will have to remove the nut that holds the gland on, extremely tight and held on with loctite most times. Set the rod on 2x4"s put a prybar in the eye of the rod and use a breakover and cheater bar or an impact wrench to remove the nut and take the gland off the rod. Now you will need a set of picks to carefully remove all of the seals, remeber how they go on, draw a picture whaterver, it matters MOST! If you are in this far, replace them all!!!! the backing rings on the outside of the gland will not want to go on, "pull" them through you're thumbs and forefingers to "strectch" and warm them, then carefully use you're pick to put them in place. The o-rings will go on easily once the backing rings are on. Then to install the seals inside you need to "fold" these seals into a u shape, easier said than done, to install them. Use the peewaden out of lithium grease and reasemble everything the way you took it apart.
Sound easy enough?
Before you start any of this, see if you can even get parts for this, been here before, and it's not as easy as you would think! If you can't, you may be able to take the seals to a hdraulic warehouse and they might be able to match them up with some new ones.
Good luck,
Andy
also--some cylinders just have a large snap ring in the end--holding the end cap in--but here also--youll need the right snap ring pliers--or youll not get it out!!!! guarenteed--those rings are stiff--used to rebuild them when worked at implement shop--some can be a mutha----
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
Mine had a wire ring that was spun into the cap, kinda hard to explain. The ring was captured in a hole in the cap then the cap was turned to wind the ring into a groove, the cap and cylinder had no threads just matching grooves to capture the ring.
CylinderService
ArboristSite Operative
Logsplitter cylinder seal replacement
As all of the foregoing guys have said, there are quite a few mechanisms for assembling a hydraulic cylinder. Sometimes they come apart easy, sometimes not. Seals are usually the easy part of the job. Andy's right - replace them all while you've got it apart. If you can't find them locally, send the old ones to us, and we'll match them up. A hint: we use STP (oil treatment) for an assembly fluid - more slippery than oil or grease.
Some things to consider:
The condition of the rod & barrel surfaces will determine if your new seals will last. Also the fit of the parts counts - seals can bridge a small gap, usually .010". If the parts are worn looser than that, the cylinder will probably leak soon after repacking. Reworking these parts is usually beyond the capability of the average mechanic & shop. And for logsplitter cylinders, major repairs are often not justified because of the relatively low replacement cost. Although we do a few. Check our website for styles & cost of available replacement cylinders before you spend too much for repair. CylinderServices.net
Don the hydraulics guy
As all of the foregoing guys have said, there are quite a few mechanisms for assembling a hydraulic cylinder. Sometimes they come apart easy, sometimes not. Seals are usually the easy part of the job. Andy's right - replace them all while you've got it apart. If you can't find them locally, send the old ones to us, and we'll match them up. A hint: we use STP (oil treatment) for an assembly fluid - more slippery than oil or grease.
Some things to consider:
The condition of the rod & barrel surfaces will determine if your new seals will last. Also the fit of the parts counts - seals can bridge a small gap, usually .010". If the parts are worn looser than that, the cylinder will probably leak soon after repacking. Reworking these parts is usually beyond the capability of the average mechanic & shop. And for logsplitter cylinders, major repairs are often not justified because of the relatively low replacement cost. Although we do a few. Check our website for styles & cost of available replacement cylinders before you spend too much for repair. CylinderServices.net
Don the hydraulics guy
Last edited:
Firewoodster
ArboristSite Lurker
They're Right-On
Dude, Andy and Don are right-on in telling you that you are capable of repairing the cylinder yourself.
I've found over these past 51 years that a man can achiev just about anything that he chooses, but sometimes you just gotta' "fake it till you make it".
Hey these guys on this site give you the best and most correct advice you can find. So go ahead....FAKE IT, and fix it, but get the right advice here on this site.
Don I have the Prince valve installed and it gave me a 2 second increase in cylce time. You are the MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Again...........
Andy the Husky 262XP that you sold me is a BEAST to say the least!!!!Thanks!!!!!!
Just a country boy "scratchin' out a livin".
A Shotgun, Rifle, 4-Wheel Drive, Splitter, Elevator, Tractor, Dog and the BEST............
2 HUSKY 36's and 1 HUSKY 262XP that is kickin' some firewoods.
Dude, Andy and Don are right-on in telling you that you are capable of repairing the cylinder yourself.
I've found over these past 51 years that a man can achiev just about anything that he chooses, but sometimes you just gotta' "fake it till you make it".
Hey these guys on this site give you the best and most correct advice you can find. So go ahead....FAKE IT, and fix it, but get the right advice here on this site.
Don I have the Prince valve installed and it gave me a 2 second increase in cylce time. You are the MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Again...........
Andy the Husky 262XP that you sold me is a BEAST to say the least!!!!Thanks!!!!!!
Just a country boy "scratchin' out a livin".
A Shotgun, Rifle, 4-Wheel Drive, Splitter, Elevator, Tractor, Dog and the BEST............
2 HUSKY 36's and 1 HUSKY 262XP that is kickin' some firewoods.
begleytree
H. sapiens moderatus
I say all the posts on this thread are spot on. but one thing- I did the wipers, seals and o-rings on one of the backhoe's cylinder not long ago. If possible, leave the piston end connected to something. those nuts on the end are on there good and tight. I ended up with a 24" pipe wrench, and 12' of conduit over the handle, and me (200lbs) and my father in law (160) on the very end to break it loose. thats why I say leave it pinned, if possible. somethings got to hold it while you break it loose.
-Ralph
-Ralph
jerseydevil
ArboristSite Operative
As stated, if the rod is knicked up, it will quickly tear up the new seals. Many knicks can be filed down with wet stones. You can do it.
Ok, this is an old thread.
BUT, someone may stumple upon it.
The question I have is WHY not simply remove ONLY the Gland and replace those seals IF that's the only problem.
My Huskee 22 ton Splitter seems to not be leaking internally. It has plenty of power to split wood.
However, the Gland leaks around the rod. I'm adding fluid but would like to fix this weeping of fluid.
My guess is IF the Piston seals we're gone and IF fluid is bypassing the piston it would be going out the Return side. Therefore as the Piston comes down the pressure in the Gland seals should not be under a tremendous amount of pressure.
However, if something is backing up Return presurep Yes the Gland would have a lot of pressure on the down stroke.
It appears to me that simply sealing the Gland leaks would be simplier than removing the entire rod.
However, the Filter or Pump, or something else could be pressuring the Return flow causing the Gland seal to fail.
I'm fishing for ideas.
I' hate to repair this only to have an immediate failure.
Thanks
Nope.not a bad idea , most people just do a total reseal because they’ve got it apart. The only hard part is getting the end cap off the tube (if it’s threaded) then getting the gland out of the end cap. I’ve done “on the cheap” rod seal jobs and only repacked the gland assuming the rod isn’t scared.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Load mostly. But as it's retracting the Gland does leak some. The leak is worse under load.
I've found no damage at all on the push rod. However, who ever painted it left paint on the push rod right at the Gland. I was able to remove a hard ring of paint without damaging the rod. My guess is that paint is what created the leak. Also there is a bolt on the end of the rod that holds the wedge. I removed the holy and wedge and the last 1/4 inch of rod tip is also painted. I'll try Tinfoil and maybe paint remover to clean and smooth the rod tip. I'm hoping to slide the Gland off the end of the rod without pulling the piston.
Big Red Oaks 4 me
Fun with flying wood chips
Many older wood splitters leak. Mine does, but if it's not too bad, I would keep on keepin' on.
It's costing me a lot in fluid replacement. It started last season. Just a tiny bit. I put Transmission stop leak in and finished the season. This year when I really need it about a gallon per hour fluid replacement has become expensive. I've considered buying a new cylinder then later rebuilding the old one and have a spare.
The Tie Rod cylinder looks easy to rebuild but it may not give me the power of 22 tons.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm thinking you might need all your seals done. ^ This might indicate just gland seals, but your post later about a gallon an hour when extending is pretty darn extreme. I'm thinking if the piston seals were good, and it was just the gland seal, it would leak about the same coming & going. Could be if you just do the gland seals, the new ones might get ruined shortly after.
Bore size plus pressure determine tonnage. Welded and tie-rod cylinders of the same bore size will produce the same tonnage.
Big Red Oaks 4 me
Fun with flying wood chips
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mine was leaking late last fall a bit when the cold caught up to me before I got my wood done.
It would stop after I got the oil warmed up. I figured there was either moisture getting in there & freezing, or the seals have lost some of their flexibility. Either way, it was only seepage, and I think it was doing it a little bit in both directions. Hard to tell when the ram is going back in & there is already oil on things. Is Ok this year so far. Leaking as much as is described, I have to think it's the internals.
It would stop after I got the oil warmed up. I figured there was either moisture getting in there & freezing, or the seals have lost some of their flexibility. Either way, it was only seepage, and I think it was doing it a little bit in both directions. Hard to tell when the ram is going back in & there is already oil on things. Is Ok this year so far. Leaking as much as is described, I have to think it's the internals.
Well Amazon is Free Shipping until Christmas on many things. So, for 219 bucks total I bought a new aftermarket replacement. I can't dilly dally at the moment. My plan is install the new one and later rebuild the old one. Have a spare. Ive split a lot of big knotty oak and many cords of wood so 219 bucks isn't a loss. Im just grateful I found a replacement this cheap. Other companies wanted 65 dollars or there about for shipping. The timing for a breakdown was impeciable. I'm always very lucky. Could be Good really does like me.
