Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[J D]

I’ve got a 1987 115 that I brought back from the dead and it runs great. Unfortunately I can’t get the brake to work properly. It will engage on its own when I’m trying to cut. I found a reference to a “service bulletin” a while back that apparently addressed this issue but I couldn’t find any further info as to what the fix was.
I’ve tried everything to correct this with no luck. If anyone is aware of the fix for this I’m all ears. I’ve had the brake assembly apart several times trying to fix this and it appears to be in good shape. The brake works and can be engaged or disengaged as normal but it continues to engage when not needed. I’m open to ideas. Here’s a pic of my problem child:
View attachment 1045342View attachment 1045343

Are the AV mounts in good shape? If there is excessive movement in the mounts it can cause the brake to trigger when you lean into a cut

 

[Goofaroo]

Are the AV mounts in good shape? If there is excessive movement in the mounts it can cause the brake to trigger when you lean into a cut

They seem to be okay but I will take a closer look at them. Thanks!

 

[meglodon]

Just found this thread. I picked up a Dolmar 7900 parts project saw I'm in the process of starting to tear into. Looking foward to bringing it back to life!
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/parts-saw-dolmar-ps-7900-re-build.365411/

 

[Massey]

Easy to do , I was bored about those tiny felling spike those 112 117 have , took one from 111 carcass , cut and drilled holes in it and it is way better now !

 

[heimannm]

I have been able to get a good scanned image of a 24x36" KMS4 poster. I am gauging interest to see if I should have a number of full size copies made. Depending on the quantity, I think I can sell them for $30 +/-. I'm not sure about the most economical way to ship them.

Let me know if anyone is interested.



The 3D printed hand guard just for a teaser.







Mark

 

[stickwelder]

Can any one help me identify this Dolmar? It’s a 20 in bar on it. I think it’s either a 116si or 120si but I’m new to this brand. No shop in my area will even look at it because they haven’t heard of it. I know it’s old I’ve done some reaserch.

 

[Clyde85]

Can any one help me identify this Dolmar? It’s a 20 in bar on it. I think it’s either a 116si or 120si but I’m new to this brand. No shop in my area will even look at it because they haven’t heard of it. I know it’s old I’ve done some reaserch.

Could you send a few more pictures from different angles? That may help narrow it down.

 

[stickwelder]

Yes I will send them this evening when I get home. Thank you for your help.

 

[Clyde85]

Well I would guess that some of the more knowledgeable people on this site should be able to help you out with some more photos.

 

[stickwelder]

The saw is dirty extremely dirty. I have been running my Alaskan mill with it. I toor it all down to go threw it and clean it up really good and look everything over. But the muffler needs some work. Here are all the picture I have since it’s torn down.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The only clue one needs is 46 mm for the 116si and 49 mm for the 120si

 

[stickwelder]

The bore size? Is there a way to measure with out take the jug off?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Looking at your cylinder head and a side view of the crankcase I think your saw is more likely a 119.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The bore size? Is there a way to measure with out take the jug off?

Just remove the muffler and insert a drinking straw or swizzle stick until it encounters the opposite side of the cylinder, raise the piston up by turning the flywheel with your hand just high enough to crimp the straw or stick , remove it and measure the length, its accurate enough to give the bore size.

 

[stickwelder]

Just remove the muffler and insert a drinking straw or swizzle stick until it encounters the opposite side of the cylinder, raise the piston up by turning the flywheel with your hand just high enough to crimp the straw or stick , remove it and measure the length, its accurate enough to give the bore size.

Okay thank you! I didn’t realize it was that simple. I’ll see what I find out. Is a muffler mod a good idea for running an Alaskan mill? Does it give more power or help keep the gases away from engine? Or is stock the best way

 

[pioneerguy600]

Okay thank you! I didn’t realize it was that simple. I’ll see what I find out. Is a muffler mod a good idea for running an Alaskan mill? Does it give more power or help keep the gases away from engine? Or is stock the best way

The Sachs Dolmar saws of that era were not choked down in the muffler so the ones I own and run did not need any muffler mods, you can check yours to see how it compares to the exhaust port size. One method is measurements but sometimes that is difficult if port shapes are not retangular so the next best method is to use dry spaghetti noodles, just fit as many as possible into the exhaust port in the cylinder and then transport them over to the muffler opening, see how many can be fitted in . Most often 85% is a good number to look for.

 

[Squareground3691]

Little muffler mod to the little demon, just need to braze in

 

[pioneerguy600]

Little muffler mod to the little demon, just need to braze in View attachment 1066632View attachment 1066631

That is a much later EPA choked down muffler, nothing at all like the muffler on the 119, 120 116si or 120 si has on it.

 

[Squareground3691]

That is a much later EPA choked down muffler, nothing at all like the muffler on the 119, 120 116si or 120 si has on it.

Actually posted it in wrong thread sorry , just realized,

 

[pioneerguy600]

Actually posted it in wrong thread sorry , just realized,

Well its a muffler, not sure what saw its from but I just did not want stickwelder to think he had to do that mod to his muffler. The mufflers on the older SD saws were in no way choked down as later models were. Nice job on your muffler mod, looks like a much later EPA era one.