Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

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Well its a muffler, not sure what saw its from but I just did not want stickwelder to think he had to do that mod to his muffler. The mufflers on the older SD saws were in no way choked down as later models were. Nice job on your muffler mod, looks like a much later EPA era one.
Actually a 550xp
 
Well its a muffler, not sure what saw its from but I just did not want stickwelder to think he had to do that mod to his muffler. The mufflers on the older SD saws were in no way choked down as later models were. Nice job on your muffler mod, looks like a much later EPA era one.
Here’s to make up for it Lol CEFA15F3-9FBB-4DBF-8E6F-4A0E879DA8EB.jpeg
 
I
Just remove the muffler and insert a drinking straw or swizzle stick until it encounters the opposite side of the cylinder, raise the piston up by turning the flywheel with your hand just high enough to crimp the straw or stick , remove it and measure the length, its accurate enough to give the bore size.
I am coming up 49mm. It measures 1 inch 15/16.
 
That would put it at the size of the , 120S and 120si.
If you can pull the flywheel off to show the coil/module underneath then it can be identified proper. I don`t see a module in your pics.
Do I need a flywheel puller? Or will it just unbolt?
 
It should pop off easily with just a good tap from a brass hammer or use a brass or aluminum drift punch and hit that with a regular steel hammer, don`t hit your crank end with any steel object, some guys swear a center punch will work placed into the recess on the end of the crank, strike it sharply but not like hitting it with a sledge hammer. It appears the module is behind the flywheel and that would make it a 120Super, not a 120si.
 
It should pop off easily with just a good tap from a brass hammer or use a brass or aluminum drift punch and hit that with a regular steel hammer, don`t hit your crank end with any steel object, some guys swear a center punch will work placed into the recess on the end of the crank, strike it sharply but not like hitting it with a sledge hammer. It appears the module is behind the flywheel and that would make it a 120Super, not a 120si.
Okay yea I see the plug wire going down in behind the flywheel, the wire for the off on switch goes back there too. I’ll see if I can get loose. When I put it back to do I just snug up the nut?
 
Okay yea I see the plug wire going down in behind the flywheel, the wire for the off on switch goes back there too. I’ll see if I can get loose. When I put it back to do I just snug up the nut?
When going back on the nut needs to be turned very tightly, if using a torque wrench then 25 ft lbs is common. Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench as almost all 1/2" drive ones are too far off at this low of a setting.
 
Okay well I started to take it loose and it messed up the tip of the shaft so I tighten the nut back up. I don’t want to break it haha I’m not sure if I can fine another.
 
Getting the flywheel off is not always easy, experience makes it somewhat easier. In your case it is not really necessary in that there is no other location for the module to be mounted so it is located under the flywheel and that makes the saw a 120 Super. I find the 120si has better porting that makes it feel snappier acceleration over the 120Super, my 120Super seems to have more grunt or torque and can be lugged down and just keeps pulling. I would chose my 120 Super for a milling saw if needed. I mill with a 90cc Solo and a 066 Stihl, some day I may mount my 090 to the mill frame. Sach Dolmars were always very well built chainsaws, I had a 7 year run with them cutting commercially, they performed very well for me.
 
Getting the flywheel off is not always easy, experience makes it somewhat easier. In your case it is not really necessary in that there is no other location for the module to be mounted so it is located under the flywheel and that makes the saw a 120 Super. I find the 120si has better porting that makes it feel snappier acceleration over the 120Super, my 120Super seems to have more grunt or torque and can be lugged down and just keeps pulling. I would chose my 120 Super for a milling saw if needed. I mill with a 90cc Solo and a 066 Stihl, some day I may mount my 090 to the mill frame. Sach Dolmars were always very well built chainsaws, I had a 7 year run with them cutting commercially, they performed very well for me.
Oh wow! Yea I did some milling with it and it ran great. Lots of power, and cut great. I was thinking if getting a 395xp or a 661 sthil. But they are so expensive. What is the 90cc Solo? I have been milling oak so far. I’m milling rough cut lumber to build a timber frame front porch to my house. Also thank you a bunch for helping me. I have been searching and searching and couldn’t find nothing.
 
How often do you run the Alaskan mill? I’m really new to it. And I have really enjoyed it milling in general. It’s something about turning a tree into usable lumber.
 
How often do you run the Alaskan mill? I’m really new to it. And I have really enjoyed it milling in general. It’s something about turning a tree into usable lumber.

I don`t mill a lot, we use a portable band saw mill the most. I have used the SOLO 690 for the most milling so far but the 066 has done some also. I cut bridge beams last time I ran them.
 
How many of us like and run Sachs Dolmars? Should we start up our own thread? I see a thread up on most other makes of chainsaws. I have a few Sach Dolmars in my collection and have enjoyed running them for production saws for 10-15 years. What say yea?
Pioneerguy600
ran a nice one summers n summers ago... one pull:numberone: wish i knew the model...light n powerful , till my brah landed a 372 on me:surprised3:
 
One day I’ll get a portable mill I hope. Thank you for the parts manual. I printed that. The parts seem hard to come by now. Do you do wood work for a living? Im a welder by trade. This is my new found hobby. Running saws and milling.
I don`t mill a lot, we use a portable band saw mill the most. I have used the SOLO 690 for the most milling so far but the 066 has done some also. I cut bridge beams last time I ran them.
 

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