Stihl MS200T Won't Start

[revgaryng]

My MS200T suddenly quit running after working great on a small job and a recent overhaul at Stihl shop. A very small amount of white smoke came from the area of the flywheel/coil like something had overheated when it stopped. It would not restart! I checked for spark, cleaned the coil, flywheel and magnets, and replaced spark plug with new one. The old plug was firing orange. The new spark is white or blue/white with spark tester and new plug is firing white when tested and grounded outside cylinder. I disassembled and cleaned carb and replaced fuel/breather line. New fuel with 50-1 mix. Cleaned fuel filter and breather filter, which also seem clear, and even tried starting with both removed in case they were blocked. The spark arrester screen was missing when I got this baby, so no obstruction there. I've tried spraying ether/starting fluid into carb and also directly into cylinder to start and she doesn't even try to start even though spark plug is firing and there's ether in the cylinder. I'm not hearing combustion. Still seems to have compression, but doesn't seem to even try to start. Any ideas welcome. Thank you, all. This one has me "STUMPED!" No pun intended!

 

[lone wolf]

My MS200T suddenly quit running after working great on a small job and a recent overhaul at Stihl shop. A very small amount of white smoke came from the area of the flywheel/coil like something had overheated when it stopped. It would not restart! I checked for spark, cleaned the coil, flywheel and magnets, and replaced spark plug with new one. The old plug was firing orange. The new spark is white or blue/white with spark tester and new plug is firing white when tested and grounded outside cylinder. I disassembled and cleaned carb and replaced fuel/breather line. New fuel with 50-1 mix. Cleaned fuel filter and breather filter, which also seem clear, and even tried starting with both removed in case they were blocked. The spark arrester screen was missing when I got this baby, so no obstruction there. I've tried spraying ether/starting fluid into carb and also directly into cylinder to start and she doesn't even try to start even though spark plug is firing and there's ether in the cylinder. I'm not hearing combustion. Still seems to have compression, but doesn't seem to even try to start. Any ideas welcome. Thank you, all. This one has me "STUMPED!" No pun intended!

Well, I think you should pull the muffler and look for scoring on the piston. How does the compression feel, do you have a tester? If no tester, hold the starter handle and see how fast the saw drops to the floor.
And EXACTLY, what did the shop do ?

 

[2StrokeFondler]

My MS200T suddenly quit running after working great on a small job and a recent overhaul at Stihl shop. A very small amount of white smoke came from the area of the flywheel/coil like something had overheated when it stopped. It would not restart! I checked for spark, cleaned the coil, flywheel and magnets, and replaced spark plug with new one. The old plug was firing orange. The new spark is white or blue/white with spark tester and new plug is firing white when tested and grounded outside cylinder. I disassembled and cleaned carb and replaced fuel/breather line. New fuel with 50-1 mix. Cleaned fuel filter and breather filter, which also seem clear, and even tried starting with both removed in case they were blocked. The spark arrester screen was missing when I got this baby, so no obstruction there. I've tried spraying ether/starting fluid into carb and also directly into cylinder to start and she doesn't even try to start even though spark plug is firing and there's ether in the cylinder. I'm not hearing combustion. Still seems to have compression, but doesn't seem to even try to start. Any ideas welcome. Thank you, all. This one has me "STUMPED!" No pun intended!

Compression: check
Fuel: check
Spark: check
Spark at the right time? Can you check if the magnets are at the right spot when at TDC?

 

[lone wolf]

If you don't know where the magnets should be, just pop the Flywheel off and see if the key sheared. Take the 13 mm flywheel nut off with a 3/8 impact gun, CC rotation is off, then hold the saw up off the bench slightly while holding the flywheel with one hand, and whack the crank end with a brass or lead hammer ONLY use a soft hammer, it will pop right off, then see if the key sheared.

 

[cscltd]

If it was recently repaired, I would take it back to them-before ripping everything apart as they probably won’t appreciate it taken apart and then ask to fix it under warranty?
How recent is recent? as a lot of people say they bought or had something repaired recently, yet it was 2-3 years ago

 

[revgaryng]

Well, I think you should pull the muffler and look for scoring on the piston. How does the compression feel, do you have a tester? If no tester, hold the starter handle and see how fast the saw drops to the floor.
And EXACTLY, what did the shop do ?

Thank you. I did try holding starter handle and letting saw drop to floor. With bar removed it drops about one turn of flywheel or about 8 inches of rope and stops. Pulling to start, the compression does seem less than when it came from the shop. I'll pull the muffler and check for scoring and check back. Also, I'll get a compression tester. Any idea what the compression should measure? It's been a few months since it came back from the Stihl shop, but it's only been used twice. Thank you.

 

[revgaryng]

If it was recently repaired, I would take it back to them-before ripping everything apart as they probably won’t appreciate it taken apart and then ask to fix it under warranty?
How recent is recent? as a lot of people say they bought or had something repaired recently, yet it was 2-3 years ago

Yes. Thank you. It has been a few months since going to the Stihl shop. Funny! The guys at this shop refused to work on my Poulan Pro and would only take it my two Stihls. They said I'd be wasting my money! LOL. Though it's been a few months, I've only used the MS200T twice, so I though it would be good for awhile. It was cutting like a champ the second time and then just shut down. I will take it back to the shop, but I think lone wolf hit on something with the compression or scoring. I'll check, first. "Recent" seems to get longer the older I get! LOL

 

[revgaryng]

If you don't know where the magnets should be, just pop the Flywheel off and see if the key sheared. Take the 13 mm flywheel nut off with a 3/8 impact gun, CC rotation is off, then hold the saw up off the bench slightly while holding the flywheel with one hand, and whack the crank end with a brass or lead hammer ONLY use a soft hammer, it will pop right off, then see if the key sheared.

I'll check for sheering. Thank you. That definitely could throw things "off!"

 

[revgaryng]

Compression: check
Fuel: check
Spark: check
Spark at the right time? Can you check if the magnets are at the right spot when at TDC?

Thank you. Great idea! Would I check magnet position by removing spark plug and checking if piston is TDC? Also, there are two magnets. Any idea where they would be in relation to coil when piston is TDC--1st or 2nd magnet? Brings to mind tuning my 1st car with a timing light (which I still have), before we even heard about computers.

 

[Oletrapper]

Thank you. Great idea! Would I check magnet position by removing spark plug and checking if piston is TDC? Also, there are two magnets. Any idea where they would be in relation to coil when piston is TDC--1st or 2nd magnet? Brings to mind tuning my 1st car with a timing light (which I still have), before we even heard about computers.

If the key is sheared you will still get spark. Just not at the right time. I would also check the ground wire circuit on the coil. Possibly a frayed wire. In my mind, the white smoke is your clue. Possibly the coil went bad? Could still get spark with the plug held to ground but not strong enough when under compression? Just some thoughts. OT

 

[lone wolf]

Thank you. I did try holding starter handle and letting saw drop to floor. With bar removed it drops about one turn of flywheel or about 8 inches of rope and stops. Pulling to start, the compression does seem less than when it came from the shop. I'll pull the muffler and check for scoring and check back. Also, I'll get a compression tester. Any idea what the compression should measure? It's been a few months since it came back from the Stihl shop, but it's only been used twice. Thank you.

150-160

 

[lone wolf]

If the key is sheared you will still get spark. Just not at the right time. I would also check the ground wire circuit on the coil. Possibly a frayed wire. In my mind, the white smoke is your clue. Possibly the coil went bad? Could still get spark with the plug held to ground but not strong enough when under compression? Just some thoughts. OT

It takes 15 seconds to take the flywheel off.

 

[dieseldod]

think its sheared, they have tiny keys easy to destroy, advance the timing while your in there

 

[Oletrapper]

It takes 15 seconds to take the flywheel off.

Come on now. It takes me longer than that to get the recoil off. lmao OT

 

[lone wolf]

Come on now. It takes me longer than that to get the recoil off. lmao OT

I meant with the recoil off, actually. Interesting challenge though!

 

[Old2stroke]

Thank you. Great idea! Would I check magnet position by removing spark plug and checking if piston is TDC? Also, there are two magnets. Any idea where they would be in relation to coil when piston is TDC--1st or 2nd magnet? Brings to mind tuning my 1st car with a timing light (which I still have), before we even heard about computers.

Only one magnet, two legs that line up with the legs of the coil core

 

[2StrokeFondler]

Would I check magnet position by removing spark plug and checking if piston is TDC?

Yes.

Any idea where they would be in relation to coil when piston is TDC

I can take a picture of mine at TDC later that day, or tomorrow.

 

[heimannm]

For the record, spark normally occurs 25-30° BTDC...

Mark

 

[revgaryng]

Thank you. I did try holding starter handle and letting saw drop to floor. With bar removed it drops about one turn of flywheel or about 8 inches of rope and stops. Pulling to start, the compression does seem less than when it came from the shop. I'll pull the muffler and check for scoring and check back. Also, I'll get a compression tester. Any idea what the compression should m easure? It's been a few months since it came back from the Stihl shop, but it's only been used twice. Thank you.

I don't know what the shop did. Web address: https://www.automaticsawfiling.com/. I had the MS200T and a Stihl Farm Boss that weren't running. They did change the bar on the Farm Boss and chains on both saws. I don't know what they did mechanically, but both saws started and ran great! I'm still using the Farm Boss. The MS200T did develop a leak in the fuel line, later, which I replaced.

 

[revgaryng]

Yes.

I can take a picture of mine at TDC later that day, or tomorrow.

Thank you. That would be great!