Chain Issues.. anyone??

Typhoon · Apr 16, 2004

Ok, every time I cut for like 15 minutes, my chain gets a little loose and I have to adjust it. Does this happen to everyone else? It doesnt matter what type of chain I use. I have used 3 different brands and they all do it. Also, my oiler is working perfectly. But I will cut for like 15 minutes solid, then when I set my saw down, i can see slack on the bottom of the bar. So I tighten it up and go again. IS the chain actually stretching more every 15 minutes? Or what is happening? Heat??

Typhoon · Apr 16, 2004

The sharpening issue is not the problem. For one, my sharpening technique is excellent. I am very anal about everything, ESPECIALLY my chain always being perfect. Secondly, it happens with brand new chains. I know that a brand new chain will stretch a little, but it seems like its happening a little too much. Its not a sprocket issue either. I have the rim type on my 346xp and I put a new one on every time I go through 2 chains. But your comments did raise a question for me. How hot should the chain be when im done cutting? It is very hot to the touch when I shut my saw down. It is oiling fine. I guess my question is, how often are the rest of you adjusting your chains? Approximately...??

rb_in_va · Apr 16, 2004

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
I'm not trying to sound critical

MasterBlaster · Apr 16, 2004

Once a day, maybe. Are you sure yur chain adjustment screw is working properly?

ricksvar · Apr 16, 2004

Their are a few issues here,a oiler can be working properly and if you have a longer bar on the saw you may tend to get more stretch or a hotter chain.Same if the chain is not sharp.

Rocky,did'nt you replace the oiler on your 346?If so,why?

Rick

Typhoon · Apr 16, 2004

Halfway through the first tank in my 346, my oiler failed. So I had my dealer install a new one. The one he installed had a different part # than the original, and his explanation was that Husqvarna put an oiler in the 346 that would not quite cut the mustard. I think that is a common issue with new 346's. Also, I only use Carlton chain that I order from J. Sikkema. I am a Carlton fan and have had great luck with it. I use the narrow kerf stuff. I also hit each tooth 2-3 strokes between each 2 tanks of fuel or so. Maybe I just got into some dirty wood or something. I will keep you posted. Thanks.

Saw Man · Apr 16, 2004

Rocky Squirrel,
How can one tell the difference between the 'hard vs soft' Oregon chains?
Or, maybe a better way of asking the question, is how do you test as to what makes the difference?
Thanks.

mboln52000 · Apr 16, 2004

Originally posted by Typhoon
Its not a sprocket issue either. I have the rim type on my 346xp and I put a new one on every time I go through 2 chains. B]

Every 2 chains?? Something sounds very wrong here. I run rim sprockets on all my Stihls, and the one on the '36 does need replacing now, but i have ran at least 10 chains on it, maybe more?

It could be a couple things. If you are cutting really dead wood, or soft wood, the oil will be wicked right off, and it isnt doing you any good, no matter how much volume you put out.

In my experience, dry wood zaps a chain faster than anything. After bucking up a dead oak log, 30" or greater in dimater, that chain is a smoking! rev the saw in front of a cut pice and its oiling like crazy, but its getting burnt off because of the heat. I have seen smoke coming off the chain before. Then its loose as can be too, like you said, after 15 minutes or so.

If i take that chain, and resharpen it, and cut a green log, there will be oil all over the chain, like it should, without changing the oiler settings, and my tension hasnt changed.

I only run Stihl oilomatic chain, bought in the bulk, whatever comes on that roll, a couple hundred feet. I dont have a stretch problem with it, even on a new chain. I think a lot of people over tighten the chain. I shoot for a bout a 1/4" defelection at a few pounds of force.

What kind of wood are you cutting?

Matt

luvbug1977 · Apr 16, 2004

My bar and chain get pretty hot too, but only when bucking up REALLY dry wood. In the past couple weekends, I've been giving my Husky 350 a serious workout. Most of the wood I've cut up thus far (about 4 cord) has been fell for many months or over a year. Since I'm using a 20" bar, I adjusted the oiler to it's max setting.

I did notice when I cut green stuff, the bar and chain don't get very hot. I guess this is normal, but the chain didn't stretch very much (Oregon chain).

I've now run about 10 +/- tanks of gas in this new saw and recently made the "final" adjustments, according to the owner's manual. It's supposed to make it run leaner. After making a few tweaks, man, this saw really seems to rip! RPMs seem a bit higher. I made sure not to make it too lean and cause overrev.

jokers · Apr 16, 2004

Brad, sorry to disagree with you, but it sure sounds like you are running dull chain. BTW, dull chain cooks the oil off and makes it look like your oiler isn`t working.

I know that people have put different oilers on their 346s but the oiler from the 357 and 346 share the same part #. Placebo effect? Maybe. I`ve heard about the service bulletin but haven`t looked at it. Anyway, neither of my 346s are displaying an oiler problem.

BTW, being anal doesn`t guarantee that you are right, just anal. Maybe your sharpening could use a little help, it`s nothing to be ashamed of, everyone has to learn.

I also question the soft Oregon chain that Brian is seeing, I haven`t seen it the way that he describes. I run 73LG on my saws from the 357 up and have barely perceptible stretch over the life of the chain. I`m talking about the chain chassis since I know that some chain does have thicker chrome on the cutters.

Russ

Lawn Masters · Apr 16, 2004

It could be that your chain is not getting enough oul because you forgot to increase the oiler output for a longer bar too, that happens sometimes, not often but it does happen.

rahtreelimbs · Apr 16, 2004

Didn't Typhoon mention that he has used brand new chain? That would eliminate the dull chain factor.

jokers · Apr 16, 2004

Originally posted by Rich Hoffman
Didn't Typhoon mention that he has used brand new chain? That would eliminate the dull chain factor.

Not necessarily Rich, one trip around the bar at around 1,800sfpm through some grit is all it would take to dull a new chain.

Russ

rahtreelimbs · Apr 16, 2004

Originally posted by jokers
Not necessarily Rich, one trip around the bar at around 1,800sfpm through some grit is all it would take to dull a new chain.

Russ

Good point!

WRW · Apr 16, 2004

Is there any chance that the chain might be too tight in the first place?

Dadatwins · Apr 16, 2004

Curious why no one asked about tightness issue? If user is over tightning chain every time it is tightened chain will overheat and stretch or break if it gets really hot regardless of oil that is on chain. I like chain to pull up about a matchbook cover at mid span on bar.

ricksvar · Apr 16, 2004

It's probably just a defective placebo oiler the dealer installed when his first oiler failed

Rick

Dadatwins · Apr 16, 2004

You asked first WRW just typed faster than me.

NevadaWalrus · Apr 16, 2004

I've found most bars, with retainer nuts loosened, whill have some up and down play, slop, on the saw. When you grab the bar tip and raise it, the chain loosens.

If the chain is adjusted and tightened without lifting on the bar tip to remove the slop, the bar will tend to do so on its own as the saw is being use, pressure applied to the bottom of the bar. This could be the source of your chain becoming loose after a bit of running.

Also, if you have a really hot chain that is stretched from heat, don't tighten it up tight while hot. When it cools it will contract and can damage the crank and bearings.

Typhoon · Apr 17, 2004

Ok, as for the filing issue, like I said before, I am sure that this is not the problem. I consider myself very good at it, and I learned from a local logger that is considered good at what he does around here.. So, I am confident in my technique as you are yours. However, I will take the advice and make double sure that a dull chain is not the problem. I purposely cut very clean, "not too dry" wood for a half hour or so to see if that helped and it didnt. Also as somebody else mentioned, after I tighten the chain, I also lift up on the bar and adjust before tightening the lugs. Also as a sidenote, I use a GB Pro-Top 18" bar on my 346. But after reading all of the responses, it brings another question to mind. HOW tight should the chain be after tightening? Maybe I am tightening it too much?? I tighten it so that there is NO slack at all. It is pretty tight on the bar. I can pull it around the bar with my hands, but it is tight. Should there be any slack at all on the bottom of the bar? Thanks!!

Chain Issues.. anyone??

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