what file system to buy

injun joe · Feb 1, 2009

ok i grind all the chains on my saws BUT i want to learn how to file just becaus it would be great to know how to do. so at my local dealer there is a reall fancy black oregon sharpener and there is a not so fancy looking stihl sharpener so which would be easier to start out on. i would like to later draw my own conclusion and try them side by side on the same saw just for my own theories. :chainsaw:

Stein · Feb 2, 2009

All that I can say is that a simple file holder is as easy as it gets. Once you learn to free hand file, you will be touching up your chain more often and getting more out of each hour's cutting. I used to have 10 or more chains and take them in to sharpen at the dealer. Now, I haven't taken a chain off a saw in the last two months. Each fill or at the least every other fill, three swipes with the file on each tooth and I'm good to go. I use the basic Oregon file holder and just use the angle marks on the file holder. I do my sharpening in the bench vise as I am never far from home.

willsaw4beer · Feb 2, 2009

Stein said:
All that I can say is that a simple file holder is as easy as it gets. Once you learn to free hand file, you will be touching up your chain more often and getting more out of each hour's cutting. I used to have 10 or more chains and take them in to sharpen at the dealer. Now, I haven't taken a chain off a saw in the last two months. Each fill or at the least every other fill, three swipes with the file on each tooth and I'm good to go. I use the basic Oregon file holder and just use the angle marks on the file holder. I do my sharpening in the bench vise as I am never far from home.

Yep, the more you do it the better you get. I'll normally run the file with the guide through the teeth a few times every half a tank, or whenever I finish bucking up a log, fill up, clean out, etc. It seems to me a pass or three very often is much easier than waiting until the chain starts getting dull. It's easier to keep the cutters uniform and makes for smoother cutting. Whenever I start to notice a change in the chips I hit the rakers with one swipe of the flat file, and after about 2 swipes I dress the curve on the raker. The key to a sharp chain is meticulous maintenance.

brages · Feb 2, 2009

I would say to go to your stihl dealer and get the little $20 kit that has the file w/holder, depth gauge, and flat file, all in a neat little pouch. If you're serious about filing your chain, you're going to need all those tools, and the kit gives you good quality tools in a nice pouch to keep em in, for no less money than the files themselves would cost separately.

I didn't go this route, but I wish I had.

CentaurG2 · Feb 2, 2009

On the stihl web site, you will find a section called “information tips and how to”. In that section you will find a list of available videos. In the video section chapter three covers “sharpening your chainsaw”. Good video on the basics of using the stihl file guide. Both stihl and Oregon make good file guides but stihl comes in a handy kit.

scotclayshooter · Feb 2, 2009

brages said:
I would say to go to your stihl dealer and get the little $20 kit that has the file w/holder, depth gauge, and flat file, all in a neat little pouch. If you're serious about filing your chain, you're going to need all those tools, and the kit gives you good quality tools in a nice pouch to keep em in, for no less money than the files themselves would cost separately.

I didn't go this route, but I wish I had.

Yep thats what i use but i change them to plastic quick release handles.
I swapped a saw for a TV and gave the guy a quick demo with the Stihl guide and he picked it up right away.

The Oregon guide works Ok but the clips release now and then , I prefer the Stihl version with the screws.

Swamp Yankee · Feb 2, 2009

scotclayshooter said:
The Oregon guide works Ok but the clips release now and then , I prefer the Stihl version with the screws.

+1 on that thought.
The extra dollar or two is worth it for the Stihl.

As to the Oregon guide referenced by the OP, I believe you're refering to the one that clamps on the bar and sets the angles. The theory is good, Oregon's execution leaves room for improvement as that jig flexes all over the place. The Granberg jig is more rigid and works pretty well for about the same money as the Oregon.

The Stihl filing jig is top notch, but not cheap. I have the bench mount version. The file bends before the jig flexes. I only use it for really rocked out chains to get the angles back, otherwise I can do just as well and a faster job with the basic Stihl file Holder.

Take Care

trimmmed · Feb 2, 2009

IMO, a file-o-plate will do more to teach you how to file a chain, particularly if the goal is to eventually go freehand. It will also help you make some pretty sharp chains.

injun joe · Feb 3, 2009

thanks i think ill go with the stihl sounds like a better one to start out on 1. :clap:

willsaw4beer · Feb 3, 2009

***** joe said:
thanks i think ill go with the stihl sounds like a better one to start out on 1.

Get the Stihl system and then go to their website, they have a video detailing how to use it (not that it's not pretty self explanatory) :cheers:

angelo c · Feb 3, 2009

Guys,
I have a question. Are there different grits available for the files. My thinking is I would want a more aggressive(course) file for the initial edge and a finer file to touch up. More like a hand plane sharpening process.
thanks

BC WetCoast · Feb 3, 2009

angelo c said:
Guys,
I have a question. Are there different grits available for the files. My thinking is I would want a more aggressive(course) file for the initial edge and a finer file to touch up. More like a hand plane sharpening process.
thanks

No need to get that finicky. Just get the coarse one. If you only need a quick touch up, just use less strokes.

My partner and I had to file two saws a total of 5 times today, trying to buck down a high stump. There was gravel embedded in the bark seams. My brand new file is half worn out now.

parrisw · Feb 3, 2009

Lets not forget the Husky combi gauge, I have one and really love it. Works really great.

jburlingham · Feb 3, 2009

trimmmed said:
IMO, a file-o-plate will do more to teach you how to file a chain, particularly if the goal is to eventually go freehand. It will also help you make some pretty sharp chains.

+1

I bought a file-o-plate recently and it is my go to tool for regular filing. I have an Oregon file guide that mounts to the bar, and really its not worth the set up time to use. I touch-up free hand in the woods, but I always file at home with the file-o-plate.

BobL · Feb 3, 2009

Stein said:
Now, I haven't taken a chain off a saw in the last two months.

Wow you must have very clean softwood that makes nice clean chips.

I find I have to remove my chain to clean the bar grooves and turn the bars over after every couple of days of sawing but I am milling hard resiny type wood. I know what you mean but, I used to swap chains in the field and file them at home. Now I touch up more regularly (sometimes after every slab) in the field, and clean - inspect - file chains and check rakers when I clean the bar.

I use a file guide with 10º top plate angle marked on the guide. I use a modified Oregon guide that clamps onto the bar only for square ground chain which increasingly rarely use.

SWE#Kipp · Feb 3, 2009

parrisw said:
Lets not forget the Husky combi gauge, I have one and really love it. Works really great.

It's the best i have tried so far if you mean the "roller guide" ?
very easy to use and you get a good feel for free handing later on

Grande Dog · Feb 3, 2009

We've sold a lot of bar mounted filing guides to State, and Federal agencies for entry level training. I talk to people who do training for Calfire (CDF). The guide is initially cumbersome but, if you're working with one style of chain they set up pretty quick. The idea is to get the feel of the file on the chain, and develop muscle memory of the filing action. Even a newbie working full time will only be using the guide 50% of the time after a week or two. Within a month, they'll use it maybe one out of 5 times or so. After a couple months, a person will be freehand filing like they new how to eat with a knife and fork. There's a few different filing guides out there, and they all set up about the same.

Stein · Feb 3, 2009

BobL said:
Wow you must have very clean softwood that makes nice clean chips.

Most of mine is standing dead elm, debarked, so yes it is very clean wood. A bit of ash mixed in. I guess I lied. I did take off the bar, clean it and flip it once about a month ago.

I guess my point was that I don't swap chains and take them in for sharpening any more. I've probably saved $100 already since I started filing this winter. They get $10 a loop here. :dizzy:

parrisw · Feb 3, 2009

SWE#Kipp said:
It's the best i have tried so far if you mean the "roller guide" ?
very easy to use and you get a good feel for free handing later on

Yup, thats the one. Looks like this.

Maul Man · Nov 8, 2010

Making it sharp

What I would like to see posted from both the grinders and the hand sharpeners is a picture of what the saw is doing to the wood right before they sharpen it. Then show a picture of a cutter right before and right after they sharpen it. Then show what its doing to the wood afterward. I have a 511AX but also hand sharpen. I have yet to get it back to new chain cutting capabilities. It works better after I sharpen and that includes getting rakers down to the designated levels

what file system to buy

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