Is therer a HOW TO change piston/ring thread..maybe with pictures?

I was looking around looking the Chainsaw forum for one thinking..."oh wouldn't it be nice"...

Did I miss it if its out there waiting to be found or is there no such thing?

It would vary greatly depending on what saw you have. Changing the ring is the easy part, Pulling the top end off is what you may need info on and that would be very different from saw to saw. They make a ring tool but I just use needle nose pliers. They also make ring compressors that are a must. Baileys has them for 5 bucks.

i've done that on my 365special which is pretty much the same as the 2165. its easy just make sure you clean it good first, you dont want any crud getting in places it shouldn't be. just get the plastic cylinder cover off and undo the rubber intake boot(it may be easier to leave the boot on the cylinder side and take it off the carb if you can), then start on the cylinder bolts and slide the whole cylinder up.
there are ring compressors and a wedge thing that hold the piston still but even though they make things easier they arn't needed.
take the old ring off and compair it to the new one, you will be able to see how much its worn right there. put the new ring on the same way the old one came off. get your gasket on.
compress the ring and maybe put a little oil around the piston and ease it into the cylinder slowly, like a gentleman .

btw unless you undid the boot on the carb side, you might want to get the rubber boot back on the cylinder before you bolt it down. if your 2165 is anything like my 365 the plastic that holds the boot in place makes it imposible get it on the cylinder after the bolts are on.

I have no idea which saw you are refering to.. but just get the service manual - it's all explained, and has pictures...

Laugh all ya want but I made my own ring compressor out of a clear plastic jug cut to the right size and depth for each bore. It has worked flawlessly. I used my 026 size last weekend to replace the piston and rings.

Let us know what saw...................we may have a manual for ya......



..........or do a search on here for piston/ring replacement, rebuild, modification, etc.....


Good luck.

just time for a quick reply as I head out to work...

Its a Jonsered 2165

Thanks

Search my post for my 2071, Troll posted a great shop manuel there. Thanks again Troll.

Hi Ray...I searched for that manual reference but can't find it....any chance you could link to it?

and I did the job this afternoon...about 1 hour start to finish and as soon as it cools off from my test run I'll post the new compression.

Here are some pictures...

here are a couple more...

:censored ITS STILL 120 PSI

It starts and runs well after the new piston, ring and piston pin, there was NO evidence of material transfered onto the cylinder wall and the old piston and ring looked like they were in pretty fair shape :censored: :ce:censored: What have I missed

Here is the old piston/ring!

How Do I post a link, I have seen it done but do not know how. In the mean while I will repost somthing on the thread and it will move the thread to the top.

See if this works.

Here is WORKSHOP MANUAL for the 371xp - same saw.

Edit. It did not work but look at the thread for 2071 carb setting

run a few tanks through it first then test the compression.
i gained 5psi after a few tanks when i installed a new ring on my 371xp. (maybe i did the origonal one wrong... i dont know)
aslo its getting warm out. take that blue winter kit off your saw and put the origional black one on before you burn it up.

Kurtty;

Thats the way I bought this saw, is that blue air deflector a "winter" accessory?

I don't have any other parts!

Can I purchase the "summer" deflector, and where?

While I'm at it I want a set of those "teeth" that go on the saw body where the bar mounts, where would I get those and are they expensive...

I know far too little about this saw

Kenora said:

:censored ITS STILL 120 PSI

It starts and runs well after the new piston, ring and piston pin, there was NO evidence of material transfered onto the cylinder wall and the old piston and ring looked like they were in pretty fair shape :censored: :ce:censored: What have I missed

Here is the old piston/ring!

Click to expand...

If it started and ran well with the old ring, why did you tear it down to change the ring? Chances are from the new one being the same compression, your guage is either off or doesn't have the check valve in it (automotive type, not small engine).

Kenora said:

Kurtty;

Thats the way I bought this saw, is that blue air deflector a "winter" accessory?

I don't have any other parts!

Can I purchase the "summer" deflector, and where?

While I'm at it I want a set of those "teeth" that go on the saw body where the bar mounts, where would I get those and are they expensive...

I know far too little about this saw

Click to expand...

Yes the blue deflector is to be used in cold weather only, manual says below 0 degrees celsius. You should try to get hold of the fellow you bought the saw from, he's sure to have the black warm weather one close at hand, if he's the one that changed it in the fall. Otherwise your only choice is the dealer or perhaps someone who's parted out a saw. I'd hate to think that saw's been run like that year round with the deflector in place.

I don't think i have any of those deflector pieces, but i think i might have a bucking spike if you want one, and you should, as it's got the chain catcher built onto it. You can have it, just cover the postage which shouldn't be too much to go only 300 miles. I'll look through the parts boxes in the next day or so, and see if i indeed have one around.

I'd agree with some of the other compression answers too, you're gauge might be reading faulty. I used to use a gauge that couldn't be tightened/sealed to the cylinder as it had too far a reach, and would hit the piston if screwed in all the way. I'd always get 100-120 psi readings. I finally bought a new tester set last fall from "Tire", and it came with the proper size fitting, and an o-ring to seal, then the same saw read 150 psi. The old gauge couldn't get an accurate reading as some compression was leaking past the adapter threads. One thing to think about. I've attached a picture of the new gauge, and the two different adapters. The proper one for a saw is the one with the o-ring and valve.

Let me know about the bucking spike.
Ken

Timberjack...pm coming your way!

and YES I ran it all last summer with that blue deflector in place :censored:

Kenora do you still need a manual? I don't have a Jred one but do have the 365/371xp manual and it should have all the pertinent info. PM me your email addy and it's yours.

And yes, get rid of that winter shroud................excess heat is a BAD thing. (unless your cuttin' in the tundra)

blue shroud coming off right away!

Who could know!