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Well with the request of the original owner, I guess just the basics and slap it back together? I am new to chainsaws, but I’ve been a mechanic my whole life. I usually work on bigger things, like cryogenic plants. I got into saws (and other 2 stroke equipment) last year. I’m not sure what a guy would want you to do to the saw without taking it apart. Maybe a nice dye job on the plastics. 😂
Sure, it's like a cryo system. Just slap it back together, no worries. Send it, right?

My beard needs the dye job 😩
 
Myself, I believe that bearings from 30 years ago were better made than anything available today. If they are quiet and not all carboned up, I wouldn’t replace them. And if he put a new bearing in it already, it probably has new seals in it recently as well.

Curious to see what you come up with, Ken. I don’t believe I have ever ported an 024 so I don’t have any help to offer
 
Myself, I believe that bearings from 30 years ago were better made than anything available today. If they are quiet and not all carboned up, I wouldn’t replace them. And if he put a new bearing in it already, it probably has new seals in it recently as well.

Curious to see what you come up with, Ken. I don’t believe I have ever ported an 024 so I don’t have any help to offer
My man It’s a 44mm bore.
I got the 44.7 here also.

The S model has the longer stroke in them to match the 026/260.
I have a good 024 cylinder here.

These tiny things are annoying. Your fingers ain't going in this thing! Fact


I'd agree with everything about old bearings and they call me the fool for not splitting cases that never had any issues and do not need to be replaced. Now once metal went through them I beg of the owner to replace both bearings. No clue what happened to this one but who knows what bearing he put in it. It's not OEM, for sure. It appears to be a standard steel cage bearing. The flywheel side has the the factory bearing in it. It's tight, washed clean and rolls smooth but still it's unknown to me. If the jug was on it and burnt then accessing it would be much easier. If it does go south it won't be long into the run time or it will last forever.

The Echo has me wondering about plenty. Two major issues were solved and one more popped up. Maybe I get time to do some pics and post there tonight, swamped here with things to do. Rain stopped.
And out the door I go.
 
The Meteor came with it. The ports were terrible. Now they are manageable. Nothing but filler will fix the transfer ports on the Meteor. Haven't touched either one in years. They were in the bottom of a box of jugs
 

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I posted those wrong. Open them.

The marking compound shows were the jug short circuits out the exhaust and puddles fuel into the cylinder right on top of the piston. Great for cooling bad for a clean burn. The fuel is liquid and doesn't burn early enough to make power. Cylinder fill is a no go you throw away too much. They also made the intake taller, fail. This is why they seem to race good with higher rpms and more dynamic flow. Midrange it pollutes the incoming charge and some leaves the exhaust.

None of this is conducive to efficiency or good VE.
 
I opened the horrible shape they had and the razors edge on the combustion chamber. It's too small with too much quench area stock. Milling the cylinder will only make it worse. Pumping losses also come with a wide quench area. Once your over 40% your already too far. Some run ok up into 55%. This Echo came in around 20% perfect imo. Everyone has their own way. I follow the numbers for my builds. This needs about 20% of the area as quench. It's past that now on OEM and most other jugs as is. This is no exception. You can only do so much with a casting so I did. Transfer tunnels are cleaned out and the giant lip removed on the entries. Exhaust was widened and the intake. Haven't found a "duration card" on it so it needs to be checked for timing events again.
 
The plating has marks in it just like the OEM one. I was told it only has few tanks run through it. It must of had chips or something going through it. I have pistons and cylinders with over a thousand tanks through them my 660s and they look better. The OEM is about the same as this one but shiny. Nothing has been measured or I don't have the spec if they were. The shortblock is dry and clean always was by some miracle. Piston has a few scratches but nothing deep or important.
 
Sure, it's like a cryo system. Just slap it back together, no worries. Send it, right?

My beard needs the dye job 😩
It’s funny you put it that way. Working on a cryogenic plant is so much about the prep and cleanliness of the work area when you’re opening the system up. You might actually be surprised about the “slap it back together and send it” part. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do!

I like working on dirty 2-strokes when I’m at home. It’s a nice change of pace. 🤣
 
It’s funny you put it that way. Working on a cryogenic plant is so much about the prep and cleanliness of the work area when you’re opening the system up. You might actually be surprised about the “slap it back together and send it” part. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do!

I like working on dirty 2-strokes when I’m at home. It’s a nice change of pace. 🤣
Send it!
 
View attachment 1059882
I posted those wrong. Open them.

The marking compound shows were the jug short circuits out the exhaust and puddles fuel into the cylinder right on top of the piston. Great for cooling bad for a clean burn. The fuel is liquid and doesn't burn early enough to make power. Cylinder fill is a no go you throw away too much. They also made the intake taller, fail. This is why they seem to race good with higher rpms and more dynamic flow. Midrange it pollutes the incoming charge and some leaves the exhaust.

None of this is conducive to efficiency or good VE.
In a warmed up engine thats running remotely close to right there is no such thing as fuel puddling.
The ports suck on Stihl saws of that era, but puddling isnt a thing. If it were it would have the effect of making the motor feel as if the choke was on.
 
@bwalker

Um little girls read this forum. Why in the hell would you post a video in my build thread of a drunk Australian man climbing around in tree wearing a jock strap?..
Then he climbs down to argue with a cop about his big d***.

Is there really something wrong with you?

Answer for it now you fool.
What is your problem troll?
 
If you think that's the case perhaps you shouldn't be porting customers saws.
And FWIW you need to bump the compression up on those saws to make them run.
Your a troll and I damn sure don't need you to tell me anything.

It's called running manners you ass. Something you don't have, obviously. Go find your mob and bother them dude.
 
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