026 chain recommendation

[Jconaway]

I finally decided to buy a used Stihl 026. I do need to replace the bar and chain, however, and I was wondering which route I should go regarding what style of bar and chain to buy. This will be a light to medium duty saw for bucking a couple cords per year, and possibly felling a few trees if necessary. I believe I want to stay with an 18" bar but a 20" would work as well. I prefer to keep my cost down as much as possible but I do want something that will cut decently and efficiently for my usage. Due to the several styles of bars offered I'm a bit confused. Stihl recommends one particular bar and chain (18", .325 pitch, .063 gauge, 74 links) for this saw, but yet I see other Stihl bars and chains that are supposed to work with the 026 as well. Is there a FAQ to explain how all these numbers interact with each other and how they affect saw behaviour and performance?
Also, will Stihl's recommended bar for the Stihl 270 saw (the 3003-002-7117) work properly on an 026, considering they recommend the 3003-000-6817, even though both bars use the same identical chain? I'm a bit confused here...

 

[DarioMO]

Check your PM box

 

[Lobo]

The best set up I have found for my 026 is 16 inch bar & chain with .325 chain, nice, lightweight set-up , real easy to handle and maneuver around with.

On the 026 I use .325 Stihl 26 RS chain at .063 with that combination you can handle hardwoods of 18'' to 20'' in diameter or larger if you want to use a tiny bit of patience. You will note that on a short bar like a 16 incher you can easily run .050 bar & chain, .325 23 RS full chisel or you could go to 3/8'' 33 RS full chisel as there is virtually no deflection. I use the .063 because I have never broken one and trust it completely and I feel the .325 is a bit easier for the saw to turn it.

 

[Jconaway]

I was thinking that I want to stay with an 18" chain most likely. I know there are different styles within the same size and I wasn't sure of the differences and benefits of each one.

 

[tony marks]

you god all the way with what lobo suggested..u mite consider going to 50 gauge an running 95 vp chain.. very smooth and fast.. still the rs or lg chain will do well also..

 

[geofore]

" I need to replace the bar and chain" If you want to save money you will check to see if the sprocket is new or worn out. Nothing like putting a new bar and chain and a bad sprocket together to stretch the chain and damage the drivers in a few miniutes of run time. If you want to save money in the long haul you'll replace the sprocket now, when replacing the bar and chain. You'll find that changing the sprocket along with the bar and chain on an old saw makes a world of difference in the cut and how long the new chain lasts. Spend it now and get the sprocket (a couple of bucks) or spend a lot more later when you find out the the old sprocket messed up your new chains and bar. It's not good trying to pinch a penny by overlooking the sprocket. No matter which bar and chain setup you go with get a new sprocket to go with them if the old one is worn. It will save you money. If the saw has been run long enough to wear out a bar and chain it's been run long enough to wear out the sprocket, replace it and save money.

 

[Lobo]

I was thinking that I want to stay with an 18" chain most likely. I know there are different styles within the same size and I wasn't sure of the differences and benefits of each one.

Then use Stihl 18 inch loops model 23 RS in a .050 gauge or 26RS in .063 gauge. The 3/8'' inch is wider than the .325, remember the longer the bar & chain the harder it is for the saw to turn it. (A dealer will fix you up real easy)

Stick with the 2 above you will be happy or in Carlton or Oregon equivalents.

If you do go to 3/8 '' chain, do not forget to change your sprocket to a 3/8 size.

 

[Molecule]

not to throw a wrench into ongoing happiness, but I seem to remember a post ehp did maybe about a year ago on a ported 026, where he ran test times for various chain possibilities ... net result from a fair amount of effort --> as I remember it --> he chose 3/8 chain (on 7-tooth sprocket -?) as it outcut a 325 (on 8-tooth -?) by a fraction of a hair (0.1 sec out of a 7 sec cut -- ??), so 3/8 chain might be an option if it fits in with other equipment -- files sharpeners backup saws etc..

 

[Lobo]

not to throw a wrench into ongoing happiness, but I seem to remember a post ehp did maybe about a year ago on a ported 026, where he ran test times for various chain possibilities ... net result from a fair amount of effort --> as I remember it --> he chose 3/8 chain (on 7-tooth sprocket -?) as it outcut a 325 (on 8-tooth -?) by a fraction of a hair (0.1 sec out of a 7 sec cut -- ??), so 3/8 chain might be an option if it fits in with other equipment -- files sharpeners backup saws etc..

Molecule I think that is correct in wood below 10 inches, over and above that size it may not be as true.

 

[chainsawworld]

.325x50x16" and should i say GB? marty

 

[Lobo]

.325x50x16" and should i say GB? marty

Thank you Marty, I prefer 16 inches on those also, they balance out real nicely and feel real good in my hands.

 

[ontario026]

I have an 026 with a modded muffler and I run RS chisel, .325 x .50 x 18" on it.... I used to think it worked really quite well on everything, and it does work pretty good, but since I got the 044 which has and 18" bar on it, I have used the 044 for all of my larger work.... I personally will be going to a 16" on the 026 when the bar needs replacing, and using the o26 for the lighter duty limbing etc,..

 

[DarioMO]

After reading the reponses from you guys, I am now thinking if I should change the bar on my Husqvarna 55R to 16" (when the one I have needs replacing). Since it seems like a comparable saw to 026.

Note that my 044 will probably be fitted with a 20" bar anyway.

Any thoughts?

Dario

 

[Jconaway]

Wow, thanks for all the replies, guys!
This is my only saw so it needs to be as well-rounded for my needs as is possible. Also, as a result of it being my only saw (for now ), I don't have any need for my chains to fit any backup saws, either. So is the general consensus that should go with a 3/8", .050, 16"? I assumed an 026 would have more than enough power for an 18" and it would give me a little bit of an edge on larger logs/trees.
How much do the sprockets cost, by the way? Also, where's the cheapest place online to buy all these items online? Or should I stop at my local Stihl dealer?

P.S. How can a .050 vs. .063 gauge affect performace? Doesn't that only apply to the drive link thickness and not the cutter itself? Sorry for all the dumb questions.

 

[brent denny]

People will argue forever which chain is better on that size saw. My vote is for .325. Sprockets are only around $5. An 18" bar may save some bending and help with felling larger trees. On the other hand, there are a few more teeth to sharpen and it might not balance quite as well as a 16''. Yes the gauge only affects drive link thickness but when you rivet the teeth and tie straps onto a thicker drive link, the kerf is widened.

 

[glens]

I've never gotten the calipers out to measure the actual kerf, but between the .063×.325 and the .050×3/8 Stihl RS chains, it doesn't look to be but a few thousandths difference.

I ran a test late last fall with an 036 and brand new chains/sprockets cutting 10" shagbark hickory.  For the .325 I used an 8-tooth rim and for the 3/8 a 7-tooth (for almost exactly the same rim diameter, thus chain speed).  The 3/8 cut in 7.75 seconds and the .325 cut in 6.50 seconds.  (and a loop of brand new Oregon .325 with the safety bumpers cut in 8.25 seconds)  A loop of used, hand-filed 3/8 RS cut in 6.75 seconds so I expect the .325 would show a decrease in time as well after filing (the Stihl chain is rather aggressive out of the box, maybe too much so for hickory).

If you go with the .325 (which you should, in my opinion) you'll have the option of dropping to a 7-tooth rim to "gear it down" if you need to but with 3/8, 7-tooth is as low as you can go.

I'd say keep it to 18" maximum.

Here's the kit I'd like to see you price:

16" Stihl bar (solid or laminate) (I prefer the solid for the contour and nose diameter)
1 loop each of .325×.063 RS and RM chain (23RM, 23RS)
1 each 7 and 8-tooth rim

Glen

 

[Jconaway]

Ok, that makes sense. Which brings me back to my previous question...where's the best place to buy the chain, bar and sprocket?

 

[DarioMO]

Ok, that makes sense. Which brings me back to my previous question...where's the best place to buy the chain, bar and sprocket?

The bar...you already have good leads. Chain can be had cheaper from eBay (watch the shipping cost though). You will probably get better deals for multiple item purchase. The sprocket is cheap and you will be better of buying them locally at your Stihl dealership.

I forgot...Jeff Sikkema is checking GB bars for me right now for availability. You might want to check with him too at http://www.snssawshop.com/ BTW, he also sells chains

If all else fails...Stihl dealership is the way to go though they are more expensive.

 

[glens]

I'd meant 26RM and 26RS, not 23.

It looks like the laminated bar is the only one available in that pitch, the part number should be 3003-000-6813 for the 16" (which calls for 67 driver links on the chain, say 26RS-67) and 3003-000-6817 for the 18" (which calls for 74 drivers).

I don't have the part number at hand for the rims (assuming the saw has that setup, which if it doesn't you should spring for now) but they're the standard Stihl small spline rims.

You don't need to get the Stihl bar, but the Oregon equivalent really isn't, IMO, as it doesn't have a dam behind the oil inlet to the bar and the chain always sounds like it's running dry as well as there being an oily mess at the tail end.  The Oregon chain works well enough, but the Stihl is a bit better though you pay for what you get.

I'm not current on the prices of all this stuff, but I'd imagine you'd be dropping about $100 on the counter at the dealer to get all the stuff I listed.  I'd get both rims because you might just be able to use the 8-tooth for every purpose, but if not, you'll have the option as well as a spare in the tool bag.

Happy hunting and be safe out there.

Glen

 

[Crofter]

Glen, I wonder if the 260 might take what is called the " MINI " instead of small. I have three sizes and the "small" one I ordered is between the 066 size and the 260 size and fits on nothing I own.