026 chain recommendation

[glens]

May be...

The 036 takes the size below the large-spline (the mid-spline?) but the 361 takes the large-spline (alas, the drums won't interchange, the only difference I noted was the depth of the bell.  The clutch itself appears to be the same part between them (they have the same dimensions everywhere, anyway).

Thanks for calling attention to my incorrect advice in a timely manner.  Really.

Glen

 

[chainsawworld]

here is the 16" and 18" bars for the 026 in 50 gauge. both with the .325x7 rim. the chain is semi-chisel. i like the laser chain for all around work applications. good stay sharp,easy to sharpen, long top plates for longer use and good angles. marty

 

[Jconaway]

This saw has a rim sprocket installed. Since it's a 24" bar, would it be safe to assume it's a 3/8" chain/sprocket? The bar is not stamped to indicate the specs. How do I tell if the sprocket is a mini or a small without taking it to the shop?
Also, if I found a really good deal on a longer chain, how much does a shop typically charge to shorten it to the length I would need, or is that even feasible?
Chainsawworld, do you have prices on those bars and chains which you showed in the picture?

 

[glens]

24" bar on an 026?

If it's a Stihl bar, I don't think they make .325 past 20".

Pull a tape measure out and lock it at a couple of feet, take the chain and pull it tight, then line up one of the driver points at 10" and count 10 more points.  If you find yourself at almost 17½" you've got 3/8 chain.  If it's only 16½" to the 10th point you've got .325.  Next step is to ensure the chain pulls easily through the sprocket.  If there's a pitch mismatch you'll know it.

It really doesn't matter, though; you need a new rim no matter what unless the one on there is brand new and is the pitch you want.

The rim pops right off by removing the e-clip (sorry for being so obvious, but don't forget to use your "free" hand as a backstop to prevent the clip from flying off somewhere and hiding) and washer.

Glen

 

[Jconaway]

The chain pulls smoothly without binding. I just measured it and there are 10 links (including drive links) in a 6 1/2" span as you suggested, so I guess it's a .325. Or did I measure wrong? No matter, as I plan on replacing the bar, chain and rim at the same time.

 

[Lobo]

Perhaps this can help it was supplied a while back by Marty/Chainsawworld.

These are number of teeth per sprocket and various sizes.

 

[glens]

Pitch × 2 = distance between successive drivers, so 10 spaces between drivers would be 6.5" for .325 and 7.34" for 3/8 (it's not actually .375, but is instead .367; don't ask me why).

Do keep us informed.

Glen

 

[sedanman]

Things to remeber: Many 026's were built with spur sprockets. Upgrade to a rim. The Stihl rim is sprocket is more than twice what you can get an Oregon one for and the Stihl small rims are not generally available on the aftermarket. Oregon Powermatch Plus (solid with a replaceable sprocket nose) bars can be had for the same price as Stihl laminated bars if you shop around. Stihl chain is outstanding stuff with very hard chrome, it is priced accordingly. 026's have an early and late version and you have know you serial number to get the right clutch drum or you oiler will not work or the drum will not fit.
WHen I had my 026 it was equipped with a 18" Stihl laminated bar and .325 chain. I swapped to a rim sprocket set-up and tried 3/8" chain, MY 026 DID NOT LIKE IT! MY SAW cut faster with .325. I would run a 16" Powermatch Plus in .325, choose .050 guage if your going to run Oregon chain and .063 if you want to run Stihl or Oregon chain, most Stihl dealers will only have .063 in stock and Oregon dealers will generally have .050 but will get you .063. Do no worry about interchangeability of cutting attachments between saws, set each saw up with the best combination for its intended purpose. You wouldn't hog out the wheel wells on the family car to make sure you could run the tires off your truck on it so don't compromise your 50cc saw so you can share chains with your 70cc saw.

 

[Lobo]

Do no worry about interchangeability of cutting attachments between saws, set each saw up with the best combination for its intended purpose. You wouldn't hog out the wheel wells on the family car to make sure you could run the tires off your truck on it so don't compromise your 50cc saw so you can share chains with your 70cc saw.

I agree. Excellent advice !

Especially if you plan on running your saws stock, set them up for maximum performance.

 

[Jconaway]

This is an earlier saw, but has been converted to a rim sprocket. I'm not worried about what size it currently has, because as Glens suggested I think I'll just replace the rim to make sure it's in good shape since they're only $5 or so. I'm also not worried about interchanging chains/bars at this point because it's the only saw I own.
At this point I'm really leaning towards an 18" bar, 23RS chain. Would you please explain why you recommend a 26RS, Glens?

 

[glens]

Dang, Paul!  Where were you earlier?  You could have saved me a lot of time and trouble.

<tt>:</tt>)

 

[glens]

Sorry, "Quick Reply" missed your post.&nbsp; Because the 23RS isn't usually in stock, like Paul (sedanman) just stated in plain english.

 

[chainsawworld]

i also have two used 20" bars for the 026 in .325. one is 50 gauge and the other is 63 gauge. i dont recommend 20". these bars were either on saws i bought or i talked the owner into a shorter bar. i do try to talk people into converting their saws over to all the same gauge. makes it easier when replacing chain. i run 50 on all my saws and i have a bunch.
i also try to talk people into converting over to rim from spur. it may seem like an expense at first but pays off in the end. marty

 

[Lobo]

In my area anyways and this probably applies almost everywhere, the Stihl dealers carry more .063'' gauge than the .050'' so it is easier to get a loop of 26 RS than the 23RS.

I am sure in areas where there is sufficient demand they probably stock both.

I use the 26 RS on my 026 and like it a lot, no complaints. I have never broken one and have caught and cut some strange items in the wood.

 

[SawTroll]

Over here all Stihl chain in .325 is .058, and all in 3/8" (not lo-pro) is .063.
The importer claims that .050 breakes too easily.

I suspect that the real reason is that they want to simplify logistics for themself.

 

[SawTroll]

you god all the way with what lobo suggested..u mite consider going to 50 gauge an running 95 vp chain.. very smooth and fast.. still the rs or lg chain will do well also..

As Tony said about 95VP. You might need a Narrow-kerf bar, like Oregon Micro-lite Pro or Carlton NK, for it to perform it's best, though.