026 help...take two!

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You're flat with the recess. You need to be flush with the raised outer edge.
 
Ok I'm lost here to by the looks of my gauge. And the op pix I thought he had it right. image.jpg
 
Milkman, you are right, the metering arm on a WT is set flush with the floor of the metering chamber. There is no way that short metering arm would function properly if it had to be flush with the carb body.

I do think you have a carb problem.
 
OK, thanks fellas, I'll tackle this tomorrow and post back any results/failures, right now it's time for a whiskey...
 
You said you replaced the welch plug. Are you sure you didn't drive it in too flat? Blocking the passages underneath? It should be domed.
 
Update: I lifted the metering lever up just see the response and I think that was the problem. Saw is running now, can run WOT without bogging! I guess it just needed more fuel, although now I think it's a little too rich. but I can fine tune that now. I'll post a video when it's done.
 
I've rebuilt many (100's) of carbs. Removed everything... including welch plugs.
I'd run them for hours through the US cleaner, install a new kit, triple check everything.
Sometimes you get a carb that just will not function properly. I'd tare it back down... check everything again, still no luck.
I don't have an answer why, unless it's something internally worn on the carb. I run into that about 1 in 20 carbs.
I've used near 30 of the China Walbro copies now. They work fantastic and can usually be had for under $10 to your door!
For that money, I'd get one and see if it makes a difference.
 
If raising the metering arm much above where the gauge specs it fixed the problem, then you are masking other problems. I would guess you have some obstruction in the low speed passages. By raising the arm you are adding more fuel. It is the same as opening the L needle (which would fix the symptom you had).
 
Hmm. Well I tried to lower the arm again and it didn't seem to run as good as before. When I took the carb apart for the rebuild, I sprayed cleaner throughout all the passages but nonetheless, I'll try again. With the metering lever further "up" or open, the saw will run rich while idling but 4-strokes nicely at WOT. I tuned the L needle down from about 1 full turn out to 3/4 turn out but anymore and it's too lean. I'm still learning how to properly "tune" a carb by ear but I've done a few saws now so I know what to look for.
 
I've never used one of the Chicom replacement carbs, but others seem to have pretty good luck out of them. If you can't get the carb right, it might be worth a try. If for some reason you want to use a genuine Walbro carb, I used a WT-194 from this guy on a customer's saw and it worked great. I mainly got it so he'd have a fully adjustable carb
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131100861823?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661

I know carb problems can sometimes be frustrating, but hang in there and between you and all the knowledgeable guys on here, you'll get if figured out.
 
I feel like I'm starting to make headway... although I can get it to WOT (and hold RPMs) and it feels good in the cut, when it's idling too much fuel is pouring into the carb and it's flooding and I have to blip the throttle before it burns off the excess and cleans up at WOT.

Yeah I'm thinking about a wt-194.. or even chi town special. Does anyone know the model # of a Chinese replacement?
 
Some WT carbs are flush with cover holes and some are .065 below cover holes. Yours does look low to me but I dont think its .065 low give ti a tweak and see how that works. Do you have a pic of the diaphram? The diaphram should have a button to actuate the lever thats .060 or very close.
 
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