026 Rebuild...Probably Been Done

[PepperTheDoggo]

I was thinking of dropping the 026 down from that big bow (how do you take measurements of a bow guide to convey size? what parts of the guide are measured or is a chain tooth count more important?) to a 18" bar. Mad Scientist I got your:
"Get a 16" , 3003 mount , 0.063 , 0.325 bar. Stihl 26 RS chain 67 dl , and check you drive sprocket is 0.325. Find a dead 024/026 carcass for chain brake and other parts. Trading post here might find those." Why do you persistently recommend the 16" bars on 026s? I am genuinely curious and not trying to be a smart ass. I have run chainsaws off and on through the years for around a decade, but we're talking minimal stuff here. I live right on the Georgia fall line...I work in pest control not in tree work, and Georgians in my locale (myself included) very rarely need much firewood. Our winters are a joke. I generally put my hands on chainsaws once or twice per year for clean up purposes (we get powerful storms sometimes) and the occasional firewood-getting forays. I enjoy using my axes and mauls for splitting...even though our red and white oak varieties can be gnarly. For some reason, the chainsaw bug just decided to bite me this year and I decided, "I want to learn more about these things..." So here I am. Thus...why do you recommend the 16" for the 026? Are ~50cc class saws best with this guide length? Also, can you break the other numbers down? What's a 3003 mount? What is the 0.063 number, and the 0.325? Is the "S" in RS semi-chisel? Is the "R" round-ground? I gather that 67 dl is the number of drive links. Anyway...I learn quickly, but I don't by any means know as much as I would like to. Thanks for your patience and recommendations. I may well check out the trading post for those saw carcasses. =-)

Farmer Steve, thanks for answering my RPM question! So it sounds like me being between 2,500 and 2,800 idle may well need to come on down a bit. I put the high at 12,900 outside of wood. From what I've been reading, it sounds like I may actually need to push that to around 13,500 outside of wood to fall towards 12,000-12,500 in the cut? Is that correct? Is the L adjustment not usually measured with a tachometer like people do with the LA and H? If so, what sort of RPM should I be tuning for with the L?

Blueduce, what's the drawback of running a 40:1 vs a 50:1 in a machine labeled for 50:1? Does it cause excess mess in the engine/on components? I know it causes more smoke...does that indicate an inefficient burn that also causes power loss? I've also read where believers in sticking with 40:1 tend to caution that if you do that, the carb needs to be tuned to adjust for the difference. What would that look like RPM-wise?

Dumbarky, why do you like the hard-nosed bars? In Arkansas, you are probably working in a lot of hardwoods, which is pretty much the only thing I mess with (unless a pine falls in an unfavorable location). Is there an advantage to the hardnoses in hardwoods?

Mad Scientist, I read your "you chain is on backwards and that"s too much bar for a 026 get a 16" bar" in my head as an aggravated Clint Eastwood-esque voice that made me laugh...I halfway expected some sort of nippy follow-up like, "And pull your pants up, for God's sake! You look like a clown..."

Thanks for the active posting, guys. I will keep y'all updated on how this all turns out for this saw. I appreciate y'alls' input(s?).

 

[farmer steve]

@PepperTheDoggo. # of drive links usually dictates bar length. On my 026 I can run a 16" bar and it is 67 drive links. My 18" bar is 74 drive links. Here is a pic of a Stihl box that may answer some of your other questions. If not ask. FWIW I like the 18" on my 26.

 

[Blueduce]

PTD; getting back to your original question, in paragraph 3, (and thanks for that by the way) you mention replacing the
bearings and seals. I just did that on my saw and I’m telling you now, splitting that case and replacing those bearings is no joke...! Not to impugn your mechanical skills, but w/out the proper tools (like me) I spent 1/2 the time fabricating and brain storming work-arounds for the expensive proprietary tools I didn’t have. Those case halves and bearing pockets are incredibly tight. Chilling the shafts and heating the cases IS NOT A SUGGESTION, and you gotta be quick like a bunny when you re-assemble. At that point, if it can go wrong, it will go wrong, But you will learn a lot.

You might be better served by breaking that saw down to it’s minimum and getting a quote from a saw shop for a bearing, seal and gasket replacement, if they don’t skin you too bad.
I consider myself a competent mechanic and this first saw challenged me. BUT knowing what I know now I would have no problem doing another. Just my take, YMMV...

By the way, that saw looks like it will clean up nicely.

 

[Blueduce]

PTD; I appreciate your curiosity, but IMO your overthinking things a little...

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

Thanks for the pic, Farmersteve! I've been perusing Stihl's site and learning a lot about their "RS", "RM", "RSF", etc. chains. Do Stihl bars only accept Stihl chains? Blueduce, I'm just trying to learn what I can early. Repetition, experience, and mistakes will be what will cement all this for me, but I would like to avoid as many mistakes as I can. I know I've asked a lot of questions. I saw someone one here say, "Ever since I've joined AS, every other thought that goes through my head is 'chainsaw'."...pretty damned accurate. To be honest, I've had hobbies that are WAY more expensive that refurbing old saws (guns/shooting, kayak fishing, to name a couple)... So my mind has been going through the justification process of buying compression testers and hand vacuum pumps, crank case splitter (Blueduce, you've seen the one from Farmertec that goes for ~$40 and works on quite a large number of Stihls, right?), etc. Also, for those 026 lovers...this is a three part series by a New Zealander "Kiwi Lad" where he really does a good job of showing a tear down. Hope that works.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

As long as number of drive links, pitch of chain and gauge match bar with chain and drive sprocket, it should not matter what bar and chain manufacturer you use.

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

Well, good report on the saw! And a couple of other developments... The 026, after replacing the fuel line and adjusting the carb (all three adjustments) using a tachometer, ran out a half a tank of 45:1 and half a tank of b&c oil (nice to know that it does both at roughly the same speed). I used it to buck up portions of a wateroak that came down in some heavy winds and rain a couple of months ago. The logs were separated from the tree using a 37cc Ryobi to limb and a MS271 18" to cut the larger portions off of the downed tree. I drug the logs into the clear with a tractor and chain, and then I bucked what I could with the 026 and that bow guide to test and see if the new fuel-line/filter and the carb adjustments did the trick to bring it back to life. Again, I only filled the gas tank half full and ran it dry because my plan was and is to now retire the saw and do some really serious work on it... I have decided that I'm going "whole hog" on this joker. I plan to buy the case splitter from Farmertec, replace the gaskets, seals, probably go back with OEM fuel line and filter, replace the carb boot, impulse line, bearing seals, case gaskets, etc. etc. And of course I also plan to get a replacement chain brake handle, probably a new grab handle (the old one has some suspicious taping), new/proper air-filter cover, back handle (just the black piece if I can find a "saw carcass"), etc. I also want to take the bow off and find a bigger powerhead to pull that thing. What would you guys recommend to pull that bow? Would a 044 powerhead be strong enough? Anywho...there are ALSO a couple of other saws I have that need a little help.

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

Had an older neighbor/pest-control customer ask for my brother and I to do a termite inspection under his house. We started jawing about saws and whatnot and he sent us on with that 028 WB (Electronic) and that little Homie!! Saws beget saws! Anyway, he hadn't used either in over five years but, "They started the last time I tried them...five years ago." So we took those out, too, after running some cleaner-mix through them (did that a few days back to allow the crud to "clear") and put some 45:1 in the 028 and some 40:1 in the little Homie (along with bar and chain oil, of course) and ran those some, too. They both start and idle well! The 028 also has a bow (though a bit smaller than what's on the 026) and it has an aggressive full comp full chisel chain. Too much for the powerhead, but we went easy on it with smaller stuff to just get the old horse moving a bit. I plan to focus my energy on the 026 first, but I will definitely be popping into the 028 WB and the little Homelite along the way, too, to clean up and fix what I can. I can't wait to get the tach on them to tune 'em after seeing what a good carb adjustment did for the 026. =-)

 

[Matt_Ellerbee]

Where in Georgia are you Pepper? I’m in Canton.

On my 026 in the soft Georgia pines, I like 18” and 3/8’s. I’m muffler modded and timing advanced too. Anything harder the 044 comes out.

I have some parts, I’ll look to see if I have what you’re wanting.

 

[Okie294life]

View attachment 752507 Had an older neighbor/pest-control customer ask for my brother and I to do a termite inspection under his house. We started jawing about saws and whatnot and he sent us on with that 028 WB (Electronic) and that little Homie!! Saws beget saws! Anyway, he hadn't used either in over five years but, "They started the last time I tried them...five years ago." So we took those out, too, after running some cleaner-mix through them (did that a few days back to allow the crud to "clear") and put some 45:1 in the 028 and some 40:1 in the little Homie (along with bar and chain oil, of course) and ran those some, too. They both start and idle well! The 028 also has a bow (though a bit smaller than what's on the 026) and it has an aggressive full comp full chisel chain. Too much for the powerhead, but we went easy on it with smaller stuff to just get the old horse moving a bit. I plan to focus my energy on the 026 first, but I will definitely be popping into the 028 WB and the little Homelite along the way, too, to clean up and fix what I can. I can't wait to get the tach on them to tune 'em after seeing what a good carb adjustment did for the 026. =-)

If it isn’t broke don’t fix it I say, the road to hell is always paved with good intent. Take it to a local dealer or decent shop and have them pressure test it for you...probably cost 20$. If there’s nothing wrong with it just work on replacing all the rotting stuff and rip away! Unless you know what you are doing the success rate for splitting a case or punching in bearings, or resetting a head can be low.

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

Matt, I'm in Thomson, Ga. 30 miles west of Augusta. I'm REALLY looking for a bigger powerhead for these bows.

Okie, I'm willing to try to do these things with the understanding I might fail. The hard way is the way I have found best when I want the knowledge gained to stick. I have taken the 026 to two separate small engine repair shops about three years ago. The first one said it would be ~$200 to "fix" it, but couldn't tell me what was wrong...so I was suspicious and just asked for my saw back. The second shop owner just said, "I can tell you now that that powerhead is too small for that guide." and wouldn't even look at the saw to address the problem it was having. So I put the saw away (and got that Ryobi you see in the picture...their 37cc offering...great little saw) for two years deciding that I would learn saws one day. Just so happens it's now. To say I don't trust other people with my stuff is being euphemistic. I have the mechanical capability to learn it myself... Worst come to worst, I purchase a couple of good refurb saws from sellers on this site (or WORST yet, I buy brand new...ugh). I'm a can-do-er. ;-)

Edit: OH...and as stated earlier in this post. What neither small engine repair shop was able to diagnose was that mangled fuel line!!! When I realized that that was the problem (just a couple of weeks ago) and that I ALMOST blindly shucked out $200 to the one shop two years ago, my trust levels have plummeted. Working in the pest-control industry it's easy to see when a technician does the wrong thing how it gives the industry a black eye. The SAME goes for other industries...

 

[Okie294life]

As long as you are aware you are doing this for a hobby/learning experience that’s good, but if your livelihood depends on it...maybe not. Be aware mistakes start to get real expensive when you are talking about a rebuild. The only reason I started taking on projects, was because its what I’ve always done, just not with chainsaws. Trimmers, blowers, mowers, whatever...easy. Pro-Saws, are the Bain of my existence when it comes to repairs, that’s why I just went and bought a new one. I only have one in my shop now, and when it’s fixed I hope to be out.

Matt, I'm in Thomson, Ga. 30 miles west of Augusta. I'm REALLY looking for a bigger powerhead for these bows.

Okie, I'm willing to try to do these things with the understanding I might fail. The hard way is the way I have found best when I want the knowledge gained to stick. I have taken the 026 to two separate small engine repair shops about three years ago. The first one said it would be ~$200 to "fix" it, but couldn't tell me what was wrong...so I was suspicious and just asked for my saw back. The second shop owner just said, "I can tell you now that that powerhead is too small for that guide." and wouldn't even look at the saw to address the problem it was having. So I put the saw away (and got that Ryobi you see in the picture...their 37cc offering...great little saw) for two years deciding that I would learn saws one day. Just so happens it's now. To say I don't trust other people with my stuff is being euphemistic. I have the mechanical capability to learn it myself... Worst come to worst, I purchase a couple of good refurb saws from sellers on this site (or WORST yet, I buy brand new...ugh). I'm a can-do-er. ;-)

Edit: OH...and as stated earlier in this post. What neither small engine repair shop was able to diagnose was that mangled fuel line!!! When I realized that that was the problem (just a couple of weeks ago) and that I ALMOST blindly shucked out $200 to the one shop two years ago, my trust levels have plummeted. Working in the pest-control industry it's easy to see when a technician does the wrong thing how it gives the industry a black eye. The SAME goes for other industries...

 

[Okie294life]

It’s getting harder to get anything worked on, especially if it’s old. You are in luck because there are tons of AM parts for the 026/260. I think one of the reasons dealers are bidding so high is they really want to sell new equipment, since that’s where the margin is at, they want to avoid working on bombed out equipment. If they have a dude working on something most of them have a billable rate of 40-75$/hr. With a 50-75$ minimum around here. So it helps to at least know what you want to have them work on if anything else. Most of certified guys should be able to tear a saw apart and reassemble it in under an hour if they are good at all. You may get charged for who knows how many hours cleanup fees all sorts of crap. I had a mower that was under warranty one time and Home Depot wanted 125$ to tighten a belt tensioner and “clean” the equipment. 1.5 hrs. The police about had to drag me out of there, the store manager thankfully took care of it.

 

[MaddBomber]

The 026 is a great little saw. Yes, it's outdated and underpowered by today's standards, but they react well to mods, are very nimble and extremely tough.
I wouldn't split the case, so unless there is noticable issues with the bearings or seals, leave that alone (definitely pressure and vacuum test it).
Clean everything! HOT soapy water and a stiff brush will do a lot. Brake clean, purple power, degreaser, bleach etc. It will be boring, tedious work, but well worth it. Plus, you'll get to know the saw so much better. And maybe notice things that need to be replaced.
Most parts can still be ordered through a Stihl dealer, and just about everything has a part number stamped on it. I've personally never had luck with aftermarket parts, so if you can afford it, get genuine Stihl. Especially for the plastics.
So get a shop manual, some tunes, a clear workspace and just start.
If a 37cc Ryobi is handling your cutting needs, a refreshed 026 will be a perfect fit.
I personally think the 026/MS260 does best with a 16" bar. With a muffler mod and minor port work (smoothing and blending), an 18" won't be an issue.
You've got a lot to learn, but the best way is getting your hands dirty, and slinging some chips.
Untill I bought a 261c, my 260 was definitely my "go to" saw. Now that I'm essentially out of the firewood business, and my MS261c was subsequently stolen, I'm back to relying on my MS260.

 

[Brent Adams]

How about that PTD, I'm in Elberton. About an hour north.
Nice looking saws.
PM me when you get on that Homie. Ive got a few of those lying about.
No creamsickle parts......yet.