028 clutch drum rubbing on plastic cover

[stihl025]

I think that cover was used with the very early version of the 028/clutch drum which is NLA (the drum in the IPL with no part #). I don't see any chain brake parts on your saw either. What does your handguard look like? Is it built to accept the chain brake?

Need to see a picture of , the inside of, both early and late covers. Also, anybody have one of the early clutch drums for a comparison? My 028S and parts 028S are all later supers.

I'll go with you have a very early 028, that is fitted with the later/newer clutch parts. You may need that later clutch cover?

This the best I can do. The handguard is an early one with no viewing windows. It has the spring to keep pressure forward but the saw did not come with any other brake parts. I have looked around for some but didn't have any success finding any, especially with the older style brake band. This project was to get the saw functional on a budget. So, I'm not investing a ton into it. I'm not even sure that the saw came with the brake parts originally. I just have to figure out how to keep the plastics from rubbing and melting from within.

 

[atpchas]

See https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-028-wb-chain-brake-add-on.289804/post-5671376
for 028 brake variants.

 

[Mad Professor]

This the best I can do. The handguard is an early one with no viewing windows. It has the spring to keep pressure forward but the saw did not come with any other brake parts. I have looked around for some but didn't have any success finding any, especially with the older style brake band. This project was to get the saw functional on a budget. So, I'm not investing a ton into it. I'm not even sure that the saw came with the brake parts originally. I just have to figure out how to keep the plastics from rubbing and melting from within.

The saw looks pretty clean/nice, so I'm going to assume the clutch drum bearing and inside of drum are O.K.?

A bunch of the covers are on ebay now, with pictures 1100, 1102, 1103, 1104. The first three have the part/protrusion that goes towards the bar studs, on the 1100 it's a little different. The inside of the 1100 is a little different. The 1104 is missing part that goes towards the bar studs, but inside is similar to the 1102 and 1103.

I grabbed screen shots of 3 of them, 1100, 1102 and 1104:



Sometimes I find ebay useful......

Did the 028 have any changes in the clutch carriers too?

 

[rocketnorton]

Yep, and beware of using Oregon aftermarket drums on the old Stihl saws.

curious why?
just put oregon rim conversion on later 028. seems to fit/work...
am aware of stihl/or. small spline diffs.

have early [mag tank] 028 part saw, if anyone needs anything. has brake.
havent looked into that side, so cant help the op right now. can look later.

 

[Mad Professor]

Still not solving the OP problem with clutch drum rubbing but......

Explaining why 1104 clutch housing cover is missing protrusion near bars studs.

Late 028 had side adjust chain tensioners. The late right side crankcases were changed to accept the tensioner. This is why the clutch housing cover was changed to remove the protrusion, and the chain sprocket cover had added hole between the bar studs for tensioner access.

 

[hotshot]

curious why?
just put oregon rim conversion on later 028. seems to fit/work...
am aware of stihl/or. small spline diffs.

have early [mag tank] 028 part saw, if anyone needs anything. has brake.
havent looked into that side, so cant help the op right now. can look later.

Their inconsistent drum stampings will cause differences in the distance from the sprocket face to inside the drum, so the assembly using OEM washers will often have no end play. Smashes or traps the needle bearing & chain runs with the shaft at idle.

Also compare the drum runout between the factory Stihl sprocket & an aftermarket by (temporarily) flipping the sprocket upside down on the needle bearing & installing a coat hangar pointer attached to the case to watch the inside gap come & go.

 

[stihl025]

Still not solving the OP problem with clutch drum rubbing but......

It’s perfectly fine. I like the discussion and brainstorming. Learning a little bit more about my saw and its variants with each post. I appreciate all of the help so far. Putting this back together, I didn’t have very many pieces left over (just a few screws here and there which may have gotten consolidated from my own collection when we moved). But I’m not done assembling everything yet either. I think that all of the parts are supposed to be with this saw and that they are not pieces from later models. I really believe that I am missing a washer or something, somewhere in the set up. There just seems to be too much lateral play. I have to order that washer, reassemble and see if it rubs.

 

[Mad Professor]

It’s perfectly fine. I like the discussion and brainstorming. Learning a little bit more about my saw and its variants with each post. I appreciate all of the help so far. Putting this back together, I didn’t have very many pieces left over (just a few screws here and there which may have gotten consolidated from my own collection when we moved). But I’m not done assembling everything yet either. I think that all of the parts are supposed to be with this saw and that they are not pieces from later models. I really believe that I am missing a washer or something, somewhere in the set up. There just seems to be too much lateral play. I have to order that washer, reassemble and see if it rubs.

One thing that might help is the serial number of the saw. The IPL shows the before/after dates for some of the parts that were changed. It also lists service bulletins with certain parts, but you'd need to be a dealer to have those.

When you have the clutch drum installed on the shaft with the washers and clips, how much play is there in and out from the clutch carrier?

There needs to be some, so the drum won't spin with the clutch at idle, but not so much the drum can move out and hit the cover. You could measure this with feeler gauges. That might give you an idea if the drum is just too far out, or it can move out with too much play.

If play seems reasonable, from there I'd look at the clutch carrier and drum thicknesses themselves.

 

[stihl025]

When you have the clutch drum installed on the shaft with the washers and clips, how much play is there in and out from the clutch carrier?

Ok, might be the last post for this problem.... Since I couldn't find my feeler gauge (which is at camp, I think), I used a penny to show the gap with everything installed. Not sure if that is normal, or excessive, but to close this gap, I used another sprocket washer against the original flat sprocket washer. Reinstalled everything and took it for a spin. Looks like that did the trick. No more melted plastic. Seems like everything is running fine. I will have to keep close eye on things as I test it in the future. If anyone has any other ideas or theories, I would love to hear them as I may be able to make it the way it was supposed to be. The whole idea of this project was to make something out of nothing and do it on a minimal budget.

 

[Mad Professor]

Glad be hear it's not rubbing anymore! Clean things up and black out the rubbing areas with a sharpie to see if parts still make any contact. I'm still not sure what the mismatched part is?

But.....from the pictures the spur type clutch drum has seen too many trees. If the chain did the same dance it is too. Replace those together sometime soon.

It's like sprockets and chain on a bicycle or motorcycle, when they are done, replace both same time.

P.S. Where in PA are you? Last NE storm places here got 3-20" snow, location made a difference, from what I glean some places in PA got 3' !!!

 

[stihl025]

Glad be hear it's not rubbing anymore! Clean things up and black out the rubbing areas with a sharpie to see if parts still make any contact. I'm still not sure what the mismatched part is?

But.....from the pictures the spur type clutch drum has seen too many trees. If the chain did the same dance it is too. Replace those together sometime soon.

It's like sprockets and chain on a bicycle or motorcycle, when they are done, replace both same time.

P.S. Where in PA are you? Last NE storm places here got 3-20" snow, location made a difference, from what I glean some places in PA got 3' !!!

It’s getting a new sprocket, bar and chain. Just needed to work the kinks out before ordering the sprocket. I am in southwestern PA about 2 minutes south of Pittsburgh. When it was all said and done, I think we got like 8”.

 

[SteveSr]

Yeah, I pretty much found out that I can’t go by the labeling on the IPL because of so many variants. I believe that is a very early version of the 028. I’m 99.9% sure that the cover is correct as it has the peninsula piece of plastic near the bar studs. The newer versions of the saw had a different cover that didn’t have that.

Also the part number stamped on the part might NOT be the same as the IPL.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Fixing a Stihl on a budget is like saying fixing a Harley on one. Unless you chicom it up.

Just not going to happen

 

[stihl025]

Fixing a Stihl on a budget is like saying fixing a Harley on one. Unless you chicom it up.

Just not going to happen

Saw was free, so anything I put into it is still considered low budget.

 

[billyboy]

Great posts gentlemen, I’m on my third 028 version. Very informative.

 

[tfp]

If you’re hanging on to the old chain check the drive links for burs and wear

 

[stihl025]

If you’re hanging on to the old chain check the drive links for burs and wear

Saw never came with a bar or chain. Stole one off my 026 to make some test cuts and verify that everything was working right. Considering a rim sprocket conversion kit. Not sure yet.

 

[Jasonrkba]

That is a nice clean saw. Once you get it dialed in you are going to be very happy with it. I sometimes use mine to clean up our horse trails just to get it some exercise.

 

[Mad Professor]

Saw never came with a bar or chain. Stole one off my 026 to make some test cuts and verify that everything was working right. Considering a rim sprocket conversion kit. Not sure yet.

That sprocket will beat up your 026 chain drivers, just use it for testing, or use a used "stumper" chain. I believe the rim kit is NLA from Stihl (I think they were 3/8" 7 pins in the kit?).

FYI, I refer to stumper chains, as those that still cut good but are worn to the point the drivers start to break off. I sharpen those one more time , then hang them on the wall for when I have to cut dirty stuff or things that might have metal inside.

Pretty sure Oregon makes a rim kit, but the rims won't interchange with Stihl ones. You can find good Sthil ones on ebay, I found one on a 028S parts carcass that came in a box with some other saws (it's on my 028S now). Might be way to go then you can swap rims, along with rest of B/C assy with the 026 too.

 

[Mad Professor]

Fixing a Stihl on a budget is like saying fixing a Harley on one. Unless you chicom it up.

Just not going to happen

That 028 is worthy of putting some time/money into.