029 super vs 361/362

[Oldsawnut]

First the 29 super is 56cc. Second I like them better than the 290's.. Third if the 029 beat the 036 361/2 than it had more to do with chain or powersaw maintenance than the saws abilitys.. All the 36 series saws are much lighter and faster in stock form than the 29 super.. Perhaps 362 weight is close but still less..

 

[SawTroll]

That's OK too. We all like a new saw and a back up saw is very nice to have. It gives you some choices and a sense of confidence when you head to the woods.

:agree2: Backup is always nice to have!

 

[SawTroll]

..... Perhaps 362 weight is close but still less..

:agree2:

 

[styles038]

Wait a minute. Updating to a 362 and than to a 70-80cc?

Skip the 362 and go to the 460 and keep the 029 or add the 261.

Have you thought about a bucket truck??:msp_biggrin:

Yes, I would like to update to a Stihl in the range of my 029S and then have a 70-80cc (leaning more toward 80) to have with a bar around 28" for the bigger trees that I have had to pass up in the past. I did see a 460 magnum on CL way out of my area (but in the area of some family who could pick it up) for $300 obo. I should send a body over to look at the condition.

:agree2: Backup is always nice to have!

But, yes. I would like to have a back-up. 261 might be a possibility, Wasn't looking to go down in displacement, but maybe.

 

[saxman]

Well in my opinion the 029 super would be great for the occasional firewood cutter/homeowner to have, there is nothing wrong with them at all. I have never owned one but have used them at work. I have several pro model Stihl saws and really like their performance, but I have them because I WANT to have them not because I NEED them, there is a big difference. Don't let anyone fool you into believing the 290/310/390 are as good as the pro saws, they are not, but are they good enough? probably.

Steve

 

[procarbine2k1]

First the 29 super is 56cc. Second I like them better than the 290's.. Third if the 029 beat the 036 361/2 than it had more to do with chain or powersaw maintenance than the saws abilitys.. All the 36 series saws are much lighter and faster in stock form than the 29 super.. Perhaps 362 weight is close but still less..

Very well could be... now that I think about it, I do keep a mean chain heheh.

 

[roostersgt]

Saxman is correct. Compare horsepower and weight, that's all that really matters. Very few people will ever wear any chainsaw out. Sure, they'll burn them up, crush them with their car or drop them from trees, but wear them out? Hardly. If you can wield an extra .7 lbs or so, save your money and buy a mid-range saw. All Stihl saws spin around the same dang rpm, check the specs. I'm not impressed with "pro" saws in dollars per pound / hp versus mid-range saws, but then again, I'm not in a race to cut a log.

A similar weight and hp saw in the mid-range user versus "pro" user saw is a draw, except one is supposedly able to last longer and is built better. I ask how? Better pistons / cylinders? Don't believe so. Better ignition module? Don't think so. Better carb? Aren't they mostly all Walbros? Better crank shafts, rings and seals? Nope. Spark plugs better? Nope, NGK or Bosch. Pistons better? Doubt it. Where's the real difference????

I believe a 4 hp saw of any lineage will perform as well as a similarly powered "pro" saw, provided they are both operated / designed within the same rpm range and are using similar chain types.
Am I missing something here? Except for how the "engine" and other extraneous outsourced parts are housed, what's the costly difference that gives the "pro" saws such value? Seems to me the "pro" saws are more prone to develope crank seal leaks due to the manner in which they are seated in the saw housing. The clam shell design appears to eliminate that.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I haven't rebuilt any saws yet, but I have absorbed a lot of information and have viewed countless videos showing saw rebuilding step-by-step on youtube. May end up buying a used project "pro" saw for giggles.

I don't saw for a living, but I'm fairly certain most here don't either, based on how often during the day / night / week they post.

 

[RAMROD48]

Saxman is correct. Compare horsepower and weight, that's all that really matters. Very few people will ever wear any chainsaw out. Sure, they'll burn them up, crush them with their car or drop them from trees, but wear them out? Hardly. If you can wield an extra .7 lbs or so, save your money and buy a mid-range saw. All Stihl saws spin around the same dang rpm, check the specs. I'm not impressed with "pro" saws in dollars per pound / hp versus mid-range saws, but then again, I'm not in a race to cut a log.

A similar weight and hp saw in the mid-range user versus "pro" user saw is a draw, except one is supposedly able to last longer and is built better. I ask how? Better pistons? Don't believe so. Better ignition module? Don't think so. Better carb? Aren't they mostly all Walbros? Better crank shafts, rings and seals? Nope. Spark plugs better? Nope, NGK or Bosch. Pistons better? Doubt it. Where's the real difference????

I believe a 4 hp saw of any lineage will perform as well as a similarly powered "pro" saw, provided they are both operated / designed within the same rpm range and are using similar chain types.
Am I missing something here? Except for how the "engine" and other extraneous outsourced parts are housed, what's the costly difference that gives the "pro" saws such value? Seems to me the "pro" saws are more prone to develope crank seal leaks due to the manner in which they are seated in the saw housing. The clam shell design appears to eliminate that.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I haven't rebuilt any saws yet, but I have absorbed a lot of information and have viewed countless videos showing saw rebuilding step-by-step on youtube. May end up buying a used project "pro" saw for giggles.

I don't saw for a living, but I'm fairly certain most here don't either, based on how often during the day / night / week they post.

You have made that abundantly clear with your nonsense ramblings....:msp_thumbdn:

 

[Mad Professor]

An Analogy, is buying a late 60's early 70's 350 chevy

You can get a 2-bolt main, low perf heads, cast crankshaft, etc......350 chevy in a Caprice, maybe 200HP

Or a 370 HP corvette/Z-28 , that has all the goodies, from the factory ( 4-bolt mains, windage tray, solid lifter cam, 2.02 heads....)

The former can be modded, but never to the level of the latter.

The latter can run with "bigger" dogs, and bite their arse!

 

[roostersgt]

Understood they can be "modded" , but I'm talking about factory speck'd hp to hp. They're the same. Horse power is the same, rpm the same, they cut the same, Period.

Ramrod,

What ramblings would you be referring to? Want me to draw you pictures?

 

[roostersgt]

All hp is rated at the crank and we all know chainsaws run off the crank. So, it doesn't matter what brand or cc a saw is, if it is rated correctly and accuratetly, the same as another saw, they should run equally.

A 400 hp Camaro weighing 2600 lbs with similar gearing in the rearend should run the same quarter mile time as a similarly weighted and powered Mustang utilizing the same rearend gearing. Been there, done that. Too close to call.

Ramrod,

Where's your pointing out my "ramblings"?

 

[Oldsawnut]

Roostersgt, one thing you could probably appreciate is the 036 361 is much easier to work on than the 29. Since you are mechanically inclined.. If you ever get a chance to pull them apart you will be surprised at how much better designed the pro saws are to work on..

 

[RAMROD48]

All hp is rated at the crank and we all know chainsaws run off the crank. So, it doesn't matter what brand or cc a saw is, if it is rated correctly and accuratetly, the same as another saw, they should run equally.

A 400 hp Camaro weighing 2600 lbs with similar gearing in the rearend should run the same quarter mile time as a similarly weighted and powered Mustang utilizing the same rearend gearing. Been there, done that. Too close to call.

Ramrod,

Where's your pointing out my "ramblings"?

You want me to just copy and paste what myself and others have said?? We have pointed out the differences if you cant read it in the previous posts what makes you think you will comprehend it any different now?

 

[procarbine2k1]

Rooster, I think you are spot on bud!

Like Ive said before, some people will have the mentality that "PRO" saws are good saws, "consumer" saws are bad saws. Ive seen many, many guys on here ask what makes a Pro saw a Pro saw. Many times, the first response is the whole "clamshell" theory... many seem to think that if the saw does not utilize a bolt on cylinder, it must be a throw away.

I feel that manufacturer life expectancy, or intended hour usage is the division between a throw away saw, and one that will be handed down a generation. JMO on this one, but between the above- and the skill of the operator defines the "Pro" saw status.
I think that there is a TON of great advice on this forum, I know that it has helped me out quite a bit! But I do feel that sometimes members chime in on equipment that they havent experienced, and sometimes lead the curious away from a saw that would perfectly fit their needs!
I do have no bias in this argument, I own mostly "Pro" saws- but would NEVER pass up an opportunity to own a saw that some would feel didnt meet the "Pro" expectation.
Some saws that I feel were built to last a lifetime of hard use, that never received "Pro" status? 024, 028, 031, 041... to name a few.

 

[RAMROD48]

Just to make it clear, I think that the 025/250 is one of the best saws Stihl makes (best bang for your $$)

So dont think I am against the clamshell design....

But when you get to the 290/310/390 size, there are MUCH better choices...

 

[procarbine2k1]

Just to make it clear, I think that the 025/250 is one of the best saws Stihl makes (best bang for your $$)

So dont think I am against the clamshell design....

But when you get to the 290/310/390 size, there are MUCH better choices...

No doubt! It comes down to past experiences with mentioned saws, and those experiences that have shaped what works for us.

 

[indiansprings]

I'm with Brad on this one, I wouldn't even mention a 029S in the same breath as a 361. The same with the 025/250 and a 028.
I had a 310 .........for about a week and it was give to me with a busted oil tank and got a used assembly for free off my dealer.
My mm 361 just handed it it's azz imho, power, weight, and handling. I've ran 029/290 and they are a great homeowners saw, will last them a life time. The only other saw I hated worse than the 310 was a 250 with the ez start feature after I had my first back surgery. The dealer assured me that it would out cut my 028, he's not wrong often, but he missed that one by a mile. I owned the 250 for about three or four days, I thought it was the most pathetic saw I'd ever owned. Sorry to the guys who love them, it just didn't fit in our mix. I was far more impressed by our MM 180.
I still have that little saw, doesn't get used as much as it should since the boy bought his 200T.

 

[Mad Professor]

Understood they can be "modded" , but I'm talking about factory speck'd hp to hp. They're the same. Horse power is the same, rpm the same, they cut the same, Period.

Ramrod,

What ramblings would you be referring to? Want me to draw you pictures?

Well, work on each one. See how much fun a 029 is.

And they do not cut the same, or feel the same., in the cut.

Think of a large body cleaning woman, and a 21 year old model.

P.S. the model will look a lot better at 40! or 50!

 

[RAMROD48]

I'm with Brad on this one, I wouldn't even mention a 029S in the same breath as a 361. The same with the 025/250 and a 028.
I had a 310 .........for about a week and it was give to me with a busted oil tank and got a used assembly for free off my dealer.
My mm 361 just handed it it's azz imho, power, weight, and handling. I've ran 029/290 and they are a great homeowners saw, will last them a life time. The only other saw I hated worse than the 310 was a 250 with the ez start feature after I had my first back surgery. The dealer assured me that it would out cut my 028, he's not wrong often, but he missed that one by a mile. I owned the 250 for about three or four days, I thought it was the most pathetic saw I'd ever owned. Sorry to the guys who love them, it just didn't fit in our mix. I was far more impressed by our MM 180.
I still have that little saw, doesn't get used as much as it should since the boy bought his 200T.

I dont care for the EZ2Start feature either...

I wish i could have had a chance to open the muffler on that 250 for you though...they respond very well to simply reshaping the deflector slightly (opening it up)

 

[nmurph]

A MM361 should and will out cut a stock 310. But if you flip that around the results will be embarrisingly similar. A 361 is definitely easier to work on and does handle better, but the difference in the handling department isn't as huge as some might think. I certainly prefer the 361, but a 310 is a very serviceable and durable saw that will drop many trees for the average cutter.