NeoTree
ArboristSite Guru
Ok will give it a shot, I tried just putting it in the vice and bending it by hand and got it close, but was apprehensive to do so. Again sorry for the hijack.
044 binding in 20" pine
- Thread starter adam0321
- Start date
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Ok will give it a shot, I tried just putting it in the vice and bending it by hand and got it close, but was apprehensive to do so. Again sorry for the hijack.
dingeryote
Blueberry Baron
Have you checked to see if the oil port and bar passages line up when mounted?
You wouldn't be the first guy to buy a wonky POS bar that is out of spec. off of E-bay.
Somethings definately goofy with the bar.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
briggstwiggs
ArboristSite Lurker
There are a couple of little plastik pieces that snapp into the chain cover if they are missing it will cut like crap like what your saying and also wont oil the chain that great check and make shure you have them before any thing cause there only a dollar a piece or somthing for them thats one of the first things i check if the saw starts cutting bad usually if everything seems to be spinning correct and sounds good its usually those or there is a lip on the bar that needs to be ground down. I have also blown tips on new bars and that could be a problem to. take your finger and spin the tips on the bar if its not a smooth turn its probably blown.
Wishie22
ArboristSite Operative
Was thinking the same thing. Have had a couple new bars than needed some attention, from paint needing to be reamed out to re-drilling ports in the proper area to function properly.
At this point I would remove all debris from the track, oil ports, and check that the gap is consistent all the way around the bar. Spinning the sprocket and fishing out all extra trapped crud between the sprocket and bar as well, paper clip or bobby pin work well for this.
I would also check the that the rails have not build up a burr since running hot as previously recommended.
Wishie22
ArboristSite Operative
I just lay it flat on a straight 2x6 or 2x8, softens the blow some so the bar doesn't get dimpled where the vice edge that is touching the bar may. Use 6x6 pieces of wood for straighting out mower-blades as well, except I heat them with a torch first.
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porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
Has this happened in any other wood but this one Pine? Why I ask is my 66 was running a 28", chunking the trunk of a big Pine, like 36" or bigger. Saw was hauling AZZ as usual and all of a sudden came to a sudden stop. Engine sounded fine so I knew it wasn't that. The bar was HOT, so hot the chain wouldn't roll. The oiler was turned up all the way, which is where I keep all my saws. Bar/chain was ES/RSC.
It took me some time to get the chain and bar off because of the lock-up. Now I'm thinking the sproket bearings went out, but it was a new bar.
Turns out this trunk was somewhat rotted inside and the rot was dry like flour. I cleaned the bar grove and re-assembled only to cut 30 seconds more and the same thing happened. That powder just locked up the sproket. After it cooled it was all I could do to turn it with the scrench.
First and last time in my life this has ever happened. I cut the bad out, used the backhoe to roll it onto the burn pile and was thankful nothing ended up seized over this. Pine Powder I call it, black/brown and fine as flour.
It took me some time to get the chain and bar off because of the lock-up. Now I'm thinking the sproket bearings went out, but it was a new bar.
Turns out this trunk was somewhat rotted inside and the rot was dry like flour. I cleaned the bar grove and re-assembled only to cut 30 seconds more and the same thing happened. That powder just locked up the sproket. After it cooled it was all I could do to turn it with the scrench.
First and last time in my life this has ever happened. I cut the bad out, used the backhoe to roll it onto the burn pile and was thankful nothing ended up seized over this. Pine Powder I call it, black/brown and fine as flour.
treemandan
Tree Freak
Well a sharp running 44 will choke if let loose.
Terry L
ArboristSite Member
bar and chain binding
It is possible that your full complement, or standard chain, (not full skip or semi-skip) is creating too many chips for the chain to pull out. That can bind a bar in the kerf, but it shouldn't make the bar hot. Try a full skip chain on that 28" bar and see if that makes a difference. You should be running out of bar oil at about the same time you run out of fuel, so get that problem fixed first.
Running the wrong gauge chain is definitely a possibility, as a previous writer wrote. What are the numbers on the drivers of the chain? If it is an Oregon chain, 72 is 50 gauge (50 thousands of an inch), 73 is 58, and 75 is 63 gauge. Stihl: 3 for 50 gauge and 6 for 63 gauge. Some saw shops get cheap deals on 58 gauge chain, then sell it to anyone that walks in the store. It won't work unless your bar is worn (worn out really) if it a 50 gauge bar. Good luck.
It is possible that your full complement, or standard chain, (not full skip or semi-skip) is creating too many chips for the chain to pull out. That can bind a bar in the kerf, but it shouldn't make the bar hot. Try a full skip chain on that 28" bar and see if that makes a difference. You should be running out of bar oil at about the same time you run out of fuel, so get that problem fixed first.
Running the wrong gauge chain is definitely a possibility, as a previous writer wrote. What are the numbers on the drivers of the chain? If it is an Oregon chain, 72 is 50 gauge (50 thousands of an inch), 73 is 58, and 75 is 63 gauge. Stihl: 3 for 50 gauge and 6 for 63 gauge. Some saw shops get cheap deals on 58 gauge chain, then sell it to anyone that walks in the store. It won't work unless your bar is worn (worn out really) if it a 50 gauge bar. Good luck.
Re: 044 binding
Hi, A number of other posters have given very good suggestions and those need to be checked. I will give a couple more. If memory serves, the Stihl manuals say the oil tank is just enough larger in capacity to allow a bit of oil to be left in it when the fuel tank is empty. So that if you forget to fill it with oil when refueling you have a bit of leeway. Three tanks of fuel to one of oil seems way wrong. What was the ratio with the 20 inch bar? If the new 28 inch bar is not a Stihl brand bar and the ratio of tanks of fuel to tanks of oil are not the same between the two bars I would look at the bars and see if the oil holes match on the two bars. If anything the 28 incher should consume more oil than the 20 inch bar.
All of my Stihls (4) follow the rule of one tank oil to one tank fuel. That's the way they came from the factory.
I hope this helps.
Eljefe
Hi, A number of other posters have given very good suggestions and those need to be checked. I will give a couple more. If memory serves, the Stihl manuals say the oil tank is just enough larger in capacity to allow a bit of oil to be left in it when the fuel tank is empty. So that if you forget to fill it with oil when refueling you have a bit of leeway. Three tanks of fuel to one of oil seems way wrong. What was the ratio with the 20 inch bar? If the new 28 inch bar is not a Stihl brand bar and the ratio of tanks of fuel to tanks of oil are not the same between the two bars I would look at the bars and see if the oil holes match on the two bars. If anything the 28 incher should consume more oil than the 20 inch bar.
All of my Stihls (4) follow the rule of one tank oil to one tank fuel. That's the way they came from the factory.
I hope this helps.
Eljefe
