050 051 075 076 Info Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Good stuff, I checked that out myself this morning and you and sefh are spot on. I think when I do it Ill tape off one side after I grind it and just fill the pocket with JB Weld to reinforce it. Nice pics. Looks like were all posting at the same time, lol!!!
 
Just be careful when cutting the tank down. If you go too far into the tank you will create a hole and fuel will leak from there when tipped up. JB Weld works good to fill in the hole if needed.

The area where clearance is needed does not actually form part of the actual tank. It is only if you chose to chamfer where the HT lead comes into contact with the trailing edge that you may come into problems. That isn't necessary though as you can just unclip the HT lead and reroute it though.
 
Good stuff...., Nice pics.... Looks like were all posting at the same time, lol!!!

Great to see all the activity and the thread so revitalized!

But I gotta say it sure seems like a lot o' work just to convert to the pawl setup when the 1106-190-4600 friction shoe replacement kit is still available for around $12!!! As for converting from the points ignition..., my points 051 has spark ya could weld with, so I guess I don't get quite get that either.

But hey, if it weren't fun, right???!!!

So DDave...., whatchya gonna do with all those extree parts? I need another project like another hole in the head, but....., again, hmmmm....:dumb:

Anyhoo..., cheers, fellas!:cheers:
 
Oh and Darrel I had a elastostart handle break in my hand and tear at my fingers. Must have been the cold but that new fancy handle hurt me Never had or wanted another one since!
 
Oh and Darrel I had a elastostart handle break in my hand and tear at my fingers. Must have been the cold but that new fancy handle hurt me Never had or wanted another one since!
Thanks for the warning! I put one on my 195# 046. So far, so good. But that 1100 Husky used to snap the **** out of me, til' I figured out to keep my fingers clear...most ot the time.
 
I overlayed the tank gasket on top of the recoil housing so you can see that where the clearance is needed does not actually form part of the "fuel tank". The area you open up is exposed to atmosphere from the otherside in stock form anyway, hence, the fine dust.
dsc00827-jpg.392578


dsc00829-jpg.392579


dsc00831-jpg.392580


Just to clarify I only did this to make the -1301 coil fit the friction shoe tank. I still used the -1202 friction flywheel. The -1303 module over here runs at £110 or $165!!!:envy:
I don't think it would ever be feasible to fit the pawl system inside the 075 friction tank. The 075 friction tank uses a 12.5mm shaft whereas the 076 uses 10mm. They appear to be splined shafts that would need pressing out and then you would have to custom make a shaft 12.5mm splined one end and 10mm the other. The shafts are different depths with respect to the crankcase face also.:dizzy:
 

Attachments

  • DSC00827.JPG
    DSC00827.JPG
    53.4 KB
  • DSC00829.JPG
    DSC00829.JPG
    67.8 KB
  • DSC00831.JPG
    DSC00831.JPG
    56.9 KB
We love pics! Thanks! Over here you could get the new pawl tank for 50 and the flywheel to go with it for 20 and I just picked up a coil with trigger for 30 so I guess that's around a 100$ to convert. Nice job JD
 
Too cold out to even look at the garage this week, I got some OEM seals and parts in so it felt like I made progress even though I basically did nothing.

I guess I don't care which starter setup I use as long as I don't have the goofy orange rectangle style badge and removable screen cover on the recoil, that may seem childish, but truth be told I don't need the saw at all and am building it completely for fun so if I make a compromise for the sake of simplicity, every time I look up at it on the wall, I will hate the saw. Once is starts and revs up and gets tuned it will get drained and become a wall hanger. I am not sure I have any of the guts for the Pawl style now, the one assembled narrow case with the recoil installed may actually be the pieces that fit inside the friction cup. If the friction style works, I may just get the rebuild kit Poge mentioned.
Never worked on a saw with points, I am hoping I have or can get a regular "coil" like used on modern saws for this project. I got the chain brake clutch cover disassembled and ready for powdercoating, but I am sure I have a good 2-4 hours of crankcase disassembly left before parts can ship off.
DDave
IMG_5649_zps4abcdef4.jpg
 
Thats funny Dave, I never played with points since the 70's and ski doo points always gave me trouble. The aftermarket junk I was getting couldnt hold a candle to the old Bosch stuff and it was just a nightmare. Never could get them right. Give me a CDI anyday!!! Hey Dave if you feel like parting with a case I'll buy one from you for a fair price. Sell me the worst one, with blown bearings and the like. I always split them to the bone anyway :) I just scored a coil with trigger for 30$ off flea bay, took a chance and low and behold she fires like a champ! Woo Hoo!! Now I just need another case for another build. Unemployed and trying to make child support and pay for colleges. Not easy being Dad :)
 
Too cold out to even look at the garage this week, I got some OEM seals and parts in so it felt like I made progress even though I basically did nothing.

I guess I don't care which starter setup I use as long as I don't have the goofy orange rectangle style badge and removable screen cover on the recoil, that may seem childish, but truth be told I don't need the saw at all and am building it completely for fun so if I make a compromise for the sake of simplicity, every time I look up at it on the wall, I will hate the saw. Once is starts and revs up and gets tuned it will get drained and become a wall hanger. I am not sure I have any of the guts for the Pawl style now, the one assembled narrow case with the recoil installed may actually be the pieces that fit inside the friction cup. If the friction style works, I may just get the rebuild kit Poge mentioned.
Never worked on a saw with points, I am hoping I have or can get a regular "coil" like used on modern saws for this project. I got the chain brake clutch cover disassembled and ready for powdercoating, but I am sure I have a good 2-4 hours of crankcase disassembly left before parts can ship off.
DDave
IMG_5649_zps4abcdef4.jpg
You mean you don't have that pallet in the middle of the living room floor, next to the fire? After all, it was Xmas when you got it.

At first, I didn't care for the looks of that starter either. In the end, that was the one I pursued, I'm kind of going for a newer look. Only thing about that starter, it makes the ol' girl's butt bigger than it already was.

If you don't have a coil or module, they don't seem too hard to come by. I went the "module" route, it just seems a little tidier, having everything in one piece.
 
Bigger gas tank means longer milling time. Les chance of filling during the middle of a cut :) Just tested the comp on the 076 I just built, 175#'s, whoo hoo!! Wont be an accurate reading until I run the saw some, still encouraging though. A son of a gun to pull over without the decomp!!
 
I overlayed the tank gasket on top of the recoil housing so you can see that where the clearance is needed does not actually form part of the "fuel tank". The area you open up is exposed to atmosphere from the otherside in stock form anyway, hence, the fine dust.

I wonder why they eliminated the fiberglass wrap around on the bigger 075 starter cup. It works well on the 045's and really helps the cup keep its shape. Without them you sometime see the cup getting "out of round" and banged up looking.
dsc00827-jpg.392578


dsc00829-jpg.392579


dsc00831-jpg.392580


Just to clarify I only did this to make the -1301 coil fit the friction shoe tank. I still used the -1202 friction flywheel. The -1303 module over here runs at £110 or $165!!!:envy:
I don't think it would ever be feasible to fit the pawl system inside the 075 friction tank. The 075 friction tank uses a 12.5mm shaft whereas the 076 uses 10mm. They appear to be splined shafts that would need pressing out and then you would have to custom make a shaft 12.5mm splined one end and 10mm the other. The shafts are different depths with respect to the crankcase face also.:dizzy:
 
Just put some paint on the muffler guard and sprocket cover, cant hurt! Waiting for Baileys "free" shipping on the chain. Must me pony express!! lol
 
Back
Top