050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[Rockfarmer]

If the compression is good maybe just a "makeover" is warranted I dismantle a lot of chop saws made in Brazil and they basically went to torx screws. They have a larger head and ridges that are semi "locking". I like how they take up the whole hole in tank to prevent movement and keep centered. Upon final assembly I apply locktight and screw as tight as I can get them. Try tightening when dissembling and see if you can get the threads to strip. If you can good, fix with permacoil or better keysert. If not good. You might want to find out why the cylinder was full of oil. My dad did it to an 041 fb for storage. If she's smoking when running fill the oil and run it. Open the oil cap running and look for air bubbles, case leak. Also real easy to pressure test, can make one for under 10$. Tank, muffler mounts, intake and exhaust on the jug. One out of 15 a stripped m6 for cylinder rods going into case, I've messed up more than one trying to fix!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I kept my 051 original for aesthetic reasons but didn't do a complete rebuild, either. I also don't run it often enough to be concerned with fasteners backing out. If I were to rebuild any of the 1111 saws for actual use I would convert to torx cap fasteners and use lots of Loc-Tite!

 

[arrow13]

I just got a 075 that wouldn't start, turned out the cylinder was full of bar oil. Anyway it runs strong now all that's cleaned out and I want to give it a rebuild, are you 051/075/076 rebuilders replacing the screws with Allen or Stihl screws to stop them becoming loose?

I like using lock-tite, medium strength. Many of the new fasteners have some type of sealant on the threads.
I like the new Stihl screws, when they can fit. Consider the head size for fitting.

 

[raumati01]

Thanks for all the advice , not sure why it's been sitting for so long. It has a long bar on it and seems in decent shape otherwise. I think replacing the gaskets seals and bearings is probably a must if it's going to be a mill.

 

[Rockfarmer]

Nothing like cookies baked from scratch I split the case on a rebuild 3 times once! Slight learning curve! Lol!

 

[DaveLindsay]

RF. Thanks for the link I've only checked out one of the vids so far but it looks pretty good.
Regards DaveL.

 

[NathanInAdelaide]

Hi All,
Just to follow up. I had an 075 with a leaky case. Leaking from the oiler adjuster. Replaced the o-rings and it still leaked.
Took out the oiler adjuster again to check the bore and to my great surprise one of the o-ring had broken. Haven't seen that much but it solved my problem so you have to be happy with that. Now the case is tight the rings are new, albiet Huztl not one of the more known AM brands. When I look to measure compression is there a break in time? Is it likely to get any better with a couple of tanks through it? I have measured compression straight away at about 140 which is close to where the saw was before I started this crusade..... Which is sort of demoralising to say the least!

I have read that compression measurements are a bit here and there with other saws too and this is my experience. Have a ms180 which came straight up to 170 on first test after replacing piston and polishing bore but a husky 340 which is at about 110 but runs well after new cylinder and piston (Huztl)??
Interesting anyway.

Not sure if I should go through the same procedure with an 076 i have here with 140 psi compression too? or just leave it and cut away....


Cheers
Nathan

 

[Rockfarmer]

Nathan did you check ring gap before installing? I think the speck is .003-.008. Just put the ring in the jug and push it square with the piston and check gap. I've seen them as much as .025 and still running. If you have large gap with new rings you have a worn jug. Caber or Stihl are the only rings I use. Check compression warm with throttle wide open. They should seat in a bit but I bit your cylinder is worn. If she runs, run it!!!

 

[NathanInAdelaide]

Thanks Rocky. I didnt check the ring gaps. Not sure if i want to pull the whole thing down again... have the 076 so might do the test with that. Will try a warm compression measurement as soon as i can get some time cutting.

Dont suppose i can check the ring gap (at least one anyway) through the ports? Cant remember how it lays out..

 

[Rockfarmer]

No the rings would catch the ports if they stopped at the port openings. We used to get carbon buildup in the ring grooves of old outboard motors pistons and the rings would finally get pushed out so far they'd catch a port and blow the motor. With the new synthetic oils there are detergents that minimize carbon. Anyhow if she runs, starts, idles all that happy stuff just work that pony!

 

[NathanInAdelaide]

Righto. Nice reasoning!. Makes sense to me! Now to find me a hunk of wood to mill.

May see if i can put a photo up too. Saws are much rougher than the showroom ones you have, at least at the moment. Cheers

 

[Rockfarmer]

I've got some great saws that would scare the dark out of a closet but they run like the wind! I too have a few logs I can't wait to mill when I get some time!!

 

[Ms290man]

Just found this thread, lots of good info here! Hopefully it will help me build a few units out of this pile I picked up last weekend....

 

[raumati01]

View attachment 591461 Just found this thread, lots of good info here! Hopefully it will help me build a few units out of this pile I picked up last weekend....

[Checks attic, finds very similar pile still there] Good score mate.

 

[Rockfarmer]

View attachment 591461 Just found this thread, lots of good info here! Hopefully it will help me build a few units out of this pile I picked up last weekend....

Holy moly!!! Talk about some great diamonds in the rough!!!

 

[Ms290man]

View attachment 591461 Just found this thread, lots of good info here! Hopefully it will help me build a few units out of this pile I picked up last weekend....

Got a nice 051 running so far. Put together kits for an 076, 041, 075. Missing a few smalls but I'm gonna have a few runners when I'm done. And a bunch of left over parts....

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yessir, that's a nice one.

 

[Rockfarmer]

Hey Dave, So here's a couple pics of the internals of the 1111 series saw brake. The fist pic is a brand new brake in the engaged position. The second is a used brake in the ready or loose position. The third is the brake engaged tight around the clutch hub with a new band just lying on to for visual reference. Hope this helps! B

 

[DaveLindsay]

thats awesome RF thanks a lot the iPad is going to town today
Regards DaveLindsay

 

[Rockfarmer]

I have never seen the (17) style of brake band only the 16. The note says 17 was (04.1982) for whatever that's worth. I'm sure Stihl has gone and changed the part number again to keep us baffled beyond belief and give up to buy the latest and greatest orange and grey plastic screamer they have!!!