050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[brandonstc6]

I've seen $29.99 Tecomec cylinder and piston kits on eBay for the 051. I wonder if they are any good. I don't need one tho.


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[Rockfarmer]

I want to say that HL has the meteor pistons, one of the only am ones I trust. I still spring for the caber rings thou.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The Tecomec stuff is (was?) nice. They did the AM thing for a while then stopped. HLS made a large buy and are now clearing it out. (And Meteor pistons come with Caber rings, btw.)

Could also check with a reputable Stihl dealer for OEM piston prices as they have come way down since Stihl is making their own now (according to the only reputable Stihl dealer in my area). Meteor is actually higher than Stihl in many cases.

 

[Rockfarmer]

I wish I could find a reputable Stihl dealer. In my area they are subbed out to hardware stores that carry weed wackers and that's about it. The biggest dealer here I tried ordering stuff from and they just can't handle it. Part numbers have changed too many times, parts back ordered and it was a three month mess. I gave up. Stihl has created a black market for their own parts and I think it's just very bad buisness. It's an online world and time they sell like the other big boys!!

 

[bulletpruf]

Have several saws (760, 076 Super, 075, 051) that I'm starting to go through. What are you guys using to split the cases? A store bought splitter or homemade?

And I'm in need of a few items - if anyone has a good lower rear handle, I need one. And could use a good clutch cover for a saw without a chain brake.

Also, is anyone modding the mufflers on these? If original, they should have a baffle, right? And you would need to cut the muffler in two, remove or drill out the baffle, and then weld or braze it back together? The prior owner of my junky 075 modded the muffler; looks like thats what he did.

Rockfarmer - I have a TS760 case if you're interested; saw from an earlier post that you use these for your rebuilds. It's the later model without provisions for a chain tensioner. Didn't check to see if all the finish machining was done for the oiler. It's pretty clean, but I only wanted the jug and piston. it's yours for the cost of shipping - probably $15 or so.

Scott

 

[Rockfarmer]

To split the case I use a husky case splitter that I modified. I ground down the width of the prongs so they fit inside the case and spread the prongs so they fit over the crank. Punch the two pins out and 10 screws and it’s a 30 second procedure. If the bearing race is worn, case is worn or crank is worn the case will literally fall apart.
I have in the past drilled 3 small holes in the bottom of the muffler for more flow. I don’t know the size of the baffle inside but I will cut one apart as I’m curious now.
Thank you Scott for your generous offer but the newer TS cases can’t be swapped. I have 4 or 5 sitting and I’ve had a TS listed for over a year now that won’t sell. My price must be too high, lol!!!
The rear handle can be bought new from the dealer for 79 or you could buy another parts TS and grab the handle. The sprocket covers are a little harder to find but they pop up on eBay and I’m sure guys on this site may be of more help than I.
We all live pics and are looking forward to you rebuilding these awesome saws!!!! B

 

[bulletpruf]

RF - thanks for the pics. I have the same splitter, but I haven't ground it down or widened it yet. Ended up getting one split the same way I've been doing the Contra's - remove screws and pins, then break the seal on the gasket with a razor blade, then thread the nuts on the crank and whack the nut with a hammer while holding the case. Or you can smack the case with a rubber mallet. Anyway, I'll mod my splitter so it will work on these cases; that'll be quicker and easier.

Got one of my 075's apart and realized water had been sitting in the crankcase. Bearings shot and there was a fair amount of corrosion, so I junked the case. I have a spare case that I'll use to build it. It'll be a mismatch of parts by the time I'm done -- will use a crank from a TS760 (I'm assuming they're the same) and a spare P&C from another saw, too.

Scott

 

[Rockfarmer]

Magnesium corrodes fairly quickly if paint is stripped, sits wet or on concrete. If I do strip a case bare and don’t have time to coat it I’ll leave it in the parts washer till I’m ready. Then it’s gets the ultrasonic cleaner bath and a 20 min bake at 400 to remove any oils in the porous magnesium.
I like the reversed screw trick, thanks for that! B

 

[bulletpruf]

Magnesium corrodes fairly quickly if paint is stripped, sits wet or on concrete. If I do strip a case bare and don’t have time to coat it I’ll leave it in the parts washer till I’m ready. Then it’s gets the ultrasonic cleaner bath and a 20 min bake at 400 to remove any oils in the porous magnesium.
I like the reversed screw trick, thanks for that! B

I usually hit mine with a dose of chlorinated brake cleaner and then hit it with compressed air blast. That does a pretty good job of getting rid of any residue, but I'm going to try baking it, too.

Speaking of baking, can you share some of your powder coat tips? Wondering what setup you're using - Eastwood? Are you mixing your own powder up or using off the shelf colors?

I'm more of a spray paint kind of guy, but I've been pulling my hair out trying to get the right paint here -- I can find it on Amazon (Ford tractor light gray - maybe Seymour? - the one that most folks recommend), but for the life of me, I can't get it shipped here. And it's not sold in Europe that I can find.

Thanks

Scott

 

[Rockfarmer]

Hey Scott! I do use the Eastwood powder gun and prep solution. I got a lot of tips on coating from a member on here “Glock...” and owe him the credit. Very helpful and even walked me thru it on the phone, very helpful!! He also pointed me to the eBay vendor with the right colors. They sell in bulk and the powder comes in bags. I’ll look it up when I get a chance. When I bought my house I got new appliances for the kitchen and took my old electric oven and installed it in the garage. Any fumes from baking (and it’s a lot!) go out the garage door and stay out of the house. Once I get in the groove I strip with aircraft paint stripper, sandblast, U Clean, sand, heat, coat, bake and keep things rolling on a 20 min rotation. I wear Bluetooth headphones with music and timer going to stay on schedule. With the compressor going and the vacuum going on the cabinet the headphones block the noise and I don’t miss the timer. I try to bust out a few parts once I get things going. It’s actually really enjoyable to see the finish product vs the mess I started with. The biggest thing about coating is the prep. Every screw hole, race, surface that gets a gasket needs to be covered. Once it’s coated it very tough to remove for correct assembly. I see my favorite vendor Arlington Washington is carrying Stihl grey paint. Yes lots use Ford tractor grey. The cheap stuff scratches right off. My buddy in Texas uses a high quality grey that’s spot on and very durable ( not sure what is is). Where in Europe are you? Just curious

 

[bulletpruf]

Hey Scott! I do use the Eastwood powder gun and prep solution. I got a lot of tips on coating from a member on here “Glock...” and owe him the credit. Very helpful and even walked me thru it on the phone, very helpful!! He also pointed me to the eBay vendor with the right colors. They sell in bulk and the powder comes in bags. I’ll look it up when I get a chance. When I bought my house I got new appliances for the kitchen and took my old electric oven and installed it in the garage. Any fumes from baking (and it’s a lot!) go out the garage door and stay out of the house. Once I get in the groove I strip with aircraft paint stripper, sandblast, U Clean, sand, heat, coat, bake and keep things rolling on a 20 min rotation. I wear Bluetooth headphones with music and timer going to stay on schedule. With the compressor going and the vacuum going on the cabinet the headphones block the noise and I don’t miss the timer. I try to bust out a few parts once I get things going. It’s actually really enjoyable to see the finish product vs the mess I started with. The biggest thing about coating is the prep. Every screw hole, race, surface that gets a gasket needs to be covered. Once it’s coated it very tough to remove for correct assembly. I see my favorite vendor Arlington Washington is carrying Stihl grey paint. Yes lots use Ford tractor grey. The cheap stuff scratches right off. My buddy in Texas uses a high quality grey that’s spot on and very durable ( not sure what is is). Where in Europe are you? Just curious

Thanks for the details on the powder coating. The fumes are pretty much a deal breaker for me -- the Long Haired General (my lovely wife) wouldn't be real happy about that.

Interesting tha you use the aircraft stripper. I'm a fan of that stuff, too, but it's real messy. I also don't use it too often on aluminum or magnesium, and if I do, I don't leave it on for long. I've been sandblasting most of my stuff.

Lousy day in the garage today. I did a partial disassembly on my 076 Super. It is really beat up. Not sure I'll be able to use the case.

And the 051 had some good parts, but not sure I can use that case, either.

Will probably look for a TS760 case to use.

Thanks

Scott

 

[Rockfarmer]

Non structural stuff on the case can be fixed with marine jbweld. It is magnetic and holds up well. I did fix a broken upper handle mount one time with it, full disclosure to the customer with a follow up and it didn’t fail. In fact he did buy a second saw as well. I’m not scared to use it!! Prep is key as is to anything!
The aircraft mess goes in a cardboard box and airs out outside as it evaporates then the paint scrapings go in the trash. I use chemical industrial gloves and in the winter in the shed I’ll use a respirator with carbon filters. Toxic and dangerous but a wicked time saver! B

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Redneck case splitter...

Piece of uni-strut and a two jaw puller.​

 

[bulletpruf]

Non structural stuff on the case can be fixed with marine jbweld. It is magnetic and holds up well. I did fix a broken upper handle mount one time with it, full disclosure to the customer with a follow up and it didn’t fail. In fact he did buy a second saw as well. I’m not scared to use it!! Prep is key as is to anything!
The aircraft mess goes in a cardboard box and airs out outside as it evaporates then the paint scrapings go in the trash. I use chemical industrial gloves and in the winter in the shed I’ll use a respirator with carbon filters. Toxic and dangerous but a wicked time saver! B

Do you find this is superior to the regular formula of JB Weld? I use a fair amount of it for non-load bearing/non-stressed areas, too.

Thanks

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

Redneck case splitter...

Piece of uni-strut and a two jaw puller.​

That looks like it will do the trick!

I need to make a redneck flywheel puller for older Jonsereds. I fabbed up something quick a few days ago but it wasn't strong enough.

 

[Rockfarmer]

Do you find this is superior to the regular formula of JB Weld? I use a fair amount of it for non-load bearing/non-stressed areas, too.

Thanks

Scott

Yes, it’s more expensive and I can only find it in the little tubes but it has metal or more metal than regular stuff. Sometimes I have to do layers to build areas out. They say it can be tapped and drilled but I’ve tried that and it’s borderline so no not good enough for me. Areas like flywheel side of case the two front tank mount screw holes get stripped so I fill in the cavity’s beside the holes to beef up the area the I can over drill it and install a keysert where before there was not enough meat to make a good purchase on the case. Once a key sert is installed it’s bulletproof. You can crank on that screw till you snap it but you won’t strip the threads! B

Update on powder coating colors. Absolute powder grey 7035 and HG Orange have been the colors I’m using! Cheers, B

 

[bulletpruf]

Yes, it’s more expensive and I can only find it in the little tubes but it has metal or more metal than regular stuff. Sometimes I have to do layers to build areas out. They say it can be tapped and drilled but I’ve tried that and it’s borderline so no not good enough for me. Areas like flywheel side of case the two front tank mount screw holes get stripped so I fill in the cavity’s beside the holes to beef up the area the I can over drill it and install a keysert where before there was not enough meat to make a good purchase on the case. Once a key sert is installed it’s bulletproof. You can crank on that screw till you snap it but you won’t strip the threads! B

Update on powder coating colors. Absolute powder grey 7035 and HG Orange have been the colors I’m using! Cheers, B

Good tip on the keysert and JB Weld. I have to take a closer look at my 076 Super case halves to see if they can be salvaged. If they can be saved, I'll definitely need a bit of JB Weld and some keyserts.

 

[WidowMaker_1]

Also, is anyone modding the mufflers on these? If original, they should have a baffle, right? And you would need to cut the muffler in two, remove or drill out the baffle, and then weld or braze it back together? The prior owner of my junky 075 modded the muffler; looks like thats what he did.

Scott

Stock mufflers are very restricted, there a maze of baffle plates and holes the exhaust has to weave push itself back and forth threw, Plus a narrow long header pipe.

I cut mine in half and cut all the guts out and grinded the header pipe smoother to flow better, and fabed a new front with twin port outlets. Made it a whole different saw, really livened it up!

 

[Rockfarmer]

Love the idea and fab! How many hours on the the mod? Have you inspected the piston for transfere? How about compression, any changes. Stock specs obvious require back pressure, how much is enough? More flow out requires more in, any carb or intake mods? Looks great!!

 

[bulletpruf]

WidowMaker - Very nice. If you have any pics of the process, muffler guts, etc, that would be great.

Rockfarmer - muffler mods won't impact the compression. On the baffles, someone here did a test on another saw to see how it would perform with baffles hogged out and then removed. If I recall correctly, it cut quicker with the baffles enlarged moderately. As for the outlet size, I believe the formula that a lot of folks use is that your outlet should be at least 80% the size of your exhaust port. You shouldn't need carb or intake mods, should just have to richen the mixture a bit to compensate for more air flowing through.