Ok, I have read through about the first 15 pages once again. Gonna be lotsa work to find time for me to hunt info in the remaining 50+ pages. So, the latest development for me is I cleaned all the saws' body parts except gas tanks. Ordered crank bearings and seals, piston pin bearings and new gasket sets. I am going to research the parts and procedures to prep my oilers and fuel systems for full function and freedom from air/oil leaks with new O Rings, gaskets gasket sealer. etc
050 051 075 076 Info Thread
- Thread starter JDNicol
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Also, as discussed here at AS with a few members, plus friends elsewhere, I will likely split the case of my 051 first to do new bearings and seals. Then once I get the process figured out, I will decide if the 075 needs new bearings or if it can be put into service fine after pressure testing.
Particularly on my 051, but also some help needed in the arena of all models of 1111 saw I may encounter.
Ok first as Poge has pointed out, Serial number and exact part numbers go hand in hand especially because of all the changes that happened in the production time frame of these saws. My problem is the serial number on my 051 is practically unreadable.
SO my petition here is for now, could any 051 owners in here post their serial number so I can get a range of what the numbers should look like.
Hopefully I can figure something out like is it closer to a 1972 or middle time period or the last of the saws in the series. Mine has Points ignition and no remote oiler button or chainbrake ( pretty sure this was a later 075 or 076 feature anyway.
Also, what carbs/ intakes do yours have? I noticed my 051 has a Tillotson made in Ohio, while the 075 has a Stihl marked Tillotson made in Ireland.
I will get pics of my 051 and progress shots in here asap. Hopefully by then I will know my Carb model etc.
I also took some pics of my 051 and 075 serials and it seems the 051 begins with a 2, and the 075 is an 8.
My 075 Serial
My 075 Serial
The model description is printed or stamped on the carb body. Maybe you have to do some cleaning, but normally it`s readable. Just have a look.
Also, on one of my Top handle triggers, I have the trigger part but am missing the palm side safety lever that releases the trigger.
Anyone know these part names and numbers please?
Anyone know these part names and numbers please?
Do you mean some parts from that picture? It is from the 050, 051
Thank you DND, I know, I just need to do like you say and I will edit my post above to include each. I believe the Ohio made one has an HS then number, I will have to check the 075 and get both written down and will post.
If HS carb, it would be the HS-60.
DND thanks for the parts breakdown, yes it is 22 lockout lever, but I might need 23 and 21 too.
your welcome, keep us updated of the rebuilt process.
DND do you have a parts breakdown for the Oilers? like O rings, screws, washers etc etc?
sure, here is the complete IPL.
Will do, I am possibly getting a partial parts saw for a 51 or 75/76 from a fella and might be well to practice my case splitting and other exploratory overhauls on it before getting into the cases of these good saws. I have yet to decide which method will work best to split this case and remove the cranks. Any advice on the best 1111 case splitting tool would be welcome.
Thank you for the IPL
All of that information (and then some) is included in the link I recently posted. There are also tech notes describing the evolution of the oilers which could possibly help narrow down the general date range of your particular 051.
Regarding the case splitting and all that goes with it, careful inspection of the bearings and crank condition could reveal a solid bottom end not requiring a complete overhaul, but rather just seals and maybe an oiler rebuild.
Regarding the case splitting and all that goes with it, careful inspection of the bearings and crank condition could reveal a solid bottom end not requiring a complete overhaul, but rather just seals and maybe an oiler rebuild.
Poge
Thanks Poge. I am pretty sure I will need to split the case on my 051 vs. my 075 due to slight wiggle when I try to move the shafts up and down/side to side on the 51 but the 75 seems tight. Bearings are on order.
Poge
Thanks Poge. I am pretty sure I will need to split the case on my 051 vs. my 075 due to slight wiggle when I try to move the shafts up and down/side to side on the 51 but the 75 seems tight. Bearings are on order.
Regarding the case splitting and all that goes with it, careful inspection of the bearings and crank condition could reveal a solid bottom end not requiring a complete overhaul, but rather just seals and maybe an oiler rebuild.
Poge
Thanks Poge. I am pretty sure I will need to split the case on my 051 vs. my 075 due to slight wiggle when I try to move the shafts up and down/side to side on the 51 but the 75 seems tight. Bearings are on order.
Poge
Thanks Poge. I am pretty sure I will need to split the case on my 051 vs. my 075 due to slight wiggle when I try to move the shafts up and down/side to side on the 51 but the 75 seems tight. Bearings are on order.
Farmerboy
ArboristSite Operative
I’m planning to put a bar and auxiliary Oiler on a TS510, and here’s the problem I’ve got. The bushing that slides into the crankcase seal has an outside diameter of 20mm, while the clutch drum i purchased is only 18mm.
You guys got any links or parts # from a clutch drum that’ll fit over this (still needs a bearing there, so it’ll have to be about 25mm opening).
You guys got any links or parts # from a clutch drum that’ll fit over this (still needs a bearing there, so it’ll have to be about 25mm opening).
Farmer, I am too much a newb with these saws and never had a Cutoff saw apart to compare. Can you post pics of the saw in the clutch shaft area where you are talking about?
