SO I’ve found the issue. The woodruff key aligning the flywheel has sheared off and put it out of place and hence timing. I’ve replaced the key and it started and ran. But it’s done the same thing again. Would there be a particular reason why it’s sheared off?
050 051 075 076 Info Thread
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YAY Dinho, Hope to hear you have it 100% real soon
Sounds like the flywheel wasn't tight enough.
The key obviously needs to be the correct key for proper fitment. The shaft and flywheel need to be spotless for the tapered surfaces to mate properly. Use brake cleaner or alcohol on both. Torque the nut to the proper torque. In the absence of a torque wrench, just tighten the piss out of the nut using rope as a piston stop or give it a couple quick blips with an impact using just the compression of the engine as resistance (no rope, just the spark plug installed).
The key obviously needs to be the correct key for proper fitment. The shaft and flywheel need to be spotless for the tapered surfaces to mate properly. Use brake cleaner or alcohol on both. Torque the nut to the proper torque. In the absence of a torque wrench, just tighten the piss out of the nut using rope as a piston stop or give it a couple quick blips with an impact using just the compression of the engine as resistance (no rope, just the spark plug installed).
Brother,. Pogo, thanks for the tips above. Also, if a fella from Western Australia joins us anytime soon, I wanted to give you a head's up that I was answering some 075/076 questions for him, and sent him the link to here.
So I finally figured out what what happened in post#1375. thought I'd update anyone that might have been interested....
Turns out the guy that sold me the saw had Scavenged off lots of parts, greased the piston so it actually felt like it had compression, and threw it the wrong flywheel. After some digging I found an image of the correct flywheel. Some Dremel work and sanding and it fit without rubbing. Lots of parts later (OEM Piston, Jug, Decomp valve, gaskets, seals, bearings, a new chip in lew of trigger unit, many misc screws, new all metal clutch...and more I'm forgetting) SHE RUNS! I'm waiting for a new bar and chain and will put her into wood.
Sorry for not getting back sooner, thanks Pogo for the heads up...
Turns out the guy that sold me the saw had Scavenged off lots of parts, greased the piston so it actually felt like it had compression, and threw it the wrong flywheel. After some digging I found an image of the correct flywheel. Some Dremel work and sanding and it fit without rubbing. Lots of parts later (OEM Piston, Jug, Decomp valve, gaskets, seals, bearings, a new chip in lew of trigger unit, many misc screws, new all metal clutch...and more I'm forgetting) SHE RUNS! I'm waiting for a new bar and chain and will put her into wood.
Sorry for not getting back sooner, thanks Pogo for the heads up...
A
As promised my new 076 photos...
Attachments
So after a better look to see why the muffler has been removed, i can see the piston is toast. I'm hoping the cylinder isn't damaged. But for $80 AUD i'm not complaining.
Is there anyway of telling if this is just a normal 076 or a super ? As you can see the name plate is missing and it would be good to know what it is.
Cheers
Justin
Is there anyway of telling if this is just a normal 076 or a super ? As you can see the name plate is missing and it would be good to know what it is.
Cheers
Justin
Ben Lomond
ArboristSite Lurker
Responded to an add on Kijiji in Canada, three seized chainsaws make an offer...two were small homelites and one was a stihl 076 and I took a gamble, paid 250 CAD and I paid the shipping half way across Canada...the guy was decent, and it arrived, more or less complete except missing the manual oiler, but otherwise in quite good condition..managed to get it freed up after filling up jug with hydraulic oil and gas over night...now got it stripped down and cleaned up after the dishes were out of the chainsaw cleaner, I think I need piston, some rubbers, fuel/vacuum lines and carb kit..was worried about crank and bearings but after overnight in oil/gas mix freed up completely seems really tight so won't change them. I think the saw had straight gas in the 1990s (scores on both sides of the piston) and was kept in the shed for the next 25 years....the varnish has taken the internal paint off...don't know if it's best just to get rid off all the remaining paint in the crank chamber...suggestions? Cylinder looks good, some internal marks matching the piston but no scores...any suggestions for the rebuild appreciated!
Cheers Ben
,
Cheers Ben
,
So I’ve got a question for y’all. Awhile back I got an 075 for $200, non running and with a scored cylinder/ piston. I got a carb kit and new fuel lines for $20 but never did anything with the saw after that. Today I priced out the cost of “finishing“ the saw, as follows:
New Nikasil p/c kit: $80.00
Muffler cover: $40.00
Proline Av kit + fuel line: $35.00
Gasket/seal kit: $20.00
Case bearings + other stuff I’ve forgotten: $50.00
Total: $225.00 + $220 for saw/parts so far = $445.00
Is my saw gonna worth more than that when I’m done, should I decide to sell it?
P.S. What is p/n 1111 146 6061?
New Nikasil p/c kit: $80.00
Muffler cover: $40.00
Proline Av kit + fuel line: $35.00
Gasket/seal kit: $20.00
Case bearings + other stuff I’ve forgotten: $50.00
Total: $225.00 + $220 for saw/parts so far = $445.00
Is my saw gonna worth more than that when I’m done, should I decide to sell it?
P.S. What is p/n 1111 146 6061?
With a good quality bar and chain 24" or longer you'll probably get $450 ~ $550 out of it without much trouble if it looks decent cosmetically and is in good working condition. They don't fetch near as much as you'd think they would/should. There's one near me listed as a runner with 36" Stihl bar for $350. A little rough and probably needs a few things, but for big bucking or milling, the appearance is secondary to functionality for most serious buyers.
That part number yields no results when plugged into MediaCAT. Maybe a pic would help, or at least the source of the number?
That part number yields no results when plugged into MediaCAT. Maybe a pic would help, or at least the source of the number?
Incorrect part number. It started at 6000 and evolved to 6009. If you're looking for one, this is the latest version and a much better deal given the condition of the other one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-CUTO...R-COVER-GUARD-OEM-1111-146-6009-/232175677072
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-CUTO...R-COVER-GUARD-OEM-1111-146-6009-/232175677072
Hi Poge. Do you know the part number for the muffler shield to go over muffler 1111 140 0610 (with the spark arrestor screen)? I had to use spacers on mine to get it to clear the muffler.
thanks
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1111146606...24&brand=STIHL&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042
I was actually looking at this one, as $70 for a muffler cover seems unjustifiable to me.
I was actually looking at this one, as $70 for a muffler cover seems unjustifiable to me.
A quick check shows the 6009 cover listed as the one for a 0610 muffler. I didn't dig too far into it, though.
Grab some JB Weld and go for it, then. May want to have the seller double check the part number on it. 6061 is not a legit part number for an 1111 cover. Listing says 2 available. May also want to see what the other one looks like. And they're not a very rugged design, hence the reason rough ones are even pricey. Those new OEM covers are a good deal if you're rebuilding a nice saw that you're gonna keep.
In one of the pics I can see the part no, which appears to be 1111 146 6051, 6061, or 6081. My saw is anything but a nice saw as it has all sorts of repairs to the cases, handle, and full wrap mounts.
Good for you keeping the beast going. Looks good to me!
Can't explain that part number. I looked through all my 1111 IPL's from '71 forward and found no such number. Hell, the early 1111 saws didn't even have muffler covers.
Can't explain that part number. I looked through all my 1111 IPL's from '71 forward and found no such number. Hell, the early 1111 saws didn't even have muffler covers.
@Woodslasher
This is the case what I`ve already stated in the past here and there. On the part itself is often not the real part no. for ordering. The real part no is always in the IPL. That`s why often parts with the number on the part can`t be found in the IPL, because the IPL number is a other one. Sometimes the right no. is on it, sometimes not.
Ben Lomond
ArboristSite Lurker
Any comments on the previous post as to the re-build, I"g getting parts now?
Sounds like you have a plan and a good start. If that saw was straight-gassed, someone caught it real quick and minimized the damage.The piston doesn't even look that bad and could probably even be salvaged in a pinch. I've revived worse.
The cylinder will need some attention. Go easy cleaning it up and make sure there are no gouges, particularly below the ring travel. Quite a few threads on cleaning up cylinder aluminum transfer if you don't already have a method of choice. Most folks stay away from acid these days in favor of judicial use of abrasives instead.
Also look for plating wear or flaking. Not much detail in the pics to see what you're actually dealing with there. Always a judgement call on how much is too much if you find any.
I'd also make certain the bearings are super smooth, not just clean. You shouldn't feel any grit or even a hint of debris or resistance when spinning them.
I have 1111 IPLs if you haven't already come across the various links I've already posted to them.
