050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[Ben Lomond]

Thank you for the feedback...I found the IPLs too, so I'm set with that, just wondering what to do with the inside of casing where most of the paint has flaked off, I have a lilredbarn cylinder on the way and I have heard they are quite good, one of the rings for the original cylinder is stuck in place so don't want to mess with that, but I am tempted to switch out the bearings with new...will any set do, or should I get OEM?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Hard to comment on the paint. If it's actually flaking, I'd get rid of the rest of what's there and be done with it. I've had case halves media blasted to clean them up and it obviously does the trick. Not sure how effective other methods may be considering it's usually baked on pretty good.

The bearings are standard sized deep groove C3 bearings, 6203 and 6204 respectively. I use Nachi's from VXB in California. Reasonable prices and super fast shipping. Plenty of other sources out there as well. Aftermarket gasket sets that include the oil seals are also commonly available as you've probably already discovered.

 

[ozziechainsaw]

So guys, since my 076 doesn't have any Stihl badges on it, is there anyway I can tell if this thing is just a standard 076 or a 076 Super ?

Cheers

Justin

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

So guys, since my 076 doesn't have any Stihl badges on it, is there anyway I can tell if this thing is just a standard 076 or a 076 Super ?

Cheers

Justin

In another post elsewhere someone posted this:

"Hello i am pretty shure the main diff. between a 076 and an 076 super is that there is no comp.release on the super ( at least there is none on the one i own ) I think this is because of the newer type pawl recoil starter. Where as the 075 and early 076,s used the shoe type with the grabbing edge. The pawl type engauges more towards the outter edge of the flywheel giving more leverage for the spinning over of the engine thus reduceing the need for a comp. release. All 3 saws are 111 cc and take the same crankshaft as a 051 I think also the timming on the super was altered a little to improve power ! All of these saws have loads of low end grunt i love to buck huge oak trees with them !"


Justin, Pogo is one of the fellas in here who can explain most differences in this series of saw. I am sure there are others who know the various small details from start to finish in these saws too. I think the range of manufacturing of the 1111 saws dates to early 70's and goes to the 80's, so that is a significant time frame.

Also, this is a monster thread and I am sure the answer you seek is here already.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I don't have a specific 076 'Super' IPL, but have one that specifies some of the differences..., which aren't very dramatic. Main difference is the carburetor was changed to a WS-24-A from the Tillotson HS on the Super and the air box cover and profile differ a bit by means of a change in height of the intake riser block. There is a video by Rich Dougan (TheChainsawGuy) suggesting the higher profile air box indicates a Super..., which generally seems to be the case, (though the taller intake flange was also used on 075's along with the shorter cover as were the taller covers on 051's). The early IPL below indicates the exact opposite while the most recent one's indeed support Dougan's assertion. Examples of both are out there if you Google images for Stihl 076 Super. There are certainly quite a few variants of these saws and even some differences between Supers depending their particular market. The serial number may provide a clue since there are specific serial number break point references in the early IPL's for design and feature changes. Still 111cc's regardless of the details!

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[Woodslasher]

Great price for a rare 050? part. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nos-oem-ST...817887?hash=item5daab3069f:g:0xsAAOSwADZe5wUQ
gallery

 

[Woodslasher]

Parts are being accumulated.... stay tuned for more updates! And maybe larger pictures.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

How do you insert your pictures?

 

[Woodslasher]

I “Attach files” when I’m posting from an Ipad and just drag photos from the desktop to the text box on a normal computer. Here’s my pic as opposed to the eBay listing’s pic. Pardon the mess, I’m part-way through a 272 rebuild that will be finished before I dig into my 075. Also, what makes a “Non USA 760“ piston different from an ordinary one? It seems exactly the same as the used-but-salvageable 075 “C” piston in the background.

 

[Woodslasher]

Well, I ended up getting that old style muffler shield shown above as my 075 has the same muffler and clutch cover as this photo, so I guess it needs the same shield to boot.

 

[Jumpsuit]

Hello All, I'm back into my 051AV after it sitting for some time. I have pressure leaks on the worm seal (between the seal ring and the worm). Should I just get a new worm with the seal due to potential scratch in worm fitting causing the leak? Anyone have an opinion on oem seals vs. aftermarket? Are the aftermarket worms any good? Do you use goo in the worm such as hylomar, when pressing in the seal? Also anyone know a good source for carb kits for Tillotson HF carb because I will also rebuild the carb while I have the top end apart.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I would just replace the seal if it were me. Sourcing the worm (and the correct one) may be a challenge (and expensive) anyway. I smear a thin layer of Dirko on the outer seal surface when I install them in any situation. Non-hardening silicone based that's high temp and fuel resistant rated. Not really necessary in most situations, but will accommodate even moderate imperfections between mating surfaces. Good stuff. Use a little grease on the inside seal and fashion a sleeve of some type to install the worm over the crank lip to avoid inverting the seal as you slide it on. I use a piece of microfiche, but anything similar will work. Some cut a piece of beer/soda can to wrap around the crank.( I wouldn't simply due to the sharp edge.) Anything rigid enough and thin enough to help sneak the seal over the crank lip and then be easily twisted/slid back off the crank afterward is all that's necessary.

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The OEM seal is still available from a dealer for $9 ~ $10. Northwood Saw has aftermarkets for a couple bucks. https://northwoodsaw.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2768 I have good luck with parts from them. They're 14x20x3.5mm if you haven't measured or located the specs. That extra .5 mm on the thickness may be tricky to source from the usual bearing house sources, but I've never checked..

As for the carb kit, you should have an HS60 if it's a Tillotson. There is no HF that I'm aware of. The rebuild kit is RK-21HS. Diaphragms and gaskets only is DG-5HS/T. Google away for your best price, but stick with an OEM kit in either case.

 

[Jumpsuit]

Poge, Much gratitude for sharing your knowledge. I know you've done a lot of work on these saws. I remember a few years ago when I got the 051AV, your knowledge and rockfarmer's were very helpful.

That's a nice trick with the microfiche. Thanks for the picture. I have some mylar that I might use. I have the worm assembly sleeve 1111 893 4600, but I have to locate it.

You're right, carbeurator is HS60B. Thanks for your response, it saves me time and money. I hope to have the saw milling again sometime. With all the time spent getting it running again I'm thinking of getting a new powerhead and making the 051AV the backup.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

My pleasure to help, but I've only worked on a couple of 1111 saws. Others have much more hands on experience than I do. I just happened to acquire a wealth of old hard copy documentation several years ago (when I also acquired my 051) that offers a ton of information not commonly available in digital form for the 1111 saws -- until I digitized it for my own archives and convenience and to make available for limited distribution. I simply have a lot of study and cross-referencing of the docs under my belt as a result of following this thread and researching the various topics as they're posted. I'm just happy to contribute anything that may be useful from all that stuff when the opportunity arises.

 

[Woodslasher]

Working on what I think is a Stihl 075, no serial # stamp that I can find tag is missing on top. It has 10 stamped in 2 spots on clutch side of case.
Any info would be appreciated.View attachment 867313View attachment 867314View attachment 867315

Here's a better spot for your questions, and here's my guess. Based off of the bar oil cap's location, and the fact that nuts/studs hold on the cylinder, I'm going to guess 075 too. It looks like you need a new flywheel "cup" insert and maybe a new chain too.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The serial number should be stamped into the top front (or somewhere in that general area) on the PTO side of the case. May be next to the dog on the 075. Could help determine general production era and model changes.

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[89HD]

After reading most of the posts on this thread I think my saw is a combination of 2 different case halves, different models. The serial number stamps were moved to the flywheel side on some. Just Guessing

 

[Woodslasher]

After reading most of the posts on this thread I think my saw is a combination of 2 different case halves, different models. The serial number stamps were moved to the flywheel side on some. Just Guessing

I'd agree with you on that. Your recoil and muffler/muffler cover are the old style while the brake flag "ears" were 076 features, I think.

 

[heimannm]

I have a local friend with a TS760 cut off saw. He doesn't really need the cut off saw anymore and would be interested in putting it into service as a chainsaw. Does anyone have a used up 076 they would be willing to part with in order to utilize his good cylinder & piston, etc.

I suppose conversely, is anyone interested in a TS760 cut off saw that runs well and has a bigger saw to trade?

Mark

 

[Farmerboy]

Hey guys. So I have a nice condition TS760 I'd like to convert to power a chainsaw mill. So will not need the oiler as it'll be auxiliary. The question I have is this: Is it fairly straightforward to drill a hole where the chain tensioner goes? I'm thinking so, drill a hole and grind the front where the knob sticks out.