Rockfarmer
ArboristSite Guru
Before you go crazy let me check out flywheels and cases. As I recall some mismatched ones may rub,....
050 051 075 076 Info Thread
- Thread starter JDNicol
- Start date
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It does sound short but the original is bent (my bad). I'm going to try re setting the bearings to see if that was what caused the shaft to appear short. I could take some off the bottom of the flywheel but it just doesn't seem like the right thing to do. Would it be possible for Tecomec to make a crankshaft that out of spec?
GREEN7115
New Member
Picked up an 075 for doing some milling. I'm a contractor so from time to time I come across nice trees when we are clearing lots. I read through this entire thread over the course of the last week. Some incredible information here that has been invaluable as I tear this thing down for a rebuild. Was originally just hoping to just do new rings since the saw didn't have good compression but when I pulled the cylinder the piston was deeply scored. Not sure if any aluminum bits made it into the case but I'm thinking that I will split the cases and replace all the bearings/seals etc. just to be safe.
Welcome aboard.
So I’ve been busy for a while but if you look back a couple of pages I’d replaced the flywheel on my 051 av with a flywheel with the number 1111 400 1201. Anyway long story short I can’t get it to run. It has a good spark and have changed the plug various times to no success. Putting fuel straight down it’s throat makes it sound like it’s going to start but no good. It backfires occasionally and that about it. Also have checked the gap between the point and magneto.Just wondering if this flywheel is not gonna make it run? Let me know your thoughts! Cheers
GREEN7115
New Member
Got the saw painted last weekend and started assembling what I could this week. Put in the new crank bearings this morning before work. Gasket kit and some more misc. parts should be arriving in the mail today so hopefully I can get everything put back together between now and Saturday. I have a 42" diameter length of oak waiting for me to slab up on Sunday if all goes well. Used Old 55 Implement paint in Ford Light Gray and Kubota Orange 2 from a local midwest store chain called Fleet Farm. Colors seemed pretty much spot on and I did mix the hardener with it so hopefully it is fuel resistant.
Quite a few potential variables there. I pretty much covered em in post #1307. The 1201 is one of two flywheels used on the points 051's. It's safe to say you have a timing issue given the backfire. Aside from checking the condition and gap of the points, magneto air gap, and possibly trying a new condenser, may want to make sure the crank is actually compatible with the ignition.
GREEN7115
New Member
Tried to get everything buttoned up today but am having a problem with the cross performance piston. Went to put it on and it won’t fit over the end of the connecting rod. I looked inside and it is just the casting. No machining was done inside where the wrist pin goes through.
Hi Guys,
Just arranging a purchase of an apparent Stihl 076. There is no name plate on top of the cover as it has fallen off. It looks like an 076, the owner is telling me it is an 076. Is there any way I can tell if it's an 076 or an 075 ?
Regards
Justin
Just arranging a purchase of an apparent Stihl 076. There is no name plate on top of the cover as it has fallen off. It looks like an 076, the owner is telling me it is an 076. Is there any way I can tell if it's an 076 or an 075 ?
Regards
Justin
Attachments
Looks like an 076 to me, my 075 has the saw through a log logo and the oil cap on the top of the saw. It looks like that has the elusive muffler guard to boot. Do you mind if I ask how much he's asking for that?
Oh yeah, does anyone have any recommendations on a good p/c kit for an 075? $150-$300 for oem sounds a little steep for a beat up saw that I've already got $220~ in. I'd love a running 075, but not for $400-$650.
Hi ,
I'm not sure you would believe me. I'm picking it up on monday for $80 aussie dollars. He is also giving me a very large old McCulloch as well for another $50. I'm really not sure what type of McCulloch it is. I can show u some pics if u want ?
You could post the McCulloch pics in the McCulloch 'sticky' thread for identification.
I'd love to see pics of both of those saws! I'm not sure what 80 aussie dollars equate to in US dollars, but you did better than I did. I paid $200 for my 075 and it needs a new top end, av bushings, and a muffler guard.
i will get more photo's this week when it arrives.
Well, Woodslasher and Ozzie. The prices you paid are a Steal especially if you got bars and or chains for them too. But, even $220 for a powerhead you did ok, Woodslasher. Let's just say if either of you sink a couple hundred into the 075/'076. For round figures you have $500 in a fully finished and functioning Torque saw. Heck even if you spend enough to have $600 total US or Aussie $$$$ in it. I have seen good and clean examples sell for $700-$800, and ones ready to mill and set up WITH 4 foot Alaskan mills, bars, chains etc recently selling in the $1100-$1400 range. You will not regret doing one of these saws the right way.
PLUS these are not throwaway plastic toys either. If done 100%, a Stihl 1111 series saw, will cut and cut and cut and cut, with plenty of ass to pull huge bars even thru logs length wise for jobs such as chainsaw milling. And if you get too old to pull that bad boy over, you can still get your money out of it if you decide to sell.
As Pogointhewoods will tell you, I am no expert on these saws, but I do own 2 I am redoing.
One critical piece of info I have learned and will continue to strive to attain in 100% of my saws, 100% of the time, is if I have a running saw, I want one that I KNOW beyond a doubt that it is running air leak free and with top notch fresh fuel.
Of all the factors I have learned about that will kill a saw ( ruined top ends, compression that is shot, hard starting of poor running issues) 99% of the time ceom from straight gassing a saw, or from old, bad fuel/ fuel system causes such as water logged gas/oil p[roblemsthat ethanol brings on, Gummy, gooey fuel and impulse lines and jacked up carbs. The other main causes of failure are Air and Vacuum leaks. If the saw leaks, you can count on a lean running condition and P and C wear. Guaranteed.
Also, if all else is 100% make sure to have good clean filters in your saw. Both Air and Fuel. If all this is tip top, you should have a saw that will last you once you do do any maintenance and rebuilding on one. Good luck.
One critical piece of info I have learned and will continue to strive to attain in 100% of my saws, 100% of the time, is if I have a running saw, I want one that I KNOW beyond a doubt that it is running air leak free and with top notch fresh fuel.
Of all the factors I have learned about that will kill a saw ( ruined top ends, compression that is shot, hard starting of poor running issues) 99% of the time ceom from straight gassing a saw, or from old, bad fuel/ fuel system causes such as water logged gas/oil p[roblemsthat ethanol brings on, Gummy, gooey fuel and impulse lines and jacked up carbs. The other main causes of failure are Air and Vacuum leaks. If the saw leaks, you can count on a lean running condition and P and C wear. Guaranteed.
Also, if all else is 100% make sure to have good clean filters in your saw. Both Air and Fuel. If all this is tip top, you should have a saw that will last you once you do do any maintenance and rebuilding on one. Good luck.
This one video was a serious EYE OPENER for me.
