.063 .325

[tdiguy]

Why did Stihl put .063 .325 chain on their consumer 50cc ish saws, but if you go to a pro model it's all 3/8 .050? If they needed a larger gauge shouldn't it all be .063? Lower the cutting performance on the consumer saws to make their pro models look better with the 3/8 .050?

 

[HarleyT]

Wow, an interesting theory!!!

 

[blades]

most of the .325 I see here in shop is .058. .063 is out there as well just haven't noticed any coming in for sharpening.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

It's not about pro versus non. It's a size thing. 261 is a pro saw that they sell with .325.

My theory on the .063 gauge is that it makes you buy stuff at the stihl dealer. Other places are less likely to stock .325 .063 chain. And when your bar wears out, you've got to go back to stihl to get the next one, since that's what all your chains are.

 

[brock1994]

It's not about pro versus non. It's a size thing. 261 is a pro saw that they sell with .325.

My theory on the .063 gauge is that it makes you buy stuff at the stihl dealer. Other places are less likely to stock .325 .063 chain. And when your bar wears out, you've got to go back to stihl to get the next one, since that's what all your chains are.

Exactly.

50cc saws can't pull a 3/8 regardless of gauge. Put a 20" 3/8 .050 bar and chain on a 50cc saw regardless pro or homeowner and see what happens.

Also most of those size saws bars are not sprocket nose bars so you in theory could run a larger gauge or smaller gauge chain with not much effect to a extent.

 

[tdiguy]

It's not about pro versus non. It's a size thing. 261 is a pro saw that they sell with .325.

My theory on the .063 gauge is that it makes you buy stuff at the stihl dealer. Other places are less likely to stock .325 .063 chain. And when your bar wears out, you've got to go back to stihl to get the next one, since that's what all your chains are.

That's what i was thinking too.

Exactly.

50cc saws can't pull a 3/8 regardless of gauge. Put a 20" 3/8 .050 bar and chain on a 50cc saw regardless pro or homeowner and see what happens.

Also most of those size saws bars are not sprocket nose bars so you in theory could run a larger gauge or smaller gauge chain with not much effect to a extent.

I have some 50cc saws that came with 3/8 .050, but i agree with you, works very well with .325 .050 7 pin.

 

[Franny K]

Why not put up some specific model numbers? In the 50 ish they are called farm and ranch or professional at least in this market.

The 261, a pro 50cc saw comes with 0.063 gauge.

I do note the plug in electric mse250cbq, the 311, and 391 list only 0.050x3/8

https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent.../STIHL-Saw-Chain-Selection-Identification.pdf

The number you are enquiring about is the thickness of the drive links and the slot in the bar. It may effect oil distribution, drive sprocket wear rate, and the availability of skip chains. It does not effect the thickness of kerf for Stihl chain. What evidence is there of actual performance difference?

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Exactly.

50cc saws can't pull a 3/8 regardless of gauge. Put a 20" 3/8 .050 bar and chain on a 50cc saw regardless pro or homeowner and see what happens.

Also most of those size saws bars are not sprocket nose bars so you in theory could run a larger gauge or smaller gauge chain with not much effect to a extent.

I was actually pretty happy with how my 261v2 pulled a 16" 3/8 bar buried in white oak. I wouldn't try it with more bar though. I'm sure it would do it, but it wouldn't be very exciting.

Regarding sprocket nose versus not, I think ALMOST everything is sold with a sprocket nose bar nowadays. There's a few hard-nose bars out there, and you can certainly order them, but I've never seen one on a saw that's for sale at a dealership. Either way though, a hard-nose, or roller tip (roller, but no teeth) can run any PITCH chain, but not any GAUGE. A .063 gauge chain won't fit in a .050 gauge hard-nose bar, and if you do it the other way around the chain will be loose footing and sloppy. It won't cut straight or be safe.

 

[CR888]

This thread should be deleted, someone needing info might read it! I'm not sure where to start on this one.

 

[Mad Professor]

Exactly.

50cc saws can't pull a 3/8 regardless of gauge. Put a 20" 3/8 .050 bar and chain on a 50cc saw regardless pro or homeowner and see what happens.

Also most of those size saws bars are not sprocket nose bars so you in theory could run a larger gauge or smaller gauge chain with not much effect to a extent.

Gauge refers to bar groove width. You will not get a 0.063 chain on a 0.058" bar, and if you try the reverse the chain drivers will flop all over in the groove.

The 0.325" chains are narrower kerf and allow the sprocket to run less teeth on smaller saws. Both of which cater to the fact they have less power. I run 16" 0.325 bars with stihl RS chain, 7T rim sprocket, on my 026s and 028 supers. That is about the sweet spot for the power those saws put out. I could run 3/8 chain or longer bars but the power those saws put out what I'm using is best in hardwoods.

If you go to the bigger stihl saws you'd have to run a 9T sprocket with 0.325 chain, smaller rims won't fit. That is the point where all my saws run 3/8 chain, 7T or 8T sprocket depending on saw.

 

[Mad Professor]

This thread should be deleted, someone needing info might read it! I'm not sure where to start on this one.

I tried ...........

 

[KenJax Tree]

I tried ...........

Same here

 

[Overkill338]

Gauge refers to bar groove width. You will not get a 0.063 chain on a 0.058" bar, and if you try the reverse the chain drivers will flop all over in the groove.

The 0.325" chains are narrower kerf and allow the sprocket to run less teeth on smaller saws. Both of which cater to the fact they have less power. I run 16" 0.325 bars with stihl RS chain, 7T rim sprocket, on my 026s and 028 supers. That is about the sweet spot for the power those saws put out. I could run 3/8 chain or longer bars but the power those saws put out what I'm using is best in hardwoods.

If you go to the bigger stihl saws you'd have to run a 9T sprocket with 0.325 chain, smaller rims won't fit. That is the point where all my saws run 3/8 chain, 7T or 8T sprocket depending on saw.

325 chains have MORE cutters, not less than 3/8 per any given bar length.

Also, narrow kerf 325 is considered to be the 325 .050 that Husky runs.

 

[tdiguy]

Gauge refers to bar groove width. You will not get a 0.063 chain on a 0.058" bar, and if you try the reverse the chain drivers will flop all over in the groove.

The 0.325" chains are narrower kerf and allow the sprocket to run less teeth on smaller saws. Both of which cater to the fact they have less power. I run 16" 0.325 bars with stihl RS chain, 7T rim sprocket, on my 026s and 028 supers. That is about the sweet spot for the power those saws put out. I could run 3/8 chain or longer bars but the power those saws put out what I'm using is best in hardwoods.

If you go to the bigger stihl saws you'd have to run a 9T sprocket with 0.325 chain, smaller rims won't fit. That is the point where all my saws run 3/8 chain, 7T or 8T sprocket depending on saw.

I tried ...........

Same here

I never said anything about .058 or changing to anything other than what the bar says. Also not talking about NK or pixel regular .325 .050.

325 chains have MORE cutters, not less than 3/8 per any given bar length.

Also, narrow kerf 325 is considered to be the 325 .050 that Husky runs.

How many cutters are cutting at one time? How are you using the ones on the top and bottom of the bar at the same time? Again using H23 Husqvarna or 20 lpx Oregon not NK or pixel.

 

[Overkill338]

Ok, as far as cutter size. I just measured a 3/8 50, 3/8LoPro 50, and a 325 63. All 3 are Stihl full chisel chains.

3/8" pitch chains have 9 cutters per foot. .325" pitch chains have 11.

3/8 LoPro
3.79mm cutter width
9.54mm cutter height from where it touches the bar.
4.95mm width from river to rivet

325 .063
4.1mm width
10.32mm height
5.74mm width from rivet to rivet
8.15mm total width from left cutter to right cutter


3/8 .050
4.07mm width
11.35mm height.
5.68mm from rivet to rivet
8.63mm total width from left cutter to right cutter.

 

[Overkill338]

I never said anything about .058 or changing to anything other than what the bar says. Also not talking about NK or pixel regular .325 .050.
How many cutters are cutting at one time? How are you using the ones on the top and bottom of the bar at the same time? Again using H23 Husqvarna or 20 lpx Oregon not NK or pixel.

How do you not understand that shorter links move the cutters closer together? That in turn means more cutters in the wood at any given time. A 325 chain has 11 cutters per 12", a 3/8 has 9. Do you get it now?

 

[Philbert]

The simple answer is 'because STIHL did'. I tend to agree with @Ryan'smilling theory about keeping customers coming back, because the MS460's come with 3/8 / .050 chain around here. ALL .063 gauge, or ALL .050 chain would be simpler to navigate. But that's how they come (at least where I live).

Same thing with .058 gauge chains on Husqvarnas (and related saws: Jonserds, etc.)

The 3/8 vs. .325 pitch is a separate issue. Lots of threads here on A.S. about guys running both on MS260 series saws and being happy with each. .325 runs more, smaller teeth, and may be better suited for smaller wood, limbing, etc. 3/8 runs fewer, larger teeth, and may work well in larger diameter wood.

For lower powered saws (e.g. MS 250 series) the .325 chain works better. It has a narrower kerf than 3/8 chain, but not as narrow as .325 Narrow Kerf chain (e.g. Oregon Type 95). Husqvarna supplies .325 NK chain on a number of their saws and I have been happy with it. Both Husqvarna and Oregon have introduced 'higher performance' versions of .325 NK chain in the past year or two. They are both .050 gauge.

Pitch. Gauge. Cutter Type. Cutter Sequence. Brand. Filing / Grinding Angles . . . lots of choices if you want.

But back to the OP's question, I believe it is is to keep you a STIHL chain customer.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Ok, as far as cutter size. I just measured a 3/8 50, 3/8LoPro 50, and a 325 63. All 3 are Stihl full chisel chains.

Cut into a 2x4 with each chain (new) and measure the kerf (not just the cutter size).

Philbert

 

[Overkill338]

The simple answer is 'because STIHL did'. I tend to agree with @Ryan'smilling theory about keeping customers coming back, because the MS460's come with 3/8 / .050 chain around here. ALL .063 gauge, or ALL .050 chain would be simpler to navigate. But that's how they come (at least where I live).

Same thing with .058 gauge chains on Husqvarnas (and related saws: Jonserds, etc.)

The 3/8 vs. .325 pitch is a separate issue. Lots of threads here on A.S. about guys running both on MS260 series saws and being happy with each. .325 runs more, smaller teeth, and may be better suited for smaller wood, limbing, etc. 3/8 runs fewer, larger teeth, and may work well in larger diameter wood.

For lower powered saws (e.g. MS 250 series) the .325 chain works better. It has a narrower kerf than 3/8 chain, but not as narrow as .325 Narrow Kerf chain (e.g. Oregon Type 95). Husqvarna supplies .325 NK chain on a number of their saws and I have been happy with it. Both Husqvarna and Oregon have introduced 'higher performance' versions of .325 NK chain in the past year or two. They are both .050 gauge.

Pitch. Gauge. Cutter Type. Cutter Sequence. Brand. Filing / Grinding Angles . . . lots of choices if you want.

But back to the OP's question, I believe it is is to keep you a STIHL chain customer.

Philbert

All that makes sense. But I like my method of just measuring with a caliper and letting them decide for themselves lol

 

[Overkill338]

Cut into a 2x4 with each chain (new) and measure the kerf (not just the cutter size).

Philbert

I'm trying to fix two straight edges that I can use to measure from a left cutter to the right cutter.