Well, I've never worked hard enough to need dawgs, but those sure look upside down to me. It seems when you are lifting the handle the dawgs should be pointing slightly downward , if that makes sense?
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yea, im not a real bit sticker guy on stuff like this, so i took the one of the front of the saw with the barcode on it, the one of the chainbreak,and the one above the fuel cab, i dunno, just something i do....this is actually the first brand new saw that i have ever bought now that i think of it
Well, I've never worked hard enough to need dawgs, but those sure look upside down to me. It seems when you are lifting the handle the dawgs should be pointing slightly downward , if that makes sense?
P put a small husky together with the old clips the other day, because I didn't see the new ones until it was all together and I was throwing the piston box away. I was too lazy to open the saw again. It's a 254, so maybe not powerful enough to throw them out.
Nice looking new toy what did the soak you for it down there.Do you like those bars i have no luck with them at all tips always chip out or fly apart.:chainsawguy: :chainsawguy:
Trigger..if i was you i would go ahead and get the roller chain catcher, i personally like to mount it to the inside dog, well worth it to me....hope the #'s help
064 & 066 have roller chain catcher........just need a set for 440, 660 and
if I keep it the 460
the powerhead, was $956.25($890), out the door including tax, they exchanged ou the stock dogs, change catcher, and muffler cover, and all i did was pay the price difference. ($10, $890+$10=$900, rest was tax) i bought just the powerhead because i had the brand new powermatch in my toolbox, and a stihl bar would have been an oddball on my saws) i usually have pretty good luck with powermatch bars, i do prefer a windsor, but the darn tips are such a pain to change that im gettng away from them. been doing any cuttng up there?
Good deal ya we started back at it a few weeks ago now on some private land cutting pretty much all soft maple little beach and red oak not very nice timber thow.Alot of wood logs bush is dry for this time of year.Hows things there what are you cutting there were are all the pic's.
Having never been inside to view the clip retaining the wrist pin I have to ask; Is it your typical cir-clip with two holes for cir-clip pliers or is it a spiral type ring. If it is the typical type you will probably notice on close examination that one edge is formed much squarer than the other which is slightly rounded.The square edge should always be facing you as the clip goes in so that the clip has a better seat in piston groove.Imo the position of clip gap would not lead to clip failure.If it is the type I've described why is'nt anyone using the correct pliers?( built lots of engines but not chainsaws)
Having never been inside to view the clip retaining the wrist pin I have to ask; Is it your typical cir-clip with two holes for cir-clip pliers or is it a spiral type ring. If it is the typical type you will probably notice on close examination that one edge is formed much squarer than the other which is slightly rounded.The square edge should always be facing you as the clip goes in so that the clip has a better seat in piston groove.Imo the position of clip gap would not lead to clip failure.If it is the type I've described why is'nt anyone using the correct pliers?( built lots of engines but not chainsaws)
yesterday and up until lunch time today i was cutting a bunch of scraggly cottonwood, and red oaks, push and pull trees....PITA, now that i have that out of the way i can start on the real timber....got some nice red oaks to cut. got a pretty good size one that im gonna be cutting tom(4ft.+)...will try to get some pics...
Wrist pin clips are round section wire. The clip gap position is highly important!The ends of the clip will flex if placed at he 3 or 9 o'clock position when the piston reverses direction. Gap must be at 6 or 12 o'clock or the clip will end up out of the piston.
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