084 - gettin it cranked without breaking a hand

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It's a PITA ...

Cut to the exact length (170mm), push in spring, propane on the nipple... preheat the hose a bit too... push on STRAIGHT. Don't bend at all until cold. There is a special stihl tool that's just a pair of needle-nose pliers with a hole drilled in them so you can grab the hose without flattening it, but no one has the tool..

You'll soon learn not to screw with things that aren't broke:jester:
 
It's a PITA ...

Cut to the exact length (170mm), push in spring, propane on the nipple... preheat the hose a bit too... push on STRAIGHT. Don't bend at all until cold. There is a special stihl tool that's just a pair of needle-nose pliers with a hole drilled in them so you can grab the hose without flattening it, but no one has the tool..

You'll soon learn not to screw with things that aren't broke:jester:

Lake, are you saying the only time you use heat is to install the nipple and you install the hose cold? Using this method, you feed the hose from the bar outlet end and make the two bends while the hose is cold? Does the hose need to be warmed up before trying to put it on the oilpump barb?

This is going to be a pita...
 
Howdy flht01,

Good thread and I hope you get her all back together. Can you post a pic?

v/r

Mike
 
I did the hose on my 064 and it was a PITA. My 084 was leaking badly with winter weight bar oil. What a nightmare!
Played with it most of a Saturday. Took it to my local shop $35, good as new. The shop made their own pliers similar to the ones Lake describes.
 
Lake, are you saying the only time you use heat is to install the nipple and you install the hose cold? Using this method, you feed the hose from the bar outlet end and make the two bends while the hose is cold? Does the hose need to be warmed up before trying to put it on the oilpump barb?

This is going to be a pita...

I heat up the nipple (barb) on the pump (carefully) to install the warmed up hose end...

The little brass sleeve is just pushed in cold (special tool, but you can improvise easily) AFTER it's all completed.


Yep, taper the end (if it's long enough) and spray the crap out of the hose with Teflon lubricant, then "ease" it in... It's even a pain on an 036, and that's a heck of a lot shorter. Sometimes on the very old versions I drill out the mag casing a little..


Use a hair drier on the hose to soften it, but be careful - it will go from hard to soft real quick. You might want to try getting the case really warm (it will take a while) - it will retain the heat and warm the hose as it goes though.

The good news - the replacement hose will last forever if it's done right...
 
To take my mind off the upcoming oil hose job, I tackled something a little more my speed. I did a little "shake and bake" muffler job; no mods; just clean, paint and bake (mistake, won't bake another one in the house :) ). I left the screen in (for now ) and was wondering if there are major improvements in modd'n the muffler. My saw has the muffler without the innards (except for the screen).
 
MS250 kickback

My 039 and MS250 have kicked back since the day I took them off the showroom. I just thought it was the nature of the beast.
:

Yeah, my 250 kicks back too. Usually when first starting it cold on the first pull. Once it fires the first time, and I kick it down to high idle position, it's fine. Sometimes it will do it on a hot start too on the first pull, but if I have to pull it a second time it's fine. I've tried starting it hot on the hi idle position, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. I was planning on taking it in to the dealer for a look-see since it's still under warranty, but it sounds like maybe it's just the nature of the beast.
 
With the 250 - it is... Some customers have a heck of a time starting it - it needs a sharp intial pull to get the flywheel to help with the rest of the pull. And it's not the ignition - same problem with the saw turned off.
 
Well, so far so good. After putting the muffler back on, I decided to tackle the oil hose. I brought the hose and saw in the house and let it warm up a couple of hours. Then I followed Lake's instructions in the post above and put it in. I'll have to wait on the oil pump parts to come in to finish up.

Moral to the story, don't change the oil delivery hose just because it isn't pliable, it's not suppose to be. It'll have to be busted and leaking before I do another one :buttkick:

If getting it on the oil pump goes as well as the rest did tonight, it'll be a relief to have that part done.


Next time I need to pull an oil pump, I'll just warm up the hose on the pump's barb before trying to get it off.
 
I hate to say told you so! :D :D :D I've made that mistake a few times. Try telling a customer you tried twice, used two kits and it took and hour! Usually I don't and just eat it..
 
With the 250 - it is... Some customers have a heck of a time starting it - it needs a sharp intial pull to get the flywheel to help with the rest of the pull. And it's not the ignition - same problem with the saw turned off.

Okay. I guess I can live with it, since otherwise I have no complaints about the saw. A minor issue to me. I just can't help but wonder what the cause is, tho.
 
I have a question on the clutch springs. I ordered replacement springs from my local dealer recently and the ones they sold me are different than the ones I took off. The original springs had 6 coils and the new ones only have 5. They told me that this was a change Stihl made and the 5 coil springs were correct. Is this true?
 
Not sure... I never read anything, but don't get a lot of 084/088 in for service. If they are the right part number, go with that. Less turns would indicate a thicker guage. 0000-997-5818 for the 084/088/MS880 - and that's the only models they are used in.
 
I have a question on the clutch springs. I ordered replacement springs from my local dealer recently and the ones they sold me are different than the ones I took off. The original springs had 6 coils and the new ones only have 5. They told me that this was a change Stihl made and the 5 coil springs were correct. Is this true?

I bought 0000-997-5818 and their the same as the ones that came off. Depending on how your looking at the spring their 6 coil. Keep in mind they may have been in inventory for a long time.
 
Not sure... I never read anything, but don't get a lot of 084/088 in for service. If they are the right part number, go with that. Less turns would indicate a thicker guage. 0000-997-5818 for the 084/088/MS880 - and that's the only models they are used in.

I ordered them from the dealer over a month ago by giving them the part number from my IPL. The truth is, I don't even know if they sent me the right part because I tossed the package several weeks ago. I'll run out and check the guage on them real quick.
 
The wire thickness on the old springs is .078" and .082" on the new. The new ones are a SOB to stretch and I still haven't successfully installed one. Any tricks to it?
 
The wire thickness on the old springs is .078" and .082" on the new. The new ones are a SOB to stretch and I still haven't successfully installed one. Any tricks to it?

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Stihl makes a tool......... #5910-890-2800


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I made something very similar to that but I need more arms to pull the spring and hold the saw at the same time. I just need to sucker someone into helping me.
 
Best to do this off the saw...

Mount the bottom clutch shoe in a vice. Then put in the center, other shoes and keepers, and loosly mount the springs (one end). Then pull or lever the other end of the spring while pushing in... You might need to put a band around the shoes to stop them spreading.

Even with the Stihl tool it's tough... Try tying a wire to the spring end and pulling with a handle.



And... If you insist on leaving the clutch on the saw, mount the saw in a big vice vertically - just grab it TIGHTY by the inboard dog.. And be sure to stop the piston.
 
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