You only need to look in the filler plug.
090G basket case
- Thread starter Bob95065
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You only need to look in the filler plug.
I'll check it when I can.
I pulled the cover last night. It is a gear drive saw. The cover was damaged and repaired with what looks like JB Weld. See the picture in the second post of this thread.
There wasn't any oil in the case. The bearings and gears turn smoothly.
There wasn't any oil in the case. The bearings and gears turn smoothly.
I got into the saw this weekend. I split the case and made a list of needed parts from the dealer. A member here was very helpful with knowledge and parts that will get this project off the ground.
The P/C are 66mm.
This was by far the easiest case I have ever split because of the roller bearings. I am used to pressed bearings on smaller saws. I removed the nuts off the studs and gently tapped the case halves with a rubber mallet and it came apart very easily. I am very impressed with the quality of the build of the 090G.
I plan on posting pictures of progress on this saw in case someone else here gets into one with no experience with them like I did here. Thank you all for pointing me in the right direction.
The P/C are 66mm.
This was by far the easiest case I have ever split because of the roller bearings. I am used to pressed bearings on smaller saws. I removed the nuts off the studs and gently tapped the case halves with a rubber mallet and it came apart very easily. I am very impressed with the quality of the build of the 090G.
I plan on posting pictures of progress on this saw in case someone else here gets into one with no experience with them like I did here. Thank you all for pointing me in the right direction.
How do you get the black rubber grip off the handle without destroying it?
Last weekend while working on the saw I ran into a n interesting problem. I was dry-fitting the case together to check the cylinder interface for flatness. The left case half that I bought seemed to have different alignment pin spacing from the original right case half. I let NewtoStihl know who helped me out with the parts and information big time.
I took some measurements this morning.
First thing I did was engage the aft pin and take a picture of the fore pin through the hole to show misalignment.
Aft pin engaged:
Fore pin misaligned:
Next I measured outside of pin to outside of pin. On the left half i got 110.33mm, right 109.71mm, difference 0.62mm.
Next i measured in the pin bores outside to outside. Left i show 110.54mm, right 109.72mm, difference 0.82mm
Next i held one end of the caliper just inside one hole and tried to do the same on the other to get the center to center distance. I got 104.26mm on the left half and 103.32 on the right, difference 0.94mm
I trust the second measurement set most which would put me at a 0.82mm which is 0.032". This is a significant difference that will cause the pins to not engage.
Based on the early features in my saw I believe my right case half is early and the replacement left case half is later. Stihl must have changed the pin spacing dimension sometime between manufacturing the two case halves that I am working with. I hope this helps anyone who may be working with a saw from this series.
Bob
I took some measurements this morning.
First thing I did was engage the aft pin and take a picture of the fore pin through the hole to show misalignment.
Aft pin engaged:
Fore pin misaligned:
Next I measured outside of pin to outside of pin. On the left half i got 110.33mm, right 109.71mm, difference 0.62mm.
Next i measured in the pin bores outside to outside. Left i show 110.54mm, right 109.72mm, difference 0.82mm
Next i held one end of the caliper just inside one hole and tried to do the same on the other to get the center to center distance. I got 104.26mm on the left half and 103.32 on the right, difference 0.94mm
I trust the second measurement set most which would put me at a 0.82mm which is 0.032". This is a significant difference that will cause the pins to not engage.
Based on the early features in my saw I believe my right case half is early and the replacement left case half is later. Stihl must have changed the pin spacing dimension sometime between manufacturing the two case halves that I am working with. I hope this helps anyone who may be working with a saw from this series.
Bob
OC455
ArboristSite Operative
I don't know if this would help you or not, but there is a 090 case on ebay that is up for auction:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/090-stihl-...772836?hash=item289264d264:g:9doAAOSwN8Jemxjw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/090-stihl-...772836?hash=item289264d264:g:9doAAOSwN8Jemxjw
I sent the parts to Shaun Carr (@scarr52) for repairs and machine work. He let me know that the repairs were completed and parts ready to go.
When I got this basket case I had little hope of getting it running. Shaun took the mess i sent him and reworked the parts into a saw worthy of a full restoration. Eye candy below:
There was a step between the case halves. Shaun milled the cylinder interface flat.
Cylinder repair. The spark plug hole was stripped and had a poorly done helicoil repair. The top cover holes were stripped out and similarly repaired. They are fixed now.
Top cover and gearcase cover repairs. The mounting holes on the top cover were wallowed out due to incorrect fasteners and stripped holes in the cylinder. Shaun filled them and re-drilled the mounting holes. The bar mount on the gearcase cover was broken off and half of it was missing. Shaun recreated the missing portion and welded it on. He's a master craftsman and more an artist with metal.
The handlebars were sent to Shaun in three parts. It is now one piece again. Amazing work.
Look back in this thread at the before pictures and you will see that one of the ribs on this starter was missing. Now you can hardly tell. The mounting flange was broken off completely and missing. Shaun recreated these parts and welded them on. Simply amazing, outstanding work.
I can't thank Shaun enough for the incredible work he has done on this abused saw. He's given it a new lease on life and an opportunity for a concourse restoration.
The parts were boxed up along with the rest of the things I mailed Shaun and sent to Mike in Pittsburgh for powder coating. Stay tuned for more updates.
When I got this basket case I had little hope of getting it running. Shaun took the mess i sent him and reworked the parts into a saw worthy of a full restoration. Eye candy below:
There was a step between the case halves. Shaun milled the cylinder interface flat.
Cylinder repair. The spark plug hole was stripped and had a poorly done helicoil repair. The top cover holes were stripped out and similarly repaired. They are fixed now.
Top cover and gearcase cover repairs. The mounting holes on the top cover were wallowed out due to incorrect fasteners and stripped holes in the cylinder. Shaun filled them and re-drilled the mounting holes. The bar mount on the gearcase cover was broken off and half of it was missing. Shaun recreated the missing portion and welded it on. He's a master craftsman and more an artist with metal.
The handlebars were sent to Shaun in three parts. It is now one piece again. Amazing work.
Look back in this thread at the before pictures and you will see that one of the ribs on this starter was missing. Now you can hardly tell. The mounting flange was broken off completely and missing. Shaun recreated these parts and welded them on. Simply amazing, outstanding work.
I can't thank Shaun enough for the incredible work he has done on this abused saw. He's given it a new lease on life and an opportunity for a concourse restoration.
The parts were boxed up along with the rest of the things I mailed Shaun and sent to Mike in Pittsburgh for powder coating. Stay tuned for more updates.
It's been a while since I posted and I wanted to put some pictures up of the progress that has been made on the saw. Shaun finished the repairs an fabrication and it went to Pittsburgh, PA for powder coating by @Glock37. The saw returned to me and I put in a big order with the local Stihl dealer. While waiting for parts I was in an accident that resulted in 2nd and 3rd degree burns to my legs on May 21st. I sustained 20% burns and spent 17 days in the burn ICU and had skin grafts. All I can say is avoid getting burned.
I am now recovered so it is time to get back to building the saw. Last weekend I had the second round of parts come in so I got started.
I found that the hard oil line had a crack when I inspected it prior to installation. @NewToStihl was kind enough to trade me a perfect replacement. I got started on assembly.
I am now recovered so it is time to get back to building the saw. Last weekend I had the second round of parts come in so I got started.
I found that the hard oil line had a crack when I inspected it prior to installation. @NewToStihl was kind enough to trade me a perfect replacement. I got started on assembly.
I'm hoping to acquire a Contra G in the near future. Your saw is coming along nicely.
I missed this before. Shaun definitely knows what he is doing. He's repaired countless parts for me, even managed to recreate what were rather delicate features busted off.
Thanks! It has been a fun project but slow due to waiting for parts. Everything is backordered. They don't have 090G parts sitting on the shelf at most dealers.
Shaun is an artist with magnesium. I sent him a saw that looked like it got dragged behind a pickup for miles and he fabricated missing parts and repaired broken parts. The craftsmanship was excellent.
Mike put the icing on the cake with an outstanding powdercoat job. The saw looks like new.
I'm surprised any 090G parts are available at all. Maybe the common 070/090 stuff.
I have some questions about this saw:
1. what is the best way to set the ignition timing. I don't have the crankshaft tool that the SM describes. I see two ways I could do it based on data in the service manual without this tool:
a. The SM says that points should break at 0.120" BTD. I could make a dial indicator holder out of an old spark plug and use my dial indicator to find TDC and 0.120" BTDC to set the timing.
b. The SM shows 27° to 29° spark advance. I could make a degree wheel that would go on the crankshaft on the clutch side along with a wire pointer. I can use this to set the points so they break at 27° to 29° BTDC
2. The IPL I have doesn't list a part number for the fiber seal for the plug in the bottom of the left case half. This is the plug that is removed for the crankshaft timing tool. Does anyone know a part number for this fiber ring?
Thanks in advance. I wouldn't be this far without the help of this board. I also appreciate your comments on this build.
1. what is the best way to set the ignition timing. I don't have the crankshaft tool that the SM describes. I see two ways I could do it based on data in the service manual without this tool:
a. The SM says that points should break at 0.120" BTD. I could make a dial indicator holder out of an old spark plug and use my dial indicator to find TDC and 0.120" BTDC to set the timing.
b. The SM shows 27° to 29° spark advance. I could make a degree wheel that would go on the crankshaft on the clutch side along with a wire pointer. I can use this to set the points so they break at 27° to 29° BTDC
2. The IPL I have doesn't list a part number for the fiber seal for the plug in the bottom of the left case half. This is the plug that is removed for the crankshaft timing tool. Does anyone know a part number for this fiber ring?
Thanks in advance. I wouldn't be this far without the help of this board. I also appreciate your comments on this build.
You're right, it's just the parts common to the 1106 saws. There is not a single 090G specific part still available from Stihl.
In my opinion, 1b sounds like your best option for timing.
The part number for that sealing ring is 9636 965 1180, although I'm sure that's long since NLA. I'm sure they can be found though, especially used.
Thank you Beau!
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