090G basket case

[Bob95065]

I made some progress on the saw yesterday after our neighborhood winter road cleanup. Rain is hopefully coming this winter in California.

I got the starter put together and it functions as it should. I out it in the saw and it looks and works great.

I also rebuilt the carburetor ad installed it with new gaskets.

I ordered a degree wheel from Amazon and put it on the clutch side of the crankshaft. I made a pointervoutvof a peice of wire wrapped around a bolt. I put a piston stop in the spark plug hole and rotated the engine first clockwise and got the number that the stop


I turned it counter clockwise and got the number at the stop



The wheel was adjusted until i got the same number at both CW and CCW. I knew the pointer was at TDC when indicated using this method.

I set the points to break at 28 degrees which was the middle of the range per the service manual. I pulled the flywheel, made sure the wires were in their slots cast in the points plate, and installed the cover. I removed the degree wheel and torqued the nuts at either end of the crankshaft to the values listed in the SM.

I forgot to order a fuel tank cover gasket so I'm held up until it comes in. I'm not sure how I missed it but it is what it is.

I almost forgot to say I put the starter back on and with the plug out and connected to the wire I have spark. I'm really looking forward to starting this saw.

 

[atpchas]

I'm thoroughly enjoying your project. Looks like it will be a great saw when you're finished and I hope it will make the trip with you to Bothe next fall.

 

[Bob95065]

I'm thoroughly enjoying your project. Looks like it will be a great saw when you're finished and I hope it will make the trip with you to Bothe next fall.

Thanks Charlie! It has been a really fun project. The best part was meeting other AS members that were so willing to share their knowledge and skills.

I'll definitely have this saw up in Napa next year. We'll have to encourage Tyler to have some big logs ready.

As a side note I should have bought that degree wheel a long time ago. I see how it is essential for porting cylinders. I was thinking about this while using my backpack blower during road cleanup Saturday. My mind went to what performance gains I would see if I worked the ports on the blower cylinder. Anyone tried porting a Stihl blower?

 

[atpchas]

Anyone tried porting a Stihl blower?

I could swear that Brad S ported a blower, or at least seriously considered it. As I recall there were vids of blower moving a brick across driveway.

 

[Woodslasher]

I could swear that Brad S ported a blower, or at least seriously considered it. As I recall there were vids of blower moving a brick across driveway.

I know a guy who ported his Echo pole saw just for the fun of it, so anything can be ported.

 

[Bob95065]

I have a question.

I turned the engine over by hand using the starter cup. When I do that I hear compresed air leaking from the decomp valve. Is this normal for very, very low RPM? Will it seal at high RPM?

Excuse my ignorance. This is my first time working on one of these saws. The decomp isn't like anything I've seen before.

 

[atpchas]

Just in case this is new:

 

[Bob95065]

I bought the valve brand new

 

[NewToStihl]

I have a question.

I turned the engine over by hand using the starter cup. When I do that I hear compresed air leaking from the decomp valve. Is this normal for very, very low RPM? Will it seal at high RPM?

Excuse my ignorance. This is my first time working on one of these saws. The decomp isn't like anything I've seen before.

99% of those valves (based on my personal experience of literally dozens and dozens of them), new or used, seem to leak at least a bit. Not ideal, but not always entirely problematic. It’s almost always the valve itself, but I have seen them leak past the threads.
While using one had to turn the engine over use the other hand to pry up on the end of the spring steel and see if that helps (it normally does) and that will confirm it’s the valve seal. Also, if that does help, disconnect the spring steel from the valve and bend it upwards a bit & reconnect, and that will put more sealing force in the valve and often makes a big improvement.
Report back from that and we can discuss next steps if need be.

 

[Bob95065]

I went out in the garage and tried bending the arm a bit more. Same result. I can hear air escaping through the valve when I turn it over by hand.

Monday I'll order a new decomp valve and return this one as a defective unit.

The other option I thought about would be to lap the valve with grinding compound and a drill. Any thoughts on that?

 

[Bob95065]

I posted this before I saw your post. Bending the arm made a small improvement but not that much. I can tell it wouldn't pass a pressure/vacuum test.

Thanks for your post, if helps me know I'm on the right track.

 

[NewToStihl]

The other option I thought about would be to lap the valve with grinding compound and a drill. Any thoughts on that?

That is exactly what I do and was going to suggest as ‘next steps’. Although the return is a good first option - a new one should have very little leakage, if any.

 

[Bob95065]

That is exactly what I do and was going to suggest as ‘next steps’. Although the return is a good first option - a new one should have very little leakage, if any.

Thank you for the advice. The thing I'm worried about is i took the valve apart and put it in the cylinder with a screwdriver then put it back together. I'm afraid it won't come out easy unless i reverse that operation.

I could drop the poppet and fish it out through the exhaust port and make a tool for reinstalation. What do you do to install the decompression valve?

 

[NewToStihl]

Thank you for the advice. The thing I'm worried about is i took the valve apart and put it in the cylinder with a screwdriver then put it back together. I'm afraid it won't come out easy unless i reverse that operation.

I could drop the poppet and fish it out through the exhaust port and make a tool for reinstalation. What do you do to install the decompression valve?

I always pull the cylinder since it’s so easy on these saws.

 

[Bob95065]

Just in case this is new:
View attachment 944320

Thanks Charlie, I haven't seen this.

I have a replacement valve on the way

 

[Bob95065]

I stopped in the Stihl dealer to get status on the 0arts I ordered because they seem to be taking a long time. It turns out they were delivered because they have a signed receiving slip. The problem is there isn't anyone who works there by the name of the person who signed for the parts and the parts are no where to be found. They said they are trying to figure out what happened.

 

[2dogs]

Bob do you want any fir logs? I usually cut them at 9'6" (to fit it the 10' trailer). I can deliver them to you or if you have a trailer I can load them. I also can cut tanoak, or bay.

 

[2dogs]

I can't load the biggest logs (48") btw. If you want to you could mill them in place.

 

[Bob95065]

Thanks Bill. I have three big DF trees that have to come down at my house. I'll be in the same boat as you soon.

Tan oak is welcome if you have it. Thanks again and thank you for thinking of me.

 

[Bob95065]

The tank gasket came in Wednesday. I worked 17 days in a row including several 12 hour days so I wouldn't gave had time to do anything had it come in earlier anyway.

@glock37 sent me a cover gasket that was made of the wrong material and was a little small. I traced the outside of the cover on some gasket material with an engineering pencil and used the gasket to trace the inside. The gasket was cut out with an Exacto knife and a #11 blade. I have a a gasket punch that was used for the bolt holes.

I put the oil pump on

Starting to look pretty good


The pictures I didn't take were when gasket 1.0 tore and I had to make gasket 2.0. IMHO gasket 2.0 was better than 1.0 anyway.